Repair and Mod Thread

[Anonymous No.8665159]

Does anyone know where you could get a repro NTSC SNES shell? buying a junk console and I would like to replace it's gross yellow shell after I fix it up.

[Anonymous No.8665323]

I'd like to know as well. My shell is fucking disgusting but the console works perfectly.

[Anonymous No.8665339]

>>8665159
-Get a large plastic tub
-Fill with a mix of water and 40 vol clear hair developer (you can get a 32oz bottle for like 10 bucks on amazon)
-Take the shell of the SNES and fully submerge it in the liquid
-Leave in sunlight for a few days
-Rinse with water, reassemble
DO NOT use the plastic wrap and cream developer method, it'll end up patchy and awful.

[Anonymous No.8665358]

>>8665339
dont do retrobrite OP unless you basically want to turn your snes shell into brittler plastic that'll just yellow again later, i wanted to retrobrite my shit until i waited to do more research and see testimonials from people who actually updated their results long term, retrobrite is not permanent and in some cases when using harsher chemicals in products like what this guy is recommending, it bleaches or "least case scenario" makes it even more brittle.

Will also be looking around for replacement shells whenever im tired of looking at my snes's vile piss look, or considering figuring out if spray painting it is viable. Don't retrobrite, waste of time and money and resources.

[Anonymous No.8665371]

>>8665358
I was considering painting it since I mostly plan on treating like a "hobby" console. The listing said the cartridge port doesn't open as well so I was hoping that if I needed to replace it I wouldn't need to cannibalize another system for it.

[Anonymous No.8665374]

>>8665159
Just give the thing a custom paint job

[Anonymous No.8665381]

>>8665358
The hell are you talking about? I've retrobrighted a bunch of things years ago and they're all still fine. I doubt the SNES is any different. Chemically it makes zero sense for hair developer (essentially just hydrogen peroxide) to make plastic brittle.

[Anonymous No.8665390]

>>8665159
>>8665323

[Anonymous No.8665635]

>>8665358
Watching a youtube tard who can't manage to follow simple instructions isn't """research""" faggot

[Anonymous No.8665706]

>>8665381
Plastic is organic hydrocarbon polymers. Hair developer is an oxidizer. When you oxidize (burn) organic materials, they tend to get damaged. Think of the difference between wood and charcoal.

[Anonymous No.8665784]

Based chinks finally got my netdimm to me I needed for my Naomi. It stinks like a warehouse but it works. Finally time to build out the Naomi rig.

[Anonymous No.8665794]

>>8665358
Retrobrite is just bleaching.
I don't think there's any evidence to support it making plastic more brittle. Just hearsay. Severely yellowed plastic will be brittle anyway, so of course bleaching it won't magically make it stronger again.
None of the things I've retrobrited have yellowed again. It has really made some formerly piss-colored consoles pleasant to look at again.

[Anonymous No.8665965]

>>8665706
>maybe if i use words i think sound sciencey they'll think i'm a grownup
Had literally the exact opposite effect

[Anonymous No.8667408]

>>8665784
based. A full rig meaning a custom cab or what?

[Anonymous No.8667426]

>>8665159
What the fuck happened to his eyeshines, he looks hollow.
[spoilers]Anyone know where to get good AC adapter relpacements for SNES? My cable's breaking down and I think I also need to fix the port itself.[/spoiler]

[Anonymous No.8667434]

>>8667426
Well I fucked that spoiler up but yeah, any recommendations? It's a hand me down, and the port looks like the bottom one in picrel.

[Anonymous No.8667472]

>>8667434
>>8667426
OP Here. The SNES I bought has the same issue. You're gonna have to get a new "IO shield" that has the DC input integrated. You just desolder the old shield from the console and put the new one in. Seems like an easy enough fix.
https://console5.com/store/snes-super-nintendo-power-input-jack-replacement.html
or you can get an old skool or hyperkin branded one on Amazon.
As for AC power adapter you could probably just a used on on ebay or something. Maybe try the retrobit 3 in 1?
I know on the NES it was a kind of standard part and you could just get a brand new on of the same specs.

[Anonymous No.8667484]

>>8667472
Oh, that's actually great to know, thanks for the heads up! I've had that SNES sitting behind everything else for a while, about time I gave it use. Thanks OP!

[Anonymous No.8667505]

>>8667408
Currently it's just going to be a tv ready setup. Might build a cab eventually.

[Anonymous No.8668051]

>>8667505
By TV ready I mean basically a ghetto consolization. Bunch of shit mounted on a frame.

Naomi
atx supply
atx to jvs adaptor cable
Tuscon logic jvs bridge
undamned usb converter (2)
netdimm
OSSC

[Anonymous No.8668115]

>>8668051
can you use a Naomi on a supergun? that might be a cleaner setup.

[Anonymous No.8668156]

>>8665390
Lmfao that’s fucking disgusting.
Throw that directly into the trash, what a festering eyesore that is. All nasty, rough and ribbed like that.
I mean, yes it’s cool to have the ability to do that and 3D printing is a good thing, but I would never actually put a SNES board in that.

[Anonymous No.8668215]

>>8668115
Naomi is JVS so you have to use a jamma converter. Now that I have the usb converters and stuff it's cool being able to plug any usb fightstick in and run it.

[Anonymous No.8668232]

>>8668115
>>8668215
I also already have all the stuff for this setup anyway.

[Anonymous No.8668342]

>>8668156
if you have a bare snes PCB it might be an upgrade from literally nothing.

[Anonymous No.8668517]

>>8667408
That kitten knows more about a/v than most faggots in a CRT thread and the only cope it has is some good chaw.

>>8668156
But brah! It's 3D printing! 3D printing is cool. Downloading a file and clicking print is the closest a soiboi like me will ever get to making anything. And it only takes 2 days to print and 3 reels of filament that cost $20 each not including shipping of $20 each. I don't see how anyone wouldn't think this is the best solution for this or literally anything.

[Anonymous No.8668538]

>>8665358
There's an entire white paper on retrobrite the making plastic more brittle thing is a MYTH.

[Anonymous No.8668702]

Just leave the shell in the sun for a few days this spring/summer

[Anonymous No.8670617]

>>8668702
that's months away man!

[Anonymous No.8671714]

>>8665784
Wow just got my ass beat by an ethernet cable. Have had one for years that said it was a crossover cable. Even says X'Over molded into the connectors. It's not. Both ends are T568B. To do crossover one end needs to be T568A. So I've been fighting the transfer utility thinking my network settings are somehow wrong when it's the cable.

[Anonymous No.8672083]

>>8671714
You deserve to have your ass beat for being that stupid. Still, your dad should have use a belt like a normal person.

[Anonymous No.8672335]

>>8668517
I 3d print all the time. It's actually really cool. I've made all kinds of useful things, from household objects to functional car parts.
Depending on what you're printing you can use a large nozzle with spiral settings and print large objects in just a few hours. The filament is sold by kilo and honestly lasts ages. You don't need to keep buying more per print.
That said, the printed SNES looks absolutely fucking terrible. SNES printing OP had his layer height way too high, presumably to print it quickly, giving it those blotchy lines. I'd make the print finer and probably use a 0.8 nozzle. If you use AMS once you're done you can dump it in some acetone and have it totally smooth and looking like it came from the factory.

[Anonymous No.8672387]

>>8665159
castlemania sells full shell replacements, you still need the buttons and i/o

[Anonymous No.8672424]

>>8665159
I just painted mine.
Lol.

[Anonymous No.8672434]

>>8672335
wjy dont you make a couple and offer them here? maybe on different colors than stock to make it look really custom. I will buy one if the price is fair, im in Houston

[Anonymous No.8672740]

>>8672335
If your filament lasts ages you're not printing a lot. If I'm printing a lot I can easily go through a couple 1kg spools in a month on my home machines. But I actually do use them a lot. I've been designing parts for 30 years, so can usually design and print something faster than I could walk to the store and buy it. I don't mock people who 3D print cringe because I want to date them.
The only thing that makes me cringe more than a shit print job like the one I posted is a faggot who claims you just dunk your shit in acetone and it looks like it came from the factory. Such faggots have either never used acetone smoothing or have never seen an SNES. This is a 100% foolproof way to tell that someone knows so little about the subject they didn't even understand the youtube they wanted where they learned about it.

[Anonymous No.8672990]

>>8672335
>>8672740
What printers are you guys using? Currently building a Voron.

[Anonymous No.8673004]

>>8672990
Not them but I just an and Ender 3 pro and it does what I need it to do.

[Anonymous No.8673048]

>>8673004
What plastics are you printing? If I was doing shells for consoles I'd go with ABS+.

[Anonymous No.8673053]

>>8673048
PLA+
For various small parts, cases, and gun parts

[Anonymous No.8673078]

>>8673053
Not a fan of the glossy finish of PLA, you using an enclosure?

[Anonymous No.8673080]

>>8673078
Not yet. I don't print very often. I had grand plans of an enclosure in the fall but never acted on them. I basically only print when I need something.

[Anonymous No.8673092]

>>8665339
Hydrogen peroxide works too

[Anonymous No.8673151]

>>8665339
top: soul
bottom: soulless

[Anonymous No.8673292]

>>8672990
All my stuff is custom built. I started long before voron but that'd be a great place to start now.

>>8673048
If you were doing shells for consoles you should be using resin and casting. If you want to do something silly mill your shell out of aluminum. At least that's not embarrassing.

>>8673078
The only way to overcome FDM addiction is to admit that it's the problem. No amount of sanding or huffing fumes will ever fix it. Deal with it the way you would any other ugly piece of junk. Filler, bondo, and a paint job.

[Anonymous No.8673976]

>>8672990
Also got an ender 3 pro. I have an ender 3 v2 too but i prefer the pro.

[Anonymous No.8674092]

Got a gameboy with a pristine copy of mario land 2, and a dmg with missing lines for 60 bucks yesterday. Finally had a sucessful dmg screen repair, have it all torn down, cleaned, repaired, and shell is retrobrighting right now. Ordered a backlit and bivert kit. Can't wait to enjoy some gameboy games on their original screen.

[Anonymous No.8674919]

I don't know if this thread is adequate for the mod I'm trying to do, but I'll try my luck.

Recently I picked up an anbernic RG351P for GBA and older platforms, some PS1 and the like. I noticed the shoulder buttons are harder to press than the average gamepad, so I tried to look for the exact type of switch I need and it turns out it's a really tough fucker to find at low operation force (pic related). Bought some on ebay and it being a lottery, they're all harder to press and sort of sticky. They're just not suitable for shoulder buttons because of how hard that shit would be to press quickly. It's a shame because every other button on this handheld feels quite nice.

Anyways, found this dude replacing his GBA shoulder buttons here, using 2 instead of 4 pin tact switches:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3e1ukjWgUs

Wouldn't it be an issue long term unless it was glued in? I'm assuming the third pin for the type of switch I'm looking for is there for support. It's much easier for me to find appropriate 4 pin 4.5x4.5mm switches where I'd just snip two of them.

[Anonymous No.8674992]

I'm not sure if I want to try to rescue pic related or just use it for salvage.

To the anon who diagnosed the issue with my retarded MGB in a Repair thread a while back: you were right about the link port messing with P14. I looked at it the next day under better lighting and found a pencil lead jammed in the link port.

[Anonymous No.8675098]

>>8674919
Just give it a go worst case scenario they come loose and tear the pads off just get a new chink boy.

[Anonymous No.8675202]

>>8674919
First, it's not hard to find switches with any any value for you want. I'll take you at your word that it is on eBay. I'm not retarded enough to buy mine there.
The original part doesn't really have 4 "pins". It has 2 pins and 2 snap in ground/mounting terminals. These are actually part of the cover, and essential for holding it in place. The replacement used in that video isn't going to last long.
I design and build my own controllers and this is an issue I'm very familiar with. As a general rule I try to put as much of the load on the structure as possible That's less likely to break and easier to repair than the PCB. The SP design makes it pretty easy to do. The only question is whether you have the skills and tools required.

[Anonymous No.8675269]

>>8675202
I replaced switches on a 360 controller and a bunch of mice, I don't think these are any different besides the size of them (4.5x4.5 instead of 6x6mm). I really looked in many places. I looked on digikey, mouser, TME and farnell. Really the only places where I found these were actually on ebay at chink stores which are shady as shit and have a picture of a different lady per account for some random reason.

[Anonymous No.8675707]

>>8675269
Yeah, they're all basically the same. There are versions with various features, and bells and whistles, and, of course there's shit that falls apart after a few hundred clicks.
What exactly do you mean when you say "looked"? Went on their online part selector and selected some filters? You might have better luck locating a part first and then finding someone who supplies it. That's usually how I do it. It means digging through a lot of data sheets but unless you're looking for a common part from a big vendor that's just what you've got to do.
To be clear about what you're looking for, it's pic related, right?

[Anonymous No.8675743]

>>8674992
gaemboy color liek water
yeah unless you know how to reapply enig coating (warning: this involves cyanide) you've basically got a spare chips you can score off the board at best.

[Anonymous No.8675776]

>>8675707
Yeah, that's exactly it. I'm looking for something that requires low force to press because I don't know of any trick to "soften" tactile switches. Bought a bag of these for cheap from UK and they're all hard as fuck to press. I don't think it's unreasonable to get something that's similar to xbox controller shoulder microswitches. My issue is, I go to any of these websites and the closest thing I can find are these. I guess maybe I have to check the data sheets for these and see if they specify the ones I'm looking for.

[Anonymous No.8675781]

>>8675776
Fuck I forgot pic related. This is what I considered using before, but it seems like a really bad idea.

[Anonymous No.8676750]

>>8675776
What gf/N are you looking for? The ones I have are 200gf. I don't remember why I got these or where. I'll check the invoices and see if I have a datasheet. That would tell you exactly what values are available.
The force is set by the dome in the switch. In theory replacing, or even modifying this is possible. As a kid I reworked the domes on my 2600 sticks hundreds of times as they crapped out. For something this small it's probably not viable. If you want to give it a go for shits and giggles you could try flattening the dome a bit by applying too much pressure. Not an ideal solution but it does work, and if done correctly can be pretty accurate.

>>8675781
It's not as bad as you think. I use similar parts, not snap in, in my thumb sticks. The reason being that they're common parts, available from many suppliers in many variations such as forces. One client requested 600gf switches. Probably about 10x what you're looking for. It sounds like a couple people going at it with automatic paintball guns when playing a fightan game. The only thing you need for this sort of part is something to support it. There are off the shelf right angle switches with a plastic mount instead of a cover with ground terminals. You could easily print something like that provided there's someplace to anchor to in the device.

[Anonymous No.8677150]

>>8676750
Something lower, between 100 and 150gf. Basically enough not to press it accidentally really. I wouldn't have qualms about trying flattening domes (I have 10 switches I don't think I'm gonna use, so it's no biggie). But I guess it'd be better to actually buy the parts I need instead.

[Anonymous No.8677231]

>>8677150
I didn't have a datasheet but my vendor sent me one. Their part is only available in 160/180/250gf. Mine are 180 but the force meter says a little over 200, so 160's could be as high as 180. But they said other factories have as low as 100. So it's just a matter of locating and skimming through a bunch of datasheets. Google with the right terms and this won't take you long.

[Anonymous No.8677543]

>went to install xreset mod into my xstation modded ps1
>black screen, something shorted maybe
>check all the joints under microscope everything looks fine
>still black screen
>okay, it was working fine before the reset mod
>remove reset mod
>black screen
Furious.

[Anonymous No.8677547]

>>8668702
Have fun having it turn back yellow even faster

[Anonymous No.8678071]

>>8672387
>check store
>130 dollars + tip for a shell
>not even stock-looking, some ugly transparent bullshit
>mfw

Why does this happen every time. Every time I stumble upon a replacement console shell it's some gaudy transparent/fruity-colored bullshit. Is it so much to ask to just get an actual REPLACEMENT? If I wanted it to look ugly I'd just stick with my cracked yellowed console shell in the first place.

[Anonymous No.8678171]

>>8677543
>fuck up simple mod install
Literally how?
>Furious
No doubt. How much is this life lesson gonna set you back?