[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/vr/ - Retro Games

View post   
File: 101 KB, 684x629, repair vr.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6149120 No.6149120 [Reply] [Original]

I have a small problem with my Model 1 Mega Drive. I've done 1 switch mod, all is working great but after 5 minutes screen start to flicker like it could not hold V-Sync, sound also slows down. It only takes place on JP/60, EN/60 and EN/50 works as intended. I done some continuity tests and all seems fine. Any help?

>> No.6149271

>>6149120
Giving you a bump. It's been perhaps decades since I've done this but are you sure you read the schematics properly and attached the switch to the correct location? It sounds like you did and the fact that US NTSC and Europe PAL work suggests that the you haven't damaged anything.

Is the switch (only one?) faulty? Also, are you modifying a Mega Drive for the Japanese region or are you modifying one for the some other region?

It sounds like the Japanese NTSC mode is not using the correct clock rate, thus the unstable screen and slower audio.

>> No.6149391

>>6149271
Just went full mad, said fuck it and redo all the wiring with thinner 24AWG Kynar. I also electric tape the Link/COM connector where the switch is. Thought maybe its shorting/interfere with the ground of the switch. Now I'm testing for 30min now on Bare Knuckle and works great.
Thanks for your suggestions

>> No.6149430
File: 23 KB, 256x224, DKC3-AntiPiracy.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6149430

How do I fix pic related? The obvious things are already tested, but no dice. What's the next step? Can I test the SRAM in situ with a lolduino?

>> No.6149880

>>6149430
>obvious things
like what? you don't mention shit about your setup and what you did.

>> No.6150191

>>6149120
I have a problem with my SNES controller, the L and R buttons don't always work properly, like you hold them, but they don't register, I tried cleaning the contacts and the rubber pads with alcohol but it didn't work

>> No.6150210

>>6150191
I have this exact problem with my second SNES controller. The shoulder buttons just flat-out don't work and I've tried cleaning and everything.
Also my NES's sound doesn't work using AV out but works fine on RF though. I've tried multiple cables only to get the same result.

>> No.6151361

>>6149880
Why would I? The cart is clean and tested in multiple unmodded consoles.

>> No.6151467

>>6151361
Are contacts and/or battery good?

>> No.6151503

>>6151467
Yes.

>> No.6153027
File: 2.23 MB, 3968x2976, 1568142820798.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6153027

Recently I opened up my Saturn for cleaning and found the RF Shield to have various rust spots and other gunk. What's the best way to clean this thing?

>> No.6153223

>>6153027
You need to use an acid to get rid of the rust (vinegar or lemon juice will do). After getting rid of as much of the rush a possible, clean the shield and dry thoroughly. Then you need to coat the metal in something that will protect it from further corrosion. You can use Frog Lube (a product for cleaning and lubricating guns) or you can maybe put a thin, clear plastic sticker on the bare metal.

>> No.6153224

>>6153027
acid

>> No.6153272

>>6153223
nice, not that anon but similar issues with heat syncs on my PS2 slim, I’ll give that a go.

>> No.6153304
File: 878 KB, 755x1960, 20200123_220509.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6153304

Are these blue things multilayer ceramic capacitors?

>> No.6153457

>>6153304
They are capacitors but I'm not sure what they're made of.

>> No.6154193

>>6153223
>Frog Lube (a product for cleaning and lubricating guns)
apex kek

>> No.6155562

>>6153223
Just got back from trying this, the black dots are still present but most of the actual rust has gone away. I'm not sure what to do about the former, but thanks anyway

>> No.6155813

>>6153223
>You can use Frog Lube (a product for cleaning and lubricating guns)
I will not do this because guns are evil.

>> No.6155863
File: 1.98 MB, 3968x2976, 1565541804362.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6155863

Does anyone have any insight on what this pin should look like? The disc tray isn't opening and I assume it might be because the pin isn't in the right position

>> No.6155875

>>6155863
Might help to know what system you're working on

Looks like a PS1 lid though right?

>> No.6155881

>>6155863
Looking at it now I think you have it on backwards. that hook should go though one of those holes on the black thing there and the longer part should slide into a slit on the lid.

>> No.6155890

>>6155875
Sega Saturn
>>6155881
It'll be strange if that was the case, since it actually worked fine up until now

>> No.6156930
File: 2.16 MB, 3968x2976, 1556281146745.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6156930

Bump
Just for clarification, the door isn't jammed and actually opens if I hold the lid upside down. The gears just don't push the tray upwards due to the pin being messed up

>> No.6157293

>>6156930
It's a spring. It's highly unlikely you broke anything so you have to figure out how to properly put the spring into the place where it belongs. The part of the spring that sticks out (the L-shaped part of it) must catch onto a notch or something. You should be able to find YouTube videos of people disassembling their Saturns. Pay close attention to what they do with the spring assembly and you should be able to figure out how to install your spring such that the door pops open when you press the Open button.

>> No.6157378

>>6155562
There's nothing you can do about the black dots. They are there because the chrome plating was somehow removed and the underlying steel rusted. The removal of the rust is to make sure that it doesn't spread and destroy the entire shield. You need to coat the metal shield in something, especially the black spots which are bare metal, to prevent further oxidation (rusting). I've suggested Frog Lube or an adhesive but something else you can use is paint or clear nail polish remover. You only need a very thin coat and, if you want, you only need to apply it to the black spots. The part of the shield that are still shiny chrome-colored are not going to rust in all likelihood unless you use the machine in a very humid environment.

>> No.6157382

>>6155813
Whatever. If thugs come for you, you'll wish you had a firearm. The bad guys don't care whether their weapons are "evil" or not. They're not going to be gentlemen about robbing or coercing you.

>> No.6157397

>>6157378
One other product I forgot you can use to coat the shield. Use car wax/polish. I suspect Rain-X, the stuff you use to give your windshield with a water resistant coating, will also do a reasonably good job of protecting the metal from humidity.

>> No.6157702

>>6149430
This only ever happened to me once. It’s most likely a contact issue, give them a thorough clean. If that fails open the cart up and see if any of the connections from the pins are damaged or broken.

>> No.6157939
File: 1.53 MB, 3968x2976, probably.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
6157939

>>6155863
Looking at wear and general shaping, this is what springs to mind.
It probably clips onto where I marked the blue line.

I haven't worked on a saturn before, so I'm not sure where the other side goes, but it should be fairly obvious.

>> No.6157980

>>6149120
>It only takes place on JP/60, EN/60 and EN/50 works as intended.

60hz modded pal megadrives output some bullshit vsync signal, like 58Hz or so. Get a Japanese unit, they cost potatoes.

>> No.6158141

>>6155863
You have it upside down.

>> No.6158187

>>6157939
Yes, that's where it goes. The other end goes in the only place it could go based on how springs work.

>>6158141
No. That's an Australian version Saturn.