Repair/Mod General - Game Tech Wiki

[Anonymous No.4207176]

Bring your repair/mod discussions and technical questions here. What are you working on?

Don't forget to add your knowledge to the wiki!
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Many common problems can be remedied by cleaning the console, games, or controllers. Check out the cleaning guide before trying anything too drastic:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

Previous thread >>4164234

[Anonymous No.4207405]

I am interested in repairing some rechargeable battery packs that I got for original systems. I have a PSOne third-party rechargeable battery (which goes with the screen and fits underneath the system) and I also have a Nomad battery pack (Sega original rechargeable, MK-6102, listing NiMH cells inside on the back label).

Neither one holds a charge, but I know people have replaced the cells inside before on rechargeables like these and gotten them to work again. As far as I know, it involves getting in there, removing the old packs, and inserting new packs in their place, making sure to match the voltage closely (though I'm not 100% on how that works).

I'm already planning to do some solder practice on some cheap junk electronics (since I'm sure that will be required at some point in this), but I want to make sure I have the theory down right for the process I want to do. Is replacing the cells on a rechargeable battery feasible in this way? And if so, how do I really know that I've gotten the 'right' battery? The nomad is a confusing one for me in that regard, the power supply is 10V 0.85A, while the 6-pack of AA batteries is 9 volts (by merit of the battery voltage) but then I also learned that not only do alkaline batteries drop off from 1.5 to lower voltages as they run, but rechargeable NiMH AAs run at 1.2V the whole length of the charge. And then I read that electronics seem to run at a range of voltages along the length of the battery output, and yadda yadda yadda, some more details in there, but in general it sounds like voltage is really variable, so how do I really know what is correct or incorrect?

If it involves telling me to go research electronics then that's fine, but some direction would really be appreciated as I'm not sure what part of the field to study for this info.

[Anonymous No.4208205]

>>4207405
Easiest thing for you is to just replace the batteries with ones that are the same voltage and be done with it. You can learn the irrelevant but related stuff later.

[Anonymous No.4208857]

I recently bought and fixed a model 2 genesis and the only issue I found was there were wires connecting directly from the dc to what is labeled "CF1"
Removing the wires and resoldering the dc port fixed it entirely and there were no issues. I just want to know the purpose of why they did this.

[Anonymous No.4208889]

>>4208857
Looks like there was a bad connection between the barrel plug and the PCB and rather than fix it like you did they just wired directly from the plug to the filter.

[Anonymous No.4209108]

>>4208857
>>4208889
I'd second this. The real source of your issue was the bad solder connection. The added wires were probably FCC bullshit. THe FCC made companies do lots of stupid meaningless shit just to keep kids safe. Like those metal things you were suppose to put int he model 1 genesis cart port for the 32X. They didn't do a damn thing but some egghead discovered if a child was using the 32X on a model 1 genesis & a thunderbolt struck a near by telephone pole that child may experience discomfort unless extra fucking grounding was added to the device,

[Anonymous No.4209174]

>>4209108
I feel like I've gotten a corrupted chip on the board, like a pin is lifted or something on a genisis cart any way to fix it

[Anonymous No.4209492]

>>4209108
Odds are the wires were done by some tard trying to fix the broken solder joint.

>>4209174
Talk to a professional about why you feel this way. lol. Seriously. What makes you feel this way?

[Anonymous No.4211089]

So I want to get the nes rgb kit to have svideo on my nes
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html
http://etim.net.au/nesrgb/

Would this place shit to canada?

[Anonymous No.4211128]

Hey all,
What is a fair price for a "broken" Snes Mini?
Cosmetically fine, light comes on but doesnt boot the game.

[Anonymous No.4211182]

>>4211128
$5 maybe $10 because you got a shell & maybe AC port & thats it. If it turns on but doesn't boot a game it's probably a dead PPU which cannot be fixed without a donor SNES

[Anonymous No.4212016]

So I spent yesterday trying to write an MM3 hex to a chip in order to mod my PS1(sphc 1001). I got the 12F629 hex from eurasia.nu, burnt it, and installed it but it wouldn't boot backups at all. I ended up burning 3 more of this hex and resoldering my entire install to make sure the problem wasn't there (I had checked my install with a continuity tester at this point and everything looked good) but still the chip wouldn't book backups.

Eventually a friend of mine told me to try a different hex (Found here http://www.maxconsole.com/threads/ps-one-12f629-modchip-coding.24677/)) and it worked first try.

Does anybody know what went wrong here? Has anybody been able to use the Eurasia hex with success before? I'm just confused as to why my first 3 chips didn't work even though I used the same process for those as the one that didn't work.

[Anonymous No.4212136]

>>4212016
I presume you used the correct hex for your console region?

[Anonymous No.4212152]

>>4212136

Yeah, "MM3usa12f629.hex" was the file I used on my US console with a 12f629 pic.

[Anonymous No.4212869]

>>4212152
I had the same problem a year or so ago. The hex on eurasia.nu didn't work for me but some other that I found by googling worked fine. It might actually have been the same one that you linked to, though I can't remember for sure. It was my first time using a PIC programmer, so I figured I was just doing something wrong at the time.

[Anonymous No.4212998]

Anyway to clean up controller cords that have been yellowed? Like the wii classic controller for example

[Anonymous No.4213173]

>>4212869
>>4212152
Sounds like they are supplying a bad hex file and either aren't aware of it or just don't care.

>>4212998
If the yellowing is caused by grime, wash it off. If it's caused by exposure to the sun, no. That's permanent damage. That's why the majority of valuables come with a warning to keep them out of sunlight. I'll let another anon explain the hydrogen peroxide/Retrobrite thing and why it doesn't really do much.

[Anonymous No.4213574]

Hello, i have the following problem: i was given a SFC because it could only be used with RF because the AV output didnt work. I opened and it was leaking, so i cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol and finally got it working. And it worked perfectly for 5 minutes, but then, the image came out all messed up. I opened it again and find out that the PCB are damaged. I made some tests using a tester and used some conductive tape and the image improved a lot, but its not perfect, so i need some conductive ink to solve the problem. But i cant find any where i live. So, i have seen some tutorials on the internet to make your own, can they be trusted? does anyone here have any good tutorial? thanks.

[Anonymous No.4213647]

>>4213574
graphite is conductive if you can find a way to use that.

[Anonymous No.4214472]

Is is safe to use power cord splitters for multiple consoles as long as only one is powered on at a time? I wanted to tidy up all my power bricks.

[Anonymous No.4214486]

>>4214472

yes, because what splitters do is split the current and not the voltage. Since consoles use so little current to work, you can add as many as you want.

[Anonymous No.4214745]

>>4214486
Awesome, thanks.

Would be nice if someone produced adapters for consoles that don't take standard plugs too.

[Anonymous No.4215628]

>>4214745
Which console with non-standard plugs does no one produce adapters for?

[Anonymous No.4215673]

Can I replace a SNES reset switch? I need a new black box thing because I had to gut it to stop the black screen.

[Anonymous No.4215732]

I asked on here a while back if it was possible to change the SNES SuperCIC code to assign the red LED to the 'Áuto' mode (instead of its default 60Hz mode). The answer I got here was yes.

I'm now wondering if anyone has any specific knowledge of what code would need to be changed to achieve this. Anyone?

[Anonymous No.4215782]

>>4215732
From quickly looking at the source code of the SCIC Lock you can read that byte 0x50 stores the current LED state in bit 4 and 5.

0x50 power LED state (no bits except 4 and 5 must be set!!)

and 0x56 seems to be used as a dynamic register that is used to calculate the new correct byte value before it is then written into 0x50

That piece of code would be at line 933

[Anonymous No.4215790]

>>4215782
are you referring to this?
https://github.com/borti4938/Switchless-Mods/blob/master/SNES/CICs/lock/supercic-lock.asm

[Anonymous No.4215839]

>>4215790
Yeah that's Thema source code.
What else should i be referring to.

[Anonymous No.4216732]

Another Atari mod in the books. I got this 7800 for $25 with the original power supply (that's a big fucking thing if you don't know 7800's!) but it didn't work.

Found a cold solder joint on one of the transistors, hit it with some solder, that was all it was!

Did the AV mod, threw in some joysticks and some carts, and now it's on eGay.

This is probably the 10th or so Atari that I've modded now, both 2600 and 7800. Shit is so fucking cheap and easy, there's zero reason to not do it to yours.

[Anonymous No.4218773]

Can I use a generic AC adapter on a NES as long as its the necessary volts?

[SUNDAY !SUNDAYwqAw No.4218784]

>>4218773
Watch out with that, because an NES is expecting 9VAC and NOT, 9VDC. Nearly all universal adapters on the market are DC.

But, yes, so long as it's the correct voltage and amperage, it'll be fine. The correct amperage is 1300mA, so on the large-ish size.

[Anonymous No.4218792]

>>4218773
Watch out with that, because an NES is expecting 9VAC and NOT, 9VDC. Nearly all universal adapters on the market are DC.

But, yes, so long as it's the correct voltage and amperage, it'll be fine. The correct amperage is 1300mA, so on the large-ish size.

[Anonymous No.4219415]

>>4218792
OMG OMG OMG I THINK I KNOW SOMETHING!!!11!1!!
The important parts of an NES are expecting 5vdc champ and will use as many mA as they need.

[Anonymous No.4219435]

>>4218792
There's no need to worry about polarity or AC vs DC with the NES. The NES expects AC, no matter what you give it the bridge rectifier will re-orient the current to the correct polarity.

9-11V, 850mA or greater, and the plug needs to fit. That's all the NES needs