Repair/Mod General - Game Tech Wik

[Anonymous No.3964369]

Bring your repair/mod discussions and technical questions here. What are you working on?

Don't forget to add your knowledge to the wiki!
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Many common problems can be remedied by cleaning the console, games, or controllers. Check out the cleaning guide before trying anything too drastic:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

[Anonymous No.3964375]

I was looking at prices on Super Gameboy 2 units and they've gone up about $15 in the last year or so. I'm thinking modding an American Super Game Boy for the correct clock speed and a link port would be a better option, but are there any good instructions anywhere for it? Where can I source a link cable port from?

[Anonymous No.3964395]

Fag from week or two whose MD gone bad when testing switchmod. Well new power brick came and shit still does not boot. Funny thing is it also fucked up my SNES, new power brick is coming soon.
So what is the next step for MD? DC in? Power regulators? And why for the love of god there is no fuse in this thing? Also still can't find my multimeter.

[Anonymous No.3964430]

>>3964395
What exactly happens? Does it turn on at all? Power LED?
Find your fucking multimeter and check if the console even gets the needed 5V anymore or not.
If not you've probably killed the 7805's and should replace them. If that doesn't help you might've killed something important.
What did you even do? I don't remember you ever stating what exactly happened. Did you short it out?

[Anonymous No.3964462]

>>3964430
About the LED, I cut it off, I don't like when my console flashes, specially at night-time.
Buying new multimeter is a must, I know that. 7805 are cheap, so no problem if they are fuck'd.
After installing three wires to a switch and playing Streets of rage for 5 minutes, power gone off. It literally does not give any signs of life. that AV Din is also acting funny. Solder joints are ok but I must put some weight on scart cable to get good picture or else no picture or green or purple screen for me.

[Anonymous No.3964467]

>>3964430
also any idea why is there two of these 7805's?
It needs two separate 5V (if I remember correctly) for something?

[Anonymous No.3964475]

>>3964462
Sounds pretty much fucked all round m8.

Chalk this one up to experience, sling it in the bin and do the world's simplest region mod properly next time.

[Anonymous No.3964487]

I have a really weird and difficult issue with Star Fox 64.

Since the day i got it i noticed the music is really low, i can only hear it if i turn the volume on the TV way up.

Sou d fx sound just fine tho, only the music is low, any ideas?

I sure of this because i borrowed a copy from a friend and in his i can hear the intro music playing fine, on mine its reallly fucking low.

[Anonymous No.3964490]

>>3964462
Well the LED would have been a sign to go by whether the system gets power or not so yeah...
The system shouldn't have run at all if something was already shorting when you tested so either you cut wires too long and they slipped somewhere they shouldn't have or something completely different fucked up.
You should hope it's only the 7805's because those are a piece of cake to replace. If some of the chips got zapped your best bet would be to check which ones overheat but if it's one of the SEGA chips you might be better off just getting a new one altogether.
>>3964467
It has two 7805's because the system isn't really the most power effective machine in the world.

[Anonymous No.3965135]

>>3964487
Almost sounds like a cap issue with the N64.

Do other games have this issue?

[Anonymous No.3966385]

>>3965135
>do other games have this issue?

No, tried the cart i borrowed on the same console.

[Anonymous No.3966595]

>>3964487
Switch the audio to Stereo or Mono, instead of surrond.

[Anonymous No.3966961]

>>3966595
do you mean in the game options? because the cart i borrowed sounds just fine in the same TV and same console.

[Anonymous No.3967908]

>>3964375
A busted gameboy. They are also very easy make. Also, you don't need one. You can use whatever connector you want so long as you can find or make a link cable that will work with it. For example, you could use a GBA link port which is very easy to find.

[Anonymous No.3968537]

>>3967908
I was looking eBay and GBA and GBC link ports are pretty cheap.

[Anonymous No.3969985]

Zelda LTTP cart seemed to have corrosion on the PCB. I desoldered some parts to try to clean it up, but the capacitor leg came right off when I did so.

Basically, I figure I should replace the cap & resistors. I'm pretty new to this stuff, so I figured I'd post what I believe the parts are, in case anyone else knows better.

>1x capacitor (6.3V, 22uF)
>3x resistor (182Ω, 1%)
>1x resistor (1000Ω, 5%)
>1x resistor (994Ω, 1%)

I'm guessing I'm wrong on that last measurement, since i can't find one with that resistance. I assume another 1000Ω would be fine if that measurement were correct.

[Anonymous No.3970082]

>>3969985
im now thinking im retarded and there's only one resistor. i hadn't yet seen capacitors that looked like that.

[Anonymous No.3970184]

>>3969985
if you have the regional resistor you can look up the value via the bands on the side. Can be kinda tricky but if you take a picture I'm sure some one can ID it here.

[Anonymous No.3970217]

>>3970184
I'm pretty confident on C1 being (6.3V, 22uF) and R1 being (1000Ω, 5%). It's the other ones that confused me, but those I can probably leave as-is. Unfortunately, my local radioshack finally closed last month.

[Anonymous No.3970381]

>>3964487
>>3965135
>>3966385

Good news, just for everyone that ever has the same problems as my Star Fox 64 copy.

That comment about being probably a capacitor on the N64 made me think that maybe the problem was actually a capacitor, but not on my console since the copy i borrowed worked just fine, but in the cart itself, so i opened it up, and looked at the PCB, then i opened up a bunch of my shitty games until i found one with the same board revision, game was a racing game called GT64, so i just took the 5 little resistances from it, and put them onto the Star Fox cart and now its working fine, music is now at the correct volume level.

[Anonymous No.3970386]

>>3969985
>I figure I should replace the cap & resistors
Maybe the cap, but nothing is going to go wrong by using the old resistors.

[Anonymous No.3970479]

I changed the screen on my GBC and was diligent about no dust or anything getting in while doing it, but some got in anyway. I bought another one to try again, but I'd like to know if there's any way to avoid messing up this time before I do it.

[Anonymous No.3971686]

>>3966385
What?

[Anonymous No.3971983]

I have a Pokemon Blue cart that refuses to let me start a New Game. When I try, before the text pops up with oak, Pokemon cries play repeatedly and I can't proceed any further. I tried cleaning the contacts and removing the battery in case anything in the game RAM was causing this, but that didn't work. Anyone have any idea what I can do to get this cart working?

[Anonymous No.3972432]

>>3971983
Post a picture of the chips. I've had game boy games bug out before because of a dry solder joint.

[Anonymous No.3972449]

What's the best way to clean the outside of a system after repair?

Would mild hand soap and water suffice? Don't want to risk damaging or discoloring any plastic if I can help it.

[Anonymous No.3972458]

>>3972449
That usually works. Keep in mind deep grime is going to need to be scrubbed out.

[Anonymous No.3972465]

>>3972458
Sounds good. I think an old tooth brush would do the trick for those tougher spots. Thank you, anon. It's amazing how dirty a Dreamcast and SNES can be.

[Anonymous No.3972475]

>>3972432
Here's the board.

[Anonymous No.3972492]

>>3972475
Might try re-flowing the ROM chip on the top there to make sure. Put flux on first before applying heat. And undersold those tabs. Not only is it bad looking you could cause some sort of short if they bend wrong.

>>3972465
No problem. A sponge can help, or lightly go over it with a magic eraser.

[Anonymous No.3972516]

>>3972492
Got it working, thanks a lot. Surprised every source I found with google just said "lol you're screwed".

[Anonymous No.3972540]

>>3972516
Usually you are because most GB games that act up like that are worse off. Luckily it was just a loose joint.

[Anonymous No.3972838]

psp sometimes can not detect the battery what happens? how to fix it?
the problem is not on the battery because i have a new battery

[Anonymous No.3973215]

I've got a non working Sega CDX, and by not working I mean that it won't even turn on.

While opening it I noticed a few odd things (this is the first time I ever open a sega cdx tho).

First of all, there were two cables soldered from the motherboard to the disc board, not sure what these are for.

Second, and I think this is the most important, there seems to be a piece of the power pcb completely removed by force from it, not sure what piece it is supposed to be.

Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/dM9lV

I also suspect the power suply is not working, so I'm trying with the batteries.

In any case, I just want to know what can I do to make this thing run again, I want to at least play cartridges in this thing.

[Anonymous No.3973876]

Is there any way to restore a SNES to it's normal colour, or is that gnarly yellowing stain permanent?

[Anonymous No.3973945]

>>3973876
http://www.retrofixes.com/2013/10/how-to-clean-whiten-yellowed-plastics.html

[Anonymous No.3974018]

>>3973876
You can retrobrite, but it makes the plastic brittle, it's better to leave them yellow

[Anonymous No.3974446]

>>3973215
at least I want to know what piece should be here

[Anonymous No.3974481]

>>3974446
http://www.greatlakesvista.com/download/mods/CDX_LPCB_BOTTOM_E.jpg

Looks like the retard who had it before you broke off the voltage regulator

[Anonymous No.3974521]

>>3974481
Damn, do you know the name or value so I can try to find a replacement?

[Anonymous No.3974550]

>>3974521
Sorry but I don't own a CDX nor could I find any higher res images of the bottom of the power PCB.
Your best bet would probably be to find someone who owns one and ask them if they could make a higher res photo.
Maybe also ask them to check with a multimeter what voltage the regulator puts out just to make sure.

[Anonymous No.3975076]

So brother found this at a yard sale for $.25 and with a new battery and some cleaning it surprisingly works. However there's a about 5 lines of pixels that are dead. Is there any way someone might fix this. I would love to get it fixed up.

[Anonymous No.3977881]

Not exactly sure where to post this so here goes. I'm playing House of The Dead 2 in Demul using Naomi and when you hit F11 it's supposed to make a crosshair show up, but for me it's just a plain cursor. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3978543]

any one have recommendations for replacement NES controller contact pads? They're everywhere but I have no idea on quality.

[Anonymous No.3978661]

I have a problem with my Saturn, for some reason everytime I try to turn it on, it makes this buzzing noise, on a HDTV I can't see anything but on a CRT all I get to see is pic related pulsating. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3978672]

>>3975076
On a game boy you can fix dead pixels with a soldering iron, if it's the same type of screen that might work.

[Anonymous No.3980748]

bump

[Anonymous No.3980863]

Sup guys. I got recently a NES controller, and noticed that couple of the screws holding it together are somewhat stripped(I'd guess someone used too small Philips head on it before). I was wondering could I replace the machined screws in there with self-tapping screws of the same size(because they're all I have at hand right now), or do I need to go shopping if I want to be able to open and close the controller in the future?

[Anonymous No.3981003]

So I dug out my old TV/DVD combo to play my SNES on a CRT, and when I connect it via composite it displays in black and white, I don't think it a problem with my SNES as it plays in clour fine on my HDTV. I don't have the romote for the TV anymore.

Can anyone offer any solutions?

[Anonymous No.3981139]

I have a Snes that outputs no audio at all, i tested with both composite and RF cables and still no audio.

Found a couple videeos of people having the same issue and they said they solve it by bridging 2 pins on the audio chip, does anyone know about this? how it works? is there any risk for this mod to damage the console?

It is NOT the 1st gen Snes with the big removable sound module.

[Anonymous No.3982424]

>>3981139
try replacing the capacitors first

You can see a list of capacitors you need dependin on the model.

https://console5.com/wiki/SNES

[Anonymous No.3982472]

>>3982424
>eplacing the capacitors first
yeah thanks, ill do that first but, just cutrious about that bridging thing, i didnt know that was an actual thing to do to restore sound.

Do you know how that works? cant find anything on the Googles. guy says he used a wire to brigde the sound chip from pin 7 to pin 12.

[Anonymous No.3982525]

probably a dumb question, but if i mod my pal snes for 60hz, can i then play my pal games at 60hz or would i still need ntsc games?

I have a pal yoshi's island which i hoped would complement a SD2SNES

[Anonymous No.3983662]

>>3982472
after a close inspection, i see the NEC chip looks damaged, is there a way to test if this chip is working fine? or at least testing for cintinuity and luckily is only a cold solder point i can fix easily?

[Anonymous No.3983685]

>>3983662
Nah, it just looks like the legs got corroded by cap leakage.
Clean the board and those chip legs off, replace the caps, reflow the pins on the chip for good measure and check for continuity between the leg and where the traces from the leg go to.
If one isn't connected anymore properly, bridge with a jumper wire.

[Anonymous No.3983687]

>>3983662
>>3983685
By the way, no audio is actually a known symptom for no sound on the SNES.
Just saying and the fact that your image clearly shows cap leakage is proof of that.

[Anonymous No.3983708]

>>3983687
>no audio is actually a known symptom for no sound on the SNES

No shit Sherlock..

Anyways, i just did a quick continuity test on teh capacitors, and 3 of them are bridged, i assume this means those 3 are busted and need replacement? il take a pic of the 3 and maybe you guys can helpme with the correct volatges and MUf so i can get new ones later today, and NO i dont wanna order them online, i want to do it today if possible.

[Anonymous No.3983714]

>>3983708
>No shit Sherlock..
I could say the same to your question about shorted caps...

[Anonymous No.3983747]

>>3983714
I dont know shit about electronic compnetnts, im only good at soldering as weird as that sounds, im learning just now.

But theres no need to be upset anon, anyways... these are the 3 shorted caps, i have no idea what voltage they are... any help appreciated.

[Anonymous No.3983751]

>>3983747
fuck , nevermind, just found the list on the link some anon posted above.

https://console5.com/wiki/SNES#SNS-CPU-GPM-01_.281992.29

ill try to get new ones later and post result.

[Anonymous No.3983752]

>>3983747
Do yourself a favor and just check here
https://console5.com/wiki/SNES#NTSC_Capacitor_Lists

[Anonymous No.3983754]

>>3983751
>>3983752
Nevermind, I guess.

[Anonymous No.3983770]

My Twin Famicom seems to have some issues when it comes to normal, basic famicom carts.
Most of the times, it won't even recognise them; all i get is an awful grey screen and it pisses me off like, a lot.
To actually play one cart, i usually have to wobble it back and forth or push it a bit upwards; sometimes it loads correctly at the first try and some other times it gives me a bunch of garbled data and text.
This is a picture of the pins: experts of /vr/, do you think there's something wrong with them?

(And yeah, before you ask, i already cleaned them)

[Anonymous No.3983782]

>>3983770
They look fine to me.
One thing I can say is that in a highly unlikely case you might have a cartridge connector with one, or several broken solder joints which may sometimes still make a connection and sometimes not.
As I said it's highly unlikely but it's often not very visible to the eye but it definitely won't hurt it if you try reflowing the cartridge connector pins.
I can only guess something like that on through hole stuff only happens by applying stupid force on the thing but I had that on the controller connector pins of a console once and reflowing fixed it.

[Anonymous No.3983785]

>>3983770
Pins in the picture look allright, might be the cartridge slot itself that's acting up(or some pin not in the picture). Have you opened it yet to check that?

[Anonymous No.3983813]

>>3983785
Yeah, i remember opening the console a few months ago because of this problem here; as i already said, im not an expert but i didn't saw anything out of place.
I even took the screws out and put them in again (in the cartridge slot area) just to make sure the problem wasn't caused by any wobbling internal parts.
The weird thing is, i managed to make it work almost flawlessy for like, 3 weeks, by using only 3 cartridges; as soon as i used another cartridge, it went back to having this kind of problem.
The weirdest thing about this though, is the fact that in order to use one cartridge (Megami Tensei, which has a different structure, dunno if that's relevant) i HAVE to barely push only the tip inside the pins, otherwise it won't load no matter what.
Also, pushing the cartridges down sometimes feels..rusty, despite the fact that the conditions on both the inside and the cartridges i have are like untouched.

[Anonymous No.3984354]

>>3978661
pls help

[Anonymous No.3984362]

>>3983770
Could be a broken solder joint on the underside that isn't making connection.

[Anonymous No.3984389]

im replacing the outer screen on my gameboy advance. I know thats not really a major repair and it probably only takes 2-3 minutes, but I found my old Gameboy advance and I've never done this before.

If this goes well my first real project will be to replace the battery and housing on my SP.

I honestly think I'll fuck it all up because it all looks really hard but it looks like its fun and the end result is dope.

[Anonymous No.3984701]

Everyone should have both of these for cleaning off marker pen on their games.

For cartridges use googone. If you use alcohol first it may not work and after that even googone won't work.

For disks use alchohol. If you use googone first it may not work and after that even alchohol won't work.

Googone will also remove stickers and sticker residue from carts and discs.

Alcohol will clean the contacts of carts and cartslots. It can also wet a rag and be used to clean the grime, dirt, and discoloration of consoles you bought from dirty people.

Do not use alcohol on the label stickers of carts as it will rub away the ink on them.

Use 90% alchohol as 70% alcohol has water and other adulterants that won't evaporate.

Check the alcohol label to make sure they didn't add acetone, as it damages (fogging on bottom side) CDs and leaves a residue on cartridges and connectors, over time this builds up and causes problems.

Do not use Windex/Ammonia based cleaning products as they leave a massive residue inside machines that is difficult to completely remove from sockets and cartridge connectors, and can after a while cause a short or arching.

[Anonymous No.3984714]

>>3984701

what about for DS games? I bought some off a friend that have initials on them.

I mean their not disks but their only kind of cartridges right?

[Anonymous No.3984728]

>>3984701
Googone usually works for me but I had copies of Duck Hunt and Contra that were being extremely stubborn. No matter how hard I scrubbed with the Q-tips and paper towels the writing was still in there.

I finally was at my wits' end so I broke out the magic eraser and used it wet. It did the trick just fine. Only problem with magic eraser is that it makes plastic look dull where you rubbed it, but you can easily fix that with some pledge on a paper towel.

Seriously, you NEED a magic eraser. It's perfect for getting rid of discolored scuff marks and anything else that won't come off with conventional cleaning methods, like white marks on black plastic and black marks on white or gray plastic. Just don't use it on logos and other silk-screened print.

[Anonymous No.3984734]

>>3984714
If the marker is on the plastic back and not the label it should work exactly the same as a cartridge.

If the writing is on the label it might be a bit trickier. You may give the goo-gone a try since Nintendo's labels have a plastic film on them, but avoid getting the goo-gone on the edge of the label because it might soak into the paper and cause discoloration, and/or make the adhesive loosen up. I would play it extra save and put masking tape around the edges of the label just to make sure no goo-gone touches them.

[Anonymous No.3984746]

>>3982525
bump

[Anonymous No.3984750]

>>3984728

I heard magic eraser burns stuff chemically. Probably not games obviously but I'd be careful with that.

>>3984734

the non sticker parts. Where could I pick this up?

[Anonymous No.3984760]

Dammit... im this guy >>3983747


And i just finished replacing all caps, all of them same uf values and two of them slighlty higher voltage rate but thats not big deal.

Anyways, i just tested the machine again after replacing them, and still... no fucking sound, i can only hear a BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ but nothing else.

Is there any way of getting audio directly from the audio chip? i wouldnt mind soldering some RCA jacks just for audio.

[Anonymous No.3984770]

>>3984389
The battery housing? That's meant to be opened and replaced.

Just be sure to get the old glue off before applying the new screen.

[Anonymous No.3984776]

>>3984770

>The battery housing

I mean the housing of the entire system and then getting a new battery. New battery first as my current system its sensitive (can turn off if you smack the back or fidget with it and has trouble turning on) and I wanna see what the issue is.

>the old glue off

the old glue? I was just following this tutorial. Is there any steps this guys missing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms-RFjjDKao

[Anonymous No.3984786]

Will scrubbing my consoles with lysol/clorox wipes fuck up the plastic in any way?

[Anonymous No.3984787]

>>3984776
Yeah, that guy just pops it on without removing the old glue. You're going to get an uneven application of the new cover. Also he doesn't even use any air to remove any dust he might have exposed the screen to.

[Anonymous No.3984829]

>>3984787

I'm completely new but I'm looking to get into this stuff.

what should I use to remove glue and dust?

[Anonymous No.3984840]

>>3984829
Well, caned air the type you get at staples. That is good for removing dust before applying the new screen.

As far as removing the glue, you might try your nails. Without taking it fully apart, you risk scratching the actual LCD screen if you try a tool.

[Anonymous No.3984848]

>>3984840

>All these people are using box cutters to remove the lense

I'll just do that with my finger nails too if that works

>remove screen lens with finger nails
>remove glue with finger nails
>dust with computer duster
>apply new lens carefully

4 steps seems simple enough. I hope at least.

[Anonymous No.3984850]

>>3984848
That's fine so long as you're not stabbing down. You just need to get under the plastic.

[Anonymous No.3984860]

>>3984850

It sounds like it should be simple but it does make me somewhat nervous. I really wanna get into the hobby of tinkering with videogame hardware though. Seems sick.

We should make a pastebin with guides and such.

[Anonymous No.3985004]

>>3984750
Most hardware stores and grocery stores should carry Goo Gone.

[Anonymous No.3985010]

>>3984786
Don't use any liquid cleaners containing bleach. Bleach will cause discoloration. I find that Windex is the perfect stuff for spot cleaning just about anything.

[Anonymous No.3985204]

>>3984760

Ok, ive been reading afew data sheets and on this link
https://console5.com/wiki/UPD6376

data sheet downlaod is here
https://console5.com/techwiki/images/1/1e/UPD6376GS.pdf

do you guys have any idea if i could just connect an RCA plug on the output pins and get audio?

[Anonymous No.3985209]

Not really retro, but I feel inclined to ask since it's my go-to portable emulation device:
My PSP has a battery and a shoulder button problem. The battery refuses to charge unless inserted while the console is on, where on it will be recognized and the charge light and bar come up, but from system settings the charge will remain at 0% and the system will shut down if unplugged. The left shoulder button has force feedback, but doesn't register. I find both of these very odd since happened simply over time. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Anonymous No.3986043]

my genesis model 2 is outputting this buzzing sound. I'm using RF cables, is it the culprit?

[Anonymous No.3986045]

>>3985209
You gotta replace the battery, bro. Your shoulder button is probably dirty, have you cleaned it? Also what model is it?

[Anonymous No.3986135]

>>3986045
>You gotta replace the battery, bro
This concerns me the most. This is the third battery pack I've had a similar trouble with, and this one is a legit Sony battery. I won't rule it out, but I'd really want a solution that'd last me more than a few months.
>Your shoulder button is probably dirty, have you cleaned it?
I'll have to open it up after the exams. Nothing external would indicate such a problem but I'd be pleasantly surprised if the fix is that easy.
>model
It's a 3004. Thanks for helping me out here, my hardware knowledge ends at everything after the Dreamcast.

[Anonymous No.3986296]

>>3985204
Looking at the schematics online, there's a bit of processing after the NEC chip. You can try pulling L+R off that chip, but I can't promise you'll get usable audio.

[Anonymous No.3986318]

What batteries should I get for old NES/SNES carts?

[Anonymous No.3986385]

>>3986043
it's highly likely, but not guaranteed. try a different RF cable, or ideally, an AV cable.

[Anonymous No.3986481]

My NES has pretty intense wavy lines now and I'm told before putting a 0,1uf cap parallel to cap 15 that I should try a Genesis model 1 DC adapter. Are there cheapo versions of this? The legit one is like 20 bucks on its own

[Anonymous No.3986484]

>>3986296

yeah thanks, gonna save thast as a last resort after some mroe troubleshooting on teh board.

Anyways, something i only noticed while looking at the pictures i took yesterday.

Pic related pointed by the red arrow, does that look like a broken trace going right to the cap? i didnt notice that at plain sight, take into account that i took this pic BEFORE replacing all caps, and the Snes went from absolutely zero audio, to making just a BOOOOOMMMMM when i turn the console on.

[Anonymous No.3986491]

>>3986484
In all honesty, many traces on that board look suspect. I'd force a repair on any trace that looked less than 100% just to be safe.

[Anonymous No.3986525]

>>3986484
Why don't you get a fucking multimeter and check all suspect traces in the area of the leakage for continuity like any smart man would?
There are multiple ones that look fucked.

[Anonymous No.3986526]

What are some good projects to learn how to use a soldering iron and multimeter?

[Anonymous No.3986534]

>>3986525
yep, i saw a couple more just above the arrow that look busted too.

>>3986525
cause i just noticed them at lunch this morning n while i was at work and i plan on doing it when i get home later today.

[Anonymous No.3986576]

>>3986526
Ask friends and family if they have any old busted VCR or similar that they haven't bothered to throw away yet.

Crack that fucker open. Your mission is to depopulate a board. Pick a PCB and use your soldering iron and a desoldering gun or copper wick to remove fucking everything. Caps, resistors, plugs, chips, anything that can be removed. With practice, you learn what temperature you want and how to avoid ripping contacts off the PCB and all that good shit.

Once you get that down, then comes part 2. Learning how to put shit ON the PCB.

"How to use multimeter" Just google that shit, it's all simple, standard, and easy.

[Anonymous No.3986905]

>>3986385
I'll try to get a pair on my next paycheck. Also is there a difference between RF and AV?

[Anonymous No.3987075]

>>3986534

Just finished checking the traces marked in red in pic related... kindda dissapointed all of them have continuity :(

What else should i check? capacitors are new, checked the cart connector for cold points but all of them are OK

seriously thinking about trying to get analogue audio directly from the NEC chip by sodlering some RCA plugs right into it.

I wish someone with knowledge about it could tell me if it will actually work, ive seen threads for getting digital audio directly from the DSP chip but the board is $25 and thats triple what i paid for the console, and theres no guarantee for sound to come back.

[Anonymous No.3987249]

>>3986905
There is a very big difference. I take it you aren't familiar with how analog video works, basically RF jam packs all colors and audio into one cable making interference a guarantee, resulting in no one thing being good. What most people refer to as "AV" cables are composite/audio cables which separate the sound and video, letting for crisp audio and a still jammed, but less noisy video signal. Compared to higher standards like S-Video or RGB, composite is still considered one of the lowest common denominators for video, but is a big jump from RF.

Basically AV cables should fix your audio issue, unless you're using a crappy power supply.

[Anonymous No.3987531]

>>3987075
>seriously thinking about trying to get analogue audio directly from the NEC chip by sodlering some RCA plugs right into it.
Without capacitors in between it won't work great and there's a great chance of even more damage.
Even if it works then you won't get any audio from the cartridge (like Super Gameboy or SD2SNES).

There are some traces hidden inside the PCB and under the chip.
Check the voltage at pins 9 and 10 (they are both connected if you look closer).
Check if there's 5V at pins 3, 4, 7 and 8.
Check the continuity to ground of pins 1, 2, 12 and 14.
Now check if pins 13, 15 and 16 are connected to pins 43, 44 and 42 of the S-SMP chip.

If all these above are connected then you could try to bypass the amplifier, connect RCA ground to ground and a 1K ohm resistor and 10µF capacitor between the RCA pin to pins 11 or 6. Remember to discharge the console first (power on after disconnecting the power supply, the LED must flash).
If there's audio (even if quiet) then the amplifier stage is faulty (either a LM324 or S-MIX).

[Anonymous No.3988789]

I'm trying to replace the screen lense on the gameboy advance and I'm struggling to remove it.

What am I supposed to do?

[Anonymous No.3988825]

>>3987531
thanks anon, ill get to it whe n ig et home,.

[Anonymous No.3989284]

>>3987531

bad news...

>Check the continuity to ground of pins 1, 2, 12 and 14.
those pins are good, they have continuity with one another and to ground on the board.

>>3987531
>Now check if pins 13, 15 and 16 are connected to pins 43, 44 and 42 of the S-SMP chip.

Dont you mean the S-DSP chip? i checked on the S-SMP chip and none of them have continuity with it, however, they actually have continuity with chip S-DSP on the same pins you mention. mine is the GPM 01 model.

>Check the voltage at pins 9 and 10 (they are both connected if you look closer).
>Check if there's 5V at pins 3, 4, 7 and 8.

Anyone caring to help me doing this?
should the console be on or off?
should i put the red tip on the pin and black tip on any ground on teh board?
where should i put the dial on my tester?
pic related

[Anonymous No.3989323]

I was planning on trying to mod my FC2 Twin Slim to play Castlevania III using tutorials online. The only problem is, I can't seem to find a way to open it and mess around with the insides. Any advice?

[Anonymous No.3989952]

>>3989284
>should the console be on or off?
On. Beware that the 7805 will get very hot without heatsink and may start to smell.
You should turn it off after 5 minutes or put a other heatsink on the 7805
>should i put the red tip on the pin and black tip on any ground on teh board?
Yes, the metal shield on the bottom should be enough.
>where should i put the dial on my tester?
VDC (on the left with the straight lines) with the 20V range.

Be careful not to short anything if the tips aren't pointy enough.

[Anonymous No.3990234]

I just bought a Sega CD with an attached Genesis (both are Model 2). It didn't come with a video cable, so I went out and got a cheap chinese SCART one.

The video doesn't seem to display properly, and I'm guessing it's due to a bad capacitor in the Genesis, since the CD addon seemed to work fine (loaded a burned copy of Snatcher instantly) and even though I'm using a cheap Chinese upscaler box, my Saturn displays perfectly fine through it.

Naturally I'm going to try and get at least a partial refund on eBay for this.

The question I have, though: should I keep the CD addon and just buy another Model 2 Genesis, or just throw the whole thing out altogether? It doesn't seem like the CD addon has anything to do with the video output, but I just wanted to make sure.

[Anonymous No.3990726]

>>3990234
could be your chinese SCART cable. SCART is prone to major crosstalk with bad cables and good ones too

[Anonymous No.3990841]

i have a gameboy color that turns on for a split second and turns back off. Batteries are fine, and i cant find much on the internet about this. Anyone know what it is?

[Anonymous No.3990842]

Okay, so stupid me forgot to document where the flex cables goes for the ps2 fat laser. I have the SCPH-3001 version. I just know where the main orange cable goes. Think you could help me out?

[Anonymous No.3990874]

I just did an AC jack replacement on my snes. did a pretty good job.

Before it would turn on but black screen, no audio.

Now when it turns on, there is just a single, thick yellow line going top to bottom vertically.

All caps look good, traces are good, getting a good reading from the fuse. Cleaned the game connector pins, tried to different games, same issue.

I have a pack of oscillators that I could replace but not sure yet. Anybody run into anything similar?

[Anonymous No.3991643]

When a multimeter shows '1', that is open continuity; when it how all zero does that mean no continuity ?

[Anonymous No.3991647]

>>3991643

fuck, "when it shows all zeros"

[Anonymous No.3993179]

I have never soldered shit before, but I need to replace some cartridge batteries. I know it's not super hard, so I figure I'll practice on some shit first.

My question is this:
Can someone recommend an inexpensive iron and supplies? Will any cheap one work? I don't have a lot of money to spare, but I don't want to get a shitty one either.

[Anonymous No.3993204]

>>3993179

Find a 25/30w with a tip that has a screw that holds it in place. That way you can change out the tip when it gets bad. Find a brand name, then look online for web presence..if it doesnt have one, its just a cheap rando chinese company. Check hardware stores and cross-reference what they have.

Solder and solder wick are pretty standard, just make sure its for electronics, not plumbing or other stuff. same goes with flux, which you wont need much of.

[Anonymous No.3993215]

>>3989323

The screw holes might be hidden under any rubber feet. And/or it might be held down with clips that are internal that hold the top and bottom together-which would require sticking a very small flathead between the top bottom and finding the clips to pry off.

[Anonymous No.3993714]

Does anyone kno ehere to find the schematics for the Snes boards? particualrly GPM 01 version.

Im losing hope for fixing my mute Snes, only thing im yet to try is checking every single pin on the sound chips for continuity.

[Anonymous No.3993746]

>>3993714
https://console5.com/techwiki/images/d/dd/Snes_schematic_color.png

Should cover what you're looking for

[Anonymous No.3993843]

I've been whitening the bottom half of my SNES, which was heavily yellowed. I have it reasonably close, but it's still slightly discolored. Is this the closest I can get? I feel like I've been getting diminishing returns the last few times I've gone to whiten it.

[Anonymous No.3994059]

>>3993746

damn, that looks intimidating... i cant even make what am i supposed to be testing LOL.

I guess both audio chips and the NEC amplifier.

[Anonymous No.3994063]

>>3994059
Yep. That is where you start.

[Anonymous No.3994073]

>>3994063
i wish there was a way to just click on one pin and it will highlight the trace and all the points it should be going.

[Anonymous No.3994079]

>>3994073
It would be nice if some one imported it to a schematic maker

[Anonymous No.3994096]

>>3993714
>only thing
I doubt that very much.

[Anonymous No.3994113]

>>3994079
found a nicer list of the pinouts, easier for to understand since it has the actual list of the chips it should go to.

https://github.com/gilligan/snesdev/blob/master/docs/fullsnes.txt

>>3994096
what i meant is, it is the only thing im WILLING to test, after that im giving up.

[Anonymous No.3994687]

>>3993204
Thanks. I'm busy right now, but I'll look in a few. Hopefully I can find a good one!

[Anonymous No.3996308]

With SMD capacitor replacement, do you guys usually replace them with SMD caps or convert to regular leaded caps with bent legs?

[Anonymous No.3996367]

>>3996308
I'll do SMD if I absolutely HAVE to, but other than that I'll go the easy route and just use a standard cap. I have no desire to do SMD work just for looks.

[Anonymous No.3996376]

>>3996308
Of course there's no certain way of telling yet, how much better surface mount ones have become yet
but from my experience and what I've seen online of old machines, smd caps are a lot more prone to leakage than normal through-hole caps.
If I had to choose, I'd just go with the safe route of good old through-hole ones.

[Anonymous No.3997216]

>>3996308
I can't think of a reason I ever would. If the original part had known issues I'd use a better SMD part. I could imagine the theoretical possibility that the better SMD part was thicker and there wasn't enough clearance. I've never run into this but if I did I'd still use the SMD part and relocate it. If I was that tight on space a leaded cap probably wouldn't be an option anyway.

[Anonymous No.3997247]

Anyone have much experience with the ENIO exp board? I made a quick vid demonstrating the difference. It's quite nice if you don't feel like soldering anything or if you plan to use Famicom accessories.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7lIcVtygUI&feature=youtu.be

[Anonymous No.3999317]

>>3997247
Damn, that's quite the difference..

[Anonymous No.3999675]

>>3997247
No, but I have made a simpler board for audio part.

[Anonymous No.3999739]

Anyone here ever worked on an old style RGB mod for the Famicom?
I've recently decided to have a go at it and it works pretty well.
Shit is pretty prone to jailbars though. I've already tried putting some ghetto shielding onto the RGB cables going from the amplifier board but I still get some.
Anything else I can try besides also shielding the RGB cables going into the amp board?

[Anonymous No.3999845]

>pin on the RF cable for my Genesis(mk-1631) snapped off
>no spare cable
Any recommendations for a replacement? Either a composite cable or just a standard RF one would be fine, but I'm not considering buying a used one off sketchy ebay sellers

[Anonymous No.4000237]

>>3999739
I installed the Tim Worthington board in my NES and I'm not really familiar with the oldschool PC10 RGB mod. It's cool that you're giving it a go though, so good luck.

[Anonymous No.4000239]

>>3999845
Don't bother with RF, it's trash. If you want the best picture quality I'd say go for either S-video or RGB Scart, but even composite would be a huge upgrade over RF. There's not much to screw up with composite cables so I'd say you'd be fine getting an aftermarket one if you don't want to buy used.

[Anonymous No.4000262]

will PAL games run in 60Hz on a superCIC modded PAL SNES?

[Anonymous No.4000290]

>>3999739
IIRC you could do some copper tape over the PPU to help with jailbars.

[Anonymous No.4000374]

>>4000237
Thanks! I'm just doing it for curiosity's sake.
With this i've done the oldschool RGB, nesrgb and the hidef.
>>4000290
I actually wanted to put the heatsink back on with a bit of arctic silver since the RGB ppu does seem to get a bit hotter.
It snapped off when i tried cutting a bit off of it to make it fit.
Should I maybe put coppertape onto the ppu and then the heatsink on top of it?

[Anonymous No.4000396]

>>4000374
If you want heatsinks get some of these. They have thermal adhesive backing and they will stick nicely to anything without needing paste. I used a bunch in my Commodore 64 and its disk drive.

[Anonymous No.4000397]

>>4000374
If you want heatsinks get some of these. They have thermal adhesive backing and they will stick nicely to anything without needing paste. I used a bunch in my Commodore 64 and its disk drive.

https://www.amazon.com/Enokay-Cooling-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B014KKY3KI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495013995&sr=1-2&keywords=copper+heatsink

[Anonymous No.4000398]

>>4000374
Put the copper tape on the bottom of the PPU for shielding, then ground/insulate it, the heat sink on top. Think the PC10 PPU might have had issues with heatsink not making contact on the middle of chip, so you might be better off with an aftermarket ones like >>>>4000397
said.

[Anonymous No.4000403]

>>4000398
Meant that the heatsink goes on top of the PPU chip, the point of coppertaping is to shield the PPU from interference from the PCB. You might want to do it for CPU too(your mileage may vary). Also, have you lifted the pin 21? It handles the RF signal, and usually causes some interference - some people who have wanted to keep the RF functionality have just soldered a shielded wire from pin to the contact in the past.

[Anonymous No.4000431]

>>4000397
Already got the paste in the mail and if possible I'd like to keep the original heatsink it came with on it.
Thanks for the tip though! I'll see how hot it gets with the original one and if it doesn't dissipate well enough I'll prolly switch to another.
>>4000398
Yup thanks for the tip! Maybe I'll try putting copper tape on the top and bottom just for good measure. Will have to order some first though.
The original heatsink does keep the middle exposed. I'll see how hot it gets with the original one once i got the paste and switch to another heatsink if I think it's still too much.
>>4000403
Think you meant composite there.
Pin 21 on the RGB PPU is replaced with sync though.
I've read up a lot on people who've done this in the past and never read of anyone doing that especially considering I need it for the RGB output and if I didn't put it trough the onboard amplifying circuit and lift it I'd have to make my own amp circuit.

[Anonymous No.4000463]

>>4000431
Yeah, my bad, been a while since I've read up on PC-10 RGB mods so might've mixed up something there in regard of the pins-

[Anonymous No.4000560]

>>4000463
No worries!
I'll update you guys once I got the tape and the paste in the mail to see how it goes.

On another note, the RGB PPU seems to have a similar problem that some kinds of normal older PPU's have with the Everdrive's savestates only that it is a bit different.
Once you load a savestate, you get CGA Super Mario Bros. Excuse my bad skill of photographing a CRT.

[Anonymous No.4000961]

I want to buy an original famicom. Is there a good way to get composite/s-video mod for it?

I saw this page, but I don't know if it's just for PAL TVs or not. I'm in the US
http://8bitplus.co.uk/projects/famicom-av-mod-nintendo/

[Anonymous No.4001163]

I'm taking the risk of asking something really stupid, my current situation is as following.

I have a NES and a SNES both RGB modded, and I would like to stream game play on them. I have an Elgato HD device which happens to accept S-Video and Composite signals.

I use a PVM 2030 for gaming on those two consoles, however I've noticed that when using a S-Video Y Splitter, the video quality gets horrible on my monitor.

I would like to use RGB on my monitor while using S-Video on the ElGato capturer.

Which leaves me with this question: Can I mod my NES and SNES to add a secondary Multi AV Port (I already added a Multi AV Port on my NES) so I can use both cables at the same time, S-Video for the capture device and Scart for the Monitor?

Would this create interference between them or something?

Using a Frameister is just out of the question for me, too expensive and living in a third world country doesn't help.

[Anonymous No.4001215]

>>4000961
Why not AV Famicom(supports disk system, standard NES controller plugs, expansion port for disk system)? You could do something like RGBNES mod too.

[Anonymous No.4001581]

>>4001163
Get a powered switch for S-video

One with two outs preferably.

If you really want to play via RGB and have S video be streamed, you might need to get a custom cable made with S video attached. That would be easier then adding a second AV out.

[Anonymous No.4001638]

>>4001581
Surely you mean a distribution amplifier?

[Anonymous No.4001648]

>>4001638
I use a RCA/S-video switch that does the same thing. If you want you can get that.

[Anonymous No.4002217]

>>4001638
No. He meant what he said.
Does being an elitist shitposting faggot preclude you from accepting that as a possibility?

[Anonymous No.4002221]

I recently got a Super Famicom and bought an American power supply made for the sfc/fc. However I just noticed there is a fuzzy bar vertically scrolling across my screen. Is this noise from my power supply? It's 10V 850mA, here's the link.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332187588053?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Anonymous No.4002552]

>>4002217
It's just that I've never come across a decent quality s-video switch with multiple outs. For anon's application a DA would seem to be the best solution.

Sorry to have rustled your jimmies.

[Anonymous No.4002831]

I'm working on Model 1 Sega CD that won't switch on, and I need some help.
What's the direct generic replacement for TR4 transistor? Original one is NEC 2SB963.
I think it's the reason, because bypassing it, connecting emitter and collector (with no Megadrive connected) makes laser light up. Same should happen with Megadrive connected when I switch it on, but it doesn't. That's why I think it's the transistor.

I also replaced all caps, cleaned all boards and fixed two broken traces.

[Anonymous No.4002861]

>>4002831
From comparing the datasheets you should be able to use a BC878 or BSP61 for instance.

[Anonymous No.4002897]

>>4002221
The rating doesn't always ring true when dealing with cheap chink power bricks. Get your multimeter and see what it really puts out.
>$15
For fucks sake anon, that's practically the price of an OEM power brick. If you are gonna cheap out, at least buy at a cheap price.

[Anonymous No.4003774]

>>4002552
Of course you've never come across one. All you do is parrot memes from your moms basement.

>>4002831
Literally any PNP
>I also replaced all caps, cleaned all boards and fixed two broken traces.
Well there's yer problem

[Anonymous No.4003853]

>>4003774
>parrot memes from your moms basement
Are you the IBM cunt who was attempting to argue with me last night?

In any case...I haven't lived with my mum for nearly two decades, I have two children of my own and my cellar (not basement) is where I keep my wine and christmas decorations.

Come up with a serious reason why my suggestion is invalid or kindly shut your trap.

[Anonymous No.4004194]

>>3984750
I mean, the name brand one might, but generic magic erasers are literally just a block of melanine foam, they basically work like sandpaper.
That's why they take crayons, paint, and the wall itself off of walls

[Anonymous No.4004606]

I posted before and no help so let me simplify my question.

With my snes, with the AV multiout im getting a yellow band with noise on screen, but swapping in a NES RF instead, im getting just a black screen. (both have no audio). Does this help to narrow down my issue to a single component?

[Anonymous No.4004850]

>>4003853
Different cunt. Tell us more about those two children in your moms basement.

[Anonymous No.4005159]

>>4004850
They're both more intelligent than you.

[Anonymous No.4005189]

>>4000463
Ok, I've done quite a few things to make my Playchoice-10 RGB AV Fami better now.
First of all, I've found this page here: http://16bitgamer.canadian-forum.com/t219-rgb-nes-famicom-and-jailbar-removal
And copied did Rule #5 and #6.
Next thing I did was replace the 90 Ohm resistors on my amp board with 75 Ohm resistors since the picture was too dark with the old ones. Now it's perfect.
Then I've put a few layers of coppertape around my PPU and ground the coppertape to the board.
After that I've put some heat paste on top of the PPU and put the original heatsink back on.
I've also put in an LED so I can see some light through that air vent on the front bottom of the console.
I don't like drilling a hole into my case so I didn't go for the power switch LED method.
To be honest, the coppertape itself already seemed to help with the heat dissipation and now with the heatsink it feels perfectly fine so i'll leave it like that.
Excuse the aspect ratio but I switched to my LCD to make a photo since I'm apparently too retarded to make a good photo of a CRT.
Just made that photo of the screen to show how sharp the picture is anyways.

This thing is mighty fine now.

[Anonymous No.4005279]

>>4005189
For future reference, you might want to take certain stuff Drak0n says about modding with grain of salt(such as proper hot glue usage etc). Nice to hear you managed to work it out though!

[Anonymous No.4005294]

>>4005279
Thanks!
I know very well about Drakon's idiocy. I mean who doesn't at this point?
Everything from #4 and later are from somebody else though + they're no major changes + I didn't test those change with the RGB PPU itself.
I'd probably bash my head against a wall if I was stupid enough to kill that PPU.

Last thing I could do as mentioned in that post is also socket and shield the CPU since I still get some jailbards visible on certain colors.
Doing so is quite a pain though, since i stickied the RGB amp onto the CPU... Might do that some time in the future but for now I'm just gonna say it's fine...

[Anonymous No.4005348]

so, i got a loose saturn at the goodwill next to my office for $12.99, no controllers or AV cable. It powers on and any random disc I put in there spins, but is there anyway I can tell from like audio, or peeking inside the console if the laser is dead? Is spinning up a good sign that it's moderately healthy? Looks like a model one, and it's in decent shape otherwise. I'll have to buy all the accesories, so I don't want to spend a bunch if I can easily tell that it's dead.

[Anonymous No.4005358]

>>4005348
Since the saturn seems to use the same laser assembly as the X'eye as stated here:
http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?22027-Sega-CD-systems-repair-thread
and I had trouble with my X'eye a while back I can tell you that the CD only spins up if the laser can focus and see a CD is there.
If it was completely dead it would not spin up at all. You can pretty easily replace the laser anyways though, so I dunno what exactly your problem is...

[Anonymous No.4005378]

>>4005358
No problem at all yet, I just haven't had a saturn i like 15 years so I wanted a second opinion before I got a game, AV cable, and controller. I really appreciate the response, that makes sense.

[Anonymous No.4005413]

>>4005348
If it spins up, that means the laser sees the disc. It doesn't mean it can read discs perfectly though, but I'd say it is a good sign.

You need controllers and AV cables to test it because the system asks for the date at power on and will not actually boot the game before you set it up.

[Anonymous No.4005438]

>>4005413
Thanks! Well I think it's worth a shot at this point. One of those preflashed $25 Pseudo Saturn carts on eBay could make this a cool find. Praise to SEGA for using standard power supplies too... Since I work next to a goodwill I go every single day on my lunch in hopes of finding some cool shit, and this is pretty much the first good /vr/ find.

[Anonymous No.4006309]

I just bought some SNES cables, but they have this strong sort of dirty plastic/rubber smell (maybe from the previous owners smoking indoors) that fills my entire room. I've cleaned them a bunch of times with rubbing alcohol and a 50/50 water/vinegar solution, but the smell is still there. What else should I do? I can't live like this.

[Anonymous No.4006330]

Is there a way to get sound out directly from one of the audio chips on the Snes?

Secodn revision board, GPM 01, i wanna solder some RCA cables directly to the audio chip cause my Snes has no sound at all after replacing caps and doing the basic troubleshooting.

[Anonymous No.4006385]

>>3990234

So I got a second Genesis for like $15 on Ebay, and yeah it's definitely bad capacitors in the CD addon. Sending the whole thing back on Monday.

[Anonymous No.4007139]

>>4006309
Keep soaking them, or, get new ones. Are they just the AV cables? Because those are cheap.

[Anonymous No.4007612]

Hi guys.
Couple of weeks ago I got "8 bit music power final" cartridge (homebrew music album for Famicom) and also got Kazzo cartridge dumper, so I could share it with everyone.
Unfortunately, it seems like it's impossible to dump with this hardware, just like the previous one.
https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13857&start=15
Dumper works fine because I managed to get a copy of different game with CRC matching ROM you can get online.

Also for some reason this album won't work on my AVS, so I can't do tapedump method. And at this point I'm not even sure if the cartridge is dead or alive, until I get another famiclone/legit Famicom.
Question is. If I desolder two chips, dump them with programmer and combine both files, should it give me working ROM, or there will be some other problems.

[Anonymous No.4007978]

>>4006385
Or you can recap it and sell it off for profit instead of sending it back where it will get junked.

[Anonymous No.4008105]

>>4007612
Legend of Owlia for example, required a certain pin to be isolated from the Kazzo to dump correctly so who knows, maybe it's something similar.
Well, anyways I believe the chips on those newly manufactured PCBs are TSOP ones right?
If so I would advise you against doing that. Unless you are certain you can pull it off and have the right tools to desolder and dump them + experience, chances are you're gonna fuck it up. TSOP chips are incredibly fiddly and the pins can bend easily. Once that happens you're fucked.
That said, yes if you dump both the chips, combine them and add the correct header, you'll have a working ROM.

[Anonymous No.4008369]

I know people here normally don't like people talking about reddit but this is literal fucking enraging comedy gold.
>NES Expansion Port doesn't serve any purpose
>Well I'm autistic and need to remove it but I'm actually too retarded to use my two hands without fucking shit up
>Tfw this is the outcome
The fact he first asked people about what could be wrong without a clue just kills it.

[Anonymous No.4008406]

>>4008369
i dont even understand. why would one remove something that's completely hidden regardless?

[Anonymous No.4008408]

>>4008406
I can't make anything out of this person either so just read for yourself.
https://www.reddit.com/r/nes/comments/6cc7w2/tried_removing_expansion_port_now_my_nes_doesnt/
He calls it OCD, I call it pure retardation.

[Anonymous No.4008532]

>>4008408
never has a 'wew' seemed more appropriate.

w
e
w

[Anonymous No.4008557]

>>4007139

OEM s-video cable and an AC adapter. I did some more cleaning last night after posting that, and they seem better, but still a problem.

[Anonymous No.4008567]

>>4008557
bummer, I've been fortunate to not ever end up with particularly smelly consoles/accesories. I mean my Famicoms and PC Engines are all yellow as hell though. Such was 80s Japan I guess.

[Anonymous No.4008589]

>>4008567

The only other thing that I've had this same exact problem with was my Japanese Saturn. It still technically has the smell if you get close to the vent on the back, but it's mostly gone and not noticeable. I think that it would probably be completely gone if I were able to completely scrub every interior component without breaking anything, which I obviously couldn't. That gives me hope that this problem will sort itself out on its own eventually, but I'd still like to speed up the process.

[Anonymous No.4008905]

>>4008589
Could always try the plastic bag trick. Forget what you put in the bag with it but it's absorbent

[Anonymous No.4008989]

So, I got a sega saturn steering wheel, and everything works with the exception of the actual steering wheel, which makes the controller useless.
I've tried searching for a way to open/repair the analog part, but I alway end up on cleaning guides for the saturn analog pad.
Does anyone know where the analog part is located in that huge controller, and what I should check if I want to make it work again?

[Anonymous No.4009875]

Quick question gys...

Got a cheap Snes model GPM 02 that turns on but always gives me a black screen, i have a second perfectly working Snes model GPM 01 i swapped parts with, so far i tested

AC adapter works on my second console
video cables work on my second console, both RF and Multiout.
cart connector, its the removable model so i just tested it on the other console and it boots the games no problems.

Dont ee any obvious damage, and im suspecting dead caps.

I know shit about electronics besides the basic stuf so i wanna know...

Should good caps give continuity between both legs or not? asking cause i took my cheap tester, and most of them give continuity btw the legs.

out of curiosity i did the same on my working Snes and they also give me continuity so, im confused.

Is my tester falutly or is this normal?

[Anonymous No.4009913]

>>4009875
Good caps should not give continuity

[Anonymous No.4009953]

>>4009913
ok then... could my Snes work even if they are giving cintinuity? cause on my working Snes some of them have continuity, so its either, my tester is fautly, or Snes can work even when caps are shorted.

Im so fiucking confused now, best bet is borrowing another tester from a friend tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.4009970]

>>4009953
I'm assuming you're either doing something wrong or your multimeter is weird

[Anonymous No.4009993]

>>4009970

just to be sure.. do i have to test continuity by putting the negative tip on the negative leg of the cap? and possitive on possitive or it doesnt matter?

[Anonymous No.4010062]

So I replaced the 72-pin connector in my NES and while it worked first try, inserting a cart was really snug. Should I avoid swapping carts for a bit?

[Anonymous No.4010157]

>>4009993

That doesn't matter.

If the capacitors are showing continuity constantly, then they have gone open and are not good.

Not showing continuity isn't a sign of good caps though, it just means it hasn't gone open.
A bad cap with a high resistance will not show continuity the same as a good cap with low resistance.

[Anonymous No.4010531]

>>4010062
Always try and get the original working. Those cheap Chinese knock off slots scrape your games and will corrode quite fast.

[Anonymous No.4011586]

Where can I get replacement screws for a Wavebird?

[Anonymous No.4012249]

in a bit of a dilemma here, my game boy color won't power on and i've tried fresh batteries, cleaned the contacts, used a power adapter, etc. but the thing is, when i power it on, the power light blips for a split second and immedately turns off the system. any idea how i could get the thing working? i'm not too keen on it's internals

[Anonymous No.4014424]

>>4012249
Sounds like electrical problem, if you own proper tools you could give it a look/upload photos here, sound like capacitors have leaked or something

[Anonymous No.4014728]

>>4005159
>i can't find something
>ur a moran
lel

[Anonymous No.4015042]

>>4014728
Why would I go out of my way to pick up a shitty multi-out switch when I'm tripping over cheap Extron DAs?

[Anonymous No.4015398]

>>4007612
You won't know what works until it works. It would be trivial for someone who knows what they're doing and want's to prevent amateurs from dumping their shit to do it. However if you dump the actual chips it will give you the raw data. Even if you can't make sense of it it would give people with more experience something to work with. A scan of the PCB would also be useful to them.

[Anonymous No.4015731]

>>4015042
>i can't find something
>i can't walk without tripping
Pretty sad sport. Try not to poke your eye out typing.

[Anonymous No.4016353]

the general framerate of my nintendo 64 has increased, games are running too fast. Is there anything I can do about it?

[Anonymous No.4016364]

>>4016353
sounds like a blessing

[Anonymous No.4016513]

>>4016364
it hasn't become unplayable, it's simply annoying and inconvenient.

[Anonymous No.4016524]

>>4016353
Throw Goldeneye or Perfect Dark in.

[Anonymous No.4016997]

>>4016524
On some games it's actually an interesting experience and enhances the gameplay, on some it doesn't matter, but others have become very bothersome because the speed the game should be running on is engrained in my mind.

[Anonymous No.4017025]

>4015731
>LOOK MA! I GREENTEXTED AGAIN!

Fucking pathetic

[Anonymous No.4017053]

Is there any way I can test all the pins coming off a genesis game rom chip before I buy a replacement board to put it in to verify its going to work?

[Anonymous No.4017059]

Recently aquired pic related after searching local games shops for it for a few years. It boots up fine but has horrible cosmetic smoke damage.

Any advise on how to remove the staining?

[Anonymous No.4017072]

>>4017053
Volt meter?

[Anonymous No.4017124]

>>4017059
Acetone wiped the smoke damage right off, along with the texture on the cartridge. Live and learn. Would not recommend.

[Anonymous No.4017132]

>>4007612
>>4008105
do not desolder tsop packages unless you have a hot air solution.

If you do, they are TRIVIAL to desolder.
Just get a fork tip for your heating device, set it to 275C and gently heat the legs with the split tip, and when it comes loose, nudge it away with a pair of tweezers.

Hope you have a TSOP test socket to mount it in your reader.

[Anonymous No.4017137]

>>4017124
acetone melts plastic, doof.
Next time use alcohol on the plastic part.

[Anonymous No.4017142]

>>4017124
>Acetone
So you didn't even bother to google for an answer? Just grabbed whatever was nearby? Nice job.

[Anonymous No.4017149]

>>4017137
tried alchohol. no effect
>>4017142
google didnt turn up shit, but for future reference, tell me what I should have used.

[Anonymous No.4017152]

>>4017149
Just for clarification, the "remove smoke damage from plastic" guides I found online all recommended scrubbing with bleach or vinegar, which had no effect.

[Anonymous No.4017154]

>>4017149
>google didn't turn up shit
Did you even fucking try?
https://www.google.com/#safe=off&q=how+to+clean+plastic

Alcohol, as in the Iso type. Handsoap and water. Vinegar. Water with some baking soda. There's ton of viable options that don't involve using a FUCKING SOLVENT.

[Anonymous No.4017156]

>>4017154
I literally tried all of that

[Anonymous No.4017159]

>>4017156
You posted the question, then the damage an hour later. You gotta let this stuff soak. Takes time to penetrate years of grime. Seriously dude, a solvent. What the shit?

[Anonymous No.4017163]

>>4017159
It worked. Just got done buffing the area smooth. Can hardly tell.

[Anonymous No.4017165]

>>4017025
>not knowing how to reply to a post
>calling someone else pathetic
lel

[Anonymous No.4017213]

>>4017072

A volt meter/multimeter was my guess, but i dont know if it would get a reading on all pins, and what to test for each pin (if something different).

[Anonymous No.4017248]

>>4017159
After some finishing sanding. Less noticable than the smoke damage

[Anonymous No.4017282]

>>4017248
>It looks melted
>STILL has fucking grime on it
You are doing this on purpose, aren't you?

[Anonymous No.4017387]

>>4017282
Not grimes, burns. The thing was is a house fire and was quite a bit melted when I got it. I only got it because it was working and marked down.

[Anonymous No.4019803]

>>4017248
>not sure if bait or just autistic and poor

[Anonymous No.4019994]

I don't know if this is the right thread for this, but I have a N64 controller which has a loose control stick. I've never tried to fix it, and the local retro game store wants $30 to fix it. What do?

[Anonymous No.4019997]

>>4019994
Hah. $30? They'll just toss in a game cube replacement.

Save $20 and replace it yourself.

[Anonymous No.4019998]

>>4019997
I don't have any experience with fixing control sticks. Any guides I could read for how to fix a N64 control stick?

[Anonymous No.4020003]

>>4019998
It's literally a self contained unit open the controller and unplug the old one.

[Anonymous No.4020356]

>4017165
I've been on 4chan over ten years, I know how to reply to a post thankyouverymuch.

I also know how to deny you your (You) :)

[Anonymous No.4020498]

Still working on Sega CD Model 1 repairs, and I have some troubles with tray alignment
https://youtu.be/lRWOHhbtS2A?t=4m47s
at this point, my tray just slides further instead of stopping. What should I check?

[Anonymous No.4021815]

>>4020498
check the limit switches. Should look like a plastic tower with 2 pieces of metal in it.

Those tell the tray when its reached the right position.

[Anonymous No.4022381]

>>4011586
Nobody then? My current screws are just about stripped and I wanna clean this thing.

[Anonymous No.4022416]

>>4022381
What screws they use? Nintendo's standard 9mm tri-wing? You could check ebay for that. You could also check out the lenght and thread pitch for yourself and get appropriate machine screws, or just walk into place that sells small screws and ask them to measure it out for you and if they have any philips/torx heads with same size on stock.

[Anonymous No.4022443]

>>4022381
A trashed game boy might yield some screws

[Anonymous No.4024104]

>>4020356
>i meant to do that
>ive been on 4chan over 10 years
>but i care about (You)s
>I'm fooling anyone but myself
lel

[Anonymous No.4024195]

Anyone know where to get a replacement laser for an original model PlayStation? Mine's been dead for a while and I still have it, figure I might as well try getting it working again.

[Anonymous No.4024607]

>>4024195
>original model PlayStation
A 100x?

Rip one out of a PSOne. It's a straight swap.

[Anonymous No.4024668]

is there anything Mario can't fix?

[Anonymous No.4024746]

>>4024668
His relationship with Pauline

[Anonymous No.4024771]

>>4016353
bump for help. on the upside, f-zero x is a blast.

[RETRO PIRACY No.4026773]

>>3964369

I just enearthed this bad boy of copier. It doesn't boot. The BIOS for this one is still undumped in 2017, at least in GoodRoms set. Someone has it? I'm also down for a memory expansion mod, so if you got any info on this mod I'm in.

The SF7 got too much love than these early fuckers.

[Anonymous No.4027071]

>>4026773
>bad boy
Bad as in terrible. Boy as in not manly, weak and immature. Spot on.
>undumped
lel
>It doesn't boot
>what did they mean by this?
If it doesn't power on it's probably the vr.
I'm sure I have one. I have a few boxes of these things. From what I recall the memory is on a daughter board and there's an extra header for another. The "mod" involves buying another memory card and plugging it in. The card will probably cost you as much a chink ED so is a complete waste of time and money. It's possible to make your own for under $10. Still pointless.

The SF7 got love because it can run the 50% of the library that's larger than 8mbit. It can run stuff the ED is too puny to run. What's not to love?

If you really want to use an old school copier that's cool. Personally I still use a few because they can do things the modern russian knockoffs can't. But that thing's a turd. Best thing to do is flog it to some collector and wait for the guys at totokek to have a sale. They had some 32mbit device for ~$20 about 6 months ago. That and a gotek make a really nice system.

[RETRO PIRACY No.4027103]

>>4027071
You're right on all the points. I just want to document its restoration for preservation's sake.
A working BIOS dump (only the SF6's and SF7's have been dumped IINM) will help greatly since mine got its EEPROM naked without any covering sticker. I got what it takes to burn EEPROM.
Regarding memory expansion
I'm willing to make my own but I don't know where to start without any pinout.

Cheers for the tips about Tototek sales I'll check these out.

>modern russian knockoffs
color me interested I didn't know russian made some. do you have any pointers?

[Anonymous No.4027223]

>>4027103
I don't really understand the obsession with dumping everything under the sun. But I have a lot of uncommon stuff so I've done quite a bit. If dumping old copiers is now a thang I'd be willing to help. But is there any place archiving this shit? I know an assload more has been dumped but I couldn't tell you where to find it. Regardless, I'll try to dig through my boxes some time in the next week or so and find a sf2 and dump it. If I have one with extra memory all the better.

For the memory expansion, worst case scenario you have the pinout of a 6502 and all these devices use that. You could trace everything back to that. Best case you get your hands on an actual board. But if you're going to make repro memory board for old copiers start with the SF7 and v64. Those are actually useful and in demand.

The modern russian knockoffs are EDs. Several years ago krikzz bought out a bunch of old copiers and reverse engineered them. If he was yellow everyone would call them knockoffs.

[Anonymous No.4027240]

>>4008369
>>4008408
it looks like he just threw the NES motherboard away and replaced it with a laptop computer motherboard

http://imgur.com/xQo0PQ3

[Anonymous No.4027364]

>>4016353
>>4024771
Ok, I don't have an N64, this is just what I've heard.

The N64's CPU clock multiplier can be set by the presence of 3.3V or not on two pins, 112 and 116. If both of those pins are set to ground, then your CPU speed should be normal. If one of those two is getting 3.3V, then your clock speed will be either 1.5X or 2X. So pull out your multimeter and see if either pin is getting voltage.

Another possible problem is maybe one of your crystals has gone bad. I don't know how likely that is, but maybe a solder joint on one of the crystals has gone bad? Check the continuity for X1 and X2 and see if either one isn't making a connection somewhere.

Good luck.

[Anonymous No.4027405]

>>4027364
you, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. thanks, I will give it a try.

[Anonymous No.4027413]

>>4027223
ironically, his army of loyalists screech about the chinese ED clones.

[Anonymous No.4028425]

>>4027413
That's the main reason it gives me such pleasure to point this out. Krikzz is a pretty cool guy and doesn't afraid of anything. His ass licking fanbois on the other hand are pure cancer.

[RETRO PIRACY No.4028610]

>>4027223
>>4027223
There not so much an obsession, it's only a matter of repairing what can be. There some retrogaming focused torrent trackers that you can put that on but if you don't want to mess with their upload rules just put it somewhere online like on MEGA and I'll do the rest

Cheers!

[Anonymous No.4028648]

>>4027413
>chinese ED clones
what's an 'ED'?

[Anonymous No.4028696]

>>4028648
Enforcement Droid

[Anonymous No.4028765]

>>4028648
Jesus. Summer sure does bring em young and dumb.

[Anonymous No.4028776]

>>4028765
Reading a comment like yours we surely can see that

[Anonymous No.4029237]

>>4028776
someone hit to close to home?

[Anonymous No.4029563]

Does anyone know a reputable place to buy either an offical or really well made third party SNES power supply? The RetroBit one is shit and puts lines all over the signal.

[Anonymous No.4029572]

>>4029563
https://en.retrogamesupply.com

[Anonymous No.4030086]

>>4028425
Agreed 100%. I'm glad he's doing what he's doing, and I have an official TED, but I got my EDN8 from AliExpress and it works just as well. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Anonymous No.4030129]

>>4030086
Personally I'd go for a real N8 flash cart as there's some real work involved making one whereas a TED is a piece of piss. But glad it worked out for you. MD is another one there's no point in paying a premium for.

[Anonymous No.4030826]

>>4030129
Yeah the N8 I've had for a year or 2 now and haven't had any issues at all. I would have gone with a 'clone' for the TED too, but I bought it before they had cloned them, I think they're a fairly recent development. The price difference is significant on an N8 as well, whereas it's like $30 on a TED. Either way, Krikkz seems to have abandoned all firmware updates for them so it doesn't really matter anymore whether you buy a real one of anything.

[Anonymous No.4030902]

Original Xbox owner here, yes not very Retro, but this is the only console repair thread I know of.

Someone told me that the timer cap starts to corrode/leak so I read up on OX maintenance (cap change, drive belt, 80mm fan replacement), but couldn't find anything about pic related. Weird skewed lines all over the picture. Console is hooked up via RGB Scart and set to PAL60 + Widescreen. (not that the OX allows for more anyway...)

Pretty sure it didn't have those lines like... 5 years ago. Since then it had been sitting in a box stowed away.

[Anonymous No.4030973]

>>4030902
Open the console and look around, if the problem isn't immediately obvious examine the capacitors make sure they're not bulging. Also remove the timer cap if that problem applies to you.

I had to replace like 7 caps in mine which were all failed and leaking. The xbox was actually released right in the middle of the capacitor plague of the 2000s so I assume there are a lot of consoles that have bad caps out there.

[Anonymous No.4031035]

>>4030973
>Open the console and look around
Did, looks like new. I guess the owner before me barely played at all (just like me). There wasn't even any dust on the fan.
The (Rubycon) Caps all look brand new, not even bulging the slightest bit. Of course no leakage as well.

Well fuck, guess I will have to throw out 10€ for a Component Cabel in the hopes that the RGB cabel is fucked (tested on a second TV as well, got the same lines).

What you don't do for some Panzer Dragoon Orta...

[Anonymous No.4031573]

>>4030973
Ya have to be careful because v 1.6 boards can't boot without the cap. The best you can do is replace it.

[Anonymous No.4031582]

>>4031035
if you want to play Panzer Dragoon Orta, among a few other games, higher than 480i/576i on a 1.6MOBO without major graphical glitching, you're gonna have to softmod/chip/TSOP

[Anonymous No.4031583]

>>4030902
>>4031035

>>4031582 here, I've run into weird lines like that with bad power supplies or bad video out cables as well

[Anonymous No.4032206]

>>4030902
Do you get those lines with composite?

[Anonymous No.4032965]

>>3964369
When would you EVER need a flathead to service a Nintendo system, MARIO?

[Anonymous No.4033307]

>>4028648
ED stands for everdrive retard. But only even bigger fucktards call this an ED since it's a single word

[Anonymous No.4033326]

>>4033307
OK we'll say E instead since that's not at all ambiguous.

[Anonymous No.4033392]

>>4032965
How else is he supposed to pry money out of your pocket?

[Anonymous No.4033558]

Is there a way to boot backups on a PS1 without a swap-trick or mod-chip? I used to have a boot-disc that would usually do the trick, but I can't seem to find them anymore.

[Anonymous No.4033563]

>>4033558
There's a gadget that plugs into the parallel port that lets you swap easily. I think it was made by those companies that sell cheat devices like action replay.

[Anonymous No.4033715]

>>4033307
Wouldn't everdrive retard be ER?

[Anonymous No.4033829]

>>4033563
thanks anon, I'll look into it. surprisingly difficult to google this shit due to the abundance of PS2 info for playing PS1 backups. I got an SPCH-1001 for 5$ to-day so I want to have some fun with it,

[Anonymous No.4033872]

>>4033558
>>4033563
>>4033829
I know you can do a super safe and esy disc swap using just the stock CD player on a 1002 but that may only apply to euro BIOS.

As anon mentioned, many Gameshark-type devices will allow you to do this. Bonus points if you flash it with UniROM, which basically turns it into a removable modchip.

[Anonymous No.4033874]

>>4033872
>esy
Easy*

Phoneposters eh?

[Anonymous No.4033908]

>>4033874
A phone would normally autocorrect to a correctly spelled but hilariously out of context word.

[Anonymous No.4033919]

>>4033872
Yeah the gameshark IO port devices are dirt cheap, but the ancient internet is telling me only certain ones work. The thing I used to have was a PS-X-Change 2, which are ~$20 now, but the gamesharks look ideal. if anyone has any info on which ones I should look for do chime in. this thing is playing audio cds great, I'm pumped I got such a good deal.

[Anonymous No.4033928]

>>4033872
>Bonus points if you flash it with UniROM, which basically turns it into a removable modchip.
What can UniROM do that the stock gameshark firmware can't?

[Anonymous No.4033931]

>>4033908
It would if I hadn't turned all the nanny options off...
>>4033919
Yeah there's plenty of UniROM info out there. Problem is you'd still need some way of loading a burned CD in the first place to get it flashed. Unless of course you kneel to the scalpers and get one ready made...

[Anonymous No.4033938]

>>4033928
Loads of shit.

http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=366

[Anonymous No.4034040]

>>4033931
Found an older 'gold finger' on eBay, looks like it might do the trick. comes with a spring too, might look into unirom flashing if i grab it

[Anonymous No.4034042]

additionally, does the spch-1001 not read cd-rs well? i'm finding conflicting info.

[Anonymous No.4034051]

Didn't know where the hell to even ask this question at all on this site so I figured this board would work and I noticed this type of thread so I assume it's safe to ask here;

What's a good place to buy defective consoles for cheap? I need a defective fat PS2 solely for the casing so I can modify it into a fight stick.

[Anonymous No.4034054]

>>4034051
just get a parts one on eBay, though I'm not sure why you want to do that.

[Anonymous No.4034224]

>>4034054
Look at that aesthetic. PS2 will be max aesthetic

[Anonymous No.4034232]

>>4034224
barf

[Anonymous No.4034241]

>>4034232
Of course that looks like shit though. PS2 will be god

[Anonymous No.4034393]

>>4034224
Looks like shit. So will a PS2. And shit weight, feel, durability, etc.

[Anonymous No.4035567]

Looking into getting a famicom, since the games are cheaper and I'd like the external sound chip support. A few questions about mods:

1) For the launch model FC, is there a better solution to the controller wire length than to just lower the resistor values in the controller and make a longer wire by hand? Has anyone cooked up a good way to make an external controller port?
2) Composite modding the famicom model 1 isn't so hard, but has anyone cooked up a better video signal? My options personally are RF, composite, component, and HDMI, and I know you can't fit HiDef NES inside a FC.
3) Does anyone make a NES to FC converter?

[Anonymous No.4035649]

>>4034042
If it has an original laser assembly with worn plastic sled and is badly adjusted, yes.

Otherwise, no. It's the same as any other model.

[Anonymous No.4035684]

>>4035567
About 2), depending on your skill and willingness to hack stuff together, you can actually install the hidef into an og famicom. It's all about space constraints so you'll basically have to rewire everything in a way it fits and there have beendet some japanese people who put in the effort to do that.
Personally, I'd just go with the AV Famicom but if you really want to then i'd go for the NESRGB since at least that mod fits with a special Adapter pcb without rewiring.
About 3) You've got 3 options:
Either scour ebay for an old adapter from back in the day, which were used for famiclones to play NES games on in regions were Nintendo wasnt operating. You'll easily find them from eastern europe or south america. These are actually pretty good quality most of the time though they are pretty much always not 100% correctly wired but that can easily be fixed.
Option 2 is getting a new one from aliexpress or a chinese ebay seller. Somehow the cases they use for these aren't as solid as the old ones from back in the day and they still have the working issues.
I think there's also currently someone in the US selling some chinese ones.
Option 3) is the nes to fami Adapter made by the Same japanese Company that made the retrofreak. It's more expensive but it's pretty solid as fuck and pretty high quality.
If im not mistaken these also come correctly wired from the factory but im not 100% on that.

[Anonymous No.4035714]

Any idea about >>4008989 ?

[Anonymous No.4036293]

>>4017163

The acetone didn't actually remove the grime. What it did was remove the plastic the grime was stuck to. It "worked" about the same as a file or sander would have.

[Anonymous No.4037720]

>>4035567
There are plenty of ways to deal with the controllers. For an americkid I'd say go with an adapter that lets you use NES controllers. Then you can use whatever you can easily find locally.
Composite is all you're going to manage without spending silly money and doing a lot of work. I've heard the hidef doesn't fit in a FC. I think this is more it wasn't designed to. I'm sure with a dremel and enough hot glue it could be done. kek
What kind of "converter"? You mean to play NES carts on a FC? Yes.

[Anonymous No.4037857]

Not retro but does anyone know where to get the screw plugs for a black DSi? This shit is bothering me I can't find any replacements.

[Anonymous No.4038168]

I get my gamebit here in a couple days, any tips for cleaning my snes and n64? Aside from the same shit i see over and over on youtube

[Anonymous No.4038965]

>>4038168
q-tips, 90%+ alcohol; you don't need anything else.

[Anonymous No.4039028]

For Saturnfags

My Saturn is getting old and was having trouble reading games, so a few days ago I was adjusting my Sega Saturn's laser by rotating the orange screw (potentiometer) for hours which didn't work, but eventually I started messing with another plastic screw, it was white and to the right of the orange one and I managed to get it working that way. Im on mobile so I don't have pics but it was on the right side of the unit where the laser slides back and forth I think. Just want to know if anyone knows exactly what it does because I probably will have to open the console next time it stops working.

[Anonymous No.4040716]

Hey /vr/.
What's the proper way to get csync out of PC Engine? PC Engine Duo precisely.
Seems like easiest way should be composite video through LM1881, but there is also csync pin on HU6260. Unfortunately, I don't have oscilloscope to investigate it.
Maybe you know how to use it for RGB? Can tap it directly for 75 Ohm Csync? Or maybe it requires amplification? Or maybe it's TTL csync.

[Anonymous No.4041265]

My PS2 can read CD-ROMs (PS1 and blue disk PS2 games), but can't read DVD-5's or DVD-9's.

I'm almost positive it's the disks not spinning fast enough because of low-voltage and/or worn parts, but I'd like your thoughts on it. It's a "slim" model if that helps.

[Anonymous No.4041287]

>>4041265
There are two pots to adjust the laser power. You can try lowering the resistance of the pot marked "DVD" to see if it works.

[Anonymous No.4041626]

>>4040716
You can buy a ~$20 adapter on ebay that does RGB/C-sync from the expansion port. Pic related, though I’m running composite on it right now. Sorry for the enormous picture, I’m on my iPad.

[Anonymous No.4041627]

>>4040716
Aw fuck sorry, I missed the ‘pc-engine duo’ part. disregard that.

[Anonymous No.4041649]

>>4027405
Well anon, how did it go? Did you find the problem?

[Anonymous No.4041653]

>>4041626
What's the adapter called?

[Anonymous No.4041743]

>>4041653
let me see if I can find his ‘store’ page, he sells a few varieties, even component adapters.
http://www.ebay.com/usr/choijustin

dude’s legit, and everything is super reasonably priced. mine works great, though you’ve really got to jam in on the expasion port, but that’s kind of the nature of the beast with PCE accesories.

[Anonymous No.4041908]

>>4041287
I'd hazard shit's fucked. Getting infinite resistance.

PS2's are super cheap though, so it's not a major loss.

[Anonymous No.4041925]

>>3978661
Probably just capacitors on the motherboard that need replacing.

[Anonymous No.4044101]

I have a SNES that doesn't display color properly. The color is blocked by horizontal bars that make the color black and white. on 70% of the screen. I've tried cleaning it, but my methods either didn't work or it's a hardware problem. I'd appreciate any help with this.

[Anonymous No.4044109]

>>3978661
Power board is fucked.

[Anonymous No.4044672]

>>4041743
Pretty cool although I don't get what his other SNES adapter is supose to do.

[Anonymous No.4045151]

>>4044672
it can convert RGBS to component if you do the pass through thing on that board. weird feature for sure, but pretty cool regardless, especially for the price.

[Anonymous No.4046282]

>>4045151
Weird

[Anonymous No.4046340]

So the nes has 2 pins that when connected with a resistor enables exppansion audio.

Here is the guide that shows this.
http://www.retrofixes.com/2014/05/open-hidden-sound-channels-in-nes.html

Would I then be able to use a everdrive N8 or power pak to play castlevania 3 with expansion audio?

[Anonymous No.4046357]

So I've been out of the scene for a while and I was wondering. Has a way been found to downgrade a ps3 through simple USB to make it able to jailbreak?

[Anonymous No.4046373]

>>4046340
Yes.

[Anonymous No.4046396]

>>4046357
nope still need an ancient ps3

[Anonymous No.4046418]

I'm looking to mod my SNES Jr. for RGB. From what I've read, the THS7374 is apparently the best RGB amp to use, but no one seems to have premade boards in stock (and I'm not confident enough with my surface-mount soldering skills to make my own). Does anyone know of a good source that has them in stock?

[Anonymous No.4046979]

>>4046418
If you can't solder SMD you certainly aren't going to make your own PCB to solder to. For prototyping I often use SMD->DIP adapter boards. This way you can put shit on a breadboard and move it around quickly and easily and design your PCB later. You might consider that and some perf board. I've made a ton of small run shit like that.

[Anonymous No.4046989]

>>4046979
I'm not talking about making a PCB. As I said, I want a premade one with all the components and stuff already on it, which I can then solder into my SNES. I just can't find anywhere that has them in stock, so I'm asking if you guys might know of a source for them that I'm unaware of that does have them in stock.

[Anonymous No.4047000]

>>4046989
I don't know why people cry about SMD all the time.
Anyways, this is prolly your best bet if you can't find a premade one
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/0v1eZKgw

[Anonymous No.4047002]

>finding out Brazilian TecToy Master Systems do not output RGB signals
>apparently they had to be modded in order to fit PAL-M model TVs
>the hack is so fucking whack that the AV port was re purposed as the power supply input

[Anonymous No.4047287]

>>4046989
My bad. Forgot what season it is.

[Anonymous No.4048223]

I have a ps1 and a ps2 analog controllers that have the same issue

d-pad and left shoulder buttons are dead
everything else works
what could be the most likely cause?
and how hard is it likely to be to fix?

>inb4 buy 'new' second hand controllers
I'd rather just repair anything busted

[Anonymous No.4048390]

This is a before pic, but I gave my old gameboy some retrobrite (actually used peroxide hair bleach), and it really cleaned it up nicely

[Anonymous No.4048447]

>>4044101

Update: tried cleaning it again a few times, but no change. I know it's not the AC adapter or the video cable, so would anyone like to help me fix this thing? Should I invest in a SNES Cleaning Kit, if it's a cleaning issue? I can find one for a decent price, so it wouldn't be too expensive for me.

[Anonymous No.4048601]

>>4048223
If you can't use a screw driver and open them on your own fixing the problem once you do get inside is gonna be very hard for you.

[Anonymous No.4048798]

>>4044101
Get a volt meter and look for broken traces

[Anonymous No.4049721]

>>4048601
that's the easy bit, making sure that a very clingy pet isn't going to mess everything up /run off with the parts and having nowhere to disassemble the thing otherwise, is the tricky part

in fairness , I like to get a rough idea of 'could be' to narrow it down a tad before embarking on full tear downs

[Anonymous No.4050368]

>>4049721
That's why most engineers are cat people

A few screws is hardly a "full tear down" but anyway...When everything works except one part it's usually a mechanical problem with that part. Could just need cleaning. Could be fucked up pads. For shoulder buttons I've seen a lot of broken mechanisms.

[Anonymous No.4050565]

>>4050368
>most engineers are cat people
that I can understand fully

>could just need cleaning / broken mechanisms

fair enough, thanks for the advice :)

[Anonymous No.4051403]

Still no one for >>4008989 ?

[Anonymous No.4052135]

>>4051403
It's been ages since I worked on one of these. From what I recall the analog part is located in the base. Might try opening that up and having a look.

[Anonymous No.4052161]

>>4052135
I already opened the base, but there's only the lock system and a metallic bar that that I have no idea of how to remove it.

[Anonymous No.4052230]

>>4052161
What do you mean by lock system. I thought the analog sensor was at the bottom of the bar. Could be confusing it with a different controller. Happy to take a look if you post a pic.

[Anonymous No.4052767]

I have to put the carts in my SNES in the prefect position before they load, which is just above them being pushed all the way in.

What can I do to solve this?

[Anonymous No.4052937]

>>4052767
Clean the cart and connectors.

[Anonymous No.4052990]

>>4052230
By locking system I mean the mechanism to keep the elevation angle of the steering wheel steady. The metallic bar is the one that keeps the rest of the steering wheel in the base and allows it to rotate vertically when the lock is unlocked.
It seems that there used to be 2 holes by the side of this metallic bar (so that they could place it there in the first place), but there are caps that keeps it in place and even after trying those don't seems to come out.

[Anonymous No.4053001]

>>4052990
'cause the photo isn't good enough to see that much here's an annotated version.

[Anonymous No.4053597]

>>3964369
Thinking of buying this.
Powers on but untested.
How easy are these things to fix should something be wrong? What is a good price for one?

[Anonymous No.4053606]

>>4053597
the famicom portion is almost guaranteed to be fine, every junk fami i've ever purchased has worked perfectly. the FDS portion is almost guaranteed to not work, and would need a new belt and to be calibrated which there are a million guides to do, but frankly the FDS is a pain in the ass in general. If you want a cool looking fc with native composite out, jt's a good choice, even if you don't fix the disk system. the problem is theyre heavy as hell, and expensive to ship from japan. additionally, everyone uses the 'FDS Stick' to play FDS games now since the drives are trash and the games are time bombs, and they need special cabling to work with a twin since you can't use the normal RAM adapter. it's one of the easily obtainable fc revisions I don't own simply because they're a little impractical, albeit very very cool.

[Anonymous No.4053608]

>>4053597
It's usually either caps, dirty/messed up contacts on the cart slot and most likely the disk drive is busted. All it probably needs is belt replacement, like 5$ off from japan and you can find tutorial on how to align the heads for standalone FDS. If I were you and wanted famicom, I'd get av famicom and FDStick, like >>4053606 said personally(since that disk drive can be pretty arduous job).

[Anonymous No.4053731]

Does anyone know how to repair a Dreamcast VMU screen with burned pixels? It has 2 rows that don't light horizontally and two vertically. I took it apart trying to fix it and all I did was cut the speaker cables.

[Anonymous No.4053742]

>>4053731
they're really cheap, you could just use the broken one as an 'MU' and buy a new VMU. Alternately, do a gameboy style thing if the screen is connected with a ribbon cable.

[Anonymous No.4053752]

>>4008989
check here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/shanemcretro/sets/72157672744665205

[Anonymous No.4053832]

>>4053742
The motherboard of the VMU has some rust on some of the pins that attach to the screen. The screen itself is removable, and if you put it back to the case fits perfectly with the motherboard. So I guess it's a matter of rust on the motherboard pins.

Here's how a VMU is on the inside:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkTXdmbwU20

[Anonymous No.4053890]

>>4053742
The pins on the left side are messed up. Other than that, it's working great. It saves alright. So I'll just use it as a memory card.

I can't seem to find any cheap VMUs where I am. This faulty one cost me 5 euros.

[Anonymous No.4054535]

I have been trying to rescue a copy of SMAS + World. But the circuit looks busted. Also the battery was poorly soldered and i had to remove it by force. The game has refused to load since the beggining. I have tried to clean the contacts, remove the oxide, so now the game looks like. After many tries i finally got this blue screen of garbage rather than the black screen. So my questions are:

1.do i need to install the battery first to check if that fixes the problem?
2.is conductive paint the best way to fix the circuit? or theres another way?

[Anonymous No.4054536]

>>4054535

[Anonymous No.4054537]

>>4054536

and here is the screen i finally got from the game. Is this hope, or is the game just mocking me?

[Anonymous No.4054572]

>>4054535
>>4054536
I don't think you need the battery in there for it to at least boot.

Check the traces just above the pins to make sure they're not cut. Going to need a multimeter. If they are cut, you're going to have to jump them.

Also, never tear a battery out like you did, unsolder it.

Better pictures of the front and back would help with close ups of the pins and the wear above them

[Anonymous No.4054596]

>>4054572

ok, thanks for your help. Tomorrow i will check for good the pins with natural light, because is hard to see well with the lamp. Also im sorry for what a did to that battery slot, but the thing was almost melting up there. If i can i will post images with better resolution.

[Anonymous No.4054690]

>>4053597
>Powers on but untested
That's ebay speak for the lights are on but no one is home. A good price is whatever you're willing to pay for broken shit.

>>4053731
>burned pixels
>obviously just a bad connection
Impossible to fix for a speaker cables cutter.

>>4054535
>i had to
No. No you didn't

[Anonymous No.4054939]

>>4054690
Yeah, I'm terrible at this repairing stuff. It was my first effort to "fix" something.
At least I got to clean it inside-out.

Anyone knows how I could extend the cut-off pins of the motherboard so the connect again? Maybe that would the screen work again.

I might try to find an electrical engineer to help me.

[Anonymous No.4054940]

>>4054939
so they* connect again

[Anonymous No.4054980]

>>4053597
Anytime someone says untested on ebay it means they absolutely did test it and found out shit's broken but still want the price of a fully working unit.

[Anonymous No.4055082]

>>4054536
Your photos look like shit and nobody could make out anything from that.
Anyways carefully look at all the traces on the board. If you think one might be damaged by corrosion or something else, check it with the multimeter and if it doesn't have continuity, bridge it with a jumper wire.
If you literally can't find anything, you could desolder the chips and see if any traces below the chips itself may be damaged.

As a be all, end all solution you could also desolder the maskroms and transplant them to another game with the same board.

[Anonymous No.4055158]

>>4054939
>"fix"
So lessons learned. Don't fix what ain't broken. Cleaning inside and out is for autists.
You mean extend/repair the speaker wires? That's easy. Just put more wire in. It won't fix the screen though. That came loose when you ladhandled it. Could be as easy as pushing down on the connections that came loose (crack). Could be more complicated.
>ee
kek

[Anonymous No.4057071]

>>4055158
What's wrong with electrical engineers?

[Anonymous No.4057876]

>>4057071
Nothing. The only thing wrong is a dingus who needs one to help him fix toys he broke due to massive levels of autism and retardation.

[Anonymous No.4058749]

This might be a dumb question but: can I play Super Famicom games on my SuperCIC moded PAL SNES without an adapter? To my knowledge there should be nothing physically stopping me from insterting a SFC cart into it, but I'm not sure about the pins.

[Anonymous No.4059056]

>>4058749
The pinout is the same, even the american cartridges use the same pinout, electrically speaking it will work. The cartridge may refuse to run at 50Hz PAL and instead show a piracy warning screen though.

[Anonymous No.4059064]

Not really a repair question but more of a general one. I bought a Sharp Twin Famicom, but will it work on a US CRT TV? I checked and my TV only has 24 channels and I read on some sites that you need to be on channel 92. Is that for all Japanese NES systems?

[Anonymous No.4059067]

>>4059064
Twin Famicom has composite video output.
No idea about RF though, sorry.

[Anonymous No.4059073]

>>4059064
Use composite if possible. Jap frequencies are higher than American frequencies and not exactly the same. Jap RF channels 1 and 2 are between like 92-93 and 93-94 respectively on American TVs and a lot of older TVs don't even go that high. Because the channels aren't exactly "92", "93" or "94" the channel might not come in completely and you might not get a good picture anyway.

[Anonymous No.4059084]

>>4059064
95 and 96 NTSC are generally what's used for 1-2 JP NTSC. You can use composite on the Twin Fami though. You could also use a VCR with a cable tuner (the VCR part doesn't even need to work) for Japanese RF only console if your TV doesn't have a cable tuner.

[Anonymous No.4059152]

>>4059056
That's where the 60 hz mod comes into play. Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.4059168]

>>4059073
>take advice from someone who doesn't know how tuners work.
No thanks

[Anonymous No.4060530]

Why does my Dreamcast keep asking for date and time despite it never getting unplugged?

[Anonymous No.4060539]

>>4060530
It's getting forgetful in its old age.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.4060552]

>>4060530
There's a battery inside that's used to keep the time and date; If it keep said information, that means the battery is dead.

You need to open it up and replace it, or just deal with having to constantly reenter it.

[Anonymous No.4060781]

How the fuck do I fix my old pal, /vr/? It's getting the required power, I used a spray to clean up the contacts, but nothing.

How should I proceed?

[Anonymous No.4060784]

>>4060781
There's no image whenever a cartdrige is plugged in.

[Anonymous No.4060794]

>>4060781
>How the fuck do I fix my old ntsc, /vr/?
ftfy

[Anonymous No.4060797]

>>4060781
>>4060784
Does the screen change at all when you turn it on? Do you own a multimeter? Do you have pictures of the PCB to share with us?

[Anonymous No.4060804]

>>4060794
Go to bed Australia.

[Anonymous No.4060806]

>>4060797
It's slightly different, but the having a cartdrige turned on doesn't change how it behaves. I do own a multimeter, and I'm afraid I'm ignorant about what pcb means.

[Anonymous No.4060808]

>>4060806
>>4060781
The light comes on and the screen changes?

[Anonymous No.4060809]

>>4060808
Yeah. Lemme see if I can make a webm about it.

[Anonymous No.4060819]

>>4060806
The PCB (printed circuit board) is the green thing that all the chips and stuff are stuck to. He's essentially asking whether it looks visibly damaged, like if it's covered in soda or has water damage/rust, or if the caps are leaking onto the board.

I suspect the cartridge slot is bent out of shape or the cartridges need to be cleaned.

[Anonymous No.4060823]

>>4060809
>>4060808
Well I guess you can't make shit from this.

[Anonymous No.4060829]

>>4060823
Put a game in the console and turn it on and wiggle the cartridge around a little. If you start seeing garbage graphics or hear music/sound effects try cleaning the contacts on the cartridge. If that doesn't work try (carefully) bending the individual pins in the cartridge slot up a little bit

[Anonymous No.4060834]

>>4060819
Gotcha covered my dude

1/2

[Anonymous No.4060836]

>>4060834
2/2

Don't really know what to make of it.

[Anonymous No.4060838]

>>3964369
Your entry on buffing CDs should be changed.
Toothpaste is TERRIBLE for CDs.

If you need to buff plastics, you should be using red or blue jeweler's rouge (red for deeper scratches, blue to give a mirror finish)

A bar of the stuff is like $6 and will last for over 2000 CDs.

You rub a little on a chamois or microfiber cloth and buff it til it shines.

I've rescued some very damaged discs with red rouge on a buffing wheel followed by hand buffing with blue. They look like new.

[Anonymous No.4060839]

>>4060836
See the thing circled in this pic?
That's the fuse on the SNES.
If you have a multimeter that can test for continuity (beeps when the leads are touched together), then touch the leads to both metal ends of the fuse.

If it beeps, it's good.
If it doesn't, the fuse is blown and that's why the console won't turn on.

this is a fairly common problem with the SNES, but you'll need to de-solder the old fuse and solder in a new one to fix it.

[Anonymous No.4060840]

>>4060834
>>4060836
Well, you're gonna need to do some disassembly so we can see the rest of that motherboard. The only things that really stand out from those photos is your cartridge slot's outside looks rusted as shit, and there appears to be bugshit inside the console, most likely from cockroaches, and that weird metal thing soldered in near the power switch. What the fuck is that thing? I've never seen that in an SNES before. Is it labeled in any way?

[Anonymous No.4060842]

>>4060834
>>4060836
The cartridge slot seems to be a little corroded and is soldered. (the removable type looks different)
Someone replaced the 21.477mhz crystal (near the power switch) with a bigger one.
Post a closeup of that, if that one doesn't work (oscillate at right frequency) then you won't get any picture.

[Anonymous No.4060848]

>>4060840
>that weird metal thing soldered in near the power switch. What the fuck is that thing? I've never seen that in an SNES before. Is it labeled in any way?

Not him, but that's a crystal oscillator.
It should be 21.4772MHz, and it shouldn't be just flapping in the breeze like that.

Oscillators vibrate when powered, so when they're just out in the open like that, they can, over years of use, actually vibrate right out of their solder.

Also, as the crystals get older, they become less accurate. Unless he has a clock crystal tester, it might be cheaper to just replace it to be safe, and put some hot glue on it to keep it from vibrating freely.

[Anonymous No.4060850]

>>4060829
Tried, lord how I tried.

>>4060840
>>4060842
That's fucking nasty, gotta check what's going on, then. Stay with me my dudes, gotta do some disassembly, be right back

[Anonymous No.4060859]

>>4060839
or just bridge it with a wire, I do it all the time

[Anonymous No.4060892]

>>4060859
>bridging a fuse

[Anonymous No.4061051]

Hey nerds, I dug up my old N64 from my parents' closet and I'm having some difficulties.

Plugging it in and turning it on yields no signal at all. The red light on the front turns on, and I can hear some soft, high-pitched sound from the system, but my TV says "no signal" (I'm using a set of AV cables from my GCN, which I'm told works fine on N64 and SNES as well). Is my N64 broken, or is there something I can do?

Also, the cables work fine with the Gamecube, so I don't think those are the culprit.

[Anonymous No.4061126]

>>4061051
If you're using an HDTV, it may not support low-res 240p video. Try an older HDTV, or a CRT before purchasing anything.

[Anonymous No.4061127]

>>4061051
To follow that, Gamecube outputs at twice the resolution the N64 does, and will be compatible with newer TVs, so it's probably your TV not liking the N64.

[Anonymous No.4061148]

>>4060823
>Well I guess you can't make shit from this.
Given the change in effect from unsynced refresh, it is at least trying to send a signal to the tv. That's something.

[Anonymous No.4061151]

>>4060840
>>4060842
Ok my dudes, check this shit out.
I re did the soldering after removing the shitty fuse that someone put in.
After that I cleaned up everything being extra careful, using that spray, and something that will make you guys go bananas

[Anonymous No.4061152]

>>4061151
Before that, that's the crystal

[Anonymous No.4061156]

>>4061151
>>4061152
Check this shit out, it's tiny little conductive leg is standing up like when I crept into my mothers room when I was little

Is it supposed to be like that?

[Anonymous No.4061160]

>>4061156
One more pic of the chip I'm talking about. I don't think I have the skill to repair it.

How in the name of fuck did that happen? Also, can someone get me info on this chip?

[Anonymous No.4061217]

>>4061151
Why the fuck did you do that?
The LED lit up before meaning that this fuse was okay.

>>4061152
>21.53666mhz
>not 21.47727mhz
A slight increase in the CPU clock would caused that Earthworm Jim 2 wouldn't play half the sound effects, just like ZSNES as that game is sensitive to the timing ratio between the CPU and audio subsystem.
It would probably cause other games to fail or crash as well.
Also the color subcarrier frequency would be raised as well, means that the TV could fail to display color on RF/composite/S-Video.

Whoever replaced that crystal was an idiot.

>>4061156
>>4061160
Nope, someone permanently disabled the CIC to be able to run PAL carts.
This could cause SA-1 and S-DD1 games to fail (like Super Mario RPG and Kirby Super Star).

Get a 21.47727mhz crystal, solder that leg down, put the fuse back and clean the shit out of it.

[Anonymous No.4061236]

>>4061217
>Why the fuck did you do that?
>The LED lit up before meaning that this fuse was okay.

I'm fucking retarded, that's why. Gotta put it back asap

>A slight increase in the CPU clock would caused that Earthworm Jim 2 wouldn't play half the sound effects, just like ZSNES as that game is sensitive to the timing ratio between the CPU and audio subsystem.

Shit, my dude, thank you very much, gotta get a crystal, then.

>Nope, someone permanently disabled the CIC to be able to run PAL carts.

My heart is broken, this poor snes.

I still don't think I have the skill to repair it.

Gonna put the fuse back, then search for the 21.47727 crystal, and see if it works, then.

I'll keep you guys informed.

[Anonymous No.4061246]

>>4061217
Not the guy you quoted but

>Also the color subcarrier frequency would be raised as well, means that the TV could fail to display color on RF/composite/S-Video.

Composite = AV? The red, yellow and white plugs?

[Anonymous No.4061329]

>>4061151
>bridging the fuse

NO!
The SNES is sensitive to shocks and surges! You NEED a fuse there.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/blown-snes-fuse-repair/

Do the alternative fuse repair at the bottom.
Solder in fuse holders and use replaceable 1.5amp glass fuses.

[Anonymous No.4061350]

>>4061329
Put it back already my man, sorry for being retarded.

[Anonymous No.4061728]

>>4061126
>>4061127
I don't think the resolution is the issue here. I own a Samsung LN-S2738D, which is a fairly old HDTV, but it plays my NES and SNES games from my FC Twin just fine. Those are also 240p, aren't they?

[Anonymous No.4061763]

>>4061728
In that case you are correct, it could very well be your console.

[Anonymous No.4061804]

>>4061728
Hey can my tv not like my Snes for some reason, given that both the Gamecube AND N64 work flawlessly?

[Anonymous No.4061813]

>>4061804
Yes. Between a too-high refresh rate and non-constant line durations, SNES and NES have a very strange video signal that some digital TVs can't cope with.

[Anonymous No.4061819]

>>4061813
Oh, but, like in, old crt tvs, could that happen too?

I'm >>4061160 and am trying to fix it, if my tv might not recognize my snes that would be way more difficult.

[Anonymous No.4061820]

>>4061819
Shouldn't be a problem for CRT TVs.

[Anonymous No.4062930]

Does anyone have a clue of what might cause this kind of distortion to the screen of a GBC?

You can see right in the center of the screen some kind of bubble on the LCD. I just noticed this one, showed up out of nowhere but isn't the first time. The second one also began with one of those small bubbles but as you can see from the webm, it became awful. I'm afraid the same will happen to the other GBC and I have no clue what it is.
They are kept in a dry place away from sunlight, for what's worth.

[Anonymous No.4062937]

>>4062930
Excessive pressure in storage and/or high temperatures is what is suspect. I'm a bit confused as well, though.

[Anonymous No.4062946]

Has anyone here modded a SNES Advantage to use arcade buttons and sticks?

Hate teh feeling of them. I have 2 laying around and I want to put it to use.

>one with 4 push buttons for directions
>one with a traditional stick.

[Anonymous No.4062956]

>>4062937
Those would also be my main concerns too, but they were kept 100% of the time away from the sun (or anywhere where they could get hot) and with nothing on top of them.
I bought both from Japan and both were fine when they arrived. When it happened to the first one I just assumed I had bad luck. Then it started on that second one too.

[Anonymous No.4062980]

>>4062930

[Anonymous No.4063298]

>>4062930
falcon pawnch

[Anonymous No.4063645]

>>3964369
I own a PAL version of Yoshi's Island. Can this be made to run at 60Hz?

e.g. if I mod my PAL console, or if I get a Super Famicom?

[Anonymous No.4063653]

Im having a problem with a SNES jr. Console only loads a game after much jiggling, and after that, the game starts up for 3 seconds and then the console shuts down. So, i guess the pin connector is failing. I cleaned it plenty of times, but still doesnt work. Should i try to remove the pin connector and replace it? If so, someone has a good tutorial video to do it? Thank you very much.

[Anonymous No.4063670]

>>3964369
What's the most fucked you've ever seen a semi working console? For me personally was a super nintendo which had a cartridge stuck in the slot and the cartidge looked like it was sawed in half. Not sure how it happened.

[Anonymous No.4063671]

>>4063645
There is a chance that a sfc mod will do the trick, although it tends to have issues with super fx games.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/snes-5060hz-switch-with-lockout-switch/

[Anonymous No.4063684]

>>4063653
Id check the traces around the pin connector witth a volt meter before replacing it outright.

[Anonymous No.4063690]

>>4063684

ok, gonna check that out first. Thanks

[Anonymous No.4065814]

Not sure if this fits here, but I think it's better to ask in this thread than start a new one.

I bought a reproduction cart of Earthbound, but trying to put it in my SNES Jr., I find it doesn't fit. I've compared it to another, legit cartridge I own, and everything looks the same, aside from the pins being slightly thicker on the reproduction. I could try to fit it in, after all it might just fit better over time, but I'm worried of damaging either the cartridge or my console.

Pic related.

>Left = Earthbound Reproduction
>Right = ActRaiser legit

[Anonymous No.4065820]

>>4065814
>slightly thicker
That looks almost twice as thick.

[Anonymous No.4065845]

>>3964369
How would I apply a header to a ROM? I want to play Terranigma at 60Hz but the patch requires a header

[Anonymous No.4065932]

>>4065814
Looks like whichever tard produced or commissioned that board to be produced made it too thick.
Reminds me of people trying to jam in their game genie into a top loader. It will definitely damage the connector in your console because it'll bend the pins inside of it outwards making it no longer read legit thinner games.
Depending on where you got it from I'd try to get a refund.
>>4065845

http://www.romhacking.net/utilities/400/

[Anonymous No.4066327]

I don't know if this goes here but here goes: I got an EZ Flash IV (the newest release) around a month ago. It worked fine, I played it a bunch. I updated to the new firmware the other day (not sure if that's related) and it still worked fine for a couple of days.

Today, I was playing SRW OG2 and it froze mid-game. I turned it back on and tried to boot the game again, but it loaded to a white screen. I tried other games, including known working games, and they're all white screening. I've tried reflashing the firmware and reformatting the Micro SD. Any advice?

[Anonymous No.4066386]

>>4066327
Following on from this I tried it with a different micro SD card, tried different folder structures and updated to 2.0.1 and nothing has changed.

I decided to try writing a game to NOR to see if that worked. This is what I got. It's alternating between T1/T2, which look like hexadecimal numbers that are slowly increasing. Is this an error or did they forget to format the NOR flash progress text in the new update?

[Anonymous No.4066713]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-FAMICOM-AV-Module-for-your-Famicom-system-with-3-5-Port-cable-as-free-gift-/272684379815?hash=item3f7d416ea7:g:A4MAAOSw2GlXFZnj
How is easy is "even a child could do it"?
Has anyone done this mod, if I were buying a soldering iron and it was my first project ever what do you think my % of success will be?

[Anonymous No.4066732]

>>4066713
It's a drop in replacement for the RF modulator+power board. You just desolder the ribbon cable from the original board and solder that board in its place. Not very difficult if you're familiar with soldering/desoldering. You should always practice soldering/desoldering components on an old DVD player or something you do not care about before you try doing it on something of value.

[Anonymous No.4066748]

>>4066732
That sounds really simple. I was looking up some videos on youtube of people with different kits that required them to remove pins from things and solder lots of extra stuff to the board.

[Anonymous No.4066753]

So I found my old copy of Pokemon Silver today, probably hasn't been turned on since about 2004 or so. I know that the batteries in GSC cartridges tend to die out relatively quickly by Game Boy standards due to the real-time clock, but I can't seem to get a clear answer on what exactly the battery dying does. Does it delete your save entirely, or will it just prevent the cartridge from being able to save data from then on? In other words, I haven't fired it up yet, but will I be able to back up my old save, or is it lost to the void?

[Anonymous No.4066774]

>>4066753
The battery provides continually charge to the ram where the game is saved. Once the battery is dead, the save gets erased because it's not supplied the power anymore.

[Anonymous No.4066782]

>>4066748
That board just does all of that stuff for you but it's basically the same as those mods. I can't really vouch for it but it *looks* legit. The video circuit isn't very complex and neither is the power circuit so there's not much they can really fuck up here.

http://www.retrogarden.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/famicomDisassembly10.jpg

That little white circuit board at the top of the famicom motherboard is what that board replaces apparently. You disconnect the ribbon cable from the original board and swap in the new board with composite.

[Anonymous No.4066809]

>>4066748
heads up, there's a number of board revisions of the famicom and a few pre-built mods like you're seeing, make sure you get the right one. The seller whose pic you posted should have multiple versions available.

[Anonymous No.4066818]

>>4066809
>>4066782
Thanks. Sent a message asking if it worked with the model HVC-002.

[Anonymous No.4067007]

>>4066713
Seller obviously incorrectly assumes this child knows how to user a screw driver and soldering iron?

[Anonymous No.4067882]

>>4066713
Soldering is easy but "so easy a child could do it" is kind of bullshit, especially when you'll presumably be using a cheap uncontrolled line voltage iron.

>>4066753
Your save is fukt and the cart won't retain any new saves. There is room in a GB/C cart for a slim form factor battery holder though, so even if you can't bring back the save you could resurrect the cart for future use and make battery swaps easy. In the future if a battery swap is fast enough the SRAM will probably be preserved, though a backup would still be better.

[Anonymous No.4068649]

>>4063670
Probably that Gameboy that got dropped off a bridge. The guy found it, turned it on, and it still worked. Took a picture and sent it in to Nintendo Power. I wanna say somewhere between issue 18 and 30? There was another GB that had gone through a fire, looked like baked bread. Still turned on and barely worked.

[Anonymous No.4068738]

I bought this Sega Arcade Stick a while back and it was brand new in box.
It did look new like it had never been used, and it worked great for about a week.
After that it some of the buttons stopped working and eventually they all stopped.

My first time taking it apart, it has been sitting gathering dust for a while. On the board there are two soldering points that look like they have some kind of dust Halo around them near the bottom switch.

Could the cord be bad and maybe I could swap it out with a different controllers cable?

The seller said no returns or refunds.

[Anonymous No.4068860]

>>4068738
someone's been inside there and re soldered a lot of pads. the halo is a scorch mark from the heal burning off the dust and thin surface coating on the PCB. if it dosnt work it guess a loose connection. u can try re floating his solder work. it actually looks really shit, i can leave it looking a lot cleaner than whatever lazy fuck did that.

[Anonymous No.4068945]

>>4068738
Looks absolutely filthy. Could be that or just broken cheap shit.

[Anonymous No.4069076]

Finally decided to open up my SNES advantage.

Anyone modded one before? I'm finding it damn hard to find any info on it, everyone seems to mod the NES advantage.

[Anonymous No.4069105]

>>4069076
might as well padhack a regular controller if that's what you're thinking.

[Anonymous No.4069113]

>>4069105
>might as well padhack a regular controller if that's what you're thinking.

I was but I also want the features of the advantage.

Maybe I'll just find a junky turbo controller instead. I'm really surprised theres so little information on modding since it would be a great candidate.

[Anonymous No.4069289]

>>4069113
It is a great candidate for modding. It could really do with a new case, stick, buttons and pcb. The cable is OK I guess.

[Anonymous No.4069516]

A couple weeks back someone was asking for a dump of an old game doctor bios. I wasn't able to dig them out of storage before the thread 404d and I don't remember which one was he was looking for. I'm pretty sure it was one of these. Anyway they're sitting in my workshop now if someone's still looking for that dump.

[Anonymous No.4070795]

Any thoughts on the AC adapter provided by the common ebay sellers for super famicom? Should I just try to find an original?

I had video interference issues with a 3rd party SNES one many years ago.

[Anonymous No.4070840]

>>4070795
No reason to use an original adapter in the US in current year. Any decent 9V 850-1000mA center pin negative PSU will do the trick, the ones in the eBay auctions are probably better than the one you had years ago. Original adapters work fine, but get rather hot and need to be unplugged when not in use.

[Anonymous No.4070849]

>>4070795
All the third-party ones I've tried give video interference. A North American Model 1 Genesis AC adapter works fine though.

Personally, I had a bunch of original North American SNES AC adapters with damaged cords, so I soldered a new a cord to one of them and used a standard 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug at the end. I use it for both my Famicom and Super Famicom.

[Anonymous No.4070912]

I have a PSOne with the portable screen that only displays red/black. The only information I could find was I need to reconnect the ribbon cable?

[Anonymous No.4071086]

>>4070912
Check to be sure it doesn't say virtual boy on it.
Could be the ribbon cable. Could have come unplugged. Could be cracked. As frequently is the case in repair threads the screwdriver is your friend.

[Anonymous No.4071340]

>>4068738
Somebody fucked with that. There's no way that solder work is factory.

[Anonymous No.4072102]

>>4070840
Anyone reading this anon's advice should know many of the chinese PSU's you see aren't actually capable of producing what they are rated for. I've seen more than a few that claimed to be able to put out 12V, but couldn't produce more than 9V when I took my multi-meter to it at load. This might not be a problem if you are just playing basic games with no special setup. If you are using an flashcart or otherwise causing the system to draw more power than usual, these shitty PSU's will fail, since they aren't really to spec. If you aren't using OEM, you should try to stick to major brand names for 3rd party shit. Don't get the generic ones from China.

[Anonymous No.4072107]

>>4068738
>dat workmanship

[Anonymous No.4072118]

>>4072102
What console are you using that takes 12V? 9V adapters don't really have any issue hitting their spec. Using 30 year old PSUs designed for a different input voltage is just wasting power and generating heat. The only console I use the original adapter for is a PC Engine Interface Unit CD-ROM rig, because it needs like 14V 1450mA and has an odd sized barrel. I use Chinese supplies for my Famicom and Super Famicom with EverDrives and they work great, I've been using the same adapters for close to 10 years. Newer adapters are even better.

[Anonymous No.4072175]

>>4070849
I wouldn't blindly trust any original one as well though.
They're getting pretty old by now and they do seem to go 'off' over time.
For instance I have an old original Famicom PSU that should as we all know output 9V DC to fit the specs of the Famicom.
By now the thing outputs constant 16V though. The voltage regulator can still handle that but it definitely puts more strain on it than the regular 9V. That's why I'd first check old power supplies with a multimeter to see if they're still good.

[Anonymous No.4072273]

Welp I just ordered an RGB kit and scart cable for my Vader Atari 2600. Gonna add an LED power indicator light and RCA jacks, too.

One thing I'm going to do a bit different though is that I'm not going to use a 3.5mm jack for the audio. I ordered a custom SCART cable with RCA jacks for audio on the console end, because I was terrified that someone someday might plug the DC power jack into the audio port and ruin something. Call me paranoid but I think my setup will also be cleaner looking and a bit less hackey, with the RGB port next to the standard RCA jacks.

[Anonymous No.4072752]

>>4072273
sounds pretty sweet, anon, other than the LED that is. And you could always swap the power jack for a standard barrel one.

[Anonymous No.4072919]

2 questions;

1) Does a Super Famicom require any mods to be able to play an SD2SNES with NTSC ROMs on it?

2) Can a PAL SNES cartridge be made to run at 60Hz somehow?

[Anonymous No.4072953]

>>4072919
>1) Does a Super Famicom require any mods to be able to play an SD2SNES with NTSC ROMs on it?
No. The hardware is essentially identical other than the shape of the cartridge slot.
>2) Can a PAL SNES cartridge be made to run at 60Hz somehow?
It's the console that needs to be modded, not the cartridge. But be aware that some PAL games had timing changes in their code to compensate for 50 Hz, so if you run those games at 60 Hz they'll be faster than the NTSC version.

[Anonymous No.4073006]

>>4072953
thanks, specifically I have Yoshi's Island PAL version. If I play it on a 60Hz console that accepts PAL carts, will it be okay?

[Anonymous No.4073018]

>>4072953
Regarding number two, you are assuming the given game is not optimized for PAL whatsoever which many games on the SNES actually were, especially first party games.
That doesn't essentially mean it won't run at all but it most likely won't work without problems.
Dunno of any good examples for PAL on NTSC but NTSC Mario World on PAL SNES has some pretty crazy flickering on the top half ingame.

[Anonymous No.4073025]

>>4073006
Don't know about that particular game, but I know several other Nintendo-developed games are optimized for PAL to at least some extent (SMW, Mario Kart, Super Metroid), so it wouldn't surprise me if Yoshi's Island is as well.

[Anonymous No.4073031]

>>4073018
thanks, you seem pretty knowledgeable;

Do you think it's better to mod a PAL SNES for 60Hz or buy a Super Famicom?

[Anonymous No.4073048]

>>4073031
Get the SFC. They're cheap, and there are a few NTSC games that are known to have issues when run on a modded PAL SNES (SMRPG is one, I believe there are others as well).

[Anonymous No.4073065]

>>4072102
Anyone reading this anon's advice should know many of the chinese PSU's you see are perfectly capable of producing what they are rated for. I'm not sure if anon is parroting some other kid on the internet or whether he actually plugged a 300ma 12v PSU into a console and took measurements. Since he doesn't understand that PSUs are rated in power which is a function of amps and volts I'm guessing he's not able to run the tests himself and would likely be a danger to himself and others if allowed to play with the sharp pointy leads of a multimeter.
There are shitty PSUs but for the most part the problem is this sort of ignorance. A 12v 300ma PSU will give you 2.4 volts if you draw 1500ma, if it doesn't just burn out. Unless the Chinese created the laws of physics this just isn't their fault.

[Anonymous No.4073069]

>>4073031
Yeah, I'd go for the SFC as well.
As >>4073048 mentioned there can arise problems. For instance later revision SA1 games not booting without modifying the games' PCB is one problem.
Pretty sure the switchless super CIC fixes most problems you could run into but i'd still take the SFC over that.

[Anonymous No.4073087]

>>4073069
>Pretty sure the switchless super CIC fixes most problems you could run into but i'd still take the SFC over that.
Assuming I could get the SuperCIC mod, why would a SFC still be superior?
Only reason I ask is that I kinda like the idea of being able to use MY old SNES. On that note, could I put the casing of my SNES around the guts of a SFC?

[Anonymous No.4073104]

>>4072752
I might change the power jack at some point, although if I do I'll need to change it on both the system and the adapter. I always despised that Atari used a 3.5mm audio jack for the system's power, but I'll have to find something that fits.

The power LED is something that's always been a pet peeve of mine on certain older hardware units that don't have them. I know some people feel it disrupts the authenticity of the system but I don't think they look out of place. I added one to my C64's power supply unit when I rebuilt it and I think it turned out well.

[Anonymous No.4073520]

>>4073087
You should be fine with just the super CIC if you really wanna stay on your SNES honestly.

[Anonymous No.4073767]

>>4073104
that's on the PSU, not on the console though. I mean do whatever you'd like anon, just please don't use a blue one.

[Anonymous No.4073779]

>>4073767
I know, blue LEDs look retarded on retro machines. It's just going to be a basic red one and I've even got a nice little bezel for it.

[Anonymous No.4073873]

Any good places in Australia that do the SuperCIC mod for SNES?

>>4073520
thanks

[Anonymous No.4074582]

>>4073873
This is the repair thread.
Learn soldering if you don't already and do it yourself.

[Anonymous No.4074993]

>>4073779
fair enough my friend. make sure you upload pics, especially curious about the SCART connector

[Anonymous No.4075641]

I was just talking to an eBay modder who claimed that if you have an older 2-chip SNES, you can't actually mod it to be 1-chip.

He also said that 1-chip is not necessarily superior as it can have issues with ghosting and brightness compared to 2-chip.

Is he telling the truth?

[Anonymous No.4075643]

>>4075641
>I was just talking to an eBay modder who claimed that if you have an older 2-chip SNES, you can't actually mod it to be 1-chip.
What kind of confusion led you to believe that could be possible?

[Anonymous No.4075649]

>>4075641
Yes. The brightness issue is easily fixed, though. More importantly, a small number of games have graphical glitches with 1chip consoles, but again, it's not really a big deal. I would take a 1chip over an earlier model all day every day.

[Anonymous No.4075654]

>>4075643
it figured it could be achieved with some soldering. good to know i don't need to bother with it

[Anonymous No.4075691]

>>4075654
The 1chip SNES is an entire board revision. That would be akin to trying to take an original Gameboy and turn it into a Gameboy Pocket.

[Anonymous No.4075698]

>>4075691
Even harder than that, actually. The 1chip architecture is so radically different that by the time you've modified a 3chip board to take an S-CPUN, you've pretty much just built a new board from scratch.

[Anonymous No.4075764]

>>4075698
Yup. As the name would imply the 1CHIP uses a different chipset because Nintendo considated many of the functions onto a single chip. Even if you could (hypothetically) modify the SNES's board to accomodate the new chip (which you can't), it's not like you can just go on Mouser and order one. It was a proprietary chip and has been out of production for decades.

[Anonymous No.4075772]

>>4075764
so is my 2chip snes trash-worthy or is it still redeemable?

[Anonymous No.4075773]

>>4075772
There's nothing wrong with the 2chip SNES. The 1chip just has better image quality over an RGB connection.

[Anonymous No.4075778]

>>4075773
i was planning to use my 2chip model over an RGB connection until i heard I had the 'inferior' model. Not sure if my 'tism can handle it

[Anonymous No.4075789]

>>4075778
The 2chip is not bad. I own a 2chip and a 1chip and the 1chip does have better image quality, but it's not like a 2chip looks bad. It all depends on how important that bit of extra clarity is to you. If you want a 1chip you're probably going to have to pay eBay prices, which is why for most people I'd say a 2chip is just fine.

[Anonymous No.4076651]

>>4075778
On a CRT it's not that bad, since CRTs have a soft picture by nature anyway.

Now, if you're a heathen like me and want to play on an HDTV through an upscaler, I'd definitely recommend picking up a 1chip. I couldn't stand the smeared picture of my 3chip. Easiest way is to get an SNS-101 (SNES 2/Jr./Mini), since those are guaranteed to be 1chip. You have to mod them for RGB, but it's a simple procedure.

[Anonymous No.4076656]

I was playing Wonderboy In Monsterland on my Everdrive x7, and now for some reason it auto launches that game only.

When I turn on my Genesis I see the main Everdrive menu but it immediately boots to Wonder Boy before I can press anything.

I've had it for about a month and it has never done anything like this.

[Anonymous No.4076751]

A couple more questions to gain absolute clarity;

Does the SuperCIC mod introduce timing/sync issues like some of those other 60Hz mods?

Does a Super Famicom with SuperCIC mod still have perfect 60Hz, identical to an unmodded Super Senpai?

Will a PAL cart of Yoshi's Island work at 60Hz on a Super Senpai, or would it be glitchy due to 50Hz optimisations made?

>>4076651
I'm open to getting a SNES Jr, but I think I prefer the original Super Senpai design, and from what I can tell most of them are some variant of the 1-chip design

[Anonymous No.4077515]

I'll just post a quick silly doubt I have here: does the original Nintendo AV cable that works for SNES, N64 and GC makes any difference or I'm fine using any of the generic and cheaper ones?

[Anonymous No.4077523]

>>4077515
Composite is shit no matter what, so just use whatever. For S-video, either get an original Nintendo cable or an aftermarket one with no composite video line.

[Anonymous No.4078068]

>>4026773
They put nicd rechargable batteries to hold the save data, but they leak everywhere and corrode the board. You'll probably need to desolder the battery, scrub off the corrosion with vinegar, and repair any broken traces.

[Anonymous No.4078394]

>>4077515
>>4077523
Chinese 3rd party composite cables have no discernable difference to OEM ones.

If possible get OEM just because of general build quality, but 3rd party ones aren't so bad. I often use them to complete loose consoles.

[Anonymous No.4079250]

>>4026773
What would an old copper be under on ebay?