Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.3541503]

What are you working on?

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Remember to clean your games, consoles, and controllers regularly!
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

[Anonymous No.3541509]

>>3541503
Anyone have any experience with one of these? I was going to mod my NES to allow the Famicom extra sound channels for VRC chips and whatnot, but this seems like a better route almost. Not only would it do that, but it would allow me to use Famicom accessories too... Thoughts? They're for sale on this site:

http://www.nintendorepairhut.com/accessories/nintendonesaccessories.html

For 20 bucks.

[Anonymous No.3541745]

I bought a replacement screen cover (whatever it's called) for my GBC. I was very dilligent about making sure that no dust or anything was inside of it before putting it on, yet there's little dust/hair particles in it anyway. Is there any way to get them out without replacing it again? How do I avoid this in the future considering that I took every precaution and used a can of air and close visual inspection before putting it on?

[Anonymous No.3542596]

I just replaced the battery in my Legend of Zelda and played for a bit without issue.

I woke up today and the save file was just gone. It stayed in the NES over night.

Did I put the battery in backwards?

[Anonymous No.3543037]

Have a dead Sega CD model 2. The laser is obviously on, but the spindle won't spin. Running +3V across the motor makes it spin. Am I looking at a dead motor controller?

[Anonymous No.3543553]

>>3542596
Did you hit reset before turning it off?

[Anonymous No.3543557]

>>3543037
Check to see if the laser is hitting the switch to start the spindle. Most likely its dirty and needs to be cleaned and adjusted. They're just two pieces of copper in a plastic sheath

[Anonymous No.3543575]

I have two questions for you guys, help with either would be much appreciated.

First, I got a Colecovision a while back. It's big issue is that the picture cuts out after a certain amount of time, but even up until then I'll usually gwt a rolling image. A lot of old guides I've found reccomended replacing or relubricating the switch, but it hasn't seemed to help. Does anyone have experience with repairs on this console?

Secondly, I know it isn't retro, but my Wavebird for Gamecube stopped working entirely. It refuses to turn on. I've disassembled and cleaned it. I'm thinking it's likely the capacitor on this one, from dissassembling my working one. Any other suggestions as to problems ir anyone has had something similar?

[Anonymous No.3543584]

>>3541745
clean your work area before hand
unfortunately i think you'll be taking it off again though

[Anonymous No.3543672]

They say you have to use water with Mr. Clean magic eraser (micro abrasive sponge).

What happens if you don't use water? Will it damage the surface, damage the eraser, or just make the work go slower?

[Anonymous No.3545554]

bump

[Anonymous No.3545637]

>>3541745
Do it inside the bathroom after a shower. Just make sure it's not so humid it might damage some electric comments.

[Anonymous No.3545775]

The SNES AC adapter is supposed to supply 10V but when I put my multimeter to it I get a reading of 14V.

Is this because the lower draw of the multimeter causes the voltage to be higher and the under the load of the SNES it will be 10V?

Or is the AC adapter failing? What happens when an AC adapter fails? Does it give more volts, less volts, or simply let the full 120V alternating current through?

[Anonymous No.3546357]

>>3545775
>Is this because the lower draw of the multimeter causes the voltage to be higher and the under the load of the SNES it will be 10V?
Pretty much. Plus there's a 7805 inside the SNES that will drop it down to spec. I've got an official Sega brick for the Genesis, it's supposed to output 9V. I see up to 16V coming out of it without being under load. This is normal.

[Anonymous No.3546507]

Is there a good resource available that rates the genesis/MD revisions in terms of picture and sound?

For instance if I see one up for sale, and it's model XXXXX, I can tell before buying that it has good audio but maybe minor jailbars in the video, etc.

[Anonymous No.3547458]

I notice a few cheap bootlegs online but they lack save functionality. Can I desolder the rom on the fake game and solder it onto a donor game that has a battery?

[Anonymous No.3547470]

>>3546507
http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?7796-GUIDE-Telling-apart-good-Genesis-1s-and-Genesis-2s-from-bad-ones

[Anonymous No.3547557]

>>3547458
Bootlegs mostly likely use globtops, non-standard layouts and or chips, so its mostly likely impossible.

So its better to buy legit game, flashcart or deal with no saving.

[Anonymous No.3548062]

I got a 3DO FZ-1 but it doesn't seem to read discs. Access lights up when the tray is closed, then you hear a few small tics and it just look like it's stuck there, the Access light doesn't up either afterwards.

[Anonymous No.3548234]

>>3548062
Decided to open it up and found this capitator, haveing some grayish stuff at the bottom. Might his cause my problem?

[Anonymous No.3548235]

>>3547458
If you have to ask that question, then the answer is no.

[Anonymous No.3548517]

Does the SFC follow the same 2CHIP - 1CHIP - MINI release pattern that the USA SNES does? Do all of the non-mini models output RGB?

Also, are there any good USA SNES to SFC cart converters that aren't rare as heck? The NES to famicom and vice versa guys are super common.

[Anonymous No.3548521]

>>3548517
>Also, are there any good USA SNES to SFC cart converters that aren't rare as heck?
It's just a passthrough board. The SFC and SNES use the exact same cartridge slot and pinout. Hence why you can play SFC games on a SNES just by filing off the tabs on the plastic over the cartridge slot. The reason they aren't common is because most people just file off the tabs.

[Anonymous No.3548531]

>>3543557
the pickup is moving up and down, so the lid sensor is definitely passing the signal on OK

[Anonymous No.3548539]

>>3548521
Yeah, I've been doing that. But it's not so easy the other way around, the SNES carts actually don't fit into the curved SFC slot.

[Anonymous No.3548568]

>>3547458
No, I've bought a fair amount of those cheap ass bootlegs. They definitely do use gloptops and there's no way to add SRAM to them.

[Anonymous No.3548986]

>>3548539
Buy a super ufo pro 8. It's a decent flash cart and works as a pass thru adapter. They can be had for around $45.

[Anonymous No.3549163]

Super close to stripping a head of a screw on this genesis controller im trying to fix.

Do I need one of those stripped-screw kits (tap & die or something) ? Or can I just do something crazy (like super-glue my screwdriver end into the screw, then twist after drying) ?

The amount of torque on the screw seems very low, so could an insane solution work?

[Anonymous No.3549194]

>>3548986
looks neat, can you dump carts?

[Anonymous No.3549202]

>>3549163
I have about a 50/50 success rate drilling the heads of stripped screws off and then using pliers to screw out the rest after opening the controller. About half the time it works well, but the other half I end up cracking the post.

[Anonymous No.3549208]

>>3549163
I've had luck with the super glue method with opening up broken monitors. Got a pack of like 80 shitty bits from walmart for like 5 bucks so it isn't a big deal sacrificing them.

[Anonymous No.3550196]

>>3549194
Yeah that's what it was originally made for.

[Anonymous No.3550208]

Anyone know any online stores like AliExpress that sell plastic shells? I'd like one for my SNES.

[Anonymous No.3550320]

>decide to finally change battery in pokemon crystal
>whip out soldering iron
>accidentally drip solder on to one of the chips
>It's all over the pins
>can't get it off
>doesn't work anymore

Fuck everything

[Anonymous No.3550331]

>>3550208
where do you live? stone age gamer (US) sells them, and their label design is pretty tight, but I personally don't care for their caveman logo.

[Anonymous No.3550682]

What advantages are there to buying a consolized MVS, other than the price of games?

[Anonymous No.3550687]

>>3550320
GB and GBC batteries are no where near the chips, what the fuck didjha do?

[Anonymous No.3551418]

>>3550331
Canada, and sorry I was exhausted when I typed that. I meant the plastic casing. Not game protectors.

[Anonymous No.3551474]

>>3550320
Get some desoldering wick and mop it up

[Anonymous No.3551505]

>>3550682
>to buying a consolized MVS
Advantages of buying consolized MVS compared to building your own or buying AES? Or Neo Geo CD?

[Anonymous No.3551528]

tried unfucking a N64 analog controlle joy stick

fucked it up

still have 3 more controllers to try again

[Anonymous No.3551580]

>>3550320

In the future, try getting some flux, running a whole bunch of it over the messy area, then just go over it with the hot soldering iron. It might be worth trying, but if you powered it on with bridged pins, depending on which ones you have bridged you might have fried something.

[Anonymous No.3551585]

>>3551418
What's with you people and apologizing

[Anonymous No.3551601]

Anyone knows the typical values of the ceramic capacitors on NES carts?

[Anonymous No.3551774]

How does one replace a disc spindle?

[Anonymous No.3551839]

>>3551505
buying aes

[Anonymous No.3552838]

>>3547470
This is really nice, but where do I get some based sega nerd telling me which of these chips are good and which aren't?

eg, am I missing certain audio channels or some aspect of music scope (big deal), or is a shitty chip just making a slightly more fuzzy audio (not a big deal)?

[Anonymous No.3552905]

I bought a box of Super Famicom games recently. I cleaned out the cartridge slot on my SNES and the pins on those SFC games as well. Some games still have trouble booting up. I used 91% alcohol to clean the contacts and they look clean. Is there anything else I can use to clean them? I've seen brasso or erasers mentioned, but curious what anyone else recommends.

[Anonymous No.3552920]

>>3552905
As far as I know isopropyl alcohol is the best for cleaning the contacts on the games themselves. But something that can often help if cleaning the cartridge slot still doesn't do the trick is to spray a bit of Deoxit inside: http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f?sc=2&category=188

[Anonymous No.3552983]

>>3552920
Do you use this stuff on the cartridge slot or the cartridges? I have the gamebit screwdriver so I guess I can clean either of them.

[Anonymous No.3553000]

>>3552905
brasso is a good last resort if alcohol and pencil eraser have failed. if brasso doesn't work, your cartridge is malfunctioning for some other reason.

[Anonymous No.3553065]

>>3552838
Slightly more fuzzy.
The only big sound concern is mono vs stereo.

[Anonymous No.3554531]

I had my N64 modded for RGB prior to Tim's board is it possible to have someone remod it and use Tim's board instead or will that fuck up my system?

[Anonymous No.3554537]

>>3554531
Most mods of that type are completely reversible by someone who has good tools and knows what they are doing, except for cuts/holes in the plastic case. It's just a bit more difficult. What do you want the other board for, I assume the firebrandx palettes?

[Anonymous No.3554552]

>>3554537
The blur removal to get rid of the blur that the 64 suffers from. I've seen what some games look like without via the Patches/Codes but i know there are still some that won't work with any options. All I know is that this was when only the NUS 001 were the only ones that could of been RGB Modded.

[Anonymous No.3555443]

I didn't want to start a whole new thread for this.

Is it okay to leave my Genesis games outside the case? The cases are pretty hard to find but there are companies that sell blank cases in bulk. Just expensive.

[Anonymous No.3555575]

Has anyone had a problem with a dualshock controller where it registers that a button is being perpetually held down? Particularly the select button?

I've tried cleaning the controller inside and out, as well as using it with the physical button removed to be 100% sure that the contact isn't touching it, and yet it still registers that the select button is being held down. I assume at this point that it's a wiring problem. Does anyone have advice on how to fix this?

[Anonymous No.3555585]

>>3555443
Why the hell wouldn't it? Al that gets on it is dust which you can blow off. Only optical media like CD's and DVD's need to be enclosed when not used.

[Anonymous No.3556116]

I have a 3DO but the disc motor doesn't spin. Anyway to get it spinning again?

[Anonymous No.3556254]

Where can I get an EPROM chip with star fox 2 on it?

Alternatively, what programmer do I need? This is probably the only repro I'd make, I guess maybe some of the rarer games to get my money out of it. Would be nice to be able to make MM3 chips for playstation as well, but I assume that's a different tech altogether.

[Anonymous No.3557191]

>>3552983
Sorry, I didn't check the site for a few days, so I don't know if you're still reading this thread, but to answer your question I just use alcohol on the cartridges. I don't think DeoxIT would hurt them, but I don't really think it would help either. The idea of spraying it inside the cartridge slot is so that it'll spread out and coat the pins inside and reduce corrosion on their surfaces. But as for the contacts on the cartridges themselves, cleaning with alcohol is probably all you need to do.

[Anonymous No.3558378]

>>3545554
Time for another.

[Anonymous No.3558605]

So I got this Psone with a modchip and 15 days later I realized it says PAL on its back. I burned NTSC games and they played just fine, my concern is the fps thing. I can't differentiate 50hz from 60hz so I don't know what framerate my PSone games are being played at., so does the PAL PSone limits the framerate to 50 for every game?

[Anonymous No.3558704]

>>3556116
Do you know the history of this machine?
Was it working when you got it?
Were there any issues or malfunctions before it stopped working?

[Anonymous No.3558857]

>>3558704
I actually am not sure if it worked beforehand. I bought it trough a Yahoo JP actions proxy but translation wasn't really clear if it worked beyond "operational". Everything else seems to work however, Disc access lights up when a cd goes back in tray, so I pulled the cover of and the motor just doesn't spin.

[Anonymous No.3558896]

>>3558605
>my concern is the fps thing. I can't differentiate 50hz from 60hz so I don't know what framerate my PSone games are being played

If you cannot differentiate then you shouldn't worry about it.

[Anonymous No.3558940]

>>3558857
Ok so the disc doesn't spin but what about the laser sled that moves backward and forward to access different tracks of the CD?
You should push the sled away from its current position and then put a disc in and turn it on. Keep your head close to the machine and listen if it moves.

Also you should check the motherboard if any capacitors are bulging or leaking.

What model of 3DO do you have?

[Anonymous No.3558952]

>>3558940
Check these links to learn the insides of the 3DO.
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Panasonic_3DO_FZ-10_Teardown
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/3DO_FZ-10_Repair_-_Lubricate_the_Laser_Sled

[Anonymous No.3558953]

>>3558952
I have a FZ-1 though.

[Anonymous No.3558954]

>>3558940
As you can see on this pic of mine >>3548234
could this cause anything?

[Anonymous No.3559002]

>>3541503
Recently I bought an old GBA for 15 bucks and this happened today
I don't really know what is happening. Sometimes I can see the screen (barely but still) and the image have weird colors, also the image appears and dissapears
Everything else works just fine (sound, buttons,etc)

I never had a GBA and I can't find a solution in others sites so I don't know what to do

[Anonymous No.3559009]

>>3559002
Open it up and check the ribbon cable connection.

[Anonymous No.3559020]

>>3558953
Except for the different disc drive the insides are very similar.
Even the disc drive works in the same way. It just has extra stuff like a moving tray and a magnet on top.

>>3558954
Capacitor electrolyte is usually orange or reddish-brown and PCB which has been damaged by it tends to be black.

I don't think that capacitor is faulty.

[Anonymous No.3559063]

>>3559020
So what´s the stuff on the bottom?

[Anonymous No.3559879]

>>3558940
Set it all the way back but it doesn't move either, I hear a faint sort of tick noise ticking about 8 times

[Anonymous No.3559901]

>>3548531
>the pickup is moving up and down, so the lid sensor is definitely passing the signal on OK

Then the laser is busted and it just does not see the disc. If it sees no disc, it has no reason to spin up.

[Anonymous No.3560491]

>>3556254
There are plenty of people who will burn whatever file you send them onto an EPROM. As long as you don't tell them what it is they won't laugh too hard that you're doing a hackaday tier spaghetti wired drackoned repro.
There exist TSOP to SNES MROM adapters that let you use a flash chip and just replace the donor MROM with a pin compatible device.

Best price/feature programmer is a PCB5, hands down. But no point getting one unless you're going to burn a lot more than one thing. It works fine for PICs but so does a $5 PIC programmer.

[Anonymous No.3562792]

>>3559879
I don't know for sure but this might be the lens bobbing up and down trying to focus on the disc and receive data.

It has to do this first before the drive spindle will turn the disc.

It is possible the drive spindle where the disc goes on may be too high or too low (more likely) so the gap between lens and CD-ROM is out of focusing range.

Try pulling up the spindle carefully with a plier and try the disc again.
Be careful and make sure to disassemble the drive enough that you can reach where you need to reach.

Alternately if the 3DO saw a great deal of use, the laser diode may be worn out and you need to adjust the voltage potentiometer screw to give it more power. You need to be very careful (small turns) with this or you will burn out the diode with too much volts. Make sure to measure the original resistance with a multimeter or mark the position of the screw before you change anything.

[Anonymous No.3563982]

>>3562792
I can't get it loose, some of the screws are completey stuck and the tops of it are crushed. Wasn't there a certain model CD drive you could replace the drive with?

[Anonymous No.3564463]

Are yellowed SNES consoles guaranteed to be 2CHIP, or is it just a general trend?

Are there any 1CHIP SFCs out there?

[Anonymous No.3564749]

>>3564463
The higher serial number consoles in general do seem to be less likely to yellow, but plenty of them still do. I've seen numerous 1-CHIP consoles that were almost as badly yellowed as the early models. They don't seem to get as brittle though, so that's nice.
North American 1-CHIP consoles will always have a serial starting in UN3 unless they were refurbished or the housing was swapped. UN31 or UN32 consoles will almost definitely be 1-CHIPs. But lower UN3 serials like UN303 or UN304 could be SNS-CPU-APU-01 instead and there's no way to know for sure without taking the top off to check.
I don't have any 1-CHIP SFCs, but I think it's safest to look for consoles with S25 serials. S249 serials could be 1-CHIP-01 or APU-01. This list linked to at the bottom of this page is a good reference: http://retrorgb.com/1chipsnes.html

[Anonymous No.3565856]

>>3541509
I considered buying one. I skipped on it because what I really wanted was to get FC audio expansion and I realized I could do that by soldering a few cents with some resistors I already owned onto the mobo, but from what I understand it's the real deal. If you are interested in doing cool and hacky things with your NES or you want to hook it up with a Famicom Disk Drive, it's probably the way to go.

[Anonymous No.3565862]

>>3556254
I had a good experience with gamereproductions.com. They provided the Eprom chips for my Caslevania 3 FC Audio repro cart. For the two chips I paid about $10 because they were having a sale, and they're having a sale right now. The only catch is that you might have to wait like a month for a custom order, so you'd better not be in a rush if you order from them.

While you're waiting for your EPROMs to arive, I recommend repairing some old broken systems. It'll take your mind off of the long wait and keep your soldering skills sharp.

[Anonymous No.3566063]

>>3551585
Sorry. Do you know where I can get replacement shells.

[Anonymous No.3566071]

>>3559063
Not him, but I have seen it in the old electronics. I suspect it's some sort of glue.
I recently opened some old alarm clock that did work and bigger capacitors had black stuff at the bottom.

[Anonymous No.3566106]

Modded an OG GBA with an SP backlight now they're suddenly back in stock from China.

All the new stock seem to be 32 pin though, and it's absolutely IMPOSSIBLE to get a good picture on a 40 pin motherboard. Seriously, don't even try, some retards like to pretend it's possible if you solder in 50 extra wires but it isn't.

You can get a passable picture, but if you move the screen at all, you get a weird scanline effect that looks like shit. Not only that, but you get hideous image retention problems, if anything disappears from the screen it'll stay on the background faintly for 10 seconds or more. Messing with the voltage does nothing, I must have spent 2 hours trying to fix it when it took 5 seconds on a 32 pin motherboard.

Screens are about 40 bucks from Aliexpress, a GBA with the right motherboard is about 20 on eBay, but be sure to check. Now I just wish the Chink GB flashcarts were still being sold, emulating Color games on the GBA comes with really annoying audio issues, and anything obscure drops down to 20fps constantly.

[Anonymous No.3566117]

Trying to find a suitable North american AC adapter for a Super Famicom on Amazon and chinese websites after going bust at local thrift shops.

Any input or recommendations would be great since apparently sellers don't see the need to list polarity or jack size.

[Anonymous No.3566119]

>>3541503
Just bought a Dreamcast. It boots up fine, but won't read the game that came with it. The disc looks fine. When I open the lid, the disc doesn't look like it's spinning.

I read somewhere that you have to set the potentiometer screw to spin the disc faster. Does this work? How easy is it to turn the screw too far and fuck up the console?

[Anonymous No.3566313]

>>3566106
>You can get a passable picture, but if you move the screen at all, you get a weird scanline effect that looks like shit.
Sounds like the VCOM voltage for the LCD isn't properly set, these are calibrated for each screen.
There should be a SMD trimmer called VR1 on the motherboard which you have to adjust.
>if anything disappears from the screen it'll stay on the background faintly for 10 seconds or more
A sign that the VCOM voltage is very off, do not use it this way for a extended period or else static images can burn in (just like arcade/studio CRTs or OLED do).

If you want to read more about this:
http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/an12/an1208.pdf

[Anonymous No.3566320]

>>3566313
>Sounds like the VCOM voltage for the LCD isn't properly set, these are calibrated for each screen.
I messed with it for a solid couple of hours, up and down, slowly and quickly. The issue is that the 32 pin screens just aren't compatible with the 40 pin motherboards at all, even if you solder a bunch of shit to ground or whatever.

The screen was completely fine when I put it in a 32 pin GBA, and needed only a tiny bit of trimming to eliminate the scanlines.

[Anonymous No.3566332]

>>3566117
The Genesis 1 plug is fine for it. I would be very surprised if you can't find people selling those of replicated versions of them.

If the plug lists input 240-100v it's fine to use.

I'm in the UK blasting 240v out the walls and a cheap nondescript little UK DC plug that outputs 9v works perfectly fine and doesn't even get hot at all from 12+ hours of being left on

[Anonymous No.3566826]

My Saturn Hori stick has started to only work if tilted upwards a bit. Other controllers work fine so I think it's the prongs on the controller end. Is there an easy way to open up the port side of a Saturn controller?

[Anonymous No.3568176]

>>3566117
Get one with a bunch of tips. One is sure to fit and you can select the polarity you want.

>>3566119
>I read somewhere
Don't believe everything you read. That's total BS.

[Anonymous No.3568264]

Why might a game display in b&w through composite on a pal ps1/psx? Just bought a lot on eBay that says one of them does this and wondering how difficult the fix will be

[Anonymous No.3568283]

>>3568264
>Why might a game display in b&w through composite on a pal ps1/psx?

When you try to play NTSC games.

[Anonymous No.3568284]

>>3568283
It out the 3 in the lot this was the only one with that problem and they're all pal so it's probably not that but thanks

[Anonymous No.3568302]

>>3568264
>>3568284

Have you tested the game yourself yet? Some sellers don't know what the fuck they're doing when it comes to video games.

[Anonymous No.3568468]

>>3568264
You'll need RGB-scart cable to get color picture with NTSC games(on PAL ps1).

I think theres color correction mod for it though(google).

[Anonymous No.3568612]

>>3568284
A faulty or dirty pin on the AV connector would probably do it.

Honestly, why are you buying broken PS1s? They're dirt fucking cheap in WORKING condition, they sold so many that you might as well throw any with issues into the trash.

[Anonymous No.3568876]

>>3568612
There's at least one working unit among the 3 and 2 have mod chips. I really just wanted the chips.

[Anonymous No.3568949]

>>3568876
Modchips are incredibly cheap, I bought mine for about 5 bucks shipped. Soldering them in is a bit fiddly, but it's hardly worth buying broken consoles for, even more so when you don't know how ancient the modchips are.

[Anonymous No.3568995]

Got a SCPH 5502 sitting around here which i never got around to fix.

Can't even remember what exactly was wrong with it. Either the spindle started slipping on the motor axis or the CD started slipping on the spindle itself.

Would putting in a new spindle help or should i just get a whole new CD drive for it?

[Anonymous No.3569171]

>>3568264
Because that game uses a system with a color subcarrier the sellers setup doesn't support.

[Anonymous No.3571510]

>>3568264
>>3568284
>>3568876

so i'm this idiot. The 2 chipped consoles work but music/fmv sometimes skips even with the 1 genuine game i've got (soul edge). I've cleaned/lubed the cd units inside and only 1 cd drive plays my burnt games consistently but I broke the spindle trying to swap it for a complete one (i've ordered some more but who knows when they'll get there).

Should I expect any old cdrs to work? The philips ones i've got work fine with my saturn and duo but aren't working on these ps1s.

[Anonymous No.3572774]

I tried to set up a famiclone a few days ago (it's the one in the picture). I used an original NES power supply because I couldn't find the one that came with it. The console turned on, but it soon stopped working. I'm afraid I might have fried something. Is the famiclone done for or can it be repaired?

[Anonymous No.3572858]

>>3571510
ps1's way of storing CD data actually has less error correction than saturn's. ITS SHIT.

[Anonymous No.3572921]

>>3572774
Well, check the voltage it requires. I wouldn't be surprised that it's less than NES itself.

[Anonymous No.3572947]

>>3568995
The spindle can just pop off if you're careful but if you don't care you can just break it off, any standard CD spindle from a player can replace it.

[Anonymous No.3572962]

>>3572774
>original NES power supply
I'm afraid it's most likely that you've fired it. Just my guess but the NES plug is an AC power adapter and NESes in US and Europe had bridge rectifiers in them to change the current to DC. I have a feeling that famiclone doesn't have a rectifier in it and so got a nasty surprise

[Anonymous No.3573225]

>>3554531
>>3554552
Hey did you find any solution to this? I have an ED64 and a gameshark, rom patching and codes work, but as you said, it doesn't do quite everything compared to the hardware mod.

[Anonymous No.3573371]

My dreamcast won't read my discs at all. Pretty sure the laser is just busted. Any easy way I can replace it or should I just buy a new one?

[Anonymous No.3573373]

>>3573371
You should just buy a new one. They use to have new old stock of lasers but they've dried up.

It's all because they use the damn GCD

[Anonymous No.3573383]

>>3572774
Depends what blew. If it ran off AC at all it obviously does have a rectifier and if that's where the problem is it's easy enough to fix. If it has a regulator and that blew it's also easy to fix. If it was passing 9V straight through to a 5V system and that blew then it's fucked. Open it up and take some pics.

[Anonymous No.3573492]

I work at a used game/dvd store and in the back we have a whole box of Sega Genesis (mostly model 2 and 1) consoles that aren't working. I want to get them fixed as something to do on slow days and for experience and fun, plus it'll impress my boss a bit if it works out and if I fuck up there's not much of a loss. I'm going to ask to use one to work on to see if I can fix it and I was wondering if anyone knows of some common genesis hardware issues for me to look for, or any resources to check out. I've read the gametechwiki teardown and any pages related to it but it doesn't help with specific problems that might occur.
Thank you!

[Anonymous No.3573536]

>>3573492
I'd try to get more of them at a time. This might not be that helpful, but try cleaning the contacts of the cartridge slot for each console and present him a bunch of "fixed" consoles all at once, that might impress your boss. Find a game that has clean contacts, or a flashcart/repro that has newly manufactured contacts and see if that gets you anywhere with any that are "broken"

[Anonymous No.3573551]

>>3573536
thanks, I'm going to update when I get ahold of one/some probably this week and see where I can get with them.

[Anonymous No.3574053]

>>3573492
80% of the time it's a voltage regulator. 15% of the time it's dust or spiders or some shit. 4% of the time it's something that came loose. 1% of the time it's something that takes more than 30 seconds to fix.

[Anonymous No.3574081]

>>3574053
you forgot bad caps being a common problem.

[Anonymous No.3574301]

>>3574053
not that guy but if the voltage regulator is fucked would the copyright screen comeup?

[Anonymous No.3574302]

>>3574301
no

[Anonymous No.3574558]

>>3574081
I didn't. It's not a common problem. It's a common meme. Not even joking. Of the hundreds of MD/Genesis I've had over the years only one ever had a problem with a cap. And that was because it fell off. The solder was fucked but the cap was just fine. I soldered it back on and it worked fine.

>>3574301
There are two voltage regulators. Depending on which ir or how many are fucked and how it might come up or not.

[Anonymous No.3574943]

Does anyone know site that sells replacement rubber pads for the sega genesis six button controller? mortoffgames has them but fuck paying $13.50 for shipping.

On related note, does saturns controllers rubber pads fit to genesis six button controller? They look similar and they are way cheaper on aliexpress(including shipping).

[Anonymous No.3574949]

How viable are Dreamcast replacement lasers such as http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-SPU-3200-HKT-3000-JVC-Laser-Lens-Sega-Dreamcast-Optical-Pickup-Laser-Lens-/332002374526 ? Are they just plug-and-play tier and/or will they damage my system or (retail) games in the short or long term?

[Anonymous No.3575184]

Reset button on my snes mini doesn't work. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3575195]

>>3575184
Open it up and clean the dust off/spray ISO into it and press it until it starts moving again

[Anonymous No.3575198]

Does anyone know what sort of batteries go into this? Battries I use for normal game and watches dont appear to be working.

[Anonymous No.3575202]

>>3575198
Pic of battery terminal, different to standard game and watches

[Anonymous No.3575594]

>>3575198
Pretty sure it uses those thick watch sized batteries. LR45 or something like that. I'll check the exact part when I get home.

[Anonymous No.3575609]

>>3575594
Thanks

[Anonymous No.3575717]

>>3575202
Unfortunately its missing a battery holder it seems. It use to hold 2 small coin cells.

[Anonymous No.3575847]

>>3571510
Bought taiyo yuden CDRs and the issues I had seems to have disappeared

[Anonymous No.3575983]

>>3573383
I will take some pics as soon as I get it back. I gave it to a friend who says he can repair stuff. He says it can't be repaired but I don't really trust him. He's not specialized in retro consoles. I really do want to get other people's opinions on it.

I wouldn't be so hell bent on fixing it, after all I have a dozen of famiclones lying around, but it's the only one I have that takes 72-pin cartridges.

[Anonymous No.3577445]

Hi,
I have a standard white Wii. It has lots of superficial scratches on it.
Is there a good product for butting these out?
Alternatively, are there any cool custom cases?

[Anonymous No.3577459]

>>3577445
Try good quality car polish for white cars or something

[Anonymous No.3578287]

Are any consoles actually worth overclocking? Or do they all fuck with game/music speed?

[Anonymous No.3579439]

bump

[Anonymous No.3579896]

>>3578287
What's the point of overclocking a console?

[Anonymous No.3579908]

>>3579896
So the NotRetroStation 3 doesn't run multiplayer like shit. So the NotRetroCube doesn't sputter with Dark Alliance.

[Anonymous No.3579990]

>>3579908
>PS3 overclocking
Yeah, like the console didn't have heat problems stock.

[Anonymous No.3580635]

Hi, i need help. Im geting black screen on a bootleg mario allstarts on old snes. At first i tought it was a broken capacitor on the game but i changed it and the game still doesnt work.
Already tried with cleaning the game and the snes can run other games fine so i run out of ideas.

I know i should be expecting much of a bootleg but i really want to fix my Mario all-stars

[Anonymous No.3580638]

>>3580635
Meant to type 'I know i shouldnt*'

[Anonymous No.3582785]

bump

[Anonymous No.3583506]

>>3572774
>>3573383
>>3575983

Here I am. I finally got it back. Here's a picture of the insides.

[Anonymous No.3583612]

>>3583506
You're in luck. It has a regulator. If you over volted it odds are this $0.05 (retail) part sacrificed itself to save your console. Test it, replace it, and enjoy the hideous AV experience that is your famiclone.

[Anonymous No.3583629]

>>3583612
Thanks for the info. Too bad I'm not well versed in fixing these things myself and I lack the tools and know-how. I'll have to find someone to help me out and try this.

As I said, I have a ton of other clones, plus an original NES and a Twin Famicom. I have plenty of choices to play these games, but believe it or not, this clone was one of the best. Plus, it takes 72 pin cartridges. I remember playing Zelda II on this and it looked great.

[Anonymous No.3583752]

I'm thinking of buying a PAL SNES with a switchless SuperCIC mod for 100€. I find this as a very appealing solution because I'm a PALfag, I'll be playing games from all three regions, and I highly prefer the SFC look.
What are some weaknesses I could encounter with a mod setup such as this? Do all games work? How's the 50/60hz? Should I go for a unmoded US SNES instead?

[Anonymous No.3583927]

>>3583752
If you like the SFC look, buy a Super Famicom you fucking retard.

[Anonymous No.3583940]

>>3583927
US SNES systems are easier to physically modify to accept all cartridges, asshat.

[Anonymous No.3583980]

>>3583752
>buying a PAL SNES with a switchless SuperCIC mod for 100€

I'm fine with pic related, thank you very much, at least it cost way less.
Or I would get a super famicom instead.

[Anonymous No.3583995]

>>3583980
You do understand that in addition to a specific converter piece (that might not even work for many PAL games) I'd have to buy a stepup converter for the system? The cost is a non-issue.
I'm asking how well the mod performs.

[Anonymous No.3584020]

So I wanted to fix up my old original Xbox.

It had a power problem where it would remain permanently on if power was going to it. I did my research and removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area. Still has the problem. I replaced the power supply, still has the problem. I poked around on the power/reset board, no problems, still has the problem even with that board removed. After pulling my hair out I dug deeper, and found someone who diagnosed this further than I had. He mapped out the traces from the power switch to the motherboard and resistors through to a chip (pic related). I discovered that the trace for the power button was severed somewhere between this chip and the resistors on the motherboard. It looks like the contents of the corroded clock capacitor had dripped down and eaten through that one specific trace, fuck me.

At this point, in one of my rare bits of optimism I decided to run a wire between those two points to bridge the gap and complete the trace externally. However, I hadn't counted on my terrible inexperience with soldering and my complete lack of steady hands. Long story short, after several fuckups and hours of frustration I have now completely destroyed the resistor in question and my faith in myself to fix this. Thankfully the system still works, but now the eject button turns the system off somehow unless I use it to turn the system on (in which case it doesn't?)

Basically my question is this: I don't know anybody with the soldering skills to fix this, can I just buy a replacement motherboard as long as it's the same version? Or is the HDD/optical drive hard coded to be married to just this board? I've wasted far too much time on this, now spending money is my only option, I don't want to just buy a new system, I have a bunch of saves that I don't want to lose on this drive

[Anonymous No.3584031]

>>3583995
>I'd have to buy a stepup converter
Don't you mean a stepdown converter?
I thought you said you were a PALfag, which means you live in Europe, right?
In which case you need to convert from 230v to 110v.
For that you just need a travel converter that shouldn't cost more than 12 something EUR.
Or a MegaDrive 1 power supply.

If the cost is a non-issue, though, you can basically do anything you want.

[Anonymous No.3584034]

>>3584020
Not retro, but just buy another one. They are a dimond dozen nowadays

[Anonymous No.3584037]

>>3584020
Drives are locked to the unit, you could probably soft-mod it, unlock the drive somehow and put it in a console that isn't fucked. You might be able to transfer some of the saves to a USB drive with an adapter cable as an alternative, but some saves can't be copied or moved.

[Anonymous No.3584057]

>>3584034
>>3584037
Sorry, I am just so frustrated about this I forgot it wasn't officially "retro". Not like I would have been able to post a technical question like this on /v/. I took note of the HDD-link issue and found a matching replacement board/drive for $13 on eBay. Hopefully that solves my issues from here on. I'll try to back up what I can to my memory card that I bought back in the day for some reason (must have been before I knew it had a HDD or something, I certainly didn't have any friends with the system)

[Anonymous No.3584084]

>>3584020
I had that same problem with my xbox. I fixed it by soldering on the bottom of the board between some vias and test points.

[Anonymous No.3586275]

I have this IR conrtoller for my CD-i but it doesn't seem to work, the person I bought it from said it did work. Are these controllers supposed to work with any CD-i that has an IR display?

[Anonymous No.3586320]

I just recapped a Game Gear to fix the usual sound and display problems but the right hand third of the screen is brighter than the rest.

Is this fixable or is the panel toasted?

[Anonymous No.3586493]

>>3586275
Yes, they work with any it capable cdi, but you have to aim it precisely at the cdi and squint your left eye while sticking your tongue slightly out the right side of your mouth with your fingers crossed behind your back, because those ir controllers suck when it comes to reception.

[Anonymous No.3586595]

>>3586493
But do I need to aim it at the system display or just in the general direction?

[Anonymous No.3586672]

>>3566117
Genesis Model 1

[Anonymous No.3586859]

>>3543672
Well, it is a sponge so it makes sense to use it with water.

But it is also like sandpaper and I don't think anyone uses water with sandpaper.

But whetstones used for sharpening knives are supposed to be wetted.

[Anonymous No.3586870]

>>3586595
You need to aim at the exact spot the ir sensor is at

[Anonymous No.3587281]

>>3586859
Water helps to contain and flush away the microscopic melamine particles generated from using the sponge. I can't imagine that shit is at all good for your lungs...

Also
>He's never heard of wet&dry paper

[Anonymous No.3587317]

>>3583995
>I'd have to buy a stepup converter for the system?

You don't need one if you use whatever your country's plug is, You only need stepdown convertor if you're using a foreign plug that isn't made for 230v.

The SFC takes a standard 2.1x5.5mm jack so all you need is a DC plug that outputs 9~12 volts with a negative polarity, basically a Genisis 1 plug.

I'm not familiar with the edgy purple Nintendo but it should be the same and I've heard it can take AC just like a Pal Nintendo so you can just use your PAL Nintendo plug, 50Hz AC current is a non-issue when the current is being converted to DC and doesn't effect anything

[Anonymous No.3588575]

I'm trying this shitty chinese power brick on a super famicom that I just received, it works but I'm getting a bunch of video artifacts (scrolling blur line and some odd shadows).

is there anyway to eliminate these or should I just hack the tip off and frankenstein it to a snes adapter or something.

[Anonymous No.3588814]

>>3588575
Get a real adapter like a Sega Genesis model 1 adapter.

those are shit and barely put out what they're marked for.

[Anonymous No.3589239]

I ordered a Super Wild Card DX for the SNES that's suffered from some pretty fucking severe alkaline damage. I didn't know it would be this bad.

There don't appear to be any traces in the area that the acid spunk was before, at least compared to a clean picture on Google, but is there anything I can do to get this thing working again?

[Anonymous No.3589264]

>>3589239
Even if you ignore the acid destruction, there's still corrosion all over the traces in the upper right. Throw it in the trash, or spend hours testing continuity and soldering jumpers.

[Anonymous No.3589970]

>>3586859
I use water with sandpaper.

[Anonymous No.3590132]

>>3589970
That's a good way to ruin your tip

[Anonymous No.3592842]

bumpie

[Anonymous No.3592931]

>>3586320
Anyone have an idea?

[Anonymous No.3593117]

I've got a problem with my N64. After a while, it'll do a reboot out of nowhere, and after the first reboot, it'll start rebooting every couple of seconds until I power the system off. This only used to happen when leaving the system idle, but now it's starting to happen during gameplay. It's not a spooky, haunted cartridge that I'm going to write a bad creepypasta about either, because it happens to all my games. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3593667]

Looking for general Neo Geo MVS consolization advice, hope /vr/ can help me.
I am working on Neo Geo consolization project (board is MV-1FZ) and have some doubts about proper output of RGB signals. There are some confusing guides at various forums for getting proper video output out of arcade MVS board.
So far I'm using R, G, B Jamma pins with 75 Ohm resistors in-line, and it works great both with PVM and consumer set. Brightness is pretty much on the same level as Saturn running same game on the same display.
I have seen other opinions regarding MVS video output though:
- use 120 or 150 Ohm instead
- add decoupling cap to video and sync lines
- don't add any caps because arcade video isn't AC coupled
- using RGB jamma directly is wrong, build RGB amp with Sony CXA1145 instead
tl;dr - what is the definitely right way to get correct RGB video out of my MVS board> I don't really need composite or S-Video.
Thanks everyone in advance.

[Anonymous No.3593747]

>>3565856
I did end up buying one actually. Plays Gimmick audio perfectly from my Everdrive n8. Can't complain one bit.

[Anonymous No.3593873]

>>3593117
Could be the power supply or the chips overheating. I'd try a different power supply.

[Anonymous No.3594093]

I have a snes Jr. that won't output a solid picture. I've replaced the pin connector with one from a working snes, replaced the video multi out, and replaced the voltage regulator.
Every game just plays in a wavy rainbowy mess on the tv.
Bad caps maybe? They all looked fine, didn't look/smell like blown gamegear caps or anything.
Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3594115]

>>3594093
Post a picture?

[Anonymous No.3594596]

>>3594115
>>3594093
Here you go. This is with the standard AV cables and official power supply.

[Anonymous No.3594598]

>>3594115
Here is another picture using rf on the snes Jr with a GameCube rf adapter. Ref cables and adapter are official Nintendo and are brand new.

[Anonymous No.3594624]

>>3593747
Nice. Good to hear.

[Anonymous No.3594686]

>>3594093
>Every game just plays in a wavy rainbowy mess on the tv.
>Bad caps maybe?
If your connections are all good, as you say they are, then probably. Remember, a cap doesn't have to be "blown" to be bad. I once had a bad cap that looked almost perfect, with the slightest bulge in the case.

Just a heads up, most electrolytic caps have a projected lifespan of 15 years. Sure, they can last and function beyond that point, but they aren't expected to. As such, I replace any caps that are older than 15 years since I just know it's a matter of time before they shit the bed. Take a wild guess how old the caps in the Jr. are.

[Anonymous No.3594704]

>>3594596
>>3594598
Are you using an old CRT TV or a newer HDTV? Try on another display if you can.

Problems with color usually happen when the encoder doesn't get the right subcarrier frequency. I don't think there're snes jr. schematics available so it's going to be hard to know which components are involved. IIRC the Jr. doesn't even have a variable capacitor to adjust the clock frequency.
What you can do is clean thoroughly the whole board with alcoho, especially around and below the crystal. Sometimes dirt and grime around the crystal oscillator components make it output the wrong frequency or even not clock at all.
Failing that you can try recapping the board. It's only about 8 electrolytic caps or so and they are all through hole so it's very easy to do.
Failing that you can try replacing the crystal. Or before that, if you have a RGB monitor you can see if it works fine with RGB output, though you have to mod the Jr. because the RGB lines are not connected. If RGB works but not s-video, composite then the encoder it's busted or it is not getting the correct carrier frequency. If the encoder is not busted but somehow getting the wrong carrier frequency you can try as a last resort to connect a NTSC-frequency oscillator to the encoder.

[Anonymous No.3594731]

>>3594686
I hear you. Just never seen capacitor issues on either a snes or snes Jr. before but I guess with their age it's going to be a big issue for a lot of people soon.
Was worried it was a ram or ppu issue. I'll change the caps and hope for the best.

[Anonymous No.3594763]

>>3594704
Pictures here were taken on a lcd but have tried on multiple tv's both cry and lcd and same results.
I've also cleaned the board and the areas around the crystal with nothing changing.
Don't have an rgb monitor unfortunately.
If recapping does nothing I'll change the crystal. One from a regular snes board should work right?
Swear to god I will get this stupid thing to work.

[Anonymous No.3594851]

The Dreamcast I just bought is able to play commercial games but not CD-Rs.

It has a circled 1 on the back not 2 which means it doesn't have copy protection.

Either the drive is bad or my burns are bad.

I use Memorex CD-Rs burnt at 24X with IMGburn program.
Any tips for burning Dreamcast games?
Are different consoles more or less sensitive to the quality of a disc burn?

Failing that, what should I do to fix the optical drive?
Should I adjust the potentionmeter or raise/lower the disc spindle and/or laser sled?

[Anonymous No.3595346]

>>3594851
Try burning at a slower speed. It is recommended to go as slow as your drive will allow.

You may need to try different discs as well. I use some super cheap 50 for $8 cd-rs from newegg and they work great but my Dreamcast has never given me issues with CD-Rs

[Anonymous No.3595386]

I bought a Saturn off CL and the guy offered me his broken model 2 Genesis as well. The unit doesn't power on.

I took it apart to check the solder joints for the power and I'm noticed these wires that I don't see on most of the repair videos on YouTube.

I don't have a soldering iron where I live now and don't really plan on needing one again.
Should I just buy another Genesis unit? (I have all the hook ups and everything) or do I have a good shot with a cheap soldering iron to repair this?

[Anonymous No.3595392]

>>3595386
It's a model 2, they're completely worthless and junk tier. Pick up a Model 1 next time.

[Anonymous No.3595419]

>>3595392
Thanks!

[Anonymous No.3595515]

>>3595346
>Try burning at a slower speed. It is recommended to go as slow as your drive will allow.
Goddamn will people stop spreading this meme around? This was true, back in 2003. Back then you could possibly burn faster than your computer could keep the drive's buffer supplied, leading to bad burns. This is no longer an issue, unless you are using a toaster from 2003. Any PC since 2010 can easily burn at 52x without buffering issues. Stop mindlessly repeating shit you've read online, goddamn.

>>3594851
If it plays pressed discs fine but not burned, then your laser is just slightly off. Look up a good guide to adjusting your laser, and make SMALL adjustments.

[Anonymous No.3595516]

>>3595386
That power cable there is normal. No one knows why they are there, but some people suspect it is there as a bypass because the PCB has too high electrical resistance.

[Anonymous No.3595597]

>>3595386
Those jumper wires are unnecessary. You only have to reflow those broken solder joints. In particular, that one soldered to the red wire. Just remove the wires, put some flux on the joints and reflow.
Don't listen to >>3595392, depending on the encoder and audio amp the model 1 can be good and it has stereo.

[Anonymous No.3595653]

>>3595515

I thought it was because the laser had more dwell time on the pits at slower speeds, leading to better definition and thus less read errors?

I would welcome some authoritative, scientific data. (not just a bunch of anecdotal forum posts)

[Anonymous No.3595656]

>>3595597
Thank you, I appreciate it. I learned that a Harbor Freight opened near me so I grabbed a $4 soldering iron for this. HF didn't have any flux though. I'm just going to remove the wires and reflow.

I know they're trolling. I just want to play games. People here seem to care more about their retro setups than playing games and discussing game design. Will re-do again if the power stops with flux. Thanks again.

>>3595516
Yeah I looked around and some people seem to think it's a refurb. From what I've read removing the wires fixes the power problem though.

[Anonymous No.3595674]

>>3595653
The problem I was describing is called Buffer Underrun.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_underrun

[Anonymous No.3595686]

>>3595656
While you are at it you can reflow the controller ports as well. Last month I got a genesis 2 that wouldn't turn on because of broken solder joints and after I reflowed the joints of the power connector I found out that the controller ports had the same problem. Ended up reflowing the cart connector as well just to be sure.

[Anonymous No.3595710]

>>3595656
>Yeah I looked around and some people seem to think it's a refurb. From what I've read removing the wires fixes the power problem though.

No, you misunderstand. Those two cables are there by factory. I've seen lots of Megadrives and even a lot of Saturns with similar fixes. I've also read people reporting problems with them removed.

[Anonymous No.3595719]

>>3595686
Cool, I'll give that a go as its still dissembled.

Power is working now! but my games aren't...
I get the black "Produced by Sega" screen and then a blank screen on both Toe Jam & Earl and NHL 96. Both games look pretty clean.

My chinese ED boots up fine but the three games I tried have issues. Cotton loaded up glitches out while Sonic 1 and Goldenaxe don't load at all (same as the above carts).

It's amazing this unit is so temperamental. The Genesis 2 I grew up with that my brother got in 93' has never had any problems.

[Anonymous No.3595725]

>>3595674
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buffer_underrun

I'm aware of what buffer underrun is. You also did a good job of explaining it in your previous post.

I was stating that I thought, perhaps incorrectly, that slower burn speeds produced more sharply defined pits. I would welcome some authoritative data regarding raw bit error rates and/or SEM images to prove or disprove this hypothesis.

[Anonymous No.3595891]

>>3595719
I cleaned the cartridge slot but still no luck.
What's interesting is Master System games boot up fine from the EverDrive.

Someone with the same problem suggested it was a power issue and resolved it by reflowing the power joints. They said that this happens when the system gets enough power to boot up, but not to start the game.
I kind of suck at soldering so maybe I didn't do a good enough job. Maybe removing the old solder and doing it again would work, or redoing those wires that were in there.

Someone also said that they fixed it by switching to composite. Perhaps there's some issue with RF power draw going on..

[Anonymous No.3596560]

>>3595719
>everdrive works fine
>but not normal games
That is weird as fuck, since ED's typically require more power, leading to major issues when using 3rd party power bricks that don't give enough power. I've never heard of an ED working when normal games didn't. Please keep us posted, I wish to know more.

>>3595725
My mistake. I've never heard this theory before, but googling around it seems to be a popular theory. Best I saw was on one forum where they ran some tests only to find that the pits/grooves were the exact same depth, but the separation between pit and non-pit were slightly less clear. And they were ALL saying "just burn at max speed", so I guess it wasn't that big of a deal. I kinda suspected as such, since burnt CD's have the data on a dye layer rather than pressed grooves/pits. Given how thin that layer is, would have been one hell of a thing to be able to pull off different depths. Can't find any HARD evidence though.

That, and I saw one forum that actually had it listed in the rules "Claiming to be able to hear a difference in music CD's burnt at different speeds without posting scientific proof is a bannable offense". Guess they got tired of this theory.

[Anonymous No.3596565]

Which is better for cleaning handheld screens:

Windex or eyeglass cleaning fluid?

[Anonymous No.3596570]

>>3595891
>Maybe removing the old solder and doing it again would work, or redoing those wires that were in there.
The wires certainly do not hurt although they don't seem to be doing much of anything.

[Anonymous No.3596626]

>>3595515
>Goddamn will people stop spreading this meme around? This was true, back in 2003. Back then you could possibly burn faster than your computer could keep the drive's buffer supplied, leading to bad burns. This is no longer an issue, unless you are using a toaster from 2003. Any PC since 2010 can easily burn at 52x without buffering issues. Stop mindlessly repeating shit you've read online, goddamn.
Go ahead, burn it with 52x speed and try it. Both PS1 and Dreamcast won't even try. My burner goes only as low as 16x so I have to use that. Burning above that sometimes works on Dreamcast, but PS1 still won't even try.

[Anonymous No.3596658]

>>3596626
Sounds like an issue on your end. I've burnt PS1 CDs at 52x without issues since I had a dual-core. I USED to have to burn at 1x-4x on my old P4 otherwise it would have problems, but I haven't had that issue since.

Try using something other than a $10 bargain bin burner and 10 cent discs?

[Anonymous No.3596672]

>>3596565
Windex is awful, Eyeglass cleaning fluid is perfect.

[Anonymous No.3596684]

>>3596626
Then your consoles are on the fritz, because none of my Saturns ever had any problems with any kind of media burnt at any kind of speed, even shitty noname brand burnt at 52x.

PS1 is known to have a self-destructing CD drive, so I'm not surprised that some discs won't work. Even back in the 90s, some discs just wouldn't play on the console.

Dreamcast is iffy. I never could get anything working on that, no matter the application (tried Nero, CloneCD, Imgburn, none worked). The only way I could get anything working was to use Discjuggler, which in trial mode only burnt at 1x speed.

[Anonymous No.3596757]

>>3596684
>PS1 is known to have a self-destructing CD drive, so I'm not surprised that some discs won't work. Even back in the 90s, some discs just wouldn't play on the console.
Self-destruction limited to slower burned disc. And for both PS1 and PSO. Sure.
>The only way I could get anything working was to use Discjuggler, which in trial mode only burnt at 1x speed.
Which is technically impossible because the lowest speed is set by your burner and it's just impossible to burn at lower speed without changing firmware of the drive itself. Most modern cheap drives will burn at 16x minimum even if you tell them to burn lower.

Next time you idiots bait and samefag, be a little bit less obvious.

[Anonymous No.3596794]

>>3596684
>PS1 is known to have a self-destructing CD drive
The 1xxx series did, but beyond that it wasn't an issue.

>>3596757
>samefag
Who are you talking to?

[Anonymous No.3597424]

I found an electronic lubricant oil that says it has Teflon and Fluon particles.
It says it resists dust, can handle extreme temps, and penetrating action frees stuck nuts and bolts.

What can I use this for?
Can I use it to oil the drive spindle and laser sled of optical consoles?
Can I use it to oil the N64 analogue stick?
What other retro stuff needs lubing and does it matter what type of lube you use?

[Anonymous No.3597798]

Bought a Genesis without a working LED. Opened it up and the LED cable has snapped. What should I search for on Ebay to get a new one?

[Anonymous No.3597937]

>>3596560
I asked somewhere else and someone thought that it might be the cartridge slot as Master System uses 40 pins while Genesis uses 64. Not sure if it's worth replacing the cartridge slot but we'll see. Someone else suggested checking for anything funny with the bus arbiter pins.

I'm going to take another look at the board tomorrow. I've redone the soldering on the power jack a couple times and feel pretty confident that it's not the power.

I'll let you know

>>3596570
Yeah I'm getting the same result either way. I don't know much about electronics so I'm just trying different shit.

>>3596658
In my experience PS1's can be very finicky about disks and burn speeds many other people on the internet share this experience. Dreamcasts can to, but less so.

[Anonymous No.3599423]

>>3596560
>>3596560

Interesting update.... I've found some Genesis games that I am able to play, and some that freeze up.
Art Alive and Ms. Pacman run perfectly, as does this controller tester rom.
Road Blasters and Powerball freeze shortly after booting
Cotton loads the intro scene but if I hit start or wait for the main menu to come up it freezes.

I'm thinking there's a component that these games aren't using/don't use immediately that is bad/has a bad connection.

[Anonymous No.3599559]

>>3566119
You can adjust the resistance potentiometer of the laser but this doesn't speed up the disc. It can work if you're careful and make small adjustments. I've done this with one DC and it's worked fine since, but I've heard that you should use a multimeter to measure it as you adjust, and that the laser will probably die again eventually. If you're already going to replace the Dreamcast, there's little harm in experimenting. Worst case scenario, save it for other parts. The Maple board (the controller ports and internal battery are here) is especially useful, as I've had a few of these break in some older units. I used to just replace my DCs when they died and sell the old ones for parts but they're often $40-$80 now instead of $15, and there are a lot of very useful guides on repairs.

[Anonymous No.3600905]

>>3541503
Is it possible to power a AY-3-8500 pong chip with 5V?