Repair/Mod General - Game Tech Wiki

[Anonymous No.3317330]

Got questions about repairs or mods you're working on? Bring 'em here.

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

When attempting to fix any problems with your old hardware, the first thing you should do is thoroughly clean everything. That may fix whatever problem you had. Check out this guide for tips:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

[Anonymous No.3318167]

Can someone link me the best website to buy replacement parts from? I only browse Ali, Ebay, and Amazon.

Right now I'm having a tough time looking for a new LCD screen for my Gameboy Sp. The 001 version.

[Anonymous No.3318279]

Does anyone have a pinout for the 315-5960 ASIC used in the Genesis/Megadrive Model 2 (VA4) and Model 3 (VA1)?

Specifically I need to know which pins output RGB - was 35, 36 and 37 on at least some earlier chips - so I can run a shielded cable and bypass the interference-ridden motherboard traces.

PS can anyone tell me what the FUCK is going on in pic related?

[Anonymous No.3318284]

I have a SNES RGB cable but for some reason only the left and middle part of the audio work in stereo.

[Anonymous No.3319273]

>>3318279
Looks like a development kit for the Sega Genesis with some sort of error code output.

Most companies had to construct their own kits back in the day.

[Anonymous No.3319290]

>>3318279
Is that an s-video port in the top left corner? It doesn't look like the normal 9-pin a/v port.

[Anonymous No.3319304]

I know ita not /vr/ but my DS lite top screen hinge broke, and now sometimes the top screen goes black. Would melding plastic on the hinge fix this? Am I better to get a new DS? I have an R4, so it did sill get use.

[Anonymous No.3319309]

>>3319304
Sounds like the ribbon cable

[Anonymous No.3319372]

Does the n64 becomes slower when it is dirty/overheating?

[Anonymous No.3319486]

>>3317330
So I got a snes console at the start of the year and it's been working fine up until now. The problem is sometimes when I'm playing a game(OG carts, not roms) the screen will go black, the audio keeps playing but when I reset the console all of my save data is wiped from the cart. Is it a faulty console or could it be something else? Should i take it back and get them to swap it for another one?

[Anonymous No.3319515]

>>3319372
Yeah, it wouldn't hurt to clean it.

[Anonymous No.3319551]

>>3319486
UDATE: I called the snot-nosed faggot at the retro store I bought it from, they were extremely short with me and dismissed any talk of returns with "I'm sorry 30day warranty" "did you google the problem?" "maybe it's just dead cart batteries". Also when I bought it in the first place it came with a milwaukee power cord that didn't even have high enough voltage for the console to work, I had to have them test it before they would even give me a legit nintendo cord. And I may have yelled at him and called him a dodgy kike...

[Anonymous No.3319556]

>>3319551
Sounds like you're a treat to do business with

[Anonymous No.3319567]

>>3319556
M8 I didn't loose my cool until he went full kike mode and then processed to insult my intelligence. I'm only human.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3319570]

>>3319273
>>3318279
>Pier Solar
>Tiido
East European engineering

S-Video modded
Possibly a "prototype" of the crystal clear audio mod or something along those lines.

[Anonymous No.3319668]

>>3319567
Or he only knew what his boss told him and trusts him over some random racist faggot blown in from the street.

[Anonymous No.3319752]

>>3319668
kys Kike

[Anonymous No.3319785]

>>3319486
Clean the cart connector on the console.

[Anonymous No.3319808]

>>3319752
Aww, look, babby is mad.

Poor babby, I know it's not your fault that you're an insufferable failure of a human, it's everyone else's fault, right?

[Anonymous No.3319956]

Quality thread so far.

The rainbow banding and JUST'd headphone port on my model 1 genesis indicates the need to recap. Are there any good videos on the subject? The only two I've found so far is a faggot talking about how great his collection is and a weeaboo showing off the sound from before and after his recap using some touhou shit.

[Anonymous No.3320036]

>>3319956
What do you want to know? Re-capping can help but also some times it makes it worse.

Are you wanting to know how hard it is to re-cap a Sega? It can be a challenge if you don't know anything about electronics and there's a fuck ton of caps 25+ in the model one.

[Anonymous No.3320060]

I have 0 soldering skills and cable making ability. Do you know anyone trustworthy/reliable and how much it costs to have the following done:

- capacitor replacement
- RGB mod with cable (JP21 spec)
- (optional) region mod for card slot
Background story:
I am fortunate my uncle is a hoarder, and never threw out anything, even with the stuff I brought over to his place and left there. So I got these back and I remember a youtube video saying that the capacitors of these machines have a tendency to leak and will need replacing. These have not been turned on for at least a decade, and I am scared to do so now. I abandoned these machines at my uncle's because they couldn't output to the XRGB2 (in RGB) back then, and I now have a framemeister as well. TurboChip games are costly now, and both systems cannot play Japanese HuCards, but that option would be nice. I know there's the Turbo Everdrive and emulation options which may cost less, but I'd really don't want to sell these away since I loved playing these specific things back in my youth. I literally flip burgers for barely over minimum wage, so it'll take a couple months to save up, but I think the mods will be worth it

[Anonymous No.3320065]

>>3320060
I also forgot ...

dreaming big, if I can save up enough ...

-screen replacement with more modern LCD for the Express

[Anonymous No.3320067]

>>3320060
>>3320065
How much are you willing to invest? If money is no question then go it and find some one to do it.

[Anonymous No.3320090]

>>3320067
there's game-tech.us which has been focused on making selling Hi-Def NES for over a year and are not taking any orders alongside a growing backlog (plus I'd love to get one, but last time he sold those systems on eBay for about $400 minimum each). His project for HDMI NES/Famicom means he will not do the mod work anyway at this time.

There's an eBay classified, which sounds great. For just the Duo alone with shipping it may cost me about $240 for just the Duo alone, tack on approximately $85 for the Express (without the major screen mod) ... that makes $325 total, which means I could probably get a SuperGrafx and part of a Super CD-ROM2 attachment for it as well at that price.

So I guess my willingness at this point in time is around $150USD give or take a few due to shipping. At my $8.50 an hour pay rate, after taxes, rent/utilities, food, etc., that's about 3-5 months worth of saving in ideal situations. I know the stuff pictured is worth about $400 if sold, so to me it is not worth selling at this time, as I'd have more value in just playing them on composite until the systems' complete failure then just throw them into the compactor than the $400USD.

[Anonymous No.3320091]

>>3320090
Yeah, there's other, cheaper tecs out there that you could hire for a better price. Reason the price is so high is because the turbo duo is a fucking pain and all the surface mounted caps have to be replaced.

[Anonymous No.3320514]

>>3318284
So how can I tfix this?

[Anonymous No.3320534]

>>3320514
You could start by explaining the issue properly.

What you said makes little to no sense.

[Anonymous No.3320587]

>>3320534
When I set the in-game audio to mono I hear everything. But for some reason when it is set to stereo it won't sound properly as it should. For instance when someone is being attacked on the right side of the screen the sound is very weak (or almost inaudible) but when someone is attacked on the left or the center of the screen the audio is hearable.

[Anonymous No.3320591]

>>3320587
Are you sure it's not your television?

[Anonymous No.3320652]

I picked up a used 101 for cheap recently, going to order a replacement housing because this one is trashed. I see they have 2 types of screen protectors, plastic (I assume) and glass. What's the best? I assume the original was plastic, but just want to know if any anons can recommend the best option.

[Anonymous No.3320984]

>>3320591
Yes, I tested it on another tv, same problem

[Anonymous No.3321023]

anyone ordered from kangarooland to the land of the free and the home of the brave before?

my FM sound board for the SMS says it can take 2-4 weeks to arrive. will i really have to wait up to a month? ):

[Anonymous No.3321057]

I wanna get a PC to run 1992-2000 games, so what is the best build I can get? Should I install 98SE or ME? I already have a Pentium 4 and it's motherboard.

[Anonymous No.3321059]

>>3321057
98se always

me is complete garbage

[Anonymous No.3321105]

I dunno if this is the right place to ask but:

I've got one of these PSP microsd adapters. The thing detects the card just fine while the system is on but if I put it in sleep mode or shut it down I can't get it to come back on. The power light turns green but the screen stays black and there's no sound. I can only get it to turn on with my previous memory stick inserted.

It's a 1001 and I've installed CFW on this thing but I can't remember the specifics or what method I used since it was so far back.

[Anonymous No.3322475]

>>3320591
>>3320984
I tried with a composite cable and a S-video cable but it looks like it has to do with the SCART output. Composite -and S-video's RCA connectors gave sound on all fronts EXCEPT when I put a SCART block on it and then insert it in the SCART output

[Anonymous No.3322491]

>>3321105
those 2slot adapters are almost always a counterfeit of the real thing, plus they were intended to be used not just to double the size, but also to double write speed in cameras hence the name "photofast"

sd cards are big and fast enough now that the simple single slot adapters should be plenty if you plan on replacing it

[Anonymous No.3322905]

>>3320060
Just git gud.
Get a old board from somewhere, a soldering kit and train yourself. This surely won't be the last time you will require soldering skills. I had a dead Xbox lying around I trained myself on it. I applied my powers to switchmod my SNES, chip my PS1 and now planning on RBG moding my famicom and N64.

[Anonymous No.3322952]

Anyone with SNES repro experience?

I wanna make a Star Fox 2 cart and I get the soldering and wiring and getting the right donor cart but I'm stuck on the actual programming part. I don't have a programmer and I wouldn't even know which one to buy. They're also pretty expensive.

Are there any sellers for preprogrammed eeproms? Unless there's a way cheap option to program it myself I don't wanna spend a huge wad for something I'm only doing once or twice.

[Anonymous No.3323194]

Hi /vr/

I have a Game and watch JR-55 (pic related)

I havent played it for many many years (maybe 10 or more years). I Had it for charistmas when i was a kid and loved to play it.

Now i want to replay it but here are stains in the screens (both). I dont want to start it becuase i dont know if the stains th screen cold leak and afect the hardware

what can i do? Is it cleanable? Is it reversible? Can i Play it like that? Or im fuck?

[Anonymous No.3323197]

>>3323194

damn wrong foto

[Anonymous No.3323198]

>>3323194

first image of the stains

[Anonymous No.3323203]

>>3323194

second photo and last one. Sorry for the multi-post/spam. And thanks to any who would help

[Anonymous No.3323205]

>>3322952
I've made plenty. There are plenty of people who will burn chips for you. Some are anal about not doing games. I'll burn any file you send me.
Depending on what part you want to use, what type of computer you have, and whether you feel comfortable dealing with the software and hardware you might be able to use a one as cheap as $25. I've seen people charging $18 to burn a chip so doing it twice you'd come out ahead.

[Anonymous No.3323206]

I'm trying to fix a Sega CD model 2. I replaced the fuse so it would power on but discs don't read and the disc doesn't always spin. I replaced the laser and now it spins reliably but it still doesn't read discs properly. Sometimes I can get a music CD to play for a short time (30-60 seconds) but no games run. I'm presuming the potentiometer on the laser unit needs to be adjusted, is there an easy starting point for adjustments? I don't want to go through the hassle of putting the case back together and connecting my genesis for each millimeter of adjusting, and then disassembling again for further adjustments

[Anonymous No.3323214]

>>3323194
Depends where exactly the stains are. If they're on a layer you can get at easily no problem. If they're further down you're fucked.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3323430]

>>3322952
>>3323205
I'm also interested in the same thing, but have held off for the same general reason. I found somewhere that will supposedly send you pre-programmed chips, but I'm just worried I'll somehow send them the wrong file and and up with a useless eeprom and a torn apart Stunt FX.
Additionally, the site in question only has TSOP packages available new, and I don't know how latency differences on the "used and tested" models available would affect a repro.
Said site: http://www.buyicnow.com/it.php?i=78

[Anonymous No.3323770]

>>3323430
That's a very valid concern. That's why I'll only burn a file someone sends me on a part they specify. I don't want to deal with the shit when they end up with something that doesn't work because they don't know what they're doing. There are people who do all that hand holding. They're called repro makers.
The "latency" is listed next to each of the parts. I'd worry more about being able to solder to it if I were you. I would say being OTP is an issue but the instructions you're following most likely involve removing the legs with a nail clipper and running 10 gauge wire from the stubs to the PCB. So no one is ever going to reprogram whatever part you use anyway.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3323801]

>>3323770
>I'd worry more about being able to solder to it if I were you
The latency concern was to the used DIP packages; I've had a bit of experience soldering in modding a system or two, but I know for a fact there's no way I could manage working with how small the pin pitch is.

I wouldn't want to bother someone personally to burn anything for me for that very reason, but would you have any suggestions on said cheap programmers?
I've seen the GQ-4X recommended elsewhere, but $100 is a tad much for something that I may not use more than a few times.

[Anonymous No.3323995]

>>3322905
I know my limitations, since I am unable to hold anything steady, and I'm definitely not a bright person (as evidenced by my inability to gain money and poor spending habits as you've seen). So getting good is beyond my abilities.

I still have my old WonderMega hooked up via S-video to my CRT TV (I'm that poor, I am still on CRT TVs). It does not do RGB, and requires a mod to do so. Due to some mental deficiency, I just cannot mod it myself. I imagine (since I do not have such experience) it is like a surgeon not operating on their own child to avoid potential errors due to emotional attachments. The WonderMega, I am particularly fond of because many years ago I saved up $250 to buy and import it from Japan just because I loved the look of the system so much from pictures of it in EGM. It has always been hooked up and provided me joy for decades (plural!). Being at peace with myself if I were to botch or destroy it would be difficult, again, possibly my mental handicap.

The TurboDuo is also another part of my past, so the same applies. However unlike the WOnderMEga, where I went and bought the original MD (AV Intelligent System/High-grade multipurpose use ^^) and MegaCD2 just to have RGB recently, there is no simple way to get RGB from the Duo without a mod.

I do also want a RGB mod the WonderMega one day too ^^.

[Anonymous No.3324008]

>>3323801
Yeah, "latency" doesn't get worse as chips get older or something.
I can tell you what a good cheap programmer is. A Willem pcb5. I can also tell you that every kid I've ever recommended it to was overwhelmed by it. You have to set switches and use a printer port and stuff like that. They get a fit of the vapors and swoon. If you think you're up for it then great. Otherwise you do better with a 4x. You could get an 866 but if you actually use it for anything you'll end up replacing. It can't handle a lot of devices you'll need to make larger repros. Unless you want to have a bunch of programmers laying around or loose a lot selling them to upgrade get the right one to begin with.

[Anonymous No.3324038]

>>3323995
>modding a $1000 console

make sure you drill some holes on it for region switching too while you are at it.

[Anonymous No.3324063]

FM sound board came in for the Master System. Wish me luck on soldering because I'm a fucking retard.

[Anonymous No.3324069]

I was gifted a model 1 Sega Genesis VA 3 which was kept in pisspoor shape. It switches on, but only outputs a black screen. I took it apart and cleaned it as well as I could but it didn't fix anything. Any suggestions for what I should check next?

[Anonymous No.3324076]

>>3324063
good luck fucking reatrd

[Anonymous No.3324105]

>>3324038
I think I have seen it go for that much once, but that's only if it is complete with instructions and box. Sadly those got thrown away back in the day. I do not need a region mod since I have a JVC X'eye as well, which believe it or not, I found thrown out in an alleyway (yes, I am so poor I get my gaming systems from alleys). The X'eye actually supports RGB without any mod, the video out port is identical to a Genesis 2 and 32X so uses the same cable.

I believe originally in Japan, a person can send in their original WonderMega to Victor (JVC) for the RGB mod, because I even remembered RGB cables (JP21 of course) for the original Mega Drive back in the day. I just happen to get a WonderMega back then which did not have the mod work done (possibly why I got it at a bargain price in its day).

[Anonymous No.3324114]

>>3324063
>>3324076
how do i know what's +ve or -ve

[Anonymous No.3324121]

>>3324114
I think you see when you desolder the cap that will be replaced with the wires

[Anonymous No.3324184]

>>3324121
i gave up

the heatsink's screw is in a fucked up spot where i can't get a good grip to turn it and it's thermal pasted to fuck.

that and i don't know how to solder. i don't wanna fuck up my only master system atm.

[Anonymous No.3324524]

>>3323214
thanks, i'll dig into the possibilities

[Anonymous No.3324631]

>>3324184
M8 I can't solder for shit too but I let my father do it. I'll try to make a pic of where the wires should be connected.

[Anonymous No.3324646]

>>3324114

[Anonymous No.3324689]

>>3324631
>>3324184
My phone's camera is shit but maybe you can make out where it's supposed to be.

otherwise you should just look at this >>3324646

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325026]

>>3324008
Well shit.
I wouldn't mind having to set different dip switches and the like, but anything I have around here still sporting a parallel port is trash and unusable.
The worry isn't a matter of latency getting worse, just one of a chip with higher or lower latency than the one I originally found the link for(100ns) possibly mucking things up.

[Anonymous No.3325156]

>>3324038
>I pay ebay BIN prices

>>3325026
The interface, power, and software have a big impact on ease of use/convenience. I have my main PCB5 at the workbench with an old XP machine that does pretty much nothing but burn eproms and run old tools. I also use a G540 because it's a pure USB programmer so I can just plug it into to laptop. An 866 is a better alternative to this and will handle the part you want to use now. It won't handle something like a 27c322 which I can pretty much guarantee you'll want to use in the future.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325319]

>>3325156
When I say trash, I mean literally non-functioning and garbage. Any older PCs I had laying around which did have parallel connectors had their CPUs or something else go.

Thinking about it now though, this WOULD give me a good excuse to get a dock for my old r60 Thinkpad R60. Dock would solve certain power issues, and give me the required ports.

Hell, I might even be able to test out the ati x600 I bought last year for 15khz RGB.

[Anonymous No.3325349]

>>3324631
>>3324646
i did end up fucking it up somehow. it just plays no sound now and i have it just like in your pic etc.

ordered another master system and i'm not going to try again. fuck my life.

[Anonymous No.3325524]

>no parallel port
Why not just get one of those PCI-express expansion cards to give yourself a port?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325628]

>>3325524
I thought of that, but it cam to mind that perhaps there's some weird incompatibility with them since you(or at least I) never see them brought up in these situations.

[Anonymous No.3325692]

>>3325319
That should work fine. I use an old notebook with a dock for one of my old copiers that has software that needs an ECP port on the old addresses. Personally I prefer to use a separate machine for each job. Since the price is $0-$50 the only issue is space.

[Anonymous No.3325712]

>>3325524
Because it probably won't work
Because it probably won't work even if it specifically says it will
Because even if you get it to work you'll probably spend more time than it would take to wirewrap your own system with a built in parallel port
Because an old PC costs less than the card

Aside from that can't think of any reason.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325881]

>>3325692
So would you say a PCB5 would be a decent thing to pick up for this then? I see an absolutely stupid number of what I assume are third party/chinese copies all over ebay for ~$35 or so shipped.

[Anonymous No.3325918]

>>3323203

anyone with any more ideas please??

[Anonymous No.3325952]

>>3325881
The PCB5 is the best low cost all around programmer hands down. Anyone can make them. It's not rocket science and I have a no name Chinese one as well as a Sivava and have never had a problem with either. $35 is the standard price. If that includes cables even better.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325972]

>>3325952
Good shit.

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.3326135]

New to /vr/ here.

I recently started playing on my N64 again, after having not touched it in years. It still works, but I can't play it for more than an hour before it stops working. I'm 99% sure it's overheating.

What's the best way to clean it? Do I have to open up the case, and if so, what kind of screwdriver do I need?

[Anonymous No.3327151]

>>3324063
me here again

someone else posted they bought this same board and have the same model master system and they aren't getting sound either

SO maybe it wasn't my fucking fault after all

[Anonymous No.3327164]

>>3326135

Probably cheaper to just get a new one. The screwdriver set is most likely more expensive.

[Anonymous No.3327182]

>>3327164
Where do you live that n64s are less than $2?

[Anonymous No.3327187]

>>3326135
have you tried... looking at the screws?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3327219]

>>3326135
The outside of the console uses gamebit security screws. to be specific, the 4.5mm variety. That and a phillips screw driver is all you need to take a N64 down to just the bare board, but I'd suggest picking up a 3.8mm bit as well since you'll likely end up needing it for something in the long run.

[Anonymous No.3327334]

>>3327219

Can you find those at a hardware store, or am I going to have to order them online?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3327881]

>>3327334
Online.
Shouldn't be anymore than $10-15 for both gamebits, and possibly a triwing as well.

[Anonymous No.3328139]

Does anyone have guides on how to dismantle a Nintendo Game and Watch JR-55 (double screen)?

or tutorials on how to clean it

[Anonymous No.3328303]

>>3328139

Put no atenttion to this, already found the problem and solution. thanxs

[Anonymous No.3328450]

>>3327182
>Be me
>Go to local thrift store looking for a CRT to pick up
>Finds an SNES deck with an official power brick
>powers on, but can't test the video due to no game or AV cable anywhere
>Take the risk and pick it up, only paid six bucks
>Pick up a cheap copy of Pac Man 2 and off-brand AV cables from a different store
>Take it home, excited as fuck
>NO SIGNAL
>mfw

Too good to be true. So, how fucked am I? Is there an reputable service online somewhere I can send it off to be repaired? I have no soldering skills whatsoever.

[Anonymous No.3328560]

>>3328450
Before you attempt to solder anything clean the game and the pin connector in the console. Also check the pins to make sure they're not fucked

[Anonymous No.3328619]

>>3328560
>clean the game and the pin connector in the console
What do I need to give it a proper clean?

[Anonymous No.3328648]

I have a SNES that was bought about 3 years ago. Currently, I have 2 issues with it.
1. The catridge connector is loose and I need to put a piece of carboard so the catridge doesnt move. If I dont do that, the game will never boot because is tilted to the front.

2. It isnt much of a issue but still. My snes is the original usa one, not the mini. However, its rf adapter is missing. I believe because it was refurbished by the seller or something. I know that in the snes, if you remove the rf modulator, you need to amplify the video signal or something like that. Does the snes needs something else? I kinda sense that this snes console is kinda off on something but I dont know what. Probably a fake from inside?

[Anonymous No.3328823]

So I just got a laseractive with the sega module. It all works, and I plan to recap it. Where do I go for the capacitors? Do I buy a kit form somewhere, or piece them out myself?

[Anonymous No.3328859]

>>3328619
qtips and rubbing alcohol is good for cleaning the pins on cartridges.

With the console you'll probably have to open the thing up to get a good look at the pins. A utility knife can be useful for picking out hair and crumbs and shit that get lost in there and also for bending and tightening pins.

[Anonymous No.3328871]

>>3328859
Oh sorry x-acto* knife. Anything sufficiently flat that it can get in the slot without bending the pins would work but x-acto knives are easy to work with.

[Anonymous No.3328907]

Hi guys my super Famicoms have this problem where there is a diagonal wave interference pattern over the picture which is more obvious sometimes than others. I know it's not: the console, the scart cable, the sync (csync makes no difference). Any ideas? Not the kind of thing you can get a good picture of unfortunately

[Anonymous No.3329043]

I realize this is skirting the line of what's considered "retro", but I have a slim PS2 that refuses to read DVDs of any kind.

CDs and PSX/PS2 CD games work great and are recognized in seconds. Any kind of movie DVD or game (single or double layer) just sits at "reading disc" for about 30 seconds before giving me the disc read error. I originally thought it was the laser, but I replaced it with a brand new exact match part and it still behaves exactly the same. I made sure that every cable was connected securely but I can't find anything wrong with it (yes I removed the solder blob). It's a 70000 series and I feel like I'm missing something very obvious. Every online guide says to clean the laser lens or replace the laser or tape down the door sensor or some bullshit, none of these are my problem as far as I can tell. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3330250]

>>3328823
>look on mouser for 10uf ceramic surface mount capacitors
>over 300 options

I was hoping this would be easier. All the cap kits I see online are not ceramic.

[Anonymous No.3332159]

>>3328450
No signal on an SNES is not usually such a bad sign (as opposed to a solid black screen, which could mean a bad CPU). No signal is usually just due to a dirty cartridge slot or bad reset button. You only need to know how to solder if you need to replace the reset button. Cleaning the cartridge slot though just requires a 4.5mm gamebit driver to open the console and some isopropyl alcohol. The screws inside are all Phillips.

[Anonymous No.3332174]

>>3327151
got my new master system in the mail (because i obvs can't solder or something so i lost that cap and have no sound now)

it was a 2.4 bios with hang-on and safari hunt. swapped it into the old one's casing and we're good to go. :)

not attempting fm sound ever again.

[Anonymous No.3332180]

>>3317330
I picked up a copy of one of the special Gyromites with the Famicom Adapters for a solid good price.

I'm looking to mod the cart into a proper adapter that doesn't require I disassemble Famicom carts to play them. Does anyone have some advice/techniques/guides for this or am I on my own?

>>3328823
>>3330250
Support your local electronic store anon. A reasonable electronics store should have bins and bins of caps that you can buy for a couple cents each. Unless you're going to be recapping a bunch of consoles it would be a waste of money to buy in bulk off the Internet, for then you would a ton of caps you'll never use lying around the house.

[Anonymous No.3332202]

>>3332180
>Support your local electronic store anon
I legitimately do not have one.

[Anonymous No.3332216]

>>3332180
>Support your local electronic store anon.
bruh that would've been possible even just 15 years ago. now? nah. no way.

[Anonymous No.3332676]

I finally pulled the trigger on this copy of Madara to make my reproduction cart of Castlevania 3 with Famicom accurate audio. It comes with the outer box but nothing else, and the box is in pretty terrible condition so I don't think any collectors will cry for it (it was only $13 and I'd been watching it for about a month). I also bought a black NES cartridge and a slim Famicom to NES converter board, so hopefully I can fit it all inside without having to cut anything. The last remaining pieces to this puzzle will be buying the EPROM chips and wiring up my NES for the audio expansion compatibility.

In the potential event that I have to shave off some of the cartridge shell to make the two PCBs fit inside (Madara's PCB is bigger than most Famicom games, including Castlevania 3's due to having a battery backup) I might cover the exposed section of PCB with a piece of smoked acrylic. I could potentially even stick a little red LED inside so that the the PCB lights up under the window when it's turned on in if I want to make it more extravagant, but my preference would be to not make any visible modifications to the shell and to just have a nice clean looking black NES cartridge. I'll be able to see how well everything fits once the Madara cart and the adapter board arrive from Asia.

[Anonymous No.3332693]

>>3318279
You really gotta admire just how much engineering went into Pier Solar. It was a very impressive undertaking both from a software and hardware perspective. If it had came out in 1994 it would have been a really big deal, although being a big new game for a "dead" console is a pretty big deal too.

[Anonymous No.3332716]

Is the Weller WESD51 a good soldering station for a beginner?

[Anonymous No.3332747]

>>3332716
For the price I'm seeing on Amazon? Save some money and buy something else. I got this monster soldering station for only $60, and right now it's onsale for only $43.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DQQ4XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great and it has a hot air gun, which is useful for desoldering surface mount components (but don't use hot air on anything with a plastic base like certain capacitors-- I learned that the hard way).

[Anonymous No.3332768]

>>3332747
That's way too good to be true-
>the very first review
Oh god. Yep. My instincts were right.

[Anonymous No.3332782]

>>3332768
All I can give you is my first hand experience with it. I've been using it for a little over a month and I haven't had any problems with it at all.

[Anonymous No.3332786]

>>3332782
Anon, quality control issues mean there's a chance it works great and a chance it burns my fucking house down.

[Anonymous No.3332791]

>>3332786
You should never leave a solder station turned on when unattended. Soldering irons are inherently dangerous and there are safety precautions and best practices that should always be taken when using them. That particular station only takes a few seconds to fully heat up anyway so there's no reason to leave it turned on.

[Anonymous No.3332797]

>>3332791
Anon that has nothing to do with whether using a soldering iron with QC problems is a good idea...

Besides, using a soldering iron with QC problems is like driving a car with a design flaw in the airbags: it's not a good idea to do it if you can avoid it.

I'm not the anon you originally replied to so no need for reciting pages of safety manuals.

[Anonymous No.3332906]

My Genesis exhibits rainbow banding to a minor extent and I've noticed that getting in and out of water in Sonic 3 and Knuckles makes the system spazz out. It's always accompanied with some slowdown and sometimes accompanied by a split-second flash of white on the screen.

This could just be my connectors being what they are - I pulled the fur of no fewer than three cats out of that thing and the slot is a bit loose. The other day I got an illegal instruction error code in Sonic 2 that I can only guess was the fault of that because I couldn't replicate the error. But does anyone else have any ideas? It's a model one HD without the lockout chip, I have no clue as to the specifics of the system.

The headphone jack is also borked so I suspect it could be capacitors giving me grief, but I can't say one way or another.

[Anonymous No.3332956]

>>3332716
I would say so, it's what I started on. Oh, and on the off chance you aren't 200% clear on the importance of tip maintenance, a fucked up tip makes a 500 dollar soldering station perform like a 20 dollar Chinese special. You might want some extras as backups, especially chisel tips. Gives you some options on heat application.

[Anonymous No.3332995]

So my laseractive has shitty video. Even when just playing back LD movies with no PAC plugged in. The video looks like i'm watching slightly cross-eyed.
What usually causes this issue?

[Anonymous No.3333010]

I just got this little beauty from McWill, but unfortunately I can't install it in my Game Gear right now because my house is upside down getting ready for the big 4th of July barbecue. I probably won't get a chance to sit down and solder until Tuesday, but the manufacturing on it at least looks really nice from what I can see.

I've also got a glass screen lens that's going to go over the finished product. If I can get the speaker out of the front of the case, I will probably give the whole thing a good washing too.

I want to add the VGA out connector too, but I might save that project for later. I need to find some documentation about the best way to cut out the hole, and I also want to make sure that the connector won't interfere with being able to slide the system in and out of my carry case.

[Anonymous No.3333624]

>>3332747
For whatever it's worth, I also have this exact same station but under a different brand name. I've been using it for about 6 months with no problems. I got it for about $40 shipped so even if it fails tomorrow I still got more than my money's worth.

[Anonymous No.3333678]

>>3332995
Damnit, and I was just looking at a site the other week that had all kinds of info on the various ways LD video goes wrong, and of course now I can't fucking find it. If I recall, it's a sign of your LD player taking a shit, specifically the laser.

[Anonymous No.3333797]

>>3333678
I just checked, and It still happens with cartridges. Looks like it isn't the laser.
I'll have a look at the insides and see if anything is obviously wrong.

[Anonymous No.3333801]

>>3333010
what is this anon

[Anonymous No.3334287]

>>3333801
Replacement LCD screen with a built in scaler chip and VGA output.

[Anonymous No.3335642]

>>3332906
Wrap a thin cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol around a credit card and insert it and remove it a few times in the cartridge slot.

As for capacitors, the ones that go bad first are usually the electrolytic capacitors, the cylindrical ones, which will either have burst or have a swollen rather than a smooth top.

But this is a stock response, and I'm not sure what you mean by "rainbow banding." Post a picture anon.

[Anonymous No.3335986]

>>3333797
Damn, wish I could find that website. They explained exactly what caused that effect. Sorry man.

>>3335642
Rainbow banding is a repeated pattern of rainbow colors that tends to impose itself over everything. It's most easily noticeable with flat color backgrounds, most people tend to use one of the Sonic games to look for it.

This is a picture showing the rainbow banding on the left.

[Anonymous No.3336006]

>>3333797
FOUND THE WEBSITE!
http://www.blam1.com/LaserDisc/FAQ/FAQ_Hardware.htm
Not sure if it's fixable, but this has pretty much all info on issues with LD's.

[Anonymous No.3336097]

>>3335986
This sums it up, but the banding isn't nearly as severe on this system.

[Anonymous No.3336119]

I have a SNES that turns on for like half a second, then turns back off, I need to wait like 2 minutes before trying again or else it won't turn on.

I don't think this is a fuse problem, what else could be causing this issue? I have some spare SNES that I can use to take pieces, but not sure which piece should I blame and change.

[Anonymous No.3338689]

hey /vr/


one of my carts (FFIII for the SNES) keeps resetting. The FFIII logo appears, it plays about 1 second of the opening cutscene and then restarts. If I'm quick enough I can get to the load menu, but if I try to load a file it just restarts. Also 2 of my saves dissapeared

I assume the battery died, but how come one save file survived? And is the resetting issue related to the battery dying?

[Anonymous No.3338692]

>>3336119
sounds like you fried it at some point, what model is it and which region?

[Anonymous No.3338702]

>>3338689
Check the cart PCB for actual damage. Like a busted cap or a break in the PCB itself. If just the battery was dead, it just wouldn't keep saves. Restarting sounds like there's some electrical crosstalk or a short circuit somewhere. The only way to check is to look.

[Anonymous No.3339207]

Tried installing a backlight mod for my Gameboy pocket but accidentally snapped the ribbon cable off.
Is it completely fucked? Into the trash it goes?
Feeling really down right now. Peeling the sticker from behind the original LCD was an extremely tedious job and I spent countless hours trying to get rid of the residue. And now that I thought everything was alright, the fucking ribbon cable snapped.

[Anonymous No.3339479]

>>3339207
You could repair the ribbon on the Gb Pocket, the "wires" are spaced enough to try a repair.
In short words, you have to scrape away the plastic film from the little flat wires, you use a fine tipped solder iron, ideally not more than 50W, flux, solder and tiny wires, solid core 30AWG or less, don't even bother if you never took a soldering iron in your hand, you need at least some experience in soldering. You can try conductive pen repairs but are hit or miss, sometimes they work, more often not, but are more accessible. You snapped it completely in half? Than it's a really challenging repair, and, with all due respect, I dont' think that a person that accidentaly snapped a ribbon cable can repair it. It's a shame, however, because the old "fat" IDE-style ribbon cables on the big Gameboy are much more easy to repair and one can even make a replacement from a strand of solid core wires. You can, however, try to find a replacement screen to

[Anonymous No.3339487]

>>3339479
replace the ribbon entirely, or the screen all together, much more accesible.

[Anonymous No.3339731]

I don't have a problem, but I'm just curious if anyone else has encountered a cartridge so grimy and corroded that you had to bust out a razor blade to scrap it all off the contacts? Because I just did. I'm surpised how that, combined with an eraser buffering and an alcohol spit-shine made the contacts looking nearly like new.

[Anonymous No.3340028]

>>3339479
>>3339487
Thanks for the help. Replacing the screen altogether would seem like the wisest option but that would require using another GBP as a donor, right? They don't sell replacement LCDs anywhere I take it?

[Anonymous No.3340240]

>>3339731
I've seen worst. Never was so short on proper tools that I need to use a razor. I have had to replate the edge connector because pins were rusted away.

[Anonymous No.3340260]

i realize it's not retro but maybe you guys can help me out


when i was like 12 i broke the screen to this guy. im having a hard time figuring out which screen replacement i would need to buy. (I forget if this was before or after the revamped lcd screen) Maybe yall can point me in the right direction?

[Anonymous No.3341195]

>>3340260
I also have a GBA problem. (Battery replacement in emulation cart.) Anyone know where I should go to get answers? Only place I can think of is...reddit...

[Anonymous No.3341530]

>>3338692
SNS-CPU-GPM-02

NTSC

[Anonymous No.3341791]

>>3341530
Your cartridge slot looks rusty as fuck on the outside, but I can't really tell about the pins. Capacitor 57 looks like it's swelling a bit on the top. Give us more photos, let us help you.

>>3340260
Google. Check your model. Bound to be a guide somewhere online if you bother to look, GBA is one of the more mapped out handhelds out there.

>>3341195
>(Battery replacement in emulation cart.)
? You mean a flashcart of some kind? A repro? Speak english motherfucker!

[Anonymous No.3341873]

>>3341791
It's an EZ Flash IV. Should replacing the battery be just like replacing one in a Pokemon cart?

[Anonymous No.3341985]

>>3340028
I don't know exactly about GBP, I've worked only one time on it, but I know about the GBC, and you can find some replacement parts in the usual online places, I've never tried locally because I live in Italy and it's pretty much impossible to find something where I live, electronics-wise. But, yes, the simplest way seems to find a donor GBP, possibly one with a thrashed PCB (corroded by battery acid or with a fucked cartridge connector) so you pay less. Here in Italy GBPs are less common than GBCs, so I would try a repair, but probably were you live it's different. But don't give up! Everything is more or less repairable if it's not FUBAR, these electronics were designed in a time were it was still possible to repair something without expensive tools, maybe a little more complex than "thorugh hole" but still serviceable.

[Anonymous No.3342012]

>>3341873
AFAIK EZ Flash IV has a CR2025 *IF* it's one that doesn't have a rechargeable battery, so the same battery used on GBC Pokémon carts, you can even use a CR2032, same voltage but a bit fatter and it will last a bit longer. It's best to buy one with the correct terminals, because soldering wires/terminals on the steel jacket of the battery it's a bit a PITA, however it's not impossibile, I've done it many times, it's only tedious and ugly, but it will work the same.

[Anonymous No.3342036]

>>3342012
Thank you so much. My problem was getting the terminal/connector dealies to get on there properly. I'll try it again now

[Anonymous No.3342048]

>>3341873
Should being the key word here, but yes. Unless it's a rechargable like >>3342012 says. Finding a replacement rechargable might be a bit harder.

[Anonymous No.3342068]

>>3342036
Mind that there are thousands of possible terminals for button-style batteries, some of them are exactly the same, but with inverse polarity, I don't know what's worse: trying to find the correct battery package browsing pics over pics on ebay/amazon/aliexpress or trying to stick a wire on a normal CR20xx bought near home on a day where nothing goes the right way.

On a side note, if you disassemble the flashcart the battery is labeled, so you are sure which version is.

[Anonymous No.3342076]

>>3342068
Protip: CR20xx are normal batteries, ML20xx are rechargeables

[Anonymous No.3342216]

I have two snes's with issues.

One suddenly displays image in black and white, but only on S-Video and Composite, not through RGB.

And the other one just won't transmit any sound at all.

[Anonymous No.3342217]

>>3342216
S-Video

[Anonymous No.3342219]

>>3342217
RGB

[Anonymous No.3342245]

>>3342216
what about RF?

[Anonymous No.3342257]

>>3342216
>>3342217
>>3342219
Welp, sounds like you need to trace the connection from the video encoder to the A/V multiout connector for the s-video and ground lines. And from the APU to the A/V multiout for the one with the sound issue. Pray it's just a bad solder joint that went down, or a cap somewhere that is going down, otherwise you may need a multimeter to hunt down the issue.

[Anonymous No.3342263]

>>3342257
>APU
damnit, I'm thinking NES again. I meant the SPC.

[Anonymous No.3342264]

>>3342217
>>3342216
I'm almost 100% sure it's the encoder chip. It seems the chroma/color trace from the chip has been severed somewhere and since composite is derived from combining chroma and luma together it's similarly affected. I think RF should be affected as well.

[Anonymous No.3342275]

Here's an issue for you all. I've got 2 PS1s, the later models. 1 doesn't recognize a memory card has been inserted in to slot 1, and the other has a dark, wavy image that eventually gets better, but takes a while. Any idea what would be causing these issues? I've been considering using the one with the jacked up signal for parts, but I'm in no rush and would like some opinions before I do anything drastic.

[Anonymous No.3342284]

>>3342257
If the RGB signal is working great then that means the signal that is going to the encoder chip is okay. That just leaves the wires and components that are after the encoder chip, specifically the ones for S-Video/Composite. I'm betting it's just a severed trace. Worst case it might be someone's attempt at an mod and they completely jacked up the board but it might just be a simple case of corrosion.

[Anonymous No.3342295]

Anybody have experience troubleshooting Famicom Disk System? I'm trying to fix one up. I replaced the belt and corrected the alignment based on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOY1G3Sg11Q

But it still doesn't work properly. For one, the drive always thinks a disk is inserted. I presume that's based on one of the hardware switches on the PCB, but I'm not sure which. They all seem to be in proper places.If I boot it up with a disk inserted it sometimes loads (but once it prompts for a disk flip it's done for), or gives me an error 21. Sometimes it'll just go to black (as if it loaded) and after several seconds pop back with error 27. I like to think I'm slightly closer to getting it working (wouldn't even try to read before and the head alignment was all jacked up) but I'm looking for any advice that can put me on the right track.

[Anonymous No.3342302]

>>3342245
I don't have the RF cable to check.

>>3342257
>>3342264
>>3342284
There doesn't seem to be any mod attempted, this is a SNS-CPU-GPM-02 btw.

I also forgot to mention that this doesn't always happens, sometimes it works fine, and some other times I get this issue.

I'll check for broken traces or bad soldier joints.

Could this also be caused due to a bad cap?

[Anonymous No.3342320]

>>3342275
>1 doesn't recognize a memory card has been inserted in to slot 1
Sounds like cracked solder joints. I would try laying down some fresh solder. While you're doing that you can do the same for the controller ports since they probably have similar problems.

>the other has a dark, wavy image that eventually gets better, but takes a while
It sounds like one of the power caps *might* be dead, not completely certain though. It's probably one of the larger ones.

[Anonymous No.3342340]

>>3342302
It might also just be the multi-out cable that's why I suggested trying the RF as well. The multi-out plug might not be making a good connection. You can use any RCA cable for the RF with one of those coax adapters if you have one, except for the SNES mini which lacks the RF modulator.

[Anonymous No.3342354]

>>3342302
>Could this also be caused due to a bad cap?
It's possible. I would worry about that after you've eliminated broken traces or the multi-out cable itself first though.

[Anonymous No.3342384]

>>3342284
I'm not worried about signal going to the chip, its signal coming off the chip that might be the issue. The S-ENC, or S-RGB(depending on model of SNES) chip breaks video down to composite, chroma and luma for S-video, and RGB and I think it may give a c-sync signal as well, all of which gets routed to the right pins on the multiout. If there's a problem between the chip and multiout, he could very well get clean RGB but have issues with s-video and composite.

>>3342264
It might be internal to the chip, the S-ENC/S-RGB spits composite out of a different pin than chroma and luma.

[Anonymous No.3342409]

>>3342384
Yeah I got ahead of myself, the encoder chip generates a composite signal that is completely separate from the s-video. It is possible the chip could have a problem as well. Hopefully that's not the case.

I did notice that apparently Chroma out and Composite out are quite close to each other on the S-ENC encoder chip. They're pins 6 and 7 respectively so it's still possible that they were severed somewhere.

[Anonymous No.3342428]

>>3342302
I did a quick search on google and found this possible solution:

>I just fixed my SNES with this problem, monochrome output on composite and S-video. Occasionally some color would appear. It was due to the master clock crystal frequency drifting slightly with age. To fix, use gamebit driver to open SNES case, remove just screws holding metal shield over circuit board (leave power switch in place, as you don't want it shorting with board), then reconnect SNES to TV and put game in, power on, observe monochrome output, then slightly adjust the small screw in the red component near the front. Mine had to be turned slightly counter-clockwise, but try both directions. Once you find a position that works, turn it more to find where it stops working, then turn it back so that it's not right at the edge of working. This fixed the color on mine and now it works fine.

You might as well try it

[Anonymous No.3342441]

>>3342409
Eh well thinking about that again, if the composite was severed it would probably normally show nothing nevermind.

[Anonymous No.3342442]

I'm putting a 1800mah battery in my old gg battery pack. it charged and is working but i haven't tested play time yet. I still have to heatshrink and solder the wiring and get normal screws for the case. fuck those weird security screws. I used nicd because i read the time based chargers wouldn't charge it enough.

[Anonymous No.3342451]

>>3342442
*charge nimh enough

[Anonymous No.3342868]

>>3342320
Thanks. I'll try that out.

[Anonymous No.3344107]

>>3342442
>fuck those weird security screws
>https://smile.amazon.com/trigram-triwing-Security-Screwdriver-Nintendo/dp/B01ECGHJX8
Alternatively you could use the bic pen trick to create a ghetto screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.3344601]

>>3344107
its not a triwing or the standard cart/console reverse torx security screw, I have all those. It looks like a thick flat head screwdriver tip, I had to grind a pair of needle nose pliers down. to get it apart (probably could find the right bit but I didn't want to wait.

[Anonymous No.3344702]

Have modded my pal megadrive 2 for 60 hz and region switching.

Now I need to do the color fix, but not sure which way to go.

I plan to use this machine with an ntsc 32x, so should I mod it for pal 60 or full ntsc ?

Or maybe it doesn't matter which way?

[Anonymous No.3345868]

So I found a miracle piano for $9 at the thrift store today (this picture is not the one I have). I still had the NES cartridge and adapter cable from when I was a kid, but unfortunately this piano I picked up has no printed inlay over the function buttons-- I'm pretty sure most people wouldn't even recognize it just seeing it at a glance, but I did.

Does anyone have any recommendations for getting a replacement inlay? I checked eBay but no dice. I know a site that does custom arcade machine control overlays with polycarbonate laminate, but I'd need a high quality image of the inlay before I could even consider printing up a replacement, or at least something I can use for reference to design a replacement.

[Anonymous No.3347458]

>>3342428
After checking for broken traces or blown capacitors, I tried this and surprisingly it worked, thanks yo.

Now for the other snes that has no sound, I opened it up and found out it is a 1chip-01 model, and the S-MIX chip seems to be busted.

I've searched on google and I found out that this chip likes to blow up, and the only solucion is to replace or bypass it.

Anybody knows how to bypass this chip and take the sound directly from the sound chip?

[Anonymous No.3347494]

>>3347458
You could build your own amp using a LM324 or two LM358 (these ICs are standard).
Here are the schematics:
http://wiki.superfamicom.org/snes/show/Schematics,+Ports,+and+Pinouts
You could build your replacement on a breadboard.

>Anybody knows how to bypass this chip and take the sound directly from the sound chip?
Not a good idea. The resulting sound could be very quiet (you get very strong 15khz buzz from the video signals when you raise the volume on the TV). There will be no protection and the DAC could get damaged later
Also the external sound inputs (needed for Super Gameboy) are getting mixed there.

[Anonymous No.3347505]

>>3347458
Sorry man, but the S-MIX is some sort of unique audio mixer and amp, and there doesn't seem to be any replacements out there. On the plus side, all it really does is mix in audio from the cart and expansion port with the audio coming off the DAC, so you might be able to get away with bypassing it altogether. L and R come off of the DAC, which will probably be a 6379A. Pinout here: http://console5.com/wiki/UPD6379

The only problem I can think of is I don't know if the audio that comes off the DAC is ready to go directly to output or if it needs some sort of filtering. Only way to know is to try. And of course, if a game uses mixed audio from the cart, you'll notice a lot of sound missing, but I have no idea how common or uncommon that is.

[Anonymous No.3347873]

Just got a light sixer from the flea market. Got it scrubbed up, it works, even if the controllers are gonna need some love.

In order to get it into my AV setup, which is all composite, I decided to cheap out and pull the VCR out of the closet and use it as a modulator. I can get tape footage off the composite out, and the atari works with coax. But when I try to see the atari through the VHS, nothing. I've tried wiggling the CH2/CH3, I've tried going to every channel under the sun on both the TV side and the VCR side, and I've tried two VCRs. Am I forgetting something stupid obvious? I haven't touched my VCR in 15 years, and haven't set one up in 25.

[Anonymous No.3348105]

>>3347873
Got any pics of the VCR's?

[Anonymous No.3348119]

>>3318167
Honestly, buy a used SP for $40 on cragislist and have a bunch of spare parts

[Anonymous No.3348126]

>>3348105
this is the vcr, via google

the left column is labelled line out, the right is labelled line in-1, the top coax is ant. in, the bottom is tv out

I had the channel switch set to 3

[Anonymous No.3348181]

>>3348126
Probably a stupid question, but are you using the Composite RCA to hook it to your setup? You will need to switch to your AV input on the TV and not a channel

[Anonymous No.3348192]

>>3348181
I think he said he was. He could get VHS to come over composite, and the Atari over Coax, but for some reason the Atari wouldn't get picked up on composite.

[Anonymous No.3348229]

>>3348181
>>3348192
Exactly. Two VCRs did this. I went ahead and tested straight through on this TV via coax, and while it looks absolutely unholy bad compared to my other TV, it does work.

[Anonymous No.3348408]

>>3348181
I had it on the correct composite input, and changed channels on the VCR itself.

[Anonymous No.3348443]

I know this isn't retro but this is the only place I could think of that could help me out with this.

I recently found my mother's copy of fire red and I desperately want to make a backup of the data so I don't lose it. I've been googling around but all the topics I'm reading are about emulators and not a physical copy.

[Anonymous No.3348450]

>>3348443
Your google-fu sucks then.
https://www.google.com/#safe=off&q=gameboy+save+dumper

[Anonymous No.3348478]

>>3348450
Well I'm a retard. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I really appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.3348480]

>>3348478
Of course, the next time your retarded ass needs help with something, you're gonna run screaming to a message board again like a helpless child instead of fucking Googling it.

[Anonymous No.3348489]

>>3348478
No problem.

>>3348480
Ease up buddy, he probably wasn't aware of dumpers and was googling how to back up saves or something equally worthless.

[Anonymous No.3348663]

So, I'm a bit closer to getting my FC audio Castlevania 3 English reproduction cart made up. Today I got the donor Famicom cart with the VRC6 chip from eBay. One of the bigger challenges with this project will be to fit the PCB inside of the cart, since the VRC6 chip gets in the way of the grippy tab and keeps it from closing.

The most common solution to this kind of problem is to remove the plastic on the cartridge, but instead of that I'm going to try desoldering the VRC6 chip, and soldering it to a ribon cable bridge on the other side of the board. where I can tuck it away. I want to keep the outside of the cartridge looking nice and tidy. This would all be easier if I was using Akumajo Densetsu as a donor cart, but I didn't want to destroy one for this mod and it's also a fairly expensive game (I paid $13 + shipping for this cart).

I've got the pin adapter on the way in the mail from China. My first order of business will be to get everything fitted inside of the plastic cartridge without changing out the ROM chips. Then, after I can confirm that the original game works after the aforementioned modifications, I will order the hacked Castlevania 3 EEPROM chips and swap them in.

Wiring up the NES for VRC6 audio should be easy. It only involves adding one resistor to the NES.

[Anonymous No.3348672]

I already showed this off in the Retro Handhelds thread, but I installed a McWill replacement LCD inside of my Sega Game Gear a few days ago. The picture quality is razor sharp and the colors and contrast blow the original screen away. It was a bit of a pain to install but well worth it.

[Anonymous No.3348682]

>>3348672
Here's a slightly better look at the screen. Top image is regular, bottom is with scanlines enabled.

I would say if you're going to try this mod, don't do it unless you have a hot air stylus. I found it to be a real life saver for removing and re-applying some of those tiny surface mount components. You will also need some very fine tweezers.

[Anonymous No.3349105]

>>3348682
Isn't the ratio fucked up on these things?

[Anonymous No.3349618]

>>3349105
The aspect ratio is not 1:1 integer scaling on the default setting because the GG uses an unusual resolution and pixel aspect ratio. The mod compensates for this by using a scaler processor. In many games you will notice a "swimming" effect during scrolling, but I didn't find it to be bad, and you have options to compensate for it, like enabling horizontal integer scaling (which causes a little bit of cutoff on the sides of the screen, but allows for smooth horizontal scrolling). You can also enable 1:1: xy integer scaling, although this causes the top and bottom of the screen to be cut off and makes sprites in a lot of games look taller than the developers intended. There is also 1:1 native resolution with no scaling which makes the image a small square in the middle of the screen.

In my opinion the scaling issue is a tradeoff. On the original screen, everything looks blurry and washed out, even when there is no movement. You can barely see individual pixels because there's so little clarity. On the replacement screen, on the other hand, the black levels and contrast are amazing and everything looks razor sharp. Instead of the original screen's horrible ghosting, you may notice some pixel swimming. In my opinion the tradeoff is well worth it. There's really no comparison between the two screens in terms of quality.

Replacement screens for the GG are limited by the resolutions that are available for modern LCD screens. Re-creating an exact match for the original GG screen could cost tens of millions of dollars. In terms of screen size, McWill was able to get pretty darned close, and the engineering to put a scaler chip inside the GG is very impressive. The only way I could see a better option showing up is if someone gets an OLED screen cut to size that's just the right resolution for accurate integer scaling, but that could be the difference between a mod that costs $100 and a mod that costs $200 or more.

[Anonymous No.3349651]

>>3349618
Also, the increased resolution has the added benefit of making Master System games much more playable on the system than on the original screen. There is no detail lost or blurred out, so it's actually quite viable to play entire Master System games on the GG, especially if you have an Everdrive.

[Anonymous No.3349736]

>>3347873
Just in case you overlooked it, there are two coax connectors on VCRs. Make sure you plug the Atari into "ANT IN" instead of "ANT OUT".

[Anonymous No.3349973]

>>3322475
>>3320984
>>3320591
>>3320587
>>3320534
>>3320514
>>3318284
Apperently it had to do with the scart port. For some reason the first didn't properly gave sound on all fronts but the second did. The other TV was probally not such a good one.

[Anonymous No.3352282]

I want to do a Nes RGB mod on my top loader NES, but before spending 136 AUS dollars (quite a lot in my country) I want to know if I can use a multi AV out from a busted SNES I have, instead of having to buy one of those 3D printed ones (I can do the holes to make it fit, no problem)

[Anonymous No.3352396]

http://www.mod-chip.net/

so despite the credit card logos at the top, the only payment option on this site is money order. is that not a big red flag? what are the chances it's a scam?

looking for a playstation mod chip with pre-soldered wires, and their prices aren't as good as other places but the advertised shipping time is much better.

[Anonymous No.3352974]

>>3352282
I've seen people do it before. The 3D printed back panel will give you very nice looking results, although with some epoxy and some careful cutting you can do something like this.

[Anonymous No.3352994]

>>3352282
No one here knows what you're capabilities are. Can you?

>>3352396
How are you going to get those pre-soldered wires soldered to your PS if you can't solder a few wires? Buy a modded system or send it to someone to mod. You're just begging for problems trying to do this yourself.

[Anonymous No.3352995]

>>3352396
>looking for a playstation mod chip with pre-soldered wires,
I don't understand why, since the hard solder points are inside the PS1.

[Anonymous No.3353323]

I'm sure this seems like a stupid question, but I didn't feel like googling it:
I can just plug a set of RCA cables into the red and white ports of an NES and just plug into the TV and play, right?

[Anonymous No.3353336]

>>3353323
yes

[Anonymous No.3355336]

My chipped PS1 is giving me Red Screen of Deaths randomly every time I try to boot a burned disc. What can be the cause of this? It also sometimes freezes in the Playstation Logo.