Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.2844547]

Repair and mod discussion goes here. Share with us any projects you're working on.

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

If you're having issues with a console, the first thing to do is always to clean the console, controllers, and games first. Check out this guide for help:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

[Anonymous No.2844575]

>>2844547
I've been meaning to ask on the Neo-Geo forums but I'll ask here first if anyones got some input.

My MVS cab is a 2 slot cabinet, that has a 4 slot board in it. Its obviously been replaced by the previous owner, and he got it from a place in vancouver (pacific vend stickers plastered everywhere).

Now this thing has some wonky as fuck behaviors.

>Slot 1 displays images incorrectly
Previous owner says the contacts were dirty. Its displaying I guess shifted bits, so there are obvious lines with incorrect graphics. I hosed it with contact cleaning but I haven't taken it out yet.

>Slot 2 doesn't have sound
>Slot 3 appears to be perfect
>Slot 4 has really low sound
>If multiple games are in, Slot 3 doesn't have sound

Among a few other issues.

Is it possible its not getting enough juice from the power supply? Theres absolutely no sound if I have multiple games in. Occasionally it will also skip games, but if I remove a game from the board it sometimes works.

Supposedly 4 slots are just wonky. I'll probably document everything wrong with it and make a post on the Neo-Geo forums later.

[Anonymous No.2845268]

Came across a rather niffy CIC mod for the NES that involves soldering 2 wires to the board.

If anyone wants any information on this, I'd be happy to help.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2845420]

Could a faulty limit switch on a Sega CD(2) lead to damaged gears and the sled attempting to go further away from the center than it should, or could damaged gears be mimicking a faulty limit switch?

Bought an "as is" Model 2 and I'm trying to get it up and running correctly.
Reads discs, but seems to take a bit long to load at times (I have no "properly working" point of reference so I can't really say on that one) and tracking for audio at times.
These are often times accompanied with grinding noises coming from the sled; The reason I'm not sure it's a limit switch issue is because one of the gears is a bit chewed up and that the grinding noise happens both when the assembly is near the center(what a limit switch problem would cause) as well as it pushing all the way out to the very edge.

If it is a limit switch issue (and as such need new gears or something along those lines) would someone be able to point me in the direction of decent instructions on how to go about either repairing said switch/bringing it back into proper alignment, or if it would be possible to replace the switch?

I have some video of the drive in action, but I still need to cut out the useless junk and/or possibly retake it as it the focus is debatable at times.

[Anonymous No.2845434]

>>2845420
Yes, a faulty/bad limit switch could result in damage to the gears.

Grinding noises are never a good sign with CD drives. Lucky if you catch it in time, you can usually fix the "Switch". I say "Switch" because its just two thin pieces of metal. You can bend them forward slightly to try and fix the limit.

[Anonymous No.2845437]

>>2845420
>>2845434
One way you can test a Sega CD (or most CD based systems) is with a music CD and slowly work your way back though the tracks. As you get toward the end of the CD the laser assembly is working its way out toward the edge near it's limit.

[Anonymous No.2845442]

>>2845437
>>2845434
>>2845420
Going on further it might be prudent to take the entire drive apart and check the gears to make sure they're lubricated still and not worn out.

As for repairing the switch its just a matter of getting it in the right spot and or cleaning the contacts it has.

Replacing it is going to be a pain because like a lot of Sega tech, finding acceptable modern replacements is going to be a bitch.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2845452]

>>2845442
Taking it apart is something I plan to do, but only once I've got an idea of what actually needs done to it.

The gears look pretty clean and dry, so I doubt they have any lube on them; As for "not worn out" the tall thin part of the gear that actually comes in contact with the sled has some definite damage on them. Whether it's enough to actually cause large amounts of problems elsewhere is something I cannot say.

As for replacing the switch, I would think that you'd just need something that can be positioned in the same spot(how you mount it there is another question entirely) and triggers in the correct amount of time. I'm not even entirely sure what I'm looking at is the switch or not, as it just seems to be made of plastic; Perhaps I'm missing something, I dunno.

It's mildly depressing that you can seemingly find the laser assemblies for "relatively" cheap, but there don't seem to be any full drive replacements.

[Anonymous No.2845458]

>>2845452
Well, only one way to determine what needs to be done and that's to take it apart and check each component one by one.

If they're dry, you might need to just lube them. That involves taking them all off though and putting some lube on the inside. Hell, it might be that they are skipping because of friction.

And replacing it isn't going to be ease because like you said, getting the correct position and time is going to be a bitch.

And yes, that plastic thing is the switch. It's just two metal rods in a plastic cover that get pressed together when the laser assembly pushes it far enough.

And I agree. With the advances of 3D printing and molding small batches of plastic coming down in price, its a shame that no one has put into production replacement gears.

[Anonymous No.2847723]

bump

[Anonymous No.2847975]

I have a model 1 sega genesis that I plan on modding for s-video and stereo. I want to take out the RF modulator thingy to put the s-video port.

My question is, will removing it cause any complications? Will it still just work with it removed? Or do I have to use a wire to jump some points together afterwords?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2848034]

>>2847975
I tore it out of mine to add in a Model 2 connector, and haven't run into any problems.

Yet

[Anonymous No.2848837]

>>2847975
Honestly, the better thing to take out is the expansion port. It's not used for anything unless you really want to get the Mega Drive modem from Japan.

[Anonymous No.2848857]

>>2847975
>>2848837
expansion port is 9 pins and a bit of a pain to desolder with basic tools

RF box is 3 pins, and takes more room too. If you don't plan to use RF just remove it.

>>2848034
did the same but for a S-video socket, with some epoxy.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2848954]

>>2848857
The opening is essentially the perfect size for those mini-din sized connectors.

I agree on the expansion port;
I had actually thought of re-purposing it into a video connector, but wasn't sure of the repercussions of changing the way any of those lines are being terminated, where as I've seen countless RF modulators torn out.

[Anonymous No.2848996]

>>2848954
According to this SEGA maintenance manual CN4 is not used in general and it's useless in general.

[Anonymous No.2849003]

>>2848837
>>2848954
The expansion port hole is too big for my s-video port. There will be open spaces on the sides.

Maybe I'll try to plastic weld or glue a bit of plastic over the expansion port hole and put my stereo jacks there. Then I can put a composite port in the channel selection hole.

>>2848034
This is the kind of answer I was hoping for. Thank you!

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2849031]

>>2848996
Even if it's not used, I still wasn't sure what affect removing components on the path to the connector might have, if any. It was easier to remove the RF switch anyway.

>>2849003
Depending on the type of s-video connector you get and/or how you plan on mounting it, you may need to trim a slight bit of RF shielding, but it'd be a very small piece at most and easy to do cleanly without anything more than maybe a pair of pliers.

[Anonymous No.2849036]

>>2849031
I suppose.

RF boxes can be a problem usually because they love to solder them in.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2849061]

>>2849036
Can't speak for any other systems, but I managed to get this one out despite dealing with an absolute piece of shit iron.
Some of them do seem rather "entrenched" on their boards though.

[Anonymous No.2849063]

>>2849061
Yeah, I love when they not only solder them in but also twist the fucking tabs.

I'm looking at you master system.

[Anonymous No.2851264]

Have a rather strange issue with a NES and an unlicensed game

When the games CIC switch is on the B position the NES's power LED flashes sometimes but then turns off, but the NES is still on.

What gives with this?

[Anonymous No.2851269]

>>2849031
>you may need to trim a slight bit of RF shielding
Is the top RF shielding even necessary? I thought it was just there so it doesn't screw with analog tv signals.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2851358]

>>2851269
All the shielding in 70s-90s electronics is mostly just there to appease regulators. I leave it in mine just for the sake of keeping it "complete".

>>2845458
Does this look correct?
I can only seem to find photos/videos of the limit switch in the model 1.

[Anonymous No.2851361]

>>2851358
I can't really tell. Not an expert on it by a long shot but if the limit switch is that black thing there, I've only encountered ones with clear plastic limit switches so I can't really help.

Might just come down to experimenting with it.

[Anonymous No.2851373]

>>2851358
>All the shielding in 70s-90s electronics is mostly just there to appease regulators. I leave it in mine just for the sake of keeping it "complete".

If you live in an area with a lot of radio traffic, that shielding will block out some interference that can show on your screen.

for a while hear some kid got hold of a short wave radio and whenever he was broadcasting, my unshielded consoles would pick up visual interference, and the ones on RF would pick up the kid talking about his balls for like an hour.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2851375]

>>2851361
It's the only thing I can see that could possibly be the limit switch, and what really makes me question if it's all there is looking at some stuff for the model 1, there's something hanging down that the little piece of metal would presumably hit.

>>2851373
Like I said, mostly.

And you have admit, what you've got there is a bit of an exception for what you'd run into.
Either that or a special feature.

[Anonymous No.2851395]

>>2851358
Hi, I'm the guy from the CRT thread with the free 20L5 who drills holes for RCA jacks for RGB.

I think the top shielding serves an actual purpose on my Model 1 Genesis - there are two 7805 voltage regulators on it and they get really hot. The top heat sink is screwed down onto the heat sink, so I think sega designed it to be used as a kind of extension to the aluminum heat sink. The bottom one, I'm not so sure about, that may well have just been for the regulators.

[Anonymous No.2851404]

>>2851395
>>2851375
same guy as last post:
Is this the limit switch?

I have no experience with CD drives but might be willing to crack my sega CD open after all to verify.

[Anonymous No.2851420]

>>2851264
The game stunned the CIC. The CIC controls the power LED.

[Anonymous No.2851470]

>>2851420
I had a feeling that was what was going on.

I bypassed the CIC via the 2 wire mod and this is the first NES to have any sort of adverse reaction to an unlicensed game.

This is my first time working with a CPU-11 board though so that might have something to do with it.

[Anonymous No.2851859]

Quick question.

I know that you can enable the expansion audio on the front loader NES with a 47k resistor.

Is there such a mod for the top loader?

[Anonymous No.2851953]

>>2851859
yes, but you have to use a different pin.
Google it.

[Anonymous No.2852045]

I need some help.

My Super Nintendo powers on but produces no image or sound. With Super Punch Out, I've got it to start flashing the Nintendo logo over and over but it never does anything else.

[Anonymous No.2852047]

>>2852045
you mean it gets to the nintendo logo, then restarts and gets to the nintendo logo again, etc?

Or it hangs at the nintendo logo/crashes?

[Anonymous No.2852128]

>>2844547
Anyone knows where to find repair guides for Famiclones particularly Ending-Man BS-500 AS (Terminator)?
Picture related.

[Anonymous No.2852150]

>>2852128
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LNjTF7xMAY
here is video tutorial

[Anonymous No.2852151]

>>2852150
simply epic
heres your reply.

[Anonymous No.2852162]

>>2852150
Has there been an influx of /b/ posters or something lately?

[Anonymous No.2852163]

>>2852047
I think it hangs on it and doesn't do anything.

[Anonymous No.2852204]

>>2852162
It seems like it and Im getting sick of it.
Mods should do their fucking job for once.

[Anonymous No.2852208]

>>2852204
Yeah, I'm starting to see random dumbfucks making really shitty and low quality posts when I didn't see it before.

[Anonymous No.2852281]

I posted this before and I didn't get around to fixing the issue, my snes does this with it's mode 7
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqWDbG_Cbdo
What would I have to do to fix it, I don't want to get a new snes because this one still works apart from this problem.

[Anonymous No.2852568]

Any suggestions for using an AV Famicom on a new HDTV that won't support the signal over composite? Would running it through a VCR first bump it up to 480i?

[Anonymous No.2852728]

>>2852568
RGB Scart.

[Anonymous No.2852742]

>>2852728

Do all retro gamers live in europe or something?

[Anonymous No.2852762]

>>2852568
>using an AV Famicom on a new HDTV
I really don't want to hear why you want to do that.
Because I think it's stupid, very stupid.
>Would running it through a VCR first bump it up to 480i?
Maybe.
I have a silver VCR by Sharp made in 1999-2001, it does record and play 288p/50hz flawlessly but unfortunately it can only playback NTSC tapes as PAL60.
Any attempt to record PAL60 results into a picture that jumps sideways every half second.

[Anonymous No.2852779]

>>2852728
Famicon (and NES) can't do RGB. Even the French one uses a (shitty) composite-to-rgb converter, instead of being native rgb.

[Anonymous No.2852790]

>>2845268
CIC? You have peaked my interest.

[Anonymous No.2852807]

>>2852762

I know it's stupid, but I live in a tiny apartment with my girlfriend and bringing home a CRT isn't really an option. I'm on the lookout for a 5" CRT I can put on my desk, but I'm just trying to find a solution in the meantime.

[Anonymous No.2852824]

>>2852779
>>2852807
Sorry. I totally forgot how expensive the RGB nes' are. I forget how much money I wasted on mine. It looks amazing, but, yeah. Not enough good games.

The s-video mod isn't much cheaper, sadly, so yeah. Sorry you're fucked on original hardware there.

[Anonymous No.2852830]

>>2852824
It's all good, I honestly don't care that much about video fidelity, I just really love playing Famicom. I would love to do an RGB mod, but it's just too expensive right now, I'd rather spend that money on an EverDrive.

[Anonymous No.2852901]

>>2852830
>Don't care about video fidelity
You will.

[Anonymous No.2852912]

>>2852901

I've been playing and collecting Famicom games and hardware for well over a decade; I know the glory of a CRT, and I know the convenience of an 11lb 32" flatscreen. When I was in high school and living with my parents I had an amazing setup for my Famicom. As an adult I simply don't have the space for several different televisions. I'm just trying to actually play games.

[Anonymous No.2852914]

>>2852901
>>2852901

I've been playing and collecting Famicom games and hardware for well over a decade; I know the glory of a CRT, and I know the convenience of an 11lb 32" flatscreen. When I was in high school and living with my parents I had an amazing setup for my Famicom. As an adult I simply don't have the space for several different televisions. Better phrasing would have been that I'm not that concerned with video quality, I just want to play games.

[Anonymous No.2852917]

>>2852901

I've been playing and collecting Famicom games and hardware for well over a decade; I know the glory of a CRT, and I know the convenience of an 11lb 32" flatscreen. When I was in high school and living with my parents I had an amazing setup for my Famicom. As an adult I simply don't have the space for several different televisions. I just want to play Famicom.

[Anonymous No.2852929]

>>2852917
>glory of a CRT
You mean the glory of an upscaled 1080p RGB Scart Famicom running on 4:3.

[Anonymous No.2852957]

>>2852929

I'm aware of that glory (and it is beautiful), but the cost kind of outweighs the usefulness for me.

[Anonymous No.2852959]

>>2844547
OP how to I repair my life

[Anonymous No.2853040]

Hey, i have a brazilian 3 button mega drive controller and it's completely dead, can someone lend me a hand?

[Anonymous No.2853048]

>>2853040
have you done any troubleshooting or cleaning already?

[Anonymous No.2853105]

Hey /vr/, i just came back from japan and bought a beautiful famicom, The system turns on, plays games and works on my tv.
The PROBLEM is when i push the "B" button on controller 1, it will push START and B.
(Ex. i will play mario 3 and if i want to run, it will pause the game, i can unpause it and still hold the B button and it will still function normally, but will pause again because its touchy?)
I took the controller apart and didnt see anything wierd or funky

[Anonymous No.2853151]

>>2851953
Why can't we just talk about it here?

[Anonymous No.2853186]

>>2853105

Have you tried swapping the pads with controller II?

[Anonymous No.2853376]

>>2853186
swapped it with controller from another system
works now
>proud of myself

[Anonymous No.2853413]

>>2853151
Do you really want to take advice from someone who's best advice is "google it"? At least if you google it you'll find someone who took the time to write instructions and take a few pics. Who know what you'd get from that dingus. He's probably never even done it before.

[Anonymous No.2853414]

>>2853413
Well, all the guides that talk about it are referring to a flash card and not how to get it on the system itself

[Anonymous No.2853479]

>>2853414
>>2853413
Seems I need to add a 1.2k resistor in between pin 51 and the sound pin.

Thing is, I'd like to be able to use real Famicom cartridges. I'm wondering if this is the same pin you need to jump with a resistor if you want to play Famicom games on a top loader NES with expanded audio

[Anonymous No.2853743]

>>2853376
>>2853105
This is most likely due to some lines getting crossed. I think Start and B are on the same data line and thus will cause that problem if they're not separated.

[Anonymous No.2853885]

>>2853743
Wrong.

Try replacing the shift register.

[Anonymous No.2853908]

>>2853885
Well, I was speaking from something I remembered reading about a NES controller having the same issue.

[Anonymous No.2853940]

>>2853376
congrats bro, welcome to the famicom club

[Anonymous No.2854301]

>>2852959
Get a Retron V and find a wife!

[Anonymous No.2854895]

>>2852779
>French
I stumbled upon a French NES today. I currently have no cables or power adapter for it. Will a cheap ass SNES or N64 cable work with it? The connector looks the same, but internet says weird things about it (like, requiring a special French cable and so on).

[Anonymous No.2855548]

>>2853376
If you replaced it with a NES controller PCB, I'm suprised you didn't have to swap the red and yellow wires. I did when I swapped mine in because the NES controller PCB had a longer wire.

[Anonymous No.2855889]

I've noticed for some rubber pad button mechanisms (like on controllers) that there is a mild, non-drying gel adhesive used to hold the rubber piece in place so it doesn't shift as you press buttons. What is this stuff called? My Famicom controller needs it because the P1 D-pad rubber will move a bit underneath the plastic piece resulting in a slightly mushy feel.

[Anonymous No.2855930]

>>2853479
>>2853414

Also have a front loading NES that I'm looking to add expansion audio to.

I want to use a potentiometer to adjust the mixing of the audio levels but I also want the ability to be able to turn off that potentiometer.

I recently found out they make potentiometers with an on/off switch. I am wondering how I go about wiring up one with an on/off switch to control the expansion audio and turn it off when I want.

Anyone have any diagrams as how I'd go about doing this?

[Anonymous No.2856273]

>>2855930
Wire it up like a normal potentiometer.
Nothing special to it.

[Anonymous No.2857176]

Cablefag from last thread here. I ended up buying an RGB Scart cable for my Mega Drive, it cost me 9 euros including shipping from the UK and it was totally worth it. I should have done it sooner.

[Anonymous No.2857363]

>>2856273
Really? Even though instead of 3 terminals most have 5?

[Anonymous No.2857503]

My N64 "starter" for lack of better term, has been acting up lately. It will take some games 5-6 on-off cycles before the game starts up. There's power going to the unit, but it doesnt acknowledge the game for the first few tries. Its not dirty contacts on either the system or game.

Anything I can do to fix it?

[Anonymous No.2857587]

>>2857503
Honestly, I'd check the pins and the cart slot again.

You'd be surprised how dirty something is that looks clean.

[Anonymous No.2857920]

>>2857363
If it has 5 it's a stereo potentiometer. Get a 3 pin one.

[Anonymous No.2857925]

>>2857920
Hmm, alright then.

Wouldn't happen to know what I need to filter by on Digikey would you when looking for one?

[Anonymous No.2857927]

>>2857925
Sorry, not really got a clue.

The other alternative with a 5 pin one is to only hook up one channel.

[Anonymous No.2857930]

>>2857927
Well, I'm not looking to control left or right audio, the mixing of the expansion audio is what I'm going for.

People suggest 22k all the way up to 54k for the mixing. I figured a potentiometer would allow me to mix the audio for each game.

[Anonymous No.2858838]

>>2857930
You use only one channel of the potentiometer because the nes is mono.

Can I make that clearer?

[Anonymous No.2860232]

>>2858838
You know that isn't what I'm getting at, right? Not talking about the mono sound that's coming out of the mixer, I'm talking about before it. The expansion channels that are mixed in with the NES audio then combined for mono output.

At least that's my understanding of it. The NES might take the expansion audio right from the game not put it though its internal mixer at all.

[Anonymous No.2861879]

I have a rather strange issue with a few NES units I'm trying to fix up. Some of their colors are slightly off. For example some display the title text on Duck hunt in a blue/green (teel?) color while others display it in a straight up blue color.

I tried to adjust the pot in the picture slightly to see if that was the issue but it refused to budge so I salvaged one off a junk board and replaced it with that. I am wondering how many ohms it should be at for correct color.

I had a SNES exhibit the same problems once and I adjusted a pot like the one circled and it corrected the color.

[Anonymous No.2862037]

I recently put a cheap gotek floppy drive emulator into my SNES copier. Seems like an easy way to "modernize" it, with the added benefit of reducing video interference common in these units from the old drive motor.

[Anonymous No.2862262]

>>2862037
I've done the same with several of my old backup devices Maybe it's not quite as convenient as an ED but still perfectly usable.

[Anonymous No.2862718]

>>2861879
This is a trimmer (variable) capacitor, maybe 15-35pF but look up the schematics and look for a capacitor with a arrow near the oscillator.
It's purpose is to fine tune the system oscillator.
To adjust this a very precise (and often expensive) frequency counter is needed but TVs are usually very tolerant if the color subcarrier is off so your way to adjust this till the TV can demodulate it properly can works too but maybe a (totally) different TV could have problems by using this method.

[Anonymous No.2862728]

>>2860232
Correct, you need to wire up the cartridge connector to pass through expansion audio, and it's going to be mono from the get-go. And don't use a pot to fuck up the mix, listen to the music how it's supposed to be heard.

[Anonymous No.2863892]

>>2862718
I couldn't really find an adjustable capacitor on the schematics I found, just a few normal small capacitors, but I was able to measure the capacitance. They're around 50pF on all the boards I have.

And for some reason I can't seem to adjust it at all. The screw won't budge.

[Anonymous No.2864197]

>>2863892
>I couldn't really find an adjustable capacitor on the schematics I found
Yes, I actually looked the NES ones up and indeed they didn't marked it but on the Famicom it is 30pF.

>They're around 50pF on all the boards I have.
Did you measured them in circuit?
If yes then better first remove it first as they usually have some other caps parallel to it, if the range is 5-30pF or beyond then it's good.

>And for some reason I can't seem to adjust it at all. The screw won't budge.
Could it be that these are water damaged?
These caps are usually just a bunch of thin metal plates which can be rotated like pic related.
Maybe you should buy some new ones, the exact same one used in the NES can be still bought.

[Anonymous No.2864203]

>>2864197
Well, they're close enough that I don't think they're going to cause a problem. I just noticed that the color is slightly off.

Yes I did measure a few in circuit but also one outside and it was around 60pF. I'm wondering if a static cap might be a better solution.

Its possible these caps are water damaged. I buy NES's in shit condition and use them for parts for other systems.

If I can sell some NES games and systems I've been working on, I'm going to buy a big bulk order of caps.

[Anonymous No.2864208]

>>2864203
>>2864197
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Adjustable-Trimmer-Capacitors/dp/B0064Z9IH6

Something like that would work, correct?

[Anonymous No.2864210]

>>2864203
>Yes I did measure a few in circuit but also one outside and it was around 60pF.
Maybe your meter is inaccurate like mine which has a tiny dial to set the offset for pF measurements.

>>2864208
Yes.

[Anonymous No.2864212]

>>2864210
Eh, its a cheap one. It might be inaccurate but it's been good so far.

I wouldn't put it past it that these caps are damaged. Some of the consoles I get are denigrating into dust.

[Anonymous No.2865839]

Bump

[Anonymous No.2868148]

Another bump

[Anonymous No.2868654]

A while ago, I replaced the laser in my Model 1 US Sega Saturn (model no. MK-80000) with this:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=361218299200&alt=web

It still didn't work. So maybe I should get this laser, as I've seen it used in video tutorials on Saturn laser replacement:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281886992996&alt=web

Although I heard it didn't work because something was wrong with the PSU. Are they right, or should I get the laser in the green box?

[Anonymous No.2868737]

I heard a Everdrive N8 can also play FDS games but how is that possible? Nes nor Famicom don't have a build in extra wavetable channel.

[Anonymous No.2869240]

>>2868654
Did you remove the anti static solder point on the new laser?

[Anonymous No.2869321]

>>2869240
Yes. I didn't use an anti-static iron (I don't have one), but I unplugged it when it got hot enough, then I desoldered it while it was still unplugged (I heard it should work and that you can use this technique if you don't have an anti-static soldering iron).

[Anonymous No.2869543]

>>2868737
Guess it has the built in extra shit then eh?

[Anonymous No.2869596]

>>2869543
Looked it up, apperantly it emulates it.

[Anonymous No.2869737]

>>2868737
The NES isn't wired to produce expansion audio, it will just be unplayed.