Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.2688179]

Mods, repairs, and technical questions go here. What are you working on?

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.

[Anonymous No.2688308]

Does anyone have experience fixing NeoGeo MVS controls?

My second player A button (and to a lesser extent B and C) "works" but it requires a really hard button press. I assume the connection is good, and maybe its just the contacts are worn down or something, since it does register the button press on occasion.

I figure if I'm going to do one, I may as well do the rest. I'll probably end up posting on the neogeo forums at some point regardless.

[Anonymous No.2690621]

Idk where to ask this but how good are VGA to Component converters because most 480p signals look like shit on my LCD unlike VGA signals like on my DC which look great

[Anonymous No.2691116]

How do I properly bend this pin back in place?

[Anonymous No.2691272]

>>2691116
Push it up with a small flat head screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.2691275]

>>2688308
I don't own one but are they are just rubber dome type buttons?
If so then clean the board contacts with rubbing alcohol or contact cleaner and wash the rubber parts in the sink.

[Anonymous No.2691296]

>>2691275
>>2691275
I took a look I think the microswitches are just wearing out.

They look like : http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/D413-R1AA/CH987-ND/4580798

I swapped my D button switches with my A button switches since obviously the D button ones wear out less and a lot of games only use the A button. None of my games even use the D button.

I'm looking for alternative switches. Those ones seem a bit expensive and they have a life of ~50k clicks, and for a game like Metal Slug thats probably going to wear out real fast.


Pic isn't mine, but thats what the underside of the controls look like.

If I can find some good switches I'll probably just replace them all (including the switches for the sticks), one of them has been replaced already by the previous owner.

[Anonymous No.2691472]

Anyone know a good drop in replacement for a 7805C?

Preferably one that's free standing and doesn't need a heat sink.

[Anonymous No.2692540]

Not a retro question but you guys might be able to answer it.

I have a PSP 1000 that randomly turns off. Wondering if this might be the power switch.

[Anonymous No.2692601]

>>2692540

The OP tells you what to do if you have a non-retro question

[Anonymous No.2692960]

>>2692601
Yeah, I rather not register.

[Anonymous No.2692961]

>>2692960
>>2692601
and besides, that form is dead

[Anonymous No.2692972]

>>2692960
>>2692961

And this imageboard isn't for modern consoles. Try /v/.

[Anonymous No.2692976]

>>2692972
Yeah, I rather toss it out then.

[Anonymous No.2692992]

>>2688179
my saturn was skipping on disc reading, I opened it up lubed up the gears, cleaned the laser, and unplugging and plugged the cd drive back in. It worked but, I want to know how can I prevent this from happening again other than those precautions.

[Anonymous No.2693019]

>>2692961
>and besides, that form is dead
Probably because people like you.

[Anonymous No.2693046]

>>2693019
>Having to register for a no name form that no one is on to ask a question that will never get answered.

Have you even looked on there? Questions but no answers. No fucking thanks.

I'll take it to a more populated form before I register there.

[Anonymous No.2693124]

>>2693046
>Have you even looked on there?
Since it came into existence, two people have asked questions in the repair forum, and I don't have an answer to either.
Two of the countless people who came to this thread to ask about things that aren't /vr/ related, most of them, like you, too lazy to even try.

Even if we gave you a fix, by your attitude you would have thrown it away anyway, because it would be too much effort.

[Anonymous No.2693130]

>>2693124
Naw, I fix retro shit all the time. I don't want to waste time buying the wrong part is what the thing is.

But thanks for that :^)

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2693151]

>>2693124
>and I don't have an answer to either.
For the GC related one, I found someone on assembler that sells them; Still haven't gotten around to ordering it though.

[Anonymous No.2693218]

>>2693151
the best for the gamecube is the wasp add the megadrive and you are done, also like 2 weeks ago someone on the gamecube forims discovered autoboot for the wasp, dont go for the xeno, wasp+ megadrive cover everything perfect compatibility for the wasp, audistreaming for the megadrive so you have a 100% compatible cube zero lag.

[Anonymous No.2693223]

>>2693124
>>2693019
why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
To anyone with legitimate questions just go to assembler forums, gc forever or gba temp

[Anonymous No.2693258]

>>2693223
>why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
The flaw in your argument is that the forum isn't dead, it's never been born. Because people have refused to post there because "registering iz 2 hard waa" there are few posts, which deters people willing to solve issues and people with issues.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2693290]

>>2693218
Well, would you be able to drop a link or two so I can read up on it.
One of the big reasons Xeno interested me was it was a cheap route to Swiss, which is the big thing I'm interested in.

[Anonymous No.2694607]

>>2693290
>>2693223
forgot to add atari age
also
sd swiss autoboot zero lag
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3046

look here megadrive v5 + wasp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mUmyn70-lg

dont go for v6 it sucks balls to install

also im waiting for this the hd gamecube cable solution
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2500

[Anonymous No.2694942]

>>2691472
You mean a pump or you're prejudiced against heat sinks?

[Anonymous No.2695260]

>>2694942
More like I want to do a mod but one is in the way.

[Anonymous No.2695263]

>>2691472
If you need a voltage regulator but a linear one is producing too much heat, use a similar switching regulator. The 7805SR-C should be a more or less exact replacement for the 7805C, 7.5+ volts in, 5 volts out.

Just asking, but what are you doing?

[Anonymous No.2695265]

>>2695263
Top loading NES mod.

[Anonymous No.2695285]

>>2695265
Heatsinks, always gotta be startin shit. Best of luck with that mod.

I'm torn on what to do with my SNES. It's an RGB-02, so it has the 2nd version of the video encoder chip in it. I want to install an S-Video plug into it, since the 2nd version doesn't support native component right off the chip. I'm just not sure if I should drill a new hole for it, or pull the RF module and use that hole or maybe widen it up a little.

Any thoughts, opinions?

[Anonymous No.2695287]

>>2695285
Honestly, pull the RF. You're never going to use it.

And drilling holes though old plastic is a NIGHTMARE or can be.

[Anonymous No.2695304]

Do you guys know if there's a way I can fix this?

[Anonymous No.2695307]

>>2695304
Nope.

[Anonymous No.2695318]

>>2695307
Sad. Some dumb fuck mailed it to me in a couple of bubble mailers.

[Anonymous No.2695324]

>>2695318
I know how that is. I ordered a copy of Mario Maker and it came in one. I was pretty pissed too.

Try and get your money back.

[Anonymous No.2695325]

>>2695324
I already messaged the seller about it, waiting to hear back. I'm mad now because I know for a fact it was pristine before he sent it.

[Anonymous No.2695358]

Ok I got one for you guys.

I found a Turbografix 16 controller in a thrift store parking lot the other day, it's cord was cut, but was otherwise perfect shape. Anyhow I grabbed it, since I have a PC engine figuring it'd re-wire it with a Mini DIN connector and use it as a spare controller.

Only problem is the only PC engine controller I have is a Hori Commander, and the board is different so I have no idea what goes where, and Google has failed me.

Anyhow I've mapped out the colors in a spare 8-Pin DIN cable and crimped JST ends on it, but any help in figuring out which wire goes where would be hugely appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2695390]

So the end of my Dreamcast controller has been coming out for a while. I've tried to avoid pulling it out, but I'm looking to get some lightguns and play House of the Dead and switching back and forth is obviously going to put some wear on it.

I don't know what to call the parts, so the black bit is coming out of the white bit and can come out far enough to start turning around.

I could just glue it back in but I figure that'll make fixing the wires later a nightmare, and I figure those wores are having a lot of unintended strain put on them every time I unplug the controller since they're the only thing holding it together.

Any advice?

[Anonymous No.2695508]

>>2695390
I think dream cast cords are detachable inside.

If you can find a fucked controller but okay cord, you can switch them out.

[Anonymous No.2696040]

>>2695358

Figured it out last nigh by reading what each leg of the 74HC157 IC does, and what each pin on the Mini DIN connector does, then following the traces on the PCB.

If anyone is curious, pic is attached (disregard colors, cable is likely gonna be different). Pin 1~8 on the DIN and JST connector should match up, with 9 going to shield.

[Anonymous No.2697224]

>>2695325
If he blames the post office you open a case on ebay (assuming ebay).

>Item not as described
Cite that packaging was inadequate.

[Anonymous No.2698209]

I switched the case on a Gameboy Color, everything worked great. Noticed some dust, opened it back up, got rid of the dust, now the thing wont power on. It'll barely light up, then die, like the batteries are dead but I've tried new batteries. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2698441]

Yo I posted on the forum with a GBA question, would love some help if anyone has any idea.

[Anonymous No.2698592]

>>2695325

What you've described is not even remotely approaching what we would consider adequate packaging, so you certainly have a case for a dispute.

A big bubble bag would have been moved as general freight which includes boxes and gets sorted in cages as it moves around the network. Your console would have been subjected to a hundred or more pounds of freight piled on it at any given time, which is going to be an issue if your packaging is inadequate.

Inadequate packaging also voids any insurance, but given how the seller cheaped out on shipping material I highly doubt he opted for any insurance.

>>2697224

He'll probably claim he has sent tons of things the same way and never had a problem. Whether that's true or not, being a lucky son of a bitch on other parcels doesn't make it okay to ship something like a console in a bubble bag.

[Anonymous No.2698820]

>>2698592
I agree, even a box is not adequate.

>SNES and SNES advantage
>Literally just thrown in a box
>damaged 2 of the switches on the joystick and busted the snes shell to oblivion
He refunded me 50%, but I was still pretty pissed.

[Anonymous No.2698827]

>>2698441

On the side, let's say that I had an unspecified portable game system and a pair of buttons were completely unresponsive while the rest of them worked fine, what sort of troubleshooting might I do in general?

[Anonymous No.2698851]

>>2698827
Open it up, check the contacts, they may be worn out or dirty.
The bigger issue is if the actual connections are bad, but its more then likely just the contacts.

[Anonymous No.2698854]

>>2698592
>>2698820
How would you guys suggest mailing anything? If it was just the console in a bubble mailer, it shouldn't of gotten harmed. A console should have a box though, just because it needs the space to fit the other stuff in, then in a box it needs padding so stuff doesn't hit each other but a cardboard box isn't going to keep it from getting damaged anymore than a bubble mailer would.

How would that spot be made while in post?

[Anonymous No.2698902]

>>2698851

They didn't look dirty, but I followed a guide on cleaning remote buttons (eraser on the contacts, iospropyl alcohol on the actual buttons) and it works fine now. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.2698916]

So this is slightly off topic

I'm finally going back to school.

I'm a repairman by trade but have very little electronic knowledge, what sort of program/classes should I take to gain knowledge that would be useful in repairing my old game shit and CRTs?

[Anonymous No.2699380]

I accidentally dropped my copy of Demon's Souls (I know, not retro. Can still apply to retro games) and a little piece got chipped off on the edge. It still plays, but I don't know if this will affect the game in any way. Anyone knowledgeable in this type of situation?

[Anonymous No.2699396]

>>2699380

Saying "I know, not retro" does not make it magically okay to post not retro

[Anonymous No.2699408]

>>2699396
Answering an odd non-retro question isn't lethal to you and has never caused thread deletion in the past.

>>2699380
Blu-ray discs are durable, but any crack can cause it to shatter in the drive at operational RPM.

[Anonymous No.2699410]

>>2699396
You get the idea. It's a situation that can be applied to retro game discs. If I asked /v/, the thread would die really quickly with no helpful replies.

[Anonymous No.2699414]

>>2699408
So, should I just find a new copy?

[Anonymous No.2699417]

>>2699414
It's for the best. A shattered disc is a nightmare to clean out of any drive.

[Anonymous No.2699574]

does it seems like everybody push's you to buy something "NEW" instead of actually popping it open and looking inside it?

[Anonymous No.2699710]

>>2698854
Box is always the best option but it depends what it is.

My procedure is what one would call excessive, but I get a lot of compliments in my ebay feedback about being well packaged so...

>wrap the individual items like a present in paper towel
>bag items in a ziplock bag (I've had one package ruined because it was left out in the rain, and it helps to keep things dry on the inside)
>push out all the air and zip it, then roll the end and tape it closed
>depending on value/number of components I may put them in another ziplock bag I usually individually bag things
>If its just a game, like an NES SNES or PS1/PS2 game I usually wrap in thin bubble wrap and a bubble mailer.
>Ifr its something like a handheld, or an expensive game, I take the bagged item, put in either more paper towel, brown paper or bubble wrap (depends what i have on hand)

I've also been known to reinforce edges or boxes with extra cardboard and duct tape.

Then again I'm a small time seller. It doesn't surprise me that big time sellers don't put in any effort.

Throwing in a dryer sheet can also be a nice touch, because it will suck up any of the bubble wrap or brown papers smell. A lot of the time the "cigarette" smell people claim is just from bubble wrap/shipping materials.

[Anonymous No.2700000]

>>2699710
That is excessive. What to do figure your shipping materials come to?

[Anonymous No.2700061]

>>2700000
Not too much.

I keep all boxes and bubble mailers that I get from ordering stuff online and use those. Same with bubble wrap and brown paper.

I usually just have ziplock bags and paper towel at home just because its a standard thing to have in the house. Packing and duct tape I bought a case of so theres a shitload of it in there, but I use it for other stuff.

[Anonymous No.2700158]

>>2699380
I'd just get it on PSN or something

[Anonymous No.2700174]

>>2699414
>>2699417
Demon's Souls can commonly be found for only 10 bucks.

[Anonymous No.2700236]

>>2700158
Takes up too much space for the price. I knew I should've jumped on it when it was $5 a while ago.

[Anonymous No.2701854]

>>2699710
I almost exclusively use poly bubble mailers. For cartridge games I'll wrap them in more bubble wrap, but don't think it makes any difference just do it for the buyers.

I really don't think it matters how you ship stuff, unless you send an unsealed box. If it's going to get damaged cardboard isn't going to protect it any better than plastic. Am I wrong in my thinking?

[Anonymous No.2702169]

>>2698854
>>2701854

A box actually makes a huge difference in a parcel's survivability. The edges and corners of a cardboard box have a lot more structural strength than you'd think.

The key is to ensure the box is packed tight. You want all of the space in the box taken up by your items and packing material, with as little empty space in there as possible. Empty space will cave in effortlessly and compromise the box, allowing it to crush. Packing material will resist and spread out the load to protect your contents.

Your shipment has to share space on a plane or truck, and that means it could end up at the bottom of a heavy pile of freight. That's just how it is. Nobody runs over or impales shit with a forklift on a regular basis. Any carrier will have procedures and policies in place at to limit how much a parcel has to endure, so that nothing properly packaged should be in danger.

[Anonymous No.2704523]

>>2698827
>>2698902

So now that I've opened it up, the sound seems to be borked

Sometimes it plays fine and other times it doesn't play at all. Plays fine with headphones 100% of the time. I didn't touch much in that area, so I'm not sure what happened.

How can I diagnose the problem?

[Anonymous No.2704753]

>>2704523
Check the speaker and wires attached to it.

[Anonymous No.2705301]

>>2704753

The speaker seems dirty, wires look fine to my untrained eye but I don't know what to look for.

[Anonymous No.2706607]

>>2705301
Run it with the case open and manipulate the wires, if the sound cuts out, they're the problem.

[Anonymous No.2706654]

>>2706607

I'll check this tomorrow, thanks anon

[Anonymous No.2707349]

I have a Genesis 1 with some interesting issues. It only powers on if you hold the cable to the left and the power adapter makes a rather loud hum after being plugged in for a few minutes. It's an official 1602-1 power adapter.

[Anonymous No.2708306]

I recently bought famicom edition of Castlevania 3 and was wondering what be the most affordable option since I already got the famicom adapter in order to get the full power of the VRC6 and other expansion audio just modding the console or modding the adapter in order to get the full sound?

[Anonymous No.2708825]

So in the process of trying to replace the dead motor in my PS1, I managed to fuck up what I thought would be the easy part by stripping both the screws that hold the motor in place (pic related). Any ideas on how I can either unfasten them now or just remove their heads?

Very limited tools on-hand, but if it requires some things I don't have I can always buy those later on.

Also feel free to shit on me for stripping them, I deserve it.

[Anonymous No.2708839]

>>2707349
Sounds like a broken (and shorted) barrel plug, console side. Stop doing that.

[Anonymous No.2708940]

>>2708839
So would I replace it with something like this?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/dcj-1/2.1mm-dc-power-jack/1.html

[Anonymous No.2709462]

I need some advice

My snes is acting weird. Some games like Illusion of Gaia (And terranigma, repro and not repro connected with a PAR3) completely refuse to work on it, but work perfectly on a friends Snes

Not only this, but recently, always at the very same specific part in games, the screen the scrolls vertically. EX: At the company logo in Super Puyo Puyo, at the mist before the Giant Koopa boss in Yoshi's Island. Always at specific parts, never randomly.

I've been told it might be my pin connector, is that true? Anything else needed to repair it?

Thanks

[Anonymous No.2709468]

>>2709462

Forgot to add more details. Some other games works, but doesn't. Seiken Densetsu boots, but absolutely refuses to go in the file select menu, it just goes back to the booting screen, intro screen and title screen.

Other games like Radical Rex, the game start, then the screen scrolls vertically forever but no characters appears at all, the game seems to be locked there, I hope my snes isn't completely fucked

[Anonymous No.2709472]

>>2709468

*Seiken Densetsu 3 ... but I don't think it really matters

[Anonymous No.2709475]

>>2708825
in that sort of situation i've used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make a straight notch through the head of the screws so i could use a flatblade screwdriver on them. alternatively, you *might* be able to grab them with a vice grip and break them loose. looking at your pic, though, they dont seem that badly stripped. you should be able to still get them with a proper sized phillips, which if you had used in the first place you could have avoided this whole mess all together.

[Anonymous No.2709859]

I've got a green game boy pocket that for the most part, still works great. However, occasionally when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead. Also, it comes in spurts, like for weeks at a time it won't happen, and then it will start happening so frequently that I'll have to stop playing. Anyone have any idea what is happening here? Is it some sort of weird intermittent short-circuit or something?

[Anonymous No.2709881]

>>2709859
>when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead
There's a problem with the key matrix.
It consists of 4 inputs and 2 outputs, one for the d-pad and the other one for the rest.
>Anyone have any idea what is happening here?
Hard to tell, maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints or maybe some traces for the key matrix are fucked.

pic related is reverse engineered from the GB classic but still similar in operation, the pinout of the MGB-CPU is different and can be found here:
http://jazz-disassemblies.blogspot.de/2014/02/the-nintedno-gameboy-pockets-cpu-pinout.html

[Anonymous No.2709889]

>>2709881

Thanks for the info!

>maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints

I don't have the equipment to do a proper re-flow but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick? I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit. I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?

[Anonymous No.2709912]

>>2709889
>but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick?
Nope.
>I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit
Yes, this is quite correct but you could also cause damage with the proper equipment.
I think you could use that, just start slowly and on the lowest setting for 15 seconds or so and be careful not to burn your hands after you heated the board up, it's easy to underestimate how much and how long a circuit board can stay hot.
Basically you do that what people on youtube did to fix their xbox 360 with the red ting failure.
But before you start you should visually inspect the CPU and the traces of the buttons with an magnifying glass, maybe you can find something.
>I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
I don't know but there are no plastic hooks there, as soon the triwing screws (Y shaped) are out it gets loose.
Better be careful not to loose any parts when it comes apart.

[Anonymous No.2709925]

>>2709912

I still need to order a triwing bit but amazon prime has them for cheap. Hopefully I can tackle this project over the weekend. If I remember I'll post results. Thanks again for the help!

[Anonymous No.2710002]

>>2708306
Adapter is easier. Guide here:http://callanbrown.com/index.php/castlevania-iii-with-full-famicom-audio

[Anonymous No.2710167]

>>2709925
Do yourself a favor and order some liquid flux to put on the areas you are reflowing as well. It will make the solder heat quicker with lower temperatures and flow onto the legs and pads of the cpu. If it's a leg less cpu (BGA), use the brush in the bottle to put it under the chip and use the heat over the chip itself. Big thing is to use small circular motions and not stay in one spot too long. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.2710201]

>>2710002
Forgot to mention if there is anything else i should do since i do have a stereo mod on my NES should i mod the adapter pins and get the ENIO Exp board?

[Anonymous No.2710291]

>>2710167
>liquid flux

This is also on Prime for cheap. Nice!

[Anonymous No.2710687]

>>2710291
Pick up some 97 or 99 percent rubbing alcohol too for cleanup. Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive. Good luck again.

[Anonymous No.2711051]

>>2710687
>Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive.

Unless you live underwater in a swamp, the 5% water in the 95% alcohol is going to evaporate hours before corrosion would think about starting.

[Anonymous No.2711578]

anyone know how to remove the yellowing of a console? talking about dreamcast/snes mainly.

[Anonymous No.2711675]

>>2711051
You can usually even get by with 70%.

However, you should definitely be -trying- to get 99%

[Anonymous No.2711691]

>>2711578
Look up Retrobrite.

Its basically Hydrogen Peroxide and Oxyclean

[Anonymous No.2712105]

I just got my front loader, presumably pal (it was given to me by an uncle, I have no idea where he got it) nes out from storage upstairs last night, only to find that:

>it has no power cable
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play

Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work? Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it? (I have no case for the game unfortunately) Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play. I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port or sound through the av cables...? but for now I have no way to test it

[Anonymous No.2713617]

>>2712105
>it has no power cable
The original is 9Vac, 1.3A and a classic quality transformer with fuse.
>Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work?
You can simply take any other power supply with the right barrel plug (2.5x5.5mm) which either outputs 9-12V AC or DC and 1-1.5A, polarity doesn't matter here.
You should be able to buy such a power supply on eBay or whatever you like.
Usually there are many intended for LED strips or maybe some laptops but DON'T buy a aftermarket power supply which is 'made' for NES or other retro systems, these suck ass.

>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Well, the PAL version of that game (if it's the first) is kinda rare IMO.
>Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it?
For a long time it could but it sure can be fixed if you take your time and be patient, you properly have to bend every pin manually with some safety pin or fine screwdriver.
Aftermarket 72pin connectors are also not recommended as they don't have any gold coating like the original one and can fuck up your games.
To ensure that cartridge based consoles work reliably, you should clean every game you get and simply don't insert games that aren't clean. Simply keep the console and cartridges as clean as possible then they work perfect every time, like mine.
My NES,SNES,N64 and GB always work on the first try, if not then on the second or third attempt and that happens very rarely.
>Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play.
Yes, simply plug some good RCA cables into the video (yellow) and audio (red) jacks on the side to the AV input of your TV and you should be ready to go.
>I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port
RF jack is white and on the back, you don't need this shit and better follow the above advice.

[Anonymous No.2715480]

Gonna buy this for very cheap.
Any good way to remove the yellow tint?

[Anonymous No.2715495]

>>2715480
See >>2711691

[Anonymous No.2715498]

>>2715480
>>2715495
You're better off painting it, when you use Retrobrite it will come back within 4 years so it's kinda pointless.

[Anonymous No.2715504]

>>2715498
Four years sounds alright.

[Anonymous No.2715523]

>>2715498
Because it's a natural reaction in the plastic, and will also compromise its strength, so throwing paint on it and ignoring it will only detriment you.

[Anonymous No.2717336]

[Anonymous No.2717337]

>>2717336
fucking phone, ignored all I wrote.

So, I got a PAL Mario land (I live on NTSC land) and no matter how many times I try, I always get pic related when I try to play it.

Already tried on a GB, a GBC, a GBA SP and a Super GB, all with the same results.

Already opened it up to see if there's any issue with it but I couldn't find anything, I also checked continuity and all pins seem to be properly connected to their corresponding legs.

Afaik, the GB is not region locked, so what could cause this problem?

[Anonymous No.2717347]

>>2717337
have you tired cleaning the pins? Glitched nintendo logo is sign that gb cant read the cart.

And yes, GB is not region locked.

[Anonymous No.2717424]

>>2717347
yeah, I cleaned them shiny, it should be working but the thing that bugs me is that it is always glitched in that exact way, on all gb's I've tried. I hasn't worked not even once since I got it, always that exact glitched Nintendo logo.

[Anonymous No.2717461]

>>2717336
>>2717337
Okay anon.
I just spent some time figuring out how exactly this:
http://gbdev.gg8.se/wiki/articles/The_Cartridge_Header#0104-0133_-_Nintendo_Logo
was build up and I wanted to know it anyways.
I can tell you that D6 is shorted to power (judging from the nice pic you posted), or in other words it's always 1 and never 0.
That must be pin 28 on the cart edge, pin 32 is ground and pin 1 is power (5V).
Measure if you have a short to power on that pin, if not then inspect the pin of the ROM.
I do have a defective Commodore character ROM, where one data pin is internally shorted to power and the difference between that and yours is that this one is NMOS where Nintendo's ROMs are mostly CMOS.

[Anonymous No.2717468]

>>2717461
Made a mistake.
It's D5 and it's cart edge pin is 27.

[Anonymous No.2717858]

>>2717461
>>2717468
I checked all pins to 3 and 30, none of them are shorted to neither 1 or 32. (2 and 31 are unused)

This is how they're connected.

[Anonymous No.2718359]

So I just bought a game gear and I was wondering what is the DC in used for?
Is it to play it without batteries?
Can I use any 9V DC or only specific ones?

[Anonymous No.2718375]

>>2718359
10V

[Anonymous No.2718384]

>>2718375
I've read that only in America 10V works, it's also written next to the input 9VDC

[Anonymous No.2718460]

>>2717858
Now this is starting to get weird.
Perhaps the bonding wire (the connection between outside pin and silicon die) got damaged but that doesn't make much sense as this ROM never gets hot nor is it prone to electromigration as the current was always very small (<1mA) in normal circumstances.
You can find this out by measuring these two ESD protection diodes (see pic) which are on every pin, if you don't know how to measure diodes then ask google.
If you can't measure the proper forward voltage of around 700mV then it's open and it would explain why the CPU reads a 1 on that pin because if you turn on a GB with no cartridge then you simply get black block instead of the Nintendo logo as the CPU only reads 0xFF (D0-D7 are 1) on the data bus at address 0x0104-0x0133.

>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
You don't need to do that, only pin 27.

[Anonymous No.2718494]

>>2718359
>>2718375
>>2718384
for whatever reason, the PAL region game gears use the earlier, thicker, master system/megadrive model1 style power adapters.

pic related

[Anonymous No.2718665]

>>2718359
I found 6 batteries and turned the thing on,
now, the screen can only be seen at a weird angle, but that's alright,
I'm worried though because there is no sound, what could it be?

[Anonymous No.2718771]

>>2718460

>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
>You don't need to do that, only pin 27.

whoops, I meant from 3 to 30, just to make sure none of them were shorted to 1.

I'm gonna check those protection diodes.

[Anonymous No.2719245]

Here's a tough one: this original PS1 dualshock was in perfect, mint condition, until I used this motherfucker chinese adapter to play on my PC with it. After using it a couple of times, now the X button is dead. It doesnt work even in the console.

Is there anything I can do, not being an expert electrician? I assume some connector got burned out or something, but it somehow only affects that one button. Any ideas?

Pic related, its my controller and the fucking adapter I wish I never bought

[Anonymous No.2719286]

>>2718665
Replace the capacitors.

[Anonymous No.2719637]

>>2719245
Without being able to tell with a multimeter exactly what voltage the adapter is sending to the controller, and without being able to see the controller's PCB to look for damage, no, we really can't help you. If you want to take a multimeter to the adapter or open the controller up and show us the PCB, we might be able to help, otherwise what do you expect us to be able to do?

[Anonymous No.2719747]

Could I take a SNES advantage or NES advantage board and convert it to use real arcade components? Seems like an easy way to refurbish my busted button sticks and get superior quality.

Im not at homefor the next few days so I can't look at the boards.

[Anonymous No.2720186]

>>2719747
If you want to make a new enclosure for it then it's definitely something you could do.

[Anonymous No.2720310]

>>2719747
I got my super advantage and score master this weekend. Stripped them down to clean inside and out.

Hey are rather shallow, so would struggle to fit full size arcade buttons

You could install tactile switches under the buttons in place of rubber domes and wire them to the PCB.

I'm making a shed arcade stick using proper arcade stick and buttons, a Tupperware enclosure and a Chinese SNES controller PCB / cable.

[Anonymous No.2720334]

>>2720186
>>2720310
I'd definitely be building a case for it. The shell is smashed on my SNES advantage and it doesn't let me use the turbo switches because its so bashed up.

I would just use a standard SNES/NES controller but I do kinda want the extra features the advantage controllers have, like turbo, auto-fire, etc.

I'll probably end up ordering some buttons and a stick then. I never cared for the squishy feel of those advantage sticks.

[Anonymous No.2720562]

>>2719637
Well, your post alone is telling me where to start checking what's the problem. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2720848]

>>2688179
I just repaired my N64 PSU (230V).
I guess my hacked together MultiAV plug shorted 12V (added via a diode 1N4007) to ground and the "voltage monitor" failed to sense the drop fast enough and didn't shut it off and this caused that the fuse for 12V tripped.

Careful inspection revealed that this PSU has at least 5 protection components:
-Picofuses with 125V 5A for 3.3V (ICP2) and 2.5A (but a 2A was installed instead) for 12V (ICP1), located near the silver heatsink
-Thermofuse 125°C on golden looking heatsink for the transistor Q1
-Thermoresistor R2
-Subminiature fuse 250V 1.6A right after the mains connector
Now there's a voltage monitor that will shut off both voltages if one of them is outside the correct range, if that happened then it needs to 'cool off' by disconnecting the PSU from mains for around 15 minutes.
Now the lack of 12V always causes it to shut off 3.3V, but it still allowed it to rise as I could see that the LED on the N64 flashed if I plugged it in.

Now that I got it running, I measured the voltages and with 3.2V; 10.5V they were little lower than they should be.
I thought that the 470ohm trimmer R33 was for output voltage adjustment and I was right, it increases or decreases both of them.
So it's very important that 3.3V is correct as it powers most important stuff directly, 12V isn't critical as it only goes to a 78M05 (5V for video/audio ICs), cartridge slot (only used by very special cartridges like the Wide-boy64) and the expansion port on the bottom.
Now what's quite weird is that the voltages increase a little bit if a load is attached (which is the opposite of linear transformers).
That's why it should be adjusted to 3.1-3.2V first with no load attached and then to around 3.35V with a load of around 1.7A on it along with a load of 100mA on the 12V rail or you could just stuff the bare PSU into the N64 and adjust it in there like I did.

[Anonymous No.2720852]

>>2720848
I salvaged a small 2A SMD fuse from some old PCB from a HDD.

[Anonymous No.2720863]

>>2720852
And this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide, if a certain one lacks the experience.
I attached the probes before connecting to mains.

[Anonymous No.2720871]

>>2720863
>this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide
Please, if you're old enough to understand repairs like this, wall current isn't going to kill you.

[Anonymous No.2720878]

>>2720871
I know, I couldn't think of something funny right now.

[Anonymous No.2721374]

Can anyone tell me why my Neo Geo CD's laser is fine, yet the drive motor won't spin the disc, even though the motor spins when a 9 volt battery is applied to its power terminals?

[Anonymous No.2721580]

>>2719747
You can quite easily add arcade buttons to the PCB but the actual housing might not accommodate them.

[Anonymous No.2722575]

What's best cable to use for NON-VGA Dreamcast games?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2722635]

>>2722575
Have RGB capable TV/Monitor? RGB SCART
Don't have RGB capable TV/Monitor? S-Video
Dreamcast has a quite nice quality S-Video signal in my experience.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2722638]

>>2722635
I also forgot to mention, there are a few games that don't work with RGB(without editting the disc image) either, so keeping an S-Video cable handy isn't a bad idea either way

[Anonymous No.2722953]

>>2722638
>>2722635
I've read that it's also possible to patch games to VGA and then burn them. Does this work, and without any glitches?

[Anonymous No.2723117]

>>2721580
Im not super experienced with circuitry.

Theres nothing really special required about swapping non-microswitched buttons for microswitched ones right?

[Anonymous No.2723169]

I'm going to be lubricating my DC's wormgear tomorrow. Should I use some on the plastic gears as well?

[Anonymous No.2723226]

>>2723117
It shouldn't be too difficult but the snes super advantage has very low clearance and the holes are small so arcade buttons would likely not fit.

Do you mean to replace the rubber membrane things with tactile buttons? That should work without too much effort.

[Anonymous No.2723909]

>>2722953
Or does this depend on the game?

[Anonymous No.2723914]

>>2723169
Sure, use white lithium grease.

[Anonymous No.2723929]

I have no experience with modding. I've been considering getting a Saturn, and I was wondering - how high is the mess-up potential in modifying a 50hz console to run at 60hz? My only alternative's buying a Japanese console and hoping the power converter doesn't fuck it up.

[Anonymous No.2724161]

Not exactly retro, but:
My Micro has had marks on the screen that I assumed were water damage, until I took the faceplate off and took a closer look.
It's something dried on the surface of the screen, so it's something I could clean.
My question is, what's the best way to do so without damaging the screen? I'm concerned a dry Q-tip might scratch it and I don't want to apply water or alcohol without being sure of it.
Also I'm aware the rest of it needs cleaning, that's beside the point.

[Anonymous No.2724165]

I want to patch my PAL DC games to VGA through a hex editor, do I have to use 0799A10 or does PAL need 0019A10?

[Anonymous No.2724440]

my retron 3(laugh) screen scrolls all the time. I can sort of fix it by having the video cable just barley connected but it's not perfect?

[Anonymous No.2724450]

>>2724440
Solution: don't buy hyperkin products anymore.

[Anonymous No.2724467]

>>2724450
so what would you suggest me buy?

[Anonymous No.2724476]

>>2724467
Original hardware, or just an HDMI cable and a PC controller. The Retron is just a bizarre, poorly built halfway point.

[Anonymous No.2725962]

I'm experiencing a weird issue with a snes controller I got at a yard sale. It works perfectly fine, as long as you only ever press any button one at a time. If you press two inputs at once, the game behaves as though there is no input at all. IE in Megaman X I cannot move to the left while jumping, and in LoZ I cannot walk diagonally. What could be causing this? I scrubbed the pads--no dice.

[Anonymous No.2726052]

>>2724161
The dollar store has a screen cleaning kit with a microfiber cloth. Spray on the cloth first, not directly on the screen.

[Anonymous No.2726057]

>>2725962
Did you clean both the rubber pads and the contacts on the board?

[Anonymous No.2726141]

>>2726052
Noted, thanks.
I suppose I should have mentioned for those unfamiliar with the Micro that when the faceplate is taken off as in pic, the LCD is exposed, hence my trepidation.

[Anonymous No.2726594]

>>2726057
Well I did my best on the board too, but after swapping parts between two broken controllers I am starting to think I didn't clean it hard enough.

[Anonymous No.2726743]

So My Saturn suddenly stopped working today. The disc drive just won't spin at all.
It was working fine just yesterday. I didn't move it around or anything.

I opened the Saturn once to wrap the disc tray switch-thing with tape so that it would let me open the lid while spinning the disc to perform disc swap (I only did disc swap once, to install pseudosaturn on my AR4 cart).

When I turn the Saturn on, the lens moves, but that's all it does. Discs won't spin.

[Anonymous No.2727123]

>>2709475
Phillips head screws are terrible, even with the right size driver you can still strip the screws due to excessive force required on some of them. My headphones for example only had 1 out of 6 phillips head screws removable without them being dremel'd into flatheads.

[Anonymous No.2727223]

>>2727123
Driving it in a small amount before trying to remove it does a lot to prevent that, with the added benefit of an orgasmic click if the screw hasn't been moved in a long time.

[Anonymous No.2727393]

>>2727223
Is that so? I'll take that into consideration in the future when dealing with phillips head screws, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2727549]

>>2727123
Nope. You're just using the wrong driver.

[Anonymous No.2727909]

I bought a lot of Metal Slug 1-4 and X on MVS.

1 2 and 3 work fine (well, one could argue that 2 being on perma-slow down is not "fine") but 4 and X are wrecked.

I've tried in all my slots. 4 doesn't shot half the graphics and then green screens if you make it through character select. X seems to have issues just straight up booting up.

Any ideas if I can even fix them? I cleaned the contacts after testing initially hoping it would fix it, but nothing. Then I took them apart and cleaned the rest of the board and its still doing the same thing.

[Anonymous No.2728936]

Anyone have any idea whats wrong with my Robotron 2084 arcade?

I've heard it's a bad rom chip on the video board but I'd like to be sure before I shell out a 100 dollars for a repairman to come fix it.

[Anonymous No.2728965]

>>2728936
Need more info. Looks like it's stuck in the startup tests. Knowing exactly where will give you a clue as to what's wrong. What happens before it stops? Do the startup sounds play?

[Anonymous No.2728984]

>>2728965
I plug it in and get that. If I leave it on a bit the screen wipes black from one side to the other and then that happens again.

[Anonymous No.2729001]

>>2728984
Does that random colored pixel page wipe from left to right before and/or after it wipes to black. Also, sound?

[Anonymous No.2729008]

>>2729001
No sound. The screen wipe does happen from left to right.

[Anonymous No.2729014]

>>2729001
To be more descriptive the screen turns black and the pink snow actually scrolls from left to right like it's trying to reset but failing.

[Anonymous No.2729148]

>>2729014
Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?

The pink snow moving is part of the normal startup. It should wipe then "scroll" and maybe repeat if the batteries are dead. But it should display some text in the black screen in between and after.

Probably the most you're going to manage to do on your own is reseat the roms. If you've done this before and and comfortable with it give it a try. There's a good chance it will improve things, if not fix everything. If not there's not much you're going to do on your own.

[Anonymous No.2729158]

>>2729148
>Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?

I bought it off a comic store owner. I used to play it at his shop. He said that it stopped working after a while and it was getting too expensive to keep fixing. People would come in and really abuse the machine, anime con people. He left it down in storage for a good while before he sold it to me. I loaded it up in the back of a van where it was stable and then stuck it in my living room. I got it on the cheap because I was planning on fixing it.

[Anonymous No.2729372]

>>2729158
The bits that usually need fixing are on the panel where people abuse it. The guts are pretty sturdy as evidenced by it lasting as many years as it has. Unfortunately I'm guessing that if someone who had been fixing it for years gave up on it it's probably not a simple fix. Still, it's worth reseating everything to see what happens. It's not going to make it worse and might save you paying someone else to do it, because that's the first thing anyone is going to do.

[Anonymous No.2729373]

>>2729158
The best thing you can do is give the board a good, hard look over.

Look for scratches, damaged components, excessive dirtiness, or anything that looks wrong.

Also, if you go look up lukemorse1 on youtube, he has a lot of arcade board repair videos. You'll have to go back a bit for the better ones, but there's good info on what to look for and how to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2729492]

>>2729372
>>2729373
Thanks anons, I'll do that when I get home. I planned on giving it a good clean anyway. There's a bit of wico grommet rot. While I'm not confident with the electric part of the repair, the mechanical part I can do.

[Anonymous No.2729828]

I have this Game Boy that I found at a thrift shop for cheap, but the screen has a blank space on the right. It's blank, cutting off the picture, but I noticed vertical lines sometimes show up in that space. Is there a way to fix this?

Sorry for the dim screen in the picture...I took it at a game shop...I don't own any GB games, and I didn't realize that the screen wasn't showing well in the picture until I got home.

[Anonymous No.2729835]

>>2729828
Yes and no

The ribbon cable they used to attach the screen to the board was glued on. That glue has dried up and has come loose, thus loosing contact.

What I've done with some success is taking the rubber strip off protecting the cable and heat it with a low temperature with my soldering iron. Rub back and fourth on the problem spot but do NOT leave it in one place for too long, you will burn though the cable.

I do this while the Game boy is turned on with the contrast all the way into the black so I can see the lines. You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.

If done right, the glue will turn back into a semi stick stat and re-attach to the screen.

I've done this with some success. Some Game Boys I've fixed this way have stayed fine after, while others showed the problem again the next day.

[Anonymous No.2729847]

>>2729835
I did this different:
>You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
I just let it cool off and if it vanished again then I repeated it over and over again.

>while others showed the problem again the next day.
The one I did stayed fine for 4 years because I didn't used double sided tape for the rubber strip. The one I did a few months ago was more worse than anons, half of the lines on the entire screen were missing and it took me 4 hours to solder them back and it still works nice.

Also put double sided tape on the rubber piece and put it back, or else it won't last at all.

[Anonymous No.2729853]

>>2729835
>>2729847

Thanks...I'll give this a try. I don't really have anything to lose if I fuck up.

[Anonymous No.2731187]

>>2729847
Hmm, alright.

Can the cable really take that much heat being applied to it?

[Anonymous No.2731450]

>>2729372
>>2729373
I cracked the sucker open and saw a LED that was spitting out an error code. 1, 2, 5. So 1 is the code for ram, 2 is second column row 5. least I know now.

[Anonymous No.2731564]

>>2731450
chips on the board i mean.

[Anonymous No.2731692]

>>2731450
Swap that chip with one next to it to confirm the error code changes and replace the defective chip. Or not if the chip actually just needed to be reseated.

[Anonymous No.2731787]

>>2731692
chips seated fine. Does that work? Can I just swap one chip for another? I thought you had to program the chips?

[Anonymous No.2731792]

A new soundtrack for Meridian 59 with all of the old ones and some new ones.
https://soundcloud.com/kaybeccab/jala3

Just a test track. Kinda shit.

[Anonymous No.2731805]

I made SNES > NES and a NES > SNES controller adapters by rewiring a pair of controller extennsion leads.

Used the pinout guide in pic.

They both work fine for their respective consoles and controllers, so I am positive that I have wired them correctly. All buttons work etc.

Only problems I face are as follows:

Official NES controller doesn't seem to connect properly 9/10 times. No connection seem to be loose and the controller works fine on my NES.
If I use the NES advantage it works 100% fine.
If I use an official NES controller with a replacement chinese connector, that works fine too.

Secondly; using the adapter on Mario Allstars, controls are picked up fine, but as soon Mario 1, 3 or Lost levels are selected, they will load and then reset back to the title screen.
Mario Bros 2 (USA) doesn't have this problem.
If I use a SNES controller to get Mario 1 or 3 ec. into the map screen or a level and then switch to a NES controller with adapter, everything works fine.

I ensured there are no bridged connections. The pins are all seated in the pastic properly etc.

Any ideas Anons?

[Anonymous No.2731813]

>>2731787
The problem is a RAM chip (small ones on the CPU board) not a ROM chip (big ones with labels on the ROM board). If you swap the ram chip with one next to it the error message will change if that's the problem. For example from 1,2,5 to 1,3,5. That's the simplest way to confirm if the ram chip is bad of it it's something else (bad socket, trace, etc)

[Anonymous No.2731830]

Anyone know tricks for faking a hdmi input?

I have a SCART upscaler, but it only outputs to the TV via HDMI if it sees a HDMI input too.
With no HDMI input, it doesn't activate any output, regardless of SCART input.
Hoping it doesn't completely rely on the external HDMI input passing through to give the TV a scart input.

Confirmed it's not my TV as there is an audio jack output on the upscaler, and that won't even output unless there is a HDMI input.

Got a majority refund based on this as I need to be able to use it when I don't have a HDMI device to input into the upscaler but connect my SNES / N64 etc. to a DVI monitor.

Tried linking the +5V line on the scart (Pin 16) to +5V line on HDMI (Pin 18) but this didn't do anything.

Can you use some of the Scart input lines bridged to the HDMI input to maake it think it is receivng a signal?

[Anonymous No.2731843]

>>2731830
No not enough information. We have no way of knowing what causes your device to output via HDMI and no way to find out because you've provided no information.
If you're going to tie 5v to something you'd probably want to tie it to hot plug detect.

[Anonymous No.2731876]

>>2731843
I've come here and asked because I don't know much at all about video technologies beyond composite and RGB.
I have provided the useful information I can think of off the top of my head.

You could have at least advised on a comprehensive list of useful information required that I can go and gather and how I would go about it so we can progress.

Have tried +5V to the hotplug, but again there was nothing.
There can only be a limited number of pins used to get a device to read that it's got some form of input and activate.

I'll tell you that it's one of these Chinese cheap HDMI upscalers, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-SCART-to-HDMI-Upscaler-Converter-Monitor-HDTV-Wii-Sky-XBox-PS3-STB-TV-DVD-/331657842886?hash=item4d385910c6
Someone will tell me to fuck off and get a decent upscaler, and I will tell them that it's not for the speed or qualty, just reitterate it's so I can use SCART on a DVI mnitor.

[Anonymous No.2732387]

>>2731876
I have the exact same adapter, and it works without something pluged in "hdmi input". Even tried with a DVI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter.

You just got a defective unit I guess

[Anonymous No.2732870]

>>2731813
Oh I see. It's like computer ram. Bad ram chip you swap ports to find if the ports bad or the chip is. Gotcha.

[Anonymous No.2732874]

>>2726743
Try unplugging and plugging the CD board back in. Also pull the CD spinner up a little bit

[Anonymous No.2733163]

>>2729835
Not him but do u know a way to fix horizontal lines?

[Anonymous No.2733185]

>>2733163
Your LCD panel is most likely fucked.

[Anonymous No.2733461]

>>2733185
Well, shit.

[Anonymous No.2733918]

>>2731876
>HDMI has a limited number of pins
genius

[Anonymous No.2734090]

>>2733163
>>2733185
The ribbon cable for horizontal is made of paper and graphite.
It's hidden under the panel on the right side.
If it's possible to find a suitable replacement then it just needs some serious and epic solder skills to master this.

[Anonymous No.2734656]

Got a sports edition Dreamcast discovered pic related part came off the power board after hearing a rattling noise. Should I be worried? The console plays fine from what I've tested.

[Anonymous No.2734940]

>>2734090
Yeah, it's fucked for like 99% of people.

Just would be easier to get a junk game boy and try and salvage the front LCD and board from it.

>>2734656
A missing cap is NEVER a good sign even if the console works.

I'd find a replacement ASAP.

A clear picture would be nice but it says 16v. I can't really make out the number under it. That's the capacitors rating.

You're going to need some soldering skills to replace it

Does it look like it came out of the slot there marked C53?

[Anonymous No.2734950]

>>2734940
it looks like 330uF from the pic. Could be OK could be bad, depends where it is in the power section, looks like it's the output smoothing cap for the 12V rail considering the size, position, and 16V rating. Might function ok, the problem is when something spurious happens on the rail, without the cap it might take out some other components.

Should be able to solder it or find someone to solder it.

[Anonymous No.2734958]

>>2696040
Good job man, was about to tell you to look up the data sheet, or just hook it up with jumpers such that you could easily remap the buttons while playing a game with a known controller config.

[Anonymous No.2734974]

>>2734656
Re solder it. However make sure you solder it back in the correct polarity (it seems to me that the negative leg goes into the left side - it is marked on the board, just check the other caps). If you put it in backwards, bad things will happen, possibly explosive ones.

What that capacitor does is dampen any frequency ripples and generally act as an electric buffer. The machine will work without it to a degree, but it may be less stable, hence "to a degree" - it might stay rock stable, it might crash or overheat twice as easily.

If you replace it, make sure you keep the exact same uF rating, and that the voltage is AT LEAST as high as the cap you replace. You shouldn't use lower voltage caps. Higher voltage will work equally fine, but is more expensive, so a waste of money (you won't feel like that if you buy 1 cap, but once you buy them in the dozens...).

The thing I'd most be concerned with, is whether the solder pads on the bottom are still intact, or if they got broken off the PCB. A through-hole cap shouldn't just fall off like that.

[Anonymous No.2735057]

>>2734974
>>2734940
>>2734950
Thanks for the replies. The capacitor did come from the C53 port, and the capacitor is a 16v 330uf. Luckily my roommate is good with soldering so I might just ask him to have a go at it. If shit hits the fan I can just replace the entire power supply right?

[Anonymous No.2735059]

>>2735057
Yes, but you'll need to replace it with the same style. I know there might be a few versions of it.

[Anonymous No.2736993]

I order one of these OriginalXbox-to-USBport adapters online two weeks ago and it finally arrived in the mail today.

The first thing I did was plug it in and then plugged a Playstation-to-USB adapter onto it and plugged in my Dualshock2 controller. The Playstation adapter lights up and the Dualshock2 lights up when you press the Analog button, but it doesn't work on the XBMC dashboard and doesn't work in the NES emulator either.

Any ideas on what I have to do to make it work? I know the cable itself functions, I plugged in a USB flashdrive into it and XBMC detected it.

[Anonymous No.2737078]

>>2736993
All that cable does is make a USB drive show up as a memory card.

It doesn't convert any signals.

I really hope you didn't but it with the intention of playing with a PS2 controller.

The main thing they're used for is soft modding xboxes.

[Anonymous No.2737091]

>>2737078

One of the reviews on the product said that they used it to play their Genesis and Saturn controllers with it, using another USB adapter for them as well.

Here's the exact product I purchased
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SMCJB4Y

[Anonymous No.2738073]

ps dual shock controller issue, d pad and left shoulder buttons have gone dead, left stick still functions ,right side functions intact,
what actions could I take to repair?

[Anonymous No.2738435]

So being the fucking dunce I am I just fried my PSOne by feeding it 9 V (merely weeks after I finally modchiped the fucker). I figured if it was OK with 8.5 (PS2 PSU) 9 wouldn't hurt... I was wrong...

Sorry for the extreme potato quality photo.
Damage seems very localized though, and I was thinking maybe it would be possible to repair? From what I can see it's only these two SMD components? Then again what you don't see can always be much worse, can't it?

The motor of the CD unit smells kind of strange too though, and I'm wondering if it's possible that that's fried too. In which case just getting a new mobo is out of the question.

[Anonymous No.2738450]

>>2738435
So for your extreme potato quality brain

[Anonymous No.2738462]

>>2738450
Yeah. I guess the lesson is don't fuck around with this shit while drunk. Also I've gotten too used to 7805-equipped units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in them.

[Anonymous No.2738470]

>>2738462
>units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in

You are an unbelievably dumbass.

[Anonymous No.2738472]

>>2738470
Well to an extent you don't overheat the regulator of course (and you shouldn't fuck up the polarity). But I've put in from 6 V to like 10 V in ye old SFC and PC Engine and they work fine. I think 9 is canonical for those though?

But enough of calling me a dumbass, I'm already aware of this fact, and more helping me analyze the situation here. Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?

[Anonymous No.2738876]

>>2738472
>Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?
Who knows. Replace the obviously damaged components and try again.

[Anonymous No.2738946]

>>2738876
What are they though? Fuses? Resistors? Anybody here who happens to know PSOne schematics?

[Anonymous No.2738951]

>>2738946
Next time just use the power supply it was designed for you fucking moron.

[Anonymous No.2738956]

>>2738946
I'm not sure. I would guess fuses, because it seems logical, but I don't have a PSOne to reference.

>>2738951
Go choke on your own dick, that's irrelevant to repairing it now.

[Anonymous No.2738975]

>>2738435
It's was a diode, Google psone d004.

[Anonymous No.2738984]

>>2738946
>>2738435
I just realized I've somehow made the board short. With a continuity tester all three pins on the DC jack are continous with ground... just what the fuck did I pull off yesterday?

[Anonymous No.2738987]

>>2738984
>>2738975
After some googling it seems like I might've reversed the polarity, since that's what other people with blown D004's seem to have done.

I wish I had another PS1/PSOne lying around to try the disk assembly in... It certainly smells suspicious.

[Anonymous No.2738998]

>>2719245
Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say that I had this same problem. Killed the X button on my favorite PSOne controller. The adapter worked fine for a long time before it happened.

[Anonymous No.2739040]

>>2719245
You can buy a PS4 controller and use it out of the box on PC.

[Anonymous No.2740642]

>>2688179
I'm trying to restore an old SNES, but I need to take out those goddamn screws it has.

And I don't know how to improvise a screwdriver for these. Or how such screwdriver would be called.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2740673]

>>2740642
What you're looking for are gamebits, like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6

You can get them from other places, these just happen to be the pair I use.

[Anonymous No.2741510]

Hi! Guy who fried his PSOne here, some 12 V Zener Diode shopping later. The PSOne seems to be working fine now. This post >>2738975 got me in the right direction, thanks.

I've also learned a lesson to be more careful what PSUs you plug into equipment. Especially when it comes to late 90s CMOS equipment that is anal about voltage and even current.

[Anonymous No.2741824]

>>2688179

Okay so Im hooking up my SNES and Gamecube with composite cables (RYW) and I'm looking to buy a tv (need to get HD for convenience, can't go with CRT) and I notice pretty much all the units available have component inputs (RBG). I'm wondering will I be able to connect? I can really go with any model, probably gonna go with a samsung, insignia, dynex for around 200. Do I need an adaptor of some kind? Thanks in advance

[Anonymous No.2742069]

>>2741824
Just get a GC component inputs (RBG) cable. kek

[Anonymous No.2742072]

>>2742069

does anyone besides bait want to help me out?

[Anonymous No.2742395]

>>2742072
OK. Sorry. I was just having a laugh. Just make sure your new TV has composite (RYW) and use that. You might be able to squeeze something better out of the setup but that' ll do.

[Anonymous No.2743403]

I have a Mega CD with a typical blown fuse issue. I never got around to fixing it, but around the time it blew, I found a video on Youtube with someone who doesn't just replace the fuse, they wire it up so you can swap it easy any time it breaks.

Has anyone seen this? I've searched for it again and haven't found it. Most videos are just the standard how to take out a fuse, etc.

[Anonymous No.2743583]

>>2741510
How you needed to learn that lesson is behind me. Its obvious.

[Anonymous No.2743596]

>>2742072
Do new TVs not have composite? I don't own one, so I don't know. Doing a quick search on eBay, I see that converters do exist, although they seem expensive. I will say that one day I went to look at how my parent's DVD player was hooked up to their TV, and they were using a composite cable through the component ports...I don't know why it worked, but it did.

[Anonymous No.2743614]

>>2743596
nowadays composite is usually shared with Y from component

[Anonymous No.2743819]

>>2743596
Never seen one that doesn't but no doubt someone will eventually make one without it to save a few bucks.

[Anonymous No.2743972]

>>2743403
Was it an inline fuse holder?

[Anonymous No.2744081]

>>2741824
Component isn't RGB, it's YUV. RGB isn't encoded, while YUV is.

[Anonymous No.2744663]

>>2743583
We all have bad days.

[Anonymous No.2744947]

>>2688179
Guys I know this "non-retro issue" problems these threads have been dealing with, and this is probably the least retro issue posted on these threads, and I apologize in advance but really, there's no other place to ask in the whole 4chan.

So, my Wii U Gamepad left analog stick has become faulty (it suddenly moves wherever the hell it wants), I have several busted controllers from other consoles for spare parts, soldering is not a problem. But I really don't want to open this thing yet unless I am 100% certain I have the correct replacement part.

So the question is, can I use a PS3, Xbox 360 or Wii U Pro analog joystick module to replace the one on the Wii U Gamepad?

[Anonymous No.2744990]

>>2744947
PS3 uses a smaller size analogue stick, I know for sure that Wii U pro is identical. I believe 360 is the same as you can swap the thumb stick caps between the two.

[Anonymous No.2745186]

>>2688179
please stop posting this picture without the white dot in mario's pupils, thank you

[Anonymous No.2745340]

Here's a niche repair log.

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/58578/

[Anonymous No.2745410]

I'm finding myself playing more NES games in marathon fashion, and after one instance in Life Force I'm finding a worry for secure contact connections. Is it worth it to buy a top loader for this? From what I've seen they only do RF output, is it easy to mod them to do other things, like composite or even component?

[Anonymous No.2746153]

So, my PS2 is officially not reading some of my PS1 discs, so I need to replace the laser. I'm wondering if there's a recommended laser to get because I know at least some PS2 lasers have calibration problems and hit the disc?

[Anonymous No.2747278]

>>2736993
So let me get this straight... Because basic serial devices work with it, you think an encoded device like a PS2 controller would work?

[Anonymous No.2747292]

Any tips to a guy who has never soldered before who is about to change out the caps on an original NES? Trying to fix the dreaded "wavy line" video out put after trying everything else.

[Anonymous No.2747301]

>>2747292
Don't go directly into replacing the caps, find a cheap or broken electronic and practice removing and resoldering things on that first.

[Anonymous No.2747365]

On paper, it looks easy, and I've done reading on the subject, but I am having a hard time figuring out what are the pitfalls- how do you know when you've made a mistake?

[Anonymous No.2747447]

>>2747365
>how do you know when you've made a mistake?
If you ask yourself "have I practiced how to do this several times?" and the answer is "no" then it would be a very serious mistake to proceed.

[Anonymous No.2747476]

Right. I will take your advice and practice on a junk board. Taking the solder off with braid seems easy. I'm worried about, once I stick the caps wires through the holes and attempt to dab solder on them...if I get too much or too little, if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?

[Anonymous No.2747593]

>>2747292
Are you using the proper power supply? If you're using pic related, it will fuck up your output because of interference. You might be able to fix it with a ferrite ring, but you'd probably be better off getting a proper AC adapter.

[Anonymous No.2747629]

Does anyone have any experience with replacing dead save batteries in Game Boy games? Am I better off buying a regular CR2025 battery at a store and taping it in (as in this video https://youtu.be/RsROHA7RUCQ)), or is it worth buying the batteries on ebay with soldering prongs on them already?

[Anonymous No.2747641]

>>2747629
Buy it at the store and tape it in.

[Anonymous No.2747664]

>>2747593
>supply continuous power
>easy to use
Thanks China, very considerate of you to cover all the bases.

[Anonymous No.2747719]

>>2747593
Tried different power supplies. Is there ever a reason to believe that the original power supply could go bad, because that is what I started with.

What exactly does the ferrite ring do- shielding?

[Anonymous No.2747775]

>>2747476
>if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
The green coating is meant to prevent solder from sticking anywhere it's not supposed to. As long as you aren't using too much, it'll stay where you put it. If it's getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down.

[Anonymous No.2748392]

Some guy is selling a copy of alien soldier for the mega drive (european version).
How can i know if that is not a repro?

[Anonymous No.2748394]

>>2747719
Its supposed to help out with interference from the power cord, though I haven't actually tested it myself. If you're using an AC adapter outputting 9v 1.3A and you're still getting interference, I guess its not the power cord. Just wanted to throw that out there since a lot of resellers package garbage cords.

[Anonymous No.2748395]

>>2748392
Ask him. If he says yes, believe him. If he says no, call him a liar and walk away.

[Anonymous No.2748401]

>>2748392
Check that the label fits right and doesn't look like something that was printed and stuck on.

If you're really paranoid, open it up and check the board to see if it looks like a hand soldering job.

[Anonymous No.2748404]

>>2748395
>>2748401
It looks fine, i think.
And he was extremly cautious about the payment and shipping (he called me 4 different times to make sure about the way i wanted to pay, what shipping i wanted, if my address was correct and to call him back when it arrives)

[Anonymous No.2750087]

So, I'm looking to knock out the NES CIC chip with the two wire mod. Thing is, I don't have the revision they have on the few sites that show the points to solder to.

Would anyone have any high resolution of each NES board revision? Bonus if you provide the two wires you need to connect to knock out the CIC chip

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2750089]

>>2750087
The mod I'm talking about FYI

[Anonymous No.2750112]

>>2750087
Is the chip damaged?

[Anonymous No.2750117]

>>2750112
No?

I want to knock it out so I don't have to deal with the flashing screen. This is a better solution in my book then ripping a leg off.

[Anonymous No.2750119]

>>2750117
The flashing screens are not the problem of the lockout chip. Do you remove your car doors because one of the windows is stuck?

[Anonymous No.2750125]

>>2750119
Not this shit again.

Listen, I can clean and clean the games and clean some more. Some just flat refuse to work with the CIC chip on the first boot.

So if you don't have anything valuable to add to this conversation, I ask you to stop.

[Anonymous No.2750132]

>>2750125
I don't care what you do, I'm just trying to tell you that removing the thing that tells you your shit is fucked up is stupid.


I take it you disconnected your check engine light, too?

[Anonymous No.2750159]

>>2750132
Not the previous poster, but that's a terrible analogy here. Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know. This isn't a fuse, this isn't a critical part of the system even. Nothing will blow up, nothing will act differently (except you can boot more games, more reliably), absolutely nothing of value will be lost either.

[Anonymous No.2750186]

>>2750159
>Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know

Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones. If it's not reading the game well enough to allow play, there's a chance it'll fuck it up.

[Anonymous No.2750227]

Oh a repair-related thread, that's cool.
I checked the wiki but didn't find info in the DS section much so I guess I'll post here.

I have a black DSi where the right shoulder button doesn't work anymore. I don't know what has happened to it. I think maybe some juice spilled under it. It doesn't feel sticky, maybe a bit hard to press. The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.

Any quick&dirty tips on how to fix it, or would I need to open the thing up and mess with the insides? Everything else about the console works fine, not that I play with it much anymore anyway.

[Anonymous No.2750230]

>>2750227
>The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.

The microswitch is shot and needs to be replaced.
The upside is that it's a simple ribbon cable swap out, and replacements are pretty cheap.

[Anonymous No.2750242]

>>2750186
>Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones.
my nes CIC chip has been disabled way back in 90's and it never caused any problems, and even nowadays it works perfectly.

[Anonymous No.2750250]

>>2750242
>I don't personally have a problem so it's literally impossible!

Sure, whatever, I don't even care.

[Anonymous No.2750256]

>>2750227
>>2750230
same thing happened to my 3DS once, replacing the microswitches did it.

[Anonymous No.2750258]

>>2750250
why did you even bother to reply then? Do you even have any proof that it can cause problems?

[Anonymous No.2750263]

>>2750258
Because it's common knowledge that shitty contact causes screen flashing, and shitty contact can freeze your game and corrupt save data.

If you deny any of these, you're top-speed retard.

[Anonymous No.2750265]

>>2750263
thats completely unrelated to disabling CIC chip though

[Anonymous No.2750268]

>>2750265
>I'm going to disable this to stop the screen flashing!

>not related to screen flashing and other symptoms of bad contact


Of course, anything to keep your simple mind secure.

[Anonymous No.2750273]

If I used this one a console, and connect the VGA to a beamer. Would I get an image?

[Anonymous No.2750278]

>>2750273
no

also what console has a female scart output stock?

[Anonymous No.2750312]

>>2750268
Then tell me what are downsides of disabling CIC when there are no problems with the contacts(cart and the 72-pin connector itself)? I never mentioned contacts or flashing in the first place because its not issue for me(I can clean my games), is that so fucking hard to understand?

Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games(latter via adapter) at silky smooth 50hz. If I dont game boots but nes keeps resetting(aka flashing screen), which is most commonly fixed by disabling the CIC chip, there are adapters for it but all they do is disable the CIC chip other ways anyway.

[Anonymous No.2750320]

>>2750312
>Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games

Wow, it's amazing what a reason behind doing something does!

The reason I say this when people come on here wanting to disable the lockout chip is because almost every single one has the misguided opinion that it is the end-all fix for any game reading issue the system has. If you'd mentioned playing games from other regions here>>2750087, I wouldn't have mentioned it.

[Anonymous No.2750321]

>>2750230
>>2750256
Microswitches, right. I'll google that and see what I come up with. Thanks for the quick response.

[Anonymous No.2750323]

>>2750321
Look for "DSi shoulder button replacement."

Try getting official parts if you can, new if possible, and replace both.

[Anonymous No.2750454]

>>2750278
None, I know, but if I put a SCART connector between them wouldn't it work?

[Anonymous No.2750698]

>>2750273
Only on some projectors specifically designed to work with SCART over DE-15. They're not that common, check its documentation. My older projector (Sanyo Z5) does that.

[Anonymous No.2750703]

>>2750454
Yes (but only if the projector can accept SCART RGB on DE15 to begin with).

The SCART/VGA connector you see here was meant to be used with VHS player (or LD players), which had a female SCART connector already.

[Anonymous No.2750719]

>>2750454
>>2750703
most projectors don't accept 15 kHz RGB what I know of.

[Anonymous No.2750785]

>>2715523
I was always under the impression a SNES would yellow if kept in sunlight. What if one used Retrobrite on a yellowing console and then kept it stored in a dark area?

[Anonymous No.2750824]

>>2750719
>>2750703
I've seen one with a VGA input which underneath says scart, that's why I'm asking.

[Anonymous No.2750875]

>>2750719
Haven't had any issues with a SNES on my Sanyo Z5 in RGB, but it's been a while. I should have checked if it was outputting 240p or 480i, but didn't care at the time (it just worked, I didn't think much ot it).
As usual, getting the device's documentation is key. Projector manuals have a shit ton information on the supported video modes, spanning sometime 5 pages.

[Anonymous No.2751498]

>>2750719
My experience as well. Many support 15khz on component which 15hkz RGB can be converted to easily, cheaply, and without lag. That's probably anyones best bet unless they already have a display that handles RGB

[Anonymous No.2751619]

>>2750785
It would still happen, just much slower. It's the oxidization of the fire retardant they used in the plastic.

[Anonymous No.2751860]

>>2750089
>>2750087
So no one has any more information on this mod?

No one can just shut the fuck up and stop bickering about the functions of the CIC chip?

[Anonymous No.2751869]

>>2751860
>No one can just shut the fuck up and stop bickering about the functions of the CIC chip?

Why the fuck should I give you any information when you're acting like a child about this?

[Anonymous No.2751872]

>>2751869
How am I acting like a child? I wasn't the one you argued with at all.

[Anonymous No.2751884]

>>2751872
>guy gives no information on why its being disabled.
>common misconceptions on this very thread series is that disabling this means your system will magically work forever without cleaning
>explain this and why it shouldn't be disabled
>guy whines on, only informing why several posts on
>other guy immediately accepts the reason, because it's actually a reason
>you come in and tell people to shut the fuck up and stop bitching
Sure thing, let's just stop telling people correct information when they say they're going to do something, because you don't like it.

[Anonymous No.2751891]

General cleaning aside, is there anything I should be doing to my retro consoles to preserve the life in them, or make them "better than new"? I'm looking mostly for simple mods for consoles. I once read that you could replace the capacitors in a SNES to get better sound quality. Are there any small tweaks that you do when buying a new console from a thrift shop?

[Anonymous No.2751898]

>>2751884
Excuse me?

I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.
>>2750087
>>2750089
>>2751860

I just want my CIC chip disabled without ripping the leg off the chip Is that so hard to understand? I know it's not a fix all, but I've cleaned my NES, I've cleaned my games, and I've done everything possible to get games working on it and some games just flat out refuse to work on the first boot. The CIC chip is flawed technology. Why do you think they released a top loader without it? Because it just does not work well in the front loader NES.

I for one would love to keep my NES all "orgional" but like I said, the technology is flawed, un-needed, and down right intrusive to keep in a NES.

So, if you really don't have anything to add to help with this simple mod, I'll be ending it here.

Maybe I can get some help from some other people who don't have their head so far up their ass they're looking at their tonsils.

[Anonymous No.2751904]

>>2751891
submerge all cartridge-based systems in an aquarium filled with mineral oil to prevent overheating and humidity-based damage permanently

[Anonymous No.2751905]

>>2751891
Replacing the caps in a SNES is going to be semi-hard due to most of them being surfaced mounted.

There are some though hole capacitors that you could replace though easily.

Just don't go trying to re-cap a SEGA Genesis. They're a real nightmare of capacitors. I think I counted around 40 when I tried doing one.

[Anonymous No.2751939]

>>2750321
You're going to need ones that are OFF-MOM

just means off-momentary.

[Anonymous No.2751987]

>>2751898
>Excuse me?
>I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.

The weird thing about anonymity is that if someone else answers something I asked you, I don't know it's not you.

[Anonymous No.2752163]

I have a copy of Parasite eve for the playstation and I'm getting black screens at a specific point on the second disc. Is this likely a glitch or the cd itself? When it came to switch the discs it didn't register that I had the disc in, but after I wiped it with a cloth it worked. The disc itself has a about 12 small scratches in a certain area and lots of extremely fine scratches everywhere else. I have no access to a disc resurfacer so should toothpaste suffice?

[Anonymous No.2752165]

>>2752163
If you have a pawn shop near you, you most likely have access to a disk resurfacing machine. They charge anything from $1-3 per disk usually.

As for the tooth paste trick, its iffy. What are you playing it on? PS1? PS1 small, PS2, or PS2 slim?

[Anonymous No.2752174]

>>2752165
fat ps2.

[Anonymous No.2752181]

>>2752174
It's most likely the disk having a few scratches.

That or the fact that fat PS2s are starting to die out. They have two adjustments on their laser units. One for DVD and one for CD. It's most likely the disk though.

Before smearing anything on it, I'd clean it with a microfiber cloth from center out (not in a circle pattern) with some 70% alcohol

[Anonymous No.2752187]

>>2746153

Anybody have an answer?

[Anonymous No.2752192]

>>2752187
You're going to have to provide us with more information anon.

Model of PS2? Should be on the back starting with SCPH

[Anonymous No.2752196]

>>2752192

75001...Slim. I'll be here all night if you need anymore info.

[Anonymous No.2752202]

>>2752196
http://store.richspsxparts.com/slps2direerl.html

http://store.richspsxparts.com/pl270sev12la.html

I've bough from them before on E-bay and they're pretty good with shipping and parts.

Can't say for the quality of the replacements (didn't order a new laser)

[Anonymous No.2752216]

>>2752202

Okay, so I see a lot of really cheap ones on eBay...Are they all the brands listed in that link, or are they third party?

[Anonymous No.2752217]

>>2752216
There's only 3 types from what I can tell.

That's generally the case with laser units. 2-3 manufactures make them for one console.

[Anonymous No.2752223]

>>2752217

Okay...Thanks...That answers all of my questions, I think. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.2752312]

>>2752223
No problem. I'd like to think this place is full of semi useful people that don't bitch the first chance they get.

[Anonymous No.2752605]

Does anyone know what crystal oscillator I should buy for a Sega Genesis model 1 10mhz overclock?

I use digikey for almost all of my electronic parts purchases. I am pretty good at knowing reputable brands for things like capacitors and resistors. But I have no idea what to look for in a crystal oscillator.

I'd rather not buy a random no name off of digikey. I'd appreciate it if someone could give me a suggestion or link/part number to one I could buy.

[Anonymous No.2752669]

>>2752163
Don't use fucking tooth paste on a copy of Parasite Eve. Just go to any store that deals in used CDs and get it resurfaced.

[Anonymous No.2752797]

>>2752605
>reputable brands for things like capacitors and resistors
huhwut?

[Anonymous No.2752823]

>>2752797
For caps, some brands are indeed known to be higher quality - last longer, are closer to the given ratings, etc. From the top of my head, I think, Nichicon, Rubycon, and Nippon Chemi-Con are good brands. But there are many others, you should do some research.

[Anonymous No.2752957]

>>2743972
YES!

That's exactly what it was. Thanks. Still couldn't find the video but I can manage now, knowing what I have to do.

[Anonymous No.2753360]

>>2752823
So this is the "recap will fix it" version of the "taiyo yuden burn at lowest speed" maymay? You kids never cease to amaze.
>From the top of the google search I just did
kek

[Anonymous No.2753595]

>>2753360
>higher quality brands don't exist!

Sure thing, babby.

[Anonymous No.2753721]

Behold! The bottom screen of my Nintendo DSi XL. Can anyone give it a proper diagnosis?

[Anonymous No.2753723]

>>2753721
The problem in question is the blotch of light on the top left btw.

[Anonymous No.2753732]

>>2753595
>higher quality brands don't exist!
In this market segment pretty much. Those components have been commoditized for decades. Same with TTL. You're just buying into what some jewbay seller wants you to believe. inb4 your kidgooglefu learns you bout mil spec shit.

>babby
Normally I wouldn't take the piss out of a kid for a simple typo but in your case it's so ironic I can help myself.

[Anonymous No.2753735]

>>2753732
You're a stupid cunt.

Just letting you know.

[Anonymous No.2753742]

>>2753732
>Normally I wouldn't take the piss out of a kid for a simple typo but in your case it's so ironic I can help myself.

Are you new?

>>2753721
You're the last non-retro question I'm answering this week, congratulations.

It just looks like bleedthrough from the backlight. It should be fine.

[Anonymous No.2753746]

>>2753742
Is there a way to get rid of it? It's really distracting.

[Anonymous No.2753757]

>>2753746
You can see if the material used to block bleedthrough has come loose in that spot. You'll have to disassemble it to get there.

[Anonymous No.2753778]

>>2753732
>Those components have been commoditized for decades.
8/10

>babby
>"typo" rage
2.5/10

[Anonymous No.2753835]

>>2753735
u mad babby?

>>2753742
Nope, oldfag. U?

[Anonymous No.2753847]

>>2753835
>Nope, oldfag. U?

[Anonymous No.2754250]

>>2753757
Is there some sort of guide that could help me?

[Anonymous No.2754280]

>>2753847
So samefag then?

[Anonymous No.2754309]

>>2754280
More of a "here every thread helping who I can"fag.
I was here in the repair threads when they started, I'll be here until they end. Anything more than that isn't relevant.

>>2754250
This will get inside it and to the part you're looking for. Just take a good look at the screen assembly for any loose seals or whatever in that corner. I've only been in a standard DSi, so I can't give you any insight on how the touchscreen assembly is put together.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DSi+XL+Touchscreen+Replacement/3274

You should be able to get by using a small flat screwdriver instead of a spudger if you're gentle, and there will be some loud pops or cracking sounds as you pull it apart because of how it clips together, but going slow should prevent anything from breaking.

[Anonymous No.2754348]

>>2753732
> he never heard of chinese leakings caps in millions of mobos

[Anonymous No.2754375]

>>2754348
>le epic chinese maymay
>posted from my made in china iphone

[Anonymous No.2754392]

>>2754375
>yep, he really hasn't

[Anonymous No.2754923]

Have a strange problem with my PCE CD. I have a legit game which freezes at certain points, tried burning a copy and the same thing happens. Does anyone know what is causing this?

[Anonymous No.2755248]

its a ps2 controller mentioned in
>>2738073
any clues as to what this could be please?

[Anonymous No.2756041]

I have a PSP that I use for emulators and shit and I wanna play it on my TV.

Its a Metal Gear Peacewalker PSP-3000. I have component cables for it, I can get its menu onto the TV screen but as soon as I boot up anything the connection drops and it goes back to the PSP. This is including UMD, and emulators.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2756113]

>>2756041
Have you tried it with an OFW? It could be an issue with whatever CFW you're running

[Anonymous No.2758534]

does anyone have a remedy for wavy lines over S-Video on a model 2 saturn (round buttons)?

[Anonymous No.2758546]

>>2756113
I think its the shitty 3.00 shipped Chinese Cable I have.

I updated to latest firmware and nothing. I have an official sony cable coming, 10x the fucking price shipped, but it should actually fucking work.

My psp was barely recognizing the chinese cable.

[Anonymous No.2758737]

In the last two years I played a lot of emulated NES games on my pc and now I consider to buy some of theme on cartridge, but I am from Germany and don't own an old tv and wanted to clear some myths:

A NTSC Version looks and feels better than the PAL counterpart - due to higher frame rate and no black stripes; but even if you own a NTSC NES you can't play with it properly on a 60 Hertz CRT TV in Europe (Germany).
If you want to play NTSC games in the PAL region you have to play on a "newer" TV. But if you play it on a digital TV it would look better to play it on an emulator.

So the best way to play old NES games would be:

1. To play NTSC Games on an old CRT TV (Console)
2. To play NTSC Games an a digital TV (Emu)
3. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Conslole)
4. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Multinorm)

Please help me clear this out and keep in mind I have next to nothing experience with old consoles (my first console was an N64).
The first time I experienced the PAL differences was playing Crash Bandicoot in two version over the ps3 and I don't want to ever play an inferior version again.

[Anonymous No.2758792]

>>2758737
The best and easiest way is to play games from your region. Since they will be compatible with your power outlet, and TV's.

Otherwise you need an adapter, then an American TV, and all this other shit.

You people always overthink too much, just get your own stuff. PAL stuff is generally way less expensive then NTSC. The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.

[Anonymous No.2758823]

>>2758792
>then an American TV,
No SCART RGB, disgusting

[Anonymous No.2758830]

>>2758823
>m-muh superfluous connector!

[Anonymous No.2759216]

>>2758792
>The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.
Yeah, so many games running 10% slower than they are supposed to is perfectly fine.

PAL IS worse, it's not a meme. You guys got fucked back then.

[Anonymous No.2759259]

>>2695318
Tell him and get some money back.

But it's not a big deal. Still works right?

[Anonymous No.2759313]

>>2759216
"back then"
We got fucked over until 7th gen. SNES era? 50Hz. PSX era? 50Hz. PS2 era? 60Hz for the most part, but for gamecube, progressive scan was actively stripped out from all pal territory games despite a huge amount of the library supporting it.

Also got ganked on the rpg front by virtue of pal.

It wasn't until PS3 etc. that progressive scan and component/hdmi output actually became a mainstream option.

[Anonymous No.2759673]

>>2759313
I was actually talking more in regards to the way most lazy devs just slowed the game by 10% and called it a day. That was some half-assed porting.

[Anonymous No.2759690]

>>2759313
You forgot the Dreamcast which had PAL60 support on a lot of games, and could do 480p VGA out on almost every game.

[Anonymous No.2759714]

>>2759216
Picture quality wise, PAL is better than NTSC.

We only got fucked for videogames because all content was made in NTSC land.

Then again, you guys were limited to RF and at best Composite for ages, S-Video being obscure and almost never used, while we had glorious RGB Scart everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2759721]

>>2758737
any decently recent (ie from the mid 90s) euro CRT accepts NTSC composite video either through phono socket or scart, it's even more true with brand tvs like sonys. And a huge number of tv accept a 60hz signal through scart.
you can use an US NES (not the toploader because it's RF only) or a JP AV Famicom. You also need to be careful about power adapter, as those differ with regions. But sometimes you can use one from another console, ie a Megadrive 1 adapter will happily power a famicom.

[Anonymous No.2759742]

>>2759313
60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal. The GameCube is much better, 29 of the 30 games I have all support 60Hz with Luigi's Mansion being fullscreen 50Hz. For PS2 I stick to NTSC, Xbox I'm fine with PAL as that seemingly forces 60Hz. Dreamcast has fair 60Hz support for PAL stuff but I tend to go NTSC anyway due to game selection.

Prior to 6th gen though? NTSC all the way, fuck PAL.

[Anonymous No.2759761]

>>2759742
>60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal.
No shit.

FFX and X-2? Slowdown and no fullscreen.

Kingdom Hearts? Slowdown and no fullscreen, in an action RPG.

Devil May Cry? A game focused on FAST-PACED NON-STOP ACTION? Slowdown and no fullscreen.

Same happened in FF9 too if I recall, which got a lot of flack for being slow.

I knew this was bullshit at such a young age I was considering writing a letter to the EU trade officials to highlight an issue that gamers were suffering.

Worst part? A large amount of TVs (especially those with SCART sockets) in Europe were perfectly able to handle 60hz. It wasn't even an option.

[Anonymous No.2760562]

>ITT former soviet bloc kids bitch about not having multi system TVs like the rest of eurostan.

[Anonymous No.2760924]

>>2758737
I'm in Sweden and can only remember owning one TV that couldn't deal with 60 Hz properly, but it would still display. The picture would just be a bit "compressed" vertically with some white lines visible on top. But it ate PAL 60 just fine otherwise. I didn't have anything NTSC at the time, but I guess it wouldn't have worked with that old set based on its odd behaviour with PAL 60. All sets since that set have however been perfectly able to deal with both PAL 50Hz and 60Hz as well as NTSC.

I actually even remember having a set that could deal with PAL color over what I believe to be an NTSC carrier (a.k.a. ultra-wierd PAL60, what my region-modded Saturn seems to be giving me), but it looked like shit. But since trashing that set I no longer have any equipment (modern flat screens can't deal with it what I've noticed) that can deal with the composite signal it puts out (RGB works fine). On PVMs you can force the mode to NTSC and you get black & white picture or you can force the mode to PAL and you get a rolling color picture...

[Anonymous No.2760928]

>tfw PAL fags ruin everything

One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

[Anonymous No.2760931]

>>2760928
SNES PAL games are way more expensive than NTSC counter parts.
Vampire Kiss being the prime exemple

[Anonymous No.2760963]

>>2760928
>being this desperate to find someone to blame for inflated prices
I bet you're going to blame 90s kids next.

[Anonymous No.2761369]

>>2760928
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

I'd buy a different region, too, if mine was objectively inferior.

[Anonymous No.2761372]

>>2760928
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.

Guardian Heroes for Saturn costs an arm and a leg if you want the PAL or USA version, while the Japanese one goes for peanuts.

[Anonymous No.2761417]

>>2760928
>>2760931
oh and you don't know about the horrors of "Sealed blister" prices....

[Anonymous No.2761867]

I have a Sega CD that usually freezes right when the BIOS load. It'll show the picture of the earth but the music doesn't play and it doesn't go any further. I got it to load normally once but it won't do it again. I've tried cleaning the connection between the Genesis and the CD. Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2762049]

>>2688179
Are GDI's burnable?

[Anonymous No.2762598]

>>2762049
Oh boy. Simple answer, Yes but it will take some work. See this thread for details:
http://theisozone.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=4035

[Anonymous No.2762756]

>>2762598
Thanks, I don't really get it. The PAL version of Capcom vs SNK is about 1,10 GB while the NTSC version for some reason is 200 MB

[Anonymous No.2762820]

Will a NTSC Dreamcast (cdi format) burned game work with my PAL console?

[Anonymous No.2762826]

>>2762756
GD-ROMs have a max capacity of 1.2 GB's, which will not fit on a standard 80 min/700mb CD-R, so what people do is compress video and audio to fit it on.

[Anonymous No.2762831]

>>2762756
It's probably nearly a gigabyte of different language files for all that weird shit people speak there.

[Anonymous No.2762838]

>>2762820
you'll need to patch it to work on your PAL system, but it should work, though I don't know if you'll have issues with 50/60 hz shit

[Anonymous No.2762841]

>>2762831
900 MB of language files? Sounds extreme to me.

[Anonymous No.2762886]

>>2762841
To be fully EU compliant they need all the euro languages as well as those of all the browns and blacks that come there to collect benefits.

[Anonymous No.2762970]

>>2762886
BUT 900 MB?!

[Anonymous No.2763007]

>>2762820
Yes. No need to patch anything. Burn and enjoy. You'll only need a NTSC-compatible TV.

[Anonymous No.2763012]

>>2762756
That's just padding. Much better than none, if properly done (data pushed to the outside edge of the physical disc).

[Anonymous No.2763016]

>>2760928
Save for a few exceptions, game data is just game data. US and Euro discs usually contains the same exact content save for a few bytes in their header (region). There's often no advantage owning the US version of the game when you have the PAL one and a way of booting the game in NTSC mode on your machine.

[Anonymous No.2764236]

I had originally started a thread regarding a sound problem my SNES is having, but was referred to this general repair thread here.

my original thread is >>2763843

Basically, every time I load up a cartridge with the extra pins on the sides (meaning it has an enhancement chip) the screen starts humming and the sound comes out terribly distorted. If I insert a regular cartridge (with no additional tabs, only the center chip) then the sound is perfect with no humming nor distortion. I recently gave the pins in the cartridge slot a quick spraying and wipe down with some DeOxit contact cleaner, but I'm not seeing anything dirty there regardless.

The sound issue is only present in carts with the extra tabs for enhancement chips... That's all I can tell so far. I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet... But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?

[Anonymous No.2764413]

>>2733163
>>2733185
>>2733461
>>2734090
>>2734940

Some Aussie claims he can fix this issue

http://www.extremegbcollection.com/

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2764467]

Would it be possible for the ROM chip inside a copy of Sonic Spinball(or any other Genesis game) to just die and refuse to load the game?

I have repeatedly cleaned and reseated my copy of Sonic Spinball on multiple consoles with no luck in getting it to load at all.
I've opened it up, and can't really see any broken traces or cracked solder joints; Could it be the single resistor(I believe it's a resistor) that is causing the problem?

I get Spinball is a very cheap game, I'd just like to know why it doesn't work.

[Anonymous No.2764473]

>>2764467
only way to know for sure would be to dump the ROM and compare it to a known good dump. It's likely that the ROM chip has gone on you though, it happened to my copy of Pokemon Red that I got from a mate for free to try to fix, but couldn't get it to work past Oak's start speech.

[Anonymous No.2764564]

>>2764236
>(meaning it has an enhancement chip)
It is basically the B Address bus along with other control signals that are useless for simple cartridges that just contain memory.
SuperFX doesn't even use these but has them as most carts rather use their own master clock oscillator, only early Starfox carts are the exception and SA-1 uses only the master clock (pin 1) and WRAM refresh (pin 33).
>the screen starts humming
Really weird.
>the sound comes out terribly distorted
The 2 pins at the right are audio inputs (pin 31 and 62), only used by SGB and SD2SNES.

>But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?
For me it sounds like a serious voltage drop of the power supply.
As the hum could be your mains frequency finding it's way though the power supply into the 5V rail (causing video problems) and the ~9V before the 7805 (5V regulator) is very likely lower than 7V preventing the 7805 to work properly and cutting the signal output of the audio opamps (causing distortion of sound).
Cartridges with coprocessors do draw a little more current than simple ones (SuperFX draws about 50mA more), which is a sign that something's rather wrong with the power supply than console.

So what power supply are you using, NTSC or PAL, which games exactly do work fine and which ones doesn't?

>I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet
Right now you're better off connecting the SNES to a lab power supply, if the current at 9-12V is higher than 0.75A then something in the console draws way more current than it should be.

[Anonymous No.2764761]

I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.

I've held on to them since I was a kid.
I think the rusty one is my original that my grandma ended up keeping in a box on her porch after a hurricane.

ANYWAYS, my question is:

How much could I sell these for?
I'm sick of hoarding them.

Also, is there anything cool I could do with them? like a custom case I can make/buy or something.

[Anonymous No.2764778]

>>2764761
>I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.
>How much could I sell these for?
Broken shells and non-functional? I'd be surprised if anyone would pay more than $15 for one, if that.

[Anonymous No.2764779]

>>2764761

They sound pretty worthless. NES console is far from being a rarity and ca nbe easily found in decent condition. You wouldn't even get $3 each at a garage sale imo.

[Anonymous No.2764843]

>>2764778
They are functional. Just pain in the ass to get a game to not "BLINKING LIGHT" because old connectors.

>>2764779
>You wouldn't even get $3 each at a garage sale imo.

Thanks. No way I'd sell working NES's for 3$, but appreciate the replies.

[Anonymous No.2765069]

Got a Dreamcast VGA, but my tv says "Out of reach" pls help.

[Anonymous No.2765329]

>>2764564

Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed reply. I think you may be on to something here... Today it started acting up with every single cartridge (no matter if it had an enhancement chip or extra tabs or not... everything is buzzing when played now)... So I started looking into the power source... I do have an original AC adapter, but apparently the AC adapter port has become broken over time and is missing the ring in the center, leaving just the 2 pins that were apparently holding the ac adapter in place... The console will always turn on fin, but I'm guessing that has something to do with it changing the voltage along the way... I was hoping this would be an easy fix.

[Anonymous No.2765331]

>>2688308
Oh!
I've got experience with this stuff. I have an MVS that (thankfully) the previous owner replaced all the microswitches in before I got it...

But I do understand how that stuff works, and helped a friend replace all the buttons and switches when he got his.

Give me a few to type some shit...

[Anonymous No.2765342]

>>2764843
In all fairness I doubt your average person looking to pick up a console for themselves will know how to fix an NES and probably won't be motivated to learn how to do so. Your best bet would be selling to a flipper, but they probably won't pay too much.

[Anonymous No.2765357]

>>2688308
First up... How much do you already know? There's lots of general info which applies to MOST to ALL arcade controls that can help you here. But if you don't know much, it's still a pretty straightforward fix.

It's likely one of three things... Arcade buttons are comprised of the actual plastic housing you see from the outside (the pushbutton,) the micro switch that gets activated when you push down on the button, and the 2 wires that connect the switch to the main board.
1. The plastic button works may just be sticky or dirty.
2. The microswitch is worn and needs replacement.
3. The wires connecting the button are worn or faulty. (This one's unlikely, but troubleshooting 101 says we shouldn't rule that out yet.)

So again, how much do you know?

Also, again, this is a general arcade button fix. Neo Geo-related forums will likely help, but you needn't over specialize here. You can probably find how-to's on YouTube.

[Anonymous No.2765369]

>>2765357
Yeah, if his MVS is something purchased from arcade-use, it might just be time to replace the buttons.

[Anonymous No.2765380]

>>2765069
Move it closer. Lolololol.

No srsly...
It probably means the TV doesn't support the format. This is the common reaction when the game you're trying to play doesn't support VGA.

That's right. Not ALL DC games support VGA-out. It's a bummer.
Double check. Make sure the game you're playing does. Should say it on the game case. You should also make sure you can at least get the DC menu when you start it up with no game in / the lid open. You wanna rule out the box itself being the issue.

[Anonymous No.2765412]

>>2719245
DualShocks typically don't have your run of the mill Printed Circuit Board (PCB.) It's usually this thin celophane-ish affair right below the buttons. Personally, I feel like that's just inviting malfunction into the picture. They're mostly good, tho I'm always quick to blame it when stuff like this goes wrong.

I've had the X button give out on my favorite Dual Shock too. It was the bright semitransparent island blue one, if that gives anyone any insight as to when I got it or when it was manufactured... if thats's even relevant. Didn't even use this one in a PC adapter. It just gave up after a while.

[Anonymous No.2765423]

>>2765380
The Dreamcast itself doesn't show up, when I use a monitor everything works.

[Anonymous No.2765426]

>>2765342
True

[Anonymous No.2765428]

>>2765342
>Your best bet would be selling to a flipper

WTF is a dolphin gonna do with a NES?? smh

[Anonymous No.2765429]

I bought one of those alien famicom consoles with the shape of a psx for 10 dollars, it works fine but it just looks horrible. Any ideas for a hardware dummie?

[Anonymous No.2765434]

>>2765429

I'm gonna guess this is a PolyStation you're talking about... or at least that's what they call them here... The console where you lift up the CD cover to reveal a cartridge slot. lol

What kind of ideas are you looking for other than using that more realistic looking gun for Duck Hunt?

[Anonymous No.2765439]

>>2765423
My friend has a Retrobit VGA box. He ran into this problem briefly. Seemed like the box was outputting composite (TV-related) sync data along with the other standard VGA data. His TV didn't like that and wouldn't display it, but the monitor I brought over for troubleshooting WOULD display it. Modern flat panel monitors tend to support a wider range of sync rates, whereas TVs with VGA-in don't always. It's finnicky and depends on the make, model, when it was made, blah blah blah.

Some questions for you:

The monitor it works on, is it a CRT or flat panel? Wide screen?

Is the VGA box official Sega, or aftermarket?

Does it have a switch on it? Are you sure the switch is in the right position?

[Anonymous No.2765442]

>>2765329

Does it make sense that the console would power up fine and only have the sound affected by the lack of that power adapter ring? Because it's odd that the video would be so perfectly crisp whereas the audio is just absolute crap.

[Anonymous No.2765447]

>>2765434
I wanted to put all of the electronics into a famicom or NES case, or even just a box. I was thinking about doing it with a 3D printer or something

[Anonymous No.2765449]

>>2765357
>>2691296
OK. Missed this post initially.

Yeah. Switches alone can be cheap depending on the brand and life expectancy. If you just want something functional, you've got lots of options. If you want something quick, snappy, and responsive, check with fighting game entusiasts. Tho you'll probably end up dropping considerably more then, and unless you're a big fight fan, might not even notice or care about the difference.

Consider swapping out the switches from the start buttons, or even the select button if you've got a multi slot MVS.

[Anonymous No.2765479]

>>2765447

but the faux-psx casing is too hilarious to get rid of if you ask me.

[Anonymous No.2765617]

>>2764413
With enough time and money you can fix anything.

Thing is, it's not worth the cost.

[Anonymous No.2765652]

>>2765357
>>2765449
Yeah I went ahead and purchased buttons from groovy game gear because they looked reasonable.

This thing has very clearly been through the arcade, its fairly new to me.(september) and I decided to do the buttons since a few were unresponsive and more importantly it was just grimey as fuck all around. The control panel overlay was pretty fucking disgusting and theres some surface rust on the underside of the control panel so I'm gonna strip it and re paint it, but the weathers been shitty and I havent gone out.

[Anonymous No.2765713]

>>2721374
update: I pulled apart the neo geo CD and found that the flex cable connecting the CD drive to the main board has two lifted pins on the cable itself. Anyone got any ideas on what to do?

[Anonymous No.2765979]

>>2765713
Uh.....

pics?
I'm having a hard time following. I'm a dummy.

[Anonymous No.2766397]

>>2765979
Not him, but you know the contacts on the ends of a flex cable? They came up and are hanging off the cable.

>>2765713
You can try gluing them back down with some sort of heat setting glue and an iron, if the contacts haven't broken off.

If they have broken off, you're stuck with the task of finding a new cable.

[Anonymous No.2766712]

I recently purchased a bunch of new N64 controllers that all have really tight, good condition sticks, that completely blow my old flaccid analog controllers out of the water

Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?

[Anonymous No.2766717]

>>2708825
responding to an old ass post might be a waste of time but not many people realize that it's pretty easy to take out screws with pliers one they're sticking out enough to get a grip on them

[Anonymous No.2766785]

>>2765439
flat panel, wide screen, I actually have a VGA cable not a box, it doesn't have a switch

[Anonymous No.2766845]

>>2766712
Maaaan
The level of teardown necessary to grease up the moving parts in a 64 stick? Screw that, I'd say. If you ask me, it's more worth your while to wait til they need to be replaced and swap out the whole thing. It's quicker and easier.

Is it cheaper though?
Thought I saw N64 replacement sticks going for about $11 USD on the page the Wiki in OP's post points you toward for N64 repair.

For less labor and knowing it will last years, $11 is a fair compromise in my book.

[Anonymous No.2766861]

>>2766785
Hmm.
Take this with a grain of salt, as I'm not personally there troubleshooting your situation...
I would assume from the sound of things that the sync data being output is composite compliant rather than VGA standard, which your monitor is supporting but your TV isn't.

Few more quick questions...

Does your monitor have an "info" or "status" display that has any hertz (hz or khz) data on it? If yes, what does it say when you're displaying Dreamcast on it?

When you're playing Dreamcast on it, is the picture kind of fuzzy or blurry? I assume the definition of individual pixels is still better than using the the composite red-white-yellow connectors, but if it's NOT pixel perfect crispness (or damn near it) that could certainly help the diagnosis.

[Anonymous No.2766879]

>>2759216
PAL isn't inherently worse. It's the games that were developed for NTSC (as in, most of them coming out of Japan) that were later ported to PAL that no one bothered to change or compensate for speed differences, thereby altering gameplay.

Sloppy porting is the problem, and it's common on JP games that get ported to PAL regions. It's not PAL's fault.

[Anonymous No.2767015]

>>2766845
>The level of teardown necessary to grease up the moving parts in a 64 stick? Screw that, I'd say.

One screw.

One single additional screw.

[Anonymous No.2767029]

>>2766712
>Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?

No recommended brand, just avoid anything petroleum-based.

White lithium is always a good bet, and you can find it everywhere.

[Anonymous No.2767030]

>>2767015
You're right. Sorry.
Screws that, I meant. Lolololol.

Nah.
I thought the stick had its own little plastic box inside the controller to pop open. I may be thinking of something else.

[Anonymous No.2767039]

>>2767030
>I thought the stick had its own little plastic box inside the controller to pop open. I may be thinking of something else.
It does. It's one screw more effort to open that up than to replace it entirely. Once it's open you can drop some grease in, close it, and wobble the stick around.

[Anonymous No.2767084]

>>2766397
I tried gluing them back down with super tiny amounts of superglue but it didn't work obviously, since the pins popped back up. I might try that suggestion though, or say screw it and try to find a compatible cable on digikey or something.

[Anonymous No.2767110]

>>2766397
>>2766397

Oh. Right right right. Flex cable.
For some reason I was thinking pins and sockets and individually sheilded wires. Fuck me.

[Anonymous No.2767120]

I have this SNES that won't work with composite cables, however RGB and S-Video are working fine. What the hell?

Haven't tried with coaxial because I don't have that cable.

Could it be some blown capacitor?

[Anonymous No.2767156]

>>2766861
This is what I got.

[Anonymous No.2767157]

>>2767120
Do you have a NES coax, or N64 coax?

Shit, even a Genesis (original model) coax? Any of those will work.

[Anonymous No.2767265]

>>2767156
60 hz. Pretty common for VGA... and NTSC TVs.

You using a PAL-compliant TV? That could be why.

Sorry, I'm still learning all this stuff about signals and sync rates. If you're on the EU side of the pond, incompatibility with PAL may be the issue. Otherwise, it may be a cheap cable, in which case I'd recommend a VGA box instead.

Either way, you may want to check in the CRT thread. This isn't necessarily a CRT problem, but those are the kind of videophiles who could probably help you out way quicker.

Over this way:
>>2758694

[Anonymous No.2767449]

Okay, I want to play PS1 imports on my PS2 without installing a modchip or doing a disc swap while the disc is spinning. I thought Free McBoot would let me do that, but it apparently doesn't. I heard that I'd be able to with a PS1 Gameshark...Is this correct? If not, are there any other options?

[Anonymous No.2767462]

>>2767449
you still need a swap card. One prog in FMCB will stop the disc for safer swapping.

[Anonymous No.2767465]

>>2767462

I need one if I'm using a Gameshark disc?

[Anonymous No.2767474]

>>2765069
Probably the usual Dreamcast resolution quirk.

[Anonymous No.2767808]

>>2767084
update: after carefully reinserting the flex cable back into both ZIF sockets, and cleaning the laser, I can now report that the Neo Geo CD is alive again, working off a spare external IDE power supply.

[Anonymous No.2768768]

>>2767808
>ZIF sockets
>Neo Geo CD
>early 90s

Whoa. Whoa.

Mind blown. My first encounter with ZIF wasn't til around Pentium 4s.

Then again, it wasn't til then that I actually started getting down and dirty with hardware. I may just be oblivious.

[Anonymous No.2768774]

>>2768768
these have been around forever, the NGCD certainly wasn't the first to use them

[Anonymous No.2768780]

>>2768774
Is that a true ZIF tho?

ZIF is Zero Insertion Force. Usually you just lay the component effortlessly in its slot and pull a slide/lever to lock it in place.

That looks a lot like any other flex cable slot where you do indeed have to exert a small amount of force to achieve insertion.

[Anonymous No.2768802]

>>2768780
>exert a small amount of force to achieve insertion


Lolololololololol.
I laughed because I'm a giant 8 year old.

[Anonymous No.2768889]

>>2768780
it is true ZIF

[Anonymous No.2771454]

>>2768889
Huh.

I'm learning things.

[Anonymous No.2771498]

So the first mod I ever did was adding a mod chip to the big old PlayStation. I'm pretty sure that one turned out fairly neat. The kit came with nice wires and very explicit instructions.

The second one was adding s-video, stereo out, a power LED, and the Neo-Geo.com BIOS to a Neo Geo AES.
It all works how it's supposed to, but I'm getting horrible flash backs to cobbling it together with any dirty old wires I had laying around. My soldering skills were probably sub-par at the time too.

I'm very tempted to crack these babies open and share the (potential) horror with you guys. It's been years since I've looked inside them.

[Anonymous No.2771745]

Got gifted these, what do?
Gameboy DMG-01:
- Three screen modules
- Four main modules

None tested before

[Anonymous No.2771752]

Just look at this beauty

[Anonymous No.2771754]

Just look at this beauty...

[Anonymous No.2771859]

>>2771745
>>2771754
>water damage
Eww, that's nasty.
However, I wish you luck at repairing these ones.
>glob top DMG-CPU board
I didn't even knew that such a thing exists, I thought that Tetris was the only GB related thing to use glob tops.
Could you post more pictures of it?

[Anonymous No.2772040]

Since I can't really buy a SMS locally, I've been scouring ebay for cheap ones. I keep seeing ones with cap repairs, do SMS caps have a short lifespan?

And is there a clone EverDrive for SMS for similar reasons?

[Anonymous No.2772076]

>>2771745
The mainboard on the top right looks like it's pretty clean and well taken care of, attach one of the screen modules to it and see if it works. The screenboard on the bottom right looks pretty clean too.

[Anonymous No.2772083]

>>2772040
The only "clone" ED I'm aware of is the one for the SNES, because Kritzz or whatever his name was contracted out to some Chinese company and they decided to make money off it.

But the SMS ED is less than $100, so it doesn't really matter.

[Anonymous No.2772130]

>>2765617
We're talking about fixing dead horizontal lines which isn't easy to fix

[Anonymous No.2772309]

>>2772130
I know

Just saying enough time and money anything can be fixed.

Question is, is it worth it? No.

[Anonymous No.2772794]

>>2771859
I can post more tomorrow, actually...

Already tested all of them, could salvage 2 screens and 2 main boards... the others are beyond help... Still, what components could I use from them? Wanted to make a fake GB printer communicator so maybe I could use the cable link receiver part...

>>2772076
It was one of the ones that worked (main board), it has some trouble with the audio, tho. Maybe I'll try to do a pro-sound mod to skip the speaker

Some of the boards have this (pic related)... what could I do to fix it?...
Also as I got two screens and two main boards I'll have to order by mail some GB housings... chinese ones would do the job, right?

[Anonymous No.2772823]

Watch this it is so awesome! http://youtu.be/03XqTl1DrBk

[Anonymous No.2772829]

http://youtu.be/03XqTl1DrBk Watch this guys!

[Anonymous No.2772883]

>>2771745
Check the one whit the black screen, it probably was previously BL modded.

[Anonymous No.2772926]

>>2772794
Tooth brush and 99% alcohol

You might expose some PCB that way but you can buy a solder mask pin online to draw over the problem areas.

[Anonymous No.2773358]

First time soldering and first idea for a mod.
>Has a box of barely working 3 button controllers for megadrive.
>"wouldn't it be great if these had microswitches instead of capacitive domes"
>buys microswitches and no fucks given or measured replaces all buttons.
>No Dpad clearance
>drill holes through where dpad belongs and sinks microswitches into board.
>fixes clearance issue

CLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACK.

Most satisfying controller i've ever used for sega.

[Anonymous No.2773438]

>>2772883
Nah, the LCD is broken.
>>2772926
Nice, that was what I was doing... but still it doesn't come off fully... might need some more work

[Anonymous No.2773741]

>>2773358
Dude. I've been wanting to do this mod for so long now (read about that eons ago online). Was too lazy. Still kinda am, but now I do have some defective pads I could use.

[Anonymous No.2774441]

>>2773358
Used to have a controller for PC with clickety-clack microswitches in the d-pad.

Best d-pad I've ever used. That auditory feedback is a sweet godsend for precision.

[Anonymous No.2774715]

>>2708825
I've heard placing a rubber band between the screw and screwdriver works pretty well. Just be careful, and make sure you have the right sized bit.

[Anonymous No.2774972]

>>2774715
I've heard this to. I've also heard it makes shiny crystals. Or mustard gas. Or is just some shit some kid on the internet said.

[Anonymous No.2777501]

This might not be the place to ask this but I have a SNES controller that says "SNS-102" on the back. Thing is, it also says its a Super Famicom controller. I was under the impression that the model names started with SHVC

Is this controller from Japan or is it a North American model?

[Anonymous No.2777834]

>>2777501
Don't know much about the model numbers offhand, but the colors of the buttons should be the dead giveaway.

NA SNES controllers had the light and dark purple buttons.

[Anonymous No.2777838]

>>2777501
>>2777834
It shouldn't matter, the connector is proprietary, but yeah.

>SFC = skittles style buttons, red, yellow, blue green.
>Super Nintendo = purple buttons

[Anonymous No.2777845]

>>2777838
As an Amerifat, I'm not sure offhand... Didn't the Euro version have both the skittle buttons and the "Super Nintendo" (as opposed to Super Famicom) name?

[Anonymous No.2777867]

>>2777838
>>2777834
Well, the thing is, it has SNES style buttons (Purple) but the back clearly states its for the Super Famicom.

Not really worried about the connector, more about the history and this controller.

I suspect that this controller might have been paired with a Super Famicom Jr or sold around that time.

[Anonymous No.2778028]

>>2765412
>>2719637

Hey I just came back after giving it a second look. I tested it on my PC (with a different adapter) and looking at the Windows gamepad options (the one that shows with a red light the buttons you're pressing), and turns out the X button works THE FIRST time I press it after connecting it. Then the button "stays pressed" (not the actual button, but the "red light" showed the button as if it was pressed forever).
Tried it on my PS1 and that exactly what it happens. The first time I press it it works, then the input somehow stays pressed (while the actual button comes back to position perfectly, it's in mint condition). If I disconnect the controller and connect it again, I again can press the button one time and it works except that the input stays pressed.

I'm telling you guys this in hope that this behavior helps more knowledgeable people see what could be the problem, and see if it has a fix. Thanks for advance either way!

ps: for the anon mentioning PS4 controller for PC, I want to fix this for my actual PS1 (and to have it as a working part of my collection, mostly), not for further use on PC. Also, since it's has L2 and R2 as regular buttons instead of triggers, it works great on my Game Boy Player with the Mayflash adapter (it's a very specific use, but I actually use this a lot). On the other hand, it's been harder than I thought finding mint condition DualShock1 on sites like eBay, it hurts to have my favourite one in great physical condition except for this flaw. My plan now is, if I can track down the actual piece that needs to be replaced, I'd gladly get an ugly used one and swap pieces.

[Anonymous No.2778136]

>>2765412
Early models had a real PCB. Later revisions had the plastic PCB.

[Anonymous No.2778248]

>>2778136
Truly?
I know the pre-dualshock PlayStation controllers had solid PCBs, but every dualshock I've opened had the plastic crap.

Not doubting what you're saying is true. Just that I haven't seen it personally.

[Anonymous No.2778249]

>>2778248
Yep. I've opened plenty of them.

Usually anything bellow M or N revisions will have them.

Maybe some that are H. I honestly forget where they phased them out

[Anonymous No.2778308]

Is it true that the PSone has better RGB output than other PlayStation models? I'm looking into purchasing a PS1 but it's difficult trying to weigh up the different attributes of each SKU; expansion-slot access, ease of modchip installation, RGB and audio output quality, etc..

Which do you guys think is the overall best PS1 hardware revision?

[Anonymous No.2778314]

>>2778308
On the topic of PS1's, I bough a PS1 at a yard sale and noticed it had a mod chip installed when I went to clean the inside.

What's the best way to test how compatible this chip is?

I remember someone mentioning a game that has a high level of encryption that some older chips can't get past.

[Anonymous No.2778319]

>>2778308
I like PSOnes because they're small and cute. Installing a modchip is kinda tricky though, but not impossible (Just don't glue it on top of the CPU like I did... I had to file the chip down to make it not obstruct the laser sled).

I don't know about the RGB quality because I have yet to replace my shitty chinese PSU that causes interference...

[Anonymous No.2778347]

Bought a RGB cable the guy said it was shielded but it obviously isn't, my question is: Is it possible to shield it my self like this other RGB cable I got?

[Anonymous No.2778349]

>>2778347
The shielded cable.

[Anonymous No.2778458]

>>2777845
Yes, also longer cord too

[Anonymous No.2778627]

>>2778349
>The shielded cable.
>Only one single pin for ground
Do you even know what it means?
Every video and audio wire should have their own shielding for best and interference free quality.
Also this one has the AC coupling capacitors while >>2778347 has not, they won't affect the picture quality but rather serve as protection.

This is a shielded SCART cable, every analogue signal has their own shielding and there's a another shield around all wires to keep the mains hum out.

[Anonymous No.2779049]

>>2778627
Well I thought it was shielded beacuse of the plastic around the wires, that cable has no hearable screen buzz. Another question:

The 1st cable I posted is for the SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz, but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?

[Anonymous No.2779102]

>>2779049
>The 1st cable I posted is for the SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz, but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?

It's horse shit.
Buzzing audio in scart cables is a prime example of interference caused by lack of shielding. It's simple enough to tell that it is interference caused by the video signal simply from the fact that the more luminous the screen is, the higher voltage you have in the video signals, and the more they interfere with the audio - causing you more buzz in white screens and less in black ones.

If the cable is entirely unshielded, then you can even get image rollover on the video, caused by some part of the signal interfering with the RGB signal. I had cheap play-asia cable look and sound worse than composite due to lack of shielding.

If you just have a thick mesh shielding around all the cables, that's enough to fix most of the issues and reduce the audio noise. But to completely eliminate it, you also need at least the audio cables to be covered by a separate mesh shielding, linked to their ground pin - optimally the same for each individual video pin too, but at least have it on the audio pins.

Individually shielded scart cables tend to cost quite a bit more than non-shielded ones however.

[Anonymous No.2779113]

>>2779049
>SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz,
Not sure how much it can be applied to NTSC.
The mains hum in audio is rather normal, it can be reduced to almost nothing if a strong modern switching supply (>1.2A 9-12VDC) is used.
But a classic transformer (original PSU with 9VAC) has it's advantage with being simple and very reliable (unless it's chinese 3rd party garbage), the hum can be reduced greatly by adding additional 4700-6800µF capacitance parallel to the stock 2200µF capacitor (it's the hugest one in the PAL SNES).
>but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?
You mean the 15khz video?
Like it gets loud with a brighter screen?
That one can be avoided with a properly shielded cable, but it's unlikely that you can buy a good one for cheap.
It's cheaper to make a short (10-30cm) adapter with shielded cables (can be either 50 or 75 ohms) with a SCART socket on the end, then just use a good SCART cable to connect it to the TV.
This is what I did. And the interference on both audio and video is very very low.

>>2779102
>Buzzing audio in scart cables is a prime example of interference caused by lack of shielding
Exactly, the wires are running parallel. In that way they are prone to crosstalk, another phenomenon is the appearance of an "crosshatch" pattern which is the chrominance finding it's way into the luminance (Y from S-Video) or RGB signals.

[Anonymous No.2779137]

>>2779102
>>2779113
So trying something like >>2778349 wouldn't help beacuse the cable itself isn't shielded?

[Anonymous No.2780332]

I'm yuropoo who wants to get a JP Saturn, what kind of step-down converter do I need?

[Anonymous No.2780352]

>>2780332
Optimally 240 to 100 V but the easier-to-obtain 240 to 120 V will usually work just fine.

[Anonymous No.2780353]

>>2780332
Also it's worth noting that there are JP-region Saturns with 240V PSUs that were sold in one or the other south east asian country, which if you could get your hands on one would spare you the adapter.

[Anonymous No.2780380]

>>2780353
>>2780352
When I'd take a 220 -240 v Saturn, does 60 hz (frequency) matter?

[Anonymous No.2780383]

>>2780380
generally not (the PSU outputs DC AFAIK).
unless you mean the vertical refresh rate, of course.