Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.2529301]

Mods, repairs, and technical questions go here. What are you working on?

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.

[Anonymous No.2529446]

anyone know of a good aftermarket power adapter for NES?

[Anonymous No.2529450]

>>2529446
Make your own.

[Anonymous No.2530415]

>>2529446
Just find any power adapter rated at 9V and >= 1.8A (or, equivalently, 16.2 W output). The official NES adapter produces an AC signal, but it's perfectly fine to use an adapter which produces a DC signal. For this reason, you can use the Model 1 Sega Genesis power adapter with an NES.

There's some info about the power supply on the wiki:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Nintendo_Entertainment_System#Power_Supply

[Anonymous No.2531130]

>>2530415
>9V and >= 1.8A
>= 850mA

[Anonymous No.2531196]

>>2529301

Here's a stupid question.

I've downloaded a bunch of PS1 games to burn to discs and play on a modded PSOne. Sometimes the downloaded files only contain a .cue file and a .ecm file neither of which can be burned to a disc. Is the file I downloaded bad or am I missing something?

[Anonymous No.2531368]

>>2531196
ecm files are compressed disc images you need to find a decompressor before you can use them

[Anonymous No.2531974]

Found an old PS1 lightgun at the thrift store. Works fine in Time Crisis but I can't aim in Elemental Gearbolt. Any idea what the problem is?

[Anonymous No.2532080]

Best flash memory solution for old PCs? I envision something with front panel access to plug in a formated SD card, like a floppy emulator but for the hard drive, anything like that? Needs to work on everything from PC to ATX

[Anonymous No.2532750]

>>2530415
>The official NES adapter produces an AC signal, but it's perfectly fine to use an adapter which produces a DC signal.

This could actually wear down the bridge rectifier inside the NES over time. It forces the current through one side of the bridge at all times, and the diodes aren't rated for 100% duty cycle.

>>2532080

CompactFlash cards are natively compatible with IDE.

[Anonymous No.2532832]

>>2531974
maybe an incompatibility with that particular lightgun or turn brightness up?

[Anonymous No.2533171]

Bought a PS1, light turn on but nothing shows up on TV, do you guys know what the problem might be?

[Anonymous No.2533214]

>>2533171
turn tv on to right av channel and check av connection?

[Anonymous No.2533483]

>>2533214
I changed multiple AV channels and still nothing , the AV connection is the Red White Yellow cable and plugged into scart with an adapter,TV has 2 scart slots , none work, im thinking of trying on another TV with the triple connectors or somehow get hold of a new cable since that might be the issue, if all else fails , I have a new paperweight

[Anonymous No.2533613]

My Mario rpg keeps freezing at the same place in the first cutscenes I've cleaned the pins vigorously. Any ideas? Maybe the battery?

[Anonymous No.2533651]

I'm trying to fix the eprom on my game boy because it has no picture.

[Anonymous No.2533661]

>>2533613
>Any ideas?
Dry solder joints could cause that.
Reflow the SA-1, ROM and SRAM chips.

[Anonymous No.2533718]

I want to use a 555 timer chip to make one of the c buttons on my n64 controller initiate a response much faster. Meaning I want one button to be a designated short hop button for super smash bros. How do I go about this? Are there resources or schematics around? And no I will not git gud. This is an experiment anyway for science and fun

[Anonymous No.2535945]

>>2533718
Look up one shot circuits.

[Anonymous No.2537658]

I changed the battery of my Zelda Ocarina of Time, but now it won't pass the initial screen, it will get stuck on a black screen after I press start (A black screen with a yellow thingie on the top, left corner)

Anybody knows what happened here?

[Anonymous No.2537674]

I'm looking for a dreamcast light gun but I'm not willing to pay 20 dollars for one and I see some broken ones on ebay for cheap, what could be the problem with them? And can I fix them? Something tells me they just tested them on a modern TV but Idk

[Anonymous No.2537686]

>>2537674
>I see some broken ones on ebay for cheap, what could be the problem with them?
Anything and nothing.

Unless the problem is specifically stated by someone competent, you don't know what you're getting.

[Anonymous No.2537786]

>>2537658
Ok I got passed the screen, don't know how exactly, just keep trying.

However, it is still not saving, jesus christ, what's happening.

[Anonymous No.2537878]

>>2537786
Nevermind, found it, there was a broken trace, I soldered it and now is saving fine, probably the battery wasn't bad to begin with but I left the new one anyways.

[Anonymous No.2538227]

Not really sure what the problem is with my Dreamcast. The eye will move all the way back and forth no problems bur it wont go passed the Sega loading screen with any game, then it makes this sound.

https://youtu.be/0ACx99z8ixg

What do you think?

[Anonymous No.2538347]

>>2538227
Sounds like the gear that moves the laser sled is skipping.

When's the last time you took it apart and gave it a good cleaning and lubing?

[Anonymous No.2538391]

Does anyone know what power supply that a Datel enhanced system selector uses? Bought it at a thrift store for cheap but no power supply.

DC IN 9V is what it says in the back.

[Anonymous No.2538947]

People experienced with CRTs, do you know anything about the RCA 20F420T?

As detailed at >>2538938, I can't get out of the service menu, and the damn thing has no sound.

Also, I can't figure out how to rotate the image on the screen, as it looks like it's about 5 degrees turned clockwise.

[Anonymous No.2538957]

How do I clean ink off soft rubber buttons found on things like LCD toys?

[Anonymous No.2539172]

Will this work with a Genesis Va7?

http://www.theisozone.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=22974

I've seen some variants of this mod with different cap values, and others more complicated that even build a buffer circuit. Which is the definite mod, ffs?

[Anonymous No.2539215]

>>2539172
I'm pretty sure it will work as long as the chip is the same. Be careful, leg 12 is labeled wrong. It should be on the right side.

[Anonymous No.2539219]

How long does it take for a Game Boy battery to die? What's wrong with my Pokemon Gold cart? It worked fine two years ago but now it won't keep saves. It saves but when I turn on the game it either says the file is corrupt, it doesn't have a file, or the time is messed up and when I restart either of the other two things happened.

I replaced the battery maybe 4 or 5 years ago. I thought they lasted longer then that.

[Anonymous No.2539239]

I'm essentially chimp-level retarded but handy with a soldering iron. Is there anything I can do with this thing? I've seen people talking about attaching a cartridge slot to it but the guides and info are on dead websites.

I don't mind if you laugh and call me a retard for barging in on your board but if any of you have messed around with one of these (Radica Genesis generation 1, 6 in 1 games) I'd appreciate any tips in laymans terms.

[Anonymous No.2539242]

>>2539219
>How long does it take for a Game Boy battery to die?
All my NES, SNES, N64 and GB carts batteries are still working and last time I measured them in the within the last 3 years I got voltages ranging from 3.03 to 3.10V. That should last a decade or so.
>What's wrong with my Pokemon Gold cart?
Nothing, just a power hungry MBC3 with the realtime clock circuits running.
Mine died a few years ago, good thing I foresaw this and measured 2.83V which went down to near zero in a half year and made a backup on my PC beforehand.
>I thought they lasted longer then that.
Did you touched the battery with your bare hands?

[Anonymous No.2539280]

>>2539242

No.

So it's just the battery that's dying? This stuff sucks. At least RSE can bw played with dead batteries. GSC just doesn't work period

[Anonymous No.2539770]

>>2539242
>>2539280
He most likely got the battery too hot and killed it's life cycle

[Anonymous No.2540752]

Damn /vr/
Just bought Everdrive for my SNES and only button that is working is B. Any Idea what is wrong?
Controller is pretty much brand new

[Anonymous No.2540859]

From which amperage should I change my snes save batteries?

[Anonymous No.2540913]

>>2539239
You can wire a connector in place of the on board ROM in the radica. Most Genesis carts are just a ROM on board anyway.

A better option might be to replace the ROM with some flash and a small MPU with a USB port and code to program the flash. Then you can load whatever you want from a PC without it taking up any more space. Loaders are easy enough to find if you want to have more than one game loaded at a time.

[Anonymous No.2541197]

Found my old Atari 2600 in my parents shed. It hasn't been used in forever and when I tried to play it I got nothing.
How can I troubleshoot what's wrong with it? I'm not totally sure on how I can even tell if it's getting power

[Anonymous No.2541205]

>>2539770

I didn't play it too much though. Maybe twenty hours. Oh well, I'll just replace the battery eventually if that's the problem.

[Anonymous No.2541220]

>>2541197 here
I will be borrowing a multimeter from a friend later today, but I'm not quite sure how to check the current or anything. I know very little about electronic stuff like this.

[Anonymous No.2541319]

>>2540913
Interesting idea with the USB port. Unfortunately I totally fucked it lifting the ROM off the board, it got too hot and lifted a few other things up too. Oops!
Still a fun afternoon though and nothing important lost.

[Anonymous No.2542054]

If you solder a switch that connects two sides if one of those squiggly gold contacts, will that switch function exactly like a the original button did?

[Anonymous No.2543134]

Hey /vr/
I have a Super famicom that's been modified to only output pal resolutions and to run at 50hz.
It's not region modded, because it only plays SFC/american games.
The games are slower like pal games and the colors are brighter. And it might be unrelated but street figter alpha 2 plays but with garbled graphics and crashes at the third/fourth stage.
It has a rf module soldered to various fuses and capacitors on the mobo, and it's soldered to the first pin of the cartridge connector on the mobo.
Now the question i want to ask is, would removing all the cables and the modified rf module damage the system?

I don't have any pics now but i will post them as soon as i get home.
For the time being here's a pic of street fighter alpha 2

[Anonymous No.2543360]

>>2543134
I would've just assumed that's how it looks on an LCD. Mmm, love the clear crisp pixels.

[Anonymous No.2543439]

>>2543360
Pretentious the post right here

[Anonymous No.2543449]

>>2543360
Epic post bro!
/vr/ sure was a step up from /v/

[Anonymous No.2543496]

>>2543449
Hey man I'm sorry I made a joke about you're decisions in life, I didn't realize that you would take it seriously, you can do what ever you want man, it's your life, who am I to say anything

[Anonymous No.2543504]

>>2543496
I'm sorry your joke sucked

[Anonymous No.2543507]

>>2543504
Just like your TV

[Anonymous No.2543554]

>>2543507
Sick burn! Did you come up with that while playing on your sony trinitron CRT?

[Anonymous No.2543561]

>>2543554
That didn't make any sense, you just mentioned a brand of television, that's like saying "you make that post sitting in your Lumisource Office Chair sitting at your Bush modular desk, color: slate" ut doesn't mean anything.

If you think of anything else get back to me

[Anonymous No.2543565]

>>2543561
Alright buddy how about "guess your mom and my tv have something in common then" good enough?

[Anonymous No.2543579]

>>2543134
>Now the question i want to ask is, would removing all the cables and the modified rf module damage the system?
To answer your question.
I don't know much about PALshit mods but removing a mod and restoring the system back to original should be fine assuming you have the components to replace the modded ones back to original specs. Just go slow and make sure you don't accidentally bridge anything.

[Anonymous No.2543639]

>>2543579
Here's how it looks on the bottom of the mobo.
Will i have to replace the capacitors/fuses? (I don't know the proper term)
Should i solder the wires off or can i just cut the off?

[Anonymous No.2543643]

>>2543639
Forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2543649]

>>2543643
Here's what the wires connect to

[Anonymous No.2543919]

SOMEONE HELP. I have a Dreamcast that won't show any input on my TV. I use composite cables and I have 2 and they both don't work. The game sounds like it is working and loading, but no picture. And yes I have the correct input. I have used burned games in the passed and I think that's why it doesn't work. I am using the only official Dreamcast game I have to test it (the Dreamcast browser) and still nothing. Can someone please help me?

Pic related is just a random picture of a Dreamcast, not my own.

[Anonymous No.2543923]

>>2540752
It's probably your controller honestly. Make sure the control port isn't dirt, and if you want to go further then take apart your SNES and see if the port inside is dirty. Other than that, it shouldn't be the Everdrive.

[Anonymous No.2544827]

I've got a Top Loader nes (not av) and it has the jailbars, I bought it with the intention of doing an NESRGB mod, but I just want to know. Doing that mod will eliminate the bars issue?

[Anonymous No.2544924]

I'm not sure if this isn't the right place to ask but, i'm planning on importing one these. It's the first time I import anything and I need help on the whole 100AC thing.

I live in the Caribbean (PR, to be exact) and our Voltage and hertz are the same as the US. My doubts are:

Will the volt difference damage the console?
How can I lower my output to 100?

Sorry if this isn't the right place.

[Anonymous No.2545918]

>>2535945
Thats it? That doesnt help me much

[Anonymous No.2545950]

Anyone know where I can get just the little plastic IR port cover for a GBC? It's bugging the hell out of me that I misplaced it and buying a new housing just for one bit seems excessive.

[Anonymous No.2546305]

>>2545918
The fuck are you on about, it's exactly what you're looking for.

[Anonymous No.2546369]

Would it be difficult to rework this into a more tradition control layout?

I'm thinking of gutting it, to make an emulation arcade machine. I would like to do the two players with a track ball in the center.

[Anonymous No.2546372]

>>2545918
If you can't manage to do a google search you certainly aren't going to manage to wire up a simple circuit. Try plan B. Git gud.

[Anonymous No.2546776]

>>2541205
I meant when installing it. Heat will kill a coin cell battery.

[Anonymous No.2547445]

I got this NES on a garage sale, but it doesn't seem to work, it turns on immediately even when there is no cartridge inserted, which makes me think they disabled the region lock chip, but the problem is that every time I turn it on, I just get a black screen (not even a colored one) an a noisy buzzing sound on the TV.

I also can't get any games to run.

What could cause this? PPU? Bad capacitors?

The buzzing sound is what makes me wonder, otherwise I would think is just a dirty 72 pin connector.

[Anonymous No.2547460]

>>2547445
>otherwise I would think is just a dirty 72 pin connector.
Scrub the fucker anyway, and check for obvious damage while it's open.

They probably read online that disabling the lockout chip "solved" all issues with games running.
Shit, personally, I'd try to re-enable the lockout chip. I'd rather have it not start up than lose progress when it freezes mid-game, or even lose my save data when the bad contact catches up.

[Anonymous No.2547465]

>>2546369
Wouldn't be that hard at all. You may consider keeping the trackball for trackball games however. If you didn't I'd reccomend cutting a new piece of wood for a control panel since that button layout doesn't look like it would be easily fixable. Cabinet looks great though. I'd reccomend an arcade VGA card and an emulator PC, you'd be up and running in no time.

[Anonymous No.2547619]

>>2547460
I cleaned it and re-enabled the lockout chip, but it is still not working, I can hear a constant buzzing sound even when the nes is blinking (I mean, even when the light is off), and the games aren't running (I checked the 72 pin connector on another nes and is working fine there).

I think I'll recap the RF modulator. But before that, could it be something else?

[Anonymous No.2547629]

>>2547619
Oh oh, the games are running it seems, because the light stopped blinking, but still no image and buzzing sound.

[Anonymous No.2547632]

>>2544924
Most power supplies have a 10-20% tolerance to voltage, so a 100V unit will work right at 110V. Most Japanese consoles I saw were rated 85-135VAC, for example, with the console itself stating 100V input.

[Anonymous No.2547841]

Guys I'm having a problem with garou densetsu 3 (fatal fury) on Saturn. Running it on rgb had no problems with any other saturn game but once I get through the menus and loading screens to the actual fight the picture gets super out of sync and wobbly. I've never had this before. What could caused it? Last time it happened it beeped Also before it happened the game played like normal.

[Anonymous No.2547867]

>>2546305
>>2546372
>how dare you come on a thread about modding and ask for details, what are you going on about? You have the audacity to question my 4 word reply?

Yeah thanks anyways

[Anonymous No.2547885]

>>2547629
>>2547619
>>2547445

I'm this guy, so I recapped the NES, cleaned the 72 pin connector and re-enabled the lockout chip, it seems like it is properly reading the games because the led stops blinking as it does when there's no game inserted, but the black screen and the buzzing sound are still present.

I have no clue what else could be causing this.

[Anonymous No.2547963]

>>2529301
Just got a "Famicom Titler" from japan. It's pretty dusty and missiing all its cords. Do any of you recognize what kind of power adapter this takes and where to get it?

[Anonymous No.2547979]

>>2547963
Might not be much help, but I think my Sony HitBit MSX2 has a similar plug, so maybe that'll give you a place to start (I do not recall the specifications for said adapter, however)?

[Anonymous No.2548116]

>>2532750
>This could actually wear down the bridge rectifier inside the NES over time. It forces the current through one side of the bridge at all times, and the diodes aren't rated for 100% duty cycle.

>mfw this whole time I've been fucking up my NES without knowing it

Can you remove the rectifier, though?

[Anonymous No.2548172]

>>2547979
thanks, that might help

[Anonymous No.2548179]

This is my modded game boy I bought on ebay last Christmas

[Anonymous No.2548203]

>>2548179
>beats

It's painfully obvious that you know nothing about audio quality and just wanted to look cool.

[Anonymous No.2548205]

>>2538391
I'll probably try with a 9V DC power supply.

[Anonymous No.2548642]

>>2547867
We gave you exactly the information you wanted, fuck off you lazy cockhole.

[Anonymous No.2548648]

>>2547885
Have you tried the AV out?

If you have a display that can handle RGB, you can try that mod, as well.

[Anonymous No.2548654]

>>2547632
So it should be okay with my 120V output?

[Anonymous No.2548672]

>>2548642
You gave me fuck all. Told me to google. WOW! Next time for future reference, if you dont know the answer, then dont fucking reply. Simple isnt it?

[Anonymous No.2548673]

/vr/ is combative tonight. Not just this thread. Pretty sure lots of us are drunk because Saturday :) I'm digging it.

[Anonymous No.2548674]

>>2548672
>Next time for future reference, if you dont know the answer
Except we gave you exactly what you fucking needed you ungrateful retard.

Next time you want to be a retard, do it elsewhere.

[Anonymous No.2550097]

Are the Chinese PS1 laser and spinner hub assemblies on eBay actually worth a shit? I'm looking for a genuine Sony one but they seem to be pretty tough to find these days.

[Anonymous No.2550164]

>>2550097
I just buy spare PS consoles when I see them at thrift stores, if the prices is ~$10 or so. The laser unit is easy enough to replace.

[Anonymous No.2550558]

>>2550097
are chinese counterfeit goods ever good?

[Anonymous No.2552220]

A lot of the original documentation has 404'd, so I'm having trouble finding the answer to this question:

What does this mysterious device DO? Will it allow me to play NTSC PS1 games on my PAL PS2?

[Anonymous No.2552227]

>>2548179
you paid someone to do such a horrible hack job on that dip switch cut?

holy shit.

[Anonymous No.2552294]

I live in europe and I'll probably gonna buy an NTSC US N64 and I have some questions.
Do I need a converter for the electricity?
Is it possible to mod the N64 so it can play JP N64 games like they'd do on an actual JP N64 console? For speedrunning purposes. Important is that they run exactly like they would do on an JP N64.
Can I use my controllers, Expansion Pak and other accessories on the NTSC N64?

[Anonymous No.2552321]

>>2552294
>Do I need a converter for the electricity?
Use an european power supply instead.
>Is it possible to mod the N64 so it can play JP N64 games like they'd do on an actual JP N64 console?
There are tabs that blocks JP and EU carts. You could cut them off or you can get some passive (1:1 passthrough) adapter.
>Can I use my controllers, Expansion Pak and other accessories on the NTSC N64?
Yes, everything should work except for the video cable (NTSC and PAL Nintendo video cables are different, NTSC does not have any components in general but PAL mostly has 75ohms to ground and 220µF caps for AC coupling).

[Anonymous No.2552386]

>>2552321
Thanks alot anon!

[Anonymous No.2552584]

>>2552220
>A lot of the original documentation has 404'd, so I'm having trouble finding the answer to this question:
Your Google-fu is weak son, I found the answer super quick.
>What does this mysterious device DO?
It allows to you move save files to and from your PC via USB and some software.
>Will it allow me to play NTSC PS1 games on my PAL PS2?
Nope.

[Anonymous No.2552592]

>>2552584
I've seen some references to it being able to bypass the PS2 region lock.

[Anonymous No.2552598]

>>2548648
Yup, I tried with the AV cables and the Coax one, same results on both, except that on Coax I just get a bunch of interference, no black screen...but the buzz is still there.

[Anonymous No.2552603]

>>2552592
Even if it did, the video is incorrect. NTSC games would have to be patched to be playable on PAL systems, and vice versa.

[Anonymous No.2554464]

Hi there, first time poster. I checked the wiki but no avail, and have spent several hours searching on google/startpage and haven't been able to solve my problem.

I received an old-ish Magnavox HDTV in a Craigslist trade a while back. The TV is from around 2006, I think.

The HDMI connection on it works fine. Unfortunately, all of the composite connections on it display in black and white, as does the RF connection whenever I try to use my NES on it. Does anyone know what the issue may be? I've factory reset the TV's AV settings and that did not help either.


I know playing older games on a large HDTV is heinous on this board, but I do not have room in my apartment for a second TV and I want to keep this HDTV since it is sizable and works very well with all of my HDMI devices. It also has FOUR composite inputs on it and an RF input, so if I get the color working I can have every single one of my systems hooked up without switching around wires, something that would be very nice.

Any ideas what the issue might be?

[Composite and RF only play in (...) No.2554494]

I have a Magnavox HDTV. It is the only TV I have and do not have room to get a CRT to play my retro games properly. For whatever reason, any device I have hooked up to the TV as composite or RF only plays in black and white, while the HDMI plays just fine. I do not have the cables to try component input.

I've factory reset the AV settings to no avail, checked the wiki to no avail, and have google'd for hours to mostly no avail (found a few solutions that worked for others, none worked for me). I have never worked inside a TV/with circuitry before. Am I going to have to do this? Is this an easy fix or should I ditch the TV and find another good HDTV (I'm not getting a CRT, I still do tons of shit in HD).

I should also mention that all of my consoles/cords worked fine on my buddy's HDTV I tested on.

[Anonymous No.2554896]

Do bad capacitors affect the quality of sound in a genesis? I have this Genesis Va3 here and i read that is supposed to be one of the best revisions on the sound department but i find it worse than my Mega Drive Model 1 Va5, the sound seems more low and lacks bass.

[Anonymous No.2554962]

>>2531130
So I can use this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B886CWS/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1437511777&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=9+volt+transformer

[Anonymous No.2555050]

Don't know if this is the right place but I'm looking for an av splitter that isn't shit but is somewhat cheap.

I need 3 inputs to 1 output

[Anonymous No.2555083]

Ah, the joys of replacing game boy batteries.

Why they gotta use 1616's half the time? I have to cut the pins and it's all awkward and shit, man...

[Anonymous No.2555415]

>>2555050
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQF99GS/ref=twister_B00M0X1VPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Anonymous No.2555635]

>>2555415
>http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQF99GS/ref=twister_B00M0X1VPS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks, appreciate it.

[Anonymous No.2558057]

My sega game gear screen looks like this

I already changed all caps except for one with a 68uf value, couldn't find a replacement for it. The picture do looks better (before this you couldn't even tell what you were looking at)

Could it be that this capacitor only is causing this issue? or could this be caused by something else?

[Anonymous No.2558059]

>>2558057
moar pics

[Anonymous No.2558076]

>>2558059
damn is hard to take pics of this thing

[Anonymous No.2558131]

>>2558057
just replace with the a higher uf value

[Anonymous No.2558753]

>>2558057
This:
>>2558131
You can go higher in the f value and it will function the same.
Never go lower, and never use one with different voltage.

[Anonymous No.2558773]

>>2558753
you're backasswards bro.

you can always go HIGHER on VOLTAGE, never lower. you can replace a 16v cap with a 50v, etc. the only limitation is physical size. you should always try to keep around the same farad value, +/- 5% or so

also >>2558057, you can add caps in parallel to get to values you need, if you have smaller ones that add up to 68uf.

[Anonymous No.2558783]

>>2558773
>you're backasswards bro.
I like to think of it as corredctness challenged.

I'm having one of those days where literally everything I think up is wrong, apparently.

[Anonymous No.2558861]

>>2558783
>corredctness challenged
i like that.

i'm glad i didn't call you a faggot.

[Anonymous No.2559382]

>>2558773
>try to keep around the same farad value, +/- 5% or so

That means I can safely replace that 68uf - 6.3v with two 33uf - 16v?

[Anonymous No.2561452]

>>2559382
that'll be fine, in parallel.

[Anonymous No.2561473]

>>2545950

You're unlikely to find just that piece for something like that. Just find a non-functional device on the cheap and strip the part you need.

[Anonymous No.2561483]

What screwdriver do I need to get into a DMG gameboy?

Is there any problem with buying the first one I see on eBay once I know what it is?

[Anonymous No.2561484]

>>2561483
Triwing iirc

[Anonymous No.2561987]

Hi guys, I'm the Game Gear guy, so I soldered two 33uf capacitors in parallel with the same results, however I noticed that the - pad of C45 is not stick on the board, so its not actually connected.

Does anybody knows where the trace for this pad goes? I can't see any traces going where the negative leg is supposed to be connected, or if there's another place where I can connect the negative leg of C45

[Anonymous No.2561997]

>>2561483
>>2561484
you need a 3.8mm gamebit

[Anonymous No.2562009]

give me a pic and i'll show you. i can't find any high res pics online and my gg that i have apart is a va6

[Anonymous No.2562015]

>>2561483
>>2561997
oh, my bad, i thought i read DMG gameboy GAME.

yes, triwing to open the dmg gameboy itself, then standard phillips inside

[Anonymous No.2562230]

So, I was trying to replace the battery of an old game with the "duct tape method" but end up ripping one of the tabs of, so now I'm trying to solder it. The problem is: I lost the tab and I want to know what is a good replacement for it.
Buying a battery with tabs is out of question.

[Anonymous No.2562416]

>>2562230
>Buying a battery with tabs is out of question.
Then buy a battery holder. Trying to solder onto the battery is like microwaving your phone and wondering why it won't turn on.

[Anonymous No.2562650]

>>2548116

You could bypass it, but then you need to remember never to plug in an adapter that outputs AC.

[Anonymous No.2562667]

>>2562230
>Buying a battery with tabs is out of question.

You're shit out of luck, then. If you solder directly to a lithium battery you will ruin it. The entire reason these batteries are tabbed is so you don't apply too much heat to it when soldering.

The tabs themselves are attached to the battery using a spot welder, which doesn't overheat it. And if you can't buy tabbed cells, you sure as hell aren't getting a spot welder.

[Anonymous No.2562849]

Yo, I have this Super Advantage controller that likes to press start by itself, I'm blaming the slow button. I already opened it and checked for broken traces or bad connections but I couldn't find anything weird.

I was thinking, is there any way to completely disable this slow feature?

[Anonymous No.2563601]

>>2562849
Did you clean the rubber contacts?

[Anonymous No.2563624]

>>2562416
>>2562667
It's totally out of question, it's just that I live in the middle of nowhere and ordering anything in here is expensive as fuck or would take too much time to get in here.
Maybe I could duck tape something on the battery and then solder it in the cartridge?

[Anonymous No.2563629]

>>2563624
>It's not totally out of question
fix'd

[Anonymous No.2563867]

>>2563629
Alls we gots here is these them here swamps is duck tape and soldering thangs We dun use em fur fixen the stills an we dun use them stills for powern tham soldering thangs. Mu lower jaw and most u muh teeth are made uh duck tape and soldering thangs and muh pappy tells me they was both intermentul in muh conception and birthen. Ize cants not rekons how you city sliker folk thanks yall can sumpin widout um.

[Anonymous No.2563868]

My Dreamcast stops reading discs randomly while playing, how do I fix it?

[Anonymous No.2563912]

>>2563601
Yes.

[Anonymous No.2563994]

>>2563624
>Maybe I could duck tape something on the battery and then solder it in the cartridge?
The problem with just taping something on, is that the higher resistance on the connection will drain the battery faster.

It'll work if you can't get a tabbed battery, but you'll have to replace it a lot sooner, and the battery can come loose if you drop or bump the cart hard.

[Anonymous No.2564000]

>>2562849
Check the cord, make sure none of the wires are shorted.

[Anonymous No.2564180]

>>2563994
I had no idea this had become a /vr/ maymay.

[Anonymous No.2564185]

>>2564180
>facts are memes LOL!!!

Go staple your dick to your leg.

[Anonymous No.2564242]

>>2563994
>the higher resistance on the connection will drain the battery faster

[Anonymous No.2564243]

>>2563867
ebic

>>2563994
Alright, it will have to do for now.

[Anonymous No.2564254]

Anyone have a V3 mod in a Model 1 A Saturn they can open up and take a picture for me?

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2564259]

>>2564242
>I don't know about resistance, so I'm going to spout memes and pretend I'm right

[Anonymous No.2564278]

>>2564242
That literally makes no sense
I'm with this guy
>>2564259

[Anonymous No.2564340]

>>2564259
>>2564278
Look closely for the part that says I=V/R. More resistance wouldn't drain the battery any faster, quite the opposite in fact.

That isn't to say ducttape would be a good choice, however.

[Anonymous No.2564357]

>>2564254
>Anyone have a V3 mod in a Model 1 A Saturn they can open up and take a picture for me?Thanks.

A what exactly?

[Anonymous No.2564360]

>>2564357
Universal V3 mod in a Model 1(A) saturn, I'm ordering one soon and I don't understand the 20 pin ribbons

[Anonymous No.2564376]

>>2564360
Oh, so a 20pin. Didn't knew what the hell was that 1(A).

I don't think I have pics out for that, but the chip clearly marks which ribbon goes where. So take the ribbon that connects INTO the Saturn mainboard, and connect it into the chips TO CD connector. Then take the extra ribbon that comes with the chip, and connect it to the chips TO MB (motherboard) connector, and then back into the Saturn.

Pay attention to which side of the connectors have the actual pins on them, and which side of the ribbon actually has the connectors.

[Anonymous No.2564380]

>>2564278
Oh I meant what you meant
>>2564340
Higher resis doesn't drain the battery faster, I guess I just got caught in the confusion

[Anonymous No.2564385]

I don't know which ribbon is which inside the saturn which is the problem.

[Anonymous No.2564390]

>>2564385
was meant for >>2564376


And the Model 1 Apparently had two different types of p-supplies, A the easy one and B the one where you flip the p-supply over and solder. That's atleast what it looks like here

[Anonymous No.2564397]

>>2547885
>>2547619
Bad power cap. Replace the big capacitor located near the AC input

[Anonymous No.2564407]

>>2564376
A is pin to motherboard right?
B is pin to CD right?
and C is obviously modchip.

Just want to double check before I fuck shit up.

[Anonymous No.2564492]

>>2564407
Does it connect to the CD drive?
Does it connect to the Motherboard?

[Anonymous No.2564515]

>>2564492
Idunno, It looks like it but I could be wrong.

[Anonymous No.2565346]

Looking to replace the battery in my Sega CD model 1.

I was going to use 2 AA rechargeable batteries but all I can find on the market is 1.2 - 1.25v ones. No 1.5v.

Question is, would a Sega CD keep its memory with only 2.4ish volts?

I was thinking of getting 3-4 1.2v rechargeable batteries and then dropping the voltage down to 3v with a resistor. Would this work?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2565434]

Finally getting around to messing around with my Saturn. Powers on, disc spins up, but it sees everything as a music CD and will play them as such.

What would be the best course of action to take? I don't currently have any grease or canned air to lube/clean up the assembly, but that is something I've considered. I'm somewhat afraid to go adjusting the laser's pot, as I don't want to inadvertently kill the thing.

[Anonymous No.2565574]

>>2565434
Use a known good disc from the correct region?

[Anonymous No.2565595]

Does anyone here have experience with repros? Specifically Game Boy repros? Looking to make a couple for myself and am having trouble finding information on ROM chips to use.

>>2565434
I wouldn't go messing with the pot off the bat, asking to burn the laser out. I assume you know this already, but you don't have a modchip or anything right? Because that'd be the first thing to test is taking the modchip out.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2566019]

>>2565574
The Saturn hasn't been used in over a decade. I'm copy of Daytona that looks to be in very good condition, so I don't believe the disc is the problem.

>>2565595
While I do plan on doing some mod work to it if/when I get it working, I don't believe there's a modchip installed. I have yet to open it up to try and clean up around the lens assembly, so hypothetically there could be one hiding in there, just unlikely.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2567316]

>>2565434
>>2565574
>>2565595
>>2566019
Opened it, cleaned around the laser assembly a bit, blasted some canned air around to see if it could possibly clear something out to get it working; Nothing.

Decided to press my luck and adjust the potentiometer very slightly and and it seems as though that fixed it. Haven't got it put back together, but I played a few races and have been letting it cycle through the intro for the past half hour or so and everything seems to be working perfectly.
Well, aside from the terrible video output of this RF switch, but that can't be helped at the moment.

[Anonymous No.2567438]

>>2567316
At least you didn't burn it out like I did with one of my dreamcasts. At least that dreamcast was free...

[Anonymous No.2567478]

>>2548654
Yes, you should be okay, you might have to replace the AC adapter after 2 decades or so but yes.

[Anonymous No.2568595]

>>2529301
Just cleaned my genesis out cause it was getting pretty hot while I was playing.

Fucking hair, how do people manage to get so much fucking hair in a console, I thought it was a fucking barbershop

[Anonymous No.2568839]

>>2568595
At least it wasn't filled with dead bugs.

[Anonymous No.2568849]

>>2568839
I would of prefered foam peanuts like my fucking saturn.


I opened my saturn to take pics to see what model it was, fucking foam peanuts stuffed under the power supply.

[Anonymous No.2568864]

>>2568849
Maybe it wobbled and they didn't like that?

I opened up a 3DO once and found a 20 year old chocolate bar.

[Anonymous No.2568897]

>>2568864
Didn't wobble, I looked around to see if there was a reason for it, nope. nothing was out of place or wobbling. And jesus that's disgusting, was the chocolate melted?

[Anonymous No.2568912]

>>2568897
>was the chocolate melted?
It was still wrapped.

I had to just sit down for a bit and comprehend it.

[Anonymous No.2570146]

I'm interested in improving my soldering skills, particularly in repairing game hardware. Is there a good, cheap electronic device that would be a good place for me to cut my chops?

[Anonymous No.2570151]

>>2568912
You're saying somebody opened up a 3DO, put a brand-new chocolate bar inside, and then packed it up again?

This feels like something I should do, just buy up used consoles, put chocolate bars inside, and then sell them.

[Anonymous No.2570164]

>>2570151
haha what the fuck
Charge them for the chocolate bar too.

And make sure it's console no one wants like the CDI, the 3DO, the Jaguar

[Anonymous No.2570473]

>>2565346
As I recall normal batteries are 1.5v but drop the voltage as they are used up. Rechargables of the same class are 1.2v, but they don't drop voltage as they are used up. This is why older stuff like mp3 players that worked on batteries could not display the correct remaining charge if you used rechargables.

tl;dr, rechargeables will work fine.

Also you might want to put in a supercapacitor instead, they will charge themselves up while you just run the console. Some guy mentioned that he did that mod and the Sega CD still had saves intact 3-4 months later, which isn't that far off from modern rechargeable batteries.

[Anonymous No.2570483]

>>2570473
Oh and to clarify, that was 3-4 months with the machine being unplugged.

[Anonymous No.2570509]

>>2570483
>>2570473
Well alright.

I figured I'd give it a shot. Already have the battery box just want to back up my thinking.

The guy I watched might have replaced the battery with 2 regualr AA batteries. I was wondering if there's a way to do that.

Also, was thinking of getting a 3-4 cell pack of rechargeables, then reducing the voltage with a resistor from something like 4.5V to 3v.

[Anonymous No.2570534]

>>2570509
>>2570483
Also, have any information on that super cap mod?

[Anonymous No.2570581]

So I made a thread about trying to mod my Game Boy Pocket for the first time the other day.

Turns out I fucked up the ribbon somehow and now there's no picture. Whoops.

For my second try, should I get a Game Boy DMG or a Game Boy Color? I like the DMG because better mod potential, better battery life, and better sound if/when I decide to pick up LSDJ, but I like the Color because it has color (obviously), it's smaller and it has access to the GBC library as well so I can cover all my Game Boy related bases if I pick up that and a Micro.

Someone near me is selling a DMG plus SMW2 for 25 bucks which I think is a pretty good deal, should I jump on it?

[Anonymous No.2570593]

Not very retro but how does one format an orgional Xbox hard drive without opening the system?

[Anonymous No.2570924]

Wiki is down.

[Anonymous No.2570978]

>500 Internal Server error

Has also brought down the emulation wiki

[Anonymous No.2571270]

>>2570978
gametechwiki is up now, emulation wiki still down

[Anonymous No.2571340]

Hmm, question.

Anyone have any experience writing FDS games? I found a new box of floppy disks and I was wondering what is needed to do it. I read that there's utilities that will dump to another floppy but I can't seem to find any information on those

[Anonymous No.2571472]

>>2571340
Yes. The media hasn't been made for ages so it's either not new or is actually a floppy disk as opposed to a disk card.

[Anonymous No.2571754]

I have finally gotten hold of a Arcade Pro Card for the PC Engine but I have problems with the cd games. Audio cd's work. With (for example) Art of Fighting, I can't play story mode because it will stop loading at some point and then the sceen will freeze. Sometimes in VS mode. It freezes after certain characters have won a fight (it's the same characters everytime), Also it occured a few times that levels were loaded and when the match was about to begin, that only the music was there and a blue screen.

Besides that I have burned Rondo of Blood to a CD-R and tried it. It works but loading takes long, for about 20 to 50 seconds. Though I haven't gotten further than the FMV of the Prologue.

This is my setup.

[Anonymous No.2573440]

>>2571472
Well, I was looking at maybe writing the games to the disk if I order one and it isn't the orgional game on it.

[Anonymous No.2573454]

>>2571754
Sounds like your laser/drive motor is going bad, purchase a replacement from ebay.

Rondo doesn't need the ACP, so I suspect it is the drive. You could try adjusting the pots but PCE CD drives are notorious for failing, so just replace the drive motor assembly.

[Anonymous No.2573791]

I have a problem where at what is seemingly a random amount of time my saturn spazzes out while in a game and the sync is all crapped up (though in a different way to when the sync in the RGBS is not recieved by the TV). It makes everything unplayable. Below are some things I have noticed and I have drawn a diagram of my setup.

- When the Saturn is reset the issue continues but when powered down and back on again it stops for as long as it takes to start again.

- it's not game dependent, it starts within 10 mins a game being on usually.

- weirdly the light on my megadrive is on while my saturn is on, i'm guessing this is something to do with my input switcher?

- when the issue occurs sometimes my dreamcast starts beeping like the switch on sound but over and over (again maybe switcher)

-I have switched plug points for my saturn's power cord but the problem continues

- My saturn is a pal round button model with a 50/60 hz switch and a V3 Universal modchip installed

Hoping someone can give me somewhere to start looking

[Anonymous No.2573801]

>>2573791
From the top of my head it sounds like a power issue. I know that living residences are split and how much power they can handle is really up in the air. I'd try just the Saturn, plugged into a socket across your house/apartment.

Chances are you're putting too much stress on one side.

[Anonymous No.2573878]

>>2573791
>>2573801
So I took the Switcher out of the equation and plugged the saturn straight into the monitor and the picture looks like crap (must be some kind of signal stabilisation in the switcher) with semi-regular cutouts in the sync but it hasn't gone completely like before. Pic is the picture now notice the smearing and the wobbly picture,

[Anonymous No.2573879]

>>2573878
this is the picture when the saturn flips out mentioned in >>2573791 different game than above.

[Anonymous No.2573882]

>>2573879
sorry forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2573884]

>>2573878
>>2573882

Maybe the cables you got are shot.

Either that or the TV.

[Anonymous No.2573886]

>>2573791
Also noticed if the sound extracting passthrough scart adapter is not part of the chain whites are black (which means it's not grounded right?)

[Anonymous No.2573970]

>>2573454
Weird I bought from some French site which stated that it was refurbished.

Besides that I actually came further with RoB but only until the cut-off part with the boss then it took a while to load and throw me back to the PC Engine Card screen.

[Anonymous No.2574570]

Modded my saturn, my legit copy of panzer worked, but the burned copy of radiant silvergun is "a wrong disc format"

[Anonymous No.2574575]

>>2531196
Use ImgBurn to burn the .cue file. Make sure the other file is in the same folder

[Anonymous No.2574581]

>>2531196
CUE is burned ecm needs to be uncompressed to a bin

[Anonymous No.2574610]

>>2574570
I think I got a broken AR, if possible, if not that means I fucked my cartridge port.

[Anonymous No.2574660]

>>2574610
Yeah AR or Cartridge port is kill, region patched Radiant SG and it worked.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2574881]

>>2573791
>- weirdly the light on my megadrive is on while my saturn is on, i'm guessing this is something to do with my input switcher?
The various inputs on your switch aren't properly isolated, so the Genesis is getting voltage sent back up it's SCART cable, causing it to attempt to power on. That's not good and definitely something you should get to the bottom of.

[Anonymous No.2575470]

>>2574881
thanks, probably the same thing that was making my DC beep as well?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2575901]

>>2575470
The beep itself is from a dead VMU battery(I believe), but if the Dreamcast is connected via SCART and it happens when another system is turned on, yes.

[Anonymous No.2576743]

Does anyone have a guide for AV modding a famicom w/pictures? I don't know how to read circuit diagrams. Also which method is best?

[Anonymous No.2576747]

>>2576743
Apparently this way is best but I barely understand what it means. Like I know the symbols but I need more info on where it actually goes.

[Anonymous No.2576867]

>>2576747
That's the composite video amplifying circuit from the AV Famicom. I used that exact same circuit for AV modding my NES Toploader. I would expect that it would also work fine with normal Famicoms.

[Anonymous No.2576929]

Is it possible to replace the battery/save memory in a SNES cart with non volitile memory, negating the need for a battery at all? Anyone here with experience able to share tips, if so?

[Anonymous No.2577064]

When I was young I blatantly disregarded the "Never touch the lens" warning on my Model 1 US Sega Saturn. Now it won't read discs. Should I try adjusting the orange potentiometer on the laser or is it too far gone and I have to replace it? If I have to replace it, then should I go for this?:

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OPTICAL-LASER-LENS-PICKUP-for-SEGA-SATURN-MK-80000-/361218299200?nav=SEARCH

I'm pretty sure MK-80000 is the right model number for me.

[Anonymous No.2577135]

>>2542054
Those gold contacts on a PCB are essentially just a primitive switch themselves. The rubber membrane thing just connects the two sides together temporarily. Yes it would in theory work the same but you would probably want a momentary switch(remains on/off for as long as you're hold it) vs a slider switch.

[Anonymous No.2577139]

>>2577064
If the lens came off or got loose you might have to readjust the laser which will be a complete pain in the ass honestly.

If the lens is still there try polishing the lens carefully with a qtip with some rubbing alcohol. Might just be oil from your hands.

[Anonymous No.2577150]

>>2554962
for NES that would be fine yes

[Anonymous No.2577159]

>>2577139
The lens itself is still on, and I don't think it's loose. I'll turn it on again today and maybe clean it again.

>>2577150
Is the connector the right size, though? The Jameco adapter has the follwing dimensions for the 9VAC output plug:

>Output Connector ID x OD : 2.5mm x 5.5mm

[Anonymous No.2577183]

>>2577159
looks like the original NES adapter has a 2.5mm jack as well so it should work

[Anonymous No.2577932]

I got this virtual boy that seems to be working fine except for several things.

- One led display is broken
- It is missing the black sponge thingie that covers your face (what's the name of this thing anyways?)
- The right screen picture looks kinda messy
- There's no sound
- I can barely hear any sound while using headphones

I know I can find replacements for the first two issues, but what about the messy picture on the left screen and the audio issues? Can they get fixed?

[Anonymous No.2577943]

>>2574881
>>2575901
Thanks anon, i've since rearranged my whole setup and haven't had this problem again yet. Still have to use the switcher or my RGBS signal looks like ass (>>2573878)
.

[Anonymous No.2579290]

>>2577932
So, I opened it up and found the ribbon cable for the right screen completely fucked up, so I'll try to do pic related.

That and recap the entire thing. Let's see what happens hohoho

[Anonymous No.2579362]

>>2577159
Yeah, it's not working. I hear the drive soon for a bit, then 3 clicks, each a second apart, then the screen says "Drive empty." I might try adjusting the orange potentiometer, but I'm not sure which direction I should turn it.

[Anonymous No.2579383]

>>2548642
Just came back to say I figured it out, and no thanks to you. Yeah so fuck you

[Anonymous No.2579573]

Any tips on restoring the contacts on nes cartridges?

[Anonymous No.2579581]

>>2579573
Scrub them, scrub.

Toothbrush and alcohol.

[Anonymous No.2579628]

Does anyone here know of compatibility of a Famicom with a PC or TV monitor that's relatively inexpensive?

I was thinking about a USB TV tuner however there's not really any resources I've been able to find in terms of channel availability (Since the FC runs on US channel 95) or just latency in general.

[Anonymous No.2579802]

Anyone have experience making their own nintendo av out to scart cables? I'm confident enough in my ability to do the cabling properly, Im just unsure about the connector. I was thinking of buying of the cables in the pic and cannibalizing the connector. Anyone have any better ideas? Where do those ebay sellers with the expensive cables get their connectors?

[Anonymous No.2579808]

>>2579628
Just use a cheap crt, japan uses ntsc, so if youre in a country that does also youre all set. A usb tuner will have far too much latency, I wouldnt reccomend.

[Anonymous No.2580060]

>>2579808
Well my issue is just that it's mostly for university and I don't really have the room to really want to store more large clunky shit.

I'm going to assume that there's not any sort of convoluted cable chain to hook it up to a monitor

I'll just browse craigslist and yard sales for a few weeks after I move in then and hope for the best.

[Anonymous No.2580247]

>>2580060
>I don't really have the room

small crt.

[Anonymous No.2580252]

>>2580060
Those PVMs that autists here jizz themselves over are tiny.

I don't have one for that reason. I like my enormous monstrosity. But just saying.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2580257]

>>2579628
>however there's not really any resources I've been able to find in terms of channel availability (Since the FC runs on US channel 95)
It's very simple mod to get the Famicom to output composite video. Anything that you'll get to connect it to a monitor, especially if it's being fed via your PC is going to add a stupid amount of input lag though.

>>2580252
PVMs are pretty deep regardless of screen size. It might not be terribly high quality, but a generic ~13'' CRT TV might be a better fit for a dorm.

[Anonymous No.2580270]

To more helpfully respond; if you absolutely won't go for a tube tv; just emulate on your PC. HDTVs are bad news, and proper scalers are ridiculously expensive.

[Anonymous No.2580390]

>>2579802
It's possible that they could lack the unused pins and official cables always lack them.
I actually managed to hack up an 2.54mm pitched circuit board connector (which was little damaged due of inpatient desoldering, the other one is fine) to fit and it works nice.

[Anonymous No.2580834]

Not really repair related but can anyone suggest me a good step down converter in the 100w wage?

Looking to go from 120v to 110-100v

[Anonymous No.2581031]

>>2580834
Not necessary. I run jap power supplies on 120v all the time. Before doing so I consulted the electrical engineer where I work.

[Anonymous No.2581113]

Was cleaning my old Game Boy and discovered the DC power jack is loose as a $3.50 hooker.

Looked online and couldn't find replacement connectors explicitely stating compatability. So guess I'm asking "does anyone know where to get them", "is there a easy technique to fix the plug-in I have", or should I just get rechargeable AA batteries rather than use my Battery Pack?

[Anonymous No.2581410]

>>2581113
Sounds like it's almost definitely a broken solder joint. If you open it up it should be obvious, you can easily fix it by reflowing it with a soldering iron.

[Anonymous No.2581498]

I know this is technically not retro, but can anyone help me fix my ps2 avs? I tried asking on /v/ with no luck so I want to try here. Basically my picture flickers a bit, sometimes I get a really dark picture, other times the screen goes black, so I have to get up and wiggle the cable. I can get it to work with no issues for a whole gameplay session but sometimes in the begging I do have to fiddle with the wire. is it the cable or the ps2?

[Anonymous No.2581505]

>>2581498
Try a different cable, if that doesn't fix it, crack the whole thing open and look for loose solder joints on the connector.


>I tried asking on /v/ with no luck
how surprising

[Anonymous No.2581751]

What is the temperature that a cartridge can take before fucking something up?

[Anonymous No.2581796]

>>2581498
aren't there technical help threads on /vg/?
inb4 "FUCK /vg/ AND THEIR TALKING ABOUT THINGS IN AN ORGANIZED MANNER!!!! TRIPFAGS!!!!"

[Anonymous No.2581813]

>>2581796
>aren't there technical help threads on /vg/?
There are none active, nor are there any in the entire archive.

Where did you get that idea from?

[Anonymous No.2582024]

>>2581751
I would guess the temperature it takes for the plastic to melt, or the solder around 360 to 420°f.

[Anonymous No.2582070]

>>2581796
There was a period of time where this general was in /vg/, but now it's in /vr/ for some stupid reason.

[Anonymous No.2582078]

>>2582070
>now it's in /vr/ for some stupid reason.
>LAL WAOW y this retro games themed repair thread on retro video games board?

[Anonymous No.2582082]

>>2582078
>shitposting this hard for no reason.
There's no reason this general couldn't go in /vg/. There are people with PS2s, OG Xboxs and other non-/vr/ systems that they'd like to repair and/or mod.

[Anonymous No.2582090]

>>2582082
>There are people with PS2s, OG Xboxs and other non-/vr/ systems that they'd like to repair and/or mod.

Because it's impossible to have two threads on two boards with different focuses.

Go start one there, there's literally nothing stopping you.

[Anonymous No.2582098]

>>2582090
>Because it's impossible to have two threads on two boards with different focuses.
You're arbitrarily drawing a line between retro and non-retro systems when there is absolutely no reason both can't be covered by a repair & mod general thread in /vg/. The only thing that you accomplish by dividing it up like that is splintering the community.

[Anonymous No.2582114]

>>2582098
>The only thing that you accomplish by dividing it up like that is splintering the community.
Yeah, it makes total sense for people to see a retro board and then go to a different board to look for repair tips for their retro shit.

I will continue posting these threads, if you make one there, I'll link to that one here.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2582132]

>>2582070
To my knowledge these specific threads started on /vr/, tried to go to /vg/ and had to come back due to a lack of posts and them rolling off the board.
Even with how slow /vr/ is, they die pretty often and rarely make it anywhere near bump limit.

The idea to use the forum for non-/vr/ is a nice thought, but it's a ghost town there even when you decide to link it in the thread.

[Anonymous No.2582181]

>>2581031
I know it's "Not necessary" but if I'm going to invest in some Japanese systems I want to baby the fuck out of them.

[Anonymous No.2582212]

I grabbed a Vader Model 2600 today at a yard sale, but it's kind of broken. It works, but it's finicky...namely the Power switch is busted off and it's a bitch to turn the system on.

I do have a replacement switch coming from ebay, and I also have a s-video mod board coming as well.

Anyone who has done the S-video mod, how much of a pain is it?

[Anonymous No.2582215]

>>2582212
The Atari is very simple to work with. Shouldn't be a problem.

[Anonymous No.2582771]

Hey guys, I have two third party Genesis model 2 power adapters in pic related. However, upon close inspection they both differ in output. Which one would be safer to use? Thanks :)

[Anonymous No.2582774]

>>2582771
> :)

No

And the one on the left most likely. 10v 0.85 A is the official one.

[Anonymous No.2582776]

>>2582774
I did that to be nice because I'm asking a question... Thanks though.

[Anonymous No.2582778]

>>2582776
No problem.

And, I was doing it because if you do that else where people are going to be much meaner.

[Anonymous No.2582781]

I have an X'Eye but I don't have the proper power cable for it. It's got a very strange voltage and amperage, 9.5v 1.5a.

Any recommendations for an alternative to the official cable?

[Anonymous No.2582785]

>>2582781
Make your own.

[Anonymous No.2582787]

>>2582771

The Atari contains a 5V regulator circuit that has a 2V drop so the closer the input is to 7V, the better it is for heat/efficiency. Below 7V the power supply will drop out of regulation, while at 12V and above you'd be risking overheating.

[Anonymous No.2583756]

So I just bought a model 80000A Sega Saturn. I'm aware that I'll need a mod chip to play CD-Rs in it. Can anyone recommend me a mod chip or expected price range?

[Anonymous No.2583791]

I'm planning to mod my SNES (B6592F chip) to output component video. I currently have two 220uF 35V caps, assorted resistors, and some spare wire. Does anyone know where exactly I should put my RCA jacks? I was planning to put them on the back where the Nintendo repair service phone number sticker is, but as you can see in pic related, that might not be an option. Any ideas?

http://nintendoage.com/auth/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=71069

^This guy replaced the RF output with a 9-pin mini-DIN female and used a 9-pin mini-DIN male to 3 RCA (red, green, and blue) female. I might try this, but I don't know which mini-DIN pins the RCA female cables are hooked up to.

[Anonymous No.2583835]

>>2583756
Universal PCB is about 40 bucks, and it's the gold standard nowadays.

[Anonymous No.2584796]

>>2583791
If I was doing that mod, I would probably replace the RF box and put in its place a 3.5mm TRRS jack and just use a TRRS to 3 RCA adapter for component. Optionally, I would bore out the 3-4 channel select and put a 3.5mm TRS stereo jack.

[Anonymous No.2584801]

>>2584796

[Anonymous No.2584806]

>>2583791
You're pretty much stuck with cutting out the RF box and doing the mini-DIN. As for the wires, it all depends on the cable you're going to use.

So, if I where you, I'd buy the cables first, test which pins are hooked up, then wire the mini-DIN accordingly.

[Anonymous No.2584832]

>>2584796
>I would probably replace the RF box and put in its place a 3.5mm TRRS jack and just use a TRRS to 3 RCA adapter for component.
That's a great idea.
>Optionally, I would bore out the 3-4 channel select and put a 3.5mm TRS stereo jack.
For Audio?

[Anonymous No.2584849]

>>2538957
rubbing alcohol and a q tip

[Anonymous No.2584864]

>>2584832
>For Audio?
Yeah, but you wouldn't have to since you could just use the normal AV cables for stereo.

[Anonymous No.2584884]

>>2583791
Couldn't you just wire it to the multi-out and use a custom cable? That would look a lot cleaner in my opinion.

[Anonymous No.2584894]

>>2584884
Every pin on the AV out is used on early SNES's. You'd have to cut traces on the board to free up those pins to be used.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2585035]

>>2584894
True, but if they happen not have any use for the native RGB the system puts out, that'd be a perfectly fine plan. The 3.5mm or mini-din are definitely neater ideas, especially for keeping the RGB lines intact.

>>2583835
I can get a Phantom for <30 and from what I've seen of it, it's equal in quality; Is there any reason you'd explicitly suggest the Universal V3 over it?

[Anonymous No.2585049]

How tough is it to install MegaAmp? I'm sick of hunting for a proper model 1 genesis.

[Anonymous No.2585051]

>>2585035
Honestly? Didn't know Phantom existed. If it's got the same compatibility the Universal does, no reason to get one over the other unless it's a shipping/logistics problem then.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2585059]

>>2585051
I can't say I've looked extremely indepth on either of them, but I've seen it suggested pretty well with the same type of stuff as the V3, and it installs just as easily(connect the cables up and run a line for power).

As you said, you can get the V3 for ~$40 (or at least that's what segastyle has them for) or the Phantom is being offered for around $30 shipped by someone on assembler, as well as a multitude of other mod chips.

[Anonymous No.2585062]

>>2585059
Yeah I just saw that actually. Gotta say, getting a region free Saturn bios is tempting...

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2585068]

>>2585062
I'm probably going to end up getting a Phantom and XenoGC from them soon, but have been holding off slightly for that reason; I'm wondering if it would be smarter/easier/better to get a region free bios or just go with the switchless region mod. I have more than enough junk Genesis controllers to steal the IC from.

[Anonymous No.2585069]

>>2585068
In my experience, Switchless region mods are annoying as hell.

Honestly though, it's not much of a problem with saturn games, as patching the region on games is ridiculously easy (look up Saturn Region Patcher), it's just nice if you both burn games and buy imports, especially since I'd rather use my official memory cart than an action replay.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2585072]

>>2585069
That's what I've read.
And I wouldn't mind picking up a few imports if I had the money, just to have an actual copy to hold and use.
I'm probably going to end up getting an AR for simplicity's sake, if I can figure out whether there's a specific version that's more compatible/capable than others.

[Anonymous No.2585080]

>>2585072
If I remember correctly, most games are compatible with the AR. Panzer Dragoon Saga has a lock-out, but there's a code to go around that. Other than that the only real games you can't play are KoF '95 and that Ultraman game, due to the ROM cart. But the Ultraman game stinks and the KoF cart, at least, is region free, so you can always region-patch a burned copy to play it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2585085]

>>2585080
I'm speaking more on its capability as a RAM cart than anything. I'll have some way to get around region locking no matter what, I just vaguely remember reading something about either a certain AR or the AR in general not liking to play well as a RAM expansion for a few games.

[Anonymous No.2585201]

Anyone know of a place to get a good GBA back light kit?

[Anonymous No.2586792]

Anyone know of a decent place to find original Gameboy cartridge shells? I've had this 25-in-1 multicart for a while, and it has marks that lead me to believe something bit it. Any links would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2587338]

Has anyone gotten a replacement outer screen for their DMG gameboy? How was the accuracy/quality? Would prefer a brand new part but will steal one off a junked unit with a decent enough screen if I need to

>>2585201

Not retro, brah

[Anonymous No.2587530]

>>2587338
It really should be considered retro, it's over 10 years old.

And I've helped people that have asked with non retro questions instead of just brushing them off like a jackass like you did.

And yes, I have bough a game boy replacement screen before for the brick. They're 1:1 replicas and I couldn't tell the difference

You're welcome.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2587738]

Not really sure where else to ask this, but:
Swaptricking PS1 games; Essentially every game I've tried has worked perfectly fine, not audio hiccups or anything with a single exception. The Rockman Complete Works games; Sound effects for stuff like shooting and taking damage are strange and rather than just happening in a given circumstance, they echo on continuously; Shooting the buster repeatedly results in a layered effect.
Resetting the game sometimes removes the echo until you shoot the buster again, but other times it doesn't. It's also followed out of the game and into the mode select and options screen.
2,3, and 4 I can say explicitly do it, as I didn't feel like dealing with the same expected result from 5 and 6.
I use Spyro 3 as my base/swapped disc for most things and it works perfectly fine (outside of these games); I tried MMX5 to see if anything would change, and all that led to was rather than just having terrible audio quirks, the game also decided it was going to play in slow motion as well.

I get that the true fix for this would to get actual copies of the games, but that's just not feasible at the moment. I'm curious if it would happen in a PS1, but I haven't had to chance to test it yet. So far all of these problems have been on a 90001 PS2 with FMCB. I can't see it being FMCB's fault as it's just there to simplify the swapping, but I suppose it's not impossible.
Any ideas on what could be causing it/how to fix it? Are the RMCW games just not PS2 friendly?

[Anonymous No.2587762]

>Google "atari 2600 parts"
>click on best electronics
>holy shit, they should partner with that timecube guy

Good place to get components for the Atari 2600? I have one with a busted power input, and since I'll be replacing that, I may as well fix an even more busted power input on my original 2600 form way back when. Being a cheapass, I'm scoffing at the $6 price I've found so far. And I don't even know what to generically call the thing so I can try finding it in a place not marketing it as a 2600 repair part.

Also RCA female to Coaxial male adapters? For the prices I've seen so far online, I may as well just see if the remaining Radio Shack stores still has any left in stock. I'm surprised I couldn't find any on monoprice.

[Anonymous No.2587915]

>>2587762
Digikey

They pretty much have anything you could want.

[Anonymous No.2587932]

>>2587338
>Has anyone gotten a replacement outer screen for their DMG gameboy?
If you mean that plastic window with "DOT MATRIX WITH STEREO SOUND" then yes.
>How was the accuracy/quality?
That what I gotten was not original but very close.
The very slight differences in color and text position/size was only visible if I compared them next to each other.
I also bought one for my GBC with similar results but the "BATTERY" text uses a different font.

[Anonymous No.2587987]

>>2587762
>that timecube guy
you made me laugh loudly, thanks =)

[Anonymous No.2589442]

>>2585085
There are models that won't work with games that won't work with a 4M card.

[Anonymous No.2589854]

>>2587762
>And I don't even know what to generically call the thing

It's an ordinary 3.5mm mono jack (AKA 3.5mm TS socket or jack). The connector sleeve goes to ground on the power circuit and the tip goes to +ve. The third pin on the jack does nothing (it's the jack detect and thus useless on a pwr connector) and is shorted to the 2nd pin on the circuit.

Hell, you could replace it with whatever sort of input you want as long as you wire it up correctly. You can feed the 2600 anywhere from 7.5-12V DC with at least 500mA, though ideally you want to stay at 9V or under to reduce any risk of the 7805 overheating.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2589858]

>>2589442
So it's an incompatibility with 4M cards in general rather than the AR itself?

[Anonymous No.2589864]

>>2589858
That's the only issue I've experienced with a model that has the problem. Granted I don't use that one much because I have a few others that work fine with everything. But yeah, pretty sure that's it.

[Anonymous No.2590546]

I bought one of those aftermarket joystick replacements for the N64 (specifically, the GameCube styled one), and I've been getting this problem where after playing for like 2 or 3 minutes, the neutral position resets, so Mario is slowly tiptoeing forward. If I press L + R + Start and reset the neutral position, he'll be fine for about another 2 minutes until it changes again.

Did I get a faulty joystick?

[Anonymous No.2590580]

>>2590546
The aftermarket replacements tend to be way sensitive and the potentiometers are probably slightly varied so it's throwing it off. That's my guess anyway. Could you return it and get a replacement?

[Anonymous No.2590584]

>>2590580
Can't return it unfortunately.

[Anonymous No.2590586]

>>2590546
>Did I get a faulty joystick?
Let me guess. There's neither a PIC or AVR based microcontroller inside it but a single unmarked and unknown IC, then this is your problem.

[Anonymous No.2590610]

>>2590584
The problem likely comes down to the microcontroller in the joystick. There was a forum somewhere where you could order a replacement microcontroller for the joystick that would improve things but I don't have the link

[Anonymous No.2590631]

>>2590610
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3574.msg31291#msg31291
I actually wanted to post it in >>2590586 but I forgot it.
I also bought the same premade stick a few years ago and measured the same non-sense as he did, then I replaced the IC with an ATtiny24.

[Anonymous No.2590825]

So I've noticed my Famicom has its expansion audio way too over powering. I'd like to control the channels individually. How would I go about taking Pin 1 of the CPU, and Pin 2 and turning them into mono jacks that I could plug in a mixer? I was reading about the expansion audio also having to be from pin 46 of the cartridge pinout on the famicom.

[Anonymous No.2591290]

How do I apply HD textures to Zelda Ocarine of Time?

And on that note, I'm having trouble using the Dolphin's Direct3D modes, it always make the emulator crash. I play it on OpenGL just fine but for some reason, it doesn't work on Castlevania The Adventure ReBirth so I tried rendering it in direct3D and in no games work when I do that.

Is this even the right place for asking? Sorry, and thanks beforehand

[Anonymous No.2592458]

My NES has been bugging out on me lately. I am familiar with blinky screen and scrambled graphics. Lately, my NES has been giving me what Iv describe as "matrix bullshit": random text and characters popping up and scrolling on screen. I tightened the pins not long ago and it didn't help. Pic is of a mild case of this happening yesterday. Again, I don't remember this happening years ago.

[Anonymous No.2592482]

>>2592458
RIP

[Anonymous No.2592567]

A year or so ago, I posted about an NES that had a constant wave pattern across the screen. If I remember right, the fix was to change a few capacitors on the board. Anyone know which ones, or have a good guide for doing this?

[Anonymous No.2592654]

so I have a phantom universal modchip in my model 1 saturn, it was working fine for months but I just moved, and now that all my shit is unpacked and I've got time to play games my Saturn is saying that my drive door is open whenever I try to play anything. I made sure to be extra careful with all my /vr/ boxes when moving (can't say the same about my dad handling my shit unfortunately but I don't think he would've not been careful with anything) but does it look like anything was shaken loose? the modchip seems to still be installed correctly as far as I can see, but I'm really stumped here honestly

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2592764]

>>2592654
Have you tried manually actuating the door sensor?

[Anonymous No.2592852]

got a white screen issue with my NES. I have the lockout chip disabled and also have a new pin connector on it, but it has trouble reading games still. I used to be able to get games running after a few re-inserts but now I can't at all ever. I know this is a really common issue I just can't get it to work though. sorry if this issue is to common to post. I feel like also worth mentioning is with this newer pin connector the spring tray that you push down has a harder time locking into the down position, you have to push it pretty hard for it to stay in place. even when I take the tray out and just push the game down with my hand it doesn't work though. any ideas? is it possible that I already need to replace the pin connector even though it's just a few months old?

[Anonymous No.2592865]

>>2592764
don't know why that didn't dawn on me, bent the little metal piece a bit so that it made contact with the other little bit and it's working again! thanks for the help friend

[Anonymous No.2592903]

>>2592567
Answering my own question post-google for anyone else with the same problem.

http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=475289

[Anonymous No.2593787]

>>2592852
New pin connectors are generally shittier then the old ones. Refurbishing old ones are way better then buying a new one.

You're experienced the flaw in the new pin connectors.

[Anonymous No.2593942]

My SNES Jr displays this along with a humming noise when I turn it on.

What can cause this?

[Anonymous No.2593964]

>>2593942
The power cap(s) have likely failed.

[Anonymous No.2593975]

>>2593964
>>2593942
Check power from the adapter before looking at capacitors.

[Anonymous No.2593992]

>>2593975
The power caps are actually inside the power adapter I believe. New adapter would be the easiest thing.

[Anonymous No.2594000]

>>2593992
Yes, and you should measure its output before looking deeper.

If it puts out appropriate power under load, the problem could be elsewhere.

[Anonymous No.2594008]

>>2548179
A professional money waster like you belongs in the US government.

[Anonymous No.2594407]

>>2594008
In the Department of Fugly no less.
What kind of fucking clown would brag about a piece of shit like that?

[Anonymous No.2595902]

So I was able to pick up a 2-slot MVS board at a recent swap meet.

It needs a new battery and I want to consolize it. Where do I start? Any resources for parts or where I can send the board to be worked on?

[Anonymous No.2596000]

>>2595902

I know you're going to want to get a Bios chip for it to re-enable some stuff and allow retail games to play on it.

Apart from that, sorry, I can't help.

[Anonymous No.2596859]

Hey /vr/. I just bought an Amstrad GX4000, and it doesn't turn on.

Troubleshooting says its the power brick, as it also looks pretty fucked.

Is there anything I could do to try and get this thing going? GX4000 power bricks aren't common so I was wondering if it shared the same power cable as another console, or maybe another workaround?

[Anonymous No.2596863]

>>2596859
Have you measured the output from the power brick?

[Anonymous No.2596875]

>>2596863
Yeah, nothing at all comes out.

[Anonymous No.2596897]

>>2596875
What are its listed input and output ratings?

[Anonymous No.2596912]

>>2596897
11V - 500ma

My variable switcher I use for my 2600 can only do 9 and 12 at 600ma. Scared to try it...

[Anonymous No.2596952]

>>2596912
The only pictures I can find say it takes 220v input. Is that what yours says, and if so is that what you're feeding it?

I can't really find any replacements at that rating.

[Anonymous No.2596964]

>>2596952
The power supply produces absolutely nothing. The little thing I used to test it didn't display anything, and it didn't even heat up when plugged in the wall.

[Anonymous No.2596972]

>>2596964
Perhaps that the fuse in the primary circuit is busted. Do you measure any kind of resistance on the AC plug?

[Anonymous No.2597042]

I burned a copy of FFVII for my chipped PS, but it has long black screen waiting times before battles, and after 10 min the walking got buggy as hell. at 20 it just froze.

This is most definitely a cd burning problem, or could it actually be something with the laser? I mean, the game is only read like 1/4th of the times I try.

[Anonymous No.2597507]

Need some help here, I recently started doing some solder work as a hobby and have being doing mostly fine until yesterday. I tried to replace a GBA cartridge battery and decided to to remove all solder from the cartridge and replace it, the problem is I can't seem to able to put a solder back no matter how much time I leave the soldering iron in place it doesn't melt the solder. I have do this before with other stuff (motherboard, gpu, etc), why isn't it working in here?

[Anonymous No.2597517]

>>2597507
Not retro gods don't like you is why.

Maybe you can appease the gods with some actual retro repairs. And you can try lots of flux along with wetting the iron before.

[Anonymous No.2597526]

>>2597517
Okay just pretend I'm talking about GBC then.
>And you can try lots of flux along with wetting the iron before.
I will try that.

[Anonymous No.2597584]

>>2597507
>>2597526
>wetting the iron
Wait how do I do that?

[Anonymous No.2597590]

>>2597584
You put a bit of solder on the iron before going to heat something up.

[Anonymous No.2597595]

semi-related (i hope) since i almost exclusively use it as an emulation machine:

my psp seems to have issues with the inputs. depending on the game, it's sometimes giving off a left command, like driving in a straight line in wipeout, then suddenly turning left and falling off the fucking track fuck god damn.
or sometimes pushing a direction button, especially up or down, doubles as the X or square button for some reason. i wondered if the contacts were sticky but they don't seem to be.

is it fucked?

[Anonymous No.2597640]

>>2597584
>>2597590
I've always heard referred to as "tinning" the iron.

[Anonymous No.2597657]

>>2597590
>>2597517
Also, there doesn't seem to have any metal piece where the solder used to be only a brown piece of plastic, does that make any difference?

>>2597640
Yeah, me too.

[Anonymous No.2597660]

>>2597640
Same thing. I just say wet since tinning is too close to retinning.

[Anonymous No.2598163]

>>2597584
You wipe it on the damp sponge you use to clean it.
Oh wait, this is the new /v/ where spergs make up their own meaning for words. Never mind.

[Anonymous No.2598305]

>>2597507
Flux flux flux

Get liquid flux and dab some of that on.

[Anonymous No.2598379]

>>2598163
>Oh wait, this is the new /v/ where spergs make up their own meaning for words. Never mind.
Are you autistic or something?

"Wetting" is a term that's been around longer than /vr/, meaning getting the tip of the iron "wet" with solder.

[Anonymous No.2598386]

>>2598163
http://www.epectec.com/pcb/defects/poor_lead_wetting.html

[Anonymous No.2598592]

>>2598386
If you'd read the page you desperately Googled for you'd see they never say the term means what you think it does. Some /v/ tier fail there kid.

[Anonymous No.2598742]

>>2598592
Go play in traffic, you sound like the "lelz PSX only ever meant the failed DVR shit!"

"Wetting" an iron is a saying that is older than you are, but that's not really a difficult accomplishment.

[Anonymous No.2598787]

>>2598742
The link posted didn't support the claim made.
Show otherwise if you aren't happy with someone pointing out this simple fact.
Throw a tantrum if you think this is /v/.

[Anonymous No.2598805]

>>2598787
>The link posted didn't support the claim made.
I never posted a link.

"Wetting the iron" is something I first heard my grandfather say almost twenty years ago, and it's been a moderately common phrase I've heard in this field since.

I'm sorry you can't comprehend phrases you don't personally know.

[Anonymous No.2598846]

>>2598805
>You said I posted a link
>I quoted where you never said that
>you can't comprehend
Wetting the irony are we?

[Anonymous No.2598860]

>>2598846
Oh man, someone on the internet misread something, stop the presses and start world war 3.

You're contributing nothing, shut the fuck up or post something that actually addresses some of the issues in this thread, instead of going on an autistic tirade about a common term you don't like.

[Anonymous No.2599001]

>>2598860
>post something that actually addresses some of the issues in this thread
Kids using terms no one else does sucks for communicating. It's a bad idea. It makes you look stupid and people will ignore any useful advice you might have to offer.
I hope this addresses one of the main issues we've had recently in this thread.

[Anonymous No.2599029]

>>2599001
Tell me, do you claim higher mathematics don't exist because you don't know them either?

Because you sound like a total retard with this trying to claim this phrase never existed.

[Anonymous No.2599165]

so, is anyone here familiar with maintaining MSXs? I have a pretty banged-up CX5M, but I think it's starting to have problems similar with how most NESs break down (trouble starting games up. Crashes easily when jarred). Not sure it's because the pin readers are worn out or it has taken too much damage over the years. It was already missing keys before I bought it.

[Anonymous No.2599182]

>>2599029
>This shit is higher mathematics.
Maybe for you kid. Back to leledit.

[Anonymous No.2599189]

>>2599182
Are you going to say anything intelligent or helpful, or are you going to continue going off like one of those /v/ or reddit retards you seem to have a phobia of?

[Anonymous No.2600229]

>>2599189
I was hoping to answer some questions but it looks like everyone got scared off with all this talk about how someones grandfather wetted his iron when he welded his SNES to his N64.

[Anonymous No.2600335]

>>2600229
I have a question, I want to make what I would consider to be the ultimate retro video game setup for use with top of the line upscalers. I'm interested in future proofing the original hardware by ways of that and flashcarts. I have the flash cart part down, got some basic RGB stuff going with SCART cables and the xrgb-mini.

http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=150915

I want to make a listing that perfectly expresses what I want, post it and then have someone with a good rep work with me to finally make this happen. I'd pay for all the parts and labor of course.

In addition since hearing about Gameboy Interface I want to hack my Gamecube, how do I go about that in the best way possible?

[Anonymous No.2600523]

>>2600335
I stopped reading at upscalergs. The simple answer is a gun in your mouth. It will solve all your problems.
Or maybe someone on /v/ can help you. I mean answer your question. No one can actually help someone so deranged.

[Anonymous No.2600541]

>>2600523
Because I want to use an upscaler? I don't get it.

[Anonymous No.2600543]

>>2600541
Come along now honey, don't talk to the autist. Leave the poor beast alone.

[Anonymous No.2600547]

>>2600543
I'm sorry man, I just miss /vr/ from a few months ago.

[Anonymous No.2600549]

Helo, I have an issue with a sega cd.
Wont turn on. I already search for bad caps to no avail. I'm running out of ideas.

It's a model 2. I have it powered off one of those retro console all-purpose power sources, already tested with a NES and another Sega Genesis Console.

Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.2600601]

>>2600549
You most likely have a blown fuse on the main board. I bought a broken Model 2 Sega CD for $1 and there was no power. Found info on the blown fuse issue and just bridged the two connections and it fired right up.

That was about 7 years ago so its a bit hazy in my memory, but google it, im sure you can get it running again. Good luck!

[Anonymous No.2600737]

Are buy threads not allowed here anymore? I haven't seen one in a while

[Anonymous No.2600740]

>>2600737
Not sure. Has it been awhile? They might be getting mass-flagged or something. Try starting one and see what happens.

[Anonymous No.2600741]

>>2600737
>>2600740
Too many scammers

[Anonymous No.2600742]

>>2600737
I think one of the mods doesn't like them. The main problem is non retro shit always show up in them.

[Anonymous No.2600745]

>>2600741
Damn, did that really happen? I don't follow them too closely I guess, but for some reason I thought I recall hearing good experiences. Guess I'll check the archive.

[Anonymous No.2600752]

>>2600547
When summer started.
kek

[Anonymous No.2600753]

I just got a Game Boy that's in almost perfect physical condition, but it looks like there's dust under the screen...How do I get back there to clean it out? I noticed that the screws are proprietary. Is it safe to pull the screen off?

[Anonymous No.2600756]

>>2600753
You'll want a triwing screwdriver to open it to clean behind the screen cover.

[Anonymous No.2601012]

>>2600547
The problem is that containment broke on reddit, and /v/ is going full autist and leaving its containment to "le eppick troal" threads like this.

[Anonymous No.2601273]

>>2600753
Tri-wing screwdriver. Take it apart, don't take the front cover off, you won't have any way to stick it back on really.

The minimum tools required to work with game boys and games is a tri-wing screwdriver and a security bit, 3.8mm.

[Anonymous No.2601539]

>>2600543
>>2600752
>>2601012
This is nice but I still didn't get any help with my questions.

[Anonymous No.2601570]

>>2600745
I don't follow closely either but someone tried to make one and that's what everybody was saying.

[Anonymous No.2601692]

>>2601539
>This is nice but I still didn't get any help with my questions.

We're not a group of encyclopedias. You'll have to wait until someone who knows about what you want shows up.

I deal purely in basic restoration of older consoles. I don't know anything about upscalers or anything beyond optical drive repairs in gamecubes.

Sadly, people like Mr. "wetting was never a term because my limited world view is adamant truth" tend to drive useful people off.

[Anonymous No.2601696]

>>2601692
You know how to do that? Ever think about expanding into mod chips and drive replacements?

[Anonymous No.2601697]

>>2597657
I'm having a feeling that the metal plate where the battery tab is supposed to get soldered fell off.

Can you take a picture of it? It should be a golden colored piece where the tabs are soldered, if its brown that means it dropped and you're looking at the actual bare material the board is made of.

If this happened just follow the trace and bridge the tab onto the appropriate place where the tab was supposed to be connected

[Anonymous No.2601704]

>>2601696
I have, but my wallet told me not to.

[Anonymous No.2601707]

>>2601704
Mod chips aren't too bad though.

[Anonymous No.2601714]

>>2601707
I'd need additional consoles to have one unmodified, and a few for side to side testing.

If I'm going to recommend things or advise people on anything, I want firsthand experience with multiple variations of both the mods and consoles.

[Anonymous No.2601758]

>>2587762
Here's an adapter for $2 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-Female-to-F-Type-Coax-Male-Adapter-Buy-2-Get-1-Free-/280843294622?hash=item416390979e

[Anonymous No.2601917]

I'm having problems with my SNES (PAL version).
Some games start but with graphical glitches (Yoshi's Island: Top third part of the screen glitches), some games shows black or only Nintendo (C). What could it be? I've opened it, caps seems fine.

[Anonymous No.2604063]

Replacing all the capicators in my nomad

[Anonymous No.2604081]

My old PAL SNES only shows back screen, tried with all my games and even cleaning the pins.
Did it kick the bucket?

[Anonymous No.2604093]

>>2529301

is there any way to modify ROMs to get them to work on stubborn emulators? for example, I have a JXD that will play almost all GB roms except for Tetris (the most common GB game)... i've downloaded 2 different versions of the rom and neither one wants to load... most other ROMs work flawlessly... is there a rom debugger or something of that sort to make them compatible with more emulators??

[Anonymous No.2604173]

>>2604081
Try a new power adapter

[Anonymous No.2604748]

I just installed a new laser for my US model 1 Saturn (MK-80000). I've tried adjusting the orange pot clockwise to get it to read discs, but I've got no luck. The closest I probably came is when the screen said the disc is an audio CD with 1 track that's 999:59 long. However, the most often occurring problem is when the screen above the CD controls displays no text after saying "Checking disc format." The blue bar at the top doesn't display anything either. The play, pause, next and previous track, and stop buttons are also greyed out. Going counter-clockwise has been giving me "Drive empty" errors so far.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2604804]

>>2529301
Hey /vr/ I just bought this off eBay for cheaps and noticed these small chips in the console. They are on each corner and this one is the largest.

Anyone have an idea of how to mend this? Will jb weld do the trick?

[Anonymous No.2604806]

>>2604804
JB Weld, Greenstuff, something like that, and then painted. Not sure myself, but it's worth a try.

[Anonymous No.2604845]

hey guys, having a problem with my snes controller, wondering if cleaning will fix it.

the down/up on the dpad are being bitches. if i don't press exactly up or down the input will err diag left/right. i have to press right at the middle tip of either point for a down or up input.

do you think cleaning will fix this? im nervous about cleaning it, because the last controller i cleaned the L/R got all fucky.

[Anonymous No.2604895]

>>2604748
Here's the issue I'm having right now. I feel like I can get this to work somehow as long as I'm not getting "Drive empty."

[Anonymous No.2604904]

>>2604895
>>2604748
-You didn't remove the solder bridge on the laser
-drive door switch is fucked/dirty
-laser is fucked
-psu fucked
-pins on the psu fucked/firty
-cables going to cd rom are fucked
-Saturn is fucked
-everything fucked

Now you know why there's a market for the SD card readers.

[Anonymous No.2604958]

>>2604904
>-You didn't remove the solder bridge on the laser
I did. I didn't use an anti-static soldering iron (I don't have one), but I unplugged a regular iron after it got hot enough to desolder the joint and put it on the joint with desoldering wick. (http://www.segastyle.com/SaturnJVCLaser.html))

>-drive door switch is fucked/dirty
I'm pretty sure that it would keep saying "Drive door open" if that were the case. I had that problem with my Dreamcast.

>-laser is fucked
I'm not sure how/why that would be the case. I bought it new from eBay, unless I somehow wasn't careful enough during the installation.

>-psu fucked
Maybe if there was a wire going from there to the motor or laser that was fucked up it would explain it.

>-pins on the psu fucked/firty
I've been constantly unplugging the connector from the motherboard in order to open up the console fully to get access to the orange potentiometer on the laser that I've been adjusting, but the pins look fine to me.

>-cables going to cd rom are fucked
The motherboard-to-CD-board ribbon cable looks fine. There's a small pinch in the ribbon cable connected to the laser on one edge, however.

>-Saturn is fucked
>-everything fucked
>Now you know why there's a market for the SD card readers.
I might look into that, but I have a Model 2 that works fine. I'll put the V3 modchip in that if I can't fix my Model 1.

[Anonymous No.2605552]

>>2604093

to answer my own question, Goomba kinda fixes this for me by converting them to GBA format... not what i had in mind (emulating them inside an emulator), but it's working well and it's the only way i can get the original Tetris to work.

[Anonymous No.2605574]

>>2604895
I miss seeing that screen.
Honestly, I never thought I would, but I do.

[Anonymous No.2605608]

>>2605552
Why not play DX instead? It's got more and better features, and you can patch the original game's music in.

[Anonymous No.2605813]

>>2601758
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141696077498
Found 20 for $10 shipped. Too many? Well I have a lot of consoles and often lose the things.

[Anonymous No.2606071]

I'm looking to get an Atari 2600 but I'd just like a few things cleared up first:

1) I live in Australia but I'm currently looking for an NTSC unit as I assumed that PAL systems run 17% slower and in 50hz. Is this correct?

2) How difficult would a composite mod be?

3) I've heard that I can plug any Atari power supply into any Atari and have it work. Any truth to that? I have a stepdown transformer so it's not a problem if I have to get a NA power supply.

[Anonymous No.2606748]

>>2601704
Try RGB.

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=54523

[Anonymous No.2606752]

>>2606748 Was meant for >>2606071

Sorry.

[Anonymous No.2608192]

>>2606748

That looks pretty good. Is it still worth me getting an NTSC system though? I'll avoid it if I can because the USD/AUD conversion rate isn't exactly in my favour atm, but I'm not putting up with 50hz and slower gameplay.

[Anonymous No.2608221]

>>2608192
>>2606748
Pretty cool

I was wondering if it would go in a 2600 Jr. I know the 4 and 6 switchers have sockered chips, but what about the Atari Jr? Does it have socketed chips? Been a while sense I've opened mine.

[Anonymous No.2608687]

>>2604804
>>2604806

HAd this on my Gamecube.
Used Greenstuff (2 part epoxy putty) to repair.
When cutting in it pushed the filled part of as epoxy putty looses it's adhesive properties when cured.
Superglued the fill back into place as it was still the perfect shape.
Painted black.

Note. If you need to use super clue and some oozes onto the plastic, do not use acetone (nail varnish remover) as it will melt and scuff the plastic.

I was fortunate to get another gamecube for £2 at a carboot sale the next day, so the scuffed one is now spares. :)

[Anonymous No.2608845]

Anybody know about repairing a ROB? Mine has a problem with the arms.

[Anonymous No.2608878]

>>2608687
I would strongly recommend doing retrobright before painting it.

Retrobright can remove the inherent brittleness of teh yellowed plastic, its why your SNES got chipped in the first place.

Painting over the yellow bit is just asking for it to shatter at some point.

[Anonymous No.2608885]

>>2604845
just pay attention when you take it apart, or take pictures of the shoulder buttons so you know how they need to go back.

and yes, cleaning WILL help, unless traces/contacts are fucked.

[Anonymous No.2609028]

>>2608845
Elaborate on the problem?
Don't move, move erratically or independently?

[Anonymous No.2609042]

Question about a 60hz modded megadrive model 1. I got a friend who's being offered one with a switch based mod for £60(around $90) with a controller, scart & 1 game.

Seem fair? Otherwise I was thinking of trying to find a MD1 in good shape and modding it with a friend.

[Anonymous No.2609284]

>>2609042

Your second option would be cheaper but £60 doesn't sound too extravagant. Just make sure it doesn't have a VA7 motherboard.

[Anonymous No.2609305]

>>2609284
Not sure of the MB but it's a non TMSS board so that would probably narrow it down I assume.

[Anonymous No.2609339]

>>2609305

Well non-TMSS MDs only had VA3, 4 and 5 boards as far as I know so you should be fine.

[Anonymous No.2609360]

>>2609339
Might just jump on it then. It's in a decent shape, only problem is they decided to install a flick switch at the top right of the console which looks a little shitty but £60 is a fair price I think since it already includes everything.

Thanks anon.

[Anonymous No.2609361]

>>2609042
I think you should steer clear, I have seen MD1s for way less and if you can mod it without any kind of expedition with a competent friend then you should totally get an unmodded MD1 for less than 40$.

[Anonymous No.2609369]

>>2609361
>unmodded MD1 for less than 40$

By the way, this included all the necessary cables, 1 controller and 2 games.

[Anonymous No.2609415]

>>2609369
I'll think it over. Listings for old consoles in the UK are typically all over the place, people massively over pricing or putting £20 shipping on top, and it's specifically the PAL MD1 that I'm looking for.

[Anonymous No.2610871]

Trying to figure out what is wrong with my SNES. Some games boot up and with some all I hear is sound. Ghost N Goblins boots up but won't take me to the first level. Super Star Wars seems to have some glitches on start up screen.

I'm pretty much having the same problem as this guy here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yq07WjdPEs

Any info is appreciated. Want to try and fix it. It's my original SNES from 1991 so it's kind of hard to throw away lol.

[Anonymous No.2610879]

>>2610871
Any game that I can get to boot up doesn't seem to get past the start up screen.

[Anonymous No.2611232]

>>2610871
>>2610871
Could be anything really. You could try cleaning the cartridge slot, but this looks like a bad CPU or PPU. I used to repair many SNES consoles and the most common problem I saw was a bad CPU. But it possibly be some broken trace(s) somewhere or a bad PPU. If you have a flash cartridge you should run the burn in test rom. It will give you a good idea of what to check.

[Anonymous No.2612029]

Have some Gameboy games that need battery.

They use CR2025 but I was wondering if a CR2032 would fit because it's more common to find tabbed in a name brand.

[Anonymous No.2612216]

>>2612029
If it's 3V, I don't see why not. But CR2032 is thicker, so you might have a tight fit.

[Anonymous No.2612224]

>>2612216
Yeah, that's what I was wondering.

I can't seem to find some name brand 2025 tabbed.

[Anonymous No.2612484]

>>2612224
There's some name brand tabbed 2025s on ebay, I grabbed some last time I needed some, they work pretty good.

2032s don't fit in any game boy game that isn't a HuC3 game, really. (Robopon, etc). They're just too big, especially tabbed. 2025s fit in most games though, even ones that use 1616s.

[Anonymous No.2613910]

>>2612484
What name brand?

I can't seem to find any listing that shows a brand

[Anonymous No.2613969]

>>2613910
Panasonics. Though looking, I can't find them either. Weird.

https://mortoffgames.com/ sells tabbed cr1616 and cr2025s though. Can't vouch for them personally but I'm probably gonna order some 1616s for myself.

[Anonymous No.2613979]

>>2613969
Thanks. I might order some from e-bay and see what quality they have.

Also.
>MFW they carry N64 Thumbstick Gears and I can restore some dozen N64 controllers.

[Anonymous No.2614961]

I just posted this in the 70s-90s computer general thread:
>>2614953

I think that game consoles and cartridges from 90s are affected as well by this problem.

[Anonymous No.2615269]

>>2614961
>I think that game consoles and cartridges from 90s are affected as well by this problem.

Everything from the 90s with electrolytic capacitors can have this problem, simply because the components are old.

Some consoles have defective ones that fail sooner, and not all of them actually leak unless they're physically damaged.

[Anonymous No.2615937]

PAL RGB Scart Nintendo.

For SNES, N64 and Gamecube, which RGB Scart cables need capacitors?

Got a cable with capacitors, works for my Gamecubefine.
Just audio and no picture on my n64... except for one time it did work on my N64 but the audio went off when this happened.

Remember there will be different answers in comparison to NTSC.

[Anonymous No.2615965]

>>2615937
1. A unmodded N64 doesn't output RGB
2. All video signals is terminated with 75ohms in the cable and then passed to the TV with an capacitor.
3. The only exception to above is the Gamecube, there's no need for 75 ohms termination on the RGB lines.

>except for one time it did work on my N64 but the audio went off when this happened.
Most likely bad contact.

>Remember there will be different answers in comparison to NTSC.
NTSC is also simple to remember, everything goes straight to the TV with the RGB from SNES being the exception which just needs capacitors in the same way as the PAL Gamecube.

[Anonymous No.2615984]

>>2615965
Is there any drawback to the PAL gamecube using a RGB cable WITH capacitors?

If my RGB cable has caps for the PAL gamecube, should I remove them or leave them??

[Anonymous No.2616064]

>>2615984
You misunderstood me.
There are supposed to be capacitors in the cable.

[Anonymous No.2616076]

>>2615965
Strange thing about AV Scart (Non-RGB) sometimes when buying cables from eBay, they will randomly have a resistor bridging two pins. Sometimes these AV Scart cables even have capacitors. No idea why.

[Anonymous No.2616087]

>>2616064
I guess I have. So GameCube still uses capacitors, but no 75ohms termination?
I'm guessing that's done with a resistor?

[Anonymous No.2616182]

>>2616076
>they will randomly have a resistor bridging two pins.
Which pins?
If it's 8 and 16 with 5V directly on pin 8 then it's very bad. An connection to a VCR could damage the console because it puts 12V on pin 8 to switch the TV to the AV input.

>>2616087
>I'm guessing that's done with a resistor?
Yes, a resistor to ground.

[Anonymous No.2616190]

>>2616076
They are there to conform to standards - one of the pins (forgot which) should be 3 volts, hence the resistors.

[Anonymous No.2616335]

>random idea

Say I have a cga card with ntsc composite output. Would it be possible to mod this to pal composite?
Screen syncs fine to ntsc rates but won't display any colour, so I guess only the colour modulation would have to be changed (somehow)?

[Anonymous No.2616389]

>>2616076
sometimes they lack that resistor and you won't get RGB when you could (this happened to me with GC/SNES cables once, adding it in fixed it)

[Anonymous No.2617775]

>>2533651
The contrast/light dial, maybe?

[Anonymous No.2621124]

>>2601697
Sorry for the very last reply, I finally got some flux and decided to check for answers.
I>'m having a feeling that the metal plate where the battery tab is supposed to get soldered fell off.
Yeah, I though as much, here is the picture (I swear it is a modified GBC cartridge).

>If this happened just follow the trace and bridge the tab onto the appropriate place where the tab was supposed to be connected
How so? I manage to put the solder on the botton so I shouldn't worry much about that but what about the upper one?

[Anonymous No.2621127]

>>2601697
Sorry for the very late reply, I finally got some flux and decided to check for answers.
>I'm having a feeling that the metal plate where the battery tab is supposed to get soldered fell off.
Yeah, I though as much, here is the picture (I swear it is a modified GBC cartridge).

>If this happened just follow the trace and bridge the tab onto the appropriate place where the tab was supposed to be connected
How so? I manage to put the solder on the botton so I shouldn't worry much about that but what about the upper one?

[Anonymous No.2621459]

what's the best way to fix a squeaky analog stick?
I bought a new PS1 controller today and the left stick squeaks like a mofo and feels like sticks a little when I move it.

Spraying lubricant into the mechanism did little to help it

[Anonymous No.2621470]

>>2621459
>Spraying lubricant into the mechanism did little to help it
You didn't just spray WD-40 into a plastic part, did you?

[Anonymous No.2621479]

>>2621470
>>2621459
I've used Astroglide with great success on squeaky or sticky sticks before. Works like a charm.

[Anonymous No.2621490]

>>2621479
The best option would be white lithium. You can get it at any hardware or automotive store.

[Anonymous No.2621502]

>>2621470
oh my yeah I know better than you use that to lube electronics.
what I used is liquid wrench since it's supposedly safe for electronics

>>2621490
that could be a good purchase. a proper electronic lube would be convenient to have

[Anonymous No.2621807]

>>2621490
silicone oil/grease > lithium

[Anonymous No.2622531]

I have an NES that blinks the light on and off, seeming to be stuck resetting every other second. I've read that the culprit is usually an old or defective 72pin connector, so I took it out and wiped it down even though it looked brand new. It's worked once or twice, seemingly at random, so I'm not sure how to proceed. Buy new 72pin connector off ebay? Or could it be something else?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2622715]

>>2622531
Boil it for 5 minutes, then let it dry out completely.

Just don't let it sit on the bottom of the pot you're using.

[Anonymous No.2622858]

>>2622715
Seriously?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2622883]

>>2622858
Scrubbing with rubbing alcohol+tooth brush and adjusting the pins with a small screwdriver didn't do jack shit for my 72pin.

Suspending it in and boiling it for ~5 minute or got it to go from not reading at all to working 90% of the time without needing to even push it down.
You might want to take it out after a couple minutes, give it a quick run through with a tooth brush to possibly unlodge any gunk and put it back in for a few more, being careful not to scald yourself of course.

The resetting is caused by the 10NES lockout chip; Often times grimy pins can lead it to not be able to communicate with counterpart on a game cartridge and as such resets the system. There are ways to disable/bypass the 10NES to keep the system from resetting automatically, but games that won't read still won't read whether it's around to pester you or not.

[Anonymous No.2622886]

Anyone ever done a wireless mod on their retro controllers? Is it something that someone without an extensive background in hardware modifications can do?

Alternatively, are there any third party wireless controllers that hold a candle to the official controllers?

And in case anyone brings up latency, it's not something I'm concerned about.

[Anonymous No.2622965]

>>2622883
>>>
it's not just the lockout, it's also the connector.

disabling the lockout will help, but it won't do shit if the connector's hosed. it'll just make it not blink.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2622973]

>>2622965
>Often times grimy pins can lead it to not be able to communicate with counterpart on a game cartridge and as such resets the system. There are ways to disable/bypass the 10NES to keep the system from resetting automatically, but games that won't read still won't read whether it's around to pester you or not.

[Anonymous No.2623032]

>>2622886
>Anyone ever done a wireless mod on their retro controllers?
Yes

>Is it something that someone without an extensive background in hardware modifications can do?
No

>Alternatively, are there any third party wireless controllers that hold a candle to the official controllers?
Yes. There were a few made at the time that were pretty good. They're all IR though.

>And in case anyone brings up latency
Hopefully not. Summer is almost over. Those of us not back-to-school shopping with mommy don't blame latency on our in ability to git gud.

[Anonymous No.2623074]

>>2623032
>They're all IR though.
This was why just about every wireless controller back then was crap. I remember there being RF Atari controllers back in the day (bulky as fuck) and I'm surprised there wasn't some kind of good wireless controller before the WaveBird.

[Anonymous No.2623217]

>>2622715
Thanks, considering how inexpensive a new connector is, boiling the old one seems like a pretty risk free trick, as worst case scenario I replace it and best case I fix my nes for free. Will try tonight.

[Anonymous No.2623474]

>>2623217
I did this about a month ago with good results.
Also bend both the top and bottom pins of the cartridge connector back into the center.

[Anonymous No.2623909]

Hopefully I can get some well-educated responses from my electric bros.

This blog:
http://blog.luftek.si/2013/07/cgb-gameboy-color-power-supply.html
states that the max Vin for a Game Boy Color is 5.20V (thru the DC Adapter) and the minimum is 1.80V.
USB, I believe, provides 5V of power. Could I just rig up a 2.35mm x 0.75mm connector to a USB plug and power the GBC through USB without damaging any components?
Thanks in advance, ELECMAN

[PAL SCART Guy No.2624030]

PAL SCART guy again.
Pics of one Nintendo SCART cable I want to use on my SNES.
pics aren't terribly clear but tried to show what is currently on the pins.

I'm guessing this is missing the 75ohms termination to ground?
Are the caps and existing resistor the correct ratings?
Do I need to add extra resistors for the RGB lines?
If I understand right each of the R G and B need their own individual resistor that goes between their own PIN and a ground pin/line.

I have great soldering experience, but it's mostly like metal lego to me and little knowledge of actual setup of fine electronic components.

Any help is much appreciated. The patient guys with some expertise who have advised me so far are awesome.

[PAL SCART guy No.2624083]

>>2624030
Fucking forgot my pic.

[Anonymous No.2624303]

Damn, $70 for a PROFESSIONAL mod for S-video, stereo, and removing the lockout tabs on my original SNES? What a steal! It's not like it supports S-video natively, and RCA-1/8" y-cables don't exist! And I don't own a pair of pliers, so I might as well give this total cuck $70! :)

[Anonymous No.2624695]

>>2621127
Can you take better pictures?

[Anonymous No.2624704]

>>2624303
>PROFESSIONAL mod

It's not any more professional as if you'd sent it over to a hobby modder with the right tools.

[Anonymous No.2624758]

>>2624695
Hmm maybe, I only have my cell phone shitty camera but I will see what can I do. What exactly are you having trouble seeing though? Maybe I can explain it.

[Anonymous No.2624781]

>>2624303
That's really not that absurd if it includes shipping costs. Also, people pay much higher for things like computer maintenance. I don't know why people get angry about other people offering services at any price, don't like it? Don't pay for the service. He's not selling a physical product, he's selling his time, who are you to tell him what his time is worth? Can do the mod yourself? Congrats, welcome to the club.

People pay to not do shit, people pay for peace of mind. His work looks clean enough from the one picture of soldering I can see, fuck off.

[Anonymous No.2624816]

>>2624303
>PROFESSIONAL
kek

[Anonymous No.2624916]

>>2624781
But the original SNES supports S-video natively. That mod in particular is purely redundant, and the idea of spending $70 on something that can be solved with two cables is fucking retarded.

Are you the modder in question performing damage control or something?

[Anonymous No.2626347]

>>2623909
Bumping for hope

[Anonymous No.2626393]

>>2622883
So I disabled the lockout chip, removed the 4th pin. System still resetting every other second. Gonna try the boiling trick next, if that fails I may be out of options.

[Anonymous No.2626425]

>>2626393
I already told you fool. Gotta bend the pins. top row first, bend down to the middle then the bottom row up to the middle.
Use a safety pin bent 180 degrees at the ti so it has a hook end.

[Anonymous No.2626741]

>>2624695
Here, it doesn't get any better.

[Anonymous No.2626751]

>>2626741
Buy a not potato to take pictures with dude.

[Anonymous No.2627092]

>>2626425
Mind posting a pic of what you mean, or a 2 second mspaint mockup? I think I get it but I wanna be sure, measure twice/cut once and all.

[Anonymous No.2627582]

>>2626741
can't make out shit.

Sorry.

[Anonymous No.2627610]

Picked up an untested SNES, hoping that it'd either work or just be a cart slot issue. The cart slot is in great condition, seemingly no bad contacts. I booted the thing up and the graphics are a garbled mess, however. Has anyone seen something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EC6klsZs9Zg
Could it be the ppu or vram? Or could a dirty cart slot make shit look like this? I tried wiggling the cart around while testing games in this video and that didn't seem to change anything.

[Anonymous No.2627618]

>>2627610
Well, the game is playing fine. It seems to be some sort of video related issue.

I'd be interested in seeing what mode 7 looks like.

[Anonymous No.2627624]

>>2627618
F-zero plays at 7:20 and Pilotwings plays at 12:20 if you want to see heavy mode 7 use.

[Anonymous No.2627637]

If Super Metroid has weird stuff go on when I pause/save/get an item (screen gets weird filter, background sprites flip out) and none of my other games have any issue like that, would it be something wrong with the cart?
I can go take a picture if needed.

[Anonymous No.2627760]

>>2627637
My childhood SNES did the same thing, but the graphics were far more distorted. The games would play, but the screen was a mess.
Polite sage because my post is not helpful.

[Anonymous No.2627812]

>>2627637

[Anonymous No.2627827]

>>2627812
>>2627637
Did you try cleaning the contacts?

It may also be how the cart is seated in your console. Give it a gentle wiggle to see if it changes anything.

[Anonymous No.2627854]

http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Universal-Adapter-SNES-GENESIS-Sega/dp/B001S2VT6I
Anyone used this before?

[Anonymous No.2627869]

>>2627624
Well, mode 7 is completely fucked.

I'd say check the PPU's. Open the SNES and check traces and make sure nothings out of place.

>>2627854
Don't. Never use these Chinese knock offs. You'll experience more problems then it's worth. Get the real ones.

[Anonymous No.2627945]

>>2552592
No no, you can use it to load the exploited save file for the specific 007 game so you can make an official SONY memory card into a different system menu of sorts that will allow you to play burned games and ISOs of a hard drive. You might be able to play pal games. Not sure if I tried or not.

[Anonymous No.2627967]

>>2562849
Did you clean the switch itself? Don't mangle that SNES advantage.

[Anonymous No.2627978]

>>2626741
Judging by the resolution, you're doing something wrong with the focus.

[Anonymous No.2628357]

>>2626751
>>2627582
>>2627978
I don't know if it helps but i found this picture, couldn't find one without the battery though.

>>2627978
The camera's focus is fixed, it's good for taking pictures from afar but awful for close ones.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2628402]

Can anybody recommend a decent but cheap rotary tool or something that would be suitable for cutting holes in various console shells?

I've found two for <20 on ebay and amazon, but I'm dubious of the quality and longevity of them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151426076134
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS

[Anonymous No.2628557]

>>2567438
I've done this to two Dreamcasts because everyone says it's so easy...

To be fair, and this is actually why I came here: What is the approximate OHMs the Dreamcast laser should be at? I have a Dreamcast that I THOUGHT I screwed the laser up in, but it would seem the laser is still coming on. I am understandably afraid to screw with it anymore without any hard info

[Anonymous No.2628568]

>>2570581
Call me a fag, but why not just get a GBA? It would be able to play all the GB, GBC, and GBA games.

[Anonymous No.2629163]

>>2623909
>>2626347
Read the fucking comments, for real. Literally the top comment answers your question.

[Anonymous No.2629313]

If I was to get a Japanese system like the Famicom, what type of power adapter would I need to make sure I wouldn't fry it?
I live in the US.

[Anonymous No.2629346]

>>2629313
You could use the japanese adapter or an american one that has the same output and barrel jack size.

[Anonymous No.2629380]

>>2627092
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=bend+NES+pins&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=w4_XVYrcJ6Hy7AakmITgAg

Top 4 results are all exactly what you need m8

[Anonymous No.2629568]

>>2629346
Like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-US-Power-Adapter-Super-Famicom-FC-NES-Nintendo-HVC-002-Replacement-DC-SFC-/141750783304?hash=item2101014d48

[Anonymous No.2629572]

>>2629568
That seems to be correct. I would be careful about buying things from ebay/china though

[Anonymous No.2629576]

>>2629572
Yeah, china is a coinflip to buy from.

[Anonymous No.2630073]

>>2628357
From that picture the bottom contact is negative, the torn off trace should then be positive.
You'll have to scrape off the green coating to expose the copper underneath from the trace that's torn off to solder to it. You'll need flux to help it stick.

[Anonymous No.2630146]

I've got an NES that's giving me a ton of ass pain lately. I have the lockout chip disabled and a new pin connector on it, but I can't get games to load up correctly on it. I tried the other two pin connectors I have as well and I have the same issue with those. when I have the spring bed out I can situate the games in a very specific place on the pin connector where they work correctly (which happens to be diagonal, which is annoying), however with the spring bed on its impossible to get the games to hit that sweet spot, or working position. are all 3 of the pin connectors I have bad or what? this thing is driving me fucking nuts. I thought I fixed it last week but now it's doing this shit again and I'm stumped. I can buy new pin connectors again I guess (although I'd rather not if I don't have to) but I'm really not trying to buy a new NES. Just not sure what to do, hopefully one of you fine folks can help me out here. Seems like a common enough issue, maybe I'm just missing something.

[Anonymous No.2630157]

>>2630146
New pin connectors suck ass. Should have fiddled with the orgional

[Anonymous No.2630226]

>>2630157
I still have that one, it worked better than the new ones but it still sucks and doesn't work anymore. I had that one working for like a week but it quit on me today. What would I even do with it?

[Anonymous No.2630279]

>>2630226
Scrub it with 70% alcohol and take a safety pin and bend the pins up a bit

[Anonymous No.2630684]

Got this Super Mario All Stars a few months back. I opened it to clean it and it was a complete mess but it did work. Today I took another look at it and while I was checking it out the cap just fell off. I have some soldering experience and would like to replace the battery on it as well. I see corrosion underneath it. The old cap says 6.3v 22uf. I see some on ebay that are 6.3v 2200 uf. Are those the same thing? I feel like replacing the resistors too. Anyone know what values they are? Would I have to remove them to find out what they are?

[Anonymous No.2630690]

>>2630684

[Anonymous No.2630696]

>>2630684

[Anonymous No.2630697]

>>2630684
No those are not the same capacitors. 22uf is not the same as 2200uf. As for the resistors, those are marked by the color bands. Look up a chart 9nlinwe.

[Anonymous No.2630701]

>>2630684
22uf =/= 2200 uf

22uf = 22,000nf or 22,000,000pf

http://www.remotemonitoringsystems.ca/uF-nF-pF.php

[Anonymous No.2630706]

>>2630146
See
>>2629568

It's 4 posts above you.
Did this and took my NES that wouldn't play any games at all and now it plays all games perfectly.
Don''t forget the top row of pins. most people skip them as they aren't easy to see. Do the top row first.

[Anonymous No.2630707]

>>2630684

[Anonymous No.2630712]

>>2630697
Ok Thanks for the info!

[Anonymous No.2630758]

>>2630684
>>2630697
These pink things ain't resistors but (small ceramic) capacitors (there are even labeled as C4 and C5 where the C stands for capacitor).
I think you should just carefully tip the corroded metal with solder, if it doesn't stick then try to clean it with some chemicals like alcohol or acetone (don't get that on the plastic or battery) and try again.
Also clean the rust off the solder mask.

[Anonymous No.2631038]

>>2629380
Bent the pins, no effect whatsoever. The connector is clean, the pins connect well, I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Maybe I should give up and get one of those modern NES playing consoles, this is going nowhere.

[Anonymous No.2631223]

>>2630684
This is the cap that fell off. Anyone know any good places to get one? Don't see many places that carry 6.3v 22uf or at least I think that's what it says on it.

[Anonymous No.2631227]

>>2631223
Other side.

[Anonymous No.2631284]

>>2631223
This capacitor seems to be between ground and 5V, for the purpose to smooth the supply voltage on the cartridge itself.
You can use anything with 6.3V or more volts but NOT less.
Anything from 22µF to 68µF should work fine, more could work too but might be too big for the cartridge shell.
>>2630684
And the PCB seems to be highly contaminated with electrolyte, clean it really good and even under the chips as that stuff is conductive which could crash the game or corrupt your saved data.

[Anonymous No.2631374]

>>2630279
I already did that, forgot to mention it. Is there anything else I can do?

[Anonymous No.2631603]

>>2611232
Tried cleaning it but still the same problems. Could replacing the caps maybe help? Here is a pic of my SNES board. Are these caps removed differently? Don't see the solder on the opposite side of the board. Also mine is empty on C67. Have seen pics where there is a cap there. Any reason why it isn't there?

[Anonymous No.2631767]

>>2630684
>>2630690
>>2630696
>>2630707
You need to apply some patience and completely clean that board up before you do anything else.

[Anonymous No.2632610]

>>2631038
Are you sure your games are clean and working?