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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 103 KB, 684x629, GTW reverse.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1753993 No.1753993 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Got questions about repairs, mods, or other technical details? Bring 'em here.

If your console has trouble reading games or self-resets, you may just need to clean it. Check out the game an console cleaning guide first before asking questions here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

GTW needs more repair and mod info! If you're working on a project, consider adding what you learn (or links to guides you use) on the wiki.

>> No.1754565 [DELETED] 

>>1753993
FINALLY I GET TO A REPAIR/MOD GENERAL THAT ISN'T FUCKING 500 POSTS IN

Someone HAS to help me.

What is the best solution for N64 Joystick repair?
I bought 3 replacements similar to pic related and they feel fantastic, except for 3 problems
1. It's very difficult to tiptoe or move slowly; the joystick seems to be very sensitive
2. It's very difficult to make small circles with the joystick
3. The joystick seems to enjoy "snapping" to the 8 directions

All of these problems are noticed when playing, not when just feeling the stick.

Is there a solution? Am I just fucking doomed to not playing N64 games optimally?
Right now I'm using an N64 to USB adapter for emulation, and if need be I can just switch to gamecube or 360 controllers for that, but for playing on actual hardware all I've got are the new sticks which seem great until they aren't.

Does anyone have a solution?

>> No.1754568
File: 417 KB, 1090x475, 8t3tg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1754568

>>1753993
FINALLY I GET TO A REPAIR/MOD GENERAL THAT ISN'T FUCKING 500 POSTS IN

Someone HAS to help me.

What is the best solution for N64 Joystick repair?
I bought 3 replacements similar to pic related and they feel fantastic, except for 3 problems
1. It's very difficult to tiptoe or move slowly; the joystick seems to be very sensitive
2. It's very difficult to make small circles with the joystick
3. The joystick seems to enjoy "snapping" to the 8 directions

All of these problems are noticed when playing, not when just feeling the stick.

Is there a solution? Am I just fucking doomed to not playing N64 games optimally?
Right now I'm using an N64 to USB adapter for emulation, and if need be I can just switch to gamecube or 360 controllers for that, but for playing on actual hardware all I've got are the new sticks which seem great until they aren't.

Does anyone have a solution?

>> No.1754579

>>1754568
By the way, this is what the stick looks like
I don't know who designed it
Physically it feels fucking great but it's too "powerful" or something because it's very easy to have mario running when you want him to tiptoe.
I think they knew about people who have problems with joysticks that don't go all the way and they overcompensated.
http://www.amazon.com/Redesigned-REPLACEMENT-Joystick-Controller-Thumbstick/dp/B009MRZAUC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404959589&sr=8-2&keywords=N64+controller+joystick
here's an amazon page

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Joystick-Nintendo-64-Controller/dp/B0058FLXZ8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1404959589&sr=8-13&keywords=N64+controller+joystick
This one looks more akin to the classic style but I just don't know

>> No.1754581
File: 11 KB, 300x300, 41hJkGWodUL._SY300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1754581

>>1754579
FUCK

>> No.1754587

Best place to get a set of screwdriver bits for opening various nintendo consoles and cartridges?

>> No.1754592

>>1754568
And here's some article I found
http://s9.zetaboards.com/Nintendo_64_Forever/topic/7360571/1/

>> No.1754594

>>1754587
I just bought mine piecewise from amazon; don't buy from the used sellers though. Three different sellers, three empty mailers. It's pathetic. But it is handy how it fits in your average bit-and-driver screwdriver, so that's nice.

>> No.1754796

Yoshi's Island visual glitch guy again, I got another copy of Yoshi's Island and it's glitching in the exact same way.

>> No.1755993

>>1754796
super fx chip?
idk

>> No.1756126

>>1754796
>it's glitching in the exact same way.
Do you have a another SNES?
What other SNES games do you have?
I think that it couldn't be the game if a other copy has the exact same fault.

>> No.1756302

>>1756126
I don't have access to another SNES but I do have access to a Super Gameboy, it runs flawlessly on the same machine with any given game. I have a friend with a SNES, I can give that a try.
>>1755993
One of the pins on the last card had about 400 ohms resistance, it was the bottom pin on the SuperFX chip on the right hand side [if the cartridge pins are facing the ground].

>> No.1756307

Im currently about to do the backlit GBC mod. Will any wire do? Like if I were to take some old headphones and solder the wire with them, would the mod fail or...? Sorry. This is my first soldering and wiring mod

>> No.1756959

>>1756302
>>1754796
I'm the guy that tossed out all those ideas for you when you first had that problem.

At this point, I think its a safe bet to say that it's the SNES. Something isn't working and testing on a known good SNES is going to be your best bet

>> No.1756967
File: 65 KB, 800x388, 800px-Coleco-vision-console.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1756967

I just got pic related.
Console works great, but the side buttons on both controllers are not responsive. I also know nothing specific about this problem.
Is this common? How do I fix this? Is it easy to fix, or am I replacing these?

I do have a good electrical skillset.

>> No.1756974

>>1756959
Sadly that's what I'm thinking
It's a shame no place I've ever gone to lets you try before you buy. I wish I could pin down what effect it was that was messing up, because it only happens on a handful of stages. I might try popping the SNES back open and checking all the connections once I've confirmed it's the SNES

>> No.1756986

>>1756967
Its very common on a Coleco vision for the two side buttons to not be as responsive as they should be. I find that some 90% alcohol or some contact helps clean up the switches to a point where they're responsive enough to play.

>> No.1756989

>>1756986
contact cleaner, I ment

>> No.1757259

>>1756986
>>1756989
Good to know. Thanks.

>> No.1759887

>>1754579
>>1754568
I have three of those and they're fantastic.
I've never had any of the issues you describe, however I got my N64 just a few years ago, and bought those replacement sticks almost immediately after, so I've never really played with the original ones. On the other hand all my friends who had N64s as kids tell me that the new sticks feel slightly off compared to the original ones, because most games on the system weren't designed for such smooth analog control. So it may just be a matter of the games themselves over or under empathizing the control stick's movement, in which case there's not much you can do about it.

>> No.1759979

>>1759887
Some sticks for sale are from the old stock, so you just gotta ask the seller when he got it.

>> No.1760875

Recently got an n64, I shouldn't be concerned with frame dips here and there on Zelda should I? I mean it's only when shit is happening and I've been spoiled by 120fps, also is there a way to clean the cart slot? Or should cleaning the carts the only part you clean?

>> No.1761394

>>1760875
The n64 has natural framerate drops in most games, including Ocarina of Time, how severe of a dip are you talking about?

>> No.1761878

>>1761394
Nothing under 15 fps, I had it dip on the second boss fight of Starfox 64 too, I'm just wondering if there's a way to clean the cart reader because I had a game fail to read after cleaning it with isopropyl

>> No.1761913

>>1761878
Well the cheap way to do it is to get an old credit card and a microfiber cloth and alcohol and sandwich it into the connector slot as gently as you can to scrub, but I never found that so effective. You can give it a go, if you really feel like being that neat.

>> No.1761935

>>1761394
>The n64 has natural framerate drops in most games
There's no such thing as a natural framerate drop on a console. That's just silly. No doubt you're just overexposed to N64 games which do have framerate drops like Perfect Dark and Banjo-Tooie. it just so happens that a lot of good games have a low framerate. But that's mostly because the games were good because of their ambition which was beyond what the console could deliver. Less ambitious games have good framerates.

>> No.1761973

>>1761935
He's asking specifically about Zelda, and I said it was only for some games.

>> No.1763787

>>1754796
Are you using a SNES jr, or a third party AC adapter?

Some games won't run on SNES jr's, and some games won't run correctly when using a third party AC adapter.

And I'm not pretty sure about the first one...

>> No.1764150

>>1753993
can u or any anon help me with my console its the US version doesn't light up when powered on with any power adapter and only thing I could come up with on the googs is to replace the 17805 chip/fuse. What do you guys think? I've only soldered a few things before but itseems like a simple fix should I do it?

>> No.1764154

>>1764150
4got to say its a nes console

>> No.1764669

Anyone here modded their Genesis model 1 for S-Video? How hard was it? I've read the guides and it sounds easy enough but I still fear that I will somehow fuck up and destroy a perfectly good model 1.

>> No.1764795

>>1764154
>>1764150

Go for it, my nes had the same problem and some anon in the last thread told me about that 7805 voltage regulator, I changed it and the console came back to life. Also it's pretty easy to change.

>> No.1764912

>>1764795
Hey thanks for the reply! I couldn't find much online about it, but now that you've helped me confirm the problem I'm going to get down to it soon!

>> No.1764957
File: 2.06 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140713_190113.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1764957

Do you guys know anything about scrolling black/green bars through video?

This is from my Super Famicom. A video is probably better but you can see the discoloured bars in the picture.

I searched about and it seems it could be the shit power supply I got with my SFC. I haven't had any problems with any of my other consoles and this issue happened on a different tv. Happens with other carts as well.

I bought a Megadrive 1 PSU to replace the shitty third party one but its not here yet. Is this the cause or is the console fucked?

>> No.1764985

I have problems with my GBA Micro, the on/off switch sometimes work and sometimes don't, and when it does work it can cause the battery lights to flicker like the battery may be running out even if the Micro is at full charge, any tip in how to fix that?

>> No.1765101 [DELETED] 
File: 870 KB, 2048x1536, dscn0510.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1765101

My nes is not working, It just won't turn on, I already changed the 7805 and still, Is there any way to check if something inside that box its dead, or if its something else on the board?

Also, it's there any way to remove and bypass this box completely? I plan to RGB mod it anyways so I won't be needing the video outputs, but the AC adapter plugs there. I just want it to be able to turn on.

>> No.1765106
File: 870 KB, 2048x1536, dscn0510.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1765106

My nes is not working, It just won't turn on, I already changed the 7805 and still, Is there any way to check if something inside that box its dead, or if its something else on the board?

Also, it's there any way to remove and bypass this box completely? I plan to RGB mod it anyways so I won't be needing the video outputs, but the AC adapter plugs there. I just want it to be able to turn on.

Also, pic related is not my actual nes.

>> No.1765284

>>1765106
Buy a multimeter.

>> No.1766046

>>1764669
Most video mods just have you make a daughterboard to do all of the hard work, and fetch signal from the video encoder chip to feed into it. Not much risk if you take it slow, but practice soldering before trying any real projects. Plenty of videos on Youtube for learning how to solder and whatnot.

>> No.1766053

>>1766046
I wish that guy that mods top loader NESs sold his shit separately

>> No.1766103

>>1766053
Electronic engineering and fabrication is a pain in the ass. I couldn't fault anyone for not wanting to assemble mod boards.

>> No.1766118
File: 1.30 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11146.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1766118

I modded my Sega Genesis console for svideo 2 summers ago and just wanted to let you guys know, its totally worth it, and the skill isnt too hard. I got my components from mouser and some general tools from radioshack. It's not as good as RGB obviously, but its a step up from Composite

>> No.1766126
File: 2.10 MB, 2592x1944, SDC11329.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1766126

>>1766118
The rainbowing on waterfalls has gone away and there's better detail on sprites

>> No.1766129

>>1766103
He wouldn't even need to assemble them, just put the parts in a little bag.

Its really a simple mod but he has a rather nice board he get made and all the components are surface mounted

Hell, if he just sold the board or the back panel to the top loader with the AV jack I would be happy

>> No.1767428

That's odd. I reposted the repair thread last night because there wasn't one in the catalog, yet apparently this one was made almost a week ago.

>> No.1769047

Does anyone know exactly what all the SuperNES Test cartridge's Electronics Test tests?

>> No.1769069

Ambiguously retro question, but is there anything in particular that can be used to lubricate moving parts in electronics?

>> No.1769105
File: 1.34 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11148.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1769105

>>1766126
Composite Genesis vs (next pic)

>> No.1769109
File: 1.24 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1769109

>>1769105
S-video (no rainbow)

>> No.1769110

>>1769069
Lithium grease

Or if you want you can go for the super expensive stuff and used graphite grease

>> No.1769116

>>1769105
Oh shit, my friend had that same TV back in the day. It was fucking enormous and glorious.

>> No.1769130

>>1769116
Hitachi Ultravision. 60" Rear Projection. It really is a beauty..

>> No.1769147
File: 42 KB, 776x543, hitachi.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1769147

>>1769130
aka the ad in the constanza baseball clip

>> No.1769661
File: 39 KB, 500x500, gen3crc226.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1769661

Anyone ever tried contact cleaner on cartridge slots?

Worked nicely on some Atari paddles, pong console pots, and 2600 switches. And like the first week of owning a Dremel, I'm wondering what else I can use this on.

>> No.1769707

Not really a doubt regarding consoles, but I figured /crt/ would know.

Does anyone know how to access the service mode of a Grundig CUC5360 or where to find the user manual? I need to change the position of the image; it's off-centered.

Also the remote has buttons that don't seem to do shit, and I doubt they'd put them there "just because".

>> No.1769892

So, my Playstation is refusing to read burned discs more and more. I changed the poti a few times, so the laser gets more power. Is it harmful for the console itself or only the laser? Or would it be better to replace it instead of waiting for it to die?

>> No.1770064

>>1769892
Upping the power for the laser diode kills it faster. Replace the laser assembly while you can still do so with relative ease.

>> No.1770087

>>1770064
Are the laser units compatible with each other or do I have to look for a specific laser unit? I have a 5502, for reference.

>> No.1770105

>>1770087
Sony changed stuff up with every minor revision of the hardware, so you'll have to look for an assembly that at least matches the ribbon cable position and shape of the disc mount platform. That's what I would do, so I'd only have to disconnect the ribbon, pull the old assembly out, and pop the new one in. I mean, you could simply replace the laser diode itself, and I only say simply out of disgusting irony, because it's a pain in the fucking ass if you are familiar with working with small components.

>> No.1770134

I ordered an Everdrive recently, and to save games you have to reset, right?
Well, the reset button on my N64 is completely broke. It had collapsed in like it was fully depressed. After poking at it a few times it now comes back up, but is stiff, and pressing it doesn't cause the console to reset anymore.

I have a similar problem with another N64 I own that I would also like to fix.

It's a Pikachu N64 (pikachus foot is the reset button, the on switch is a pokeball, that one) and it seems to reset randomly. I thought the Everdrive was faulty because it kept crashing to a black screen and sending me back to the ROM select menu, but I noticed that going back to the game I had a save file for the first time.

Are these problems common? Can they be fixed without spare parts? What's the procedure?

>> No.1770227

>>1770134
I have NEVER heard on an N64 with broken reset switch. Anyway, since it's top-mounted, it should be relatively easy to repair/replace, but you'll still have to take the system apart and inspect the switch and its connection to the mainboard for any broken solder or other nonsense that would explain random activation.

>> No.1770258

If the DS anon from the /v/ thread sees this, let me know if that suggestion did anything. It was a long shot, but who knows.

>> No.1770287

>>1770258
I can't get the wire on at all, I tried touching them together, but I couldn't get the wire to be stable enough to touch another wire to it, so then i tried soldering it on, and that didn't work at all. The copper wire just wouldn't solder on to the leg of pin 1 or 2.

>> No.1770304

>>1770287
You shouldn't need to solder anything, you just need to bridge the legs with something conductive.
If it doesn't turn on with that, then we've ruled out the power switch at least.

To be fully honest, I'm only theorizing at this point. All of my experience with the DS line involves screen and game card slot replacement, with some trace repair. Everything else is just what I read and general electronics experience.

>> No.1770314

>>1770304
ds lites will power on with only the charger connected right?

>> No.1770315

>>1770287
Soldering tiny shit is a pain, because tinning narrow wire and leads quickly turns into fire.

>> No.1770317

>>1770315
Doesn't help that my tip is fuckhuge.

>> No.1770324

>>1770314
I believe so. I seem to remember doing it with the one I just dug out here.

>> No.1770329

>>1770317
Same. I CBA to invest in a proper soldering station. I still use the soldering iron I got in college, and once in a great while, the one I bought at Radio Shack back in 2000.

>> No.1770346
File: 3.44 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140715_134548.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1770346

Pic of power switch

>> No.1770391

>>1770314
No, they mostly don't.
They may work with only the charger if the battery is removed during operation, but rarely.

>> No.1770456

>>1770391
The original DS does fucking nothing without a battery.

>> No.1770597

>>1770456
I didn't meant the original DS, I was talking about the DS lite.

>> No.1770623

>>1770597
I was hoping that I wouldn't have had to preface the +1 comment with a goddamn narrative explaining that I was adding a note to the existing discussion about the DS Lite issues, but it was not to be. There is no hope.

>> No.1770758

I have no idea anymore. It won't even charge now.
It was a good try anyways, thanks anons.

>> No.1771416
File: 33 KB, 618x617, IMG_43336011322041.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1771416

Same anon from >>1756967 with the Colecovision controllers.

I got them open and tracked all the circuits on the board and I checked all the wires in the cable. Everything has continuity. The "broken" side buttons measured 0.1ohms and was steady for their entire movement. These controllers are good. The problem has to be inside the system itself.

So, what I have is an internal problem affecting both controller ports that is preventing the system from recognizing when I press either side button on either controller, but doesn't interfere with any of the number pad buttons or directional controls.

What do I need to look for now?
I tried to put some Google on it, but it didn't seem to help very much.

>> No.1771951

>>1769661
I wouldn't go using anything like that on a cartage slot

>> No.1771975

>>1771416
This might yield some clues

http://old.pinouts.ru/Game/colecovision_controller_pinout.shtml

The good thing about Colecovision's is, you can find modern equivalents of most of the components due to them using over the counter Texas instruments hardware

>> No.1773573

>>1771951
Maybe spritzed on a thin cloth, using the credit card method of scrubbing cart slot pins.

>> No.1773798

>>1769661
I do, it has never failed to me.

>> No.1773807

>>1770134
>>1770227
I didn't knew this, and I plan to get one, my reset button won't work either, it is completely normal but it just won't do anything when I press it.

>> No.1775171

>>1773573
Maybe, but you really have to be careful what you use on those pins

>> No.1775227

>>1775171
I use Hoppe's No. 9. It's not just for guns.

>> No.1775236

>>1775227
That would work

>> No.1775682

not really tech related, but i feel this is a good place to ask
is there a way to scan something with a phone app or something that tells me the original purchase date? i want to scan all of my old shit and see when i bought it

>> No.1775685
File: 1.62 MB, 1936x2592, 2014-07-16 22.28.56.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1775685

What's the best way to fix this? Is there something like a copper foil to fix broken tracks that I can paste on it, and seal it with epoxy or something similar?

>> No.1775709

>>1775685
No. You have to surface solder wire from one end of the track to the other. Painting new track on won't work here because they are pretty high resistance. You could get a piece of copper tape but you still need to solder it on both ends.

>> No.1775720

>>1775709
>You could get a piece of copper tape but you still need to solder it on both ends.
Fair enough.

>> No.1775749

>>1775682
Technology is not magic. This is why you keep your receipts and boxes. A barcode is not unique.

>> No.1775754

>>1775749
oh
only receipt i have is for wii u and that was recent ;_;

>> No.1778559

So does anyone know if a Sega Genesis or any console is suppose to have a lower volume when you play it over RF as apposed to RCA?

>> No.1778578

>>1778559
It's not supposed to, no.

>> No.1778586

>>1778578
Well, it must be in the RF box and those are kinda hard to replace

>> No.1778749

>>1778586
>>1778578
well, it could be my TV but its a Sony Trinitron

>> No.1779002

Interesting model 1 Genesis problem:

I have a model 1 (High Definition Graphics) Genesis that seems to have trouble playing more complex games.
The trouble is best exemplified with Ecco the dolphin. When I first turn on the console and start playing, everything goes swimmingly. After about four minutes of playing, glitches begin appearing seemingly randomly in the background, with individual tiles being replaced with others. At this point, when I speak to other dolphins, that text acts extremely jittery.
The same thing happens in sagaia and Street fighter. It does not occur in any of the genesis 6-pak games or Robocop vs. Terminator.

I am 99% certain that the problem isn't with the cartridge connection, as I'm testing these games on an everdrive, and thus don't remove the cartridge between games.

I have opened up the console and looked under the rf shield: the thing looks pristine (although admittedly I haven't looked at the underside of the board).

It may have something to do with heat, due to the greater strain of these relatively complex games. Maybe it's an issue with the onboard ram somewhere? The sound has never glitched out, but the glitch has caused sagaia and street fighter to crash. Is there any diagnostic program I could run, or any physical issue I could look for that would cause this? Have I been screwed over by bit-rot in this ~24 year old system?

>> No.1779024

I made a topic about this earlier not seeing this thread, sorry I did delete it though...

I found a model 2 genesis at a yard sale a few weeks back and it only came with the controller. I have a power supply but no A/V cables but for $2 why not? I was wondering if someone could someone help me find a A/V or RCA mod where I could just have red/white/yellow cable output? (Kinda like the plug and play stuff.) I also have no idea how to tell if my version has good audio or good display. I also have a working model 1 so if I mess this one up with the soldering or anything that would be alright. I tried googling but I could not find much and I didn't really know what to search for. So anyonr with more knowledge on this much appreciated.

>> No.1779223

>>1779024
Genesis 2 AV cables are practically a dime a dozen.

>> No.1779482

>>1779002
You might have nailed it on the head with the heat issue.

There's two 7805s on the model one Sega Genesis and those generate a lot of heat.

It might be worth it to see if you can't replace them or at least test them to see if they're giving +5 volts

>> No.1780302
File: 335 KB, 600x725, tmp_7813-the-legend-of-zelda-oracle-of-seasons-355711898.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1780302

What size batteries should I be looking for gameboy color games? Also what size does anyone recommend on NES and SNES games?

>> No.1780314

>>1780302
Ive never changed an NES or SNES game, but GBCs take 2025s naturally, but 2032s will work just as well.

>> No.1780323

>>1780314
Awesome thanks anon

>> No.1780431
File: 82 KB, 719x713, 1402240031408.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1780431

Is it hard to mod a PAL Snes to us NA games?

>> No.1780445

>>1780323
>>1780314
>>1780302
an anon a while back mentioned that these CR2032 battery holders will fit inside of NES carts, so you can easily replace them the next time the battery dies

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/S8421-45R/?qs=Qom7kyPojXY6z0Gmx3V3RQ==

>> No.1780602
File: 65 KB, 640x480, trivolt02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1780602

>>1780445
I need to take a newer picture of this. I did this back in like 2001 or 2002. I'm pretty sure I still have that same cartridge.

>> No.1780936

>>1780431
Not at all. You only need some basic soldering skills.

>> No.1781821

Finally got around to getting around to buying a soldering iron.

Ended up with a extremely cheap 30w from Radio Shack; I can tell it's shitty, but it seems to get hot well enough, so it'll do for now.

My question is, where should I go/order from for various parts that I might need(resistors, capacitors, etc) as well as wire and such? I'm not doing anything in bulk(for now), just planning on that SNES mini RGB mod that's been over a year in the waiting. I can't think of any electronics store nearby sans Radio Shack, and I'm doubting that my local hardware store will carry such items.

Should I get a small hot glue gun, or will electrical tape be good enough to secure everything?

>> No.1781829

I have the opportunity to buy an as is Sharp Twin Famicom for $20. The FDS side of things loads right up, but it's not reading Famicom carts. Any ideas if this is fixable? I have soldering skills so I'm not worried about my ability to physically fix it, but I don't know where to start looking up info for such a repair...

>> No.1781839
File: 98 KB, 700x531, sharp-twin-famicom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1781839

>>1781829
I'm dumb and forgot to upload my picture

>> No.1781856

>>1781829
>it's not reading Famicom carts
Could you be more specific? Does it not power on/load at all, give an odd colored screen, get stuck in a reset loop?

I don't know much, but NES seem to be one of the more troublesome but easier to fix systems; An offshoot of it would likely be the same.

>> No.1781878

>>1781856
I can test it tomorrow, all I was told by my friend is that the FDS loads, and the famicom side doesn't. I'm still doing some research and it looks like the famicom and NES share almost all of the same hardware...

NES does seem to be pretty easy (and stable) to fix if you know what you're doing though, but I've never seen this specific issue

>> No.1781923

Got a Sega Gensis HD model 1 with slight rainbowing going on. Would recapping the console fix this?

>> No.1781926

>>1781923
If you're using composite, that's natural.

>> No.1781935

>>1781923
thats natural see
>>1769105
>>1769109

>> No.1781946

>>1781935
>>1781926
Well, its not really rainbowing like in the pictures. It's more along the lines of very faint black vertical bars that extend about 90% up the screen and then stop

I am using composite video

>> No.1781957
File: 1.92 MB, 2592x1944, SDC11344.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1781957

ok so when my FRAM chip in my Sonic 3 died, I got a free sample from the replacement chip that the company makes, only problem is they added new pins since then.. :(

>> No.1782932

A heads up to the select few that uses the OG Xbox as their emulator machine (which isn't a bad idea if you don't have a CRT since unlike the Wii you get 720p & 1080i output at the expense of no 240p):

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=857527

Basically the time capacitor of most old Xbox is VERY prone to leaking its internal acids which will corrode and eventually destroy the motherboard. Luckily it is a non-vital component for MOST Xbox so simply by opening the case up and snapping the thing off you should extend the system's life dramatically.

I know this is not quite /vr/ but I'm hoping there will be some leniency with this one post since this could be an urgently needed fix for some people.

>> No.1782993

>>1782932
A lot of Commodore Amiga computers have a similar issue with their CMOS batteries leaking. That battery is pretty easy to replace.

>> No.1783042

Ok, this going to sound vague as fuck but I vaguely remember hearing about a fairly common problem that can afflict ageing Dreamcasts.

The symptoms were mostly the system would reset randomly as you were playing and eventually the thing would be unable to get past the boot screen. It was caused by a few pins somewhere on the motherboard that would get loose when they were heated. Apparently the fix was a simple as using a toothpick or something similar to bend them back in place.

Again, real vague stuff but has anybody heard of this? Because I may be coming down with this thing...

>> No.1783567

Is there a list of general components that would be good to keep on hand in case something in older hardware goes?

Like commonly used resistors, capacitors, fuses and the like? Looking to order some parts and thinking it would be best to bulk up the order to be prepared.

>> No.1783641

>>1783567
I don't have a list off the top of my head, but if you're looking to build up a parts pool, scrapping any electronics that are being thrown out is a good way to stock up.

>> No.1783652

>>1783641
I had planned on doing that, the only problem I see is figuring out what spec that are without looking up a data sheet for each device. It'd probably be a lot easier if I could figure out how to use this multimeter for more than just continuity.

>> No.1783674

>>1783652
I generally don't look to stock anything more complex than the basic things like resistors, diodes, capacitors, and the like. If something needs a specific component, I'll grab a few extras when I order them.

Capacitors and resistors tell you exactly what their ratings are, so they're pretty easy to figure out. (I can never remember the color band chart for resistors, though, and I've been using it for fifteen years.)

>> No.1783678

>>1783674
>color band chart for resistors
Still need to look that up; Should have probably started there first.

>> No.1783754
File: 390 KB, 1684x765, 1403637500831.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1783754

>>1779223
I was actually just wanting to do it for fun/to learn more about the genesis hardware. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Any help would also be appreciated.

>> No.1783827

>>1783754
Just look up any s-video mod; they typically cover composite output as well. It's really just pulling signal off of the video encoder, and amplifying or modulating it.

>> No.1783962

>>1783754
> Genesis ad with fucking awful games

We all know how things turned out for Sega though.

>> No.1784012

>>1783827
Ok thanks.
>>1783962
It was the only Genesis related pic I had lol.

>> No.1784118
File: 877 KB, 1200x1553, Sega Genesis poster.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1784118

>> No.1784124
File: 508 KB, 1183x1561, 1136836401320.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1784124

>> No.1784521

>>1783567
>>1783652
>>1783678

It feels good to have a business license and get components tax free

>> No.1784526

>>1783678
>>1783674
Also, there's an app for resistors now

>> No.1784530

>>1781946
Bumping my question

>> No.1784704

>>1784526
Assuming you're speaking of a phone app, that is of no use to me. No phone aside from landline.

>make thread on /g/ asking about where to source small count components/if cheap to just use RS
>chinese parts from ebay gets brought up several times
>someone mentions sparkfun's starter pack
>doesn't have the one specific resistor I need
Fuck

Still thinking about ordering some solder, wick, and wire strippers from them; Main factor is whether it would be cheaper from them or RS.

Every time I've ordered something from China, it takes damn near 3 months to get here and there are always problems.
Is Mouser a good choice, or should I just settle with Radio Shack unless I have a sizable order?

Another question. Has anyone RGB modded their SNESmini? Trying to decide whether to bypass the default video amplifier or not; That's another problem: While both Mouser and Digikey carry the THS7314DR, neither carry the required board for it and every single option on Ebay has a minimum shipping time of a month+.

>> No.1784743

>>1784704
Jameco is pretty good with NOT HUGE orders.

>> No.1784747

>>1784704
Digi-key is also good source.

I just put in my resellers certificate and they got back to me the next day. I went and ordered about 325 caps from then today as well as some 7805s.

As for buying from Radio shack, they're good for smaller stuff like wick and strippers, but don't get capacitors or any components from them unless you have to. They charge insane amounts for so little.

If you're looking to re-cap a console, you should buy in bulk from Mouser or Digi-key

>> No.1784783

>>1784743
I'll have to look into them as well.

>>1784747
>don't get capacitors or any components from them unless you have to. They charge insane amounts for so little.
That's the main reason I've been asking around.

>If you're looking to re-cap a console
Only thing in the pipes is RGB modding my SNESmini and N64. After that I'll probably look into the GameGear I bought several months ago; Don't have any games to test it, and powering it on just gives a white screen, so I don't know if it even works or not.

Basically, I've got a very small amount of funds to work with and am trying to get the most out of it.

>> No.1784804

>>1784783
Well, I got 325 caps for around 40ish from Digi-key

>> No.1785160

Twin Famicom guy back, I tested it and picked up the system today (along with a cheap FDS and Famicom game to test with.) So it boots right up on the FDS side, on the famicom side I get a grey screen immediately.

Anyone know what the remedy is?

>> No.1785165

>>1785160
Might be the voltage regulator

>> No.1785175

>>1785165
I'm doing research while I wait for more replies here, apparently a grey screen (usually) means the PPU isn't receiving instructions. I highly doubt the PPU is bad, because the FDS side of it can display a picture perfectly fine. Most of the forum posts I'm seeing are saying that the cause is generally a dirty cart or pin connector.

Is there a reliable way to clean the cart port on these? I've clean/bent toaster NES pins before, but not famicom ones...

I'm gonna feel sorta guilty if that's all this is, I paid $20 for the system

>> No.1785182

>>1785175
90% alcohol and a medium tooth brush is what I use to clean slots.

Check each pin for tarnishing or corrosion

>> No.1785289

Game Sack - Console Modding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zszqex-b48I

Let's get this shit started.

>desoldering pump

>> No.1785293

>>1785289
Game Sack is the shit.

>> No.1785518
File: 44 KB, 1087x815, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1785518

I know it's not /vr/ but you guys are the most knowledgable and I need some help. I finally managed to get back my GBA SP from my neighbor who I sold it to around six years ago. Problem is, it's in terrible condition. I can replace the case with some case from Dealextreme and clean the shoulder buttons but there's also some issue with the screen where the corners of the screen have a white glow coming out of them.

I was really excited to get it back because it was the backlit model but now the problem bummed me out. Any ideas?

>> No.1785651
File: 38 KB, 630x205, snap00000028.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1785651

>>1785293
Why are they so based?

>> No.1785661

>>1785651
SMD is much harder to worth with. I don't blame people for using radial.

They have radials that are smaller then SMD now that do the job so why not?

>> No.1785706

>>1785518
Its pretty much done unless you can find a replacement screen

>> No.1785710

>>1785706
Well fuck me. And here I was hyped about finding my old backlit GBA. Maybe I should just buy a gamecube and a gameboy player or something.

>> No.1785715

>>1785710
It is possible to find new screens, but they're not too easy to come by and will cost a bit

>> No.1785719

>>1785715
Judging by prices on Ebay I'm better off just emulating it on my PSP or phone. Truth is I want to buy one so I'll feel better about all these GBA carts I buy. Buying something and then emulating it feels weird.

I'll look for some second hand one or something.

>> No.1785721

>>1785719
It's going to be cheaper to get a new screen then to get a new GBA SP 101

>> No.1787203
File: 223 KB, 960x720, IMG_2371.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1787203

Okay my PS1 won't read discs because this black thing that grabs and rotates the discs. Can I just take that part from like a CD player or something and replace it?

>> No.1787245

>>1785661
That faggot was extolling the virtues of using a hot air solder station, which is about seventy fucking dollars. I have a goddamn degree in this shit, and I won't pay that much just to replace components in a game system.

>> No.1787303

>>1787245
Hot air stations are really nice to have

>> No.1787382

>>1785289
>hot glue is not good for anyone.

>> No.1787463

What's the best method to use when wanting to clean cartridge and console contacts? Will a q tip and rubbing alcohol be sufficient?

>> No.1787480

>>1787463
For light wear, that should be sufficient. Cartridge slots might need a toothbrush or use of a credit card and microfiber cloth though.

>> No.1787491

>>1787203
Yeah, any CD player with a spindle can be used in lui of a Playstation one. You just pry it out and pop the new one on.

Found a vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSxo4zggWoM

>> No.1787545

>>1787491
thanks!

>> No.1787585

>>1787463
I use Hoppe's No. 9, dabbed on a q-tip. It's a pretty mighty solvent, but it's made for cleaning crud out of gun barrels and chambers. Won't eat up your contacts. Takes less elbow grease than mere alcohol. But it's about eighteen times the cost of the same volume of alcohol.

>> No.1788703
File: 2.91 MB, 3264x2448, 20140721_112016[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1788703

I know this isn't retro, but i got ps2 for free and the controllers aren't working all that well.
This one doesn't register x even thought there isn't anything wrong with the button or the mat so i was wondering if its electrical problem and if it is, how to fix it.
I'm gonna dump few pictures here so you guys can see every part and hopefully see what's wrong.

>> No.1788707
File: 2.38 MB, 3264x2448, 20140721_113201[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1788707

2/4

>> No.1788712
File: 3.12 MB, 3264x2448, 20140721_113218[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1788712

3/4

>> No.1788715
File: 2.60 MB, 3264x2448, 20140721_113229[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1788715

4/4

>> No.1788720

>>1788703
Clean up the contact points is all I can suggest.

If the cord has been badly twisted or bent, one of the wires could have broken. The most common cause of this is when someone tightly wraps the cord around the controller.

>> No.1788779
File: 145 KB, 800x600, mg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1788779

Common subject I imagine, NES (NES-001) cartridge slot issues.

I cleaned my cartridges (could try further cleaning I suppose) and disabled the lockout chip. Success have been random. I get a lot of blue screens, sometimes when it does start up, graphics is scrambled, other times it works flawlessly.

Of the 4 carts I have on hand to test, SMB/Duck Hunt & Tetris I've been able to get running. Pic is by best I've gotten out of Metal Gear. No luck yet with a pirate muticart.

Right now I'm trying to "scrub" the slot pins by inserting a folded index card, dry and with 91% alcohol. I'm seeing lines on the card, so I guess something is being cleaned off.

Any other remedies? Or should I just give in an order replacement connectors? What's a good place? Seems to be $10 where ever I look.

>> No.1788795

>>1788779
>Or should I just give in an order replacement connectors?

You'll get better results just cleaning your old one.

>disabled the lockout chip
You shouldn't really do that unless you're absolutely sure it's the issue. If you're using it as a bandaid fix for games not loading, you're just going to continue running into problems.

>> No.1788797

>>1788779
The replacements never last

>> No.1790260

I have an NES where the pin connector isn't bad, it's just loose as fuck. You have to wriggle the cartridge into a precise position to get it to not glitch. Any guides on how to take it apart and adjust the connector? I see guides on how to REPLACE the connector, but not how to tighten it or something

>> No.1790592

>>1790260
Don't you just (CAREFULLY) bend the pins back into place with like, a safety pin or whatever? That's what I did with mine.

>> No.1790734

>>1790260
pretty much this >>1790592

>> No.1792667

I have a question about modding a pal Chip-1 Snes with a 50/60Hz switch. Like a pleb, I started modding my snes using this tutorial: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/snes-5060hz-switch-with-lockout-switch/

The lockout switch works like a charm and imported games work. Sadly, I don't have the ppu chips (not the first time I got ahead of myself). I've given google a look and now I'm left confused as fuck. Is it even possible for a 50/60Hz mod on this board, and if so, how the hell do I do it? I heard something about lifting up the 111th leg on the S-CPUN A chip and soldering that to a switch, but I lost it and things started to go over my head.

>> No.1792737

>>1792667
You need a 6x NTSC subcarrier crystal for 1-CHIP, and make the 50/60 switch between that and the original 4x PAL subcarrier crystal.
NTSC 3.579545mhz*6=21.47727mhz
PAL 4.43361875mhz*4=17.734475mhz

You also need a TV that can understand NTSC, as you even need to mod the video encoder to output proper NTSC composite/S-Video.
Or just use RGB if you can.

>> No.1792768
File: 259 KB, 1365x768, DSC_0090 (Medium).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1792768

>>1792737
Again with the crystals! It like the megadrive all over again. As you can see from the pic, a Japanese game looks very good on my hdtv. Is the 50/60Hz mod really worth it? What are the dangers attempting the mod and failing? Also, is there a really good guide for dummy's for it?

>> No.1792782
File: 103 KB, 600x361, sega-saturn-pc-600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1792782

My Sega Saturn randomly stopped loading discs. Here is what happens.

I put a disc into the system and turn it on. It passes the Sega Saturn intro screen and then hangs while the CD drive sounds like it's trying very hard to load the disc. Eventually, it kicks to the CD player screen and says "The disc is being checked" and then thinks it's an audio CD.

Once recently I was able to load Biohazard, but the loading times were extremely long as the system labored to load. Eventually, during a loading screen green static came up and the game froze.

Any ideas as to what's wrong or how I can repair it?

Pic is the model I have.

>> No.1792818

>>1792782
It may be dying. Is it chipped? My shitass mod chip requires me to bood games from the CD player screen, after opening and closing the disc cover to re-check the CD.

Do NOT crank up the power on the laser potentiometer. It may help temporarily, but it will perma-kill the laser even faster. I'd look around for replacement laser assemblies (not just the bare diodes), to prevent the dreaded WELL FUH-HUCK THAT when looking at the labor required.

>> No.1792829

>>1792768
>Is the 50/60Hz mod really worth it?
Yes, i don't think you want to run into a weird timing bug or a NTSC game that nags you for using 50hz.

>What are the dangers attempting the mod and failing?
Breaking of that pin and blowing the fuse.
You gotta be very stupid to break something else.

>Also, is there a really good guide for dummy's for it?
Here is a schematic and some nice pics of cheapest one:
http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/1chip60hz/
You better shall twist the wire as a high frequency flows through, it's also very sensitive which is the reason why you keep it short.
You also need a double switch and put the crystals near that, doing this in a other way won't work good.
It's also better use separate power wires for the lockout and the 50/60hz switches.

>> No.1793017

>>1792818
It's not chipped. It is one of the original models, so it could just be age. I don't have soldering tools or skills, so that laser replacement looks like more work and money than just buying a new Saturn. I have a NA one, but I prefer using the Japanese one since all my games are Japanese and I like having the cart slot free for stuff other than Action Replay.

>> No.1793086
File: 123 KB, 1101x1205, lo9x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1793086

>>1792829
http://playoffline.wordpress.com/mod/1chip60hz/

I'm completely lost on this guide. My first problem is that I have to use google translate, making a difficult to read. I've also never been any very good with schematics, I'm a real beginner.

I did find a better looking schematic (pic related).

So, does this mean I have to hunt down a NTSC crystal (or at least one with the right frequency)? Bloody wonderful. From the looks of it, I'd also have to solder both crystals together.

>> No.1793154

>>1793017
There is no soldering involved with replacing a laser assembly, in most cases. You disconnect the power cable and data ribbon cable, lift out, and replace with the new part.

>> No.1793183

>>1793086
>that I have to use google translate
I already translated the most essential notes for you.
These 3 sentences.

>I've also never been any very good with schematics
Dude. This "schematic" is so simple, there are flashlights that are more complex than that.

>I did find a better looking schematic (pic related).
That's not a schematic, this is a connection guide for fools who can't read simplest schematics.
You better should said it in your first post that you don't know much about electronics.

>So, does this mean I have to hunt down a NTSC crystal (or at least one with the right frequency)?
Yes.
And don't get the idea of getting/making a variable oscillator, this shit won't be stable enough.
I'm sure that when you can't get it from your local electronic part distributors, then checkout ebay.

>> No.1793191

>>1793154
http://www.segastyle.com/SaturnJVCLaser.html

This is what I found, which says it needs soldering. Is there a different method?

>> No.1793216

>>1793191
Dude, removing solder doesn't take a delicate hand. You could probably do it with a lighter and the end of a paper clip. Heat your iron or whatever, touch it to the solder, and remove the solder. May take a few goes if you don't have solder wick, but any braided wire will suffice, too.

>> No.1793353

>>1793183

>>I already translated the most essential notes for you.
These 3 sentences.

Reading it is not a problem, it just the grammar. With something like this you have to be sure that you can read the instructions.

>>Dude. This "schematic" is so simple, there are flashlights that are more complex than that.

It is a problem when you never had to rely on a schematic before.

>>That's not a schematic, this is a connection guide for fools who can't read simplest schematics.
You better should said it in your first post that you don't know much about electronics.

Being wrong is part of being a beginner. This is the first time that I've been stopped in my tracks modding something and that was just through not getting a clear answer.

>> No.1794446

Would the wire from an old cat5 cable work for doing an RGB mod to an SNES?

>> No.1794454

>>1794446
I don't see why it wouldn't.

>> No.1794541

>>1771416
Coleco anon here.
I thought I'd post my fix on the chance someone is having the same problem.
I found a technical manual for the Colecovision at colecovisionzone.com and used it to trace my problem to the controller IC. I soldered on sockets and replaced the chips and replaced a damaged controller socket that had a piece of it's housing chipped. The parts were easy to find and dirt cheap. I found the chips at Jameco for less than $1 (74LS541).

I got everything back together and the thing came back to life in my arms. It's like a brand new console now!

>> No.1794554

>>1794541
Very nice. Glad it worked out for you.

>> No.1794567

>>1794541
Awesome. The best thing about the older systems is they mostly used off-the-shelf parts. Not that Radio Shack has component shelves anymore. Just a sad little wheeled cabinet. Thank goodness for Jameco.

>> No.1794595

i just want you to know that threads like these are what make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside
you guys are awesome
also, completely unrelated as it's not a console issue, does anyone have any experience with making 'fake' boxes for old cartridge games? i've got a bunch of n64 and gbc games that i had when i was younger and never bothered to save the boxes for, and i wonder if there are scans of the boxes that i can print on glossy cardstock or something
is this worth the time?

>> No.1794635

>>1794595
Coverproject has lots of packaging scans, but many of them have been edited to fit universal cases, or DVD cases.

Good luck getting them printed anywhere, though. Print shops are CONSTANTLY being set upon by Kopyright Kops trying to bait them into printing shit "illegally", so they don't take ANY chances.

>> No.1794648

>>1794635
If you can find some one local I think they'd do it

>> No.1794652

>>1794541
I wonder if they'd ever put out the service manuals without the watermark

>> No.1794686

>>1794635
>>1794648
thanks, this'll help a lot
wonder if i can get some old vhs boxes and glue some foam spacers inside so the covers will be a better fit
stay awesome, /vr/

>> No.1794747

>>1794686
Universal Covers work better with N64 games. Less dicking around with a dremel and glue. Not CHEAP, about a buck each or so, but there are a buttload of inserts already made for them. People sell printed inserts on the evilbay all the time, to save you the hassle of finding a printer to do it for you.

>> No.1794781

>>1794747
y'know call me retarded but i have never seen these cases before, that is fucking awesome, thanks

>> No.1794909

>>1794781
http://www.mediashelving.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=W&Product_Code=USCG

There we go.

>> No.1794921

And here's an example of a cover made or modified for use with these cases. Of course, not every game has them...

http://www.thecoverproject.net/view.php?cover_id=11353

>> No.1794927

>>1794909
holy christ 59c per case
the help just keeps coming
do you want me to cry
is that what you want /vr/

>> No.1794938
File: 213 KB, 1037x778, DSC00248.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1794938

I know this has nothing to do with modding or repairs, but I heard a rumor from a friend that certain models of the GBASP has a more crisp screen and more pronounced colors. Is this true, and if it is, which model is it?

I wanted to mod a frontlight into my GBC, but it would be cheaper and more practical to just get an SP, I really like the NES themed one.

>> No.1794954

>>1794938
its the AGB 101 you're talking about. It does exist

Normal SPs have a model number 001.

>> No.1794971

>>1794927
I'll admit that I'm in a PERMANENTLY SHITTY MOOD, but /vr/ is largely helpful and friendly, especially after.... certain boards go night-night after a hard day of poopy-posting.

I'd consider getting those cases myself, but I can't motivate myself to buy a decent printer, and I don't have too many games that these cases would suit.

>> No.1794976

>>1794938
Also unrelated, but I would kill for a pokemon GBC. Did you get that when it came out or did you buy it used?
If used, how much was it?

>> No.1794980

>>1794938
Don't get that nes sp, it doesn't have the screen you are looking for.

>> No.1794982

>>1794976

Yep, I got it and yellow as a birthday present from my grandmother long ago. I've lost yellow over the years from moving though...

>> No.1794986

>>1794954
>>1794980

thanks guys

>> No.1795175

>>1794927
It actually used to be 42c up until maybe a year ago; Still one hell of deal.

That doesn't include the freight shipping charges of course.

>> No.1795421
File: 486 KB, 902x1319, IMG_0726.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1795421

I've got this game boy pocket and I intend to restore it, my only concern so far it's that the power switch its pretty loose, there's no "click" when you turn it on, it just slides and it has problems staying on because the slightest tilt will move the switch and turn it off.

Is there any way to desolder and open the switch to see what's wrong? Any ideas of what could this be?

Also apparently this version didn't had the power led, what kind of led should I install on it?

>> No.1795479
File: 7 KB, 609x314, switch.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1795479

>>1795421
Wild guess (and some inkscape practice for myself.) The power switch has a little point like the illustration, which rests opposing pits corresponding to on/off settings. The spring to hold it in place is just an area of the plastic that has been cut out.
Part of the circled area in the mechanism probably broke.

>> No.1795483

>>1795479
what type of switch is this called? I have a GBA SP with the same issue

>> No.1795490

>>1795483
No idea. Reason I drew it is because I didn't know what to search for.

>> No.1795562

Thinking of prototyping some PCBs but I don't know what company to go with or what software would be good for a beginner

>> No.1795824

>>1795483
Probably a micro-mini slide switch. Dunno the dimensions of the part to be replaced, because I've not yet had a GB with power issues.

>> No.1795979

>>1795483
>>1795421
Actually power switch is just slider(or at least gbc and gba:sp it so), plastic part does the "click" effect and makes it stay on/at one place, so if its loose then you need to replace plastic part, or put something in-between so it doesn't come loose while playing.

So open it up and see if "switch" itself is cracked or something before you desolder it, if its just that then just replace it or try find a way to make it less loose.

>> No.1796043 [DELETED] 

>>1781957
hope this is b8

>> No.1797956

Would anyone happen to know how to fix the rumble in a Pokemon Pinball gameboy game?

>> No.1798067
File: 438 KB, 640x480, 7800.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1798067

Could anyone help me out with a 7800 problem? It self-resets while playing 7800 games and won't play 2600 games at all.

The webm is of my 7800 when I try to play Ms. Pac-Man. The ATARI logo on the BIOS screen has this weird colored bar covering the letters (or is it supposed to look that way?), but the Ms. Pac-Man screen looks normal, as do the graphics in all the other games I tried. When I press a button on the controller, the game starts, but then instantly resets to the title screen. I do this a few times in the webm.

All the games self-reset except for one, Centipede. Pole Position II resets after a few minutes. Not a single 2600 game works, and I've tried 20+, which all work well with my 2600. I've cleaned everything thoroughly. I looked for shorted connections between the outer cartridge slot pins not used by 2600 carts as suggested on some forum, but that was not the issue. How can I track down the problem?

>> No.1798094

>>1798067
I'm just tossing a guess out there, but I'd check the reset switch and trace back from that.

I would imagine that the 7800 might have separate hardware for the 2600 games. I'd check to see if anything on that side is loose or damaged

>> No.1798318

>>1795562
bumping my question

>> No.1799340
File: 74 KB, 1157x656, large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1799340

Anyone actually try this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnxZIuYb9WU

>> No.1799365

>>1799340
I haven't cleaned NES pins that way, but I have cleaned firearms parts by boiling them. My main concern though would be the plastic possibly being affected by boiling it.

>> No.1799375

I am repairing a GameBoy original, and was doing well untill i went to turn it on once and it just died, (Not batteries) And help?

>> No.1799434

>>1799340
Supposed to use a double boiler setup to keep the plastic from touching the metal that is touching the heat source.

>> No.1800114
File: 57 KB, 1123x1135, SNES_Videopaths.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1800114

The 1Chip SNES outputs a way superior RGB picture than the older revisions.
I think i know why.
The early SNES used a amp which is feed to the MultiAV connector and to the encoder separately, you see that it consists of multiple bipolar transistors. And the older encoders only output Composite and S-Video which also need amplifiers.
The later models contain a modern encoder which also outputs amplified RGB, so they just used a PNP transistor because the video output of the PPU seems to be a voltage sink (but it could be another reason, or i'm wrong).
The 1Chip is very simple as the RGB output is a voltage source connected to 160ohms to ground and that's it.

I think that these transistors might be the reason why the RGB picture is slightly blurry compared to the 1chip, as bipolar transistors have a tiny parasitic capacitance which define the maximum switching frequency.

So i'm going do a experiment of installing a THS7314 (high quality RGB amp as single chip) and bypassing that transistor amps in my early PAL SNES.
The motivation behind this is that i see some chroma interference on the red channel and it's not caused by the high quality cable i made myself, so if i'm going to check the internals of my SNES then why not try this out to see if there are any improvements.

Does anyone here has other ideas or suggestions?

I didn't ordered the THS7314 yet, so don't expect it to happen within the next 2 weeks.

>> No.1800713

I have a question.

How do I port Famicom disk games to NES cartridges?

>> No.1800941

>>1800713

I don't think that's possible, really. FDS games ask you to flip the disk every now and then, so unless you have a way to tell the NES that you did that then you're shit outta luck.

>> No.1801740

>>1800941
Well, games like Zelda 1, Mario 2, etc, were ports, so there obviously is a way.

>> No.1801776

>>1801740
If you have the source code for the game you can of course port it, however if you're just working with a ROM file there'll be a lot more work involved. Though I know it can be possible cause someone has ported Doki Doki Panic from FDS to NES using mapper 103 I believe, however I dunno if it'd be possible with every FDS game out there.

>> No.1801835

Does anyone here know anything about the GBASP? It fell off my desk and onto my hard wood floor and now it won't turn on.

>> No.1801856

I have a Sega Genesis question

I recapped a model 2 as a project (VA1) and it still doesn't work

I put in some new 220uF caps and it showed some signs of life but a full recapping didn't bring it back.

When I turn it on I get the TMSS splash screen about 25% of the time. The other times it doesn't show up at all. It also never boots any game fully.

I was wondering what might be causing this and where to look.

I even replaced the rather hard to get at 7805 voltage regulator and still the same problem persists

>> No.1801862

>>1801835
It probably broke.

>> No.1801871

>>1801862
so does mean...

gbasp is kill?

>> No.1801875

>>1801871
You might have knocked something loose inside.

I'd open it up and see

>> No.1801882

>>1801875
I already did and everything seems to be in the right place when I compare it to my non-broken one.

>> No.1801887

>>1801875
It still charges though, so I think the problem might be that the power switch broked on the inside.

>> No.1801903

>>1801887
Try jumping it then.

>> No.1801913
File: 47 KB, 629x349, birdwhat.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1801913

>>1801903

>> No.1801925

>>1801913
If you jump the switch it might turn on

Then you'd know it's the switch

>> No.1801927

>>1801925
Alright so I placed my gbasp on the pavement outside, broke out my trusty old skateboard, proceeded to bunny hop terribly over my gbasp while practically shitting myself out of fear of crushing it, and after almost obliterating it with my back wheel, I can confirm that "jumping it" does not work.

>> No.1801931

>>1801913
When you slide a switch, it bridges two contacts.

What you want to do is bridge these on the back side of the switch, where it is soldered to the board.
A bypass of this type is referred to as jumping.

>> No.1801946

>>1801931
I don't think I can do that on a gbasp. It's very small and also the entire switch is enclosed.

>> No.1801963

>>1801946
I haven't looked at any of mine in a while, but I'm pretty sure the legs of the switch stick out of the housing a bit.

I also can't find any of mine to check.

>> No.1801993

>>1801963
There's four legs sticking out.

Which ones do I connect?

>> No.1802013
File: 63 KB, 310x386, SNESVerticalLine.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1802013

>>1800114
There's still some weird oddities about RGB on SNES's. I have a 1CHIP North American SNES and a pre-1CHIP Japanese Sufami and I really can't tell the difference between the two except that the vertical line problem is slightly less prominent on the Sufami. I don't have any PAL consoles to put them up against.

>> No.1802053

>>1801993
I honestly don't remember.

I haven't had a reason to take one apart in a while, and they've never had power problems, so I'm not too familiar with the switch layout.

>> No.1802068

I thought I found a guide for the gbasp power switch, but turns out the faggot is only replacing the plastic bit that goes on the power switch. I don't think I'm going to be able to replace or fix it, but I'm going to assume that is what the problem is because it still charges.

>> No.1802092

>>1802068
>>1802053
I looked at a picture of the board, and it looks like the legs labeled C1 and C2 are on the same trace. Point one is on the side labeled off, and point 2 is on the on side. Try jumping point 2 to either of the C points.

>> No.1802097

anyone here know how to repair a SNES cart? I have a game that gets all kinds of sprite glitches after playing for a little bit. I tried cleaning the contacts, no luck.

After not playing for a while, it will work for a bit and then start glitching out again.

any idea what might be causing this? I can take pics of the pcb if that helps

>> No.1802106

>>1802092
Alright, so what do I use to jump it?

>> No.1802107

>>1802097
Pictures always help

>> No.1802117

>>1802106
Something metal.

I usually use the piece of solder I have cut.

>> No.1802123

>>1802117
I usually use two screwdrivers with small jumper cables attached to both, but this is far too small for any of my current methods.

Seriously, this shit is tiny.

>> No.1802125

>>1801856
I consulted the manual and it looks like the TMSS is in the combination chip they have.

I am going to try and re flow the solder to see if that's the problem

>> No.1802146
File: 1.19 MB, 1000x563, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1802146

>>1802117
Seriously look at this.

>> No.1802148

>>1802123
Yeah it is.

I don't envy you if you're looking to have to replace that switch, and I most commonly replace game card readers in the DS and 3DS.

By the way please don't use a cotton swab to clean those, you're only going to mangle the pins in them. This is the number one reason I've seen for their failure.

>> No.1802152

>>1802107
will do soon.

>> No.1802168
File: 516 KB, 679x363, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1802168

>>1802148
Here's it cropped and flipped.

So I just gotta somehow connect C2 to 2 and if that doesn't work then C1 to 2, all without burning myself.

I might just spend $15 on another SP and swap the shell.

>> No.1802184

>>1802168
>all without burning myself.

Well you don't need to be soldering it, this is just getting continuity beyond the switch to see if it turns on.

>> No.1802215

>>1802184
I don't into electronics at all.

>> No.1802281

>>1802215
Connect point A to point B

>> No.1803340

>>1799340
Yea it's delicious.

>> No.1803360

>>1802281
i installed a mini switch into my ds lite after the stock switch broke.

i cna't remember the points, but it's just connecting one of the pins to ground to power it up. maybe i'll snap a pic when i get home

>> No.1803545

>>1802013
I believe that this is a NTSC thing. I had used like 3 early PAL SNES with RGB, i never saw it and i just checked again with turned up brightness and contrast settings.
This vertical bar is caused by the DRAM refresh which happens in the middle of each visible scanline, during that period it draw a lot of current.
Maybe the power circuits of the NTSC consoles just suck, as the PAL SNES is designed to take AC and it contains a huge capacitor.
On NTSC it's in the power supply as it outputs DC.

>> No.1804289

>>1803545
I know that problem is most prominent in early North American SNES's. The early Sufami's and all NTSC 1CHIP SNES's aren't anywhere near as bad. I honestly have to be looking for it to see it on my consoles.

On the topic of AC adapters, do you know what was up with North American NES's and PAL SNES's having AC-AC power adapters when pretty much every other system used AC-DC adapters? Or are AC-AC adapters pretty common in PAL territories?

>> No.1804402

Hey guys Britfag here.

I need a new plug for my PAL slim Psone. (SCPH-102)

Looking on Ebay there are a few available but they all say SCPH-115 on the plug. Does this matter, or will it still work fine with my model number?

>> No.1804416

>>1804402

Never mind, I believe that's just the plugs model number not relating to the console.

>> No.1804420

>>1804402
As long as the input and output voltages meet the requirements, you're good.

>>1804416
Ah. Incidentally, the US version I had in a bag behind me is SCPH-113.

>> No.1804456

>>1802125
Although searching around says the system is fine and its the game. I doubt that, considering it works on every other Genesis I play it on

>> No.1804525

Where can I get a new shell/case for my playstation?

>> No.1804575

>>1804289
No, i don't exactly know why they decided that. But i think it's the same reason why they require different video cables.

>> No.1804610

>>1804525
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281391477053

Only one I can find on eBay. The shipping will likely be murder, and it will take some dremel work to cut out the expansion port and RCA ports if you're popping a first-run PSX into it.

>> No.1805140

>>1804525
You'll probably have better luck buying one that doesn't work, but is in good cosmetic condition.

>> No.1806328

>>1788703
I have exactly the same problem and cleaning the contacts doesn't work. No signs of a damaged cable so it must be something related to the wiring inside the cable itself?

>> No.1806367

Good afternoon to everyone.

I was wondering if anyone here has ever tried to fix a scratched gbc front plastic screen. They tend to accumulate a lot of small risks overtime. Is there anyway of a good refurbishing or should i just order a cheap new one from some chinese site?

>> No.1806381

>>1806367
Good morning from here.

The only way I can think of to take out scratches from a Game Boy plastic screen is to use a light abrasive like toothpaste and buffer them out. Otherwise, I think you'll need to just get a new screen.

>> No.1806395

>>1806381
yeah, i have tried toothpast from a recomendation on some forum, and while i can say there might have been some slight improvement, it still is far from good. i did remenber of those products that are used to remove some scratch marks from cars. would that work on plastic?

>> No.1808257

>>1806395
No, they won't work

You need to get a new screen cover if you want it to look like new

>> No.1808354

Alright guys, I got a PS1 out of a yard sale in great quality, with 2 controllers and a memory card. Everything on it works fine.

But it won't start playing games. It always goes into the empty tray startup screen. I think this is because the tray cover is misaligned, as it looks a little off, and I'm assuming it isn't touching whatever trigger tells it to start reading the disc.

Does anyone know what to do with this? I'm not really afraid of busting up the tray cover trying to line it back up, considering I got this thing for literally ten dollars and the tray cover is just plastic, nothing internal, but I figured I'd ask first before I start taking things apart.

>> No.1808407

>>1808354
Pressss the button..... inside the tray.....

>> No.1808413

>>1808407
it DOESN'T WORK anon....

>> No.1808479

>>1808413
Then the laser is likely dead.

$10.

eBay.

Get the right variant, or you'll be wasting time and money.

>> No.1808505

>>1808479
From what I've looked up online, the game will start reading a disc when the laser is dead, but then crash to the menu when it can't read.

This isn't even SPINNING the disc. It isn't doing anything to in any way acknowledge that their is a disc inserted.

>> No.1808528

>>1808505
Then it's time to buy a PSX that fucking works, and if you can be assed, swap parts until you find what's fucked, then replace that part.

>> No.1808540

>>1808528
>being passive aggressive to someone looking for help
Well fuck you too, asshole. I had assumed this was the thread for people who knew how to repair and mod consoles, since that's what the fucking OP says, but apparently you don't know what's wrong with it anymore than I do and you're just being a fuckstick.

>> No.1808550

>>1808540
The first rule of technical troubleshooting is to replace suspected bad with known good. Now stop being a twat. You don't have any fucking spare parts, and it's impossible to tell what's broken if everything is NO GO and you have no GO hardware to compare it with!

THIS is why I don't make how-to videos. Everyone wants to be spoonfed, just so they can complain about the goddamn taste.

>> No.1808560
File: 1.73 MB, 2200x2300, Model2_va1_motherboard.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1808560

>>1804456
I've noticed something when I went back and looked at the Sega Genesis 2 I am working on is missing a surface mounted captor (C52)

its 0.022uf. Yikes, what a small cap.

I hate to ask such a dumb question but would a cap that small really make a huge difference and make the system not work?

>> No.1808598

>>1808560
You have the technical know-how to replace a capacitor on a PCB but you don't have the technical know-how to answer your own question?

Of course it will make it not work, it breaks the fucking circuit.

>> No.1808601

>>1808598
I've seen weird things man with electronics

Xbox's working without surface mounted resistors and capacitors booting up fine and playing.

>> No.1808768

I did an RGB mod to my SNES JR. and the quality of the picture is outstanding, but I have noticed this very subtle weird ghost-like image that appears near every sprite that is moving, I notice it most in the world map of mario world with the walking mario sprite that appears on the upper-left corner, its like a very faint ghostly duplication of the sprite.

Is this normal? if not, what could be causing it?

It's not really noticeable but still I know it's there and it bugs me.

>> No.1808795
File: 85 KB, 1024x713, ps1open.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1808795

>>1808354
Ok I've dealt with many laser dead PS1's and I've stumbled with these variants:

1 - The disc spins but the ps1 won't even try for more than 1 second and then stop spinning then it will go to the menu screen. This usually means the lens it's dead beyond calibration.

2 - The disc spins and the lens move side to side a couple of times, then it would give up, stop spinning and go to the menu screen. In these cases you can probable calibrate the lens and get it working again.

3 - The disc won't even spin at all, this happened in two occasions, the first time was because the ribbon of the lens wasn't well connected, and the second time was because the ribbon was straight broken in two parts. Needless to say, you need a whole new lens for these situations.

Also you can check if the button inside the tray isn't broken and not pushing the real button on the inside of the ps1, I mean, it could happen.

Looks like you're gonna have to open it anon.

>> No.1808860

>>1808795
Yeah, I've already broken down on that point. I'm hoping something has just come unplugged, since I don't want to wait for the new optical drive to come in.

But, on a positive note, I don't THINK the laser's dead, just the motor at most. The guy who sold it to me wasn't trying to scam me or anything pretty clearly, so I doubt he purposely sold me a broken console.

Also, it's a SCPH-1001 model, which apparently are a little more rare and an earlier model, so that's another positive about it.

>> No.1809067

>>1808860
Well, I've seen stranger things than tan a disc drive pulling a ribbon cable loose. Check for that, or any damage.

>> No.1809679

Hi /vr/, I got a problem with my N64, it turns on but I have no image on the tv, nothing at all, there's no signal, no sound.
I have no tool to open it, is it possible that my problem comes from the jumper pack?

Thanks guys

>> No.1809685

>>1809679
>is it possible that my problem comes from the jumper pack?
Yes, termination on rambus is required for the operation of the CPU.

>> No.1810016

>>1798067
Bumping my question about the 7800.

Could someone at least tell me if the Atari logo is supposed to look like that (with the colored bar covering ATARI)?

>> No.1810136

I need help, I bought a Super Nintendo from some guy at a flea market. It looked really good but it had to have been left out for a while, It was wrapped in wrap so I thought nothing of it. I needed a game so I bought Super Mario World. I brought it back to the house and I did not clean it yet but I inserted the game and I get a white screen with the nintendo chime following a sound effect as if you threw a fireball. I am going to clean it with the specs given on this thread but I want to know if it could be the system is ultimately done. Need some help ASAP please.

>> No.1810231

>>1810136
If the system was done you wouldn't get any picture or sound at all.

Just clean the cartridge and the cartridge slot, that should do the trick.

>> No.1810381

>>1809685
Wait, what ?
You mean that I must try with anexpansion pack to see if that works or not I guess ? And if it doesn't work?
Thanks

>> No.1810560

>>1809067
Update:
opened her up today, no cable problems or anything. After some research I've decided it's best to just grab a new optical array.

The model for the broken one is KSM 440 ACM. From what I've found those go for about twenty bucks online. But I've seen some cheaper other models. Does it matter what kind I get? I assume some were made for the Slim console, but does that mean they won't fit this one?

>> No.1810610

>>1810560
As long as you don't get a PSOne optical drive you should be fine.

>> No.1810620

>>1810610
Alright, thanks

>> No.1811751

>>1810231
I cleaned it, and the same thing happens, I guess I am gonna buy a shitty game at the local retro store and test it if it is either the game or the actual system itself. Here is hoping...

>> No.1811995

>>1810016
No, I don't believe so

>> No.1813121
File: 306 KB, 1503x1038, turbo1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813121

I snagged a Turbo Grafx16 super cheap that has a 'video problem'

These pictures are from the seller through RF. I thought I'd ask you guys if you know what's up. I haven't gotten the system yet, I'll be doing an AV Mod so maybe that'll fix it. Perhaps it's just a bad RF cable or a the seller's TV is shit, I don't know.

Anyways, 1/2

>> No.1813124
File: 237 KB, 1333x1047, turbo2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1813124

>>1813121
2/2

I'm happy either way, 36 bucks with a controller and some shit game.

>> No.1813165

>>1797956
...replace the battery? It has a little place on the actual cartridge to put a AAA battery if I recall and that activates the rumble

>> No.1814921

>>1813124
>>1813121
Seems to be some sort of sync problem

>> No.1816770

bump

>> No.1817162

Is there a reliable way to repair worn-down gold contacts?

>> No.1817247

>>1813121
i would get a tg16 cd base (cd unit optional) as it will allow for a/v out without modding AND offers internal saves for games that support it (not just cd games)

even if you don't get the cd unit itself you can easily upgrade without needing to replace previously purchased hardware.

>> No.1817303

>>1813124
whats the games name? perhaps it is better than you realize due to the sync issues.

>> No.1818067

Has anyone ever gotten their hands on a Nintendo service manual? Like ever?

I know there are Sega manuals that go over each part.

>> No.1818639

>>1810560
This guy here again

Is there a significant chance of the grey power source cable that connects to the optical array being dead or damaged?

I'm just feeling a bit paranoid. I haven't gotten the new optics array in yet and I'm fairly certain once I get the new part in everything should work fine, but I'm just wondering if there's any other common problems with the optical array and such I should know about.

>> No.1818740

What's the average pot value for a Samsung Dreamcast? Mine reads everything I throw at it at 610 ohms, and this is sort of close to the value most people report online, but there's also a lot of peeps talking of readings in the thousands.

>> No.1820076

>>1814921
>>1817247
thanks for the info, it came in today so maybe tonight i'll open the fudger up and do the typical clean before i start really troubleshooting
>>1817303
i imagine it's the game it came with, keith courage

can i assume an NES RF modulator will work with the RF out of the tg16?

>> No.1822453
File: 2.32 MB, 2448x3264, 20140730_2251161.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822453

hey there
I have this old SNES I got from a local game store about 2 years ago, and it has worked perfectly up until now. I just picked up Mario RPG, popped it in and the sound is shit. Only a few sound effects and like half of the music come through, and then there's some bad sound effects happening when they shouldn't.

1) It isn't the game, as I found this happens on other games that didn't previously have this problem
2) It's not the cord, I tested it on my N64 and it's fine, I even tried a new one as well
3) It isn't the AV output, because it happens on the coax output as well
4) I've cleaned up the board inside to the best of my ability and cleaned the contacts as best I could, still nothing

Has anyone else had this problem, or could provide any insight? I'd really like to get this thing up and running. Google didn't help a whole lot.

I did notice a few missing parts, but I don't think they're crucial as it has worked fine for the past 2 years. It's a newer model of the SNES, so I assume they just removed some parts that weren't completely necessary. Either that or the guy before me decided that those parts needed to go.

I'm attaching some pictures of the board. Thanks guys

>> No.1822461
File: 2.17 MB, 3264x2448, 20140730_225132.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822461

this is where the audio chips are

>> No.1822468
File: 2.17 MB, 2448x3264, 20140730_225505.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1822468

backside of the board
It's a 1995 model, by the way

>> No.1822614

>>1813121
>>1813124
>>1820076
i got the thing apart. loved the soldered in rf shielding.

looks clean, all the caps look fine (although i'll probably replace if i can't get this thing working)

tapping the composite video out from the ext port i get a solid light blue screen, no audio.

using the NES RF modulator i get nothing..

perhaps the game it came with is bad? any ideas you magnificent bastards?

>> No.1823610
File: 32 KB, 450x600, 1389603423083.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1823610

Guys, do someone here have a trusty guide to recalibrate the Dreamcast laser pot? because it seems it just can't read the second section of some games (almost every game works 100%)

Thanks in advance

>> No.1824175
File: 6 KB, 300x212, cdx.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824175

I recently bought a Sega CDX off ebay that did not come with anything, just the bare console. Will using a Genesis Model 2 AC adapter work on it? I've heard stories ranging from yes to it's cause the cd portion to wear down over time.

Also as a bonus question, will it work with a Genesis Model 2 AV cable?

>> No.1824690

>>1824175
I've owned a Sega CDX for 10+ years, and I've only ever used model 2 adapters (both AC and video), without any problems.

>> No.1824807
File: 742 KB, 1990x1118, RGBFuck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1824807

Any guesses on why I get an impossibly dark image? Composite still works fine.

>> No.1824915

>>1824807
Use less aggressive resistors?

>> No.1824925

>>1824915
They're only 75ohm; It should be brighter than normal.

I'm wondering if the amp could be at fault. Should there be continuity between RGB in and out (when powered off)?

Could it be the capacitor between ground and 5v?

I'm thinking about running from the built in RGB amp, but this alone took me several hours.

>> No.1824935

I've got a Genesis 2 that is basically not worth selling at all.
Would, say, an s-video mod be simple?

>> No.1825002

>>1824925
My really limited experience with ICs is that they work, or they don't. Seems like yours is working, but you're just not getting a very bright picture.

What you're doing looks remarkably similar to this, no? http://www.retrorgb.com/snesminirgbmod.html

A suggestion to address a dark picture is to step down to 33 ohm resistors.

It's finest "guy from the internet" type advice, but it's the best I can offer.

>> No.1825008

>>1825002
That's the exactly what I'm following. I'm beginning to think it might not be getting power, and what's showing on the screen is the result of the composite video sync.

I'm going to try running a single wire+resistor from the built in encoder and see if I can at least get 1 color out.

>> No.1825026

>>1825008
And that confirms it. With all three lines snipped, I still get the same image, and with the blue line from S-RGB A jumped to the multi av, I get a blue only image that's actually visible.

The only question now is, is amp dead or not; I have continuity from the PPU's R,G, and B legs to the legs on the ths7314 as well as from 5v on the multi av to its paired leg, so I know it's not a soldering problem.

I suppose it's possible that it got heat damage while I was trying to tin its legs. I wonder if snipping the capacitor leg could give some results.

>> No.1825562
File: 108 KB, 400x680, svideocxa1145mpsmall[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1825562

>>1824935
it's super easy, order the parts and some perf board.

>> No.1825563 [DELETED] 

If you guys were REAL pimps you would just throw the console out and buy a new one.

>> No.1825580

My Sega Saturn will freeze quite a lot. After some googling I found out that it is because the switch that detects whether the lid is open or closed is buggered.

It was suggested that I put some cable tie around it to hold it closed but this didn't work consistently.
How can I secure it into the closed position cheaply?
Bluetack?

>> No.1825587

>>1825580
Duct Tape

>> No.1825914

>>1825580
It's a leaf switch. Check the solder points where it is connected to the board and see if anything had broken loose. Also, if the contact point for the switch is visible, check it for obstructions or crud.

>> No.1826095
File: 1.77 MB, 1439x1080, Untitled-1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826095

Hey i wondering if anyone could give some insite on my problem, I have an NES Satelite with two problems,
A: the receiver connected to the console wont turn on(or atleast the power led doesnt come on) and
B: even after cleaning out the corrosion from the battery bay the transmitter also wont turn on.
Heres a pic of the receiver:

>> No.1826107
File: 2.05 MB, 1442x1080, Untitled-2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1826107

>>1826095
And here's a pic of the transmitter:

>> No.1826457

Sup /vr/

I'm really stupid and have a relatively common problem with my PAL Mega Drive model 1. The image comes out as static but the sound is working perfectly over stereo, and as I'm using an RF cable I'm guessing the problem is with the cable.

Is their anything I can do other than buying a new RF cable? From what I can gather the system and the game are working fine

>> No.1827172
File: 1.48 MB, 3200x2368, label smear.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1827172

Okay guys, I tested my rubbing alcohol on a shitty who-cares cart (Anticipation for NES), practically soaked the thing in it, rubbed it all over the label, to make sure it wouldn't ruin labels. It didn't appear to.

Today, I just did this to an otherwise totally fine Yoshi's Island label. Lifted the goddamn ink right off it.

What should I be using to clean labels and plastic surfaces instead? I'm pretty sure windex did the same thing to my Blast Corps cart.

>> No.1827184

>>1826457
have you tried tuning the tv?

note that the tv channels and the channel indicated on the rf adapter might not correlate

>> No.1827214

>>1781957
have fun mounting the chip elsewhere and running wires instead...

>> No.1827219

>>1827172
IIRC, earlier snes labels used the same lamination as the older nes labels, but then at some point in the snes' lifecycle they switched to cheaper labels, like the ones found on n64 carts.

To be on the safe side, I never use any sort of solvent on a label. When I can I try to just pick any grim or residue off with my fingernail (very carefully), I've also had some success using a tiny amount of water on a q-tip (although this will rub the ink off eventually).

As for cleaning the plastic, alcohol should be harmless, I've heard good things about goo-gone for getting rid of sticker residue, and magic erasers work wonders on permanent marker (make sure its wet enough so it doesnt wear down the plastic)

>> No.1827232

>>1822614
>tapping the composite video out from the ext port i get a solid light blue screen, no audio.
could be a bad game/dirty connectors

the original poster images imo could be a result of the tv not being tuned perfectly to the rf adapter

>> No.1827271

>>1827219
I use dry-erase to lift marker, works great. Requires a bit of elbow grease.

Sad to hear that the answer to "how do I clean dirty labels safely" is "you can't"

>> No.1828432

>>1827219
>at some point in the snes' lifecycle they switched to cheaper labels
I would pinpoint that between 95/96.

Also interesting is that 1994 they fixed the yellowing issues on their carts.
And later on the consoles which are internally labeled as 1chip.

>> No.1829209

>>1826107
Make sure the power button is getting power then check the continuity of the button.

>> No.1829675

>>1827271
I use goo gone and it usually works very well.

>> No.1829816

I've noticed my SNES mini has a lot more baseline noise than my original SNES. Is there anyway to minimize or fix this?

>> No.1830070

>>1825562
That's only if you have the Sony encoder right?

>> No.1830076

>>1826095
>>1826107
Pro tip.

Digital cameras can see IR flashes. Plug a controller into it and turn it on and start pushing buttons while looking at the IR transmitter and see if there's flashing when you push a button

If there is, then there's a good chance its working.

>> No.1830449

What size Torx would I need to open up an N64's security screws?

>> No.1831024

>>1830449
Console itself, 4,5mm
cart's, 3,5mm

>> No.1831718

I just pulled the 72 pin connector out of my old front load NES and one of the bottom middle connectors that goes onto the main board has some green corrosion on it.

Everything else is fine and a nice shiny silver. Is this salvageable or should I just buy a replacement?

>> No.1832423

>>1808795
Hi, my PS1 laser is in the second category.

Can you point me to some calibration tutorial? Its the 9001 model

>> No.1832859

>>1831718
You can try scraping it off. Don't use any chemicals as that will peal the plating off the pins

Usually a medium hardness toothbrush and some 90% alcohol will take most off.

>> No.1834390

bump

>> No.1835062
File: 157 KB, 1024x788, 1024px-PlayStation-Model-Backs.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835062

I recently bought a Playstation 1, the model from 97. The problem is that it skips the FMV and audio tracks most of the time. I already cleaned the lens and tried other games. It skips while playing Tony Hawk 1 but the disc has some scratches, ok that is understandable. But I have a copy of MGS1 from the essential collection-practically new-and it skips anyway.

Is there a mechanical factor here?


TL;DR: My ps1 gets lazy while reading discs and starts skipping.

How can I fix this?

>> No.1835075

>>1835062
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStation_models
Look at the list. The early models had that problem. They fixed that later on.

>> No.1835090

>>1835075
I see, well at least I can play. Do you happen to know also why does the PS menu does not display any of the memory card data, while in games it does save and load, anon?

>> No.1835092
File: 2.32 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_0001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835092

When I was 8 I thought this was cool. How do I clean this shit off? It's paint marker I think.

>> No.1835095

>>1835092
I tried nail polish to erase a name on a psx controller, but im not sure if it damages the plastic.

>> No.1835104

>>1835062
Install a replacement CD unit.They are cheap. I took one from a newer model for my old PSX with RCA outs and parallel port, which had the same problem.

>> No.1835108

>>1835095
NAIL POLISH REMOVER (ACETONE)


My bad.

>> No.1835116

>>1835090
That`s weird. Sometimes multibank cards don`t show up correctly in the menu, but original cards should.You could try and format a card.
Some games had an option to format cards.

>> No.1835124

>>1835116
It is an original memory card. I will make a copy of the files on a ps2 card and then try to format the ps1 card and see how it goes.

>> No.1835128

>>1835116
Oh and try to clean the contacts on the card with a q-tip and alcohol and let it dry before inserting them again. And try another card. Maybe it`s just broken. Third party cards can be not very reliable I figured out after years.

>> No.1835136

>>1835092
Isopropyl alcohol is great, and it's not abrasive.

The smell alone gets you high as balls though. I love it.

>> No.1835141

>>1835095
>>1835136
Thanks, I'll give that a shot

>> No.1835143

>>1835092
The part with blue marker on it looks actually kind of neat since it goes well with the colour scheme. Maybe a more professional modding attempt in case you can't remove it with a solvent would be in order.

>> No.1835179

>>1835128
Nope, I have no idea what is happening but at least I can save and load in game.

>> No.1835306

>>1835062
Anon, you can buy a new disc reader for ten to fifteen dollars online of a later model number, and opening up and replacing it requires just removing 6 standard screws and unplugging the motor power cord and the cable. The piece itself slides right off 3 metal rods and you can slide a brand new one right in.

>> No.1835308

>>1831024
Was looking for the console's, thanks.

>> No.1835590
File: 63 KB, 600x450, asdasdasdasd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835590

>>1832423
Sure, you can use this one

http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html

I didn't used a voltage reader (because I don't have one), I just marked the initial point with a sharpie and started moving the screw slightly to one or another side, if I saw it was trying more than normal it means that was the correct side, if the disc stop trying that means it was the wrong side, I kept going into the correct side until it started reading the disc again and won't take too long to load the game.

That screw is very, very sensitive, you don't need to screw it too much to notice a change.

>> No.1835598

>>1835095
>>1835108
>>1835141
Nope nope nope NOPE

It definitely damages the plastic, I tried once on a NES which had some shitty paint marker and it consumed the plastic, now it looks like I dropped some acid there.

You're gonna have to use alcohol or goo gone and wipe badly because that shit takes its time to remove marker ink.

>> No.1835863

>>1835590
I just did it before reading this, thanks anyway

I tried using a multimeter, they way some guy on yt showed, but I couldn't get a reading. So i moved the shit all over the place, then back to its original place and 1/8.

Tried, read cds great except some green cds. Move it some more now it reads everything. Tomorrow Im buying a memory card

>> No.1835879
File: 2.94 MB, 640x360, 1405747220526.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1835879

>>1835863
Well I'm glad it worked anon.

>> No.1836070

>>1835879
Well after 4 hours of playing its refusing to read again.

Does heat has something to do with this?

>> No.1836072

>>1836070
You most likely burned it out

>> No.1836079

>>1836072
Will it work tomorrow?

>> No.1836102

>>1836079
Are you playing burned games? if that's the case then yes, my ps1 would heat up and refuse to read burned discs until it cooled down.

>> No.1836117

>>1836102
Yes they are the only ones I have. I tested all my 30 games and it worked great.

Maybe its the modchip that gets hot or something. Buying that mc then and finally playing some games.

>> No.1836125

>>1836079
As in, when you adjust the laser for more power you burn it out faster.

Turning it too far and it will die in no time

So no, it most likely won't work tomorrow

>> No.1836140

>>1836125
It was about 1/8th of rotation

>> No.1836167

>>1836117
>Maybe its the modchip that gets hot or something

Yep, that's exactly what happens.

>> No.1836493

>>1830076
Ho shit thats actually an awesome pro-tip,
Thanks a lot!!!

>> No.1836826

>>1836140
That may have been too much. Turning it just a hair is usually enough to see a difference.

>> No.1837535
File: 68 KB, 720x480, 1402533296451.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1837535

>Get an NES from a yard sale
>Incredibly dirty, guy I bought it from got it out of a storage unit
>Said it works
>Was pretty nice so I took his word for it
>Clean it up really nicely and test it
>Games won't play, screen and LED light flashes
>"Okay, must be an issue with the 72-pin connector then"
>Order a new connector from Ebay
>Arrived today
>Take apart the NES
>Heat shield is rusted
>Take off the cartridge bay
>Motherboard is completely rusted and corroded
>The old 72-pin connector is actually fine is identical to the new one

Guess it's my fault for not taking it apart before ordering the new connector, and buying a dirty, shit smelling NES for 10 dollars.

>> No.1837876
File: 522 KB, 816x612, NES10.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1837876

>>1837535
Well at least it do turns on, I have 3 nes that won't even do that. I'm gonna have to recreate the entire rf modulator with new parts.

You can try to clean it with a toothbrush with alcohol...brush it everywhere. And clean the pins where the 72 pin thing is connected, if the pins are corroded then you can sand them a little bit (just a little bit! until they look clean again).

Also you should remove this pin, it will stop the flashing led and screen (but just that, if the cartridge isn't recognized then you will get a solid black (or colored) screen and an unflashing led)

>> No.1837963

Not sure if this is the place to ask, but I figure I might as well.

I just attempted to soft mod my PS2 with free mcboot via the disc swap method with 007: Agent Under Fire. The first time I fucked up the USB and didn't get all the menus, so I added more files to my USB and managed to fix it - all the proper menus are appearing. ESB, ULaunchELF, HD Loader, etc. My biggest problem, however, is that my burned games are not reading at all. They just aren't recognized by the system. Any reason behind this? Have I done something wrong?

I'm burning the isos (which have been patched) at varying speeds (4x, 8x, 1x) onto TDK DVD-Rs single layer. I have used two different isos (Yakuza, Shadow of the Colossus) all at varying burn speeds, both patched and unpatched Isos.

Just not sure what I'm doing wrong or if it is the disc itself. Any troubleshooting would be appreciated.

>> No.1838050

>>1837876
>I'm gonna have to recreate the entire rf modulator with new parts.
Do you really need the RF output? You only really need composite video out, audio out, and power.

>> No.1838056

>>1837963

PS2 can be finicky about what media it reads.

Just confirming - you are burning ESR patched isos and then booting them via ESR loader?

>> No.1838072
File: 1.96 MB, 363x270, 1283982053092.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838072

>>1838050
Well those things are in the rf modulator, but yeah I can omit the rf related stuff.

>> No.1838080

>>1837963
Hmph, mine just sits and stares blankly when I swap to the MCFreeBoot disc from ANY game. Doesn't fail, doesn't load. Since I have two series 7X slims, taping the third switch down is a temporary measure. Electrical tape doesn't have enough tack to hold for more than a few minutes, so I gave up.

>> No.1838081
File: 1.14 MB, 807x720, missing ppu.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838081

So /vr/tualboys, I bought an NES 101 off ebay as is. For whatever reason, somebody yanked off the PPU with a screwdriver or something. Is this fixable or am I screwed?

>> No.1838082
File: 181 KB, 2438x1032, NES-001-Schematic---Power,-AV.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838082

>>1838072
You can pretty much just recreate the essential components on a piece of perfboard if you have to.

Pic related, this should be enough for just power and composite output.

Original schematic was pulled from here:
http://console5.com/techwiki/images/5/58/NES-001-Schematic---Power%2C-AV%2C-RF-Switch.png

>> No.1838087

>>1838081
You can "fix" it if you can find another PPU to drop in its place. The traces look like they're mostly intact, for the ones that aren't you just have to solder a wire from the pin to where the trace goes. It's an incredibly tedious task but it's not impossible.

>> No.1838096

>>1838081
You have three options.

Option 1: Acquire a replacement PPU, install it physically, and use wire to jump its pins to the spots they'd otherwise be connected to with board traces. This requires a donor system. Not optimal.

Option 2: Get a fucking refund and send it back. Optionally, put a cell phone REDACTED in a locked box and send that back instead, then send a text from a pre-designated contact that is set to alert as VIBRATE on the phone, and use the leads to the motor to actuate the REDACTED. This is not legal after the first sentence.

Option 3: Purchase a simple REDACTED Mk. II via private sale with cash. REDACTED and watch his patterns, then when you have the opportunity, put two REDACTED, and never even hint that you did this to anybody. This is definitely not legal.

>> No.1838098

>>1838081
looks like you're gonna need another PPU, its easier to just get another NES, unless you intend to do some RGB related modifications.

>> No.1838105

>>1837876
>Also you should remove this pin

No, you should cut that pin only if you've narrowed the problem down to that chip specifically.

Using it as your first fix is like slapping a band-aid on a stab wound.

>> No.1838107

>>1838082
Wow, that's a lot of stuff left out just for the RF, thanks anon I will definitely use that schematic.

>> No.1838108

>>1838081
No matter what you're going to need either another console or another PPU, the thing is effectively totaled for now.

When this guy finishes his universal PPU you'll be able to salvage it without having to rob another NES

http://www.universalppu.com/?page_id=240

>> No.1838117

>>1838107
Yeah the NES's PPU natively outputs composite video so most of the work was already "done" there, the only thing the NES lacks is an amplifier circuit really. Same deal as the top loader.

>> No.1838123

>>1838108
>>1838098
>>1838096
>>1838087

I do have an extra NES that has a working PPU but I don't really know shit about soldering.

>> No.1838127

>>1838123
Youtube has tons and tons of really good videos on soldering at any level of the task. Just watch a few, practice on junk to get the techniques down, and you'll be an expert in no time.

A fuckup is someone who refuses to study or measure before acting.

>> No.1838135

>>1838123
Personally I would just leave the other NES intact. You don't want to mess with that one if it works already and end up with two messed up consoles. Even if you're good at modding there's always a slight risk involved.

You can always try and ask for a refund but you might get screwed considering how things have already ended up.

>> No.1838146

>>1838127
Good idea. I'll get some tools and start practicing. Any ideas on some good starter project to hone my skills?

>>1838135
I have two working toasters that I got for free so If I fuck up one of them attempting to fix a top loader I won't be too upset.

>> No.1838167

>>1838146
Find a piece of trashed board from something with NO HOPE of repair, and practice removing and reinserting components.

>> No.1838219

Quick Q for the thread

I bought a 3rd party N64 controller and the thumbstick is a bit on the oversensitive side

anyway to fix this? made playing conker's BFD annoying

>> No.1838228
File: 99 KB, 900x529, rearPorts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1838228

My SNES is missing the little piece of plastic that holds the power cord in place, leaving only the two metal prongs sticking out.
Is there an easy fix for this, or am I screwed?
Pic related, the plastic bit that broke off

>> No.1838251

>>1838228
Someone else here had the same problem last week, if you want to check the archives. I think their solution was to just get a standard power connector and replace the entire assembly with it.

>> No.1838254

>>1838251
>>1838228
>27-day-old thread
Last month I mean.

>> No.1838258

>>1838228
That piece of plastic helps the contacts (the metal prongs) make...well make contact with the ac plug, you can separate them a little bit to help them make contact with the plug, but it still will be pretty loose so a little bump or movement will probably turn it on.

Or you can get another cylindrical piece of plastic of the same size and replace that shit...or get another power connector like this guy >>1838251
said while I was writing all this shit.

>> No.1838261

>>1838228
You can buy the whole assembly in one part, I believe.

>> No.1838267

>>1838258
>>1838251
>>1838261
Thanks guys, I appreciate it

>> No.1838268

>>1838219
There's a mod board made to "desensitize" Gamecube sticks for use with N64 controllers. That may be an option.

>> No.1839060

>>1838228
easy way: buy a replacement panel on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Replacement-AC-Power-box-FIX-Repair-Part-Input-Jack-for-SNES-Super-Nintendo-/370885594251?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item565a810c8b

hard way: buy a new ac connector from mouser , solder it in and use a generic ac adapter instead

>> No.1839330

>>1764957
I get this a lot too, on both of my Super Nintendos. The green bars scroll down the screen slowly. For some reason it is most noticeable when I play Star Fox, though you can see it in other games.

>> No.1839346

>>1764957
I >>1839330 just tried out using my genuine power adapter on my Super Nintendo, and now the green scrolling lines are gone. I've been using a power adapter that powers both the NES and SNES so that must've been it. Hope this helps.

>> No.1839824

>>1764957
That could be the cause. Your power supply might not be able to provide enough current

>> No.1839852

>>1839060
it's actually harder to remove the back panel and solder in the new one than just to do a standard 2.1mm jack...

source: i've done both

>> No.1840492

Looking for replacement casing for the following:
GBA
SNES controller (replacement buttons would be cool too)
SNES
N64
N64 controller

Anyone make this shit? Would love to not have to buy old-ass cases.

>> No.1840512

I have a NES and while it's currently working fine, I know they had problems with faulty connectors or whatever that would cause problems reading games over time. Are there any preventative measures I can take to reduce the risk of this happening to mine? Besides simply never switching out the game, of course.

>> No.1840817

>>1840512
You can restore tension to the pins by using a strong needle or pin to pull them back towards the center of the connector slot. Not too much, though, lest Hooke's Law bite you in the ass.

I'm using a third party connector in my NES. Works fine. I use Hoppe's No. 9 to clean the pins of the carts if they're noticeably cruddy. Also now that I have an Everdrive, I only eject the cart to put more homebrews and romhacks on the memory card.

>> No.1840836

>>1840817
>I'm using a third party connector
something like this? http://www.amazon.com/72-pin-Replacement-Connector-Nintendo-Entertainment-System/dp/B00558MH9Y.. Are third party connectors more durable than the vanilla one?

also, what's an everdrive? Is that like a flashcart for the NES?

>> No.1840882
File: 756 KB, 1836x3264, Turbo Everdrive without USB port - top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1840882

>>1840836
Oh, you poor child.
http://shop.retrogate.com/

Krikkz is some sort of engineering god. He's the creator of the Everdrive, his own series of flash carts for the Turbo GrafX 16/PC Engine, NES and Famicom, SNES, Genesis and 32X, Master System, N64, Game Gear, and Game Boy. There are other options, like the SD2SNES, reportedly superior to the Super Everdrive in that it has wider specialty chip game support.

On the NES edge connector, yeah, I got one about ten years ago on eBay, but it was warped and thus, trash, but I got another one that was straight, and it works fine. I kept the original, just in case.

>> No.1841597

Hey /vr/

I got a free copy of Resident Evil from a dude I bought a bunch of other games from, turns out it was free for a reason.

It appears theres like a bubble or something has distorted the surface on the edge of the disc. The disc is unreadable on my playstation3

I tried the toothpaste trick and it was no good. If I went and had it professionally resurfaced would it make a difference? Or is the disc just dead to rights.

>> No.1841615

>>1841597
If there's a bubble, it's dead. That may indicate that the reflective layer has separated from the plastic disc. Thankfully, Resident Evil 1 is more common than sand.

>> No.1843039
File: 665 KB, 3264x1836, DSC_0102.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843039

Hi y'all. It's that dumb shit again from earlier. I've been working on the 50/60Hz switch on my snes and now I'm stuck again. The jap games look great on 50Hz, But, when changed to 60Hz, well pic related. I've made sure that the solder is good, used different types of wires as I've been told that sometimes there could be interference. I even used a second 21.47727 crystal, just in case I messed up the first one. I've connected it to the tv with a RGB scart lead. I know I've screwed up somewhere.

>> No.1843043
File: 229 KB, 3264x1836, DSC_0104.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1843043

>>1843039
50Hz

>> No.1843101

>>1843039
Try different TV, looks like your current one doesnt support 60hz, hence b&w picture.

>> No.1843110

>>1843101
60Hz modded megadrive with rgb scart works just fine. It's a HDTV.

>> No.1843128

>>1843110
Make/model of your TV?

>> No.1843149

http://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/37PFL5405H_05/94-cm-37-inch-full-hd-1080p-digital-tv

>> No.1843202

>>1843039
Pull off the rgb scart from the tv (the megadrive one) and connect there the one from the super nintendo.

>> No.1843242

>>1843202
>Pull off the rgb scart from the tv (the megadrive one) and connect there the one from the super nintendo.


The MD and snes RGB cables are not interchangeable. And with only one scart socket, this is not the problem. I've tried giving google a search, but, still haven't found a solution. It must have been something I done, or haven't done. I might undo everything and re-do the mods.

>> No.1843584

Okay this isn't exactly retro, but....

What kind of battery would I need to replace the internal clock of a Pokemon Emerald cartridge? I already know how to replace it, that you don't need to weld it, etc etc. But I don't know what kind of battery it actually needs.

>> No.1843629

>>1843043
>dat kanji
This is composite.

>>1843039
Do you also switch the Video encoder to NTSC. (a logic level 0V/5V on a specific pin, similar done as 50/60hz)
>I've connected it to the tv with a RGB scart lead
Sure that it's RGB?
Did you plugged it into a RGB capable SCART socket?

>> No.1843639

>>1843584
CR2025 battery

>> No.1843642

>>1843639
Well, that's the official size. I've read of people using a CR2032 (which has more charge, I think).

>> No.1843831

>>1843629
>This is composite.
RGB scart. It is also the same picture with composite.

>Do you also switch the Video encoder to NTSC. (a logic level 0V/5V on a specific pin, similar done as 50/60hz)

>>1793086
Post related. That is my current setup. The NTSC/PAL mod was fine on it's own, with no (as far as I can tell) problems. I've changed it around a few times. Like giving both switches their own GND and +5V source. Same result.

pal/50Hz: Not full screen and imports do not work.
ntsc/50Hz: Not full screen, imports do work.
pal/60Hz: Full screen, imports don't work, bad picture.
ntsc/60Hz Full screen, imports work, bad picture.

Sure that it's RGB?
Did you plugged it into a RGB capable SCART socket?
My Megadrive II came out black and white when I would switch it to 60Hz, I got a RGB scart off ebay and it is now in full glorious colour. So, I'm assuming that it is a RGB capable socket.

As the 50Hz is fine, I'm starting to think that maybe the crystal is to blame.

>> No.1844868

>>1843831
Bump for help.

I'm still no closer to getting a clear picture when I switch it to 60Hz. Is it worth it to do the SuperCIC mod? Finding info to mod a chip1 snes is scarce.

>> No.1846996

>>1843639
thanks

>> No.1847496
File: 476 KB, 474x626, gameboy broken.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1847496

Help me /vr/!

I bought this cute little guy here, problem is, pic related. There's this huge black shit on the screen.

What is this? Is there a way to fix it?

Thanks in advance

>> No.1847531

My snes seems to not be able to use mode 7 anymore. It does somthing like in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqWDbG_Cbdo

Do I have to get a new one?

>> No.1847538

>>1847531
Something's probably gone wrong with the GPU or the RAM chips that work with it. You probably just need to figure out which chip it is. Hopefully, someone else in the thread can narrow down the problem.

If you aren't going to repair it yourself and just buy a new one, please sell that one for parts so someone can repair other broken SNES's.

>> No.1847540

>>1847538
>>1847531
I should ask, does this happen with any game that does Mode 7? And if so, what games are giving you that problem?

>> No.1847542

>>1847531

Now you have a rare Nintendo ZSNES.

>> No.1847560

>>1847496

no one?

>> No.1847569

>>1847540
It happens with every game that uses mode 7, some more severe than others. For example f-zero down right impossible to play, top gear gliches a little in the horizon but is still playable, and yoshi's island has small graphical problems in the score screen and mini games.
>>1847542
That's pretty funny.

>> No.1847645

>>1847496
I think someone pushed on the screen until it broke. You probably have to replace it.

>> No.1847667

>>1847645

is it expensive?
I bought it for like, 30 bucks. It came with a pokemon blue game, that I can play on my gba. But still, I wanted to fix it. But if it's to expensive, I'll use it to repair others.

Thanks

>> No.1847674

>>1847667
>is it expensive?
I actually don't know I can't seem to find any on ebay and they usually have stuff like that. Seems to be somewhat uncommon. You're probably better off using it as a donor board for repairing other gameboys.

>> No.1847742

>>1847538
>GPU
Yes, more likely to be PPU2. I would attempt to reflow the solder of both PPU chips.

>RAM
Title screen is ok.
Sprites are ok.
The actual mode7 tiles are also ok.
I don't think that this is causing that.

>>1847542
top kek

>> No.1847780

>>1847674

thanks

if anyone got any more info do tell

>> No.1847820

>>1847742
Is there any reason why this happens? I haven't abused my snes for the 5 years that i have had, but i did buy it used.

>> No.1847856

>>1847780
Or you can get a donor gbp for cheap and replace the screen.

>> No.1847909

>>1840882
Once he developed an interface to flash the ROM from the SD card, it's pretty much downhill from there for all consoles. The worst case scenario was pretty much the SNES, and that's because all of the coprocessor shit.

>> No.1848870

>>1847820
Solder dries up and cracks if it's old

>> No.1849913
File: 127 KB, 1023x764, IMG_0578.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1849913

Anyone know if Japanese home consoles through the 32-bit era need any kind of power adapters to work on American outlets? I know they have the same plug type, but the different voltages are worrying me.

>> No.1849952

Is it alright to ask about GameCube controller repair?

>> No.1849958

>>1849952
Thanks for asking. To clarify in no uncertain terms, nope. Board rules.

>> No.1849961

>>1849913
Ive been told a model one genesis adapter works fine but I had issues with it so I just use my SNES power, seems fine to me but this is far from a professional opinion

>> No.1849963

>>1849913
110 and 120 volts are close enough that it doesn't matter

>> No.1849968

>>1849958
Oh, thanks anyway.
I'll check back when the PS5 comes out then.

>> No.1849992

>>1849968
Try using the message board on the wiki.

>> No.1849997

>>1849963
More like 100V and 120V.

Bad idea to overvolt consoles by 20%. Just use a US AC adapter if it's compatible with the Japanese system. Goes without saying that the US NES AC adapter should ONLY be used with a US NES...

>> No.1850021

>>1849997
If you think voltages are that strict then alright.

Voltage varies from 100 to 110 in Japan and 110 all the way up to 130 in some places in America

>> No.1850036

>>1850021
Better safe than fire hazard.

>> No.1850251

>>1850036
>implying that the 7805 will catch fire
No way this will happen, they are rated for a maximum voltage of 20-35V and mostly feature feature thermal shutdown.

Even if the 7805 gets too hot, it will likely turn off or break before the plastic warps.

>> No.1850264

>>1850251
It's not the 7805 that you have to worry about, it's the AC adapter.

>> No.1850285

>>1850264
Ah. I don't get all these complains at all.
According to this >>1850021
that it will may have a peak output voltage of about 13V which is still within the safe voltage range of the 7805.
Both AC and 7805 will also get a little warmer than in 80s in Japan, but really just let it run for 5-10 hours and look if they get too hot (>120°C).

>> No.1850651

I was dusting my N64 with a compressed air cleaner yesterday, when I accidentally tilted the can. A giant glob of liquid came out and fell into the cartridge slot.

Now, I've had that stuff fall out before, and it dries up after a few minutes, but never that much in such a crucial spot. Think the N64 will be okay if I fire it up today?

>> No.1850671

>>1850651
Yeah. You may want to clean the cart connectors before doing so, but I'm sure it's fine. Just be careful next time.

>> No.1851132

I'm tempted to mod a GBC, basically taking the components of the GBC out of its case and put it in a DMG's case, with a frontlight mod and stuff. I am wondering if the board and all the components of the GBC can fit in the DMG.

Specifically this one;
http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-dmg-case

>> No.1851531
File: 10 KB, 300x300, belkin-12-outlet-surge-protector-300x300.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1851531

>>1849961
>>1850036
>>1850264
>>1849997

I'm >>1849913

I'm referring, actually, to the original model Super Famicom. I won't have issues if I treat like all of my other consoles and my PC, i.e. turning off the surge protector strips they're plugged into after using them, right? That's all I need to know.

>> No.1852681

>>1851531
That's fine you can do that.

>> No.1852957

>>1844868
Since I can't get help with this snes, lets move onto another one I just got.

This one has a problem with it video output.

>Seller says it won't play games.
>Ask for more details.
>"Powers on, but the game wont start"

I got it.

Set it up with RGB scart and turn it on. The TV automatically turns to the right channel and I hear the sweet music from Mario paint. But, there is no picture.

I take apart and give it a complete clean out. While the console has a bad case of yellowing, contacts where clean as a whistle. Set it up again and turn it on. Same thing. I also tried a composite cable, just in case. I did give google a look and I couldn't find a forum topic with the same problem that was resolved. I did see a post that said to: "Turn it on and leave it for a while. then press reset.". Gave it a try and something interesting happened. A mess of pixels came on the screen and the sound was screwed up. Turning it off and on will give me a blank screen with perfect sound, while pressing reset will give me a complete mess. I'm guessing that a capacitor it playing up. I don't have a multimeter to check, but I'm going to grab one within the next hour. If there is someone with a better idea of what the problem is, that would be great.

>> No.1852972

>>1852957
Sounds like you need to get a decent multimeter, because this guesswork is not conducive to providing solutions.

>> No.1853521
File: 202 KB, 930x523, ps2_930.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1853521

>QUESTION

Is there any way to mod my fat ps2 so i can run copies of games without using swapmagic or chip ?

ty

>> No.1853534

>>1853521
>Is there any way to mod my fat ps2 so i can run copies of games without using swapmagic or chip ?

No.

>> No.1853738

>>1853521
http://bootleg.sksapps.com/tutorials/fmcb/

You need some way to load data onto a PS2 memory card to do this, though. That will require a GameShark or Action Replay with that capability.

>> No.1853795

>>1853738
ty but i dont have any of those :/

>> No.1854175

>>1853795
GameSharks tend to sell for an irritating amount of money on eBay, but there are people on the interbutts who will magic-up your memory card for you for a fee.

>> No.1854196

>>1853795
Buy a "ps2 memory card reader" for PC on Ebay or Amazon. There is software for it to load FMCB

>> No.1854762
File: 793 KB, 2560x1440, 2014-08-12 02.04.59.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1854762

Hey /vr/, I usually lurk, but this time I need your help.
a couple days ago I noticed a couple black spots on my GBC, and supposed they were dead pixels...
Today I looked at it again, and it spread quite a bit
I'm not sure if they're dead pixels, since they stay black, even with the console off
Is there any fix other than getting a new screen?
pic related

>> No.1854835

So I brought out my old N64 and of course it's having trouble playing games. I'm going to do the whole "clean contacts with rubbing alcohol" thing but I'm not sure if that's the only issue. The games don't seem to load when I flick the power switch like I normally would, but if I move the switch slowly, it seems to work.

Anyone heard of anything familiar? I'm trying to get to the root problem here. Hope this isn't anything too severe

>> No.1854850

>>1854835
Yes the power switch is most likely having contact issues.

It's either in the switch it's self or on the board. There might be cracked solder on the switch or you might have to open it up and spray the switch with some contact cleaner or both.

Jugging from what you said though, it sounds like there's a cracked solder joint

>> No.1854865

>>1854850
is that easily repairable?

>> No.1854940

>>1854865
if it's a cracked joint, simply reheating the solder to it melts again should work

If it's the contacts inside, Raido Shack sells cans of contact cleaners. All you'd do is spray a little amount inside the switch and flip it back and fourth

>> No.1854954

>>1854940
I assumed it'd be that simple but I was just checking. Of course I just took a look at the n64 underside and of course it uses those goddamn special screws. oh boy here we go

>> No.1854998

>>1854954
You're in for a fun time

the N64 has the most screws out of ANY Nintendo system

>> No.1855331

Booted up the playstation today and it got stuck at the logo, reset it and it loaded just fine. Was it just a fluke or should I be concerned? It's a later model playstation made in 00 or 01.

>> No.1855361

>>1855331
It's slowly deleting itself, better panic. Nah, you're probably fine. If it happens again soon, well, just keep an eye on it and on prices on eBay.

>> No.1855364

>>1855331
Probably a fluke. Could also be the drive failing but it's not necessarily that.

>> No.1855478

>>1849997
you're actually not "overvolting" japanese consoles because the consoles take DC, not AC, and the consoles have voltage regulators.

you are "overvolting" the ac adapter, but in 15 years of using a 100v japanese adapter in a 120v country I have had no issues whatsoever

step-up converter is totally unnecessary. if youre that paranoid buy a 3rd party adapter on ebay for like $10-20

>> No.1855481

>>1849913
it's fine, just plug it in and go

>> No.1855483

>>1847531
probably a bad PPU, you'll have to check all of the traces and solder joints and repair or reflow anything that looks bad

get a flashcart and a test cart rom, best things for troubleshooting if you have no tech skill

>> No.1855563

>>1853521
Find a memory card with freemcboot and try it on your ps2.

I installed FreeMcBoot using my ps2 slim and it runs on my ps2 fat too, I suppose this isn't always the case though, so at least try to find a FreeMcBoot installed on a fat ps2.

>> No.1855568

>>1854762
Looks like that screen is slowly leaking, like it has a little crack or something on the upper side, do you dropped it?

>> No.1855575

These days my SNES resets whenever it is bumped, even slightly. I've never been inside of an SNES but I'm suspecting a connection issue. Are there any guides to help me with this (I didn't notice any in the wiki but maybe I missed one)? What should I be looking for?

>> No.1855605

>>1855575
I'd check the reset switch

You might have to replace it.

>> No.1855720

>>1855568
No, but I traveled and it might have been a bit cranked up in a bag full of other stuff...

So.. new screen? ;_;

>> No.1855743

>>1855575
Could be that the power connector solder has cracked, and bumping the system disconnects it briefly. Try holding the system itself stable, then wiggle the power cord/connector a bit. If the system resets, that's probably it. Check everything for any physical damage or distortion, and re-flow the solder for the power connector. That's just melting it and letting it re-set, really.

>>1855720
Yep. It's not impossible-hard, just take it slowly and use a Youtube video guide. Hell, I built two guns using Youtube guides.

>> No.1855924

>>1855743
I couldn't find a specific video on how to change it, but I did find a video to add a frontlight, and the guy disassembles the screen, so I got that pretty much covered, thanks

>> No.1855932

>>1855924
Remember to take it slow, and don't rush anything. That leads to ripped ribbon cables and broken components. If you start feeling anxious, take a break. Nothing will happen if you leave everything sit on the desk/worktable for a bit.

>> No.1856109

>>1854196
This sounds interesting, i think i'll try to get one of those.

>> No.1857212

>>1853521
FMCB + Network adapter + Hard Drive or FMCB + Network adapter + Ethernet cable