/vr/ CRT THREAD

[Anonymous No.1404726]

previous /crt/ thread: >>1388219

[Anonymous No.1404793]

>>1404726
PVM-1354Q on craigslist for 50 dollars. Should I?

[Anonymous No.1404798]

>>1404793
I have the 14" of the same model and it's great, that one looks like it's in decent condition too

[Anonymous No.1404808]

Hey, I'm the guy with the messed up RCA that needs calibration.
I can't figure out how to get to the service menu.
How do I go about fixing it?
It's a 20F420T, BTW

[Anonymous No.1404814]

>>1404798
What's the 14 one? I don't really want something with like 12" viewable. But I think 20 might be too big for like desk distance.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1404854]

>>1404814
I'm pretty sure 13 vs 14 is just a difference between how screen size is measured between US and Europe.

>I think 20 might be too big for like desk distance.
So long as you have a desk that can support it, 20'' looks wonderful at 2/3 feet away; Or at least it does in my opinion.

[Anonymous No.1404896]

>>1404814
Just set up an emulator with a 12" window on your desktop monitor and see how it feels.

I can sit 3-4 feet from my TM-13U and it looks fine.

[Anonymous No.1404909]

Great collection of old monitors and TVs here:

http://www.navesync.com/Displays/photos/page_05.htm

I like the 80s PVM styling. Used to have a PVM1900. Gave it away because it because it didn't have RGB or S-video input.

>fucking stupid

[Anonymous No.1404924]

How do scanlines look at 800 lines, vs 500, or a lower number? Is there a sweet spot? I don't want to get a tv that doesn't give me the retro feel I'm looking for, but I did find a good crt for cheap.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1404935]

>>1404924
TVL is essentially a measure of sharpness horizontally, so it really wouldn't have an effect on the vertically staggered scanlines. Would result in a sharper image though.

[Anonymous No.1404954]

>>1404726
How good is using a rear projector TV compared to a CRT?

[Anonymous No.1404960]

>>1404924
It's not really that much. 800 will look sharper, but it's still nothing like an average PC monitor.
People used to fuss about dot pitch being coarse, and not wanting the higher res monitors, but I think opinions have shifted towards making games look as good as possible, rather than capturing the old school feel.

500, 700, 800...240p will look about the same on all of them: amazing

800x600i is a nice res to have for emu front-ends tho.

[Anonymous No.1404970]

What's the best non-aperture grille CRT?

[Anonymous No.1404987]

can anyone ID this trinitron?
its 21' and 40 euros, should i get it ?

[Anonymous No.1404993]

>>1404987
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.1404995]

I found a 27" Sony Wega FS27120 today in a thrift store for $5. I remembered /vr/ saying they are some of the best ones out there for retro gaming. What am I in for, assuming I can move that 100 pound behemoth out from my car inside the house?

[Anonymous No.1405090]

>>1404993
Maybe for 1/3 the price. 40 euros is quite high.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405118]

This, if not for any other reason, is why I need to get my license, and a truck.

>Searching Craigslist
>FREE Console TV
>Eh, it looks like it's in pretty rou-
>Dimensia
>E-mail asking for a photo of the back

[Anonymous No.1405178]

>>1405118

I've moved a Sony KD- 34XS955 and a Toshiba 36A60 by leaning them in the trunk of my car with a some cardboard between the screen and the rubber bumper, then tying the trunk as closed as possible and driving veeerrrryyyyy sloooowwwwly the few miles back to my apartment.

You need to figure out a way to get this thing. It's one of the grails. Offer to pay them to deliver it.

[Anonymous No.1405186]

Does the PVM S0L5 take rgb, s-video and composite?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405215]

>>1405178
Just contacted them, they don't want to deliver.

I might be able to get a friend who has a truck to help me with it, the only problem is it would be something like an 80 mile round trip.

Still, even if I had to give him gas money, it'd be worth it to finally get an RGB capable shadowmask tube.

[Anonymous No.1405225]

>>1405215
Do it! Make a fun road trip out of it.

What's the size of the TV?

Shadowmask though..eww (just my opinion)

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405241]

>>1405225
Nothing wrong with a nice shadowmask tube. Would be nice to contrast it with the 3 Trinitrons I have sitting around.

And just think, if it's large enough, I could even use it as a stand for my PVM.

[Anonymous No.1405449]

>>1405215
80 miles is what...12 dollars in gas?

Plus give your bud a twenty or two for helping out and it's still very much worth it.

[Anonymous No.1405451]

>>1405225
The best looking display I ever owned was a shadowmask. And I owned several PVMs.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405460]

>>1405449
I'll have to see when he's got some spare time in the next few days.

It's going to need a bit of TLC to make it presentable.

[Anonymous No.1405469]

>>1405460
Doesn't it slide out of the wooden console?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405470]

>>1405469
No Idea.

[Anonymous No.1405471]

>>1405460
I'd still go for it. Once you can get it cleaned up and stick a couple of systems in that cabinet it will be the best looking game station you could ever hope for.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405473]

>>1405471
That's exactly what I'm planning. Assuming I manage to get it of course.

[Anonymous No.1405474]

>>1405470
Some console TVs do, I can't really tell from the google images photos whether or not they are different models, or just ones that have been pulled out of the housing.

[Anonymous No.1405479]

>>1405460
That old school cabinet...oh man.

Looks like it needs some clean up, but what a sweet TV that will be!!

[Anonymous No.1405485]

>>1405479
It's beautiful isn't it?

[Anonymous No.1405628]

Hello crt bros. I have a NEC XM2950 that I picked up off craigslist a couple years ago and I just wanted to let you guys enjoy some shitty pictures I took. Sony fangirls be mad jealous. I really do love this thing because it is so versatile. It has a few minor issues, but overall works like a champ. Also, this crt is a fucking 150lbs beast with like 4 fans inside.

[Anonymous No.1405635]

>>1405628

Man, I'd LOVE to get one of these, but the best I can get here are Sony monitors (they're still pretty cool, but I'd love to see one of these).

[Anonymous No.1405637]

>>1405628

The NEC XM2950 is older and doesn’t have an OCD. However, it has more mid-res options than the newer pro or xtra models.

[Anonymous No.1405658]

>>1405637

>>1405635
I would actually like to get a sony bvm someday. The guy I bought this from was selling pvms but happened to have the xm29 also. I was pretty lucky.

[Anonymous No.1405668]

>>1405658
Btw, If you want to know what crt to look out for I used this list of monitors. http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?19783-RGB-Monitor-List

That fucking huge ass mitsubishi model is godly.

[Anonymous No.1405702]

>>1404909
Thank you for this link, anon. I found one of my childhood TVs on one of these pages. I wasn't sure while looking at some of them, but once I saw the exact model, I was sure. I had no clue it was even made years before I was born.

Man, I wish I still had it and that it had never broken.

[Anonymous No.1405709]

>>1404954
RPTV has always been considered inferior to direct-view in terms of quality. Viewing angle is worse and so is visibility under bright ambient lighting.

Other than that, CRT RPTVs are pretty good. I wish I'd picked up a late-model HD version when they were being blown out.

[Anonymous No.1405721]

>>1404970
I like slot mask as a technology, but more importantly there are displays from all different screen technologies that I've enjoyed using very much.

[Anonymous No.1405741]

Would a mint KV-36FS17 be worth picking up for $50? Seems like a pretty legit tv. Would take some serious restructuring of the game room to find a way to fit it in, but I'm tired of playing retro stuff on the LCD.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405753]

>>1405741
>36
My back is crying out in pain just thinking about it. Moving the 32FS13 up to my room was absolutely murderous; a 36'' of the same? That's scary.

That said, even RF doesn't look bad on it. Definitely a good set if you're looking for something large.

[Anonymous No.1405758]

>>1405753
I hear you. Thankfully it will be going on the first floor. Hopefully its not gone, Just caught it on CL and it's been listed for a bit.

[Anonymous No.1405815]

Do PVMs have trouble being turned on their sides for tate mode in shmups etc.? Do they become gaussed?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405820]

I've never done it with my model, but from what I've seen, so long as you turn them while they're off and give them time to adjust, they work perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.1405826]

>>1405815
pvms should be easier to tate and yes it can mess with the magnetism. pvms usually have degauss buttons.

[Anonymous No.1405835]

>>1405820

Yeah, I know not to move them about whilst they're on so that's OK. How long should I give it to adjust? A few minutes?

>>1405826

Mine does (20M4A) but if it'd need degaussing frequently due to being turned 90° I think I'd rather just leave it on its base.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1405836]

>>1405835
Like I said, I've never done it with mine so I really can't say.

[Anonymous No.1405902]

>>1405186
Anyone?

[Anonymous No.1405951]

>>1405090
you see the person has to deliver it, have you any ID on it?

[Anonymous No.1405984]

>>1405741
I pay like $15 for 21" of this series
but yeah it's good for retro
But fuck 36 gonna be heavy

[Anonymous No.1406098]

Sony PVM-1944Q any good?
Can get it for $30.00. First time to get a CRT too.

Owner says "it needs to warm up 1-3 minutes to get to broadcast accurate colors". Is that okay?

[Anonymous No.1406106]

>>1406098
That's true of all CRTs.

[IGN: GabGab / Gabriel No.1406203]

>>1406106
Weird that he only listed it on that specific one.

[Anonymous No.1406221]

>>1404793
>looks like home studio
>probably didn't spend hours on end broadcasting
I would get this.

did you get this?

[anonymous No.1406224]

what is the reccomended crt type? a trinitron? and where would I buy one? amazon?

[Anonymous No.1406287]

>>1406224
Trinitron is good but overhyped. Check your local thrift-shops or Craigslist, sometimes they're free or 10-20 bucks max.

[Anonymous No.1406294]

>>1406287
>overhyped
people who have never used trinitrons will say things like this, only because they are ignorant to the facts.

[Anonymous No.1406306]

>>1406294
>tfw I own a trinitron

[anonymous No.1406330]

>>1406294
can you buy them online and get them shipped? I live out in the middle of nowhere surrounded by forest not a thrift shop or a mall in site.

[Anonymous No.1406351]

>>1406330
Yeah but shipping is going to be a bitch.

[Anonymous No.1406521]

>>1405186
Do you mean pvm 20L5? Yes I believe it does.

[Anonymous No.1406550]

>>1406294
You're embarrassing yourself.

BVM might be considered "the best", but even it is beaten in a few categories by some of the best shadow mask and cromaclear designs.

[Anonymous No.1406624]

>>1405984
Looks like I'm going to be able to pick it up for $40. Now I'm just mentally preparing to move this sumbitch

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1406638]

>>1406624
Bring at least 2 people to help you move it. Even if you're a burly fucker, the size and shape of it are what'll do you in.

[Anonymous No.1406642]

>>1406624

This guy >>1406638 Knows what he is talking about.

I move heavy things for a living and you always move old CRT's this way. Too easy to drop, or hurt yourself. It's never the weight, it's how unweildly they can be.

[Anonymous No.1406663]

>>1406642
Yeah, I'm not crazy enough to even attempt to think of doing it solo.

[Anonymous No.1406712]

actually, carry stuff yourself unless you are a pussy.

[Anonymous No.1406735]

>>1406712
>will have back problems later in life

[Anonymous No.1406854]

>>1404793
No.

[Anonymous No.1406939]

>>1406712
Carrying a 36" CRT by yourself is a recipe for disaster.

Move it with two guys.

[Anonymous No.1406945]

Also, if you do manage to move a big CRT by yourself it's next to impossible to sit it down gently. You drop it down, and that's horrible for convergence.

[Anonymous No.1406995]

This is why 17-21 inch CRT computer monitors are the best CRTs, they're not too fucking heavy to carry by yourself and are higher quality anyway.

[Anonymous No.1407021]

>>1406098
I'm fairly certain I know what this is all about
is this the one from sulit?

[Anonymous No.1407030]

>>1404808
Can anyone help?

[Anonymous No.1407041]

>>1406939
>two *additional guys
Remember, it's a Sony.

[Anonymous No.1407174]

>>1404993
Cheap late model POS in poor condition, barely worth a tenner.

Just because you're in Ireland doesn't mean you'll never get a decent CRT. I have a PVM-1442QM that I got for free - you just need to keep an eye out for these things

[Anonymous No.1407203]

>>1406995
I like the big screens. I loved sitting in the floor and playing Progear on 33" screen. Very immersive. I'd take a slightly less quality big screen over a smaller one everytime if I had the space and ability to move it.

Also played 19XX on a 37" Mitsu in TATE mode. That was something.

[Anonymous No.1407230]

>>1404954
Usually inferior, but they have their charm. Also respect to collectors and restorers of those sets because some of the early ones were real works of art, and usually get tossed.

Some of them -might- have had an RGB connection of some kind. It's something I've never really got around to researching.

[Anonymous No.1407632]

So, CRT dudes, I need some opinions.

I got ahold of a playstation 1 recently and threw a modchip into it so I could go back and play all those ps1 games I missed. However, I have an LCD TV and it never occurred to me that PS1 was designed for CRT (ps2 seems to give fairly good quality over composite). When I hook up the PS1 with an s-video cable the quality is sharp but I get dithering. When I hook it up with RCA cables I get no dithering but the video is a lot fuzzier than I remember.

I haven't played on this system a whole lot yet and I can't decide which mode to play. So I have no idea how bad the dithering can get nor how bad the fuzziness can get on an LCD. I would buy a CRT but the place I'm living in is tiny so even if I could find a nice one in the area it still wouldn't fit in my place.

Any thoughts?

Do PS1 2D games make use of dithering or isit just 3D games?

I was looking around the net and saw some people saying they made their own S-Video cables. I have some soldering experience but I have no idea where I'd get ps1 connectors except by cannibalizing an existing one, would such a method even make a difference?

[Anonymous No.1407650]

>>1407632
If you've already already got an S-video cable for your ps1, why would you need to make your own?

And yes, the PS1 was definitely designed for play on standard definition CRTs, and will look its best on such displays.

[Anonymous No.1407656]

>>1404954

I see a warning in pretty much every game's manual saying not to play it on a rear projection TV.

[Anonymous No.1407683]

>>1407656
That's because rear projection TVs are prone to burn-in if you leave your game paused for long periods of time. This can be prevented by turning off the TV right after pausing.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1407696]

Looking into getting a SCART switch so I when I eventually get other cables for my systems, I won't have fiddle around with the wiring anytime I want to play a different system.

Problem is, the female output on the switch isn't going to play very well with the female input on my breakout cable. Do they sell male to male adapters, or am I going to need to buy a male to male cable.

Either way, where would be a good place to order one so as to not end up with a improperly shielded/incorrectly wired cable/adapter?

[Anonymous No.1407705]

>>1407696

I don't know if the sell male to male adapter, but I know the male to male cables have a pretty good shielding.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1407712]

>>1407705
The question is, where to order from. I'd rather not order from Hong Kong, and end up with a composite only cable the size an average RCA cable 3 months after I ordered.

[Anonymous No.1407718]

>>1407712

I got mine from radiospares:

http://www.rs-particuliers.com/WebCatalog/Cordon_SCART_Maxview_H87008M-6974130.aspx

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1407720]

>>1407718
I need this to be shipped to the US, and I'm not sure whether they'd do that/how expensive it would be.

[Anonymous No.1407740]

>>1407720

After a quick research, it seems that they don't ship to the US, yes, and their US counter part, Allied Electronics, doesn't seems to have this kind of cable.

[Anonymous No.1407791]

>>1406995
I have Sony 21" CRT TV and 21" Monitor
and I'm telling you man, that monitor is fucking heavier and a bitch to carry (and doing TATE)
TV is 24Kg and monitor is 31Kg
Dunno what is making sucha different in weight...

[Anonymous No.1407824]

>>1407720
Here's a male to male SCART from a UK based seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/75cm-RGB-Scart-20-Pin-Male-OFC-Wire-HD-ED-SD-Signal-Plasma-Display-TV-Plug-Cable-/310636346506?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item48535e7c8a

75 cm, or 2.5 feet. There's a longer one in their store as well.

[Anonymous No.1407835]

>>1407720
Here's a male to male SCART from a UK based seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/75cm-RGB-Scart-20-Pin-Male-OFC-Wire-HD-ED-SD-Signal-Plasma-Display-TV-Plug-Cable-/310636346506?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item48535e7c8a

75 cm, or 2.5 feet. There's a longer one in their store as well. And here's one from a US based seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6ft-Black-9-Wire-Single-Shielded-Cable-with-SCART-Male-to-Male-/160842295203?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2572f2a7a3

6 feet, and the seller for this one really stresses the thickness and shielding, sounds promising.

[Anonymous No.1407856]

>>1407230
>Some of them -might- have had an RGB connection of some kind

These would

[Anonymous No.1407864]

>>1407712
>>1407720

A fully wired male-to-male SCART cable is the de facto cable for connecting SDTV devices to TVs in Western Europe (e.g. VCRs, DVD players, STBs). Any shop that sells TVs will sell these over here.

Do Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de not ship things like this to the US?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1407928]

>>1407864
I hadn't looked into it, but I would think shipping would be a bit pricey

>>1407835
Thinking about buying a 1.5 or 1.8m version of the UK based cable. It'll cost me less than half of the US based one for the same length.

[Anonymous No.1408368]

how do I calibrate my CRT for best picture?

[Anonymous No.1408379]

>>1407856
Be careful; Sega's early 3D machines (Model 2, at least) are medium-resolution 24KHz. Not compatible with anything but other Sega boards from that same era.

[Anonymous No.1408442]

>>1408368

Get a test pattern generator (it might be a computer, a console with a CD drive, or an electronic device) an find a guide on how to tune your monitor according to the different patterns.

[Anonymous No.1408565]

>>1408379
The Super Megalo II has a built-in scan converter so is natively 24 kHz but can convert 15 kHz inputs. Not sure what the picture quality is like with the latter though

[Anonymous No.1408887]

How would I downscale ps2/gc games in 480i to 240p?

[Anonymous No.1408931]

>>1408887
WHY

[Anonymous No.1408939]

>>1408931
Obviously his screen doesn't play nice with 480i.

[Anonymous No.1408940]

>>1408931
mostly for game collections that are meant to run in 240p but are in 480i . Plus 480i ugly as hell.

[Anonymous No.1409027]

>>1408940
480i is fine if viewed on a suitable display.
Many 240p PS2 games can be patched to output 240p correctly. However, some use bilinear filtering and no scaler will be able to fix that shittyness

[Anonymous No.1409049]

>>1408887
Basically the best way would be to use an emotia. You'd figure out a way to connect your systems via a VGA connector then take the RGB out and connect it to your TV. Certain models will downscale from 480p & 480i to 240p. I'm pretty sure for gc it'd just be cheaper to use a wii not sure about how you would do Ps2 VGA.

[Anonymous No.1409058]

Question:

What is the difference between the XP and XM models of NEC? I have seen the XP/XM lumped together in manual documentation, but I reallycan't seem to figure out what exactly is different about them.

[Anonymous No.1409064]

>>1407632
Dithering is normal. The higher the quality of video connection you are using the more noticeable it will be.
Generally it's used for shading in 3D games but sometimes it's used in 2D games also (Mostly on backgrounds which have a colour gradient)

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1409187]

>>1405225
>What's the size of the TV?
25 inch

[Anonymous No.1409214]

>>1409064
>>1407650

Thanks for the info, guys.

I've been playing with RCA connectors which seem to tone down the dithering a whole lot due to being crappy cables and though I initially thought it looked like garbage I have now gotten used to it.

[Anonymous No.1409292]

Semi-related to the thread: if I want to output 480i video from my computer (not necessarily for games, I'm thinking 4:3 video on my CRT) what's my best bet? Ideally I'd like a VGA -> Component converter box but what should I look for? And is this even a good idea?

I'm basically just sick of my videos on WiiMC frame-dropping so much (even SD ones).

[Anonymous No.1409359]

>>1409292
well I'm not an expert but from what ive heard for PC on old CRTs you need it to be 15Khz. So if you dont have like an arcade graphics card, soft15khz or something like an extron emotia it wont display. I might be completely wrong tho.

[Anonymous No.1409361]

>>1407791
The monitor has a metal cage surrounding it, as well as more electronics inside.

[Anonymous No.1409363]

>>1408887
Why do you want to do this?

[Anonymous No.1409367]

>>1408940
Easier to just use an emulator, and probably closer to the original.

[Anonymous No.1409368]

>>1409363
240p looks better than 480i why wouldnt you want to do it

[Anonymous No.1409369]

>>1409058
XP is generally higher resolution, 31khz and up.

They do accept 15khz/240p input, just scale it.

[Anonymous No.1409371]

>>1409368

It doesn't look better if the game was designed for 480 lines of graphics. You're cutting out half of the detail.

If you're playing a 240p game on a system that can't display you're better off looking for a system that can, or just using an emulator, or looking for the real thing.

[Anonymous No.1409623]

why the fuck would anyone want this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PVM-5041Q-5-Trinitron-Color-Field-Monitor-120VAC-12VDC-Operation-Working-/190968618189?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c769ddccd

[Anonymous No.1409635]

>>1409623
Parts, though he's asking too much for them. You can make an offer instead of choosing buy it now. I made an offer of $45 for a nice 13" PVM that they were asking $60 for and got it.

[Anonymous No.1409662]

This trinitron is up for 60 dollars and about an hour away. How good of a tv is this?

[Anonymous No.1409667]

>>1409662
Model number is KV-36FV1

[Anonymous No.1409671]

>>1409662
I can't tell what model that is, but I have a Sony Tinitron flat tube TV and it has good composite video, for whatever that's worth. But, for $60, you might be better off saving your money since you'd be well on your way to getting a Sony PVM.

[Anonymous No.1409681]

>>1409662
It's fucking huge. You're probably not going to want to deal with a TV that size. And for that reason, you'll find a lot of people wanting to get rid of TVs that large for free. $60 is obscene.

I wouldn't recommend anything over 24" unless you've got it in a large living area and you're cool with the responsibility of moving something that massive.

[Anonymous No.1409720]

>>1409681
>I am weak and my house is small. CRTs literally frighten me.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1409728]

>>1409720
I wouldn't go saying to limit yourself to 24'' or less, but acting like a set that large isn't extremely unwieldy and difficult to move is just silly.

[Anonymous No.1409731]

I just found a 32in KV-32FV310 Trinitron 40 minutes away for 20 dollars. I know they are huge but I'm wondering if this tv is really as good as people claim.

[Anonymous No.1409741]

>>1409731
Would also like to know how rare it is to find one of these for this price. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1409746]

>>1409681
This post is funny.

Somebody is asking about the quality of a large and heavy TV, presumably knowing that it's large and heavy, and this anon only says "you probably don't want it because it's large and heavy."

[Anonymous No.1409748]

>>1409731
Very good TV, very good price.

[Anonymous No.1410082]

Picked up a Sony KV-14DA1 for cheap. Googled it and found out it was Japan only release. No component but have a D1 inputs and the Multi AV for PS1 & 2. Found out more here http://www.sony.jp/CorporateCruise/Press/200101/01-0131/

What do you guys think?

[Anonymous No.1410086]

>>1410082
Inputs at the back. I haven't tried it on PS2. SNES looks great though

[Anonymous No.1410087]

>>1410086

Look like you'll have to clean it with alcohol anon. Nice set anyway.

[Anonymous No.1410089]

>>1410087
Looks like rust - you'll need more than alcohol for that!

[Anonymous No.1410103]

>>1410087
>>1410089
Yeah, I though so too, I'm just gonna take a closer look at it and see if still works despite the condition.

[Anonymous No.1410190]

So I got my nes working after 5 years, I've been emulating during that time(mostly on led and lcd tvs/monitors). Plugged it into my trinitron and threw in punch out. The difference is remarkable. Timing was hard emulating, I made it through the first circuit untouched in 6 minutes because there was no lag whatsoever(something I never even thought would bo noticeable before). Love this tv

[Anonymous No.1410395]

I recently bought a Toshiba 14AF44 on eBay. Hope I made a good decision...

[Anonymous No.1410463]

>>1410082
D1 is component if you didn't know

[Anonymous No.1410476]

>>1410086
I think that multi out, well I guess in this case multi in, input takes RGB from what the page you linked says. Time to wire up a cable and find out

[Anonymous No.1410835]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-PVM-411-QUAD-BLACK-AND-WHITE-VIDEO-RACK-MOUNT-MONITORS-604-/121275661252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3c97bbc4

You know you want this, it has chan written all over it.

[Anonymous No.1410868]

>>1410395
You did.

[Anonymous No.1410889]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=yoBqm4ThJxw

So kawaii

[Anonymous No.1410996]

>>1410463
Yup, I know it's a component. What I mean is that it's not the traditional red/green/blue plugs that we typically see.

>>1410476
Yes, it's a multi in.

Pic related. It's what I need apparently.

[Anonymous No.1411010]

>>1410996
or you could get a regular PS cable and hook up something that uses standard output jacks on that input

[Anonymous No.1411424]

>tfw my CRT just fried itself while in the middle of a game today

RIP old friend. I'm going to feel bad dumping him off ;_; Wasn't a really great one but still far better than average so I guess it gives me a chance to get a really high end one.

[Anonymous No.1411447]

>>1409623
I have one it's adorable but it doesn't work. I only paid $5 for it

[Anonymous No.1411459]

>>1409681
>I wouldn't recommend anything over 24"

Big CRTs are boss.

[Anonymous No.1411469]

>>1410889
bad ass.

[Anonymous No.1411674]

>>1411424
>mediocre but well used CRT dies off
IKTFB, many times over

[Anonymous No.1411845]

>>1404726
>mfw my neighbors just put out a sony Trinittron
KV21 crt tv to be picked up
i would really like to pick it up myself but i live on the 5th floor of a tall apartment building and that shit is heavy. (no idea if it works)

[Anonymous No.1412606]

I love my Samsung Syncmaster.

[Anonymous No.1412627]

>>1411424
You could, you know, try and repair it...

[Anonymous No.1412641]

>>1411845
A 21" TV is small time.

[Anonymous No.1413451]

So I just got myself a PVM (20M4A) and am very happy with it so far except that when I try to play my Saturn through composite (no SCART cables yet) I'm treated to this. Thing is my Playstation, N64 and every other console I've tried on it works flawlessly and so does the Saturn on my LCD with the exact same cables. I'm confused.

[Anonymous No.1413463]

>>1413451
Don't know much about that monitor, but does it have an Ext Sync or similar button?

[Anonymous No.1413480]

>>1413463

Sure does. That wouldn't affect composite though, would it?

[Anonymous No.1413528]

>>1413480
I do not know. Just something to try I guess. I wouldn't worry too much if you have SCART cables coming. If you still can't get it to sync then would be when I would really try to figure it out.

[Anonymous No.1413552]

>>1413528

Yeah, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Once I get the SCART cables I'll likely never use the composite ones again anyway.

[Anonymous No.1413773]

>>1413451

Well now I have another problem: I have my Gamecube connected to the component inputs on the PVM as shown in pic via RCA to BNC adapters and I'm not getting a picture. No sound either. I'm sure I've done something wrong but I don't know what.

[Anonymous No.1413785]

>>1413773
Check your menu you have to manually set Color Stream, it's almost certainly defaulting to RGB

[Anonymous No.1413796]

>>1413773
Did you select component instead of RGB? It looks like there is a button on the front of the monitor.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1413801]

>>1413785
>set Color Stream, it's almost certainly defaulting to RGB
It would still display an image, just not the proper one.

Feeding component when it's expecting RGB will result in a green tinted image (assuming the sync type is correct. The inverse seems to give a pink tinted image.

[Anonymous No.1413802]

>>1413451
Some of these pro monitors need a pretty clean signal or they won't sync. Might try a different Saturn cable or different model of the system.

[Anonymous No.1413804]

>>1413785

Just had a look right through all the menus and couldn't find anything by that name. Here's a pic of the base menu.

>>1413796

I did.

[Anonymous No.1413809]

>>1413804

Whoops, forgot pic.

[Anonymous No.1413810]

>>1413809
User Config possibly?

[Anonymous No.1413818]

>>1413810

Page 1...

[Anonymous No.1413819]

>>1413818

... and 2.

[Anonymous No.1413935]

>>1413818
>>1413819

Just realised; is it possible my monitor doesn't support the signal it's getting from the GC? It's a PAL GC so I know it outputs RGB but I have no idea what the specifications are of its component output.

[Anonymous No.1413938]

>>1413935
Component is component

[Anonymous No.1413940]

>>1413938

Dang. Then I have no idea.

[Anonymous No.1413951]

Are there any ways I can record an RGB signal, either to a DVD or in a way that can interface with a modern PC or Mac?

[Anonymous No.1413982]

>>1413935
Can you change it from NTSC setup to PAL?

Are you using a SCART cable, or a Nintendo brand component cable?

Are you using a DOL-001 model Gamecube?

[Anonymous No.1413987]

>>1413982

Not sure. It seems to auto detect what type it's receiving as I have both PAL and NTSC consoles that I've used on it so far and it'll say in the corner which it is upon receiving a signal. Displays both fine. That's not quite what you meant though, is it?

As for the rest, the latter and yes.

[Anonymous No.1414031]

>>1413987
Hmmm. I wonder, does the PAL Gamecube output component? The PAL GC is unique in that it supports RGB, whereas the NTSC GC does not, but perhaps the PAL GC does not support component while the NTSC GC does?

Have you tried connecting the Gamecube to your PVM through S-video, or composite?

Worst case scenario, you may have to buy these two cables for RGB video:
http://www.robwebb1.plus.com/gamecube/gamecube.htm
http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc.html

[Anonymous No.1414060]

>>1413451
stock PAL Saturn + legit PAL game? no 4-in-1 or modchip or NTSC game or ripped game?

>>1413785
>manually set Color Stream
Really, "Color Stream?" On a PVM? My only PVM is really old with no OSD, but it sounds very strange for Sony to use that term for YPbPr. That's a Toshiba trademark.

>>1413809
What's under chroma set up?

>>1413987
Does your PAL DOL-001 + Nintendo component cable work on any other display you've tried?

[Anonymous No.1414072]

>>1414031
>Hmmm. I wonder, does the PAL Gamecube output component?

Definitely. I've used these exact same cables with this exact same GC on my LCD and also a CRT TV I used to have.

>Have you tried connecting the Gamecube to your PVM through S-video, or composite?

Composite works fine. Don't have any S-Video cables atm.

>Worst case scenario, you may have to buy these two cables for RGB video:

I've got a breakout cable coming and I'm going to be buying SCART cables for all my consoles that support it, so in that regard this isn't a big deal really. Just kind of annoying in the short term.

>>1414060
>What's under chroma set up?

OFF
ON
-AUTO ADJUST

They don't appear to make a difference.

>Does your PAL DOL-001 + Nintendo component cable work on any other display you've tried?

Yup, sure does.

[Anonymous No.1414079]

>>1414072

Oh, also

>>1414060
>stock PAL Saturn + legit PAL game? no 4-in-1 or modchip or NTSC game or ripped game?

PAL Saturn, Dodonpachi Jap import with an AR 4-in-1. Would that be an issue if the monitor supports NTSC though?

[Anonymous No.1414085]

>>1414079
Only if it's a modified rip probably but I'm just throwing ideas out there.

What happens with a PAL game?

[Anonymous No.1414091]

>>1414085
>probably
*possibly (and maybe not even that)

[Anonymous No.1414092]

I just recently got my PS1 out again, and have started playing some old games I missed out on. For some reason though, I can't get the picture in the centre of the screen on my HDTV. It always shifts down and to the right by some degree so that portions of it are cut off.

I reckon it's because PS1 wasn't designed for newer TVs, so I am planning on getting an old CRT to play it on. I wonder though, is the problem because its simply a new TV, or because its widescreen, because I don't want to get a widescreen CRT and then still have the picture not display correctly. Plus, its strange since my SNES plays on my TV just fine. Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.1414104]

Have a Trinitron since a long time and hooked up my Gamecube to it yesterday.

Noticed there are barely seeable vertical stripes, what are those?

I also play DC, NES, SNES and some other consoles on it and those don't have those stripes. Is it the cable?

[Anonymous No.1414110]

>>1412641
its gone now

[Anonymous No.1414369]

>>1413951
There are some expensive PCI cards that could do that.
But my (cheapass) method is a homemade RGB->Component transcoder connected to a USB capture device (Empia 28285).
Well, it's better than S-Video but the colors are a little bit wrong (see down half of pic) maybe due the fact that i substituted the preamp stage with a NPN+PNP transistor pair and the clamp is just a NPN transistor connected to an inverted CSYNC.
It's a good thing that i wrote a VirtualDub filter to deal with this.

[Anonymous No.1414412]

>>1414104
jailbars is what i think they are called. Ive seen em on snes and pc engine too

[Anonymous No.1414494]

>>1414104
This is pretty normal they also appear when i play gamecube games on my wii. Has something to do with the gamecube hardware and the better your tv is the more you notice them.

[Anonymous No.1414667]

>>1414412
>>1414494

That's weird, my GC is 12 years old now and it's the first time I noticed it. Though back then I had other CRT's

[Anonymous No.1414692]

>>1414104
Might be the cable, because I can do the same thing and I don't get any.

[Anonymous No.1415182]

Does component look as good as RGB?

[Anonymous No.1415184]

>>1415182
Yes

[Anonymous No.1415190]

On a sony PVM what do the Apeture and Phase knobs do? I didnt see any difference when messing with them

[Anonymous No.1415202]

>>1415184
99% as good.

Biggest difference is you'll usually be using component on a television, rather than a monitor.

Some televisions have a few subtle filters built into them to increase sharpness, reduce noise, etc. You can sometimes go into the service menu and turn these off.

[Anonymous No.1415240]

I finally got my PVM/Profeel to a TV repair place and getting it fixed for $225. The tube will be adjusted and the power supply replaced. I'm excited to have a working TV!

[Anonymous No.1415279]

>>1415190
Aperture I believe has to do with the aperture grille. From what I recall on my Ikegami monitor, adjusting it was able to make composite video look a bit sharper. With RGB I don't think it has much of, if any effect.

[Anonymous No.1415341]

>>1415202
100% ignoring displays
shifting between color spaces is lossless and electrically trivial

[Anonymous No.1415541]

>>1415240
I've very surprised an average tv repair shop tech would even know how to work on one of those.

[Anonymous No.1415545]

>>1415541
It's run by some old guy that's like 70+ years old that's been doing it since the 60s. They even had a PVM equivalent of the Profeel on the floor there.

[Anonymous No.1415562]

Is this the input for S-video? What is it supposed to look like if this isnt it?

[Anonymous No.1415570]

>>1415562

Yup, that's S-video.

[Anonymous No.1415586]

>>1415570
Alright, thanks.

Is S-video as good as it gets for the snes? I picked up a PVM-20L5 for 120 just today, but I'm not sure which inputs are which. (My first CRT for retro gaming.)

[Anonymous No.1415601]

>>1415586
>Is S-video as good as it gets for the snes?

It's a lot better than composite but the SNES outputs RGB so you can also use SCART for optimum quality. With PVMs you should be trying to use SCART as often as possible and a lot of consoles support it. Just get yourself a breakout cable and you're good to go.

[Anonymous No.1415608]

>>1415601
Breakout cable?
Here's a picture of the front/side, for anyone who wants to see.

[Anonymous No.1415618]

Grabbing this sometime this week for 19$, includes remote. 32 inch, KV-32FV300. The seller also said it comes with integrated wireless headphones (probably shit). How did i do /vr/? Time to get some S-Video cables

[Anonymous No.1415621]

>>1415618
forgot image

[Anonymous No.1415631]

>>1415608

One of these. You've got your red and white audio RCA cables that can go to the audio device of your choice (I just use some Logitech speakers myself), then you have red, green and blue BNC cables that will go into the RGB/Component inputs on your monitor, then the black BNC goes into External Sync. Now you can hook any console up to your monitor with SCART.

[Anonymous No.1415721]

American here.
Looking to get one of these fancy vidya tv doodads to put next to my PC.
I've lurked these threads in the past and so far I know that you guy's cum buckets over trinitron's,
Sony makes a lot of these things, and they are probably called PVM's (as opposed to TV's or monitors, or CRT's) but I might be wrong about that.
Besides Trinitron's, are there any I should look out for? Any buzzwords like "L@@K" and "RARE" that I should include in a wanted ad on craigslist/facebook?
What is this freaky SCART thing I see mentioned here?
And lastly is it possible to have RF/coaxial, component, composite, and S-Video on the same CRT, or is that not a thing that exists in that combination.

[Anonymous No.1415743]

>>1415721
It depends on the CRT, but some pro monitors have a variety of inputs. though if you are getting this you are generally only going to want to use RGB or component, PVMs are not the only kind out there. Sony makes other types of pro CRT monitors, as do other companies (Ikegami and NEC are two others that have some decent CRTs). SCART is going to be the cable that you use for RGB. Some consoles support it natively, others require mods. As mentioned earlier you will need a breakout cable to plug the SCART into in order to have the correct BNC plugs for RGB and sync (and the standard red and white plugs for audio).

Be wary of who you buy from, and try to confirm the amount of burn-in, color quality, geometry, etc of the monitor. Manufacture date, hours of use, location of use are also nice to know if you can get it. Always good to see them in person, or try to get it from a seller who appears to know what they are doing, especially if you have it shipped.

[Anonymous No.1415749]

>>1415743
(the other notable one that Sony makes is the BVM, but I believe those can get rather pricey)

[Anonymous No.1415759]

>>1415601
Isn't SCART usually 50hz? Does the NTSC SNES output RGB over a euro SCART cable in 60hz?

Why do people RGB mod their systems if they can just use a cable?

[Anonymous No.1415779]

>>1415759
NTSC works fine via RGB with a SCART cable.

People mod SNES Minis for RGB since some feel it outputs a better quality RGB image. See:

http://retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html

Also, one thing to note is the middle band of shit on SNES consoles. There are also mods to reduce this, but I think the general consensus seems to be that it tends to be less visible on Minis. Though, I do believe some complain of graphics glitches on the Mini (not sure of the 1CHIP?).

[Anonymous No.1415780]

>>1415743
I was going to attempt getting one locally.
I figure that if I dont find one within a few weeks then I'll be able to grab one of the hundreds of TV's people offer up for free on facebook and craigslist, and use it until I do come across a better one..
I use a generic (Emerson I think) 20" CRT out in my gaming area right now, But thats not in the same room as my computer. And I spend so much time at my pc that I dont get around to retro vidya as much as I should. Or Modern vidya for that matter, I've touched my PS3 maybe 10 times since I bought it, and 8 of those were just me dicking around on GTA 4.

And this SCART thing, I think I remember hearing that its really common in France. Does that mean its just not used much in the states, or is mostly just used in professional/high end equipment.

[Anonymous No.1415787]

>>1415779
Mini owner here.
Video quality is slightly better, but unnoticeable unless doing a side by side comparison.
No graphical glitches to date, however its fairly common for them to not have that great of pins. I usually have to shove old library cards behind the carts to get them to play right.
Also the whole "hold down the console to remove the game cause its too light" thing gets really annoying, really quick.

[Anonymous No.1415789]

>>1415780
As far as I know SCART isn't used at all in the US. Maybe some have it? But even these pro monitors don't that's why you need the breakout cable to connect the necessary SCART pins to the monitor.

[Anonymous No.1415808]

>>1415759

Silly question here maybe, but what is the difference between 50 and 60hz anyway? What's the result for the user?

[Anonymous No.1415969]

>>1415586
>PVM-20L5 for 120 just today

[Anonymous No.1415986]

>>1413451
>>1413773

Me again. I've solved both problems. The Saturn works now. I think its cable is just a bit touchy is all, and as for component on the GC I just stuck the yellow lead into Ext. Sync. I probably should have mentioned that the component cables on the GC are just for picture and only carry R/G/B. You still need the composite cable for sound and, I guess, sync. Oh well, lesson learned.

[Anonymous No.1416073]

>>1415986
>You still need the composite cable for sound and, I guess, sync.
>Sound
That's correct

>sync
I wonder if it's possible if your model won't accept sync on green; My gamecube works fine with just the component cable.

[Anonymous No.1416090]

>>1416073

I can't comment on that as far as GCs in general go but mine certainly doesn't carry sync on green, as I first assumed.

[Anonymous No.1416103]

>>1416090
I run mine(along with my PS2 and Wii) through a switcher, and then into the second RGB/YPbPr input on my 20M2MDU, which obviously isn't using it's Sync line.

Not sure if it would change anything, but it is an NTSC model.

[Anonymous No.1416127]

>>1416103
>Not sure if it would change anything, but it is an NTSC model.

The monitor or the GC?

[Anonymous No.1416229]

>>1416127
Both. Though I'm pretty sure the PVM itself is capable of accepting PAL signals, so that shouldn't affect anything.

[Anonymous No.1416253]

>>1416229

That's why I asked. My GC being PAL could very well be the issue though. Wouldn't surprise me at all, but I'll be getting SCART for it soon and component works in the mean time so it's all good.

[Anonymous No.1416271]

>>1415618
>>1415621
ice

[Anonymous No.1416272]

>>1416271
(by which of course I mean, "nice")

[Anonymous No.1416619]

>>1415780
>And this SCART thing, I think I remember hearing that its really common in France.
Germany too. I only saw like 3 TVs (1 was very old and the others were ultra cheap garbage), while the others (+50) had at least one RGB capable input.

[Anonymous No.1416625]

>>1416619
>like 3 TVs
* without SCART

[Anonymous No.1416917]

>>1415780
SCART is the default connection in Europe for SD content. It's legally required on televisions in several countries(I think it might be an EU requirement these days so most of the continent then) to have a SCART input. I as a britbong haven't seen a TV without one for years and the only ones I have seen without were ancient and from the 70s(or really cheap 14 inch sets from the late 80s).
I have no idea why it didn't catch on in the USA since there's so few downsides to it and MUH RGB

[Anonymous No.1417008]

Should I get this TV for retro + wii gaming?

27" Toshiba widescreen CRT. Does anyone know the specs on this?

It's only costing me 20$

[Anonymous No.1417035]

>>1417008
Nothing really retro is widescreen. I have a slightly larger Toshiba and I don't like it. Laggy and the phosphor array is lower resolution on the left and right sides. It looks horrible once you notice it, so it's not great for films either.

[Anonymous No.1417428]

>>1415721
A display doesn't have to have a Trinitron/aperture grille tube to be good, it's just an easy way to tell that you're not getting something inherently inferior.

>SCART
European SD cable standard that can carry many different signal types. People like it because it can carry an RGB signal. Japan has a similar but incompatible standard. Analog RGB was never a standard signal type outside of computer use in the U.S.

>possible to have RF/coaxial, component, composite, and S-Video on the same CRT
Sure, you can get something like that in the form of an SDTV or HDTV. For retro, you'd prefer an SDTV between the two. If you give up RF, you can look at some SD pro monitors too.

>>1415759
"SCART" is just a cable type and doesn't care about refresh rate. NTSC devices output 60 Hz across all signal types.

>>1415808
50 Hz refresh is more flickery than 60 Hz. PAL countries settled on it in order to use their bandwidth on higher resolution and color data.

>>1415986
>sync
Everyone who replied to you knows how GCN component cables work. What's odd is that you are describing very strange behavior, where your monitor expected RGBS and you were somehow feeding it RGB without sync using your GCN component cables. Nobody else needs to connect composite for sync (or is getting RGB via the digital out).

Out of curiosity, can you take a pic of your component cable? Otherwise, can you say how much they were and where/when you bought them? Does the console-side connector look like there are any signs of tampering?

>>1416073
>sync on green
This takes on a nonsensical but hurmorous meaning in a YPbPr context given the plug color on which sync is carried.

[Anonymous No.1417435]

>>1417428
>(or is getting RGB via the digital out)
self-correction since I made that sound terribaly misleading: You actually can get RGB out of the GameCube's digital out. But an *unmodified* component cable should not be able to allow that, which is why I asked about tampering.

>>1417008
I have several large Toshibas. That one is an HDTV for sure, looks like either a 30HF84 or 85. I've owned 85s before, and they all had a serious problem with red delay. If it's an 84 or earlier you should be okay for non-retro and $20 would be a great buy for that. For retro, no.

>>1417035
My 2004 flat SD Toshiba is nothing like this, nor do my 2002 flat HD Toshibas have any lag at 480p or 1080i since they are multisync. (480i lags because it is deinterlaced.) The lower res on the sides of those flat HD Toshibas is noticeable but not a problem for me because film is naturally softer with almost no straight lines ever; so I actually love them for film. It can be more noticeable with "retro" platformers on HD consoles or news tickers due to slightly unnatural elongation and curvature of some straight horizontal elements, but I don't use them for that so there's no problem.

As for widescreen SDTVs, I think both Japan and Europe got some. We never did in the U.S. No idea if Toshiba ever made one for either market.

[Anonymous No.1417436]

analyze my crt

[Anonymous No.1417443]

>>1417436
Looks like the chroma interferes with the luma signal.
Could be caused by bad or wrong s-video cables or the wrong setting (using composite as s-video).

[Anonymous No.1417448]

>>1417443
i have an svideo/av dreamcast cable hooked up into one of these, would i be better of just plugging it into the yellow and white av port in the front ? no s video input on this sadly

[Anonymous No.1417484]

>>1417448
>that thing
>s-video
>scart

What the fuck are you doing

[Anonymous No.1417617]

>>1416917
We Americans do seem to have a habit of choosing and sticking to dumb standards.

[Anonymous No.1417803]

>>1416917
>>1417617
I suspect the reason why we Americans didn't adopt SCART is probably because the connector is huge compared to F connectors and RCA jacks that we had already adopted.

For the record, the F connector is the worst jack design in history. Even twin-lead is less of a hassle to use, and you need a screwdriver for it. I don't know why the hell we didn't just go with BNC for RF.

[Anonymous No.1417812]

Part of me is kinda glad I didn't have RGB growing up. It is seriously almost like seeing games again for the first time.

[Anonymous No.1417934]

>>1417812
I know right? Isn't it great?

[Anonymous No.1418057]

how do you guys take pictures of your CRTs? Im trying to do mine and I get the black lines fucking it up every time

[Anonymous No.1418071]

>>1417803
What's worse, those screws become hard to turn, especially at an uncomfortable angle and in a small narrow space. It wasn't until recently where they made RF jacks where the screwable area was much longer and easier to grip.

[Anonymous No.1418073]

>>1417436
Looks good for a shadow mask

[Anonymous No.1418081]

>>1417812
I had a similar revelation in my teens when I used S-video on a nice TV for the first time after a childhood of composite and RF. KABOOM went my brain.

[Anonymous No.1418297]

>>1417803

Oh hi.

[Anonymous No.1418305]

>>1418297
I had a tool for that, it was never an issue for me.

[Anonymous No.1418309]

>>1418297
>>1417803

I never had any problem with RF, as we have a different kind of antenna plug, that look like an RCA one.

[Anonymous No.1418331]

Hey guys, I have a CRT for my retro games and a cheapish LCD for netflix and more recent systems

Should I hook up the PS2 and Gamecube to the CRT or the LCD? I don't know which is more appropriate for them.

The CRT doesn't have component input, I don't think.

[Anonymous No.1418401]

>>1418331
>The CRT doesn't have component input
Sounds like a CRT SDTV then.

So the CRT is probably better unless the LCD is native 480p *and* you only play games with progressive scan *and* its refresh rate is low. If it's a cheapy, the CRT is probably much better suited. Use S-video if you can.

[Anonymous No.1418525]

So I got a Sony xbr960 for $20 but I noticed that there is a bit of input lag when playing Wii games in 480p. is there any way to remove said lag?

[Anonymous No.1418527]

>>1418525
>$20
Jelly

I would think a set like that would have some sort of pro mode, where it cuts out most of its image processing.

[Anonymous No.1418534]

>>1418527
I browsed through the menus but I didn't see anything of the sort though I will check again when I'm not being lazy. I've also been through this service menu and people have said that you can reduce lag by turning off a certain setting but it only works for 1080p, anybody have any clue why is that?

[Anonymous No.1418537]

>>1418534
1080i I mean

[Anonymous No.1418663]

>>1418534
That may be where the option is located. I don't have any experience with the XBR line, so I can't say.

[Anonymous No.1419728]

I bought rgb-scart cable for ps1-3, and for some reason it has switch between composite and RGB outputs, why?

I was also surprised how good my ps3 looks on my (non-hd)crt, even though everyone says it looks like ass and unplayable, and that text is unreadable, but I dont see the problem other than not being HD, which doesnt really matter since many games are sub 720p anyway

[Anonymous No.1420141]

I need a TV to set up on a shelf next to my computer.
Currently I'm using an extremely shitty lcd flatscreen. its got all the ports I need, including VGA, but it makes games look like complete shit.
I have no issues with a CRT, and prefer to use them for /vr/ (dem lightgun's).
But I need to be able to play modern vidya on it too, and idk how good a CRT would be with that. Especially games with smaller text like forza 3. Last time I tried that on a CRT, everything was completely illegible.
can anyone comment on how well ps3/360 holds up on one of those?

[Anonymous No.1420859]

Where do I get me one o' dem fancy grids to display on my PVM to test and calibrate it.

[Anonymous No.1420887]

[Anonymous No.1420907]

http://youtu.be/zpkh7_Eyctw

How does this make you feel

[Anonymous No.1421001]

>>1420887
The left is a SCART cable, which could be carrying any number of different signal types, be it composite, s-video, RGB, or component.

The right is an adapter to let you use composite RCA cables with a TV that has a SCART connection.

>>1420859
Various calibration suite DVDs, or for something a bit more retro vidya centric, 240p Test Suite.
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

[Anonymous No.1421005]

>>1420887
Maybe, or maybe not. A look inside the SCART plug can determine how well it's made.

>>1420907
If someone would attempt to invent a cure for stupidity, then i would support him.

[Anonymous No.1421007]

>>1421001
>Various calibration suite DVDs, or for something a bit more retro vidya centric, 240p Test Suite.
>http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

Wonderful. Thank you!

[Anonymous No.1421361]

>>1420907
>retarded britbong
>setting up what could turn into a bomb
>going on about xray's
>says he doesnt want to be in the room
>stands next to it with a camera anyways
is this what it's like to live in the 3rd world?
>bit much innit eh m8?

[Anonymous No.1421385]

>>1421001
>calibration suite DVD

Does anyone know where I could get one of these?

[Anonymous No.1421436]

Guys, i made an comparison of an crappy/cheap LCD (neighbor came over, apparently it turns off) and my KV-C2521D.
First i couldn't adjust the settings (no remote) and i first connected my SNES via a homemade component converter (>>1414369) and then directly over SCART.
However, here's very blurry pic from the intro of Super Turrican (50hz) with my component converter.
The lag is less than expected but still there. You can see it barely on the upper left corner.

[Anonymous No.1421442]

>>1421436
Now, a closeup of the (30hz) flicker effect of Trip World (world 3).
Look at these sweet scanlines of my KV-C2521D.

[Anonymous No.1421447]

>>1421442
That damn LCD with component.
It's very surprising that it displays the 240p signal as progressive.

[Anonymous No.1421452]

finally got around to taking a shitty pic of my PVM

this is the metal slug 3 on wii VC with the wii hooked up via component

[Anonymous No.1421453]

>>1421447
And now, it's time to lose your shit.
Almost the same thing but it's directly connected to my SNES via SCART.

[Anonymous No.1421468]

>>1421453
Afterwards i tried to switch back to component, and just like i expected it: The damn thing fucked out.
The screen was very pink even if only Y was connected (how and where does that color come from???).
This picture sums up the whole thing, only dumb faggots play their /vr/ on LCD TVs.
And i don't believe that my converter is causing this, because i tested thoroughly with my capture device.
btw the LCD: FUNAI LT6-M19WB/3

[IaTM No.1421481]

>>1420907
What's that fucking chav doing?

[Anonymous No.1421838]

>>1418401
Apparently I was fucking wrong, hadn't gone back there in a while, it DOES have component input.

It's a Panasonic Tau. Flat glass. Is this a CRT HDTV? It seems okay for retro stuff though there's some wobbliness with the lines, it's very faintly unsteady.

Would it still be better for PS2 and GC than the LCD?

[Anonymous No.1421919]

>>1420907
fuck yeah photonicinduction

[Anonymous No.1421921]

>>1421838
There are both SD and HD Taus, and some of the SD models have component inputs. You're going to need a model number to tell.

[Anonymous No.1421926]

>>1421921
It's a CT-27SC14mj, but I can't find any more info with that online

[Anonymous No.1421960]

>>1421926
SDTV c.2004
you can turn off SVM and adjust color temp to warm
looks like a winner to me, boss

[Anonymous No.1421975]

>>1421960
>>1421960
sounds rad, will turning off SVM fix the faint wiggly-wibble it's doing or should I try something else for it

[Anonymous No.1421995]

>>1421975
It shouldn't, but you should do it anyway to make sure your horizontal geometry and vertical edges aren't screwed up.

[Anonymous No.1422017]

Can I somehow burn a CD/DVD for the PS2 with pictures on it for the sake of geometry adjustment?

[Anonymous No.1422192]

>>1421442
>>1421447

This is a beautiful comparison. Not to mention ironic because the native screen type for the game is LCD.

[Anonymous No.1422420]

>>1422017
There's always Avia a THX movie or Digital video essentials

[Anonymous No.1423169]

What is the biggest size I should stay under for 4-player splitscreen on an N64 to a Dreamcast?

Craigslist is raining with CRT tvs lately and I'm thinking of getting a dedicated one for my retro consoles.

[Anonymous No.1423209]

>>1423169
>What is the biggest size
Big enough to see from where you plan on sitting.

>Dreamcast
It's /vr/-safe now. Check the sticky.

[Anonymous No.1424480]

[Anonymous No.1424578]

RGB for dummies/Americans:

Step 1: Buy European RGB cable for your game console
Step 2: Buy Syncstrike:
http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/Sync-Strike::15.html
Step 3: Plug VGA cable into your TV or monitor.

This ensures perfect output.

[Anonymous No.1424661]

What should I do with my old IBM color monitor?

[Anonymous No.1424664]

>>1405118

Any update on this?

[Anonymous No.1424692]

>>1424661
The post above yours.

[Anonymous No.1424706]

>>1424578
Uh huh... Go ahead and post some pics of your setup where that is working without any additional line doublers or upscalers...

[Anonymous No.1424802]

>>1424578
Only works if the Display devices support 15khz. Going to need an upscaler unless you have a PVM or similar.

[Anonymous No.1424832]

Is it possible to get progressive scan out of old consoles?

[Anonymous No.1424852]

>>1424578
the Sync strike is not an rgb to vga converter you fucking stupid fucking idiot

[Anonymous No.1424856]

>>1424802
It doesn't convert rgbs to rgbhv. The lm1881 IC that runs the thing only outputs composite sync and vertical sync. It will not work if you plug it into a vga monitor.

[Anonymous No.1424859]

>>1424692
But it doesn't support 15khz.

[Anonymous No.1424870]

>>1424706
>>1424802
>>1424852
>>1424856
>>1424859
Does anyone know of a VGA->HDMI that only upscales with nearest neighbor?

[Anonymous No.1424878]

>>1418309

Those things are prone to interference/fuzz because they don't make contact as solidly as the screw-down connectors. I remember having to wiggle them into just the right position to get the picture as clear as possible, then make sure nothing ever touches the connector or cord afterward.

[Anonymous No.1424880]

>>1424870
what are you trying to do?
explain more

[Anonymous No.1424942]

>>1424832
All old consoles do (at 240p). But I assume you mean 480p. You cannot force them to 480p.

[Anonymous No.1424960]

>>1424942
Ah, interesting. Thanks. I wonder if we called it "progressive scan" instead of "RGB", it would've been a more popular thing for SNES/Genesis fans.

[Anonymous No.1426210]

I just got a 20L5 off Craigslist yesterday and spent an hour or so fiddling with the service menu(And making sure to write down all the default variables, of which there're a ton of). Needless to say it's breathtaking. I've been sitting on BNC-to-RCA converters for years waiting to find a PVM and the wait was so worth it. It's tough to put in words how good it really looks and pictures don't do it nearly the justice they deserve.

Thank you again Steve if you happen to lurk

[Anonymous No.1426218]

>>1426210
And for kicks, this is what it looked like on my old no-name CRT that had component (Which unfortunately kicked the bucket a few weeks ago). I never realized how bloated the geometry was on this thing until comparing the pictures. It really makes a hell of a difference.

[Anonymous No.1426224]

>>1426210
And for kicks, this is what it looked like on my old no-name CRT that had component (Which unfortunately kicked the bucket a few weeks ago). I never realized how bloated the geometry was on this thing until comparing the pictures. It really makes a hell of a difference.

[Anonymous No.1426228]

So, is soft 15khz only for arcade monitors and VGA>SCART conversion, or is it something I'll need to keep from frying my TV if my graphics card has composite/S-Video outs already?

[Anonymous No.1426237]

>>1407683
I'd say not to play the same game for hours at a time, either, lest you get health bars or crosshairs burnt into the screen, even without pausing.

[Anonymous No.1426568]

>>1426228
It won't work on the TV output of any card. TV outputs have their own built-in hardware encoders that you can barely do anything with outside of what the basic driver will allow you to do.

[Anonymous No.1426770]

>neighbor gave me his CRT today
>it's fucking amazing

Pictures once I got time alone.

[Anonymous No.1426830]

>>1410190
I didn't notice input lag until I plugged in Street Fighter II Turbo on SNES last week only to find that Sagat didn't want to do Tiger knee.

[Anonymous No.1426943]

>>1426770

It's a Toshiba. Haven't really checked the model (cause honestly even putting it on my desk and turning it around really threw out my left arm), it's about 32' inches

But the resolution and audio on the thing is fucking beautiful. Have played mostly Wii games on it, but there's no doubt it'll be beautiful with my older systems.

[Anonymous No.1426985]

>>1426943
>old Toshiba
Winner!

[Anonymous No.1427040]

>>1426985

Old Toshiba CRTs good?

>not too savvy when it comes to TV brands/quality

[Anonymous No.1427057]

>>1427040
Yes, up until 2004 or so. After that they sourced their CRT production out to a third party. That only lasted a couple years before they stopped selling CRTs anyway.

[IaTM No.1427151]

>>1427057
Fuck, my Toshiba's from 2005. It's a 26HF84A

[Anonymous No.1427173]

Hey dudes, my local pawn shop has a Sony Trinitron for 10 bucks. The thing is, they say that the 'VIDEO 1' text stays on screen. Do you guys know if there's an easy fix for this? Would it be as simple as getting a universal remote and hitting display? It didn't have the remote btw. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1427297]

>>1427173
The text is very likely burnt-in as opposed to just needing to be turned off. It's possible to fix it by displaying an inverse image, but it would have to be 1:1 exact and I imagine this would be fairly difficult to recreate perfectly. Overall it's just not worth the effort unless you really know how to deal with CRTs.

[Anonymous No.1427410]

>>1427297
Interesting. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.1427518]

[Anonymous No.1427568]

Is there such a thing as a widescreen crt that isn't hd? I'm curious because some n64 games supported widescreen but almost every tv that is widescreen would upscale it.

[Anonymous No.1427579]

>>1427518
Yes.

You're more likely to find a fullscreen model with a 16:9 mode though.

[Anonymous No.1427601]

>>1427151
That may or may not be a non-Toshiba, but since it's an 84 you should be OK unless you're seeing the red delay problems I saw on my 85s (>>1417435). It was with the 85s that the problem became widely reported. Many people claimed that the 84s were OK and were in fact some of the best HDTVs they'd ever used, but nobody ever clarified definitively whether the larger 84s were Toshiba-built or not, and I've never owned an 84.

>>1427173
As described to you it might be burn-in like >>1427297 said, but it also might be just a case of a permanently-on OSD as you suspected. An Australian anon in a recent /crt/ thread claimed that he had a permanently-on OSD on his Trinitron but didn't have an OEM remote to turn it off (and supposedly the universals he tried didn't work). Also, it's possible that model might display the input label until a signal is detected like the later HD Trinitrons do, and the pawn shop might not have tried testing it extensively enough.

[Anonymous No.1427602]

>>1427579
Meant for
>>1427568

[Anonymous No.1427701]

Remember fellow CRT /vr/eaks of all age, that the consoles listed don't need a mod to output RGB!

Anyway, I got a hand on a Sony PVM 1444QM, and it has "Super Fine Pitch" under the trinitron logo. How good is that?

[Anonymous No.1427713]

>>1427701
>"Super Fine Pitch"
>How good is that?
Very. It has more "TV lines" (improved horizontal resolution ) so it will look sharper without doing anything to screw up your scanlines (affecting vertical resolution). Congrats!

[Anonymous No.1427732]

>>1427568
Yes, mine is 576i and its damn good for 5-6th gen and even in some cases 7th gen too, older consoles/4:3 has their own problems but looks good enough for me


>old pic is old, wii with rgb-scart

[Anonymous No.1427779]

So I'm thinking about getting a Sega Master system and modding it to have a 60/50hz switch. Will the 50hz display correctly on my Trinitron model KV-27FV300? Its a north american tv.

[Spoiler] I didn't take the picture I found it online, its the same model [/spoiler]

[Anonymous No.1427781]

>>1427779
I'm not speaking from direct experience with that model specifically, but no, you shouldn't expect it to work.

[Anonymous No.1427782]

So I'm thinking about getting a Sega Master system and modding it to have a 60/50hz switch. Will the 50hz display correctly on my Trinitron model KV-27FV300? Its a north american tv.

I didn't take the picture I found it online, its the same model [\spoiler]

[Anonymous No.1428667]

I made a pastebin for basic CRT knowledge (plus some video signal shit). Keep it in the OP to avoid common questions and misconceptions.

http://pastebin.com/HnXaJa7F

[Anonymous No.1428730]

>>1428667
Only some friendly suggestions:
It only mentions 60hz resolutions aka 240p and 480i.
Could you write something like 240p/288p and 480i/576i for the eurofags?
I think that 240p60/288p50 and 480i60/576i50 is also good and precise but it's a bit long.
240p/288p could be also referred as 'non-interlaced' and 480i/576i as 'interlaced'.

>There's no difference in the RGB signal compared to VGA
That's not so correct. VGA is DC coupled at 0V (black level is 0V) and SCART (and possibly BNC) is AC coupled by default (black level voltage varies).
So you should write that a VGA output should be compatible with the others (if the timing fits) but a VGA input could be incompatible with AC coupled signals.

You should mention that SDTVs without digital processing are compatible with light guns, everything else isn't.

Also you could write something about overscan and geometry adjustments and issues.

However the rest is fine and correct. Good job anon.

[Anonymous No.1428735]

>>1427782
>Will 50hz display on a North American TV?
LoL - Yes of course... But I'm curious how you got a North American TV when I can't find a TV with SCART on it here to save my life.

[IaTM No.1428782]

>>1428735
>LoL - Yes of course
...but it may look like this. It's my camera feeding my TV a PAL signal. It's the only camera I have, so I'm forced to take a picture of its own output.

The picture didn't go as planned, but my TV displays PAL as B/W and shifted downward by a significant degree.

[Anonymous No.1428847]

>a slight tilt to the screen monitor

Happened with my last TV, happens with this one too.
Everything is fine on the left side but begins a upward tilt as you move further right. It isn't completely jarring, but you can notice it if you take the time to look. (cut off menu borders)

[Anonymous No.1428869]

>>1427782
>>1428735
>>1428782
You would normally expect a PAL/50 signal on an NTSC/60 display to give you a rolling image.

[Anonymous No.1429650]

>>1428667
>http://pastebin.com/HnXaJa7F
>HD CRT TVs are almost as bad as LCDs for old games.

This is true for televisions, but not necessarily monitors. PC monitors, for instance, don't have this problem.

However, something that's bugged me since I heard about it is the PVM-20L5, which supports high resolutions such as 480p, 720p, and 1080i and I could never find any experiences describing lag from these. Now that I finally have one I can personally attest that there is no lag whatsoever on this model at any resolution and I have never seen a better screen to play 480p games on. It looks and plays beautifully. 720p and 1080i are a bit unneccessary since it's a 4:3 20" monitor but nice to have as bonuses in any case. I really can't recommend it enough; as far as I've seen it's definitely the PVM to look out for if you're interested in one. It's a very versatile piece of hardware.

[Anonymous No.1429665]

>>1428667
>http://pastebin.com/HnXaJa7F
>N Connector
Might want to include a picture of an F connector as well.

[Anonymous No.1429668]

>>1429650
>HD CRT TVs are almost as bad as LCDs for old games.
>This is true for televisions
Not all CRT HDTVs. Some are multisync and have zero lag if you feed them native res. But for retro this doesn't matter.

480p+ is irrelevant pertaining retro anyway.

[IaTM No.1429672]

>>1429665
But I've beaten Punch-Out on mine.

[Anonymous No.1429673]

>>1429668
>480p+ is irrelevant pertaining retro anyway.
Dreamcast's addition to the /vr/ roster of topics makes that incorrect.

>>1429672
What?

[IaTM No.1429674]

>>1429673
Misquoted, meant for >>1428667. as I have an HD CRT.

[Anonymous No.1429710]

>>1429673
Well then allow me to correct myself.

>Greater than 480p is irrelevant pertaining retro anyway.

[Anonymous No.1429716]

>>1429710
>Not hooking your PC up to a CRT to play games in SVGA

[Anonymous No.1429767]

>>1429668
>480p+ is irrelevant pertaining retro anyway.

Thousands of PC games say otherwise, as well as Dreamcast and arcade games.

[Anonymous No.1429773]

>>1428730

What difference does the black level voltage make?

I have noticed sometimes when I connect a PC via VGA>RGBHV cable to a RGB monitor the image can be rather "flat" compared to when I run a console through the composite or S-video connection.

[Anonymous No.1429783]

>>1429767
trumped on the Dreamcast and PC, you got me on the arcade games

>>1429773
It establishes the shade of the blackest black in use by the display. If your source and your display are set differently either way, you will either see black crush or gray blacks.

[Anonymous No.1430267]

>>1429773
An input that accepts a AC signal has a clamp which bring the black level to an specific voltage, this is also compatible with DC coupled signals.
It is possible that a device with a VGA input only accepts DC signals, which means that it expects the black level on 0V because it doesn't have a clamp.

[Anonymous No.1430378]

So can anyone tell me WHY are CRTs better for retro games compared to modern screens? Nostalgia factor aside.

[Anonymous No.1430380]

>>1430378
They display the games in their original resolution, without ugly pixelated upscaling or artifacts.

[Anonymous No.1430385]

>>1430380
Do you have an article or something? With detailed explanation, examples etc.

[Anonymous No.1430392]

>>1430378
Most important thing is the flicker, so they can display motion without sample-and-hold blur.

Also zero latency.

[Anonymous No.1430395]

>>1430385
Nope, just something I've picked up on, and something I've noticed myself. I wondered for a long time why my old games looked like ass, until I actually dug out my SDTV and hooked it up.

Note though, if you have an LCD screen that can actually display 240p resolutions, it will look right, as well. Problem is that LCD screens that old have atrocious ghosting and picture quality.

[Anonymous No.1430403]

>>1430378

They are better for many things that aren't retro games too. They typicaly:
- Display the signal at a native resolution and don't upscale it like LCD does.
- Have warmer and more natural and accurate colors, along with better contrasts.
- The blackest black you'll ever get on a display device along with plasma monitors.
- Smoother animations thanks to the flickering, which is better for your brain than LCDs and Plasmas Sample & Hold, and only strain your eyes if your room doesn't have a proper lighting and/or if you're too close to the screen.

You can read this:
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-gb/library/windows/hardware/gg463407.aspx#EUG

[Anonymous No.1430413]

>>1430378
See >>1421442 and >>1421453 .
That damn LCD (and many other modern TVs) displays non-interlaced as interlaced, this results into stronger lag (2 fields 32ms/40ms or more), ugly artifacts (see pic) on high motion and flicker effects.
This LCD displayed 15khz non-interlaced only correctly and fluid when i used a RGB->Component converter (>>1421447) which is fucking horseshit, the lag was less but still there. Also light guns only work on CRTs without digital processing.

[Anonymous No.1430697]

>>1430378
They look better. Nostalgia factor aside.

[Anonymous No.1430743]

How does FW900 compare to modern IPS monitors such as FS2333? I've been considering getting one, but they're very hard to get here and the cheapest is priced at 300€.

[Anonymous No.1431404]

>mfw my sony G500 died and I have to use an LCD

no, no...

my baby

[Anonymous No.1432212]

>>1405241
Did you draw lines on that thing? Everybody knows crts didn't actually have scanlines.

[Anonymous No.1432218]

>>1432212

[Anonymous No.1432232]

>>1432212

Of course they did, even shadow mask ones.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1432593]

>get SCART switch on Monday
>no male->male to connect it to my breakout cable
>male->male cable just came in the mail
>hook SNES(only system I currently have a SCART cable for) up to switcher, and check to make sure it works

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1432614]

>>1432593
Thankfully, I can grab sync from the switch's RCA composite out.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1432645]

>>1432614
I think I'll stick to SF64 for now

[Anonymous No.1433026]

Where can I buy a crt besides craigslist and ebay. Craigslist doesn't have shit, and my paypal has been limited for awhile.

[Anonymous No.1433073]

>>1433026
A high end one like a PVM? You're pretty much stuck with craigslist and eBay. A standard television such as a nice, late Trinitron with component and s-video inputs? You can probably get lucky at a thrift store.

[Anonymous No.1433558]

Hey /crt/, I just finished pulling my Sony Trinitron PVM-20M2MDU monitor out of its packaging, and I find that the thing lacks a power cord. Assuming the seller doesn't come up with a cord for me, where can I find a power cord for it? I don't have any idea where to look.

Pic related, it's a picture of the monitor from the ebay listing

[Anonymous No.1433587]

>>1433558
Dont these things just use the standard 3 prong plugs that computers use?

[Anonymous No.1433635]

>>1433587
Yeah. Pretty much all PVMs do. You probably have a handful lying around as is.

[Anonymous No.1433756]

>>1433558
How much did you offer for it? I'm curious because I've seen that listing a few times and if I can get the cost low enough, I may make an offer on it.

[Anonymous No.1433906]

Just bought a PVM-20m4u for $150 (including shipping) from eBay. Was I bamboozled?

[Anonymous No.1433907]

>>1433635
>>1433587
Thanks, I ought to have a spare from an old computer somewhere around here.

>>1433756
I offered $150 and they took it right away, and the shipping was a little over $50. I was actually really impressed with how they packaged it, they didn't skimp on the bubble wrap.

[Anonymous No.1433923]

>>1433907
>Tekyard
They'd have likely taken significantly less.

They really do know how to pack though. I still have the 5 rolls of bubble wrap around here somewhere.

[Anonymous No.1433935]

Show me your moves my dear CRT friends.

Can you diagnose what is wrong with my Trinitron?

[Anonymous No.1433939]

>>1433935
This stupid little squiggle and the out of place geometry infuriates me endlessly.

[Anonymous No.1433947]

>>1433935
>>1433939
One last picture.

[Anonymous No.1433948]

>>1433907
>>1433923
I think I'll try making them an offer.

Speaking of excellent wrapping, the guy I got my PVM-1353MD from sent it in a box with form fitted foam that surrounded the entire PVM in at least 8 inches of foam on every side. That $47 shipping was a pretty good deal.

[Anonymous No.1433954]

>>1433906
You got yours $50 cheaper than I did overall, you did ok I think.

>>1433587
>>1433635
Success! I scrounged up a cord and the PVM powers on! Of course I've got nothing to test it with at the moment, I only just ordered cables yesterday.

[Anonymous No.1433961]

>>1433906
No, actually. Shipping included that's a very good deal. They're pretty much a step above the 20M2MDU. The M4U has 800 TV lines, the M2MDU has 600. Basically it's a sharper, nicer looking image.

[Anonymous No.1433973]

>>1433935
>>1433939
>>1433947

I just want lines to be straight. This is especially annoying for games that use text boxes like Final Fantasy.

[Anonymous No.1433982]

>>1433973
You may be able to go into the service menu of the TV with a secret combination on the remote (Look up the model number and you can probably find it easily). I don't know how in-depth the Trinitron TVs' service menus are, but hopefully you should be able to fiddle with the geometry enough so that it's not nearly as noticeable. Just make absolutely sure that, if you do, you write down the previous values of whatever you changed incase you mess something up.

[Anonymous No.1433990]

>>1433973
>>1433982
And just because I have nothing better to do, here it is:
http://www.agoraquest.com/viewtopic.php?forum=25&topic=3234

Again, I cannot stress enough how important it is to write down as much as you can. You can fuck up the geometry even worse than it already is if you're not careful and don't write the initial values down.

[Anonymous No.1434034]

>>1433982
>>1433990

Thank you very much for your help... I'll play with it as much as I can.

One other thing, on my other set I have a problem with discoloured dark spots in the corners of the screen similar to pic.

Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.1434045]

>>1433954
>>1433961

Thanks guys! I was over at work all day with regret sitting at the bottom of my stomach, thinking "man, I fucked up" over and over again because I remember people posting in the other CRT general threads how they got their sets for like $80-$100 including shipping, but couldn't remember the models they got.
But now you have removed any doubt from my mind regarding the price.

However, I still am in doubt as far as whether a PVM being a better choice than a computer CRT (runs at a double refresh rate to allow for unscaled 15khz resolutions, higher dot pitch, capable of native 31khz as well) in my case is concerned. I plan on emulating my games since I have none of the consoles, (actually, I think I still might have the second US SNES model, but not sure if it works and it hasn't been modded to output RGB yet), buy consoles with flashcarts is a bit pricey now - not to mention the SNES flashcarts can't simulate the SA1 chip (is this still a problem?), and I can centralize all my games in one device.

I've been doing research and found out that computers output square pixels and older consoles rectangular ones to have their various SARs match up with the 4:3 DAR of CRT TV sets at the time. Do emulators automatically rescale the native resolution to a 4:3 in order to output square pixels, thereby losing quality and adding in more preprocessing, affecting input lag? If they do, is there any possible way to configure the emulators to not do this preprocessing and output rectangular pixels at the consoles' native pixel aspect ratio instead, or to configure Linux/Windows to do so?
If not, then I guess I'll have no choice but to buy the consoles and flashcarts now, since I don't want the emulators rescaling at all and because SDTV CRTs also use rectangular pixels, which will distort the square-pixeled output of the emulators.

[Anonymous No.1434048]

>>1434045
(cont.)

However, if it is possible to configure either the OS or the emulators how I described above, then I have made the right choice going with the PVM

[Anonymous No.1434050]

>>1434034
If the discoloration depends on your viewing angle of the screen, that might be a weird effect of screen (or mask/grille) curvature with no real fix.

More likely, it's probably just magnetized somewhat and may need a little degaussing.

[Anonymous No.1434073]

>>1434045
>not to mention the SNES flashcarts can't simulate the SA1 chip (is this still a problem?)
None of the SNES flashcarts have SuperFX or SA1 support yet. There was work being done on the SD2SNES for SuperFX support, but it's been slow going. That cart is the only one that supports CX-4 right now, though (Mega Man X2 and X3).

[Anonymous No.1434079]

>>1434073
That's what I was afraid of. I'm going to have to hunt down and drop some serious money for all the SuperFX and SA1 titles now too.

[Anonymous No.1434120]

>>1433939
>>1433947

I have the same problem as this guy with that little squiggle at the very top of the screen. It's very annoying and I was wondering how I might fix it?

[Anonymous No.1434129]

>>1434079
It wasn't a huge deal for me when I bought mine. The only games with those chips that I really want to play are Starfox, Super Mario World 2, Super Mario RPG, Kirby's Dreamland 3, and Kirby Super Star, and I already own all of those except for SMW2. I'll still be pretty happy if they get SuperFX working.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1434134]

>>1434079
>That's what I was afraid of.
Look on the bright side. The worthwhile SA-1 and SuperFX/FX2 games can probably be had for less than the cost of Megaman X2/X3. Cx4 being compatible is better for your pocket than SA-1/FX.

Only sad thing is not being able to play Starfox 2 on it.

[Anonymous No.1434145]

>>1434045
>However, I still am in doubt as far as whether a PVM being a better choice than a computer CRT

Trust me, you won't feel that way when you see it. I don't think there exist 20" computer CRTs that look as good as a 20" PVM. Pictures don't do them justice. They really need to be seen with the naked eye in order to get the full effect.

>higher dot pitch
In terms of quality, a lower dot pitch provides a sharper image than a higher one, actually.

>However, if it is possible to configure either the OS or the emulators how I described above, then I have made the right choice going with the PVM

I don't really emulate, but I'm pretty sure Retroarch or whatever else lets you configure all the details necessary for adjusting resolutions.

[Anonymous No.1434152]

>>1434129
>>1434134
I'm only disappointed because I bought the PVM assuming my retro battle station setup wouldn't come with any additional charges or limited functionality since I figured I could build a relatively cheap PC to watch DVD and emulate on, and somehow get Windows/Linux or the emulators and video player software to output at native resolution with native rectangular pixels so it wouldn't have to rescale to output square ones, but I can't find anything on it doing this.

Just spending over a planned budget, you know how it goes. But It'll pass soon enough.

>>1434145
Sorry, I actually meant a lower dot pitch with a computer CRT. I mixed my words with "higher quality", since that's what a lower dot pitch would result in.

Yes, the emulators allow you to adjust the resolution, but I was trying to figure out whether they're capable of outputting natively rectangular pixels or if they can only output square pixels.

[Anonymous No.1434160]

Anyone ever used a InterView 28hd96 monitor? It's some massive 28" CRT capable of 1080p made back in '95 or so. I'm curious to how it compares to Trinitrons and stuff.

[Anonymous No.1434178]

>>1434160
The 28" part is impressive, but the 1080p isn't.

Pic related, it's capable of 2560x1920 on a standard 400MHz RAMDAC video card.

[Anonymous No.1434185]

>>1434160
>1080p

I'm fairly certain that's a digital CRT, which will have digital signal processing. Not as good as an analog CRT for gaming.

[Anonymous No.1434194]

>>1434185
1995. In all likelihood it's analog.

[Anonymous No.1434195]

>>1434185
It's a monitor, not a TV.

[Anonymous No.1434212]

What are some advantages of CRTs to LCDs? I know about input lag, but is there anything else? Did anything make LCDs replace CRTs besides size? Are they actually of higher quality (in general) than CRTs, or is it just because of their weight? Sorry for all the questions, but I can not find information on CRTs vs modern day LCDs anywhere. I thought you guys might know. . .I personally love CRTs in general (I'd like to get an HDCRT for my more modern systems) but I'm not up to snuff on what exactly makes them better. Could someone be so kind as to enlighten me?

[Anonymous No.1434221]

>>1434212
Cheaper to manufacture, cheaper to ship, takes up less space on the store floor.

And they don't last nearly as long, so they can sell you a new one every few years.

[Anonymous No.1434223]

>>1434212
Lag, smooth motion, color depth, true blacks, and resolution diversity are pretty much the big ones. There's a big writeup in a pastebin page in this thread.

Size and especially production and shipment cost were factors in the discontinuation of CRTs. LCDs are way, way less of an investment to make than CRTs for the manufacturers.

[Anonymous No.1434229]

>>1434212
CRTs are better in every way.

LCDs are just cheaper and can be huge without weighing a ton

[Anonymous No.1434245]

>>1434221
>>1434223
>>1434229
Thanks, guys! I read the pastebin too, it was pretty informative.

[Anonymous No.1434297]

>>1434229
i believe there were some CRT tvs capable of 1080i

LED monitors are cheaper to produce,need less storage capacity and weight a lot less, which makes them more affordable and nets more profit to the makers
i wonder how much could they have pushed the resolution of crt tv's had they keep producing them,

To this day i believe there should be some small market where a company could earn a buck if they keep producing brand new CRTs

In fact i've imported several CRT's from Mexico where you still can get your hands on still packed unused ones

[Anonymous No.1434301]

>>1434297
>LED monitors are cheaper to produce

[IaTM No.1434450]

Well, I went into my 26HF84's service menu and made it finally display the full NES resolution. No overscan, can finally show demos which have things on the upper and lower rows of tiles.

[Anonymous No.1434590]

>>1434450
>aspect ratio

[IaTM No.1434684]

>>1434590
The bars are a disgusting gray. and I hate looking at them. I tend to keep it widescreen.

[Anonymous No.1434692]

>>1434684
I guess this is what happened to the HDTV transition generation: they got used to seeing 4:3 content on 16:9 screens.

It's just instant niggery to me.

[Anonymous No.1434715]

Got a free 14" Philips from my friend. Cleaned it and it's like new. Playing NES on it feels so good.

[Anonymous No.1434885]

This is the CRT I use for most of my PS2 and 1 gaming, however, it crops/cuts the image only on the left side. I'm absolutely sure it's not overscan. Besides, on the PS2 there's this black strip on the lower edge and right. Is this a mere matter of tweaking with the service menu?

[Anonymous No.1434901]

SOMEBODY PLEASE SAVE THIS NEC XM FOR /vr/ SAKE.

It only deserves to be with a retrobro

http://panamacity.craigslist.org/sys/4325343338.html

If I didn't live 1000 miles away (and already have a PVM and a Trinitron).

I'd buy it. What the hell am I talking about. I'd buy it anyways

[Anonymous No.1434943]

>>1434901
I'm just as far away as you.

[Anonymous No.1434948]

>>1433973
>>1434120
The other anons already suggested to screw around with the service menu.
However, it is possible that this horizontal deflection fault can be caused by dead capacitors or other defective components.

[Anonymous No.1434972]

>>1434692
Also it makes them feel better about being fat to fatten up their content that comes from back before when everyone was fat.

[IaTM No.1435091]

>>1434972
I weigh 125, and grey pillarbox bars are the most repulsive thing ever. I mean, whose fucking idea was that?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1435095]

>>1435091
That is really stupid; Just a waste of electricity, and wear on the tube.

[Anonymous No.1435273]

>>1435091
>>1435095
It's intentional, to slow down uneven screen wear (burn-in). That's also why Toshiba provided two different letterboxing modes on some 4:3 sets.

[Anonymous No.1435345]

Just grabbed this cabinet for my 27" Sony.

20 bucks at crappy tire in the clearance, needed a tiny bit of work but pretty easy. Still need to grab a new power bar and some video cords before I set it up proper.

might be a stupid question, but are Sony Wega's a good option for the old stuff? Consoles seem to look pretty good on it but I don't really have a comparison.

[Anonymous No.1435350]

>>1435345

and forgot the pic, here

[Anonymous No.1435353]

>be third world
>don't have a crt because
>all crts people sell here are overpriced and ugly
>shipping from ebay of all decently sized pvms costs 1000+
life
is
suffering

[Anonymous No.1435426]

>>1435345
As long as your Wega's an SDTV, yes, it's a good choice.

[Anonymous No.1436028]

So two questions:

1.) I have a PVM 20L2 and a 20MDU. What is the difference between these two models? is the L2 a more recent model? They have seem to have the same number of lines last I checked (600)

2.) When aligning the geometry, which video mode should you adjust it in? 240p? 480i? I realize that different consoles will have differences but which one would make more sense?

Thanks anon PVM experts!! If all goes well, I will take plenty of screen shots when I get this PVM adjusted.

[Anonymous No.1436031]

>>1435091
>not having black bars

[Anonymous No.1436042]

For 16:9/16:10 aspect ratio Widescreen monitors, how would it scale games that only display in 4:3/5:4 aspect ratio?

[Anonymous No.1436054]

>>1436042
>monitors
If analog, no scaling. Natural behavior (meaning no processing) is to let the image take up the whole screen. Some might call that stretching, but there is no actual processing involved, that's just what it looks like naturally. This can typically be corrected by adjusting horizontal "screen size."

For digital monitors, best behavior is to center the image horizontally, but lel digital for actual retro hardware.

For TVs, there are different modes depending on the model.

[Anonymous No.1436074]

>>1436031
that looks like hell

[Anonymous No.1436103]

I bought a multi scart connector that connects a single scart lead to a snes/saturn/xbox/ps1/dreamcast. I have it hooked into a homemade cable that converts scart to a db9 connection that my amiga monitor accepts. The problem is that only the saturn shows any video, while everything else shows a black screen. Do you think it might have something to do with the different pin configurations between EU scart and JP scart like pic related?

[Anonymous No.1436160]

My massive sanyo crt that has component in has suddenly started having geometry issues(center of the image displayed is stretched a fair bit) and the image will pulse bigger/smaller depending on the amount/color of the content on the screen. Is a capacitor singing its death song, or is it something I might be able to fix in the service menu? Finding a crt this big is hard nowadays.

[Anonymous No.1437004]

What should I spend on a 20" Trinitron PVM-2130QM, or a 20" PVM in general.

[Anonymous No.1437037]

>>1437004
whatever you're willing to spend plus $9001 plus tax plus tip

[Anonymous No.1437049]

>>1437037
So around €40-50 should be ok.

[Anonymous No.1437090]

So what cords do i need to get to connect shit to my trinitron? im currently using my snes hooked up via s-video. but i wanna hook up my wii for retroarch. i guess i need a component/composite to BNC adapter?

[Anonymous No.1437095]

>>1437004
I just spent $100 on a 20" PVM. Seems like the 20" PVM's are usually about twice the price of the 14" ones.

Also, do Europeans refer to screen size in inches? I never hear screen size refereed to in centimeters.

[Anonymous No.1437104]

>>1437090
You'll want to get a hold of these for anything composite/component, RCA to BNC adapters. You usually can get them at a good price online if you buy in bulk. RadioShack charges about $5 just for one of them.

[Anonymous No.1437115]

>>1437104
http://www.amazon.com/Q-See-QSRCBN6-Pack-RCA-BNC-Connectors/dp/B000G5S4JI

These are the ones I got and they work perfectly.

[Anonymous No.1437161]

Goddamnit. I finally got a Sony Trinitron CRT that has decent geometry, and no gaussing issues.

For 10$.

I spent 100$ already on 3 other CRTs, all of which ended up having pincushion distortions, burn in, or were seriously magnetized.

Being CRT is suffering.

[Anonymous No.1437180]

>>1437161
>something good happens
>no time to appreciate it, gotta think back on the hardship that preceded it
dude, be happy!

[Anonymous No.1437184]

>>1437095
So that makes a price of €75 also reasonable.
For some reason that is the only thing that is referred in inches and rarely in centimeters.

[Anonymous No.1437214]

Are the cheap ebay degaussing coils good at all?

[Anonymous No.1437237]

If I use an emulator on an LCD, can it look as good as a CRT with the console?

because your whole "but the latency and upscaling..." argument is gone in this case.

[Anonymous No.1437270]

>>1437237

Not it wont, you'll see perfectly square pixels while some systems DON'T have square pixels, it won't be as smooth and you'll have ghosting thanks to Sample & Hold, and you'll have to upscale it anyway because I doubt your monitor will support 256*224 or 160*120 modes while still looking as good as it's max resolution.

[Anonymous No.1437294]

>>1437237
No, but you can get very close. If you modify an LCD to use a very high brightness LED backlight, strobed at low duty cycle synchronized to the frames, and the response time is fast enough that you get consistent pixels during the strobe (highly unlikely unless it's 120Hz), and you're in bright surroundings so you can't see the poor black level. But there's nothing you can do about the artifacts from the temporal dithering used in all fast LCDs.

You can do the same strobing in software on a 120Hz LCD and it's notable worse than a CRT but still acceptable IMO. This is what I use.

[Anonymous No.1437305]

>>1437270
what the fuck is ghosting
>>1437294
all of that
do i have to do it manually
like, opening the tv and shit?

how do i know if it's 120hz? and yes it's a led

[Anonymous No.1437315]

>>1437305
Ghosting is the blur caused by the pixel transition time. It's only a major problem on slow LCDs (eg. IPS panel). It's a different type of blur than sample-and-hold blur, which can only be prevented by strobing or high framerate (high framerate is impossible on consoles because they're capped at 60fps).

The hardware strobing would require moderately advanced hacking in both hardware and software. I could probably do it but it would take a lot of time and expense so I probably won't bother, and I'm fairly experienced in electronics/hardware mods.

Software only option is much easier. It's a one line change in most emulators.

[Anonymous No.1437323]

>>1437237
>because your whole "but the latency and upscaling..." argument is gone in this case.
No, it's not. LCD monitors have latency as well. LCD monitors cannot natively display 15KHz signals.

[Anonymous No.1437334]

>>1437323
Which is irrelevant in the case of emulation. But it's true that even the fastest 120Hz LCDs have more latency than a CRT.

[Anonymous No.1437336]

>>1437334
If you're emulating anything pre-N64, non-native resolution is an instant failure.

[Anonymous No.1437340]

>>1437336
Nearest neighbor scaling is literally identical to native resolution (there's no standard number of subpixels per pixel). And in the case of non-1:1 pixel aspect (eg. NES/SNES), use a non-ringing resampling filter after the nearest neighbor stage and it's also identical for the same reason.

[Anonymous No.1437346]

>>1437340
>Nearest neighbor scaling is literally identical to native resolution
So why do all those scanline filters exist? Why do people try to emulate aperture grilles? Why are there NTSC and halation filters?

Do you really think old consoles output their video signals with razor-sharp 300MHz pixel transitions?

[Anonymous No.1437350]

>>1437346
Native resolution is native resolution no matter if the pixel has 3 subpixels or 27 subpixels. CRT image quality artifacts (and scanlines are an artifact caused by the 240p on 480i hack, not an intended part of the image) are a separate issue. There's no reason to simulate those other than nostalgia.

[Anonymous No.1437356]

>>1437350
>I don't know what "native" means
>I like seeing gaudy dithering patterns everywhere
We're done.

[Anonymous No.1437358]

>>1437356
My phone has a pentile display, and it still has pixels. My old CRT has different numbers of phosphor dots per pixel at different parts of the screen. "Pixel" is logical, not physical. Nearest neighbor literally makes pixels bigger.

And the only way to remove dithering is to apply blurring filters that make things look very bad. I personally have no problem interpreting dithering with my brain. Note that VGA games use dithering, and those were line doubled so they always had very clear pixels.

[Anonymous No.1437609]

>>1404993

Is that a Sephiroth doll in the monitor reflection ...?

[Anonymous No.1437803]

>>1437161
that's how it goes mang

[Anonymous No.1438078]

Okay this isn't really a CRT question or even /vr/ related so if a moderator deletes this I won't be offended but you guys usually know about this kind of stuff.

I was under the impression that there was no NTSC or PAL when it comes to Component YPbPr video but today I used Open PS2 Loader to start a PAL game on my NTSC PS2 hooked up via Component and my TV wouldn't display it.

I'm sure I can fix it no problem but why didn't it work?

[Anonymous No.1438084]

>>1438078
Because most PAL games play at 50Hz and that's not something most NTSC televisions support.

[Anonymous No.1438215]

>get a decent CRT
>missing the power button, but I've got a solution for that
>test it out before even bringing it home
>works perfectly
>treat it like a little angel the entire way home, it barely moves a half an inch
>pick it up to bring it inside
>make it all the way up 5 flights of stairs to my apartment
>plug it in in the living room to make sure I wasn't too rough with it
>still works perfectly fine
>get it to my room
>FUCK THIS THING IS HEAVY
>rest it on the corner of my bed on a bedpost
>plastic on the bottom breaks after half a second and the post goes through and cracks the PCB

FUCK. At least it was free.

[Anonymous No.1439418]

So I got a CRT from my friend recently. It's a Sylvania but I have no remote :( Is there anyway I can switch it to the gaming input? I can only play my sega through RF right now

[Anonymous No.1439435]

>>1439418
Get a universal remote duh

[Anonymous No.1439849]

>>1437161
You should be able to fix geometry issues in the tv's service mode.

[Anonymous No.1439858]

>>1438078
There's no PAL or NTSC chroma encoding when using component or RGB video. There are still 50/60hz field rate issues.

[Anonymous No.1440118]

Halp guys!!

Today i decided to visit the local flea market and got me one of these Silver Trinitrons with Flat screen, a KV-20FV12, i am not sure 100% but i believe this screen is 480i since there is a confirmed 480i slightly different model that shares the same manual.

I got it working with an old Intel Laptop that has S-Video Output but the laptop only goes as low as 800x600 when i plug the cable in.
The result is not bad but it certainly isn't scanline bliss, in fact there are no scanlines at all because the thing is interlaced

Now here is the trouble:

What kind of resolution is my CRT displaying?
Is it 480i or the 800x600 from the Laptop ?
Can it handle 240p?
Can i use linux to output 240p to this TV?

There are a few cheap Extron RGB units available at said flea market none outputs in S-video, only RGBHV,

Can i hack the TV so it accepts these ? I think i might have seen this done before for some arcade cabs

[Anonymous No.1440264]

>>1440118
sorry but with that model you will only be able to display 480i no matter what, your best bet is getting a Sony PVM - BVM, with RGBHV input also expect the good working ones to be expensive

[Anonymous No.1440324]

>>1440264
How did you come to this conclusion?

[Anonymous No.1440365]

>MFW a guy was trying to donate an old TV with a Twin-lead connection today at the thrift store and they didn't want it.
>MFW I saw a similar TV for free at a garage sale

Should I have gotten them?

[Anonymous No.1440375]

>>1440118
>KV-20FV12
That thing can handle UP TO 480i. The only progressive you'll get out of it is 240p.

[Anonymous No.1440527]

>>1440375
i ve been trying to get it to display 320 x 240p, using xrandr on linux
but even a regular 320x240 output is imposible

$ cvt 320 240


$ # 320x240 59.52 Hz (CVT 0.08M3) hsync: 15.00 kHz; pclk: 6.00 MHz
Modeline "320x240_60.00" 6.00 320 336 360 400 240 243 247 252 -hsync +vsync


$ xrandr --newmode "320x240_60.00" 6.00 320 336 360 400 240 243 247 252 -hsync +vsync

no success

[Anonymous No.1440532]

>>1440527
Do other people say your card can do 240p? Not all cards are able to. Who makes it?

[Anonymous No.1440565]

>>1440527
>hsync: 15.00 kHz;
No. This should be 15734Hz for NTSC or 15750Hz for PAL.

Use
>ModeLine "320x240" 6.30 320 328 376 400 240 245 246 262 -HSync -VSync

[Anonymous No.1440575]

>>1440365
>twin-lead

no

[Anonymous No.1440580]

>>1440365

Did it look like an early 80s/70s set? If yes, the coolness value would have gone up when played with an Atari 2600 and/or a Coleco vision, so yes, you should have take it.

[Anonymous No.1440585]

>>1440580
Yes it did

Ah well. Too late. Not like I have a place for it either

[Anonymous No.1440609]

>>1440585

Well, too bad.

On /crtg/ we tend to forget to tell that getting a 70s/first-half 80s/60s with only RF input is pretty cool too (especially for Atari 2600/5200/7800/400 and other early consoles).

[Anonymous No.1440614]

>>1440609
I always mod Ataris I get in for Coaxial because that little box is BS

[Anonymous No.1440628]

is there a PC CRT that lets me connect RCA cables out there? I'd like to be able to vidya on my old consoles finally. as well being able to use my PC. I ask for this specificallykbecause of space constraints

[Anonymous No.1440635]

>>1440628

Some have BNC for BNC-VGA connection, but RCA, I don't think.

[Anonymous No.1440656]

>>1440628
True 15/31/+ multiscan monitors are very rare. Finding one that will work well at high-res PC modes as well as TV modes is going to be nearly impossible.

[Anonymous No.1440659]

>>1440565
thanks i'll try tomorrow

[Anonymous No.1440703]

>>1440118
>What kind of resolution is my CRT displaying?
NTSC standard signal at all times (meaning max actual resolution is 480i), but the source image may be of any resolution

>Is it 480i or the 800x600 from the Laptop ?
800x600 logical resolution (GPU and OS), 480i actual resolution (TV encoder is outputting at standard NTSC/480i timings)

>Can it handle 240p?
Yeah, it should. Analog SDTVs don't have scaler crap in them.

>>1440365
These should be treated the same as TVs with only coax since they're functionally equivalent if you use an adapter.

[Anonymous No.1441115]

Now that someone mentioned downscalers like the Emotia, i've been eyeing this device for a while and wonder if it would do the same, it has a overscan/underscan switch like the super emotia and i wonder if it could be used to downscale to 240p

[Anonymous No.1441450]

>>1440565
It Works perfectly! Thank you.

but i think its still interlaced video, what would you suggest ?

[Anonymous No.1441465]

Anyone know of any good A/V switches that support component? I had a Pelican one for several years that was fine for the most part. No lag, video looked just as good as it would normally, etc. then it just crapped out on me last year. On every chanel but one video appears very dark and muddy and audio is very crackly and usually only comes out of the right speaker. Really annoying to have to go to the back of the TV and fiddle with ten or so cables every single time I want to change systems.

I've seen a bunch of new ones but they all seem to require an AC adapter, a spot I'd rather not spend on my power strip when I usually only have like one or two free as-is. That and I have no idea if they introduce lag or whatever other problems may arise.

[Anonymous No.1441971]

would this be a good idea?
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=4722&seq=1&format=2

will it cause any issues such as input lag or imperfect display?

[Anonymous No.1441991]

>>1441971
to follow up and give more info. I want play old console AND use my PC on a neat CRT monitor.

[Anonymous No.1442001]

>>1441971
>input lag
Yes on composite and S-Video and maybe on VGA input.

>imperfect display?
If it's "made in China" then it would be quite likely.

[Anonymous No.1442505]

Bummed out because I cant use my PVM 2530 properly with component cables. Went out of my way to get an Extron Emotia+HDBoxPro and try to hook it up that way but it still looks like ass in component vs those same systems on the monitor through straight S-video.

GOD FUCKING DAMN IT.

Does anyone have Emotia experience? I have no clue why it doesnt seem to be playing nicely

[Anonymous No.1442508]

what is the best crt tv?

[Anonymous No.1442515]

>>1442505
Setup is as follows. Gamecube/Original Xbox>Component Cables>HDBoxPro>VGA Output>Extron Emotia>BNC Out/Scart>Scart to 21pin RGB>Sony PVM 2530

[Anonymous No.1442557]

>>1441465
Active switches don't introduce lag. The good ones are far, far superior to passive switches.

>>1442001
>"made in China"
That's not even a close indicator of quality.

>>1442508
What is the best car?

[Anonymous No.1442563]

>>1442557
>What is the best car?
this has allready been established.
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnWKz7Cthkk&hd=1
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTPnIpjodA8&hd=1
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFnVZXQD5_k&hd=1

[Anonymous No.1442568]

Sync Question on NEC XP-29 Plus:

So I have an XP-29 Plus, but for some reason I can't figure out how to get it to handle the PlayStation's syncing on Luma. I can get my NES to sync (RGB modded), but I can't seem to find any setting that will handle the PS's sync. The PS syncs fine on my other RGB monitor just by plugging the sync connector on the breakout cable into the standard BNC connector for sync, but on the XP-29, nothing seems to work.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1442647]

>>1442568
Is it possible that the monitor doesn't accept dirty sync?

[Anonymous No.1442660]

>>1442647
Entirely possible, I just don't know much about it to be honest since my other setup seems to take anything I've thrown at it so far. It does have dips for Sync On Green and Normal Sync, though those don't seem to help the issue.

[Anonymous No.1442861]

So if I emulate vidya on a Wii and use S-Video to connect to a CRT or PVM will it still look good as fuck?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1442872]

>>1442861
S-Video from a Wii would look quite nice.

Not sure why you wouldn't just go all the way and grab a cheap component cable.

[Anonymous No.1442882]

>>1442872
I play it on an old Commodore 64 monitor that only takes composite and S-Video.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1442885]

>>1442882
Makes sense. I only asked since you mentioned a PVM.

[Anonymous No.1442958]

OK to get everything straight

can i get 240p over an S video Cable on any Trinitron ?

like from these old PC videocards?

[Anonymous No.1442973]

>>1442958
HD Trinitrons will treat 240p as 480i, then will "deinterlace" that image. Don't get an HDTV for retro.

[Anonymous No.1443017]

>>1442505
Are you trying to upscale/downscale the component video for some reason?

[Anonymous No.1443047]

>>1442508
Sony Trinitrons

[Anonymous No.1443081]

>>1442568
So yeah. If the monitor can't handle Luma sync, would a standard sync stripper circuit work to remove the sync info from luma as it does with composite video?

[Anonymous No.1443109]

>>1443081

The stripper will work the same as it doesn't matter what else is on the wire as long as the sync is clean, though the monitor may just not like the sync signal.

[Anonymous No.1443272]

>>1443081
i ve seen some circuit boards made for "Sync Cleaning" at jamma nation

on a separate question : Should i avoid a PVM if it says "Super fine pitch" or does it not matter?

[Anonymous No.1443372]

>>1443272
No, those tubes simply have more TV lines, which isn't detrimental to retro.

[Anonymous No.1443667]

>>1443372
Bump limit is upon us in a few posts, /vr/os. What do you think, shall we simply christen >>1433489 as the new interim /crt/ thread, or shall we leave that alone as the newbie/hater containment thread (ugh, just read some of it) and create a new general?

First reply decides.

[Anonymous No.1443672]

>>1443667

We leave it as a containment thread.

Creating a true CRT general with a subject and an specified OP pic is better when it comes to navigation in the catalog.

[Anonymous No.1443687]

>>1443667
First voter has spoken, new thread coming up. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1443695]

>>1443694
>>1443694
>>1443694

NEW THREAD

>>1443694
>>1443694
>>1443694

[Anonymous No.1445180]

I'm the guy who was fumbling with the Emotia and the PVM. Turned out pretty good with my GC component cables. Here is the result.

[Anonymous No.1445514]

>>1445180
Nice work, anon. If you want to describe your setup in more detail, please post in the new thread!

[Anonymous No.1447127]

bye thread!