/VR/ replacements tslk

[Anonymous No.8791562]

So i bought replacement snes membranes for both of my snes controllers from Console5, and i put it to the test with both SF2 and Super SF2 and i got issues with upper diagonals, sometimes they wont register sometimes my character will jump verticslly instead, all the other buttons work fine.

Is this just because they are new and with use they get good?

[Anonymous No.8791574]

>>8791562
No. Its because cheapesr chinese shit.

[Anonymous No.8791580]

>>8791574
But i bought them here.

https://console5.com/store/snes-replacement-controller-silicone-rubber-carbon-dot-pads.html

[Anonymous No.8791735]

>>8791562
>buys meme garbage
>play fighting games on a dpad
Found your problem

[Anonymous No.8791889]

>>8791562
there is a bit more to it than that
if you overtighten the controller back together it will act janky

fiddle with it and report back
i haven't found membranes that were good enough to justify reordering
i have gotten lucky a couple times & had shit work perfectly the first try though (famicom)

[Anonymous No.8792362]

>>8791580
I don't think Console5 produces their own parts.

[Anonymous No.8792391]

One of the rubber feet melted on Super Famicom, does anyone know of a decent replacement for the feet.

[Anonymous No.8792412]

>>8791580
Those are the same as the chink stuff, they're gargabe all around, it's a big issue as there's no way to refurbish the old controllers.

[Anonymous No.8792597]

>>8792412
>having listened to this faggot saying you can change the rubbet parts

https://youtu.be/ko9Y79TUHG8

[Anonymous No.8793034]

>>8791562
My original snes dpad rubber membrane started to show issues while pressing down (i figure it out the original is brown), it doesnt register at light touches so i have to press all way down.

The diagonals still work well, i tried some new replacement ones and i liked that they sounded clicky and light touches register well, but the diagonals were fucking garbage.

So if it really that bad that all repair pads are chink shit? Like an invasion?

[Anonymous No.8793046]

>>8791562
>i got issues with upper diagonals
That's because replacement silicone pads are poorly made chink garbage that doesn't work. Repair the conductive material on your original SNES pads using pic related or an equivalent.

[Anonymous No.8793050]

>>8791889
This. Just because you think you put it back together perfectly doesn't mean you actually did. You may need to make some minor adjustments. It still won't feel like the original membranes, every fucking replacement seems to be way too stiff. I purposely damage mine to soften them up before I put them in, but I don't think I should recommend that.

[Anonymous No.8793051]

>>8792597
Though you were going to link the Voultar video, none of this works btw, boiling the rubber contacts won't bring them to life, I've tried it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttk_ArKi_-0

[Anonymous No.8793053]

>>8793034
I would rather pay more and get a quality product but these days there's no guarantees of anything. My saturn pad has a mushy dpad and C button, I've tried the chink membranes, didn't work out great at all.

[Anonymous No.8793057]

>>8793051
So typical faggot $/0/ytubers grifting?

Well damn, i guess ever since the kung flu, ebay and amazon just got filled with faulty chinkshit regardless.

What other videos do you know that flat out lie and shill shity products like these? I would like to comment on them or expose em.

[Anonymous No.8793060]

>>8793046
Dont know if they sell this locally in mexiland, any good equivalents?

[Anonymous No.8793063]

>>8793053
So at this point, just switch to emulation and keyboard? NO, DONT USE 8BITDOODOO CRAP.

[Anonymous No.8793091]

>>8793063
I used those early Saturn USB clones, they came out close to a decade ago. They're called Saturn Cool Pad:
LOT 2 Sega Saturn Cool Pad controller White official gamepad 1 Week to US
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334377594917

You can get without the SEGA branding for cheap:
USB Classic Gamepad Controller Wired Game Controller Joypad for Sega Saturn PC
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/33025340643.html

Never tried the retrobit versions.

[Anonymous No.8793097]

Forgot to mention the shoulder buttons on those Saturn Cool Pads aren't microswitches but membranes, they're really awful.
The membranes fit but aren't good, they may look good and also on photos but that's how they trick you.

[Anonymous No.8793113]

>>8793051
>boiling the rubber contacts won't bring them to life
>boiling
What the fuck are you idiots doing? The rubber pads work by simply conducting electricity, meaning they'll work again if you just fucking restore their conductivity. You could glue aluminum foil to the pads and it'd work.

>>8793060
>any good equivalents
You can use anything as long as it conducts electricity and can be stuck to the pads.

[Anonymous No.8793126]

>>8793113
We're talking about the rubber membranes offering a springy response and not being mushy. It's not about the contacts themselves.

[Anonymous No.8793150]

>>8793126
>We're talking about the rubber membranes offering a springy response and not being mushy.
You are mistaken, my dude.

[Anonymous No.8793157]

>>8791735
SonicFox uses Dpad

[Anonymous No.8793269]

>>8791562
Couldn't you just buy the SNES classic controller for the mini or the one for Switch Online and use the membranes from those?

[Anonymous No.8793447]

>>8792391
home depot/lowes

[Anonymous No.8793601]

>>8793091
retrobit are fine
don't overspend though

i have broken a couple but def got my moneys worth (d-pad broke and wasn't the same)
i still saved all the parts for my next controller

[Anonymous No.8793746]

>>8792391
3M make these things often called 'bumpons', or anti-vibration rubber pads with adhesive backing.
I know where you're coming from because one of mine melted too, and I'm not sure what size you'd need but bumpons are what you're looking for (had to research this shit about a year ago after my MiSTer acrylic case arrived without any).

Also this reminds me: >>8793097
While I entered this thread hoping to find where I could get a decent-quality replacement D-pad lever, I guess that's not happening (lever as in the "+"-shaped insert, and good fucking lord is it a nightmare trying to get google to understand the difference, because of chinese SEO-bullshit hawking rubber pads; only site I could find with levers was kitsch-bent or whatever and a special place in hell is reserved for whoever designed their webstore).

Reason being, I bought a pair of SNES controllers on eBay: one's an SNS-102 I'm hoping has aged OK, and the other is an original model with parts that have probably deteriorated with age- and I'm gonna use the second one for a dumb idea to try replicate the feel of the GBA SP, which has my favourite D-pad [barring the PS Vita which uses the same mechanism]. In case the travel height ends up being wrong or I need to modify the lever, I'd prefer to hack up a reproduction, but oh well.

But, is there a better way to go about that than pic related?
I'd prefer to avoid gluing the microswitches to the pcb in case they break/they're fabrication duds/I break them during soldering/I don't like the feel and wanna swap to a firmer model (GBASP seems to use 1.6N switches, testing on a set of scales I own) but this hacky method with the perfboard as an SMT interface is the best idea I've got. Also I'm kinda hamfisted and don't have a complete toolset for this sorta job and would probably just ruin everything if I tried doing direct PCB surgery.

[Anonymous No.8793820]

>>8793157
Even if true, one faggot using something doesn't mean it's good

[Anonymous No.8793863]

>>8793746
I have an extra cross and dpad for the saturn pad, the pad was broken, bought it that way for parts, was planning on building an arcade stick.

[Anonymous No.8794882]

>>8793820
He's one of the best fighting game players out there, if he can do it there's no excuse for anyone else

[Anonymous No.8795017]

One of my NES controllers works fine, the other you really have to mash the Start and Select buttons to get them to register. It's always been like that as long as I've had it though.

[Anonymous No.8795074]

>>8795017
I'm not saying you should replace them, but have you ever tried opening the controller and cleaning the contacts and/or membrane pads?
Try isopropyl alcohol. The closer to 100% the better, but anything over 70% should be fine. Of course this is 30-40 year old rubber we're talking about, it could indeed require replacing.

[Anonymous No.8795276]

Where can I find CHEAP Super Nintendo replacement shells? I was looking on the internet and came by a transparent snes shell replacement for ~$100??? I ain't paying that shit for a piece of plastic, and AliExpress throw me 0 result. Am I out of luck? My SNES shel got cracks everywhere and the seret button is kinda broken. Help me out bros...

[Anonymous No.8795278]

>>8791735
Why did you post a picture of yourself?

[Anonymous No.8796426]

>>8795276
>Am I out of luck?
Yes.
People who have specialised skills dictate the price they sell their skill at.

Either learn about injection moulding and sell your own SNES shells, cannabalise another console, or pay the man his $100.

[Anonymous No.8796608]

>>8791562
You have to wear them in a little bit just like with the original controllers.

[Anonymous No.8796643]

>>8795017
that's probably just residue built up from the contact pads, take them apart and the gap between the two buttons in the middle should be clear of any black gunk. That's messing with the conductivity of the button. Using some alcohol on a q-tip or paper towel you can clean the area. Cleaning the underside of the pad helps too but be really careful cleaning the rubber pads, they're very fragile but flexible and if suddenly bent to an extreme angle can be severed and make their actuation feel incredibly shitty requiring a replacement pad.

[Anonymous No.8796659]

>>8794882
Sad thing is zoomers really do think that way

[Anonymous No.8796702]

Follow up to >>8793746
I've come to the conclusion there's no better way to go about this- however I may be required to build up the board to get the GBA SP's feel of minimal travel distance.

And so I found this thing from addled fruits which has the perfect hole spacing, but I need to cut it down to a disc (~30mm)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/1214

So uh, how hard is it to cut PCB precisely on that scale?
Would tinsnips work?

[Anonymous No.8796941]

>>8795278
this user is underage

[Anonymous No.8797271]

>>8796941
You missed their pretty obvious joke there dude

[Anonymous No.8797704]

>>8797271
this user is underage