Do we not have a repair general anymore?

[Anonymous No.7486703]

Starting repair general because I'd love advice.

Got a gba sp with some minor corrosion so I'm thinking a little water damage.
Given it a good cleanup with ipa, replaced the volume slider that was ruined.
only remaining problem is the tactile switches are unresponsive.
If I run it out it's shell or in it, the left and right along with A and B buttons need me to press right down and there's a delay. Tried cleaning with Ipa more. Tried reflowing the solder contacts. Up, down, start, select and brightness are fine.
any suggestions other than finding some new surface mount flat tac switches?

[Anonymous No.7486837]

>>7486703
>Do we not have a repair general anymore?
No. People here finally got so retarded they can't even change the batteries in a game boy let alone solder. They destroyed all their consoles trying to fix/clean them and just gave up
>any suggestions other than finding some new surface mount flat tac switches?
Need more/accurate details about what you did to them and what the problem is. A physical problem with a tactile switch won't cause a "delay". You're either describing it poorly or you've damaged something else.

[Anonymous No.7486863]

Most of current year /vr/ are emucucks now.

[Anonymous No.7487138]

Anyone have any recommendations on capacitors for this original Xbox? I need 6.3v 3300uf caps but was wondering if anyone had any specific recommendations. High temperature tolerance would be ideal. Just not too sure on what exactly to buy as I've never bought caps in the past.

[Anonymous No.7487159]

>>7487138
https://console5.com/wiki/Microsoft_Xbox
https://console5.com/store/microsoft-xbox-original-cap-kit.html

[Anonymous No.7487161]

>>7487159
Don't need a whole kit, just 3 caps.

[Anonymous No.7487164]

>>7487138
I also provided you with a link to Chimeric Systems in your other thread - a trusted seller. What more do you want?

[Anonymous No.7487167]

>>7487164
What other thread? I never posted about this.

[Anonymous No.7487173]

>>7487167
This isn't your thread? >>7482821

[Anonymous No.7487182]

>>7487173
no lol, thank you though. I'll buy these for now but I'd like to try sourcing my own from digikey for future bulk orders.

[Anonymous No.7487187]

>>7487161
better replace all the caps.
>I need 6.3v 3300uf caps but was wondering if anyone had any specific recommendations
the voltage can be any valor equal or higher than 6.3
>High temperature tolerance would be ideal.
you can use chink cap

[Anonymous No.7487746]

>>7486837
I recently received it in this condition so I am not sure what was done to break it, only assumed water damage due to volume pot having rust inside

[Anonymous No.7487762]

>>7486703
>only remaining problem is the tactile switches are unresponsive.
if the switches themselves are damaged just replace them. I've seen the chinks have those exact switches.

[Anonymous No.7487908]

>>7486703
>do we not have a repair general anymore?
No, /vr/ got killed when they changed the rules and a quality poster exodus ensued. Now we only get zoomer /v/ retard rejects in their "muh shitposting kek" phase emulating on their phones and a couple bitter and jaded /vr/ oldfags keeping a tab open by habit and occasionally posting in disgust.

Don't waste your time on here, the energy spent on trying to help or inform people only here to shitpost isn't worth it. You have to go to r*ddit or other forums for anything decent sadly or search the Warosu archives, only reason to come here anymore is when there are massive leak dumps for pastebin's.

[Anonymous No.7487919]

>>7487159
What brand is best for replacement on the PS1 power supply?

[Anonymous No.7487964]

>>7487746
Well then if it has the symptoms you say it does it's fucked. As I said, if the switches are broken they won't cause a delay, so you have a much bigger problem.

[Anonymous No.7488160]

>>7487138
Nichon or Rubycon caps are best

[Anonymous No.7488289]

>>7486703
Try putting capacitive tape on the contact points? Try using a different membrane?

[Anonymous No.7488536]

>>7488289

[Anonymous No.7488938]

anyone know anything about making the A,B contacts on a GBC more sensitive? I asked reddit and GBAtemp and they were retarded. I bought a used GBC off ebay and modded it, only problem was If you push down B very slowly until you push it all the way it would register, but if you did the same to A it wouldn't. I cleaned the contacts out thoroughly with alcohol as well as the rubber membranes. Got slight improvement but problem persists. I recently bought a Neo Geo Pocket which uses very similar membranes and contacts which also has the exact same issue.

[Anonymous No.7489072]

>>7488938
Get a pencil and rub some graphite on the black pad of the controller membrane.

[Anonymous No.7489126]

>>7486703
Kinda /vr/ because you can play /vr/ games on it but how much of a challenge is putting an IPS screen on a 3DS (new) XL? Is it even worth it?

[Anonymous No.7489152]

>>7489126
As far as i kno there are no 3rd party ips screens for teh 3ds. Am i missing something?

[Anonymous No.7489153]

Weird how this thread was made today, of all days.

But yeah, /vr/ isn't what it was when it was first made. Unfortunately, the retards outnumber us.

A buddy of mine made a video showing how to reprogram FDS games using my equipment. Anyone interested?

[Anonymous No.7489157]

I changed the battery in Pokemon crystal today, and put a CR2032 into Pokemon Emerald, even though it uses a 1616.

I also replaced the coin cell battery in the dreamcast, and put in a new fan. The fan bracket STL was designed with GDemu in mind, which is retarded, so I had to slightly modify it.

[Anonymous No.7489184]

>>7489072
Holy shit NTA but this might fix a problem of mine, ty.

[Anonymous No.7489190]

>>7489072
holy moly it actually worked, i drew some lead on a sticky note, then wiped the note on the back of the rubber pad. Although im a little afraid this is a temporary solution, its still awesome, especially on a NGP which has a bunch of fighting games that require a sensitive touch.

[Anonymous No.7489213]

>>7489157
>and put a CR2032 into Pokemon Emerald, even though it uses a 1616

For others wondering about this, the 2032 fits perfectly and will last 4 times longer than the 1616.

[Anonymous No.7489319]

When /vr/ was first made, someone in these threads was working on a wiki that was supposed to be a resource for every vidya related repair and mod imaginable. Anyone know what happened to that?

[Anonymous No.7489327]

>>7489319
The wiki still exists (and it also hosts /vg/'s emulation general wiki). It's even in the sticky of this board. It's just that no one uses it for some reason.

[Anonymous No.7489613]

Are the chinese GBA IPS V2 ribbon cables compatible with any 3rd party screen? I messed up my screen when i tried to remove it from the shell, I had to force it because of the glue and the lens detached from the backlight and now it won't give me an image. The backlight still works when I turn it on, so I know that at least the ribbon cable seems to be working fine.
I'm asking this because I bought a screen from aliexpress a while ago and it won't turn on when connecting to the ribbon cable, so I was wondering if the screen I ordered might be damaged or if I need a specific type.

[Anonymous No.7491986]

Rise

[Anonymous No.7493036]

>>7487187
>Edgy casual racism
Not only are you a fucking loser, you're also stupid as fuck if you put cheap Chinese caps in any of these consoles

[Anonymous No.7493332]

>>7493036
You need to go back

[Anonymous No.7493747]

>>7493036
HAHAHAHHAA shut up fag.

[Anonymous No.7493751]

Vr has too many fucking generals as it is

[Anonymous No.7493780]

I had a broken gauntlet legends and did a chip swap into a donor board (mission impossible.)

[Anonymous No.7493783]

>>7493036
>Edgy casual racism
He probly meant chink knees

[Anonymous No.7493784]

>>7493036
Shut up nigger

[Anonymous No.7493787]

>>7493780
It worked. I think it was worth it too, the old board seemed to have been damaged by cat piss (judging by the smell when the solder was heated.) so I don't want to think of any future ramifications of a cat piss infected board. I have some other broken N64 carts which appear to have been severely water damaged, hoping the chips themselves weren't compromised so I can give them a new life at the cost of some ken griffey's or something.

[Anonymous No.7493870]

>>7489190
It is temporary. This is because I imagine you're using normal graphite. Get a higher quality graphite pencil from an arts and crafts store and do it again. It'll last way longer. Something like an artists pencil.

[Anonymous No.7494297]

>>7493780
I did this with ocarina into a wailaelae golf pcb

[Anonymous No.7494358]

I know that 3DSes have a resistor on the board that you can move up one position to make it a kiosk 3DS that powers on automatically when you plug it into power, and won't power on otherwise.

Do you guys know if PSPs have something like that as well? I have a PSP kiosk with a PSP in it that can't be accessed and is only used for display purposes, but I have no idea how it's supposed to turn on to run the demos, I doubt store owners were supposed to open it up to turn it on every day.

[Anonymous No.7496603]

Is it safe to use 50% isopropyl alcohol to clean sticker residue off the front of a PSX disc? I just peeled off one of those rental stickers

[Anonymous No.7496975]

>>7489153
no

[Anonymous No.7498226]

>>7496975
Really? You don't want to watch a zoomie "reprogram FDS games" What the fuck is your problem?

[Anonymous No.7498239]

>>7498226
>zoomie
Sir, you need to be at least 18 to post here.

[Anonymous No.7498686]

>>7498239
>no u

[Anonymous No.7498915]

I was cleaning my SNES and used isopropyl and q-tips to clean the board. Turned it over and saw this residue. How badly have I fucked up?

[Anonymous No.7498965]

>>7498915
isopropyl alcohol shouldn't cause any damage to anything on an snes board, dunno what that stuff is. are you sure it's just isopropyl?

[Anonymous No.7498978]

>>7498965
It was 70% isopropyl. It doesn't say what the rest was.

[Anonymous No.7499002]

>>7498978
The rest should be water, it's better to use isopropyl alcohol that has only 10% water.
So it might just be the trace water that's taking longer to evaporate.

[Anonymous No.7499019]

>>7498915
that's just flux from the factory

[Anonymous No.7499081]

>>7499002
It's dry though.

[Anonymous No.7499090]

>>7499081
Just to be sure, is this the side that you did or didn't clean yet?
Either way, clean it with ipa again.

[Anonymous No.7499094]

lol

[Anonymous No.7499117]

>>7499090
The side I didn't clean. But I can try cleaning it again.

[Anonymous No.7499714]

>>7499019
>>7499090
Got home and threw it back together. Seems to be working fine. Guess I'm not a complete fuck up.

[Anonymous No.7499862]

>>7499094
>Exposed EPROMS

This always upsets me.

[Anonymous No.7500050]

>>7499862
What doesn't upset your kind?

[Anonymous No.7500270]

>>7500050
Doesn't light erase the data, hence why holes in emproms typically get covered by tape?

[Anonymous No.7500281]

>>7500270
Exposure to UV erases them, yes, but it's not like you shine a flashlight at it and it instantly erases them, you have to put them in like a UV box for 10 minutes.
But it's stupid to display it with the eeproms open, yes, but is it really any more stupid than displaying it completely taken apart?