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/vr/ - Retro Games


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679819 No.679819 [Reply] [Original]

Continued from >>668265

>> No.679841

Let the autism continue!

>> No.679845

Can someone post a comparison including a plasma? I'm curious how it compares to CRT.

>> No.679850

>>679841
>>>/v/

>> No.679885

>Sony wega's power supply is failing
>Can't find anything but cheap chinese TV's with Component and Trinitrons with composite
>finally decide to just settle for a Trinitron with composite.
>now i can't find any

>> No.679921

>>679845
Plasmas are like LCDs that have temporary image retention problems and color banding issues.
That's pretty much about it.
No reason to bother with them.

>> No.679962

>>679921
Plasma does't have the lag issue of LCDs

>> No.679965

>>679845
Aren't plasmas limited in PPI? That would make them bad for short viewing distances.

>> No.679969

>>679965
Plasma pixels are pretty huge which is why they don't exist except in 32" and up sizes. They do however avoid some of the problems of LCDs including pixel response time and their color and black level is better.

If you wan to use old games on a modern setup, I would recommend a plasma set with possibly a scaler box.

>> No.679978
File: 139 KB, 1024x768, capture.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
679978

>>679962
That's a great point.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1166196/the-official-plasma-input-lag-thread
A wrong one, but a great one.
On top of that, some displays even have issues with 'glitch flickering' when the contrast is too bright rapidly moving across the screen, say the T2 intro, some screens start glitching the fuck out.
Plasma is pretty much fucking terrible, don't even bother.
Unless you've got a raging hard-on for posterization as displayed on the right.

>> No.679980

>>679978
Wrong image, but still demonstrate posterization all the same. Fuck that noise. It's already bad enough when some channels compress digital video and put that in, fuck getting it on a pure signal.

>> No.679984

>>679978
>>679962
You guys are confused. There's two kinds of lag:

1. Upscale lag
2. Pixel response time

Plasma corrects 2, but 1 can still be an issue. After all, HDTV CRTs suffer lag as well, don't they?

>> No.679994

>>679984
The pixel issue is inherent in the nature of LCDs and there's no workaround. The upscale problem depends on the quality of the scaler in use.

>> No.680000

>>679980
>>679978
>implying CRTs had perfect image quality

I've seen plenty with lousy black level, color bleed, and off convergence

>> No.680002

>>679984
Once OLED is commonplace, there will be no need anymore to use a CRT

>> No.680009

>>680002
What's the deal with OLED exactly?

>> No.680012

>>680009
OLED involves each pixel illuminated by little LEDs. It is supposed to allow an unlimited color gamut and have no response time issues, both problems of other flat panel types.

>> No.680013

>>679984
>Plasma corrects 2
No. It has both.
Plasmas also ghost just the same as LCDs.
Technically CRTs can also ghost if they have long phosphor decay times as well.

>> No.680016

>>680002
Not for modern use, but they will still be handy for retro gaming.

>> No.680025

>>680013
>Plasmas also ghost just the same as LCDs

I've seen them running in stores and the difference when watching sports is immediately apparent

>Technically CRTs can also ghost if they have long phosphor decay times as well.

I know that. Like the old IBM monochrome monitors. Those smear like fuck. But it's kind of necessary because they refresh at 50Hz and you would hate staring at that all day.

>> No.680023

>>680012
>unlimited
Not really no. Also hopefully manufacturers don't skimp and throw in shit like 6 bit controllers and dither shit from left over LCD parts and shit. You'd think they wouldn't want to do shit like that, but you never know.
They fucked with the Nexus one kind of like that and it looked like dog shit. Banding, noise, dithering shit horribly. Terrible shit.

>> No.680026

>>680016
Sure because OLED still cannot into Duck Hunt

>> No.680030

>>680023
>Not really no. Also hopefully manufacturers don't skimp and throw in shit like 6 bit controllers and dither shit from left over LCD parts and shit

Actually you can have LCDs with CRT-level color depth and blacks. They're called IPS panels. Unfortunately the response time is way slower than TN.

>> No.680045

Guy in the old CRT thread insisted that he can't play Street Fighter because LCDs don't update the screen fast enough. But what about fighting games on current gen consoles? How do people play those? Obviously flat panel displays haven't stopped anyone from that.

>> No.680050

>>680025
>I've seen them running in stores and the difference when watching sports is immediately apparent

I've seen them running in my house and the difference when watching anything is still blurry.

>But it's kind of necessary because they refresh at 50Hz and you would hate staring at that all day.
Most typically use 60 Hz or more. And not even old ones, even some of the last of the manufactured CRTs did that, probably because quality control was shit as they could just fire the entire department at that point since manufacturers were jumping on the fucking horrid image quality LCD money train. No point in even bothering with quality control at that point, anyone buying one sure as fuck wasn't going to be bitching.

>> No.680059

>>680026
OLED, should in fact be able to duck hunt. Duck hunt uses frame checks and so long as the OLED in question doesn't have shit scalers that introduce any significant delay. (they probably will have shit scalers since TV manufacturers are where they're coming from first and they don't give two shits, they really really don't)
Then duckhunt should work perfectly. Since it uses frame checks, you need to align the brightness checks in the 16ms windows that duckhunt uses per frame. So if you have over 16ms delay, you miss the black screen cheat check anyway.

>> No.680062

>>680050
>I've seen them running in my house and the difference when watching anything is still blurry

What brand of TV was it? Besides, I would still dispute that CRTs have magically better image quality. I've seen many that were quite bad.

>And not even old ones, even some of the last of the manufactured CRTs did that, probably because quality control was shit as they could just fire the entire department at that point since manufacturers were jumping on the fucking horrid image quality LCD money train

I have never believed LCDs were a good technology. While I would have conceptually been ok with getting rid of CRTs, it needed to wait until OLED or whatever was viable. I had an old AOC 14" VGA monitor from the mid-90s and it had better color and blacks than any LCD monitor I've ever used (we're talking strictly computer displays here)

>> No.680064

>>680045
Most fighting game enthusiasts insist on playing on an arcade cab with a RGB arcade monitor.

There are still lag issues in modern fighters, especially with wireless gamepads.

>> No.680068

>>680059
Light gun games won't work on there either because they detect the electron beam as it's passing over the screen. No beam=no Duck Hunt.

>> No.680071

>>680059
>(they probably will have shit scalers since TV manufacturers are where they're coming from first and they don't give two shits, they really really don't)

Assuming we can use external scaler boxes, it shouldn't be an issue.

>> No.680072

>>680068
Another retard who doesnt understand how the NES zapper works.

>> No.680073

>>680045
Modern fighters run at 720p or 1080p so the TV doesnt have to really scale them, thus reducing one aspect of lag.

>> No.680075

>>680045
A good LCD display has little lag, combined with the fact that fighting games are 60 FPS.

>> No.680076

>>680045
>How do people play those?
Easy answer. Really badly or really skilled. Chances are, since it's a current gen console, badly is going to be it most of the time. But assuming someone plays it who knew they were playing 16ms behind, if they could read and react and play as if they it 16 ms earlier than they're seeing, they could actually train for shifting frames, it'd probably shit on your muscle memory doing it unless you've got a great sense of timing and can change it up. As it would depend on the delay you get from the screen. You'd lose any real reactionary advantage since if someone threw a punch, and you could block by the second frame and were that fast, if you didn't even see it until two frames later and it hits on the third, you'd actually take the hit before you even saw it coming. So aggression is an advantage. This is actually not unlike how say counterstrike and TF2 handle lag compensation as they by default delay the game window 100ms (adjustable) + ping delay. So if you had optimal settings you could have 10ms plus 100ms ping and you could shoot someone in the fact, 110 ms before they could do anything about it.

>> No.680084

>>680073
>buy XRGB scaler
>profit

>>680072
Anyway...

"When the player pulls the trigger, the computer (often assisted by the display circuitry) times how long it takes the electron beam to excite the phosphor at the location at which the gun is pointed. The light gun sends a signal after sensing the sudden small change in brightness of a point on the screen when the electron gun refreshes that spot. The computer then calculates the targeted position based on the monitor's horizontal refresh rate (the fixed amount of time it takes the beam to get from the left to right side of the screen). Either the computer provides a time base for the horizontal refresh rate through the controller's connector (as in the Super Scope), or the gun reads the composite video signal through a T-connector on the A/V cable (as in the GunCon 2). Once the computer knows where the gun is pointed, it can tell through collision detection if it coincides with the target or not.

Many guns of this type (including the Super Scope) ignore red light, as red phosphors have a much slower rate of decay than green or blue phosphors. As a result, some (but not all) games brighten the entire screen somewhat when the trigger is pulled in order to get a more reliable fix on the position.

Display timing is not possible with plasma, LCD, and DLP monitors, since they do not have an "off" state between refreshes"

Anyway, emphasis on "The light gun sends a signal after sensing the sudden small change in brightness of a point on the screen when the electron gun refreshes that spot."

And now you know why LCDs cannot into light guns

>> No.680085

>>680076
>>680073
I'm getting two totally contradictory stories here

>> No.680091

>>680085

>>680076 here

nvm I didn't read the posts in >>680075 and >>680073. I forgot that modern fighters use HD resolutions.

>> No.680093

>>680084
OLED could theoretically be made to simulate a CRT for light gun games but it would probably burn the panel out.

>> No.680097

>>680084
NES zapper does not use electron beams.

When you pull the trigger, the screen goes completely black for a millisecond, this is a cheat detection method, then a white square flashes on the target for another millisecond, if the gun detects the white square then it registers a hit.

The reason the zapper won't work on HDTV's is because the TV is a few milliseconds behind and thus the white square flashes too late for the gun to detect it.

>> No.680102

>>680097
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3tBk-LYyzo

>> No.680103

>>680097
>The reason the zapper won't work on HDTV's is because the TV is a few milliseconds behind and thus the white square flashes too late for the gun to detect it

That's not what the Wikipedia page says. It says the guns don't work because plasma and LCD pixels do not turn off between refreshes

>> No.680106

>>680085
You lose out scaling delays that way, but they still have input delay even at native resolutions.
You're not getting two totally contradictory stories. You're confusing the word reduce and eliminate.

>> No.680109

>>680106
>You lose out scaling delays that way, but they still have input delay even at native resolutions

Plasma doesn't have input delay, only scaling delay

>> No.680107

>>680091
> >>680076 here
You're definitely not me.
I'd know if you were me, I'm me.

>> No.680117

>>680109
We already went over that. You're wrong, read the thread.

>> No.680116

>>680103
That was my point. The game draws a white box on the screen because that takes all three CRT electron guns, producing a stronger beam that the Zapper can pick up.

Remember: CRTs hurt your eyes because the electron beam is shining into them

>> No.680119

screw paying for LCD's
the thrift store near me regularly sells 15 inchers for 99 cents
i've got a 19 incher sitting on my desk top that i got for 10 bucks
and when they crap out, i found a recycling place that will pay me for them

>> No.680120

>>680103
For most light guns like the capcom gun-con that is true, but not the NES zapper.

>> No.680121

>>680116
Right as the beam passes over the screen (when it's drawing the white box), it's picked up by the Zapper and flagged as a hit.

>> No.680125

>>680121
No, there are guns that work like this but the Zapper does not. LCD pixels don't change state fast enough for them to work.

>> No.680129

>>680125
Is this a condition of the panel or is it an upscaler problem? If so, a box would correct that.

>> No.680130

I heard somewhere that light guns only work on 60Hz refreshes and if you ran a CRT at 70Hz or up they don't work

>> No.680132

>>680129
Even with a scaler box, there is still too much lag.

>> No.680134

>>680130
That is true; in fact the original IBM CGA card supported light pens but they dropped it when they went to VGA because that refreshes at 70Hz and there's insufficient screen flicker for it to work.

IOW, light guns/pens depend on just the right amount of screen change.

>> No.680136

>>680132
Have you tested any boxes? Genuinely curious

>> No.680140

>>680136
No, but scalers only help with scaling lag not input lag.

The zapper wouldnt even work on an SD LCD with a native resolution of 480i.

>> No.680143

>>680116
>producing a stronger beam that the Zapper can pick up.
No. The light from a CRT is not brighter than the light from an LED for candela typically. And the only thing you get from 'three electron' guns focusing on a spot is called the color white. Which IS what the game picks up, a white lit square (really it picks up any light in the gun and considers it a hit target, doesn't need to be from the screen, it just needs to be timed appropriately)

>Remember: CRTs hurt your eyes because the electron beam is shining into them
No, it's hitting a phosphorous backed overlay.
It's like a lightbulb.

Everything you said is pretty much wrong.

>> No.680147

>>680143
> from an LED for candela typically.
Derp I meant LCD, though also from an LCD LED or a LED TV if you could ever find one.

>> No.680153

>>680147
Of which typical cd/m^2 is ~230 or so for CRT monitors, ~350 for CRT TVs and 400-700 and even up to 1000 for some LCD displays. CRT monitors are typically 2/3rds as bright as a TV and LCDs are typically twice as bright as TV. Interestingly the whites on LCDs that aren't using their brightness tend to seem greyer than CRT.

>> No.680154

>>679921
plasmas have darker blacks

>> No.680158

>>680156
haha no not really, my lg plasma is way better than anyone's lcd monitors i know of

>> No.680156

>>680154
Eh, not really. They're roughly the same as LCDs.

>> No.680157

>>680140
Obviously not because there's no electron beam on them

>> No.680160

>>680134
They did have light pens on PCs well into the VGA era because all modes above 400 lines use 60Hz

>> No.680164

>>680160
>>680134
Oh rly. It seem then that CRT-kun in here is lying through his teeth when he claims only LCDs can't work with light gns.

>> No.680168

>>680157
The zapper does not use electron beams, it will register any light source that is timed correctly.

Some people have gotten it to work by pointing it at a light bulb.

>> No.680167

>>680164
Basically right. He also flat out lied about plasma black levels.

>> No.680171

>>680158
Then know of more LCD monitors.

>> No.680172

>>680025
>I know that. Like the old IBM monochrome monitors. Those smear like fuck

So IOW I can't use a light gun or play fighter games on IBM mono monitors because of their long persistence phosphor.

>> No.680176
File: 1.31 MB, 2176x3264, 2013-05-16 00.20.51.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680176

no

>> No.680178

>>680168
>Some people have gotten it to work by pointing it at a light bulb

Hmm, I wonder if that can be used to cheat and get Duck Hunt to work on LCDs. Point the gun at the room's light fixture instead of the TV.

>> No.680179

>>680167
And plasma lag as well. The pixels don't lag, only the upscaler.

>> No.680181
File: 67 KB, 1024x681, dark_caption.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680181

>>680171

>> No.680183

>>680172
Right...the Zapper draws a white box and rapidly deletes it in two frames. Since on a 60Hz CRT, the phosphor decay is quick enough that it can be picked up by the gun.

>> No.680186

>>680178
> Duck Hunt to work on LCDs.
>Point the gun at the room's light fixture instead of the TV.
Did you read that? you want duckhunt to work on LCDs by not using LCDs.

Exactly how are you planning on aiming at ducks when not aiming at ducks?

>> No.680187

>>680183
I don't know how light pens on IBM CGA cards worked. Probably more like Capcom guns (ie reading the electron beam)

>> No.680191

>>680179
>The pixels don't lag, only the upscaler.
Yeah all that shit has been over. No.
Go back to fucking off over at LG. I'm sure they'll close your shit down just like panasonic's doing with their plasma.

>> No.680192

>>680186
>look at screen
>hold gun up at light bulb
>press trigger any time you like since the bulb always produces enough brightness for the game to detect

I'm going to have to try this some time and see if it really works.

>> No.680193

>>680191
>guy loses argument
>Hurp u must work for LG

Why have you become /v/, /vr/?

>> No.680194

>>680191
>Go back to fucking off over at LG. I'm sure they'll close your shit down just like panasonic's doing with their plasma

Are they bringing CRTs back in place of the plasma? Naw I didn't so.

>> No.680198

>>680192
> Duck Hunt to work on LCDs.

Yeah, you didn't ask how to get duck hunt to work on lightbulbs.
You questioned it working on LCDs.
You aren't aiming at shit, you aren't playing the game, you're playing click and time with a light bulb. You also need no light preceeding the frame before the duck light frames are rendered and you're still not making it work 'on an LCD' nor even playing the game.

>> No.680201

>>680076
Sounds to me like current fighting games are doing just fine and flat panels don't stop people from enjoying them

>> No.680203

>>680193
>Why have you become /v/, /vr/?
We went over this long ago, fuck off back to /v/ yourself retard.

>> No.680204

>>680194
>Are they bringing CRTs back in place of the plasma? Naw I didn't so.
They're going OLED or QD. It's pretty fucking simple really. What are you fucking stupid?

>> No.680205

>>680201
>Sounds to me like current fighting games are doing just fine and flat panels don't stop people from enjoying them
Well yeah, people bad at games have no problem playing bad games.

>> No.680206

>>680204
Cool. Then we will never need to use 300 pound dinosaur monitors again.

>> No.680208 [DELETED] 

>>680205
>>>/v/

>> No.680215

>>680206
>Cool. Then we will never need to use 300 pound dinosaur monitors again.
You wouldn't even need to. People would be using FED/SED if they were even going to bother using CRTs. Or make lighter thinner ones.
All of which is completely fucking irrelevant except to answer your retarded shitposting ass. So quit it and go find a shitty thread to fag up instead.

>> No.680216

>>680205
Now you're just being ridiculous and troll-level

>> No.680218

>>680194
>>680204
We might see SED being produced once the patents run out in a few years.

>> No.680227

>>680218
Maybe, but I wouldn't bet on it at all. I don't see why any manufacturers would ever choose it unless it cost less for royalties and even then printing out OLED monitors will be so fucking cheap eventually that no reasonable royalty fee could even be more expensive than SED. It's just not going to have a chance price wise and it's not going to have any meaningful benefit beyond perhaps lifetime and once OLED/QDs are cheap, that won't even be a price point. I don't see them getting back in the game honestly.
They had a small window of opportunity to hit the market and they missed it.

>> No.680239

>>680227
>"missed it"
Thats as historically ignorant as it gets.

>> No.680240

>>680227
Also SED will still be thicker and heavier than OLED and requires vaccuums.
OLEDs can also come in flexible varieties which may eventually lead to cheaper more prominent curved surface displays for full field of view display.
One day we might see full fov 240hz 3D displays with iris tracking.

>> No.680247

>>680239
Okay, please tell us your revisionist history mister alternate dimension.

>> No.680258

>>680247
Missed the window means it made it to the marked, during its time. So far, it has not missed its window, it has been bolted inside its house.

>> No.680276

>>680258
No, they attempted to work on, it and they got their shit holed up. Missing their window of opportunity isn't the same as hitting the fucking wall jumping at it. It passed them.
If I want to buy shit on sale and I forget and find out it the day after the sale has ended, I don't have to show up at the fucking store to know I missed my window of opportunity to get it on sale.
Likewise as I also said, they had a small window to hit the market, they did not hit the market. There was a window where it was viable to do so, that time has passed, they missed it. I did not say to be successful in the market. SED doesn't have anyone particularly interested in making them now because they would most likely fail against competing technology in mid-long term.

And in this case, you provided no historical knowledgeable account nor refuted anything I said. Are you done?

>> No.680340

>>680216
Enjoy being a pleb casual who likes shitty games on a shitty LCD TV

>> No.680343

>>680340
I used to work at Best Buy and the day CRTs died was met with huge celebration. Moving and shipping those monstrosities is something we don't want to ever see again. Have you tried lugging a 32" CRT TV up a flight of stairs?

It sucks.

>> No.680431

>>680103
That's actually EXACTLY what the wikipedia page says. Are you thick?

>> No.680435

>>680343
I have, a few times and by the time they died out, they were also lighter than they used to be. Especially the smaller ones. Fuck some of the 22 inch ones you can drag around with one hand with ease. Some of the 32 inches still only pushed around 100-120 lbs.
That being said, depending on the stairs it should be a problem if you bring a ramp and a truck and just pull the shit right up.

>> No.680441

>>680435
The picture quality on those short-necked tubes wasn't very good though. 90 degree CRTs always look the best.

>> No.680446

>>680435
Mind you, I'm not saying it's great. Getting plasmas or LCDs that weigh almost nothing is great to lug around in comparison. Really the big loss is CRT monitors, which of the heaviest were typically just under 100lbs like the GDM-FW900. 19-20 inch 4:3 ones could range between 50-85 lbs.

>> No.680636
File: 1.22 MB, 3280x2460, 100_3169.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680636

>CRT Thread
>101 posts, 4 images
>Only the OP has a CRT in it
Do you even imageboard?

>> No.680641

I'm filtering KyaDash's trip

>> No.680647
File: 10 KB, 175x186, sony_gdmf520_crt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680647

>>680636
OP here, the image is not even mine.

>> No.680651
File: 1.55 MB, 3280x2460, 100_3175.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680651

>>680647
I know. It still at least had a CRT in it

>> No.680863
File: 1.10 MB, 702x647, 130795683660.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680863

Can any of you help me with a problem I'm having?

I can't get my PS2 to output RGB. I have it hooked up to my CRT with scart but the TV won't switch to RGB. I've tried two different cables, one of them a cheap one from ebay and the other from play-asia.

I recall reading somewhere that it might have something to do with the pins in the scart cable and voltage.

Thoughts?

>> No.680882

>>680863

There's actually an option to output RGB in the BIOS if I remember correctly. Load it up with no games and hit square to get to it, I believe.

>> No.680970
File: 9 KB, 399x300, 6E4CB56.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
680970

>>680882

You mean the system configuration? Yeah, I've set it to RGB there, but no dice.

>> No.681007

>>680970
As far as I know, PS2 uses sync on green. The TV must support it too, or else it probably detects composite.

>> No.681376

>>681007
Is that different from whatever the SNES uses? Because I can get crystal clear RGB from the SNES.

>> No.681461

>>680636
I have a CRT but I don't want to plug it in right now.
Samsung 957MB.
Manage 2048*1536 at 60Hz (spec is 1920*1440 at 64Hz at max).

>> No.681545

So I want to have the optimal display device for my /vr/ games, but don't know shit about TVs. Where do I get a 101 on this shit? I've stuck with CRTs because of display lag but I don't really know anything else about them.

>> No.681729

>>681376
SNES probably uses composite sync.

>> No.681848

Does anyone know if PS1/PS2 use composite sync or sync on green?
Can I connect to a TV with scart directly, or does the sync need to be filtered?

>> No.681851

>>680198
>>680192
How do you figure the game tells which of the ducks you shot if all it's looking for is light?

>> No.682256
File: 690 KB, 1501x997, IMGP3969.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682256

>> No.682298

>>680064
>Most fighting game enthusiasts insist on playing on an arcade cab with a RGB arcade monitor.
That explains all of the giant CRTs in use at Evo.

Oh, wait... You're full of shit.

>> No.682317

>>680970
I'm going to ask the obvious question: Are you plugging in to a socket that's wired for RGB?

There are a bunch of CRTs out there that only support RGB on some of their inputs.

>> No.682368

>>682317
Yes. My CRT has two scart inputs, only one of them supports RGB. I'm using that one.

>> No.682409
File: 1.17 MB, 3280x2460, 100_2503.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682409

>>682256
Pretty

>> No.682436

I'm conflicted. I have the option of hooking my Dreamcast up to a standard CRT TV with S-video or a Trinitron PC monitor with VGA.

With VGA, the colors are amazing, but the picture is WAY TOO FUCKING SHARP. Everything is jaggy as hell, as none of the edges are blurred.

With S-video, the colors are dull, and the picture is a bit blurry. However, this actually makes the sprites in my 2D fighters look better, as you don't see every single pixel.

I dunno what to do, man.

>> No.682454

>>681851

It's not just looking for light, but a pattern as well. Each duck has a different sequence of white blocks, so the game can tell which one you were aiming at.

>> No.682464

>>682454

Horseshit. The game displays a white block for one duck, then on the next frame it displays a white block for the 2nd duck, and so on. Watch Roo's video.

>> No.682561

>>680064
>Most fighting game enthusiasts insist on playing on an arcade cab with a RGB arcade monitor.
Speaking as one of them: No we don't, even the world-class guys. If Evo finalists can get by on an LCD then I'm not going to pretend the fraction of a frame's lag you see on a good screen is going to make or break my game.

>There are still lag issues in modern fighters, especially with wireless gamepads.
No. There really, provably aren't. Just fucking stop it.

Since you obviously consider yourself a big FGC guy here's the tests one of the more knowledgeable guys at SRK did a few years back including serious detail about the setup used. If you'd like to argue against it you'd better be prepared to bring a similar amount of detail and repeatable tests...

Sixaxis vs USB:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/2402510/#Comment_2402510

360 vs USB:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/2402519/#Comment_2402519

>> No.682586

>>682436
try sitting a little further away with your vga

>> No.682604

Here's a question:

If CRTs are so better, how come we can see the difference between the two?

Wouldn't it mean that since our modern screens can see both screens and their differences, we're better than CRTs?

>> No.682613
File: 4 KB, 251x205, 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682613

>>682604

wat

>> No.682623

>>682613
I meant that the CRT screens and something that kind of really don't ever do? Not that it matters much...

>> No.682626

>>682623

What is your native language?

>> No.682629

>>682604
are you stoned or something?

>> No.682627

>>682626
English

>> No.682645
File: 1.88 MB, 3280x2460, PVM Gate Sides2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682645

>>682604
>>682623
What the fuck man.

>> No.682647
File: 117 KB, 771x900, 1365310305179.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682647

>>682623
>the CRT screens and something that kind of really don't ever do?

>> No.682653

>>682604
>>682623
Okay there's a language failure here but I'll translate, I understand what he's getting at.

I think he's trying to ask: How can we see the difference between an LCD monitor and a CRT if we're viewing the image of the comparison between the two *ON LCD MONITORS*

It's because the difference in quality isn't something LCD monitors or tvs "can't display", if that was the case emulation filters wouldn't be possible. It's just how they look *by default*.

>> No.682656
File: 30 KB, 345x383, zmwk_hcVju_JaP9iAkJw4s6X3Gzn5eaMi6OLCvx2wP0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682656

>>682623
>the CRT screens and something that kind of really don't ever do?

>> No.682670

>>682653

I'm still lost.

>> No.682676

>>682653
NO NO NO
I'm trying to say that the CRT and LCD screens are contrast screen to what you see on your monitor which is wonder why the graphics are different

>> No.682683
File: 33 KB, 500x375, tumblr_mlrl0eSZa11qjhlhko1_500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682683

>>682676

>> No.682707
File: 10 KB, 360x270, KV-21LT1B SONY TRINITRON.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682707

I'm going to check out one like pic related (KV-21LT1B Sony Trinitron) next week. Seller claims it is as good as new, asking €70, might be able to talk him down to €60.
It has a scart input (I'm from Belgium), I'll be playing nes and snes most of the time. Already have a snes scart cable.
Would you say it's worth the price?

>> No.682713
File: 2.87 MB, 4950x1235, Crystal tri fit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682713

>>682653
I'm going to add, people have done comparisons of the games playing on both LCDs and CRTs simultaneously(be it from a video splitter, or having TVs with video out/chaining functions). That's actually what the OP picture is, though it's a PC based comparison rather than console based.

And, as has been said many times in the past, photos of CRTs never really do them justice.

Comparison of FFIX's title screen, linked image is composite, s-video, and component from a PS2. And this is from a PS3 on an admittedly not that great LCD.

I'll post the hi-res version of the LCD once it lets me actually go into my thread on /hr/
>>>/hr/1813490

>>682676
And now I'm confused again.

Did what I just say clear up your "question"?

>> No.682714

>>682707

I dunno about prices in Euroland, but in America, they tend to go for a lot cheaper.

>> No.682721

>>682713
God damn it.

https://images.4chan.org/hr/src/1368828869187.jpg

>>682707
>>682714
Yeah, going off of murrkian prices, that's a bit high.

>> No.682736

>>682714
>>682721
It seems like a lot of things are cheaper in America. At least compared to Belgian prices. In actual retro stores, so no lucky finds, a snes with cables and 1 controller is usually priced at €40~50 ($50~65).

>> No.682738
File: 9 KB, 335x320, sony_fd_trinitron_kv_29fx66e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682738

>>682707
germany here. Paid 15€ for for a Trinitron KV-29FX66E. So i guess 60 is a bit too much

>> No.682740

>>682736
That's about how much my local shop has them for. $60, give or take.

>> No.682742

>>682714

Yeah. you can find these TV's at a lot of pawnshops in my area for a sub $30 range.

>> No.682752

>>682738
>>682740
Hm. I'll look around a bit more then, but I might still go for it, since it's close to where I live and just size I'm looking for.
And I have 4 consoles but nothing to play em on...
Thanks for the input.

>> No.682760
File: 2.10 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0390.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682760

Just picked up a surge protector and a power cord from a thrift shop for $2. My free ($2 total) 20M4U is now complete.

I never realized how much lag my HDTV had, holy fuck. The picture quailty is fabulous on these PVMs.

obligatory shitty picture of my NES until I make some RGB cables.

>> No.682770

>>682676
okay then I have no fucking idea

are you the "has anyone really ever been far enough" guy

>> No.682767
File: 972 KB, 3280x2460, 100_3077.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682767

>>682760
>shitty picture
Looks pretty good to me.

>> No.682787

>>682604
I think what you're trying to ask is "how can we see the difference between a CRT/LCD if I'm seeing this image through an LCD in the first place?"

The answer is: Cameras are adjustable and relative. So while you can't see how black the CRT is in absolute terms, it's blackness has been set as a baseline for the black level of the camera, the black of the LCD is brighter than that, and that shows on the photo. When you view it on your screen, you aren't seeing the true quality of the CRT screen, but you can see how it compares to the LCD.

>> No.682807

>>682738
>>682752
I found a few more. Are all Trinitrons (besides the widescreens, obviously) good, or are there some rotten apples in there?

>> No.682810

>>682767
y-you too

>> No.682814

>>682807

So long as they have the proper inputs, it should be fine.

>> No.682831

>>682814
All I need is antenna for nes, and scart for snes and ps1, right?

>> No.682841

>>682831

You don't want to use RF for anything. Use composite for NES. Use RGB SCART for anything you can.

>> No.682845
File: 11 KB, 200x293, tv-question-mark.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682845

I'm having a 29" Trinitron and it flickers a little bit in 240p. Its not really noticeable while actually playing but if you stand still you can see that the picture "shivers".Is there anything i can do about this? I took a look at the service mode but i hae no clue what i should or can do there.

>> No.682849

>>682561

Even his test had some random oddities.

The problem with input lag is that it is cumulative. The EVO monitor has 8.8 MS of input lag iirc. Add that lag to the processing a console does (say it is 1.2 frames just for a number). You now have 2 frames of input lag.

Fun fact, even USB lags depending on what microchip you have in your PC that controls USB and what pcb is on the joystick.

>> No.682863

>>682841
Oh, right, I forgot that was an option, mine came with just the antenna cable. I should have some composite cables somewhere.
Does it only have yellow and red output because the sound is mono?
Most tv's seem to have composite connectors on the side or front, I don't think that will be a problem.

>> No.682872
File: 1.26 MB, 3280x2460, 100_2867.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
682872

>>682845
>it flickers a little bit in 240p
It could be getting some magnetic interference from something near by. I've had similar "problems":

When ever I run my GXTV at the same time as my PVM, both doing 480i, or if I only feed the PVM (240p or 480i), I get a bit of jitter.

>> No.682878

>>682863

>Does it only have yellow and red output because the sound is mono?

Yes.

>> No.682932

>>682849
>Even his test had some random oddities.
Indeed. Just using it to point out that 'wireless is laggier' is essentially false rather than to prove input lag isn't a 'thing.'

Anyway! Given that the oddities show a good mix of 'wins' in both directions it would seem to suggest that...

>processing a console does
>even USB lags
... the difference comes down to even more insignificant and borderline-immeasurable stuff like USB polling rate, processing being done on the signal, etc.

>> No.682964

>>682932

Are you forgetting Super SF4 input lag ps3 compared to xbox 360?

Not all USBs are created equal. I am just saying some motherboards usbs can be laggy (not all but i've seen some). It is a variable in the scientific method when you're testing on a PC for input lag.

>> No.683020

>>682964
>Are you forgetting Super SF4 input lag ps3 compared to xbox 360?
Oh no, not at all. As I said I'm solely pointing out there's no real difference when it comes to the wireless/wired debate. I'd agree that input lag in general is a real, measurable issue.

I've seen PC gamers waaaaay more hardcore than me arguing over different USB chipsets, generally the type whose mouse is worth more than my car.

>> No.683256

Am I the only one who gets headaches after staring at these pictures after one second?

>> No.684816

>using cancer-causing CRTs instead of upscalers
>2013

>> No.684830

>>684816
Fuck off, you obviously sell upscalers or are a paid shill for someone who does.

Or you are just a troll.

>> No.684873

>>682561
Personally I think the whole thing about fighters being unplayable on LCDs is bunk

>> No.685108

>>679819
Damn, I remember that picture from maybe 10 years ago.
Fucking thing was the reason I was lugging around a 50lbs monitor until 2008.

>> No.686190

>>682653
>It's because the difference in quality isn't something LCD monitors or tvs "can't display",
They can't.
LCDs can't demonstrate the response time of CRTs or the black levels.
Likewise CRT monitors or even TVs can't really show the white level brightness of LCDs. They could theoretically show black level issue in a rudimentary fashion. CRTs don't have HDR capabilities so they will never show how your eyes show really.

>> No.689078
File: 1.42 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20130518_224402_403.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689078

So I found a Sony PVM 1350 at a flea market today. I don't have any SCART cables yet so I tried hooking my PS3 up to it using component to bnc and having my PS3 output RGB 480p.

The colors look nice, but I've got this split image that I can't adjust. Is there anything I can do in the meantime or should I just wait and order the proper cables?

>> No.689118
File: 868 KB, 2460x3280, 100_3021.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689118

>>689078
It's doing that because you're feeding it a progressive scan image(480 P), and it can only display interlaced(480 I)

>> No.689192

Found a free CRT today.. I know it sounds super jewwy of me but I was kind of annoyed when I turned it on and it just makes the loudest BRZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT sound ever. I wouldn't be as annoyed, but god damn it's such a nice TV, and lugging it in just to see that it doesn't work was a pain.
It turns on, and I can see really fuzzy static on the screen, and I don't think the sound is coming from the speakers since I turend the volume all the way down. It also didn't seem like any of the buttons did anything.
I was thinking maybe it got hit with a magnet or something like that...
Anyone know what might be wrong with it, or is the problem too vague right now?

>> No.689197
File: 706 KB, 1324x1300, IMG_0465.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689197

>>689192
Forgot image.

>> No.689226

>>689118
Do you know how to force the PS3/Wii to do 240p? Is that something they only do over hdmi or can it be done with component or composite cables?

>> No.689231

>>689226
I'm pretty sure Wii automatically forces to 240p for VC games. Not sure about emulators on it like Retroarch though, probably same

>> No.689252

>>689226
I don't think that's even possible for the PS3.

The Wii does that automatically for certain VC games and emulators.

>> No.689258

>>689192
You've got a junk TV.

>> No.689263

>>689258
Y-you too...

>> No.689281

>>689263
What I meant by that was it's got issues you aren't going to be able to fix. If the tube's buzzing and putting out static, then the tv is very close to quitting entirely.

>> No.689289

>>689281
Ah, I see. That really blows... Sucks too since they had a couple other smaller CRTs too. Perhaps I'll go over there tomorrow and see if they still have them.

>> No.689332

>>689289
That's the risk of picking up curbed TVs. Someone wound up going behind my shed and taking my old TV. I kind of feel sorry for him. He probably got it back and turned it on, excited about his find, and then got his hopes crushed when he realized that I fried the green output.

>> No.689686
File: 345 KB, 2048x1154, Sony Profeel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689686

I can get this sony kx20ps1 monitor.

It has composite, RGB multi and SCART inputs, but i've read online that it doesnt switch to RGB through scart because consoles don't supply enough voltage.

1. does anyone know if it supports S-video through SCART
2. if i wired a 9v DC input to the switching pin on the scart connector would it switch to RGB?

>> No.689724
File: 2.21 MB, 2938x2203, sotn resized.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689724

Got a 15 dollar box to connect my pc to my CRT via the s-cable. Holy shit is it worth it. 2D games look phenomenal again. Just as important, motion is nice and fluid. I have all the benefits of emulation, plus the superior display.

It's a real shame. There's a generation who grew up without CRTs, and know only emulation. They think the pixilized mess and bad motion is how these old games are "supposed" to look. They're missing out.

The image is very clear, far clearer than the RF and composite that I was used to as a kid.

>> No.689758

>>680201

Tournaments use specially chosen displays that have been shown to have the minimal amount of input lag.

>> No.689760

>>689724
is there a box to turn my pc's hdmi or dvi to scart?

>> No.689765

>>689760
to 480i scart I mean

>> No.689774

>>681545

A shadow-mask CRT is what you should use.

http://emulation-general.wikia.com/wiki/Recommended_Displays

Ideally, this would eventually turn into a Display 101 FAq, but it's in its infancy. Anyone should contribute to it.

>> No.689776

>>681545

CRT SD display for SD games. Simple as that.

>> No.689778
File: 498 KB, 2048x1154, 1366621203648.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689778

>>689686
Heres the back.

If i can't get SCART to work, i might have to make my own cable for the multi input DIN.

>> No.689790

>>689192

TV's broke, sorry. Good thing is that CRTs are being thrown out, even perfectly working ones. Get one that works.

>> No.689824
File: 2.82 MB, 2326x3101, Alucard crt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689824

Close up of Alucard.

>>689724

That image isn't the best, because the flash from the light is causing the marble to look far lighter than it is. It's difficult to take pictures of tvs.

Something I've noticed is that NTSC shaders look far weaker on a real CRT. They're just nowhere near as blurry as on an LED. Using an RF shader, Super mario All-Stars kinda looks like what I remember. Very interesting. It may mean that NTSC shaders are simply being too literal, and not taking into account how they are displayed. We may need to make NTSC shaders that are as blurry as they would be seen on a CRT, not as they would appear on an LCD.

>> No.689850
File: 117 KB, 600x483, mfw kebabs near me.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
689850

I have a Commodore 1702 Monitor and I only use it for NES/Famicom games, but I'm constantly having to fidget with the horizontal and vertical position. I thought all NES games had the same aspect ratio, but it seems they're all over the place.

>> No.690056
File: 30 KB, 600x450, 3E23M63Le5N45E95Jcd5be17696ae907b108a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690056

here is my trinitron.

>> No.690058
File: 757 KB, 1200x718, 2013-05-14 17.37.14.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690058

>>690056
close up. SNES through s-video

>> No.690059
File: 1.53 MB, 1500x897, 2013-05-14 23.53.52.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690059

>>690058

>> No.690062
File: 1.29 MB, 1700x1017, 2013-05-16 17.45.17.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690062

>>690059
and from playing distance.

>> No.690075
File: 1.46 MB, 2560x1920, IMG_20130518_174333.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690075

Scooped out two cheap ass high quality CRTs in Columbus for you guys looking in central Ohio. They should be geo tagged but I'll post their locations this time since I can't say for sure.

First, 36" 2004 Trinitron with RF, Svideo, Composite, Component. $16 Salvation Army East Morse

>> No.690083

>>690075
Oh nice. I'm in Central Ohio.

What is the other?

>> No.690089

>>690075
Oh man, I live in Cbus and I just bought a 36 inch Triniton for $35 from someones yard sale I was informed about (My parents live in Upper Arlington and told me about it).
Good looking out though, I might pick up a 2nd one.

>> No.690092 [SPOILER] 
File: 1.58 MB, 2560x1920, IMG_20130518_185742.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690092

>Scooped
Scoped. I scoped them

Number two is a 34" 2006 Samsung 4:3 1080i with RF, Svideo, composite, component, DVI. $9.99

Found at Goodwill on East Broad.

I tried to get the prices in the pics (both were on top the cabinets) as proof there are fully acceptable displays out there cheap.

If that's still nitty cheap enough for you the Goodwill on East Morse has flat price "small/medium TVs 0.99 large TVs 1.99" they were all crap today though

>> No.690095

>>682368

Then are you sure the scart cables you are using are RGB and not svideo or the jap 21 pin RGB?

>> No.690097

>>690092
Don't know why that image is spoilered but still there you go. Go get 'em.

>> No.690110
File: 158 KB, 1024x768, PhotoJan1333900PM_zps906739d1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
690110

>> No.690113

>>690110

Glorious.

>> No.690135

So what are some good screens to look out for, and ones to avoid?

>> No.690145

>>690135
Most people put the Tron on top because aperture grille. Toshiba and Samsung make sick sets too though and I've discovered I'm not alone in my love of RCAs deep blacks. Don't buy generic shit but if you make sure what you buy has component inputs you should avoid the trash just as a side benefit.

Funniest trash TV brand prize in my thrift shopping Saturday was a "Megatron". I should have taken a pic of it.

>> No.690160

>>690145
>Don't buy generic shit but if you make sure what you buy has component inputs you should avoid the trash just as a side benefit.

Well the reason I even ask is because while at goodwill earlier I saw a few random no name TVs with component imputs.

>> No.690168

>>690160
How much did they want for them? Around here Goodwill prices are so low you're only risking your back from lugging them home to test. A lot of times you can get an idea of the quality of the tube just from the way they display the menu boxes and text.

>> No.690176

>>690168

Like all of them had 49.99 on them. Even the sets without component.

>> No.690181

>>690176
Nah screw that buy from Craigslist instead.

>> No.690190

That's like some dumbass Ohio Thrift TV price. They got over $100 on some of them shits! Who pays that when the prices are a fraction of that right down the street at the Salvo & Gwill?

>> No.690191

>>690181

Kinda why I was trying to ask to see if there are some good ones to look out for so I could start searching for direct model numbers.

Wish my parents didn't toss out their old trinitron years ago. Even had a nice stand that went with the tv frame that I could fit a few retro systems in. Woulda picked that up now in an instant.

>> No.690195

>>690191
No generic CRT is gonna be worth $50. To me, no CRT is worth $50 period.

>> No.690198

>>690195
>To me, no CRT is worth $50 period.

Not even them pvm and bvm screens?

>> No.690208

Is there anything close to the trinitron fw900 that I can actually buy? I really want one of those but can never find any in good condition or local.

>> No.690229

>>690198
Not to me. I got my PVM for 0.99

Plus $32 shipping

>> No.690240

>>690208
Not that I know of that's a pretty tall order.

>> No.690245

>>690208
I guess there's an offbrand version aka the HP A7217A and looks like some guy in New Jersey has one pretty cheap. Are you in New Jersey?

>> No.693457

>>690240
I figured as much.

>>690245
I'm on the east side of PA so it may be possible to get it depending on where in Jersey they are.

>> No.693538
File: 387 KB, 1600x1200, $T2eC16NHJIIE9qTYI192BRZHk(gZQg~~60_57[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
693538

>>693457
Bloomingdale. He's selling it because his cleaning lady fucked up the antiglare coating. Pic related. eBay id is fxt170 my guess is he'd sell it for $50

>> No.693596

>>693538
I wonder how hard/dangerous it would be to replace the coating. That's about a 3 hour drive from here but probably worth it. Thanks for the info Anon.

>> No.693617

>>693596
I would just clean the rest of the coating off and then if it was too reflective maybe put one of those antiglare stick on screen protectors for tablets if you can get sheets that big.

>> No.694191
File: 29 KB, 598x600, 186954_20.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694191

I can get a Sony PVM-14N5A for $30.

Is it worth it?

>> No.694237

>>694191

Neg. Don't think that is one of the ones with RGB, so it is worthless. Can get a like 30" trinitron with component input for that price.

>> No.694352

>>694237
they come in 30"?!

>> No.694412
File: 81 KB, 500x375, 36_model_kv-36xbr400_w_stand_24214801.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694412

>>694352
They come in 36"

I think there might even be a 40", but they weight like 150kg.

>> No.694445
File: 747 KB, 4000x3000, img_01183.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694445

I passed on a Sony Trinitron for $5 at a garage sale the other day.

I have no idea if it was a shitty move. It was probably a 32" and had the A/V ports on the front. Unsure the ports on the back, I was in a hurry.

Pic related. It was exactly this but a bigger screen.

>> No.694457
File: 219 KB, 500x658, 1352772647649[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694457

>>694412
yes but I have a big oak entertainment center I'm using

I have a 27" Sharp in there that's dying, and I know the 32" Trinitron is too wide to fit, so a 30" might be just right, goldilocks-style

>> No.694463

>>694445
>Unsure the ports on the back, I was in a hurry.

That is the important part. Think all of them have a composite port on the front. Not all of them have component on the back. Much like how a PVM is worthless without the RGB, you would be dumb to buy any other without component input.

Think this is a model list of the last set of trinitrons

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

There is some misinformation in it though as I know I've seen some things that are marked as not having some inputs have them.

>>694352
>they come in 30"?!

And heavy as all hell. Like bring friends to lift them.

>>694457
>I have a 27" Sharp in there that's dying, and I know the 32" Trinitron is too wide to fit, so a 30" might be just right, goldilocks-style

Depends on what ones you get. Think the last models of the trinitrons had the speakers on the side, making them really wide, wile others had them on the bottom.

>> No.694476
File: 1.98 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0396.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694476

>timing photographs.

>> No.694491

gaddamn someone in Lake Forest is offering a fukken 40" mitsubishi

>> No.694506

my roommate actually owned one of these fucking behemoths, got rid of it months before I got into retrogaming http://www.ebay.com/itm/Huge-Classic-Gamer-TV-Sony-Trinitron-XBR-40-Inch-Tube-tv-from-late-90s-look-/310658834969?pt=Televisions&hash=item4854b5a219

>> No.694543
File: 12 KB, 252x240, 1325169486299.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694543

Daily reminder that an X-RGB Mini upscaler produces better results than a CRT except it works on any television no matter the size.

Hipsters gonna hip.

>> No.694551

>>694543

And costs like $400, as opposed to the $20 of a tube at goodwill.

>> No.694554

>>694543
Daily reminder that those cost 500 fucking dollars and for that much dosh you can build a motherfucking throne of CRTs

ARE you actually viral marketing this shit? Line doublers are fancy but most people aren't willing to throw down half a grand just to play some mario twins. I'm beginning to get suspicious.

>> No.694560

Just picked up a 27" Trinitron for $25, last of the rounded-screen models from 2001, with a single S-video/composite input. Why is everyone on the RETRO board going autistic over component input and shitposting about modern fighters? This thread sucks ass.

>> No.694561
File: 67 KB, 761x333, Screen Shot 2013-05-20 at 12.51.07 AM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694561

>>694543
>dat price

I could buy surprise at dinosaur peak for that shit nigga.

>> No.694563
File: 16 KB, 505x565, 1360056179236.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694563

>>694543
>my $500 device is better than your $20 one
>durr

>> No.694572

>>694560
I'll go for that, you've convinced me

>> No.694606

>>694543
>Why buy a CRT when you can just buy a $500 upscaler and a $500 flatscreen?

>> No.694629

>>694560
>Why is everyone on the RETRO board going autistic over component input

It is the easiest, cheapest way to make your retro systems look as good as they can. Like it is the best thing aside from full RGB output that you can easily get.

>> No.694632

>>694560
You can get a SCART to YUV converter for $50 that produces some very nice pictures. It's basically the step between Svideo and RGB for retro systems

>> No.694652

>>694561
>dat price
dem 1.5 stars

>> No.694883

Hey guys I picked up a Samsung GX CRT (the gaymen Tv that's 13 inches) with those baller speaker doors but the right door has some sort of issue. It only works properly when I angle the door and even then it's intermittent. Do you think that's an issue that's easily solved? It comes off as the wiring is being "pinched" but I've never wrked on a CRT tv much less any TV. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks guys.

>> No.694935
File: 25 KB, 505x497, 5_way_scart_splitter_box_634592233504695759_2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
694935

I have 4 consoles with SCART RGB, but only one SCART input.

Would something like this give me effectively 5 inputs?

>> No.694992

>>694935

Yes, but they also vary in quality, and can end up giving you a worse picture if you go for cheap ones. How much are you looking to spend, and where do you live?

>> No.695003

>>694992
The one on ebay is about $10, i'm in Australia.

If it's shit, i can always just open it up and rewire it.

>> No.695186

>>694935
I just ordered one to turn into my scart to 5bnc adapter. You know they don't switch, right? Just combine.

>> No.695206
File: 30 KB, 344x291, yeah-nah.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695206

>>694543
>$500 upscaler
>massive input lag

>> No.695223

Nobody have a clue about >>694883
I didn't spend a lot of money on it (10 bucks) but aside from this it's fantastic for my PS1. I'd love to fix this annoying sound issue.

>> No.695246

>>695223
It should be easy if you can get the speaker off. It'll just be a two lead wire, low voltage not dangerois. You should see where it's kinked. Cut that part out and resplice it. If you want to do it right, find where the ire leads and replace the whole thing but that might take soldering.

>> No.695252

>>695223
Sounds like a wire is loose.

>> No.695278
File: 53 KB, 800x600, S3010002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695278

>>695246
>>695252

I popped off the speaker/door housing and looked at the two wires connected to the speaker and they appeared solidly connected on that end. I didn't open the main CRT housing but if I do, what should I be careful about. I can supply pictures when I get home. I can't at the moment. At work.

Here's a photo of it I found on the internet.

>> No.695406

>>695278

Most likely the wires have frayed or come apart from being cold worked at the point at which they're bent from opening and closing the doors.

This will happen inside the wire cladding so it's unlikely you'll actually see it just by looking.

When in doubt, run a whole new wire end to end.

>what should I be careful about

Capacitors the size of soda cans. If one of those discharges through you, it WILL kill you.

>> No.695412

>>695406

Is there any way to discharge the CRT safely? I won't mind buying a specialist tool to be safe. I suppose it's also worth mentioning, is it going to expensive if I take it down to a TV repairman? I don't mind doing shit myself but if it's dangerous then I'll defer to a specialist.

>> No.695442

>>695412
>Is there any way to discharge the CRT safely?

A screwdriver and an alligator cable.
I'm not even kidding.

Clip one end of the cable onto the screwdriver shaft and the other onto a metal piece of the TV frame, then touch the flyback transformer's anode with the screwdriver tip.

One touch should be sufficient but if not keep poking it until it stops making arcing sounds.

Make sure the screwdriver has a thick plastic handle, and you should wear rubber gloves too.

>is it going to expensive if I take it down to a TV repairman?

Extremely.

>> No.695458
File: 29 KB, 400x301, connectcamtv2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695458

>>695442

Figured it be expensive. I'll prolly have to go out and buy a good alligator clip and rubber gloves. I've never taken a TV apart. I'll post pictures when I get home, just so we know what I'm dealing with here.

Also one of the Y/R/W jacks is missing the yellow input cover but works fine when plugged into the plastic input base, will that damage the TV in any way? Is it easy to fix? I highlight what I mean in this picture. Is that metal ring around the input essential?

>> No.695463

RGB for clarity, or composite for blending, anything in between is a waste of time.

>> No.695468

>>695458

That's the ground shield. It's non-essential if and only if whatever you have plugged in also runs the audio grounds through common (Which is the case with most consoles and their AV cables). The video ground will have to take the long way around, but will still be grounded.

You can get replacement RCA jacks at electronics hobby shops or online. The exact model you'll need depends on how it's mounted inside the case.

>> No.695472

>>695468

It's a PS1 AV cable if that helps at all.

>> No.695479

>>695442
You can melt holes screwdrivers like that fyi. I've seen it done.
Probably a better way is to find the rating or use a high estimate from any info you can find. Then calculate the maximum current and get a high voltage resistor and proper copper cable that can handle that wattage you're putting through it, then clip that up to the anode to slowly discharge it without arcing. Obviously if you use a high resistance, it'll take longer but you won't need as high wattage, but you should still use a high voltage resistor so it doesn't arc.
Both methods work, but discharging it slowly would be the safer option and is less riskier for anything you're arcing.
Rubber glove is a good idea, also, make sure you aren't wearing any jewelry on your hands and a good technique is to put one of your hands in your rear/front pocket and work with only one hand so you never risk shorting shit over any vitals when working with high voltage. Going across the heart is what you don't want to do with electricity.

>> No.695482
File: 11 KB, 481x308, capdis.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695482

>>695479
That's how you find out how much current you're dealing with and how long it'll take.
Initial current t=0 -> e^0 = 1 -> v0/R

>> No.695486

>>695472

Yes, those things combine the ground wires to a single pin (pin 6). The video will ground out through the audio jacks since it lacks its own shield.

>> No.695494

>>695458

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV9Td8vAb0Y

>> No.695570

>>695458
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/static/electrical-safety-gloves-inspection-classification-262.html
If you're going to bother with gloves.
A lot of people don't. Can't say how many people do get fucked up from it, just don't touch shit willy nilly and don't stick both hands in and it'll go a long way towards keeping you safe.
Typically at that rate, the worst that happens is you fuck up your hand/arm, if you're lucky only get welted and perhaps light burns if the current isn't that strong. If it is, you can fuck up your hand bad. But it's typically not too bad to do anyway. You can see videos online of people discharging them the 'unsafe' way.
For example, a 300V capacitor in the nanofarad range can numb your arm and leave welt marks where it discharges, won't do any long term damage but will be odd as fuck for a while.

>> No.695583

>tfw i pulled apart my parents CRT TV when i was 12 and didnt even know it was dangerous

Hell, the only thing i was afraid off was the tube imploding.

>> No.695590
File: 25 KB, 448x600, KV-ES34M31.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695590

This baby is for sale pretty close by for $70 Aufailia dollars. It seems like an ok deal if not a bit too expensive. Opinions?

Model number: KV-ES34M31

>> No.695595

>>695590

*Ausfalia

>> No.695606

>>695590
It's an ok price for what it is, but i would offer $50.

Just be aware that it will weigh a fucking ton.

also make sure that it has S-video and component inputs, pretty sure it would given the size but just to be safe.

>> No.695614

>>695590
That was the top of the line Japanese model when it came out, it will be amazing.

The case should be brushed aluminum.

>> No.695616

>>695590
here is the manual for it.

http://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-es34m31.pdf/download.html

>> No.695626

Alright, that's about what I thought too. I'll call the number tomorrow and ask if they will take fifty bucks. It's no biggy if it's a cunt to lift, I'm a big bastard and so is my brother so we'll get it into the ute.

STRAYA, etc. Thanks for the advice.

>> No.695643

>>695206
The X-RGB Mini has no lag whatsoever. A minuscule percentage of a single frame.

>> No.695654

>>695643

Small consolation when you're feeding it to an HDTV that's laggy as fuck even without scaling.

>> No.695656

>>695616

Just had a read of this, looks like it does have RGB and S-Video. If I can get this thing for $50 I'll be laughing.

>> No.695669

>>695656

Component is not the same thing as RGB.

>> No.695675
File: 99 KB, 763x471, manual.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695675

>>695669

Well sure, I really don't know what I'm looking at, so you tell me.

>> No.695676
File: 11 KB, 130x179, 1354703236446.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695676

>>695654
Yeah...maybe if you're still using a HDTV from 2007.

>> No.695681

>>695643
>2 frames for DVI
>TV only has DVI/HDMI and no VGA

Welp.

>> No.695683

>>695643

Yes it does. It has 6-8 ms of lag. Oh you can't notice half a frame? That is simply not true.

Say your HDTV has 26 ms of lag. Add that 6-8 mson top of it and you now have another frame of lag (one frame is usually 16.6 frames at 60 fps)

Fantastic device frame meister is, but it sucks for 480i shit.

>> No.695686

>>695676

Yeah, no. If anything they've gotten worse by adding in even more image processing you can't disable.

Plasma's not so bad if you can find a unit that doesn't try to provide TRUE CINEMA EXPERIENCE.

LCD on the other hand is still utter shit for input lag.

>> No.695694

>>695683
>Fantastic device frame meister is, but it sucks for 480i shit.

Yes, but I thought we were talking about retro games (e.g. 240p).

Also the Framemeister's lag is like 10% of a frame or something like that.

>> No.695697

>>695686
Sorry, I have a 48 inch LCD from two years ago and I can't tell the lag difference between it and my old 12 inch Zenith CRT built in 1990. I know that there is a lag difference because I can't play Duck Hunt on it, but it's not something that is noticeable by any human standards.

My friend however has an LCD from about 5 or 6 years ago that has almost a quarter second delay, even using game mode. Wall jumping in Super Metroid is impossible on that TV.

>> No.695698

Dont mind me guys

>>>/g/33925897

>> No.695712

>>695694

It's around half a frame at 60Hz, and that's only in line doubling mode (B1). ie: it pulls 240p up to 480 and throws in some scanlines. B1 also does horrible things to 320x224 content so it's pretty much restricted to 240p.

You have to run B0 to upscale to an HDTV, and this adds minimum 2 frames of lag.

>> No.695716

>>695697
the duck hunt thing isn't about lag is it? it's about the screen not reflecting light back

>> No.695717

>>695712
It's either that or have in your home an outdated flickery CRT bomb (not to mention, totally lacking sex appeal) which will inevitably require repairs in a few years time and there won't be anybody left to repair it.

Meanwhile the Framemeister will continue to work with future display technologies that will surely fix all of the problems with LCD.

>> No.695719

>>695717
>outdated flickery CRT bomb (not to mention, totally lacking sex appeal)

Hahaha projecting much?

You're a terrible salesman.

>> No.695721

>>695716
Yeah its the lag. Even if it seem instant it's actually juuuuust too slow for the gun to see the flash

>> No.695723

>>695716
It's entirely about the lag. The zapper takes a picture in a single millisecond, and there's no way to adjust the timing without rewireing something in the zapper or reprograming Duck Hunt itself to account for the lag difference.

>> No.695731

>>695716
>>695721
>>695723
Here's a good video explaining how the Zapper works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3tBk-LYyzo

>> No.695732
File: 453 KB, 1044x1692, 544574.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695732

>>695721

It reads the scanlines. It is not about the input lag.

>>695717

Most CRTS just need a cap replacement.

picture related, mai sex appeal

>> No.695736

>>695719
I'm not trying to sell anything.

Just to knock some of the smugness out of the /vr/ CRT cult.

>> No.695737

uh, I have no idea what I should be looking for, I wanna buy a new CRT that looks good for my SNES and Genesis, what should I be looking for?

>> No.695739

>>695732
No, it's the lag, watch >>695731

>> No.695745

>>695736

Either way, you've failed at what you set out to do.

>> No.695746

>>695739

Guy said it was just a theory. There are already lcds out there with 8 ms of lag. By his theory the gun would work.

Lets take that a step further. Put it on a pc monitor with a line doubler, will still not work.

It is frame based like he said. All other light guns use scanlines.

>> No.695761

Hey CRT owners, if CRTs are so good why don't you still have your old ones?

>> No.695763

>>695737
Hi, I'm this guy >>695590
I know nothing either, but I found that big fucker and apparently it's good.
The least you need to look for is a TV with component, which is the yellow/red/white plugs. The better quality machine, the better picture you'll get. Hope this helps.

>> No.695764

>>695763

well then, thank you

>> No.695771

>>695761
Perhaps a lot of people just thought LCDs were better and that they wouldn't need their CRTs anymore.

I had my old Amiga monitor in storage for a long time before I got rid of it, now I'm thinking I could have still used it.

>> No.695772

>>695763
Component is the red green and blue plugs, it is for more modern consoles like Wii, xbox and PS2.

You can also get component to RGB converters to use with older consoles.

>> No.695773

>>695761
Well I sold most of my old consoles to buy newer ones and I bought a LCD when i got my PS3.

It wasnt until i wanted to buy older consoles again that i realized how bad they looked on HDTV's

>tfw Sega master system through RF on a LCD.

Pig disgusting.

>> No.695776

>>695746

The way the NES zapper works is well-documented. We know all it does is look for black and then white during a screen flash and doesn't even know what scanlines are.

The fact that all zapper games operate the same way with frame by frame on-screen target registration is another obvious indicator.

>There are already lcds out there with 8 ms of lag. By his theory the gun would work.

All this tells me is that either the actual lag is still too high, or you've misread the TV's brochure.

>Put it on a pc monitor with a line doubler, will still not work.

PC LCDs are faster than TVs but they still aren't fast enough.

I know from experience that a NES Zapper will work on a PC CRT monitor fed by an XRGB mini line doubling w/o scanlines to 480, but not if that same setup is scaling to 480 instead.

>All other light guns use scanlines.

And this is patently false. The old Odyssey shotgun worked the same way the Zapper did. So did Nintendo's pre-NES standalone light gun games.

>> No.695779

>>695772

Like I said, I know close to fuck-all. Apologies to the anon I gave bad advice to.

>> No.695782
File: 26 KB, 587x255, boss coleco.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695782

>>695773

Hi.

>> No.695803
File: 572 KB, 420x600, 1266974962713.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
695803

Which CRTs do you guys recommend?

>> No.695883

>>695803
Richfag: Sony BVM
Moderate amount of money to blow: Sony PVM
Cheap (~$50) self collection from craigslist or ebay: Sony Trinitron 21"-30"
Poverty: Pick up any you find near a dumpster and give it a try.

>> No.696029

I never understood the whole CRT fetish. I used to love CRTs, but other monitor solutions have caught up. There's a reason why CRTs have move into the specialized imaging tool niche.

CRTs are only good for generating "true" blacks, but everything else about CRTs sucks.They are highly depended on RAMDAC quality and shielding for image quality. They have imperfect screen geometry. Tweaking can make it close, but it still a PITA. The monitors themselves are voluminous and heavy making them PITA to transport and mount in A/V and PC desktop setting. They are power hogs and generate as much heat as a modern PC.

The whole shack with input lag is a fucking joke. It is more placebo effect BS.

News to you numbskulls, the human body (brain, muscles and nervous system) is the largest bottleneck of "input lag". It operates at much, much slower then your display.

That's why stimulants (caffeine, meth) are the rage and dirty secret of the eSports arena.

>> No.696125

>>696029
>They are power hogs and generate as much heat as a modern PC.

"Modern" plasma screens actually consume more power than equivalent CRTs, and the gap only widens beyond 37" where CRTs switch over to rear projection.

50" RPCRT = 170W, 50" Plasma = 400W

LCDs are more efficient, but their performance is worse than either plasma or CRT.

>The whole shack with input lag is a fucking joke. It is more placebo effect BS.

Light guns don't work because of it and you quite literally cannot beat some games like Punch Out because they require reflexes the lag makes impossible.

>operates at much, much slower then your display.

Right, and this is why having low ping in network games confers no benefits.

SPOILER: Input lag is cumulative with human reaction time and that 60ms you can't even perceive still means you get shot first.

>> No.696136

>>696125
Light guns not working with CRT has nothing to do with input lag. You're pulling shit out of your ass.

>> No.696145

>>696136
*LCDs

>> No.696157

>>696136

see >>695731

They require frame-perfect response from the display after the trigger pull or they'll read the screen at the wrong time.

>> No.696178

>>696157
I don't think you're aware of this but light guns don't work at all on LCDs. It's not an input lag issue.

>> No.696185

>>696178

A NES zapper would work just fine on an LCD if one existed with zero input lag. It's not dependent on CRT technology at all outside of response time.

>> No.696190

>>696125

Even an LCD can burn more power than a rear projection TV. You're looking at around 260W for a 50" LCD vs 170 for the RP.

Projection CRT power consumption scales very well with size. Shouldn't really come as a surprise given that the guns don't have to get any bigger.

>> No.696205

>>696178

Depends on the type of gun. A Sega phaser actually tracks the electron beam and only works with CRTs because of this.

A Nintendo zapper on the other hand doesn't give a fuck if the TV is a CRT. The only thing it cares about is whether or not it can see the screen pattern set off by the trigger pull at the right time. There's no reason anything with a response time of less than one frame wouldn't work.

>> No.696545

>>695883
>Cheap (~$50) self collection from craigslist or ebay: Sony Trinitron 21"-30"

That you have made sure has component video. Just wanted to make sure that was pointed out.

>> No.696783
File: 282 KB, 1312x984, 100_3207.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
696783

>>695458
It has to be a common fault with the GX. Mine was missing them too when I picked it up.

>> No.697484
File: 2.02 MB, 3264x2448, 20130520_194338.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
697484

>>682807
Decided to get this one, cost me €50 >>696543

>and a picture of dem pixels.

>> No.697670

A local church was throwing out a fucking huge Trinitron today, but it was too big for me to carry on my own and my SUV was kinda full in the back. Thinking of emptying it out and going back later today to snag it.

Is there anything in particular I should know about this line? Like whether or not later or earlier models have any problems?

>> No.697907

>>697670
How old is it? Do you know if it has component input? Don't get it if it doesn't have at least S-Video.

>> No.697930

>>697907
It definitely has component input, it's not that old. If it's still around when I drive by I'll snag a pic and probably pick it up as well. Although I'm sure you guys have seen plenty of these kinds of TVs by now.

>> No.698265

>>697930
Pick it up, I have a later model Trinitron. As long as it's not HD you're golden.

>> No.698326

>>697484
That better not be a fucking stretched aspect ratio.

>> No.698364

>>697907
>Don't get it if it doesn't have at least S-Video
I always see this, sometimes with RGB as well. What console are you guys mostly playing on these? None of the ones I play on can even output S-video or RGB without very costly and difficult modifications.

>> No.698372

So the offbrand PVM I won for 99 cents on eBay arrived today and it isn't the same monitor pictured in the listing. It seems to work fine. Only tested composite so far since that was what it was displaying on the listing but looked good. I guess the seller didn't like the deal I got though because the case is pretty banged up.

His mistake. Now I have an open case on it. I'm hoping I'll get the one I bought and keep the one they sent or get a full refund just to keep me from leaving negative feedback. Think I should simultaneously open a case with Paypal as well just to be as big a problem as possible?

>> No.698382

>>698364
What systems are you playing that none of them do S-Video?

>>698372
Is it at least the same model?

Pictures?

>> No.698401

>>698382
Famicom, I'm not sure about SNES, but I do recall hearing it required heavy modding.

>> No.698406

>>698401
No, SNES does S-video and even RGB straight out of the box.

All of my photos of SNES games, unless stated otherwise, are S-Video.

>> No.698412

>>698382
Yeah it's the same model and they just now, just that fast issued me a full refund so my 20" PVM was... Free! Beat that!

I'll post some pics later. It's not bad at all as far as the damage goes. When I fired it up to test, the colors sort of washed across the screen from right to left as the gun came on. Hopefully that's normal.

>> No.698424
File: 34 KB, 250x250, Kirbstanza.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
698424

>Playing vidya
>Suddenly lightning storm
>Have to unplug everything because lightning damage paranoia

>> No.698505

Anyone have any experience with small (5") video monitors? I'm thinking of getting a tiny one to keep hooked up at my desk. Some of them even have RGB, which is overkill and unnecessary.

>> No.698515

>>698412
>When I fired it up to test, the colors sort of washed across the screen from right to left
As in everything tints to a red, and then goes to normal colors?

Mine does that. Seems normal to me.

>>698424
I know that feel. Both TVs that I had before my current ones died from power surges.

>> No.698551

>>698424
Hah. Lightning storms are easy to see coming. It's the random power surges that kill all of your electronics. I lost a $200 VCR when a surge killed my surge protectors, then hit hard enough again to fry everything that was still plugged in.

>> No.698560
File: 2.05 MB, 4140x2892, 1369099000936.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
698560

>> No.698654

>>698551
I hope this happened in the early 90's, or maybe you had some kind of astounding VCR.

>> No.698663

>>698654
VCR's still cost around 200 for a good one. They never really went below that.

>> No.698662
File: 147 KB, 1000x750, nkZzwKV.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
698662

So yea, I went on a hunt to find a CRT recently, and ended up getting a 55 inch Rear Projection HDTV because the craig's list ad said "Free big TV, Come and pick it up". Well, it wouldn't fit in my room, so i traded it for a 40 in. Rear projection HDTV. THEN, 2 days ago, after hunting for someone to buy the 40 in, or trade, this big duded my Mom's Boyfriend knows named Steve decided to trade me my TV for his 41 inch CRT. THIS THING IS A BEAST, and has SO many inputs. Anyone else have any experience with these big assed JVC TVs?

>> No.698670

>>698663
0/10

>> No.698673

>>698662
>41in CRT on that stand
I fear for that SNES's life.

>> No.698678

>>698662

That shelf looks like it's going to break any second.

>> No.698682
File: 205 KB, 800x533, Contra.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
698682

>mfw everyone was saying that SONY PVMs are heavy and you need help lifting them but they are actually light as hell.

>> No.698681

>>698662
JVC's are great, but i'd get a stringer stand for it.

>> No.698687

>>698682
No, that was said about the 30in+ normal Trinitrons/WEGA/XBR sets.

Though 70lb for a 20in CRT is a bit much.

>> No.698703

>>698687
no i was reading online before I got my PVM and everyone was saying that you need a friend. It almost made me get a 14.

>> No.698704

>>698681
It's temporary. I need something for it, yes.

>> No.698716

>>698703
>no i was reading online before I got my PVM and everyone was saying that you need a friend. It almost made me get a 14

Probably full retards who got use to lcds and forgot true heavy tvs. Fucken pvms even have nice handles on them.

>> No.698757

>>698716
I can attest to that! The UPS guy just was complaining when he dropped mine off today and I decided to unpack it right on the porch. 70 pounds in a cardboard box is a lot more than 70 pounds with nice handles.

>> No.698763

>>698757
I feel bad for the guy who had to bring mine up to my porch.

Dem steps can be a bitch.

>> No.698771

>>698763
It had a sticker on it that specifically said to use a dolly but I guess my ZUPS guy is just too macho and said "fuck that"

He did back in the driveway today though when he usually just stops in the street out front and runs stuff up

>> No.698779
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698779

>>698771
I have no idea if my guy used a dolly or not.

I had been up for 21 hours before hand, and was in bed.

Loud ass knock on the door got me up though.

Ended up staying up for a total of ~35 playing with the thing.

But seriously though, the box was fucking huge.

>> No.698916

>>698779
My box is currently in my front yard. I will say that, with the exception of building materials, it's probably the biggest thing I ever had delivered. I'm stoked that it didn't end up costing me anything.

>> No.698959
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698959

>>698916
Mine has been sitting in the dining room since it arrived in February.

Kept all the bubble wrap too.

>> No.699013

Still super jelly of you pvm fags.

>> No.699065

This thread seems like a good place to ask: The picture on my old woody Toshiba is getting kind of dark. Is this any easy fix or is my baby going to kick it some time soon? I've had her since the 80s...

>> No.699068

So what is the best one of those 20" PVMs? I see a few around, like the 20M4U and the 20M2MDU.

>> No.699098

>>699068
The M4U will have a sharper picture due to it's higher line count, and is probably newer.

The M2MDU has more than one component/RGB input, which may be useful depending your setup.

The M4 also happens to have a widescreen mode, but I'm not exactly sure of it's uses on a PVM.

>> No.699109

>>699098

Thanks, friendly friend. By the by, can you use both component or RGB on those inputs? Not that I would, just something I've been wondering since they are all labeled as such.

>> No.699121

>>699109
Yes, they'll accept either.

Even takes sync on green.

>> No.699141

>>699140
Yes.

>> No.699140

>>699121

Would still need a BNC plug on the ends though I assume, right?

>> No.699142

Can you believe I can't find a single one of mh retro svideo cables to hook to that pvm that came today? Freaking move. I'll look in storage tomorrow.

>> No.699298

>garbage day
>drive around looking for TV's on the sidewalk
>see 4 CRT's
>all but 1 had the power cables cut by some asshole who collects them for copper.
>the other one only have composite and mono audio

I really wish i hadnt missed out on all the good TV's being thrown out years ago when the government gave everyone $900.

>> No.699669

I saw some "enthusiast" claim that not all TVs can take a 240p signal through component, changing it to 480i. Is this true, and if so are our coveted Trinitrons able to take 240p through component? If not, then why do people bother to try to take the 3.3v charge out of the newly discovered component outs in the SNES?

>> No.699710

>still waiting for my SCART to BNC cable
I'm not getting a PVM until that fucker arrives.

>> No.699720

>>699710

Where did you even get it. Been browsing around and found some forums where members make them, but need to send them PMs or something to order.

>> No.699726

>>699720
There's some retrogamer site that sells them for some outrageous amount

>> No.699725

>>699720
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?235564-FS-Female-Scart-to-BNC-adapter-cables/page2
Bought it from him.

>> No.699735

>>699726

Seen them for around 20-30, which seems normal for custom cables. Pay just under that for the scart cables for all my old systems, but would only need one scart -> BNC anyway.

>> No.699756

>>698326
It's not.

>> No.700384
File: 34 KB, 640x480, 485408_392985354148343_1321327884_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
700384

I'm going to pick up this 29" Trinitron tomorrow, it only has S-video and composite, but it should do me until i can find something with either component or RGB

I'm looking forward to hearing what it's like with that subwoofer.

>> No.700480

>>700384

Where do you live bro? Like Craigslist is full of trinitrons with component around here, and most thrift stores and good will have them as well.

Hope that tv is like free-$10.

>> No.700507

>>700480
I've been looking for a while and the only ones with component are either too far away or don't have S-video.

It should be free.

>> No.700517

I have a 27" Sansui SDTV which says it will take 480p, 720p, and 1080i (and has Component inputs) but when I tuned it into the Wii on Progressive output it balked and couldn't display the system video anymore. The TV does work on Component 240p and 480i signals just fine.

Any ideas why it would mess up on these signals when it says it can handle them online? Is it still good TV when it can handle 240p and 480i on component (provided I get a SCART to YUV converter and cables)?

>> No.700583

>being this autistic

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dX21FI4xeQc

>> No.700890
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700890

>> No.700887
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700887

So how do I open this thing?

>> No.700891
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700891

>> No.700896
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700896

>> No.700920

>>700887

More importantly, how do I fix the right speaker? There isn't a break in the line anywhere, and the connections to speaker are fine.

>> No.700941

>>700583
oh my

>> No.700990 [DELETED] 

>>679819
Pathetic comparison image from 2004. Modern LCD's shit all over CRT displays. Enjoy your boxy blocks of obsolete shit you hipster cunts.
>>700887
>>700890
>>700891
>>700896
You're about the biggest faggot on this board right now.

>> No.701009
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701009

>>700583
;-;

>> No.702174

>>700920
Could it be that the speaker itself is just dead?

>> No.702528

>>702174
His problem is that he's not seeing where the wire is broken inside the insulation. He should just replace as much of the wire as possible and hope it corrects the problem.

>> No.703545

BEFORE YOU GO DIGGING AROUND A CRT:
Watch videos on safe handling of a CRT, and television repair. I believe you need a 1M Ohm resistor and a grounding tool to dump all of the energy into something other than your central nervous system and your heart.

If you can get access to the solder points for the speaker, connect other audio leads to it to see if the coil is blown. If it plays fine, then the problem is further inside the beast. Find where the audio comes off the board, out of the amplifier. Check for burned components here. Look for capacitors that are bulging or leaking. If you find any, replace them with capacitors of the same voltage, watt rating, and capacitance values.

>> No.703654

>>703545
don't listen to this faggot just take a screwdriver and shove it under the big cap at the back of the tube to discharge it

what could go wrong

>> No.704192
File: 770 KB, 2048x1536, IMG_20130522_025108.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
704192

The worlds worst roommate left this 150lb. badboy when he got kicked out.

>> No.704254

>>704192
you shall be as gods nigga

>> No.704286

LED fag here, am i good?

>> No.704489

I found a 29" Sony XBR with SCART and a subwoofer on a curb, but it rained for about an hour last night.

Is there any chance or saving it??

>> No.704491

>>704286
Unless you mean a real LED display (eg. one of those huge outdoor wall displays), no.

>> No.704495

>>704491
well it says LED Technology on the upper left corner of my screen

>> No.704496

>>704495
So it's an LCD with an LED backlight, which looks exactly the same as LCD with CCFL backlight only with the extra possibility of annoying PWM flicker.

>> No.704814

>>704489
If you can, bring it in and let it dry out for a week or two.

Assuming it wasn't holding a charge, it might work.