/CRT/ Thread - Gamma-Corrected Edition

[Anonymous No.6078735]

Previous thread: >>6047349
>Try to keep things /vr/ related: Focus should be on 5th Gen (+Dreamcast) games on back. Slight off topic is fine so long as it's related to CRTs, such as later 16:9 models, HD models, etc. Systems with backwards compatibility are also safe territory, as are re-releases on newer hardware. PC CRTs are also welcome and appreciated.
>Produce OC! Bust out your camera and take photos of your CRTs displaying all sorts of games, featuring all sorts of tubes, using all sorts of signals. Getting good shots can be hard, but if you take enough, at least a few will turn out alright. Tips'n'Tricks™ coming soon™.
>Try and give as much information as possible when asking for info on a specific set, or troubleshooting an issue to expedite and help you may receive. As always, Google is your friend and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either; Seriously, there's literally 6 years of backlog at this point.
>Share appreciation for other's choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. Always remember to show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Limited discussion of video processing and scaling devices is alright, but remember to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories.

CRT Pastebin (Never Ever) : http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x (embed)
Guide to CRT Hunting : http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ (embed)
Guide to Video Monitors : http://pastebin.com/pQX4N6gZ (embed)
General Purpose CRT Adjustment Guide : http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/guide_setup_adjust_arcade_monitors_v1.2.0.pdf
S-Video Pasta : http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W (embed)
BKM-10R Protocol Info : http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J (embed)
JVC RGB card cloning guide : https://pastebin.com/EXqMBfcY (embed)

!!NEW!! Thread Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdef7fUnzXCUR1o3LBBgv52MqQdR5hOb60FscYZLOaTq0xDCA/viewform

[Anonymous No.6078804]

Do non-HD trinitrons have any digital processing going on that puts a hole in the instant response time myth?

[Anonymous No.6079013]

>>6078804
Some do but most are instant at least for component / s-vid / RGB. Most of the later ones have some kind of digital comb filter that adds some delay on composite/RF sources, a "3 line" one adds a 2 line delay, a "3D" comb filter can add a whole frame delay.

[Anonymous No.6079071]

>>6079013
Aren't simple comb filters pretty ubiquitous among CRT's of the 90's? I heard it was essential in order to extract high-frequency luma that would otherwise drown out in chroma information. I didn't know they added lag, though, which is kind of disconcerting.
But as long as it can be bypassed with alternative inputs, I guess I shouldn't worry one bit.

[Anonymous No.6079086]

>>6078804
Yes

[Anonymous No.6079113]

Ive been banned from this board for racism for the fourth time now. what kind of woke ass nigger jannys do you guys have here?

[Anonymous No.6079169]

Reminder that SCART cables are a fine option and you should pick whatever cables work best for your individual setup and tastes.

[Anonymous No.6079190]

>>6079169
Reminder that SCART is overpriced trash and your TV can't even use it if you're not in europe

[Anonymous No.6079195]

Reminder that Yuffie best girl.

[Anonymous No.6079208]

What's this about analog signals not having an integer number of lines per field?
Does this mean that the top or bottom line of the image abruptly cuts in half?

[Anonymous No.6079245]

https://youtu.be/nuvd2A1_CUc

[Anonymous No.6079274]

>>6079208
Where the fuck did you see that
If it's in the youtube link in >>6079245
I don't watch youtube cancer.
But you can't cure stupid.

And so the "Yuffie is motion-sick" saga begins

[Anonymous No.6079308]

>>6079274
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/480i
It's described here.
>241.5 visible lines per field
This is concerning.

[Anonymous No.6079317]

>>6079071

Trust me

You're not going to feel anything that isn't psychosomatic

[Anonymous No.6079338]

Does anyone know of any confirmed reports around WEGA geometry being actually fixed, via any method?

I mostly use my FV310 for 3D stuff so it's not ultra noticable but I know now that the service menu ain't gonna do shit for you re: the signature flat CRT wave

[Anonymous No.6079375]

>>6079308
That's visible lines, you dumbass.
Research overscan.

[Anonymous No.6079384]

>>6079375
I'm positive that some consoles output the full overscan area. If you have a non-retarded CRT capable of fullscanning, then this half-line quirk could be a potential issue.

[Anonymous No.6079416]

>>6079274
Did you beat the game yet

[Anonymous No.6079431]

>>6079416
Yeah. Finally.
Replaying because I showed it to a zoomer friend (who liked it and bought it for his switch afterwards) and realized a few things I missed the first time through. It's a stupidly convoluted story (which is both cool and really irritating).

[Anonymous No.6079440]

>>6079431
I’ve wanted to beat it for like 10 years now but some asshole spoiled it for me in school and I got so deflated I never bothered to finish it. At this point I’ve had even more of the plot spoiled for me and I don’t think I’ll ever finish it. Also I’m extremely autistic and get way too attached to characters in a story and I’ll probably get depressed after I finish the game.

[Anonymous No.6079450]

Also either your filter is dumb or your geometry is extra dumb dumb

[Anonymous No.6079456]

>>6079450
Who are you talking to?
If me, that's a crt because I'm not a brainlet. And it's because of the angle of the camera if anything, since it's not a trinimeme it has a semi-spherical tube.
>>6079440
But Yuffie is so great though
Tifa's probably best waifu objectively, but my mind's set on Yuffie
Anyway I feel you on that. I remembered that someone (actual spoiler ->) dies but I actually managed to forget who before playing it. Good thing I suck at names.
It's one of those games like mother 3, where everyone seems to want to spoil it in advance.

[Anonymous No.6079468]

Is it normal for some PC CRT's to suffer from bright black levels? This Dell one I have shows visible scanlines no matter what settings I use.

[Anonymous No.6079471]

>>6078735
So I'll check the pastebins, but I figured i'd also ask here in thread too

I'm interested in trying a bunch of 4th gen, 16 bit games (and some sprite based 5th gen stuff, maybe even 3rd gen NES etc stuff) I never got to play as a kid since my first console was an N64, and I've seen enough images like pic related to know that a lot of these games were designed around the blurring CRT's provide, to an extent

I'd like to try to play them on an actual CRT as a result, but I know nothing about CRT's and nearly nothing about video signals.

What should I be looking for in a CRT that both has good image quality, but ALSO doesn't have such crisp image quality that it doesn't provide the haloing, blur effect I want? I also don't get how resolution works pon CRT's. And how do different video input signals play into this? I don't have OG hardware, so I'd also be needing to use an HDMI or VGA to compenent, S-video, RGB, whatever signal the CRT can read, and I don't know if that will fuck with with what i'm trying to do and reduce or negate the blurring either.

Lastly i've also heard HD CRT's exist and can actually be really good for modern games, but I imagine they'd be mutially exclusive to what I want to do with the above, since they'd be so crisp it wouldn't have the blurring effect? Regardless, info on them, too?

[Anonymous No.6079473]

>>6079468
adjust the screen grid voltage with the pot on the flyback.
Use an insulated (preferably plastic) screwdriver.
>>6079471
So, uh, TL;DR please. What do you want from us? PC monitor recommendations? TV's?

[Anonymous No.6079479]

>>6079471
It would probably benefit the box filter if its gamma-correction were lowered. See how darker the shades are on the CRT.

[Anonymous No.6079482]

>>6079473
I have zero experience with CRT disassembly.
What's a comprehensive guide to get started with so I won't get shocked?

[Anonymous No.6079491]

>>6079468
Is it a Trinitron? Those monitors have circuitry that compensates for worn-out tubes by upping brightness, past a certain point it gets so high you basically get visible retrace lines even at "0" brightness.
tl;dr the thing is on its way out

[Anonymous No.6079493]

>my waifu sells materia and I completely missed it on first playthough
>>6079482
For this procedure:
Do not wear an anti-static strap (that'll make your hand the ground. You do not want to be grounded.)
Wear rubber soled shoes.
Take off back.
Locate transformer.
Tweak dial. if there are two dials, don't touch the one labeled focus.
>>6079491
That could easily be the case. I'd believe it. Still might work to turn down the grid voltage on the flyback.

[Anonymous No.6079497]

>>6079493
The worst part about Trinitron PC monitors is that there's no physical grid voltage adjustment. Rather you need to rig up a serial port connector to go into a service port and use some ancient software that only runs on 32-bit Windows to write settings into the monitor.

[Anonymous No.6079501]

>>6079491
Subtle embedded horizontal lines, so definitely a Trinitron.
So, does this affect even the mighty FW900?

[Anonymous No.6079503]

>>6079501
Yes. All Trinitron PC monitors (and some later TVs IIRC) have this issue. The easy way is to solder a resistor somewhere which reduces the voltage/brightness but this is still only a temporary fix as the circuitry will keep upping the brightness.

[Anonymous No.6079510]

>>6079497
Dang, I don't have anything but a couple PVM's (a 20L5 and a 1944Q) and I've only ever looked in the 1944Q, which was from around 1989 or 1990. It definitely had one but I didn't have to tweak it, it's in better shape than my 20L5 is and I don't really love sony monitors anyway.
>>6079501
That isn't what makes it a trinitron. Unless referring to the dampening wire.
And yes, yes it would, re: FW900.

Have a webm.

[Anonymous No.6079512]

>>6079375
funny how you call him a dumbass but don't know the difference between blanking and overscan...

[Anonymous No.6079518]

>>6079510
what game is that

[Anonymous No.6079524]

>>6079518
FF7
>>6079512
I'm aware of the vertical porch as well as the vertical blanking interval, if that's what you are referring to, dumbass.

[Anonymous No.6079526]

>>6079524
so you know what it is yet directed him to look into the wrong thing entirely which is not at all related. you should stop calling people a dumbass...

[Anonymous No.6079529]

>>6079518
t. zoomer
Come back when you're of age.

[Anonymous No.6079534]

>>6079524
>dumbass

[Anonymous No.6079586]

>>6079526
Looking into it further, it seems like the tendency towards only showing 480 of the 483 lines has masked the half-lines that show up.
I looked into PAL as well, and it unfortunately only seems to amount to 575 visible lines, one less than the technical designation would indicate. I recall seeing these half lines on a DVD way back too.
As if PAL didn't suffer enough.

[Anonymous No.6079591]

>>6079586
keep in mind that you're looking at an interlaced format, not progressive. 1.5 lines per field means 3 lines in a frame. This is even mentioned in the article. read the last half of the technical details section.

[Anonymous No.6079598]

>>6079591
That doesn't really matter, does it?
For all practical purposes, a field is a full frame (especially so on retro consoles with progressive scanning). Even then, the whole number of lines is still split up in two halves.
There's a diagram here that shows the issue.
http://www.batsocks.co.uk/readme/video_timing.htm
All I can say is yikes. Imagine having to deliberately overscan just to avoid seeing signal artifacts.

[Anonymous No.6079620]

The great debate.

[Anonymous No.6079621]

>>6079620
>blocks your path

[Anonymous No.6079704]

>>6079518

[Anonymous No.6079714]

>>6079620
For me? It's slot mask

[Anonymous No.6079786]

I don't really know where else to ask about this, I want to put together a supergun but my understanding is that jamma outputs video in 15kz rgb, and I want to know how I can tell if I have displays which support it (I doubt it) and if not, if there's a simple way to convert it to VGA or component RCA signal. I'm comfortable doing it with a DIY converter, I just don't want to shell out for a converter board when I can make it myself.

[Anonymous No.6079820]

>>6079786
if you can diy shit then just rgb mod the set you plan to use.

[Anonymous No.6079846]

>>6079820
I'm fully willing to do this, I'm just wondering what would be required to convert the signal. I have an old vga crt monitor that I would be willing to just install into a cab permanently.

[Anonymous No.6079848]

>>6079846
To be more clear, I don't know what it would require to convert the 15khz signal to standard rgb.

[Anonymous No.6079852]

>>6079846
if you want to use a vga monitor then you don't need to convert the signal unless it's RGBs. you'd also need a line doubler of course. could look into a gbs-8200 but rgb modding a consumer tv would be much simpler and cost effective. check out this thread.

https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155

[Anonymous No.6079858]

>>6079852
Thank you for the information. I'll check into this thread.

[Anonymous No.6079876]

>>6079786
>>6079848
JAMMA is always RGBS, however :
-boards were made with arcade monitors in mind, which are higher impedence than TVs/SD monitors.
-Signal levels are well above TVs/SD Monitors standards.
What does this mean ? Well, many superguns (jamma to tv adapters) simply use resistors to adapt signals levels, but this puts a strain on board video circuits.
The correct way is to adapt signals through a resistor voltage divider while keeping a fairly high termination to ground (1k seems to be the accepted value), then feeding this to a video encoder. Then using the signals from the encoder, you can do anything you want much safely for the board, like feeding into a TV, an RGB monitor, or a converter, or an upscaler for VGA or HDMI. Also, good superguns do sound isolation through transformers, cause JAMMA sound is made to go directly to a speaker.

On top of my head, proper superguns are PARSEC, Minigun adv, HAS. There may be others of couse.
Note that Minigun is opensource so you can dig into it.

[Anonymous No.6079893]

>>6079876
This is very informative. Part of the equation for why I was asking about this was me noticing that pre-made encoders seem to be relatively expensive for what I assumed was a relatively simple circuit. This lead me to believe that I was missing some important aspect. Isolating the signal safely and converting to multiple formats would account for that increase in complexity I was curious about...

[Anonymous No.6079964]

So I've had my GDM-FW900 and Dell P990, both Trinitron tubes, for a few years now. Both suffer from the G2 shift, resulting in poor black levels and an overly saturated picture. I understand that I can use WinDAS to solve these issues as well as adjusting the white point which is 17+ years out of whack. Only problem I'm having is finding info exactly on where the WinDAS (RS232->TTL) cable plugs in on the D (deflection) board. Does anyone have any images or the pinout for this connector?

[Anonymous No.6079998]

>>6079620
I prefer shadow mask, at higher resolutions aperture grille makes text look fuzzy almost like a LCD at the incorrect resolution. Slot mask is generally used on TVs and I've never used a PC monitor with that.

[Anonymous No.6080112]

>>6079526
>you should stop calling people a dumbass...
Dumbass.

[Anonymous No.6080126]

>>6079620
Tri-dot is lovely, slot mask shows the least pronounced 'scan lines' which is nice in its own way but sacrifices horizontal resolution and is usually on screens made to lower manufacturing tolerances (though that's not an inherent property of slot masks).
AG is alright I guess, but I prefer tri-dot's slight 'fuzziness' while still providing an overall crisp image (that's not a contradiction).
>>6079998
>Slot mask is generally used on TVs and I've never used a PC monitor with that.
If it counts as a 'PC' to you, the Apple IIe composite color monitor uses a slot mask.
Not my pic, it's a 20l5cunt pic

[Anonymous No.6080151]

>>6079998
there were some which used it.

[Anonymous No.6080345]

>>6079964
It's a 4-pin connector covered by a removable plastic door. On monitors with an attached VGA cable it's right under the area where the cable goes into the unit, on ones with ports and no cables it's usually on the side at the bottom.

[Anonymous No.6080390]

>>6080345
some monitors don't have an access door and you need to take off the back shell.

[Anonymous No.6080391]

>>6079964
How easy is WinDAS to use nowadays? I tried it about a decade ago and the shit was in some no man's land nightmare of OS compatibility. I imagine now with VMs it would be a lot easier.

[Anonymous No.6080453]

>>6080126
>>6079998
Slot masks seem like the worst of both worlds
>Not contiguous along one axis
>Not naturally curvy and radially symmetric
Just remove all the horizontally long gaps, and you have yourself an aperture grille.

[Anonymous No.6080471]

>>6080453
slot masks are originally TV only, it allows more illumination.
PC slot masks came very late and are kinda rare, first was NEC cromaclear, then came LG Flatron.

[Anonymous No.6080472]

>>6080471

[Anonymous No.6080478]

>>6080453
not all slot masks are flat, not sure where you got that idea. also having it not bed a grid at all helps a lot for moire. a tight pitch slot mask is actually very nice. they're quite sharp and vibrant. they're more like an attempt to get the best of both worlds though. picrel is the monitor in the ad that guy posted above me.

[Anonymous No.6080482]

>>6080472

[Anonymous No.6080486]

I had two of them at one point but they're in the hands of two separate collectors now. Best part about them was that they had a vertical limit of 200hz which it could do at 480p.

[Anonymous No.6080489]

>>6080482
Is that bunny supposed to be an allegory for sharp vision?

[Anonymous No.6080492]

>>6079620
aperture grille = brighter
shadow mask = sharper
slot mask = neither

[Anonymous No.6080493]

>>6080489
I really have no idea. Can't read French at all so I'm not sure how the rabbit plays into it.

[Anonymous No.6080509]

>>6080492
the fresher of these two monitors put out something like 130cdm/2 max contrast at 100 IRE and both were very sharp, even compared to my 21" shadow mask or 21" aperture grilles.

[Anonymous No.6080520]

>>6080489
>>6080493
text is :
no eye strain
if you still have redeyes, it means you have mixomatosis

[Anonymous No.6080527]

>>6080520
well now it's even weirder than before I knew what it said. that's a disease for rabbits apparently, makes their eyes swollen and red to the point that they swell shut. what does the bottom part say if you don't mind?

[Anonymous No.6080547]

>>6080527
>>6080520

French people, man.

[Anonymous No.6080570]

>>6080345
>>6080390
I seem to have found the door on the back of the FW900 but it's 4 pins of course and I'm unsure which pins are which. I'll try to do more digging on this but I've really not come up with much so far. Kind of surprising.

[Anonymous No.6080571]

>>6080570
you only need the two data lines which will be together on one side. they should be labelled as well.

[Anonymous No.6080579]

>>6080571
I can see the pins but due to the angle of the hatch I can't see how the board is labelled. I'm sure I can work it out from a schematic as there are capacitors on one side and not on the other. Thanks anon.

On another note, anyone know if trinitron monitors have effective sharpness adjustment? I feel like both my tubes are also a little soft, especially at the corners.

[Anonymous No.6080581]

>>6080570
Are you just connecting wires directly to a serial port, or do you use some kind of adapter?
Just wondering if i need to buy anything.

[Anonymous No.6080594]

>>6080581
You need a WinDAS cable. This is a USB-RS232 cable with TTL adapters (like you'd find on motherboard IO pins). It'll have 4 pins, I'm just unsure which TTL plugs go onto which cables. If the anon above is right it's only the two data lines, which seem to be RXD and TXD on the ECS connector as indicated by the service manual.

[Anonymous No.6080604]

>>6080594
oh btw, rxd and txd need to be swapped if memory serves me correctly. don't ask, it just is what it is.

[Anonymous No.6080613]

>>6080604
That's because it makes sense, the transmit line on the computer goes to the receive line on the monitor and vice versa. You're building a crossover cable.

[Anonymous No.6080623]

>>6080527
it's just generic stuff like :
a whole range that complies with latest norms

[Anonymous No.6080627]

>>6080613
>>6080604
If it's only the data lines that matter then there are only 4 possible configurations for the two wires into the 4 pins, so I could work it out by trial and error if I can't find any way to read the label on the board. Thanks my dudes, very helpful.

[Anonymous No.6080628]

>>6080613
oh, I guess that does make sense. good explanation.

[Anonymous No.6080639]

>>6080594
Thanks to Arduino, such an adapter appears to be rather cheap. I should buy one of those things anyway.

[Anonymous No.6080736]

>>6078735
Sorry to barge in a thread, but do you know for sure that you are going to Heaven if you were to die today anon?

[Anonymous No.6080813]

Picked up my first arcade monitor and going to pop it in a cabinet. Pic related, WG 27D9204
Pots won't be accessible in cabinet, so thought calibrating before popping it in would be smart.
Never worked with a CRT before, and read that you shouldn't necessarily discharge them to move them. Would it be better to test it on a table, leave it overnight and move the next day? I've read that they have bleed resistors and don't require an isolation transformer, and some handling from the back may be necessary (hence why I'm paranoid about shock)

[Anonymous No.6081031]

>>6080527
Paraphrasing because I haven't had to read anything in french for three years and I was never fluent anyway:
A complete range of FLATRON™ monitors in 17" and 19", multi-standard (read: multiscan), multi-medium (guessing that means good for multimedia PC's), ergonomic, made with the latest in ultra slim FLATRON™tube technologies, and compliant with strict standards for economical energy usage and low electromagnetic radiation (émissions électromagnétiques) (TCO99).
TCO99 looks to be: https://tcocertified.com/the-story-of-tco-certified/

If anyone's a native french speaker, how badly did I butcher that?

[Anonymous No.6081136]

[Anonymous No.6081148]

[Anonymous No.6081669]

Here's a Mitsubishi Diamondtron VGA CRT monitor, currently use a BNC/RGBHV-VGA cable to connect my X201 laptop (since the only one that has a built-in VGA port).
So is there something I missed? Why all graphic/text pixels got waved-look?

[Anonymous No.6081681]

>>6081669
95% your cable is shit in the shielding department.

Try another.

[Anonymous No.6081682]

>>6079071
Yep they were pretty common, but since it's only 1 or 2 lines lag in analogue form it's generally not even enough to break light guns

[Anonymous No.6081683]

>>6081669
laptops generally have shitty analog output. could also be the cable like the other guy suggested. also are you using an emulator to run 240P test suite? you need to stop...

http://tmp.przemoc.net/monitor/nec_test.exe

[Anonymous No.6081709]

>>6079208
For interlacing to work the position of vsync relative to the last hsync alternates between fields, either happening at the same time as hsync or halfway between hsyncs, so lines per field is always something.5, 262.5 for NTSC. Where the vsync happens isn't necessarily related to where the active video lines start/stop, but canonically yes for the first field the first line does start in the middle, and for the second field the final active line ends in the middle. Digital stuff often ignores that though and just cuts off what would be canonically half lines.

For progressive vsync is always in the same place so always a whole number, for 240p stuff 262 is usually picked giving a slightly faster than standard vertical refresh, some stuff does 263 giving slightly slower.

[Anonymous No.6081712]

>>6081709
pic related

[Anonymous No.6081769]

What's the best CRT for 480i?

[Anonymous No.6081774]

>>6081769
bvm-d32, failing that an nec xm37 plus.

[Anonymous No.6081879]

>>6081774
>recommending a high-tvl, widescreen set for 4:3 interlaced content.

Are you shilling anti-seizure medication by any chance?

[Anonymous No.6081886]

>>6081879
>he doesn't appreciate the flicker of 480i on a high tvl display
nah, just answering a dumb question with a dumb answer.

[Anonymous No.6081894]

>>6081886
How was it a dumb question?

The best displays for 240p are constantly discussed but hardly anyone considers 480i, which IMO is quite tricky to get right.

[Anonymous No.6081898]

>>6081894
because there's no objective best, just like with 240p. you might like a high tvl display that's a bit flickery but has a sharp image or you might like it a bit softer with less flicker. there's no best display for anything in general. not pc games, not 240p, not 480i, not any of that shit. it's all subjective and down to your preferences.

[Anonymous No.6081930]

>>6081898
That is true but you can certainly quantify which are least suitable and a BVM-D32 would be near the top of the list.

[Anonymous No.6081939]

>>6081894
I strongly prefer my 480i S-Video Commodore 1702 to my scart or component or BNC PVMs. It’s a nicer slightly softer picture and I think more accurately portrays what I want to see in a display. I’ll admit it isn’t PIXEL ACCURATE. But I personally prefer it. Just like I have lots of original consoles but I personally prefer to emulate. There’s nothing wrong with however someone chooses to play and a lot of the time it’s hard to ever be objective about something like that. There’s pros/cons to it.

[Anonymous No.6081974]

>>6081930
almost anything is suitable for 480i outside of some smaller portable sets which will have trouble with finer detail in some 480i games.

[Anonymous No.6082009]

>>6081974
The main concern with effective viewing of interlaced content is to have the fields homogenise and present the appearance of higher resolution. This requires high-persistence phosphors (generally P22) and a low to moderate TVL spec - resulting in a broader electron beam spot at the grille/screen.

Production monitors are designed to do the polar opposite - separate the lines and fields with low-persistence phosphors and tight beam focus. For signal troubleshooting or monitoring purposes? great. For content consumption? Pretty sub-optimal.

[Anonymous No.6082027]

>>6082009
Oh and as an aside I theorise that this is precisely the reason 480i is shat upon so liberally these days. People are viewing it on displays which are literally and purposely designed to make it look as bad as possible from a consumption standpoint.

[Anonymous No.6082172]

>>6079440
play it anyway. FF7 story doesn't really have any jaw dropping reveals. Most of the stuff that seemed innovative when it was released seems cliche nowadays because other games were inspired by it. FF7 is worth playing just for the atmosphere of the world and the soundtrack. The background art is amazing

[Anonymous No.6082178]

>>6079620
Shadow mask>Slot Mask>LCD>Aperature grille

[Anonymous No.6082192]

>>6082178
This. I used to think AG tubes were the cream of the crop but after having multiple Sony Trinitron monitors crap out on me I'm done. Consumer-grade SM tube TVs with component inputs are where it's at.

[Anonymous No.6082201]

>>6081939
Commodore monitors look fantastic. 1084s is great since it supports analog and digital RGB

[Anonymous No.6082209]

>>6082192
don't fall for the snoy meme

[Anonymous No.6082230]

>>6082209
It's funny because the TV my parents had when I was born was a Trinitron, they got it in 1991 it lasted all the way to 2005 and the picture got so bright you could see the retrace lines and I remember my dad taking it to a TV repair shop and the guy just told him to junk it. We ended up keeping it until black friday to buy a Panasonic.

[Anaxa No.6082264]

Too late, I’m already here

[Anonymous No.6082298]

What desk do you use to hold your heavy ass monitors? I have two 17” monitors and then my lcd one as well. I’ve looked at standing desks but I don’t know if they’re sturdy enough, I really don’t want much wobble

[Anonymous No.6082301]

>>6082230
I'd take a new in box chink shit brand CRT over some sony TV with 10k hours on it. These TVs are so old that caring about brand and models is retarded and you should just judge each individual set by how it's holding up to time

[Anonymous No.6082308]

>>6082298
Some of the older IKEA corner desks are ideal. They used to use some weird plywood-type material that was super dense and rigid, and the metal frames the legs attach to are more than strong enough. I have a riser shelf made of the same material and it holds any monitor without wobble.

[Anonymous No.6082315]

>>6082301
Yes, just like how you're better off driving a new car rather than a "luxury" vehicle from the 80s. Too bad redditors somehow think even a low-end TV with the SNOY logo on it is worth hundreds.

[Anonymous No.6082319]

>>6082027
>>6082009
Isn't this why anti-flicker filters are used? I recall seeing a vertical blur in a lot of PS2 to mitigate interlacing artifacts.
Even a blurry-ass CRT I have flickers visibly around sharp text on news channels. This leads me to believe that you actually want to separate the lines so that intermediate fields don't overlap and fill details up with incorrect information.

[Anonymous No.6082329]

>>6082319
I think using modern broadcast TV as a test is fallacious. They're aimed squarely at HDTV and any downscaling would introduce artefacts, skewing the results.

As for PS2, no in-console trickery can affect the electron beam size. In fact I was just a moment ago playing SNK Arcade Classics on my PVM-2950QM which is a 560tvl display and the picture at 480i was rock solid with little to no discernable flickering. That PVM, despite its designation, is much closer to a super high grade consumer set than a broadcast or production monitor.

[Anonymous No.6082397]

>>6082329
Fallacious? It's the entire point, since HD channels wouldn't use special anti-flicker filters for CRT's.
SD content seldom flickers exactly because it's pre-processed with vertical blur.

[Anonymous No.6082408]

>>6082329
Downscaling 1080i into my TV through RGB SCART from the tuner box actually results in a really smooth picture with no artifacts. Not that other anon but I did this for years.

[Anonymous No.6082431]

>>6082397
It's also why SD broadcast TV looks like shit on a HDTV. It's already pre-blurred and HDTVs make that extremely noticeable.

[Anonymous No.6082438]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LWlluqqu-E
LCD TVs won't survive a single blow

[Anonymous No.6082459]

>>6081939

They were / are great monitors.
I had a 1085S, if I remember correctly. Really good picture. The better "super-monitors" may be a bit to "aggressive" to capture the look of old Commodore goodness.

[Anonymous No.6082548]

>dad says he can go pick up the CRT i want tomorrow
>instead goes get it today even tho its raining
>comes home angry scremaing that i help him
>screen is wet
>has scratches that weren't in the ad
>it has black bars when i turn it on after letting it dry for like an hour
t-t-thanks dad
not even gonna take a picture of how fucked it is, but heres the pic from the ad

[Anonymous No.6082579]

>>6082548
Craigslist? You best get a refund, assuming they guy's honest. Online shopping is one thing, but if it's an in-person deal always go there yourself or if you must have someone else do it let them know what you're expecting.

[Anonymous No.6082593]

>>6081774
480i flicker is more pronounced on the D24/D32. I’m not even particularly sensitive to it myself but I think 480i looks stunning on a 20F1U. Why, I’m not sure, but it does make sense since the 20F1U was made for purely 480i analog which was the standard video format of the time.

[Anonymous No.6082690]

>>6082579
im iberian, but yea we used the craiglist equivalent here
next time ill keep the info to myself instead of commenting anything, and go get it myself, ur right

[Anonymous No.6082730]

>>6082690
You’ll get another opportunity to get a monitor, and it might even be better than that one

[Anonymous No.6082957]

>>6079473
Sorry anon, I forgot about the thread

>So, uh, TL;DR please. What do you want from us? PC monitor recommendations? TV's?

I'm wanting to play older sprite based games on a CRT that will be best for achieving the sort of pixel-blur effect that many of those games were designed for, as seen in the image I posted in >>6079471

I don't know anything about CRTs to know what to look in terms of specs which would lend itself to that, nor do I know how different video input signals (I don't have OG consoles, so i'd need to use an HDMI to a compenent, S video, RGB, etc converter; or use VGA) impact that visual effect or not, etc.

I'm just wanting info so I know what I should be looking for both in terms of CRT's and conversion cables, if conversion cables can even achieve that effect; and/or if any HD CRT's still have it and would also be good for modern games, since I've seen digital foundries videos on them

>>6079479
Not understanding what you are trying to say

[Anonymous No.6083013]

>>6082957
The box/nearest-neighbour rendition of the image is far too bright, so it fails to blend smoothly with the background.
I tried to correct it, but I seem to have overdone it a bit.

[Anonymous No.6083830]

>>6082431
>It's also why SD broadcast TV looks like shit on a HDTV. It's already pre-blurred and HDTVs make that extremely noticeable.
Not true in the slightest. Any perceived fault in that case is on the part of the display, not the content.

[Anonymous No.6083839]

>>6083830
That's my point. The content is adapted for a certain display type and viewing it with the wrong display results in bad image quality. In that same vein downconverting 1080p to watch it on a 480i CRT also makes the picture look like shit.

[Anonymous No.6083997]

>>6083839
>downconverting 1080p to watch it on a 480i CRT also makes the picture look like shit.
Not necessarily true. Everything is downsampled in one way or another. You just have to use the right filter while doing so.
You can use the nyquist sampling theorem and a spectrogram transform to predict the quality of 1080p > 480i conversion.

[Anonymous No.6084137]

>>6083839
You said it was "pre-blurred"

It is not.

[Anonymous No.6084186]

>>6084137
Not him, but it is if you want the best out of interlaced content.
Actually, some 1080i channels don't blur, so they exhibit flickering even on LCD's.

[Anonymous No.6084507]

Any tips for retrogaming on a computer CRT? How do i get em scanlines? My monitor is pretty big

[Anonymous No.6084543]

Why does the PS2 version of Metal Slug 5 (unpatched) flicker noticeably more than the xbox version?

[Anonymous No.6084901]

Some anon suggested Open Camera as a replacement camera app, and I gotta say, it definitely helps take better screenshots.

[Anonymous No.6084903]

>>6084901
My shitty phone camera still has trouble with bright screens

[Anonymous No.6084935]

>>6084507
Emulate and run at a custom 240p resolution. You will get the fattest, sharpest fucking scanlines ever

[Anonymous No.6084962]

>>6084543
Not retro.

[Anonymous No.6085010]

Requesting some direct shadow mask/aperture grille comparisons.

[Anonymous No.6085024]

>>6078735
How can I make CRTs last longer? A technician told me I should turn them on often, like every other day if possible, is that true?

[no No.6085027]

>>6078804
A whole ton do. Smash autistics made lists of plenty of sets that have variable delay or set 8/16/32ms that are from all variants.

[no No.6085028]

>>6078735
**SSSSSSSIPPP**
>Ah, those crisp blacks of my CRT really make my monster cold!

[Anonymous No.6085039]

>>6085028
*Turns off the light*
>Yep, told you so

[no No.6085054]

>>6085039
>Has to play in complete darkness to not be blown out by $50 walmart monitor.

[no No.6085057]

>>6078735
Turn the fucking lights on you faggot.

[Anonymous No.6085237]

Just plugged in my first arcade CRT, really lost with calibration but fired up NEC test pattern generator. Screen flashed and made a click when changing to a pattern, shat pants and unplugged. Should I be at all worried? I'm unreasonably terrified of electricity.

[Anonymous No.6085251]

>>6085054
>And that's just $50. Now just imagine what a brand new high-end LCD can do!

[Anonymous No.6085473]

>>6085237
that was prob just the sound of the CRT changing resolutions when you switched the test pattern

[Anonymous No.6085947]

>>6079471
>>6083013
I’d recommend a shadow mask crt Based on what you’ve described. There was a good old crt display discussion on Shmups found here: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=43256&hilit=20l5&start=30

[Anonymous No.6086020]

>>6081669
>x201
Hey, i daily drive an X201 tablet. They're still nice. And with the dock, they have displayport, too.
If it's plugged in and charging, try unplugging it or plugging it in to a different outlet. Or if you also have the dock, try a displayport to VGA adapter and see if anything changes.
>>6081683
>laptops generally have shitty analog output.
As someone else with an X201, they aren't bad at all in that department (as far as laptops go… BTW, I have both a normal X201 and the tablet version, both are very similar). I don't think the laptop is the problem, though I'm also not 100% sure what it actually is.
>>6081769
Whatever you can afford and like. A lot of people swear BVM's and stuff. I like tri-dot tubes but nice trinis aren't bad for a certain look.
>>6082172
>FF7 story doesn't really have any jaw dropping reveals.
I mean, the photo in nibelheim fucked with my brain a lot.
But my entire first play was just a big "OK, what the fuck is ACTUALLY going on here" for the longest time. Thoroughly enjoyed it anyway. And it's holding up to a replay pretty well.
>>6082201
>Commodore 1084s
I'd like one of those. I have a 1942 which is nice in that it's a tri-dot tube and supports 480i and 480p both, but it doesn't have composite or Y/C (s-video style but through RCA jacks) inputs like the 108* monitors did. I really need to look for a device that will convert those to RGB without doing scaling or anything else fancy so I can play Famicom/NES on it.
I also need to finally build a sync stripper so I can feed it the H/V sync it expects (it doesn't handle CSync).
My Amiga 500 looks fantastic on it, though. Wish I had a 1200/4000 so I could use the 480p mode though.
>>6082230
Panasonic/Matsushita master race reporting in again.
>>6082548
RIP.
You should have let it dry for longer though. Not that it necessarily matters.
What kind of black bars? just letterboxing sort of stuff?
>>6082957
>I want blur
OK, then you just want some shitty ol' TV.

[Anonymous No.6086032]

>>6086020
If the 1942 is like the 1084 then it will handle Csync over the horizontal sync pin

[Anonymous No.6086036]

>>6082548
rip. Still worth trying again in a few days when its completely dry.

[Anonymous No.6086040]

>>6084901
That was likely me.
Note that you can also adjust the color temperature manually. Your white balance is far too warm in that pic. I usually set mine to between 5500°K and 6500°K (mostly 6500°). Some TV's use a white point of 9300°, but the standard is 6500°.
I use Open Camera for everything unless I need to use the flash, because it doesn't support that of all things. But for CRT pics, RAW's, and such? Always.
>>6084903
Pixel 2 XL here. Your pic looks just fine to me, but I know what you're talking about. I think the "response curve" of the sensor in my phone doesn't quite match what I'd like for scenes with a lot of contrast on my tube.
Empires rise and fall, but yuffie is still best girl.

[Anonymous No.6086045]

>>6085024
that might help make capacitors last longer, but it's a little excessive to do it every day.
Play with the contrast down really low.
>>6086032
It's not, though, and I checked that. That's why I said it doesn't handle csync. because it actually doesn't handle csync.
>>6085028
>>6085057
I bet you hate movie theaters because you're scared of the dark.

[Anonymous No.6086049]

>>6086040
>Your white balance is far too warm in that pic
No, I actually changed the in-game text color to be yellow-goldish because I think it looks better. You can see actual white on the highlights on the magitek armor and Kefka's eyes.
>Your pic looks just fine to me
Yeah, that pic was. I meant to finish my sentence by saying darker stuff comes out better, hence the forest scene looking fine, but I derped. Pic related was a tough one to get, I had to make sure the camera was focusing on the dark stuff in the background, and it still isn't great.

[Anonymous No.6086054]

>>6086045
Looks good for other kinds of content though.
>>6086049
Ah, ok. I don't agree with your decision to change the text color, but I retract my statement.
>>6086049
Manual focus and manual exposure settings can help with that. Especially manual exposure settings.

[Anonymous No.6086073]

>>6085473
Thanks anon. Figured it was probably nothing but I have beyond unreasonable electricity paranoia. Google had lots of "oh things are probably arcing, it's going to catch fire soon"
Will hopefully cabinet mount today/tomorrow, will feel way more comfortable once it's enclosed
Bit young so CRTs were being phased out as I grew up and it's been a long time since I've owned one

[Anonymous No.6086078]

>>6086054
>I don't agree with your decision to change the text color
I know, I am completely shitting on the creators' original vision. I think it looks great in person and is easier on the eyes than the white, but it's hard to read in some scenes without text boxes, and sometimes my camera fucks it up and makes it look partially white like in pic related, but this was before I had Open Camera.

Thanks for the exposure tips, though. I've played with them to really improve some shots, but my phone is a 7-year-old Samsung and the camera is pretty shit.

[Anonymous No.6086085]

>>6086073
Your CRT isn't going to explode unless you smash it with a hammer. They're not that dangerous. I've never heard of one spontaneously exploding due to some kind of hardware failure

[Anonymous No.6086101]

>>6086045
The manual for my 1084 didn't mention that it handled csync and I just found out through other people online. I thought it might be the same for your model. I didn't know if you had tested it or just looked at the specs. Maybe you can just use it hooked up to a pc for emulation instead. I haven't seen a transcoder for RGBS to RGBHV before

[Anonymous No.6086103]

>>6086101
Or I can just do what I said I'd do and make a sync splitter.

Emulation's dumb when I have working original hardware.

[Anonymous No.6086109]

>>6086103
that makes a lot more sense. I didn't know you could separate csync back into h/v. Really cool monitor, I never knew they made multi sync commodores.

[Anonymous No.6086114]

>>6086101
Related. Drew this up myself so pardon the ugliness.

[Anonymous No.6086118]

>>6086109
It's not true multiscan, although there are a couple true multiscan commodore monitors. It will only do ~15.6khz and ~31khz. Nothing in between or above/below (so no 24khz).
I still like it though, and since something like a 20L5 can't sync to 24khz either I'm not that let down. Not many monitors do.

[Anonymous No.6086150]

>>6086118
You seem pretty knowledgeable about CRTs, I have a question about my 1084. It started to shut off on me just recently while using it and won't turn back on. It seems like giving it time to rest or a light tap on the side will make it power back on. But if I tap it on the side there's a static sounding noise (could be arcing?) before it powers back up. I've noticed a slight burning smell as well so I've decided to quit using it until I figure out what's wrong. I looked up the common problems with the monitor and I'm fairly sure it's not the flyback because there's no high pitch noise or visible interference on the screen when it's working. Sometimes it would work for hours before shutting off and other times only for a few minutes. I opened it up and couldn't see anything obviously wrong but I'm inexperienced with repairing electronics. Do you have any idea what the problem might be from my shitty description?

[Anonymous No.6086152]

>>6086150
One more thing to add. It's definitely not the power switch. The LED indicator still turns on.

[Anonymous No.6086170]

>>6086085
I know they're nowhere near as dangerous as made out and don't bite unless you do something stupid, but as I said ridiculous electricity paranoia. Our power plugs have an on/off switch (Aus) and until I was nearly 20 I couldn't change plugs without switching this off because one or two had sparked through my life and I was convinced it would kill me (my last CRT did this, but not sure if it was the house)
Also until fairly recently unplugged all electronics at night, got over that when I started self-hosting

[Anonymous No.6086189]

>>6085947
Thanks anon, I'll look into it. I should be trying to find one for local pickup rather then to ship, since the compenents inside CRT's are fragile, right?

Also, for you and >>6086020: Can you guys comment on if using an HDMI to a Compenent/RGB/etc cable and then using that to input into the CRT will still result in the effect I want (I'm not sure "Blur" is the right word, maybe color/light bleed? Combined with scanlines?), or will the fact an HDMI signal is being used as the source make it less apparent?

[Anonymous No.6086198]

>>6084901
The key to taking good CRT shots is to have your shutter speed set to something slower than the video refresh rate. For a 60Hz TV that means 1/50 or slower so you capture an entire frame rather than part of one.

[Anonymous No.6086214]

>>6086189
How do you think TVs got to stores in the 80s and 90s? A well-packed CRT is fine in the hands of a shipping carrier. Usually foam padding on all sides is enough.

[Anonymous No.6086242]

>>6086214
I suppose, but I don't trust some random person to pack their shit well.

Also I have to imagine shipping CRT's is expensive as fuck given how big and heavy they can be

[Anonymous No.6086249]

>>6086242
Got a 29" sent interstate overnight for about 60 burger dollars. It's certainly not cheap (part of why LCDs took over) but its also not entirely unrealistic. Shipping weight was around 90KG

[Anonymous No.6086318]

>>6086198
Yeah I can't adjust my shutter speed. I find I get the best results if I get up close and angle the camera so I'm not shooting from head on.

[Anonymous No.6086337]

Did I do a retard move in buying a 6" PVM?

[Anonymous No.6086340]

>>6086337
ye. you fell for the meme. I wouldn't even want a 6" pvm for free

[Anonymous No.6086341]

>>6086337
Depends how much you paid.

[Anonymous No.6086343]

>>6086340
I thought a PVM is a PVM?
>>6086341
~150 USD with shipping

[Anonymous No.6086350]

>>6086318
Certain images don't throw my shitty phone's camera into a fit quite so much.

>>6086343
Unless you're really new here, you gotta be baiting. You got hosed, anon. At 6", there is almost no benefit to buying a PVM. You'd have been better off getting a 20"+ with s-video or component. A fool and his money...

[Anonymous No.6086351]

>>6086343
You got ripped off... a 6” pvm is worth 20 dollars at most if only for the novelty factor. Also did Sony even make 6” pvms?

[Anonymous No.6086362]

>>6086350
What's the minimum tolerable PVM size?

[Anonymous No.6086372]

>>6086362
I mean, "tolerable" is subjective, but I'd say 14" is the smallest size where you're really seeing any benefit from using RGB. Which I assume is what you got a PVM for, but given how clueless you seem, I can't even be sure of that. Most smaller professional monitors don't even have RGB input because it won't matter at that size.

I'd like to be nice to you, but honestly, fuck off. Idiots like you that pull the trigger on exhorbitantly-priced ebay shit without knowing what the fuck you're doing are the reason prices keep getting worse.

[Anonymous No.6086389]

>>6086362
Depends how close you’re sitting. If your pushed right up to it like on a computer desk, 14” is “fine” but that isn’t a very good way to play retro games, imo. Best way is in a living room environment, sat 3-6 feet away on a couch. In which case anything under 30” is a little small, imo.

Of course if you enjoy playing your games at a desk all the power to you.

[Anonymous No.6086392]

>>6086351
Yes, they did. For on-location shoots even a babby 6" monitor is larger than the flip-out LCD on a camera.

[Anonymous No.6086404]

WTF man this geometry is all over the place
using PC engine for test

[Anonymous No.6086427]

>>6086362
Get a consumer set.

[Anonymous No.6086431]

>>6086362
14" if on a desk. 20" if you sit 3 feet away on a bean bag chair. I'm not being facetious here, I modded a 32" Sharp consumer set and I literally haven't touched my 20" PVM with perfect geometry in a year. I honestly need to sell it to some bandwaggoner and spend the money on something I'd actually use.

Getting RGB or seperated color signals (like the component ones) is way more important than the magic pvm bullet to be completely honest. Of course you have to learn to solder and not be a puss about working on/in a crt. I've had this TV since I was in college in the early 2000s and it literally took $12 worth of components, counting the $5 shipping.

[Anonymous No.6086447]

>>6079471
>>6083013
>>6086189
I missed the part where you said you don’t have consoles. If not, do you plan to downconvert to 240p? Are there any clone consoles like retron that output 240p? IMHO for home console 8 and 16 bit era, 240p consumer set would offer the most authentic image - crisp enough but still has crt image artifacts/not too sharp. 240p may be impractical for your set up though. In that case I’d consider a shadow mask 20” or smaller. Smaller screen means you’ll sit closer and even at 480i you’ll see some crt artifacts making the image feel more authentic for 16 bit.

This shmups thread has some good 240p consumer grade shadow mask images, if interested.

https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63197&start=0

[Anonymous No.6086643]

>>6086447
>f not, do you plan to downconvert to 240p?

To be honest, I never really thought about it, I figured i'd just run the games in an emulator at their native resolution and didn't really think about the fact past that. OI guess I figured I'd just set my output resolution to that resolution as well and it'd just work.

Would emulating the game at a higher resolution with no interpolation in multiples of 2 result in a different quality image when displayed on a CRT compared to the native resolution?

To be honest I don't even get how resolution works on CRT's, I've heard unlike LCD's which have a set resolution, CRT's don't function like that, so I guess explaining that to me would help.

Actually now that i'm thinking about it, do SNES, Gensiss, etc games even have a relativerly consistent resolution?

[Anonymous No.6086823]

>>6086150
>You seem pretty knowledgeable about CRTs
Thanks
>It started to shut off on me just recently while using it and won't turn back on.
Three things I'd immediately check:
1) make sure the solder that holds the flyback transformer on the PCB hasn't cracked. If it has, try to suck it off and add new (preferably leaded) solder after applying some flux. If not an option, you could just reflow the existing solder, but I like to just replace the solder. This is my primary guess.
2) If there's a relay internally, it could be seizing. This feels less likely because you said it was dying during use.
3) capacitors. Capacitors can malfunction in all sorts of ways, the monitor is old, and it was made for Commodore, a company known for cutting costs whenever possible. I've even had things power on and run perfectly but for the smoke escaping from the case from leaked caps. Definitely recap it if you can (especially the big caps, like rectification capacitors in the power supply [warning - unless you are very, very sure you are OK with servicing it yourself, might want to get a professional to recap the high voltage bits), even if something else is found to be to blame in this case. It's definitely old enough to be ready for it… and it won't be getting any younger.
4) (a worst case scenario) Some impurities in the tube have accumulated and are causing an arc in the tube.

There are an infinite number of other things that could be between 3 and 4 in terms of severity (and likelihood).

It may be a good idea to take the case off the monitor, put it on a sheet of cardboard, and wait for it to happen again. when it does, dim the lights in the room (to better see any sparks) and shake the monitor a bit by sliding the cardboard. Poking it with a plastic broom handle might also work but I can understand why people are nervous to go there.

Definitely try running it while opened up, especially if you intend to try to diagnose it without recapping first.

[Anonymous No.6086825]

>>6086198
On CMOS sensors (most new cameras/phone cameras), I often find 1/60 to be ideal due to the rolling shutter effect they have.
On CCD's or film, you'd want something slower; I like 1/15 on my Nikon D40.

[Anonymous No.6086827]

>>6086318
>Yeah I can't adjust my shutter speed.
Did you try turning on "Use Camera2 API" in photo settings?

[Anonymous No.6086829]

>>6086404
Just a bit of tilt

[Anonymous No.6086835]

>>6086343
>$150 for a 6"
That's the most I'd pay for a 20".
Agreed with the anon who said $20 max for one of those. Maybe $30 if you really wanted one now.
>>6086389
I like playing games at my desk which is why I use a 14" monitor. 6" is like a PSOne LCD, roughly.
>>6086404
That looks pretty nice to me. Maybe just a little rotated.
>>6086431
14" looks fine from a distance (6-10 feet) to me but that's because my eyes are still good and I have a small-ish living space. I fully expect that I may have to switch to my 20" monitor at some point in the future.

[Anonymous No.6086845]

>>6086643
>I've heard unlike LCD's which have a set resolution, CRT's don't function like that, so I guess explaining that to me would help.
Take a magnifying glass up to a LCD TV and you'll see the RGB pixel arrangements. LCDs are purely digital, which means each pixel on the screen should ideally correspond with a single pixel in the console or PC display memory. For example a 1920x1080 LCD looks best with video at the same resolution because this 1:1 mapping is maintained. For any other resolution it must be stretched to fit the screen and unless you limit it to an integer factor (such as 960x540) you'll get pixels of different sizes since they don't divide evenly. On a CRT do the same thing and you'll see either fine vertical lines or triangular RGB slots. The display in a CRT is analog, so there's no scaling or anything, the electron beam simply draws the image without adding anything to it. Obviously if the resolution is low enough you can make out the individual scanlines, and below a certain resolution they become so noticeable it's like you're looking through a grate. At higher resolutions up to the maximum the circuitry can process it's a matter of light blending at the nanometer scale, and this is why CRTs are preferred in any situation where you have to deal with multiple resolutions.

tl;dr LCD scaling is ass

[Anonymous No.6086853]

>>6078735
https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/zip/d/boulder-city-dinosaur-tv-console/7042546839.html

Kind of cool, definitely don't have room for it myself though

[Anonymous No.6086861]

>>6086643
On a CRT, everything is just "draw a line, setting the intensity of light with differing voltage. After [a set length of time], move down and start drawing another line. After so many of those time lengths have passed, move back up to the top of the screen and repeat."
Those voltage levels are not discrete 1's and 0's, but have infinite degrees of variation possible within a range. to draw a "pixel," one would just set the primary color voltages steady for a short time. When the electron beam is positioned correctly to start next pixel, change the voltages for it. But that's computers imposing start and end points; the TV itself has no notion of the length of time that a "pixel" should take.

[Anonymous No.6086870]

>>6086861
TL;DR: CRT's have a defined vertical resolution per scan (number of lines that can be drawn in a period of time), but not so for horizontal resolution which (on a monochrome screen) would be limited only by the size of an individual phosphor molecule and the size of the cathode ray hitting it.

[Anonymous No.6086875]

>>6086870
On a color screen, it's worth noting that the effective horizontal resolution is determined (roughly) by the number of discrete R/G/B phosphor triads on a given line across the screen. This is why dot pitch can be important. Higher dot pitch means more tightly packed (and typically smaller) triads, for a higher possible resolution at the cost of lower luminance (less total surface area lighting up). But this does not map 1:1 with "pixels" typically, since the device drawing a picture cannot time its drawing so that the electron beams are pointing at the start of a triad, nor can it know how large a triad is.

[Anonymous No.6086905]

>>6086875
B&W is peak tv tech.

[Anonymous No.6086909]

>>6086905
Yep. It really is.

[Anonymous No.6086952]

>>6086372
You aren't responding to the same guy, retard. I'm asking because I don't have any PVM myself.
>>6086389
>>6086431
I'm a desk user, so it sounds like 14 is adequate.
Still, even my PC CRT is larger than that, and it feels like the bare minimum of what is acceptable, though that is with desktop use in mind.

[Anonymous No.6086957]

>>6086952
if your PC CRT is widescreen, then remember that a 24" 16:10 monitor is about the same height as a 14" 4:3 (visually; i've not done the math recently).

[Anonymous No.6087237]

>>6086909
What monitor is picrel?
I want to get an amber monitor.

[Anonymous No.6087349]

>>6086823
Thanks for the help

[Anonymous No.6087516]

>>6086829
I dont think theres a setting to fix tilt
Ill probably break something trying to fix it

[Anonymous No.6087560]

>>6086404
wtf man that looks perfect for a CRT. I think you should get an LCD

[Anonymous No.6087565]

>>6086957
Math is really far off there.

[Anonymous No.6087570]

>>6086952
>I'm a desk user, so it sounds like 14 is adequate.
>Still, even my PC CRT is larger than that, and it feels like the bare minimum of what is acceptable, though that is with desktop use in mind.
Yeah, if you think how they were used, 14" would have been meant for desk use. Not really something to play in the living room, something to sit close to and work on video editing or reading medical images. 14" is definitely ok for desk use.

[Anonymous No.6087571]

>>6086404
The only real issue is the tilt, that can be a bitch to adjust, I'd say if you can curb your own 'tism, it's already good enough to play games on. If you can't, looks like it's time to adjust the yoke and be prepared for the possibility of a broken monitor.

[Anonymous No.6087573]

>>6087570
Most people had 14" sets as the main TV in their living room. No one had big TVs until the 90s

[Anonymous No.6087586]

>>6087237
It's an IBM 3196 terminal screen (but In use on a 3161 which came with a green screen I didn't like).
The good thing about monochrome monitors is that if the tubes are the same size and the necks are the same diameter, you can pretty much swap any monochrome tube for any other tube.

[Anonymous No.6087612]

>>6087560
So many games are cut off from the tilt and also cut off on the right side

[Anonymous No.6087618]

>>6087612
you can adjust the size of the raster on almost any PVM ever made.

[Anonymous No.6087702]

>>6087612
then adjust the horizontal and vertical size. Games are gonna be cut off even if the geometry is perfect because different games have different resolutions. You always have to adjust the size if you want it to be perfect

[Anonymous No.6087719]

>>6087612
PVM or not it's still a CRT TV, so expect having to fuck with V-Size and H-Size knobs/sliders every now and then.

[Anonymous No.6087884]

>>6087719
I have to take off the shell to do that
Should just set it for the highest resolition games

[Anonymous No.6087965]

>>6080482
>>6080493
It's something like "Flatron™ Monitors: No more eye fatigue! If you still have red eyes, it's ___." Don't know the last word. Google translate tells me it's "myxomatosis" which is apparently some kind of rabbit eye disease? Seems like a pretty obtuse reference no matter what.

[Anonymous No.6087969]

>>6087965
oh i didn't see the other reply, disregard that i suck cocks

[Anonymous No.6087981]

How can I properly adapt the rear input to composite on this thing, S-Video is great and all but not everything I own outputs S-video. I’d like to be able to organize all my cables and have the rear input as a composite/s-video but I can only get a black and white picture from it after combining the chroma-luma signals. Does anyone know about the chroma/Luma input on these to explain what I need to do here?

[Anonymous No.6088227]

QDLED > MicroLED >>> CRT

[Anonymous No.6088257]

>>6088227
>fake LED is better than real LED
t. LCD shill

[Anonymous No.6088446]

I recently got a 1999 low-spec Sony e-100 PC monitor like pic related for free to use for emulation. It's a 15" and only does around 1280x960@70Hz, but it still looks surprisingly clear at that resolution. It does 240p/480p super resolutions as well, which is what I mainly wanted. I'd appreciate any help with a few questions I have.

1. Currently, it's connected to my motherboard's VGA input and is running off the Intel iGPU. The biggest issue right now are the black levels. It's crushed to hell, no detail on dark hair, dark clothing, dark areas, etc. That's with brightness set to 100 on the OSD. The only way to alleviate this is using the Intel HD control panel to turn up the gamma, but at the cost of bringing out the detail it creates a washed out look. Is this something that adjusting the G2 voltage might fix or is it simply too old? And if I'm not careful or know what I'm doing, perhaps it's not even worth the thought.

2. I want to run it off my AMD GPU's DVI-I port to use my GPU's power as well as use AMD's settings instead, but I'm not sure if just any adapter will work. Would this work fine?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SOH/

Anyways, it's not a big deal if I can't get this to my liking. I've been mainly interested in PC CRTs over TVs because of the convenience of connecting them to a PC for emulation. They're so difficult to find locally nowadays though, and I can't imagine I'll ever find a 19-21" at this point. I have a pretty decent Toshiba TV with component inputs laying around, but connecting it to my PC sounds like a nightmare and I don't own any retro console besides N64. I could just say screw it and buy a Wii, but that seems to have it's own issues? Emulation is limited and component apparently looks blurry compared to the GameCube.

[Anonymous No.6088453]

>>6088446
I had an older set with low brightness and what I did was max out the brightness in the osd then adjust the g2 to the point where retrace lines just didn't show up. this helped boost the brightness and contrast quite a bit. you could try that.

also, if your gpu has analog output then a simple adapter like that is what you need. dvi-i has pins for vga in it so it's just a passive conversion with no signal loss or anything.

[Anonymous No.6088482]

>>6087516
My trin has a setting for tilt.

[Anonymous No.6088935]

>>6088446
You should be able to get excellent results out a set like that. Sounds like the G2 has shifted up a lot resulting in poor black levels. Most Sony sets suffer from this if the 'colour return' feature is used. I'm unsure if this tube will have WinDAS support, which is essentially a tool used to calibrate Sony tubes. In the meantime, I'd try turning down the brightness on the tube to around 40 and setting the gamma higher in your GPU settings. That adapter will work fine.
For emulation I use a higher end Dell P990 tube also made by sony. I find the results for emulation are best at 480p60 as any higher refresh rates result in ghosting unless you want to use black frame insertion which I wouldn't recommend.

[Anonymous No.6089063]

should I risk my life and attempt to RGB mod my consumer Trinitron? it currently only outputs S-video

[Anonymous No.6089136]

>>6089063
The difference between Svideo and RGB is negligible. But I’m sure you’re an imbecile so you’ll end up falling for the meme.

[Anonymous No.6089148]

>>6088935
g2 shifting up wouldn't result in crushed blacks. did you even read what he said? if anything his g2 is too low.

[Anonymous No.6089184]

>>6089136
the difference is pretty obvious on a good display.

[Anonymous No.6089203]

>>6089063
s-video is honestly pretty good on a quality crt, I think you'll be fine without rgb. But no, unless it's not even a question you probably aren't capable enough to modify a crt by yourself, keep in mind that repairing these things was a full blown trade professions for decades, it is not an insignificant skillset and I would not take it lightly.

[Anonymous No.6089305]

>>6089184
I didn’t deny there’s a difference, I said it’s negligible. Even on a “good” display.

[Anonymous No.6089421]

>>6089305
It's not negligible, though. Why do you lie like that? Is it sour grapes?

[Anonymous No.6089565]

>>6089421
But in actuality it is.

[Anonymous No.6089578]

>>6087981
Anyone have any idea on this? I can’t find any solid info through google.

[Anonymous No.6089649]

>>6089578
Just use the composite input, retard.

[Anonymous No.6090275]

Anyone ever used a Cornerstone brand monitor before? I got this CD2181A/01 for free from a church basement today. I know it's a 21" shadow mask tube and the native resolution is 1600x1200. The model number turns up practically nothing useful when I try searching for it online. Was hoping to find a manual or more detailed specs.

[Anonymous No.6090281]

>>6090275
That's some massive blooming you've got there, even worse than a bargain bin TV.

[Anonymous No.6090334]

>>6090281
That was prior to any adjustments being made, whoever was using it before had the settings all fucked up and.

I got the colors and geometry fixed now, my only complaint is that it' not a very bright tube. But it'll make a nice dreamcast monitor and it was free.

[Anonymous No.6090338]

>>6089184
I’ve tested this a lot and you’re wrong. Do you have any proof?

[Anonymous No.6090414]

I got a hand me down TV from work, what do you all think? It supports RGB and I'm using cables from HDRetrovision. 1/2

[Anonymous No.6090418]

Got this TV from work, it supports RGB, not a retro videophile or anything, but I did go out and buy some HDRetrovision cables to go with it, thoughts? 1/2

[Anonymous No.6090421]

>>6090418
2/2 this is the model, I balanced the color best I could.

[Anonymous No.6090449]

>>6090418
>>6090421
I'm jelly. I'd use it as a PC monitor.

[Anonymous No.6090494]

>>6090418
Not bad for a regular TV.

[Anonymous No.6090506]

>>6090494
I think I could have done a lot worse.

[Anonymous No.6090509]

>>6090494
It doesn't seem bad at all, I think I could have done much worse.

[Anonymous No.6090523]

People in my neighborhood are curbing nice 1080i crts with regularity and I'm confused on how hd crts handle 240p and 480p signals. I remember reading that HD crts are horrible when it comes lag because it upscales and processes the input image and there's no way to stop it. Is this true?

[Anonymous No.6090535]

>>6090523
They're terrible for 240p and 480i. My old room mate had one and I liked playing 480p stuff on it. Watching blu-ray movies on it looked really nice too.

It wouldn't be my first choice for retro games, but they're kinda neat if you have the space for one.

[Anonymous No.6090537]

Anyone help identify? Its nearby and want to know if its decent.

[Anonymous No.6090553]

>>6090537
Looks like a standard 4:3 set. Do you have pics of the back?

[Anonymous No.6090559]

>>6090523
They're mostly useless for being stuck in a position where it's bad for old games while also not supporting modern HD video formats. Unless you have empty space you absolutely need to fill I say leave them for the garbage collector.

[Anonymous No.6090561]

>>6090553
No the old lady on facebook said it was too heavy to move it back. the only other thing i have is another angle.

[Anonymous No.6090565]

>>6090561
Go to her place. If it's 4:3 and has component inputs cop it. And be sure to bring a car it'll fit in.

[Anonymous No.6090742]

Win10 doesnt seem to show resolutions below 480p
How do i get 240p? Im using CRU for my custom resolutions

[Anonymous No.6090754]

>>6090742
What GPU? I know Nvidia has options for custom timings, AMD should have something similar.

[Anonymous No.6091082]

>>6090537
>>6090561
XBR200 probably 32"

[Anonymous No.6091151]

for U.S anons looking for places to find CRTs besides craigslist or ebay, go to your state's department of ecology website and then search for "e-cycle"
your state might have an e-cycling program to help you locate places nearby where you can give your old electronics
go there and ask for CRTs

[Anonymous No.6091198]

>>6090754
Gtx 970
Shoulf i use nvidia control panel instead of CRU to create resolutions?

[Anonymous No.6091206]

>>6091198
control panel works fine for nvidia, I just use that unless I want to change the "native" resolution.

[Anonymous No.6091207]

For spanish anons, go to your local "punto limpio" recycling spacw and they often have CRTs that people leave there
If you ask politely to take them it shouldnt be an issue

[Anonymous No.6091319]

>>6090742
I couldn't get custom resolutions to show on windows 10 either. I'm not sure if it was my GPU or the OS. I used "Quick res" and it fixed the problem. You just open up the .exe and then right click it on the task bar of the corresponding monitor and it shows the resolutions that won't normally show up.

[Anonymous No.6091497]

>>6090742
VGA is restricted to at least 31KHz

[Anonymous No.6091538]

>>6091497
That's why you compensate by setting the refresh to 120Hz.

[Anonymous No.6091595]

>>6091497
lmao no it's not. VGA is just a connector type. Plenty of cards can output 15kHz over a VGA connector using custom drivers

[Anonymous No.6091610]

>>6091595
VGA is a video card and the set of de-facto standards based around it. DE-15 is the connector type. If it's 15 kHz, it's not VGA.

[Anonymous No.6091618]

>>6091610
This. The "VGA" connector does not exist and is just RGBHV with DDC in a DE15 form factor.

[Anonymous No.6091637]

>>6091610
lmao ok retard

[Anonymous No.6091664]

>>6091637
That result literally says the connector on a VGA card is a DE15. VGA refers to the card, not the connector.

[Anonymous No.6091725]

>>6091664
The result is literally titled "VGA connector" and calls it a VGA connector. learn to read. It's both

[Anonymous No.6091859]

>>6091725
The article is retconned shite

[Anonymous No.6091890]

>>6086643
just get a Wii, softmod it and connect it to a CRT with a component cable
the emulators on a Wii output a 240p without issues
problem solved

[Anonymous No.6091927]

>>6091859
>I'm not wrong they just retconned history!!!

[Anonymous No.6092084]

>>6091927
>they

It's a Wikipedia article you poobrain

[Anonymous No.6092205]

>>6090742
I used CRT_Emudriver with VMM, but need to flash ATOM-15. Werks on my machine (using ATi card)

[Anonymous No.6092210]

Whats the best way to get old anime onto a crt without burning dvds? Tried using an old xp machine with the component out on the graphics card and it works but it's super flickery on the desktop. Can't notice it as bad while watching video but it's still there.

[Anonymous No.6092213]

>>6092210
I dunno maybe play it through a Wii? Could you put it on an SD card or flash drive?

[Anonymous No.6092231]

>>6092213
Would a ps3 work? Have an old fat one laying around with a dead hdmi port but the component still works.

[Anonymous No.6092238]

>>6090559
>>6090535

What about 480p to 720p. Say I use it for gamecube and want to take advantage of gc's 480p and a crts zero latency. Do hd crts still do image processing and scaling even if you feed them a "HD" signal? I guess I'm asking if HD crts have lag. I'm starting to think that the only way I using 480p on gc is with a pvm that can do progressive scan

[Anonymous No.6092243]

>>6092231
I don't see why not. Should be able to just load the anime on a USB and play straight from there with the PS3. Just gotta make sure the folders are set up right

[Anonymous No.6092253]

>>6092243
Could also just use Plex right? Already have it setup for my living room.

[Anonymous No.6092254]

>>6092238
Use a PC monitor.

[Anonymous No.6092285]

>>6092254
No one is dumping pc monitors to the curb. Also wouldn't I have to do some sort of conversion to get gc to work on a pc monitor? The HD tvs on the curb were interesting to me because I thought I could get good enough for free with out having to buy anything to get it to work.

[Anonymous No.6092297]

I finally upgraded to a desk that can handle this behemoth.

[Anonymous No.6092314]

>>6092285
Much easier to find than multiformat PVMs. Component to VGA converters are cheap, and GameCube component cables can be modified for RGBHV.

[Anonymous No.6092316]

>>6092210
Use a ps3 or xbox 360 to output component 480i and run use plex

[Anonymous No.6092343]

>>6092253
plex doesn't work on the ps3 with 480i, just a heads up

[Anonymous No.6092348]

>>6092314
Still not free though. I still keep an eye out for not craptacular pc monitors.

Are those converters passive or do they require power and processing time??

[Anonymous No.6092357]

>>6092348
Power, yes. Processing time, no, as long as it's not doing any scaling.

[Anonymous No.6092368]

>>6092357
Hmmm, noted. Thanks. Merry chrismasu

[Anonymous No.6092382]

>>6092316
Honestly an OG Xbox has way better quality output and has DLNA, Miracast and AirPlay through XMBC. It also runs 10 bit content properly whereas the PS360 doesnt

[Anonymous No.6092663]

>>6092314
>and GameCube component cables can be modified for RGBHV.
Sure if you want to spend at least 200 bucks to get them first

[Anonymous No.6092671]

>>6092663
He presumably already has them, since that's how you get 480p out of a GameCube. Besides, not all of us were late to the party. I got mine brand new in 2003 from Nintendo's web store.

[Anonymous No.6092847]

>>6091890
Not true, the emulators on Wii have soft video image compared to a real Super Nintendo or sega genesis

[Anonymous No.6092979]

>had a reseller laugh at me on gumtree for telling him that I wouldn't offer anything more than $600 bucks for anything comparable to a 20L5
Resellers can get fucked. Even 600 bucks is too much for outdated technology. I'm glad I bought my 14m2u for 50 bucks back in 2013 before the market was fucked by bandwagoning fucks.

[Anonymous No.6093019]

>>6092382
Xbox 360 over plex runs 10 bit content just fine

[Anonymous No.6093021]

>>6092979
blame youtubers

[Anonymous No.6093069]

>>6091637
>vga CONNECTOR
It's the connector FOR VGA, not VGA in and of itself.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Video_Graphics_Array

[Anonymous No.6093080]

>>6092979
just get it for free :))))))))

[Anonymous No.6093143]

>>6092979
Get his address then go rob him at gunpoint and rape his gf and dog. Also steal his pvms.

[Anonymous No.6093160]

>>6092979
Can’t wait till all of the consumer CRTs are rounded up by resellers and hoarders and in 10 years people will be charging 100+ for a Magnavox.

[Anonymous No.6093458]

merry christmas, /crtg/

[Anonymous No.6093624]

>>6093160

"Sony FV310 RETRO GAMING TV GRAIL $750"

Its coming so make those craigslist pickups while you can anons

[Anonymous No.6093626]

>>6093624
can't wait. I'm not super fond of my fv310 and wouldn't care much if I ended up selling it and replaced it with a more common model.

[Anonymous No.6093795]

Bros I found a Sony Trinitron CPD-G220R PC monitor in a basement and it seems to work, but I'm getting some intermittent clicking accompanied by the screen sort of fading/flashing out for a sec.
I'm unfamiliar with CRT behavior, can anyone fill me in?

[Anonymous No.6093798]

>>6093160
At least it means they get to survive and not get junked out and recycled.

[Anonymous No.6093834]

>>6086372
That's the guy from valkyria chronicles

[Anonymous No.6093887]

>>6093795
I'm no expert but I'd be looking at the flyback. Sounds like it could be arcing

[Anonymous No.6094128]

>>6093458
>/crtg/
WHO

[isac No.6094262]

>>6078735

[isac No.6094267]

>>6094262
cat

[isac No.6094286]

>>6094267

[Anonymous No.6094389]

>>6093160
>>6093624
The main problem is that people are now intimately aware of this because of recent videos within the last two years and the meme has spread out to the point where free pickups are no longer a thing in a lot of areas like mine when they can sell to hipsters for a lot of money, but unlike vinyl and related equipment, no one is going to start making them again because of market conditions and manufacturing costs. It is not worth it to pick up a CRT monitor as soon as you get into the >$100 range for general usage and anything >$300 for just retro gaming is just a nono in my books. Not to rain on anyone's parade here since this is /crtg/ but CRTs are massively oversold to the average person for things that modern displays have gotten better at or completely surpassed and it feels it's so sellers can hoard and sell with "I know what I have" attitudes.
No one can do objective test on any metric and tell me CRTs wins in color or resolution compared to some modern displays out with OLED and 4k. For other things like input lag and refresh rate, you can argue modern displays are worse but you can not deny that they are scarily close. In my view though for both metrics, when professional gamers are willing to give up CRTs for modern 240Hz displays with millions of dollars on the line, the difference isn't worth it to the average person either.
So really, the only thing CRTs really have left is motion clarity and display scaling. And modern displays are close on motion clarity too. A recent monitor release, the Viewsonic XG270, was tuned by the Blurbusters Chief and he claims if you strobe this 240Hz monitor at 120Hz, it surpasses the Sony FW900. Big claim, so waiting on third party reviews there. But it's not good for CRTs when the list of things they are better at vs. modern displays is getting smaller. It's a good thing though since CRTs are going to keep dying in the coming years and we need replacements at some point with modern displays.

[Anonymous No.6094402]

>>6094262
>>6094267
>>6094286
imagine the smell

[Anonymous No.6094450]

>>6094389
Too long didn't read, fag

[Anonymous No.6094473]

>>6094450
Then don't respond, seriously, no one is forcing you to make low quality posts. Your post should honestly be bannable or moved to [s4s].

[Anonymous No.6094476]

>>6094450
I read it but I don't even own a CRT so no dog in this fight. I agree with what he said though. The nail in the coffin will be when the boomers finally die off, no more free CRTs. Gen X always know what they've got, and millennials will horde whatever they can.

[Anonymous No.6094482]

>>6094476
Will my BVMs ever break into 5 figure price range?

[Anonymous No.6094523]

>>6094402

I wish I hadn't

>>6094389

Idk what the weather is like where this anon is but it's a high chance of snow judging by this wall of text, jesus christ.

To summarize:

"CRT's are now being rivalled or matched in key metrics by some modern televisions that cost over 1000 dollars, don't come smaller than 55" and will only display old consoles well with the addition of an external scaler. Also by certain high end gaming monitors when configured a specific way."

Sick, dude. I'll keep my eyes peeled for when I can get an LG E9 on fb marketplace for free, my free CRT is gonna be BTFO honestly

[Anonymous No.6094604]

just got a trannytron for free from a local boomer
what do I get next? I want to play SNES games

[Anonymous No.6094639]

>>6094604
Get a SNES if you want to play snes games.

[Anonymous No.6094653]

How do you guys deal with overscan?.

I recently got CPS1 and 2 working in 240p on my Wii, but the damn screen res is too big to display everything.
Shifting the screen around just cuts off one thing or the other.

Do you guys just deal with it or what?

[Anonymous No.6094691]

>>6094653

does your set not have vsiz/hsiz type adjustments?

[Anonymous No.6094958]

>>6094604
open it up and stick your hand inside. it's best to get a feel for CRTs by feeling around inside them so you know how all the parts work.

[Anonymous No.6094960]

>>6094482
no. something will break on them before then and they'll be worth nothing

[Anonymous No.6094961]

>>6094286
get a bedsheet anon. that's fucking nasty

[Anonymous No.6094971]

>>6093069
also known as a VGA connector https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VGA_connector

[Anonymous No.6094985]

>>6078735
Why the fuck do CRTs look so shit? Everyone compares them next to budget LCD in attempts to make them 'pop', but they still look shit.

[Anonymous No.6095006]

>>6094262
Aren't you that greenlandic anon who also posts in bst?

[Anonymous No.6095102]

>>6094985
wow you triggered me good. this is the CRT thread and you said CRTs are shit! Epic troll

[isac No.6095176]

>>6095006
yes

[Anonymous No.6095473]

>>6095176
Nice syncmaster

[Anonymous No.6095478]

>>6095473

[Anonymous No.6095482]

>>6095478
Sorry for the weird angle, I was getting moire patterns at this distance with the camera vertical

[Anonymous No.6095497]

>>6095473
Is the syncmaster 750s a good choice for vga with retro? I’m new

[Anonymous No.6095506]

>>6095497
Depends what you want to do with it. It can do 640x480, so it'd be good for Dreamcast at least. For 240p (as with all 31kHz monitors) you'd need additional equipment (a line doubler) to go with it. Overall they're pretty solid monitors, I have a Syncmaster 900IFT.

[Anonymous No.6095512]

>>6095506
I need it for Dreamcast and a sega game gear with vga out. I got it New in box new old stock. So I’m guessing I’ll be good?

[Anonymous No.6095516]

>>6095512
>New in box new old stock
Oh hell yeah, the colors are sure to be awesome in that case since the phosphors will be new. My 900IFT (pic) has amazing colors and I got it used.

[Anonymous No.6095520]

>>6095516
Thanks for your help man!

[Anonymous No.6095524]

>>6095516
Those colors really are quite amazing

[Anonymous No.6095529]

>>6095520
Sure thing. I also wanted to say that I don't know anything about Game Gear so I can't say for sure that that'll work with it

[Anonymous No.6095625]

>>6095516
fanfic girl ruined the remake. Golden was a mistake

[Anonymous No.6095829]

>>6095625
We can't really discuss this here, but
She's worst girl, but hard disagree about it ruining the experience. Golden is so worth it for the extra content all around.

[Anonymous No.6096167]

>>6094985
>Every monitor that doesn't cost at least 1000 bucks is budget shit

[Anonymous No.6096174]

>>6095829
Yes we can, we can house rule anything by pretending it existed in 99 or earlier. /vr/ doesn't mean shit. We talk about plenty of monitors from after 2000.

>>6096167
I think you might be on to something. A $500 tube vs a $150 lcd is all we ever see on this sub. Pathetic the tube has only the benefit of a few ms lower delay. LOL JOKING!!! I mean look at this crisp image!!!! Such deep blacks and the color just pops!

[Anonymous No.6096178]

>>6096174
Kek, that's what I remember CRTs looking like my entire life. Thought it might be a Mandela effect.

[Anonymous No.6096325]

They say in a Smash thread that the PVM lags in 480i, but not 480p.
Is this true?

[Anonymous No.6096326]

>>6096174
The LCD in the OP is a relatively high-end ASUS monitor. Definitely not budget.

[Anonymous No.6096329]

>>6096326
Literally is at walmart for $120 only weeks ago. Wtf are you smoking? Asus makes the lowest and highest end in the market. That one is near lowest, you can tell by the base it is the MG24 line. A TN panel for poors.

[Anonymous No.6096331]

>>6096325
Depends on the unit. There are hundreds of processors out there and they all have variations you can find lag in.
Most are below a ms. Where as a few percent are 8, 16, 32, or variable delay. Good luck noticing 10-20ms constant unless someone tells you OR it is variable and goes from 15-70 and back.

[Anonymous No.6096348]

>>6096329
>MG
It's in the PQ line, retard.

[Anonymous No.6096657]

>>6094985
>>6096174
>>6096178
epic troll samefag

[Anonymous No.6097263]

picked up a trinitron monitor
should I get a i5 3550 / 8gb RAM pc for $120?
how well will retroarch's runahead and frame delay features work? (mainly for the bsnes-accurate core)

[Anonymous No.6097493]

>>6097263
If you already have a PC just stick a 980Ti in there and play everything to your heart's content.

[Anonymous No.6098138]

Hey /vr/, got my tri sync in a cabinet and had occasional snaps, usually (but not always) accompanied by the image flickering, changing size slightly and wobbling. Left it running and eventually stopped.
There is a metal frame in the cabinet but the electrics aren't too close or touching. There was some dust that I cleaned out beforehand and we have had the air conditioner running (warm day)
Are any of these likely culprits, or should I be worried? I was planning to turn on in the morning and see if there were any issues then. Or do they need some warm up time?

[Anonymous No.6098140]

>>6098138
how does the anode cup look? could be arcing there.

[Anonymous No.6098362]

I have the option of picking a new sony PVM, Should I go with the 600 lines or 800 lines? Both are 20inch

[Anonymous No.6098365]

>>6098362
600 for sure. 800 is too much unless it's a multiformat.

[Anonymous No.6098602]

>>6098362
You should test both of them and pick up whatever looks better to you. If they were in the exact same condition I would prefer the 800 line PVM but it's hard to see a difference between 600 and 800 lines at 20 inches

[Anonymous No.6098752]

How do you measure lines on something that is supposed to be continuous and indiscrete?

[Anonymous No.6098801]

>>6087884
>I have to take the shell off to do that
…So make them external by running some wires?
>>6090338
>proof?
Not who you asked, but here you go.

[Anonymous No.6098817]

>>6090418
make your own cables or add jacks.
Don't buy overpriced shit.
>>6091618
Pedantic but correct
Have fun being the only correct person in the room.
>>6092297
>SGI
I am pretty envious of that.
>X220
X201 tablet's better.
>>6094604
follow >>6094639 's advice
>>6094985
gr8 b8 m8
>>6095473
Yeah we saw it already, you have a nice monitor. Bravo.
>>6096325
No, smash people are retarded (I say this as a casual melee player). What PVM is this, even?
>>6098362
600. I have a 20L5 (800) and I only can bear using it for 480p.
>>6098752
You need to elaborate on that. Who are you even replying to?
But if you mean what I think you mean, by feeding a 1Vp-p square wave to the video input (with sync added) and see how many cycles you can get to display as separate lines before they start blurring together.

[Anonymous No.6098820]

>>6098817
note however that on a 14" tube 800 TVL is more bearable than on a 20" tube.

[Anonymous No.6098828]

>>6098817
That SGI looks like a rebranded Sony Trinitron.

[Anonymous No.6098838]

>>6098828
Sure, but who the fuck cares? The case has a great shade of grey and it's a high end monitor compared to a majority of trinitron PC monitors out there.
I love old Unix related stuff.

[Anonymous No.6098849]

>>6097493
750ti's cheaper. gt630 would work too

[Anonymous No.6098852]

>>6098138
Check that the flyback transformer solder isn't cracked.

[Anonymous No.6098858]

>>6098849
Depends on what you want to play. If it's pure /vr/ even integrated graphics would work.

[Anonymous No.6098880]

>>6098858
IDK, dreamcast can be a little bit tricky on my 9 year old thinkpad. And the good N64 GPU plugins usually require a newer OpenGL version than mine supports.

[Anonymous No.6098941]

Did 4chan X's noscript captcha thing stop working for anyone else?
I fucking hate normal recaptcha– and it absolutely never works on the first try either.

[Anonymous No.6098995]

>>6098941
I think noscript captcha went away a couple weeks ago.

[Anonymous No.6099006]

You guys purify my soul when my heart is about to explode

[Anonymous No.6099008]

>>6098995
That's what I figured.
What a shame. I guess the allure of more shekels from 4chan passes is to blame. https://github.com/ccd0/4chan-x/wiki/Captcha-FAQ

That kerning, though. I guess the game uses intelligent spacing everywhere but text entry fields.

>>6099006
I also do exorcisms and weddings.

[Anonymous No.6099009]

>>6099006
Kill yourself, faggot.

[Anonymous No.6099093]

>>6099008
I've been a good goy lately so I don't get captchas anymore. Try to quit being so evil

[Anonymous No.6099129]

>>6099093
>I stay logged in to my google account, accept all cookies, have JS turned on, don't block ads, and still have flash player enabled by default. I run Windows 10 with default settings, and registered an MS account when I installed it. Updates are installed automatically. I don't care about security and just want my pornographic VN's to play. I genuinely believe companies work in my best interest. I pay the cemu authors on patreon to support development of an emulator likely made with stolen code and/or documentation

[Anonymous No.6099192]

>>6099129
>pornographic VNs
that's a good thing

[Anonymous No.6099501]

>>6099192
I'm not going to say that Monmusu Quest isn't one of the greatest works of this millenium. But I'm saying that the 'muh gaymes' argument is dumb.
I run it in wine.

Got FlashFloppy on my Gotek drive. Now I just have to decide how I want to install it so that the case fits back together. Gotta say, it's nice not having to pray every time I turn it on that the ultra-loud 4GB HDD from '96 hasn't failed yet (Amiga 500 with A590).

[Anonymous No.6099638]

Too bad Ultima III ports were all pretty meh graphics-wise (despite being better than prior ultima games).

[Anonymous No.6099640]

>>6099638
(By which I mean to say, they did not age too well.)

[Anonymous No.6099689]

Kick his ass, Yuffie.
Lazy low quality picture for a lazy low quality night

[Anonymous No.6099720]

>>6098801
The RGB version looks like shit. Her hairband looks like a flight of steps.

[Anonymous No.6099732]

>>6099720
>The RGB version looks like shit. You can tell where pixels start and end.
Nice cope.
The S-Video version looks like shit. You can't even tell the hairband's blue from two feet away.

[Anonymous No.6099741]

>>6099732
>You can't even tell the hairband's blue from two feet away.
>I'm PVMemed and prefer sharp square pixels and tiny screens
If you have that small of a screen I feel bad for you because it means you don't have friends for split screen multiplayer games.

[Anonymous No.6099750]

>>6099741
>He thinks this is a PVM
>small screen
Yeah, for singleplayer I like 14" screens.
I am quite happy with 20" (that one's actually a PVM) for splitscreen.
Pic unrelated but for that the screenshots we're talking about are of a Breath of Fire game. Which is an RPG and not split-screen, by the way.

[Anonymous No.6099793]

>>6099750
I didn't say I thought it was a PVM. Try learning to read.

[Anonymous No.6099801]

>>6099793
>PVMemed
>I didn't say I thought it was a PVM
Maybe you need to stop calling all nice RGB screens americans can easily get PVM's as a shorthand, then, anon.

[Anonymous No.6099802]

I've found a JVC DT-V1910 listed online with a RGB and HD-SDI board in it. Just under a 10k hours.
The owner wanted 800 EUR for it. What do you guys think?

[Anonymous No.6099807]

>>6099802
That's way too much in my opinion. I'd never pay more than $150-200USD for a good ~20" screen of any model.
With that said, if you have the means for it, who am I to judge? I'd never be able to find a middle ground with someone starting that high.

[Anonymous No.6099876]

>>6099802
Seems to be about the going rate for that one. I wouldn’t say it’s a fair deal per se but it’s on par with the market rate. It’s an amazing set and full featured. End game for sure. If you have the disposable income to throw at it, it’ll be the last multiformat you’d ever want, bar a Megaview.

[Anonymous No.6100120]

>>6099807
>>6099876
Thanks for your replies, I made a appointment to go look at it. Are there any defects I should be wary for?

[Anonymous No.6100134]

>>6100120
antiglare coat scratches. DT-V coating scratches on a stern look, and 16/9 mask sits on it, so be prepared to have marks.

[Anonymous No.6100165]

>>6099802
800 is way too high. Theyre way more common in Europe vs America. I paid like 500 usd after waiting for a long time and that was average.

[Anonymous No.6100167]

>>6079471
I really don't get it,
i mean, in your image it is clear why to use a filter. The left face looks like upscaled 2x HD shit and the right face is smooth as fuck.

but than i see shit like this
>>6079456
>>6079431
>>6079274
>>6079195
and i think to myself, filters actual look like shit!

Am i falling for some psy ops shit? Is the face on the left side actually upscaled 2xTimes with a sharp filter so it just looks a lot more shittier?

[Anonymous No.6100173]

>>6100167
the left one is an integer scale of raw output. it's not filtered at all which is the point. it's to show that rgb isn't ideal if a game relies on dithering.

[Anonymous No.6100179]

>>6100173
arcade Contra is RGB you dumb fuck.

[Anonymous No.6100180]

>>6100179
yeah and it looks fucking dumb as a result.

[Anonymous No.6100181]

>>6100173
>if a game relies on dithering
this is my second thought, same with games using either 4:3 or 8:7, it is not like that all games use the same aspect ratio.
How to see what kind of filter is right for each game?
For example, two games on the same platform.

Mega Drive
OutRun
Garfield - Caught in the Act

NES
Super Mario
Tetris

and so on.....

would both games look good with the same filter or would i need to use different filters for each game?

[Anonymous No.6100182]

>>6100181
there is no right option for filters. just find the ones you like and use them or get a real crt and quit trying to fake that shit.

[Anonymous No.6100187]

>>6100182
>find the ones you like
i don't have any references, don't know what actual is objectiv good looking, also hard to make my mind up with all the people flying on the internet telling me what to think is good or bad

said with that, than this comes up everytime:
> or get a real crt and quit trying to fake that shit.
always posted in a passive agressive way as if i talk to a shill or scalper.

hey man, i'm sorry but there is no trust on the internet.

[Anonymous No.6100192]

>>6100187
>don't know what actual is objectiv good looking, also hard to make my mind up with all the people flying on the internet telling me what to think is good or bad
the issue isn't any of this, it's that you can't form your own opinions and think for yourself. there is no objectiveness in how something looks. you might like a soft composite image while the next dickhead likes rgb on a 2000tvl monitor. how is someone supposed to tell you what preference you should have?
>always posted in a passive agressive way as if i talk to a shill or scalper.
I'm telling you to go and pick up a real crt off craigslist or gumtree or something. they're fucking everywhere and usually free or like 20€. you sound paranoid af dude.

[Anonymous No.6100204]

>>6100192
>you sound paranoid af
Which is a good think to have when using the internet.

>>6100192
>telling you to go and pick up a real crt off craigslist or gumtree or something. they're fucking everywhere and usually free or like 20€
i don't see the need to go such lenght such for a good filter. This sound more like a last option for faggots who can't enjoy games and always frickle in the settings for the right look.

I get it, a sharp upscaled video game looks like bullcrap, everyone can agree on that, even more so when the game is pixelshit.
I understand the need for some kind of filter to prevent pixelbleeding or shit like this.
But why are there so many different filters out there and why is there no simple overall filter, why the need to frickel like a retard in the settings for each game, what is up with all the faggots making comparison images.... this shit is flat earth level.

[Anonymous No.6100228]

>>6100134
Are there any good ways to check the tube life?
>>6100165
Maybe I can do something about the price, I'll see

[Anonymous No.6100605]

What's the consensus on Hitachi monitors? I have the opportunity to get one for free, but I've been having a hard time finding any useful info about them.

[Anonymous No.6100613]

>>6100605
As always what's the model and what are its specs? Maximum resolution? H/V scanrate?

[Anonymous No.6100618]

>>6100613
I don't know what model it is specifically, just that it's one of their higher end monitors from the late 90's/early 00's.

[Anonymous No.6100621]

>>6095473
Nice. Looks the same as my Dell Trinitron but with different badging.

[Anonymous No.6100624]

>>6100618
Then go for it. Nothing like the low, low price of free.
Also how many inches?

[Anonymous No.6100625]

>>6098817
>bulk reply post
>stupid asshole with nothing worth saying
Every fuckin' time.

[Anonymous No.6100772]

higher tvl count for 240p content absolutely makes for a better image with retro games. you guys are delusional if you think otherwise and/or coping. stay mad of my 900tvl bvm.

[Anonymous No.6100779]

>>6100772
Some people like looking through blinds, others prefer a solid image. To each their own I guess.

[Anonymous No.6100787]

>>6100779

higher tvl looks better. cope harder.

[Anonymous No.6100794]

>>6100787
Visible scanlines are nice but when blank areas are larger than the scanlines it becomes horrible to look at. In your image the D20F1U is close to the limit where it's 50% scanlines and 50% blank.

[Anonymous No.6100797]

>>6100787
I like composite the best.

[Anonymous No.6100802]

>>6100797
Composite is literally loss of information.

[Anonymous No.6100806]

>>6100802
losing literal discrete "information" to gain smooth, natural gradation

[Anonymous No.6100809]

>>6100806
I would say that but even in the first two images of the same TV you can tell the difference between RGB and composhit. It's like taking a 500x500 image and scaling it down to 200x200 while pretending it looks good.

[Anonymous No.6100823]

Pros and cons of a sony 2030?

[Anonymous No.6100827]

Please help me /vr/

I'm trying to figure out if a crt that's going to be given away soon is any good for retro gaming. I mainly would use it for a NES, SNES, and Genesis but I might get a Playstation soon. I looked it up and some people were saying it's HD and therefore doesnt have good video for older consoles. Is this true? Should I go for it?

specs: https://www.cnet.com/products/sony-kv-36hs420-wega-36-crt-tv/specs/

[Anonymous No.6100828]

Is it worth it to get one of those really and common CRTs from 2000s? They cost like 5$ here. Are they better for early 2000s games, or about the same as modern monitors? I'm not looking to buy some ancient 500$ crt from 90s. From what I understand 90s stuff is expensive and mid 2000s very common, but worse.

[Anonymous No.6100832]

>>6100827
Skip it. That thing's basically a HDTV with a CRT for its screen. Everything will be upscaled to shit and it's not what you want.

[Anonymous No.6100851]

>>6100827
>>6100828
take some chances and learn some things first

[Anonymous No.6100869]

Advice to fix pic related?
I can't manage to make the green area go away.
When I put a magnet anywhere else, it goes away if I turn it off and then on (auto degauss). But this remains. Is this TV fubar'd?

[Anonymous No.6100870]

>>6100851
Oo
Now she wan fuck with my crew

[Anonymous No.6100871]

[Anonymous No.6100880]

>>6100869
Looks like severe magnetization. Built in degausser isn't very powerful and you'll need a degaussing coil to fix it. Plug it in and wave it around the screen until it looks good.

[Anonymous No.6100884]

>>6100869
I fixed mine doing circles form the center to the outside with the back of a corded drill (on and at max speed) pointing to the screen, while keeping the distance from close to far as long as the drill reached the far side.

Had to do a few passes, but now it's like new.

[Anonymous No.6100887]

>>6100880
Do you think there's a problem with the built-in speaker vis-a-vis magnets?

>>6100884
I tried this too but doesn't seem to do much.

[Anonymous No.6100889]

>>6100802
So what? It looks nice.

[Anonymous No.6101160]

>>6100806
>RGB can't have gradients
Remember that everything in the real world has a limited frequency. There's no such thing as an instant change in amplitude.

[Anonymous No.6101187]

Do thrift stores still sell CRT's? The Goodwill's here won't even take them anymore, and it seems like everyone in my town just trashed them all. Where do I go to look for a plain crt?

[Anonymous No.6101193]

>>6101187
Goodwill stopped taking them a while ago but independently-owned stores have walls of them.

[Anonymous No.6101226]

Fellas, is this a good CRT with which to /vr/?

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/zip/d/rockfall-free-34-sony-tv/7044298066.html

[Anonymous No.6101238]

>>6101226
no

[Anonymous No.6101247]

>>6101238

thanks

why tho

[Anonymous No.6101249]

>>6101247
hd

[Anonymous No.6101253]

>>6101249

k, i thought the kv series was pretty highly regarded for some reason. thanks

[Anonymous No.6101264]

Serious question, if you prefer a higher TVL and scanlines why not just make your own shader? Sharp pixels and scanlines are light on the CPU and then you can customize it. It's the composite/S-Video blooming and blurring effects that shaders can't replicate.

[Anonymous No.6101478]

Is it even possible to get something like an FW900 or an XM29+ nowadays without paying an arm and a leg, or have all the high-end stuff been meme'd to hell already?

[Anonymous No.6101497]

>>6101478
FW900 are unironic memes, there's two units on eBay with starting prices of $1950 thanks to DigitalFoundry memeing it even more.

[Anonymous No.6101498]

>>6101478
Last year I got 2 fw900s for $100 total. Just luck. Earlier this year I saw another one go for $50 near me.

[Anonymous No.6101502]

>>6101253
kv just means direct view crt. you want a V, FV, or XBR model that is SD.

[Anonymous No.6101504]

>>6101498
Yes but that was still before DF floored the meme pedal.

[Anonymous No.6101506]

>>6101253
some are, some aren't, personally I find most of those sets have really bad geometry issues while all other brands are fine from the era.

[Anonymous No.6101621]

>>6100625
Okay, what would you have said?
>>6100167
It feels nice to be appreciated (all four of the posts you referred to were mine).
>>6100228
Not sure about the particular screen, but a general rule is check how bright it gets when you max out the contrast control.
>>6100605
Can be good, can be bad. if it's higher end, likely nice.
>>6100779
>Some people like looking through blinds, others prefer a solid image. To each their own I guess.
This anon gets it.
I like solid image but also well-defined pixels, so I like the tridot monitors as a good compromise. Not a big fan of my 20L5 by comparison except for 480p stuff.
>>6100827
That's gonna have internal scaling. It'll be almost exactly like playing on a modern flatscreen, but heavier and using more power.
>>6100851
>take some chances and learn some things first
Mostly agreed, but don't get anything with HDMI input.
>>6100869
Yikes. You can try degaussing with an external wand, but that looks bad.
Make sure that no convergence strips have fallen off the tube glass, those can mess with purity.
Make sure the deflection yoke is still securely fastened down (not loose).
I hope it's not a problem with a warped mask.
>>6100884
That sounds clever, I might try that next time I get a messed up set.
>>6101187
Depends on the shop. I never have luck with things like goodwill though.
>>6101478
Yes, but you need to get a little lucky. And the FW900 isn't quite as unparalleled as people say; it's just one of several very nice monitors.
>>6101504
Who's DF? Forgive me, I don't watch youtuber cancer.

[Anonymous No.6101625]

>>6101621
DF = DigitalFoundry, a youtube channel that recently made a video about the GDM-FW900 jacking CRT prices up to the point everyone thinks their old TV is now worth at least $200.

[Anonymous No.6101640]

Should I bother with one of these? It's like 30 minutes away, for free.
Apparently it doesn't have S-video, that's the only thing making me think twice, since I use S-video with a lot of consoles. It does have component, though.

[Anonymous No.6101648]

>>6101625
We need to take CRT's the way of usenet and go underground… it's the only way that average people who don't already have nice ones will ever be able to afford them (non-collector scum).
>>6101640
If it has component, and doesn't have HDMI, not having S-Video doesn't matter.
YPbPr is better anyway, and there are converters if you absolutely need to use s-video.

[Anonymous No.6101654]

>>6101648
Yeah, it has component and no HDMI, it's not an HD CRT.
I kinda really need S-video though. PS1, Gamecube, SNES, Saturn, Dreamcast, 3DO, I use all of these through s-video. Do these converters actually work in replicating the image quality bump?

[Anonymous No.6101963]

>>6101654
>Gamecube on s-video
Why? Get an EON GCHD, well worth it. Looks great on my trin over component.

[Anonymous No.6102119]

>>6101963
>$150 for a 3rd party cable
lmao. just use a wii

[Anonymous No.6102348]

>>6102119
oh no, you've done it now. I can already hear the spergs reeeing...

[Anonymous No.6102463]

>>6101654
The svid -> component conversion doesn't lose MUCH quality. I can't really claim I can notice it but I'm sure some anon will claim to be able to.
>>6102119
Patrician tier
>chrome subsampling
shut the fuck up, it's better than the subsampling problems you'll get from s-video.

[Anonymous No.6102464]

>>6102463
chroma.* autocorrect fuckup on a new phone.
>phoneposter
Yeah, that's me. My mistake.

[Anonymous No.6102503]

>>6101648
>If it has component, and doesn't have HDMI
That's not necessarily a sign it's not hd (although in this case for Sony it is). Remember that before digital HD through dvi/hdmi, people used analog HD through component

[Anonymous No.6102505]

Reminder that if you want to do a lot of conversion between different video signals, get yourself an old a/v receiver. That's what they were for and they do it well

[Anonymous No.6102549]

>>6102505
needs to be one from like the early 2000s onward though doesn't it?

[Anonymous No.6102580]

>>6100787
Why would you pay for a pvm/bvm and give up 50% of the screen to scanlions? The second image is much more pleasing. It would be even better if they had enough brains to rgb mod a shadow mask set.

[Anonymous No.6102592]

It ain't no PVMeme, but I just got this 20 incher for $15 and from the looks of it it's RGB moddable.

[Anonymous No.6102594]

>>6102503
Well it sure is a good thing we were discussing a Sony TV then, isn't it?
>>6102505
I've had two receivers and neither of mine did conversions. I'd be interested to know what you're using for it.
>>6102580
scanlines are the raster, the black areas are not.
But I agree, high TVL monitors (particularly aperture grilles) don't look as pleasing to the eye. I'm OK with tri-dot though, in most cases.
>>6102592
Cute.
If you are lost, get me a service manual and I can try to help point out where you might begin.

[Anonymous No.6102602]

>>6102594
The service manual is the first result here
http://www.umlib.com/brand/Toshiba/category/TV/model/MD20F12
I've already downloaded it and it doesn't look too bad. I'm not sure if the onscreen overlays will still work since my guess is I'd be feeding the RGB straight into the video amp.

[Anonymous No.6102604]

>>6102594
>Well it sure is a good thing we were discussing a Sony TV then, isn't it?
Oops. I've been awake way too long. My mistake. Sorry, we were talking about a toshiba.
Still I can tell you that model's not HD without even looking it up.
>>6102602
will take a peek. thanks.

[Anonymous No.6102620]

>>6102594
Ok retard, if you want to get snippy

[Anonymous No.6102628]

>>6102620
Wow, you're right! Hey everyone, look at Mr. Pedant over here being right. Good job, Mr Pedant. I don't know what this thread would ever do without your guidance and wisdom.
>>6102602
Pic related is how I'd try to feed it through, personally.
Unfortunately there isn't a datasheet I can find for the "jungle IC" (IC601, part # M61277FP-DF0H) like I could for my toshiba set, but I'm still pretty confident based on the way that everything connects to it that I have it all marked out right.

[Anonymous No.6102637]

>>6102628
note that OSD_Y indicates maybe if all else fails you may just need to feed the S-video or component video "Y" signal in to switch to RGB.

[Anonymous No.6102643]

>>6102628
>anon always delivers
That's what I thought, I'd have to apply the signal directly to the single set of RGB inputs on that chip.
>>6102637
I'll keep that in mind. The TV only has two composite video ins.

[Anonymous No.6102649]

>>6102594
>scanlines are the raster, the black areas are not.
I think most people know this but at the same time it's been used backwards in the gaming scene for so long that the casual usage of the word scanline refers to the gaps between the active raster lines.

[Anonymous No.6102650]

>>6102643
if you have an oscilloscope it may be prudent to check the peak voltage on pin 13 of IC601 with the OSD enabled.
If you can't, that's fine too, probably. Note that there's a 100 ohm resistor between the IC that creates the OSD and pin 13 of IC601, so you may want to include that. IDK.

[Anonymous No.6102653]

>>6102643
composite might work in place of Y, but try to provide Y from the console if you can.

[Anonymous No.6102660]

>>6102650
From what I've read I'd need the resistor connected when I want RGB, it's probably (as you said) toggled when the OSD needs to be shown.
I don't have a scope but I should really get one. I used to use the ones at my university's EE lab but I just graduated.

[Anonymous No.6102669]

>>6102649
It was originally called a "scanline filter" because it imitated the look of lowres video on a CRT monitor which makes individual scanlines visible but then zoomers began thinking the blank space between active lines were scanlines and the misnomer took off.

[Anonymous No.6102697]

>>6102669
yeah, that's part of how languages work and it's silly to get upset over it. also it was millennials who popularized the current usage, not zoomers.

[Anonymous No.6102836]

Anybody here run really old school tubes? Like tvs that still use vacuum tubes old.

[Anonymous No.6102925]

>>6102836
Those belong in a museum, not a game room.

[Anonymous No.6103692]

[Anonymous No.6103790]

>>6102836
I had a chance to own one, didn't have room. It was an old heathkit TV (already assembled unfortunately).
>>6102660
If you're in indiana/ohio/michigan or somewhere around there feel free to use mine.

[Anonymous No.6103937]

>>6102348
Fuck the spergs use a Wii

[Anonymous No.6104202]

>>6103692
What does this signify? That it turns RGB into piss, or that RGB is to be pissed on?
YCgCo is superior anyway, as it can losslessly be transformed with just two extra bits. I don't know why we don't use it.

[Anonymous No.6104205]

>>6102580
>give up 50% of the screen to scanlions?
That pic is kind of an exaggeration. I've had a PVM for many years and the scanlines are not that noticeable. Close up pictures exaggerate their prominence greatly. Once you're sitting at least 3 feet away, they kind of disappear. The completely solid pixel graphics you get on emulators always look a bit weird and flat to me. The scanlines just give the image some texture and depth.

Although, I have heard some people who have played on the highest of high-end BVMs say that the scanlines are so pronounced as to be distracting, but even still, most people with RGB/production monitors aren't playing with those kinds of TV lines.

>>6102669
>zoomers began thinking the blank space between active lines were scanlines and the misnomer took off.
Boomer here. I always knew what the "scanlines" referred to, but I see a lot of people, even my age, who don'tknow what they are or what they're called, simply because nobody fucking cared about scanlines 20-40 years ago. Heck, most people didn't even notice interlacing existed until it was pointed out to them. Scanlines weren't some kind of celebrated, highly-sought-after feature of 240p content. Most people didn't even register them, they were just a part of the display. It's weird the things that fan communities obsess over as times change.

[Anonymous No.6104225]

>>6102697
>Rants about how people are being pedantic over the term scanline
>Is pedantic over the term zoomer

[Anonymous No.6104269]

>>6104225
you got me there

[Anonymous No.6105092]

it won't degauss fuck

[Anonymous No.6105378]

>>6105092
It just means you're not doing it right

[Anonymous No.6105438]

>>6105378
i'm using a degaussing coil in a circular motion walking forward and then back.

[Anonymous No.6105445]

>>6105438
might mean it's a purity issue.

[Anonymous No.6105453]

>>6105445
how do i fix this?

[Anonymous No.6105456]

>>6105445
Oh yeah, or related it the yoke is off-kilter

[Anonymous No.6105457]

>>6105445
Or worst case is the mask is permanently damaged

[Anonymous No.6105480]

>>6105445
CRT MASTER RACE!!!!!

[Anonymous No.6105532]

Looking to hoard some consumer set crts. What's the good ones outside of trinitrons? Just wanna store a couple extra for the future.

[Anonymous No.6105564]

Somebody want to explain how isolation transformers keep you from being shocked by tvs while working on them? From my understanding it's decoupling it from ground so you can't be part of a circuit to ground. Only circuit to circuit. Got one free from an old time radio/tv repairman.

[Anonymous No.6105567]

>>6105564
Oops

[Anonymous No.6105568]

>>6105564

[Anonymous No.6105582]

>>6105532
Go to Craigslist and search "TV" in electronics for sale. Pick up anything with component input.

[Anonymous No.6105594]

>>6105582
Man console tv anon would love this, look at that fat remote. No component unfortunately, also over two hours away.

[Anonymous No.6105603]

>>6105594
Is that the remote with softkeys and the huge LCD?

[Anonymous No.6105605]

>>6105603
No it's just fat and has a flip cover over the top buttons.

[Anonymous No.6105609]

>>6105605
>safety on record button
I love it.

[Anonymous No.6105620]

Pvmeme faggots should be exterminated

[Anonymous No.6105624]

>>6105620
As should OSSC retards

[Anonymous No.6105628]

Fuck all CRT bandwagon riding faggots!!!!

[Anonymous No.6105630]

>>6105628
Oh yeah, and niggers too!!!!!

[Anonymous No.6105684]

>>6105628
What's the matter sweaty? Can't find a decent set near you?

[Anonymous No.6105708]

>>6105564
Yes. The transformer supplying your house is literally connected to the ground at the neutral point. This is why you don't touch live wires, because current will run through your body, then through the ground and back to the transformer. The isolating transformer has no connection to ground, so there is nowhere for the current to go. You will have to touch two points in the circuit that have different potentials to become a resistor and kill yourself.

[Anonymous No.6106129]

happy new year you fat sweaty losers!

[Anonymous No.6106580]

>>6106129
Thanks anon. I've lost weight and started taking showers weekly. also fuck sony

[Anonymous No.6106992]

NEW BREAD
>>6106991
>>6106991
>>6106991
NEW BREAD
>>6106991
>>6106991
>>6106991
NEW BREAD

[Anonymous No.6107018]

Hi guys, newbie here (23yo) does anybody able to explain to me why I have a flat screen SD Trinitron that doesn't say Wega and a flat screen SD Trinitron that does say Wega and what the difference is? The Wega is 24" and the non-wega is 36". I'm also interested in the Sony KV crts because I like the thin black frame around the screen instead of the giant silver speaker boxes, are they good?