Retro Repair

[Anonymous No.4988473]

Retro repair thread. Ask away and we'll try to help you bring those old consoles back to life.

[Anonymous No.4988484]

>>4988473
My Super Nintendo powers on and gives me video signal but resets indefinitely and rapidly.

Most games are just a black screen but Super Punch Out has something come up within the 1 second the system stays on before it resets, so it just looks like a flashing silver Nintendo logo.

Everything inside checks out. I've opened it and I see no damage or corrosion.

[Anonymous No.4988486]

>>4988484
I also tried two different power adapters

[Anonymous No.4988519]

Yesterday I noticed my SNES developed the faint vertical bar problem on the video signal.

I read online you can mitigate this by soldering a capacitor at the voltage regulator and S-Enc chip, and so I did, I started with the regulator, and as I was double checking my work, I noticed that the O pin was showing continuity to ground. I'm no electrician, but isn't this a bad thing? I thought something was wrong with the capacitor I used, so I took it out, then checked again, and it still was showing continuity, double checked to make sure the pins were not shortened too.

This may be a stupid question, but is this a normal thing or is it a sign that the regulator itself is bad? And if so, am I better off replacing the whole thing instead of using the capacitors?

[Anonymous No.4988526]

Just some FYI on AV modding an original Famicom. This is shit: https://assemblergames.com/threads/guide-av-mod-your-famicom.49263/ This is better: https://jpx72web.blogspot.com/2016/11/famicom-av-mod-new.html Second link is as good as the route I went, though arguably slightly more jailbars.

I actually used this: http://trolsoft.ru/ru/articles/famicom-av-mod . Use google translate. I bought 2 boards for $17 and the dude speaks english. I can say this kit works well.

What I learned about jail bars: Wrapping the PPU and/or CPU in copper foil and grounding does basically nothing. I think it's a placebo. Using a 100uf cap between PPU pin 20 (ground) and 22, 1uf on CPU 40 to ground improves like 3% of jailbars. I tried 1uf like in the jpx72 site and noticed nothing.

It should be no surprise, but lifting pin 21 is what removes most jailbars. The problem with that russian board is that you have to send un amplified video signal about 6" before it reaches the video/audio amp/power supply board. I used shielded (with shield tied to ground) wire.

I believe if you built a video amp like: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/JbiAVMeR put almost directly on pin 21 would be the best solution, but the russian board works pretty damn good, there is also some dude on ebay that sells a similar kit with a trrs port, but he charges like $40 for it.

All in all the takeaway is, foil wrapping is a fucking joke, not worth desoldering the entire PPU, even for someone who has desoldered one a dozen times or so before. The real way to eliminate 95% of jail bars is lift pin 21. You can get rid of about 3% more with the capacitors. You won't eliminate them all short of nesrgb mod, but you can get them to a very good level that makes them hard to notice.

[Anonymous No.4988547]

>>4988484

Shot in the dark, try wiggling where the power port plugs in, does it stop or make it worse?

Also, I know you're tired of hearing this, but make DAMN sure that the cart connector is CLEAN.

If you have a multimeter check that the middle pin to an outside pin is 5v on one and middle to other is 9-12v depending on the connector. The main thing is one side to ground is 5v. Honestly a bad power regulator makes a ton of problems.

>>4988519
As leddit of an answer as this sounds, did you check the caps? It could be cap related. Also visually inspect the power port and make sure it's not fubar.

[Anonymous No.4989060]

>>4988547
I assume you mean the capacitors that already come on the board itself from factory? Yeah, those are fine.
As for the power port, it looks fine as far as I can tell by eye, then again, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for.

I should say the SNES is still turning on and working, even now, that faint vertical bar bothers my OCD though.

[Anonymous No.4989249]

need someone to flash my Saturn for me, Im too chicken to do it

[Anonymous No.4989576]

I have a playstation 1 7501 that will not power on. No green light, no wining, nothing. I checked the cable, caps look fine, and fuse is intact. Are there some points to check on the PSU before i got the cap replacement route? can i check the output of the psu for 3v?

[Anonymous No.4990192]

yes

[Anonymous No.4990370]

My Playstation seems to have a disc reading error. Most of the time the games will load with the console sitting flat as it's supposed to, but sometimes it will need to be turned on its side. Also intros to games or music often stutter, though gameplay never seems to suffer. For example, when playing thps games the songs will restart or skip but the gameplay works perfectly.

[Anonymous No.4990402]

Is there anybody with experience on Roland MT-32 repair/rejunification? I've been meaning to ask for help in a long while but I never found repair threads when I checked.

[Anonymous No.4990403]

>>4990370
my saturn is having a similar issue, only on some games, the music will stutter and cut out but gameplay seems fine.

[Anonymous No.4990413]

>>4988473
my Sega CD will boot up and spin discs, but not play them, it just goes to the music player and doesn't recognize them, even audio CDs, I replaced the laser (it's the kind w/o the solder short thing) and it acts just the same...

[Anonymous No.4990419]

I think the pins in my NES are fucked up, every time i turn it on with a game in it turns into a glitchy mess

[Anonymous No.4990426]

Is there anybody with experience on Roland MT-32 repair/rejuvenation? I've been meaning to ask for help in a long while but I never found repair threads when I checked.

[Anonymous No.4990958]

You never answered me. I'm looking for decent rubber pads for a Snes controller.

[Anonymous No.4991023]

>>4990370

Sounds like the laser may have drifted out of spec. There is a trim pot that you can adjust. The proper way is to use an oscilloscope. The dirty way is to barely turn the screw on the trimpot, as in you're not even sure it moved and try it.

>>4990419
Does the game ever work? A buddy of mine fixed a master system with garbled/glitchy graphics by replacing a bad 7805. To test the 7805 put a multimeter lead to the middle pin. Touch the other lead to an outer leg. One should be very close to 5v. If it's not close to 5v, it's bad. The other leg (and center pin) should be whatever voltage the power supply puts out. It could be dirty or bad 72 pin, but honestly I think 72 pins get replaced way more than needed. A good cleaning usually fixes them.

>>4990958
I'm not who you asked but as cheap as they are, just buy a few different sets and post which ones are good. I've never replaced them personally so I have no idea.

[Anonymous No.4991950]

>>4988547
I wiggled a lot and got the video to go out but not the power. I had to struggle to wiggle it

[Anonymous No.4993274]

>>4989249
>being afraid a console will laugh at your micropenis

[Anonymous No.4993779]

I need to recap a Jag and a Turbo Duo but I need to replace my shitty soldering iron, anyone know a good source for a fine tipped iron?

[Anonymous No.4993791]

Anyone with a PS2 slim stay away from the amazon/ebay repro power cables. They only work for 20-30 minutes then you’ll hear a pop noise and the power goes off. The thing felt really light, so I open it up. And find this shit. REPRO PS2 POWER CABLES ARE A TOTAL SCAM STAY AWAY FROM THEM. Luckily my PS2 is fine and still works perfectly now that I have an actual real PS2 slim power cable now.

[Anonymous No.4993794]

>>4990413
Ribbon cable replace maybe? Sounds like data isn’t going where it needs to.

[Anonymous No.4993804]

>>4990413
Model 2?

[Anonymous No.4993846]

I require assistance, fellow /vr/troopers

My JVC X'Eye can't play Sega CD games.
It plays Genesis games and music cd's perfectly, but always freezes whenever I try to load a Sega CD game. Also on the boot up screen, it seems the X in the logo is glitchy.

Idk if my X'Eye is posessed by the spirit of Tom Kalinske, but do any of you guys know what might be causing this?

[Anonymous No.4993847]

>>4993846

[Anonymous No.4993881]

I have a problem with 2 if my Original Xbox consoles

1. Model 1.6, chipmod failed, XT Plus2, pins removed from debug, cables removed all but 2 welds still on it at 2 different places on the motherboard (close go each other, only a drop neded to connect these 2). When started after modding, "christm9lights". Same after removal of everything but 2 welds still there, lights again. Will try to find them and undo it, line near the chip cut. see mrmario2011 tutorial

2. Xbox PSU Delta DPSN BP96 or something like that. BP model not DP dead to to circuit mini metallic screwdriver rolled under without noticing and shotcircuited it. Fuse seems ok but only have old analog multimeter and somethinf blue leaked out (white square part at the end of the psu with a cross on it) can't find the problem, no turn on. 1.3 or 1.4 model. First mode with a dual row connector on the motherboard. need to find procedure

thanks

[Anonymous No.4993883]

I got a new stereo for my TV. I can now hear everything, literally fucking everything. That's good. Except...

On some consoles like SNES and PS1 whenever there's a lot of static text on screen I get a kind of high pitch buzzing through the speakers. Goes away depending on what's on the screen. Is there a way to fix this?

I'd rather open up the console for a fix than buy new cables.

[Anonymous No.4993889]

>>4993883
Try something else in the stereo. Use contact cleaner/brake cleaner, see inside the stereo if it is not there. Is there multiple stereo inputs?

>New hardware
>2 machines, same problem
Start there

[Anonymous No.4993905]

>>4993889
I'm fairly sure it's not the stereo itself considering that 1) the problem is dependent on whats on the screen and 2) some consoles don't have the issue. I actually think the problem was there before I got the stereo too, I just couldn't hear it due to bad speakers muffling the fuck out of everything.

[Anonymous No.4994006]

>>4993881
You’re using a $3 Chinese chip from eBay that doesn’t have the 1.6 BIOS on it. Only way to do it is to use a chip programmer and a PLCC socket adapter. Google M8_plus16.bin.

[Anonymous No.4994009]

>>4994006
Buy one from Eurasia instead you cheap fuck btw.

[Anonymous No.4994020]

>>4994009
At least then modrobert would be able to give him some good advice on IRC

[Anonymous No.4994035]

>>4993779
hoppyking

[Anonymous No.4994036]

>>4993779
hobbyking's YIHUA!!1
>>4993791
what's wrong with that?

[Anonymous No.4994084]

So I got myself a Sega Master System recently.
The console itself works fine, however the controller buttons need to be pushed with an alarming amount of force before they register as having been pressed. Also one of them has a d-pad that doesn't register down or left presses at all.
I figured that the problems must be caused by ageing or degraded membranes inside since I had a similar issue with an old n64 controller That I fixed by replacing said part.
Now is it just me or does nobody sell replacement membranes for master system controllers? I've searched all over the place with no luck.
is my only hope to take the existing ones out and clean/boil them or something?

[Anonymous No.4994642]

>>4994020
what are you implying you piece of shit, this is exactly the issue and well-known

[Anonymous No.4994692]

>>4993905
Sounds less like a stereo issue and more like a cable issue. There's some bad interference going on. I had the same issue with cheap scart cables from amazon; lots of static noise. Bought higher end cables and it cleared right up

[Anonymous No.4994793]

Tested a recently modded N64 RGB mod by quickly plugging everything in without putting the console back together. Turns out I installed the expansion pak backwards and now I'm getting no power.
Undid the mod, still no power.
Is the main board/psu/expansion pak/rgb board fried?
Am I completely fucked?

[Anonymous No.4994802]

>>4994036
It’s a fire hazard

[Anonymous No.4994882]

>>4993779
Use more flux and you don't need a small tip iron. Watch voltaur video to see it how done.

[Anonymous No.4994883]

>>4993883
Snes has the digital audio mod. Basically shielded cables are the best fix for other consoles.

[Anonymous No.4995798]

>>4994793
>I installed the expansion pak
maybe blew a fuse?

[Anonymous No.4995821]

>>4988473
On my SNES controllers some buttons don't properly react, you have to push them hard for them to register the input, just pushing them normally might not do anything. Wat do?

Alternatively, is there an easy way to hook up the SNES mini controllers to an actual SNES?

[Anonymous No.4996546]

>>4993791

I bought a generic laptop supply for making a genesis/32x/cd 3 in 1 cable. I had done nothing to it in any way. I plugged it in and there was a huge pop and smoke literally came out of the brick (was an inline type) I opened it up and there was either a resistor, diode or ceramic cap that had literally vaporized. I don't know what the component was as it was completely black and was missing 80% of it's material. The whole inside of the box was black from the burning.

Don't buy them, I don't recall the model, but it was like $4-6 shipped.

[Anonymous No.4996551]

>>4995821

First thing would be to take them apart and clean with 91% or greater isopropyl alcohol. This will likely fix them, if it doesn't you might need replacement rubbers. This is a decent overview, it's NES but applies to most controllers: https://youtu.be/Ttk_ArKi_-0

[Anonymous No.4997674]

>>4996546
can you explain your original thought? Were you going to put voltage regulators in from of the laptop charger and put everything in parallel to the charger? I have lots of old high-ish watt OEM laptop chargers sitting around but they're all 12-18V

[Anonymous No.4997731]

>>4997674
Not that anon but I use all high amp 12v PSUs with a standard barrel plug and use adapters and bucks to convert plugs and voltages and splitters to power multiple devices. Works great. Probably because I paid more than 4 bucks. I can run a GB and a NGCD off the same PSU.

[Anonymous No.4999997]

bump

[Anonymous No.5000246]

>>4997731
I do pretty much the same thing but all running off a single Extron PS 128 I picked up cheap.

https://www.extron.com/mobile/products/product.aspx?id=ps128&subtype=201#aspnetForm

The Sega "Tower of Power" is a non-issue for me.

[Anonymous No.5000910]

>>4993847
>>4993846
If its playing Music but can't play a Sega CD game that usually means the laser is going bad.

As for the video being weird, do you get that on the Genesis side as well or just when trying a CD?

[Anonymous No.5000936]

>>4990370
>My Playstation seems to have a disc reading error. Most of the time the games will load with the console sitting flat as it's supposed to, but sometimes it will need to be turned on its side.
It may be time to replace the laser sled. This was a common problem with 100X units because of a mix of things.....The power supply generates heat, and the plastic of the laser sled is sensitive to heat long term. Replacing the laser will cost $20-$40 depending on where you source it from. They are very easy to replace.

[Anonymous No.5000953]

>>4988519
it's just your multimeter thinking it's continuity but it's not.
anyway let us know if you find a solution that works because it appears to me most of the stuff online is placebo effect
RGB helps a ton in my experience, and S-Video has the worst vertical band

[Anonymous No.5000957]

>>4988519
It doesn't hurt to replace the 7805 but don't think it will solve all your problems. Also don't run the 7805 without a heat sync or it will burn up.

[Anonymous No.5000959]

>>4990958
if your y/b/a/x buttons are decent, you can pull the d-pad out of a junk N64 controller. you have to cut the corner off it to fit, but it fits perfectly and feels good as new

[Anonymous No.5002192]

>>4988519
>I noticed that the O pin was showing continuity to ground.
as >>5000953 said, 0-1ohm continuity or higher resistance continuity?
some dmm still beep even if there's a resistance of 20, 30ohm.

[Anonymous No.5002221]

>>5000246
Pretty much the same spec PSUs I use but in a pretty box. I use arcade PSUs. For my retro setups, for my cabs, for my lighting, just about anything that runs on DC. It's really convenient to be able to use the same PSU for many things. But not something I'd want to mount out where people can see it.

[Anonymous No.5002361]

>>4993846
>>4993847
Try reflowing the ROM containing the Sega CD BIOS. That definitely looks like either a connection to the ROM chip or the chip itself is fucked

[Anonymous No.5002901]

http://www.smallcab.net/smallcab-supergun-light-p-270.html?osCsid=hcf34itienqttqtcugp1mns3q4

Anyone heard about these? They look even cheaper than building your own and it's making me consider getting into Neo-Geo.

[Anonymous No.5003649]

>>4997674
http://retrogamecave.weebly.com/sega-trio.html Wanted to make something like this since I have the ability to solder. I bought all the supplies (new barrel ends and such) for like $10 for about 10 of each style.

[Anonymous No.5003943]

About to solder some things. Last time i used a soldering iron was high school. The one i have has multiple tips. Do they do anything different? Do they have advantages over each other?

[Anonymous No.5003991]

Probably not that related, but my good ol' CRT TV doesn't output sound on the right speaker. I've tried changing the audio preset on the menu, turning the volume up, and nothing seems to help. The left speaker is fine. What could be the cause and can I repair it without risking turning my TV into a Gauss cannon?

[Anonymous No.5004058]

what's the best way to glue cracked plastic? The plastic nubs the screws go into inside my Atari 400 snapped off from the top of the shell

[Anonymous No.5004182]

>>5003943
>things. Last time i used a soldering iron was high school. The one i have has multiple tips. D

The larger tip holds and transfers heat better. This is very important with a low watt or cheaper iron. You can pretty much do any kind of soldering with a large tip, but in some instances it might require you to use a bit more flux.

Other than larger = more mass = more heat transfer and retention, the different sizes and shapes let you get into tighter areas and such.

Also, make sure you're using regular solder and not lead free. Lead free is the most worthless thing you could imagine. Unless you're soldering 8 hours a day for a job, or mass manufacturing and following industrial laws, lead free has no place in electronics.

One last tip, "flux forgives many sins". In other words flux lets you get away with less than perfect technique or tools.

[Anonymous No.5004183]

>>5004058

Probably a 2 part epoxy. You might get by with super glue, but some plastics don't bond with it. The gel type is less messy.

[Anonymous No.5004209]

>>5004182
Cool. Thanks man.

[Anonymous No.5004445]

>>5004183
Yeah apoxy sounds about right. I can't imagine super glue would hold against the torque of screwing the case back together

[Anonymous No.5004876]

Does anyone have experience with adjusting a Famicom Disk System?

When I bought it, it was advertised as new belt, which it had. I put the disk in and it wouldn't load, power down, re insert disk, eventually it works. Once it works, I can power down and power it back up and it will read until I remove the disc. It works basically until I remove the disc.

I used https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOY1G3Sg11Q today. It does the same thing as before. I smacked the side since sometimes smacking things works. When I smacked it, it worked.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.5004951]

Maybe just get an FDS Stick?

[Anonymous No.5005005]

>>5004951
I have one but I'm trying to get the original hardware working too.

[Anonymous No.5005576]

>>5004876
Sounds maybe it needs new caps or the read head needs to be cleaned.

[Anonymous No.5006210]

Put an RGB board in my NES, has been fine for years. Just started doing pic related; on black or mostly-black backgrounds, the entire screen, minus the top inch or two, gets all jittery and scrambled. Before anyone says it's a sync issue, I can omit the sync signal entirely and the picture is still doing this, even while de-synced.

[Anonymous No.5006312]

>>5006210
the joys of cold soldering

[Anonymous No.5006317]

>>5006312
Is that what it is? I did the mod with a shitty-ass soldering iron that straight up could not heat the solder through contact with the wire. I've been meaning to buy a nice iron with adjustable temp controls. Guess I'll do that and reflow all my joints for starters. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.5006325]

Original Xbox 1.4 tsop flash soldering issue

This is the second board im trying this on. I can solder together the R7D1&2 i believe it is no problem.

The bottom R7D10 points im having a major issue with. On the first board I couldn't get the solder to go across both points after tinning, so i tried using a blob to bridge them and ended up removing all of the solder. Tried to ise a bit of flux and resolder and ripped the pads up.

Second board im trying to use a small piece of a capacitor leg I cut to bridge the points. Thought i had it soldered in but the console refuses to tsop flash. Im scared when I go to redo it that im going to rip these pads up too and be out another $15 console. Any tips from anyone whose done this before?

Saw a video on the solderong where the dude ripped his pads off too, so im guessing this isnt super uncommon

[Anonymous No.5006475]

How common is it to have the conductive rubber pieces in an snes controller go bad? Im going to crack my old controllers open when I get home and clean them out, but should I just go ahead and buy the pads now? I remember the start button had basically stopped functioning.

[Anonymous No.5006496]

>>5006325
those points are extremely small and you're probably using too much heat. I ordered a 25W, thin-tipped iron just for that.

if memory serves, I just cleaned the area with 99% isopropyl, added some flux to the points, left a generous blob at the tip of the iron and quickly bridged the two.
you don't need an ironclad connection, I've seen people do it with pens or by simply bridging the points manually.

not saying you should try it, though.

[Anonymous No.5006498]

>>5006317
How the heck did you even desolder the CPU that way?
On a scale from 1 to 10 how fucked up did the vias look after getting the chip out?

[Anonymous No.5006568]

>>5006498
I had to wait a LONG time for the iron to heat up between pins. It was just a very tedious game of heating, sucking/wicking out a bit of solder, and rinse and repeat. Nothing looked fucked up at all when I was done. Soldering things back to the board was comparatively easy. It was all the wiring that was a bitch. The wire casings would start to excessively melt before the heat would pass though to the solder/pad. Didn't help that my iron only had a non-removable pencil tip, either. Chisel tip probably would work better.

[Anonymous No.5006582]

>>5006325
just use a piece of wire jackass

[Anonymous No.5006583]

>>5006496

Thanks! My iron is set at 300°C as i find it harder to get the solder melted below that, but ill try to lower it and let it flow over this wire piece to hopefully connect it.

As for the one i ripped up the pads on, im not able to get that one to boot, as it flashes all red, not sure if there is a fix as all ive seen online are general error codes. It worked until i ripped up those pads.

Thanks again!

[Anonymous No.5006589]

>>5006582

Thats pretty much what I have now, its a very small capacitor leg cause thats what i had sitting on the bench.

[Anonymous No.5006791]

>>5006568
Isn't the only pair of wires you have to solder the one to replace the 7805?
Also, you're lucky you didn't fuck up your CPU or PPU since they to bite into the grass if they get exposed to heat for too long. At least i doubt they did.
Anyways, what I would recommend is to get a better iron, some flux, reflow the through-holes on the interposers and the motherboards, reseat your chips (it can cause problems when they're not seated firmly enough inside the sockets) and maybe reconnect the the ribbon cables for good measure as well.

[Anonymous No.5006837]

Can you tell me how to fix this old dmg? You cant see links face anymore, Insatlled backlight and vibert chip myself I dont think i broke anything but i dont know

[Anonymous No.5006840]

>>5006837
I tried flipping and turning the polarizer but that didnt work

[Anonymous No.5008364]

>>5006791
>Isn't the only pair of wires you have to solder the one to replace the 7805?
Those, plus the ones to the new multi-out, plus the ones for the palette switch, if you install it, which I did. Getting the PPU out wasn't nearly as hard as people made it out to be. It was basically a game of timing, waiting long enough for my shitty iron to heat up, and figuring out the right length of time to apply it to each of the pins on the chip to just get a little bit of solder out before too much heat dissipated into the PPU itself. I did not have the proper tools on hand the first time I did the mod, so I'll take the fucker apart and redo everything. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.5008369]

>>5006837
>You cant see links face anymore
It's right there, though. I can see it just fine, only it's black pixels instead of light. I've never done a backlight mod, but isn't that what a polarizer is supposed to do?

[Anonymous No.5008391]

Sometimes after playing my NES for a short time, the console begins rapidly resetting. It stops once unplugged. Help.

[Anonymous No.5008401]

>>5006325
>a bit of flux
flux is your friend, drown that board, DROWN IT.

[Anonymous No.5008403]

>>5008369
bivert reverses colors (whites > blacks) and when you turn the polarizing film (black square-ish sheet), colors revert back to normal and contrast goes up.

or at least that's what it's supposed to do.
anon has been here since yesterday and I can't for the life of me figure out what's wrong. you literally rotate the film around until it looks right, you can even do it while it's on so you can see it in action.

[Anonymous No.5009028]

>>5008401

If you're trying to bridge pads without using cap legs, flux is your enemy. Flux prevents bridging, though in all other cases flux is your friend.

[Anonymous No.5009115]

Not really /vr/ but my laserdisc player whirrs, but won't open the tray. Anyone familiar with this issue?

[Anonymous No.5009327]

>>5009115

If it were me, I'd take it apart and make sure whatever the tray slides on was lubed (probably white lithium), also make sure everything is in it's proper place and not jammed up. It's old at this point so the lube is probably dried out.

[Anonymous No.5009339]

Not really a repair question but this is the closest relevant thread. I was wondering if anyone could point me towards an acceptable AV cable to purchase for a Genesis Model 1? third party is fine.

[Anonymous No.5009446]

>>5009339

Literally any on ebay listed under model 1 genesis. Cords aren't black magic.

[Anonymous No.5009858]

>>5009446
I don't have an ebay account and have no inclination to ever get one. Where else?

[Anonymous No.5009879]

>>5009028
I used flux on the first board and it pulled all the solder off onto the iron and i couldnt get them resoldered.

This second one i just want to try and drop some more solder on the capacitor leg branching the points with no flux

[Anonymous No.5009951]

>>5009858
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=genesis+1+video+cable
Comeon buddy

[Anonymous No.5010359]

>>5000246
How to you step down the voltages though? Most consoles are 9-10v with some odd ones in there. Are you just throwing 12V at everything? That does not seem good for the electronics in the long run if it even works. Voltage is not like amps. You can't have extra ones.

I considered using a guitar pedal PSU since there's tons of tested schematics for those with build instructions online. Guitar pedals do use 3v, 9v, 12v, etc. everything you would from 2600 to up. The whole thing that inspired this isn't even the tower of power it's that dang negative center, 10v, 1.25A genesis 1 PSU. I can never find one and it's going to be a hacking system anyways.

[Anonymous No.5010474]

>>5009028
>If you're trying to bridge pads without using cap legs, flux is your enemy.
more solder
>>5009858
>and have no inclination to ever get one
well...
>>5009879
>I used flux on the first board and it pulled all the solder off onto the iron
then the spot you wanted to solder to wasn't hot enough.

[Anonymous No.5010691]

>>5002901
Yes. I've heard of many sites that buy shit from China and mark it up for hipsters.

>>5006475
That all depends on how much you care about using words correctly. I doubt "conductive rubber" has ever gone bad in any controller. But I know for a fact conductive coating on rubber in controllers goes bad frequently. Especially when tards "clean" it off the rubber.

>>5010359
If anon pretty much does the same thing as the post replied to except uses an extron then he pretty much uses bucks. And his consoles pretty much use regulators rated for far more voltage than that extron can supply. How exactly is finding a compatible part for a "negative center, 10v, 1.25A" PSU a problem for you? Enquiring minds want to know.

[Anonymous No.5011245]

>>5010691
fuck i'm retarded. I did not know what bucks are. I know now.

it's not that the genesis 1 psu is hard to find to spec i just don't have any laying around, and can't find one at goodwill. actually i just looked it up, it's 9v negative center, 1.2a. Would a polarity switched positive center 9v 1a work? I have that in a wall wart.

[Anonymous No.5011260]

>>5010691
Are you saying this kind of supergun exists on something like Aliexpress?

[Anonymous No.5011630]

>>5011245
Power wise that'd be fine. Can't speak to the quality but the spec is ok. Power = volts * amps and a typical regulator in a retro console brings a wide range of voltage down to 5 while requiring ~7.5 to operate. A power hungry model with a flash cart and two controllers wouldn't come close to taxing that PSU.

>>5011260
Yes

[Anonymous No.5011785]

>>5011630
Can't find the same thing, just something similar that looks like shoddier quality for the same price. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/JAMMA-to-DB-15PIN-Joypad-Converting-Board-JAMMA-CBOX-Converter-With-SCART-Output-For-Any-JAMMA/607318_32845227000.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.74.50f74d6esxeZXG&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10130_10068_10547_10059_10548_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_10618_10139_10307,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=f5bc1bcb-1c06-44d3-9376-935c4c11173c-10&algo_pvid=f5bc1bcb-1c06-44d3-9376-935c4c11173c&priceBeautifyAB=0

[Anonymous No.5011823]

>>5003991
>>5003991
looks up the model number with "service manual" see if you can remove the speakers without fucking with the innards. probably a bad connection or just dry rotted depending on conditions and age. depending on what it is you can get non-meme crts at the thrift for $10-15 still

[Anonymous No.5012081]

my Saturn's action replay won't save any changes I make. Specifically I'm trying to play panzer dragoon saga PAL on a japanese saturn, and the action replay code causes the thing to crash when I click the start game button. But it also seems that normal game save data doesn't save, either; i tried copying a save from internal storage onto the action replay and then starting the game and it freezes in the same place