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/vr/ - Retro Games

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4450426 No.4450426 [Reply] [Original]

Post your repair issues, progress, and questions here.

I have a GBC with a very corroded headphone jack that even with alcohol cant seen to clean it up. its so bad that the gbc wont output sound because it thinks there;s a headphone plugged in. Can i just buy a new headphone jack and solder it in? Where could i even find something like that now?

>> No.4450626
File: 1.30 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11147.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4450626

bump

>> No.4451530

>>4450426
3.5mm ports are still produced, anon. You can either rob a good one out of an MP3 player you don't use anymore or you can order one or a set. They're not that hard to get.

>> No.4451547

>>4451530
he'll need a specific mounting style, though, or it wont fit on the pcb

I suggest looking at datasheets on digikey or mouser to find the right part

>> No.4451552

>>4451547
>>4451530
thanks guys, maybe someones documented the part list for gbc. are Colors still expensive? maybe i could buy a broken one as an alternative

>> No.4451556

also, just to put this out there, alcohol doesn't do a good job of cleaning soda residue, water on a qtip or brush actually works better

>> No.4451573

>>4451547
Good point, Anon. I'm not thinking clearly at all right now.

>>4451552
Check eBay. There's usually a myriad of broken ones and some of the nicer sellers will tell you what's wrong with it. Last I checked they were roughly $20 for broken ones. Try Untested as well, usually a lot of options there.

>> No.4451627

Is there anywhere to buy nes PPUs and CPUs? I broke the pin off the one from my donor system. I know you can grind the top of the chip away and resolder the leg back, but it's a real pain in the ass. I was hoping to find them without having to ruin a good system.

FYI, I'm troubleshooting my toploader, it either has a bad PPU, possibly CPU, wanting to fix it again. I bought it back in the day at a garage sale for $12, gamed a lot on it, so I'm quite attached to it.

>> No.4451634

>>4451627
First of all have you socketed the CPU and PPU so you can easily test the chips?

And I don't think any place has the chips for sale. Your best bet is to buy a beat to fuck NES system for parts and hope the chip is good.

>> No.4451645

>>4451627
There's really no excuse for throwing away a chip just because you broke off the pin and it's not that hard to chip away a bit of the dip.
Even a dull pair of side cutters should do the trick as long as you're careful enough.

>> No.4451651

>>4451634

I have the sockets but haven't installed them yet. I'm waiting for some flux in the mail and a better solder sucker.

I don't want to fuck up my toploader so I'm waiting til I get the right tools to remove the PPU from it. I messed up the ppu from the donor since I was using a horrible broken solder sucker and got too rambunctious. It was fucking dumb, but nothing to do about it now.

>> No.4451659

>>4451651
don't tell me you tried to remove the PPU from another top loader. Tell me it was a toaster.

Also if you really really want to go all the way a Hakko FR-300. Those are expensive but make though hole work a breeze.

>> No.4451667

>>4450426
http://www.littlesounddj.com/lsd/prosound/

>> No.4451669

>>4451645
Yeah, I've done it before on a different chip, I wont get rid of it, I just don't feel like pissing with it right now desu. I will probably put the chip in a different system or keep for parts.

>> No.4451671

>>4451651
>>4451659
If you don't feel like getting a pricey desoldering gun you can do it like this:
>Use solder sucker to suck out most of the solder
>Apply hot air to the underside of the board where the chip sits and at the same time grab the chip whit a chip pulling tool (even a chip hot air gun should do)
>After under 5 seconds you'll feel the chip coming completely lose and it'll slide out like butter

>> No.4451672

>>4451659

Yeah, it was an old broken toaster I took it from. It belonged to a friend, broken 72 pin and the case was destroyed, but board was decent other than grime.

>> No.4451674

>>4451671
meant cheap not chip

>> No.4451675

>>4451671
That is also an option but keep in mind the boards can only take so much heat damage before warping and possible damage.

>> No.4451676

>>4451671

That sounds good, I have a solder station with hot air too. I may end up getting that $98 hako knock off soon.

>> No.4451683

>>4451675
Heat damage isn't really a concern except maybe for near plastic parts which you should indeed shield off before doing this.
That's why you first suck out all of the solder with a solder sucker.
Thanks to that you can even get it to slide out with a relatively low temperature in usually ~2 seconds.
I doubt it'll hurt the board in any way. And I've done this multiple times without problems.

>> No.4451689

I just got an SNES that's not working for $5. I'm still waiting on a game bit screwdriver to get here from Amazon, so in the meantime I tried cleaning the cartridge pin connector. I have made sure the cartridge is clean as well.

The power LED comes on, but I just get a black screen. I plan on cleaning the pin connector with some contact cleaner once I'm able to take it apart. What other problems should I be on the look out for?

>> No.4451691

>>4451683
It was just a word of caution to not try too many times.

>> No.4451692

>>4451683

I think I'll try that. I want to practice first. I have an old broken tv from the curb. It's got some chips so I'll try on that first. I've probably picked a dozen tvs from the curb over the years and this one is the only one that didn't work. It's a small one with rf only, and broken so i figured it would be good for such practice.

>> No.4451701
File: 125 KB, 1280x720, DA8D2555-FA37-4889-9CD2-D8197972B0FD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4451701

>>4450426
I had 2 projects recently.

1: got a triwing driver to replace the battery in my pokemon ruby cart. Berries wont grow with a dead battery.

2: have a Japanese PS2 slim model 70000, which is known to have the ribbon cable scratch the bottom of the Disc problem due to excess ribbon protruding up into the Disc tray. So got some heat resistant adhesive from Home Depot and glued down the excess cable onto the board.

No pics sorry, so here is one I got off image search instead

>> No.4451704

>>4451689
Sounds like it might be the black screen of death, aka a dead CPU.
>>4451691
Sure. I'd recommend anyone to install a socket after the first removal as well just so you don't have to do it over and over again.
Still, I find hot air to be even safer than a desoldering gun in a way (maybe even use it in conjunction with a desoldering gun).
Even those desoldering guns seem to like leaving a bit of residue solder in the pin holes and you can rip traces if you pull chips without being aware of that.
This is literally not possible with hot air.
>>4451692
Sounds good. As I said before, make sure you shield of plastic parts that might melt from the hot air (Like for example a famicom expansion port of controller sockets) and you should be golden.

>> No.4451712

>>4451704
Thats why you take a ruler and push on the pins a bit to break that very small amount of solder and check each pin to see if it wiggles a bit.

>> No.4451790

what are the biggest battery size mounts that fit in a gba cart?

tape doesn't work for RSE, and I don't wanna resolder a battery every time

>> No.4451960

So anon with the toploader ppu issue here:

I practiced removing about 6 chips from a junk vcr. There was even a 40 pin one. Anyway, it went super smooth. The NES however was a real bitch. Idk if they use different solder or what... the NES solder on chips seems much duller in color than the old vcr did. Anyway, I got it off of there after a little hassle and didn't damage the console. I was able to solder one of the 40 pin connectors in. My next step will be to try the other PPU. I did manage to get the broken pin to stick without grinding the top away, it was a small miracle, but it stuck. It's late so I'll work on it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice, it helped a lot.

>> No.4452050

>>4451960
If you're having issues with solder sticking apply new solder. Old solder tends to be hard and applying new solder brings down the melting temperature.

>> No.4452408

I have a SuperCIC moded PAL SNES. If I import an NTSC-J Super Gameboy and jam it in 60hz mode selected will it run normally or do the PAL SNES and jap SFamicom have pinout differences?

>> No.4452531

Toploader PPU anon here. So I'm waiting on parts... RF unit has been removed. To test video, I'm going to make this: https://web.archive.org/web/20110802065924/http://www.dutchretrogamer.nl/nes2_avmod_eng.html
or for video inclined: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68uSy-v5Dlk

This circuit is pretty easily understood if you learn about transistors and such. The parts I'm waiting on is the transistor and the 560 pf capacitor.

This av out wont be permanant, I plan on an nes rgb but this will be great to test the unit.

I have a separate question. Some unlicensed games such as wisdom tree work by sending voltage to the lockout chip. In a toaster, disabling the lockout chip can cause the wisdom tree cartridge to overheat and I'm told melt the cartridge. Since the toploader has no lockout chip, is there a similar risk to playing wisdom tree games with the toploader?

>> No.4453115

>>4450426
Check the pinout and then wade though dozens of diagrams and hope you find something that matches.
Harvest one from a dead system
Wire up any random SMD part and glue it to the board

>> No.4453624

>>4451651
Pro tip: buy some Chipquick solder remover. It looks like solder but it has a much lower melting point. You basically apply it to the pins and the solder stays molten long enough so you can physically pull the whole chip out.

It does leave a bit of mess, but a bit of scrubbing will clean it up fine.

>> No.4453628

>>4452408
Pinout is the same. I have a 60hz switch mod on my PAL snes and it runs jap games fine

>> No.4453794

>>4453624

ah nice, never heard of this. It looks like a kit is $16 so it's not terrible expensive when compared to some equipment. I'll have to pick some up, thanks for the tip.

>> No.4454083
File: 3.81 MB, 4160x3120, 1211170226.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4454083

Alright /vr/ got one for ya.
A few days back a friend and I picked up a Trintron. It's the 36 inch model. When I try to turn it on, the buzz sounds, and everything sounds right, but the screen doesn't come on. The front of the display has a small red light that flashes twice, so I looked up what that was and evidently the people online in various places say it's a power issue. Just cracked it open and was wondering where I should start.
I know that if it's a cap leaking, that's going to be pretty obvious, but everything looks fine to me.
Anyone else ever run into this issue? Anyone ever fixed it?
Pic related, that's as is immediately after opening it up. Will dust it out as well. Any insights immediately?

>> No.4454085

>>4454083
Also, can take more pics from various angles as anon's demand.

>> No.4454113

>>4454083
Could be a number of things. It's unlikely you can diagnose this from pictures. You're probably going to need to check voltages. You will likely kill yourself in the process.

>> No.4454552

>>4454113
No, I've fixed and re-capped plenty of things before, but instead of hunting it down (because working with an O-scope can be tedious) I was wondering if anyone else had a general area they would say to check first.

>> No.4454694
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4454694

smd components are bullshit
i'm suffering and i just wanted somebody to know

>> No.4454813
File: 700 KB, 2560x1536, retardatwork.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4454813

>>4454694
If you've got this kind of equipment and still manage to fuck things up you probably have arthritis in both hands and too much disposable income.

>> No.4454829

>>4454083
ask /crt/ also rip VOLTAGE

>> No.4454867

>>4454813
yeah. got the shakes too, and my eyes are fux0red. but i'm still in the game!

>> No.4455014

>>4454552
lol. Definitely going to electrocute yourself.

>>4454694
Nah. You just don't have the right tools. You need something to place parts more than you need a big old microscope.

>> No.4455015

>>4454813
What did that EXP slot do to that person to warrant that sort of abuse?

>> No.4455034

>>4455015
https://www.reddit.com/r/nes/comments/6cc7w2/tried_removing_expansion_port_now_my_nes_doesnt/
Reddit is full of retards. This is probably one of the biggest ones I've ever come across.

>> No.4455063

>>4454694

I feel your pain, I'm making an arcadetv rgb byass for sega master system 2. They SUUUUUUCK. Looks like you have an awesome setup. I'm doing 0805 with naked eye and it's terrible.

>> No.4455069

>>4455034

lol, did he put a pie or something in it and think it made it all right?

>> No.4455106

>>4455069
Pretty much. At least even most of the people over there took him for the idiot he is.

>> No.4455237

>>4455063
before i bought the dynascope (90 bux!) i was using a CCTV camera on a little tripod to look down at the boards, and the picture on a big trinitron was quite workable. hunching over an eyepiece while you work is pure misery, especially if you've got a compound scope that inverts the goddamn image!

(webcam-based microscopes have a half-second lag and i wouldn't recommend them for soldering. or for anything. garbage.)

>> No.4455250
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4455250

>>4455014
You can feel free to stop being a faggot anytime anon, some people actually used to work for NASA.

>> No.4455581

>>4455250
lol. Doing what, hauling old equipment to the dump? That doesn't magically give you electronics skills dingus, as I you discovered when you found you couldn't solder a simple SMD part. But keep on LARPing. It's entertaining.

>> No.4455625

Not quite repair but I'm looking to make a consolized MVS, and I've got a PVM. What's the cheapest/easiest way to send a picture? RGB? The RGB -> NTSC converts are expensive and with the PVM I shouldn't need one, right?

>> No.4455758

>>4455625
Depends what inputs your PVM has. There are many kinds. Also, RGB->Component is cheap as fuck and works great with all kinds of TVs. An OK 29" consumer CRT with component looks much better from across a non-shoebox living room than a 14" PVM.

>> No.4456263

>>4455758
I've got the usual BNC Component/RGB, S-Video, BNC Composite.

>> No.4456275

>>4455581
I'm the anon with the CRT, should've made that clear.

>> No.4457469

>>4456263
As long as it has csync the cheapest/easiest way would be RGB.

>> No.4457503

Just got an X'eye the seller said was broken.
Boots up fine
Plays cartridges fine
When I put in a cd the spindle will only twitch. Then it asks me to put in a cd. The AC adapter they had for it only gave 3mamps. I ordered a 1.5 amp adapter. If that doesn't fix it what should I look at next?

>> No.4457510

>>4457469
It does. So how do I go about it?

>> No.4457684

>>4457503
Look at the CD closed lid. If not then look at replacing the laser unit.

>> No.4457767

>>4457510
>connect wires to plugs
>connect plugs to monitor
That is all. If it doesn't work then connect the correct plugs to the correct places.

>> No.4457809

>>4457767
What kind of plug?
>inb4 buttplug

>> No.4457890

>>4457809
The kind your monitor has? Protip other ones won't fit.

>> No.4459804
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4459804

I'm considering buying a MVS off a guy, but the display is corrupted. Does this look fixable? He's only selling the board, so that's where the problem lies.

>> No.4460994

>>4459804

It's probably fixable. The arcade community is generally very helpful and even if it's a corrupted chip, they can often fix them. I would bet it's either a loose connection somewhere or caps. I don't know if he works on neo geo stuff, but the real bob roberts is fantastic at repair.

klov or byoac forums is the best place to find knowledgeable people on arcade stuff.

>> No.4461226

>>4453794
It lasts for ages as well.

>> No.4461239

I think I fuged up brehs. I tried to put a crystal oscillator in a switch circuit to overclock my nes and now all i'm getting is a grey screen. I think I wired the oscillator the wrong way round to begin with, too.

I took the oscillator out so now I'm just trying to get the vanilla NES to work. Still just the grey screen.

Is it possible I fried the CPU? I'm hoping i just managed to fuck the cartridge connector when pulling it off and on to get to the board. However I tried the boiling connector and bending the pins meme, and tried a replacement and neither of them work. Got a logic probe recently so any advice on what to look for would be appreciated.

>> No.4461272

>>4450426
I've been wondering about buying a as is Snes and giving a go at making it playable. How are they as far as ease of repair and refurbishment?

>> No.4461287

>>4459804

How many slots is it?

Looks to me like it's a problem with the cartridge slot, or possibly the cartridge itself. If it's a single slot I might pass, if it's a 4 slot maybe 2 or 3 will work with no problem. I've worked on a lot of those boards, sometimes you'll get lucky and it will just need a good cleaning, or you'll find some bad solder joints. Once you get past that point it can get ugly!

>> No.4461301

>>4461287
>>4460994
It's a 1-slot, and I'm ordering online so I can't inspect it. If it means ordering bundles of extra caps, memory, etc, it's probably not worth it.

>> No.4462080

>>4459804
Fix could be as simple as putting in a working cart, or not. Might be worth a few bucks to see if you can fix it. You aren't considering paying more than a few buck for something that goes for <$50 tested working with warranty, right?

>>4461301
>I'm ordering online
So overpaying on ebay? Disregard above.