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/vr/ - Retro Games

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4318554 No.4318554 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it tuuuuuuube-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+ Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP) : http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Guide to CRT Hunting : http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
Guide to Video Monitors : http://pastebin.com/pQX4N6gZ
General Purpose CRT Adjustment Guide : http://www.arcaderepairtips.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/guide_setup_adjust_arcade_monitors_v1.2.0.pdf
S-Video Pasta : http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
BKM-10R Protocol Info : http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J
JVC RGB card cloning guide : https://pastebin.com/EXqMBfcY

/crt/ Discord Server : https://discord.gg/EFWPCYE

Thread Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd1HF1jPaNTZDupCn_GGtFuB3DxW5WFFd3yT4znmLA_cuU5oA/viewform
Collaborative Consumer CRT Project Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd3_OraDPRRN_OzQ4r_-CqoNPR9J0r2KtFrpV6iuXdxM3DDJg/viewform

>> No.4318580
File: 1.03 MB, 1920x1280, 1N4A2135_1920.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

First for tuuube-related discussion.

>> No.4318663
File: 11 KB, 300x225, nintendo-wii-rgb-av-scart-cable-1-300x225.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yuropoor here, is there a decent RGB SCART cable for the Wii that has extra audio outputs? All I see is either legit cables without those, ripoffs or overly expensive official ones.

>> No.4318704


>> No.4318708

Who ever made that PCB fucking ruined that shit.

>> No.4318757
File: 86 KB, 1300x864, Hand-of-a-person-who-comitted-suicide-with-sleeping-tablets-and-alcohol.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>finally got my hands on a modded PS1
>turns out they can't output with the PS2 component cables
>my 2 trinitrons have componenet but lack S-Video so I have to settle for composite

oh god how did I ever live with this shit when I was a kid.

>> No.4318769

Thanks, that's most probably what I would need.

>> No.4318789

Just get a modded PS2

>> No.4318794

modded ps2 output ps1 in 480i for some reason

>> No.4318802
File: 2.31 MB, 5472x3648, DSC06530.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Get a transcoder and go RGB.

Because it only mods the PS2 side, and forces you to emulate the PS1 side via popsloader.

You can do swap trick, or a variant of it the PS2 in question is a slim/has a flip top installed, for proper PS1 playback.

>> No.4318804

no no, I installed quite a variety of modchips on PS2, and all of them would run PS1 in 480i, there was no popsloader or anything back then.

>> No.4318807

>Get a transcoder and go RGB.
yep im really close to just dropping +$80 on a transcoder right now

yeah I got a PS1 just for this reason 480i PS1 games dont feel right.

>> No.4318854
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1969 Zenith I'm working on

>> No.4318932
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What would you say is the value of my restored PVM 2530? I had it recapped and restored by a retired Sony PVM professional and I was able to track down a pair of APM speakers that are built for this model of PVM.

>> No.4318934
File: 26 KB, 421x351, 1-million.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4319014

Bored of it already?

>> No.4319020

Nope. I love it actually. I'm just curious.

>> No.4319048

Anything that can be done about a WEGA with incredibly fucked up geometry that I can't correct no matter how much I try fucking with the service menu? I want to kill myself.

>> No.4319059

Do WEGA still have potentiometers inside? You could alway check inside (with the help of your service manual of course).

>> No.4319075

not going to risk electrocuting myself over a shitty TV

>> No.4319081
File: 8 KB, 300x225, $_35.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Too dumb to make your own cables or even solder a little?
You're a disgrace to the Yuro RGB master race.

>> No.4319084

>consumer black Trinitron CRT
>pop in PlayStation RGB SCART cable
>same cable works fine for both PS1 and PS2

>> No.4319095

>not going to risk electrocuting myself over a shitty TV
Unless you have parkinson you wont. If you're just using a flat screwdriver to rotate potentiometers the whole thing won't randomly zap thunder beams at you.
But anyway, I don't know if those WEGA actually have any potentiometers inside.

>> No.4319128

>>same cable works fine for both PS1 and PS2
Not necessarily, PS1 needs 200uF capacitors in the SCART as they are not built into the system like the PS2

>> No.4319134

Mine is modchipped, would it still be a problem?

>> No.4319143

idk my 2730 cost $40

>> No.4319173

There aren't any, deflection is all controlled digitally, settings are done through the service menu or serial/I2C to a PC.

>> No.4319393

So suicide is my only option?

>> No.4319412

Fiddle with the service menu first, then consider sudoku.

>> No.4319575

I want to fully recap an Ikegami TM20-17r I bought on the cheap recently, but I can't find any sort of service manual for it. Would I be fine just replacing each cap with something rated for the same capacitance and voltage? Is there anything else I should be looking out for?

>> No.4319847
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$10 should i get it?

>> No.4319993

yes senpai

>> No.4320028

Take $3.00, bring them a bottle of windex and call it even

>> No.4320029

It's fucking outside? Should be free. Just drive by and take it

>> No.4320047

no some guy near me is selling it
kek maybe ill give this a shot

>> No.4320169

Is there a difference between using RGB SCART into a SCART to component transcoder as opposed to just using component cables for a PS2?

>> No.4320189

Pretty marginally. RGB and YPbPr Component are mathematically supposed to be equivalent video signals, just in different color spaces. They provide near identical video in most cases, so if there are any differences, they're probably subtle or unnoticeable side by side. Component is technically better because it supports 480p up to 1080i I suppose.

However I have heard the Wii's RGB is superior to the Component.

>> No.4320208

Will end up passing on this as it does not have S-Video ports. Nice little tv nonetheless

>> No.4320219
File: 35 KB, 400x400, arcade-slg-scart.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What would happen if you ran a Scart scanline generator on a 15hz CRT?

>> No.4320228

well I've had 2030s come my way for $75 or less.
and my 2950Q ran me around $150.

probably in the $100-125 neighborhood.

>> No.4320254

Every second line would be blanked/dimmed, just like it would on a higher res input. Would look like ass for most games.

>> No.4320330


those are awesome, there is something about tube televisions that I find very fascinating

I personally restore vintage TV except in Europe


>> No.4320397

does anyone know of a decent snes svideo cable? I see tons on ebay but not sure which would be good.

>> No.4320439

Only do the electrolytics first of course, but same capacitance value, and same or higher voltage tolerance.

>> No.4320575

those trinis are super cute and probably have component iirc. go for it.

>> No.4320940

do those speakers fold away

>> No.4321184

Yes they do.

>> No.4321192


>> No.4321229

Remind me that I'm still waiting for the ones I bought for my kx27 to arrive. They're not the APM ones though.

>> No.4321393


>> No.4321401

Close, SS-X1A.

>> No.4321923

Would the BKM-129X expansion slot for a Sony PVM 9L3 be worth it considering these expansion slots sell for upwards of £90?

>> No.4321952

I just bought my first professional monitor, a Panasonic BT-1390YN. Driving 10 hours to get it this weekend because it's the closest I could find. (I think I have a mental illness.)

Does anyone have any experience with these Panasonic BT series monitors? I know that they use shadow mask, instead of aperture grilles, but they're also 750 lines at about the price you'd pay for a 600 line PVM.

>> No.4322068
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playing link to the past for the first time and it feels good


>> No.4322120

What kind if fucked up resolution are are you playing at? Disgusting scaling. If you’re going to butcher the game, don’t bother playing at all, underage.

>> No.4322130

It's a PC monitor, so he's either emulating or using some kind of a scaler.

Either way, it looks bad,

>> No.4322220

Those are valves mate

>> No.4322280

Check for burn in, make sure you have something to test the rgb inputs as well. I have a bt 1310 that I'm trying to get working at the moment

>> No.4322336

Theres a seller on ebay called gamesnow. He(?) is the only one selling properly grounded svideo cables other than official nintendo cables. Ive bought gam3gear svids cables (chink shit but it comes in a box) and a set from gamesnow. The chink one is not grounded but it puts out an svideo signal, go figure. There is a checkerboarding but its not that noticeable on a crt. Gamesnow's svideo is grounded and fixes the checkerboarding issue. Both cables sharpen the image and have better color composite. They also fix rainbowing noticeable in white lines. Like the mission start on snes starfox when the arwings are being launched.

So it comes down to whether an extra 20 bucks over the chink cables for no checkerboarding is worth it to you.

>> No.4322343

>have better color than composite

>> No.4322346

It was owned by a fellow enthusiast, luckily. I had him send me some pics of the 240p test suite on it, and the geometry looks good and I didn't notice any burn in. I didn't think to bring a console with me to test it myself, but I'll pack my Wii with some RCA BNC adapters. (This particular model supports both RGB and Component)

I notice the screen seems to have a more extreme curvature than the PVM's I've seen. Is that typical of Panasonic's professional monitors?

Hope you can get that thing working!

>> No.4322353

yeah I thought it looked weird, was doing it at 240p
really should make a retroarch config

>> No.4322538

Note SNES games usually use 224 pixels vertically, not the full 240.

>> No.4322593

nixies are basically just fancy neon lights, not thermionic valves.

>> No.4322703

for NES and SNES I set a custom resolution of 2048x240, then use the tvout-tweaks shader in Retroarch, looks good.

>> No.4323075
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I did it VEER! I fell for the BVM meme!

>> No.4323132

Was anyone here successful at doing this?


It'd be nice not to have to use some ancient drivers or a separate installation of Windows for this.

>> No.4323389
File: 50 KB, 773x645, 1488772304456.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>one day your favorite crt will burn out
>no replacement parts
>rgb CRTs are becoming rarer
>once it's dead it's dead

>> No.4323391


Everything dies, anon. This is why the collector mindset is stupid. Just enjoy the things you have while they're there.

>> No.4323405

>no replacement parts

With the rise of at home machining you can have just about anything you could need made.

>> No.4323438
File: 93 KB, 1024x802, Pvm20l2mdLG.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is Potrero Hill or Hunter's point a good place to find one of these tvs? I feel like those places have a lotta new station buildings. bay area anons help

>> No.4323446

Hope you get hit by niggas.

>> No.4323449

Well that's not nice.

>> No.4323453

feel free to make us new cathode ray tubes

>> No.4323457

I will in 20 years.

>> No.4323458

Nigga shit, bitch.

>> No.4323480

How about you get the fuck out of here, you retard?

>> No.4323481

I thought you people were supposed to be welcoming?

>> No.4323483

Not to Californians

>> No.4323484
File: 80 KB, 612x440, SONY-GVM-2020-GRAPHIC-VIDEO-MONITOR-B79-N1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Call around and ask. AV companies also have old monitors sometimes. I mostly look on craigslist but finding a cheap one under $100 is rare. I still regret passing up a gvm 2020 for $150. I would actually sell you my pvm 14m4u but it needs repairs since the color goes to solid green after warming up. Basically you have to wait it out but keep looking and you will find something. back even 5 years ago and nobody gave a fuck about crts. But now people realize they are valuable to collectors so price is going up.

>> No.4323489

You don't deserve no Hitler's canoe.

>> No.4323492

Yeah so fuck off ya Nu-Male bastard.

>> No.4323494

And take your Nazi lovin' ass with you.

>> No.4323495

I live over 3,000 miles from san fransisco, and a bay-area hipster has no place calling anyone else a 'nu-male'.

>> No.4323501
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Im also in CA and try to be nice but people walk all over me. There is a lot of rude crazy liberals here and competition. Not just for crts but video games in general have dried up as well. I used to find great deals all the time 5-10 years ago. You need a lot of money to live here and shit is getting worse. Im actually trying to move before god smites this shithole or the earthquake sinks us and I lose all my crts and games.

>> No.4323502

Because you're one of them.

>> No.4323504

but i just wear t shirt and jeans no fancy hipster stuff and a sweater regular hoodie sweater zipper

>> No.4323505

>Not just for crts but video games in general have dried up as well.
whaddya mean

>> No.4323509

It's geographically impossible for me to be a bay-area hipster
you could live in manhattan for the same price, shit's insane on the left coast.
sounds pretty hip to me. /vr/ would probably consider me an east coast hipster, but I don't have gauges or ride a bike. also I'm almost 30 so it's not like I'm cool or anything,

>> No.4323517
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no i only try to wear cute boy clothes im only 5'6

>> No.4323526

:3 I'm 5'8" so I feel you. I have to dress like a square for work, but some of my clients have sweet Ikegamis they still use, so I gotta be on my game

>> No.4323643

Looks like Integer scaling is off. RA cores look fucking terrible without it on.

>> No.4323729

This. If my pvm ever pops ill have a nice flat trinitron to fall back on. When that pops too i guess i look into scalers. Or fuck it and let the tv do its thing.

>> No.4323741

Crts have zero lag right?

So what would be acceptable lag for a modern tv. My lg has 16ms in game mode after doing a lag calibration in guitar hero (wii). Is this high? I brought the calibration down to 0ms correction to see what it would be like to play with 16ms of lag. Its playable but not fun since you KNOW you hit that one notw dead on.

>> No.4323954

Nothing has zero lag, but non scaling SD CRTs can come pretty close, usually under a millisecond.

16ms is a single frame, which is pretty good for a modern TV, even better than most PC monitors.

>> No.4323959

Yep, looks like it's stretching 224 -> 240.

>> No.4323965
File: 192 KB, 1200x901, bob.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Some of you guys are alright.

Don't go to Brooklyn Video Games tomorrow.

>> No.4324001

Not yet, but soon.

Found it at a dump. Turned it on and just as the screen lit up it started arcing somewhere on the chassis. I got lots of help from an enthusiast forum and it was narrowed down to a hole in the plastic HV rectifier cup. I'm waiting on a replacement, then I'll hopefully be set.

Nobody really gives a snot about RF-only sets here, but they're fun. It's cool having a TV made entirely with American parts, in a facility 60 miles away in Chicago.

>> No.4324020
File: 671 KB, 1158x2048, zygarde.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Any links to the science, and inner workings of the Cathode Ray tube? Also is it possible to somehow play a new gen system like the Switch on a CRT?

>> No.4324028

Hmmm you dont say. I have a 7ms computer monitor and i thought that was pretty average. I wonder if it might be worth it trying tonget retro to work on that instead of a tv.

>> No.4324043

Yeah, you can get an HDMI to VGA adapter for either a CRT monitor or HDCRT television. Don't bother trying on a standard def CRT TV, it will look like shit. The best thing out there is HDFURY for what you want, but there are walmart tier solutions too.
You are a human being and will not ever notice a 6ms difference, and that's not really a bad thing. Input lag only matters if there is a ton of it (2 to 3 or more frames) or you are trying to play competitively. OSSC is your best option if you want to use a computer monitor with low latency, so ask yourself if that's worth $200.

>> No.4324045

7ms for a computer monitor would usually be referring to response time, which isn't really related to input lag.

>> No.4324049

For a PC CRT monitor, HDMI to VGA. For HD consumer CRT, HDMI to DVI, VGA or component depending on what the TV has available. For HD professional monitor, HDMI to HD SDI.

>> No.4324054

this article looks pretty sensible https://www.bit-tech.net/reviews/tech/how_crt_and_lcd_monitors_work/1/

>> No.4324067
File: 87 KB, 1080x835, IMG_20171012_023848_997.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I finally got the supplies needed to build an adapter for my Sony TV with the weird 34 pin connector for analog RGB. The difference between this and composite blew me away. Photo isn't the best though.

>> No.4324091

What's the best way to stream from a PVM to a X-Capture 1?

A distribution amplifier? or do I have to use a Sync Strike? Such as this:

PVM -> RGB OUT -> Sync Strike -> X-Capture 1

>> No.4324104

Looks like sync strike is needed, amplifier is not.

>> No.4324109

So pretty much there's no other way to do it other than a sync strike?

I was wondering if I could do it with a distribution amp instead, but I assume I couldn't use RGB then?

>> No.4324124

>OSSC is your best option if you want to use a computer monitor with low latency, so ask yourself if that's worth $200.

Honestly half of this hobby is all about the gadgets and shit. I already played games as a kid and now im really curious of the best i can get out of my old console collection visually. But yeah the ossc is steep but not framemister steep. Last time i checked they're not taking pre orders and they sell out faster than nes classics. It could be worth it but im not into pre ordering shit or constantly checking emails for "GET EM WHILE THEY'RE HOT" alerts. Ill just make do with whats redily avaliable. Which probably means something from micom soft.

Speaking of which, any news of them purring out a new scaler? The xrgb mini had been out for awhile now.

Derp ya thats grey to grey. But now im really curious to know how much input lag it really has now.

>> No.4324125

What game

>> No.4324128
File: 41 KB, 500x320, 64061-Snatcher_(U)-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Agreed, I think 90% of this is actually finding the gear, the equipment, doing the research, and getting it to work, rather than actually playing the silly game themselves.

>> No.4324140

Ha i thought i was alone in that reguard.

Its definitely an acquired taste. Ive got a buch of friends that like retro but they tend to be happy with out of the box video quality. Lucky bastards.

>> No.4324141

I ordered mine and it arrived in 3 months to the day. Not the greatest I guess, but I don't regret buying it.
>which probably means something from micomsoft
These are two different products with very different trade-offs.

>> No.4324146

Famicom Tantei Club Part II: Ushiro ni Tatsu Shōjo

It's a text based adventure game where you play as a detective. It's alot of fun and very visually appealing. The music also makes it worth while.

>> No.4324153
File: 2.03 MB, 1200x840, tumblr_ovlxet3a9p1vi6mhmo1_1280.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I really want to play this CRT style

>> No.4324154

no way, the hacker mentality applies to this hobby as well. What's your current setup / battlestation look like?

>> No.4324159

Yeah and i like that its readily avaliable and would be willing to deal with its querks over the ossc

>> No.4324160

Don't see how a distribution amplifier is any way helpful for what you're doing, you already have the correct levels and termination.

>> No.4324170

you're not missing much

>> No.4324178

I more so meant if I don’t have a sync strike, can I instead use a splitter/distribution amp?

Like any alternatives to the sync strike?

>> No.4324250

>magnetic anodes
errr, no. Not a very good article on the details, though as a beginners two-sentence overview you could probably find two correct sentences in there.

>> No.4324253

Was the GVM you passed on one of those NOS one's in your pic from eBay? Cos that seller turned out to be dodgy as all fuck, didn't he?

>> No.4324274

no gvm was used. They actually had 2 gvms and some pvms but I passed. Whoever got them was lucky. I probably should have posted about the ad here but I usually dont if I change my mind.

>> No.4324279
File: 1.88 MB, 3264x2448, 20170904_002045.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

No pic because tiny poorly lit room. But have a poorly captured scren

I currently have most of my consoles connected to a 13in pvm via the best cables that could of bought in the U.S. during their life span. So that nes via composite, snes and n64 via svideo, and a ps2 playing host as a ps1 via component. Im still waiting on a comp/svideo switcher for the snes and n64 from goodwill but everything else is ready to go without having to swap cables. As for 480p and up i reluctanly connected the wii (as a gamecube alternative) and og xbox to the 1080p lg tv i mentioned earlier. Both via component. As much as i love fzero gx on a pvm, i enjoy 16:9 over 4:3. As for the xbox i dont think it belongs on something that cant do 480p natively.

>> No.4324281
File: 180 KB, 1679x1049, Capture.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

TY for the new desktop image, OP

>> No.4324289
File: 380 KB, 600x600, d74.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

w... why anon

>> No.4324351

Any display shenanigans between PS1 and PS1 Slim? I want to play FFT with the best quality possible

>> No.4324579

Anyone know what AGC ON/OFF means on a trinitron?

>> No.4324589

I think it's do do with tuner/RF calibration? But that's as much as i'm willing to guess.

>> No.4324601

yeah OSSC is meme vaporware that doesn't work right with the Super Famicom, and Micomsoft's offerings are historically the best on the market with years of experience.

>> No.4324634
File: 2.52 MB, 5081x3395, DSC06147ARWs sh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


I gotchu

>> No.4324649

It stands for Advanced Gay Control.

Only activate if your current Gay Control is insufficient as it will slightly degrade image clarity.

>> No.4325026

ps1 slim is said to have better composite output, but i think they are the same for rgb

>> No.4325096

it's basically a particle accelerator blasting electrons towards your face.

>> No.4325432
File: 1.81 MB, 2176x1567, 1506443940542.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

wadanohara on CRT

>> No.4325436
File: 876 KB, 5120x3840, Wada.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

the image itself

>> No.4325554
File: 1.78 MB, 4032x2268, 20171013_130529.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Finally got Launchbox all set up to boot games to my CRT!

>> No.4325562
File: 1.72 MB, 2880x2160, IMG_20170928_142815.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sanyo DS32424. I use it as my main TV, but finally got around to setting up the NES a few weeks ago.

Wife has a bunch of retro consoles and games, but they're in storage down in Arizona, so...you know.

>> No.4325572

That's really cool
nice kitty, and nice living room too

>> No.4325742
File: 214 KB, 1920x1200, 1420154501582.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

verrry nice, can you do me a favor? Can you take the same image, but at night, with the TV and "fireplace" on? Must be comfy as fuck

>> No.4325790

Looks neat. How are you emulating that? Snes flash cart?

I just tried getting a gba version to boot with a translation patch but no dice. Any way you

>> No.4326151

I'm using an SD2SNES with a super famicom. The super famicom rom should work fine in an emulator. If you search for it, it should be available for download with the translation already applied.

>> No.4326180
File: 1.01 MB, 2880x2160, IMG_20171010_221237.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have this from the other night, watching TV. Apologies for the grainy picture, but my phone is ancient and doesn't do well in low-light.

>> No.4326228

If a Sony Trinitron has a cuboid shape, removable external speakers, and indented handles like a PVM, is it definitely a PVM? Looking at one right now but no model info available.

>> No.4326308

Thanks I'll look into it

>> No.4326357

pics, genius.

>> No.4326373

Sorry friend I have no pic, because I'm not talking about a specific unit. I just wanted to know if there were exceptions. I want to be able to spot them better.

>> No.4326558

Ok, well, google pics of PVM-2530, which has a cube frame around it, and can have external speakers. Then google a profeel 27KXPS1, which has no frame but does have external speakers of a different sort. Then a PVM-20M4U, which requires no frame because it's already a block, and does not ever have external speakers attached. The last set is also the only one with indented handles. All those are high-end Trinitrons, and cover the form factor of pretty much 99% of the pro gear you'll find, though remember some of the later Sony consumer sets are nice too.

>> No.4326624

Yeah it's either a PVM, BVM, GVM or a Profeel. Either way if it's made to mount in a rack it's probably a good monitor, get it.

>> No.4327104

Anyone has Extron composite/S-Video to RGB convertors here? Any experience with them? I'd like to get one for consoles I have but can't/won't mod.

>> No.4327107

what to use to clean CRT screens?

>> No.4327141

How stark is the difference between a 600tvl and 800tvl set for 240p stuff? I've been using a 600tvl PVM but may be switching to an 800tvl model and now I'm worried the scanlines will be stupid thick.

>> No.4327147

Salty Seamen by Dick Johnson company

>> No.4327212

Oh, hi Kane. I suspected I wasn't the only one who double posted.

TVL refers to the phosphors per line, so it doesn't have a direct effect on the scanlines but the more phosphors there are the darker each individual one can be to produce the same brightness so darker phosphors mean less bloom means thicker black lines. At 800 or 900 it looks like a CRT filter from your average emulator.

>> No.4327310

>At 800 or 900 it looks like a CRT filter from your average emulator.

>people spend considerable amounts of money to make their games look like played in an emulator with the cheapest "CRT scanline effect" applied

that's it, I'm out. There is no way I could possibly defend this.

>> No.4327462

>like an emulator
That's not what I'm looking for personally. I want to see things the way the artist drew it, rendered in the ideal of the medium it was designed for. At some point the black lines become distracting; to me they're just there to keep everything from looking like a confusing square mess. FFVI's character sprites look really ugly on an LCD.

>> No.4327668
File: 132 KB, 960x942, 22406156_1899473560068065_9111341990732629954_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


He's being a little dramatic anon. Here's a decent pic comparison

>> No.4327671

Thanks it's been a process setting up but it's been fun!

>> No.4327940
File: 956 KB, 1989x543, CA82497B-B358-4075-B3D8-F278AE82B828.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Imagine being so autistic that you believe there’s a difference between a 1 chip and 2 chip SNES.

>> No.4327983

I can tell the difference but if I was forced to play on a less than ideal setup I wouldn't cry about it.

>> No.4327984

The claim is that there's a low pass filter in 2chips that's not there in 1chips.
Dunno whether the path in question is inside an IC in the 1chip or not, but if it isn't someone can check if it's true.

>> No.4328293

I only notice things like that when i pause a game and walk up to my tv. Its nice to see sharp pixies but when im playing i cant really see the difference.

This entire hobby is equivalent to audiophiles and their autism. Whats good enough for most people is utter trash for others.

>> No.4328308

idk. the middle one looks the best to me.

>> No.4328325

Same, anon.

1chip has too much contrast if you ask me. Like it's had a heavy-handed unsharp mask operation applied.

>> No.4328342

More like he's being a prima donna.

>> No.4328540
File: 283 KB, 1500x1500, 817U3xNhZXL._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How good are digital to analog video converters like pic related? I want to connect my pc to my crt to emulate snes/gba/n64/gamecube games but if they add more that 2 frames of latency then I probably won't bother.

tv has rca, svideo, and component

>> No.4328542

I dunno man, sure the image is razor-sharp on 800 TVL and the scanlines are THICC, but I don't remember my games (or anyone else's) ever looking like that at all.

At that point, you might as well just skip the hundreds of dollars for your video setup and emulate, really.

>> No.4328553

Non scaling ones won't add any significant latency. If you were hoping to use it for retro games it's not going to be easy, the problem is convincing your video card to put out 240p/480i HDMI without any line doubling, if you give higher resolutions you'll get higher resolution YPbPr out, which regular 15kHz SD TVs can't handle.

>> No.4328567

So it should work fine assuming I am able to output the correct resolutions? I have an nvidia card and I know how to use custom resolutions, is there anything else required beyond creating custom resolutions for 240p and 480i?

>> No.4328585

Without custom drivers your card will linedouble any output below ~31kHz horizontal, not pssible as far as I know for nvidia cards, easiest to do it with are older ATI/some AMD ones. And in that case it's easier to go from VGA RGBHV to YPbPr instead of via non standard HDMI.

>> No.4328597

Do capture cards, rigged appropriately, capture the scanlines and all of a crt?

>> No.4328609

I see. I'm not very familiar with RGBHV, does that also require an external device for signal conversion?

>> No.4328634

RGBHV is the standard kind of signal VGA uses, you'd then need what's a transcoder to convert that to YPbPr without changing resolution, may need a sync combiner inbetween if the transcoder uses RGB with separate sync such like SCART uses.

The scanlines are an artifact of the display, not inherently part of the video. If capturing correctly your card shouldn't see them, you can add it in through your video software if you want.

>> No.4328635

Going to try to find a nice sub-15" in the wild again today lads

>> No.4329049
File: 1.16 MB, 1024x1820, 20170929_213404_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yes. It's not extremely difficult to adapt though, you can buy a VGA>YPbPr transcoder. Or do it the manly man way.

>> No.4329292

Is DVI good for old game emulation?

>> No.4329607


The big draw of playing games on native hardware isn't the scanlines, it's the lag of input lag, proper scrolling, no frame skips, nu emulator quirks etc

The retro look is just a bonus if you're into that sort of thing

>> No.4329653


>> No.4329674

DVI-I = both

>> No.4329760

Alright cause these nerds over at >>>/g/62917096 were recommending this guy VGA for emulating on his CRT and I knew that was wrong...too late now since the thread's closed rip :/

>> No.4330567

jeebus, every single post in that thread is retarded. It's like you have to start grading how retarded every post is so you can tell them apart.

>> No.4330687

With DIY shielded cables, should I disconnect outer shield on console side or TV side?

>> No.4330750

So I fucked up like a year ago and I broke the AV cable tips inside the things they plug into, is there any way to get them out?

>> No.4330771

Any real difference in the quality of Sony PVM models? Namely, 40 and L.

>> No.4330792

Unsure if VR or not, but would Dreamcast be better played on a CRT or HDTV? Would be using VGA to component or VGA to HDMI.

>> No.4330834

Got pics of what broke?

Conventionally outer shield should be connected to chassis at source end only. Coax outer should be connected at both ends.

There are differences, which particular models are you looking at?

Supports native 480p, but with few games natively doing widescreen, I'd go with either a PC CRT or a modern flat panel.

>> No.4330837

I don't have anything to take pics right now but I took it apart and I think they may have fell out on their own not sure though.

>> No.4331203

Get a decent VGA cable and a cheap VGA to HDMI converter. I have one of those cheap white box ones and it's not like those SCART to HDMI converters were things are over sharpened. The only problem is that blacks are a little bit crushed. But that's the cheapest method for getting a a fantastic DC picture on a hdtv.

If you have a PVM or a crt with RGB then get the TORO box from the behar bros. It's costly, but worth it.

>> No.4331310

Thanks. I know asking about DC was pushing it already, but I figured I'd ask this here as well to really push it.

If I want to play OG Xbox games, am I fine with my OG Xbox hooked up via component or would I be better off going with 360/xbone and HD?

>> No.4331447

360/Xbone if the games are compatible, and in the case of the 360, can deal with the wonky emulation for some titles. Xbone will be next level once OG Xbox games become backwards compatible. Component on an original Xbox is nice if you've got games you couldn't play otherwise though. 480p really is 'how it was intended', so CRTs aren't a must.

>> No.4331695

I just ordered a Framemeister with express shipping from Solaris today. It was a big investment but still cheaper than getting a decent sized PVM, at least where I live. I have a few Trinitron TVs that I greatly adore but sadly I have absolutely no space to have one set up right now so they're all in storage, hence why I ordered the Framemeister.

I am not expecting the same experience as a CRT but if it looks as good as the videos I've seen on Youtube, it will hopefully be a worthwhile investment. I just wish the damn thing was costing me about $200 less but from what I understand you get what you pay for.

>> No.4331703

Just plug your fucking RF switch into the coax on an HDTV

>> No.4331712

Can I have this meme? :^)

>> No.4331784

>I just wish the damn thing was costing me about $200 less

>> No.4331816

No guarantee that OSSC will actually work on my TV, and if I have to buy another device to make it work then it might end up costing almost as much as a FrameMeister.

I also forgot to mention the other big reason I bought a Framemeister is because my LCD TV doesn't work with my RGB modded NES or my SNES. Since the legacy support on it is spotty at best, I'd rather spend a few bucks more than take chances on a line doubler.

>> No.4331853
File: 78 KB, 270x1200, Retr Video.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

sure senpai

>> No.4331910

is there something about MMAC on gamecube that I'm not aware of

>> No.4331929
File: 37 KB, 256x256, prairie wind.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm fucking dumb

can anyone spoon feed me on how to setup super-wide retroarch resolutions with the tvout-tweaks, image-adjustment, and interlacing shaders?

even if you could just link me to the shader files, as the ones I'm getting from the online updater aren't congruent with what I'm reading online. I'm trying to run at 3840x480, with interlacing, to get the best results from my snes games.

here's the template I'm using:

would really appreciate any help with this one

>> No.4331948
File: 234 KB, 500x377, daria fire.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>B jumps
>A shoots

>> No.4331968

I think he might want to actually purchase a product, not sign up for a mailing list.

>> No.4331971

Hi, /crt/

Are CRT projectors overall just as good, better or worse than CRT monitors? I'm thinking of picking one up

Which models are the best?

>> No.4332012
File: 14 KB, 605x340, Trinitron.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A guy in my neighborhood is offering this Sony Trinitron with Dolby Surround boxes. I guess it has RGB since I live in euroland. Should I get it?

>> No.4332015

Holy shit that guy looks so sad with his pot belly and ikea furniture.

>> No.4332018
File: 2.00 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_9329.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

for anyone who is considering brands, i use a 2004 Philips that hasnt let me down yet. has svideo, compositie, and component video support as well as audio out

>> No.4332020

How can you play games on your printer?

>> No.4332021

Forgot to add, it's 27".

>> No.4332023

You can potentially get a fantastic picture out of a CRT projector, but be prepared to work for it. I would recommend heading over to AVSForum and reading up about them; personally, I'm not sure they're worth the trouble, particularly when compared to a nice late model Trinitron.

>> No.4332045

Do you live with a girl? That room looks very familiar.

>> No.4332081

Owning a high-end Sony G90, I personally feel like the best CRT projectors (which are generally the only worthwhile ones to seek out these days) are total overkill for videogames, and are much more suited for movies and TV. That being said, don't let anyone stop you from picking up a smaller, cheaper unit if you come across one. That is, if it works, the price is right, and the tubes aren't roasted to hell. As far as rankings go: http://www.curtpalme.com/Projector_Rankings.shtm

>> No.4332139

Holy shit is about standard pricing? I found a dude a few hours away selling a 2950Q for $500 that has a crack on the casing

>> No.4332214

nvm I figured it out

>> No.4332220
File: 3.36 MB, 4048x3036, IMG_20170919_223642.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Nice amp senpai. Need to get your speakers off the ground and at ear level though.

>> No.4332274

Is your SNES painted black? What the fuck

>> No.4332285

>want to actually purchase a product, not sign up for a mailing list.
Well these are on pre-order now with "this Christmas" shipping date

>> No.4332382

Yeah I figured they'd require a good amount of work to adjust/fine tune to get a good picture out of. I am going to do more research on them, of course. I already have a PVM-20M4U, so if they don't seem to be worth the trouble, no biggie.

Aside from gaming (I was interested in using a CRT projector during Smash tournaments with friends) I'd also use it to watch movies/series that only have DVD releases.

I'm scoping one out for ~$200[\spoiler] with supposedly low hours of use. The seller doesn't mention the model number of the projector anywhere in the listing and hasn't contacted me back with it yet, but I suspect it to be part of the Sony VPH-10XX line.
If this isn't a VPH-1020 or VPH-1031, is this a reasonable price?

BTW thanks for the link!

>> No.4332501

I'm hoping some aftermarket for crts/crt parts will open up along with this new retro gaming aftermarket

Most likely won't happen though :(
Stupid fucking normies...

>> No.4332510

>Stupid fucking normies...

>> No.4332572

I live alone. maybe you've seen another picture of my setup with people in the image lol

>> No.4332691
File: 87 KB, 500x342, OSSCscanlines4KTVvsPVM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

They will likely be very expensive if it happens. I don't deny the possibility that CRTs will go back into manufacture at some point, but on average the market for specialized retro game accessories is very small-- possibly in the thousands. This isn't the 90s where CRTs were a huge market that pushed millions of units every year.

New CRTs will appear on the market when the ones out in the wild now have gotten so expensive that a new CRT can undercut them in price and still be profitable. In other words, prices on CRTs are going to keep getting worse and might never get better even if new ones appear on the market.

The reason the Framemeister costs >$300 is in part because it's a niche product for a niche market, and it has a significantly broader appeal than a new CRT would. CRTs are huge, heavy, and are seen by the vast majority of potential customers as a technological dead end. Granted the same could be said of vinyl records before the comeback, but the difference is that new music can be pressed into vinyl cheaply, while there are very few games coming out that can take advantage of CRTs, let alone in a way that most people would agree looks better than an LCD screen.

Scaler boxes on the other hand are forward-looking-- something that lets you play an old game on a new, modern TV. It's something small and convenient that you can easily stash away under your TV, while with a CRT, fitting one into your home can be a nightmare.

The larger issue is that retro gaming on real hardware is getting more expensive because we are talking about a finite resource and growing demand. Most people demanding new CRTs want them because they are frustrated at the high prices of PVMs, but sadly the situation probably isn't going to get better. At some point you will have to decide which to invest in-- a high quality scaler, or a PVM. We are already at the point where a 20" PVM shipped costs significantly more than a Framemeister, so decide soon.

>> No.4332696

>while there are very few games coming out that can take advantage of CRTs, let alone in a way that most people would agree looks better than an LCD screen
They could probably try to appeal to FPS gamers who would like to haze 144Hz+ refresh rate, high resolution, good colors/black level and no backlight bleeding that most new IPS monitors have.

>> No.4332698

Again though, that is a niche market-- you are talking about people who are in the absolute highest rung of play where even the slightest bit of lag or interference can affect their performance. Most people who play FPS will never get good enough for that to make a difference, just like with speed running and competitive smash.

Most modern gamers are more interested in seeing improvements to modern screen tech and don't want to look back. And I can't stress enough how in love most people are with light, flat screens that they can push up against a wall. The largeness and weight of CRTs always made it difficult to design furniture around, and LCDs solved that probelm.

You would have an easier time convincing a TV company to make an LCD screen with built-in RGB analog inputs and a good 240p upscaler than you would be trying to convince them to make new CRTs. The speed running, pro Smash, and retro gaming communities combined are not enough to have gotten their attention to resurrect CRT tech, because it's just so wildly impractical in the modern age. Adding a few pro FPS players to that mix isn't going to make any significant difference.

>> No.4332805

If normies were on board and didn't associate CRTs with autism then gaming on CRT wouldn't be such a niche market, which is one of the problems highlighted by >>4332691

>> No.4332820
File: 3.79 MB, 4608x2592, IMG_20171015_073302884[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Dumping some photos I took of my latest pickup, a Panasonic BT-1390YN. I have a soft spot for high quality shadow mask sets, because they remind me of old arcade monitors and the TV's I played on growing up.

750+ lines, nice curvature, and pretty great geometry (the tilt is a bit off and I can't seem to adjust it in the service menu, but it's hardly even noticeable.

>> No.4332825
File: 3.28 MB, 3226x1815, IMG_20171015_073317285_HDR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Streets of Rage 2. Wii VC via component in 240p. 1/3

>> No.4332829
File: 3.21 MB, 3226x1815, IMG_20171015_073345773[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4332832
File: 2.91 MB, 3226x1815, IMG_20171015_073350619_HDR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4332837
File: 2.54 MB, 1844x1037, IMG_20171015_0733506191_HDR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Kirby Super Star on SNES via SCART to RGB BNC. 1/2

>> No.4332839
File: 3.89 MB, 3226x1815, IMG_20171015_073807209[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4332840
File: 3.22 MB, 3226x1815, IMG_20171015_073945973_HDR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Phantasy Star IV. Model 1 Genesis via SCART to RGB BNC. 1/2

>> No.4332843
File: 3.04 MB, 2420x1362, IMG_20171015_073950343_HDR[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


I plan on taking some more pictures this week when I've got some time to sit down and enjoy some games for real. I was traveling this weekend so I didn't get as many pictures as I wanted.

>> No.4332845

>CMON monitor
>not posting some Terry Bogard on it

>> No.4332848
File: 1.55 MB, 1984x1488, IMG_20171017_222107.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sony Trinitron
Some shitty generic Wii component cables

>> No.4332849

Oh my god, it didn't even occur to me. I'm going to make it happen.

>> No.4332852


>> No.4333141

Are you in a time warp where it's the 90's forever?

>> No.4333268

What's all that babby shit in your window, anon?

>> No.4333279
File: 66 KB, 500x330, B&W CRT.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Did black and white TVs ever come with composite inputs or did they only have RF?
I'm talking about the portable cheapo 90s ones as well as household 60s-70s units.

I want to pick up a B&W CRT but I'm not sure if I should hold off until I find one with a composite jack.

>> No.4333314

I would assume most have RF, however there are plenty of tiny security monitors that are monochrome that have composite, via BNC connection.


>> No.4333381
File: 134 KB, 800x600, small.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

You can occasionally find those portable 5" B&W sets from the 90s and early 2000s with composite ins, but the vast, vast majority are RF only. Pic related. As >>4333314 said, B&W security monitors are typically Composite-over-BNC only, but they usually don't have sound. Household units from the 60s-80s, particularly B&W sets are basically guaranteed to be RF only, so basically, if you find a nice set you want just grab it and use a composite to RF converter if needed.

>> No.4333460

Sup. I got a Panasonic BT-M1950Y from a local TV station. When I press the power button the indicator goes on for a second and it makes a slight creaking noise, but nothing turns on. How fucked or retarded am I?

>> No.4333470

I should add that I don't have any video source to it (lack the proper cables) at the moment, so I'm not sure if that's why the screen doesn't turn on and I'm a dumbass.

>> No.4333480

>I don't have any video source to it
What is it supposed to show if you don't feed it anything?

>> No.4333482

I figure the screen would at least turn on like any old consumer set.

>> No.4333487

Can you tell a apart a black screen from a turned off screen of a monitor you have never used before?

>> No.4333493

You're not wrong. Never mind me then. I'll see what happens when I get the cables and hook something up.

>> No.4333770

If it can help, I can't tell if my PVM are turned on or off if there is no source, apart from checking the power button.
They make next to no noise, don't show any visible static or whatever when they're on, so your monitor is (probably) fine

>> No.4333795

Some monitors have calibration signals built-in. Check your monitor's manual to see if yours has them.

>> No.4333820

Can't seem to find such a thing in the manual.

I suppose the power indicator just shuts off because it detects no input? I won't be able to find out for sure till I get my hands on those cables, but you've given me some hope, so thanks a lot.

>> No.4333890

>till I get my hands on those cables
You don't really need special cables if you just want to test it out. You can make the connection with a couple paper clips if you're so inclined, but you will probably need a mirror or something to see the screen while you are holding everything together in the back.

Like for instance if your monitor has BNC inputs and you only have consoles with composite video output on an RCA cable, you can just use a small piece of metal like a wire or a paperclip to connect the tip of the RCA plug to the inner connector of the BNC, and another one to connect the shield of the RCA cable to the outer connector of the BNC.

>> No.4333910

Is this 36 inch Trinitron good? It looks like an old model. I don't think it has super fine blah blah blah.

Do I really need a VGA or other odd input?

Model Sony KV-36FV1 WEGA


Search for stats here:


>> No.4333920

Has Component input which is pretty nice. Standard definition only, so no point in having VGA or anything like that. If you want RGB for native output from some older consoles can get a RGB SCART to component converter box.

As a flat screen trinitron, expect it to be heavy as fuck, 107kg, and probably won't have great geometry/focus/convergence particularly in the vertical direction, the older cylindrical face models are often better for that.

>> No.4333949

well it's only $40 for it, but I would need to beg several people to help lift a 230lbs tv.

I only intend to play the old nintendo and sega consoles on it. I'm not going to bother with a conversion box.

I'd have to visit in person and ask to play a video game on the damn thing before paying which is going to be awkward

>> No.4333972

Low hours doesn't mean there aren't bad burn-in patterns on the phosphor, and desu that price is a bit high for a machine that old. It doesn't sound like a particularly high-end model, either. Unless you have the chance to power it up (and pick it up) in person, I wouldn't recommend it. Shipping a CRT projector is stupid-expensive. It's kind of a pain in the ass, but you might want to wait and see what else pops up locally, and hopping on that. I got my G90 very cheap that way

>> No.4333981

Oh, and before I forget, waiting for a more recent model means you can have digital convergence, which is a godsend compared to analog convergence. What that means is you can line up the three images standing near the screen with a remote where you can see exactly what you're doing rather than adjusting a ton of pots that drift with a screwdriver.

>> No.4334068

I got a random one and it is pretty good. Just make sure it doesn't have composite and Svid, just Svid.

>> No.4334092

wtf is Konka?

>> No.4334209

I have a Panasonic BT-1390YN, which is a very similar monitor. When you turn it on, there should be green text from the OSD showing you which input it's on. You can also try pressing the menu button. Even without an input hooked up, it should still pop up the OSD.

Sounds like it's fucked to me :( Sad because that's probably a fantastic monitor.

>> No.4334391

tfw getting desperate enough for a PVM that I'm about to throw down $140 for a local PVM-14N6U.

>do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
on craigslist basically mean no haggling?

>> No.4334446
File: 7 KB, 250x250, degaussing coil.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I bought a degaussing coil off ebay.
Before I use it I want to ask some questions.

Does the TV have to be on when I degauss it?
What happens if the TV is off?
Will nearby (a meter or two) TVs be affected by the coil in addition to the TV I'm trying to fix?
Will the speakers beside my TV take on a magnetic charge from the coil and have messed up sound?
My PC is a couple meters away. Will the magnetic HDD in the PC be corrupted by the magnetic field?

>> No.4334545

>Does the TV have to be on when I degauss it?

>What happens if the TV is off?
you can't tell what you're doing.

>Will nearby (a meter or two) TVs be affected by the coil in addition to the TV I'm trying to fix?
depends on the coil's magnetic field strength.

>Will the speakers beside my TV take on a magnetic charge from the coil and have messed up sound?

>My PC is a couple meters away. Will the magnetic HDD in the PC be corrupted by the magnetic field?
highly unlikely.

>> No.4334707

no, it's legal text so that it's not legal to spam the fuck out of your email by stealing the email address.

I assume

>> No.4334798

Not really CRT, but are old 848x480 plasma display monitors any good ?
They usually have RGB/BNC inputs, as well as VGA and component.
If it can get sketchy for 240p as there will be upscaling, how about 480p content ?

>> No.4334803
File: 80 KB, 823x672, Capture1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How do I into custom resolutions? I want to set a profile for 240p but it won't let me for some reason. GPU is a 8400GS.

>> No.4334817
File: 2.26 MB, 3984x2988, 20171014_145001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Got the replacement and it works, but it's blurry as fuck. Apparently HV is too low. I don't have the space to keep this thing sadly so I'll be selling it off to a Zenith enthusiast.

>> No.4334826

Getting 240p out of a pc is a pain. s-video on graphics cards is hard set to 480i. That's it, no workarounds, 480i only. You can do 240p over VGA with crt_emudriver but that's only compatible with a few old Radeon cards. You'll have an easier time using a pc crt, you can output 240p over VGA at 120hz and get some really nice results.

>> No.4334881

Well, it's actually $170, shipping inlcuded. But I think you have the right idea. I'll wait to see if anything comes up locally.

There's also this working G90 listed for $200, but sadly is located across the country from me and of course the owner wants the buyer to go pick up that huge-as-all-fuck behemoth. Bummer, I would so cop it.

>> No.4334923
File: 1.49 MB, 2560x1920, 20171018_001758.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

damn that sucks

Also are there any snes9x scanline shaders that actually work at 480i?

>> No.4335124

I need to setup a 31khz pc monitor with a few different component game systems. What is the best method to do this? Probably a trans coder right?

Any help would be great, as I have a few cons I am helping with and I only have so many small CRTs, the rest are pc monitors.

>> No.4335141

Since I am guessing whoever knows the best answer to my first question, might as well see if they know this too.

I have a DP1.2 only device. Would those "converters" to vga add much lag? I can deal with 10-20ms, but this is for a demo of a GZdoom WAD and I wouldn't want more than that. Thanks to anyone that knows.

>> No.4335149

>he actually left the 90's
You got meme'd.

>> No.4335172


worked for me without having to use crtemudriver.

>> No.4335270

>What is the best method to do this? Probably a trans coder right?

A cis coder will do the job just fine, but I appreciate your concern.

>> No.4335381
File: 2.05 MB, 2048x1520, IMAG0504.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I know that the Pioneer and Hantarex 40" 4:3 ones running 640x480 are highly regarded. Not sure about the 16:9 ones though. The main problems are likely going to include:

>Motion smearing due to primitive image processing systems.
>Input lag for the same reasons. Probably worse than more modern displays even running at native resolution.
Horrible black levels (more like grey) on older panel technologies.

I have a Pioneer Kuro PDP-428XD 720p plasma (8th gen around 2007/2008) and it's great but anything older than that is a bit of a gamble tbqh.

>> No.4335409

Oh, forgot to mention dithering and banding.

You'll find a lot, if not all, of those early 2000s plasmas can only handle something around 5 bits per colour vs 8 or even 10 bits commonplace today. This means they are only capable of displaying a fraction of the number of colours of a more modern display. Think thousands rather than millions or billions! You'll get dithering and banding out the ass like I did on a circa-2001 Hitachi ALIS panel which is now thankfully gone from my life.

By all means give one a go if you can get it for free but don't expect amazing results.

>> No.4335571

the vast majority of TN panels are still 6bit

>> No.4335602

Hey guys, so I just set up a PVM 20m4u I had delivered and there's two discolored spots in the upper left and lower right corners (one green, the other magenta). Is there anyway to clear these up? I've degaussed a few times and turned the set on and off and no-go so far. The set is in the middle of the floor so there's no speakers or magnets nearby

>> No.4335681

It'll need time to settle down in its new orientation relative to the earth's magnetic field.

Give it a few days then look to explore other options if it doesn't clear up by then.

>> No.4335879

DP to VGA with no scaling gives practically zero lag.

>> No.4335905

Presuming you mean 240p/480i systems, you'd need a scaler, there are lots of options going from cheap but kinda shitty like a GBS 8200 up to the expensive Frameister or XRGB models.

If you mean the 480p+ consoles, a transcoder works fine.

>> No.4335913

>up to the expensive Frameister or XRGB mod
I hate to break it to you but those things are very much in the "budget" camp when it comes to video scalers.

Decent, yes, but far from high-end.

>> No.4335991
File: 699 KB, 2560x1440, IMAG1210.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4336027

My parents recently upgraded to an HD tv and have their CRT just hanging out in the basement. It's a Somy KV-32FS120. Is it any good?

>> No.4336040

Probably a knock-off.

>> No.4336060


>> No.4336070
File: 47 KB, 640x480, 121387.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I feel you, sorny and somy can be somewhat hard to distinguish.

>> No.4336112

Thanks, I saw a Sony FWD 42 PV1 pop up on my local craiglist, and I was wondering if it could be any good.
Seller is asking 40 euros for it, which I think is too much for it.
I might try to haggle, or just wait for him to drop his price

>> No.4336113
File: 502 KB, 1920x1440, 20171018_170829.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey guys. I just bought a PVM 14N6U recently and finally got all the cables to hook it up. However, I'm getting this green tint across the entire image. Any idea what is causing this or how to fix it?

Also I don't seem to be able to adjust the chroma and phase through the menu options with this monitor.

>> No.4336219

What signal are you feeding to it?

>> No.4336232

Csync. I'm using retrogamingcables' SCART cable and then a SCART to BNC cable from wookiewin on ebay.

>> No.4336240

Is that ps1 or ps2?

>> No.4336254

Using a CRT monitor fo high quality is a religious experience.

>> No.4336257
File: 2.83 MB, 4032x3024, 20171018_183546.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Damn I feel like an idiot. It even says in small text on the cable to set the PS2 to RGB. Thanks for helping me get me noggin joggin.

>> No.4336914

You have no idea what your'e talking about. Meme Vaporware? C'mon. The OSSC works perfectly with SNES, N64, PS1 and PS2. There is no little to no reason to pick up a Frameister anymore.

>> No.4337260

I am trying to get 240p/480i systems setup with VGA monitors (a few of the monitors have BNC but some are VGA only, the nicest ones too). I think 8-bit to 16-bit consoles for the most part as our freeplay area has 20+ consumer CRTs or similar for 5th gen and newer.

I have a framemeister, but maybe I just am not following. How can I use that to turn my YPbPr/scart console into vga? My framemeister only does HDMI out (unless I completely ignored the fact it can do VGA/analog out).... also sort of related, buying a few more of those for this purpose would be nuts, but I DO have one at least lol.

I might look more into scalers. The GBS8200 might be not good enough, so I will do some research.

>> No.4337261

Interesting. I am going to order something like this then https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Converter/dp/B00Z08KW8C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508411765&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+dp+to+vga

That should solve the issues I had with figuring out a way to play Doom wads with a specific piece of hardware with minimal delay.

>> No.4337270

The OSSC has known issues with the SNES, doesn't work with most TVs, and on top of that, you can't buy one to begin with. The Framemeister works, is a real thing, and it accepts more types of video input making it far more versatile.

>> No.4337357

>you can't buy one to begin with
It's on pre-order right now with winter shipping date.
You can also get DIY kit if you are into that.
I got my OSSC last year, and really satisfied with it.

>> No.4337360

Framemeister + cheapo HDMI to VGA works.

>> No.4337393


>> No.4337405
File: 572 KB, 1623x1969, procrtknick.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I feel like I know what you are all going to say, I ask anyway because I have hope.

I received a mint pro CRT from a friend. Used for a studio, but was an extra and has about 20 hours of use. A 2003 or 2004. During the move from the studio to my home a tiny speck/chip somehow got on the screen (EVEN WITH A FUCKING COVER ON THE SCREEN). Is there anything I can do to make it go away? Or make it less noticeable?

I feel like I am SOL and no one can even figure out where it came from. We checked it over, tossed the cusion/covers on and then transported it then as if jesus is real, magic chip on screen.

>> No.4337406
File: 38 KB, 422x504, 1950-Admiral-36R45[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Neat duder.

I picked up a whole Admiral cabinet from an older coworker of mine recently. It's fucking atomic age looking, side-by-side with a record player. Needs some work and it's B+W but that's okay, I'll sell it once it's fixed.

>> No.4337415

I've done a lot of research on scratched CRT glass and desu there's not a whole lot that can be done if it's deeper than the top layer laminate. If it's just the top layer, that can be peeled off (if it exists on your monitor). If it's deeper than the top layer then you're basically SOL.

I've investigated but not tried some more extreme fixes, such as polishing or acrylic fillers. "Liquid glass" is a thing, but if the refractive index doesn't match you'll still notice the scratch.

>> No.4337430

This is what I expected. I have never had to deal with this, and the thing is you can hardly notice it while gaming, yet if you look for it you see it.

>> No.4337450

I wonder if those car windshield repairs process could work.

>> No.4337513

I honestly don't think the Sony plasma line was much good, even back in the day.

You'd be far better off with a Pioneer or Fujitsu if considering early 2000s models. Also Panasonic and some Samsungs and LGs for later models (2007 onward).

>> No.4337592

dumb question thats probably been asked before, if I want hook my laptop to my CRT do i just need to buy one of those HDMI-Composite converter boxes?
My laptop is hdmi out only, but my tv accepts svideo, composite, and component video in

>> No.4337638

What would be the fastest (least delay) that keeps the most quality? Without breaking the bank? I need to also turn ypbpr into VGA but also REALLY need to keep the delay to as little as possible. I have nothing but VGAcrts locally so I grabbed one. Any guidance would be great, as I would want to keep the cost a bit lower as well.

>> No.4337646

Yes, but do your research on the difference between scalers, converters, transcoders, etc.

You most likely will be recommended a transcoder by most people, but they run about $80 to a few hundred. The issue is how big of a lag is introduced that you will want to avoid, anything more than a frame could be noticeable and not worth it to you.

>> No.4337776

thanks man

>> No.4337827

S video and component. Pretty good

>> No.4338219

Define breaking the bank.

For minimum delay and great quality, OSSC + HDMI to VGA converter.

For 480p games over YPbPr you can just use a transcoder.

>> No.4338230

The cheapo converter boxes will only do a 480i output, so not great for retro gaming where the consoles usually do 240p instead.

>> No.4338367

I have to buy quite a few of them. So buying a few OSSC would get pricey. I just keep seeing the items like GBS8200 have PQ issues but also do everything I need them too in one unit.

>> No.4338395
File: 3.64 MB, 4208x2368, IMAG0747.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Picked up this 20M2MDU yesterday, it's absolutely stunning. Pic related is MMX Collection on PS2 over component, looks amazing imho.
Any of you dudes see anything glaringly wrong with the image I'm getting? I think it's amazing but I'm a pleb.

>> No.4338407

Find a way to get 240p test suite and do the grid test and scroll test. A wii over component is the way I always do it now.

Honestly my favorite way to test is a smooth scrolling clean game like Super Mario World over component. It really pops out the "rolling effect" some CRTs have without actually looking like they have any obvious geometry flaws.

I see a few things but at the same time that screen might just "be that way" if that makes sense. Definitely a nice screen.

>> No.4338419

>rolling effect
What is that, like when video looks like it's in a fisheye? My problem is that unless it's a blatantly fucked up image, I don't know what subtleties to search for.

As far as the test suite, I don't have any modded consoles and my Dreamcast is one that can't play burned CDs. I'm trying to find a SegaCD anyway, so I'm planning to use that for it.

>I see a few things but at the same time that screen might just "be that way" if that makes sense.
Right, analog systems seem to have very unit-specific quirks from what I've read. I can tell for instance, that the top border of the image is uneven, in the upper left you can see the edge but not on the right. Putting the image into underscan allows me to see some pincushion looking effect at the very bottom edges of the image but it doesn't seem to warp geometry in normal display mode.

>> No.4338429

Also, not sure if this is normal, but when there isn't any signal and I'm on the "NO SYNC" screen, the background appears green tinted on both RGB/Component lines while Line A and B both are normal black. When I power up a console and get a signal going, the tint seems to disappear.

>> No.4338476
File: 74 KB, 640x480, Antibanding3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

The green rectangle shows how it kind of looks like a hump/divit, When scrolling with a game like SMW, where the scrolling is smooth, anything that hits that looks warped. This can be very subtle and hard to notice except on scrolling games, and it is a total deal breaker for me personally. It is referred to as banding or rolling.

Without running a 240p test suite, it is hard to really see most defects unless you know what to look for..... But seriously, why even try and find issues lol. Once you know what to notice you will always notice it and then never feel like a crt is perfect with said issues.

>> No.4338489

That is possible that your brightness is too high? On consumer trinitrons, when you raise the picture/brightness/contrast it has a strange greenlike color to the blacks. Otherwise it might be you have a separate issue I personally haven't encountered since I haven't messed much with the 20inch sony pvms.

>> No.4338503

I don't think it's the brightness because Lines A and B are fine on the same brightness. Plus, turning the knob doesn't help anyway. Like I said, it's not tinting my games so I really don't know what's up.

>> No.4338514

Can you take a photo? I want to see how the tint looks.

>> No.4338534
File: 386 KB, 2368x4208, IMAG0749.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yeah pic related is on Video.
It's less noticeable at 50% bright but that was too dark for my PS2 so I had the dial at 3 o'clock. But the RGB/component image is definitely brighter.

>> No.4338536
File: 480 KB, 2368x4208, IMAG0751.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And this is on component. Didn't touch the brightness.

>> No.4338548

If you get close to the screen does it look like a bunch of bright green dots of light? Or is the entire screen covered in green tint?

>> No.4338570

Dots, well lines. Basically the scanlines are black on both but the actual TVLs seem to turn green.

>> No.4338572

Text remains the same white in the menus and such as well though.

>> No.4338579

I feel like this is such a similar issue to what I had with my 36 and 40 inch consumer trinitrons that this must be a similar issue. I know you are using RGB and I was using YUV, but the point still stands they are too similar. I bet someone here has to know the cause. Mine was lowering the brightness and "picture" a little, which darkened everything but made the green go away. Still more than bright enough. Probably a different issue for you.

>> No.4338636

Are HD CRTs any good? I found this cheap one near me and I was wondering if there's any downsides.

>> No.4338646

A lot of them have filtering or other minute delays. Not as bad as some older LCDs or anything, but there is something maybe less than a frame, but still half a frame more than a regular CRT.

For something like a ps3 with fighting games, it is a really good purchase. For older retro consoles the downside is no guncon games and some of them ALWAYS turn 240p to 480i which is shit.

>> No.4338650

Where's the best place for a faggotnigger like me to find a CRT?

>> No.4338653

Listen to your lord and savior Macklemore and go thrift shopping.

>> No.4338662

I never see them in thrift stores, flea markets and garage sales are good though. CL usually has people giving them away if you're willing to carry it out of the house yourself. Worst case you can pay a premium and get lucky on ebay. You can still find a 20" PVM for under 150 shipped which is overpriced I suppose but cheaper than a decent gaming LCD monitor.

>> No.4338684

There are people that literally get to thrift-stores at the minute they open to grab shit like CRTs w/ component and shit. Then they sell them to ebay/craigslist lol.

>> No.4338759


>> No.4338807

It makes me sad that most crts are slowly breaking down and the ones not at your local goodwill or on the free section of Craigslist are being sold by us retro jackasses for exorbitant prices because we know how valuable they are to our hobby

>> No.4338814

u mean play it on a crt?
it's good af

>> No.4338817

that's not as big a problem as you'd think
they used to build things to last, my CRT is older than me

>> No.4338823

Oh so that's why my snes still works and my 360 red ringed in 3 years

>> No.4338828

Not too worried m8, my family had the same television from 1991 until 2014 and it never gave out. It still works today, it's just not being used.
Not to mention that I'm now using professional grade monitors that were made a decade after my family's Magnavox.

>> No.4338851

I wish it wasn't 160 pounds. Might take it off their hands anyways

>> No.4338885

Green or red horizontal lines on an otherwise black screen is a sign that the screen itself my be overdriven, which is most easily remedied by adjusting the flyback transformer's G2/Brightness/Screen knob (not the Focus knob, if it has one).

I normally do adjust the flyback after turning up to max whatever digital or manual control for brightness is available, but that's probably not the proper procedure.Tbh the proper procedure is to have a scope hooked up and adjust the set based on waveforms and other shit but who the heck does that? I will eventually but don't have the time at the moment.

>> No.4338898

SCART is just a fucking disaster. It's just a convoluted disaster. And if we don't start trying to put some effort into this, you know, this is a 30 year old standard, it's archaic. It's remarkable to me that in this era, especially in the retro gaming community, there is a lack of standardization for a lot of this stuff. I think it's finally now time. Enough is enough, man. Let's get this shit together. We need your help, people. We need you out there. We need you asking these questions, we need you emailing these people that you're buying these cables from. Where are they getting their information? How are they building these cables? We need to get this shit straight. I won't rest until the last trust fund baby is murdered because his ignorant ass blew up his framemeister from using a SCART cable with TTL sync.

>> No.4339115
File: 13 KB, 250x250, degaussing coiil.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have degaussed my CRTV.
It has noticeably improved the image quality. There are no longer coloured splotches in the corner.
However there remain two smaller dark splotches in two corners of the screen.
Even after multiple degaussings I have not been able to get rid of these.
Is it possible that I have damaged the shadow mask by improper degaussing?
Did I move the degausser to quickly or too close the screen?
How fast do you have to jerk the degausser to cause damage?
How close can you move the degausser before it causes damage?
What does the damage from too-fast, too-close degaussing look like?

>> No.4339116

so salty over a plug lmao

>> No.4339119

got pics?

>> No.4339326

hey yo I'm a total newb at this but some dude just gave me his 200lb trinitron and I need to know how to find the connectors to hook up the RGB ports on the back

>> No.4339370

Which model is it?

What console/computer/etc are you trying to connect?

>> No.4339374


>> No.4339392



>> No.4339404

Picked up a NEC XP29 Plus last weekend.

Best goddamn tube I've ever seen. Only problem is I need cables for the damn thing since it doesn't accept component video (or does it?).

I'll post pics of it with S-Video.

>> No.4339410

Here's a huge nerd talking about the tv I got


>> No.4339446

HD CRT will cause some reeeee here, 240p from nes/snes/genesis/n64 won't get the noticeable scanlines and will have some input lag from the TV's scaling.
Doesn't have RGB in, could use a RGB to Component transcoder for SNES/genesis. Or for better quality and the option for scanline effects, can use a higher quality external scaler such as a framemeister or OSSC going to the DVI in. Is pretty expensive though.
For NES, component is the easy option, S-Video for N64.
Dreamcast and PS2 will look pretty nice in 480p (or even 720p/1080i for the few PS2 games that support that), just needs a Component video cable.

Noice. No native component video, can do it through a non-scaling transcoder, will look bretty good.

>> No.4339529

>HD CRT will cause some reeeee here, 240p from nes/snes/genesis/n64 won't get the noticeable scanlines and will have some input lag from the TV's scaling.

wait, is this model or will all Trinitrons do that?

And by RGB, I mean the component with the RGB colored cables. Where can I learn how to output the consoles (NES/SNES/etc) in component or svideo or what can be done without modding?

>> No.4339580

That model and most of the other HD CRTs. It's a 1080i/720p HD capable TV you've got there, which will internally rescale standard definition up to those HD resolutions.

RGB is different from component/YPbPr in terms of how the colour is encoded, you can go between them pretty easily with a transcoder box, both give good quality, they're mathematically equivalent. Using such a box will give better quality for the Dreamcast, Genesis and SNES which can natively push

Without any modding or any extra conversion hardware, best you can do is Component 480p (or higher) from the PS2, SD S-video from the Dreamcast, N64, SNES, Composite from the Genesis and NES. With transcoder will get you better quality RGB from Dreamcast, SNES, Genesis.

>> No.4340254

How noticeable is the size difference between 14 and 20 inches?
I have a PVM14L5 which overall is quite nice -- 800 scanline count which isn't too shabby by any means so playing retro stuff is good, but it's also multiformat so I can play non-retro stuff at 480p and 720p, which is necessary to me as I have a lot of PS2, GameCube and Wii stuff that I play.

I'm considering dropping a lot of coin on the 20L5, as my only problem with the 14L5 is the small size of the screen. Not a problem for single player games, but I try to play a lot of 2 player stuff with the gf and it's really hard to see what's going on in split screen games. Is upgrading to 20" worth this? The purchase will likely exceed $800, and while money is no problem for me, that's still a big enough purchase that I want to be at least 80% sure it's worth it.

>> No.4340407

No. If it was 27 inch yes.

>> No.4340424

sell the 14L5 to me and you can get more money toward your 20"

>> No.4340478

>It's a 1080i/720p HD capable TV you've got there, which will internally rescale standard definition up to those HD resolutions.

I got it because it said Trinitron on the box. Is there a specific group of Trinitron that do this? Which versions should I be looking for?

>> No.4340486

Typically flat-screen CRT monitors with HDMI inputs will upscale SD signals internally. Most traditional and older curved screen monitors don't scale (and won't handle HD signals).

>> No.4340494

so everything I read about Trinitron says to grab the late models, rather than the earlier ones.

Is there a feature I should look for that does the upscale? It would be helpful if you could just point to which groups of model numbers below (I'm slow)


>> No.4340572
File: 2.19 MB, 4041x2721, DSC02553cr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

From that list, anything in the sections from the top down through "Hi-Scan without HDMI/DVI (16:9 screen) is something to avoid if you want to avoid the models that upscale.

From there, there are a number of sets that are actually in the wrong catagory.

From the "Hi-Scan without HDMI/DVI (4:3 screen)" list, anything with FS (NOT HS) in the model number is going to be safe. Additionally, the XBR250 is also safe.

Anything with S, V, FS, FV, or FM should always be SD and safe
Anything with HS, HD, or XS are going to upscale and are bad (for retro)

Models with XBR can be either. With the larger numbers, models 400 or higher (XBR400, XBR 700, etc) are going to upscale. MOST lower numbers below 300 should be SD and safe, but not all. There are exceptions like the 34XBR2 which is an HD model.

If you're looking at one in person and are unsure, Sony usually labels their Component inputs as to whether they support HD or not. There may be models where they don't do this, but I can't say for sure. This is from the above mentioned 34XBR2.

This only applies to US models; EU/AUS model numbers are much more complicated and someone else will have to try and break those down.

What would really be nice is to get a list of all the various chassis Sony used and divide them up into HD and SD ones(and PC)

>> No.4340646

I'm personally not a fan of 240p on a PC CRT, the scanlines are so intense it hurts my eyes looking at it.

>> No.4340678
File: 758 KB, 2592x1944, after degaussing.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here you go.
There are still some dark splotches in the upper left and lower left corners.

>> No.4340809

Can we put stuff like this in an OP pastebin? Pretty much every where I've looked, it says to get a trinitron unless I want to go crazy with medical surplus.

According to what I've found, KV-xxFV310 are supposed to be the best of all options. They are listed under the "480i with auto 16:9 enhancement (4:3 screen)" section.

What about the features of this model make it ideal? I now know to check for not having HS/HD/XS. But where can I find what the other acronyms mean? Which acronym is better? I assume FV since the "best model" has it.

>> No.4341019

Question for PALfags, what's the best way for me to play games in their intended 60hz form?

I've got an old CRT TV and a composite cable for my raspberry pi, but that's obviously a PAL 50hz TV so things aren't going to look right if I try running ROMs from an NTSC region, right?

I've looked on eBay and found that a lot of PVMs are both 50/60hz, but monitors seem like they might be a bit too crisp for console games?

>> No.4341029

>I've got an old CRT TV and a composite cable for my raspberry pi, but that's obviously a PAL 50hz TV
If it's from the mid 90s or newer and not some really cheap Vestel-tier crap, it should be able to handle NTSC too. If it doesn't support NTSC, it won't play at all, or maybe it doesn't support the color space, making the image monochrome.
>things aren't going to look right if I try running ROMs from an NTSC region, right?
The console usually has to be NTSC too. I've heard the N64 can play both PAL and NTSC at their correct speed though, but with most consoles you need one which is made for the right format.

>> No.4341103

known brands will support 60hz 99% of the time. At some point I had a old ass early 80s (might even be late 70s) tv with 8 mechanical-switched channels and cog tuning, and it supported 60hz through SCART. 90s TVs will usually support NTSC through composite either through SCART or AV ports.
If you're using a Pi you can just try the composite out. If it's stable but black and white it doesn't support NTSC so you will need a GPIO board to use RGB through SCART.

>> No.4341132

also, Pi default output is 480i, which is wrong for many retro consoles, but there are now modifications to output 240p, so be sure to search for that.

>> No.4341149

As for acronyms, this is something I wrote up some months ago, really should make it into the OP soon.
First Block of Letters:
KV = Television
KX = Monitor, meaning no tuner
KD = Television with Digital (ATSC) Tuner
KW = Widescreen Models

Second Block of Letters:
FM = Lower End Models? Possibly signifying mono only sets. Not 100% sure.
S/FS = Standard model and Flat Standard Model
V/FV = Higher end model than S/FS, slightly better speakers sometime with more inputs and PiP
HS ="Hi-Scan", Sony's term for their HDCRTs
XBR = High End/Flagship Models, usually with better speakers/subwoofer and more inputs in comparison to lower end models; In the case of flat models, models with the last 3 digits in their name higher than 300 or so(XBR400 for example) are HDCRTs
XS = Same catch as XBR, not 100% sure on the differences between it and XBR, possibly a different speaker configuration; Only used on Flat models as far as I know.

N at the end of the model has no antiglare coating.

First set of number signifies screen size, second is the actual model number. If 2 digits, first number relates to specific line, second is tier (FS12 and F13 are from the same line, but the 13 is the higher tier model); If 3 digits, 1 is the line, 2 and 3 are model(100 and 120 are the same line, but 120 is the higher tier).

>> No.4341157

>really should make it into the OP soon.
but OP is at the limit...

>> No.4341174

If there are any more specifics, I'm not aware of them. Most of this only applies to US models. If someone more knowledgeable with the way EU/AUS models are labeled once to write up something similar, that'd be fantastic. The manuals for them explain the last letter or so well enough on being an intended country identifier, but not much else.

As for things making it to the OP, I've really been meaning to, but if it hasn't already been made evident, can be quite lazy (and forgetful). While it could all just be piled into a box and thrown in a pastebin, I haven't really wanted to do that because while the information is technically there it's hard to access and would be better off if neatly organized.

Which I've been meaning to do... for 3 years now.

The reason the FV310 in particular is held highly is because it has a particularly good HV regulator in comparison to other consumer sets. The quality of this part is one of the benefits you get from professional equipment, and as such gives the 310 a picture similar to that of PVMs.

I also just realized I didn't actually link the previous thread in the OP, oops.

Hopefully as a reminder

Revision, Editing, and Consolidation.

The greentext pasta can be redone and shortened, and the (now sitting at 6) pastebins can merged appropriately. Additionally, you can drop the Collab Survey since no one seems to do it or can view it, and (I plan to) replace the survey soon.

>> No.4341175

so...ideally, I want KV-xxFV(higher is better)

The model I got, KV-32HS500, while a good CRT, won't have most of the "wow look at those pixels" and response time of S/V/FS/FV/FM?

Anything else I should know about Trinitrons. I've seriously tried to find a guide. I don't really want one of these medical surplus TVs because I want something 27inch+

>> No.4341183

>The reason the FV310 in particular is held highly is because it has a particularly good HV regulator in comparison to other consumer sets. The quality of this part is one of the benefits you get from professional equipment, and as such gives the 310 a picture similar to that of PVMs.

Fantastic. What should I look for if I want to see if that's in other models? Something in the model code or what should I look for when googling specs?

>> No.4341185

My JVC CRT's right speaker is making an annoying repetitive crackly sound, even muted. Anyone know what the deal with that might be?

>> No.4341191

Tell me /crt/, what's the word on Bang and Olufsen TVs?

>> No.4341206

>won't have most of the "wow look at those pixels" and response time
Getting into semantics here, but the "response time" of any of these CRTs are going to be limited by the decay time of the phosphors which isn't going to differ much between different consumer models.

Input Delay rather, the time between when the console sends out the video signal to be displayed and when it actually ends up being displayed, will be longer. While by no means exhaustive or absolute, the test I did for my own 27HS420 seems to suggest you're going to have a delay of ~32ms(2 frames) for 480p signals, and ~48ms(3 frames) for 240p/480i content.

For "wow look at those pixels", no you're not going to get the distinct scanlines for low resolution content that all the others will. That said, they can and will still provide a very nice picture for content that they mesh with well (read: 480p and 1080i content given the right settings, 720p sort of).

>Anything else?
Newer flat models are more likely to have good inputs and can have quite sharp pictures, but are more liable to run into quirks with linearity and geometry. Also some are known to have common faults with their electronics.

Older models don't have the same linearity and geometry issues, but might not have the inputs you want (or as many) and being older may have had hard lives and need work done to repair simple age related faults with their electronics.

As for "medical surplus" there are a few larger PVMs, but are rarer.

>> No.4341219

thanks, crtbro

one last question. How would KV-36FV1 hold up?

Looks like it has everything except more inputs (also appears to be first gen of the flat ones according to your breakdown of the model code)

>> No.4341234
File: 799 KB, 1440x1920, 20171020_212709.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey this >>4336257 retard again. So I was playing on the PVM for a bit and then I heard a crack, lost picture for a second, and when it came back I now have this little bar thing on the right side of the screen. I'm guessing something just broke. Is this fixable or am I fucked?

>> No.4341239

Probably a dumb question but, if I have a bunch of generic 'BNC to RCA' adapters, can I just plug in component cables by sticking them in the equivalently colored BNC port with the adapter? I have a feeling it doesn't work like that

>> No.4341243

>What should I look for if I want to see if that's in other models?
No one to my knowledge has found it in any other models, just in the FV310 models. You need to remember this, as there are a number of people who have grabbed an FS320, thinking higher number automatically equals better, but it being the lower end option (FS, rather than FV) means it doesn't get the high quality regulator.

Presumably a bad solder joint and or something intermittently grounding out where it shouldn't.

Luxury and snazzy sets, but with a seemingly large number of caveats in which specific revision of a given set you should go for. Use Philips tubes, pretty good choice overall.

Rather old, but if it's bright and in good condition, it'd make quite a nice set.

While it is smart to pay attention to what specific set you're getting so you know what you're getting and what you're not, what is infinitely more important is the condition of the set in question. Even if on paper a set from 2004 beats the shit out of a set from 1994, if the 2004 has been ran hard with the brightness/contrast cranked all the way up on very bright screens constantly and the 1994 set has been babied and used for just an hour or two a day, it's very liable to be the better set of the two in terms of actual usability.

Until it died(sort of) my FS13 looked nicer than my FS100 simply due to the latter being ran hard and the former being babied.

>> No.4341250

>Presumably a bad solder joint and or something intermittently grounding out where it shouldn't.
Is this gonna involve opening the thing up? Not sure where to go from here. It's not loud enough that it comes in over games, but it's still pretty irritating.

>> No.4341256

What monitor/tv?

If it natively supports component it'll work fine. If it supports RGsB you'll get picture, but the colours will be messed up. If it doesn't do either you'll get no sync.

>> No.4341258



>> No.4341261

A crack would presumably being something discharging and arcing when it most certainly shouldn't.

This could potentially be from it being rather dirty inside, but the loss of picture would make me assume something regarding the sync circuit as something happened with aforementioned FS13. This isn't a definite, but just a rough guess.I would certainly open it up if possible (don't actually touch anything) and look around to see if anything look scorched or what have you (not liable) and if it happens again/more regularly, try to keep an eye out to see if there's any visible arcing.

If you mean connecting a system with component to a professional monitor with BNC connectors, that all depends on whether the monitor in question supports component or not. If it does, yes, it's just that easy. The 20M4U supports Component fine, so it'd work no problem, just need to make sure you have it set to Component and Internal Sync.

If you mean using them in place of BNC cables for connecting say, multiple monitors or with Crosspoint switchers; Technically yes. I could go into specifics about video cables and needing to have the right impedance to avoid signal degradation, but for short runs and as a rule of thumb, there's no problem.

Yes, especially if it's still there when you've muted it. It's also possibly an issue with the speaker itself, but I'm not an audio guy.

>> No.4341263

Easily. You can hear it warm up, and the back of your hand near the screen gets the hairs pulled by static. It's also obvious when a set powers up and shuts itself down again due to a fault or something.

>> No.4341270

Yeah, ok, but that doesn't connect to a 15kHz monitor. It's 240p at 120Hz, which is 31kHz. Still very nice, but your post wasn't very clear.

Still, i suppose the post you were answering wasn't either.

>> No.4341389

>The reason the FV310 in particular is held highly is because it has a particularly good HV regulator in comparison to other consumer sets. The quality of this part is one of the benefits you get from professional equipment, and as such gives the 310 a picture similar to that of PVMs.

What exactly does the HV regulator do in CRTs?
In what way is the picture improved by the use of the high quality HV regulator in the 310 compared to a Trinitron that has a regular regulator?
Why don't people just replace the HV regulator in their CRTV with a new one instead of hunting for a 310?

>> No.4341419
File: 3.59 MB, 4032x3024, 20171020_235137.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's a picture of the inside. Not really sure what to be looking for. It looks clean and nice to my untrained eyes.

>> No.4341465

It holds the B+ voltage steady, which is the rail that supplies the deflection coils and also the flyback that produces the really high voltages. With poor regulation you get noticeable change in image size with brightness.

>> No.4341471

HV regulation removes picture "pumping" when high/low brightness changes and prevents "fat bumps" when there's a bright horizontal band displayed.
If anyone has better names, feel free to contribute lol

One does not just place an HV regulator in the mordor, it's a whole chassis design.

>> No.4341490

>You can do 240p over VGA with crt_emudriver but that's only compatible with a few old Radeon cards.
Now it does everything up to some R9 stuff. Which is everything up to about two years ago, depending on other things like the presence of a DVI-I or VGA port.

>> No.4341634

In other words, crt_emudriver is by far the easiest and best way to get 15kHz out of a windows PC.

>> No.4341881

Okay I've played on the Trinitron KV-32HS500 for a day now.

It has screen tearing, like a computer monitor without vsync. It's found on my NES/SNES/N64 on different inputs with different cables. So, it's a feature of the tv. It's also really damn obvious after you see it the first time. I googled it, and other randos mention that it could be caused by the upscaling. Which means I need a better model.

I don't know what to do with this tv now. It's so fucking heavy. At least I got a neat base if I get another 32 inch one.

>> No.4341896

Yep, that'll be the scaling combined with the consoles being not quite compliant to the video standards.

External scaler such as a Framemeister or OSSC would probably fix it, but that's a pretty expensive solution compared to just hunting for a more appropriate SD display.

>> No.4342234
File: 604 KB, 1632x1224, DSC_0118.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

TwinFami + Composite + PVM = still razorsharp

the Mark III's AV on the other hand is blurry as fuck

>> No.4342661

Dat DC controller underneath.
This is a deeply comfy photo.

>> No.4342684

Anyone in New England interested in a PVM 14N2U? Composite and S-Video only, but it's a decent set.

>> No.4342781

A few people above were talking about a ypbpr signal going to a vga monitor. Their discussions didn't seem to lead to anywhere. What is a good $50 or so option to get a variety of ypbpr consoles/resolutions running a crt pc monitor or similar that only has vga input?

>> No.4342964

Am I missing what you are seeing or is the bar in both photos?

I want this too.

>> No.4343021

Wait, but I was adjusting the brightness knob and it still looked greenish until I couldn't distinguish between black and gray anymore, which is too dark for games

>> No.4343136
File: 33 KB, 600x1000, IMG_20171021_0043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Was just playing an old Pong machine and the screen burn or whatever on the crt showing its age was kinda beautiful.

>> No.4343252

Gonbes GBS line doubler will do it for about 20 or 30 burgers. Picture quality isn't perfect on 240p sources, but if you want great results you would increase your budget.

>> No.4343526

Hit up your recycling center, majority of them are there. You can actually get them for free

>> No.4343532
File: 798 KB, 1440x1920, 20171020_212709.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Apologies for my Parkinson's. The red line is the bezel or what have you. And there's that small vertical space that's just not showing any picture.

>> No.4343552

>You can still find a 20" PVM for under 150 shipped
In what world? I've yet to find anything larger than 14" for anything less than like $300.

>> No.4343568

The same thing was visible in >>4336257
If you want to correct for it, set horizontal position.

>> No.4343575

looks like an overscan issue. Is it all games or just one? Some games played smaller intentionally to not have to render as much.

>> No.4343586
File: 3.00 MB, 4032x3024, 20171021_230829.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It wasn't like that before; I can notice a difference. And now there's a glow coming from the right side when's there's nothing displaying. I tried plugging my Wii in too with a PAL RGB cable and it's got the same issue.

>> No.4343685

Are there any CRTs that can produce ultraviolet images?

>> No.4343686

To do what? Get a Mario shaped skin tumor?

>> No.4343710


I need it.

>> No.4343746

Has anybody tried making a 4:3 bezel for a 24 inch bvm? I wanna make one but I'm not sure how to temporarily secure it. I was thinking about using suction cups to suck it onto the glass of the screen. What do you guys think?

>> No.4343842

okay where the fuck can I just buy one of these trinitron kv-xxfv310s? They don't seem to be at ebay.

I checked 8 pawn stores for games and tvs, and they all fucking laughed and bitched about how heavy CRTs were. They don't accept them. Goodwill doesn't accept them. Where the hell can I get one?

>> No.4343991

Looking for any particular model usually isn't sensible, first look for what's available and then find which is the best rather than the other way around. Craigslist/facebook trade groups/whatever's commonly used in your area is usually the best to look through first.

>> No.4343995
File: 829 KB, 2000x1330, DSC_9949.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Built another JVC input card, RGB with VGA connector this time

>> No.4344003
File: 820 KB, 2880x1470, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm real confused with this monitor. So I've done further testing now that I just got my Mega Everdrive and most games look like Sonic 3 on the left where it's just black on that right side although Sonic 3 also has the overscan thing on the bottom. And then there's Sonic 2 where it fills out the missing part with a solid color. I guess it is just an overscan issue, but something definitely changed since the PS2 didn't have this problem until I heard the loud noise come from the monitor.

>> No.4344015

Cut a hole in the default blank cover, or?

>> No.4344071


>> No.4344085

All consoles will have slightly different centering on RGB as this is determined by the sync signal which varies very slightly between devices.

You can either:
>find a happy medium and live with it
>adjust the h-pos every time you switch consoles
>get a BVM and set up an individual settings channel for each console

>> No.4344112

Check Vancouver craigslist.
Flat Trinitrons are common as fuck.
I see 24 of them on there right now.
When you email them ask for the model number.

>> No.4344134

Love your work, Ryo

>> No.4344343

lol that's not me. I just started building another one since I gave the 1st to a friend but >>4343995 is not me.
Unless you meant for the directions, in that case well, you're welcome :^)

That's actually a very good setup, love the daughterbord-style.

>> No.4344350
File: 207 KB, 552x578, ikegami.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

They sell fast, ebay and local has them but if you are too slow they will disappear quick.

For local it helps to not be in a hick state or far away from actual civilization.

>> No.4344351

We can see in your first photo it was exactly like that. A gap.

>> No.4344353

How much increase are we talking? I almost grabbed a XRGB-3 to do it, but I can't justify that spending. Most of my content will be lower than 240p

>> No.4344358

err... well... at 240p is what I meant. Or similar resolutions.

>> No.4344396

>For local it helps to not be in a hick state
Thanks, Indiana.

>> No.4344397

By the way, do you just search on the term PVM? I'm trying to create a filter of some sort so I don't have to run like four separate searches.

>> No.4344482

Would you be willing to build me a JVC RGB card? I'd pay you of course. I just got a JVC TM-H1950CG recently, but no input card, so it only has composite input.

>> No.4344769
File: 1.31 MB, 2048x1536, Profeel 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Alright, guys, I did it. I grabbed myself a friend and dragged the 27 Profeel home.

>> No.4344781
File: 578 KB, 1024x768, grid.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's a grid. Upper corners bend slightly outwards. Will PIN/PIN amp fix this?

>> No.4344787
File: 2.23 MB, 2048x1536, convergence.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Convergence looks kinda funky on the outer edges.

>> No.4344797
File: 562 KB, 1024x768, colours.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

With PAL signals, reds are messed up.

Blue appears out of focus.

The picture has a general "wobbliness" about it, hard to describe. It's especially evident in the upper left and lower right corners. Any ideas?

Did I waste my time?

>> No.4344831
File: 3.26 MB, 4032x3024, 20171022_125701.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sorry if it's sideways

>> No.4344872

>oversized grey famicom

>> No.4344889

fucking nice, that set could use some TLC though.

>> No.4344894

That looks like it's missing the Q component of the color signal (not really sure if that's what it's called for PAL, but anyway it's the out of phase with the color burst part of the signal that shifts the hue purple or green).

On the plus side you can now make anything look like a recent Hollywood movie.

>> No.4344935

For craigs list and others like it, it comes down to what people think they have. You're really going out on a limb expecting normies to know what they have and care enough to include known terms in the title or the description. The folks who use pvm/bvm/professional monitor/retor gaming/rgb/scanlines/ect in the description know what they have and charge ebay prices.

Just search manually. Cheap pvms tend to be sold by people selling old "tvs" thinking these old tube tvs are undesirable. Otherwise you'll only be seeing resellers who bought from norimes or liquidators.

Like this fucker

>ill drive half way (to orlando) if you cover my gas.
You can fuck right off.

>> No.4344957

>useless leet wannabe post

I s-sh-showed him!

>> No.4344962

Dat high point

Sheeeeeit i need to take a battle staion pic with my gat

>> No.4344980

it's the grail of PVMs, there is a solid reason MLIG holds them in high regard. but it shouldn't cost you $800.

when i upgraded from 14" to 19" it was pretty great, also helped since the model accepted component and my 14" didn't

>> No.4345152 [DELETED] 


>> No.4345198

Thoughts on lesser known brands? There's an emerson ewf2703 sitting out on the curb, wondering if it's even worth getting being a literally who brand, to my knowledge, at least.

>> No.4345258

If you're in a European country, that Emerson TV was likely made by Vestel. Not really good.

>> No.4345286

I'm in NA, but does that make a difference?

>> No.4345306

Trinitron KV-27FS320

Why is the 320 model worse than the 310? This model doesn't seem to have any problems with HD or upscaling or whatnot. In fact, the only difference seems to be that since the 310 is FV it has an extra S-video input.

Can anyone explain what the FS320 is missing that makes it subpar to the FV310?

>> No.4345360

I should add I currently have a KV-27FV300 and I'm wondering if the FS320 is better.

>> No.4345374

Well, they won't be made by Vestel at least, but I dunno about the brand.

>> No.4345409
File: 11 KB, 500x375, F4AAEC50-B7F3-5A2E-8E8CD09D27F60602.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Does anybody owns one of these?

>> No.4345657

They're pretty rare, I've never seen one in person. I think the Famicom variation is a little more common (in Japan of course). I guess they have the RGB PPU that's in the Sharp Titler /Playchoice-10 but I've never seen 100% confirmation that that's actually true.

>> No.4345674

Japan Famicom TVs have the titler RGB PPU, they were used for magazine and box screenshots.
US NES TVs were composite.

The titler PPU isn't the same as PC10 PPU.

>> No.4345741

I want to buy that

>> No.4345756

Why is everybody responding negatively to this post?

>> No.4345881
File: 3.04 MB, 4320x3240, IMG_9615.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I got a new CRT. It's a Sony HMD-A440. I believe these were sold with Sony VAIO desktop PCs. It is a consumer-grade CRT monitor.

But, it can display up to [email protected], so that's pretty good. And it has basic digital convergence and the usual assortment of OSD controls. And it has excellent contrast. No foggy blacks like you'd see on the more expensive Sony CRTs that get that voltage problem.

Paid $8 for it at a flea market. The screen is only 18.5" visible, so really no point in running 2048x1536. I'll stick to [email protected]

Kind of fun to run modern PC games on this.

>> No.4346065
File: 80 KB, 1024x867, CRT monitor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Is it normal for the scanning width and height of a CRT monitor to change when I change resolutions?

I spent the time to adjust the width and height of the raster in the CRTs built in menu to use the maximum space on the glass.
However, when I change resolutions for different games and even when the system boots (BIOS is 640x480, desktop is 1024x768) the aspect ratio and screen size is messed up.

In fact, even when I stay on the resolution I calibrated for I am having the problem of the screen suddenly switching back resulting in destop icons and game HUDs being stretched horribly or pushed out of the visible part of the display.

I don't remember having this problem many years ago on our old win98 PC.

What causes this problem and how can it be fixed?

>> No.4346105

That's what I thought about the US model, and I know they're not the same PPU I phrased that poorly.
>bay area

>> No.4346136

aure, contact [email protected] for details, I'm in NZ so international shipping may cost a bit.

>> No.4346168

It's normal for the settings to be wrong at first, but it should remember your changes when you switch, if it's not may be a dead EEPROM.



for PAL that'd be the V component

>> No.4346231

I picked up this monitor from the side of the road and it rains alot in my town.
Do you think that caused the fault?

Can a dead EEPROM be repaired without replacement?
Is it possible to replace an EEPROM without soldering?
Where would I even get the correct replacement EEPROM?

>> No.4346263

Water damage is certainly possible. I'd first check the PCB to see if it's a chip with write protect pin, and if so, cut it and attach to VSS to allow writing. If it was completely dead the monitor would likely look a lot more wrong as it's also usually used to store colour calibration settings too. If it is partially dead chip may be able to source a replacement from digikey.

What does it do if you do a factory reset from the menu?

>> No.4346396

It comes with free pics of poster shagging sheep, cause that's what kiwis do for fun.

>> No.4346535

would you look at that

>> No.4346782

SF and the valley make poor people mad

>> No.4346796

One day when I'm rich I'm going to buy some monitors from yahoo japan auctions.

>> No.4346886

Apparently, brand new CRTs are being made in the Philippines and maybe other similar countries.
They are apparently shit since they only often have composite and RF inputs, with no Component YPbPr, RGB SCART or even S-Video. And they have very poor QA.

Good news is that they still apparently still have repair shops everywhere that repair CRTs for cheap and good.

All this from a friend of mine in the Philippines.
He is also a retro gamer who prefers playing in CRTs.

But still, it saddens me that I have to either visit the Philippines or send my CRTs to the Philippines just to get my CRTs repaired if the time ever comes that it needs a repair.

I wish for the second comeback of CRTs for retro gamers so we don't have to resort to going to the Philippines.

The Philippines is the last resort for CRTs, which is why I often go there.

>> No.4346929

I've been gone from this board and this thread for a long time. You, and this Philippine keyword spam thing you're doing, are new to me.

What's the story here?

>> No.4346942

I don't spam it.

>> No.4347159

I've been considering some kind of a transcoding solution to output HDMI to RGB, YPbPr, or SDI to my BVM D20F1U.

Anyone know any suggestions for inputting HDMI content to BVMs (particularly for emulator use, like MAME)?

Ive seen some of the BlackMagic HDMI to SDI converters on eBay but they tend to be pretty expensive and I don't recall anyone talking about those, here.

>> No.4347219

For HD use can use a generic HDMI to HD SDI converter box to get 720p and 1080i out in perfect quality with no added lag.

For retro use, older ATI/AMD video card with VGA out to BNC cables running CRT Emudriver

>> No.4347257
File: 18 KB, 450x253, FRIEND.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4347376
File: 105 KB, 677x538, Screen Shot 2017-10-23 at 12.01.17 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.4347409

Remember kids, vga out is rgb, not component. Unless you are talking about one of the amd all in wonder cards with a dongle that gives you svideo/component.

>> No.4347470
File: 2.56 MB, 4112x3088, P1030418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This nutso setup uses one of those generic HDMI to HD-SDI converters from OSSC to BVM-D9H5E...

>> No.4347473
File: 3.14 MB, 4112x3088, P1030419.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

...and it does the job just fine.

Thanks for the PSA, anon. Not sure who asked about YPbPr but it's good to get the info out in any case ;)

>> No.4347645

I'll have to look, but I don't know if my unit actually has the HD-SDI input card(just the normal one).

>> No.4348098

Thoughts on the PVM 20n5u? Theres one for sale near me in good condition, it's listed at $100. I dont have a pvm and I want one, but I don't want a shitty model...

>> No.4348103
File: 579 KB, 2560x1440, IMAG1260.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Cuckshed setup

>> No.4348231

The PVM-20N5U doesn't have RGB input. Personally, I wouldn't get it; I have a PVM-14N6U, which has RGB, and it looks amazing. Composite or S-Video won't look as good.

>> No.4348246

I was also confused by that, it didn't have the inputs I was expecting. Thats a shame, because the price seemed great and I could pick it up. I'm really hesitant to order a pvm online and have it shipped, I dont want any shipping damage

>> No.4348295

There's one on sale near me for $140. It's been up for a while, do you think it'd be worth trying to haggle it down to $100? I've been curious as to whether or not the 14N6U was any good or not.

>> No.4348821

Not particularly high resolution, smallet than I'd like, but has RGB in which is nice. I wouldn't say worth 100.

>> No.4349146

>I wouldn't say worth 100.
In today's market, i would.

>> No.4349150

why the fuck are you ppl still talking about "older" AMD cards. crt_emudriver has been updated, it now works on APU's ffs, and up to certain R9 cards. Also on older cards too though, i'll grant.

Out of interest, how would you suggest getting composite sync?

>> No.4349165


I have a NEC monitor with that 34 pin connector. When I finished making the adapter and tried it out it didn't look any better than composite.

>> No.4349176 [DELETED] 

Most recent GPU it supports was released just over 2 years old, current generation APUs aren't supported.

If your monitor isn't too picky with sync levels, the quick and dirty solution of just a BNC T connector shorting hsync and vsync together often works.

>> No.4349179

Most recent GPU it supports was released just over 2 years ago, current generation APUs aren't supported.

If your monitor isn't too picky with sync levels, the quick and dirty solution of just a BNC T connector shorting hsync and vsync together often works.

>> No.4349324

I think I overpaid for my 14N6U; I paid $160. However, mine was one owner, very gently used, and less than 1000 hours on it. It should last me the rest of my life.

>> No.4349478

Don't the radeon drivers have the option of direct csync any more? They always did in the past.

I'd recommend back cheap Extron RGB interface over passive t-adaptors if I'm perfectly honest.

>> No.4349480


Not sure what happened there lol

>> No.4350074
File: 1.28 MB, 2048x1152, DSC_0029.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Been enjoying some Virtua Racing 32x lately

>> No.4350210

>known brands will support 60hz 99% of the time.
>supported 60hz through SCART
>90s TVs will usually support NTSC through composite either through SCART or AV ports

Fuck I had no idea, I remember using SCART as a kid just because it was the best quality, didn't realise it also did 60hz.

So if I'm understanding correctly, the little Sharp CRT (would assume early 90s at the earliest, tried searching the model number online but found no indication of a year) that I picked up from a charity shop, the only inputs on the back of which are SCART and RF, might be able to play NTSC games at 60hz? This is massive.

I've got one of those cables that uses the 3.5mm audio jack for composite video, and I'd connected it through an adapter that took the red/yellow/white cables and output them through a SCART plug.

Should I be able to run that through in 60hz, or would it need to be a legit RGB SCART signal, in which case I guess I'll need to buy a Pi2Scart board or something.

Apologies if I'm making fuck all sense.

>> No.4350216

>I've got one of those cables that uses the 3.5mm audio jack for composite video, and I'd connected it through an adapter that took the red/yellow/white cables and output them through a SCART plug.

To clarify, I don't remember if I manually set it to PAL output, assuming NTSC just wouldn't work.

I remember most games running at 50fps, but I tried an NTSC Sonic The Hedgehog ROM and the emulator was bugging out and running at 300-something FPS.

>> No.4350303

With composite video (the yellow plug) you'll only get a black and white image if the TV doesn't support NTSC colour but can sync 60Hz, if you use RGB over SCART you'll get proper colour.

Early 90s model may support NTSC in which case the composite video should work fine. Know what model it is?

>> No.4350578

Aw darn that's pretty far, I assumed maybe you were in closer to North America. Anyone from North America able to build me a JVC RGB card?

>> No.4350789

Looks like it'd be around 10USD for shipping if you don't mind waiting a week or two, parts bought locally would be ~25USD. Someone in US could probably do it cheaper.

>> No.4351432

i see youve joined the cuck master race

>> No.4351435

I really ought to get a CRT telly. One of those things I keep putting off.

>> No.4351578

Real quick.

I'm about to pick up a 2005 Digistar flat screen crt. It has s video.

Just something for my older consoles. I can't seem to find anything online about it.

Thoughts? Is it decent?

>> No.4351654
File: 1.09 MB, 1536x1152, Pro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I played around some more with my new 27 inch Profeel. Really like the picture, and the sound with the official speakers is pretty sweet. Geometry isn't that far off but I'll still try and see if I can improve it once I have more time.

Turns out the strange colors in PAL mode were due to it not supporting PAL60, at 50hz it looks fine. Somehow missed to check that.

One thing though: Upper left and lower right corner are somewhat flickery, which is very noticeable, also, from time to time the image gets gradually darker, until it flickers and returns to normal brightness.

What could be the cause of this? Bad caps?

>> No.4351697

I see yours is missing the front flap like 99% of Profeel, including mine. Shame about PAL60 but at least it does NTSC 4:43, handy if you're a US serviceman stationed in W. Germany in the 80s.

Yeah probably best to try recapping as a first resort. These things are between 30 and 35 years old now after all...

>> No.4351750
File: 467 KB, 2000x1125, 1343565434453457.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I can only take 1.. A 2005 digistar or a 1998 Toshiba

>> No.4351767
File: 1.55 MB, 1536x1152, SUPER.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What's your model? Are you the 21"-owner from the last thread?

I do have the front flap, it just is currently not installed as the mechanism that keeps it shut is broken (some tiny piece of plastic broke off), thus it flips down and won't stay closed. This is probably also why they are usually missing in the first place as people just removed them completely. I plan on fixing it with a very weak magnet and some glue.

No PAL60 support is no big deal, once I get around making a SCART adapter for the weird 34 pin connector, RGB should work fine at 60 Hertz.

NTSC support truly is pretty neat to have here in Europe. It's common for later sets, but near impossible to find on period-accurate sets for 3rd gen consoles, unless you're willing to import.

I feared I'd have to recap... well, this is future me's problem, as the thing will be in storage for at least a year as I'll be on the move.

>> No.4351832

Get the one with more/better inputs. Curved screen is preferred, generally, but not at the expense of S-video or component, imho.

>> No.4351883

Probably a Walmart special made by a Chinese OEM. Honestly, quality isn't guaranteed to be bad, everything is always worth a test drive. The worst thing about working with lesser-known manufacturers is the general dearth of documentation online or elsewhere. Just play with the menus and search for hidden options once you know the model number. If the results are positive, that's all that matters.

That Toshiba may have component inputs (labeled ColorStream). If so, I'd take that. But of course check the pictures on both if you can.

>> No.4351929

>consumer component in 1998

>> No.4351947


Digistar is a cheapo brand.
Just look at the screens. The Digistar is light grey like early 80s and before TVs.
The Toshiba's darker glass will give you superior contrast and black levels.

The Digistar may have S-video over the Toshiba's composite but any extra sharpness will be negated by the flat screen which will have worse focus and convergence, especially in the corners.

>> No.4351952

Curt and wrong, especially about Toshiba.

>> No.4351970

Yeah I had a feeling the Toshiba would be better despite being a few years older. The digistar had s video which i like but i think i might take the Toshiba

>> No.4351992
File: 967 KB, 4032x3024, 20171025_142939.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm sure I'm going full retard with how I'm posting this, but I don't really know how else to take the picture. I realize the curve of the TV is a thing here, but the picture's cutting a weird way, where's it sort of bending off at the lower left there, and a bit at the top right and lower right as well.

Any ideas on what might cause this?

>> No.4352008

wew that's some borked geometry, hombre. You gotta get in the menus and adjust that.

>> No.4352036

I've got a 27” and 21", both euro models so direct SCART input in addition to the 34 pin.

Lovely sets but my 21 is currently out of action pending some power supply surgery.

>> No.4352059

Is that gonna involve popping it open or can that just be done via a service menu? Never done it before.

>> No.4352061

You should be able to get it significantly better from a menu, maybe even a regular menu and not a service one. It might not get perfect without getting inside, but I personally don't fucks around in CRTs, so I get them as close as I can otherwise.

>> No.4352073

Do you need the remote to access these menus? The three ways I've seen so far that involve JVC CRTs involve a remote.

>> No.4352075

Typically, yes. Universal remotes can often get the job done, and apparently there's android apps that will act as universal remotes, but I'm just parroting what I've heard here, since I don't have an android.

>> No.4352212

any NY bros want to buy a 20m4u?

>> No.4352227

Oh yeah, I completely forgot about the SCART port. Does it support RGB over SCART? I had trouble testing the unit the first time around because I had no BNC adapter and the SCART port did in fact not support composite video.

So is there any reason at all to build an adapter for the 34-pin port? I remember people having sync troubles with RGB via the SCART port.

>> No.4352335

The SCART won't accept composite video as standalone or even as a sync signal. I've had excellent results with csync and Luma.

Yeah, probably not worth messing with the 34 pin connector unless you have masochistic tendencies as it's not the easiest thing to work with and shielding will be a real issue. Leave it to the Americans who never got an alternative RGB-capable input on their Professional and XBRs.

>> No.4352340


New phone, new autocorrect lol

>> No.4352379

That's not as expensive for shipping as I thought. I'll email you!

>> No.4352406

feels good man

>> No.4353049

What would you guys recommend to break out audio from a JP21 cable into either RCA or 1/8" connector?

>> No.4353465

Page 9, New Thread

Any and all suggestions for edits/changes to the OP are welcome, as well as anyone willing to do some writing for pastebins or what have you.

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