Repair /vr/ general

[Anonymous No.4243332]

Couldnt find in the catalog

Can someone PLEASE send me a link on ebay with good replacements for the gamepad rubbers? I all i can find is those shitty square chinese replacements that are useless when you try to move diagonally with the d-pad.

[Anonymous No.4244619]

I got a piss yellow original Gameboy, 3% hydrogen peroxide and a tub of Vanish oxyclean.

Should I just mix it all up and let it sit in the sun?

[Anonymous No.4244907]

>>4243332
What system do you need the rubber membranes for? Most common systems I buy from nintendorepairhut.com but they don't have everything. It's a stupid site to navigate but they are legit.

[Anonymous No.4244974]

I just bought a PC Engine CDROM2 unit to go with my PCE interface. It was listed in junk/non-working condition and I was hoping to fix it up when it comes in. Picture related but just a random one from google.

I know the capacitors are failure city on the Duo units, but is it a similar situation with the standalone CD drive? Other than the laser are there any other bits known to fail? Where is a good place to buy a capacitor kit for this guy?

[Anonymous No.4244989]

What voltage does the NES AC adapter have to be? I have a NES without one, thanks in advance anon.

[Anonymous No.4245017]

>>4244974
The plastic gear that moves the laser will almost certainly be broken, it is on basically all of those units. The CD-ROM2s like that don't necessarily need caps replaced like their 'All-in-One' couterparts, never a bad idea, but potentially not needed at all.

[Anonymous No.4245190]

>>4245017
Good call, I wouldn't have thought of that. Thanks

[Anonymous No.4245231]

>>4244989

10V 850mA, but its been tested that you can use a standar chinese 9V power supply thats has a min of 500mA

>>4244907

For SNES. I found a store on ebay that sells them, but im not from the USA so the shipping is a bit pricey for me. In any case if someone can confirm if they are good, i will buy them. Thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-LOT-Rebuild-Rubber-Button-repair-KIT-for-SNES-SUPER-Nintendo-Controller-/170904230273?hash=item27caaf9981:g:xJQAAMXQBg5RwgM9

[Anonymous No.4245432]

Are gameboy advance SP third party cases any good? Thinking about getting one to replace my scratched SP

Any way to open up and fix a crt tv with annoying coil whine?

[Anonymous No.4245641]

>>4245190
>>4245017
Seconding the gears and track. Those would be the first thing to look at to see if they turn freely.

[Anonymous No.4246336]

>>4245432
That whine is basically part of the CRT experience. Some sets are quieter than others, (PVMs are really bad), but it's always going to be there, hombre. If the set is working perfectly otherwise, there's no sense in opening it up, especially if you're not used to working on CRTs.

[Anonymous No.4247107]

Hey guys I just got this guy for real cheap, like 10 bucks cheap, but it looks very very bad. Should I replace the label? I don't like how it looks, but I think another label would stand out and look kinda shitty, in which case I'd prefer to keep that one.

Bothers me a little.

What ya guys think?

[Anonymous No.4247115]

>>4247107
The shitty label makes it look vintage. I would leave it.

[Anonymous No.4248339]

Does anyone have any recommendations for a Super Famicom power supply? I've used two different third party power supplies and I get rolling horizontal lines with them. One is less noticeable than the other but they're still present.

[Anonymous No.4248372]

>>4244619
I don't think you need a whole tub, just a few spoons. From my research the oxyclean does the same thing as the peroxide. Might be easier to make a paste with starch for the amount of peroxide you have.

[Anonymous No.4248384]

>>4248339
You can use a Genesis model 1 (NOT model 2) power supply.

[Anonymous No.4248912]

Quick question: I'm doing the Genesis s-video mod, where can I find a 5V supply on the board? Can I use pin 12 on the CXA1145? IIRC that pin carries 5V

[Anonymous No.4248941]

>>4248912
Why dont you just get a multimeter?
And yes you can get 5 volt from the VCC pin.

[Anonymous No.4249238]

Hi,can someone help me with my old two playstation ? One of them is a scph-9001 that freeze at the "sony computer entertainment" screen (https://imgur.com/a/AO7nq)) and the other one is a scph-7501 that look like shit in the inside and at the screen (https://imgur.com/a/ihJcg).). I don't have any hope for them but i would like to know if i can do something about it (Sorry fo the shitty pics btw).

[Anonymous No.4249363]

The question I have is only sort-of retro, and only sort-of video games. I'd go to the more appropriate board, but I would be shocked if /g/ even knew what a composite cable is anymore.

I'm fixing to get a new old stock HDTV that's 240p-friendly. Unlike my more recent HDTV, which has separate RCA composite / YPbPr component ports, it's got one of those combined ports where the YPbPr luma port pulls double duty as the composite video port. I'm hearing from some people that some of these multitasker ports determine composite or component mode based on if all three video jacks are in use.

(a) Is this a common thing for combo ports to do? I was under the impression you usually went into an input select and composite/component were options for most if not all of them.
(b) If it does this, is it looking to see if a wire is physically connected, or is it looking for a signal on the non-luma ports? Could I just have my component switchbox go into the TV, and then cascade a composite switchbox into one of the component inputs?
(c) If that doesn't work either, has anyone cooked up a workaround? My googling hasn't gotten me anywhere.

[Anonymous No.4249578]

My Neo Geo CD is having glitches with character sprites flickering back and forth between two positions.

Like a fighting game character each second will have his torso and weapon blink over to 1 meter behind him and then blink back to his body.

What caused this and how do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.4249631]

>>4249363
I have a 2003 Panasonic Tau CRT that has this compo(site/nent) combo port.

>(a)
No, it selects the signal automatically by design. Remember that normies are too tech illiterate to go into the menu and change settings.

>(b)
It does not care whether the R and B ports are plugged or not.
It does not care whether the R and B ports have signal.
It just checks to see what signal is sent to the green luma port and selects composite or component accordingly.
I plugged my composite DVD player into the green port and I got color video.
If it was a component only jack then it would just accept luma-on-composite and give me black and white video.
Then I plugged in the right and left stereo cables of the DVD player into the R and B jacks and the TV didn't care and still gave me color video.
>(c)
Try your switchbox idea and see if it works.

[Anonymous No.4249669]

>>4249578
Sounds like the sprite table RAM is bad.

[Anonymous No.4249714]

The perfect thread when I need it.

I need another N64. Over the past decade I have showered my entire family with N64s. It was a family tradition growing up (White people) to play the 64 as a group....Well, it aint 1998 any more. Since the early 2000s, I have "collected" 64s. After its all said and done, Id wager purchasing 300 games and 6 systems since release. I need to work on my Mario Kart....badly. Mom has beaten all of our asses over and over. Come to find out that since we got MK way back when, she has played it nearly every day. EVERY DAY.

I am looking at various "Funtastic" series, and like the orange, but prefer the Jap version color scheme....Never having a foreign system, I figured here would be a perfect place to ask.

Here is my plan and what I think I know about these foreign systems:

I would need to either modify the "region lock" tabs OR replace them from a NTSC-U unit.
I would need a US power adapter, or a converter from superior 120v to low test 100v.

I figure if the system plays titles and the only thing stopping me is electric input, the expansion pack, controllers etc should all be functionally identical correct?

Thanks anons. You are saving me the embarassment of having a 64 year old lady beating the shit out of 3 grown adults at MK64. Ill have to see if she has any records recorded....I know she can hit the jump on koopa beach without any powerups 2 out of 3 times.

[Anonymous No.4250653]

My Super Off-Road for NES shuts off randomly. Going from one screen to the next, it just goes black. No sound or anything. Reset and it goes right back to normal. Is my cartridge near dead or something?

[Anonymous No.4250779]

>>4250653
Does it trigger seemingly random or only on specific screens? How much time does it take for it to happen and is it always around the same?
My first suspicion would be that a component on the board has a cracked cold solder point that loses connection once the cartridge heats up a bit.
Try reflowing the solder on all components and see if that does anything.

[Anonymous No.4250789]

Hey, I'm having trouble while soldering.

I have a 30W solder and a Sn-Ag alloy. I'm having a lot of trouble trying to solder anything. I wait until the soldering iron is hot, and when I approach the sn to it, it justs get glued to the tip. It won't go down and stay in the plastic board.

What am I doing wrong?

[Anonymous No.4250804]

>>4250789
This. I even use flux paste and smear that shit and it won't stick.

[Anonymous No.4250805]

>>4250789
Why would you use lead-free solder? I think that's your problem. Use standard resin-core lead solder

[Anonymous No.4250867]

>>4250805
Because no stores on my area carry it. But I guess it's worth a try online or something

[Anonymous No.4250881]

>>4249669
How to fix?

[Anonymous No.4250893]

>>4250881
I'd first check the state the mobo is in and see if all the traces leading to it are fine, then i'd try reflowing the chips pins.
If it's really dead you'll have to desolder it and find a replacement.

[Anonymous No.4251016]

>>4249631
Sounds good, cheers

[Anonymous No.4251020]

>>4250789
lead-free solder requires a hotter iron than leaded solder, and 30W is inconsistent in the best of circumstances

[Anonymous No.4251036]

>>4250789
Lead-free solder is shit. Throw it in the trash. Get some good fine 60/40 or 6/37 rosin core Kester or Ersin. I keep both .050 and .031. I mostly use the .031 though.

Also, what temperature do you have your iron set? With good solder, 320-370 deg C is all you need.

Finally, what kind of tip are you using? If it's conical, into the trash it goes. Conical tips are shit, use a good chisel tip. The chisel tip gives more surface area to get heat into exactly what you're working on the fastest.

If you don't want to order solder, go to a hardware store like Ace. They will have this stuff:

www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290632

Watch this video for soldering tips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3co6T-Ul9k

[Anonymous No.4251037]

>>4250789
Lead-free solder is shit. Throw it in the trash. Get some good fine 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core Kester or Ersin. I keep both .050 and .031. I mostly use the .031 though.

Also, what temperature do you have your iron set? With good solder, 320-370 deg C is all you need.

Finally, what kind of tip are you using? If it's conical, into the trash it goes. Conical tips are shit, use a good chisel tip. The chisel tip gives more surface area to get heat into exactly what you're working on the fastest.

If you don't want to order solder, go to a hardware store like Ace. They will have this stuff:

www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290632

Watch this video for soldering tips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3co6T-Ul9k

[Anonymous No.4251041]

I'm working on this TurboDuo. I've recapped about a half dozen in the past & a few I had to repair broken traces, one I even had to replace the 4558 OpAmp.
When I got this one it had audio for a second & then it would completely cut out, with both Hu Cards & CDs, through the headphone jack it plays the audio very low. If you turn it off & on again it has no audio at all but if you let it sit it gets the audio back for a second again then cuts out. When I opened it up I saw a few caps had leaked but not that bad, except C322, which had corroded so bad it fell clean off the moment I touched it. Usually when I recap these I test them as I replace caps to see if I get an improvement or the problem gets worse so I know what went wrong where. This case it never got any better. I’m using the same caps I’ve always used so quality of caps shouldn’t be the issue. So far I’ve:
>Replaced all the caps.
>Pulled most of them back out, test them & check adjacent traces for breaks, no breaks all caps are good
>Replaced the 4558 at IC 506 & 507
>Replaced the Volume Balance IC M51131L at IC 505
>Replaced the ceramic resistors above C322. I tested it without the resistors & I got audio for a little longer before it cut out. I was applying pressure unintentionally to the board & the moment I let up the audio cut out so I don’t know if it was the pressure that did it or the missing resistors. When I replaced the resistors it went back to the same issue. I haven’t been able to replicate this with pressure a second time.
>I re-flowed IC 515 to see if that would do anything, nothing.
I’m at a loss at the moment what to try next.

[Anonymous No.4251045]

>>4251041
What's your voltage like? I'm assuming there's a 7805 in there somewhere, are you getting a solid 5V out of it?

[Anonymous No.4251058]

>>4251045
I haven't tested the voltage regulator exactly, but I have tested other chips to make sure they were receiving 5V & they all were.

[Anonymous No.4251062]

>>4249714
I had a universal game tray printed (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513728)) by a buddy of mine. It works great for playing Japanese and US games on my fire orange US N64. You could use an American power supply on the Japanese system too.

[Anonymous No.4251112]

Anybody here repair Sega CD model 1? I want to get mine fixed. I don't want to mess it up fixing it myself.

[Anonymous No.4251119]

>>4251041
The op amp you replaced, was that the audio amplifier? If not, do you have a schematic, that way you know what transistor or op amp controls the sound?

[Anonymous No.4251169]

>>4251119
Yea that's the audio amplifier. IC 506 I belive is the one that does audio for the AV & the 507 does audio for the headphone. It has other audio amps but they are exclusive to the CD audio I believe.

[Anonymous No.4251172]

>>4251169
Tap directly at both the inputs and outputs of the IC 506 and 507. See if there's signal there.

[Anonymous No.4251193]

>>4250779
Only when finishing races, so it won't go off in the middle of a game. Only when changing screens. It feels like it usually happens within 15, 20 minutes of play or so.

And I have no idea how to solder, am I boned?

[Anonymous No.4251208]

>>4251172
What do you mean by tap?

[Anonymous No.4251214]

>>4251208
If your DMM has frequency, play a track containing a sine wave, say 256Hz. Really doesn't matter. Hook the DMM up, set it to frequency, see if you're seeing that 256Hz signal.

[Anonymous No.4251235]

>>4251214
Got it, I'll give it a try.

[Anonymous No.4251323]

>>4251041
>Replaced the ceramic resistors above C322. I tested it without the resistors & I got audio for a little longer before it cut out. I was applying pressure unintentionally to the board & the moment I let up the audio cut out so I don’t know if it was the pressure that did it or the missing resistors. When I replaced the resistors it went back to the same issue. I haven’t been able to replicate this with pressure a second time.

This is a clue. If you put pressure on a board and it works/stops working then you most likely have a small crack somewhere in the PCB. You might be able to find it under a black light.

[Anonymous No.4251339]

>>4251323
Really? A I had no idea traces glew under a black light. I'll have to try that too.

[Anonymous No.4251357]

>>4251339
Well they don't but damage to the PCB might become more obvious under UV light, not black light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_TAfR8XKI0

I can't find the video where they show a crack clearly under UV light but under normal light it is hard to spot.

[Anonymous No.4251362]

>>4251357
>>4251339

Found it. Quite long but worth a look

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-BBhNrtSR4

[Anonymous No.4251415]

>>4251357
>
>>4251362
Ah, still worth a look though. May help point me in the right direction.

[Anonymous No.4251516]

So I finished up the s-video mod on my model 1 Genesis, but when I turned it on, there was no video. I then tried turning it on with the standard composite cable plugged in, but still there was no video (audio was fine however). Can anyone see what might be the problem with my circuit? I have the luma line hooked up on the left side of the s-video jack (right if you're looking at the face of the jack); I have the base of the transistor (the right most leg, it's a 2SC945) connected to pin 16, the collector connected to pin 19 (5v supply) and the emitter connected to a resistor which goes to the jack. The chroma line is connected on the right; I have a cap attached to pin 15, which goes through a resistor to the jack. The chroma and luma lines are then grounded on the board. The s-video jack is a little messy (I'm no soldering expert), but I'm certain there's no wires touching. Pic related is my setup.

[Anonymous No.4251538]

>>4251516
>gore
Probably some shit that shouldn't be connected got bridged by someone who don't know how to solder.

[Anonymous No.4251553]

>>4251538
There's no bridging in the jack for sure, and I doubt there's any on the resistors. I'll double check just to make sure though.

>someone who don't know how to solder
Pretty accurate unfortunately. This is only my second mod; the first was a Famicom AV mod that I had no problems with. My equipment is pretty bad though; I just borrowed my friend's shitty gun and solder.

[Anonymous No.4251564]

Question: My saturn's light turns on, but nothing else, no menu,disc spin or sensor movement... any one have an idea what happened?

[Anonymous No.4251706]

>>4251037
>Get some good fine 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core Kester or Ersin. I keep both .050 and .031. I mostly use the .031 though.

Thank you. But what do you refer with .050 and .031? Is it the diameter of the thread?

>Also, what temperature do you have your iron set? With good solder, 320-370 deg C is all you need.
>Finally, what kind of tip are you using? If it's conical, into the trash it goes. Conical tips are shit, use a good chisel tip. The chisel tip gives more surface area to get heat into exactly what you're working on the fastest.

I have two solders. One with temperature selection (up to 400 ºC) and conical tip, and another without regulator but it has a probe-like tip, like the ones they use in corporal thermometers.

Thank you very much for the video and the tips. I hope I end up learning!

[Anonymous No.4251740]

So my sister just gave me the original SNES we had growing up and another she got from a garage sale. Problem is I don't have SNES composite cables, only one for a GameCube and N64. It works for their original systems but will only show a black screen for the SNES's.

Are they compatible or do I need to bite the bullet and buy some actual SNES composite cables?

What else could be wrong and is it repairable? I imagine it's got to be the cables not being compatible since both fire up just fine and something is happening when I hit reset or turn them off so it's getting something, just the wrong something.

[Anonymous No.4251747]

>>4251062
>I had a universal game tray printed (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513728)) by a buddy of mine. It works great for playing Japanese and US games on my fire orange US N64. You could use an American power supply on the Japanese system too.
Thanks anon. That confirmed all of my guesswork. I have become unsettled on my color choice. Gold ones keep popping up, and I think when the right system pops up, Ill know. The cost of the foreign systems is less. Are these made commercially by anyone? How much does something like that cost when made individually?

Now I need a 3d printer lol.

[Anonymous No.4251773]

>>4244619
Personally, Vol. 40 hair cream did the thing just fine. Came bottled, no mixing or anything. Just wear gloves and apply evenly with a brush, let it sit in the sun. Worked wonders for my Saturn and NES. I just can't stress even coating enough, as it looks like I fucked up my NES by unevenly applying a coat trying to get large globs to make it work better.

Anyone know how to unfuck my NES' shell? Or is it chemically fucked forever.

[Anonymous No.4251832]

>>4251553
>no bridging
Are you sure? The whole thing looks a complete mess. All solder and no flux makes jacks a dull boy.

[Anonymous No.4252030]

>>4251740
The composite cable you have is fine, it's most likely the console. You've tried cleaning the game I imagine? If your using a clean game the only other thing you can try is electrical contact cleaner spray on the pin connector but if your getting black & white lines it might be shot. The AC adapter port on the SNES console isn't broken correct? I've seen this happen with a bad AC port.

[Anonymous No.4252069]

>>4251706
Yes, the .050 and .031 is diameter of the solder. You can easily change the tip of any iron worth having. You just have to get the right ones. No one tip is best for all jobs. I have about 8 different tips of all sizes. I swap them in and out, depending on what I'm working on.

Also, when you are done with your job, take some rubbing alcohol and clean any residual flux off. That stuff is acid.

[Anonymous No.4252097]

>>4252030
It's both of them doing that though. I find it unlikely, though not impossible, for both to be shot. All I get is a pitch black screen for both. I should preface this with the Gamecube screen being a little fuzzier and dimmer than it should be if that has any bearing on it.

I haven't cleaned the games yet. Is 91% isoporyl alcohol safe to use or do I need some special cleaner?

[Anonymous No.4252101]

>>4252097
Meant to add both turn on and give me that bright red light. I haven't seen these games in over 10 years and the original console does look like it needs a cleaning. I guess I might need to see if I can get a hold of an RF output, huh?

[Anonymous No.4252138]

>>4251740
Composite cables are identical for SNES, GCN, and N64. If they work on one, they will work on all.

Since your SNES isn't showing a screen even though it's turning on, you probably have the dreaded Black Screen of Death. If that's what's going on, save the case, but the internals are junk. You can't repair it, because the chip is dead, and there are no replacements.

[Anonymous No.4252154]

>>4252138
Ah shit, so it's time to just bite the bullet and buy a console? At least the games are a great little collection.

Is this something that's basically inevitable for all SNES or is there a way to prevent this?

[Anonymous No.4252330]

>>4252154
Clean the game contacts thoroughly and clean the cartridge slot on the system. Don't be a bitch and throw more money at the problem than is needed.

Use a screwdriver to open the system if you need to and wrap a credit card with an eyeglass cleaning cloth soaked with isopropyl alcohol. Insert it into the slot and pull it out multiple times until dirt and debris is cleared, dry thoroughly with canned air. Look inside the slot with a bright light and see if there's anything rusted or otherwise blocking connections. Maybe reinsert the credit card covered with fine-grade sandpaper if needed.

Use a rubber eraser on the game contacts to clean off what alcohol misses. My old SNES had problems seeing most of my games and only showing a black screen until I properly cleaned out the slot and spent the time opening every single game and treating them with Brasso. Maybe excessive, but every game now works first try.

[Anonymous No.4252395]

>>4252069
>clean any residual flux off
best advice ever. I do plumbing professionally, and it is always hilarious to see copper a few years after someone forgot to wipe off flux. Warm water pipes get it worse. Flux is heat activated detergent/acid. Don't eat it either. It will kill you.

[Anonymous No.4252614]

I bought a PAL Mega CD Model 1 around 4 years ago, never had the cables for it and tucked it away. I recently dug it up while looking for my Saturn, and by the looks of it it's in awful shape.

Wondering if there are any guides around on how to open, clean and repair any problems I may find with it (besides /vr/ of course)

Just got a few questions.

>Any guides on how to open and clean one online? Not sure if the PAL Mega CD Model 1's are different to American or Japanese, so I'm just making sure.
>When I move the console, it seems to have some parts inside that are moving (near the right hand side below the connecting socket), would could this possibly be and how careful should I be with it?
>There seems to be some staining on the console, not sure if it came from the Mega Drive being put on and off but can I get rid of it?
>There is also some orange staining near the small opening on the venting, would this be rust?

Not going to fix it for a few days until I get some answers.

[Anonymous No.4252619]

>>4252614
The rattling coming from the connector socket on the right is perfectly normal and it's nothing to worry about.

[Anonymous No.4252660]

>>4252330
To be fair, he did say that the system was fucked beyond repair. I'll give it a try when I get off of work.

[Anonymous No.4253454]

>>4252097
>>4252101
Definitely make sure your games are clean before deeming the whole thing busted. The other anon is right about the "Black Screen of Death" being a possibility but a good doctor doesn't deem a sleeping man dead before checking his pulse.
If the cable gets you any sort of picture out of a GameCube the cable is good, & if you’re getting a black screen from the SNES most likely it is outputting through the AV, you can try the RF to be sure but most likely you will get the same result.
You can clean your games with 91% alcohol, it's perfectly safe to use. You should give the game a REALLY good cleaning until black stops coming off the pins then really douse the pins in alcohol, pop it in & out of the cartridge slot & clean it again. That's the easiest way to clean a pin connector.
Don't worry about alcohol causing any sort of damage. It's non-conductive so it will not short the system.
If you still can't get it to work Google search for retro game shops in your area, they seem to be popping up everywhere these days. Call them up, tell them your situation & ask them if they'd be ok with testing out your system for you. These places usually have known working cables & cartridges for testing consoles that are being traded into their store. They can test out your system for you & figure out if something is wrong & sell you the correct cable if needed, maybe even repair it if it needs a repair.

[Anonymous No.4253459]

>>4251041
>>4251323
I found the break.
When I used the black light the areas I knew were badly damaged showed it, like around C322, but I also noticed a deal of damaged in the area between C613, C323, C306, & C615. I had checked this area before & couldn't find any broken traces but while I was inspecting this area I noticed light wasn't shining through one of the PTH & when I flipped the board I noticed that R324 (the only component connected to that PTH, was a bit discolored, not enough to notice at a glance but enough for me to check if it had continuity with the opposite side & it didn't. The leakage had damaged only the area inside the PTH, leaving both the top & bottom intact & with good continuity to their abject components but disconnected them from the underside of the board. I poked out the collected corrosion out of the PTH, exposed the trace on both sides & jumped through the PTH with a bit of bus bar & it works perfectly now.
Thank you all for your help.

[Anonymous No.4253469]

>>4252660
Yea one guy said a black screen means it cannot be helped, their referring to the CPU or one of the PPUs being dead, while this happens to SNES consoles (& no it cannot be avoided, & is not easily fixed) a black screen does not always mean a dead CPU or PPU. The SNES displays a black screen when it isn't reading a cartridge, whether it be because none is inserted or it can't make heads or tails of what is inside of it. It isn’t like the NES where it will display a colored screen, later on with the N64 was designed to output no video signal what so ever if it wasn’t reading a cartridge.

[Anonymous No.4253489]

>>4252614
Test it first, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Model 1 CDs have quite a bit inside that rattles around like anon >>4252619 said it's the ribbon cables; they have a weight around them that bumps into the grounding plates, perfectly normal & safe. The magnet hub that helps hold the disc to the motor also rattles a but too, could be that.
I don’t know any good guides online but there are 2 commons issues with model 1 CD.
Dead fuse: you’ll know this right away; if you get no power you have a bad fuse. Real easy to replace, their called pico fuses or in-line fuses.
Bad Belt: when the belt goes bad one of 2 things will happen:
> the drive will not open
> it will not read the disc
The same belt that opens the drive also lifts the motor into place to spin the disc. A lot of the time the belts get worn out just enough that they can open the drive but not lift the mechanisms inside. So if it doesn’t read games don’t automatically assume it’s the laser. Far too many times I see people assume it’s the laser & then freak out when replacing the laser doesn’t fix it. I’ve fixed dozens of Model 1s & every time one wouldn’t read games it was the belt, never the laser. Doesn’t mean the lasers don’t go bad, just saying it isn’t NEARLY as commons as the belts going bad.

[Anonymous No.4253575]

>>4253459
FUCK YEAH!

[Anonymous No.4253605]

>>4253469
>>4253454
Thanks. I ran a soaked tip on a cart and dark gray shot came off. I'm gonna clean the see with the jungle book cart since I don't care about that game. There is game over games by my place that allows free testing. They're pretty cool so I know they'll help me out.

[Anonymous No.4253653]

>>4253605
Update Robert Stack style: garage sale snrs is now playing the cleaned games. I'm watching unsolved mysteries while cleaning the games with qtips and alcohol.

[Anonymous No.4253920]

>>4253489
>if it ain't broke don't fix it
Do you even know where you are? Opening things and fucking them up is the /vr/ national pass time.

[Anonymous No.4253941]

>>4253653
That's the trick. I did basically the same thing when cleaning my game collection. Set up a cleaning station in front of the TV and put on a couple movies while I went to town.

If you get a really stubborn game that refuses to work, you may need to open the cart with a game bit screwdriver and examine it. Sometimes rust or extra corrosion can mess with the pins. That's when you need to bust out the Brasso

[Anonymous No.4253943]

>>4253920
In that case you want to test it with a piece of provolone cheese. When it starts to smoke just cover it with a damp clothe, it'll be fine.

[Anonymous No.4253950]

>>4253653
Nice!

[Anonymous No.4254049]

Hi /vr/ I need your help on this one. Bought an amstrad cpc 464 without AC adapter. It requires 5V 2a input. Lucky me I have a space psp cable which is exactly 5v 2a but as you can see the connector is the wrong one, i need the one on the right. I was thinking about this: Would it be possible to cut the right wire and cut the end of the psp ac adapter and rewire it to have a bootleg psp ac adapter with the proper connector? Or alternatively, can I buy an ac adapter with these specs shipped in 24h with the proper connector? I can't even properly identify the connector. It's the szme than the one for my baofeng Uv-5r or my subor d99

[Anonymous No.4254065]

>>4254049
You can get a modern universal switching power supply that has bunch of switchable connectors with it and be quite sure it has the one you need. It's a barrel plug but I can't tell you the correct diameter.
Cutting the cords, rewiring them and fixing it up with some heat-shrink tube / electrical tubing is a valid solution as well. Did that to have a European power supply with the weird ass plug the american super nintendo has. Not even my universal PSU has one of those plugs.

[Anonymous No.4254075]

>>4254065
bought this one, it has a neat little switch to change the volts. Will arrive the for friday. Can't wait to use this awesome computer

[Anonymous No.4254191]

>>4254075
Neat!
You did make sure to get one with the proper amperage though, right?

[Anonymous No.4254205]

>>4254191
Yup output is 5v 2a so it's all good. Any good amstrad cpc title or software I should check out?

[Anonymous No.4254237]

>>4254205
Can't help you with that but one last thing to make sure before you actually use it with your machine:
I just noted that that one universal PSU only allows you to put in the plugs in one direction i.e it only supports one polarity.
You should check if that fits together as well because if it doesn't and you plug it in, you're gonna kill it.

[Anonymous No.4254249]

>>4254237
Oh alright that's useful information, gonna check this out thanks.

[Anonymous No.4254765]

>>4253950
>>4253941
The original SNES we had from our childhood did something weird. So I was taking out the power cord to it and uh...the SNES part of the power port is now lodged in the AC adapter's connector. I hesitate to do anything with it now. I probably will just keep it for spare parts/nostalgia.

It's got that off color look so that's how I know it's the one from our childhood. The Garage Sale one has pristine coloring so I'm guessing it's a newer model.

[Anonymous No.4254990]

Any tips for fixing horizontal lines on a dmg game boy? I know they're tougher to fix than vertical lines, but I've heard hovering a ~200°c soldering iron on the ribbon cable can possibly fix it. Haven't given it a try yet though. Anyone have success stories with any other methods? Or should I just trash it and get a new one?

[Anonymous No.4255073]

>>4254765
That happens all the time & part can be replaced. There should be instructions online but you can buy a whole new piece then you just solder it in place. It's as simple as taking the whole thing apart, de-soldering the old one, solder in the new one & your done. 2 solder points, very easy.

[Anonymous No.4255076]

>>4254990
The soldering iron on the ribbon cable can only fix vertical lines, this is a horizontal line. The ribbon cable isn't as hardy & will melt with a soldering iron. you can try just putting pressure on it once it's apart, has fixed a few for me int he past but horizontal lines are real bastards.

[Anonymous No.4255117]

>>4255076
I guess I'll give it a shot, I have nothing to lose anyways. Would hate to have to break out the soldering iron again.

[Anonymous No.4257157]

>>4255117
here's a pretty decent method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByntOejr7CM
I'd just resolder the same screen and see if that fixes it.

[Anonymous No.4257163]

>>4257157
Seems like a lot of work for one line. Has anyone had success fixing lines like this?

[Anonymous No.4257334]

>>4257163
Sometimes I get success with those lines by just putting pressure on them on the left side where the line is.

[Anonymous No.4257427]

>>4247115
This. It's readable. Leave it.

[Anonymous No.4257545]

>>4253459
Glad to hear it man.

always nice to hear when helping pays off. Especially with an expensive system like that.

[Anonymous No.4259572]

Is this stuff safe to use on cartridge connector pins?

[Anonymous No.4259661]

>>4259572
As a last resort before something goes in the trash, sure
As your first solution, pump the brakes

[Anonymous No.4259672]

My copy of Pokemon stadium has a save battery that only works 50% of the time. The data isn't lost whenever the save decides not to work, but I'd like to have it fixed.

[Anonymous No.4259674]

>>4247107
The fabric that it is sitting on is nice, is that a couch? Looks comfy

[Anonymous No.4259678]

>>4259661
I'm dealing with some pretty severe corrosion here, but I'm also dealing with a copy of Harvest Moon so I'm hesitant to try anything too drastic. Isopropyl alcohol hasn't cut it yet, so is there an effective middle ground between the two?

[Anonymous No.4259697]

>>4259678
Baking soda and water would be a mild middle step, with the standard water on electronics caution.

[Anonymous No.4259752]

>>4259697
Baking soda huh? That's a new one on me, but I'll give it a try. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.4259847]

>>4245231
You can buy membranes for the xbox 360/ps3 off aliexpress for $1. I suggest getting that and just cutting it then gluing it to the side you need.

[Anonymous No.4259874]

>>4251564
I know nothing about saturns but if only the led comes on maybe the power supply blew, or at the very least a fuse blew which you could replace for very cheap.

The power supply might just be outputting a trickle of power right now.

[Anonymous No.4260396]

>>4259847
>meme branes
thanks. imma gonna use this.

[Anonymous No.4260594]

>>4259572
I personally use Brasso but this is a similar product. I only use Brasso after trying alcohol first. The absolute last resort is fixing broken traces. Can you post a picture of the board's condition.

[Anonymous No.4261991]

>>4245231
What happens if I use a higher/lower voltage AC adapter?

[Anonymous No.4262040]

>>4261991
It needlessly stresses the voltage regulator.

[Anonymous No.4262535]

>>4262040
Nope. Reason #891643621 why getting advice on the intarwebs is a bad idea.

[Anonymous No.4262983]

>>4259572
>>4260594
Just take out the board and use a pencil eraser to remove the corrosion and dust away the shavings. Polishes aren't really made with electrical contacts in mind and alcohol swabbing (while useful for intense bacterial growth) du'in't do sheit compared to an erasing.

[Anonymous No.4263045]

I'm trying to repair a Time crisis 1 Arcade cab. but it was missing a monitor so i've been trying to hook up a tv to it but i only get a black and white picture (pic related)
I have tried several tv's and different scart cables, even other namco system 22 pcbs and i get the same problem.
does anybody know what may be causing this issue

[Anonymous No.4263118]

>>4262535
so I can use any ac adapter?

[Anonymous No.4263167]

How feasible is it to replace a Twin Famicom drive belt? I'm considering buying one cheap with an untested FDS slot so the belt may need replacing.

[Anonymous No.4263315]

The LED on my Genesis is turning on but I'm not getting any sound or video. Anyone know what the problem might be? I use this Genesis for modding purposes, so there could possibly be some solder bridging on one of the chips. Anything else I should look for?

[Anonymous No.4263330]

>>4249238
>Hi,can someone help me with my old two playstation ? One of them is a scph-9001 that freeze at the "sony computer entertainment" screen (https://imgur.com/a/AO7nq)) and the other one is a scph-7501 that look like shit in the inside and at the screen (https://imgur.com/a/ihJcg).). I don't have any hope for them but i would like to know if i can do something about it (Sorry fo the shitty pics btw).

Test with game vs Music cd. IF it plays Music CD, and not the game I would say that the laser is failing.

Replacement lasers can be had for a fairly cheap price. I recently replaced a Spch 1001 laser assembly. Took 4 weeks to get the right part because ebay sellers lie and steal. I had to order the part from germany, because no one in the USA had the proper laser.

You need to research your unit(s) and find out exactly what laser assembly you need. They vary from model to model.

The replacement is quite simple. 5 screws and a pair of wires to unplug.

[Anonymous No.4263356]

>>4243332
So I just bought a dreamcast on a whim. I've been also looking at getting a Saturn for awhile too. I'm definitely not going to buy games for them and was wondering if there was a way to mod them to play games off an SD cart or similar since I don't want to keep burning discs all the time.

[Anonymous No.4263820]

I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question. But I need to change the save batteries in a lot of my games and the batteries in my consoles as well. I also need to learn how to use a soldering iron. Is all kits roughly the same to use or should I get a specific kit? If there's also a kit in mind you'd recommend me. Please that would be very appreciated. Thank you.

[Anonymous No.4263981]

>>4263118
>so I can't into reading comprehension?
Correct. As far as a PSU you can use anything that meets the various criteria needed. If you don't understand those get an original or something advertised as working with your console in your location.

[Anonymous No.4264101]

>>4243332
Anyone have info on fixing a six switch 2600? Screen divided horizontally in about 5 segments and unreadable.

I reflowed power socket and wires where secondary board ribbon cables connect. It had no rf at all til I reflowed. Had perfect picture. I plugged in a controller and the screen divided into 5 horizontal slices that are unreadable. They look like the correct colors for the game, so I think it's outputting but video is messed up.

I don't know how plugging a controller in could do this unless something was loose. This 2600's solder is fucked, cold joints that have separated all over the place. Next fix is to try resoldwring everything. Makes me miss jap solderwork. Was old solder just shit or just workers bad at soldering?

[Anonymous No.4264562]

>>4264101
Could be many things. No way to know without useful information.

[Anonymous No.4265214]

>>4264562
What kind of information do you need? I have a multimeter if that's what you mean.

[Anonymous No.4265756]

>>4263045
Bumping this again, I'm using a sony trinitron and it works with my neo geo mvs. But no matter what i do it won't show any color with my time crisis cab.
I have also checked the wiring to make sure it's all correct and it is.
The only thing i don't have wired up is the auto switch which needs a 2v to pin 16. But that can't be the reason right?
I have the channel set to rgb

[Anonymous No.4265758]

>>4265756
Is your TV PAL?

[Anonymous No.4265761]

>>4265214
A pic is always good for starters. And exactly what behavior are you seeing. You go on about plugging in a controller like that's relevant some how. So does it return to normal operation when it's removed or are you just correlating the two through some sort of cargo cult mentality?

[Anonymous No.4265803]

>>4265758
Yes

[Anonymous No.4265805]

>>4265756
Is the sync compatible between the old monitor and your new TV?

Read this.
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/sync.html

[Anonymous No.4265834]

>>4265805
It might be something like this. But could sync be the reason for no color?
Also if there's two sync cables should i wire them both to one pin? can i split them and wire them into one before the scart connector?
or could it be a jumper issue on the board?
thanks for the link btw

[Anonymous No.4265835]

>>4265803
Mate, isn't it obvious then?
The MVS and any kind of normal arcade monitor uses the NTSC color format.
If you try to connect NTSC to PAL or vice versa all you're gonna get is a fucked up gray scale image because they're not compatible with one another.
You'll need an NTSC TV.

[Anonymous No.4265843]

>>4265835
Ah sorry, I didn't read your first post again and my brain just remembered arcade and went straight to MVS.
Anyways, you'll still need NTSC for whatever arcade board you're using.

[Anonymous No.4265853]

>>4265835
But my MVS is NTSC and the Time crisis cab is PAL i assume.
Also the tv is PAL but should support both PAL and NTSC signals according to the service manual.
>>4265843
Shouldn't the arcade board be PAL since it was sold here in europe?

[Anonymous No.4265929]

>>4265853
Arcade PCBs, even in europe ran on NTSC arcade monitors

[Anonymous No.4265939]

>>4265929
Alright, but do need a converter of some sorts?
The trinitron kv-29FX20E i have should accept mtsc signal but i could be wrong.
>http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html
could this work?

[Anonymous No.4266498]

>>4259874
There is a small glass tube fuse near the inputs to the system, I guess I could test it some how.

[Anonymous No.4266989]

Can we get an ODE for this that doesn't suck please?
>PSIO
>32gb limit
>have to do internal mod for it to even work which at that point why don't you just install a fucking modchip
I'm waiting for someone to one up these lazy australian fuckers with an actual decent ODE because I know someone out there can do a better job. Kinda like how the USB-GDROM guy completely btfo'd the GDEMU guy for the dreamcast. He just simply made a better product.

I'm not paying $150 for something that has a hard limit of 32gb sd cards. That's just fucking stupid.

[Anonymous No.4267246]

>>4263356
There are optical drive emulators for Dreamcast, but good luck finding one -- GDemu's dev is a hardcore procrastinator, and USB-GDROM's dev is always swamped

[Anonymous No.4267630]

>>4243332
Hey guys i know this isnt /vr/ but i really need help. I have a ps2 controller i use on my ps2 and on my pc for playstation 1 emulation and one of the pins somehow got pushed in. It still works on my pcs adapter but not on my ps2 anymore. Doesnt fit snug into the port anymore.

How can i fix this? This is one of my favorite controllers so im pretty upset. Im guessing the pc adapter fucked up the pin somehow.

[Anonymous No.4268414]

Picked up an av famicom over the weekend, but I can't get it to run anything. So far I've only been trying it with a 72-pin to 60-pin adapter from stone age gamer, but no dice. I don't have an original nintendo AC adapter, so there's no way I personally fried it. Is there some possible easy fix for this that everyone fucks up or something? I didn't get a good deal on it (ebay prices for a functioning console), so I'm not really interested in spending a lot of time/money fixing it.

[Anonymous No.4268496]

Two of my snes games won't work unless they held/tilted backwards
I assume something is wrong with the carts, but I can't figure it out.
Everything else works fine with no problems, except these two

[Anonymous No.4268669]

>>4268496
a super smash bros cart from my friend once had the same problem caused by dry solder joints

[Anonymous No.4268856]

>>4268414
Do you get any colors or just a black screen? Try not only cleaning the adapter (Rubbing alcohol, q-tips), but cleaning the pins in the console. Insert and reinsert the cartridge until all the gunk gets out of the console's pins. My experience with import consoles has been consistently dirty, so don't be surprised if that's all. By a Nintendo AC adapter you do mean the Japanese one right?

A bit on the obvious side, but the av out only does composite, no s-video or anything.

[Anonymous No.4268865]

>>4247107
If the entire label is staying stuck just fine don't replace it. A proper repro label will be justified after this ones actually falling apart. Not gonna lie I like this look though, looks like it actually survived zombies eating neighbors.

[Anonymous No.4268913]

>>4263167
Pretty simple & annoying at the same time.
On paper it's a very simple repair:
>remove old belt, clean wheels, put on new belt
Main problem is the belt is in the center of the drive & parts are intertwined between it so you have to take the whole thing apart & then work it all back together around the new belt. Isn't hard just time consuming.
Also make sure you get good belts from a reliable source & buy multiples. I've gotten a few bad ones int he past from even the best suppliers. Their cheap though.

[Anonymous No.4268917]

>>4263315
If it worked before the mod & directly after the mod then yea you caused a bridge. Now if it worked after the mod then all of a sudden stopped could be other things.
Clean the cart connector first, exhaust all options for video out (RF, AV, what ever mod you did) check if your getting a video signal at all. Could be any number of things.

[Anonymous No.4268920]

>>4263820
Kit? For battery replacements? Every single cartridge uses a 3V battery, 2032, 2025, & 1616 are all the same type of battery, their just different sizes. Order some tabbed 1616 batteries & put them in what ever you need.
If your learning to solder battery replacements are one of the easiest things to do with little to no risk at all so go for it.
There are plenty of tutorials out there for it. I've never seen a kit for battery replacements but don't bother, it's 1 part that is piratically universal so your good with a 10-20 pack of tabbed 1616

[Anonymous No.4268931]

>>4268414
DP what >>4268856 said to clean the pin connector. Also make sure your putting the NES cart in the adapter correctly. I know some do not specify but most require the NES cart to face away from you, which seems counter intuitive but it has to do with pin outs & such.

This is an IMPORTANT detail about the AC adapter though. DO NOT use an American NES power adapter on it. It will fry it, if you fried it you will have to replace the voltage regulator (or fuse if it has one, I've seen some with them but I'm pretty sure that wasn't stock)
If you have a Sega Genesis Model 1 power adapter that will work just fine, it's what I use on my Famicom & have been using on multiple models for years now. If you can't get one cheap you can always get one of those cheap universal NES/GEN/SNES ones. They won't last forever but it won't kill your system either.
What AC adapter have you been using?

[Anonymous No.4268936]

>>4268496
Could be this >>4268669
Could also be broken traces. Open it up & send us a board pic. That is after cleaning it... I assume you've cleaned them.

[Anonymous No.4268947]

>>4268856
>Do you get any colors or just a black screen?
I get nothing at all. Kind of like a blinking light state on the nes toaster, but no light obviously.

>Try not only cleaning the adapter (Rubbing alcohol, q-tips), but cleaning the pins in the console. Insert and reinsert the cartridge until all the gunk gets out of the console's pins. My experience with import consoles has been consistently dirty, so don't be surprised if that's all.
The adapter is new and clean, but the pins were filthy as fuck. I tried the t-shirt trick and it came out clean so I didn't suspect anything. But I broke open a console cleaner and cleaned the shit out of the pins. Still not working though, unfortunately. I'm considering brasso'ing them.

>By a Nintendo AC adapter you do mean the Japanese one right?
Sorry, I meant that I don't have an american nes power adapter. So if the thing is fried, I didn't fry it. The adapter it came with is the original japanese one, which doesn't work. I also tried a third party one that's supposed to work (and I checked, it's DC out), and still no dice.

Either the adapter just doesn't work with top loaders, there's something wrong with my av cables, or the thing just doesn't fucking work. The pins were so fucking dirty there's no way the shop tested it, which is surprising because they're usually really good. Don't want to return it after all the fucking cleaning, but I'm running out of ideas and warranty time.

[Anonymous No.4268949]

>>4268947
>Either the adapter just doesn't work with top loaders,
I meant the av famicom specifically. I'm too tired.

[Anonymous No.4268965]

>>4268947
& you said your using NES games on it in an adapter correct? & your sure that's facing the right way correct? If you don't have a famicom game & it's under some sort of warranty send it back. Don't start mucking around with something that never worked for you if you have a warranty & you can just get a different one.

[Anonymous No.4268968]

>>4268965
Yeah, the nes to famicom adapter doesn't swap orientations like the reverse. I can't get a different one (only one), but at least I can get my money back.

Anyway, thanks for the help.

[Anonymous No.4268980]

>>4268968
But you'll get your money back, that you can then use to buy another one.

[Anonymous No.4269069]

This is probably a stupid question to ask, but is there a way to tweak the emulation on the Pandora's Box?

I mean, I understood what I was getting myself into, and it still plays the majority of games fairly well, but it just feels like such a shame to have all the Sega games fucked up despite being some of the easiest to emulate, among others.

[Anonymous No.4269307]

>>4268936
Yeah cleaned a few times

[Anonymous No.4269314]

>>4268669
>>4268936
I don't exactly know what to look for so any help is appreciated

[Anonymous No.4269317]

>>4269307
>>4269314
Have you checked the voltage on the battery? I know late SNES games had quirky shit with the games not working if they didn't detect a save file.

[Anonymous No.4270654]

I have an snes console that i found for 5 bucks because it has a severe problem: the av output doesn't work, the image appears on the TV with wavy distorsions. The RF output works fine.

I cleaned the board and still nothing. I checked every single circuit in the board, added conductive paint and tried everything i could but nothing. So, my question is: since theres a lot of Composite to Coaxial/RF converters, theres any RF to composite converter? because i cant find any on ebay. Thanks

[Anonymous No.4270981]

>>4270654
>
Don't use conductive paint, use solder, check for breaks & make sure your caps are good. It isn;t common for SNES caps to go but it does happen fairly often & that could be why you have no AV out.

[Anonymous No.4270992]

>>4269307
You'd be looking to see if any of those thin traces that connect to the contacts are damaged. You also might want to check those chips for cold solder.
If I were you here's what I'd do:
.Clean the contacts with Brasso followed by rubbing alcohol. This will completely take corrosion or grime out of the equation.
.check the traces from contacts to where ever their going for continuity, repair any if found. Also check for cracks in the PCB, if the PCB cracked it broken a trace.
>reflow the chips, except the SA1. Those contacts on the SA1 are too close so unless your really good with solder I'd avoid that one.
Between each step test it & if it works then stop, your good.

[Anonymous No.4270994]

Bought a VGA cable for my Dreamcast, hooked it up to my HDTV and connected the red and white audio cables to the audio-in port with one of those dongles that makes the audio go through a male 3.5 mm adapter and these were the results. This weird picture and no sound. Any help, /vr/?

[Anonymous No.4271032]

>>4270994
Garbage cable. I don't know where people are getting them from but this seems to come up a lot nowadays.

VGA boxes tend to be good, especially the beharbros ones. If you want to stick to a cable try buying elsewhere. Maybe aliexpress.

[Anonymous No.4271186]

>>4271032
>>4270994
>VGA Cable
Yea, almost definitely the Tomee one is what everyone's falling for. That things by far has the most mixed results out of any cable I've ever seen, and Tomee has a track record with making crap cables. Sorry, but there's no such thing as a cheap one and done solution to VGA out of a dreamcast. If you don't plan on buying a VGA box, I wouldn't even bother trying for VGA, as anything less is doing something shady/cheap.

Buy a third party one, the cheapest ones I see start at $40-$50 unfortunately. If you are a die-hard dreamcast fan and AV nerd, buy what
>>4271032 said, a beharbros box, they're always quality. Those are typically around the $80 range, pretty sure they have a bunch of different models.

[Anonymous No.4272042]

>>4244974
As a minor update on this, I received the CD-ROM unit and the gears actually looked pretty solid. There was no damage to the gear teeth or seized movement, but I noticed that the arm holding the laser assembly to the worm gear was extremely loose, so I bent the metal back into shape so it didn't slide freely anymore. Not sure if that was the problem, but hopefully it doesn't hurt.

now all I need is for my interface dock to arrive and I can test it lol

[Anonymous No.4274329]

Bamp

[Anonymous No.4275134]

>>4270654
>RF to composite converter
>can't find on ebay
>google "RF to RCA Demodulator"
>getting results from fucking walmart

Either way, you have a bad trace or your A/V multiout port has issues. Your composite video is fine, otherwise you wouldn't be getting RF at all.

[Anonymous No.4275161]

>>4247115
>>4257427
>>4268865
>looks like it actually survived zombies eating neighbors

Yeah, it ain't broken, won't need a fix.

>>4259674
It's a couch, indeed. It is kinda comfy, yeah.