Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.3659464]

Repairs. Mods. Technical questions. What are you working on?

Check out the wiki and add your knowledge to it:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

OP Question: Anyone know anything about the Atari 7800? Mine has a tendency to reset itself, but not constantly (so probably not a problem with the reset switch). Ms. Pac Man resets right after I leave the title screen (but not during, as I can tell from the continuous animation), but Pole Position will randomly reset during a race. Any idea what would cause this?

[Anonymous No.3660143]

>>3659464
It might be the reset switch like you said or some where along the lines the reset signal could be triggered somehow.

I'd get some contact cleaner and spray it into the switch and push it a few times until its dry and try again.

[Anonymous No.3660146]

I got this bootlegged copy of Shantae off of AliExpress a few days ago. It worked fine and the label and cartridge look nice enough (generic "GAME" logo aside), although the cartridge had a slight bulge that looked dumb and made it hard to fit in my Game Boy.

The battery that was on the cartridge was too big, and the epoxy blob chip was preventing it from fitting well. I replaced it with one of the smaller batteries and ultra-low-profile holders I use when refurbishing Gameboy carts, although I had to re-wire parts of the PCB because the old battery holder was wired up in an unconventional way.

I used my Dremel to cut and isolate part of the positive area on the back of the board that one of the two ground legs on the old battery holder was attached to. From the front of the board, I filed away the reverse side of that area and the common ground, then bridged it with a resistor leg and some solder, thus transforming it into a common ground pad. I hotglued down the new battery holder and soldered it to the pads.

Now the cart works perfectly and has no annoying battery bulge. Even with the extra fuss I think it was well worth the $8 I paid for it even if it's a bootleg.

[Anonymous No.3660149]

>>3660146
Here's a clean look at the inside so you can get a better look at the bridge and where I ground away the protective enamel to reach the copper.

[Anonymous No.3662321]

My NESRGB board and multi-out port came in the mail this week. One step closer to my ultimate NES being complete. Wish me luck, gents.

If all goes well I'll be ordering Etim's Atari 2600 RGB board and his FM sound module for the Master System too.

[Anonymous No.3662367]

Thoughts?
My current Wii is covered in scratches and I was thinking this had kind of a Panasonic Q vibe about it

[Anonymous No.3662374]

>>3662367
is dat real chrome dawg

[Anonymous No.3662436]

>>3662374
it's from here;
https://xcm.cc/products/ii-case-chrome

[Anonymous No.3662443]

>>3662436
You have fine taste in chrome.

[Anonymous No.3662448]

>>3662321
I sure hope you have a desolder gun or serious practice lifting 40 pin DIP's

[Anonymous No.3662460]

>>3662448
I think just a desoldering pump and solder wick is enough for this job.

[Anonymous No.3662468]

Alright, I got this N64 for free from my cousin, he had gotten it brandnew in 97, and he played the living fuck out of it, he said it wouldn't power on at all so I thought i'd try to fix it, and well...I'm fucking stuck, cleaned everything as much as I could, and still no power, I also cleaned the ports with vingar to get rid of any corrosion and still, nothing. I've never worked on a N64 before so i'm clueless to pin pointing what's causing the problem, does anyone have a clue to what could be wrong?

[Anonymous No.3662470]

>>3662468
2nd photo.

[Anonymous No.3662473]

>>3662460
Maybe but most desoldering pumps I come across are trash and don't suck.

Why I invested in a desoldering gun.

[Anonymous No.3662476]

>>3662468
>>3662470
The problem is it's rusted to shit.

I really don't think there's any saving it at this point. It'd be a waste of time.

[Anonymous No.3662502]

>>3662468
>>3662470
This needs to go in the gore thread.

Does your cousin live on an oil rig?

[Anonymous No.3662505]

>>3662502
You know, if you want I could show you the real bad side of the console, he umm...Lived dangerously.

[Anonymous No.3662872]

>>3662448
I don't have one and can't afford one right now.

I manually desoldered all the RAM ICs on my Commodore 64 though, and if I can survive that experience I think the NES PPU should be a cakewalk.

[Anonymous No.3662875]

>>3662367
That's pretty cool.

[Anonymous No.3662882]

>>3662468
I don't even know if that thing is salvageable. Maybe if you just soaked the whole thing in vinegar for a few hours and went over it with a toothbrush (and let it dry for a REALLY REALLY long time) you could resurrect it, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Maybe you should consider a viking funeral for it.

[Anonymous No.3662889]

>>3662460
It depends on the board. Stuff like older carts and mainboards have quite wide holes so you can easily just use either a pump or wick (or both).

Some machines like Sega CD2 has very small holes. You just can't remove the DIP chip from those with pimp or wick, some of the pins will just not budge. I wasted hours on those pieces of shit... after I use pump + wick, I then just use a fucking heat gun to loose up the stuck pins. And after THAT, I still need to clean up the holes of the remaining solder.

would be nice to get a pump for those, but I already have too much desoldering hardware I don't use.

I think next time I'll need to try my other solder iron, it has much higher performance.

[Anonymous No.3663069]

Well. I've gone and done it. I have two Wii which would output component fine until I installed homebrew channel and hacks. Now when each Wii is hooked up via component to any CRT, all I get is pic related. Composite out works fine for some reason though. The Wii video out settings are NTSC, 4:3 and 480i. Anyone know what fuckery is a foot here?

[Anonymous No.3663102]

>>3663069
Are you sure it's set to 480i? This exact thing would happen to me when I would plug my Wii into my CRT with component cables after using it on my friends HDTV and setting it to 480p. The only way I could fix it would be to use the composite cables, make sure the video settings have been switched to 480i, turn off the console, and switch back to component.

Alternatively, and it is possible, you can still navigate the menus while the picture is all crazy like that. Learn your way to the menu for 480i and try to do it with the component cables. It could be that for some reason your homebrew installation is automatically switching it to 480p whenver you use component cables; maybe if you switch it to 480i while component cables are connected will correct the default.

[Anonymous No.3663118]

>>3663102

The post says its in 480i...................................................................................................................

[Anonymous No.3663124]

>>3662367

That won't look good after like one week

[Anonymous No.3663125]

>>3663102

Yes, I am completely and positively sure that the wii is in 480i.

[Anonymous No.3663151]

>>3663069
That looks like 480p trying to display on a 480i TV, or PAL trying to run on NTSC.

[Anonymous No.3663182]

>>3663102
>>3663151
Besides anon specifically confirming that the Wii is set to 480i, it wouldn't look like that anyhow.

Pic related is what 480p fed to a 15kHz display looks like.

[Anonymous No.3663192]

Is it possible that there exists a cios that fucks up component/svideo on wiis? I've tested them on HD tv's via component and they worked, but i didn't want to mention that because every response would be "are you sure its 480i?" Of course its set in 480i.

Ive tried my "broken" wiis on a commodore monitor via svideo after making this post and they work on that, but not on any consumer CRT. fuck

[Anonymous No.3663510]

>>3662882
Fuck it, I threw it in some vinegar, a whole shit ton of corrosion dissolved, anything is worth a shot at this point.

[Anonymous No.3663524]

>>3663510
Make sure to let it dry for a really long time. Put it in a dry place for at least two days. You don't want to take any chances of it shorting out, if there's a chance that it still works in the first place. It's also possible that there are corroded traces that are disconnected and you might be spending a lot of time with a multimeter searching.

When something is that corroded there's no guarantees it will work, but if you can get it working again that'd be pretty remarkable. A lot of the cartridges from the Atari landfill still work so I wouldn't say it's impossible.

[Anonymous No.3663532]

>>3663524
Wish me luck.

[Anonymous No.3663536]

>>3663524

[Anonymous No.3663658]

Holy corroded fuck

[Anonymous No.3663683]

>>3663118
I asked "are you sure..." so that he would double check. He could've been mistaken.

>>3663182
>Pic related is what 480p fed to a 15kHz display looks like.
Interesting, but for me I get the same effect >>3663069 does: the picture stretched diagonally and quickly moving left to right.

>>3663125
I would still try to navigate to the TV Resolution menu while the component cables are in. It could be that you see the setting as 480i when you use composite cables (as it would have to be) but that for some reason it's switching to 480p when you have the component cables plugged in.

Is there some other way you're confirming that the Wii is definitely in 480i when the component cables are used? Have you tried both switching from composite to component while the Wii is on and while it is off?

[Anonymous No.3663685]

>>3662468
>my cousin lives in a sewer
Cool. Is he a turtle?
It's not worth trying to salvage but if you want to try for shits and giggles a few long baths in an ultrasonic cleaner might do the trick. I've restored several boards shitted up that much that way.

>>3663124
Probably. It's most likely plated plastic that will start to discolor and flake as soon as it's out of the box.

[Anonymous No.3663812]

>>3662468
Update: Yeah it's fucked, i'm feel like my cousin fried it or some shit, there's no signs of life in it whatsoever. Should I try to salvage something's on it or leave as be.

[Anonymous No.3663953]

>>3663536
>>3663658
You never know. I've seen some pretty terrible looking shit in this thread that the owner was able to get working again. Even if it's not salvageable you can at least say you tried, which is a more noble sentiment than just throwing things out based on appearances alone. If you can actually bring it back to working order you'll have quite a conversation piece.

[Anonymous No.3663961]

>>3663812
Well that's too bad, but you tried. Tell your cousin to buy a new N64 and take better care of his shit, or stick to emulators.

[Anonymous No.3663992]

>>3663536
What kind of person was your brother? Can you tell us some stories?

[Anonymous No.3664112]

>>3663992
Cousin, and he's still alive, sorry if I made him seem like he was dead or something, but he's about 22, and has been playing video games his whole life, he's a massive pothead, but he's pretty cool, I also remember about 8 years ago me and him would play perfect dark for N64 whenever I came to visit him, those were good days, he's more into emulators now since he can't really afford anything (He just started to rent a trailer) He plays games in such low frames on his shitty computer it hurts to watch, I feel bad for him.

[Anonymous No.3664116]

>>3663961
Oh, and that's another thing, he takes good care of his shit believe it or not, it's the environment he grew up in that killed his shit.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3664174]

>>3663812
Have you tried a different power supply? It's very likely that is is what has actually gone bad rather than the consoles, despite how terrible it looks.

[Anonymous No.3664363]

>>3664174
I used the power supply on another N64, it works, which fucking sucks.

[Anonymous No.3664768]

>>3663683

Its not in 480p, let go

[Anonymous No.3665521]

My snes has vertical lines running through every game I try to play and some funky colors in mario kart. Is this a possible fix or waste of my time? I have cleaned all of my carts and they are all doing it

[Anonymous No.3665528]

[Anonymous No.3665530]

Are there any 'essential' mods for the CDX? Note: I have a mega everdrive so I shouldn't need to do a redoing mod for the sega cd.

[Anonymous No.3665543]

>>3665530
That was supposed to be region free mod.

[Anonymous No.3665564]

>>3660149
Good job anon

[Anonymous No.3665570]

Is there a multiout scart cable that works for all (PAL) Nintendo consoles?

[Anonymous No.3665573]

Does anyone have any tips about modifying a SNES to better protect it from power surges? I remember reading some horror stories a while ago about how SNES video chips were getting fried because Nintendo didn't bother putting capacitors where the power comes in.

[Anonymous No.3665575]

>>3665570
This one should work fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo-stereo-RGB-SCART-lead-SNES-CSYNC-FULL-SHIELD-GROUNDED-cable-/201284360714?hash=item2edd7b9a0a:g:awgAAOSw~gRVgu65

[Anonymous No.3665612]

>>3665573
get a surge protector. This would be easier then modding a SNES.

>>3665530
The only essential mod I can think of is replacing all the caps and tuning the laser pots but those aren't mods.

>>3665521
It might be the slot. Get some electrical contact cleaner and spray a bit into the slot.

Also spray some on a Q-tip and go over the games again. You'd be surprised how much grime good electrical contact cleaner can remove, just get one that's safe on plastics and PCBs

[Anonymous No.3665645]

>>3665575
>NTSC

[Anonymous No.3665669]

>>3665612
I've been using surge protectors for pretty much my whole life so hopefully that means I'm good.

[Anonymous No.3665673]

>>3665645
A scart cable is a scart cable and it should work fine either way. I've bought European scart cables to use on my NTSC setup and they worked fine. The cable is just a cable.

[Anonymous No.3665743]

Are there any recommendations for button cell battery holders?

I have some game carts of various systems that need their batteries replaced, and instead of being lazy and just ripping the old cell off the tabs and taping a new one in place (see pic) as I've always done, I think installing button cell holders into all my game carts could be a good excuse to get some beginner soldering practice.

I'm just not terribly certain where you order stuff like this online.

[Anonymous No.3665776]

>>3665743
Good idea! Now I want to do this too. You could just buy them from ebay or amazon.

What I'm worried about is will they fit in a flat gbc/gba cartridge? Apparently they fit in gameboy games that have a bump on top instead of an indent.

[Anonymous No.3665832]

>>3665743
These are the ones I use but unfortunately they don't seem to be available right now. I bought them off of AliExpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free-ship10pcs-lot-CR1616-battery-holder-patch-battery-holder-3V-button-batteries-environmental-seat/32634642198.html

I still have a ton of them and don't expect I'll ever run out, although you might need to look into an alternative if these don't come back in stock.

[Anonymous No.3665840]

>>3665832
Why not try and find one that uses a 2025?

[Anonymous No.3665850]

>>3665840
They're harder to fit inside of the GBC cart's casing. On a larger console's cartridges that's usually the way to go, though.

[Anonymous No.3665853]

>>3665832
Another thing I should mention is that whenever doing one of these battery holder mods, put a dab of hot glue on the back of the holder before putting it down. This will make sure that you aren't stressing the solder pads when the battery eventually has to be removed.

[Anonymous No.3666709]

>>3665673
When it comes to Nintendo consoles:
NTSC video cables are just plain wires (SNES needs 220µF caps on RGB lines to remove the DC offset).
PAL video cables always (should) contain 75 ohms resistor to ground (except for RGB on GC) and the 220µF cap to remove DC offset.
Having a DC offset on the signal usually doesn't cause trouble but could cause damage if connected to an another output (especially if that output has a DC offset too).
The 75ohms resistor to ground attenuates the signal, leaving this out causes a way to bright picture.

>>3665743
>Mask rom labeled as "Logic ICs"
>dat tape on battery
Whoever made this chart is clearly retarded.

[Anonymous No.3666905]

I have a gameboy with dead pixels.
How do I fix it?

This is not the "black lines" problems where you reflow the contacts going into the screen.

These dead pixels are visible even when the GB is turned off.

See pic relate.

[Anonymous No.3666908]

>>3666905
The screen is broken and the liquid crystal leaked. Buy a new screen.

[Anonymous No.3666910]

>>3666905
My guess is that it's some kind of screen rot or damage. There's not really any way to fix it as far as I know.

[Anonymous No.3667615]

I picked up an old super nintendo (PAL) from my friend the other day to test it to see if it still worked.

When i plugged it in and turned it on nothing appeared on the screen, so I gave the cartridge slot a good clean with some cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol.

Now whenever i turn it on i get a jumbled mess on the screen like pic related when plugged into the multi out and awful static when plugged into the RF out port.

Does anyone know the possible cause of this problem and how to fix it? I haven't torn it apart yet since i don't have a game bit, but i can probably just make a makeshift one with an old crappy flathead and a makeshift one if necessary.

[Anonymous No.3667947]

>>3666910
>not checking the catalog for another "guess and don't know" thread before posting.
Thanks for playing sport

[Anonymous No.3668342]

>>3667615
oh yeah i also forgot to mention i gave it a good spray with contact cleaner and left it for a while. I think i might need to remove the cartridge slot and clean the pins that connect it to the board.

[Anonymous No.3669675]

my psone (scph-101) has started requiring half a minute or so to warm up before it reads good discs (3+ minutes to read discs with troublesome bottom scuffs/scratches). before warming up, inserting a disc does one of three things: brings up the "please insert playstation format disc" screen, reads it as a music cd and brings up that screen, or doesn't read it at all and stays at the main bios screen. also, the bios screen gets brighter over the course of several minutes, and this is well after the crt has fully warmed up.

i opened it up and didn't notice anything obviously wrong with the pcb: nothing fried or corroded, no bulging or leaking caps. removed the laser cover and nothing obviously wrong there either. i don't know what finer things to look for, though.

ideas?

[Anonymous No.3669752]

>>3667947

Not him but, youre welcome sporty sport sportsfan

[Anonymous No.3669976]

>>3669675
The finer thing to look for would be the pot adjustment for the 101. It sounds like the laser is dying.

You could try and get your disks resurfaced professionally at say a pawn shop. That might help but it sounds like you need to get a replacement console.

[Anonymous No.3670009]

>>3669675
Might be a cold/cracked solder joint. Check this link.

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

[Anonymous No.3670316]

>>3670009
thanks for the tip and the link. didn't see any, but i'll give another look tomorrow when there's better light.

>>3669976
didn't know laser adjustment was a thing. thanks. good excuse to get a multimeter... should have one already.

i didn't think it was a laser issue because that wouldn't explain the screen brightness increasing over time. however, i've since learned that this was a problem with s-video because composite worked fine. so that's probably a tv/cable/connection issue, and needing to warm up to read discs might just be an issue with the laser. seems like the best place to start.

on resurfacing: i'd figured that it was better to avoid it if the disc worked, but i hadn't thought about how dealing with bad scuffs and scratches must tax the laser mechanism. it'd be fitting if i was ignorantly killing my console via a game with "intelligent" in the title.

[Anonymous No.3670728]

>>3662872
As an intermediate solution you can get one of these.

Yes I know they are a chinese piece of shit, yes I know they can't replace a full fledged desolder station but it's a nice solution between the crappy solder pump and the desolder gun Anon cannot afford.

I've desoldered IC's on commodores, ataris, bbc micros with it with no issues, just keep it clean with the cleaning rod and clean the solder gunk on the tip.

[Anonymous No.3671143]

My copy of Megaman Soccer runs perfectly fine until you get to the actual gameplay, then it starts looking like pic related.

It has the same behavior on other SNES's I've tried and the board itself looks fine with no broken traces.

What else could be causing this?

[Anonymous No.3671305]

>>3670728
I'll look into it. The quality looks somewhat terrifying but if it works it might be worth $30.

[Anonymous No.3671453]

>>3671305
Doesn't look terrifying, *it is terrifying*, mine had the power cable almost fall off and if I leave it plugged for a long time the motor inside the solder makes ugly whirring noises when I activate the pump, but it gets the work done, just don't leave it unattended or it would burn your house down.

[Anonymous No.3672293]

>>3671143
If you can get some high resolution pictures of the PCB that would help

[Anonymous No.3672632]

>>3671453
Good advice. Maybe I will pick one up as my secret weapon. It would have been real nice to have something like that when I was desoldering my C64's RAM ICs.

[Anonymous No.3673642]

>>3672293
For the record, I didn't sand the pins, they were like that when I got it.

[Anonymous No.3673647]

>>3673642
front A

[Anonymous No.3673648]

>>3673647
Front B

[Anonymous No.3674134]

>>3673642
>>3673647
>>3673648
Those pins are most likely the culprit.

You'd be better off finding a cheap replacement board, SHVC-2AON-11 and transplanting the chips.

[Anonymous No.3674140]

>>3674134
For your convenience

http://snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-2A0N-11

[Anonymous No.3674156]

>>3674134
The fuck you talkin' about? Just tin the pins with solder, this isn't rocket science

[Anonymous No.3674159]

>>3674156
I doubt those will take any tin due to how stripped they are

[Anonymous No.3674162]

>>3674159
I doubt you've ever tried

[Anonymous No.3674165]

>>3674162
I have.

[Anonymous No.3674213]

>>3662872
Here's how I easily pulled both my CPU and PPU for my Hi-Def NES mod.
First off get your cheap manual solder sucker and go over each pin once.
Next you'll need a 20$ heat gun (preferably with an attachment that thins the airstream to dip chip width)
Get yourself a dip chip puller.
You may wanna put your nes board in a vice together with some padding so you can pull on the chip easily.
Apply hot air to the underside of the PC (not the side the chip itself is on).
After around 7-10 seconds the pin should lift out easily.
Thanks to removing most of the solder beforehand you only need a bit of hot air which the PPU/CPU perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.3674215]

>>3662872
Here's how I easily pulled both my CPU and PPU for my Hi-Def NES mod.
First off get your cheap manual solder sucker and go over each pin once.
Next you'll need a 20$ heat gun (preferably with an attachment that thins the airstream to dip chip width)
Get yourself a dip chip puller.
You may wanna put your nes board in a vice together with some padding so you can pull on the chip easily.
Apply hot air to the underside of the PC (not the side the chip itself is on).
After around 7-10 seconds the pin should lift out easily.
Thanks to removing most of the solder beforehand you only need a bit of hot air which the PPU/CPU can handle perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.3674225]

>>3662872
Here's how I easily pulled both my CPU and PPU for my Hi-Def NES mod.
First off get your cheap manual solder sucker and go over each pin once.
Next you'll need a 20$ heat gun (preferably with an attachment that thins the airstream to dip chip width)
Get yourself a dip chip puller.
You may wanna put your nes board in a vice together with some padding so you can pull on the chip easily.
Apply hot air to the underside of the PCB (not the side the chip itself is on).
After around 7-10 seconds the pin should lift out easily.
Thanks to removing most of the solder beforehand you only need a bit of hot air which the PPU/CPU can handle perfectly fine.

[Anonymous No.3674229]

>>3670728
>>3671305
>>3671453
>>3672632
I ordered this terrifying contraption today. I've got the NESRGB mod and two repro cart projects coming up so I'll have plenty to test it with.

[Anonymous No.3674512]

>>3674134
>>3674140
>>3674156
>>3674159
>>3674162
>>3674165

Hey guys, so after checking those pics I noticed that the solder joints squared in red had this funky circle thing, which I guess is a cracked point.

I decided to resolder them

[Anonymous No.3674519]

>>3674134
>>3674140
>>3674156
>>3674159
>>3674162
>>3674165

Hey guys, so after checking those pics I noticed these points marked on the pic had this circle funky thing, which I guess it means they were broken, so I decided to give it a shot and solder them

[Anonymous No.3674521]

>>3674519
and how did it come out?

[Anonymous No.3674523]

>>3674519
>>3674521

That seem to have hit the nail as the game displays normally now.

I guess taking pics do help lol

Thanks guys.

[Anonymous No.3674535]

>>3674523
Nice, glad it worked out. I'd still do a transfer to a different board just due to how bad those pins are.

[Anonymous No.3674540]

>>3674535
I'll have that in mind, but that will have to wait untill I get a replacement board in my hands.

[Anonymous No.3674560]

>>3662367
Damn, that's sexy. But it'll get scratched.

[Anonymous No.3674567]

>>3663812
post updated pic of the board and salvage anything you can.

[Anonymous No.3674575]

I was given an OG Xbox but it won't read game discs. I took it apart, cleaned it out and cleaned the laser. It still wouldn't read any game discs (which are all in decent shape), but it would read a brand new audio CD. Does this mean I have to tune the laser?

[Anonymous No.3674581]

>>3674575
Unfortunately yes, but you're also in luck kinda. Microsoft didn't lock the DVD drive to the xbox's motherboard so you can switch it out for another if you find one.

[Anonymous No.3674606]

>>3674581
Find another DVD drive? Or find another broken Xbox to swap the drive?

[Anonymous No.3674613]

>>3674606
Find another xbox and swap the DVD drive with it.

[Anonymous No.3674618]

Having a problem with my original white pc engine. Went to go play some new games I just picked up and it's like it's missing colors/has corrupted graphics.
My games have all been cleaned. The games are running and the sound is fine but everything looks 100% off. Tried to play splatterhouse and the entire background is completely black with Rick looking very odd and missing a lot of sprites and all the colors are way off. Almost looks like the colors are inverted.
Have just been using my turbografx rf + ac adapter. I tested both cables on my Genesis model 1 and they work fine. Tried switching the rf to a different channel and no difference.
I tried to look this up on different forums but I can't find anyone ever having similar problems.
I'm going to take it to work tomorrow and crack it open. Anyone ever have or see this issue? Bad caps maybe?

[Anonymous No.3674630]

>>3662436
>>3662367
Anyone know of any replacement cases for SNES? My plastic is cracking.

[Anonymous No.3674647]

>>3674630
Alas that's a niche that no-one seems to be in a terrible rush to fill. Someone used to sell aftermarket NES cases that came in cool translucent colors, but I don't think they've produced any in several years, let alone for the SNES. You might try just ordering a non-functioning unit that's in good cosmetic shape and swapping the housing, because there are lots of those. That's what I did for my NES.

My SNES isn't looking so great because it was very yellow and the Retrobrite treatment came with some unwanted side effects, just like on my NES. I'm planning on buying a 1chip unit anyway though and hopefully I can snag one in decent cosmetic shape for around $100.

[Anonymous No.3675182]

>>3673648
>>3674519
>>3674523
These two big chips are the ROMs.
This is kinda common for SNES games to use two ROMs (one might be half as big as the other one, to have 3 megabytes total for example by having 1MB and 2MB ROMs)
What you experienced are dry solder joints, especially on the ROM chip that contained the actual game "engine" but not the title screen.
It would be the best to resolder all pins as the other could may fail after some time but I wouldn't transplant the chips to another PCB.
Just keep all your games and cartridge slot clean and you don't need to worry about it.

[Anonymous No.3675253]

>>3674618
Here's a pic of what's going on.

[Anonymous No.3675278]

>>3674647
>the Retrobrite treatment came with some unwanted side effects
what happened?

[Anonymous No.3675293]

>>3662321
Did you get around to doing this yet anon? How'd it turn out?

I did the same thing to my NES last spring, it was a very fun and satisfying project. It was also my first time doing any kind of delicate/complex soldering, and I didn't have too much trouble getting the PPU chip out at all. Hardest part was cutting out a hole for the multi-port, because I didn't have the right tools at all, but it still wasn't too hard.

[Anonymous No.3675306]

>>3665521
In addition to cleaning both the cart and the slot, if you fancy yourself the handy sort and have the safety bit to take apart your SNES, I would inspect the connections of the pins to the board at the slot itself.

I have a friend who has been collecting/repairing SNES for years, and he said one of the most prevalent failures he sees are the pins disconnecting from the board along the front edge. The way the eject button sort of pries the cart out puts uneven pressure on the pin connector, and if it's seen a lot of use, or overzealous slamming of the eject button, it can cause problems.

[Anonymous No.3675351]

>>3674535
>the pins! the pins!
I know people like to get all uppity about pins because they're the only part of the cart that most people ever see, but they're pretty fucking durable. All it has to do is transfer a current, and it can do that even if it looks like shit. The only way the pins can fail to do their job is if they're actually rusted/corroded enough to not make contact, and even then you can usually just tin over the corroded parts with a soldering iron. The only way you can't do that is if you've somehow managed to completely tear the pins out of the board itself, which is a feat.

Anon's pins look like they could benefit from a good cleaning, but other than that, he can worry about replacing the board if his game ever stops working.

[Anonymous No.3675412]

>>3675278
I think it was due to the nature of the bromine damage on my particular consoles, but I got a very inconsistent and streaky looking finish on both. I think it could also be that the weather was too warm when I did the treatment and this negatively affected the Retrobrite.

From what I can tell, Retrobrite works very well on white plastic, so if you have a Famicom or a Dreamcast by all means give it a go. It worked great on my Dreamcast. Gray plastics can be a bit more challenging though and I think weather conditions can have a lot to do with it. I'd like to try using Retrobrite on my C64 but I'm not going to risk it unless I can be certain that I've perfected the process.

[Anonymous No.3675415]

>>3675293
I had some other repair jobs that I had to get done so I haven't started on it yet. I would love to do it this week although I need to look up the directions.

[Anonymous No.3675567]

>>3674618
>>3675253
Took everything apart and everything looks clean and unmolested. No corrosion on any traces or leaky caps or anything. Also Cleaned the hucard slot but it was clean and made no difference. I read that the rf ports sometimes break so I made my own composite cable and hooked it up to the composite and ground pins on the expansion port with female crimp adapters and the video is the same, still messed up.
I'm thinking it's got to be the huc6270 or 6260 chip. Unless anyone has any ideas? Does anyone even sell replacement chips or would I have to go buy a parts system? At that point it just seems like a waste to hack up one system to fix another.
I was just using it a few weeks ago and it was perfect. Makes no sense.

[Anonymous No.3676540]

bump

[Anonymous No.3676658]

>>3659464
Rgb

[Anonymous No.3676660]

>>3675567
It might be the RAM.

And there are people that sell parts for the PC engine but removing and soldering those chips on are a pain

[Anonymous No.3676686]

>>3676660
That's what I'm thinking but I was hoping it could have been something else.
Also just reflowed every solder point on the bottom of the pc engine board but it didn't help.
This sucks.
I found a video of someone replacing the chips and he posted a link to a site that sells them seperately but for the cost of the tool I would need to desolder the chips and the chips themselves + shipping I could buy two more pc engine consoles.
I guess I'm just going to buy another console and keep this one off to the side until I come across a destroyed console I can take parts from.
No idea how this thing could have fried itself.

[Anonymous No.3676695]

>>3676686
http://gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_21_123&products_id=2165

$8 for 2 ram chips if you can install them then go for it.

[Anonymous No.3676816]

Anybody ever replace a laser diode in a laser assembly before?

[Anonymous No.3676820]

>>3676816
If you mean the pick up and entire thing yes.

If you mean the diode inside the laser, no.

[Anonymous No.3676832]

>>3676820
I mean the diode inside. Trying to see if i can salvage the pickup from a rare console.
Is it usually the laser diode itself, or the sensor part that goes bad on consoles?

[Anonymous No.3676839]

>>3676832
It's usually the diode

What system are you talking about?

[Anonymous No.3676841]

>>3676839
Laseractive

[Anonymous No.3676852]

>>3676841
What would be easier is to salvage a working laser unit off another unit. You're some what in luck and it seems it can take a list of them

http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4434.0

[Anonymous No.3676854]

>>3676852
Yeah I saw that, and was eyeing one on ebay. I just like to do things the hard way because it's more fun.

[Anonymous No.3676857]

>>3676854
You won't be able salvage a laser diode. They're far to small for hand work.

Your best bet would to be an entire working unit.

[Anonymous No.3676968]

>>3676686
I found a video of someone buying a PCE for five bucks. I'll find another one next time I hit the flee market. Being white is awesome but living there sucks balls.

[Anonymous No.3676973]

>>3676816
I have. Many times. It's not hard but the aftermath can be. There's a reason most people use the whole shit.

[Anonymous No.3676986]

>>3676857
I took a peek and saw that it's still producing light. Maybe there's some sort of fuckery with the lenses.

[Anonymous No.3677136]

>>3676986
Its always worth it to clean the lenses and test again.

[Anonymous No.3678063]

>yfw repairing old consoles in your mancave

[Anonymous No.3678645]

>>3678063
That's why I have a separate room for that shit. I sleep better at night knowing that the drunk/stupid fuck sleeping on the couch in the man cave isn't going to harm s/h/its self using the CNC drill for things the developers never originally intended.

[Anonymous No.3680451]

Bump

[Anonymous No.3680461]

Is the PS1 always noisy when the disc's spinning?

[Anonymous No.3681058]

>>3680461
wat do

[Anonymous No.3681196]

got a sega sports dreamcast recently, booted it up and the sound is normal but the video comes up with black screen with a white rectangle flickering on and off in the corner, then after it shows the dreamcast logo but 10x slower then normal
not sure what the cause of this could be

[Anonymous No.3682735]

>>3681058

Buy a new Playstation.

[Anonymous No.3682814]

>>3659464
just hooked up my ps1 after a while, the video is fine (for an old shit on a new tv) but the audio wont come out, i doubt its the cable since the video is 100% fine even wen i move it and i doubt that both audio channels would be faucked if the video one isnt.
does anyone have any ideas waht the problem could be? coudl it be somthing on the mobo?

[Anonymous No.3682821]

>>3682814
you dont have one extra cable to test it with? ps1/ps2/ps3 use same cables (besides component cables since ps1 doesn't support it)

[Anonymous No.3682827]

>>3682821
sadly no, im gogint to try on another tv as the output red cable input has a metel part broken off into kids are retarded as fuck, never have them so i think it might be fucking it up some how.
was just wondering if it was known for the audio part of the mobo to have issues but i guess not since google hasnt said much about it.
so would any pal ps3 cable work or do i need a spesific version, just goign after the ps3 because i think there will be alot of them compared to the ps2/1 cables
aslo sorry for the shit sentance structuring iv had a lil bit to drink

[Anonymous No.3682838]

>>3682827
>>3682827
As I said, as long as its not a component cable.
https://www.amazon.com/PS3-Component-AV-Cable-Playstation-3/dp/B000MIXFWA
so not this

[Anonymous No.3682846]

>>3682838
>https://www.amazon.com/PS3-Component-AV-Cable-Playstation-3/dp/B000MIXFWA
yeah was just gonna go the standard 3 RYW cable, cheers for the help man

[Anonymous No.3682887]

Just finished an ags101 swap. Glorious.

[Anonymous No.3682905]

>>3680461

So, nobody can answer this question?

[Anonymous No.3682912]

>>3682905
If your PS1 works then i don't see what the problem is. The quality of the laser units in these things vary greatly depending on your model.

[Anonymous No.3682916]

how much would a psx (thats the original square one yeah?) with a chip, 3 controllers and a memory card be woth now days?

[Anonymous No.3682919]

>>3682912

I'm asking to find out if there's a problem, obviously. If it's normal then there isn't a problem, but I won't know if it's a problem until somebody answers my question. It's a SCPH-5500.

[Anonymous No.3682920]

>>3682919
No, its not uncommon for a PS1 to make a lot of nose reading a disk. If you want to reduce the noise a bit, open it up and grease the moving parts.

Spinning a disk on the other hand might indicate that it's off balance.

[Anonymous No.3682924]

>>3682920

Okay, the disc spinning makes a sort of wobbling sound that sounds like it might be off-balance. Is there a way to fix that without replacing the laser?

[Anonymous No.3682930]

>>3682924
You could try replacing the spindle or removing it and making sure it's straight.

But that noise is fine so long as its not scratching your CDS

[Anonymous No.3682937]

>>3682930

Oh, okay, thanks. It doesn't sound like it's scratching them, so I'll just leave it alone for now. Thanks for easing my mind.

[Anonymous No.3683073]

>>3667615
>>3668342
Bumping this since i still haven't gotten an answer

[Anonymous No.3684047]

>>3682887
Good job, and welcome to the AGS-101 screen mod club. I love mine!

[Anonymous No.3684540]

Is it normal for an NES game to not have pins on every part of the pin connector part?
I bought Castlevania III and it looks like it's missing pins, but I don't know if this is normal. It's only missing 3 or so.

[Anonymous No.3684554]

>>3684540
Yes, some games don't have some pins in the middle. Also, famicom carts only have 60 pins.