/CRT/ Thread : George Foreman edition

[Anonymous No.3634558]

Previous thread >>3597542

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+ Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP) : http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x (Update ETA - Soon™)
An Anon's Guide to CRT Hunting : http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
An Anon's Guide to differentiating RGB Monitors:http://pastebin.com/pQX4N6gZ
S-Video Pasta : http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
BKM-10R Protocol Information : http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J

/crt/ Discord Server : https://discord.gg/EFWPCYE
/crt/ Thread Master List : http://pastebin.com/GPqvkwX5 (Links to be updated soon)

Thread Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd1HF1jPaNTZDupCn_GGtFuB3DxW5WFFd3yT4znmLA_cuU5oA/viewform
Collaborative Consumer CRT Project Survey : https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd3_OraDPRRN_OzQ4r_-CqoNPR9J0r2KtFrpV6iuXdxM3DDJg/viewform

[Anonymous No.3634602]

>>3634558
I was about to tear you apart for referring to a JVC as aperture grille then I remembered that the DTV line did actually have them.

Carry on.

[Anonymous No.3634709]

My Sega Saturn's OS menu seems a bit grainy on Scart RGB, like a bad cable or something but when I'm in-game I can't seem to see the issue anymore. Am I the only one with this weird issue?

[Anonymous No.3634743]

new pickup. B&W

[Anonymous No.3634747]

back. Ikegami PVM-96

[Anonymous No.3634751]

>>3634709
like this ?

[Anonymous No.3634768]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ntY_4x2hBk

[Anonymous No.3634775]

Is that guy here, who posted a pic of Mario World on a big CRT (from an oblique angle)? I used that pic as my wallpaper and forgot to back it up when I had to reinstall Windows.

[Anonymous No.3634861]

>>3634775
Got on my HDD at home, next time I'm at the house I'll post it.

[Anonymous No.3634920]

>>3634743
>>3634747
That thing looks mint as fuck.

What are your plans for it?

[Anonymous No.3634969]

>>3634775

Not sure if I'm the guy you're talking about but I'll post this here anyway in case it is what you were talking about.

[Anonymous No.3635075]

Eyeing an HD 20" Ikegami monitor, Would be my first HD pro CRT, 4:3 but 95% of what I play would be 4:3. Very tempting. Hopefully it's still around when I get paid next week.

[Anonymous No.3635091]

>>3634969
It was more like this, but thanks.

[Anonymous No.3635093]

Looking for a repair shop in my area that can realign a sagged yoke and calibrate my Wega has been difficult since every place I've been able to get ahold of only works on HD TV's.

[Anonymous No.3635095]

>>3634861
If it looks like this, then yes you must be the guy! Much obliged.
>>3635091

[Anonymous No.3635216]

Say I have a monitor which only accepts raw sync, would it be feasible to incorporate an LM1881-based sync stripper to that input?

I'd rather not have an external box or be forced to modify my consoles' cables.

[Anonymous No.3635434]

Low end (crappy brands) flat CRTs have worse geometry (bowing, linearity) and deflection (focus, convergence) than high end flat CRTs.

As far as I know, curved CRTs don't have these problems.

Then in what ways are low end curved CRTs worse than high end curved CRTs?
In other words, why should you avoid low end curved CRTs?

[Anonymous No.3635437]

Reposting old stuff

[Anonymous No.3635439]

>>3635437

[Anonymous No.3635442]

>>3635439

[Anonymous No.3635447]

>>3635442

[Anonymous No.3635450]

>>3635447

[Anonymous No.3635452]

>>3635450

[Anonymous No.3635456]

>>3635452
That's all for now. It's a 27inch Toshiba, though I don't remember the model off hand. You guys have any colorful Genesis games to reccomend for nice images? I already had Dynamite Heady in mind.

[Anonymous No.3635496]

one of my favorite games on my 2950Q

[Anonymous No.3635501]

>>3635496
and a closeup of the in game sprite

[Anonymous No.3635524]

>>3635496
>>3635501
Cool. I just picked up a 2950 myself. Nice to have a bigger screen again after a succession of 20" BVMs.

What's the game?

[Anonymous No.3635768]

so i got this bvm in addition to some other monitors recently.

the screen is sort of out of alignment, the convergence is messed up. i could fix it if i could get the side panels open, but they require a key i don't have. i haven't found the key on ebay or anything. how do i get these panels open?

[Anonymous No.3635810]

>>3635768
Where'd ya pick em up anon?

[Anonymous No.3635817]

>>3634709
>Scart RGB
>Scart
Found your problem.

[Anonymous No.3635854]

So switches don't induce lag but they do degrade the picture quality. Am I getting this right? I'm looking to get a pelican system selector pro pl-957, what do y'all think of it?

[Anonymous No.3635863]

>>3635817
I finally found source for buying 4 core multicoaxial 75 Ohm cable locally, and will rewire all my consoles for VGA connector to Extron MVX switch.
Are you happy for me, anti-SCART anon?

[Anonymous No.3635875]

>>3635093
Get yourself a pattern generator and a service manual so you can do it yourself.

[Anonymous No.3635881]

>>3635434
>Then in what ways are low end curved CRTs worse than high end curved CRTs?
Geometry, voltage regulation, blooming, color accuracy, convergence, focus, and resolution.

[Anonymous No.3635882]

>>3635496
>Coleco Chameleon
kek

[Anonymous No.3635883]

>>3635768
That is the most fucked up convergence I have ever seen.

[Anonymous No.3635905]

>>3635810
video art gallery

>>3635883
i'd really like it fix it but with the panel sides locked i can't get at all the controls. i'm no lockpick

[Anonymous No.3635996]

I've been eyeing a 20" HD ikegami CRT. Would love to run pretty much everything up to gen 6 on it.

[Anonymous No.3636029]

>>3635434

To indirectly answer you

If PVM/BVM/pro monitors and pro pc monitors(think fw900) are the best CRTS. Then right behind them are the more expensive well made curved crts (bang and olufsen type stuff, mits and sony have a few too that were thousands new) and a good chunk of pc crt monitors fall in behind those (mostly the ones that do 75+hz at 1600x1200 or better). Behind that would be high end flat crts (can anyone say sony?).

For the most part any of those I recommend. Lower end flat, mid low end flat, low end or smaller curved, etc. It is on a per tv basis for those. There are too many anomalies to say all low end curved are bad. (specifically speaking, there is a sharp 2003-2005 curved that has a vga input on it. does 800x600 and every one I have ran into has no actual issues. TV new was 250-500)

The good thing is for the most part the worst or shittiest tvs are free or long since dead. The bad thing is normies toss out good tvs with easily fixable issues. Also the chance of needing to fix a 36 inch wega you find for free on CL is high.

[Anonymous No.3636031]

>>3635905
Im not a locksmith. But I can tell you that lock type is a set type lock. Meaning that even if you found a key out there that works for another anon with that set, it probably won't work for you.

If you have the proper drill and bits, drill it.

[Anonymous No.3636036]

>>3636029
y'all niggas place too much emphasis on sony sets. NEC, Ikegami, Bang & Olufsen, Bosch are all superb manufacturers who in many ways surpassed Sony's products. Ikegami absolutely comes to mind as a serious competitor, possible superior to everything Sony has.

[Anonymous No.3636126]

>>3636036
>b&o
was overpriced hipster shit. And often comes with image processing. Cold be nice with video but utter shit with games

[Anonymous No.3636304]

I have plenty of retro games but no one to play them with.
How do you find someone to play retro games with?

[Anonymous No.3636318]

>>3636126
>>3636036
B&O didn't make their own tubes, they used Phillips tubes. For retro games they are pretty nice since RGB was standard on every model.

[Anonymous No.3636339]

>tfw 20 year old PVMs are now starting to darken, and need their Cathode Ray Tubes replaced
>shit is getting expensive as fuck, and isn't super easy to do

CRTs are dying bros.

[Anonymous No.3636340]

>>3636339
It depends on hours of use, but yeah. I use my CRT like 10 hours a day most of the time and it's been heavily used since the 90s.

[Anonymous No.3636365]

>>3636339
>tfw 20 year old PVMs are now starting to darken, and need their Cathode Ray Tubes replaced
More like rejuvenated, the process that makes tubes darker is reversible with the right device.

[Anonymous No.3636392]

>>3635905
I have this pic saved from another anon, if you want to get a key cut. If I owned a 14" BVM I would try 3d printing one.

[Anonymous No.3636464]

>>3636318
B&O and Loewe are litteraly MUH DESIGN overpriced brands

[Anonymous No.3636506]

>>3634558
Which is good


CRT tv or CRT monitor? I've been thinking about getting a monitor but I'm not sure where.

[Anonymous No.3636508]

>>3636506
For what? What kind of monitor?

[Anonymous No.3636513]

>>3636508
I don't know nigga this is my first time looking for one. Any monitor I guess. A big or smell one

[Anonymous No.3636519]

>>3635905
Who the fuck locks the internals of a TV?

[Anonymous No.3636552]

>>3636392
You can actually make a useable copy by printing out that picture 1:1 and cutting up a soda can to match. 2 ply works best.

[Anonymous No.3636557]

>>3636506
Do you own actual consoles?

[Anonymous No.3636559]

>>3636519
For one it's not a TV

The engineer responsible for setting the thing up probably wants to keep meddling cunts out in case they cause the Superbowl to be broadcast with every player looking like a darkie.

Oh wait...

[Anonymous No.3636560]

How come people here never post shots from 8bit games?

[Anonymous No.3636564]

>>3636519
>tv
because you don't want someone touching this once it's calibrated.

[Anonymous No.3636568]

>>3636560
because most of the time 8bit=nes and nes is stuck with composhit unless modded.
but I do have some nesrgb and sms shots.

[Anonymous No.3636570]

>>3636506
>reposting a shot of my Commodore 1085S monitor.
Nice to see that someone found it good enough to be worth saving.
Anyway, a CRT TV is fine as long as it has more than RF. Even composite can be okay (unless you're planning to use a megadrive), though s-video or RGB are a better options (the latter being easy to find a set that accept it only if you're in yuroland).

[Anonymous No.3636574]

>>3636568

[Anonymous No.3636578]

[Anonymous No.3636586]

[Anonymous No.3636592]

[Anonymous No.3636609]

>>3636559
>in case they cause the Superbowl to be broadcast with every player looking like a darkie.
But it's just a monitor - its settings won't affect how it looks going out.

[Anonymous No.3636629]

>>3636557
Of course I do, don't be prejudice.

[Anonymous No.3636636]

>>3636629
Then you want a PVM.

[Anonymous No.3636637]

>>3636365
Eventually they ware out, no matter what you do.

[Anonymous No.3636640]

>>3636609
>Oh no everything is blown out on the camera feed
>Let me just adjust things until it looks good

>Everyone looks like sandniggers now

That's how shit gets fucked up.

[Anonymous No.3636778]

>>3635768
these locks are actually really, really cheap. Just use something like a tweezer, small knife or similar, stick it into the lock, wiggle a bit and try to turn it. I picked the lock of mit 2011p this way. No need for violence!

[Anonymous No.3636780]

>>3635905
don't listen to the voices, anon. These locks are easy to pick, trust me!

[Anonymous No.3636786]

>>3636031
that's complete bullshit. Don't drill into your BVM. It's absolutely unnecessary and may even damage it. Me and another guy i know picked the locks of two BVM-2011P which are asbolutely identical. I used one side of a tweezer, the other guy used a small knife.

[Anonymous No.3636803]

>>3636513
>for what?
>i don't know

yes you do, otherwise you wouldn't be asking for a CRT. Answer what it is for.

[Anonymous No.3637282]

post more pvm memes

[Anonymous No.3637358]

Are Mitsubishi Ultrablack curved CRT TVs good?
How do they compare to semi-flat Trinitrons?

[Anonymous No.3637375]

>>3636636
Disregard this, PVMs are for faggots.

[Anonymous No.3637740]

What's the best way for two guys to carry a 36' 238 pound tv? One guy is really strong the other isn't. Needs to be walked down and upstairs.

[Anonymous No.3637840]

>>3637740
industrial strength suction cups, strong guy on the bottom steps.

>>3637375
poorfag can't afford a 13" $80 monitor and thinks pvms are the only pro monitors

[Anonymous No.3637860]

>>3637840
>industrial strength suction cups
Any recommendations?

[Anonymous No.3637868]

>>3637860
Never used them, but it's what I see when others mention moving CRTs successfully with all their bones in-tact. Try looking into it, maybe there's some well reviewed items on amazon you can check out.

[Anonymous No.3638125]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182361386563
!!!

Just for reference I picked up a 2950 on there for £40 BIN a couple of weeks back. 8" extra screen space, IR capability, electronic chassis adjustments and over 200 quid in my back pocket...

[Anonymous No.3638214]

>>3636564
Fair play, I stand corrected. Now I want a go on the secret control panel, just because it's forbidden fruit.

[Anonymous No.3638304]

Is it possible to connect my pc to a PVM and use emulators?

[Anonymous No.3638402]

Anyone know if I can hook up a PS1 and PS2 to a VGA monitor? Id like to avoid any physical modification if thats possible?

[Anonymous No.3638421]

>>3635216
Anyone?

I guess it comes down to whether it is preferable to sync strip the signal closer to the source or not. Probably not a big deal but I wouldn't mind a second opinion nonetheless.

[Anonymous No.3638440]

>>3635216
use a manual switch box to connect all your systems to the monitor then incorporate the LM1881 in a box so that your composite video runs through the circuit. Only need to make on for all your systems that way. I got all my Sega, and Playstations running through one. No need to go behind the NEC XP29 when I switch systems just flip the switch

[Anonymous No.3638478]

>>3638440
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the suggestion which is a valid one but possibly not ideal for my particular situation.

Thing is I'm pretty heavily invested in Extron switches and processors at this point and out of half a dozen displays this is the only one which won't take composite video as sync.

Hence I'd rather just mod the input rather than introducing yet more boxes and cabling.

[Anonymous No.3638625]

Why doesn't FFVI use the whole crt screen (why are there black borders)?

[Anonymous No.3638630]

Anyone try RGB modding a consumer NTSC CRT?

[Anonymous No.3638660]

>>3637282
dude check out my bomb ass set up.

[Anonymous No.3638680]

>>3638625
because snes a shit.
for real.

[Anonymous No.3638756]

How do I calibrate a consumer crt?

The options i have are:

Brightness
Contrast
Colour
Sharpness
Tint

[Anonymous No.3638767]

>>3638756
color bars
blue filter

[Anonymous No.3638804]

>>3634920

This'll be my pre-NES tv I think. Pong in black and white. Test out that B&W switch on my Atari 2600.

[Anonymous No.3638823]

>>3637740

> One guy is really strong the other isn't.

it you

[Anonymous No.3638892]

>>3638823
Yes I'm the not very strong fellow. Mission accomplished though. Sliced my finger open carrying it down the stairs and lost a good chunk of skin. Should take about a month to heal.

Paid some junkies to move the tv from the van to the second floor

[Anonymous No.3639048]

>>3637740
get gloves
>>3638892
guess it's too late, those junkies just scoped your place too.

[Anonymous No.3639102]

Here's a thread theme for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJudRvR3FBk

[Anonymous No.3639121]

>>3638892
Next time save your fingers and get a forearm forklift. even little blonde women can move big heavy shit if they use these

[Anonymous No.3639209]

>>3639121
How did I never see these before?

Fucking genius!

[Anonymous No.3639225]

>>3639121
Where do you even find these anymore?

[Anonymous No.3639256]

>>3639209
>>3639225
amazon and the bay. home depot and maybe walmart if you gotta pick it up in store

[Anonymous No.3639315]

>>3639225
Most U-Haul locations should have them.

Source: I work there.

Though appliance dollies work great too. Used them for moving large sets in the past. Just make sure you cover the front to avoid scratches.

[Anonymous No.3639424]

>>3639121

I looked at these for moving my 36inch trinitron. I watched a whole video on them, looks like the work great. I've seen the straps used before, though those were with a harness. I think those are far more heavy duty than these.

[Anonymous No.3639456]

>>3638625
Black borders on a game means less graphics to draw which means game rubs better.

[Anonymous No.3639470]

>>3639456
So the monitor is still at 260p or whatever? It's just that the snes is drawing less of the screen, sort of like what happens when you change the window size in doom?

[Anonymous No.3639590]

What are some easy fixed I could try to reduce ghosting on my set?

[Anonymous No.3639852]

>>3639470
The system always outputs a 480i signal (although only half the lines are used so its 240p). A game which is bordered is technically running at a lower resolution - like how doom does it. There is less stuff to render on each frame so it can process the data at a stable rate.

[Anonymous No.3639969]

>>3636574
wat game

[Anonymous No.3640081]

>>3638630
Technically it could be done on any set - see >>3638991 - but recombining the luminance and chrominance elements would be non-trivial.

A slightly easier way is to tap into the circuit used to drive the OSD on more modern sets. These always use RGB afaik.

[Anonymous No.3640449]

>>3639969
Ultima IV

[Anonymous No.3640486]

So I got a KD-VTCA3. I tried some xrandr settings to get 240p from my linux box to my TV. The two settings I tried are

xrandr --newmode “240p” 31.96 1920 1952 2072 2104 240 245 248 253 -HSync -VSync
xrandr --newmode “240p” 5.979 320 332 368 380 240 242 246 263 +CSync

Both have their own problems. The first one gives a rapid scrolling screen and won't sync. the second one will sync but it has awful colour problems, alignment is fucked, and it rolls when certain colours are on screen. What's going on?

[Anonymous No.3640571]

>>3640081

Could the RGB signal from a Genesis be routed directly into the OSD RGB inputs?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3640683]

>>3639852
>only half the lines are used so its 240p
All lines are being used for 240p, they only difference is the two fields that make up a standard 480i signal are offset and together make a single frame, where as with 240p this offset is removed and each field is treated as it's own individual frame.

>>3640486
>it has awful colour problems, alignment is fucked, and it rolls when certain colours are on screen.
A completely random guess would be that you're timings are off and that some of the active video is showing up during blanking, which in turn is fucking with sync at times.

>>3640081
>recombining the luminance and chrominance elements would be non-trivial.
You start with RGB and end in RGB, even thinking that you'd need to mess with luma or chroma signals is silly. It'd more involved than this, but all you need to worry about is getting your signal levels correct for feeding to the final stage amplifiers as well as synchronization.

>>3640571
Difficulty depends on the set being used and what it's using for it's jungle IC, but it could be as easy as a few passive components(a few capacitors/resistors) for proper termination and a switch to go back and forth between the OSD and your RGB input of choice, and the switch wouldn't even technically be required if you didn't care about anything aside from just that RGB input.

[Anonymous No.3640714]

Are there CRT monitors with DVI port or newer graphics card port ? are they expensive ?

[Anonymous No.3640762]

>>3640683
>Difficulty depends on the set being used and what it's using for it's jungle IC, but it could be as easy as a few passive components(a few capacitors/resistors) for proper termination and a switch to go back and forth between the OSD and your RGB input of choice, and the switch wouldn't even technically be required if you didn't care about anything aside from just that RGB input.

So if you don't install the switch then you can't go into the TV menu, even if the RGB console is off?

[Anonymous No.3640768]

>>3640714
Most DVI ports can output VGA with an adapter

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3640778]

>>3640762
No, as you're replacing the one with the other. Leaving both the OSD and your patched in RGB input connected simultaneously could lead to signal reflections at best and damage to one or the other at worst. You also wouldn't be able to use the other inputs available to the TV as the OSD(RGB) input would be blanking it entirely(as if you had the OSD up at all times, over the entire screen.

>>3640768
Only if they're DVI-A or DVI-I, the former of which hasn't been actually used for a while and the latter is no longer on modern cards as for the 400 and 1000 series respectively.
I'm pretty sure there are 900 series cards with DVI-I and positively sure that there are 300 series cards with it.

R9 380x is the best you can get from AMD that still has DVI-I as far as I know. Kept putting it off grabbing one, and now kicking myself a bit.

>>3640714
Just about all CRT PC monitors only have RGB, be it via HD15, 5BNC or otherwise. There are some HDCRT TVs that have HDMI/DVI, but they're limited in what they can actually do and have input lag.

Not the best of alternatives, but for Display Port and the like, there are relatively decent converters for getting standard VGA, but they're not quite as capable as a GPU with a built in RAMDAC(i.e, VGA output in some form).

[Anonymous No.3641660]

What's the best CRT or PVM for N64? Also where the fuck can I find one. I hate that they're so hard to find.

[Anonymous No.3641683]

>>3641660
ebay, hospitals, tv studios. for n64? Something in the 13" area. Need to mod N64 to get good results tho.

[Anonymous No.3641828]

>>3641683
Like, you just roll up to a hospital and ask?

[Anonymous No.3641837]

>>3641828

Only place you'll find them for sale is 2nd hand sites (ebay, craigslist, the like) which usually upmarks the prices at least twice the market value.

So yeah, unless you wanna pay way over the odds, or luck out on Craigslist (found a 20m2mdu for $100 a few months ago) your best bet is to go to areas where these types of monitors were used and hope they've got some shit they never got rid of after the HD switch

[Anonymous No.3641849]

[Anonymous No.3641856]

>>3641849
vs $5 and a shit phone camera

[Anonymous No.3641861]

>>3635817
Fact: SCART only sucks if you buy those cheap unshielded cables from china.

[Anonymous No.3642165]

You know how Asteroids Deluxe cabinets have that cool effect where the image is a Pepper's Ghost effect (a reflection of a CRT hidden under the controls, so the image looks like it's floating in space), and behind the image is a cutout glowing under a blacklight? (https://youtu.be/pEvQCLhkwGg))

If I were to build that type of effect on my own (using a PVM, and for different games), how much brightness and vividness would I be losing, compared to looking at the monitor directly like usual? I think NES games would look amazing just floating there like holograms, but I wouldn't do it if I would be sacrificing color or brightness significantly in the process.

[Anonymous No.3642210]

>>3639256
what looks like a nice way to have a brutal accident and break your arms

[Anonymous No.3642224]

>>3640768
>>3640778
Thanks for the replies
So theres no practical difference from RGB to DVI in CRTs, other than the shape of the connector ?
I actually like CRTs both for retrogaming and recent games, thats why i wanted the newest port possible, but if HDMI gives input lag, fuck that

[Anonymous No.3642229]

>>3642224
DVI-I carries VGA RGBHV signals along the digital ones. It's the pins around the cross, the adapter is just re-routing them to an HD-15

So if you have DVI-D (without the cross), there's only digital signal and the adapter will do nothing.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3642240]

>>3642224
>So theres no practical difference from RGB to DVI in CRTs, other than the shape of the connector ?
No, that is incorrect. There are different versions of DVI which offer different signals depending on which version they are. DVI-D is all that the newest of cards have if they have DVI at all, and is essentially the exact same as HDMI except over a different connector.

DVI-A and DVI-I both offer the same signals that the older VGA connectors offered for compatibility's sake with older monitors. The former hasn't been used in a while, and they've just with the most recent generation of GPUs retired the latter. That is, DVI on AMD's 400 cards or Nvidia's 1000 cards will NOT work for PC CRTs with out extra hardware.

If your GPU had a DVI connector that looks like the top two(likely) or bottom connector(unlikely), it'll work with PC CRTs with just that simple dongle in >>3640768.


>but if HDMI gives input lag, fuck that
It isn't so much HDMI itself that gives input lag as it is the displays that have HDMI support have input lag.

Well, that isn't entirely correct either, as the Digital to Analog conversion required to go from HDMI to RGB for the CRT WOULD add a bit of delay, but that's just splitting hairs in this situation.

[Anonymous No.3642301]

>>3640683
>A completely random guess would be that you're timings are off and that some of the active video is showing up during blanking, which in turn is fucking with sync at times.
Thanks for getting back to me. I tried adjusting some sync settings and managed to obtain stable vsync with the 1920x240 option under linux, but anything drawn to the far left side caused horizontal scrolling which alternated directions. I tried many settings but didn't have success keeping stable hsync.

I've given up on using my existing stuff to get it all working and I'll just order a cheap ati HD card to use with CRTemudriver under windows.

[Anonymous No.3642307]

>>3641660
There's a pasta in the OP specifically about PVM/RGB monitor hunting. Click the link and give it a read.

[Anonymous No.3642328]

>>3638660

This is what the Johnny-come-latelies have been reduced to, insisting that a tiny no-RGB Sony PVM is A-OK for them just so they can feel accepted in the retro crowd by playing on a model of the meme monitor.

[Anonymous No.3642497]

>>3641828
no, you can call, try to speak to a technician, they do keep these things in storage. Try to arrange something with the tech for example. They don't really do anything with the monitors, they are likely never going to decide "damn we need to switch back to these 640x480 displays for superior blacks and perfect 240p"

[Anonymous No.3642513]

>>3634558
What are some good 15 inch CRTs? I have this crappy 13 inch one from a brand named "Daewoo" from 2004 and the buttons get mixed up with one another.

[Anonymous No.3642673]

>>3642513
mostly japanese brands like sony, panasonic, mitsubishi, NEC, etc. If you want professional stuff, look for sony ofc and ikegami.

[Anonymous No.3643257]

What can be done about inconsistent RGB convergence of a CRT monitor? When adjusting (using the standard user menu convergence controls) with an appropriate test image, no optimal convergence can be achieved everywhere at the same time, meaning that some parts of the picture will stay less sharp than others. Is this fixable somehow, or is this a result of irreversible wear?

Also, what is a good methodology for optimization of a CRT monitor? What configuration/calibration/maintenance can/should be done to achieve optimal picture quality?

[Anonymous No.3643390]

>>3643257
https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm

[Anonymous No.3643392]

Would you guys pay $300 for a barely used PVM 1953MD?

[Anonymous No.3643402]

>>3643392
Hell no

[Anonymous No.3643597]

>>3643392
So it's 19"? Yeah probably, once I had the money.

[Anonymous No.3643795]

>>3643392
I feel like this is what you see them go for or more. It depends on how bad you want it and how scarce your area is.

[Anonymous No.3643845]

>>3643390
Given that it's not a TV set but a monitor, wouldn't http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/monfaq.htm be more applicable?

[Anonymous No.3643926]

>>3643392
$300? Yeah. I'm more interested in getting a good HD one for 720p.

[Anonymous No.3643927]

Attention Perth, Australia fags, six PVM 14M4As just went up for auction on Grays

http://www.graysonline.com/sale/9005381/audio-tv-home-theatre/unreserved-channel-nine-relocation-sale-stage-3

[Anonymous No.3644087]

What's do you guys think of LGs?

I have a "Cinemaster Champ" like pic, it's the only TV I've ever had in +10 years and It has never broke or given me any mainteinance problems.

[Anonymous No.3644313]

>>3634558

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u-IfUaSWEc

[Anonymous No.3644361]

does anyone know if Toshiba mw20fp1 is any good for nes gaming?
I have the tv but wondering if it's worth to buy a nes + games for a retro setup.

[Anonymous No.3644372]

>>3644087
my tv is better
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSqpKe7sVvw

[Anonymous No.3644841]

sony BVM D14H5U, Panzer Dragoon Saga.

[Anonymous No.3644846]

[Anonymous No.3644847]

[Anonymous No.3644849]

>>3634558
Anybody no a good method of finding a 25" CRT suitable for CPS3 games? Thinking about building a Third Strike cabinet for my local arcade. These fuckers need some Q in their lives.

[Anonymous No.3644850]

[Anonymous No.3644902]

>>3644361
Should be fine. It's a CRT. NES only outputs in crap composite at best. One CRT is no better than any other, as long as it's in good condition.

Most later-model Toshiba CRTs were actually pretty good, though.

[Anonymous No.3644906]

>>3642328
I found a PVM for free a while ago and stopped looking, but god damn, the prices have shot up even more in just the last year. Absolutely insane.

Also, unrelated, but why is a Framemeister so much more expensive? They were under 300 a while back when I was considering getting one just for shits, but now they're over twice as much. Did they stop making them? Or is this just the market realizing they can prey on the casuals with disposable income even more?

[Anonymous No.3644927]

>>3644906
monopoly in a niche market.
hopefully OSSC brings things down

[Anonymous No.3645182]

>>3644361

>TV ,VHS and DVD player in one unit

That's rad!

Does the VHS and DVD player still works?

[Anonymous No.3646267]

>>3644361

Beautiful! I would snatch it up and use it as a test monitor + fun time video player. Something I'd keep in my workshop for shits.

[Anonymous No.3646316]

>>3638892
Do y'all want to see the gore or the tv?

[Anonymous No.3646328]

>>3635091
Any news on the genuine version of this?

[Anonymous No.3646343]

Threadly reminder. S Video/composite/RF/component are for cucks who can't RGB mod their shitty set.

[Anonymous No.3646347]

[Anonymous No.3646352]

>>3644902
relieved to hear any old crt will do for nes gaming, planning on building a cabinet around this little tv.

>>3645182
yup! here it is playing Wallace and Gromit in VHC

>>3646267
that is what I've been mainly using it for, watching old disney vhc tapes lol

[Anonymous No.3646410]

How would an old 4:3 , 480p TV do? Would it lag when playing original consoles at 240p? How about playing virtual console via the Wii in 480p?

[Anonymous No.3646469]

>>3646410
it would handle 480p signals just fine - blacks would be blue and there's gonna be lag. It would butcher 240p signals. Do not go LCD.

[Anonymous No.3646501]

I have a Thinkpad X201 laptop with Intel HD 3000 integrated graphics.

I also have a 20" PC CRT monitor that I know will support 320x240p @ 120hz.

Is it possible to use software to program a custom modeline for my laptop to have it output 320x204p @ 120hz to the monitor? Or should I not even bother?

If so, what are my other options? I have tried some shaders in 1600x1200 mode and they look decent.

[Anonymous No.3646516]

CRTemudriver question.

Can I use CRTemudriver with an NES emulator and get true scanlines (not a shitty filter; genuine "double-strike" as Nintendo would call it; actual progressive scan)? Or is CRTemudriver only for playing MAME games? Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.3646518]

>>3646501
if your drivers support the resolution, it should be fine. Also you want 640x240 (ntsc horizontal, half vertical) for classic games.

[Anonymous No.3646537]

>>3646410
it will both lag input wise and it will lag on screen
those old 4:3 tvs are all small

a modern lcd tv is much better, just put it in a pillarbox you retard

[Anonymous No.3646596]

>>3646518
I am running Xubuntu

Is it as easy as adding the modeline to my xorg.conf file?

[Anonymous No.3646613]

>>3646316
Why not both?

[Anonymous No.3646617]

>>3646410
>LCD
Into the trash it goes.

[Anonymous No.3646628]

>>3646613
Alright well here's the gore. It went through several layers of skin, looks bad from the side.

[Anonymous No.3646643]

>>3646596
>Is it as easy as adding the modeline to my xorg.conf file?
Possibly. You may, however, need to also add an option to disable mode validation (check your driver's documentation). If you do, make sure that both the horizontal and vertical scan rates are within the manufacturer's specified range for your monitor.

[Anonymous No.3646767]

SNES RGB-to-YUV converted input on a KV-20FS100

[Anonymous No.3646795]

>>3646767
gorgeous. can we get a shot of the famous typewriter?

[Anonymous No.3646827]

>>3646795

Not atm, but I can do the courtroom scene

[Anonymous No.3646829]

>>3646827

Forgot pic lol

[Anonymous No.3646848]

>>3634558
>CRTs

Love, love, LOVE this meme. :')

[Anonymous No.3646892]

>>3646767
>RGB-to-YUV converted
What are you using to convert RGB to YUV?

[Anonymous No.3646923]

>>3646848
basically I've never had a HDtv

monitors yea but my main tv is like a 40 inch Toshiba and a 27 inch Magnavox

I've had them since the earlt 2000's given to me by family members and I've never had any problems with them.

[Anonymous No.3646934]

>>3646923
I still have the little TV but i don't have it on top of the toshiba

[Anonymous No.3647161]

>>3646352
Seems like a good find. Does it have S-video or component? Or just Composite? Not that it matters if all you're using it for is an NES.

[Anonymous No.3647642]

>>3646892
I assume he is using YUV to mean YPbPr and not composite.

[Anonymous No.3647751]

Shitty picture ripped from the only place online I could find an image of the same model (My camera is more pixellated garbage than this), but here's a pic of a CRT I picked up for nothin. Live fairly far away from mainstream places, but not too far to be considered rural so not much going on in these parts in terms of retro finds.

It's a chinese knockoff brand, picture is okay. Total noob at CRT autism such as models and technical aspects other than knowing Trinitrons and Mitsubishi Electrics are GOAT, but no luck so far in finding one.

I'd like to ask you knowledgeable people whether this old gal can output both PAL50/60 and NTSC signals. Google has done little to give me any at all information about this TV.

[Anonymous No.3647761]

>>3647751
Should also have mentioned the brand due to the picture being small as shit. It's an Audiosonic of some description.

[Anonymous No.3647879]

>>3634775
>>3635091
>>3635095
Here you are holmes

[Anonymous No.3647915]

>>3647751
Check the back of your set. It should tell you if its 60hz and the voltage on a big sticker.

[Anonymous No.3647931]

>>3647751
Please don't tell me you spent $75 on this

[Anonymous No.3647936]

>>3647915
mains frequency =/= supported refresh

[Anonymous No.3648007]

Do CRTs, especially monitors emit harmful radiation?
Should I be worried that I use them a lot and sit pretty close?

[Anonymous No.3648036]

>>3647931
I got this for nothing.

>>3647915
Thanks, 50hz 220-240V. That's Pal60 and NTSC out.

[Anonymous No.3648041]

>>3648036
mains frequency =/= supported refresh

[Anonymous No.3648045]

>tfw STILL have yet to fix the convergence on my 14M4U 2 years later

also reposting

[Anonymous No.3648072]

>>3647915
>>3647931

[Anonymous No.3648114]

>>3646795

Typewriter time

What are some good free camera apps for android that reduce TV flicker?

[Anonymous No.3648141]

>>3647879
Aw yeah thanks man! Wallpaper restored!

[Anonymous No.3648158]

>>3648114
depends entirely on camera module and setting available.
my old S3 was pretty terrible and has little to no adjustements, but had a screen mode that could do decentish pics ; my current zenfone selfie has a better module, but also has a much better manual mode, with the most important setting, shutter speed.
Check if you can lock the shutter to 1/60s.

[Anonymous No.3648268]

>>3648114
What >>3648158 said. I'd aim for a shutter speed slightly slower than the refresh rate though, say 1/50s.

You can check your phone with "Manual Camera Compatibility" on the play store.

>tfw my HTC One M8 gets a full house of red crosses

[Anonymous No.3648286]

>>3634558
Anyone from Brazil owns a PvM? Where'd you buy one? I don't even know where I'd even go to look for them around here.

[Anonymous No.3648318]

>>3634558
trump is crt masterrace

[Anonymous No.3648327]

>>3648318
37-incher in the shitter?

Suave.

[Anonymous No.3648360]

>>3648327
well its obviously an American brand. Im thinking RCA.

[Anonymous No.3648424]

>>3638804
Put a gameboy emulator running on a pc on it.

[Anonymous No.3648441]

>>3648360
Not so suave after all...

[Anonymous No.3648448]

>>3648424
Add a green gel sheet over the tube and you've got the makings of an okay idea.

[Anonymous No.3648459]

>>3648441
you talking shit homeboy?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvoeftGo7Lg
RCA is the most pimp crt brand.

[Anonymous No.3648480]

>>3648459
>rgb scart in the USA

[Anonymous No.3648681]

>>3648448
Just put a bug zapper in the room and you're good to go.

[Anonymous No.3649083]

Will be getting one of these shortly.

[Anonymous No.3649112]

>>3648480
It's not RGB SCART.

[Anonymous No.3649127]

>>3649112
wtf I hate RCA now

[Anonymous No.3649129]

>>3648459
calm down granpa

[Anonymous No.3649134]

[Anonymous No.3649137]

[Anonymous No.3649140]

[Anonymous No.3649143]

[Anonymous No.3649146]

[Anonymous No.3649149]

[Anonymous No.3649150]

[Anonymous No.3649153]

[Anonymous No.3649164]

[Anonymous No.3649179]

>>3648480
>100% Chipboard
>PRINTED IN USA
>PRINTED

[Anonymous No.3649214]

>>3648268
>can do lots manual settings
>get all red crosses anyway
that app is ass

[Anonymous No.3649216]

>literally me

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3649243]

>>3649127
So stupid that they'd go through the trouble of putting in a SCART connector but not have it actually wired for RGB>

[Anonymous No.3649252]

>>3649083

Cool, I have an Ikegami but a different model from your pic.

[Anonymous No.3649339]

>>3649252
yes, this is my third ikegami monitor, but my first HD professional monitor. The specs on this thing are amazing. 900 TV lines, support for up to 1080i through Y/Pb/Pr, 5 expansion board slots (comes with 2 pre-installed, nothing too interesting as far as I can tell), it's probably one of the top 5 CRTs of all time.

[Anonymous No.3649401]

Ay lads, are BVM/PVMs good for PS2 and stuff? I know it's not retro but there's no CRT general on /vg/.

[Anonymous No.3649442]

>>3649401
yes. Ideally you would want a multiformat monitor.

[Anonymous No.3649454]

>>3649401
they are the best you can get for 6th generation. You'll want an HD one for the xbox, but the PS2? Wii/GC? Golden with a CRT.

[Anonymous No.3650342]

There is a free 27" Sony Wega TV on CL I've confirmed works including the ports, is this a good monitor for my NES? Also will the Zapper function on it? I'm a bit worried that it may not since it supports RGB on the back. Seems like it might be a tad too new.

[Anonymous No.3650349]

>>3650342
just bring the zapper and nes with you to test it and tell them you are autistic

[Anonymous No.3650357]

>>3650349
Oh /vr/ of 2016. You are truly garbage. <3

[Anonymous No.3650473]

>>3650342
>since it supports RGB on the back
No, it doesn't.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3650545]

Gentlemen, I have a couple 8 inch PVMs that I need to eliminate from my storage unit. They have been abused by previous owners and need proper homes. Therefore, I am offering them below eBay average. If you live in the Jacksonville area, drop a line. If you live in the continental United States and want me to ship a monitor to your doorstep, we'll have to work out a solution. I can post photos later of a specific model if you're interested.

PVM 9L2, 2 available
8042Q, 3 available

I also have one 5-incher available (5041Q). Not much good for anything other than being ridiculously cute on a shelf all day.

[Anonymous No.3650581]

>>3650473
You can literally see them in the image though..

[Anonymous No.3650584]

>>3650545
The 5041q does rgb/component?

[Anonymous No.3650586]

>>3650581
YPbPr is not the same as RGB.

[Anonymous No.3650592]

>>3635768
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1orOGJwZvjLAvckyxC4Nw
That's some A E S T H E T I C divergence.

>>3635905
Don't be scared of lockpicking something you own. No shame in that. I don't bother with my key for my safe personally.

[Anonymous No.3650596]

>>3650586
Huh, interesting. What is the difference?

[Anonymous No.3650612]

>>3650596
Y is luma, a signal representing the luminance, basically the black and white information of the image. It often shares a cable with the sync signal.
Pb is proportional to B - Y and Pr is proportional to R - Y.

[Anonymous No.3650613]

>>3650586
yes it is. dont listen to this guy. red blue n green is red blue n green

[Anonymous No.3650618]

>>3650613

[Anonymous No.3650620]

Pvms are for dumb chicks who can't RGB mod a regular crt.

[Anonymous No.3650621]

>>3650618
dont do it man. dont fall for the rgb meme.

[Anonymous No.3650623]

>>3650620
Why chicks specifically?


Also >>3650612 doesn't really answer if the Sony Wega 27" is a good retro gaming TV either. Should I get this?

[Anonymous No.3650624]

>>3650620
PVMs have higher quality tubes and chassis with more functionality.

[Anonymous No.3650626]

>>3650621
This. True Pros only use the audio cable.

[Anonymous No.3650631]

>>3650623

You strike me as one

[Anonymous No.3650632]

>>3650624

Keep shillin'

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3650634]

>>3650584
It does. A quick google will get you the spec brochure. Do an imagesearch and you'll get some photos, including one of the back. Here's one I found. This is not a photo of my 5041Q.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKlkYwbksPo

[Anonymous No.3650638]

>>3650631
Only if traps count.

[Anonymous No.3650642]

>>3650342
Yes that one will be great for retro. It's standard definition, NES and Zapper will work correctly on it. It has component and s-video ports too, which will give you higher quality video. Go for it

[Anonymous No.3650645]

>>3650642
Thank you, anon!

[Anonymous No.3650648]

>>3650623
>doesn't really answer if the Sony Wega 27" is a good retro gaming TV either. Should I get this?
If it's SD, then yes. If it's ED or HD, then no.

[Anonymous No.3650650]

>>3650632
But it's generally true.

[Anonymous No.3650710]

>>3650648
this does make me curious, were there any consumer CRTs that didn't have digital processing but also has Y/Pb/Pr?

[Anonymous No.3650716]

>>3650710
>were there any consumer CRTs that didn't have digital processing but also has Y/Pb/Pr?
Plenty. Most of them, actually.

[Anonymous No.3650718]

>>3650710
Yes. There tons of 240p/480i SD Sony Trinitrons that have one or more set of component inputs and have zero digital processing.

[Anonymous No.3650719]

>>3650710

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

That link should probably be in the OP. You want one that is "WEGA" or "WEGA 16:9 Enhanced". The "Hi Scan" and "Super Fine Pitch" have digital crap going on.

Find out the exact model number of the set.

[Anonymous No.3650724]

>>3650719
>>3650716
very interesting. What about for 720p support?

[Anonymous No.3650728]

>>3650724
You are more likely to find native 720p support on professional monitors. Consumer sets usually upscale 720p to 1080i.

[Anonymous No.3650730]

Retrorgb did an interview a BVM technician a few days ago. Haven't seen it posted yet, but check it out if you're interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZqQMzS1dLc

[Anonymous No.3650756]

>>3650724

Consumer televisions that can take a 720p input all internally upscale that to 1080i and have about 2 frames of input lag.

If you want lag-free 480p/720p/1080i you will need a "multiformat" monitor, and they are quite expensive. expect to spend over a thousand dollars if you want one bigger than 20".

I personally love the multiformat thing but it's expensive as hell if you don't have connections with studio dudes or spend time posting want ads etc

[Anonymous No.3650772]

>>3650342
Need to know the model number

[Anonymous No.3650776]

>>3650545

Really want the 5041Q

[Anonymous No.3650784]

>>3650772
It's probably a Sony KV-27FS120. Extremely common SD (240p and 480i only) model that you'll find everywhere on Craigslist, but is pretty good for retro games.

[Anonymous No.3650793]

>>3650756
HD CRTs have lag-free 1080i with HDPT turned on.

[Anonymous No.3650795]

>>3650730
Great video.

[Anonymous No.3650835]

>>3650793

Source

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3650949]

>>3650776
I actually have two 5041Qs but I'm keeping one for myself. One of the monitors is functionally perfect, and I'd prefer to keep it. The other has issues with composite decoding (cold solder joints cause the image to be grayscale until heated), but RGB/Component input is flawless (since the signal takes a separate path, not requiring demodulation).

Let me know which one you want. The price on the flawed (temperamental composite input) 5041Q will be slightly lower than the functionally perfect one.

[Anonymous No.3650950]

>>3650793
I have an HD 16:9 CRT that is 1080i but it doesn't work with the Zapper sadly.

[Anonymous No.3650960]

>>3650342
Zapper/justifier/menace/super scope/etc will all work great. And your systems will look great too. And it's component, not rgb.

[Anonymous No.3650967]

>>3650950
Light guns only work on SD CRTs.

[Anonymous No.3650986]

>>3636568
Aw, c'mon AV Famicom composite is tolerable.

[Anonymous No.3650994]

>>3644906
They just announced their discontinuation (presumably to make a new one).

[Anonymous No.3650996]

>>3650949
I'd prefer the good one but not afraid of taking the bad one to fix. shoot me an email @ [e-mail] (it's a burner), and we can talk prices.

[Anonymous No.3651010]

It's not totally op-topic, but I don't know where else to ask:

Anyone know where I can get an XRGB-1 that's not eBay?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3651012]

>>3650996
The "bad" one I normally "fix" by pointing my heatgun at a specific section of daughterboard B for a few seconds until the color snaps into place. Again, it's unnecessary to do this if you're using RGB or component input. Only composite input is affected. I'll send an email and then head off to bed.

[Anonymous No.3651017]

It's not totally on-topic, but I don't know where else to ask:

Anyone know where I can get an XRGB-1 that's not eBay?

[Anonymous No.3651019]

>>3636629
PVMs are a little expensive and they're so precise the blank scanlines are excessively over-exaggerated. They're also pretty damn small.

Just get a nice trinitron. You can get one for $20 or even free if you buy it from an old person. Since you have a Super Nintendo, try to get one with s-video, but stay away from flatscreen crts.

[Anonymous No.3651021]

>>3650949
>cold solder joints
Why haven't you fixed this? That's a quick fix. Just dab a little flux on there and reflow it.

[Anonymous No.3651027]

>>3651017
The site that ships them from Japan is called solarisjapan.com. They're on back order right now, though.

[Anonymous No.3651029]

>>3651019
That's BVMs, you're thinking of.

[Anonymous No.3651036]

>>3651019
>but stay away from flatscreen crts
This meme needs to die. There is nothing wrong with a flat tube as long as you stay away from the el cheapos.

[Anonymous No.3651037]

>>3650621
>best possible analog video signal is a meme
What?

[Anonymous No.3651062]

>>3650621
Those are component cables. Component (YPbPr) and RGB are two different color spaces.

>>3651037
VGA (RGBHV) is the best analogue signal.

[Anonymous No.3651112]

>>3650967
Interesting. Any idea as to why?

[Anonymous No.3651216]

>>3651112
the whole light gun tech is based on expecting the electron beam at a precise place and time. Processing delay obviously tend to fuck with those

[Anonymous No.3651230]

>>3651062
red blue & green is the same fucking color as red blue & green. What we need is to make a new red white & blue american color space aka aesthetics.

[Anonymous No.3651231]

>>3650986
burst offset is garbage once you start scrolling

[Anonymous No.3651237]

>>3650835
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/701275/Sony-Kd-30xs955.html?page=62
https://sony-paa-pa-en-web--paa.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/27734/~/what-is-multi-image-driver-x-(mid%E2%84%A2-x)-circuitry%3F

Changing HDPT from 1 to 0 bypasses the MID (Multi-Image Driver) which is responsible for all of the digital processing going on with 1080i.

>>3651112
It's just how the image is drawn on an SD CRT. Light Gun games will not work on anything but SD CRTs and PVMs/BVMs.

[Anonymous No.3651262]

Living the dream

[Anonymous No.3651271]

>few DT-V are floating around
>none of them have the RGB card
>many of them have the 4000€ HDSDI card...
they're 600km away anyway but still...fuck life

[Anonymous No.3651273]

The good life

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3651306]

>>3650793
>>3651237
That ONLY applies if you're feeding it HDMI. It does absolutely nothing for you if you're using component.

>>3651271
Shit's fucked.

[Anonymous No.3651358]

>>3651273
nice window anon.

[Anonymous No.3651420]

>>3650710
>were there any consumer CRTs that didn't have digital processing but also has Y/Pb/Pr?
I have never seen component SD TVs in person. Either composite only, or composite + RGB SCART input.
So your results may vary.

[Anonymous No.3651513]

>>3651273
the wood rack immediately to the right of the tv what is that considered and where did you get it if possible?

Im trying to find something similar but much wider like a 4foot high 6-8 foot wide media shelving unit but no one seems to make something like that. they all tend to be more vertical than horizontal

[Anonymous No.3651645]

>>3650710
A bunch

I have 3
Sanyo DS 20
JVC AV 36
Sony KV 27

[Anonymous No.3651652]

>>3651036
>There is nothing wrong with a flat tube
haha good one

[Anonymous No.3651661]

>>3651262
Radioactive dream

[Anonymous No.3651681]

>>3651027
Thanks! I'll keep an eye out but they oldest they have now is the XRGB-3.

[Anonymous No.3651685]

>>3651231
To each his own. I think modding NESs/FCs for RGB is sacrilegious, so I take what I can get on my real hardware. RGB Native consoles on the other hand...

[Anonymous No.3651692]

>>3651262
>the SMW pic wallpaper
Me too!

[Anonymous No.3651696]

Friendly reminder never to fall for the CRT meme.
CRTs are deprecated for a reason.

[Anonymous No.3651904]

>>3651652
>haha good one
Only the cheap ones have horrific geometry problems. Stop being daft.

>>3651661
>Radioactive dream
One year of CRT usage exposes you to less radiation than being in Denver for a single day.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3651921]

>>3651021
The original flux in the problematic area was never properly cleaned off from the factory. Applying more flux of a different chemistry on top ruined another daughterboard with a similar issue on an 8044. Thankfully that set was basically totaled already with a big old bend in the top support bar. I think the previous owner used it as a step-stool.

I could attempt to clean the area with alcohol and then apply flux and reflow the joints, but at this point I think I'll let the next owner try it.

[Anonymous No.3652286]

>>3651696
Because they cost too much to manufacture, ship, and store.

[Anonymous No.3652295]

>>3651904
EMF

[Anonymous No.3652321]

Hey guys, I just got a Sony Wega Trinitron 27" (this one: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SjsdNydIP9B/p_15827FS120/Sony-KV-27FS120.html ) but as you can see in the pic, for whatever reason, when my NES plays on it, the screen is off center. It doesn't cut anything off oddly, but yeah. Nothing else has this problem on the TV so far, but I only got it for my NES, so that kinda sucks.. anything I can do about it? I dug through the menus but didn't see anything about horizontal adjustment sadly.

[Anonymous No.3652334]

>>3652295
You're unbelievable, you know that?

[Anonymous No.3652336]

Should I buy a second CRT monitor?
Carrying 2 around doesn't sound like fun.

[Anonymous No.3652358]

>>3652336
Maybe just get a handheld for the bus anon.

Most of them have link facilities for multi-player.

[Anonymous No.3652368]

>>3652321
Totally normal, how the NES displays

[Anonymous No.3652373]

>>3652321
>>3652368 is correct, left side the NES video output is always weird. On a curved CRT it would typically be in the overscan area.

[Anonymous No.3652447]

>>3652368
>>3652373
Well that's pretty lame. Not a dealbreaker or anything, but still.

[Anonymous No.3652456]

>>3652447
Such are flat-screen CRTs, shit gets weird. You can probably mitigate it a little on the TV, but NES games vary in how egregious that overscan area is, so results may vary from game to game. Those WEGA Trinitrons are super nice though, it's a great set. I had one throughout college and played my 360 on it via Component, it was radical.

[Anonymous No.3652461]

>>3652447
Overscan is more annoying than underscan.

[Anonymous No.3652768]

What resolution do 24Khz arcade CRTs display?

What years were the most common for cabinets to be released in this format?

What are some notable games that displayed in 24Khz?

[Anonymous No.3652780]

>>3652295
So in other words, non-ionizing and therefore harmless.

[Anonymous No.3652784]

>>3652780
Not for you eyes

[Anonymous No.3652914]

>>3652784
Please explain how EMF is harmful to the eyes.

[Anonymous No.3652949]

>>3652914
>Please explain how EMF is not harmful

[Anonymous No.3653108]

>>3652949
that's like if you said "poison is dangerous to look at", and he responded "explain" and you countered with ">explain how poison is dangerous"

[Anonymous No.3653123]

>>3635524
how many inches is that?


and unrelated question, for anyone who may know the answer:
what's the least-laggy way to play Atari 2600 on a projector? I know it's isn't relevant to CRTs, but everyone outside of this general is a retarded lag-denier, so I figured I'd ask here.

[Anonymous No.3653126]

>>3652949
>Please explain how EMF is not harmful

So in other words, you can't produce any credible scientific proof to back up your outrageous claims and instead will insist that I try to proof a negative.

[Anonymous No.3653129]

>>3653123
>what's the least-laggy way to play Atari 2600 on a projector?
With a CRT projector.

[Anonymous No.3653139]

>>3653123
CRT Projector, of course.

[Anonymous No.3653142]

>>3653139
thanks for the response. A few follow-up questions:
how would I buy one nowadays, and how much would it run me? Did they ever sell under a different name (like different term than "CRT projector")? Are they any good?

[Anonymous No.3653153]

>>3653142
tube projector, tri-tube projector

[Anonymous No.3653158]

>>3653142

>How would I buy one nowadays?
Craigslist or Ebay. I found both of mine on craigslist, $100 for the 'good' one, and a dingy one for free.

>How much would it run me?
Depends, how much do you want to spend? I got a set with less than 100 hours on the tubes for $100, but it needs a complete recap. Got another for free, but it's an obscure model, and in kind of bad shape.
You can sometimes find older 80's models that will do 480i/p in acceptable condition for less than $100, all depends on what your local craigslist looks like. eBay is a different story, usually sellers there know what they're working with, and have good stock, so expect to pay $500 on the low end. Good thing is, most of what any decent seller will have will be slightly newer models (mid-90's and later) that have much better features. Prices can get into the 4-5 thousand range for top of the line sets with low hour tubes.

>Did they ever sell under a different name?
Not really, most major electronics manufacturers made them, though you're mostly going to find Sony, NEC, Barco, Electrohome, and some Zeniths around. I'd avoid anything else, simply due to lack of information. I have a Toshiba unit and there is not a speck of information on the internet about it.

>Are they any good?
Very. CRT projectors were probably the pinnacle of CRT technology. Higher end models could do 1080p and beyond without internal scaling, meaning no lag at any resolution. The picture quality is closer to a film projector than anything else, and high-end models still command quite high price points.
If you do get one, and you're just wanting to play atari or old vidya, get a cheap 80's model that still seems to be in working condition, with analog convergence. You should be able to set it up to get a decent picture in less than a day.

[Anonymous No.3653162]

>>3653142
They are quite time-consuming devices though. I got a very low hours NEC unit that's near perfect, however I'm in the process of replacing every capacitor in the set to get it back in working order. It's about 300 caps. Setting one up to be as best as it can be can take 8-16 hours. Coolant needs changed and cleaned, adjustments need to be made for each tube individually, and you often will run into the case of adjusting one thing will throw another out of alignment. If you're not comfortable working inside a regular set, these will not be for you, since you will be making a lot of adjustments on the chassis and on the neck of the tubes themselves while the set is live.
They also have a very short lifespan, a projection tube will be considered at the end of it's usable life in as little as 7-8000 hours.

[Anonymous No.3653171]

>>3653142
One more thing, If you do get one, make damn well sure you can get the remote for it, if it came with one. A lot of sets are as good as bricks without the setup/engineering remote. This is the case with my Toshiba unit, I don't have a remote for it, so i can't even power it on. I have to find a programmable remote and set it up with custom IR libraries to get the thing even running.

[Anonymous No.3653175]

>>3653158
>CRT projectors were probably the pinnacle of CRT technology
they're lacking in max brightness so you need to be in the darkest room possible.

[Anonymous No.3653181]

>>3653175
what if I just bought two cheap ones and focused them on the same spot on the wall?

[Anonymous No.3653186]

>>3653175
They're not -that- dim. A decent midrange set will get you around 1000 lumens of output, which does not require 'the darkest room possible'. My 9PG is rated at 850 lumens and just closing the blinds is more than sufficient. You don't need to go installing blackout curtains in most situations.

>>3653181
This is possible but you will spend many days getting them lined up exactly right.

[Anonymous No.3653194]

>>3653186
here's a question:

how hard would it be to rewind the yokes of a CRT projector to turn it into a color vector display? By that I mean, how much harder than rewinding a normal CRT tv?

[Anonymous No.3653201]

>>3653194
Couldn't really tell you, probably harder since most CRT Projector tubes have two yokes, one for deflection and one for focus.

[Anonymous No.3653580]

>>3652321
you can adjust the vpos, vsiz, hpos and hsiz in the service menu to make the image centered and full screen

[Anonymous No.3653618]

>>3653126
You can't explain it either

[Anonymous No.3653940]

>>3653618
You can't prove a negative.

[Anonymous No.3653978]

>>3652949
the amount of radiation you receive from a crt is about the same as eating a banana.This is a fact.

[Anonymous No.3654050]

>>3637358
Ultrablack? Is that even more black than Sony Highblack?

[Anonymous No.3654056]

>>3654050
blacker than your dad.

[Anonymous No.3654061]

>>3652461
this

I'd rather have underscan than overscan. At least with underscan, you're getting the entire picture, even if there's a bit of junk on the side. It's a bit distracting, but I couldn't live knowing thtat part of the picture is cut out.

[Anonymous No.3654094]

>>3654050

[Anonymous No.3654145]

rate my set-up boys

[Anonymous No.3654168]

>>3654145
Damn that's some sexy set you've got there m8.

[Anonymous No.3654265]

>>3654145
Nice set, don't like too much that the AC is behind the tv and the window is blocked. Also don't approve of the router on the floor.

But that thing is mint

[Anonymous No.3654284]

>>3654265

tiny apartment, it barely fits but I couldn't give it up. moved the router since, but yeah, AC unit is drilled into the wall so I sealed it for the winter.

It's quite strange actually. Chrono Trigger is way too bright even when adjusting Color, Sharpness, and Brightness, but DKC looks immaculate.

[Anonymous No.3654289]

Can someone help me out?
I'm having a bit of trouble with something since I have a PAL crt.

Couple weeks ago I managed to get a little old CRT that I have no clue about, I need to buy a universal remote and unlock it from ''child lock'' in order for it to work first.

My main goal is to use my wii to play virtual console games, I've never played Chrono Trigger for example and I would like to play it this christmas.

I found out that there is a virtual console release for it on PAL apparently, my question is if I can run it without any type of slowdowns of some sort.
Can I play the game at 60hz or will my PAL crt not support it?
What if I get an emulator? even if I manage to play the NTSC version of CT would it run without problems or will my pal crt always hinder the experience?

I've gone through some trouble trying to get the right cables and shit but I totally forgot about this PAL/NTSC and the hz thing.

I hope someone can lend me a hand, and I will provide some more info if needed to help me out.

[Anonymous No.3654292]

>>3654289
>Can I play the game at 60hz or will my PAL crt not support it?
It will be in black and white, but if you have a SCART port it will play in color.

[Anonymous No.3654293]

Will Bluray movies look better than DVD movies on a SD CRT TV with component or S-video?

Or is DVD the max detail CRT TVs can show?

[Anonymous No.3654295]

>>3654292
my CRT happens to have SCART port I think, does this make the television 60hz by default or?
And can I play the pal verison of the game too?
I will upload a picture in a second.

[Anonymous No.3654298]

>>3654292
>>3654295
here is the pic

[Anonymous No.3654303]

>>3654293
>Will Bluray movies look better than DVD movies on a SD CRT TV with component or S-video?
Yes, evenmore with component. Downsampling retains more details.

[Anonymous No.3654306]

>>3654298
Yeah PAL works on 50 and 60, but NTSC only works properly on 60. NTSC will work on 50 but like I said it will be in black and white.

[Anonymous No.3654316]

>>3654306
Oh, apparently my crt only works with 50hz, it says so in the back of the tv.
Does this mean there is nothing I can do about it and that all the games I play will play on 50hz?
sorry if I dont understand it but I'm still trying to figure this stuff out.

[Anonymous No.3654324]

>>3654295
>>3654289
In RGB 50 and 60Hz don't affect the color rendition, it's only a matter of if your set detect 60Hz Vsync automatically or not. For the latter, you can alway adjust the V-Hold setting.
>>3654316
The 50Hz on the back of the TV only means that the power outlet must supply 230VAC at 50Hz, doesn't stop the set from supporting 60Hz video.

[Anonymous No.3654339]

>>3654324
Oh thats interesting, I hope my crt supports 60hz, tomorrow I will buy a universal remote and try to figure it out.

[Anonymous No.3654576]

>>3654284
NYC?

[Anonymous No.3655173]

>>3639256

What the fuck is going on with those stairs?

[Anonymous No.3655181]

>>3641856
What are you comparing here exactly anon?

[Anonymous No.3655194]

Super Famicom over S-video on a PVM-8044Q.
Pretty tiny but with a big enough desk it can be a good desktop monitor.

[Anonymous No.3655218]

Why aren't the LCD games on Game Gear, Lynx, and Gameboy equipped with scanlines?

Why do video game commercials from the 80s and 90s have no scanlines in the video game footage?

[Anonymous No.3655345]

>>3655218
>the developers didn't intend for you to see scanlines

What do you mean ALL the tv's have scanlines?

Wait! There's this one

[Anonymous No.3655498]

What does TVL stand for?

I know it is a measurement of analog horizontal detail resolution.

How many TVL does it take to fully resolve 320 horizontal pixels?

How many TVL does it take to fully resolve 640 horizontal pixels?

[Anonymous No.3655534]

>>3655498
350 and 650. tvl is tv lines. Only ever seen them come up in increments of 50. Looking forward to getting my Ikegami with 900TVL.

[Anonymous No.3655570]

>>3655345
that thing looks sexy as fuck. If only all lcds looked like that.

[Anonymous No.3655626]

Anybody have any experience with Sony PVM 20L2?

[Anonymous No.3655656]

>>3635905
>>3636786
>>3636519
You fucking idiots. All you have to do is take the outside metal off and you can slide the bezel out with the drawers and unscrew the lock mechanism from behind.

Also you could fix most of that convergence if you get into the drawers. to me it looks like someone has fucked with them that didnt know what they were doing.

[Anonymous No.3655993]

I had a studio CRT monitor (Samsung Syncmaster 796MB Plus) laying around, so I decided to connect to my monitor and try a 240p signal (640x240@120Hz) and wow. It looks so much better than my shitty TV.

Doesn't work with my actual cosoles, but it works pretty damn well on emulators. It was definetively not a meme. Thanks /crt/

[Anonymous No.3656087]

>>3655656
>take the outside metal off and you can slide the bezel out with the drawers and unscrew the lock mechanism from behind.
that's even more time-consuming than opening the lock from the front with literally anything that fits into the lock. Who's an idiot.

[Anonymous No.3656136]

>>3655534
How much TVL does a typical CRT TV from a Japanese manufacturer have?

Do CRTs with larger screen diagonal size have more TVL than CRTs with less screen diagonal size?

[Anonymous No.3656317]

Has anyone else had to deal with a "dark spot" on their CRT? I recently moved and I think during the move something happened to my PVM. It's really difficult to capture properly on camera but it's in the upper left portion of the screen.

I've googled it and apparently dust can get caught in the CRT and cause this but I've never opened my PVM and I'd really rather not potentially kill myself over this, but at the same time it really does bug me enough to want to fix it. Degaussing doesn't change anything, either.

Could I just open the case and blast some compressed air over the unit or would that cause my PVM to turn into an enormous glass grenade?

[Anonymous No.3656334]

>>3655993
>I had a studio CRT monitor (Samsung Syncmaster 796MB Plus)
That's a computer monitor, not a studio monitor.

[Anonymous No.3656352]

>>3656317
Display a solid red, green or blue color on the screen and look at the spot with an magnifying glass. It could be possible that the purity is off hence the beam doesn't strike all the phosphor like the rest of the screen. If the wrong phosphor lights a little up then the purity is off.
Also it could be possible that the aperture grill got deformed by some magnet that was to near during the move.

[Anonymous No.3656398]

If a tv is occasionally going black and then snapping back to life, like, every 20-30 mins or so, is there anything easy that could be causing that? The actual cut to black and back lasts less than a second. I was thinking maybe v hold, but the image doesn't roll, it just vanishes.

[Anonymous No.3656590]

>>3656087
They aren't some cheap shit lock you find on your piggy bank. There's a few tumblers. Also who wants to pick the lock every single time they need to make an adjustment?
>>3656398
I have the same problem with my PC CRT. hope someone answers this.

[Anonymous No.3656596]

>>3656334
Sorry, I don't know the terminology. What I meant to say is that it was designed for graphics design work.

[Anonymous No.3656692]

>>3656590
>They aren't some cheap shit lock you find on your piggy bank. There's a few tumblers.
i picked one myself with some tweezers, it took about 10 seconds. Those locks are way cheaper than you'd expect on professional equipment
> Also who wants to pick the lock every single time they need to make an adjustment?
well ... how about leaving the fucking lock fucking open? Please stop embarassing yourself.

[Anonymous No.3656737]

>>3656590
Well, I'm glad to hear it's not some weird problem localized to me, at least.

[Anonymous No.3656824]

How much would you guys be willing to spend on a Commodore 1080 monitor? Guy wants me to make an offer on it

I'd probably be willing to spend $50 on it but you think maybe I could lowball him to $30?

[Anonymous No.3656840]

>>3654576

atlanta

[Anonymous No.3656848]

>>3656824
A Commodore 1080? More than your average Commodore monitor -- those are Toshiba-made and have quite a few inputs available (Analog RGB, TTL RGB, Composite and Y/C). It's not as good as the JVC-made Commodore 1070 (these have the same dotpitch as PC-8801/9801/9821 and some SVGA monitors), but they're still of a higher-quality build than later Commodore monitors. $30~40 sounds like a good price imo (paid 10€ to have my 1085S-D3 along with an Amiga 500 I paid 50€).

[Anonymous No.3657430]

I was just looking at my old pc pieces dump and found an nvidia 9800gx with TV out. It's that propietary port that looks like a s-video but has 9pins. I found with it a RGB cable that connects to that svideo-like port.

I cant test it at the moment (need to fetch a couple of cables before i can build a winxp pc for this card), in the meantime, does any of you know how good/bad it works with a CRT TV? Will I be able to get proper low resolutions?

[Anonymous No.3657475]

>>3656692
>i picked one myself with some tweezers, it took about 10 seconds.
sorry i dont believe you

[Anonymous No.3657487]

>>3635854

Bump for interest

[Anonymous No.3657496]

>>3644841
>>3644846
>>3644847
Just curious,so if im using a japanese model 2 saturn,would i use scart NTSC or JP21,been seriously confused on this for some time,i would think scart NTSC for like scart to HDMI right?

pic related?

[Anonymous No.3657515]

>>3657430
>RGB cable

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3657537]

>>3657496
SCART vs JP21 is entirely dependent on what you're connecting it to display/upscaler wise. It has absolutely nothing to do with what console region you're using.

>,i would think scart NTSC for like scart to HDMI right?
What?

[Anonymous No.3657545]

>>3657537
I was under the impression that depending on the region of the system you would say like if you had an NTSC-J system you would use JP21 instead of SCART,from what i have seen people tried using just normal scart and had no luck,maybe im misunderstanding something about the saturns video output though.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3657570]

>>3657545
As long as the wires are going to the correct places, you can use any cable you wish with any system.

SCART and JP21 both use the same shape connector, but have different pinouts on their non-console facing side. This means they will only work with displays/switches/upscalers configured to use that specific pinout.

The console side of the cable will be the same no matter what. You just need to make sure the cable is properly wired for said region, as there can be pinout differences depending on region. PAL SNES for example have 12VDC where CSync is on NTSC; The same goes for PAL Saturns versus NTSC Saturns, except it's 9VDC in that case. This is only important if you require switching voltage for a SCART equipped TV;
So long as you don't need that 9VDC, and the specific cable is wired to get sync from Composite Video or Luma instead of CSync, any cable will work with any region Saturn.

It should be noted that SCART cables, switches, and so on tend to be cheaper and easier to find than JP21 equivalents.

[Anonymous No.3657702]

>>3634558
Are there any good flat CRT TV's or should you always aim for curved?

General thoughts on widescreen CRT's

[Anonymous No.3657872]

>>3657475
make that 20.

[Anonymous No.3657916]

>>3657702
I've got the Sony KVHR36M31 (KV34XBR910 for you seppos), it's the ducks nuts. The XBR910 has DVI whereas we lost it in lieu for H/V sync pins on one of the Component inputs which turns it into VGA! Better yet it'll take 15khz on this input via a Sync Strike or gscartsw and can display 240p @480p with proper line doubling (no artifacts at all) much like you would see on a VGA monitor using the old XRGB3 w/o scanlines or alternatively upscale to 1080i.

It's got an option for Game Mode which completely disables deinterlacing altogether whilst forcing the display into 480p mode almost (but not quite) eliminating lag.

Weirdly enough it does deinterlace 480i when upscaling to 1080i but for whatever reason is smart enough to deal with 30hz dropshadows.

[Anonymous No.3658016]

>>3656398
Small update, I played some more with it this morning(when the room was ice cold, has shitty heating) and it didn't seen to do it at all after playing for about an hour. Is it possible something is really heat sensitive inside of it?

[Anonymous No.3658085]

>>3657702
>Are there any good flat CRT TV's
Yes

>General thoughts on widescreen CRT's
They upscale and lag with retro

[Anonymous No.3658131]

>>3634558
Short story long my brother left this TV in his closer and my parents want to throw it away.

Anyone know anything about it or if I should keep it?

[Anonymous No.3658132]

>>3658131
Inputs

[Anonymous No.3658143]

>>3658131
Trinitron with Component, keep it

[Anonymous No.3658152]

>>3658143
Right now I have a big ass Toshiba and a Magnavox so i didn't know if it's worth switching one of those out.

[Anonymous No.3658179]

>>3657430
480i+ only

[Anonymous No.3658249]

>>3654145
Hipstershit/10. Either that or you live with your grandma.

[Anonymous No.3658252]

>>3649129
Damn, that tiny little Hi-fi amp in the center is exactly what I need for my set-up. Wish I could see the model number.

[Anonymous No.3658254]

>>3654145
That's a nice ass SONY, bro.

[Anonymous No.3658264]

>>3649150
Wanna here something fucked up, I was driving and saw one of these in the trash so I pulled off to grab it and the asshole who threw it away cut the cord on it.

[Anonymous No.3658279]

>>3658264
So just crimp one back on? Everyone cuts the chords on old TVs, it's like a thing.

[Anonymous No.3658283]

>>3658264
You didn't leave it to die because of a missing power cord, right? Like, you took 5 minutes and crimped one back on?

[Anonymous No.3658327]

>>3658249

stay salty bitch nigga

[Anonymous No.3658330]

>>3658283
I had no idea what it even was, I just thought it was a cool tv

drive by that guys house all the time, I wonder what else he has

[Anonymous No.3658363]

>>3658327
>being salty over someone having a 200-lb, 4-ft-wide, consumer-quality CRT in their living room
What universe am I in? Are we now trying to convince ourselves that EVERYTHING about CRTs is good? Even the things that are objectively terrible about them?

We've gone through the looking glass, haven't we?

[Anonymous No.3658380]

This general never fails to entertain.

[Anonymous No.3658394]

Can someone ID this please? Is it better than/comparable to a KV trinitron?

[Anonymous No.3658415]

>>3658252
The complete system is the MHC-P77 "Pixy" from 1989 if that helps narrow it down any.

Personally I'm more of a Technics guy when it comes to audio kit.

[Anonymous No.3658425]

>>3658415
That's pretty sick.

I found the model by image searching, but it doesn't seem to be easily available. I'll keep an eye on eBay.

My retro setup is currently a Sony CRT, and a pair of nice Sony speakers I found for cheap at a flea market. When it comes to audio, I'm a fan of Kenwood, Nikkon and Marantz as well, but my autism wants me to get another Sony just so I have a matching set-up.

[Anonymous No.3658427]

>>3658085
>They upscale and lag with retro
Some handle it better than others, I'm the KVHR36fag from >>3657702, yes there is lag but it's only 10ms, I've measured it. It is nowhere what you get from a "low-lag" ~30ms LCD with an XRGB mini Framemeister in the mix. All you are missing out on with a GOOD hdcrt is scanlines.

[Anonymous No.3658440]

only plebs have PVMs :P

[Anonymous No.3658459]

>>3658152
It's probably better than both of those, depending on how much wear and tear it has on it. 27" is a great size, too, unless you're deadset on something bigger.

[Anonymous No.3658479]

>>3658440
>not being a crt idiort

[Anonymous No.3658526]

>>3646516
Yes, it gives you over 100 resolution options and you just change the option in whatever emulator to whatever resolution you like. You can even play some pc games like Gzdoom or Quake in 240p with scanlines if you want to for some odd reason. I even got Painkiller to play in 240p.

[Anonymous No.3658586]

Hey fellahs. Got a question.

So I have two CRT monitors, both only take >31Khz. Thus to connect old consoles a bit of conversion is required.

Now, I already have all my old consoles set up with a pretty nice CRT using RGB SCART. I'd like to connect some of my old consoles to my monitors though because my TV is widescreen and some of the older consoles don't look so great on it.

Both monitors have VGA and one has BNC as well.

So my question is: What's the easiest way to connect my consoles through RGB to the monitors? It would require upscaling to either VGA or BNC @ 480p or above.

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.3658613]

>>3658425
Looking round the back it looks a bit chintzy. Typical late 80s - early 90s mini system, style over substance.

You'd probably be better off with a TA-S2 "Scala". Bit bigger at 12" width versus 9" for the Pixy but proper separates quality.

[Anonymous No.3658629]

>>3658613
>DAT
I'd get myself one of these players somedays, could be a nice addition to an audio system.

[Anonymous No.3658635]

>>3658629
They're a huge pain in the ass, super unreliable and a bitch to maintain. miniDisc is more fun, or just play digital files at 24/48, that's basically DAT.

[Anonymous No.3658638]

>>3658613
Looked it up, and I can only find it from European sellers. Probably needs a power converter, no? I'd rather skip the hassle. Plus, at 12 inches, it's kind of too big for the shelf space I have, which is why I was looking for a nice little hi-fi or something. I'll just keep the beat-up old Sony I have sitting on top of my set for now.

In the future, I'll probably dish out for a nice amp/equalizer combo or something, if I can find one.

[Anonymous No.3658646]

>>3658635
Are they THAT unreliable, or is it mostly some models that are? I use DDS tapes (basically computer-grade DAT) for backup purposes on one of my computers and I don't really have issues.

[Anonymous No.3658652]

>>3658586
Extron DVS 510 is pretty versatile. See mine driving a multi monitor setup in >>3657040

You'd need SCART to HD15 cables for input though.

[Anonymous No.3658670]

>>3658646
They're pretty bad in my experience, especially now as they've gotten older. The only advantage they have over playing a WAV file is that the hardware is cool. I'm an audio snob, and DATs sound great, but so does a 24/48 WAV , it's quite literally the same thing, so they only have a coolness factor going for them. If you're running a studio or something, multitrack DATs are the jam, but in that case you've probably got a budget for maintenance etc.

[Anonymous No.3658682]

>>3658586
I was going to suggest some devices, but then few have a VGA out...
GBS-82XX and XRGB-1/2/3 are probably the most common answers.

[Anonymous No.3658685]

>>3658670
Oh I see. So it's only good if I ever wanna record music then. I guess I'd need something else than your average Hi-Fi DAT player too?

[Anonymous No.3658697]

>>3658685
I mean if you wanted to record in stereo, a consumer deck would be fine, but real multi-track DAT systems are pretty serious. There are some still in use to-day for sure, but overall if you're just looking for playback, there's basically no point when sites like HDTracks exists and hi-res digital audio is easily obtainable and playable via Optical or SPDIF. If you want a kitschy home-audio format to play with, miniDisc is super reliable and decks are dirt cheap (and small). The sound is actually compressed using ATRAC so it sounds unique (though lossy), compared to a modern MP3 or similar format.

[Anonymous No.3658704]

>>3658652
>>3658682
Thanks. I had no idea this was such a niche market.

Looks like this kind of stuff is out of my price range and I'm better just getting a PVM or something. Thanks anyway.

[Anonymous No.3658713]

>>3658704
GBS are fairly cheap, but they're also a bit laggy. But community support is very strong.
I don't know, but maybe you could ask in OSSC forums to add support for VGA out.

[Anonymous No.3658774]

Anyone have any trouble playing Wii via svideo or component on a crt TV? My Wii and s video cable work on my commodore 1802 monitor, but when used on any other crt, the horizontal sync goes nuts. Composite video works fine though...

[Anonymous No.3658784]

>>3658704
Another line of attack would be emulating and spoofing a 15kHz output to your existing monitors.

This would be by far the cheapest option and the results can be quite satisfying, pic related.

[Anonymous No.3658797]

>>3658784
I have tried emulating many times and, whilst the video is more than good enough at 480p, the input lag is far too noticeable to me. I think I might be very sensitive to it. Besides, I already have a pretty huge physical game library for all my consoles.

You might be the person to ask actually: I can never get decent motion when I emulate anything on any monitor, regardless of the refresh rate. Scrolling screens are always choppy. Do you know why that might be?

(That pic looks very nice by the way. What monitor?)

[Anonymous No.3658808]

>>3658797
It's an IBM P260.

You must be more hardcore than I as any input lag never really bothered me. I'd venture that your original plan of updating would probably introduce more in any case.

Did you ever turn vsync on in the emulator? Tearing/choppiness could be down to that.

[Anonymous No.3658810]

>>3658808
>updating

*upscaling I mean...

[Anonymous No.3658835]

>>3658774
are you switching back to interlaced in the menu?

[Anonymous No.3658851]

>>3658808
Ah very nice. I currently have a Dell P990 and a Sony GDM-FW900 as well as a Sony KV-28fx68u TV.

I don't play particularly taxing games but in some things (like Donkey Kong Country and Crash Bandicoot) I notice the input lag too much to enjoy emulating it, even on a crt monitor with the best emulator you can get. It just doesn't feel as responsive as it should.

Yeah I've tried everything, even black frame insertion. Nothing seems to make the choppiness go away. Playing the same games on the console and my CRT TV is buttery smooth even though I'm running PAL. Go figure.

[Anonymous No.3658867]

Is there a device that converts from RGB-BNC to Component-RCA?

[Anonymous No.3658870]

So, I'm looking on alibaba, and I notice that there's a number of companies offering CRT TV's, brand new. Multiformat(PAL, NTSC, SECAM), different sizes, different input connectors, the whole deal. They offer to sell them 1 piece, by the pallet, by the shipping container, as whole TVs, as "build-your-own" kits, all kinds of shit.

So why does everyone keep saying you can't get new CRT TV's anymore? Is this a meme or something?

[Anonymous No.3658875]

Found a KD-36FS130 in my area, thoughts on it? Would love to have something bigger than my 20" PVM for games. Spec sheet says it's 480i, and has 2 component inputs. Thoughts?

Also there's a Panasonic Tau CT-32HXC14J, HD set. Thinking about that too.

[Anonymous No.3658876]

>>3658867
Just find a converter for RGB to Component, then use those little 25 cent adapters.

[Anonymous No.3658880]

>>3658867
What sort of resolution are you hoping to get out of it? 240p?

[Anonymous No.3658894]

>>3658363
>he paid $175 for a meme monitor

enjoy your medical drama prop lel

[Anonymous No.3658895]

>>3658867
Not directly as far as I'm aware. Which is silly as it's such a simple thing to do and would be useful for a lot of people. Kickstarter anyone?

Best bet currently would be:
http://www.keene.co.uk/syncblaster-component-video-to-rgb-bi-directional-transcoder-convertor-y-pb-pr.html

combined with a SCART to BNC breakout cable from the usual sources.

[Anonymous No.3658897]

>>3658835

Its in interlace mode, yes?

[Anonymous No.3659006]

>>3634558
The way God intended.

[Anonymous No.3659070]

[Anonymous No.3659073]

[Anonymous No.3659075]

[Anonymous No.3659084]

[Anonymous No.3659097]

>>3659006
>>3659070
>>3659073
>>3659075
>>3659084

Looks like you're playing on a shitty Sony wega HD CRT

[Anonymous No.3659176]

>>3659097
Doesn't Croc run at a higher res than most PSX games?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3659182]

>>3659176
>Croc

[Anonymous No.3659183]

>>3659182
Oops, they look so similar I mixed them up.

[Anonymous No.3659229]

>>3659176
>>3659182
Yeah crash runs at 512x240.

[Anonymous No.3659231]

>>3659182

[Anonymous No.3659238]

Sort the following brands of CRT TV into high medium and low quality, adding notes and tips when appropriate.

Sanyo

Sylvania

RCA

Hitachi

Magnasonic

Mitsubishi

NEC

Prima

General Electric

Goldstar

Symphonic

Toshiba

JVC

Sony

Magnavox

Sharp

Samsung

Philips

Panasonic

Sears

Apex

[Anonymous No.3659249]

>>3658870
I don't believe you.

Post the links, especially the build your own CRT kit..

[Anonymous No.3659272]

>>3659238
Ikegami
NEC
Sony
The rest

[Anonymous No.3659297]

>>3659238
1. Sony, NEC, Sharp

2. The rest

[Anonymous No.3659318]

>>3659272
>>3659297
>not putting JVC/Panasonic and Mitsubishi in the top tier

[Anonymous No.3659392]

>>3659318
I have two panasonic monitors. JVC tried finding some with rgb, but they're difficult to come by so I haven't used them yet. Ikegami blows the rest away.

[Anonymous No.3659405]

>>3658394
It's a TV.

[Anonymous No.3659467]

>>3659238
>Sort the following brands
oh gawd

[Anonymous No.3659607]

>>3634558
how much should I pay for a decent CRT in Australia?
How long do CRT's last before shitting themselves?
It's depressing knowing once your CRT dies, there are no new CRT's getting built.

[Anonymous No.3659670]

[Anonymous No.3659676]

[Anonymous No.3659683]

[Anonymous No.3659689]

>>3659238
sanyo, black jvc, sharp, phillips made decent crts

high end Sony, Mitsubishi, Toshiba JVC i'art and some samsung are good

rgb pro monitors are very good to great depending on tvl and condition.


problems vary wildly from set to set though so anything with at least an s-video connection in good shape is worth taking a look at. As far as scanlines are concerned aperture grill>shadowmask, size plays a huge factor too. I have a 35" shadowmask with well defined scanlines. and a 20" where they are negligible

[Anonymous No.3659696]

[Anonymous No.3659705]

>>3659249
What, you can't use google yourself?
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/14-inch-21-inch-CRT-TV_60177559305.html

[Anonymous No.3659710]

[Anonymous No.3659713]

[Anonymous No.3659715]

[Anonymous No.3659718]

[Anonymous No.3659726]

[Anonymous No.3659746]

>>3659607
Nothing. Ozfags are giving KBHR36s away, quite literally, go on Gumtree and look. It's how I got mine.

[Anonymous No.3659750]

>>3659705
I doubt a TV made in Shezhen, Guangdong is going to be anything but shabby junk compared to Japanese TV of the late 90s/early 2000s.

Why don't you buy one and test it out.
Post the results here.

[Anonymous No.3659758]

Hey guys, I'm been playing on a shitty CRT I've had as a kid for ages now, but I just upgraded to a bigger one I got for free of off CL.

It's a KV-27FS200 Sony WEGA Trinitron. Did I do good? I just beat Gradius II on it and I think it looks decent myself, but I have little experience with CRT's outside of the aforementioned one I had as a kid.

>>3658774
>Gradius II
mah nigga (pic related)

[Anonymous No.3659776]

>>3634558
ok, so tl;dr the thread but....

what is the best consumer model of trinitron?
my dump has like 20 of them

[Anonymous No.3659801]

>>3659746
>google kbhr36
>no results

[Anonymous No.3659815]

>>3659801
Whoops
*KVHR36M31 to be precise

[Anonymous No.3659824]

>>3659815
thanks, I see it's a widescreen flat CRT.
Are there any issues to be aware of compared to a more conventional style when playing SNES/64??

[Anonymous No.3659830]

>>3659824
From what I can gather, it is the Australian equivalent to the XBR960. It makes an excellent choice for HD games; however, your older games will be scaled which means input lag and no light gun support

[Anonymous No.3659837]

>>3659830
Ah i see, then that kinda defeats the purpose of getting a CRT i guess.

Not to mention this asshole wants $350 for his
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/blackburn-south/tvs/sony-36-crt-tv/1131834832

[Anonymous No.3659842]

off-topic, but any good 240p projectors?

[Anonymous No.3659863]

>>3659842
CRT projectors.

[Anonymous No.3659928]

>>3659318
Yuck you butchered the picture

[Anonymous No.3659945]

>>3659824
>>3659830
>>3659837
It's more like the XBR910 except instead of DVI we get H/V Sync pins on one of the Component inputs turning it into VGA with undocumented support for 15khz modes when used with a Sync Strike or gscartsw.

I'm going to be doing some further testing with a Dreamcast mic, but I've found the lag over RGBHV to be VERY low on 240p and 480i in Game Mode which disables the Sony DRC processor and ALL de-interlacing, it simply linedoubles to 480p, skipping every odd/even line. It's still not low enough for a light-gun to work but infinitely better than running my XRGB mini and LCD all my gear was on before which was ~30ms.

There's absolutely no artifacting whatsoever in 240p in Game Mode and furthermore it handles 240p->480i 30hz drop-shadows flawlessly when using 1080i up-scaling.

[Anonymous No.3660061]

>>3659945
do CRT's like this do progressive scan?
do they do 60Hz?

[Anonymous No.3660152]

I picked up my first CRT monitor since 2004 a few weeks back. It's a Samsung Syncmaster 955DF.

So far I'm loving it, kind of surprised me that it does 1600x1200 but sadly at 60hz. Is there any way I can pump more out of it or does that "out of sync" message mean the end of the line?

[Anonymous No.3660167]

>>3660152
That was a cheap cut-down monitor and has maximum hsync of 85kHz so no, you've pretty much reached its limit.

For more details/calculations see:
http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=657132

[Anonymous No.3660172]

>>3660167
85 khz isnt bad

[Anonymous No.3660182]

>>3660172
My ViewSonic G90f has 97kHz and cost less than 10 bucks in mint condition.

[Anonymous No.3660191]

>>3660167
Thanks! This is helpful. I would have loved to get a better model obviously but in my city the pickings are rather slim for CRT monitors.

[Anonymous No.3660193]

>>3660152
Samsung monitors usually suck when you're trying to display anything above 1600*1200 on them (I own a syncmaster 925b, 1600*1200 is the highest I'm willing to go even though it can go higher).

[Anonymous No.3660196]

>>3660193
One weird thing about it I noticed is the max resolution is listed as 1600x1200 but windows and Nvidia control panel give me the option for 1794x1344. Using that seems to actually put it in 1600X1200 though.

[Anonymous No.3660201]

>>3660196
1794*1344 is the real highest resolution, but don't use it, it's kinda blurry and texts are hard to read.

[Anonymous No.3660214]

>>3634558
Are arcade monitors any different than consumer TVs at a basic level? I mean, I read a lot about 15khz and finding a video card that will output that. My wii can output 240p, as well as my ps2. So if i run arcade ports on either one, will they be noticeably different than getting a modded graphics cards?

[Anonymous No.3660265]

>>3660214
Some arcade monitors are tri-sync so they accept 24kHz signals for 384p output.

I'm not aware of any TVs which can do that.

[Anonymous No.3660514]

>>3660214
They were using higher quality tubes than TVs.

[Anonymous No.3660616]

>>3659750
I will, once the chinese TV I already have finally breaks.

Still, new CRT TVs. Why does everyone say they don't exist when they do?

[Anonymous No.3660620]

>>3660616
Because going on Ali Express and ordering a TV hobbled together from parts found laying in a warehouse isn't quite a "new crt."

[Anonymous No.3660703]

>>3660620
They've been selling these for years. If it was just parts found in a warehouse, I think they would have run out by now.

[Anonymous No.3661137]

>>3660061
It does 50-120hz. It's native horizontal scan-rate is 33.75khz, which gives you 1080i, 540p double-strike (same way 240p is achieved) or 480i/576i @100/120hz respectively. 480p is achieved by over-scanning (or under-scanning in the case of 576p) the frame within 540p.

[Anonymous No.3661159]

>>3660061
>>3661137
*480i/576i @120hz/100hz respectively

[Anonymous No.3661168]

>>3661137
don't they just pull down to 31khz ?

[Anonymous No.3661220]

New thread?

[Anonymous No.3661246]

>>3634558
Found this tv thrown out, IS IT ANY GOOD?

[Anonymous No.3661248]

>>3661246
No. DVD combi suggests it's cheap and Polaroid aren't known for quality. Looks like a fairly rubbish (if new-ish) shadow mask.

[Anonymous No.3661249]

Just picked up a Samsung ssc 21m color quad monitor. Does anyone know if I can get side to work on this? I tried and can't figure it out. Pic related

[Anonymous No.3661257]

Pic also related ssc 21m sorry don't know how to reply to comments on clover

[Anonymous No.3661265]

>>3661249
>>3661257
Looks pretty nice to me. Old CCTV monitor, 450TVL. It only takes composite but other than that looks pretty decent.

[Kya@mobile No.3661270]

>>3661168
>>3661168
Pull up to 33.7 kHz actually.

[Anonymous No.3661280]

>>3661265
Thanks. Also picked up two trinitron pvm 20L1

[Anonymous No.3661303]

>>3661249
Does anyone know what that svideo alarm reset gnd is used for in the quoted pic

My pic unegated sort of

[Anonymous No.3661382]

What sort of PVM should I be looking for?

When I searched on ebay, pic related came up. I was expecting to see proces into the thousands, but these seem okay unless they're actually crap.

I don't know the difference between BVM and PVM

[Anonymous No.3661558]

>>3661382
Those are all pretty old and/or low end models. Condition is all though when it comes to these things.

PVM = Professional Video Monitor - covers everything from security monitors up to editing.

BVM = Broadcast Video Monitor - the Creme de la Creme of CRTs.

[Anonymous No.3661561]

>>3661382
Oh, and you're surely not contemplating shipping one from US/Europe to Australia right?

Right?

[Anonymous No.3661576]

>>3661303
It's not svideo, just DIN.

It might trigger channel switching in case of an external signal from the building's alarm system?

[Anonymous No.3661825]

>>3661558
>>3661561
Understood, what's a good model BVM or PVM to keep an eye out for?

And no I wouldn't have a TV shipped from overseas, that's just what appeared in my search

[Anonymous No.3661934]

Thoughts on this TV? Model isn't listed so i don't know what inputs it has, but looks like a nice sized Sony with flat 4:3 screen.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/pascoe-vale-south/tvs/tv-sony-great-working-condition/1131458855

Also, are rear projection tv's good for retro gaming? or regular projectors for that matter?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.3661971]

Picking up a BVM-D24E1 for $500, not including shipping. I'm an idiot but now at least I'm an idiot with one more CRT in the storage unit.

[Anonymous No.3662063]

Has anyone used their PC on a BVM with HD-SDI?

If so, what has been your luck, is it better than using VGA to BNC?

[Anonymous No.3662203]

4 u /crt/

>tfw you actually play nes games over rf cause you're out of spots on your switcher

just like old times r-right?

[Anonymous No.3662464]

>>3661934
It's probably fine if you're cool with max 480i/576i, as it's an FD Trinitron I'd bet a dollar it's got at least one Component input.

[Anonymous No.3662482]

>>3662464
I would want 480p if possible. Would this not have it?
Would it do 240p?