Repair/Mod General - Game Tech Wiki

[Anonymous No.3430196]

Got questions about repairs or mods you're working on? Bring 'em here.

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

When attempting to fix any problems with your old hardware, the first thing you should do is thoroughly clean everything. That may fix whatever problem you had. Check out this guide for tips:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

[Anonymous No.3430262]

I have a copy of Yoshi's Story for N64 that lately has started crashing after about 15-30 minutes of playtime. When it gets back to the "Nintendo" screen it starts rapidly resetting about once a second. What could be the possible cause of this? Could the capacitor on the cartridge have gone bad, or is there something worse wrong with it? None of my other games are having this problem so it's not the N64's fault.

[Anonymous No.3430374]

>>3430262
Have you opened up the game and looked for any visible damage?

[Anonymous No.3430430]

>>3430374
I gave it a visual inspection, cleaned the contacts thoroughly and also cleaned up some flux on the back of the board but it still has the problem.

My personal guess is that the capacitor is at fault. In theory, it could be taking a charge when the game boots, but can't maintain it for long and then when the charge runs out, the game resets back to the start screen and keeps restarting because there's no charge left in the capacitor.

I don't have much knowledge of how N64 carts work, but from what I understand if there were any bad traces or broken solder joints on the board it wouldn't be starting up at all. If I can figure out what kind of capacitor N64 cartridges use it would be easy to replace. If that doesn't work then one of the chips might be bad, in which case the easiest fix would be to migrate the ROM chip to a compatible donor cart. Hopefully it doesn't come down to that.

[Anonymous No.3430443]

>>3430430
I suppose I should also try some other games to see if it's just Yoshi's Story that's a problem or if other games are at fault. Apparently other people are having this problem and it's related to the AC adapter for them.

[Anonymous No.3430447]

>>3430443
A faulty or worn out AC adapter can cause issues like you're saying.

Inspect all the pins for any cold solder joints that may have cracked.

Also, clean the cartage slot if you can

[Anonymous No.3431257]

>>3430447
As suspected the AC adapter was the problem, not the game itself. I tested Rogue Squadron and it crashed even faster (probably because it's more resource intensive). Some people get around this problem by wedging paper under the AC adapter to make it fit more snug, but I decided to take the thing apart and put some hot glue under the connector to secure it at the top of its cavity, with pressure from the lower half of the AC adapter pushing upward to keep it in place.

That seems to have done the trick. Both Rogue Leader and Yoshi's Story were able to keep playing with no crashes.

[sageru No.3431263]

>>3430262

Very strange, I have a similar problem. Exact same symptoms of ~20 min playtime, followed by closer and closer spaced resets.

I've been blaming the N64 I got off ebay, because the game (DK64) seems to work fine on my other N64. I also tried swapping for a known good power adapter and the problem still persists.

I guess I'll look into it today

[Anonymous No.3431276]

>>3431263
Try wedging two pieces of folded paper under the sides of the power supply (you don't want to wedge anything under the eject mechanism). Roughly the thickness of 4 sheets should to the trick. If that fixes the problem then I'd say open it up and try putting some hotglue under the connector for a more permanent remedy.

[Anonymous No.3431278]

My SNES is having problems.

In Super Mario All-Stars, the left side of every sprite has a white inner outline. Also sometimes the music will be corrupted and the game can crash, though this might just be the cartridge.

[Anonymous No.3431284]

>>3431278
Text in Link to the Past is blue in places. Notice how the lowercase L's are colored differently.

[Anonymous No.3431290]

>>3431284
Also this white line on the left shows up sometimes and reacts to what moves onscreen.

[Anonymous No.3431305]

>>3431278
>>3431284
>>3431290
This seems like a problem related to the video processor, but I'm no expert. Anyone else care to opine?

[Anonymous No.3431445]

>>3431305
Tried taking another picture of LttP.

Link also has the white discoloration on the left, just like Mario. There's a line of garbage on the wall and a bit of garbage on the door on the bottom.

I cleaned it thoroughly, so it must be a problem with the internals...

[Anonymous No.3431464]

>>3431445
It gets worse!

[Anonymous No.3431487]

>>3431278
you at least tried a different TV right

[Anonymous No.3431505]

>>3431487
yes, i tried multiple tvs and multiple video outputs.

no change

[Anonymous No.3431645]

I have just recently bought a SNES off of Craigslist and it came with a few games. All of them work except for this copy of Super Street Fighter II. I have cleaned the connectors with alcohol and Q-tips about three times, went over everything with a pink eraser, and it still doesn't work. Makes me think that it's something else but the board looks pretty good to me but I'm not an aficionado.

I've tried googling, but to no avail; every site just says to clean it if a SNES cartridge doesn't work.

[Anonymous No.3431846]

Same poster as >>3431278

I've been researching what the problem is through gameplay. So, I'm 100% certain that there's a hardware problem with my SNES when it has to handle layers. It appears to be incorrectly deciding what parts of some layers need to behind or above parts of other layers.

I'm not sure why this often leads to the left side of things either disappearing or gaining a white outline, but the problem doesn't exist when there are a very few amount of layers and it doesn't affect Mode 7 graphics.

[Anonymous No.3431868]

>>3431645
Well, I see two things it might be. There's some corrosion around the capacitor, and the cap itself might be bad too.

[Anonymous No.3432000]

>>3431868
Where's the corrosion? It looks perfectly fine to me.

I just tested the capacitor using a Multimeter and its read-outs are fine. It spits out a number and then returns back to 1. Which is the behavior of a good capacitor from what I've read.

[Anonymous No.3432075]

>>3431445
>>3431464
Someone with an oscilloscope would probably test the video chip for this kind of problem. It's possible that the video chip is shot, but there might just be a loose solder joint somewhere on the board.

[Anonymous No.3432080]

>>3431868
Caps leak so I guess its that. The traces might of been eaten away. But you are going to have to in there and test the traces.

[Anonymous No.3432554]

>>3431645
These traces are broken, apply some pressure with a screw driver to those pins and they will most likely move freely confirming this, you will have to bridge them.

[Anonymous No.3432656]

>>3432554
Oh wow, nice catch. He might be able to solder them back but chances are a jump is needed or a donor board

[Anonymous No.3432659]

>>3432656
>>3432554
http://www.snescentral.com/pcbboards.php?chip=SHVC-BJ0N-01

Went ahead and got a list of the games that could be used as a donor.

[Anonymous No.3433301]

I did a Tim Worthington RGB mod on my N64, but it has extremely visible jailbars and noise. What would cause this? I'm using Csync on a Framemeister with FirebrandX's profiles and I get the same result with my SNES SCART cable.

[Anonymous No.3433356]

>>3433301
Here's what it looks like in motion.

[Anonymous No.3433787]

Hey duders. I picked up a jungle green funtastic N64 at a small thrift store recently. Cant get any signal at all, via S-Video or composite. I verified the cables work because they work with my SNES and GC just fine. I verified the game cartridges work on a friend's console. I'm plugging this into a Trinitron. When I turn it on and off there is a slight flash/flicker on the screen for a split second, like you'd expect, but then it's just blackness. So I don't know if its the cart reading pins that are bad, or something wrong with the video output or something? It looks like it's in great shape otherwise. Yes, the expansion pack is seated properly.

[Anonymous No.3433890]

>>3432554
>>3432656
>>3432659
Most of the carts are basically the price of another street fighter II, which sort of defeats the purpose for me. If I could find one of those games for like 2 or 3 bucks maybe. But it seems like they're mostly 10 and up.

How would I go about trying to re-solder the traces? Or bridging it like the first person said.

[Anonymous No.3433930]

Finally RGB modded my SNES mini. After fucking up one of those $20 pre made amps, I decided to make my own as it was much cheaper and more fun. I used 1.2k Ohm resistors to reduce the brightness and the quality is unbelievable. RetroRGB says that the image generally looks fine without the resistors, but I had tried 1.1k Ohm before and it looked extremely bright, maybe I just fucked up.

[Anonymous No.3434083]

>>3433890
Yeah, I would bridge them, you can grind the traces around the broken part to reveal the copper.

Once you can see the copper coat both sides (the sides separated by the crack) with tin till it looks silvery.

Grab a little thin wire (like the ones used for shielding coax cables, see pic related) and put it on the place you coated with tin before..

Solder a little bit more tin on top of it so it stays in place, and that should do it. Now repeat for all the other broken traces.

I would recommend checking for continuity before testing. But what the hell, sometimes I don't do it and nothing bad has ever happened.

Now, be careful and try to be as clean as you can, try to use solder paste, it really helps.

[Anonymous No.3434089]

>>3433930
That looks pretty clean, congrats my dude.

[Anonymous No.3434161]

>>3434083
My Commodore 64 must have had a cracked trace somewhere, because any pressure on a certain part of the board would cause it to stop working. I couldn't put it back together without causing it to stop working. I ended up just taping a piece if rigid plastic to the bottom of the board to prevent that spot from flexing, and it worked. I suppose the right way to do it would be to find the cracked trace, although that would likely take several hours and I don't have a very good multimeter (it doesn't even have a beeper).

For now I'm just glad it works.

[Anonymous No.3434323]

>>3433787
YO WHY THE FUCK DON'T MY N64 WORK YOU BUNCH OF GOOBERS

[Anonymous No.3434387]

>>3433890
Go ahead and try bridging, just get some small wire.

[Anonymous No.3434395]

>>3430196

[Anonymous No.3434401]

>>3430196
Another

[Anonymous No.3434404]

Another 1

[Anonymous No.3434432]

>>3434387
CAT5 (ethernet) is a good source for thin wire. IDE ribbon cable is even better.

[Anonymous No.3434446]

>>3434432
Those are both horrible and difficult to solder in my experience. IDE cable in particular barely could hold solder, and it was so thin that it couldn't hold its own weight.

I'd recommend getting a spindle of kynar wire. For patching small traces and connecting broken pins and the like, they are great. Very easy to handle, and very small, great for PCB work.

For loose wires (power cables and the like) you might want to get something with more copper in it though, something with plenty of strands inside the cable.

>>3434395
>>3434401
>>3434404
Nice early Saturn, what's your problem with it?

[Anonymous No.3434468]

>>3434395
The spindle won't spin and the laser won't move.

[Anonymous No.3435038]

I know DS isn't /vr/ but I have nowhere else to go.

I got a DSL and the top panel is blue-tinted instead of yellow.

what worries me though, is that when I turn it off, particularly when it's showing black on white (like the boot logo, anything with contrast), blacks gets 'burned' into the screen and take a few seconds to dissipate.

any idea what's causing it? maybe it's a different kind of panel? or is it dying?

[Anonymous No.3435113]

Are there any controllers of other consoles that are compatible with the Neo Geo?

[Anonymous No.3435718]

Does anyone actually help anyone with anything in this fucking thread??

[Anonymous No.3435769]

>>3434468
Does it boot to the cd player? Does it say that the drive is open, or that it can't find a disc? Does it have broken sound effects and miscoloured cubes on the side, or is the CD player functioning fine other than the lack of CD?

Saturns should center the laser on bootup regardless if a CD is found or can be read, so if your unit doesn't do that, than possible problems can be
- SH1 is broken. If this was the case, the unit wouldn't even boot to the cd player.
- CD drive is not getting power, or is not connected to the machine. If this is the case, you get the broken SFX and miscoloured cubes. Check the connections on the ribbon, the power plug of the drive, and check if the little sub-board underneath the RF shield is connecting properly.
- CD drive is getting power, but something on its board is broken - either the microcontroller, or the motor controller chips. If this is the case you'd need to replace the drive, but the upside is that the laser may still be in good health.

Also it could be just the caps being used up on the drive, so you could try replacing those at first.

[Anonymous No.3436656]

I watched some youtube videos of GameTechUS repairing stuff that I wanted to also try to fix. I ended up watching a bunch of his videos on how to repair and mod shit just for fun.
Any other channels similar to this? I never thought I would find electronics repair interesting.

[Anonymous No.3436670]

>>3436656
His channel is shit for it. He doesn't go into depth what he is doing and just post those videos to get you to buy from him.

Find some one who's not doing it to sell shit and doing it for fun/to show other people how to do stuff.

[Anonymous No.3436728]

>>3436656
RetroGameTech

also bigclivedotcom, although but he hasn't done any gaming stuff, but its still interesting to watch/listen.

[Anonymous No.3436731]

>>3436670
I seem to follow along. I think he just doesn't reiterate things that he has shown in earlier videos.

>Find some one who's not doing it to sell shit and doing it for fun/to show other people how to do stuff.
I was asking for other channels. If you know of any, I'd like to see.

[Anonymous No.3436753]

>>3436731
>>3436728
https://www.youtube.com/user/GadgetUK164

[Anonymous No.3438674]

Hey folks. As a facts seeker I was wondering, does anyone know when debug menus started to be implemented in video games?

I know that the debug tools are traditionnaly used by devs for checking software anomalies, but I know that some people use them for their own purposes as well (cheat, hacks...).

By the way, have you ever resorted on such tools in one of your repairing/tweaking projects?

[Anonymous No.3438980]

>>3433301
From what I see online:

Try fixing the PSU. Apparently the N64 has adjustable caps in the PSU, and you need to make sure it's sending out exactly the right voltage.

Try taking your power source from near the power switch, since that's where the power is cleanest.

Might be the issue, I dunno.

>>3435113
No, only the Neo Geo used the DA15, most everyone else used DA9.

>>3435718
You are a whiny fuck ain't ya?

[Anonymous No.3439006]

>>3434446
The IDE ribbon I've been using has been working fine. I've done a couple of mods with it. Maybe some are better than others, although in my case I always tinned the wires before soldering them to anything.

[Anonymous No.3439223]

>getting ready to do s-video mod to Genesis model 1 VA3
>realize I don't need all the fucking components I have
>all I need is wire, two pots, transistor, and 220uf 6.3v cap
>got wire, got two pots, got transistor, fuck don't have the cap
>fuck, I'll just work on re-capping it today
>the cap on the underside of the motherboard is 220uf 6.3v
>seems to be the only motherboard revision that even uses a 220uf 6.3v
Looks like I'm getting this thing done after all.

[Anonymous No.3439364]

>>3438980
Yeah, that's what I thought. Looks like I'll be troubleshooting a bit or buying a new power supply. Hopefully I'll resolve the problem within a few days though, I just ordered Mischief Makers after hearing good things about it.

[Anonymous No.3439797]

How hard are the Atari 2600 s-video and SNES mini rgb mods to do for an absolute beginner?

Stuff like >>3433930 doesn't look too crazy, but I've never messed with small electronics like consoles.

[Anonymous No.3440970]

>>3439797
I've only done the composite mod for a 2600 but it was pretty easy. The results weren't perfect but it worked.

SNES Jr. RGB mod is probably about the same level of difficulty, potentially easier since you don't have to drill any holes and it's all internal.

There's also an RGB mod for the Atari 2600 that gives very stunning results. It's a fair bit more advanced than either of the aforementioned mods, but it's easier and less expensive than the NES RGB mod.

http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=210&rn=552&action=show_detail

[Anonymous No.3441516]

>>3440970
Thanks for the reassurance. I'll probably buy one of those learn to solder kits off of amazon before I go potentially breaking anything to be safe.

>Atari 2600 Jr: not yet
S-Video or composite it is then.

[Anonymous No.3441718]

Hi /vr/. Recently dug out my N64. Cleaned off all the contacts both on my carts and in the system, and everything worked! Except my copy of Smash 64. Just a blank screen when I turn it on, regardless of what I do to the cart. I took it apart (pic related) and couldn't see anything that looked busted. Didn't try replacing the battery but my understanding is that it would work even with a dead battery correct? Just no save data.

Any advice on what my next course of action should be? I'd rather not have to buy another copy.

[Anonymous No.3441723]

>>3441718
What did you clean your copy of smash with?

I see some tarnishing still on the left side pins on the bottom picture

[Anonymous No.3441734]

>>3441723
70% rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, same as all my other carts. That same tarnish is on some of my other carts as well, but they still work, (see pic, my copy of Ocarina)

[Anonymous No.3441736]

>>3441734
some more aggressive measures might be needed.

[Anonymous No.3441741]

>>3441736
I'll see about finding an eraser and give it a shot then.

[Anonymous No.3441752]

>>3441718
Better pic of the underside please, I can't make out the solder connections.

[Anonymous No.3441776]

>>3441752
Better?

[Anonymous No.3441797]

>>3441776
Scratch that, I gave it a good rub down with an eraser and it's working now. Sorry about being a dumbass.

[Anonymous No.3441802]

>>3441797
No problem. Always check the contacts and if there's any black rub them down.

[Anonymous No.3441838]

>>3430196

I just put an MM3 modchip into my PSone. It's pretty nice, here's what I did:

-ordered "PIC12F509" off ebay. I opted for the DIP package.
-ordered "PIC K150 programmer"

I used "mm3 hex dump" from eurasia

Programming the chip was pretty easy, I keep an airgapped windows setup for stuff like this. Just install drivers from the zip, then launch the programming thing. It will autofix the OSCAL (last value in hex) at flash time for you.

Wiring it up was quite a pain. One tip I will tell you is that the modchip will not fit if you place it directly on top of the big SONY chip like lots of diagrams have it. You want to use a decent length of wire so that you can fit it over to the right side and up of the big chip. I had to start again resolder everything.

I mostly used some 34 gauge wire I had laying around from my SNES mod. Soldering wire 3 is the most difficult part, I accidentally knocked off and it and had to solder it back on.

It works strangely, it seems I have to power cycle it quickly, then it works. It usually won't work from a cold boot.

[Anonymous No.3441875]

>>3441718
As >>3441723 said it might be in need of a tougher cleaning. Try using a pink rubber eraser and then cleaning the rubber debris away with alcohol or windex.

If it stil ldoesn't work, a cold solder joint could be at fault. There are ways to test all the connections but the most straightforward approach would be to reflow all the solder joints using a soldering iron. It's a slow process but there's not much that could go wrong as long as you know how to handle an iron. Putting flux on all the joints first would make it easier, too.

[Anonymous No.3441895]

So what are my chances of getting in on the next batch of OSSC units? Apparently there will be 500 openings next month. I can't take the shitty deinterlacing on my Saturn and PS2 anymore.

[Anonymous No.3441943]

>>3441875
You should read more. He responded roughly an hour ago that he fixed the issue.

[Anonymous No.3442650]

>>3441838

update: was getting some bad performance with streaming audio (skips, microstutter) with burned discs, but I adjusted the pot on the laser 45 degrees clockwise to make it stronger and everything runs great full speed now. Performance on cold boot seems better now too.

Willing to answer questions if anyones got some about the process of flashing your own chips, soldering etc. (you)s pls

[Anonymous No.3442994]

>>3441838
Just a heads up for anyone else reading this, don't use too long of wires on these chips. If your wires are too long then the chip won't function properly and it'll prevent any game (official or burned) from booting. I'm guessing the longer wires cause a bit of a delay in the timing and fucks everything up.

[Anonymous No.3443181]

>>3441838
>>3442994

OP here, pic related is where the modchip needs to end up in order for the heat shield to fit. It still ends up pretty snug.

As for the legs, I bent the legs until they were flat out, then trimmed about 80% of the leg off, leaving just a little stub to solder to. I then wrapped the chip in electrical tape to prevent shorts, but I did not use any hot glue.

I did not do a sensor mod yet, and it doesn't seem like I need one for my purposes.

[Anonymous No.3443558]

>>3443181

The brand of CDs I have been using is "Verbatim". They are the same ones I have burning for my Dreamcast.

I am using a Macbook Pro 2012 (last with optical drive) to burn the CDs. I found an open-source program called "Burn" that will handle .cue and .bin files. I am burning at 10x speed (slowest it will let me). I have also burned some CDs at 24x (fastest, default speed) and those ones seemed fine as well.

I have not been able to burn any CD images that were originally compressed as .ecm files, even after using ecm-uncompress on linux. Burn just crashes immediately when I try to burn these. I have one file in .mds, .mdf that I will probably have to try on my windows machine.

The region-free seems to be working, I was able to play some NTSC-J games. I don't care about 50 hertz so haven't tried PAL stuff.

The "stealth" part seems to be working, as I am able to play Dino Crisis (modchip protection).

So far every CD I have burned (~40) has worked. Audio had a little stutter before I tweaked the laser pot, now everything plays about ~99% just as well as my original copies. It feels like I'm getting a little bit more loud accidental noises on transitions between scenes etc. when compared to my retail disks. It might be placebo. Streaming audio from disk even while loading sounds great now, so I'm happy.

[Anonymous No.3444362]

Have a rather interesting problem. I've been working on a few NES consoles I have and I've been getting mild shocks.

I determined that if I touch the RF shield or any ground on the NES and touch the metal edge of my table I get shocked. I tested it with a multi meter and to my surprise it said there was 1.5v AC going across.

I tried powering the NES without any hook ups to my TV and this voltage isn't present any more on ground. I am thinking maybe my TV is at fault and some how causing a feedback though RCA and RF ground to the RF shielding.

[Anonymous No.3444468]

>>3443558
Compared to the saturn for instance the way psx games are formatting have worse error correction. Mode 1(saturn) therefore contains 288 bytes per sector for error detection and correction, leaving 2,048 bytes per sector available for data. Mode 2(PSX), which is more appropriate for image or video data (where perfect reliability may be a little bit less important), contains no additional error detection or correction bytes, having therefore 2,336 available data bytes per sector.

[Anonymous No.3444985]

>>3442650
>>3443181
Nice, this is what I came here for. I bought an MM3 chip for my PS1, SCPH-7001. It's pre-programmed, and I'm guessing you are using the smaller console when you say PSone, which I'm not. I also bought kynar wire from eurasia since it seemed cheap.

Do you have links to tutorials / pin diagrams on installing it? The one on eurasia is low resolution and hard to read, particularly pins 5 and 6. I don't have access to heat shrink tools but electrical tape sounds good too. Any tips you can give me would help as my soldering experience is limited to replacing burst caps on a monitor. There are some tutorials on youtube but they are usually for a different model and have poor lighting/video.

Also the wiki in the OP appears to be momentarily dead.

[Anonymous No.3444992]

Wait, why couldn't he use newer SRAMs in a top loader NES? He says they were "too fast" but I'm pretty sure RAM has to be => to the speed of the system it's in.

[Anonymous No.3444998]

Where can I get decent flash carts for GBA and GBC that work with both game boy player and all official handhelds? I don't want to pay the krikzz premium ($200 for both combined) just for real time clock to play pokemon.

I've had bad experience with sellers lately, ones that take 2+ months or don't ship at all, looking for one maybe inside the US.

[Anonymous No.3445003]

>>3444992
I don't believe that was the problem, I think he was too lazy to make an adapter to match the socket pinout on the thing.

[Anonymous No.3445024]

>>3444998
Ordering from China takes 2-3 weeks dude. You're not going to get Chinese EverDrives at reasonable prices in the US because it's all sellers pretending they're the 'real deal'.

[Anonymous No.3445026]

https://www.lo-tech.co.uk/wiki/Lo-tech_1MB_RAM_Board

Yeah why can you use this on an IBM XT which is barely any faster than a NES, but he can't use a new SRAM in there?

[Anonymous No.3445043]

your wiki isn't loading

[Anonymous No.3445052]

>>3444992
Most Chinese NES clones are just...not very good. They never get the sound right and they also often don't work with stuff like MMC5 carts.

It's funny because back in the 90s, the Dendy was actually pretty good but newer clones suck dick.

[Anonymous No.3445058]

>>3445052
I believe the Dendy was created by actually decapping a PPU and 2A01. Newer clones probably they just read a Wikipedia page on what a NES is supposed to do.

[Anonymous No.3445309]

>>3445043
emugen here
pls fix

[Anonymous No.3445702]

>>3445058
The Dendy was created by actually slapping a sticker on a Micro Genius.

[Anonymous No.3445826]

>>3445052
I once ran a bunch of test roms on a globtop one.
Most of them failed which means that nestopia is way more accurate than those.

>>3445058
The early famiclones were almost 1:1 copies of the original famicom which has like 2 custom chips being the CPU and PPU, the rest are standard parts. They might managed to make quite decent copies by manufacturing their cloned chips in the NMOS process (which is the same as the original), they might got their masks for making those by decapping but it's also possible that some factory workers at Ricoh "stole" the plans and sold/gave it to someone in china or who the heck knows.

>Newer clones probably they just read a Wikipedia page on what a NES is supposed to do.
They might saw a need to make them in the CMOS process for more power efficiency (or it's something factory related) but that requires to change the whole thing, so they probably tried to reverse engineer it and quickly changed everything without thinking twice or once and then the testing was done very quickly using SMB1, the first level or so because they can't waste time on testing things.

This is what I'm thinking about famiclones.

[Anonymous No.3445894]

where's the wiki

[Anonymous No.3445909]

Both the GameTech Wiki and Emulation General Wiki seem to be down.

[Anonymous No.3445912]

WIKI STUCK

PLEASE

I BEG YOU

[Anonymous No.3446075]

>>3445912
Google has it all in it's cache.

[Anonymous No.3446094]

Is there anyway to fix a shoulder button for a gameboy micro other than getting a new one soldered?

[Anonymous No.3446124]

I accidentally snapped off this cable holder that connects to my PSX disk tray. I'm attempting to add a PSone disk tray to my model 1001. What do?

[Anonymous No.3446194]

Alright, I just got my combo stereo AV cable for my Model 1 Genesis and 32x.

I have video and it looks great. Only problem is I have no sound. I can confirm that the sound is coming out of the head phone jack but it's not coming out of the 32x. I have a mono cable hooked into the 32x right now. I should be able to hear at least one channel right?

[Anonymous No.3446198]

>>3446194
Never mind. Looking at the pin out they separated mono audio and stereo.

Looks like I need to order another damn cable

[Anonymous No.3446201]

>>3446124
Looks like you could solder it back on.

[Anonymous No.3446204]

>>3446201
I'm thinking the same thing. How hard do you estimate it would be? Is there a chance I could burn the PCB if I use too much?

[Anonymous No.3446216]

>>3446204
Well, don't try and solder it while its in the case. Strip it down and then solder it. It shouldn't be too hard. You should clean those pads up with some fresh solder and then try and solder them in. The 4 square pads around it look like the ground. Those would be the first thing to solder into place before going for the small pins.

[Anonymous No.3446315]

>>3446094
If the button itself is bad, no.

>>3446124
Solder that bitch back in place. Make sure you solder those two ground points in addition to the 4 pins.

[Anonymous No.3446317]

>>3446216
>>3446315
I did it with the help of a friend down the hall! Thanks a bunch, guys!

[Anonymous No.3446319]

>>3445826
>They might saw a need to make them in the CMOS process for more power efficiency
NMOS is obsolete and nobody uses that anymore.

[Anonymous No.3446687]

>>3446194
>>3446198
Where can I find a good pair of third party Sega Genesis 32X Stereo audio cables?

All I am seeing are shitty ones with mono hooked up

[Anonymous No.3446928]

>>3444985

Stripping 34g kynar is a pain, but I found a technique that will let me strip it with just some strippers designed for 30 gauge. I sort of fit the wire in at an angle and violently pinch the strippers closed and out in one motion. You only want to leave like a millimeter exposed for the most difficult joints (to one end of surface mount caps etc and ICs).

The way that worked for me (on try #2) was to strip and cut all wires, then solder one end of the wires to the board. Once I had all eight wires in place, i taped the chip down in place temporarily on top of the big SONY chip and soldered one side at a time (4 wires each side).

Soldering to the surface mount caps and resistors is a major, major pain in the ass. As I mentioned, I knocked off the resistor I had to solder to (point 3 in my diagram), and had to solder it back on. I managed to get it back on with a pair of tweezers and the standard size chisel tip I usually use, but was seriously considering having to go find or buy another my tiny needle point tip for my soldering iron. Work on a clean, well-lit surface so you can find the parts if you accidentally desolder them. I almost lost the resistor.

My advice is honestly to hold off on the mod until you have some experience with an easier mod. N64 RGB mod is pretty easy and a good intro to small soldering, SNES mini S-video mod will get you accustomed to soldering direct to IC legs with only 2 connections needed so you're more likely to succeed. I had one false start with the wire lengths, then even after using the right positioning I still had to open it up one more time because a wire broke off. This was kind of a pain overall.

There are also less fancy mods that only require three or four wires, look into the "Old Crow". I was strongly considering going with a shittier mod about 3 hours into my painful mod, only kept going with the MM3 because that had the most info out there.

post more after work

[Anonymous No.3447016]

>>3438674
Shameless selfbump (:

[Anonymous No.3447031]

>>3446928
>Stripping 34g kynar is a pain
Dude, you just stick it in the hole in the middle of your wire wrap tool and....oh wait this is /vr/ and no one know what that is. Any way it works great and makes the job piss easy.

[Anonymous No.3447471]

yo /vr/ bros, I need some input on a potential fuck up I did to my Saturn. I dug it out recently and tried to play a game. The system refused to read it so I adjusted the orange POT screw. Realizing I troubleshot this shit backwards and it was probably the disc I put the orange POT back in its original position and got the disc resurfaced. Lo and behold it worked (after the resurface). Would me fucking with the orange POT cause any long term damage? I know what I did was probably dumb. Be gentle.

[Anonymous No.3447731]

is the wiki going to come back?

[Anonymous No.3447925]

>>3447471
Doubt it. I'm pretty sure that pot adjusts the bias.

[Anonymous No.3447928]

are you dead
pls dont be dead
i dont wanna go back to wikia

[Anonymous No.3447948]

wiki

wiki

[Anonymous No.3448040]

this is what happens when you put all your eggs in one basket

[Anonymous No.3448404]

fix wiki

[Anonymous No.3448465]

>>3435038
Damaged flex cable to the screen probably. The cable's soldered on so you would have to replace the whole top screen.

>>3444992
There are a few cases where "too fast" RAM will not work, like if there's a momentary glitch on the address lines that happens too quickly for the original chip to register, but the new chip will register it and sends out the wrong data.

>>3444998
For GBA you're probably still better off with the Ezflash IV but there aren't many good modern GB options.

[Anonymous No.3449564]

Guys I need your input please.

Bad connection issue with my Saturn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGZawzTuY30

The issue is not the cable, I tried two. It comes and goes, sometimes it play normally then I turn off / on the console and this happens and won't go away for a while.

What's the problem here and how easy would it be to repair it considering I'm not tech-literate ? Last time I used an iron solder was 15 years ago.

Thanks

[Anonymous No.3449684]

My Pokemon Silver cart won't save anymore. I brought it a few years ago with a new battery installed. I think it needs changing already. Is it hard? I've seen videos online but I barely even know how to work a screwdriver.

[Anonymous No.3449796]

My Dreamcast's laser is fucked. I'm replacing it with another from another Dreamcast. My question is can I replace the entire pic related drive since it's ridiculously easy. Is there any compatibility issues between different Dreamcast versions?

[Anonymous No.3449802]

>>3449796
Of course I forgot the image.

[Anonymous No.3449825]

>>3449684

Wait, no, I think it's the connections. How do you clean cart connections? I cleaned it with a q-tip and it saved fine. I was able to turn it on and off at least five times. Now it's back to corrupt save files.

[Anonymous No.3450271]

Anyone knows how to get rid of the jail bars of the NES composite output?

[Anonymous No.3450515]

>>3449796
>>3449802
There are two different models of lasers, Samsung and Yamaha. I don't know if they are incompatible if you replace the entire assembly+PCB connected to the board or not. You should be fine.

>>3449564
>What's the problem here and how easy would it be to repair it considering I'm not tech-literate?
Could be bad caps going down, could be a bad solder connection somewhere. Unless you open it up and look around, or take a multimeter to it, you aren't likely to find the problem.

>>3449825
>How do you clean cart connections? I cleaned it with a q-tip and it saved fine.
Electrical contact cleaner. Get the good solvent free shit that doesn't damage plastics. Put some on the contacts, let it sit for about 10-15 minutes, then wipe.

[LaserDisc No.3450743]

Maybe you guys can help:

I have a laser disc player that won't play anything. It SEEMS to recognize when I put something in, but never seems to actually read it.

Where do I even start? After looking into it I have found out it was a fairly expensive commercial unit in the day, which is probably why I can't find any in the wild.

[Anonymous No.3450762]

Does anyone know who the wiki hoster is? Is there any way to contact them and find out what's up?

Does anyone know what's going on with the wiki at all?

Is it just gone forever? The emulation guys have a backup up and running already.

What's going to happen to the repair/mod wiki?

[Anonymous No.3450770]

>>3449825

Wait, would poor connctions cause the date to screw up? I started a new file and I put it for Wednesday. I turned it off and now my save thinks it is Saturday, but my save hasn't corrupted yet.

[Anonymous No.3450774]

>>3450762
Considering the last news update was 2 years ago, and the last thread it points too is just about as old I'd imagine it's gone. All the text seems salvageable but not the images

[Anonymous No.3450879]

>>3446687
Anyone at all?

[Anonymous No.3450936]

>>3450743
Start by learning how to describe problems you need diagnosed. You sound like one of those people who calls tech support and say "hurr duur muh printer no werk. How fix?"
Model? Does it spin up? Does it seek? Is it plugged in?

[Anonymous No.3451202]

I picked up a model 1 TMSS High Definition Graphics Genesis. The console works fine except for the fact that it always reads an "up" input on the first controller d-pad, even when a controller is not attached. Occasionally it will work okay if a controller is connected for about ten seconds before resuming the up input. I tried reflowing the solder joints directly attached to the controller port and continuity tests show that there is at least a line between the pins and the first set of solder joints. I think the issue is related to pin 7, but I'm not very knowledgeable about this system. Would replacing the controller port be a possible fix? Also, does anyone know what EM18 connects to on pic related?

[Anonymous No.3451315]

It's been a long time coming but my translated / localized Akumajo Densetsu EPROMs finally arrived from GameReproductions. Today was quite an exciting day because my FC Audio Castlevania 3 cartridge project has been on hold for at least a month while I waited for the EPROM chips to get here.

Installation onto the Madara board went pretty smoothly. I got a new solder sucker that works a lot better than the old douche-shaped one so desoldering the old ICs wasn't too hard. I also made sure to swap the leads on the A0 and A1 legs of the VRC6 chip, as that kind anon from a thread or two ago suggested. The game would be a horrific glitchy mess with distorted music otherwise.

[Anonymous No.3451321]

>>3451315
Here's a picture of it all put together. I am quite pleased with the end result and I feel like all the fuss was ultimately worth it to have something that looks clean and professional on the outside. In addition to the black cartridge it is a lot heavier than a typical NES cart. I actually like the fact that when you pick up and handle this game, you immediately know there's something more robust under the hood than a typical NES cartridge.

[Anonymous No.3451328]

>>3451321
And of course, here are some screenshots of it running on my NES. It plays perfectly and the music sounds exactly the way it should, plus the new localization offers some gramatical improvements over the original. Actually sitting down and playing the game like this is a real joy.

[Anonymous No.3451338]

>>3451202
Have you even cleaned the rubber pads and controller?

That's the first step before thinking there's a problem with a component.

[Anonymous No.3451374]

>>3451338
I cleaned the console. The up input happens even without any controller connected. My controllers also work on other Genesai.

[Anonymous No.3451386]

>>3451374
One of the EMI filters might be bad. The brown things that look like caps. Not sure what one but that's what the official service manual says

I imagine it wouldn't be hard to trace back to the right pin

[Anonymous No.3451458]

What's that retro console that can emulate as many other retro consoles as possible, allows homebrews and game sideloading and can be softmodded?

Aside from the xbox

[Anonymous No.3451494]

>>3451458
>xbox
>retro

get out.

[Anonymous No.3451550]

>>3451494
Give the kid a break. The xbox is older than he is.

[Anonymous No.3451551]

>>3451458
The xbox is not ideal for retro emulation because it doesn't do 240p. A wii would be a better option.

[Anonymous No.3451565]

>>3451494
>>3451550
>xbox
>not retro

Fucking kys you millennials trash, retro is not just about muh nintendo, ask your parents.

[Anonymous No.3451596]

>>3451565
gen 6 isn't fucking retro you dimwit

leave this board

[Anonymous No.3451634]

>>3451386
Thanks for the heads-up. I imagine it would be the one with continuity to pin 1 since that's where "up" is located, but apparently Sega had some fucked up controller tech back in the day so who knows. Turns out this model is a VA6, which is the same as my current model, although this one is in a high definition graphics case and has a date on the motherboard a year later than my non-HDG VA6. I didn't know HDGs were made that late. Anyways, I got it for free, and I'm hoping to fix it and give it to a friend.

I've never worked with EMI filters before. They all seem to have continuity, but I'm guessing replacement for at least the one connected to pin 1 is probably the best option.

[Anonymous No.3452879]

>>3451565
>millennials trash
Projecting pretty hard there sport. Back to your containment board. Your /v/illage is missing it's idiot.

[Anonymous No.3453118]

>>3451634
Yes replacing it might be the best option. Too bad I can't find diddly shit as far as a data page on them.

[Snes sound module No.3453187]

So im gonna replace the capacitors on the sound module of my Snes.

Sound is completely dead except from te occasional crackling noise, and only twice it has actually worked fine playing muaic until yhe game suddenly freezes.

Got a couple questions.

How can i diagnose that its actually the sound module fucking up and not one of the capacitors on the main board?

Right now ive had it on for about 40 minutes and its been playing the intro of the game fine, except theres no sound at all obviously.

Video cables are fine i tested them on my Super Famicom, its not a faulty video plug on the console either, ive cleaned it with alcohol and no dice, sound is dead.
Should i also replace the blue one that looks like a mint?

[Anonymous No.3453294]

you guys should probably start a new wiki looks like your guy is dead

[Anonymous No.3453302]

>>3453294
https://web.archive.org/web/20160518094401/http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page
salvage what you can from this

[Snes sound module No.3453375]

GUYS I DUM GOOFED BADLY.

I was cleaning my Snes and before closing it i decided to just test that it was working, and it was but i didnt screw the power switched, so it slipped and made contact with the aluminum shell, and now it doeant turn on at all.

WHAT THE FUCK did i just do : (

[Anonymous No.3453387]

>>3453375
take off the RF shield and check the left side of the pcb, near where the switch wires go. there is a fuse. see if it is blown. if so, replace.

if not blown, check the 7805 volt regulator (screwed to the heatsink) for voltage.

stay calm and fix that snes

[Anonymous No.3453407]

>>3453375
Most likely the fuse blew, get a ~$1 replacement.
Less likely the regulator blew. Get a ~$0.5 replacement.
Least likely the wall wart blew.

[Snes sound module No.3453420]

>>3453387
>>3453407

doesn't look blown off to me... how can i check the voltage on the regulator? i dont have my multimeter here.

[Anonymous No.3453427]

>>3453420
it won't have any physical indication of blowing.

[Anonymous No.3453428]

>>3453420
Did you check continuity of the fuse with a multimeter?

>how can i check the voltage on the regulator? i dont have my multimeter here.
You can't without a multimeter.
To check measure the voltage between O and G. It should be close to 5 volts. You can also measure between I and G to see whether you are getting any power at all.

[Snes sound module No.3453451]

>>3453427
>>3453428

ill check it tomorrow when i get a multimeter.. so it should be:

check continuity on the fuse, if its blown replace it.

If its good the check for voltage on the regulator, red tip on O pin and black tip on G pin? or the other way around?

[Anonymous No.3453458]

>>3453451
>red tip on O pin and black tip on G pin? or the other way around?
Doesn't matter. The former gives you 5 V while the latter gives -5 V.

[Anonymous No.3453538]

>>3453118
I can't find anything either. I found a recommendation on another page to jump the outer traces and ignore the middle ground point as a workaround. I hope it works.

[Anonymous No.3453545]

Anyone knows the part number/model of default Neo Geo gamepad microswitch (blue ones)? Unfortunately I have lost one.
Replacing it with other switches seems like an option, but I'd like to get default one.

[Anonymous No.3453554]

>>3453545
They seem like surface mounted tactile switches at 90 degrees.

You're most likely not going to be able to find an orgional replacement in this day and age.

[Anonymous No.3453653]

>>3453554
Finding replacement one with precisely same dimensions seems hard as well.

[Anonymous No.3453658]

>>3453653
dimensions aren't very important. You can wedge and run the legs out if you have to.

[LaserDisc No.3454061]

>>3450936
You know what, learn a little basic reading comprehension because I described the problem just fine. Model number isn't even remotely relevant here, and the other three questions were answered by the post you quoted.

Either way I got it working by electronically adjusting the laser until it was confirmed reading the movie, then adjusted it while playing until I got all the static off the screen as possible.

[Snes sound module No.3454173]

GOOD NEWS... i didnt fuck up my Snes, fuse was busted and now its working normally besides the sound cracking-lack off.

Anyways i cant believe i didnt think about using the sound module from my working Super Famicom, i just did and sound is working now so the actual problem is the aound module itself.

I cam only hear the ocassional cracking noise l, so my next step is replacing the capacitors on that fucker.

Anyone has done this before? whats the chance for the problem being the capacitors and not the actual sound chip?

Should i replace them with ones with the EXACT same specs or whats the range i could use and be safe?

both are 10v 47uf

[Anonymous No.3454271]

>>3453187
>until yhe game suddenly freezes.
This means the game tries to upload stuff into it but freezes (in a endless loop) as the audio CPU (S-SMP) doesn't respond to the main CPU.

>>3454173
Do both go to pins 9 and 10 of the DAC (NEC D6376)?
The newer revision only has one cap for these both pins (reference voltage for each channel), do you hear that noise on one channel or both?

[Snes sound module No.3454291]

>>3454271
mine isbthe first rev with removable sound module. just opened it up and i can see 2 caps in pic related, and also that blue ceramic chip which im not sure if i should replace or not.

Honestly im not sure if its only one chanmel oe both, is just a CRACKKKKKK noise for instance, when booting up Street Fighter and the capcom logo appears and the chyme is supposed yo play, theres only this BZZZZZZ for half a second then just silence.

When the screen changes therea another BZZZZZZ whenever a sound should be playing.

Just removed the caps and ill be goig to the store in few hours, will post results at night if i find suitable caps.

[Anonymous No.3454386]

gametechwiki is offline so I'm going to ask here: should I use normal rubbing alcohol to clean my snes cartridges shell? Isopropyl alcohol is hard to come by where I live.

[Snes sound module No.3454409]

they only have 10uf 35 v

can i use those?

[Anonymous No.3454418]

>>3454409
Voltage doesn't really matter except that higher voltage caps are fatter and/or taller. The capacity matters though if you don't get the same capacity it might not run properly.

[Anonymous No.3454467]

>>3454291
>that blue ceramic chip
That's a crystal that's part of an oscillator. If you have a logic probe you can check whether the chips are getting clocked.

>>3454409
>they only have 10uf 35 v
>can i use those?
The module is not likely to work properly with difference capacitance since they are likely part of filters and such.

You can try reflowing the solder joints of the connector first to see if it is just a poor connection.

[Snes sound module No.3454702]

went to another store and they had 25v 47uf so i guess those are good and put them on.

Still no sound at all, do i need to resolder the metal shield for it to work ? because im testing it desoldered.

Do you guys see anything suspicious on pic related? what could i test next to check that the chip is actually working?

[Snes sound module No.3454726]

>>3454702

FUCK i know what happened, one ofbthe pads broke, should be ok if i just put a bridge here right?

[Snes sound module No.3454780]

No dice, bridge went good and has continuity but still no sound, i just reflowed the connector with my heat gun and im letting it rest for a while.

How can i check that these caps are good? they are new but just to be sure.

Pic is my multimeter

[Anonymous No.3454784]

>>3454780
Try cleaning around the area of the crystal both sides. Some times impurities prevent crystals from oscillating.

[Snes sound module No.3454807]

>>3454784
did that twice with alcojol and a qtip, still mute.

Any way to check that blue oscillator is actually working? and the caps too... i guess i have to check them with the console on.

[Anonymous No.3454817]

>>3454807
With a logic probe (or an oscilloscope but a logic probe is much cheaper) you can check whether the chips connected to the probe are clocking. You can't test the crystal directly, though.

With an oscilloscope you could test the outputs and inputs of the amplifiers.

[Anonymous No.3454848]

Ehat kind of fucking douchebag just drops hosting without telling anybody, without giving anyone a chance to back it up and move it somewhere else, and without even letting anyone know what happened

FUCK the guy who owns gametechwiki

[Snes sound module No.3454853]

FUCK IT... im buying a new sound module on Ebay.

They are all the same right? no conpatibility problems as long as its a 2 chip revision.

[Anonymous No.3454867]

>>3454702
>>3454726
What the hell happened in this spot?

[Snes sound module No.3454878]

>>3454867
just a piece of the paper towel i used to clean the board.

[Anonymous No.3454883]

>>3454878
Mind giving us a larger pic of the backside? I wanna figure out what's wrong with your module, even if you are replacing it.

[Snes sound module No.3454893]

>>3454883
that huge disgiating blob at the top is where the pad came off so i cut a piece of thr cap leg to use it as a bridge.

[Anonymous No.3454898]

>>3454893
Well damn. The only route left is to check every fucking chip on the board, and that may be impossible if there's no pinout available anywhere. Sorry man.

[Snes sound module No.3454979]

>>3454898
last question... those things ive marked in red on the top right, are fuses right? just checked all and just the ones i marked have no continuity.

Could i just bridge them with a wire? whats the worst it could happen? fry my Snes?

[Anonymous No.3454980]

>>3454979
No they're surface mounted capacitors.

[Anonymous No.3455002]

>>3454979
They are ceramic capacitors. Do not bridge them, depending on their usage you could very well cause a short and fry the system.

[Anonymous No.3455003]

>>3454979
They might be burnt out. Like >>3454980
said, those are SMD(surface mounted) caps.

Two problems. IDing exactly what voltage and whatnot they are, and then mounting new ones without a pair of heated tweezers or other SMD component tools.

God I hate SMD.

[Anonymous No.3455024]

the gametechwiki wont load for me so I'm gonna ask here

How should I clean a snes cartridge that makes a purple screen when I turn on my snes?

Never had a problem with the game until today

[Anonymous No.3455027]

>>3455024
Iso alcohol and q-tips, scrub until they stop coming back with dirt on them.

If that fails, get some real electrical contact cleaner, put some on the contacts, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then clean it off. Make sure you get the solvent free stuff so it won't eat the PCB.

Someone should set the wiki back up, and call it the "Information you could have gotten through a simple google search wiki".

[Anonymous No.3455057]

>>3455027
the iso alcohol worked BUT anytime I slightly move the cartridge while its in the snes it breaks and becomes a mess of pixels. Not a big deal but if you know any idea on how to fix this I'd appreciate that as well. Thanks

[Anonymous No.3455204]

>>3434083
>>3434387
>>3434432
>>3434446
Sorry to be a bastard and restart this discussion, but I was just getting around to doing it today and need some help.

What wire should I get since I'm getting mixed responses? I went to Radioshack but they ended being absolutely no help.

Also, since this is my first job with traces and I've almost no experience with this or other electronics repair so could someone talk down to me and explicitly list out the steps for bridging traces to solder joints? I can't find anything on the internet for traces that break at the joint, only in the middle of a trace far away from anything else.

[Anonymous No.3455205]

>>3455204
All you're going to do is solder the legs from that chip to what ever they go to.

It's quite simple. You're re-creating the traces on the board only with jumper wires

[Anonymous No.3455213]

>>3455205
I went ahead and drew on the traces you need to jump with a wire.

If you have a multi meter, test to make sure they are severed before doing any work.

[Anonymous No.3455228]

>>3455204
You can either trace to a solder pad that is on the same circuit that you need to tap into, or you can use fine grit sandpaper to rub away the green coating over the PCB to expose the copper and solder to it. Be careful, though-- that green stuff is there to prevent corrosion, and if you sand it away you could make the PCB vulnerable to corrosion damage in the future.

[Anonymous No.3455392]

>>3454848
he might be dead

[Anonymous No.3455469]

>>3454848
>>3455392
What links should we have in the next OP body?

[Anonymous No.3455476]

>>3455205
>>3455213
>>3455228
You overestimate my electronics intelligence. I'm quite retarded. I'm going to need a step-by-step to not fuck this up. Like what wire do I need? How do I test traces with a Multimeter? What readings should I be getting if the trace is dead? Alive?

Would I put the wire directly over the trace all the way to the next joint and then cover everything in solder? Or do I leave the wire exposed except at the joints? If I went the other route, what grit sandpaper? How would grind the coating off without damaging the rest of the board?

As I said, I have no idea what I'm doing. But I'm willing to learn.

[Anonymous No.3455498]

>>3455469
archive.org link>>3453302

[Anonymous No.3455578]

>>3455476
Do you have a multi-meter? I don't mean a shitty $10 one. I mean a nice good, solid one.

You should test for continuity

http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html

If you have a nice one it will have a beeper installed and will beep when you put each probe to each trace. It does that because they're connected. If no beep goes off, then they're disconnected and need to be re-joined.

The pathways are right in front of you on the board. You need to test in between the top pins of the bottom chip and the top chip.

Wire isn't too important but get something small around 26 gauge wire.

You will take and cut a pice off and strip each end and attach them to the pins like I outlined in the picture I posted above.

[Anonymous No.3455582]

>>3455476
>>3455578
Also, scraping off is a last resort. try attaching wires to the traces I highlighted above.

Just think of the red lines as the wires you need to run (Doesn't have to follow the orgional trace but should be around the same length.)

[Anonymous No.3455590]

>>3455582
>>3455578
This is what you need to do. You need to test and see if the points are still connected. You need to also check on the other side of the chip as well. Take the probes and check down the line to make sure all beep, or don't

[Anonymous No.3455593]

>>3455590
Shit I just realized I highlighted the wrong place to test on the left. That one runs to the other side of the board by a "via".

Looks like it runs under the bottom chip. I'm not sure where it comes out at.

[Anonymous No.3455791]

>>3454702
>Still no sound at all
But the game runs?
If that's the case then the CPU and DSP (passes the memory to the CPU) is running correctly, then problem seems to come from the DAC and preamplifier.

>>3454898
>and that may be impossible if there's no pinout available anywhere
http://problemkaputt.de/fullsnes.htm#snespinouts
The DAC, 32kbyte SRAM and preamplifier (dual opamp) are standard parts.

[Anonymous No.3456165]

>>3454386

"Rubbing alcohol" is the same thing as Isopropyl alcohol, as far as I know.

Isopropyl alcohol typically comes in a variety of strengths, from 70% to about 91% or so.

[Anonymous No.3456173]

>>3454173
>Anyone has done this before?
Probably.

>whats the chance for the problem being the capacitors and not the actual sound chip?
Pretty high chance of the caps being the culprit. Not a lot can go wrong with ICs unless you subject them to extreme temps or damage their legs.

Caps, on the other hand, go dry/get old and stop functioning properly all the time. That's part of the reason there's recap kits for a ton of old devices. The other reason is quality control and manufacturing quality has increased over time and new caps can sometimes have a positive impact on signal quality.

[Anonymous No.3456201]

>>3444985

I'm the psone anon.

Chipped an SCPH-7501 a few days ago , and it went great.

Modchip is the MM3, same process as before (K150 programmer, PIC12F509). I used the MM3USA hex from Eurasia, md5sum 62b4c88666e63500e43474af2ecca724 . Same process of splaying out the legs in-plane, then cutting off about 80% of the legs and just leaving a stub.

On the 75xx series you have to remove that EMI/anti-mod shielding first. Some people desolder it but I just attacked the tabs with wire cutters.

The physical assembly went much better than the PSone, no soldering straight to those fucking resistors or caps on this one, just 7 test points. Same process - figure out where the chip will sit, then test fit everything like the heat shield etc. Much roomier than the psone was, no problems finding a fit.

Cut and stripped wires, leaving a couple cm of slack, then soldered the wires to the board. Finally, tape the chip in place and solder the wires to it. I used the same wire as before, some stuff left over from my SNES mini kits, I think it's 30 awg kynar. 26 awg "hook up wire" would probably work for the 75xx (all test points), but the 30 awg stuff is nicer to work with.

[Anonymous No.3456221]

>>3444985
>>3456201

So, if you're reading this, my advice is to just buy an SCPH-75xx and chip that instead. Soldering to the test points was easy. I was in and out within 10 minutes after getting the wires measured, cut, and stripped. You can go back and chip your pain in the ass 7000 after you've cut your teeth with an easy mod.

As far as performance goes, this thing is flawless. Games load up on first boot about 99% of the time, and I've had no issues with streaming audio in games, even the ones that my psone had issues with (mat hoffman bmx, BoF IV). Didn't have to make any laser adjustments. The stealth/anti-mod/region-free stuff seems to be working, I've tried a bunch of jap and protected games with no issue.

The only downside is that the 480i sync is noticeably worse for all my fat revisions as compared to my psone. 240p sync is fine. Not really an issue for PS1 games anyways.

[Anonymous No.3456356]

Are snes carts supposed to be hard to open?
I removed the screws from mine but it refuse to open, every video I saw on youtube everyone opens than so easily after taking the screws out.

[Anonymous No.3456364]

>>3456356
Either it's counterfeit or got exposed to strong heat causing the plastic to melt a little bit.

[Anonymous No.3456430]

>>3456364
Oh bummer, my Final Fight 3 that
I had for over 15 years and though was real it is actually fake.

[Anonymous No.3456878]

So I put a SNES9x emulator on my wii. However, when I power up my wii it often is stuck at the health and safety screen, and the flashing "press A to start" text is absent. Unfortunately I have to start and reset a couple times, and randomly it works. anyone know how I can resolve
this issue?

[Anonymous No.3456981]

Please help me with this Nomad. It powers on fine with the battery pack but gets no power at all from the ac jack.

It did at first but you had to wiggle the cable. Usually soldering the joints below fixes this but this time, it doesn't the power the system at all now from the ac jack.

Not sure how to fix this, here are 5 images.

[Anonymous No.3456984]

2/5

[Anonymous No.3456987]

2/3 Oh yeah, I tired soldering on the top from the back and right side too.

[Anonymous No.3456991]

4/5

[Anonymous No.3456994]

5/5

So yeah, powers on with battery pack but doesn't at all with the ac jack plugged in.

[Anonymous No.3457008]

>>3456984
Replace that burned capacitor.

>>3456987
>>3456991
>>3456994
These solder joints look pretty bad.
What kind of solder are you using?
Remove the solder with a sucker or solder wick and solder them again. Use flux paste.

[Anonymous No.3457339]

>>3455578
>you need an expensive multimeter to test for continuity
Topkek. Even cheap ones work fine. And go beep.

[Anonymous No.3457395]

>>3457339
If he plans on doing more then just this little job it'd be wise to invest into a more expensive one.

And the cheap ones I was talking about are the free ones you get from a $10 purchase at harbor freight

[Anonymous No.3457635]

>>3456221

samefagging it up

Chipped my other SCPH-7501 today. Whole process took under an hour, and that's with absent-mindedly looking for tools, bong rips etc.

If I was modding like 20 in a day or something I could probably get the takt time down to about 15 minutes each not counting testing.

I used some more 30 awg kynar for this, seems to work well. I picked up some tiny spools on ebay (5 ft) because my local electronics stores have shitty selection and mostly only carry 26 gauge and up. I'll need to make a bulk order off digikey or something some day soon.

Installation's nothing really anything to write home about, same flashing and installation practice I talked about here >>3456201 .

This one didn't read burned discs quite as well as my other one at first. Games would load just fine but I was getting occasional stutter in THPS2 audio. I turned the laser pot about 20 degrees clockwise and THPS2 audio streams fine now. I haven't tested my usual problem games which are Mat Hoffman and BoF4 yet.

Overall this was a pretty good experience. I bet I could get full dissassembly -> installation -> reassembly down to about 15 minutes if I did this all day every day, at least for the 7500 series.

[Anonymous No.3457754]

>>3454386
You can use it, but you have to leave whatever you're using it on out to dry for longer.

[Anonymous No.3459353]

>>3457395
Not really. You only need an expensive one if the company's paying or you want to camwhore it to some geeks. I've used all kinds and the last 25 years my go to one has been a cheep pocket thing that does the basics and just keeps going and going.
Your just spewing the old "most expensive is best" BS . That's really unhelpful in a thread where many people are on very limited budgets.

[Anonymous No.3459753]

>>3459353
I wasn't saying the "Most expensive" tool is the best. A $100 multi-meter would do him good. Hell a $50 would be a good place to start out.

I find it doesn't help to learn on cheap, Chinese tools. You fight the tool more then the problem you're trying to fix.

I've learned this the hardware. I've ordered cheap Chines knock off soldering equipment, multi-meters and all that. You end up trouble shooting and trying to get the tool to work like it should half of the time.

Good tools make all the difference. Period.

[Anonymous No.3459756]

>>3459753
hard way* not hardware

[Anonymous No.3459938]

I've decided I prefer arcade sticks for basically every single type of game.

I'm going to try and salvage some old controllers (hopefully an ebay lot) and harvest the PCB's to try and make some sticks for NES, SNES, N64 and PS1/PS2 using sanwa parts.

It should be straight forward for nes/snes, but I'm mostly concerned about the N64 analog stick. Is it the same as the others where you can just solder up a jumper to one of the directions?

[Anonymous No.3459945]

>>3459753
You've learned this in your one summer of parroting dicks? You've learned nothing by doing nothing. Good tools can be found cheap. You're just a young dumb meme poster

[Anonymous No.3459959]

>>3459945
He's right for the most part. Cheap chink shit on ebay or amazon isn't worth your time and money.

[Anonymous No.3460007]

>>3459945
No, I've been doing this for a while now. Not "25 years" mind you but, you'd think you'd have learned in all that time that good tools are an asset.

But whatever. Buy your cheap shit. Don't be surprised when it breaks and you have to go and order another one or worse happens.

[Anonymous No.3460843]

I have a Genesis controller 1650 (3 button) that seems to want to give me a diagonal input for every up or down press. Can this likely be fixed by cleaning or is it fucked?

[Anonymous No.3460889]

>>3457635
>>3456221
>You can go back and chip your pain in the ass 7000 after you've cut your teeth with an easy mod.

Can you elaborate on what is harder about my model? I made that post a week ago, and my mod chip still isn't here, so I'd have time to get another playstation- but maybe importing from japan would take a few more weeks. Thing is, I only paid $10 for this one and ebay prices suck.

Are there any other "easy" models, or is 7500 your go-to?

[Anonymous No.3461053]

>>3460889
>Are there any other "easy" models, or is 7500 your go-to?
IIRC the 5501 is the easiest since you can solder to points on the back of the board.

[Anonymous No.3461812]

>>3460843
It doesn't hurt to give it a good cleaning. It might be the chip on board that is giving you problems though or one of those EMI filters.

Do other controllers exhibit the same problem in the same port?

[Anonymous No.3461829]

Reminder to back up your save files, never know what might happen.

I need to back mine up way more often

[Anonymous No.3461848]

>>3461812
Yeah, I have one other that is much better with the same console. I cleaned the problem controller, scrubbed the rubber bumpers and board contacts with alcohol+toothbrush, and washed all the buttons and shell with soap and water, let dry for 5 hours. The problem persists, but seems to have lessened. Now if I press up or down with a slight push instead of all the way down, up and down work alright, while I can use normal force on left/right. I'm not a gorilla.

I should have taken a picture, but the rubber bumper top attached to the "down" contact appeared to be worn down somewhat, with the cross pattern of the d-pad melted or pressed into it ever so slightly. I rotated that 180 degrees (only other way it will fit to the shell) and the d-pad plastic 90 degrees, but that didn't seem to change much.

[Anonymous No.3461935]

Anyone got a good way of taking the shell of an N64 plug and not damaging it?

[Anonymous No.3462501]

I know that you guys don't consider the PS2 to be retro, but this is probably going to be the most helpful place for my problem

My PS2 refuses to read certain discs. Almost all of my DVD games will be read, but 2 games, God of War and P3FES, won't be read. The laser just clicks and puts me back on the browser screen. same thing happens with all of my CD games. I've gotten glasses cleaner and gently cleaned the laser twice, and cleaned the rails for the laser. when the laser tries to read the discs, it looks like it's trying to push itself further up the rails than it can go, resulting in the clicking. any ideas?

[Anonymous No.3462584]

>>3462501
Fixed it by opening the console and tightening screws.

I don't know why it worked, but it did so w/e

[Anonymous No.3462768]

>>3461935
You mean the controller plug? I dunno, it seems pretty solidly connected to the board.

If you do find a way though, post! I have an n64 with a chipped port, can't be assed to rgb mod and make it look nice with such a big flaw front and center.

[Anonymous No.3463168]

>>3459959
ebay and amazon didn't exist when I bought my cheap chink shit sport.

>>3460007
Won't be buying anything for a while kiddo. I've got a few multimeters and the one I use most is still going strong.

>or worse happens
Toppest of keks kid

[Anonymous No.3464221]

Is any old spray paint sufficient for painting controller shells? I'm only worried about the texture feeling rough in the end, instead of glossy & smooth.

Pic related- "krylon fusion for plastic"

[Anonymous No.3464256]

>>3462768
I mean the controller plug. The colored ones at the end of the N64 controller.

[Anonymous No.3464257]

>>3463168
Sorry grandpa. Shit's changed.

[Anonymous No.3464450]

is it ok to update firmware on a chink sd2snes?

mine likes to save .srm files in the rom's directory, and I think this might fix that. current version is from 2 weeks ago, mine came with the version before that. for what it's worth, it works perfectly with every supported game

[Anonymous No.3465124]

>>3446687
Bumping this question again

I really don't want to spend $40 on a pair of OEM RCA cables.

[Anonymous No.3465324]

>>3465124
There's no such thing. Why do you think we all use the headphone port????

>>3464450
Perfectly safe.

[Anonymous No.3465342]

So for how long has the gametechwiki site been down?

[Anonymous No.3465558]

>>3465342
It hasn't been updated in like 3 years. I just noticed it being down a couple weeks ago. It's gone, boys and girls. Should have taken it more seriously.

[Anonymous No.3465563]

>>3465342
>>3465558
Has no one here made backups?

[Anonymous No.3465565]

>>3465563
The text can be saved from Google's cache, but the images are lost forever. If someone has a backup they've stayed silent about it thus far.

[Anonymous No.3465591]

>>3465558
>It hasn't been updated in like 3 years
What?

Also the guys at emugen seem to copying over the emulation part of gametechwiki

https://emulation.miraheze.org/wiki/Main_Page

[Anonymous No.3465830]

>>3465591
The last google cache grab I was able to find, which was taken less than a month ago, showed the front page pointing a pretty old thread, and the last news update was made in like 2014. I was exaggerating, but only a little.

[Anonymous No.3465858]

>>3465830
The frontpage wasn't updated because there was no need to, the articles were

[Anonymous No.3466086]

>>3465858
>Because there was no need to

Subjective. Usually if you're going to link to specific threads it's a good idea to keep the links updated.

[Anonymous No.3466114]

>>3466086
Nigga I'm just saying it was updated and nobody cared about updating the thread link
It's a wiki you know

[Anonymous No.3466142]

>>3466114
>It's a wiki you know
I know. It would have been piss easy for anyone to update the link.

[Anonymous No.3466150]

>>3466142
Like you
Are you not seeing the irony here Anon, come on.

[Anonymous No.3466162]

>>3466150
>Are you not seeing the irony here, Anon. Come on

No, considering it would be impossible for me to update the cached front page.

[Anonymous No.3466254]

The original SVHC board SNESes seem to be dying in droves lately, mostly due to CPU failure.

[Anonymous No.3466332]

Is there any specific "good" model of SFC to get, or are they all good and have rgb?

Also, is the controller cord always just 3 feet long?

[Anonymous No.3466348]

>>3466332
Apparently late 1CHIP boards are the most desirable as far as good video quality. I would avoid if possible the SHVC because they seem to have a high rate of CPU failures. You can identify these because the bottom of the case will look something like this.

Later SNESes will have the FCC information molded into the plastic and a paper serial number sticker.

[Anonymous No.3466379]

In general, you want to avoid early revisions of stuff because they're often prone to bugs or hardware faults that were later fixed. For example, early PS1s are not very reliable compared to later ones. Or how the early Commodore 64s from 1982-83 had a high failure rate but the short board C64C is quite bulletproof.

[Anonymous No.3466401]

>>3466348
>1CHIP boards are the most desirable as far as good video quality

Isn't that just better encoding for component video though? Or am I confusing 1-chip with snes mini?

[Anonymous No.3466417]

>>3466401
SNES Mini has the 1CHIP board in it. The last of the original SNESes have it as well.

[Anonymous No.3466423]

I was quite alarmed when I read about SNES CPUs dying, but I checked mine and it has the molded FCC label so it's not an SHVC model.

That was a relief.

[Anonymous No.3466440]

>>3465324
Well fuck

I don't know why I ordered my custom head phones mixing cable then.

[Anonymous No.3466445]

>>3466379
Exception--the Model 1 Genesis is much more durable than the Model 2. Actually even the Model 3 is better than the 2 if you don't care about lack of CD/32x support.

[Anonymous No.3466463]

>>3466379
Another exception - Early Dreamcasts can play burned games and homebrew without a modchip.

[Anonymous No.3467239]

Anyone have a guide on how to restore the game genie to a model 3 Sega?

[Anonymous No.3467314]

>>3466423
Where did you read this?

[Anonymous No.3468280]

>>3467314
Fucking four posts prior to that one, dumb ass. I swear to god, nobody here knows how to read further than 1 post back.

[Anonymous No.3468321]

>>3466348
>>3466423

The ones with the molded FCC sticker can still have CPU-A (which is one of the "bad" ones, along with the S-CPU found in some SHVC consoles). It wasn't until the later GPM-02 revision that they switched to CPU-B (which is unlikely to fail). I'm pretty sure all GPM-01 boards have CPU-A though. Even some earlier GPM-02 boards have it. So serials numbers of UN20xxx through UN24xxx could still have CPU-A even though they have the molded FCC thing on the bottom. Pretty much any console with the raised molded lettering on the eject lever though will have CPU-B unless it's a 1-chip or if the housing was swapped.

[Anonymous No.3468379]

Anyone have an everdrive-MD? I can't get game genie codes to work. Just testing it out with "unlimited continues" in Bloodlines- the flash gets patched, the game boots, and immediately crashes.

http://www.gamegenie.com/cheats/gamegenie/genesis/castlevania_blood.html
>17 AXJA-AA5N Infinite continues

from the everdrive manual:
>Supported codes can only to the ROM area, RAM codes will not work.

If this is a RAM code (which it seems likely), what in the world is a ROM code? Any advice on how to get this working?

[Anonymous No.3468458]

>>3465591
that's because emugen had their shit together and actually had backups

why didn't anyone here make backups of the repair/mod section of the wiki?

embarrassing.

[Anonymous No.3468794]

>>3468458
Why don't you?

[Anonymous No.3468797]

RIP in Peace gametechwiki.com

[Anonymous No.3468804]

>>3468797
>RIP in Peace gametechwiki.com
What happened?

[Anonymous No.3468814]

>>3465565
>but the images are lost forever.

fug

[Anonymous No.3468843]

>>3468804
Read the thread, wiki is kill

[Anonymous No.3468884]

>>3468321
Mine has a serial number of UN268119995 which means it's likely a CPU-B and probably a GPM-02 board.

[Anonymous No.3468889]

The best way to test for a blown SNES CPU is running Final Fantasy III because that game will go all to pieces if your CPU is kill.

[Anonymous No.3468903]

Also The Lion King has a debug mode that will reveal your CPU revision if you press B A R R Y on the title screen

[Anonymous No.3468961]

>>3468889
>>3468903
Those sound handy. Is there anything like 240p test suite for information like that?

[Anonymous No.3468989]

why do I get the feeling this is some kind of game grumps meme

[Anonymous No.3469009]

>>3468884
BTW, when did they switch to the yellowing-proof plastic? Because mine has a severely yellowed case, but apparently this was corrected at some point.

[Anonymous No.3469041]

>>3469009
it was never corrected, rather, some consoles were treated with more care than others, and many resold consoles were professionally restored

[Anonymous No.3469073]

I know this isn't technically kosher, but:

I've been seeing DS Lites in these clear plastic shells and I think it looks pretty cool. I have a GB Pocket with the same treatment, though put out by Nintendo themselves.
I'm concerned, however, that the device didn't see the treatment for a reason and if I get one of these it'll die due to sun damage or something, not to mention the thing has necessarily been dehoused and messed with to get it in there to begin with.

What do you guys think? Is it safe?

[Anonymous No.3469131]

Someone needs to decap a dead SNES CPU so we can get down to the mystery of what's killing them.

[Anonymous No.3469141]

>>3469073
I think it's fine and, 2bh, dank as fuck. my handhelds probably see the sun 2 minutes of direct sunlight of each year. where did you see this posted? I want one now.

[Anonymous No.3469181]

>>3469131
Hnn. Someone out there. Killing Super Nintendoes. Suspicious.

[Anonymous No.3469264]

>>3469131
Maybe poor passivation. I guess only Ricoh would know for sure what went wrong with those chips.

[Anonymous No.3469310]

I'm building consolized MVS system and can't find flush panel-mounted DB15 ports (both for system and to add to my arcade sticks).
Found these Neutron ports, they have different configuration from default Neo Geo controller ports, but for these controllers I can build an adapter cable.
Are there any other panel-mounted solutions, or Neutrik seems fine?

[Anonymous No.3469369]

>>3466348
>>3468321
Note that these are all S-CPUs and CPU-As.

[Anonymous No.3469371]

>>3466348
1-Chip models eliminate that vertical bar which is a nuisance on most SNESes.

[Anonymous No.3469404]

>>3469371
you can take measures to reduce the line on non 1chip models.

[Anonymous No.3469409]

>>3469371
It depends on the TV and the SNES model. Mine I never really noticed the vertical bar except when I had it connected to an old shit portable set from the 70s.

[Anonymous No.3469426]

Gametechwiki is down?

I would like to play NTSC PS1 games in 60hz. What are the possibilities considering I have a PAL PS1 and a PAL PS2 (last models in both cases).

No PS2 HDD preferably; original loading times need to stay intact.

Thanks

[Anonymous No.3469428]

>>3469426
>original loading times need to stay intact.
for what reason?

And the only way I know of is either a mod chip or some swap magic

[Anonymous No.3469430]

>>3469428
>for what reason?
Speedrun. I'm afraid faster loading times would be considered cheating.

Would swap magic let me play in 60hz on a PAL console?

[Anonymous No.3469431]

>>3469430
It might. I'm not sure.

If you're set on having NTSC PS1 games running at 60hz, just import a Japanese/American PS1

[Anonymous No.3469475]

>>3469431
Right, so apparently swap magic can play NTSC games in 60hz on a PAL PS2 but only for PS2 games, not PS1 ones.

My PS2 is a model SCPH-70004, what's the best method between Breaker Pro, Gameshark Lite, Gameshark Bonus disk, MC exploit, or a modchip?

[Anonymous No.3469487]

>>3469475
All those are going to cost more then a mod chip I would think.

Just have to be good at soldering

[Anonymous No.3469505]

>>3469426
mod your ps1, ps1 does the whole region thing by software, so when you boot up NTSC game on modded console it will run at 60hz. But you'll need rgb-scart cable if you want colored picture(otherwise its back&white),

[Anonymous No.3469518]

>>3446094
Order an equal button and resolder it, when those things break they're impossible to fix from what I hear.

[Anonymous No.3469523]

>>3453420
Dude the contacts are really bad you need to clean that shit up, oxidized, maybe your fuse is fine.

[Anonymous No.3469527]

>>3466162
Let's form a group to backup that SOAB I just found out this thing existed a few weeks ago and now it's down?!

We better get working.

[Anonymous No.3469530]

>>3445909
https://emulation.miraheze.org/wiki/

It's working for me, but someone needs to backup gametech wiki.

[Anonymous No.3469536]

BTW, I did some digging and it turns out that a lot of chip failures in the SNES are caused by the lack of power filtering. Even a small ripple or power surge can damage stuff.

Solution: Install a 220uF 16V capacitor on the ground and output of the 7805 voltage regulator. Most SNESes have space for a second large capacitor in the back near the power/AV connectors. Stick a 1000uF 16V capacitor back there.

[Anonymous No.3469553]

>>3469536
Holy shit, that's nice to know, now I know why my SNES was glitching the shit out.

Maybe it needs some proper cleaning.

[Anonymous No.3469559]

>>3469553
Just hope nothing in there got fried.

[Anonymous No.3469576]

>>3469409
It could be electrical interference as well. One thing you notice about N64 cartridges is that they're heavier than NES/SNES ones as they have a metal RF shield in them.

[Anonymous No.3469579]

>>3469559
I don't really care honestly, my friend has it stored (I'm moving soon.) and I'm just going to ask for it and service it myself.

[Anonymous No.3469595]

>>3469141
There's a couple people trying to sell them for too much on ebay but if you search clear ds lite on amazon you'll find the producer. They're called valuesellers.

I went ahead and bought one (fiddy dorra) but I'm concerned it's shipping from asia somewhere hopefully not the land of shitty plastics because the shipping estimate is like a month.

Still, they sell a lot of replacement parts and have high seller reviews.

[Anonymous No.3469746]

>>3469595
nice. post pics when it arrives, I'm sure most people don't mind given the nature of the thread

[Anonymous No.3469750]

>>3469579
No I mean if something gets fried, pray it's just the RAM and not the CPU or GPU.

[Anonymous No.3469752]

>>3430196

What's a good way to clean the N64 where the expansion pak fits in, without paying for a can of air duster?

[Anonymous No.3469757]

>>3469487
I have an SCPH-9002, does that make any difference as far as modchips are concerned?

Is there several different chips and if so which is the most recommended?

Thanks

[Anonymous No.3469759]

>>3469752
open it up and use alcohol with a toothbrush. you can remove the cartridge slot and clean the board contacts while you're at it this way. n64 is easy to open but keep track of each screw location

[Anonymous No.3469838]

>>3469746
Will do. If it helps, I'll mostly be playing old rpg ports/remakes on it.

[Anonymous No.3470225]

>>3469838
anyone know wats wrong with ps1 console I got

[Anonymous No.3470465]

Just modded a PAL Megadrive II with a single EU/US/JP switch, but it turns out I need that extra step/mod so video doesn't show in that weird B/W. Do I need to change everything over to that other 2 switch (separate Hz and language) to have that mod working or can it be adapted to my current single-switch?

I've seen a few cheap "external" NTSC<>PAL adapter boxes, will those work in this case?

Strangely enough, I recently modded my PAL Master System II with a 50-60 switch and it didn't need anything extra, what's the difference?

[Anonymous No.3470548]

>>3470465
You'll need rgb-scart cable, or mod further, see:
http://canthack.org/2014/04/a-new-mod-for-mega-drive-60hz-colour-correction/

[Anonymous No.3470589]

>>3470548
Thank you anon.
I managed to find a few other mods to solve this issue as well, but I couldn't find a single one that would work with my single-switch setup, or adapt the ones I found to it since I'm quite dumb when it comes to this stuff.

Stupid question, can I use a Megadrive II RGB-SCART cable, then a SCART to RCA adapter and get color?
What about those NTSC-PAL converters? after reading a few sites I suspect those won't work as the issue seems to happen before, so to speak, but not 100% sure.

[Anonymous No.3470594]

>>3469430
>Speedrun. I'm afraid faster loading times would be considered cheating.

You shouldn't even fucking worry about that shit until you get a remotely competitive time.

No one's going to shit on the new kid on the block that's 20-30 minutes behind the WR for using a PS2.

Also most PS1 games -are- played on a PS2, exclusively because it's faster.

[Anonymous No.3470604]

>>3469595
>>3469141
>>3469073

Rehousing a DS is kind of an annoying thing but I wouldn't call it hard. The hardest bits are getting the ribbon cable in the hinge without breaking it, once that's done it's just basic shit.

>50 dollars for a DS

Find yourself a trashed DS-lite, do the incredibly basic task of probably just plugging in the ribbon cable or reflowing some solder, put it in one of these:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Full-Housing-Cover-Case-Replacement-Shell-For-Nintendo-DS-Lite-DSL-NDSL-/231377939307?var=530640109993&hash=item35df332b6b:g:NKsAAOSwyTZUVoZC

Maybe replace a hinge and you seriously can turn a lot of profit, assuming you're not retarded and can source some cheap busted DS-lites.

I made enough to pay for a PS4 on launch day just doing that stuff. Kids think it's the SUPER RARE Zelda or Mario case in brand new condition but it's just some shitty gaudy pink DS that some retard kid poured juice on.

[Anonymous No.3470847]

>>3470604
Does the shell include buttons/dpad or screen lenses?

Seems to me like DSes under say $20 have screens in pretty shit shape cosmetically, and replacing the lenses would add more cost on top of the shell. It isn't a game boy so maybe the screens don't work the way I'm thinking, but at least the top screen has a lens.

[Anonymous No.3470856]

>>3470847
It includes the case, d-pad and buttons but it doesn't come with a new screen.

Obviously you need to be able to assert what the problems are with the DS before you go for it, but if the only thing wrong is a scuffed shell and a broken hinge, you can replace it for like 16 bucks and then turn it around for a good chunk of change.

[Anonymous No.3470923]

>>3469426
>>3469428
>>3469430
>>3469431
I'm pretty sure you can use a PAL Game Shark to accomplish this.

[Anonymous No.3470930]

>>3470856
alright, since you seem to know quite a bit, how more/less difficult would it be to end up with something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nintendo-Game-Boy-Advance-GBA-SP-System-AGS-101-Brighter-MINT-NEW-Pick-A-Color-/201090920636?hash=item2ed1f3f0bc:g:GpsAAOSwuMFUZ55a

it seems like everyone with an ebay account is aware of the ags-101 being in higher demand and jacks the price way up, even the non-resellers just selling their old belongings. but I think I could come up with a nice looking SP for around 1/4 that price. All the replacement parts except the new battery come in a set for $13.

[Anonymous No.3470964]

>>3456173
>Not a lot can go wrong with ICs unless you subject them to extreme temps or damage their legs

Out of spec voltage.

[Anonymous No.3470978]

>>3470930

He obviously has the knowledge to fix more than just minor things like ribbon cables if he's sold 1500+ AGS-101's.

The problem is almost always going to be sourcing product. Replacement shells and hinges you can get cheap as fuck especially if you buy bulk. You just need to get your hands on AGS-101's.

Honestly, wouldn't surprise me if a lot of those aren't even AGS-101's. It could just say AGS-101 on the replacement shell. It's possible there's a third party backlighting mod you can do as well but I honestly don't really know much about GBA's since DS' were more popular at the time.

AGS-101's are only good for playing classic Gameboy games. You're better off with a DS for GBA since it's more comfortable to hold, with a better button layout and gives you access to the DS library as well.

He probably runs a repair shop and buys busted stuff for peanuts. Snatches up every single lot of broken GBA's and fixes them. To do that you need capital, and the ability to repair the stuff if it's more than something simple.

If you're talking about just making -ONE- like that, you're probably better off just buying one refurbed since he's getting parts and shells wholesale.

[Anonymous No.3470994]

>>3456173
don't ICs eventually fail from electromigration?

[Anonymous No.3471114]

>>3470994
If the IC is operating within its rated temperature range, then no, electromigration doesn't happen.

[Anonymous No.3471379]

>>3470594
Yes, PS2, but not PS2 with an external HDD. That changes the loading times considerably.

Also I am confident I can destroy the current record. It's not a very famous game and I have found new tricks which can save time. I just need to be able to record the NTSC version on real hardware.

>>3470923
Thanks, I'll look it up.

[Anonymous No.3471871]

Is Everdrive-GB really the only/best option for a GB/C flash cart? It seems pricy for what it is considering the cost of an R4, and all the US sellers seem to be out of stock (shipping from krikzz takes a long time for me)

[Anonymous No.3472176]

Can you guys recommend a PS1 modchip?

[Anonymous No.3472186]

>>3472176
mm3

[Anonymous No.3472704]

All of my games on game gear show up glitched, or crash. Is it the capacitors or cartridge slot? Answers are appreciated.

[Anonymous No.3472753]

>>3470225
need help

[Anonymous No.3472927]

>>3472176

ctrl-f "MM3" . I posted a bunch about chipping 3 consoles about a week ago

[Anonymous No.3472929]

>>3470225

does it shake back and forth or is it a static screen

[Anonymous No.3472954]

really stupid question. I just learned that some flash carts for mega drive support a RAM cart mode to play mega CD games from the cartridge slot. Does this mean you can play mega CD games without mega CD hardware? Is the add-on doing any extra processing, like the 32x does, or does it just stream data to the console? That would be a pretty big deal to not need one, and even if it doesn't work, you might be able to just grab a junked mega CD with a broken laser.

Also, does this mean you can play the few CD 32x games, with or without the CD?

This is what the krikzz manual says, it doesn't answer my question directly:
>Q) Can I use Mega EverDrive as RAM cart for Mega-CD?
>A) Yes. Just run some CD bios file from SD
>Q) Can I play 32x games without 32x add-on?
>A) No.

[Anonymous No.3472996]

So I got this Legend of Zelda cart a while back, but I wasn't ever able to get it to work. I cleaned the connectors with Windex and Q-tips but I can't get anything to show up other than a purple / pink screen. I'm no expert so I was hoping you guys could tell me if you see something wrong with the cart.

[Anonymous No.3472997]

>>3472996
flipside

[Anonymous No.3473073]

>>3472996
That capacitor looks swollen to me. Does it look that way to anyone else?

[Anonymous No.3473083]

>>3473073
Yeah that was my first thought but it might just have a funky shape. Maybe another pic facing the top of the cap?

[Anonymous No.3473086]

>>3472996
>>3473073
>>3473083
The top of the cap would help maybe tell if it's bad if its bulging.

Also if you look on the chip side of the board, the pins on the left look like they need to be polished with an eraser or some #0000 steel wool.

[Anonymous No.3473089]

>>3472954
No

The RAM cart mode is just for backing up saved data. You still need the add ons.

[Anonymous No.3473108]

>>3473083

[Anonymous No.3473118]

>>3473108
Wouldn't hurt to replace it.

Clean those pins like I said here though

>>3473086

[Anonymous No.3473131]

>>3473108
Oh my god this picture is a pure work of art. More? Clean those pins like >>3473118 said and take more pictures at this angle

[Anonymous No.3473137]

>>3472929
dosent shake back and forth

[Anonymous No.3473152]

>>3473118
alright thanks man, will do.

>>3473131
am I missing something here? haha

[Anonymous No.3473158]

>>3473152
The chips, the reflection off the board, the lighting. It's amazing

[Anonymous No.3473163]

Is the digital ps1 controller superior to the Dualshock in build quality or the D-pad quality? I need a controller to play platformers and JRPGs and I'm wondering if the digital has some kind of advantage over the Dualshock or if they are the same thing. Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask.

[Anonymous No.3473405]

>>3473163

I have a preference for the hand-feel of the first ps1 controller (scph-1080). I use it for every game that doesn't really take or need analog input, which is most of them.

I can't tell a difference in build or d-pad quality.

[Anonymous No.3474747]

>>3472996
Call me crazy, but it looks like the solder connections on the resistors at the top right are damaged. The one in the middle and the one on the far right specifically look like they are popping off on one side. Maybe a closer picture of that area?

>>3473405
Agreed. The sticks just kinda get in the way for me. Never cared for analog when I could use d-pads anyways.

[Anonymous No.3475375]

My Model 1 Genesis has an issue with the second controller port--even when the controller is unplugged the system thinks player 2 is pressing up. Tried putting some tape on the solder under the port in case the metal from the RF shield was bridging a connection but no luck.

[Anonymous No.3475403]

>>3475375
Maybe try reflowing the solder on the connector. All that tugging over the years might have compromised on of the solder joints.

[Anonymous No.3475564]

>>3475403
So I should put my motherboard in the oven?

[Anonymous No.3475567]

>>3475564
HA

No

[Anonymous No.3475569]

>>3475567
Then what?

[Anonymous No.3475571]

>>3475569
The guy meant re-flow the pin on the controller port

You're going to fill your house with melted plastic gas if you do that.

[Anonymous No.3475576]

>>3475571
How is that different from re-soldering the controller port?

[Anonymous No.3475585]

>>3475576
Older game systems aren't like your xbox 360.

If you need to ask this, you really shouldn't be trying to fix electronics. No offense.

Just hand it off to some one who has a soldering iron and knows how to handle one.

[Anonymous No.3475598]

>>3475585
Well the worst thing that happens is I lose the controller port; I'd like to try.

[Anonymous No.3475607]

>>3475598
No, you kill the entire console because you don't know what you're doing.

get a soldering iron, look up the pin out for a Sega Genesis controller port, and put a bit more solder onto the pin connected to the board. Look and see if the solder is cracked.

[Anonymous No.3475618]

>>3475569
>Then what?
Take a soldering iron and some flux, apply flux to solder joints of the controller ports, heat solder joints until they flow.

[Anonymous No.3475626]

>>3475564
No. Not at all. You can reflow with a soldering iron. Just go over the potentially affected solder joints and re-melt the solder with the iron.

[Anonymous No.3475698]

>>3475607
>>3475618
>>3475626
Can't find where I put my flux. Will report back tomorrow. Thanks for the patience.

[Anonymous No.3475742]

>>3475698
OH bullshit. You didn't even know what the fuck flux was 10 minutes ago.

Fuck children, I swear

[Anonymous No.3475773]

>>3430196
hasnt the wiki been down for weeks? whats the deal

[Anonymous No.3475867]

RIP CRTS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzIPGpKo3Ag&feature=youtu.be
the only reason to own a Crt now has vanished

[Anonymous No.3476097]

>>3475867
Wow. Now only to get all that exposed circuitry into a box

[Anonymous No.3476609]

>>3475375
http://www.gamespot.com/forums/games-discussion-1000000/sega-genesis-problem-29308139/

This guy makes it sound like the solder is bent or touching other pieces of solder.

[Anonymous No.3476624]

>>3476609
Tin whiskers are another possibility.

[Anonymous No.3476658]

>>3476609
>>3476624
I tried reflowing all of the points, just to be sure. No metal is touching any metal, and I've lifted the motherboard out of the case so it isn't the RF shield. Could it be anything else?

[Anonymous No.3476734]

>>3475773
Oh my fucking god read the thread.

[Anonymous No.3476827]

>>3476658
Do you have a multimeter? Check whether the second controller port has one pin grounded or something like that. Compare to the working port.

[Anonymous No.3477257]

>>3476827
I don't but even if I did, what would that fix? It sounds like at that point I would be looking at replacing the IC6 chip, and I'm better off getting a new Genesis at that point.

[Anonymous No.3477376]

>>3466379
I've heard that early manufactured PS1's had superior sound output quality, to the point where audiophiles would just use them as a cheap CD player.

[Anonymous No.3477720]

http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/User_blog:ITEM-3/Game_Tech_Wiki

:(

[Anonymous No.3477794]

>romhack you really want to play
>you have to apply it to a rom with a different hash than what your goodset/no-intro has
>download 5 copies from all the shitty sources you used when you were 12
>they all have the wrong hash
>find a link for a pre-patched version .. for rapidshare

do you guys know that feel when

[Anonymous No.3477806]

>>3477794
snes hack? Chances are you'll need rom with header.

Sometimes patching to goodset/no-intro rom works anyway regardless of the hash.

[Anonymous No.3477816]

>>3477806
no, it's genesis/MD
http://www.romhacking.net/hacks/797/

I'll give it a shot, but I'm trying to play on flash cart, so if my experience tells me anything that further reduces the chances of it working

[Anonymous No.3477831]

>>3477806
aaand it works. cheers

[Anonymous No.3477967]

>>3477257
>I don't but even if I did, what would that fix?
It would tell you where the problem is.

>It sounds like at that point I would be looking at replacing the IC6 chip
Not at all. There's plenty of space between the port and the IC where things can get grounded.

[Anonymous No.3478384]

>>3455476
So hey, where you able to fix this?

I noticed you got a lot of answers but I couldn't see if you fixed it.

So what you need to do is just solder one side of a cable (any cable really, as long as it conducts, you're fine) to one of the pins I circled, to the other one following the trace. Repeat on each pin.

Based on what I see on the pic, only the pins I circled are affected (the left side) and you need to bridge them to the ones on the right side.

If you have a multimeter, you can check continuity by just placing the red (or black) cable on one side, and the other cable on the other side, if it beeps, you're golden.

[Anonymous No.3478389]

>>3472997
I think some of the pins are suffering from dry joints.

I circled the ones that most likely have it, there are probably more but it's hard to tell from a picture.

Look for something like pic related, if you see that "circle" that means dry joints, just resolder all pins that suffer from that and it should work.

[Anonymous No.3478524]

>>3477376
I've heard that as well. Also heard that aliens are anal probing cows. Both equally factual.

[Anonymous No.3478716]

>>3472704
Damaged capacitors are not supposed to act on the software, they only lower the display and the sound. So I'd say the cartridge slot or another cartridge-motherboard related component.

[Anonymous No.3478802]

>>3478524
Actually, the PSX did have a pretty decent DAC for the time it launched. It wasn't the flawless end-all-be-all quality DAC that some people might think, but it was pretty decent for the price. In order to turn those early PSX's into an actual good sound system, you need to do some modifications. I remember reading an article about how to mod one for good quality audio.

That being said, it's on par with just about any DAC that's been released since 2005. Even a shitty walkman will have the same quality these days.

[Anonymous No.3478908]

>>3478802
Actually, cows are getting anal probes by aliens. Dr. Ravi Gupta is a resident alien leading a study on the effects of bovine flatulence on climate change at UNL. He regularly has to dive into his work hands first, literally.

[Anonymous No.3479175]

>>3478908
Oh sorry, I didn't realize you were serious.

[Anonymous No.3479179]

>>3479175
wats wrong with screen

[Anonymous No.3479190]

>>3479179
>bait.jpg

[Anonymous No.3479198]

>>3479190
mabey try replacing capacitors

[Anonymous No.3479208]

>>3479179
>>3479190
>>3479198
But no, really, in all seriousness, do you really need help with this? Maybe post a better picture, but it looks like a flatscreen so it's probably just fucked

[Anonymous No.3479218]

>>3479208
i tried on a crt still lines on screen

[Anonymous No.3479312]

>>3479218
Do other games do it also? I'm assuming PS1, right? Are you playing it on a PS2 or PS3 by chance? Is that an RF?

[Anonymous No.3479316]

>>3478384
Nah haven't fixed it yet. I've been running around town trying to find 26 AWG copper wire and haven't been able to get any. I might just have to buy it off Amazon, I don't know.

Also, I have a pretty cheap and dinky multimeter so I don't have that option. It's an Actron CP7672 for those wondering.

Would there be any way to check for continuity on this thing?

Thanks for the concern and all of the pointers though.

[Anonymous No.3479365]

>>3479312
yes. also dont got ps3/ps2

[Anonymous No.3479379]

>>3479365
7.5v adaptor using

[Anonymous No.3479382]

>>3479365
What about the RF thing?

[Anonymous No.3479383]

I just got this ALPS model Commodore 1541 drive and I can't get the motor that makes the head move back and forth to do anything. I tried lubricating it but it still doesn't budge when I send commands to it. The drive is responsive otherwise but for some reason that part isn't working. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.3479386]

>>3479382
dont know

[Anonymous No.3479387]

>>3479386
What do you mean you don't know? You don't know how it's hooked up to the TV?

[Anonymous No.3479394]

>>3479387
it was red yellow white

[Anonymous No.3479439]

>>3479383
Could be a electrical fault.
Measure the stepper coil resistance (see ALPS.GIF, I have no idea which values but it mustn't be open/over 100Kohm or so) and checkout the circuits that drives these coils (see 1541-2.gif, check voltages at STEP 0/1 on UC1 and inverters UD1 and transistors Q9-Q11).
http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/cbm/1541/1541/

Also, does the spindle motor works?
If not then 12V could be gone.

[Anonymous No.3479490]

>>3479439
The motor for spinning the disc works just fine. Everything about the drive seems to work good, except that the head doesn't slide back and forth on the rail. I'll have to check those motor circuits in the gif using my multimeter. I'm not exactly a circuitry expert though so I may have to ask my dad for some help.

This is actually the second 1541 drive I've purchased recently. The previous one was a Newtronics drive (twist latch door) that I returned to the seller because the read/write head was unsealed and DOA. That one was mechanically perfect but useless without the read/write head.

There's also a 25V ceracap disc near one of the bigger ICs that has part of it broken off. I think it likely came from the factory that way because the warranty stickers were still sealed before I opened the unit, and I couldn't find a piece of broken ceramic anywhere inside. I'll replace that cap just to be safe but I doubt it has anything to do with the read/write head not moving.

[Anonymous No.3479545]

>>3478716
Thanks. I can't find any problem like this on the web

[Anonymous No.3479619]

>>3479316
>Actron CP7672
Pic related one, right?

Put it on the mode I circled, a number 1 should appear on the display.

1 means no continuity,
0 (well not actually 0, but like 0.0X or something) means continuity.

So put the multimeter there and then put one cable on one side, and the other one on the other side, If there's continuity, it should display 0.0X. If it continues to display 1, then it still doesn't have continuity.

You can actually check right now on the pins I pointed. all of them should display "1" right now if I'm correct.

Also, like I said, you can use literally any cable for this job.

[Anonymous No.3479737]

>>3479619
Thanks a bunch for the help. I tested them out and yes, about three-quarters of the pins circled have no continuity.

Will try and bridge with some wire soon.

[Anonymous No.3479785]

>>3479394
may just do this http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/mod-kits-repair-parts/products/copy-of-colecovision-restoration-repair-service?variant=4101914561


is it worth it

[Anonymous No.3479953]

>>3479785
>http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/mod-kits-repair-parts/products/copy-of-colecovision-restoration-repair-service?variant=4101914561
FUCK no. First of all, odds are it's your shitty cable causing you all the trouble, secondly there are PS1s at Goodwill for $5 all the time.

[Anonymous No.3479973]

>>3479953

Lol, read this:

This restoration service is for working PS1 systems only. Broken or faulty units are not accepted without prior approval.

Can't fix a broken PS1 lel/

[Anonymous No.3479980]

>>3479973
Did you read that list of what they do? I can't believe anyone pays for this "service". For fucks sake it's an extra THIRTY DOLLARS to get the case cleaned.

[Anonymous No.3480145]

>>3479439
After looking over this document I think I've narrowed it down to one of the following chips on the board being at fault: SN74LS123N (UD4), and SN74LS193N (UE6).

http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/cbm/1541/1541chip.txt

I'm not sure which one is at fault so I ordered replacements for both, and I'm going to have the replacements socketed onto the board rather than directly soldered. It's not a very expensive repair and hopefully this works out.

[Anonymous No.3481324]

>>3480145
>SN74LS123N (UD4)
That's a dual timer chip which is part of the data demodulation circuits, could be faulty if you can't read data at all.

>SN74LS193N (UE6).
That's the divider for the read/write clock, it could be faulty if you can't read or write data on some or all tracks.

Both of these have nothing to do with the stepper motor.
>I'm not sure which one is at fault so I ordered replacements for both,
You should have ordered a 7406 and 4 NPN transistors equivalent or better than 2SD467 instead.

[Anonymous No.3481780]

Can saves from PSCX2 be transfered to a PS2 memory card with this?

Also, can I transfer saves of the OG Xbox trough a CD-RW?

[Anonymous No.3481880]

>>3481780
As far as I know the memory card after only works on a PS3, and the files will only work on a PS3.

A better option is to use FreeMcBoot to transfer files to a USB stick on a PS2 console. It's also possible to transfer PS1 saves using a dexdrive though a USB to Serial adapter and the Dexter software on a modern PC.

[Anonymous No.3482014]

>>3481880
Will it recognize any USB stick or just to a certain amount? (like 4 GB)

[Anonymous No.3482019]

>>3482014
I'm not sure. I would stick to smaller USB sticks (4GB or less) just to be safe if you're looking to buy one, although there's no harm in testing if you have a whole bunch of them.

[Anonymous No.3482107]

saturn modchip recommendations

[Anonymous No.3482239]

>>3482107
The Phantom Universal is a great chip to get. You can get it from a guy on the Assmebler Forums who goes by the name of Zer0-2K11. I have one and I haven't had any issues since I got it.

[Anonymous No.3482292]

Just picked up a gameboy color, the up direction requires a little more force to work than the other directions. Is this something I should worry about?

Also pokemon red; name my rival please.

[Anonymous No.3482529]

Would anyone know why my shitty third party controller with no analog sticks would be working on my PS1 but not my first party analog controller? None of my PS2 controllers seem to work with the PS1 either.

Makes me think that it has something to do with it not taking analog controllers but that D-Pad controllers are for some reason fine?

[Anonymous No.3482693]

>>3482239
Not him but I just checked and I found the thread. That's kind of exciting for me because for a while I'd given up on finding a modchip for my Saturn. I'll be ordering one of those next time I get paid-- my poor Saturn has been very neglected because the local game supply has dried up and I am hesitant to pay eBay prices for most of the games I want to play.

[Anonymous No.3483510]

>>3482019
Okay, I tried and it seems CD-RW's can carry saves for the Xbox but after I copy them from the disc. It won't appear under the game saves folder. Help?

[Anonymous No.3483518]

>>3483510
Apperantly it recognizes the save under "Unknown files". But this can only be seen in the MS dashboard and not a modded one like UnleashedX.

[Anonymous No.3483817]

I just bought a broken SNES and I found that the (official) AC adaptor putting out over 13V. Is this normal?

[Anonymous No.3484137]

>>3481780
Why are those shits so expensive?

Can I like, play Silent Hill 1 on my PS3, save on the virtual memory card, and then transfer that save to my actual PlayStation memory card using that thing and continue my game on an actual PlayStation?

[Anonymous No.3484227]

>>3482107
>>3482239

Any .hex 's out there? I don't mind and would actually prefer flashing my own chips if I can find some good info. I'm the guy who just chipped a bunch of playstations further up in the thread.

[Anonymous No.3484228]

>>3484137
You can. However, when it comes to legacy Playstation gaming I prefer a softmodded PS2.

The reason why memory card adapters cost so much is because most people bought them, only used them once, and then sold theirs to someone else. It was only really in demand during the first year of the PS3's life, and then Sony removed backward compatability.

I have the memory card adapter and it more or less stopped being useful to me after I transfered my data. It once again became useful when my original PS3 got the YLOD of death and I had to move my data back to a PS2.

One of the best reasons to opt for transferring data from a softmodded PS2 or Dexdrive is because the data is compatable with emulators. The files from the official adapter are written in such a way that emulators can't support them at the time being, and with a softmodded PS2 being cheaper and more available than an adapter anyway, that's unlikely to change.

[Anonymous No.3484246]

>>3483817

test it under load

[Anonymous No.3485449]

To anyone who knows a lot about the SNES. I have a broken SNES. The schottky diode was completely fried and actually disintegrated off of the board. It took the solder pads with it, unfortunately.

I tried to scrape the traces right next to the pads, and created some rudimentary solder points.

Based on this schematic, the diode should have continuity with the fuse at F1 at the anode, and C32 and C67 at the cathode. As you guys probably know, C67 doesn't exist in North American SNES units. So I really only need to worry about C32.

So one of the new solder points has continuity with the fuse. Excellent.

My other solder point does *not* have continuity with C32. In fact I wonder if C32 is just fucked. C32 lives on the opposite side of the board, and it's a tiny surface mount capacitor.

What I am proposing is this. Solder a new diode. Solder the anode to my functioning solder point. Solder the cathode to a new ceramic (non-polar) capacitor to replace C32. My replacement C32 will be connected to the cathode of my new diode, AND to the power switch. I'll be sure to use the correct half of the switch.

Would this actually work?

[Anonymous No.3485484]

>>3484227
Not that I know of I'm afraid.
Pic related is the chip itself in case anyone is wondering.

[Anonymous No.3485540]

I have a Dualshock 2 but it doesn't exactly work anymore. On my PS1, only Start and X works. On my PS2, the LED lights up and the Analog button works. anyway to fix this?

[Anonymous No.3485687]

>>3481324
Yeah, replacing those ICs didn't fix it. What transistors would you recommend buying?

[Anonymous No.3485785]

>>3485449
>Would this actually work?
I don't see why but the whole case is really strange.
Do the power connector and 7805 look fine?
Any short to ground before and after the 7805?
Have you attempted to connect the output of the 7805 to a external 5V supply? (you gonna need 500-600mA for that and it would a good idea to remove the 7805)

>>3485687
Well, you better find out if they are broken for sure and measure it.
I think I have an idea how you can manually control these 2 lines that move the head without needing the CPU.
Remove UC2 6522 and manually connect pins 10,11 to either power or ground or just bend pins 10,11 out so you can put wire into the socket. Then you can measure the voltages at the stepper motor connector and UD1. You first have both pins to ground (binary 00) and measure, then connect one pin to power and measure again and repeat that for binary 01,10,11. You need to measure pins 3-6 of the stepper motor connector (the one with 6 pins) and pins 3-6,8-11 of UD1. It's better to turn off the drive while changing the wires.
Also did you measured the coils of the stepper motor?

As for replacement transistors, you better buy 2SD467 or some other ones with better or equal collector current, power dissipation and voltage rating. As for 7406, you could use 74LS06 instead.

[Anonymous No.3485796]

>>3485785
I just ordered a 5 pack of 2SD467 on eBay. Maybe I could have found an equivalent that was cheaper but I didn't want to fuss with it too much. I also ordered replacement SN7406N hex inverters for UB1 and UD1 since one of those might be a problem.

I did run into one slight snag when removing the old ICs earlier which is that one of the solder pads got lifted from the board when I popped the IC out, but I was able to bridge a wire over to the leg so it's not going to be a problem. I just need to be more careful going forward.

If replacing those hex inverters and the transistors doesn't work I will try your suggestion about bypassing. I did test the header on the motherboard and voltage should be heading to the stepper, although I haven't tried measuring the current directly from the stepper because that will involve further disassembly. I really hope there's not something wrong with the stepper motor itself, or else I may have a really expensive paperweight on my hands. Then again there's so many other things that can go wrong on these old drives which can potentially be fixed that the odds of that are really narrow, or at least I hope.

[Anonymous No.3485815]

>>3485796
>UB1
Could be faulty if the drive doesn't respond to the computer at all.
>If replacing those hex inverters and the transistors doesn't work I will try your suggestion about bypassing.
Why not the other way around?
With bypassing you could activate each individual transistor manually and check out if it works, why do you want to replace parts that could actually work?
>although I haven't tried measuring the current directly from the stepper
You don't need to do that.
Just disconnect and measure the resistance of the coils as it's shown in ALPS.GIF, even the colors of the wires are written there.
I think that the resistance of the whole coil is less than 1kohm, so if you measure way more than that then it could be broken.

[Anonymous No.3485846]

>>3485785
When I opened it up, there was green shit all over everything as if something exploded. The explosion appeared to originate from the power supply area. The fuse has continuity, though. I already plan on replacing the voltage regulator. The cost of that, the diode, and capacitor is only like $2 + shipping.

I primarily bought this SNES for the shell, which is in very good condition. No discoloration or anything. If this doesn't work, I'll probably Frankenstein it with an ugly but functional SNES. It's for personal use so I have no qualms about doing that.

[Anonymous No.3485891]

>>3483817
I wouldn't be surprised. The official model 1 Genesis adapter is rated for 9V but a reading of 16V isn't out of the question. Part of the reason the third party adapters tend to cause problems is because they only output the bare minimum, in some cases less than what the official ones are rated for.

[Anonymous No.3486071]

>>3485815
All of the lines to the stepper measured at about 0.04k or 0.03k ohms. Yellow and orange lines measured to the first red line, and brown and black measured to the second red line.

There is one more potential fault that I had not considered. One of the caps on the board was damaged when I got the drive, and it was right between the UB3 and UC3 chips. It was a small .1uf 25v cap, and I happened to have some of those left over from when I repaired a water damaged Atari 2600, so I replaced it. Do you suppose it's possible that the original cap was damaged badly enough that the chip connected to it may have gotten overvolted and fried? Would that cause the stepper motor to stop working?

[Anonymous No.3486126]

>>3485540
No, once a DualShock 2 controller dies, it can't be fixed, there's absolutely no way to fix a Dual Shock 2 controller, and if someone tries you to convince otherwise, it's a lie.

[Anonymous No.3486139]

>>3486126
What actually fails on those anyway? I dug out my PS2 recently and one controller was dead apparently for no reason. I cleaned what I could and still nothing.

I messed with the cable and got random button presses out of it though.

[Anonymous No.3486153]

>>3486126
Like I said, it isn't exactly dead/broken.

[Anonymous No.3486180]

>>3486153
You can try to open it and clean it.

That's pretty much all you can do to it, specially if it is one of those "paper pcb" versions.

[Anonymous No.3486192]

>>3486139
>I messed with the cable and got random button presses out of it though.
I've long lost track of the number of "broken" playstation controllers I've run across that were broken because the owner decided to tightly wrap the cables. I've lost two controllers of my own since I lent them to a friend who I mistakenly thought knew how to take care of shit.

For fucks sake people, copper wiring isn't plastic, you can't bend it like clay and expect it to work fine.

[Anonymous No.3486297]

>>3486192
People do it because it's not a problem with any other controllers, including the original Dualshock.

[Anonymous No.3486329]

>>3486297
I've seen SNES, NES, Genesis, PS1, and 2600 controllers with damaged cables because people did stupid shit like tie knots in them. Not tightly wrapping cables is just standard cable handling.

[Anonymous No.3486386]

>>3486329
I always wrapped my controllers in their own cords when I was a kid. If you know what the bias of a cable is you can usually wrap it without much worry.

Knots are really bad juju though. I never did that.

[Anonymous No.3486405]

>>3486386
>Knots are really bad juju though. I never did that.
I never understood why ANYONE would do that. I still end up seeing it to this day. What the hell is wrong with people?

[Anonymous No.3486416]

So do we have a substitute for the Gametech Wiki to put in the links for the next thread? Even a list of different system-specific game repair resources?

[Anonymous No.3486662]

>>3486386
>bias of a cable
My controller cables watch a lot of MSNBC so you know which way they lean.

[Anonymous No.3486667]

looking for opinions. should I get a GBC and install a frontlight mod for basically pennies, or just get an SP and call it a day?

I like larger screens- I see that the GBC has slightly larger pixels, but it seems marginal enough that it shouldn't matter much. Also, is a backlight really that much better than a frontlight?

[Anonymous No.3486704]

>>3486667
I have done two frontlight mods and it's pretty ace. However, I'm going to try and pick up a GB Boy Colour at some point and see how it compares. The problem with the front light is that the GBC's screen is very low contrast and desaturated, and no amount of illumination can fix that. Even so it's a nice mod and I get a lot more enjoyment out of my GBC with it installed.

[Anonymous No.3487857]

Can I just put a Dualshock 1 D-pad on a Dualshock 3? Will it conserve the "feeling" of the DS1's Dpad?

[Anonymous No.3488558]

>>3486667
>>3486704
Depends on what you care more about. Your ears or your eyes.

[Anonymous No.3488665]

>>3488558
I know people regularly shit on GBA audio, but is the backward compatibility that bad? only thing I can think of is the SP's lack of headphone jack

[Anonymous No.3488669]

>>3488665
I think he's referring to the GB Boy Colour. Some people say the audio is not as good as a real GBC. I probably wouldn't use it if I was a DJ but hopefully it's decent enough for regular gameplay.

[Anonymous No.3488674]

>>3488669
>GB Boy Colour

I have never in my life seen anyone on /vr/ talk positively about a clone console, and this one keeps popping up. What is different about this one?

[Anonymous No.3488678]

>>3488674
back lit LCD

[Anonymous No.3488685]

>>3488665
I mean, honestly, the GBC has some audio problems (namely a high whine and ear piercing clips), but it generally sounds better than the sp. You're gonna end up with some really fucking bad headaches with the GBC unless you do a backlight.
>>3488669
All of the game boys had the shitty preamp whine and fuzz from what I could tell, but you can hear more in the analogue style noise generation over the advance's sound generation.

It's all preference and if you're willing to do a little work then I would get a GBC. If you aren't using it for GBC games then get a Pocket. It has the best display of all of the pre advance ones, but there are some people that swear it will cause cart batteries to die faster so if they are true you could lose your saves. I'm sorry if this is rambling.

[Anonymous No.3488694]

>>3488685
>pocket
muh green developer intent

[Anonymous No.3488710]

>>3488685
>>3488694
Hmm? I'm just saying the pocket has the best screen of all the pre advance GBs and it's generally the cheapest too
>pic related for size comparison

[Anonymous No.3488914]

>>3488674
The screen is a lot nicer than the real Gameboy Color, the build is supposedly higher quality than most clones, and it's a nearly full hardware clone rather than being a system-on-a-chip.

[Anonymous No.3488918]

>>3488694
Green LED bivert for DMG, white LED bivert for GBP.

[Anonymous No.3488963]

>>3434432
newer IDE ribbon cables are bad for this. They use a solid core wire that doesn't solder well and breaks easily. The only ones from ATA33 ribbons are better, they're braided bunches of wire.

Another great source for wires are old parallel/printer cables. You get 25 high quality braided cables with multiple colors of shielding.

[Anonymous No.3488975]

>>3446094
>>3469518
there is ONE way.
Carefully pry it open. Inside will be a metal domed disc.
Use a fiberglass pen to scrape away any corrosion on it, and the contact underneath it.

Should work fine until it corrodes again.
Nintendo used very low quality microswitches on the GBA micro, DS, and DS Lite.

[Anonymous No.3488989]

>>3488963
The IDE cable I've been using is a stranded core rather than solid which is probably why I've been having good luck with it.

[Anonymous No.3489479]

>>3487857
Probably, but isn't the D-pad the same?

[Anonymous No.3490123]

Why is this message popping up from my snes? My only guess is the magnetic strip in my hotel card keys messedg with it

[Anonymous No.3490150]

>>3490123
maybe you should stop copying video games anon, its serious crime y'know.

or maybe check instruction booklet for further information.

[Anonymous No.3490152]

>>3490123
Dirty contacts.

[Anonymous No.3490542]

>>3490152
Thanks anon

[Anonymous No.3490617]

>>3490123
You have bootleg games, obviously

[Anonymous No.3490859]

Can't find much info on this, so asking here with all the recent posts about GB. Does the super game boy have good performance with GBC games? I can get RGB from snes out of the box, but only s-video on game boy player (GBI) without doing that digital port de-soldering nightmare. Wikipedia says that SGB only plays the black GBC carts (GB+GBC combo carts), and those play in monochrome compatibility mode just like a DMG or Pocket would, but with the custom palettes.

Am I right in assuming that basically SGB is better just for Game Boy games, while GBP is better for GBC games? GBP also has no borders and probably doesn't support the other special features like controller multiplayer, but it doesn't matter much compared to the lack of color.

[Anonymous No.3490868]

>>3490859
I'm preeeeeety sure the SGB doesn't play GBC games in color. You would need a SGB2 for that I THINK.

[Anonymous No.3490870]

>>3490868
If it has the super gameboy logo on it, it has color on the super game boy.

[Anonymous No.3490881]

>>3490870
Okay, thanks for the clarification. Like I said, I wasn't sure. I was pretty sure the games I tried specifically said they wouldn't work in a SGB when I tried them.

[Anonymous No.3490921]

>>3490870
So is that a portion of the black GBC cartridges, or a different subset of GBC games altogether?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Super_Game_Boy_games

There don't seem to be many games with actual GBC color support, bunch of disney stuff I guess. LADX and a bunch of others only have the color borders and are still monochrome.

[Anonymous No.3490927]

>>3490921
I'm not sure. I know that they have some compatibility. Either a border or some color pallets if its supported.

[Anonymous No.3490990]

>>3490859
super game boy(or pocket/GBP) doesnt play GBC games, only grey and black carts.