/CRT/ Thread - Two > Zero

[Anonymous No.3309078]

Previous thread: >>3291450
This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
An Anon's Guide to CRT Hunting: http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
BKM-10R Protocol Information: http://pastebin.com/aTUWf33J
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

[Anonymous No.3309112]

So i'm in a bit of a pickle here

I currently play my ps1 light gun games on a ps2 connected to my pvm with component cables. The guncon one has the composite splitter built into the cable, so you just plug it into the where your green component cable would go and then plug in the actual green component cable to piggy back off that. That's how you get sync and it all just works nicely.

However, I bought two guncon 2's lately and they both lack the Y splitter on the cable, leaving just the yellow composite plug and a usb cable. I can't find the specific Y-Splitter anywhere on ebay or trading sites. Has anyone had any luck using a off the shelf Y-splitter in it's place?

[Anonymous No.3309113]

>>3309112
Here's the splitter that you need.

[Anonymous No.3309117]

>>3309078
Well, Uh, I'm going to take advantage of this rare opportunity even if you children aren't interested. Which do you think is more important-- Color convergence or Color purity?

[Anonymous No.3309230]

>>3309117
convergence! i have a corner on my BVM where the colors are a little off, and i usually forget about it, but when convergence is bad, it kills me

[Anonymous No.3309431]

FREE TUBE 27 INCH TV FOR ANYONE IN THE CHICAGOLAND AREA

Does S-Video & Composite. Someone take this thing before I get it recycled.

[Anonymous No.3309435]

How well do BVMs and monitors like them hold up to heat?

My place isn't air conditioned and it gets up to ~90° F in the summer.

[Anonymous No.3309442]

>>3309435
i dunno man
my BVM gets painfully hot to the touch on its heatsinks

[Anonymous No.3309448]

>>3309112
Does your component cord have a composite yellow as well as RGB component and RW audio? I plug my gun cons into the yellow that isn't even hooked up to my tv with (picture related)

I have tried with S-video as well. The yellow composite IS NOT plugged into the tv but the guncons are. They function fine.

[Anonymous No.3309451]

>>3309448
Actually the cord I linked needs these adapters also... I just looked. I went with the above cords for other reasons then re purposed them for my gun cons with these rca ro rca interconnectors.

[Anonymous No.3309484]

Some one mentioned last bred about pc going to a component tv.

Anyone have their 15khz dvi-i pc going to a component tv? What connection method did you use to get 240p and 480i?

I have AMD gpu capable of 240p right now. Just no way to adapt it into component. Some people said Scart was no lag compared to vga to component.

[Anonymous No.3309493]

>>3309484
You don't want scart anything when it comes to transcoders and the like. Anything with scart is a red flag for shit quality.

Transcoders have no lag. A VGA to Component would be best if that's what you want. A good American one like the Audio Authority 9A60A. Unfortunately no one makes these trancoders anymore so you're stuck with new old stock.

Chink transcoders and anything with SCART would be lucky to support SMPTE and VESA standards.

[Anonymous No.3309497]

so you guys know that a 14" CRT is better than a 20", right? Like, an image that small obviously looks better with less magnification. when you blow a 224p image up to 20"+ that's what introduces artifacts. you don't even need S-video or higher at small resolutions, it looks good on its own.

[Anonymous No.3309502]

>>3309493
The 9A60A doesn't seem to do 480i and 240p. At least what their website says. The last thread someone said scart to component was the best way to get 240p to a tv.

With a 240p 15khz pc can I use the 9A60A and turn dvi-i to vga to component?

[Anonymous No.3309507]

>>3309497
This is actually an issue with PVMs as well. Some specifically look better because their small screen size compared to larger consumer sets. I have personally seen a few PVMs that looked about as bad if not worse than an equally sized bubble CRTs.

Personally I do notice quality difference in cords as small as 10 inches. Usually with the scan lines.

[Anonymous No.3309571]

>>3309502
9A60A supports 480i.

>The last thread someone said scart
Anyone recommending scart anything is an idiot to say the least.

>dvi-i to vga
If it's supported.

[Anonymous No.3309589]

>>3309571
That person wants 240p. Scart is the best option. You just said it supports 480i, which isn't 240p.

[Anonymous No.3309604]

>>3309589
>That person wants 240p. Scart is the best option.
No transcoder worth a damn uses scart.

>You just said it supports 480i, which isn't 240p.
Man you must be smart.

[Anonymous No.3309606]

N64 Through S-Video

>>3308978
Holy shit that's a thing?

[Anonymous No.3309629]

>>3309604
This box has been the recommendation for 5+ years now. VGA to Scart to that box to tv with component. I am sure thousands if not tens of thousands of people all over the internet were wrong. From private forums to invite only warez.

Care to tell me how YOU would hook up a DVI-I 15khz pc to a component tv? From DVI-I to tv.

[Anonymous No.3309638]

>>3309606
>Holy shit that's a thing?
Yeah, depending on the age range you set your save file as initially, once you collect all gold gems you'll get a different human form marina ending.

Next time you play it, which you inevitably will, set it to the opposite range. Don't spoil yourself by looking it up. Shake shake on my fellow anon.

Pic related is Rakugaki Showtime Marina.

[Anonymous No.3309640]

>>3309629
That is scart to component.
>VGA to Scart to that box to tv with component.
Full fucking retard.

>CSY-2100
Ok at best. Doesn't support SMPTE. Color correctness out the window.

The clones are ultra shit. Which is what 99% of people talk about and use when talking about the CSY-2100.

[Anonymous No.3309645]

Threadly reminder not to fall for the SCART meme.

[Anonymous No.3309653]

>>3309507
It's pasta. Please don't take it seriously.

[Anonymous No.3309662]

THERE IS LITERALLY NOTHING VIDEO GAMES ABOUT THIS FUCKING THREAD

[Undesired Life No.3309668]

Reasking in this thread since it most likely will be missed being at the end of the other thread.

Question about a/v receivers, Would the C signal of Y/C s-video transmit properly over the pb/pr inputs of component?

pb/pr is .7vp-p
c is .286vp-p

if anyone has the ability to test this for me id be very appreciative of them. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.3309684]

>>3309640
Good job avoiding the question.
>>3309645
Good job avoiding the question.

[Anonymous No.3309691]

>>3309645
> Says someone that has never used scart.

[Anonymous No.3309692]

>>3309589
480i is 240p

[Anonymous No.3309696]

>>3309692
I am trying to bait that person. I want this kid to explain how he expects his setup to be better than the option I previously explained.

[Anonymous No.3309715]

>>3309684
>>3309696
What is the question? Your sentence structure is beyond retard.

[Anonymous No.3309723]

>>3309715
You have replied with non context answers time and time again. You constantly refer to retard (home problems kid?).

15khz DVI-I to component tv. Can't make it any dumber. I wan't an intelligent answer so I can see why you keep recommending the 9a60 or 9a60a.

[Anonymous No.3309727]

>>3309723
>non context answers
Saying it supports 480i is non context? You are a fucking retard to say the least.

Still no idea what you're asking. Is DVI capable of supporting 240? Nothing to say it can't. Depends entirely on the hardware.

[Anonymous No.3309749]

>>3309727
I see you still avoided the question.

15khz DVI-I to component tv.

[Anonymous No.3309752]

>>3309749
>I see you still avoided the question.
WHAT QUESTION?
>15khz DVI-I to component tv.
Is not a question you fucking idiot.

[Anonymous No.3309753]

>>3309684
>>>3309645 (You)
>Good job avoiding the question.
My recommendation has nothing to do with your question.

[Anonymous No.3309761]

>>3309752
Just because you cannot answer it doesn't mean it isn't a question.

15khz DCI-I to component tv.

To dumb it down more for you. How would you connect 15khz DVI-I pc to a component only tv.

[Anonymous No.3309763]

>>3309752
You have yet to be right about anything. Can you answer the fucking question if you know the answer you autism cuck faggot.

[Anonymous No.3309767]

>>3309761
He will never answer you because he simple doesn't know. He is one of many that read or heard something long ago, that never properly understood it and propagated the incorrect information.

[Anonymous No.3309780]

>>3309761
>Just because you cannot answer it doesn't mean it isn't a question.
A question ends with (?) you fucking idiot.
>15khz DVI-I to component tv.
Looks like a chain to me. Good job you want from DVI to component to TV. There's no question there.

>How would you connect 15khz DVI-I pc to a component only tv.
Horrible fucking grammar. But at least it's more like a question now. At least I can understand it as a question.
Assuming the hardware supports DVI to VGA I would just use a 9A60A tanscoder. Think I said this already.

>You have yet to be right about anything. Can you answer the fucking question if you know the answer you autism cuck faggot.
>cuck faggot
I figured you were foreign or something. But now I'm leaning towards severely underage.

[Anonymous No.3309784]

>>3309767
I actually use this shit. Own a 9A60A currently but used in a different chain.

[Anonymous No.3309786]

>>3309752
refer your autism to
>>3309484
The initial question you failed to help on or answer. You keep spouting shit you do not understand like SMPTE or VESA as if that matter from pc to tv.

[Anonymous No.3309794]

>>3309786
>as if that matter from pc to tv.
It does matter if you want to output correct resolutions.

[Anonymous No.3309797]

>>3309780
You are the autism that is wrong with vr. Get the fuck off this board and go to Reddit.

[Anonymous No.3309798]

>>3309780
You keep attempting insults kid. You keep on acting like you know and you have yet to provide any intelligent reply. Going as far as greetext.

A question doesn't need to have a question mark at the end when it is reference a previously asked (albeit for you too in depth) question.

Still awaiting the reply.

[Anonymous No.3309814]

>>3309797
>>3309798
>A question doesn't need to have a question mark at the end

You kids are really fucking dumb. Like really dumb.

"Question" was answered.

[Anonymous No.3309817]

>>3309814
Kek. He thinks he answered something.

[Anonymous No.3309818]

>>3309814
>answered it
No it wasn't answered you fucking idiot. Where the fuck did you answer the question.

>Anyone have their 15khz dvi-i pc going to a component tv? What connection method did you use to get 240p and 480i?

>I have AMD gpu capable of 240p right now. Just no way to adapt it into component. Some people said Scart was no lag compared to vga to component

See all of that you autistic retarded fucking cuck. Get over it, you can't answer it and fucked up long ago.

[Anonymous No.3309819]

>>3309817
>>3309818
Try reading kids. Question was answered.

Unless you're talking about some other question I missed. I answered the question about the dvi to component.

[Anonymous No.3309824]

>>3309819
/vr/ the thread. Person asks question that never gets answered but someone who spouts idiotic nonsense acts like it was.

>Anyone have their 15khz dvi-i pc going to a component tv? What connection method did you use to get 240p and 480i?

I love how that one converter box is all you need in your sub-mongoloid theory of how that setup works.

[Anonymous No.3309826]

>>3309824
Stop replying to him. He doesn't know and maybe someone that does will chime in.

[Anonymous No.3309827]

>>3309684
>>3309696
>>3309723
>>3309749
>>3309761
>>3309763
>>3309797
>>3309798
Mods get in here and clean up this mess please
the fucking insanity ive stumbled upon jesus christ
>>3309696
why? just get on with your life this anon did nothing to you and you sperg out
get out of this thread with your immaturity

[Anonymous No.3309832]

>>3309827
Kek. Now he's acting like someone else. Mods ban this jew.

[Anonymous No.3309834]

>>3309827
Stop it kid. You don't know the fucking answer and you can post as an unrelated party all you want. Awaiting answer to question still.

[Anonymous No.3309835]

>>3309827
Self portrait? Nice!!!

[Anonymous No.3309837]

>>3309824
>>3309826

Question was answered you illiterate children.

[Anonymous No.3309846]

>>3309827
tfw more people disagree with you than you have friends.

[Anonymous No.3309849]

So um... what cheap crt should I get to play retro games on?

[Anonymous No.3309851]

>>3309837
Ok, what was the answer. I scanned every autistic comment and have yet to see how you explained a DVI-I to component tv connection.

You can't call people children when you are a child yourself. Stop being upset and answer the question so we can make fun of your ass for getting it wrong.

[Anonymous No.3309853]

>>3309851
Not repeating myself. Read my post. Answered it awhile back.

[Anonymous No.3309856]

>>3309849
Literally anything.

[Anonymous No.3309878]

>>3309662
subtract the television from the equation of game playing...what are you doing?.... not playing a video-game. an N64 on an LED display is ligit not a good an experience, snes has noticeable delays in button presses. even worse the NES. have you ever tried to use an LED display for an atari 2800? it doesnt work ( this is retro vidya right?) so here's your- (you). sweaty try hard.

[Anonymous No.3309884]

what does this thread think of that Phonedork guy on youtube? He basically talks about nothing but this thread.

[Anonymous No.3309887]

>>3309849
RCA/ SONY / NEC / Olympus stick with those brands and you wont regret it.

[Anonymous No.3309892]

>>3309832
>>3309834
>>3309835
>>3309846
Im this anon >>3309692
so calm the fuck down samefag

[Anonymous No.3309893]

the /v/ is strong today

[Anonymous No.3309906]

>>3309887
Thanks buddy.

[Anonymous No.3310005]

god damn, XC37c is one sync-picky sonuva
>doesn't accept MD sync (from rgb bypass)
>doesn't accept fr SMS sync
>doesn't accept NESRGB CS#
>doesn't accept NESRGB composite
>doesn't accept SNES Luma-as -sync
>doesn't accept PS2 Luma-as-sync

However, once an LM1881 is on the way, it'll happily display anything...

[Anonymous No.3310157]

>>3309645
This. I fell for the SCART meme a few years ago. My dad walked in on me using inferior picture quality than what was readily available. Ended up in the loony bin for a couple months. When I finally got out I decided to set up a treatment center, where SCART victims could open up and describe their experience, how they were memed etc. I've been on the straight and narrow for just over a year now, and I cherish every SCARTless day like it was my last.

SCART cables. Not even once.

[Kya@mobile No.3310237]

>>3310005
I could have told you that.

Odd that csync from the nesrgb doesn't work though.
If you just want to test something out, YPbPr from the PS2 will be seen as RGsB, and putting it into RGB mode will actually make the system output RGsB for 480p stuff.

I personally have my SNES mini modified to output csync on the cvid pin, which does work.

[Anonymous No.3310319]

>>3309078
are there any mexicans itt by any chance? I'm a long time lurker and man, I just wanna get a PVM. International shipping is a bitch with TVs this heavy, and I only see people selling their PVMs on craiglist but they all live in the US. jdimsa

[Anonymous No.3310334]

>>3310319
What part of mexico?

[Anonymous No.3310349]

>>3310334
Monterrey, Nuevo León

[Anonymous No.3310359]

>>3310349
That's a big city. You may find someone selling it nearby on mercadolibre but it has a shady reputation. I found one in a tianguis in a much smaller city so you can try looking around there.

[Anonymous No.3310376]

>>3310359
>I found one in a tianguis
wat. you must be lucky, I mean what are the possibilities of finding people selling such monitors in there? or how come do those monitors end up in a tianguis?

I was thinking of going to some places where they do live tv broadcasts, maybe they have some BVMs in the closet who knows.

[Anonymous No.3310402]

>>3310376
>wat. you must be lucky,
Not that lucky. I bought it cheap but it was abused as a security monitor so it has some burn-in. I know heard of someone else that found another one in a tianguis in Hermosillo.
>or how come do those monitors end up in a tianguis?
Mine was because a gringo wanted to get rid of it and gave it to the guy who sold it to me.

>I was thinking of going to some places where they do live tv broadcasts, maybe they have some BVMs in the closet who knows.
That may work in Monterrey because it is a large city with several stations.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3310492]

>>3309668
If it just acts as a dumb switch, I don't see any problem with it working correctly.

If the receiver actively reads said inputs and does some sort of internal processing, even if only for itself and not on the output side, it may depend on the receiver. If it auto switches, I would think it would detect that via Y, so that wouldn't be an issue.

>>3309884
Phonedork is pretty cool. The videos have a decent amount of research put into them and presented in a straight forward, uncomplicated manner. They shouldn't be taken as absolutes and 100% correct on some subjects, as there's always going to be subjective comments mixed in(which he even states quite often) and you're going to get something that isn't entirely true or not the whole picture every once in a while.

I prefer the occasional video he puts out to the "My Life in Gaming" shit that keeps floating around, even if they have different aims and audiences.

[Anonymous No.3310581]

>>3309878
>2800

[Anonymous No.3310584]

>>3310492
>even if they have different aims and audiences.
Aim is the same. Different audience.

[Undesired Life No.3310618]

>>3310492
My worry was the C voltage was too low to be picked up and pass throughed properly by either of the Pb/Pr lines.

Cause i have an Inline switch for my RGB consoles and it didnt like having composite video as sync going through the sync board. I had to rig it up through one of the other RGB lines in order for it to transmit through properly.

I was asking because Im shopping for one but finding it hard to decide which to buy. Id love to be able to just buy 1 and use it for everything from my retro setup and my modern setup. Because most higher end ones have dual zones so i can use it for both simultaneously.

But in order to have S-video natively on the receiver id have to sacrifice being able to have the receiver ready for 4k 60hz.

The hdmi revisions were too far apart so receivers with s-video depending on brand do have 4k but 30hz maximum.

Sorry for the non retro side of this but its necessary to explain my specific needs in an a/v receiver.

[Anonymous No.3310736]

How can I center the image horozontally on my PVM 20M2MDU? It's about two pixels too far on the left and it's killing me.

[Anonymous No.3310847]

Toot toot...anti-PVM train rolling through. Friendly reminder that retro games were meant to be played on retro consumer grade sets and you can find them for $0-$50 easily...toot toot

[Anonymous No.3310858]

>>3310847
Congrats. You won the most 3rd world pic on /vr/.

You did it!

[Anonymous No.3311010]

So I played around for a couple of hours with the service menu on my LG Flatron CRT. Since it's one of those flat consumer sets the factory settings looked like shit, and even with tweaking there wasn't a lot able to be done to save it but it turned out better than expected.

The convergence is much better though it's a bit tighter around the middle area as expected, and the scan lines are much sharper. I also calibrated the colour and I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out.

It's no PVM, but it's the best I've got.

[Anonymous No.3311013]

>>3311010
PVMs and BVMs are just as fucked if not more so.

[Anonymous No.3311015]

>>3311010
In the previous picture the screen doesn't converge completely in the top and bottom parts of the screen because I'm using the genesis 240p suite. For true 240p games it takes up the entire visible area.

I'm using component input from my ps2 to play most of my games. PSX games look amazing, games like dodonpachi make me want to tate the heavy beast but I don't have a way to safely prop it up. Here's a close up of sotn.

[Anonymous No.3311021]

>>3311015
And lastly Gradius V with the 240p and fmv hack. The game was basically designed for 240p. Beautiful crisp lines with the laser and the interface fits perfectly in the resolution with no cut text from scaling. The space scenes look beautiful with the stars shifting across a progressive line.

Forgive the shit quality of my phone camera.

[Anonymous No.3311027]

>>3310847
did you take this with your webcam?

[Anonymous No.3311353]

>>3310847
>facebook open on one tab
>4chan open on another


fuck off normalfag

[Anonymous No.3311354]

While I love owning a CRT TV I feel that owning a CRT VGA Monitor is pointless. Most PC games that are worth playing have workarounds for the low resolution and I haven't found that many PC games I like enough to justify keeping this monitor.

What do you guys think? Do you own both or what?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311356]

>>3309435
there will be a listed maximum operating temperature in the documentation for your monitor, probably.

I used my 20L5 in a non-air-conditioned dorm and it worked fine, but I've heard the BVMs are way worse in terms of heat generated.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311358]

>>3309493
>Chink transcoders and anything with SCART would be lucky to support SMPTE and VESA standards.

VESA timings are only important for PC monitors. And if the converter is a "passive" one in the sense of not containing a framebuffer or RAM, it will follow the source's timings.

Also, still curious which SMPTE and VESA standards you think you're talking about. Because that sounds like BS to my ear.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311365]

>>3309668
Itt won't work. Not properly, anyway. The YCbCr color space is different than the YIQ color space. I'm not even sure summing the Pb+Pr signals would give you color anyway, since I haveen't tried it, but if there is miraculously color, it will be in the wrong color space.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311375]

>>3310847
toot-toot, my non-pvm broadcast monitor has better convergence than consumer crap and was free... toot-toot.

But yeah, I prefer consumer TVs once you hit around 20 inches and have more blank black space than lit phosphors.

[Anonymous No.3311382]

>>3311375
I love your monitor, seriously and I can dig an FC, but clean your desk up jesus christ. Also, buy a copy of sweet home.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311383]

>>3311027
he took it with an iphone. thus 'image.jpg'.

every image you ever upload from an iphone will be converted to a jpeg and named 'image.jpg', because iOS is literally Stalin. (controls markets with absolute power and removes any app Apple doesn't approve of).

I speak from experience.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311386]

>>3311382
That pic's from december.
I was just finished modding tgr''he famicom when I took this and the supplies were still out.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311391]

>>3311383
ah, nvm, it is a webcam pic. But uploaded from iShit.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311398]

>>3311375
and I forgot to mention that the HV regulation on consumer CRTs sucks too. Convergence is typically totally fixable if:
1) your yoke isn't permanently fixed on the tube (common on cheapest sets; be wary of these if you are importing from the other hemisphere)
2) you have convergence strips
3) your CRT isn't one of those "low profile" ones like my toshiba unfortunately is.

[Anonymous No.3311412]

>>3309645
Here's your (you):
Only bad thing with SCART is audio buzz. PQ is alright. It's not going to become much better because you mod in BNC plugs in your console.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311416]

>>3311398

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311427]

>>3311412
The other problems with SCART (outside europe and maaaybe australia if you have an uncommon SCART set there) are high price, practically no new availability (not manufactured anymore it seems), lack of equipment that actually _uses_ SCART for RGB, forcing you to buy SCART cables for all your systems and then buy adaptors so you can actually use the SCART cables on your sets, defeating the point of SCART in the first place (convenience).

Also decent SCART switchers are expensive as fuck.

Still, a valid option in europe.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311435]

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311436]

>>3311435
Marginally better exposure

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311439]

last pic for a little while.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311448]

One more thing.

Wanna work yourself into a rage?
http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/general-lets-talk-business/10329-how-remove-yoke-from-tv-without-breaking-glass.html

By the end of the thread people are suggesting using sledgehammers to break the glass. Scrappers are the WORST. One got a PC jr. near me and wanted me to pay him $130 for him to not scrap it for the gold in the cartridge slot. I had to leave knowing full well he was destroying history.

[Anonymous No.3311459]

>>3311427
>no new availability
It's still being manufactured. In an electronics store in Japan I could even buy the connector as a component. Granted it was kind of expensive (cheaper getting cables and using those connectors).
I bet if you where in Shenzhen or something you could get them super cheap though. In fact the main problem here, if you should wish to make your own cable, is that it's hard to get hold of Multi-AV connectors and such for systems that use proprietary versions, solderable SCART connectors are a lot easier to come by.

>decent scart switchers are expensive as fuck
Picture related is about 5-10 bucks. As long as you get something fully wired with manual switches, you're golden.
Sure the automatic switches and such are expensive as fuck, but who needs that? Just get off your arse and hit the button.

Mine had the added (mis)feature(?) of turning RGB on for all inserted SCART connectors even if only one actually had it. Turned out to be useful with one of my mis-wired SCART cables (I guess it was wired for RGB monitors because they forgot about the blanking pin, which is important if you're using it on a SCART TV). Still no PQ problems or otherwise. My only gripe is it doesn't have more connections. The RCA break-out jacks also come in very handy for wiring up audio, or the odd SCART-composite-thingamajig (e.g. my VCR) to something that will only accept RCA (like the framemeister).

>adapters are inconvenient
Still more convenient than modding in RCA outlets in your system, and I say that as someone capable of doing it, but I just can't be arsed to because the gain of doing it is too small.
Sure I'll grant using S-Video (still stuck in NTSC colorspace, lol) will be more convenient, but then why did you get an RGB monitor to begin with?

[Anonymous No.3311495]

>>3311459
This picture related scart-switch is also dirt-cheap and looks reasonable. Haven't used it myself though, but am thinking of getting one for daisy-chaining with.

[Anonymous No.3311516]

>>3311459
>>3311495
And yes, I do kind of wish that cable makers would clue up and make RGBs Multi-AV to RCA or Multi-AV to BNC, but those would probably be at least as expensive, if not more than those expensive SCART cables you like to whine about. Especially since the only people I think would get this idea would be the more "luxurious" (for lack of a better word) cable makers. The chinky-chink RGB scart cable makers (whose cables are pretty cheap on ebay, btw, but be prepared you need to fix them up yourself a bit, they might forget the blanking pin and such if you want to use a SCART TV that cares about that) probably won't clue up to that any time soon.

[Anonymous No.3311523]

I stopped coming to these threads long ago, even after filtering 20L5 guy. It's just the same shit over and over again. Blurry monitor pics, 20L5 guy getting butt-frustrated over the mere existence of SCART, and people asking the same questions over and over.

I suppose that's really the best purpose for these threads, for new enthusiasts to get up to speed and to get help hunting down their ideal CRT. Once you actually have one, you may as well just go play instead of wasting your time here.

>>3311459
>I say that as someone capable of doing it, but I just can't be arsed to because the gain of doing it is too small.
This. I put a lot of thought into it, but then the issue was you end up with this fucking mess of wires for each system, and no straightforward method of switching systems besides just manually swapping plugs. Ask 20L5 guy to post pictures of his switch setup. It's the most stupidly convoluted thing I've ever seen, all for the sake of saving some money and being smug about it.

I used to just swap my SCART cables by hand, but recently I ended up shelling out way to much money for this thing I read about on RetroRGB. Custom built by some guy who probably overcharged for it, but it comes with a built-in sync stripper, and a VGA out and separate audio out jack, which is pretty damn convenient. Best of all, it switches automatically when you power on a system.

It cost a ridiculous $200, but you know what? I've got a fucking job, and I pay thousands in taxes, insurance and bills that I get fucking nothing back from every year. Why should I have any trepidation about spending $200 on a magic box that I use almost every day and makes my favorite hobby super-convenient?

[Anonymous No.3311536]

>>3311523
>I pay thousands in taxes

Lol what a fgt

[Anonymous No.3311542]

>>3311523
That switch there is way too expensive for me, though. I'm thinking if I go into that price class I'll instead go for one of those extron switches, because they can do matrix switching. I guess it will be somewhat more of a mess though, and I'd need a whole lot of BNC-SCART converters though. Either that or I build me some Multi-AV to BNC-cables.

Also auto-switching only means I can't have several systems on at once and switch between them (or can it do that, somehow?).

Right now I'm in the middle-land of swapping around cables because I have too many systems for my 3-port switch. I guess daisy-chaining is the cheapest way of expansion for now.

[Anonymous No.3311543]

Also I route composite signals through my SCART switch for Famicom and VCR, so I'd need something that could optionally turn sync switching off. I've even gone and bought patch-length BNC cables to route from Line A/B to Ext sync on my PVMs, so I only need to switch the channel to use composite (almost as convenient as a SCART TV, which will do the switching for you)
I guess manual switches + switchable sync stripper is what I need.

[Anonymous No.3311546]

>>3311543
>sync switching
sync stripping

[Anonymous No.3311551]

>>3311523
Problem with 20-L5 guy is that he's actually helpful when he's not being a smug ass about free monitors, SCART, or whatever.

I liked it better when he was anon so I could imagine he was several persons.

[Anonymous No.3311565]

And to change the subject.
My PVM-14N2E, which in some respects is better than my PVM-14-L4 has this problem:
I'm betting it's HV related. Is it fixable. Will I die fixing it? Will I only die slightly? It'd be really neat to fix.
Apart from that the geometry is also somewhat shot. It used to be even worse but I messed with it and it became somewhat better, however ended up introducing other idiosyncracies.

The lower TVL makes it look more like a consumer TV, and helps hide imperfections in the video, and the sharpening options (hidden in the service menu) make anime and games and other things with black outlines look great.
The sharpening option I'm using looks like it's only sharpening dark things, so it doesn't look nearly as bad as your typical sharpening (e.g. framemeister) that gives lots of ringing etc.

It'd be cool to get some sort of external processor to do stuff like that independently of the monitor too. Been thinking about that since I got my LD player (esp. since my player is pretty noisy).

[Anonymous No.3311575]

>>3311542
>Also auto-switching only means I can't have several systems on at once and switch between them (or can it do that, somehow?).
Not really, no. Why would you want to, though? I mean, I guess I can imagine a scenario where it would be handy, but I've never wanted or needed to. The switch automatically takes whichever system was powered on most recently.

>>3311551
He's helpful, but it's usually not worth it. I can often find similar info with a google search.

[Anonymous No.3311582]

>>3311575
If you leave a system on, because the game lacks saves, but you want to switch to playing something else. I like zapping between games sometimes.

The auto-switching part makes it barely better than one of those switchless things, that just mix everything together, for me personally. Those work fine, as long as you only have one system on at a time. (Although I have heard that sometimes wierd things like one system back-powering another may happen).

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311593]

>>3311459
You're gonna be getting some ghosting on that switch, probably. At the very least a marked decrease in quality.

I should clarify that __unless you live in japan or china__, which I am assuming most of us don't, you're not going to find new SCART sockets of both genders (referring to the connector, not prebuilt cables). Also, in Japan the cables won't be electrically compatible with SCART.
Digikey and mouser have nothing promising.

The mis-wiring of cables/switches and the fact that the SCART standard uses composite video as sync means that SCART leaves a lot to be desired.

>>3311516
They would not be more expensive than the SCART cables because you wouldn't have to buy a SCART cable and separate cable to actually use the first cable you bought.

[Anonymous No.3311623]

>>3311523
when a pro 6x2 switcher costs around 150, 200 is way too much for that kind of thing.

I have a 9x1 (or 8x2, haven't decided yet) project in my mind, will probably be kinda ghetto and time consuming, but that what home projects are about, right ?

[Anonymous No.3311624]

>>3311523
You really don't like me do you?

[Anonymous No.3311626]

>>3311593
> probably
indeed. Probably.

[I'm doing this just to annoy y(...) No.3311635]

>>3311523
note that your toggle switch costs more than I've spent on my entire setup.

I bet you've got all apple products. Sorry if that's wrong, but it sounds like the right type of person to me. I'm ashamed to admit I've got close family members that would buy a Mac Pro with two CPUs and use it for sorting photos.

[Anonymous No.3311637]

>>3311593
>SCART leaves a lot to be desired
Except it doesn't. All of the downsides of SCART that you keep harping on are really only issues if you buy cheap-ass cables. And there is literally nothing wrong with sync from composite, even without a stripper. I've never had a sync issue at all on a PVM or through an upscaler.

>>3311624
I don't like self-righteous assholes. So no. Do what you do, and let others do what they do. Stop acting like your way is 100%, undeniably the "right" way, you Volvo-driving faggot.

[I'm doing this just to annoy y(...) No.3311638]

>>3311626
I mean to say I'd have used a KVM switch instead, since those are designed with very high frequency video in mind. They'd be more predictable and considerably cheaper for the quality provided. Especially since you could ditch SCART.

[Anonymous No.3311640]

>>3311638
stop assuming, start proving.

[Anonymous No.3311647]

>>3311635
>note that your toggle switch costs more than I've spent on my entire setup.
And why should I care?
>I bet you've got all apple products
Not a single one.

[Anonymous No.3311648]

>>3311635
>too cheap to get 4 220 caps locally
>too impatient to order 100 for $1

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311652]

>>3311551
>Problem with 20-L5 guy is that he's actually helpful when he's not being a smug ass about free monitors, SCART, or whatever.

>I liked it better when he was anon so I could imagine he was several persons.
Yeah, I kind of liked that too. But that meant I got blame for the smart-ass bits and not associated with the help I was also giving. It gave rise to people like >>3311523 having me to scapegoat.

[Anonymous No.3311662]

>>3311647
>Not a single one.
Although I will admit to being a bit of a Sony-fag. Growing up, all of my electronics were Sony, and I really liked them and never had any problem with them, so now I'm a bit of a loyalist. Yet I was never a big fan of the Playstation...

>>3311652
>But that meant I got blame for the smart-ass bits and not associated with the help I was also giving.
The fact that you give a shit is what makes you such a tremendous faggot.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3311663]

>>3311648
I don't like driving across town when I have the supplies on hand, sorry.

[Anonymous No.3311686]

>>3311663
>too lazy to walk/bike
unsurprisingly

[Anonymous No.3311718]

>>3309435
That screen looks nice as hell.
What is it? And how bad is the heat? Anyway to mitigate it without making it look like shit?

[Anonymous No.3311719]

>>3311663
So you don't like doing things right, is what you're saying?

[Anonymous No.3311734]

>>3309497
>my wife/gf wouldn't let me bring a 20" CRT into the house

[Anonymous No.3311859]

>>3311593
nah, not much ghosting. definitely no marked decrease in quality. I could barely tell when I tried with and without before. I think I get more ghosting from my long cable runs, and only at the end of that (1m scart from console, 3m scart to first pvm, 3m BNC from first PVM to second).

[Anonymous No.3311863]

>>3311638
>since you could ditch scart
you mean
>you have to make custom RGBs to VGA-adapters for everything

pretty much the reason I'm not using a KVM switch right now, can't be arsed to make special cables most of the time.

[Anonymous No.3311874]

>>3311593
>you're not going to find new SCART sockets of both genders (referring to the connector, not prebuilt cables).
Even in Japan, getting the prebuilt cable for the socket only is still cheaper, so w/e. Still much easier and cheaper to find then a fully populated multi-av-connector you can solder to. Scart connectors unscrew, you know. They're easy maintenance.

>They would not be more expensive than the SCART cables because you wouldn't have to buy a SCART cable and separate cable to actually use the first cable you bought.
Big deal, so your first cable costs 2 cables' worth, then after the startup there's no big diff.
I bet yo the sellers would find some "high quality" screw to multi-av to BNC cables if they did them to raise the price...
Meanwhile you can get cheap-ass china SCART cables, if you're willing to compromise.

[Anonymous No.3311885]

>>3311565
Any help with unsquiggling? Anybody unsquigglified their monitor before?
It's the good old brighter == wider phenomenon just rather extreme.

[Anonymous No.3311889]

>>3311874
>cheap-ass china SCART cables
At that point, just go s-video. Cheap cables are the ones that start introducing all kinds of issues. Surprising, I know.

[Anonymous No.3311896]

>>3311889
that's why I said, if you're willing to compromise. if you want good cables you have to pay a little bit more of course.
then, I've been lucky with cheap-ass china cables also. they're not all bad.

[Anonymous No.3311904]

>>3311889
That's why I said, if you're willing to compromise. if you want good cables you have to pay a little bit more of course.
Then, I've been lucky with cheap-ass china cables also. they're not all bad.

In fact, I've had much worse luck with S-Video cables. Shitty S-Video cables really destroy the picture, while with shitty RGB cables it's usually not too bad. Maybe some buzzing and some ghosting at most.

[Anonymous No.3311919]

At least for SCART there is gscartsw switch you can purchase, and price is reasonable. Meanwhile Extron RGB switches cost like 400 USD just to ship. Unless you live in the US of course.

[Anonymous No.3311948]

>>3311662
>yet I was never a fan of the playstation...
I respect that. I have some 80s sony audio gear that I like, but between suing George Hotz for using the PS3 as a proper computer and the time Sony put a rootkit on its audio CDs in the name of preventing piracy, I no longer respect Sony.

[Anonymous No.3311950]

>>3311885
You will have to improve high voltage regulation - Sorry, I have no idea how that's done. That's the main reason I like pro monitors, not the line count, but the HV regulation.

[Anonymous No.3311973]

>>3311950
Yeah... I really wish we had TV repairmen here in Europe, they're practically inexistent here. While in the US you seem to get people that still gladly fix old CRTs.

[Anonymous No.3311980]

>>3311973
Thankfully there does for now seem to be an old guard of repairmen and shops who were servicing TVs since before flat panels took over and have the knowledge and equipment to work with CRTs. I don't know if it'll last though, as they grow old and retire you'll probably be hard pressed to find TV repairmen here at all since it's become much more commonplace to replace TVs instead of having them repaired.

[Anonymous No.3311990]

>>3311980
Meanwhile in Europe we've basically been replacing them since like forever.

[Anonymous No.3311997]

>>3309078
is this an ideal setup? someone on facebook posted this and I might be looking to set up a similiar one if it is.

[Anonymous No.3312002]

>>3311358
Dreamcast for example. Other examples also but that's the "big one".
>>3311523
>I'm lazy so I use garabge cables
Honest about it I guess, so that's something.
>>3311919
JP21 has had excellent switch boxes since the 90s.
Extron matrix switches are dirt cheap if you're not 3rd world. Only issue is sound input.

[Anonymous No.3312025]

>>3311859
>I could barely tell when I tried with and without before
If you can tell any difference at all whatsoever then your switch is shit

[Anonymous No.3312028]

>>3311997
>TV as a computer monitor.
fucking sick

[Anonymous No.3312074]

So when can we fuck scart off? Why aren't more people making Component cables for retro consoles since they are still pretty universal on all modern tv's and every region. At least the retrovison guys are trying but I think they only make a Snes and Genesis cable at the moment.

[Anonymous No.3312092]

>>3312074
Costs money. No good cable stock for it either. Unless you just want generic RCA cable.

The issue of the console connectors also.

So unless you want to do destructive mods the best bet is mini coax with JP21. For the cable lengths that 99% of enthusiasts use it doesn't matter much as long as they're some kind of coax. Sub like 10ft you wont see or hear a difference between some decent no name coax and any Belden or Canare solution. Assuming everything is wired up correctly. You couldn't use those cable either without destructive mods for some consoles. And the console they could fit it would be pointless to go that far out of your way and not use cables that were terminated on BOTH ends with 75ohm connectors.

Really the best thing you can do is dump scart if you're using some premade solution. Getting rid of the power wire is the biggest upgrade you could do for your cables before buying brand new cables.

[Anonymous No.3312107]

>>3311896
>that's why I said, if you're willing to compromise. if you want good cables you have to pay a little bit more of course.
then, I've been lucky with cheap-ass china cables also. they're not all bad.
why was this deleted?

[Anonymous No.3312118]

Recently got a pvm and some scart meme cables and it's amazing looking.

[Anonymous No.3312119]

>mfw I finally find a Trinitron VGA monitor at the local dump
>mfw I turn it around and realize that someone has cut off the VGA cable.

Fucking scrappers.

[Anonymous No.3312231]

>>3312119
The VGA Cable or the VGA Input?

[Anonymous No.3312276]

>>3312119
If it had a captive cable it wasprobably crap anyhow.

Scrappers are still utter junkie cuntflaps though. Fuck them.

[Anonymous No.3312317]

>>3312276
nah that isnt a crap indicator

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3312319]

>>3311593
>>3311859
>>3311459
I also have one of those switches.
I don't see any visual drop in quality, but boy does it make any audio buzzing considerably worse.

>>3311543
>route from Line A/B to Ext sync on my PVMs, so I only need to switch the channel to use composite (almost as convenient as a SCART TV, which will do the switching for you)
I was doing something like that for my SNES for a minute, but stopped because the only sensibly sized RCA cable I had laying around is completely shit and was giving weird grounding issues if there wasn't a system turned on and sending a signal through.

[Undesired Life No.3312331]

>>3311365
What? Youve lost me. Im simply asking if I could use the YPbPr inputs as a passthrough for Y/C my concern was the voltage differences in the too signals such that the voltage of C is much lower than Pb/Pr so it may not pick up the signal properly. If the A/V receiver does any processing to the signal i realize this wouldnt work, but if its just a straight passthrough from input to output it possibly would if the signal voltage of C isnt too low for the Pb/Pr to transmit.

[Undesired Life No.3312349]

>>3312331
In addendum forgot to say the output from the a/v receiver would then input to an s-video Y/C input on the tv of my choosing.

Im not trying to put s-video into a component input on a tv.

[Anonymous No.3312359]

>>3312319
yeah, I've figured the switch was partly at fault for that. still, I'd rather have it than not. recently I've tried routing the sound from the break-out RCA port instead, it's slightly better.

[Anonymous No.3312373]

>>3312074
If you're meaning YPbPr by component almost no consoles pre 6th gen has that, you'd need transcoding which would increase price by a whole lot.

Unless you mean RGBs component, which I also wonder why it doesn't exist premade. Would make a lot of sense the day I finally get an extron switch. For now SCART works OK.

[Anonymous No.3312469]

>>3311398
Who gives a shit?

[Anonymous No.3312860]

>>3311565
That's unlikely to be HV, probably either a cap issue or less likely a grounding issue. And a PVM certainly isn't the easiest place to start when it comes to CRT repair. If you're desperate, try replacing all the electrolytics in the horizontal output section first, and see what happens. Get the service manual and figure out which sections are the horizontal bits, and read the cap values off the parts list.

As for dying, just make sure you know how to discharge the set properly before doing anything.

[Anonymous No.3312936]

>>3312074
>Component cables for retro consoles since they are still pretty universal on all modern tv's and every region
Yeah, only for an LCD you'll find that component makes little to no difference over composite at 240p/480i. Maybe with some sort of upscaler in it... which would fuck /crt/ over yet again :)

[Anonymous No.3312941]

>>3311719
http://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1258035746

[Anonymous No.3313092]

>>3311997
>Left side set up USKOC
>A fucking X Arcade controller

I bet this fag lord also has a Desktop Arcade Popn controller.

[Anonymous No.3313156]

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/zip/5650350839.html

Found this Mitsubishi model CS-31205 near by, wondering if anyone knows about quality on these?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6QPWUoOP3g

that came up with a google search, pretty horrifying imo

[Anonymous No.3313171]

>>3313156
That thing is fucking massive. It'll probably weigh over 100kg. If you pick it up be sure to bring some strong mates.

From the video looks like it only has composite and svideo input with no rgb or component option but you won't find much else that size around so if it's the size you like then go for it. S video can still look decent.

[Anonymous No.3313191]

>>3313171
thanks for the input, there are usually a lot of nice sets available in my area, and I already have a 14 inch pvm for singleplayer stuff so Im just kinda waiting for a "perfect" larger tv since I am in no hurry

I also found this http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/zip/5649036333.html
they havent told me the model number yet but I think by the pictures its 40-45 inches, which is fucking enormous. My family had one that size years ago and to get it up and down the stairs we had to use a dolly designed for moving refrigerators. Probably not happening again :(

[Anonymous No.3313196]

>>3311734
>I
lmao

[Anonymous No.3313208]

>>3312025
That's what I meant, I couldn't tell the difference.
Why do you have to interpret it so literally?

[Anonymous No.3313238]

>>3309078
Well shit. First time I've ever heard a capacitor POP and hiss and kill my tv. Watch out for cheapo knock off brand vcr small tv. I was gonna watch some vhs tapes on it but now its ded. rip

[Anonymous No.3313242]

>>3313238
>First time I've ever heard a capacitor POP and hiss and kill my tv.
Try replacing it.

[Anonymous No.3313243]

>>3313242
I guess but what a pain in my ass.

[Anonymous No.3313254]

So I'm looking at getting a component video switch because I'm tired of fumbling behind the TV to unplug and plug in different consoles. My question is:

Is there a difference between a passive switch that just has a physical thing I can switch to change inputs and one that is powered when it comes to signal quality?

Say this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XCM-3-in-1-out-Component-AV-Selector-Switch-YpBpR-Video-/261100516844

vs this https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-103027-4-Port-Component-Learning/dp/B001TK9SEE

[Anonymous No.3313447]

Have some hot witches

[Anonymous No.3313627]

>>3312107
>why was this deleted
forgot to add a sentence, and didn't want to spam so made a new post and deleted the old
>>3311904

[Anonymous No.3313636]

>>3313447
what game is that? Some PC-Engine?

[Anonymous No.3313643]

>>3313636
The game is Gaia Master: Kamigami no Board Game for PS1. It's JP only but you don't need to understand any to be able to play it since it's simple enough. There's a FAQ that covers all the details of cards, gameplay, and characters.

Great fun with friends or family, a game lasts about 45 minutes to an hour.

[Anonymous No.3314243]

Amiga 1080 here. I figured I'd budge on the RGB cables for this and just get a guy I know at a local game store to make me a cable. Only consoles I want RGB from are SNES, Genesis, Saturn, possibly N64 if I ever get it modded. I'm not getting any Saturn games any time soon, so many main focus at the moment is SNES/Genesis. I've looked into it and I saw some threads about custom cables from Genesis to the 9-Pin D-Sub RGB input on the same monitor, and it seems simple enough but the people I saw were debating sync issues. Will there be any? Someone said it was as simple as pin to pin connecting and just wanna make sure. I have a model 1 Genesis btw. Would it be just as simple for SNES?

[Anonymous No.3314460]

>>3314243
you shouldn't use genesis sync pin as-is, sometimes it works, sometimes not.
Either use composite line or wire it as the rgb bypass does (console pin 7 is wired directly to VDP csync).
also remember that MD/Gen din socket is the "U" shape kind, not the more common "C" shape.

[Anonymous No.3314526]

>>3314243
>>3314460
and you do need caps and resistors on the RGB lines too.

[Anonymous No.3314576]

n64 mod is easy as fuck

...hmm, well, easy as fuck if you've soldered before, definitely. I mean taking apart and reassembling the console takes longer than the actual mod itself, and the parts are only $15 on ebay for a premade board. (you can go cheap as fuck and dead-bug it but that takes more skill/hassle, probably not worth it unless you're a former EE tech hobo)

Anyone capable of making you a custom cable is almost certainly capable of modding it for you, it's literally 12 through hole pins (retarded piss easy) + 6 lap solder joints. If you're bros with the guy, just bring in the motherboard + parts and pay him $25 for the mod. The soldering is literally a 5-minute job, he makes some neat tax-free bank, and you still end up paying way less with less risk than some sketchy ebay mod service or $200 ebay scalper price for a premodded rgb N64.

Where are you located, geographically (roughly)? Mite b down to spread the rgb gospel if you're near me

[Anonymous No.3314579]

Can I build a HTPC that directly outputs 240p over YPbPr component for emulating on a US consumer CRT television?

[Anonymous No.3314690]

>>3314579
There are graphics cards that have TV Multi out ports that allow you to connect composite, svideo, and component out of the port, but I believe that those cards use a scaler on chip to display on the TV and have lag.

The only lagless way would be with a transcoder and you won't be able to fit one internally in a HTPC.

[Anonymous No.3314708]

>>3314690
>The only lagless way would be with a transcoder and you won't be able to fit one internally in a HTPC.
you can fit a graphics card in an HTPC if you get the appropriate case and/or low profile card

or you can use a downscaler.

[Anonymous No.3314710]

>>3314708
I mean, the transcoder that converts RGBHV to YPbPr won't fit inside a HTPC, the graphics card could but to transcode to his preferred signal would also require another box or unit.

[Anonymous No.3314721]

>>3314690
How does the Wii manage it? It's smaller than most HTPCs.

[Anonymous No.3314735]

>>3314721
Because it was designed to output 15khz or 31khz (for 480p) to a TV, whereas your average graphics card was only designed to output progressive signals, with maybe a less than stellar transcoder chip built in so you could plug your computer into your TV to watch movies on.

[Anonymous No.3314736]

>>3314721
The graphics chip in the Wiii is designed to output resolutions at certain frequencies over different analogue video signals. It's how all consoles are, they don't scale the resolution or convert the output from digital to analogue. They don't display a PC resolution then scale it and convert it to component or whatever you think.

PC graphics cards won't do that without software like CRTEmuDriver and even then it'll only output RGB and not component. They're designed for PC frequencies and signals. Cards that do have component, composite, or svideo outputs have a built in scaler so that any PC resolution displays correctly on the TV but scalers have lag.

[Anonymous No.3314737]

>>3314721
the raspberry pi is a little bit stronger than the wii if you can figure out how to get 240p out of it (its been done)

[Anonymous No.3314740]

>>3314737
I know there are a few HDMI -> VGA converters that will output 240p RGB if you give them the right modelines

[Anonymous No.3314743]

>>3314737
hdmi_mode=8

will set your raspi to display a 240p signal over HDMI, but converting a digital HDMI signal to an analogue signal will add lag. See https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/config-txt.md

[Anonymous No.3314749]

>>3314737
>its been done

Not without external boxes it hasn't.

[Anonymous No.3314756]

>>3314737
>>3314740
>>3314743
What would it take to convert the RPi's 480i composite out signal into a 240p composite signal? That'd be simpler than a HDMI converter, wouldn't it?

[Anonymous No.3314893]

>>3314756
It would take a deinterlacing circuit and scaler, and the output is still going to be composite, let alone how awful the raspi's composite would be. It would also introduce two large chunks of lag.

[Anonymous No.3315121]

>>3313254
Bumping this question for the day

[Anonymous No.3315446]

Does anyone know which of these two monitors are better? I want one for playing ssbm in 480p. Thanks in advance for any help. http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/ele/5621509150.html

[Anonymous No.3315478]

>>3315446
Did you check if the models even support 480p? Most PVMs don't, RGB is 240p. Best thing to do is to look up the manuals then bring something to test them with when you collect.

[Anonymous No.3315486]

>>3315478
Thanks for the tip, they're not the right resolution. Apparently I want an HR model.

[Anonymous No.3315518]

>>3314893
are you absolutely positive?
It seemed like some people figured it out without using a de-interlacer from what i read
>>3315486
if you want to play 480p games get a multiformat crt monitor, a pc crt monitor, or an HD CRT

[Anonymous No.3315535]

>>3315518
>are you absolutely positive?
The raspberry pi's firmware only allows NTSC, PAL, NTSC-J, and Brazilian PAL signals. It cannot output 240p through composite. This is not something anyone can change unless they're a Broadcom engineer who knows the secrets to the Pi's GPU and writes a new firmware.

>>3315518
>It seemed like some people figured it out without using a de-interlacer from what i read
Where have you read this? Are they claiming composite video out at 240p and are you certain it's not a converted HDMI 240p mode?

[Anonymous No.3315568]

>>3314893
You could probably do it with next to zero lag though. Display a line-doubled image on the RPi and then you just need to fiddle with the sync a bit. Would still look like shit though because RPi composite.

[Anonymous No.3315571]

>>3312860
Thanks. Now to figure out where I can find the service manuals.

[Anonymous No.3315572]

>>3314243
>>3314460
>>3314526
Any other things I should know?

N64 through S-Video

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315601]

>>3312469
>Who gives a shit about distortion of the screen that varies from scene to scene?
A lot of people here and anyone who wants a picture to be displayed as it is sent.

>>3311686
Five hours by bike to make a round trip. The bus system here's a joke.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315607]

>>3312331
Oh okay, yeah, most devices won't care when it comes to passthrough.

>>3311637
>And there is literally nothing wrong with sync from composite, even without a stripper.
Except that's literally wrong. The entire picture will slide left and right when intensity changes.
example from quick youtube search:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRmiZ06x6Kg

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315662]

>>3314460
That's totally over-engineered.

Everything I've ever tried has accepted TTL level sync, so I use a 7408 (74ls** or 74hc** would also work) as a buffer. Any other 74xx logic chip would also work as long as it's non-inverting at the output.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315668]

>>3314243
>Forgot to put (you) in that reply.

Anyway, some monitors will sync to the genesis as-is, but a lot won't. The other anon's solution is probably more standard-compliant but TTL sync is unlikely to hurt anything. And it's far easier.

[Anonymous No.3315672]

>>3315662
>2 resistors, 1 cap
>over-engineered

[Anonymous No.3315680]

>>3315607
>quick youtube search
>links it's own video
pathetic

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315696]

Sync buffer diagram of sorts

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315703]

>>3315680
It came up in the results on page one, due to google tracking. ;)

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315717]

>>3315672
That might not be able to drive csync on a TV from the csync output on the DIN, since he's wanting to use custom cables. IIRC that thing you posted is pulling signals straight from the video encoder and using the meme RGB amp that 'makes everything better because the RetroRGB guy says so".

Anyway, yes, there are 3 components. If you have them on hand but not a logic IC, go ahead.

[Anonymous No.3315720]

>>3315717
learn2read

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315737]

>>3314460
>>3315717
Oh, nope, actually this is for if you are hooking it straight into the VDP, bypassing an encoder.

Sorry about the misunderstanding.

Might work, but I'm definitely not bothering.

source(in german):
https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Thread/14691-Mega-Drive-Mod-Platinen-RGB-Bypass-Switchless-Mod-Mega-Amp/

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315762]

So I popped open my genesis and had a look - the csync on the DIN comes straight from the VDP with _exactly what this diagram shows_ minus the final 75 ohm resistor.

The VDP's csync is an open collector signal, so this circuit would pull too much current from the VDP and cause the chip to behave erratically when used with some monitors (such as my PVM's. My panasonic runs fine straight from the original csync line, but ONLY IF I turn off termination and effectively make it's csync line into a digital input).

If your TV isn't coping already, this circuit probably won't help. If you add the 2.2kohm resistor and cap to the push-pull output of a logic IC, you could get a 1Vpp sync signal that will actually drive a TV.

[Anonymous No.3315778]

I need help fellas. This isn't a CRT specific issue but just a TV issue in general. I just got a Seiken Densetsu 3 English copy in the mail today and immediately hooked the game up to my SNES but the picture has a huge static issue except for a thin strip that goes down vertically and it is very apparent and annoying. Anyone ever have something like this happen to a game of theirs or got any idea on how to fix? The game plays normally I just passed Astoria right now. The pic isn't the best quality so I bet none of you will see anything whatsoever but just in case.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315819]

alternately you could add this instead of a logic IC. Probably just the last two transistors and last resistor (last being the furthest to the right, if you're going inside the console to pull from the VDP. Then add the 2.2kohm resistor and cap to the output of this and it'll give you proper sync that can actually handle a load.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315831]

>>3315778
I'm not sure what you mean, so yeah, an actually good pic would be helpful. That's way overexposed.
You aren't referring to this vertical line, are you?
(someone else's pic; I've never encountered it myself)

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3315835]

>>3315819
forgot pic.

[Anonymous No.3315853]

>>3315831
Yes that is exactly what I am talking about. In the exact same spot even! Sorry for the pic don't have any good camera lens to get a good quality. Took another with the lights off.

[Anonymous No.3315878]

>>3309431

Ok, I'm throwing this away then. Can't say I didn't try to get rid of it.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316303]

>>3315878
Yes, you tried for a whole day.

But really, you know people want them and you're that eager to throw it away/that impatient? Damn.

At least try craigslist and don't try to guilt us into picking it up with that pic.

[Anonymous No.3316349]

>>3315762
>>3315819
So what's the consensus on the cable? Resistors and caps or no? Should I tell the guy making my cable these specifics?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316352]

>>3315853
I've never had this issue myself, but if you're using RGB, apparently using an alternative RGB amp fixes a lot of the issue.

If you aren't using RGB, a thread on assemblergames proposes a fix that sounds feasible to me, though I'd agree with most of the responses that something like 100-220uf is preferable to the 470uf ones he used.

>I used 470 uf caps but smaller ones might just do. Using bigger caps did not seem to have any additional impact.

>I put one on the regulator output and one on the Video Encoder +Vcc.
>Negative end of both caps goes to ground.
>You do not even need to remove the motherboard to do it.

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/snes-vertical-bar-quick-and-easy-fix.48413/

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316364]

>>3316349
I can say that the resistors plus caps MIGHT work. I can assure you that a buffer (like a 74ls07) WILL work on every RGB monitor I've ever tried, but some SCART devices (like that RGB SCART to YPbPr converter someone posted earlier) won't unless the sync signal is 1Vpp. Adding the resistors and capacitor to the output of the buffer should satisfy everything, I think. If not, it shouldn't be too hard for the guy to remove the resistors and caps and try it, or remove the buffer and try it.

TL;DR put the resistors and cap on the output of the buffer.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316372]

>>3316364
Oh, and note that a 74LS08 with both inputs on a gate bridged is the same as a 74LS07 functionally. That's why my diagram uses a 74LS08 - I didn't have a 7407 available.

[Anonymous No.3316373]

>>3316352
Gonna guess that retard left those caps flapping in the breze? No idea why he soldered to the RF sheild ground plain either. Multiple spots to solder to ground there.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316395]

>>3316373
No, he says on the page it was a temporary setup.

And ground is ground, no matter where on the board it is, if all the chips on the board share the same ground level.

My RGB capacitors (DC offset removal) are literally flapping in the breeze because i didn't glue it down or anything. It just floats inside the case between some screw posts. See >>3311635.

Pic largely unrelated, it's an older pic of an AV mod power/video board for my famicom.

[Anonymous No.3316402]

>>3316395
>And ground is ground,
Shitty mentality to have but on consoles yes.

We already know you rejoice in your hackjobs.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316447]

>the raspberry pi is a little bit stronger than the wii
No, it definitely isn't. ARM11 cores are FAR weaker than the wii.

Unless you mean stronger in that it can output more types of signals?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316451]

>>3316402
It's not true on an average CRT, I know. ground is relative. But shared on every console I've seen.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316457]

>>3316402
Technically the parallel capacitors each have smaller individual margins of error, so I'm getting closer to 220uf with those parallel caps than a typical single 220uf electrolytic would.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316465]

>>3313191
Get it before a scrap merchant does if you want a large screen. Anyone able to confirm what the inputs on a 40" mitsu would be? Is it a presentation monitor (which'll probably have RGB)?

That's one of the largest direct view CRTs ever produced, I think. (yes I know about that one 500TVL or whatever PVM that people here drool over, too)

[Anonymous No.3316485]

>>3316451
I'd more concerned on console with creating ground loops with that mentality of ground is ground.

And just my opinion but I'm against destructive mods. RF shields having to be removed is about the limit.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316513]

>>3316485
Ground loops occur when you have a device on a different ground than another device in the circuit. As I was talking about consoles specifically where this is not an issue, I fail to see why you bring it up.

I draw the line at things that ruin the aesthetic of the console in normal use, like drilling holes in the side of a case. I regretted that on o e of my Famicoms and haven't done it since. Holes on the back are fine though.

[Anonymous No.3316541]

>>3316303

I've actually had it on craigslist for about a week. No takers. Not a single email actually.

[Anonymous No.3316546]

>>3316513
It's very easy to add a ground loop when doing AV mods.

[Anonymous No.3316564]

>>3311652

this 20L5 guy seems a dick right guys

[Anonymous No.3316621]

>>3316564
Yes
The local contrarian with freshman engineering-tier advice

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316703]

>>3316541
nothing sells on craigslist in a week. You're impatient.

Just don't let the motherfucking scrappers get it.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316709]

>>3316546
Explain where it'd be easy to add a ground loop.

Note that I do always solder it to a point that the original video circuitry used as ground or somewhere nearby that a continuity tester has verified is continuous. But I have yet to create a video ground loop when my console and anything it attached to shared the same outlet.

[Anonymous No.3316713]

>you're impatient

[Anonymous No.3316716]

>>3311652
>I
>me
Why do you care so much about yourself and your image? You can just be anonymous and none of that matters. Stop being a faggot.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316717]

>>3316402
>ground is ground.
The context that I originally had that in, before you removed all context from it with a partial quote:
>And ground is ground, no matter where on the board it is, if all the chips on the board share the same ground level.

Shoukd have said 'all components' instead of 'all chips', but you should be able to understand the meaning.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316736]

>>3316716
Why do you care so much about what _I'm_ doing? You never provide any helpful or contributing information that I'm aware of. Maybe you post pics occasionally, maybe not. I don't know. But why does it bother you when I give advice so much?

Deriding others' advice is not a substitute for providing your own.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316747]

Also:
I was singled out as "free 20l5 guy" before I got spiteful and adopted the name. Yonpu can ignore me if you just see red whenever you see a name.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316757]

Also:
I was singled out as "free 20l5 guy" before I got spiteful and adopted the name. You can ignore me if you just see red whenever you see a name. I'll never bother you with my "free 20l5 guy freshman engineering" advice or "free 20l5 guy" pictures and you can live with your head in the sand, content.

[Anonymous No.3316805]

>>3316736
>Why do you care so much about what _I'm_ doing?
Because your trip shits up the thread by itself
>>3316736
>But why does it bother you when I give advice so much?
Because your trip doesn't add anything to your advice, it just makes you additionally act like a faggot because you're trying to to sculpt some idiotic "image" of yourself.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3316809]

>>3316349
Actually, ignore what I said about the 7407 - it's an open collector buffer. Use a 7408 or 74ls08 or 74hc08 with both inputs bridged.

[Anonymous No.3316815]

>>3316736
>Why do you care so much about what _I'm_ doing?
you put yourself on display with that tripfaggot shit
>You never provide any helpful or contributing information that I'm aware of.
>Deriding others' advice is not a substitute for providing your own.
calling ad hominems does not excuse your own bullshit

[Anonymous No.3316825]

>>3311997
OHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOOOOO

[Anonymous No.3316830]

>>3309078
a CRT with DVI. never seen or heard of this before. Can't remember TV brand name. should I pick it up?

[Anonymous No.3316858]

>>3316830
>digital
no

[Anonymous No.3316895]

>>3316736
>You never provide any helpful or contributing information that I'm aware of.

Hey, quit talking bad about anon. He contributes most of the content to these threads.

[Anonymous No.3316897]

How does it feel to know within the next 20-30 years CRTs will almost entirely cease to exist, and even well maintained CRT monitors will start to age so badly that they can't be adjusted/brightened any further?

[Anonymous No.3316906]

>>3316897
20 30 years? Already happening.

[Anonymous No.3316907]

>>3316897
nano machines will recoat insides.

[Anonymous No.3316973]

>>3316897
Not too bad when OLED is right around the corner
scanlines are overrated anyway

[Anonymous No.3317109]

>>3316897

I've got 10 stockpiled for this exact reason. Since I only use one at a time I should be okay. As far as I know the only things that will go bad sitting on a shelf are electrolytic caps, and those are easy to replace.

[Anonymous No.3317117]

>>3316364
I'm not planning on using SCART at all though, so should this even be a concern? The guy I saw on Sega-16 said he just wired everything pin to pin and it worked fine.

[Anonymous No.3317118]

>>3316364
I'm not planning on using SCART at all though, so should this even be a concern? The guy I saw on Sega-16 said he just wired everything pin to pin and it worked fine.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317138]

>>3317118
I'd not worry about anything but getting it buffered, then. a 7408 (or 74ls08 or 74hc08) with both inputs of a gate (ex. pins one and two) tied together does the trick.

I started fiddling with TV settings when an old Dr. Who episode came on. Didn't know PBS still aired them. Nice.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317154]

So is anyone else having trouble with recaptcha?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317170]

>>3316895
Oh, sorry, my mistake anon.

Why are you talking about yourself in the third person?

>>3316815
Doesn't excuse you for being a shitposter either.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317180]

[Anonymous No.3317181]

>>3313254
Someone's surely got to know the answer to this right? Bumping with pic unrelated.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317183]

[Anonymous No.3317189]

>>3317183
>>3317180
>>3317170
>>3317154
Nice retro video games!

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317193]

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317202]

>>3317189
Yep, they are nice, aren't they.

At least they're retro. I don't see you complain when people post anime. Unless you're that guy who claims we shouldnt have CRT threads.

This is my last pic anyway.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317209]

[Anonymous No.3317216]

>>3317209
>tfw no ツンデレ sage gf

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317230]

>>3317216
I have a few pics of her as a sage (and adult), but they're on another memory card and I'm gonna have to do some processing on the RAWs.

I know the feels though.
Actually, I might have posted one of the sage ruto pics earlier. Too hard to check on a phone.

[Anonymous No.3317248]

Finally got my GC gameboy player running in 160p, sub-frame latency

feels fucking COMFY.

I'm getting a bit of checkerboarding on S-video, well, I guess I have an excuse to buy some overpriced cables now.

I can provide info on how to set it up, the method I used uses a hacked wii. You con't even need the GC player disk.

[Anonymous No.3317261]

>>3317180
Sarah Jane is such a cutie, what eps are these? Mandragora?

[Anonymous No.3317264]

>>3317248
I would like to know how you set it up with a wii.
All the GB emulators ive seen for the wii dont offer the cool borders.

[Anonymous No.3317304]

>>3317264

Well, I used the wii to put the hacked save onto my GC memory card. I am playing the games on my Gamecube, through the GBA Player attachment that goes on the bottom.

The ultra-low and low-latency versions of the launcher I am using don't support the borders. Borders of any sort are a net negative to me, and right now I am playing fast platformers so I am not interested in the higher latency versions. It does seem like the higher-latency version supports the borders though.

Here is an overview of the launch process: I put the Wind Waker disc into my gamecube, and turn it on. I have the GBA Player attached on the bottom, with a game inserted. I have a GC memory card in the GC, which contains a hacked save file for Wind Waker, as well as the custom gameboy software (GBI). The game loads to the title screen as normal, and the exploit triggers a few seconds after I press 'start'. The "GAMEBOY" GBA bootup logo plays and then I'm in the game. The low-latency version I'm playing launches with a pillarboxed and letterboxed 240x160p resolution inside a 240p window, and does not have any sort of menu or anything like the original did IIRC.

Next post will have links to the downloads I used.

[Anonymous No.3317424]

>>3317304

Booting homebrew: http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.php?title=Booting_Homebrew

Gamecube Memory Manager: http://wiibrew.org/wiki/GCMM

Wind Waker Exploit: http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=3311

Game Boy Interface (GBI): http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2782

I'm having fun playing games so this will be a quick writeup, will only cover the 'gotchas'.

You need: Homebrew Channel on a hacked wii, (wii must be gamecube compatible), a gamecube memory card, an exploit game from the top link, and the gameboy player.

Launch the exploit game of your choice on your gamecube and create a save on the memory card. Put the memory card in the wii. Put GCMM on your wii's SD card. Choose "backup" of one of your existing saves on the memory card, this will create a folder on the SD card. Put the SD card into your computer and copy the appropriate hacked save for your region into the 'backup' folder. Pick the .gci for the version of GBI that you want and rename it to "boot.gci" , and copy it to the 'backup' folder. Use GCMM to delete the original save off the memory card and "restore" the hack save and GBI to the card. Put the GC mem card back in the GC and the gameboy game you want to play into the player. Trigger your exploit and you're in.

Gimme those (((you)))s

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317501]

>>3317248
You mean 240p with borders right?

I highly doubt your CRT copes well with 160 lines per field.

Congratulations at any rate.

>>3317261
I missed the title card at the beginning - Wikipedia makes it look like "The Brain of Morbius".

I agree, Sarah Jane a cute.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317505]

>>3317424
>gimme those ((you))s
(you)

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3317569]

Just stumbled onto an extremely informative webpage. It claims to be oriented to vectorscope tubes buta ton of the info is also relevant to other CRTs. It's making me want to figure out how to adjust anode voltage on my PVM - I think the 20L5 already does this to switch to higher-than-480i modes since the lines become a lot narrower.

http://www.jmargolin.com/xy/xymon.htm

[Anonymous No.3317860]

>I will never find a comfy 20" trinitron with rgb

[Anonymous No.3317910]

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yeKMo6mcAo

Sync this, Sync that. Jesus fuck why is RGB retro gaming so fucking complicated?

[Anonymous No.3317953]

>>3317910
learning stuff is fun

[Anonymous No.3318023]

>>3317860
>needing it to be a trinitron because the meme

[Anonymous No.3318031]

>>3318023
I love the meme

[Anonymous No.3318042]

Thoughts on https://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=629?

[Anonymous No.3318060]

This isn't necessarily CRT-related but I don't know where else I can ask this aside from making a new thread which seems pointless. Will the following setup work?:

Multiple RGB modded consoles with SCART cables-> gscartsw SCART switcher > Framemeister > LCD TV

[Anonymous No.3318105]

>>3318042
Not good

http://beocentral.com/beovisionle6000

[Anonymous No.3318264]

>>3316703

Is it worth scraping a CRT? Do they have a small amount of gold inside or something?

[Anonymous No.3318268]

>>3318264
pretty sure it's for copper mainly

[Anonymous No.3318302]

>>3318264
Very negligible amount of copper

it costs more money to dispose of them safely than the worth of the copper

[Anonymous No.3318303]

I am using a crt for my wii, a flat screen philips tv, real flat, and even in 240 p mode I dont notice scanlines. It looks great, but kinda looks like the sega 3d classics games on the 3DS. not like what people post here.

I wonder if I am doing something wrong, I choose 336 x 240p in retroarch

[Anonymous No.3318315]

>>3318303
I think you have an HD CRT (so no scanlines unless you use a filter)
In that case play in 480p mode because 240p on an HD CRT will cause lag (it's internally upscaling it to a resolution that the TV can use)

[Anonymous No.3318320]

>>3318315
no, it isnt an hd crt

I had my wii connected to a pc monitor, and I had to change to the wii from 480p to 480I in order to get an image. I think it may be working on 480I

[Anonymous No.3318323]

>>3318320
Are you using composite?

[Anonymous No.3318324]

>>3318320
country ? It might be a 100hz tv is you're in yurop

[Anonymous No.3318336]

>>3317860
>>3318031
I can tell you love the meme. But there are plenty of formidable RGB CRTs that aren't trinitrons.

[Anonymous No.3318347]

>>3318323
component cables, on a real flat (thats the name) philips tv, that cant do 480p
I am using retroarch on the wii
336 x 240 resolution
Ill see if I take some pictures

[Anonymous No.3318354]

>>3318347
guy who wrote this

this is how it looks on the fce ultra emulator

[Anonymous No.3318369]

>>3318354
Jesus christ those colours are shit.

Use retroarch nestopia and under 'core options' choose the canonical palette.

[Anonymous No.3318393]

>>3318264
Don't you dare.

Satan will rain acid down your throat.

[Anonymous No.3318438]

>>3318264
>>3318302
Crackheads will smash the neck off to get the copper yoke, and cut the cord off for it's wire, and they just leave the raped carcass in the alley as pollution is irrelevant to a hobo.

[Anonymous No.3318926]

>>3318354
Im not sure man
looks like a slot mask but most slot masks ive seen still had small scanlines whereas this doesnt at all.

[Anonymous No.3318985]

>>3318369
>Use retroarch nestopia

Don't be retarded. Nestopia's native interface supports custom palettes. Why you'd suggest running an already perfectly functional emulator through a bloated frontend is beyond all logic. Go shill somewhere else.

[Anonymous No.3319009]

>>3311652
You and your ego need to get a room.

[Anonymous No.3319031]

>>3315878
>>3309431
I *might* have a use for the H.Stat. I have a broken PVM-2730 (Aus version of the 2530) that needs one, but it otherwise fine. It's not the same part, but it might work, or it might not.

If no one else wants it, would you be comfortable opening the set, discharging the tube and disconnecting the H.Stat? I would then need you to mail it to Australia, of course.

In fact, if you have a meter and you're confident enough, I can tell you how to test the block for me, but that needs to be done while the CRT I working.

[Anonymous No.3319037]

>>3318985
Becuase the guy is using a Wii you fucking retard. There is no standlone Nestopia on Wii.

It's still the best option for running Nestopia on a CRT even on Windows, though.

[Anonymous No.3319127]

Took a few pics of my setup to show a coworker who is into old games, but doesn't know mame. I figured I would post them here too. And yeah, I didn't rotate Donkey Kong. Forgot it was tate until after the pics.

[Anonymous No.3319129]

>>3319127

[Anonymous No.3319134]

>>3319129

[Anonymous No.3319137]

>>3319134

[Anonymous No.3319264]

How are CRTs affected by the depth of their tube?

I know shallow CRTs are worse but what is worsened/compromised?

Convergence? Geometry? Black levels? Durability?

[Anonymous No.3319341]

I'm looking for the easiest cheapest way to combine syncs from RGBHV or something more powerful than the wii to output 240p for my BVM.

Any recommendations?
the wii simply does not cut it, and combining syncs sounds complicated or expensive.

[Anonymous No.3319362]

>>3319341
to combine syncs all you need is like a 100R resistor on each line, combine them, and then add a 100uF cap or so. Depending on the BVM, you might have to adjust those values a little bit, but the idea is to make them as high as possible and still get sync. Get a breadboard of ebay for like $3 for testing, and just shove components in.

>>3319264
I'd guess at deflection issues - so convergence, geometry and focus. They can be set right in the factory no doubt, but would probably wander more.

[Anonymous No.3319367]

>>3318336
I agree, I just find a sony tv next to a sony playstation comfy

[Anonymous No.3319385]

>>3319264
example of a slim tube tv
https://youtu.be/1IjbH_sDZXg

[Anonymous No.3319457]

Rescued this guy from the Free section on Craigslist, a Toshiba 14AF44. 15Khz only, has Composite, RGB, and Component. Geometry is a bit off and over scan is a bit much but once you're in a game you don't really notice. The picture is actually tack sharp, and convergence is spot on, i'm pretty happy with it. Only thing that bugs me is you need the remote to turn it to the video inputs. Luckily I have a Sony Remote Commander for all my CRT's.

[Anonymous No.3319490]

>>3319457
If you want to try messing with the overscan you can try entering the service menu. It's usually by holding both menu or OK buttons on the remote and unit. If you do end up changing things, take photos of their original settings so that you can always revert if need be.

[Anonymous No.3319495]

>>3319457
>has composite, RGB, amd component.
Bullshit.

[Anonymous No.3319498]

>>3319457
>Toshiba 14AF44
>>3319490
According to http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-direct-view-single-tube-crt-displays/593507-toshiba-14af44-14-tv-service-mode.html

>to go into the service menu, press the volume button all the way to zero at the front of the TV. While holding the volume button, press 9 on the remote control for about three seconds.

[Anonymous No.3319506]

>>3319495
Err, Composite, S-video, and component I mean. I had a long day.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319520]

>>3319490
On my toshiba 27A42 you enter the service menu by first turningthe volume to zero, releasing the volume button, thenpressing and holding the volume down button on the TV itself while holding the '9' button on the remote. Other keypad numbers will expose additional servicing stuff, but the actual menu is vol. down + 9.

If you can find the datasheet for the jungle IC in a given CRT it will tell you the combination. So will the TV's service manual, of course. But the jungle IC datasheets get really in-depth.

[Anonymous No.3319527]

>>3319498
Thanks anon, I was actually able to get a few things tuned out with that. Some of the adjustments don't seem to do anything, though i'm guessing the chassis was made to work with multiple sets, and some have more features than mine.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319532]

>>3319527
A lot of them have very subtle effects. It'd be best to make note of what the default values are. Also, the service manual and jungle IC datasheets will provide a LOT of info on what does what. And some of the menu entries are input-specific.

If you'd like to, I believe you'll be able to add RGB inputs pretty easily if you ever feel like opening the TV up, using the jungle IC's analog RGB inputs. On my 27A42 I plan to whenever I finish getting convergence as good as possible (gonna have to move the yoke... not gonna be fun.)

[Anonymous No.3319536]

>>3318354
Own any other 240p consoles? Hook one up and see how it looks

[Anonymous No.3319541]

>>3319532
I'm not too worried about RGB with this one, S-Video is pretty nice on SNES and N64 and Component is pretty good on Wii. I only got it because it was free, I already have a few PVMs, Trinitrons, Panasonic monitors and various other CRTs.

[Anonymous No.3319542]

>tfw bought a ps1 with a modchip
Should I stick with s-video or is scart a better choice?

[Anonymous No.3319546]

>>3319542
>is scart a better choice?
Don't fall for the scart meme.

[Anonymous No.3319558]

>>3319542
SCART RGB is a higher quality signal, but is harder to obtain and set up if you don't live in Europe.

[Anonymous No.3319689]

>>3319546
tell this anon how to make a custom BNC RGB cable for his ps1 or shut your fucking mouth.

[Anonymous No.3319714]

>>3319546
Hoo boy, you certainly fell for the "Don't fall for the SCART meme" meme.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319767]

>>3319542
RGB is a better choice, but if you're outside europe _SCART_ is not.

S-video will be fine, though; the jump from that to RGB is a lot more subtle than the composite/RF -> S-video jump.

[Anonymous No.3319770]

>>3319689
Or he could fucking google it. Teach a man to fish

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319784]

>>3319558
>SCART RGB is a higher quality signal
Please don't needlessly throw a type of connector in when talking purely about signal quality; I know he said SCART, but as you're approaching it in terms of signals and picture quality it is irrelevant and can come across as
>SCART RGB is better than other RGB
Which is definitely not true unless your other RGB signal is going through 20 feet of cable (picking up reflections snd interference) where your SCART is travelling 5.
</rant about SCART not being synonymous with RGB>

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319791]

>>3319689
1) take first party AV cable, or third party one with all pins populated.
2) crack open mukti-AV connector,
3) solder wires from a shielded cable to corresponding pins on AV connector (google it; pinouts.ru) - cat6 cables may work well for this.
4) crimp or solder BNC or RCA or whatever connectors on the other end.
5) if your console needs external compoments in the cable (a la SNES), add them in the multi-AV connector end, or put a little PCB junction box in your cable.

Alternately drill holes in your console and add jacks.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319796]

>>3318985
FCEUX is also miles less accurate and has LOTS of problems with emphasis bits which are apparent in games like FF3 when battles start. Don't recomment an inferior emulator core to him.

[Anonymous No.3319797]

>>3319770
You were saying?

someone make a copypasta to use against these fucktards so we dont have to argue with their freshman engineering ideas more than once a day.

[Anonymous No.3319804]

>>3319797
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=ps1+bnc+rgb+cable+schematic works for me mang

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319805]

>>3319797
You were saying?

http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:playstationav

First result for "gamesx ps1" (the gamesx wiki has pinouts and details on what components you meed in cables, etc.)

You're going to have to understand what you're doing if you're trying to make a cable, don't expect it to be handed to you on a silver platter (although the gamesx wiki does that for you anyway).

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319818]

>>3319805
Oh and I knew about gamesx because I googled "snes multi av pinout" (without quotes) once on google images. It's not hard at all to find if you actually try.

[Anonymous No.3319820]

>>3319791
Is this more cost efficient than using scart for multiple systems provided you already own the scart to bnc breakout?

also from a layman's perspective
> solder wires from a shielded cable to corresponding pins on AV connector
you know with no information about this on the net coupled with an anon's inexperience with soldering that this wouldnt work out well at all right?
>crimp or solder BNC or RCA or whatever connectors on the other end.
most people dont know what you mean by 'crimp' and wouldnt this be very messy looking by any professional cable's standards?
>Alternately drill holes in your console and add jacks.
theres no guides for this on the dreamcast and many other systems

Scart is used because of convenience. It was already a common connector used for RGB before us manchildren were interested in it. It's a convenient place to put the sync stripper. BUT the MAIN reason scart is used because most people dont know how to solder AND even if they do, most people dont want to deal with the headache of making their own cable and having it look like MANGLED SHIT

>>3319805
>You're going to have to understand what you're doing if you're trying to make a cable, don't expect it to be handed to you on a silver platter
pssst can you figure out the reason why people dont want to make custom cables?
you just said it.

[Anonymous No.3319823]

does anyone know that if custom BNC cables started selling on ebay that people would buy them if they have professional monitors?
everyone seems to think we use scart because we just have a boner for it and theres no logical reason

[Anonymous No.3319827]

psssst when i said 'guide' i didnt mean spit a bunch of freshman engineering lingo littered with sarcasm

if you really want to push your anti-scart propaganda then supply guides in layman's terms on how to do this easily as possible

the average consumer ALWAYS uses what is most convenient

until you understand this, your anti-scart propaganda is just useless contrarion shitposting.

and guess what? i dont even own a scart cable

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319828]

and believe it or not you can use SCART wiring as a reference for RGB too.

[Anonymous No.3319830]

>>3319823
That is literally the only reason people use SCART outside europe.

[Anonymous No.3319831]

>>3319827
>freshman engineering
Oh, you're that guy. Everything's freshman engineering if it's not a premade SCART cable.

[Anonymous No.3319834]

>>3319820
>I need a guide, I'm 8 and have never used a drill before

[Anonymous No.3319835]

>>3319823
They'd probably sell, but even better would be creating a professional looking cable and opening a sale thread on all the big sites, assemblers, system11, neogeo, etc. People lap custom handiwork shit up, especially since many had large wallets and low technical skill to make their own.

>>3319827
>Doesn't know how to solder
>Expects to make custom cables from descriptions on a Vietnamese crochet bbs
SCART is for people like them, friendo. They can be the average consumer, no one really cares. In the end, owning expensive CRT monitors will require you to get your hands dirty if you don't have unlimited funds to keep buying new gear so I personally don't think it's too much for people to learn a little bit for their hobby. The resources are out there, and SCART will always exist for those who chose it.

[Anonymous No.3319839]

>>3319542
Stick with JP21. Far better cables available. No voltage line.
>>3319689
>BNC
Fucking pointless on its own.
>>3319791
Pretty shit advice since you would need to scavenge I think 2 (maybe 3) PlayStation cables for one RGB cable.

Fucking cat6? Really man. New level of hackjob tonight.

>>3319796
Don't get me started with you and paletes again.. Though I do agree.

>>3319820
If you have to ask don't bother man.

>>3319827
Not him. You can't use "laymen" terms when you talk about RGB. That just leads to missinfo.

Like telling people to just use csync. That is going to lead to problems.

[Anonymous No.3319840]

>>3319828
But 20L5 guy, I'm too retarted to understand what any of that is :(. When I Google I get results for mens lingerie, and I've never touched a soldering iron or even cut a wire before! You're just making things too hard for me!

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3319843]

>>3319820
>no guides for this on the dreamcast
If anything, that's the most likely console for you to see something like that for, if only for internalizing the circuit needed for activating VGA output.

[Anonymous No.3319846]

>>3319820
>no information on the net about how I would solder wires to a connector on each end
Are you five years old? Even eight year olds are smart enough to look this shit up if they want to do it. It's not arcane knowledge.

[Anonymous No.3319848]

>>3319839
Okay, I'll bite. Why would you need to scavenge TWO OR THREE PSX cables to make ONE RGB cable?
You're jyst using the cable for the plug. Use something like cat6 ethernet cable or cut-up VGA cable for the actual wires.

[Anonymous No.3319849]

>>3319835
>>3319834
I don't want to make my custom cable. what now?
You understand that right? I and the majority of this thread, don't want to stroke our e-cocks with the euphoria of creating our own cable.
I'm pointing out the flaws in your anti-scart logic
nowhere did i say that i personally wanted to solder my cable.

>>3319835
>no one really cares.
you obviously do because you tell the average consumers in this thread to make their own cable every chance you get
while contributing no easy way to do so.
>In the end, owning expensive CRT monitors will require you to get your hands dirty if you don't have unlimited funds to keep buying new gear
nothing about a CRT really requires soldering.
if they spent so and so much money on ebay or wherever those average consumers get theirs, they'd probably be able to shell out another 40 for cables.
>The resources are out there, and SCART will always exist for those who chose it.
your ego is too much for this thread

[Anonymous No.3319852]

>>3319840
see >>3319849

[Anonymous No.3319853]

>>3319848
What do you mean you'll bite dumbass?
Take your fat fucking brown fingers. Use those fucking porky stubs and look at the cable. You have to scavenge from multiple cables to have enough pins.

Neither of those cables are good.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3319856]

>>3319820
why would you already own a a SCART to BNC breakout if literally nothing in the US ever used SCART outputs and only a handful of devices ever offered SCART inputs?

Also, $30 for 3 or 4 feet of wire when I could get 4 10 foot lengths of RG6 coax for the same price? fucking stupid.

[Anonymous No.3319860]

>>3319853
I don't happen to have a first party PSX cable here right now. I assumed those were actually decent and fully populated.

Options exist if you actually look for them.

[Anonymous No.3319862]

>>3319860
Being decent has nothing to do with being fully populated. Waste of money to use pins that aren't even wired.

[Anonymous No.3319885]

>>3319791
>Alternately drill holes in your console and add jacks.

Threadly reminder not to fall for the "visibly fuck up the outside of your console for the sake of using BNC cables" meme.

[Anonymous No.3319949]

>>3319885
It can look fine. It's also the only way to get proper cables like that and actually achieve their purpose.

[Anonymous No.3319960]

[Anonymous No.3319962]

>>3319804
So I just draw this and I'm good to go?

[Anonymous No.3319995]

>>3319885 and >>3319949
agreed, it can look fine. also, some consoles do not provide RBG out on their AV connector, so you'd have to replace it anyhow, which is a whole other can of worms. i felt slightly bad modding my duo-r by adding jacks, but not for long.

[Anonymous No.3320214]

>>3319862
>Waste of money to use pins that aren't even wired.
A whole fucking penny, vs. a $20 markup SCART cable.

[Anonymous No.3320231]

>>3319885
Yep, 20L5 guy definitely visibly ficked up this SNES and genesis.

Bullshit. They look pristine unless you prefer to play with the TV and console facing away from you. He posted it in >>3311386 - you can't even tell from this pic that they aren't 100% original. It's entirely a mental block for you.

How does it feel to be thick as a brick?
Stop being a cunt just because you like wasting money.

[Anonymous No.3320241]

>>3320231
Free20L5Guy, your posting style is so obvious -should've just left the trip on. Your posting style is why people singled you out in the first place.

Also, suggesting a BNC terminal cable over SCART? Fine, cool, that's no problem, good advice even. Suggesting you drill holes to permanently damage the exterior of your console when it isn't even necessary just to save what amounts to literally a few bucks? Now that's just straight up retarded.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3320253]

>>3320241
He's not me.
>>3320231
I did visibly ruin a famicom once and felt terrible about it. My second attempt where I replaced the RF modulator board doesn't have any holes drilled at all. Also I don't think he's thick - he probably just doesn't like the thought of drilling the holes. I was hesitant, but once I did it I was VERY glad I had done it.

If you don't want to drill holes, it'd be simple enough to replace the RF modulator on a SNES or genesis with a 6-pin mini-DIN (or 7, 8, or 9 pin) and use that for video out without drilling holes. That kinda forces you to make a breakout cable, but at least it's a standard connector that's harder to find unpopulated than populated.

Thanks for the support in any event. same for >>3319949 .

[Anonymous No.3320267]

mario

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3320271]

>>3319995
Yeah, if you only are working on the back panel of the console I've never regretted adding jacks.

I think I'm going to use a mini-DIN breakout on the back of my N64, since there's not very much room with the external power supply.

[Anonymous No.3320320]

Just going to leave this discrete transistor RGB amp for the N64 here and wait for someone to foam at the mouth about not using the THS7314 meme.

[Anonymous No.3320326]

>>3320320
What are the benefits over using the THS7314?

[Anonymous No.3320346]

>>3319856
Its not 30 dollars.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3320358]

[Anonymous No.3320360]

>>3320346
>THS7314
>30 dollars

[Anonymous No.3320364]

>>3320360
>reading comprehension

[Anonymous No.3320365]

>>3320364
I admit, I brain farted

[Anonymous No.3320369]

>>3320365
'sall good

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3320375]

>>3320346
Last I checked they were.
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/games-consoles/nintendo/packapunch-super-nintendo-entertainment-system-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-gold-scart

I see some cheaper ones now; however the 12 pound SCART cable plus the redundant 15 pound SCART -> BNC cable is $36 USD when you do the conversion (27 pounds = $36).

If you bought the old primo hacked-up VGA cable, that'd be 44 pounds or $58 USD.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3320379]

>>3320326
The THS7314 is probably at least equivalent to (if not slightly better than) this circuit. I actually might try the discrete transistor method because I have all those parts on hand and I don't really like surfacemount.

[Anonymous No.3320515]

Is there ANY reason to use a curved CRT over a flat CRT?

Why would you want to miss out on corner details and view overscan along the edges?

[Anonymous No.3320529]

>>3320515
Better convergence.
Better geometry.

You can always shrink the entire raster in both axes if missing a few redundant mm in the extreme corners causes your autism to flare up that badly.

[Anonymous No.3320562]

>>3320515
I use a curved CRT because it works better with the NES zapper.

[Anonymous No.3320836]

>>3320358
CUTE
what's your setup?

[Anonymous No.3320889]

>>3319457
Anon from this post, was able to pull up the hour counter for this, Only has 5500 hours on the tube, so not too bad.

[Anonymous No.3320919]

>>3320320
Why would you use a more expensive, more complicated to build amp that performs worse?

[Anonymous No.3320926]

>>3320529
You can always cure your autism flaring by not pretending convergence and geometry are better on curved. Try smaller screen sizes. That is what makes curved better.

[Anonymous No.3320949]

Is there a service menu abbreviation list? I'm trying to fix the angle on a Toshiba 27a32 so it'll stop going off-screen on the top-left and I'd rather not twiddle with everything unless I have to.

[Anonymous No.3320957]

>>3320949
>Is there a service menu abbreviation list?
The service manual should have it.

[Anonymous No.3320982]

So larger CRTs have worse geometry, convergence, and focus?

What is the sweet spot where you get the best balance of screen size and picture quality for CRTs?

Is this sweet spot different for flat, semiflat(trinitron), and curved CRTs?

[Anonymous No.3321001]

>>3320926
DEM GOALPOSTS BE A'MOVIN

We're discussing curved vs flat, not large vs small. Curved is, all other factors being equal, better.

Anybody, including the ancient Greeks, who knows the first thing about geometry would agree. It's simple physical truth.

Now how's that for autism eh?

[Anonymous No.3321017]

>>3320919
I sometimes think some posters on here do certain things simply to go against the flow and not listen to what everyone else (especially those damn YouTubers) says.

To be fair I know fuckall about the results of his method, so if someone can give a reason as to why it is better beyond it possibly saving some nominal amount of money I'd be glad to hear it.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321021]

>>3320529
aesthetic, easier to get good geometry and convergence.

[Anonymous No.3321032]

I don't think this is the right place but:

I wanna build a old rig to run 1992-2000 games, so what is the best build I can get? Should I install 98SE or ME? I already have a Pentium 4 and it's motherboard.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321047]

>>3321017
The THS7314 is probably at least as good. Possibly better.

Note that a lot of old game consoles used transistors for amplifying/buffering their video output. Also there's a very common RGB mod for the turbografx-16/PC engine that uses discrete transistors for amplifying RGB.

The NES and famicom use transistors for their composite video outputs.

Not necessarily better, but it'd do a pretty good job. Also, the S-video mod for the Genesis/MD consoles uses discrete transistors similarly to make the luminance signal capable of driving a TV's 75 ohm load. It's a very eidely accepted method of amplifying a video signal.

I want to emphasize that it's probably not going to be substantially different from a THS7314 in terms of output. The 7314 probably will still hold a slight advantage since it was designed for video applications and has a very nice slew rate. With the correct transistor, however, you could probably get it really close.

[Anonymous No.3321049]

>>3321017
One reason the ths7314 performs better than the discrete amp is that the transistors inside the chip are generally better matched than the transistors of the discrete amp. Same with the resistances. The chip also has less parasitic capacitance and inductance. The integrated circuit also has some nice extras little filters and clamping and uses less power.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321054]

>>3321032
>pentium 4
you won't be able to use a voodoo2 or voodoo3 3dfx card. That's unfortunatr. I'd have gone for a III.

And yeah, this is the wrong place.

[Anonymous No.3321062]

>>3321054
Thanks. Where I should ask that question?

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321063]

>>3321049
None of those will make very noticeable differences at SD frequencies. But they are all true, at least most of the time.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321065]

>>3321062
There's typically a PC games thread or "vintage computing thread" here or on /g/.

[Anonymous No.3321071]

>>3321065
Thanks again. Also, why I shouldn't be able to use a voodoo? My motherboard is a 478 with AGP ports

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321075]

>>3321062
also, 98SE (if you refuse linux), a Roland SC-55 for General MIDI (prior to ~1992 you'd want a MT-32), and if you wanna keep that board maybe a Nvidia TNT2.

Transistor-amplified s-video from my genesis.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321081]

>>3321071
chipset AGP voltages. Also the voodoo will physically not fit because the slot is designed to prevent out-of-spec cardss. Pentium III is as high as you can go with a Voodoo2/voodoo3.

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321089]

>>3321071
Since the graphics card at least is video-related I'll link to an article about the problem (it's concerning the voodoo5 but earlier cards are also impacted).

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2000/11/30/3dfx_voodoo_5_incompatible/

[Anonymous No.3321094]

>>3321075
>>3321081
>>3321089
Thanks yet again dude.

[Anonymous No.3321106]

Can someone identify this CRT (on left)? Is it any good?

[Free 20L5 guy !XqFtrbInoc No.3321115]

>>3321106
It's an LG.

Probably ok (IIRC flattron is a trinitron clone).

[Anonymous No.3321268]

>want a pair of small and nice speakers for the XC37
>go to the 2 pawn shops where they usually have speakers by the boatload
>nearly none on the shelves, all too big

of course

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3321420]

>>3321047
>Also there's a very common RGB mod for the turbografx-16/PC engine that uses discrete transistors for amplifying RGB.
A more recent "booster" version of that uses a CXA1645 instead so it can offer S-Video as well as amplified RGB.

>>3321268
I'll admit I'm using a small pair of Sonys with mine, but if they weren't in use elsewhere, I'd LOVE to pair it with my Klipsch KG4s.

I mean, you've already got the massive CRT: Go big or go home.

[Anonymous No.3321461]

>>3321420
>there's a newer mod using a CXA1645
Yeah, I know about that, vaguely. I don't have a PC engine though so forgive any misinformed remarks about it.

This mod (for the N64) should leave s-video and composite intact through the original encoder (ENC-NUS or whatever), I think.

A friend of a friend of mine has some really nice gold klipsch speakers. Even after repairing speakers for about a year, they blew me away.

I just have that old pair of Jensens from the 70s (Spectrum 540).

[Anonymous No.3321465]

>>3321017
You're 100% right for SCART. Still waiting for your technical explanation, freshman engineers.

[Anonymous No.3321473]

>>3314526
You don't need caps and resistors on the RGB lines on the genesis.

That said, if you are annoyed by having to turn down contrast, put resistors to ground. My genesis had no real DC RGB offset to speak of so the only thing 220uf caps would do is act as a low pass filter.

[Anonymous No.3321478]

>>3321420
the xc37 is already eating a lot of space, so I need to wallhang em, to a drywall so they can't be too heavy

[Anonymous No.3321487]

>>3321465
I have said many times a specialized IC for Standard definition video is going to work as well as or better than the discrete version.
Higher manufacturing tolerances on 'general-purpose' components are one very simple reason. The IC will have (somewhat) better quality control (lower tolerance) than the 5% resistors and general purpose transistors used in most discrete projects.

This difference will likely be negligible, but it is definitely going to exist.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3321489]

>>3321461
I don't have a PC-Engine either, I just find it interesting reading up on these things.

>should leave s-video and composite intact
It does; You're just amplifying an already existing signal and connecting it up to where it would have been had they chosen to offer it stock.

>>3321478
Makes sense. Not sure how you're planning to play on it, but you could hypothetically have them mounted or even just -sitting- on top of the monitor, assuming they're shielded/you don't mind making a spacer of sorts.

[Anonymous No.3321493]

>>3321489
I doubt I can find shielded speakers, they're getting rarer and rarer

[Anonymous No.3321510]

>>3321461
Looking at the MB3514 Datasheet (clone of CXA1145, the only 1145 datasheet's in japanese) says that RGB can be directly driven by the encoder. I agree with you.

[Anonymous No.3321717]

Anyone here have experience with having items internationally shipped from japan?
Looking at getting an AV famicom but the only seemingly reasonable prices are from japanese sellers.
The far and few US located sellers are throwing their rarity tax on and its ridiculous.

So my question is: is it safe/reliable?

[Anonymous No.3321726]

>>3321717
Yahoo auctions is highly regarded
with the new buyee thing you dont need a middleman to order from there

[Anonymous No.3321730]

>>3321726
Ive never used yahoo auctions before. Was more thinking along the lines of ebay but i can give Y.A. a look as well

[Anonymous No.3321742]

>>3321726
What is Buyee if not a middleman? They just plaster ads all over and I fear have made YJA so accessible to foreigners that any former price benefit will soon be completely eroded. Honestly, in the realm of games that I buy, I've found that I get better prices on ebay whereas a year or so ago it was definitely the other way around.

[Anonymous No.3321758]

>>3321742
Anon asking original question; so have you sucessly purchased itema from japan via ebay before? Any problems ever?

[Anonymous No.3321762]

>>3321758
*successfully
Wow my bad mobile keyboards are garbage. And my haste of not spell checking my post.

[Anonymous No.3321786]

>>3321758
I've purchased many items from Japanese ebay sellers since the early 2000s, items from Yahoo Japan since the mid 2000s or so. I think I may have had some items that were maybe minorly damaged in shipping in the past, but for the most part no.

[Anonymous No.3321796]

>>3321786
Alright that makes me feel better. Im just wary of international purchases. How is shipping time the typical 2-3 weeks?

[Anonymous No.3321812]

>>3321742
buyee is easier to use and cheaper than a proxy? or am i mistaken?

[Anonymous No.3321817]

>>3319031

>mail it to australia

Sorry man, local pickup only.

2 days left for anyone who wants it btw.

[Anonymous No.3321829]

>>3321796
I think I may have had a cracked jewel case, a CD that came loose in the case and got scratched, one item that does not appear to be working. and one seller who was a scammer on YJA. Overall, though, problems are minimal and nothing really related to the items coming from Japan. However, be warned that, while rare, you could potentially run into a racist YJA seller who will refuse to sell to a deputy service and either cancel your winning bid or block a deputy service from even bidding. Best way around this is to have a bidder who isn't a true deputy company but rather an individual in Japan who bids on your behalf. A bit of Googling can find such services.

I do not believe I have ever had a package lost or anything like that. As for shipping, it just depends on which method you choose. If you go EMS, it should arrive very fast. I used to order a lot of doujinshi (not games, sure, but still from Japan) which were shipped via airmal (or printed material airmail - I don't recall if there was something special for printed material or not) and they'd arrive in about a week. If you are ordering a small item with high value, probably best to just go with EMS since it is fast and I think has some degree of insurance and signature confirmation. Don't hold me to the insurance since, again, I've never had anything lost in transit regardless of method. I've had the slower shipping methods used a few times and I still received my items without issue. Once I had an international package take for-fucking-ever to arrive (maybe over a month, I think), but that wasn't from Japan (Netherlands, I think, but it was years ago so I don't have a clear recollection). Stuff purchased from overseas can get held up in customs for a bit, but I've never had anything seized. Keep in mind that this is from the perspective of a US buyer, so other countries might have issues with customs duties or something.

I did have a package of doujinshi inspected by Homeland Security once, heh.

[Anonymous No.3321848]

>>3321829
I should also note that, even if a seller on Yahoo Japan lists something as "junk," there is a definite chance that it works or will work with some cleaning unless the seller explicitly states that it was tested and found to be not working.

[Anonymous No.3321870]

>>3321829
>>3321848
Alright cool thanks. Yeah most ebay sellers from Japan offer EMS or SAL. Not too familiar with either but EMS does offer tracking while i dont think SAL does.

[Anonymous No.3321956]

NEC XP29 displaying something special.

[Anonymous No.3322051]

>>3320267
One of the few posts that are actually retro baka

[Anonymous No.3322246]

>>3321817
I'm happy to arrange payment for postage. If you're comfortable pulling out the H.Stat, that would be :)

[Anonymous No.3323034]

can anyone tell me their experiences with the GBS-8200 (or cga2vga) scaler?
How did it look and how was the lag?

[Anonymous No.3323303]

Looks like this was being discussed in the thread before but there was no clear answer. Anyway, I'm thinking of getting a cheap HD 4890 to use for crt_emudriver but the only outputs on it are S-video and DVI so how to get the best picture on a pvm with just rgb/component input? I guess I could use s-video because it looks like dvi to rgb bnc adapters are lacking.

[Anonymous No.3323312]

>>3323303
need something to combine the sync from DVI/VGA

that s-video output is 480i only iirc.

[Anonymous No.3323440]

>>3323303
You need a dvi to vga dongle, and a bnc cable and some way to combine syncs. You can either build a sync combiner, or buy an Extron rgb interface which will take in vga, and output bnc with many sync options. I always use the sync on green option so a 3 bnc cable works. Hope this helps. Btw I use the Extron 201 rxi, and it was $20.

[Anonymous No.3323494]

>>3323440
Thanks for the advice, I'll have to get one of those extrons, they look pretty nifty. So I'm guessing you can't just use one of these to combine syncs?

[Anonymous No.3324250]

>>3323312
This. Never use the S-Video port on a graphics card.

Also, if you're primarily interested in MAME, don't go the 4890. MAME doesn't use the graphics card save to output a video mode, your CPU does all the work. The 4890 needs 1x6pin and 1x8pin power plugs, and it's heavy. Something like a 5450 or a 6450 will be a bit cheaper, needs no external power connectors, and gives better interlaced video if you ever need it.

If you want to run demul or supermodel or whatever, then you might need the grunt. But a later card from the 5000 or 6000 series is better, and gives a cleaner signal.

[Anonymous No.3324443]

>>3323494
In some cases, but it's not the most professional solution and people say it could cause damage, and your monitor may not support it.

[Anonymous No.3324556]

So I'm picking up a Sony PVM-9041qm today for $50. Also comes with a porta brace carrying case. Any comments on this? I'm an American so I'm a little scared of this euro monitor

[Anonymous No.3324692]

Hey guys, might be getting one of those old commodore monitors that accept luma and chroma as separate RCA cables in the back sometime soon, is there any s-video cable adapter that can separate the two signals? Couldn't find anything just looking on amazon. Alternatively I guess it would be pretty easy to just take some composite cables I have lying around and solder the cables, is there any site that has guides on doing this and the pin-outs of the cables?

[Anonymous No.3324701]

>>3324556
IMO $50 is way too steep for a 9" monitor. That said it'd probably be fun to play gameboy games on.

[Anonymous No.3324706]

>>3324701
It does come with a porta brace though, I feel like that brings its value up. Originally the guy was asking $100.

[Anonymous No.3324750]

>>3324556
>>3324706
should be fine
PVMs support the different countries standards etc

[Anonymous No.3324758]

>>3324750
Phew thanks for the re-assurance.

[Anonymous No.3324936]

>>3323494
You might as well use the Extron, the one I mentioned has vertical and horizontal adjustments so you can adjust per game on the fly. It also has some other useful features and is built like a tank.

[Anonymous No.3324939]

>>3324250
I (the dude talking about Extrons) use a Radeon X600, they are plentiful and very cheap. I got mine for $6.

[Anonymous No.3324959]

>>3324939
Also, I recommend a Weiya CV-04 RGB to Svid/Composite converter if you want to use Svideo Tv's. This works well for mame because (to me anyway) Svideo is just as sharp, but only needs a saturation and tint adjustment to look as good as RGB, and you can get many old TVs with screens very similar to old arcade monitors. Some sharpness adjustment on the transformer in those old TVs will usually get you a very sharp picture. Yes, I've spent way too much time worrying about this shit.

Professional monitors are great and all, but they don't look like arcade monitors, and the scanlines are ridiculous on them.

[Anonymous No.3324991]

>>3324959
Honestly i like the saturation levels on s-video/composite
rgb may be the most accurate, but coming from composite it just looks too saturated for my preferences on a lot of consoles.
>>3324936
Sync on green (RGsB) never really worked properly for mine (image curling), just a warning

[Anonymous No.3325004]

>>3324959
Do you know of anything like this except instead of rgb to s-vid

but s-vid to component (not enhancing s-vid to component but just converting it) as my TV is composite or component only with no s-video

[Anonymous No.3325323]

>>3325004
No, but you could go RGB to component. I have the Audio Authority one. There are a couple others. Or you could get a different crt.

[Anonymous No.3325325]

>>3325323
I meant the Audio Authority VGA to Component transcoder. The 9A60A.

[Anonymous No.3325376]

Oi Free20L5guy, will the 20L5 take a 31kHz RGBS signal (VGA with combined sync) or does it only take 31kHz+ through component?


>>3324939
Well, cheap isn't always better. Just saying. And the interlaced video quality from a 5000 or 6000 series card will be much nicer. But that's not always a huge issue.

>>3324959
Depends on the PVM. Some of the higher spec ones look funny. But something like a PVM 2530 will look shit hot for arcade games.

[Anonymous No.3325406]

>>3324959
scanlines are an overrated youtube meme
the thin black lines on consumer trinitrons look much better imo

but BVMs are still good because of all the available adjustments unlike a PVM or consumer trinitron

[Anonymous No.3325410]

>>3325406
>Hey guys. Check out my google parroting skills.

[Anonymous No.3325417]

>>3325410
If i googled all i would is love for 800 line PVMs and 'scanline generators'

[Anonymous No.3325493]

>>3325376
If it takes 31Khz over RGsB im 99% sure itll take RGBs

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3325523]

>>3325376
Yes, as well as RGsB @31khz+.

[Anonymous No.3325587]

>>3309078
>TFW finally got RGB to work on my 13" JVC

Right now I have a SCART cable running from my Genesis to a SCART>RGB BNC cable running to the monitor.

Can somebody give me the rundown on getting a SNES hooked up correctly? I'm not sure what I'm going to need.

[Anonymous No.3325594]

>>3325587
snes outputs rgb natively except for the mini

[Anonymous No.3325636]

>>3325594
>.
I have a "EURO" SCART cable installed....am I going to screw anything up with a regular ebay tier SNES SCART cable? Isn't there some sort of difference between JP21 and Euro SCART?

[Anonymous No.3325771]

Okay so If I get an older card that will output an interlaced low res image and connect it to one of these Extron RGB boxes I will be able to display 240p/480i on a consumer 15kHz television?

I think I understand but what is the recommended way to hook the Extron up to my component inputs? Never dealt with RGBHVS or BNC before

[Anonymous No.3326186]

>>3325523
TY, Kya

>>3322246
I'll take that as a no, you're not comfortable?

[Anonymous No.3326191]

[Anonymous No.3326193]

>>3326191
>grail
>31khz max
not really

[Anonymous No.3326220]

So I got a few pro monitors and I want to use 240p test suite to calibrate everything.

Should I only be running the source to each monitor individually or is it fine to daisy chain a bunch of these monitors to one another's outputs to calibrate them all at once? I have like 6 of these things to test out, so that would make it easier.

[Anonymous No.3326225]

>>3326220
Should be fine, when you make adjustments you won't actually be altering the video source, just how each monitor displays it. There may be signal degradation after going through multiple input/outputs, should be fun to test for. Take pictures if you can.

[Anonymous No.3326243]

>>3326193
45", rgb, 480p, was the most expensive tv in the world and are most likely extinct. for you it may not be but for me it is. I'm a size queen

Here's my tv

[Anonymous No.3326247]

>>3326243
1. It's not a tv as no tuner

2. Pretty sure the HDM-3830 has it beat on most expensive crt monitor

[Anonymous No.3326267]

>>3326247
"The most expensive television set ever sold - the PVM-4300 - looms above three paltry, conventional TV sets on the left side of the central aisle as you enter the Abt showroom.

The price tag dangles casually in the upper right hand corner of the monitor - $39,999. The price is firm, Gordon said. No dickering. But he will throw in the optional speakers and TV-tuner unit."

oem options don't count? That's a neat monitor I never knew about HDVS

[Anonymous No.3326513]

>>3326225
Should I get bnc or rca cables? I already got some adapters and the rca is a bit cheaper

[Anonymous No.3326642]

Thoughts on my setup?

I'm looking to get some new speakers if anyone has suggestions. The small SONY Speakers I have match my PVM, & I like that their wood paneling matches my Receiver, but they're just too small.

Also, is there ANY way to remove the hiss you get from scart cables? I'm going with the Euro scart to bnc connector everyone seems to be using, & with my amp on top I can REALLY hear a lot of hiss coming from them at higher decibel levels.

Are they just not grounded properly?

[Anonymous No.3326661]

>>3326642
>Are they just not grounded properly?
most likely.

you can pull the free20L5 route and pull audio directly off the av out/etc and add a rca/3.5mm jack

i'd open your scarts up and see how shitty they are, go from there.

>>3326191
TVL is shit, fuck that, especially at such a big size.

ideally, my holy grail is what i have, a d20f1u. only because i'm so afraid of the issues with the d24 in regards to geometry and convergence.

[Anonymous No.3326745]

>>3326661
the black lines are too thick and your vertical convergence is whack.

[Kya@mobile No.3326807]

>>3326642
It 's not a grounding issue, rather an interference and cross talk one.

More shielding, separation of audio from video lines, and removing voltage from running along the cable can all help to diminish and or get rid of the buzzing.

Alternatively, digital audio mods to remove the issues of analog interference from the situation entirely.

[Anonymous No.3326842]

>>3326807

How do you even use digital audio? This is the first time I've even heard of it. Never even seen this type of cable before. What would I feed it to?

[Anonymous No.3326856]

>>3326745
you're whack, friendo

[Anonymous No.3326925]

>>3326842
Optical, SPDIF. Caps out at 24/48, it's the same as coaxial digital audio, but with beams of light.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3327227]

>>3326842
You'd obviously need to mod different console to actually make use of it.

>What would I feed it to?
Newer amplifiers tend to have support for it standard. There are probably standalone converters you could use to make it compatible with an older audio setup, but I can't imagine it being that high of quality or cost effective.

[Anonymous No.3327241]

>>3326842
you get a receiver that can accept toslink and you plug it into your console and the receiver and you set the audio output, not really necessary unless you are running a real 5 or 7 channel surround setup. I don't notice any significant improvement in sound quality in 2ch

>>3326243
>>3326661
this has a lower tvl @35"and looks okay to me running y/c. I'm sure it would look fine with 450 @43"

[Anonymous No.3327336]

RGB PC Engine on a PVM-8044Q.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327769]

>>3325376
>Oi Free20L5guy, will the 20L5 take a 31kHz RGBS signal (VGA with combined sync) or does it only take 31kHz+ through component?
Sorry, I've been doing real life things and haven't been here for a couple days.
Yeah, it accepts RGBS (RGB +csync) fine if you hit the 'EXT SYNC' button.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327789]

>>3324959
>Professional monitors are great and all, but they don't look like arcade monitors, and the scanlines are ridiculous on them.
Agreed.
>I recommend converting RGB to composite/s-video because I want an arcade look
Disagreed. Find a TV with an OSD (digital menus) and mod it for RGB (the service manual will be super helpful). That gets you the low TVL you're looking for and arcade-style RGB (almost zero non-vector color arcade machines used anything other than RGB. Only black and whire one I can think of is Pong, which I believe used RF (at the very least the pong clone I've played on definitely used RF). S-video and composite frequently have iasues with solid red looking slightly pinkish/purplish so that adjusting phase messes up other colors.

Still, s-video can look closer than a high-TVL RGB monitor if you're using it on a slotted shadow mask like the arcade monitors used.

[Anonymous No.3327801]

>>3327789
s-video looks better than rgb saturation wise imo

no reason for him to rgb mod a consumer set when he can just use component or s-video

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327807]

>>3327801
>s-video looks better than rgb saturation wise imo
"better" to you, perhaps. But desaturated compared to an actual arcade screen.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327813]

>>3327801
>no reason for him to rgb mod a consumer set when he can just use component or s-video
Besides that if you have a real arcade board and want to do it right (tm) without losing some information in two separate colorspace conversions (RGB -> YPbPr -> RGB, or RGB -> Y/C -> RGB) you will need RGB inputs. And s-video can look VERY close whem done right, but under inspection I can tell when a console is using it as opposed to RGB or YPbPr.

Also your odds of finding a TV with an OSD are higher than finding a TV with YPbPr. A lot of s-video only sets have OSD's that use RGB and are thus easily hackable. I believe this applies to black late 90s trinitrons, and I KNOW this applies to lower-end 2000s sets (like an Insignia [best buy] set I found).

[Anonymous No.3327828]

>>3327807
Hey vo'bro, what would you charge labor and soldering supplies to recap a FZ1 3DO? It still works but has weak audio. I have the cap kit. Had it since new and I'm scared I'll fuck it up.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327830]

This reminds me, those broadcast monitors without RGB inputs can likely be hacked for RGB as well, if they use an OSD. So if you can find a service manual, don't be afraid to snap one up.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327836]

>>3327828
I don't have my soldering irons here ATM, but if you still need it done in a couple weeks and haven't found anyone, I'd probably do it for shipping cost + $5 or something. If they're surfacemount caps, maybe a little more. Recapping my game gear was a nightmare (especially since all the leaked electrolyte smelled like salmon).

[Anonymous No.3327837]

>>3327828
Man up, nancy boy.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327848]

>>3327837
Eh, yeah, I'd probably work up the courage too. It's really hard to kill a console unless you are a special kind of unfortunate or dumb. The only time I ki
led a console was when I was 13 and tried replacing a power switch using electrical tape instead of solder. I was a special kind of dumb.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3327853]

>>3327828
note that with a surfacemount capacitor, if you pull up a solder pad accidentally removing the old one, you can just follow the trace and wire one end of the capacitor at the nearest exposed point usually. Or scrape off the solder-resist (typically green stuff) and make yourself a new solder pad.

[Anonymous No.3327929]

>>3327853
thanks for the tip, maybe i'll watch some videos and practice on an old vcr or something.

[Anonymous No.3327931]

>>3325771
Will a BNC to component adapter work?

[Anonymous No.3327969]

>>3327931
>Will a [physical connector type] to [video signal type] adapter work?

You should probably ask your legal guardian

[Anonymous No.3327994]

What level of quality are curved (black plastic era) Sanyo CRT TVs?

What level of quality are flat (silver plastic era) Sanyo CRT TVs?

[Anonymous No.3328050]

>>3323303
arcade vga 5000 card, vga cable, vga m-f adapter, vga to bnc male breakout, bnc 2f-1m Y adapter for sync. minimal fuckery

[Anonymous No.3328058]

>>3327994
I have a silver ds series 20" it has component inputs and a good picture. the white balance is a little warm and not adjustable but it had the best geometry of any of my found tv's. it is shadowmask and doesn't have very pronounced scanlines

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3328067]

>>3328058
So it's probably 6500k and actually adhering to the broadcast standard. That's good.

[Anonymous No.3328104]

>>3327789
>Find a TV with an OSD (digital menus) and mod it for RGB
How many times have you done that, again?

>>3327769
Appreciated, though Kya beat you to it by a day or more ;)

[Anonymous No.3328108]

>>3328050
>arcade vga 5000 card
Wtf, why? Why not get a 5000 series Radeon for like half the price and just use crt_emudriver? Which is going to work ten times better with GroovyMAME anyway.

[Anonymous No.3328219]

>>3328108
>>3328108
minimal fuckery is usually more expensive.

[Anonymous No.3328405]

>>3328050
This is pretty handy if you're dealing with SCART. Cuts down on the fuckery.

[Anonymous No.3328581]

new bread
>>3328580