/CRT/ Thread - Custom Robo Thread

[Anonymous No.3253787]

Previous thread: >>3237024
This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
An Anon's Guide to CRT Hunting: http://pastebin.com/H9H9L2LQ
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

[Anonymous No.3253792]

>>3253787
>/CRT/ - Custom Robo Thread
god dammit.

[Anonymous No.3253805]

Threadly reminder not to fall for the SCART meme.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253816]

>>3253805
Can we at least get some CRTs posted before we start pissing people off?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253819]

Towards that end, pic.

[Anonymous No.3253827]

>>3253805
can anyone provide any guides to making custom cables using BNC cable?
I have no idea where to begin but i want to hook my Dreamcast to my CRT that only supports composite, component, and rgb. (no s-video)

[Anonymous No.3253831]

[Anonymous No.3253836]

>>3253827
1) take a BNC cable.
2) cut one end off.
3) take a dreamcast video cable with all pins on the connector populated.
4) clip the connector off.
4) Solder the end of the BNC cable to the dreamcast connector.
5) repeat for each signal you want.

Sorry, I don't have a dreamcast, so I can't really be too specifc.

If you have questions though, ask.

[Anonymous No.3253843]

http://blogs.chicagotribune.com/news_columnists_ezorn/2007/10/amazingly-huge-.html

There has to be at least one working unit somewhere right..?

[Anonymous No.3253848]

>>3253792
yo too bad I will never own that game

[Anonymous No.3253851]

>>3253843
just buy a jumbotron. Those are also crts.

[Anonymous No.3253859]

>>3253827
>>3253836
You still need to ground one pin to enable the RGB output pins. Though making an RGB cable may be a better option for the dreamcast.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253862]

>>3253859
Hm, I didn't know that abouut the dreamcast (I don't have one either).

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253867]

>>3253848
It's only $10 on amazon right now. (I got mine from a local game store - the owner somehow acquired a box of japanese N64 games).

I've gotten pretty far in it even though I can't read moon.

[Anonymous No.3253871]

>>3253859
>Though making an RGB cable may be a better option for the dreamcast.
Though making VGA cable may be a better option for the dreamcast.
不幸 だ!

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3253873]

>>3253827
>>3253836
The best way would be to find a way to get a hold of just the connector with the pins available, so you wouldn't have to do a wire to wire monstrosity as I have had to twice now; Not being able to open up the connectors is the most bothersome bit, to be honest.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm#dcast is quite useful for referencing.

>>3253862
DC has three video modes: Standard(Composite/S-Vid), RGB(SD 240p/480i), and VGA.

I don't think there's a single game that doesn't have support for Standard Mode, but both RGB and VGA can be disabled based on the game; Capcom's arcade ports are notorious for this, stuff like 3rd Strike supporting standard and VGA, but not RGB so as to presumable not compete with itself. A simple hex edit enabled it though.

[Anonymous No.3253876]

>>3253843

ebay "CRT projector"

http://www.ebay.com/itm//252131432718

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231952113338

Life-size Time Crisis would be fun

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3253883]

>>3253876
One of those Electrohome's came up for sale locally a month or so ago for something like $400.

If I had anywhere to actually make use of the thing and the free dosh to throw at it, would have definitely been neat to use.

[Undesired Life No.3253891]

>>3253876
If i only i had the room for a projector like this id buy one in a heartbeat.

[Anonymous No.3253973]

Anybody here use extra cooling for their monitors?

Considering buying one of those laptop cooling pads and using it upside down. My PVM gets pretty warm in use and I want to last forever.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253980]

>>3253973
the tube will degrade about the same regardless of heat. Just enjoy it.

[Anonymous No.3253987]

>>3253980

>citation needed

There's also a bunch of other circuitry in there too that I'd rather not have to find spares for

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3253991]

>>3253987
Sony knew what they were doing, m'kay?

If you won't trust me trust sony.

If you have air conditioning you'll be fine.

If you are going to refuse to listen to people, you shouldn't ask.

[Anonymous No.3253993]

@3253991

[Anonymous No.3254001]

>>3253787
Camera and a few random screwdrivers laying around....um, okay?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254005]

>>3254001
>screwdrivers
I don't consider hardware sacred. I open it up from time to time.

This N64 needed a good cleaning.

Camera because reasons. This is also my computer desk so I don't fell like it does NOT belong here.

[Anonymous No.3254008]

>>3254005
That crt looks mint though.

[Anonymous No.3254010]

>CRT General:

>20L5 guys' personal blog

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254012]

>>3254008
I've opened it to glance inside, never actually played with anything in there yet.

It works pretty well already.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254020]

>CRT general
>where people bitch instead of contributing

[Anonymous No.3254032]

>>3254020
How about starting your own CRT site/forum then? With blackjack and hookers.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254040]

>>3254032
Maybe some day, but right now just posting stuff.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254046]

Babby's first illegal firearm.

[Anonymous No.3254050]

>>3254020
Well if I still had a crt, I would.
I want to get one again.

[Anonymous No.3254054]

>>3253836
>take a dreamcast video cable with all pins on the connector populated
So, you still need to get SCART cable (because most composite connectors are not fully populated). At least for consoles with non-standard connectors.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254059]

>>3254054
>so you still need to get SCART

There is no excuse for SCART outside europe.
Don't be silly.

Though it is true you're gonna have a hard time. Not sure - do official sega cables have all the pins populated?

Alternately drill/dremel a spot for RGB out via some other connector.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254065]

>>3254059
clarification:
I know official nintendo cables have all pins populated, not sure about the state of sega dreamcast gear though.

[Anonymous No.3254070]

>>3254059
How would you get fully populated connector without buying SCART cable then?
Well, except for drilling, that's an option.
>do official sega cables have all the pins populated?
Saturn, Mega Drive supplied composite cables are not fully populated (NTSC-J), that's for sure. Dreamcast is fully populated.

>There is no excuse for SCART outside europe.
Now that's a thing I did try to comment about in the last thread.
Some of us here actually do live in countries that used SCART. Getting SCART switch here is easier as well, instead of importing BNC switch.
Now getting SCART setup in non-SCART countries is kind of silly, I agree.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254073]

>>3254070
So you're in a SCART country?
Then fine, use SCART. You have an excuse.

Are you saying sega got cheap and didn't even bother populating the 8-pin DIN on the genesis/MD? Wow.

I drilled holes for RCA jacks on mine and get RGB through them. Except my N64 is still just on s-video since it's good enough for now.

[Anonymous No.3254076]

>>3254070
>How would you get fully populated connector without buying SCART cable then?
What does SCART have to do with the pins being populated?

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254078]

>>3254076
Exactly.

I don't get him.

[Anonymous No.3254082]

>>3254073
>So you're in a SCART country?
Yes, I am. And some other posters here are as well. So these comments >>3253805 add nothing to CRT discussion. You guys are not center of the world. We aren't as well. Use whatever works for you and enjoy CRT RGB gaming.
"Meme connector" meme has to die.
>>3254076
>>3254078
If you have console with non-standard AV jack and want to make custom console-BNC cable without drilling holes, you usually can't buy this connector separately. So you have to get another cable to cut off this connector for your soldering job.
And SCART connectors are fully populated, unlike composite.
Sorry if I'm not making any sense.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254084]

>>3254082
For people in the US who use SCART, they use it because of said meme (namely, it's the RetroRGB guy's favorite connector).

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254089]

>>3254082
Funny, I have composite only cables (non-sega) that are fully populated.

[Anonymous No.3254097]

>>3254082
>And SCART connectors are fully populated, unlike composite.
I have seen composite, s-video leads and RF modulators with all the pins populated. Third party cables often use a single part for the connector for all of their cables.

[Anonymous No.3254098]

Fell asleep then replied in the other thread which is almost at page 10

>>3253036 #
That replacement should work but I'd still try to get the Beo 4 if you can. Offer a few euros extra to take it off their hands. You never know, it may turn out to be less broken than they're making out.

[Anonymous No.3254104]

>>3254089
I will double check my NTSC-J Mega Drive cable later to be sure, because I
Now with Saturn I'm sure it's not populated.

Maybe looking for aliexpress cables, looking at photos and buying chinese populated cables for custom cable job is a good plan.

Now if only BNC switches didn't cost arm and leg to import...

>>3254097
3rd party it is then.

[Anonymous No.3254110]

>>3253819
>tfw no N64 RGB
Also, Custom Robo had some good waifu-bots.

[Free 20L5 guy !!uuWXeqNW6/F No.3254117]

>>3254110
Yeah, my photo of that one was too bad to post.

[Anonymous No.3254153]

>>3253805
>>3253816
>>3254073
>>3254082
>>3254084

Okay wow, I left /vr/ for a few months and I come back to people sperging out about SCART and why you shouldn't be using it.

A few questions:
- What should you use instead of SCART?
- Can I buy an extension SCART board/switch (or whatever you want to call it) equivalent for whatever is recommended over SCART?
- I am Australian. PAL region, very little SCART usage, but we did get some consumer sets with native SCART. Is this acceptable or not acceptable for whatever the reason is that Americans are getting upset about it?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can fill me in.

[Anonymous No.3254167]

>>3254153
>- What should you use instead of SCART?
drilling holes

>- Can I buy an extension SCART board/switch (or whatever you want to call it) equivalent for whatever is recommended over SCART?
Extron switchers, $1 (+ $499 shipping)

>- I am Australian. PAL region, very little SCART usage, but we did get some consumer sets with native SCART. Is this acceptable or not acceptable for whatever the reason is that Americans are getting upset about it?

same reason americans are still swiping credit cards : royalties.

[Anonymous No.3254321]

How playable are the n64 custom robo games if you dont know moon

[Anonymous No.3254357]

>>3254321
Anything is playable if you are brave enough.

[Anonymous No.3254393]

>>3254084
>>3254073

Not everyone has the tools to or wants to deface their consoles or make their own cables. If you're such a leet pro, then start selling Nintendo multi-AV to BNC cables. I'd buy 'em. But railing against people buying cables that work for their consoles makes you sound like a cunt.

[Anonymous No.3254412]

For dirct console->BNC cables where would you guys solder required resistors and capacitors?

[Anonymous No.3254493]

>>3254098
Made it. Not going to get a Beo-4 for ebay for triple the price I'm getting the TV, but the guy promised me the broken remote.

50 euros the TV and 20 a replacement remote. Fuck, I'm lucky.

[Anonymous No.3254545]

>>3254357
>brave enough
you make it sound like they should be giving out medals for it

[Anonymous No.3254578]

>>3254493
Cool. Let us know how it goes.

I have a pretty ancient Beovision 5902 which needs a repair but I'd love to get it up and running again if only for the glorious sound system it has.

Pic related but not mine.

[Anonymous No.3254857]

How do you go about fixing a CRT?

I've got a Sharp 32f830, in other words a 32 inch Flat-X CRT. I use S-video with official Nintendo cables, but the input to my tv had static lines that go up the screen and repeat. How do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.3254873]

>>3254857
>input to my tv had static lines that go up the screen and repeat
Like in pic?

[Anonymous No.3254879]

>>3254873
This pic, I mean.

[Anonymous No.3254889]

Is $50 to much to sell a busted pvm with color issues? Screen goes completely green after it warms up. It's probably capacitors or some such bs.

[Anonymous No.3254898]

>>3254889
So long as you disclose the issue there's no problem asking a stupid price.

The trouble is finding a mug to pay it.

[Anonymous No.3254906]

>>3254898
50 can be a bargain for PVM parts. Depends on size and model of course

[Anonymous No.3254921]

>>3253787
Hey whats the best way to hook up a computer to a PVM 14M2U for emulators.

Lets assume I'm building one from scratch, I heard something about needing a graphics card that outputs VGA to get 15Khz or something to get the right resolutions. What kind of card do I need to buy or find and how do I set it up? I would love to have something that can play CPS2, CPS3, and Neo Geo games at the right resolutions without buying arcade boards (or real Neo Geo hardware).

[Anonymous No.3254961]

>>3254889
just say you found it in your basement and dont know much about it, if they ask if it works well say you dont know how to hook anything up to it

[Anonymous No.3254985]

>>3254961
>>3254898
Well $50 isn't that much really even if it does have issues. I'm starting to see ads for $200 for 14 inch memevms.

[Anonymous No.3255115]

[Anonymous No.3255278]

>>3255115
That looks like fucking garbage. It's like blurry and fuzzy.

Jesus I've forgotten how bad CRTs look.

[Anonymous No.3255460]

>>3254921

"arcade VGA" card. Seems to be about $80.

If you want to play stuff at real oddball resolutions (mostly old stuff like donkey kong etc), there's some set of drivers out there with a different name that includes more resolutions than the arcade VGA has. I'm pretty sure it's compatible with the arcade VGA board, as it's an old radeon.

I read some guide recently about setting up a little mini-itx build. The guy said to go for the fastest clocked i3 you can find, since most emulators run everything on one main thread and only a few things get offloaded to a second thread. Get fast ram, but you don't need much of it, and aftermarket coolers for the CPU and case if you want it to run cool and quiet.

[Anonymous No.3255524]

>>3255460
>go for the fastest clocked i3 you can
an anniversary edition Pentium mitebgud too

[Anonymous No.3255538]

>>3254921
get an AMD 7xxx
they support 240p

[Anonymous No.3255546]

Is it acceptable to use SCART in NA if I'm too lazy to make my own BNC cables? I'm not the most adept at electronics hardware and I'd rather not have another thing to worry about on top of performing the RGB mods in the first place (when necessary). Is the crosstalk really that bad?

[Anonymous No.3255554]

>>3255546
properly shielded cables have no crosstalk.
Don't listen to that loudmouth.

[Anonymous No.3255569]

>>3255546
Look for a scart cable with mini coax. thaty will be your best bet. You're fucked if you can't pin a connector and want to rgb mod even an n64.

[Anonymous No.3255605]

>>3254412
75 ohm coax cable and bnc connectors don't need resistors. They have proper resistance. I am building a snes/64/gc cable with a N64 rf adapter so I have plenty of room for caps and will prob have rca jacks in the connnector for audio. I got all the parts but haven't had time to whip one up since it's racecar season

[Anonymous No.3255617]

>>3255460
thx anon saving for later

[Anonymous No.3255618]

>>3255605
>75 ohm coax cable and bnc connectors don't need resistors.
how dumb can you get

[Anonymous No.3255642]

>>3255538
>>3255460

is AMD 7xxx an "arcade VGA" card, and if not which is better?

[Anonymous No.3255656]

>>3255546

SCART AV out -> SCART to BNC adapter is just fine.

It's a fucking 6 Mhz video signal, not a oscilloscope lead. I guarantee you that the impedance mismatch will not be your limiting factor.

Serious case of "freshman engineering" syndrome in these threads lately

[Anonymous No.3255675]

>you will never get this to work with a windows computer

[Anonymous No.3255684]

>>3255675
>apple moni
>2 knobs
as expected

[Anonymous No.3255691]

>>3255675
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=301961989615&alt=web

You're welcome

[Anonymous No.3255696]

>>3255642

The way I've heard it is that the highest you can go is the 5xxx series, but I don't know much about the AMD naming schemes. There might be a difference between "7xxx" and "HD 7xxx"?

Keep in mind I haven't done this myself yet. I've asked several times on here for help on similar subjects but haven't received much help.
It appears that most users here are console gamers snobby about using original hardware, which isn't really surprising given the topic. Not really any MAME-heads here, that crowd tends to be a bit older and found on PHPbb forums like Shmups, arcadeinfo.de etc.

http://www.ultimarc.com/store/section.php?xSec=11

http://mame.3feetunder.com/windows-ati-crt-emudriver/

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=130796.0

http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052

"crt_emudrivers"

[Anonymous No.3255701]

>>3255642
Using CRT_EmuDriver the AMD 7xxx series can output 240p

The Arcade VGA is an HD 5450 which is very low end and obsolete

With an HD 7xxx you wouldnt be limited to one use

[Anonymous No.3255707]

>>3255691
tried it, it doesnt work
Im able to connect it but its impossible to get the right refresh rate, it just cant be done. None of the programs I've tried to change the refresh rate have sufficed to make the screen usable

[Anonymous No.3255716]

>>3255696
http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=149266.0
http://arcadespain.info/Foro/index.php?topic=4532.0

[Anonymous No.3255723]

If someone comes up with a good cheap build on PCpartbuilder or similar please post it and we could all look at it together as a thread?

I love my jungle of consoles, cables, and carts, but a little mini-ITX setup + a 13" monitor could make a nice little compact setup.

[Anonymous No.3255743]

>>3255675
>>3255707
That's an M1212 right? Should accept 35.0khz horizontal and 66.7 vertical for a fixed 640x480 raster.

Are these the values you've tried (and failed) to achieve?

[Anonymous No.3255774]

>>3255743
it's been some time since I tried getting it to work last time but as far as I remember I couldn't get the exact values which you mention and that are specified in the manual, or I did and it still failed. Either way the screen wouldn't "stay still" and constantly flickered

[Anonymous No.3255778]

>>3255743
Oh and in case you don't have it, the service manual:

http://www.retrocomputing.net/parts/apple/M1212/docs/Macintosh_Color_Display.pdf

Looks to be a pretty neat little display. It would be nice to see it working.

[Anonymous No.3255782]

>>3255774
Damn.

Any ideas anyone?

[Anonymous No.3255785]

>>3255778
I have it. Works perfectly with the old Macintosh I have, too bad it doesn't work with my windows comp...

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3255786]

>>3255656
Only reason I want to move away from SCART is audio interference related. Even the cheapest of cheap Chinese cables have looked absolutely fine picture wise.

[Anonymous No.3255864]

>>3255786
Is that really the fault of SCART though?

I'd say it's more likely to be the Multi-AV out or cabling.

[Anonymous No.3255920]

How do you properly calibrate a CRT TV? How do you know if the colors are accurate?

[Anonymous No.3256005]

>>3255675
This is a Macintosh monitor?
How come it doesn't have the rest of the computer integrated into its shell?
It's not for the Apple II series is it?
Is this monitor for the later PPC processor macs?

[Anonymous No.3256012]

>>3255684
I laughed.

[Anonymous No.3256031]

I'm using my PS2 in a retro fashion for playing PS1 games.

I am using component cable which I've noticed are sharper than S-video cables.
But I've heard that S-video has better colours than component. What is meant by better colours?
Should I step down to S-video for my PS2?

[Anonymous No.3256041]

>>3255707
Did you try going into the control panel and click monitor and click "list all modes" to select resolution and hertz?

What happens when you turn on this monitor with no computer connected?
Does it have an on-screen display or anything to indicate that it is working?

[Anonymous No.3256045]

>>3256031
No, component has better colors

[Anonymous No.3256048]

>>3255920
Choose warm (or very warm if available) for colour tempurature.
This makes your display output the correct 6500k that all creative industries have standardized on.

[Anonymous No.3256087]

Please help.

I just plugged in my new PVM-20M4U for the first time, lights come on, but the screen doesn't show anything. Nothing is plugged in as a video source, but I should still be able to see some image right?

[Anonymous No.3256115]

>>3256087
my bvm doesnt show anything if theres no signal

[Anonymous No.3256126]

>>3256048
is this bait?

>>3255920

http://www.glennchan.info/broadcast-monitors/monitor-calibration/monitor-calibration.htm

for individual colors, either eyeball it with some color bars or use a colorimeter.

[Anonymous No.3256138]

>>3256126
I dohn't have a broadcast monitor, just an early 2000s Panasonic TV. Does that guide still apply?

[Anonymous No.3256145]

>>3256138
yes. your tv might not have settings for individual colors, though. see if you can get into the service menu.

[Anonymous No.3256154]

>>3256145
How do I "feed color bars" to the TV? I don't have any extra equipment.

[Anonymous No.3256164]

>>3256154
I usually use a wii with 240p test suite

[Anonymous No.3256169]

>>3256115
Really? I hope that's all. I don't have anything to plug in for now to test the video. Can anyone else confirm?

[Anonymous No.3256206]

>>3256164
Will that be an accurate test with composite video? That's the only cable I have for my Wii.

[Anonymous No.3256208]

>>3256031

If you're using 480i/240p , you can use an RGB scart lead to get even better colors (but you will need an RGB monitor).

Component has two chrominance channels. S-Video squeezes the two chrominance channels into one channel. Component is better.

If you are unhappy with the color performance, play around with the "phase" and "chroma" settings. On consumer sets these controls are usually known as "tint" and "color". Professional stuff also has the ability to change white balance.

"D65" is the standard for practically all western media, and has whites that are slightly yellowish. "D93" is sometimes used by japanese games, and has bluer whites.

[Anonymous No.3256218]

>>3256206
Use whatever cable you will be using for your other consoles.

[Anonymous No.3256224]

>>3256087

Go to radio shack. Pay the outrageous price (probably around $5) they're asking for an RCA -> BNC adapter. Plug in composite to the "video" input. Then order a cheap 10 pack online.

Alternately, buy from amazon prime and choose an item one-day shipping. My SNES Scart cable took about ~6 hours to arrive when I ordered in the morning. It's probably after the cutoff now but you should receive it in a day or two.

Alternately, cut up some coax cable you have laying around and make a ghetto splice for now just to verify that it works.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3256240]

>>3255864
It's not the Multi-AV; It's primarily the cabling with some affect from the SCART connector, the latter especially in conjunction with some SCART switches.

>>3256031
>>3256045
Could hypothetically have something to do with how a given display does the math for getting RGB from YPbPr. I've noticed the colors that my transcoder are putting out seem to look better than what my PVM is doing itself.
Or, at the very least better than whatever adjustments have been made to the Component settings on my OEV203. Switching between the PS2's Component output and RGB transcoded from said Component makes the differences quite obvious. The Component picture is darker, and just looks off for whatever reason: Comparing it to the PS2's own RGB out shows that the transcoder seems to be giving a picture closer to what would be expected.

This is from the GC, but you can see that the yellows have much more red in the PVM's handling of it vs the transcoder on the Megaview.

>>3256169
You can visibly see the tube turning on with mine(20M2MDU) as it goes through degauss, but doesn't show anything by default unless you press one of the menu buttons. The OEV203(rebadge of the same) does the same, but has had things changed in the settings to display the input, color encoding, and/or "No Sync".

Try pressing the Menu button on the front of the monitor. If it doesn't display anything once you've done that, something isn't right.

>>3256224
If I'm remembering correctly, it's closer to $7-8.

[Anonymous No.3256291]

S-VHS input means s-video, right? This thing looks like a beaut but it's old as fuck, could be completely fucked geometry wise. Although if it had s-video at the time (i.e. probably in the 80s, judging from the design) it was probably pretty high end.

[Anonymous No.3256319]

>went to my neighborhood arcade today
>remember it as glorious place of shiny CRTs
>they had a sweet metal slug machine

>90% of games are LCD now
>some games are obviously running at lower resolution and blurrily upscaled
>even the lightgun games are LCD
>laggy, wii-tier accuracy
>wagecucks who set up the machine can't even look down the sights to calibrate the gun properly
>all shots land 2 degrees up and to the left

>metal slug is gone
>in it's place is literally a flappy bird arcade game

>only two CRTs left in the whole place
>Street Fighter III and DDR

>slot mask
>.79mm phosphors

truly, life is suffering

[Anonymous No.3256323]

>>3256291

Looks neat. How much is he asking for it?

[Anonymous No.3256327]

>>3254073
I don't get your hate-boner for SCART
It produces the same results as BNC except it's much more convenient and easier to use

[Anonymous No.3256330]

>>3256323
15 dollars.

[Anonymous No.3256347]

>>3256327
Americans are obnoxious supremacists who cannot fathom ever using a french connector for their stuff, and he's a special kind of cunt who prefers drilling consoles to using a normal connector and not being a cunt about it.
There is literally zero benefit to BNC over SCART mechanically and electrically.

[Anonymous No.3256350]

>>3256218
I want to calibrate it mostly for my PS2, which is hooked up with component. Any way to calibrate through the PS2?

[Anonymous No.3256359]

>>3256330

Yeah, go for it. is it a craiglist/local thing or on ebay?

If it's local, just bring along some kind of source (I use my PSP with the tv-out cables) and plug it in for five minutes to make sure there's no glaring problems.

Though for $15, it's not even a huge deal if it's doa anyways, so long as you don't have to drive for hours to get it.

S-video's the best quality you can get out of an unmodded N64 anyways, and on NES you're stuck with composite without $$$ modding.

Pick it up, post some shotz.

[Anonymous No.3256370]

>>3256350

Do you have homebrew on your PS2 yet? I don't know for sure that there's a calibration homebrew, but wouldn't be surprised.

Post your model number (E.G SCPH-70012) and I'll tell you if it's hackable.

www.psx-scene.com is full of info, but

>>>/vg/hbg is alright too, though 95% focused on 3ds.

[Anonymous No.3256390]

>>3256370
It's not modded yet and I don't want to get into that right now. I'm really just looking for a quick way to get my TV looking more accurate.

[Anonymous No.3256404]

>>3256370

It's literally a $10 memory card you buy off ebay.

Stick it in your console, and it's 'modded'. Take it out and you're 100% back to stock.

The 'hacking' etc just takes place in RAM, there's no brick risk or anything. Much more akin to a flashcart etc than to an actual "mod".

ebay "free mcboot memory card"

[Anonymous No.3256415]

>>3256404
I'd rather do it myself for the fun of it. I already know about some different methods, I plan on doing the 007 one.

[Anonymous No.3256462]

>>3256319
>Street Fighter III
Jeezus that game sucks
Should have put in Alpha 3 instead

[Anonymous No.3256473]

>>3256415

hmm... didn't see anything about a color bars homebrew (no 240p test suite), but you could try running linux on it and opening up a BMP or something like that.

[Anonymous No.3256479]

>>3256319
That flappy shit cab made more money than the entire SNK library put together.

[Anonymous No.3256494]

>>3256479

Yeah. At least today the ratio of 8 year olds+dads to burnouts like me was like 5:1, and they seemed interested in that kiddie shit.

There used to be tons of cigarette-smoking asians trying to look tuff there. Maybe they still show up on thursday nights.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3256517]

>>3256319
>>slot mask
>>.79mm phosphors
You weren't actually expecting to find something sporting an aperture grille there, were you?

[Anonymous No.3256553]

>>3255778
In this manual it says the monitor takes separate sync.

But in this spec sheet:
http://www.retrocomputing.net/parts/apple/M1212/docs/Macintosh_Color_Display.pdf
It says the monitor takes composite sync signal.

Perhaps this is why it doesn't work on PCs.

[Anonymous No.3256556]

>>3256553
Pardon,

This is the spec sheet:
http://www.retrocomputing.net/parts/apple/M1212/docs/apple_m1212.pdf

[Anonymous No.3256572]

>>3254873
Like this. I'm finding my Nintendo 64 makes it worse when I plug the controller in, it makes it look worse. Gonna have to try different consoles but it does seem to be the input to the tv and not the cables.

[Anonymous No.3256590]

>>3256556
As you know, VGA (the blug video plug used to connect 31 KHz CRT PC monitors) uses separate horizontal and vertical sync.

I think you need a sync splitter.

Do sync splitters need a separate power source like RGB>YUV transcoders?

[Anonymous No.3256593]

>>3256473
Been fiddling around with it for a while, since luckily Onimusha has a pretty good calibration screen in its options menu. Got brightness and contrast looking pretty good. I think my hue's a little off but it looks much better than it did before.

[Anonymous No.3256595]

>>3256590
No, wait.
You need a sync joiner.

[Anonymous No.3256603]

>>3255605
>75 ohm coax cable and bnc connectors don't need resistors.
They need them.
>They have proper resistance.
They have 75 ohm impedance. Check this out: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_line

[Anonymous No.3256605]

>>3256593
What?
There's an in-game calibration suite?

Is there a list of games that have this?
Are there certain game developers that tend to include this feature in their releases?
Do any 5th gen games have this feature?

[Anonymous No.3256610]

>>3256605
It's not really a calibration suite, just a "Monitor Brightness Tuning". It basically is just this chart (with slightly less colors).

[Anonymous No.3256645]

>>3256605
Devil May Cry has it too

[Anonymous No.3256653]

>>3256645
I believe RE2 has one as well. Maybe it has to do with Capcom's arcade roots since arcade games more or less universally have color check bars in test mode.

[Anonymous No.3256807]

>>3256605

>>3256605

Lots of games have a greyscale tuning screen.

MGS3 has one, I think MGS2 might as well.

Color tuning screens are far rarer, and I don't know of any ps2 games that have one off the top of my head. Looks like some anons have posted theirs.

IMO the only thing that's crucial to get right is phase (also known as "tint") and saturation is okay to adjust as a matter of taste.

If the white point is off on a consumer set there's generally no fixing it and you just should smash it with a golf club.

[Anonymous No.3256926]

>>3256572
Well wouldn't you know it, it was none of the above. The real culprit was an ac adapter for my laptop. The fucker even screwed up my controls to the game. By this I mean that when plugged into that ac adapter, if I were to bring the controller into range of my computer, the character in the game would move on its own, even go as far as pausing the game.

Anyone interested in seeing that, I can make a video. Kinda spooky seeing the video game play itself essentially.

[Anonymous No.3256948]

I have a CRT and I use it to play retro vidya.

Well, I suppose I've contributed all I can to this thread.

[Anonymous No.3256959]

>>3254110
The mod is pretty easy. It was literally the first soldering project I ever attempted. To bad the internal anti-aliasing still makes it look like shit.

[Anonymous No.3257086]

>>3256948
Nope not at all. Images? Setup? Any info or experiences to share? Questions?

See?

[Anonymous No.3257146]

>>3256959

Apparently you can turn that off with a gameshark for most games

It's just a VI register

[Anonymous No.3257147]

First of a 4 part series about CRTs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsZ5PJB-w2s

[Anonymous No.3257218]

Hey, I think I figured out how to get really really thick scanlines (think like PVM/BVM) on a CRT monitor if you're emulating using the CRT-Geom shader and don't want to mess around with that superwide resolution stuff. Here's the settings you want, assuming you're using retroarch:

Target Gamma: 3.00
Monitor Gamma: 3.00
Curvature Toggle: 0.00
Curvature Radius: 0.10
Corner Smoothness: 80.00
Scanline Weight: 0.10

You can ignore the Curvature/Corner settings if for some reason you like the fake curved screen - if you're using a CRT monitor I don't know why you would since the vast majority have curved screens anyway.

You might want to mess around with the Target and Monitor gamma settings, as getting it right is a bit of a sweet spot - too low and the heavy scanlines make the image extremely dark, too high and it'll get washed out.

[Anonymous No.3257225]

>>3257218
Real PVM on the right actually running at 240p for comparison.

[Anonymous No.3257228]

>>3257225
*on the left

[Anonymous No.3257235]

>>3257225
I cant stand the one on the left how many fucking lines is that? my 14" 700 line BVM doesnt have them that thick

[Anonymous No.3257245]

>>3257235

TVL is a measure of horizontal resolution, not vertical you tard

[Anonymous No.3257248]

>>3257147

>All CRTs start with a finite amount of barium

>This barium is then used up when the set is turned on

>No matter how nice your set is, no matter how well you treat it, how skilled you are at maintaining it

>that set will some day lose brightness and die

hold me lads

[Anonymous No.3257262]

>>3257248
>No new CRTs are being manufactured, what we have now is all we'll ever have.
>Most TVs were owned by people who left them on all the time.
>Most monitors were probably used in an office setting, also turned on all the time.
>Most PVMs/BVMs were probably on all the time for broadcasts unless they're from a medical/scientific environment.

[Anonymous No.3257271]

I'm pretty sure most regular people don't leave their sets on all the time. Maybe TV junkies will do 8 hours , dumb housewives/neets up to 12 a day but certainly not true 24/7 use like security cameras and some broadcast stuff.

I think the consumer stuff is safe.

I also think that the medical stuff is going to be the next goldmine, since some of that stuff was probably just used for ~4 hour surgeries etc. Probably some of it was xray type stuff left on all the time though :(

I've been stocking up on ~2003 era multiformat sets, which I'd gotten into this stuff about 4 years ago though. I don't know when rock-bottom was, but we're clearly on an upward slope. We'll probably hit "Earthbound" levels of pricing in a few years for the 20" and up sets.

[Anonymous No.3257274]

>>3257271

Well, "safe" from phosphor burn in/barium depletion at least. Anecdotal evidence seems to suggest the h-sync transistors go first on consumer stuff.

The main problem with the consumer stuff is that the actually nice, worth keeping sets and the conshitmer trash are hard to tell apart when powered off so they end up on the curb indiscriminately.

How many monitors do *you* own, /crt/?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3257291]

>>3257245
>>3257235
Higher TVL leads to thicker scanlines, due to having a gun capable of higher focus.


It's from Fudoh's site, so a random guess would be a BVM-20F1U and as such 900TVL.

[Anonymous No.3257303]

>>3257218
>using fake scanlines on a fucking CRT
off yourself scoundrel

[Anonymous No.3257308]

>>3257235
>>3257291
Consider that that is a close-up too...they don't appear nearly that thick from normal viewing distance

[Anonymous No.3257310]

>>3257303
Fake scanlines actually look better on most computer monitor CRTs though...
I tried the super-wide-resolution trick, and it just looked very harsh and dim.

[Anonymous No.3257312]

>>3257245
Get out.

[Anonymous No.3257313]

>>3257303
I bet you wouldn't even have known they were from a shader if I hadn't said so in the post.

[Anonymous No.3257314]

>>3257310
>Fake scanlines actually look better
No

[Anonymous No.3257315]

>>3257313
Yes I actually fucking knew it was that shit retroarch because that's nothing like what 240p looks like on a CRT

[Anonymous No.3257320]

>>3257315
Seems like a pretty good simulation of high-resolution BVMs where you can't make out the phosphor unless you look real close to me senpai.

[Anonymous No.3257328]

>>3257315
Listen you inbred mongoloid. There is no difference between an emulated scanline or a genuine one.
If using the correct shader the lines are the exact same width and have the same placement as a genuine console. However, the colors may be off due to shit shaders.
If youre disputing the size of his black areas, thats a problem you have with his set not the emulator.

Instead of calling it bad because its 'fake' explain why and how you think that 'fake' is bad.

[Anonymous No.3257342]

>>3256926
Video please. That sounds crazy.

[Anonymous No.3257349]

>>3256404
>It's literally a $10 memory card you buy off ebay.
Please do not advocate buying those scams.

[Anonymous No.3257376]

If I'm making a diy snes bnc cable I bridge all the coax shielding and run it to ground? does it need a resistor? conflicting info itt. can I solder the signal line capacitors directly to the pin? should i use perf board and a little project box or just wrap everything up?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3257383]

>>3257376
Shielding is tied to directly to ground.

>directly to the pin?
What pin? From the SNES's Multi-AV connector? The BNC connector?
SCART cables tend to hid these in their hoods, so having them near the BNC connector would probably be decent, but someone more knowledgeable in electronics and the like would be better at giving you a proper answer.

Project box would likely make for easier assembly(in my small amount of experience in putting together makeshift cables) but would obviously be bulkier and wouldn't looks as nice, though that really all depends on how you go about doing it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3257402]

>>3257383
Also, the capacitors are needed for NTSC consoles. PAL consoles don't need caps, but rather 75ohm resistors tied to ground for R, G, B, and Composite Video.

[Anonymous No.3257425]

>>3257376
>>3257383
>Shielding is tied to directly to ground.
>If I'm making a diy snes bnc cable I bridge all the coax shielding and run it to ground?
No. Tie all the shielding and solder together. Then take that and solder to ground at one point. That way you avoid a ground loop.

The two ground pins on the SNES are on the same ground plane. Like pretty much any retro console.

>an I solder the signal line capacitors directly to the pin?
Doesn't matter.

>does it need a resistor?
Depends on the console. Generally no. SNES no.

You'll here terrible info about have to use Csync. Highly dependent on the application.

[Anonymous No.3257445]

>>3257274
>How many monitors do *you* own, /crt/?
3

[Anonymous No.3257446]

>>3257328
>There is no difference between an emulated scanline or a genuine one.
yes there is, because of double strike.
XXX x 240@120hz yeilds a way closer result.

[Anonymous No.3257453]

>>3257383
>Shielding is tied to directly to ground.
Okay no resistor, I got that part. Let me explain further. Strip the coax, gather the shielding of each individual wire and run it to a ground pin on the snes connector. Repeat for the 2 audio lines and use the other ground pin. grounds are done.
>What pin? From the SNES's Multi-AV connector?
Yes I was thinking of using low tolerance axial mount tantalum caps between the pins on the connector and the electrode of the cable. what voltage should I be using 10v? do they come tighter than 5%?

also was thinking of the small perf board and hobby box to mount radial caps and just use rca jacks and a production audio cable.

[Anonymous No.3257461]

>>3257453
left out a part I would gather the shielding then solder a wire across all shielding and the ground pin to make a cleaner layout. I cant put the cap directly on the bnc end because those are pressed onto the coax with a compression tool.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3257504]

>>3257425
I didn't mean to solder each shield to ground, only that the shielding should be tied to ground
The way his sentence was worded made it iffy to me as to whether he meant if he should (strangely) run the shielding through a resistor or not. It seems I may have been right in that regard, actually.
Otherwise an issue with wording on my part, sorry.

>>3257453
With the project box, I was imagining something more along the lines of something small and inline with the cable, but now I've got the idea of a something like a gutted RF box i.e >>3255605 with more connectors rather than the single one originally intended. Their idea of just using it as a housing is likely better though.

Crimped BNC connectors are definitely the way to go, but you could hypothetically put together some soldered BNC connector monstrosity; Can't imagine it would hold up all that well though.

[Anonymous No.3257642]

>>3257314
not compared to actual 15 kHz monitor scanlines, no. but in my experience on my PC monitor I found the hardware scanlines way too harsh.You also end up needing a bunch of filters with the super-wide-resolution trick anyway, because otherwise the colors are wrong...

If you want authentic scanlines it's real 15 kHz monitor or bust.

[Anonymous No.3257745]

>>3256327
Just filter him. These threads have become far more bearable for me since doing so.

[Anonymous No.3257790]

Contributing OC.

[Anonymous No.3257864]

>>3257790
Autism.

[Anonymous No.3257885]

>>3257342
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oLgCoGrO6o

The description has the details on what I'm showing.

[Anonymous No.3257897]

>>3256005
Are you serious? Are these real questions?

[Anonymous No.3258102]

>>3257897
Please help me if you can.

[Anonymous No.3258139]

>>3258102
- Yes.
- There are/were many, many Macintosh computers that aren't/weren't all-in-ones.
- No, Apple II monitors were generally composite
- I think that's the Macintosh 12" RGB monitor, which was designed for the Macintosh II and LC which are 68k Macs (Pre-PPC).

[Anonymous No.3258345]

>>3258139
Thanks.
How can I get this monitor working on a PC?

This was posted earlier:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301961989615
but they say it doesn't work.
>>3255707
>>3255774

Does the monitor fail to take VGA signal because it requires composite sync?
>>3256556

Is there such a thing as a sync joiner that plugs into VGA cables?

[Anonymous No.3258351]

>>3258345
You may or may not be able to, but you'll need a VGA to DB-15 adapter to try!

[Anonymous No.3258384]

>>3258351
Will the monitor be damaged if plugged in as a secondary display and receiving high resolution signal before I can change it to 640X480?

[Anonymous No.3258403]

>>3258384
I honestly don't know, my friend. I'm sure someone else more knowledgable can assist you better. I would start by figuring out exactly what model it is and what resolutions it can actually handle. I know a lot about vintage Apple hardware, but not a lot about using vintage displays on modern hardware...

[Anonymous No.3258791]

Where is the lead located in a CRT's glass?

Is it evenly distributed throughout the glass, or is it a coating on the front, or rear surface of the tube?

I picked up a BVM with a small scratch on the screen (~1mm deep) and I'd like to have kids some day.

[Anonymous No.3258810]

have crts been emulated in vr for the oculus rift yet

[Anonymous No.3258815]

>>3258810
Not well.

You'll need actual 4k screens too I believe.

[Anonymous No.3258969]

Is there any particular connector I'm looking for if I want to connect PS2 via component to BNC?

[Anonymous No.3258973]

>>3258969

"Female RCA to BNC"

Radio Shack is asking ass-rape prices ($5-$8 each), Fry's and US ebay sellers are a bit more reasonable at ~$1.50 ish each when you buy a ten pack, and chinese ebay sellers have them for $0.75 each, probably cheaper if you order in bulk.

Something like this, less the retarded pricing: http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-BNC-Male-Female-Adapter/dp/B000V1R97U

[Anonymous No.3259004]

>>3256462

>hating literally the best Street Fighter game

[Anonymous No.3259045]

>>3258973
This should do?
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/bnc-plug-to-phono-socket-adapter-fa11m

[Anonymous No.3259078]

>>3259045
>http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/bnc-plug-to-phono-socket-adapter-fa11m

Yeah. You'll need one for composite, three for component, or four for true RGB (RGB+csync).

I'd pick up four of those, then order a cheap 10 pack on the ebay slow boat.

[Anonymous No.3259241]

I have a strange issue with my new BVM-14H5U.

I bought the BVM and a BKM-129X (RGBs input card) separately, since the BVM only came with HD/SDI and SDI decoders.

My issue is this: The monitor seems to have a garish red tint when playing 480i content. I thought I got fucking memed until I tried out some 480p stuff, and bam it made the whites great again, built a wall with mexico and everything was great again.

Going back to 480i content , the reddish tint is less now (???) but still there. For now I'm assuming there are different presets stored for different resolutions of content, anyone know where in the settings menu I should be looking? I also got a BKM-15R with the unit that I haven't unpacked yet.

[Anonymous No.3259518]

Anybody got a dvd iso with smpte color bars? I'm looking for something I can play on my PS2.

Most of what I'm finding online so far is movie.exe levels of shady, and the non-shady stuff seems to be all bluerays as I guess the true home video duders have moved on.

[Anonymous No.3259681]

>>3259004
Turd Strike is garbage
Only underage memers like you think it's good

It's slow as molasses,plays nothing like a Street Fighter game and it's unbalanced as fuck

[Anonymous No.3259687]

>>3257328
>There is no difference between an emulated scanline or a genuine one.
Yes there is
Fake scanlines are just black lines drawn on top of upscaled bullshit

Get the fuck out of here

[Anonymous No.3259698]

>>3257642
I have no idea what you're even talking about at this point

Some PC CRT Monitors out there accept 15khz signals

If you're referring to the scanlines being super thick in a GDM-FW900 then though shit that's the nature of really sharp monitors(though if you're at least 5 feet away from the monitor it shouldn't be too bad)...still better than ugly-ass fake scanlines

[Anonymous No.3259714]

>>3259241

Resetting back to factory settings didn't clear it. I did some testing with SMPTE color bars on a DVD (crushed to hell blacks though) and made it a little better, but the problem persists.

The red tint is present even at low brightness, but when I crank up the brightness the whole screen turns red. When I switch it to 480p mode, the screen looks fucking great, and cranking up the brightness turns the screen pure grey like it's supposed to.

I am using a PS2, same cable for both 480i and 480p modes.

Anyone know how the BKM-129X works? So far I'm assuming that the input card itself is fine, and that I just need to find whereever the previous owner royally fucked up the settings for gain and bias for 480i content.

...found the gain and bias settings but they don't seem to be be doing much. I think the machine is just resetting things behind my back, or perhaps I haven't figured out how to save properly.

[Anonymous No.3259739]

>>3259687
what's the actual difference though? in both cases the guns just aren't drawing anything on the blank sections in between the lines. sure each line is technically going to be made up of multiple thinner scanlines and might look overly crisp because of how focused the beam is, but is it really going to look that much different to the kind of scanlines you'll see on a pvm?

[Anonymous No.3259745]

>>3259714

OK, got it fixed now. Kind of wonder how and why the previous owner got it that bad. Can actually play lightgun games now.

[Anonymous No.3259861]

Picked up this Extron switch without entirely thinking. Anyone know the name of these audio connectors?

[Anonymous No.3259879]

>>3259861
euroblock/phoenix connectors

[Anonymous No.3259894]

>>3259879
Thanks kindly.

Would the easiest way of getting my consoles to plug into one be to solder female phono plugs onto the + and - pins of the euroblock?

[Undesired Life No.3259901]

>>3259894
You can buy the connectors that insert into those slots. These connectors terminate in screws for each pin.
Then you can buy RCA to screw terminal adapters. which take an RCA and make it a positive and negative terminal. and some wire to connect the screw terminals together

[Anonymous No.3259919]

>>3259894
you could just cut the end off whatever you're using as an audio cable and use a captive screw terminal. or use
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-Of-5-5-Pole-Extron-Terminal-Blocks-Part-100-457-01-/262173333747
clip the end off decent audio cable like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-Of-5-5-Pole-Extron-Terminal-Blocks-Part-100-457-01-/262173333747
ignore the center screw, shielding goes to - and the center goes to +, zip tie it to the block and Bob's your uncle.

[Anonymous No.3259924]

>>3259919
too stoned.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Monoprice-7inch-3-5mm-Stereo-Male-2RCA-Female-22AWG-Cable-Gold-Plated-Black-/231417617220

[Anonymous No.3260217]

>>3259698
the FW900 doesnt accept 15Khz signals

It's operating at 31 Khz because its doubling the refresh rate in order to 120 so lower resolutions are capable of running at 31Khz and that requires a filter as well.

So tell me, you fucking imbecile is that considered fake or real?

>>3259687
you never replied to this
>>3259739

I've never seen such stupid fanboy-ism in my life
People complain about 20L5 guy but this takes the cake for the most retarded thing ive seen in this thread.

[Anonymous No.3260219]

>>3259698
the FW900 doesnt accept 15Khz signals

It's operating at 31 Khz because its doubling the refresh rate to 120Hz so lower resolutions are capable of running at 31Khz. (pssst it requires emulation and a filter)
So tell me, you fucking imbecile is that considered fake or real?
I'm sure by your thinking all emulators are fake dogshit anyway right?
>>3259687
you never replied to this
>>3259739

I've never seen such stupid fanboy-ism in my life
People complain about 20L5 guy but this takes the cake for the most retarded thing ive seen in this thread.

[Anonymous No.3260227]

I've got an aperture grille CRT monitor with "ghosting" issues. How do I know what's causing it? I've heard it can be from a shit unshielded vga cable (not unlikely, my studio monitors seem to put off a lot of magnetic science energy) or phosphor decay. How do I tell what's causing it?

[Anonymous No.3260703]

>>3260219
240@120hz produces way closer color and brightness than basic scanlines, because of double striking.
it's stupid sharp, but that's fw900 for you.

[Anonymous No.3260728]

>>3254073

We're ALL in SCART country because the internet gets a retro SCART cable to your door for $25.

Plugging consoles into a permanent, short SCART lead off your TV is also way easier/cleaner than plugging and unplugging 5 RGB jacks

Drilling RCA jacks, lol

[Anonymous No.3260732]

>>3260728

[Anonymous No.3260753]

Stop jerking off to deprecated displays and join the 21st century already, faggots.

[Anonymous No.3260830]

Help me out CRT friends.

I've spent the last few days with my BVM and it's very nice but what should I do to hook up headphones to it?

It has no audio output on it at all and plugging the RCAs straight into my headphones don't allow volume control.

What do?

[Anonymous No.3260890]

>>3260830
Get a headphone amp

[Anonymous No.3260894]

Hello. NEC CRT user here. Is it normal for the CRT to produce static on speakers? I have a relatively big speaker setup in the back of my room and when the CRT is on i can clearly hear the static noise when nothing's playing
Is there any way to fix this ?

[Anonymous No.3260897]

>>3260830

"fiio e6"

<= $30 and you get two bass boost settings. /g/hpg also will have a bunch of recs for you, just make sure to specify a price range cause those guys are autistic just like us.

It is *possible* to use an RCA -> 3.5mm converter into a 3.5mm cord with volume control, but this does not produce good sound since game consoles were not meant to drive headphones directly.

What I'm using right now is an old set of 2.1 computer speakers (Creative T3000), the wired remote that comes with them has a headphone jack on it that disables the speakers. The volume control still works for controlling the headphones, would be god-tier if the bass knob worked for headphones too.

[Anonymous No.3261007]

Question about RGB modded NTSC Nintendo 64 (with DIY amp).
If I get luma as sync RGB SCART cable for it and add a chip to get csync, can I also use this cable for Super Famicom?

[Anonymous No.3261036]

The only real difference between drawing 480 lines 60 times per second with every other line blanked, and drawing 240 lines 120 times per second, is brightness. However, inserting black frames every other frame on the latter makes the brightness exactly the same as the former.

The only real difference between these two methods are
240p120Hz+black-frames has gaps that show up even at 100% black.
480p+blank-lines can display interlacing modes correctly if the line filter is capable of it.
240p120Hz+black-frames is more sensitive to any vsync issues with the emulator.
240p120Hz+black-frames has lower latency with Vsync due to 8ms frame times. But frame delay at 8ms gets you that regardless.

Either way, you want to do this on a monitor that can boost its light/color output through its settings, and isn't too high resolution (1280x1024 screens are fine)

[Anonymous No.3261041]

>>3260890
mixers work good too as headphone amps and are price comparable.

[Anonymous No.3261046]

If your cable is pulling Y from pin 7 and feeding it to a sync stripper it should work with both consoles.
If the cable pulls csync from pin 3 then it only works with snes/superfamicom.

[Anonymous No.3261050]

>>3261046
Was meant for >>3261007

[Anonymous No.3261441]

Will I get input lag playing Gamecube when its composite input is used on an HDTV? I'm pretty certain I've noticed a difference between my CRT at home and the 1920x1200 HDTV at my friend's house. Gameplay in SSBM seems a bit sloppier and the character/stage select screens seem more sensitive to input, though this may just be me trying to make excuses for getting two-stocked. Is this lag real, and should I convince him to get a CRT to play Melee on?

[Anonymous No.3261487]

>>3261441

>NOT RETRO REEEEEEEEEE

But yeah, HDTVs suck fucking dick wrt input lag. It's actually gotten worse over time as they cram in "smart" features, creepy 120hz motion interpolation, etc. Even on "game mode" most modern stuff adds 2-4 frames of lag. (~32-64 ms)

It probably won't help you get smoked, after all you were both playing with the same lag. Lag does give a slight advantage to "twitchy" characters though, as by the time you see a move you're 4 frames behind and it might be too late to counter.

You probably want a ~20 inch consumer set that only has composite inputs. Consumer stuff that takes component is usually a warning sign, lots of these will accept higher resolutions (good), but also will add 2 frames of scaler lag (bad) and deny you scanlines (bad).

This is the local autism general so we use fancy shit but that's only necessary if you care about good picture quality or lagless 480p and up.

If you live in a poor area, go hunt around thrift stores. My area just stopped stocking them sometime in the past year. Craigslist also has ~30" monstrosities, but that stuff is heavy as hell and a lot harder to justify the size/weight vs. picture quality ratio.

[Anonymous No.3261501]

>>3261487
>~30" monstrosities

Yeah, but watch out for rear-projectors. Those distinctive large flatscreens (not all flatscreens are rear-projector, just the huge ones). They have awful picture for gaming.

[Anonymous No.3261553]

>>3261487
I actually have been playing on a "flatscreen" Sony Trinitron CRT (hence why I noticed the lag on his TV) that takes component; it seems ok and I've heard good things about Trinitrons, but didn't know that there was any lag possibly associated with it. Should I try switching to the monstrous Sharp CRT also in my possession, or are is my model (KV-20FS100) good to go?

[Anonymous No.3261567]

>>3261553
My flatscreen Samsung says "standard television" somewhere on the back sticker. Look for something like that. What you want is a Standard Definition set. Lag is caused by upscaling, de-interlacing, and other internal features on a high-def TV.

[Anonymous No.3261591]

>>3261553

Just a question of how autistic you want to go, lad.

Before I knew lag existed I used to play on a similar flatscreen sony. Nobody told me it had lag and I never noticed.

Does yours display scanlines for 240p content? Does it allow you to input 480p and higher resolutions?

If "yes" and "no" then it's fine.

It died and I moved onto LCD. It's just when I decided to get back into CRTs that I decided to go balls-out with it and get an RGB, zero-lag monitor.

[Anonymous No.3261636]

>>3261553

Hmm... I read through the manual here: https://docs.sony.com/release/KV13FS100.pdf

and it doesn't mention anything about 480p, resolution, HDTV etc. Most of them that do have this capability brag about it. I think you've got one of the goldilocks consumer sets that takes component (good picture quality) but doesn't fuck it up with scaler lag/scanline destroyers.

If you're playing on a gamecube, the cables are $200 (!!!). If you're playing on a backwards-compatible wii, they're like $8.

Plug in something /vr/ to your set and take a picture for us.

[Anonymous No.3261649]

>>3261636
There were plenty of standard def consumer sets that take componenti. DVDs are essentially outputting component video and those were around long before HD became prevalent. The silver SD sony sets are everywhere, and those have component.

[Anonymous No.3261665]

>>3261007
..why would you buy a sync on luma cable if you're going to restore csync?

[Anonymous No.3261676]

>>3261649

They're actually somewhat rare in my area.

Most people here (my family included) went straight from those 20" ish fake-wooden-paneled, composite/rf-only sets to those massive "HD-ready" trinitrons.

Those two categories are all over my local CL, but very few newer 20" sets or component sets that don't do 480p.

It's all 13"-20" 'guest room' composhit or '2004's pride and joy' type sets.

[Anonymous No.3261689]

>>3254070
>>3254073
Think he means the scart connector not being fully populated.
>>3256347
>>3257745
>>3254082
>>3254153
>>3254393
>>3256327
>>3260728
Any video connector that carries a power line with it is garbage. SCART is the worst connector you could use for RGBS.
At best you can just wire the RGB and S lines. Still a huge connector that has limitation in size of coax you can use.
HD15/VGA is a much better connector if you wanted something in place of scart.
>>3254393
>then start selling Nintendo multi-AV to BNC cables. I'd buy 'em.
Ya start selling BNC breakout connectors to ignorant people. What could possibly go wrong?

[Anonymous No.3261712]

>>3261591
I'm not trying to go too autistic; I just want something that can give a pretty decent picture (which mine already does, even without component cables) and doesn't have the lag the most HDTVs do. I already have a larger Sharp CRT that I may use for an amateur tournament later on this month, but I'd prefer to play on this Trinitron since it looks significantly better.

>>3261636
I'm using a backwards compatible Wii, so no problems getting a component cable if I decide to. Anyways, here's SimCity (running in an emulator outputting 240p)

[Anonymous No.3261719]

>>3261712
Another picture of the whole TV

[Anonymous No.3261727]

>>3261689
So what? Do you just adapt SCART into component with a transcoding box so you can use the dterminal?

this is some dumb ass shit senpai

[Anonymous No.3261731]

>>3261727
I don't use scart to being with.

[Anonymous No.3261739]

>>3261712
And here's the same picture on my other CRT. It's significantly bigger, but has much worse sound (not a huge deal since I could hook it up to my sound system, but I'd rather not have to deal with that) and the picture just seems duller.

[Anonymous No.3261745]

>>3261712

Yeah, if you've got scanlines you're safe. Getting a better picture than that trinitron is going to be a bit expensive. You can get lagless 480p with high end monitors (PVM/BVM, assorted other manufacturers) but they get pretty retarded if you want them bigger than 14" and/or in mint condition

So for your friend just try to find him a set like yours (assuming he actually wants one). Now you know what to look for: feed a 240p signal into it and watch for scanlines. I use a PSP with the tv out cables so that you don't have to scrounge for a power outlet when you're at goodwill/some craigslist dude's house etc.

The only real path upwards for you would be 20" RGB monitors (~$200) 14" RGB multiscan (~$200) or a 20"+ RGB multiscan ($500 and up). ((You can find 'deals' or even for 'free', but you're investing your time === money into that search)

I'd only bother upgrading if you get the desire to play lagless sixth gen in 480p. If you have the money to spare you could be king of the hill at the local smash tournament.

[Anonymous No.3261765]

>>3261712
>>3261739

Yeah, trinitrons have ruined me and I can't stand slot mask any more.

One thing I do notice about zooming in on your first pic is that the scanlines are there, but not very deep. It's a matter of personal preference, but the higher res monitors will have much deeper scanlines. On my ~800 tvl monitors the spaces in between are 100% black and the same width as the raster lines, on my 450 TVL the scanlines are still completely black but are a bit narrower than the drawn lines.

An RGB monitor will get you deeper scanlines and more accurate, vibrant colors. It's up to you to decide how much it's worth to you.

(You'll also gain much better horizontal resolution but nearly everything is overkill for /vr/ stuff with only 320 to 224 pixels).

You could look into a little 14" if you just want some nice eye candy to sit on top of your desk.

CRTs over 20" don't really float my boat. The professional stuff is like 2x heavier for the same screen size, so anything professional over 20" is kind of a nightmare to move around in addition to being rare, expensive, and a major, major pain in the ass.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262040]

>>3261689
>mentions DE-15/VGA, but doesn't actually include it
>Includes D-Terminal, which has next to no use for retro consoles, aside from MAYBE PSP PS1 eboots
>complains about power being sent along the cable despite both of the above carrying DC voltage, the latter having up three with similar functions to SCART
Could really use some work.

[Anonymous No.3262089]

>>3261689
What about VCD?

[Anonymous No.3262095]

>>3261765
>Yeah, trinitrons have ruined me and I can't stand slot mask any more.

What's so good about aperture grille other than increased brightness?

[Anonymous No.3262103]

>>3262040
>complains about power being sent along the cable despite both of the above carrying DC voltage, the latter having up three
Except none of those carry voltage for the application described. They're between 3 and 5 conductors.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262118]

>>3262103
You yourself said the same could be done with SCART, and I can't see someone going and making custom D-Terminal cables unless MAYBE they have a FrameMeister, and even then I think that may only take the expected Component over that port.

Not even arguing against what you're saying, just that it needs work.

[Anonymous No.3262127]

>>3262118
It doesn't need work because that how it is.

SCART by the stnadards in 3rd world needs the power line to switch the 3rd world TVs from composite to RGB. Or maybe the other way around. I could not care at all to look that shit up. Just know it needs it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262169]

>>3262127
Aaaand in the application you're talking about(adapting SCART based RGB to non-SCART based devices), they're not required at all.

D-Terminal may not need voltage to switch between signals, but it does control aspect ratio in the same exact way as SCART, and in situations where the display itself has said input, for resolution and video mode(i/p) control.

If JP-21 wasn't a thing and it had more use with retro consoles, I wouldn't be surprise if someone started calling it weebSCART or something equally stupid just to be obnoxious.

And again, you didn't even include said DE-15/"HD15" VGA connector.

[Anonymous No.3262242]

>>3262095

I just don't like the zig-zag, bucktoothed look it gives.

I suppose it's also because it tends to be correlated with the cheapest possible sets and .79mm g-g pitch. I probably wouldn't object so much if they didn't have that diagonal offset or came in .21mm pitch.

[Anonymous No.3262280]

>>3262169
>Aaaand in the application you're talking about(adapting SCART based RGB to non-SCART based devices), they're not required at all.
SCART TVs need it. It is NEEDED by a that application. Most anything that uses SCART NEEDS the power line.

>If JP-21
JP 21 is very different to SCART.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262319]

>>3262280
We're (or at least I) am talking about people not in Europe that use/have used SCART for RGB access, not countries and electronics with "native" SCART support.
>(to NON-SCART based devices
In these situations, a SCART cable with pins 2, 6, 7, 11, 15, and 20 along with ground will function exactly the same, with 2 and 6 not being necessary should you decide to run audio separately.

JP-21 is the same connector with a very different (and at a glance, a much better chosen/organized) pinout.

[Anonymous No.3262338]

>>3262319
I'm not aware of much or anything really that uses SCART and doesn't need the power line.

>JP-21 is the same connector with a very different (and at a glance, a much better chosen/organized) pinout.
Same connector. Different standards. JP21 hasn't needed the power line in devices since the 90s and probably earlier.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262356]

>>3262338
>that uses SCART
Please re-read what I wrote a third time.
to NON-SCART based
Devices that use RGB, but do not have SCART. I.E, people with professional RGB monitors making use of SCART cables due to being plentiful and available.

>Same connector. Different standards.
Is exactly what I said.
I wasn't even commenting on the quality or capability of JP21 cables, simply that their existence keeps D-Terminal safe from being called weebSCART or some other ridiculous name, since it(JP21) matches SCART's physical appearance.

[Anonymous No.3262376]

>>3262356
>to NON-SCART based
Why would you use SCART to begin with?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262391]

>>3262376
The whole point here is that people do, have, and hypothetically use SCART in those situations, and that cutting down the number of conductors used can be done just the same with these cables as it can with better alternatives, i.e DE-15/VGA cables; In that case, a DB-9 would be more fitting, but still.

I don't get what you're having so much trouble understanding.
My original post was only pointing out that you chose to mention DE-15 in the post, but not in the image where it would have fit better than D-Terminal, which has little to no use for anything retro or CRT related with few exceptions,.
I've repeatedly said now that I'd like to go to DE-15/VGA or straight up BNC at some point.
Wasn't calling it shit, wrong, or anything else.

[Anonymous No.3262404]

>>3262391
>The whole point here is that people do
They’re ignorant, dumb, and or lazy.
>My original post was only pointing out that you chose to mention DE-15 in the post, but not in the image where it would have fit better than D-Terminal,
Because using a HD15 connector over simple RCA component makes sense? No it doesn’t. Not many devices had that either and if they did it was probably meant for breakout.
>I've repeatedly said now that I'd like to go to DE-15/VGA or straight up BNC at some point.
Either would be a better option than SCART.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262423]

>>3262404
>They’re ignorant, dumb, and or lazy.
Is not the point being argued. I'm giving an explanation here, not an excuse or even a reason for them to continue.
It can be done, and will increase quality over leaving things as is, but is not the best way to go about things

>HD15 connector over simple RCA component makes sense?
Why are you bringing up RCA component now? I said D-Terminal, as in the connector, not the signals it caries or otherwise. RCA connectors are "fine" as well, just there is absolutely no point in using D-Terminal when it will only lead to even more headaches than SCART, which at least has it's abundance going for it.
VGA has the same benefit of SCART in that it plentiful, and that it offers many conductors if needed in a compact form factor but isn't limiting in the cabling/coax size that can be used with it, and that it very much is good for breaking out to other connectors, as I would plan to do.
DE-15->4/5BNC+2RCA(or Phoenix Connector) would be the "simplest" one, but you could get absolutely stupid in the arrangements of different connectors and being broken out from it.

[Anonymous No.3262427]

>>3262423
>Why are you bringing up RCA component now? I said D-Termina
DTerminal for the application I stated in the picture would carry component.

Can’t comment on the breakout stuff. Don’t know the specifics.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262480]

>>3262427
Looking at the context your image, I missed the whole "format to connector" comparison somehow and suppose I can see what you mean, but it's still EXTREMELY unlikely that anyone is going to be using a D-Terminal to connect their DVD Player up to a given monitor unless they're using some stupidly high-end, Japanese only model, and that still has no real bearing on anything gaming related, which is the primary point of these threads.
Again, the only place you're liable to see a D-Terminal used for gaming is for 6th gen(and on possibly?) stuff, in which case just standard RCA based component cables are going to be infinitely more plentiful and cheaply acquired, with the single exception of the DOL-009 cable, where it and the DOL-010 are going to equally expensive and a bitch to get your hands on either way. And again, that's very grey area of "has retro applications but isn't itself retro".

[Anonymous No.3262489]

>>3260227
I didn't get a response to this, but it's kind of troubling me.
It doesn't really make sense that there would be motion blur or persistence with a CRT at all to me with my understanding. If the thing is throwing out 120 separate flashing images and no light in between, what is the actual image that I'm seeing?

[Anonymous No.3262494]

>>3262480
>EXTREMELY unlikely that anyone is going to be using a D-Terminal to connect their DVD Player up to a given monitor unless they're using some stupidly high-end, Japanese only model
That’s why I included it. While seeing very limited use it’s still a thing and equal to Component. For that application.

The list isn’t meant for retro applications. It’s meant for the generalization statements made by 3rd world inhabits about SCART being amazing and carrying all these signals. And more importantly these “people” thinking these formats used RGB and that SCART = RGB.

[Anonymous No.3262495]

>>3262489
I'm going vga to a vga to dvi adapter. Is it better to get a "super premium gold plated" vga cable off monoprice and still throw it into a vga><dvi dongle or a "pretty acceptable" monoprice cable with vga on one end and dvi on the other? I'm not used to cables not just being digital.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262504]

>>3262494
>The list isn’t meant for retro applications. It’s meant for the generalization statements
That's all the clarification that was/is needed.

>>3262489
>>3262495
>120 separate
So you're doing 240p@120hz then? By default, even with CRTs, you're going to get a ghosting effect; Using Black Frame Insertion to bring it back to a technical 60hz/frames of actual displayed content -should- fix the issue you're having.
Otherwise, could it just be that you're mistaking phosphor persistence as signal ghosting?

[Anonymous No.3262516]

>>3262504
I'm doing 1600x900 at 120 for doom, but 1920x1080 at 105 for regular gaming, 2048x1536 for regular gaming. I'm not sure how great it'd be for retro gaming since it's a real high-res monitor.
Black frame insertion would be kind of a bummer, since I'm looking at getting high frame rate motion clarity in modernish games, but it sounds like a good idea for emulation.
I definitely wouldn't be surprised if it was phosphor persistence. My mouse has separate image trails (with that setting off) which is what made me think of ghosting instead of persistence, but I'm just kind of using ghosting as a catch-all term for persistence.
Is phosphor persistence something that you can reduce, by chance? It doesn't really sound like it but I've been getting really really anal about the image I get out of this especially since I ditched all my LCDs to use this as my daily driver.

[Anonymous No.3262519]

>>3262516
>2048x1536 for regular gaming
I mean for desktop use, and at 75hz

[Anonymous No.3262528]

>>3261553
>KV-20FS100

If you're ever wondering if a sony CRT will lag, just look here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

Anything "super fine pitch" or "high scan" will lag. The 480i ones will not

>when I watch a melee tournament, and they're using a 480p sony CRT with the stream setup because they're easier to stream with

[Anonymous No.3262529]

>>3261665
Because for some reason only first two revisions of N64 PCB output csync to the AV port.

[Anonymous No.3262535]

>>3261441
Most definitely you will experience lag. My friend and I would play melee on my pvm then one day I decided to gift him a wii and melee. Hook it up to LCD and holy shit the lag was so terrible it almost makes the game boring. Make him get a CRT or only play at your house, laggy melee isn't fun.

Also
>getting two stocked
>git gud

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262541]

>>3262516
I assumed you were talking about emulation actually; Someone else will have to (hopefully) give you an answer, as that's about as far as I've went into high refresh scenarios; Most of the PC CRTs have had the "pleasure" of dealing with have been 70khz horizontal limited, and as such can only hit reasonable refresh rates at comparatively lower ones.
For example, my secondary monitor is doing 1152x864@75hz at the moment, since that's about the highest res you can get from it and still get something not eyestraining.
It's terribly when the oldest monitor you have is also the one capable of the highest theoretical resolutions and refresh rates: Megaview is 85khz horizontal and 120hz vertical.

>>3262528
Not perfect, but if they happened to be running component(i.e 480p) for it, they were still only looking at 2 or so frames of lag. "Unacceptable" in high level play, but still; Could be worse.

[Anonymous No.3262549]

>>3262541
Yeah, I'm always a little surprised at how little love the modern-ish CRT's get here, but I guess it is /vr/ after all. I just really lucked out on getting a good find of a Gateway VX1120 and a Dell Ultrascan 20TX in acceptable condition for $10 after using a crappy 15 inch monitor for emulation.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262564]

>>3262549
It's not that I don't want one, just that most things decent that come up nearby just tend to be either too far away, or have to high of an asking price for me to want to deal with.

There were a couple decent Blueberry Apple Studio displays that popped up (can't remember if they were 17'' or 21'') that I wanted to get at one point, but didn't manage to jump on quick enough.

There was a NEC/Mitsubishi that I almost grabbed, but an odd comment about blacks being reddish a bit of distance sort of put that down.

STILL debating whether to go grab that KD-30XS955

[Anonymous No.3262590]

>>3262564
ooo that thing looks pretty sexy. I'd love to get one for 1080i tv broadcasts at the very least

But gosh does it look heavy, and if you don't end up using it you're using up so much space just having it. I'd personally get it, but mommy would be mad as shit that I got ANOTHER big clunky CRT.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3262604]

>>3262590
It'd go in the attic where most of my other CRTs are currently hiding, and would likely replace my KV-27HS420. The built in digital tuner is one of the big bonus that would come along with it, amusingly. I've been wanting a way to watch TV up there, and wasn't informed we technically could have had a fourth box tossed in when we were switching dish companies recently. Only thing in the house otherwise with a working digital tuner is my flat screen.

Also the fact that it's free and "relatively" nearby is nice. If I thought there was anyway I could get it to somehow fit into the back of a Grand Prix, I'd go get it today.

[Anonymous No.3262614]

>>3262604
From the fact that I see you here in every thread, I'm sure you know way more than me about things like this, BUT....

Fucking get that shit dude. Godspeed you beautiful soul.

[Anonymous No.3262697]

>>3260219
>the FW900 doesnt accept 15Khz signals
not the point shithead

[Anonymous No.3262704]

>>3259739
Fake scanlines is upscaled resolution with black lines on top

Real scanlines are a bypdroduct of 240p being displayed natively on a CRT which has a phosphor optimized for 480i or higher resolution

The first draws black lines on top which means there's loss of information

The second one doesn't draw anything on top...it just draws 240 lines and skips the rest resulting in no loss of information

[Anonymous No.3262715]

>>3262489
>It doesn't really make sense that there would be motion blur or persistence with a CRT
There IS motion blur and persistence(though it's extremely minimal and unnoticeable) in every CRT ever made because of the Phosphor

Only display tech with zero persistence and zero motion blur is Laser Beam Scanning which is currently a very niche tech

[Anonymous No.3262723]

>>3262704
>The first draws black lines on top which means there's loss of information
from the computer's point of view the lines are drawn on top of the image, but in terms of what's actually happening on the monitor, it's the same as with real scan lines in that the electron guns just aren't drawing anything on the black sections. and the pixels are just being reduced in height, so no loss of information.

[Anonymous No.3262724]

>>3262516
A PC Monitor usually has Medium-long or Medium-short phosphor persistence(talking about 2ms to 1ms of blur here)...that shouldn't be problem

[Anonymous No.3262736]

>>3262724
So considering the fact that it's actually noticeable, wouldn't that basically mean that it isn't phosphor persistence?

[Anonymous No.3262838]

>>3262541
Oh kya i have a 70Khz CRT monitor too

I do 1280x960 at 69Hz its much better than 1440x1080 at 60Hz

I really cant tell the difference between 69 and 75 Hz

[Anonymous No.3262880]

>get another vga-bnc cable
>grounds aren't interconnected
why.pcx

[Anonymous No.3262883]

>>3262880
>>grounds aren't interconnected
>why.pcx
Probably because of star grounding.

[Anonymous No.3263027]

>>3262838
Try 800x600 at 100Hz

[Anonymous No.3263107]

Does displayport to VGA introduce lag?

[Anonymous No.3263108]

>>3262883
thankfuly, unlike the previous one, it doesn't do ghosting, even at 2560x1600.

[Anonymous No.3263153]

[Anonymous No.3263498]

>>3260897
Thanks for that, I'll be ordering one soon.

[Anonymous No.3263537]

CRT Friends, can you tell me about line doublers? If I run composite or s-video to a line doubler, I get a VGA out; that's rad if I get a VGA monitor, but what if I convert that to HDMI or DVI? What kind of lag are we talking about?

[Anonymous No.3263878]

>>3263537
More lag than I think it's worth. Are you trying to connect consoles to a LCD PC monitor?

[Anonymous No.3263972]

>>3263878
Thank you for the reply, anon. I was actually thinking a CRT VGA monitor (I have a PVM now but I think it's going to die eventually). Are composite/S-vid to VGA adapters the same situation? I don't use RGB (I like my consoles un-modded), so I'm just looking for a low-lag solution.

[Anonymous No.3264009]

>>3263537
A true line doubler will have no lag, 2ms or less.

[Anonymous No.3264043]

Look, I finally found something in parents' bedroom besides condom wrappings.

Is it from 1987 or am I an idiot?

[Anonymous No.3264048]

>>3264043
If it can accept 50 and 60 hz probably not?

[Anonymous No.3264058]

>>3264043
nah, that might be just that it complies with some 1987 law.

According to
http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_colour_television_t55_640_oirt.html

it was built in 1994... or at least it was in production in 1994.

[Anonymous No.3264104]

>>3264048
>>3264058
Aw shit. 1994 doesn't seem bad either though

What do you guys think? Pretty good for free, no?

[Anonymous No.3264135]

nooblet here. I want something better than composite from my model 2 genesis. S-video is usually enough for my budget. Should I try to mod it or just suck it up and buy a model 1? Most of the guides I've found are for model 1.

[Anonymous No.3264219]

>>3263972

They make some PC monitors which can sync to 15khz. Typically they don't go very high up in resolution though.

Most retro stuff can do RGB natively btw. Of the stuff that I care about (NES, SMS, SNES, Genesis, PSX, N64) only the NES and N64 require mods, and the n64 is real simple.

[Anonymous No.3264223]

>>3264135

Do you have an RGB monitor? RGB scart cables are like $8-25, depending on if you need the sync stripper or not.

I use an RGB Scart cable w/sync stripper into a SCART to BNC adapter and it looks fucking epic. I did some side-by-side comparisons with the RF I used to use and it's like a whole new console.

[Anonymous No.3264240]

>tfw just popped my RGB cherry

It looks so fucking good. Worth all of the money and trouble. Jesus fucking christ I can't believe how good it looks.

Only thing I don't like is how small pvms are, I can't decide how far or close I want to sit to the screen. I thought the curve would bother me but it doesn't really, though I would still prefer a flatscreen if I can manage to find a bvm or something.

[Anonymous No.3264248]

>>3264240

What model did you get?

If you have $800 ish to blow you could try one of those used CRT projectors. One of my goals is to some day play life-size time crisis, I don't care if it's dim as shit

[Anonymous No.3264250]

>>3264248

PVM-20M2MDU

A projector sounds interesting, i'll look into it.

[Anonymous No.3264303]

>>3264219
I'm mainly a Famicom collector now, all my other stuff is 100s of miles away in storage at my brothers. So if I just got a composite to VGA adapter, like one of those ones for $25 on Amazon, would that be actually playable on a random VGA CRT monitor? Basically FC or PCE composite to VGA on a CRT monitor? I had an ultra shitty converter one I used in college for playing PS1 on my 2007 era LCD monitor (in widescreen, I don't want to talk about it) but I remember it being pretty playable, don't think I ever tried anything 8-bit on it.

[Anonymous No.3264306]

How does a mid-90's 27" Trinitron consumer TV with s-video compare to using s-video on a Trinitron PVM?

[Heaven No.3264307]

>>3264250

>PVM-20M2MDU

Yeah, the medical monitors seem to be great if you're okay with 15khz-only (all you need for /vr/ anyways). They seem like they're more likely to have used a few hours a week for surgeries etc and not 24/7 blasting a timecode into the screen like lots of BVM were.

I'm tolerating my 14" BVM just fine for the most part, but it's a unique situation where it's on top of a tall desk and I pull my recliner literally until the arm rests are touching the desk. That's for sixth-gen stuff though, SNES games work fine at a more 'reasonable' distance of 4 feet from eyes to monitor.

My consumer 20" seems to have enough size that I can actually kick the footrest up and have the tv at my toes and still have a big enough image to play comfortably. Definitely still most suited for a 1 person 'man cave' type setup though, not really gf/wife friendly at all.

Pics of your setup?

[Anonymous No.3264313]

>>3264223
well, I have an american consumer-grade TV with component in, and another with s-video in. I don't have any RGB setups (yet?) nor any high-end PVM type stuff.

PS1 games look great on PS2 with component in 240p, but that's the best I have right now aside from emulated stuff like Wii VC.

[Heaven No.3264325]

>>3264303

Depends on your personal lag tolerance. I have no idea how much lag those things have. Maybe you'll get lucky and find a properly made one with ~2ms, maybe you'll get a chink special with a full framebuffer and 200ms.

PS1 games are typically laggy as hell and clunky controls, so the added lag doesn't really make a difference. You may find the lag makes NES platformers that require precise timing a bit more difficult.

Are you primarily budget-constrained or space-constrained? Will you be using the VGA CRT monitor for anything else?

[Anonymous No.3264332]

>>3264306
Well, a 27" PVM would be an absolute nightmare, so if you're capping out a S-Vid anyway and you want that size, a consumer Trinitron is an excellent choice.

[Anonymous No.3264340]

>>3264325
I have a 14" PVM right now, and that's pretty much the absolute biggest I can go. It's dope, but it's got some minor issues I think are going to grow, and I can't find anyone to repair it in my area. I'm just thinking for the future, I work at a college and can obtain VGA CRT monitors really easily. I should probably just save for a Framemeister and use my Vizio though.

[Anonymous No.3264352]

>>3264306

So long as your Trinitron is not an HD-compatible one, not much of a difference.

The colors are deeper and more vibrant, with much more visible scanlines. Also the PVMs tend to have a much higher horizontal resolution, but retro basically maxes out at 320 horizontal pixels in-game so you'll only see a slight crispness boost. 480i (some 5th-gen menu screens, FMV) will get a bit easier to read.

The fact you specify "S-Video" makes me think you're talking about N64, in which case it's not really worth the upgrade (even if RGB modding it).

I notice the strongest differences with 4th gen stuff (colors, crispness) and 6th gen (lagless, good-looking 480p). With 5th gen stuff SoTN gets a huge boost and OoT gets a deep-blue sky but everything else looks basically the same.

You get a much bigger boost if you're moving from some .79mm slot mask, composite-only abomination. There's also the tradeoff that PVMs are much more expensive per inch per-inch than consumer stuff, so most people end having to go with something much smaller.

[Anonymous No.3264357]

>>3264340

What issues does the PVM have? What are you studying?

[Anonymous No.3264441]

>>3264357
It's got some faint lines going on when solid colors are on screen, and the very top-right-hand corner is slightly darker than the rest of the screen. If I tap the side of the casing it kind of 'flickers' specifically in that spot. It's totally usable currently, I use is daily, but I have a feeling it's only going to get worse, especially if I have to move with it. I actually work in IT at a college, I graduated in 2011 but I studied songwriting while I was there.

[Anonymous No.3264474]

>>3264441

Well, I'd probably just try to pick up another one (or five) while they're still reasonably available. It seems apparent we're on an upward price trend.

Moving with one's not so bad, as long as moving means just loading things into your car or a rented van. If 'moving' means cross-country for you then yeah, expensive, nerve-racking pain in the ass shipping these fuckers.

Myself, I've got seven of various sizes stockpiled at my parents' house.

[Anonymous No.3264476]

>>3264352
You can push more horizontal lines than 320 from a retro game. 384, 400, whatever. It's all how you juggle the horizontal and vertical sync. 320x240p is exactly 60fps vertical sync, for instance. But Mortal Kombat pushes 399x254 at 53.something fps. R-Type runs at 384x256p@55fps.

[Anonymous No.3264497]

>>3264476

Are you talking about arcade boards, or home console hardware?

I was under the impression that home console stuff was pretty much locked to 50 or 60 hz (59.94)

[Anonymous No.3264584]

13 inch PVM-1353MD for $150. No details on usage other than some minor cosmetic defects. Good deal or nah?

[Anonymous No.3264586]

>>3264497
You can push 240p RGB signals at whatever sync rates you want to a CRT monitor (PVM etc.) so it doesn't just have to be an arcade board. crt_emudriver represent.

[Anonymous No.3264632]

>>3264584
Not really a good deal no

[Anonymous No.3264634]

Someone sell me a broadcast monitor in Toronto please (downtown)

I've been looking for almost 2 years for a decent one and they've either all been snatched up under my nose, or have been shitty. I had a decent one but the red gun died a few weeks later.

[Anonymous No.3264649]

>>3264632
Any reason? Is that a poor model, or is it just that it's a smaller size?

[Anonymous No.3264650]

>>3264584

Eh. My rules of thumb are

$100 (inc. shipping) for a 15khz 13" or 14",
$200 shipped for a multiscan $13/14,
$250 shipped for a 15khz 20"
~$500 shipped for a 20" multiscan

Those prices including shipping/gas+value of time driving. Also assuming the monitor has unknown hours/ very slight burn-in or screen scratches.

Add in a 30-60% multiplier if it's mint, the seller can prove it's low hours, recently calibrated, and/or you want it NOW rather than waiting.

13"/14"s 15khz are pretty common. Only stuff you might need to jump on are 20"+ multiscans, 16:9s or 27" and up behemoths, since those don't come up as often.

[Anonymous No.3264676]

My PVM has a green tint on the top right corner that seems to go away after a little bit. It's only noticable on blue screens (the VCR screen is the only time I notice it). This just recently started and there's nothing magnetic near it. What could this be? Is this fixable?

[Anonymous No.3264689]

>>3264676

It's a 20L5 if that makes a difference.

[Anonymous No.3264695]

How much CRT are harmful? I have read they are kinda risky, what are /vr/ knownledge and experiences about this?

[Anonymous No.3264698]

>>3264695

What? I'm 30 years old and I'm still alive despite using CRTs for my entire life.

[Anonymous No.3264739]

>>3264474
I actually have another I saved from work stocked away on my desk, it's a low-end Panasonic though, 10". It's composite only, but it's not bad. My favorite CRT that I have stashed away is an early 80's sears roebuck turn-knob TV set with fake plastic wood sides. It's RF only (twin lead) but I love it, I used it all through college and made sure to store it away when I packed up all my stuff at my parents' a couple years ago. Sorry for the life story; pic semi-related, mine's more rad.

[Anonymous No.3264746]

>>3264695
Your cell phone is as bad or worse for you.

[Anonymous No.3264762]

>>3264695
You're gonna get eye cancer and fucking die, bro.

[Anonymous No.3264804]

>>3262528
>Anything "super fine pitch" or "high scan" will lag. The 480i ones will not
Depends on what signal you feed it. 240p and 480i will lag

[Anonymous No.3264805]

>>3264739
How are samsung CRTs anyway? I know that those slim HD ones they put out right before CRTs were supplanted by flatscreens are awful, but aside from those, how are they?

[Anonymous No.3264840]

>>3264804

hi were is the proofs

[Anonymous No.3264956]

Babby first crt here. Found a white Panasonic TV VCR combo with the FM radio at a thrift store for 5$. Tried plugging it in met with a whirring noise and met with a blinking green light on the program time. What do?

[Anonymous No.3264978]

>>3264956
Does the TV itself come on? I'd imagine the whirring noise is the VCR and not the tube itself.

[Anonymous No.3264984]

>>3264978
Unfortunately, the tv does not turn on. It looks too good to die.

[Anonymous No.3265134]

>>3264804
Those lag even more on those sets.

[Anonymous No.3265193]

>>3264584
>TFW I won two 20" PVMs for $70 from an auction an anon posted here.
>I only barely decided I wanted to get into retro-CRT-gaming a couple weeks or so before this.

I say wait it out for a better deal. Do some searching locally, or maybe something will crawl into your lap like it did for me.

[Anonymous No.3265297]

>>3253787
Would any owner happen to have images of their 15-19" 'softer' professional monitors?

[Anonymous No.3265413]

so will I need some sort of scaler/active adapter to convert S-video/composite to VGA? I've got no room in my room for a CRT TV, but I do still have an old Gateway CRT sitting downstairs that still works fine.

[Anonymous No.3265447]

>>3264649
I'm looking for 14" at the very minimum, but I would prefer 20". Most of the models I've seen around are either older/smaller, or lacking RGB, or something else wrong with them I prefer to get one with component as well but it's not necessary

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3265497]

>>3265413
>convert S-video/composite to VGA?
If you want to use that monitor, RGB cables and a line doubler would be a better course of action.

>>3262541
>>3262549
>just noticed two Mitsu 2070SB rebadges for sale locally

[Anonymous No.3265551]

Are there any BVM users here that have downgraded to a lesser crt, due to the overly sharp picture that the BVM gave?

[Anonymous No.3265609]

>>3264956
is there a tv/vcr button or switch?

[Anon-ee-mouse No.3265650]

>>3265497
Shapeshifter by LemonFont man? Really? Faye is cute in all, but now we know what kind of kinky shit you're into... and subsequently, what I'm into.

Damn, I gave myself away.

[Anonymous No.3265673]

>>3265650
>Shapeshifter by LemonFont man
I just googled this, you two are fucking sick.

Thank god, I thought it was all normies on this board with all the neet bashing and /pol/ language.

[Anonymous No.3265701]

>>3265551
No, I will not trade you my D20F1U for your Magnet Box CRT.

[Anonymous No.3265705]

>>3264695
As much as 10 bananas a year
SEEK SHELTER

[Anonymous No.3265707]

>>3263027
why?

[Anon-ee-mouse No.3265732]

>>3265673
It's not entirely bad...

[Anonymous No.3265740]

>>3265609
Nope. Refer to the link it's basically like mine sans the red demo sticker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-PV-C2031W-20-TV-VHS-VCR-COMBO-CRT-COLOR-TELEVISION-GAMING-RECORDER-FM-/222115240274

[Anonymous No.3265768]

>>3265701
Post an image

[Anonymous No.3265804]

So I turned old family Grundig on some random tv channels to see if it still works and looking at the big bright pictures, like white walls in the background of movies, is kinda unpleasant. It pulsates really fast, like it would flash too quick to see it clearly but slow enough to notice.

It's not like it's unbearable to watch but it could be tiring after looking at the screen for some time. I think the screen just refreshes too slow. I'm not supposed to notice that right? Could that be fault of the tv channel's refresh rate or is there something wrong with CRT itself?

Also, since there's no analogue tv signal anymore here, it uses dvb-t receiver, so maybe that's the problem

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3265881]

>>3265650
>>3265673
I mean, I'm sure I could find something worse to post if you'd prefer.

[Anonymous No.3265882]

>>3265804
Sounds like its running at 50Hz but im not sure if just games were at 50Hz in PAL land or recievers/movies too?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3265891]

>>3265804
Sounds like 50hz flicker to me.

>>3265882
Games were in 50hz because the television system was based around 50hz already; In my very small experience with screwing around with 50hz modes in things, it seems like it would be much more bearable in a progressive arrangement like 288p than an interlaced one such as normal television.

>>3265650
>>3265673
I mean, I'm sure I could find something worse to post if you'd prefer.

[Anonymous No.3265903]

>>3265768
you've seen them, but i'll post the best i've taken on it

i've been busy with the wife, OUR son and OUR newborn daughter, or i'd take more pictures.

hell, i haven't even been in the same room as my d20 in a month.

[Anonymous No.3265904]

>>3265903

[Anonymous No.3265946]

Hey don't take this the wrong way but some of you should get day jobs doing this stuff

[Anonymous No.3265951]

>>3265705
one year of gaming on CRT=10 bananas or one session=10 bananas?

[Anonymous No.3265960]

>>3265903
May I ask how many hours?

[Anonymous No.3265963]

>>3265946
It would hardly pay, and most operators literally don't care enough to maintain their machines

[Anonymous No.3265967]

>>3265903
>>3265904
>perfect convergence

Anon you don't know how good you got it.
Dont tell me you shipped it and it arrived with perfect convergence.
>>3265946
What stuff? No one is interested in getting their CRT repaired these days. They chunked it long ago.
>>3265951
One year of using a CRT monitor= 10 bananas worth of radiation

Using a CRT monitor for one year is 1/40th of the amount of radiation received from a flight from new york to los angelos

[Anonymous No.3266034]

>>3265967
>One year of using a CRT monitor= 10 bananas worth of radiation

would be nice if xkcd provided the amount of time of daily use that is implied here

[Anonymous No.3266050]

>>3265960
60,000+
>>3265967
EBay best offer, had them double box and pad it beyond what they probably have ever done before. UPS Ground. I was pretty worried, but it only had to travel a couple states over.

I don't even use it anymore. Damn family.

[Anonymous No.3266280]

On a PVM, are the geometry settings for each resolution/mode independent of one another or will adjusting the geometry for one affect the geometry for all resolution/modes? I'm using a 20L5. I want to adjust the geometry for 480p because there's a bend on one corner, but I don't want to mess up the 240p/480i geometry.

[Anonymous No.3266283]

Having problems with RGB from Megadrive II to BVM, pic related is about as good as it gets...

Should I return the cable? Had no problems with other systems into this monitor and RF out is fine (crap). Also, the cable does have caps and resistors but I'm not too confident about the quality of wiring - will post a pic if you like.

[Anonymous No.3266291]

>>3266283
This is what the inside of the SCART looks like.

Any obvious issues?

[Anonymous No.3266338]

>>3266034
8 hour work day

[Anonymous No.3266340]

>>3266291
I see a few problems
- cheap aftermarket cable with zero shielding, you'll never get good quality image with that
- one of the pins look broken, but it might be just the cables covering it up.
- rightmost pin (for the red channel, the cable is yellow coloured) looks like it has the capacitor in reverse polarity, but again this could be just because I can't see it properly on the picture.
- since none of the components are heat shrink tubed, there's a chance that they may accidentally touch each other when you close the cable.
- BVMs take c-sync input instead of composite video, as I recall (I'm not sure about this, but it would explain your sync problems)

[Anonymous No.3266345]

>>3265804
>>3265882
It's most likely the interlacing and not the 50hz alone, that makes the screen looks like it is vibrating. 50hz flicker would only hurt if you were playing games that use very frequent flashing images (like a full playthrough of Vectorman). Otherwise it is bearable.

Interlacing will not be an issue in 240p games, unless you play stuff that runs in hi res interlaced.

[Anonymous No.3266378]

Has anyone used Emerson sets? I found one but Im on vacation and don't want to haul a piece of junk 8 hours home

[Anonymous No.3266435]

Are gook set like samsung and daewoo any good? Or should I stick with japanese sets?

[Anonymous No.3266449]

>>3265551

Only thing I'm slightly unsatisfied with is N64, the giant scanlines don't really help the image. SNES, Genesis, PS1, non-/vr/ 480p stuff looks fucking ebin.

I might look into picking up a true line doubler (once I RGB mod) or a softer arcade monitor for the N64. No way I'm ditching my BVMs though.

[Anonymous No.3266462]

>>3266283

Your number 1 issue looks like a sync problem - try using a sync stripper to clean it up. You can make these yourself for $5 with an LM1881, buy a little board you solder into the SCART ($$) or you can just buy them premade in the cable ($$$) if you don't know how.

My BVM is much pickier about sync than my PVMs are.

Number 2 is it looks like you're not getting ANY red signal at all. If you can get the red gun to fire normally on other systems/inputs then check the cable.

I have SCART cables that are unshielded and it doesn't make a visible difference to me. Might depend on your local RF environment.

[Anonymous No.3266467]

>>3266378

Probably not worth hauling it home. That'd only be worth it for a PVM/BVM/ other brand professional monitor.

Consumer stuff can be found pretty much anywhere.

[Anonymous No.3266474]

Dumb question but how do I convert SCART to Component? All the converters I see are SCART to HDMI and I don't want that.

[Anonymous No.3266487]

>>3266474

Looks like they're about $50 + shipping. No mention of whether it's completely analog or if there's a (laggy) framebuffer/deinterlacing path. If you're using a consumer set, it's unlikely you'll notice a difference between S-video and converted component.

S-video is key because you break out luminance from chroma. You get full luma resolution, so sharp edges, and decoupling luma from chroma takes out that weird yellow and purple jizz on the edges of black and white text.

S-video has both chrominance channels combined onto one wire, whereas component has them on separate wires. You gain some chroma resolution and depth, but you're not likely to notice unless you're looking at red-green or blue-orange test patterns.

If your tv doesn't take s-video but will take component then it might be worth it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851

[Anonymous No.3266515]

>>3266340
>>3266462
Thanks guys. I think this cable is basically crap all round. Might just spring for one from retrogamingcables.co.uk.

On the subject of sync, the MD2 already outputs clean c-sync on one of the mini-din pins so I'll just have to make sure the cable is wired up to use that rather than cvbs. No sync stripper required if I'm understanding this correctly.

That said I'm pretty sure I heard Phonedork say that the BVM-20F1 - which is what I have btw - would accept basically every type of sync imaginable?

[Anonymous No.3266520]

>>3266515
>BVM-20F1 - which is what I have btw - would accept basically every type of sync imaginable?
my d20f1u likes most syncs i've sent its way

hell, before i got a proper HV sync converter i just tied H and V together for 480p with a bnc T adapter.

it showed up almost fine, had a weird, almost stretchy upper left corner though.

now, my inline bnc switch, that fucker hates composite video for sync

[Anonymous No.3266523]

>>3266515

Is this the first RGB+sync console you've tried to plug in?

You might just have to adjust some settings.

Go to Menu->Format-> and make sure FORMAT is set to RGB. Then make sure "EXT SYNC" is set to the same slot as your input board (SLOT 3) for me. Finally you may need to press some buttons on the left side, on my BVM-D14H5U I have to press SHIFT then SYNC in order to turn on external sync.

[Anonymous No.3266540]

What does it mean when the picture has a slight horizontal shake?

Some of my monitors are worse than others, but all the 14" and up ones have a noticeable bit of glitching when I get in real close (<10cm).

How can I isolate this to my source/cables/monitor itself? Anyone here ever fixed a horizontal shake to the point it became rock-solid?

[Anonymous No.3266554]

>>3266291
The main issue is that it's SCART.

[Anonymous No.3266556]

>>3266523
I've had no problems with PlayStation and PS2 but I think those output sync on luma? Tried everything menu-wise and even took the "sync" cable and tried setting it up on slot 2 as a plain composite input as that's what it appears to be carrying.

No luck so far.

[Anonymous No.3266558]

>>3266554
Bugger off.

[Anonymous No.3266582]

>>3266462
>I have SCART cables that are unshielded and it doesn't make a visible difference to me. Might depend on your local RF environment.

Unshielded scart will have the video bleed into the audio and vica versa, and unless the mute it the TV will sound like it has a swarm of angry wasps inside. Twice as loud when the screen turns white.

You may also get image rollover too.

[Anonymous No.3266589]

>>3266515
iirc the c-sync output by the megadrive is open drain and may damage the video chip if used as an output. There is a mod to replace it with the c-sync as output by the video encoder, but that will kill 32x compatibility.

[Anonymous No.3266596]

>>3266515

I use this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-seller-Genesis-2-32X-CDX-RGB-SCART-cable-boosted-sync-and-RCA-audio-lead-/161733965039

but it sounds like you're a britbong. Try to find a cable with "boosted sync" or "clean sync" or something like that.

You can also get ($$$) Scart to BNC adapters that have the sync stripper built in.

[Anonymous No.3266604]

>>3266582

>this guy thinks he knows my fucking setup better than I do

>video bleeding into audio

Don't use absolute-trash quality speakers and they'll low pass anything below 22khz anyways.

[Anonymous No.3266612]

>>3266604
>Implying good speakers color your sound
>Implying you know anything about audio

[Anonymous No.3266617]

>>3266589
No mention of any risk of damage here:

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/composite-video-vs-composite-sync

Just that csync requires different wiring. They sell such a cable which is what I was planning on ordering. Trying to avoid an LM1881 solution if at all possible.

[Anonymous No.3266620]

>>3266612

>these speakers allow me to hear the faintest of bat's cries

are you one of those 96khz memers?

[Anonymous No.3266628]

>>3266589
Found the source you mentioned:

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/the-csync-on-genesis.53583/

Fuck I thought this was going to be a simpler solution than getting emulated content into my BVM. Looks like I was ill-informed...

[Anonymous No.3266634]

>>3266620
By no means, anon. The whole point of 'good' monitors is that they don't color the sound at all. Only cheap consumer-grade junk has filters and EQs built in.

[Anonymous No.3266669]

>>3266634

>22khz low-pass
>coloring the sound

what the fuck am I reading

[Anonymous No.3266675]

>>3266280

Anybody?

[Anonymous No.3266761]

>>3266280
>one corner

Im not sure about the settings carrying over but if its 1 corner it wont help you much anyway
Those settings affect all corners at once.

[Anonymous No.3266770]

>>3266515

Hmm, just did some tests and my 14D5HU accepts composite video as sync after all.

I think your cable is just fucked.

[Anonymous No.3266776]

>>3266761

I was able to get it fixed by adjusting a couple things on the other modes. It's only still like that when I play games in 480p mode.

[Anonymous No.3266797]

>>3266280

Anyone got a good guide to adjusting geometry on a PVM or BVM?

My PVM and BVM both have a small ~0.5" section on the left hand side of the screen where things get 'smaller' when horizontally scrolling. It may be very closely followed by a section where things get 'bigger' horizontally, it's hard to tell.

I find it very strange that it's located in approximately the same place on both monitors. It's also very strange to me that it's asymmetrical - things on the right hand side of the screen scroll perfectly.

pls advise

[Anonymous No.3266897]

>>3266770
Yeah I've tried it on three displays now - BVM, Samsung HD LCD and Pioneer Kuro Plasma - and none of them will give me a stable image. The Sammy flat out refuses to acknowledge any signal on the scart input whatsoever. Back to the drawing board I guess.

On a positive note I've been having a blast playing MAME Galaxy Force II at 3840x240 on my PC CRT so that was a welcome distraction.

[Anonymous No.3266912]

>>3266897

What modeline did you use to get that to work?

[Anonymous No.3266986]

>>3266912
Just set it up as a custom resolution in Intel Graphics and Media Control Panel then it was selectable in MAMEUI64 (yes I'm a pleb who can't much be arsed with CLIs and config files)

3840x240@60hz with GTF timing worked a treat on my Thinkpad X220 into an IBM P260 monitor over VGA.

Crap pic related.

[Anonymous No.3267003]

>>3266986

hmm...

I may need to reconsider my freetard ways. Currently posting from an x200 with lubuntu. I've been trying to get it to work @ 240p with my PVM but I haven't got a good image yet. Ordered a cheap Extron and we'll see if that works.

I donated my last old CRT monitor to charity a few years ago like a fucking pleb, and within the past ~6 months all the thrift stores around me stopped stocking them. Literally can't even find them on craigslist either, downside of living in a nice area.

What's your sync setup?

[Anonymous No.3267047]

My RGB modded PC Engine on a PVM 8044Q.

[Anonymous No.3267053]

Repost.
The last pic didn't turn out so well.
Again RGB PC Engine on a PVM 8044Q.

[Anonymous No.3267062]

>>3267003
I went down much the same route, Extron RGB 580xi, but couldn't get it to work.

I have a VSC 500 too which does the trick...sort of. It's a work-in-progress.

Sync for the setup pictured was good old RGBHV. Is that what you were asking?

[Anonymous No.3267064]

>>3267053

Nice. Using it as a desk tv?

Also post some N64 pics if you've got one

[Anonymous No.3267413]

What color temperature and contrast/brightness/chroma/phase settings do you run, /crt/?

Do you aim for 'accuracy', or subjective preference?

[Anonymous No.3267450]

>>3267064
Yeah using it as a desktop monitor, no N64 yet sadly. But I'm planning on it soon.

[Anonymous No.3267547]

>>3266487
Thanks, I guess I'll stick with S-Video then.

What's a good brand of cables to get for systems like N64 and Dreamcast?

[Anonymous No.3267558]

>>3267547

N64: http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-best-S-video-cable-for-Nintendo-SNES-N64-Game-Cube-Svideo-SVHS-1-8m-6ft-/131782319627

Most important thing is to never, EVER buy an s-video cable that also has a composite cable alongside it. For some reason those dumb motherfuckers just wire the s-video luma pin straight to composite and you get horrible checkerboard.

No idea about the saturn

[Anonymous No.3267560]

>>3267558
>literally called "The Best S-Video Cable"
Sounds legit

[Anonymous No.3267641]

>>3267558
What about switches? Do those carry the S-Video signal reliably?

[Anonymous No.3267643]

>>3267558
I've got an old Mad Catz cable where things are wired up straight.

[Anonymous No.3267903]

>>3267003
>Le humblebrag

Fight me fag

[Anon-ee-mouse No.3267985]

>>3265891
>>3265650
I figure you can, but this ain't /b/. We don't stoop to that level.

[Anonymous No.3268020]

>>3265497
What line doubler or device can I use to go from RGBs/15khz to VGA/31khz that isn't one of those expensive scalers?

Looking for something lag free as well...

[Anonymous No.3268025]

>>3268020
>What line doubler or device can I use to go from RGBs/15khz to VGA/31khz that isn't one of those expensive scalers?
XRGB-3. Not made anymore but some sellers still have stock.

[Anonymous No.3268050]

>>3268025
Doesn't that qualify as an 'expensive scaler'?

[Anonymous No.3268073]

>>3268050
Its main use is as a line doubler in b1 mode. Scaleing is ok on it.

You said you wanted 31khz over RGBHV. XRGB3 is basically made for that.

[Anonymous No.3268076]

>>3268020
you cant get lag free without it being expensive

this has 2 frames of lag
probably the best youll get at this pricepoint
http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/cga2vga-Scaler-PCB::13.html

[Anonymous No.3268104]

>tfw finally got a Sony PVM 20M2U for $30
Now I have to buy some PS2 Component cables and BNC to RCA connectors before my copy of Gundam vs Zeta Gundam shows up.

[Anonymous No.3268142]

>>3268076
So that's probably my best bet for connecting my arcade stuff to a pc crt, huh? Reason for not wanting to spend too much now is that I want to get the OSSC eventually, but still want a 15khz setup for my arcade/mame stuff. Wish I could find a nice 15khz monitor already.

[Anonymous No.3268197]

>>3268142
You wont have scanlines with it if thats what youre asking.

[Anonymous No.3268759]

>>3268020
xrgb-3 is nearly lag free in linedoubling mode

but its $$

gets a gbs 8200 from jamma boards, mod for rgb scart and throw in an slg from ebay

if you want even better picture/etc install custom firmware with a raspberry pi, info on shmups

[Anonymous No.3268813]

dirty PV-1341 for $65

is this a ripoff?

[Anonymous No.3268821]

>>3268197
Why wouldn't I get scanlines on a pc crt with a line doubler?

[Anonymous No.3268827]

>>3268813
rear

[Anonymous No.3268869]

Whenever there's a bright color on-screen on my TV, it crushes the darker colors and makes them appear black. The best example of this is the cutscenes in Persona 3, which have a dark blue border. Whenever there's something with a lot of bright colors happening in the scene, it turns the border black. What do I need to change to correct this?

Also is there any way to blow out your tube or damage the TV by changing shit in the service menu?

[Anonymous No.3269035]

>>3268813
>>3268827

$65, takes RGBs + S-video + composite.

YPbPr would be nice but you only really need that for non /vr/, 480p stuff.

I'd go for it. Just make sure to test the inputs you plan on using before you hand over the money, make sure there's no deal-killers for you. Main things you CAN'T fix are phosphor burn in, scratches on the glass, or dead tubes (red, green, or blue is missing), so make sure you can live with the burn-in and scratches and you get all three colors on screen.

Stuff like geometry, convergence, purity etc can mostly be fixed if you're the handy type.

[Anonymous No.3269073]

>>3269035
thanks. i just got excited because I've never seen a PVM show up (chicago). I dont have any BNC cables yet, as I was waiting to find a monitor first, but that means now I cant test it... I could wait around during the summer to see if one shows up I guess

[Anonymous No.3269120]

Uploaded two books for you /crt/. Maybe you will find something interesting there

Broadcast Engineer's Reference Book
my.mixtape.moe/jqkhqz.pdf

Video Demystified.
my.mixtape.moe/lfofnj.pdf

[Anonymous No.3269126]

>>3269120
thx for sharing man, appreciate it

[Anonymous No.3269129]

>>3269120
Cool, thanks!

[Anonymous No.3269172]

Heads up for anyone in parts of the UK who can't find a decent CRT - there are new-old-stock Maxim 15" flat-screen CRTs on ebay with free next-day postage. About £40 each. They do RGB SCART and 60Hz, but no S-Video.

It's no PVM, but you could do a whole lot worse.

[Anonymous No.3269179]

>>3269172
Link?

[Anonymous No.3269189]

You guys, I think I fucked up.

I wanted a miniature CRT for desktop usage just to play some RGB Genesis games and managed to talk a guy down to $155 from $400 for a Sony Trinitron BVM-D9H5U

Now that I look at the documentation it says 480i/p support but I don't see 240p on there. Attached is a picture of the inputs, I can use Y/Pb/Pr for RGB right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281680418729?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Anonymous No.3269192]

>>3269189
If it's 480i it will support 240p, 240p is basically 480i except it only draws odd or even lines (which is what creates scanlines).

[Anonymous No.3269206]

man getting into RGB is expensive

[Anonymous No.3269219]

>>3269206
There is cheaper one sold by "coolnovelties" on ebay.

[Anonymous No.3269229]

>>3268104
literally how

[Anonymous No.3269254]

>>3269073

You can go to radio shack right now and pay $8 (!!!) for a female RCA to male BNC adapter. This will at least let you test the composite ("video") input which will let you see the tube's health.

It is possible to have dead Y/C or RGB inputs but that's pretty rare, so if the set looks good with composite it will probably look great with RGB.

[Anonymous No.3269261]

>>3269189

Yr okay, buddy

480i is exactly the same as 240p as far as the tv is concerned, it's just what the source sends that's different.

Those inputs will accept either YPbPr or RGBs, you just have to change some settings around in the menu when switching between the two.

[Anonymous No.3269265]

How do I know which yoke to adjust to fix my convergence problem?

The videos I was watching on youtube only had one yoke, they must have been consumer sets. I got my PVM-20L5 opened up right now and there's literally six yokes I can adjust, two at the very back of the tube, and two pairs closer to the front.

Trying to fix the issue where all three guns start out aligned on the left side of the tube but then the red droops low and the blue drifts high as the line moves toward the right side of the screen.

[Anonymous No.3269273]

>>3269265
Yoke =/= rings.
the service manual usually tells which does what and in what order to adjust them.

[Anonymous No.3269337]

>>3269179
Too lazy to post the full link but do a search for 131483355673

Be interesting to find out who the tube oem for these is

[Anonymous No.3269427]

>>3269229
Being persistent and living in commiefornia helps.

[Anonymous No.3269529]

>>3269189
You dun goofed, anon. BVM-D9H5U is for 16:9 - yer sanic will look extra tiny. Look for a PVM 8045Q or 8044Q; or the BVM 8045Q for that matter.

[Anonymous No.3269554]

>>3269189
I mean it was used by NASA, that's pretty cool on its own.

[Anonymous No.3269568]

>>3269529

Do they make 4:3 masks for it?

I thought it was just a 4:3 tube with a 16:9 mask in front of it.

[Anonymous No.3269572]

>>3269568
>I thought it was just a 4:3 tube with a 16:9 mask in front of it.
it is.

[Anonymous No.3269675]

>>3262089
I would presume composite, they are worse quality than DVDs and LaserDiscs, but theoretically better than VHS.

[Anonymous No.3269712]

>>3258345
Just smash it with a sledgehammer.

Apple products are faggot crap that have always been unfit for gaming.

[Anonymous No.3269758]

>>3269712
Plenty of Apple gear has been good for gaming over the past 2 decades, especially their monitors. That poster you're harassing for no reason has a pretty nice CRT and is just looking for some advice (you know, in the thread where people ask for advice and chat about their CRTs). Stop being such an asshat and fuck off back to /r/PCGamingMasterRace if you're not going to say anything useful, no one wants to hear your parroted bullshit.

Not to mention that Apple has made some pretty 'fit' hardware for gaming (Have you ever heard of the Apple II?), but you wouldn't know that since you were born in 1999.

[Anonymous No.3269814]

>>3268821
The cga2vga outputs 480p with no scanline emulation so you wont be able to see the scanlines

the SLG3000 also on that site just introduces more lag

[Anonymous No.3269820]

>>3269758
>their monitors
not really

[Anonymous No.3269841]

>>3269814
>the SLG3000 also on that site just introduces more lag

Why do you kids bother just shitting your wrong opinions out?

[Anonymous No.3269873]

>>3269814
I thought PC crts showed scanlines in 480p natively?

[Anonymous No.3269879]

How much should I pay for a Panasonic BT-H1390Y? Looks identical to the JVC models

[Anonymous No.3269880]

>>3269873
Later CRT monitors no.

[Anonymous No.3269892]

>>3269880
So that rules out something like a Sony F520 or LaCie EB II?

[Anonymous No.3269904]

>>3269892
If they're like 768p monitors or similar no.

Really only the old monitors from the 80s had scanlines. Exceptions of course.

[Anonymous No.3269908]

>>3269904
Most of those (the commodore monitors for the C64 or Amiga for example) are basically small TVs with S-Video, no? Speaking of which, how are those commodore monitors?

[Anonymous No.3269912]

>>3269908
Fucking horrible. But they have a batshit insane fanbase that will never give them up.

[Anonymous No.3269928]

>>3269912
Bullshit, the Philips CM833 (rebadged as 1084-P) is a perfectly respectable monitor.

[Anonymous No.3270012]

>>3269568
>>3269572
So I need to find a 4:3 mask...is there an obvious place where I can find something like that or is ebay my best bet?

>>3269261
thanks for the clarification - I thought I spent a buttload of cash on something I'm not going to be able to use.

The guy I bought it from was super cool, he has a 14" Trinitron of some sort and he's going to sell me a 13" JVC with RGB for $120 next week.

>>3269554
yeah I thought that was cool as well, I'm going to keep it on there :D

>>3269189
I ordered these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190690843258?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321495296907?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm going to try to use the VGA cable with my Dreamcast, it already has a VGA box with one of those connectors and I have a 3.5" audio to dual RCA cable to run from the VGA box to the monitor.

Those little connectors I can use with like a PS2 component cable or shitty composite right?

[Anonymous No.3270032]

>>3270012
>http://www.ebay.com/itm/321495296907

The RCA->BNC adapters look good, I use the same kind of adapter for plugging in composhit and component from my non /vr/ stuff (psp, wii, ps2).

I dunno about the VGA->BNC cable. I am able to get *an* image on screen with mine (using a BNC t-junction) to combine the syncs, but it's all distorted in the top left corner and there's heavy ghosting and dim image.

I think you need an extron to get it to work best, I've got one on the way.

[Anonymous No.3270040]

How do I fix this

bottom right corner, middle is fine

[Anonymous No.3270049]

Cheapest place online for BNC to RCA (preferably gold plated)?

Might be picking up some monitors today and I'm going to need at least 30 of these fuckers

[Anonymous No.3270052]

>>3270012
Aren't those BNC to VGA cables like $4-5 on monoprice?

[Anonymous No.3270056]

>>3269873
Yes, there are just 480 of them instead of 240

[Anonymous No.3270073]

>>3270040

hmmm

I messed around with the rings but if I fix it on the right it gets fucked on the left.

Maybe I need to adjust the yoke? The videos I've seen are all for arcade monitors with tons of clearance, my pvm has fuckin boards and cables all over the place. Plus whoever put in the little foam things put one directly under the tube, and they're all squirted with grey sticky jizz.

Might try to just find somebody to pay to fix it. Wonder if there are any crt wizards still around.

[Anonymous No.3270104]

sup

[Anonymous No.3270113]

>>3270104
This setup kind of needs Sunset Riders dont you think?

[Anonymous No.3270114]

>>3270104
battlestation thread?

[Anonymous No.3270119]

>>3270104
Weird. The image was not rotated before I uploaded it. Is rotation handled by some weird tag in the metadata or something?

I scaled and resaved it in MSPaint. Hopefully it worked.

[Anonymous No.3270135]

Does that ebay seller, retro console accesories, still make SCART cables?

[Anonymous No.3270153]

>>3269120
>that mpeg-2 chapter

holy shit.

[Anonymous No.3270179]

>>3253787
Vhs tapes are vr

[Anonymous No.3270183]

>>3270119
you dont have any room to expand
what if you wanted to play some sega

[Anonymous No.3270184]

>>3270179
>>3270179

[Anonymous No.3270189]

>>3270184
>>3254167

[Anonymous No.3270190]

>>3270114
anon please tell me youre using an upscaler to game on that tv

[Anonymous No.3270201]

>>3270190
its built in

[Anonymous No.3270206]

>>3270190
ive never heard of an hdtv that could convert the signal that retro consoles put out and make it actually look good
whats the model number of it

[Anonymous No.3270216]

>>3270114

I just vomited

[Anonymous No.3270220]

>>3270206

[Anonymous No.3270223]

>>3270114

[Anonymous No.3270236]

>>3270220

[Anonymous No.3270260]

>>3269820
The Apple composite monitors are great for NES/Commodore/Apple II gaming if you don't like to mod your stuff. And the monitor I use on my PC is an Apple Cinema from ~2008 and it kicks ass, 1920x1200 matte, you can't buy any matte LCDs this nice any more.

[Anonymous No.3270264]

>>3270260

are you that fucking retard from /g/ who took the bezel off

[Anonymous No.3270273]

>>3270264
Absolutely not, I've never been to /g/ in my life. Also I don't wreck my shit.

[Anonymous No.3270274]

>>3270183
Only the SNES is even plugged in right now. It's a work in progress and is also just a secondary setup. I do most of my vidya activities on my HDTV.

[Anonymous No.3270289]

>>3270032
Shit...so there are two sync things? I thought I could just use one single of those sync things

>>3270052
Wish I would have known that before I ordered....

[Anonymous No.3270320]

>>3270289
>Shit...so there are two sync things? I thought I could just use one single of those sync things
If you are using an AMD card, it's easy to make it output sync over just one.

[Anonymous No.3270325]

>>3270274
in that case invest in a good upscaler like a framemeister

[Anonymous No.3270334]

>>3270114
>Haier

bruh

[Anonymous No.3270342]

>>3255707
>tried it, it doesnt work
>Im able to connect it but its impossible to get the right refresh rate, it just cant be done. None of the programs I've tried to change the refresh rate have sufficed to make the screen usable

Have you tried the program Powerstrip?
It lets you adjust your vertical and horizontal frequency in addition to your resolution.

[Anonymous No.3270358]

>>3270320
I have a GTX 960....doesn't have a VGA port so I need to use a converter from DVI right?

[Anonymous No.3270359]

Sorry i tried my best to take a good shot of this. First time Meme tv owner got my Famicom modded for RGB and it looks amazing. I have a 8042Q. It has alot of buttons and the only 2 i have on are the RGB and sync one. Anyother buttons that should be turned on?

[Anonymous No.3270360]

Are PVMs/BVMs really that much better that they're worth the sacrifice in screen size?

[Anonymous No.3270373]

>>3270360
It's really up to you. If screen size is a priority, I'd recommend a nice WEGA. Otherwise, your options are limited. Maybe a PVM 2950Q or BVM D32E1WU.

[Anonymous No.3270376]

>>3270325
I'd like to but I have some qualms, or at least one: all the current upscalers appear to output 1080p max, meaning a 4k TV will still have to do additional scaling. If and when a 4k Framemeister comes out I'll probably get one.

[Anonymous No.3270383]

New vidya setup, just got the stand this week.

[Anonymous No.3270386]

>>3270360
Honestly famicom, I only got an 8 in because it was cheaper and small. I'm sure the 14, 20 or 29 in ones are much better but I'm happy with this. I have to test out the rest of my /vr/ consoles. I also noticed there was a button for 16:9 too which might come in handy for my 5th gen consoles.

[Anonymous No.3270391]

>>3270360
I really like my little 9", if you have the desktop real estate they're perfect for that role.

IMO the 13-14" are completely useless if you're going to spend money on these - it's either you get a decent desktop monitor or a 20" or larger BVM.

One day I'm going to shell out for a xVM larger than 25". I have a JVC 13" with RGB in my bedroom and it's way too small for playing JRPGs and shooters, sidescrollers work fine though for the most part, it's just far from ideal for what I paid for it.

[Anonymous No.3270396]

>>3270383
Make sure you pick that penny up before you vacuum.

[Anonymous No.3270407]

crt is on casters and goes into the utility room when not used

[Anonymous No.3270415]

>>3270407
That's a sick set, anon.

[Anonymous No.3270416]

>>3270407
And in the loft, second set is because my kid is always standing in front of the tv.

Wish I could find a pro monitor, I have been through 10 or so tv's trying to find good ones.

[Anonymous No.3270420]

>>3270416
Oh damn, I had a nickelodeon clock like that one.

[Anonymous No.3270423]

>>3270416
Pretty fucking cute.

[Anonymous No.3270429]

>>3270415
thanks its an old mitsubishi 35" console. the little glass door auto retracts when you open it, I played with that for like 5 minutes when I brought it home. 240lb though it is a monster. paid $50 for it, no ragrets

[Anonymous No.3270468]

>>3270429
I just saw one on craigslist now, what kind of inputs does it have? Can't find anything googling the model numbers.

[Anonymous No.3270491]

>>3270468
I was wrong it is 260lb, bring a hand truck there are no handles anywhere.

[Anonymous No.3270573]

>>3270407
love that mitsubishi

[Anonymous No.3270654]

Hey I'm the guy who bought the 9" from above - is driving ~8 hrs roundtrip for this thing a good idea?

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/ele/5618342724.html

gas should cost around $45-ish....so ~$300 total

I'm pretty stoked on it, a 25" PVM sounds like heaven.

[Anonymous No.3270724]

>>3270260
>1920x1200 matte
>you can't buy any matte LCDs this nice any more.

Youre monitor is shit
You dont even know the panel type and besides if it doesnt have an A-TW polarizer (and it doesnt) its shit just like every other generic consumer monitor.

[Anonymous No.3270742]

>1920x1200 matte
>you can't buy any matte LCDs this nice any more.

Your monitor is shit
You dont even know the panel type and besides if it doesnt have an A-TW polarizer (and it doesnt) its shit just like every other generic consumer monitor.

[Anonymous No.3270787]

Hey guise I just found this toshiba, I think I need to go buy a universal remote for it to chane inputs. Any particular brands I should look for/avoid?

[Anonymous No.3270901]

>>3270358
You could use the DVI port as long as it isn't DVI-D. You would use an adapter, not a converter.

[Anonymous No.3270904]

>>3270359
That can't be a CRT

[Anonymous No.3270912]

>>3270360

I went PVM for non-/vr/ reasons: because it's the only option for lagless 480p. I went CRT in general because it actually makes 480p actually look good (6th gen).

The un-crushed blacks, deep saturated colors, high resolution (for crt), sweet 240p scanlines, and h and v size controls were icing on the cake.

If you're only interested in /vr/ stuff, a good 480i trinitron that takes s-video will get you most of the way there. You'll get even closer if you live somewhere where rgb inputs were common (SCART land)

I love my PVMs/BVMs, but all the "affordable" ones (relative term) are 20" and under. They are great for 'retro nook' setups where you can pull your chair up close. They are not great for entertaining friends/gfs with.

[Anonymous No.3270918]

>>3270654

bretty good deal for /vr/

make sure there's no phosphor burn or screen scratches before you make the drive down

[Anonymous No.3271209]

>>3270012
Sony still sells parts
https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.com/
For just $88 you too can own your own piece of 4:3 plastic.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3271235]

>>3270135
She closes up shop from time to time. Give it a couple days and it should be up again.

>>3270912
>only option for lagless 480p
PC monitors work as well, admittedly with a bit of extra setup in some cases.

[Anonymous No.3271292]

So question
I can set a custom res to 240p in my intel HD drivers settings on my 31Khz PC CRT, but there's no scanlines even when I ran an emulator in the unscaled option. Could it be lying about the 240p and really be giving me 480i?

[Anonymous No.3271676]

>>3271292
If you're using a monitor special steps need to be taken. http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#CRT_Monitors

[Anonymous No.3271838]

>>3271676
What are some good, newer model trisync computer monitors?

[Anonymous No.3271886]

>>3271209
the yellow jew strikes again

[Anonymous No.3271909]

>>3271838
No idea. I have a Gateway Vivitron that's pretty nice, I couldn't get any of the workarounds to work for me so I just use a shader (see >>3257218, only I figured you want Target and Monitor gamma turned up all the way to five if you go for a scanline weight of 0.10).

>>3271886
>yellow jew
But that's Koreans and Chinese anon.

[Anonymous No.3271996]

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pho/5620551249.html

is this a good price for an 8in pvm?

[Anonymous No.3272110]

>>3270383

Poifect

>>3270220

That looks like a blurry mess. At least get an XRGB mini so you can get some scanlines going or something.

>>3269189

>Nasa TV

That's the most bulletproof argument ever.

>why do you keep this old tv around?
>hey, if it was good enough for NASA

[Anonymous No.3272170]

guy in boston is giving away a free fw900

hardforum fw900 thread

[Anonymous No.3272172]

>>3271996

>>3271996

>250 tv lines

That's about the market rate. For about the same price/only a little more you can get a PVM-8045Q on ebay (450 tv lines), but it's ebay so it's going to be hard to accurately judge condition online.

If it's a <30 min drive it's worth following up on.

I'd only pay $80 if it was in mint condition and you're satisfied with the screen pitch. I've got 250 TVL on my 5" PVM and the "vertical scanlines" effect is very noticeable.

[Anonymous No.3272198]

http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/pho/5618061503.html
>>3272172
thanks, how about this one? first time im seeing pvms on my local cl, I got mine for 13$ so it will always feel like im getting ripped off

[Anonymous No.3272201]

>>3272198
>http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/pho/5618061503.html


>This posting has been deleted by its author.
>(The title on the listings page will be removed in just a few minutes.)

no idea what it was, but looks like you got scooped

[Anonymous No.3272206]

>>3272201
fuck, it was a 20n5u for 150 bones

[Anonymous No.3272232]

>>3272206

[Anonymous No.3272239]

>>3272232
well it would have taken 30min for me to get into dc so I really was already too late

[Anonymous No.3272436]

I have two BKM-120D (SDI) and a BKM-142HD (HD/SDI) that I have no use for, since I just use my monitors for analog vidya.

The 120D seems to go for relatively cheap (~$25 ish) on ebay, but someone out there's still paying decent money for 142HD's (>$100 although in low volumes).

What's the cheapest/easiest way I can test out these cards to verify they work before selling?

[Anonymous No.3272576]

I picked up a BVM-1201 today, but can't seem to find much info or any manuals for it online.

Anyone know anything about this guy?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3272616]

Time Bomb Set!
Escape Immediately!
(New Thread)
>>3272607
>>3272607