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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 101 KB, 684x629, RepairGeneral.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3146059 No.3146059 [Reply] [Original]

Repair/mod discussion thread. What are you working on?

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Check out the wiki and see if there's anything you can add.

Most problems can be solved simply by cleaning the console itself, the games, or the controllers. Follow this guide before attempting any repairs: http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

Not the usual OP, but I haven't seen one up for a while and I wanted to talk about some stuff.

>> No.3146062

Trying to teach myself to fix all my own stuff.

I don't know shit about soldering other than some very basic stuff I do at work; I need to replace the speaker in my GBA and the Caps in my Game Gear. I have a Weller SP40L I got from a family member I was going to use, but someone told me it was too hot to work on electronics. Is this true? If so, what soldering iron should I get?

>> No.3146084

>>3146062
I use a Weller WLC100(cheapest shit they make) and it works fine for electronics. Is your temperature adjustable? Does it tell you temp? Gonna need some details about your soldering iron to give you good advice.

Glad this thread is finally up, I was asking tech questions in threads and getting ignored in favor of shitposting. Here's my question:

After seeing a number of people online talk about how the newer RGB encoders are better than the old CXA1145's, I was thinking about replacing the one in my Genesis. Does anyone have any experience with putting a 1645 or 2075(I think that's the newest one) into a system, and if so, have you noticed much difference in video quality?

>> No.3146089

>>3146084

No adjustment, doesn't tell me temp. Basically just a metal stick that gets hot.

It has 40W 120 V ~ 60Hz printed on it, if that helps.

>> No.3146305

Hmm, maybe some one here can answer my question.

What type of solder should I be using. I have an old roll of rosin core but I'm not sure if it's RA or RMA. What one is best?

>> No.3146306

In the process of making a Sega Genesis toaster.

>> No.3146308
File: 18 KB, 464x266, 1319504961289.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3146308

>>3146306
I assume you're using either a model 2 or 3 for this project.

>> No.3146327

How's this for a laugh, I walk into a store the other day and ask about an NES I'm a Sega guy, always have been, but I've secretly always wanted an NES he tells me he has a broken one for 20 AUD NES consoles generally sell for 180-220 over in Australia figure I'll roll the dice, clean up the inputs with a small amount of isopropyl and it runs perfectly.
>Broken he said

>> No.3146404

>>3146327
Well done there. What store?

>> No.3146484

>>3146404
There was this local little pop up shop that opened briefly in Bussleton WA, truth be told I feel a little bad that it works without any investment, except for the Mario Bros. He sold me, it runs for about 10 minutes then freezes, no other game does this and I've cleaned it a few times

>> No.3146656

>>3146089
>No adjustment, doesn't tell me temp. Basically just a metal stick that gets hot.
Ok, yeah, I wouldn't use that for electronics then. Get a WLC100, they are cheap and adjustable. Won't tell you temp, but it's not exactly hard to get setup for electronic stuff. Set to 1, plug in, let heat up. Is it hot enough to flow your solder? If not, turn it up to 1.5, wait a little while, try again. Repeat until you find the right setting.

>>3146305
As long as it's not acid core(used in plumbing), you should be fine. I recommend lead-based solder since it has a lower melting point than non-lead-based solder, but it really doesn't matter.

So, does anyone have any info related to the RGB encoder question here?:
>>3146084

>> No.3146834

>>3146306

Wouldn't it just melt?

>> No.3148105

>>3146656
Yeah, I know about acid and leaded. I'm just wondering what type would be best for re-working clean but old solder joints.

>> No.3148313

>>3148105
Any lead solder will work fine, I personally use just radioshack 60/40 lead electronics solder, others prefer 63/37.
It's your soldering iron and a clean tip that make a bigger difference between good solder joints vs cold joints.

>> No.3150283
File: 11 KB, 400x303, sega_dreamcast_console.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3150283

Got my Dreamcast reading certain disks again this weekend with a fix I found from google, turning the red-marked screw 1/10th of a turn

But what does that actually do? Some of the guides said it affects the laser, others said it effects the speed of the disk. Turning it 1/10th counter-clockwise fixed it, but I don't know what actually changed or why it helped.

>> No.3150285

My childhood SNES gives me a blank screen, no audio. But it powers on.

I cleaned all the connectors.

On Super Punch Out, it gets to the silver Nintendo logo and just keeps flashing the logo over and over.

>> No.3150494

>>3150283
most likely increased the power to the laser. This can burn it out faster but it sounds like its starting to die.

>>3150285
Very strange. If you post some video that would help.

>> No.3150509
File: 68 KB, 1000x730, Ps_vs_psone.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3150509

I have a PSOne that boots and everything but that when you put in a disc it spins for 2-3 seconds and then stops with a click.
The laser assembly itself is fine because it works when transplanted to a fat PSX.
Any ideas?

>> No.3151483

anyone know anything about ps1 modchips?
i got a scph-9001 laying around and i wanna make use of it

>> No.3151492

>>3151483
eurasia dot nu/shop/default.php?cPath=52&PHPSESSID=47cb52e3756ad4eacd8e4f7a8aeefa3b

I bought EUR one for my PAL SCPH-9002 and works perfectly.

>> No.3151495

>>3151492
Thanks!
how hard is the install?
the only thing i've ever soldered was my saturn mod chip

>> No.3151540

>>3151495
It was easy-ish, it really depends on your ps1 model.

Be careful with the diagrams though, the one I first used was wrong and I had to resolder few wires, but in the end it worked perfectly and it took me hour or two.

>> No.3151598

>>3150283
You upped the voltage to the laser.

It's basically a band-aid fix for a failing laser in most consoles, and you'll probably have to do it again in some amount of time depending on how often you use it, though each time it's going to stop working faster and faster until it's full gone.

Not really much else you can do, though.

>> No.3151672

>>3151598

Can the laser be replaced in the future? Is this fix going to wear out anything that I won't have to replace anyways?

>> No.3153392

>>3151672
Normally, yes, but its a dream cast so they use GCD.

So no, you can't

>> No.3153441

>>3153392
There has to be a way anon

>> No.3153443

>>3153441
No, there isn't

Sega went with GCD's and the only thing that uses that is the Dream Cast. There isn't a supply of people making new ones and all the new old stock is gone.

>> No.3153449

>>3151672
Some regular computer CD-ROM drives can donate the laser to the dreamcast.
I haven't done it myself but people have reported that it works.

>> No.3153460

>>3151672
The laser can be replaced. The whole mechanism can be replaced. DCs are still cheap and plentiful so you can replace the whole console if you need to.

>> No.3153995

>>3153443
That's why I'm so surprised Sega is in trouble. You'd think a company who developed a special laser that we're still unable to replicate decades later would have come up with some other use of this amazing technology to make money. kek

>> No.3153998

>>3153995
It was quickly outclassed by DVD.

>> No.3155661

>Pay $20 for "Tested, 100% working!" Sega Genesis model 1 power brick on ebay
>It arrives non-functional, get refund
>Seller says to not bother sending it back
>Open with 4.5 gamebit
>the 3300uF 16V cap is broken and leaking fluid
>order replacement cap for $1.00 off interwebs
And that's how I got a $20 official 1602 power brick for $1.

>> No.3156357

I know this might be a long shot but does anyone have any bulk broken NES consoles?

>> No.3156434

>>3155661
>$1 3300uF 16V cap
>$20 official 1602 power brick
topkek

>> No.3157703
File: 1.55 MB, 2448x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3157703

God bless

>> No.3157818

Dunno if this would go here or not but I'll ask anyway.
What is the best way to play Famicom games? Either a normal NES or a Toploader? What kind of modding would I have to do for them?

>> No.3158258

>>3157818
>What is the best way to play Famicom games?
On a Famicom I would imagine.
>Either a normal NES or a Toploader?
Either.
>What kind of modding would I have to do for them?
No modding, just get an adapter. You plug in Famicom cart, and plug assembly into NES. No modding needed.

>> No.3158268

>>3157703
god i want that. but i have no skill in modding.
and iv'e tried. broken two gbas.

>> No.3160135

i just ordered a green play it loud game boy, a soldering iron, & a spool of tin solder.
about to order a white backlight & a bivert chip.
i'm so excited. it's too bad my autistic hipster colors are showing

>> No.3160494

>>3160135
>tin solder
I hope for your sake it has some lead in it, lead free solder is a pain in the ass to use right.

>> No.3160789

>>3160494
>i red sum shit on tintarwebs then posy on 4chen, is i do do rite mum

>> No.3160903

>>3160789
Lead free solder takes a higher temperature to melt and thus you risk more thermal damage from using it. Also it doesn't flow as easily and the bonds are easier to break.

>> No.3160919

>>3160494
>lead free solder is a pain in the ass
Only if you're using some $5 ebay iron or if you have no idea what you're doing.

Temperature control is essential for lead free.

>> No.3160943

>>3160919
If you are not selling shit to the europoor there's no reason to make things harder for you by using lead-free solder.

>> No.3161117

>>3160903
>i red sum stuff and coppied and paterd it am i do rite?
No, you're still an underage fool

>> No.3161125

>>3161117
>>3160789
Google parroting is rampant, especially on /vr/. It's like a nerd cred testing ground.

I use 63/37 because of how it wetts.

>> No.3161223

>>3161117
>your underagge if u acktueliy no wy this badd :DD::D:D:D

Most lead free alloys available in retail stores is toilet. You would know this if your experience wasn't entirely based on search results and acting contrarian to be cool on the internet.

>> No.3161238

>>3161223
>Most lead free alloys available in retail stores is toilet.
What retail store sells lead? Are you in china or some other 3rd world country?

>> No.3161268

>>3161238
Are you actually too retarded to comprehend how much better a lead-based solder is, and how a store would sell it for people that aren't complete morons?

That said, helicopter moms that think lead is a viral contaminant are slowly pushing it out of most stores.

>> No.3161270

>>3161268
Listen kid. Your reading comprehension is obviously lacking. Nowhere in that post did I say lead free solder was better.

Come back in about 10 years when you're 18. Better yet don't come back.

When I buy my 63/37 solder I can only find it online.

>> No.3161307

>>3161270
>Listen kid.
Fuck off retard.
>Your reading comprehension is obviously lacking. Nowhere in that post did I say lead free solder was better.
Of course, dear, I know this anonymous board has name indicators for everyone on it.

>Come back in about 10 years when you're 18. Better yet don't come back.
You want one of the principal contributors and essentially a founding member of the repair thread to leave just because you're too retarded to understand how this site works and assume everyone but you is a child?


>When I buy my 63/37 solder I can only find it online.

>Because it's like this for me, it's literally like this for everyone!
What a childish assumption. You bust that out and call other people a child?

Congratulations, you got your reply. Now be constructive or off yourself.

>> No.3161308

>>3161307
>Fuck off retard.

Oh hey it's this shitposter.

>> No.3161313

>>3161308
Oh hey, it's this troll again.

Contribute or fuck off.

>> No.3161314

>>3161313
>>>/v/

There's the door.

>> No.3161319

>>3161314
Here's your reply, hypocritical child.

Don't expect any more to feed your childish ego.

>> No.3161321
File: 131 KB, 1920x1080, v0sPD4b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3161321

>>3161319
You seem pretty serious.

>> No.3161362

Is it possible to mod an NTSC N64 to play PAL games, or does de-region locking it only allow for Japanese games?

>> No.3161376
File: 20 KB, 600x375, Sega-Saturn-Action-Replay-Cartridge-1041428.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3161376

Anybody know the best way to clean/fix a Saturn cartridge slot?

I have to re-insert my Action Replay like 10 times before the system picks it up.

>> No.3161415

>>3161376
Clean the pins on the action replay cart as a first.

>> No.3161418

>>3161376
That's pretty normal the Saturn cart slot is garbage. Just clean it like you would any other cart slot.

>> No.3161467

>>3161415
>>3161418
Thanks all works great now.

I've got another problem. My Darkstalkers' Revenge disk is rubbing against the bottom of the CD tray. It'll scratch if I let it spin.

Does anybody know the best way to straighten out a disk? It's gotta be very slightly bent because no other game does this.

>> No.3161485

>>3161467
Take the top off the console and pull off the tray from the motor. Make sure you pull straight up, or else you'll bend it.
Then fit the tray on the motor, and use the butt of a screwdriver to whack it down a bit, until it is only just a tiny bit higher than it originally way.

If the console won't read discs afterwards, then you either put the tray too low or too high. Repeat the process. Perhaps you can even try booting the console (hold down the cd lock lever by hand) to see at which point does it read the discs the best.

>> No.3161509

>>3161485
Cheers, thanks for this. I've heard about this method in the past, but saw that people said that it was only a temporary measure since the spindle just tends to drop back down again over time.

That's why I was wondering if there's a decent way to straighten out the disks out there. But if not I'm happy to try this out.

>> No.3161517

>>3161509
>since the spindle just tends to drop back down again over time.

If you slam discs on like a madman, then yeah.

Honestly I never had to do it myself, only reason I even know of this method is that I swapped components often and that involved removing parts.

>> No.3162001
File: 107 KB, 237x256, moonstar feels.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3162001

>tfw fumbling retard and cant solder a new battery into my EZ Flash 4

>> No.3162818

>>3155661
Me again. Another component appears to have suffered damage when the cap went down, so I need to replace it as well. Only problem is I can't make out exactly what it is. I think it's a rectifier diode, but I can't tell exactly what type. Anyone have an original 1602 they can open and tell me? It's the rectifier diode right next to where the cap is connected to the pcb.

>> No.3162927

I got a 2600 4 switcher I'm looking to fix up. Has fuzzy video even after switching the 0.1uf 100v cap, 2200uf cap, all of the 4.7uf caps, and the 5 volt 7805c.

Wondering where else I should trouble shoot. I've replaced some of the 0.1uf 100v on the board as well as the 0.22uf 100v cap.

>> No.3162937

>>3162818
Take a picture and show us?

>> No.3162943

>>3161362
Why in gods name would you want to play a PAL N64 game on an NTSC console?

>> No.3162968

I got a copy of Ms Pac Man on Genesis at Goodwill for a couple dollars. Game looks like it was in great quality, still had the keepcase in very good condition too. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get the cartridge to work. I opened it up, cleaned all the pins very thoroughly with contact cleaner, polished with Brasso, the works. Did a full cleaning of my cartridge slot, tried multiple systems, still no life. Sometimes (very rarely) I'm able to get to the TMSS screen, but no further. I've examined the circuit board under a magnifying glass, can find no obvious failure points, no weak/cracked solder, no cracks, the board looks pristine. I know copies of the game are cheap, but is there something I'm missing here? It doesn't make any sense

>> No.3162972

>>3162968
Your copy might just be bad. If you want and have a soldering iron you can try and re-flow all the points. They tend to wear and weaken with age.

>> No.3162975

>>3162972
That's shitty, I guess I'll take 10 minutes and try to reflow all the solder points tomorrow, but I guess I'll just have to buy another copy if that doesn't work.

>> No.3162979

>>3162975
It's entirely possible the ROM chip has died too due to age. Although the likelihood of that happening to a Genesis game right now is low.

>> No.3162987

>>3162979
I had no idea that was a thing, never found a game that I couldn't play that wasn't due to dirt or corrosion yet. What causes games to fail like that and can it be prevented?

>> No.3162992

>>3162987
Just bit rot. Eventually all ROM chips will go though it.

Just keep them in a dry place away from moisture. even though the game looks fine, you don't know it's past.

>> No.3163132

>>3162987
>>3162992
It happened to me with Alex Kidd for the genesis. I transplanted to another pcb and didn't work there either. I put sonic's rom on the original alex kidd pcb and it worked.

>> No.3163137

>>3163132
Must be build quality.

What run did you have? The first run or second run in cardboard boxes?

>> No.3163142

>>3163137
I don't know. I'm not the original owner. I bought it in batch and that one was the only one I couldn't just clean and get working. I swapped the pcb just to make sure it was the rom what was failing.

>> No.3163206
File: 490 KB, 1224x1632, pic related.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3163206

>given N64
>doesn't play anything but red light is on
>no video/sound
>open it up
>lots of rust inside
>that's why it was free
Anything I can do to fix it? The rust is mostly around the cartridge port and sides.

>> No.3163218

>>3163206
Do you have the jumper pack or memory expansion installed? The N4 doesn't boot without it.

>> No.3163220

>>3163218
Yes (not in that pic though).

>> No.3163224

>>3163220
Do the carts play in another system?

>> No.3163290

>>3163206
Rust seems to be only on the grounding. You can strip it off and then seal in the metal. The cartage slot you can pull right out and see if there's damage under it.

>> No.3163430

>>3162992
Mask ROMs don't bit rot but it's be possible that some pins became shorted to ground or power (internal ESD protection diode got shorted) or became high impedance (outputs have a very high resistance).
This could be caused by overvoltage or ESD.

>>3163206
Inspect with magnifying glass.
I think the PCB is just 2 layers so it should be possible to fix broken traces.

>> No.3164694

I'm importing a NTSC NES and SNES and I need European AC adapters for both. I hear the NTSC NES works with a PAL NES AC adapter and the NTSC SNES with a PAL Mega Drive 1 adapter but I've had no confirmation on these.
Anyone here know?

>> No.3165426
File: 483 KB, 2592x1944, IMG_20160424_202030.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3165426

>>3162937
Sorry bout the late reply, but I figured it was a RL201. The only problem I have now is finding a supplier for a single RL201 who doesn't wanna charge $5 for it, when the other option I have is to get 50 of them for $5.

>> No.3165431

>>3165426
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/micro-commercial-co/RL201-TP/RL201-TPCT-ND/950498

>> No.3165478

>>3165431
>$3.50 with shipping
I appreciate the effort, but I think I'll have better luck trying to find a local seller, or see if one of my friends has a spare, or if I can find a used one inside some broken power converter.

>> No.3165481

>>3165478
its better then $5. You're not going to find a local seller that sells it for whole sell prices like Digikey.

And you'd have to go though a lot of BS and e-waist to find a salvage part.

>> No.3165494

>>3165478
If the purpose of the diode is to only to rectify almost any rectifier diode will work as long as it is rated at equal or greater voltage and current.

>> No.3166338

Looking to repair a Dreamcast with a faulty laser. Amplifying the power to the laser is out of the question because the screw broke at the base. What's the best replacement option? Is it worth replacing at all or should I get another unit?

>> No.3166339

Does an american 32x require what physical modifications to play PAL and japanese Mega Drive games?

>> No.3167604

>>3166338

My understanding is that because the Dreamcast uses technology designed specifically for Sega, the only realistic option is another Dreamcast laser.

If you're really desperate to the point where you need to change it, but think the voltage adjustment will fix it, you could maybe try very carefully drilling into the screw first and adjusting it that way if you have the tools.

The longer we make all these lasers last, the better.

>> No.3167818

>>3167604
>My understanding is wrong

>> No.3167884

>>3167818

Cool, so what's the best replacement option?

>> No.3168131

>>3166339
It does need modification for pal, not sure on japanese.

>> No.3168445

>>3162927
Bumping my question

>> No.3168449

>>3157703
Hey, question. Does your screen look like complete shit outdoors? Becuase I did this mod and I'm not sure if i just did it shittily but it looks like fucking trash when I'm outside. Looks great indoors though, and yours looks really nice

>> No.3168508

Should I sell my RGB modded NES to get a Famicom or AV Fami and get that RGB modded with stereo to harness the power of Akumajou Densetsu?
is there really a difference between getting a famicom or AV Fami in terms of processing power or sound differences like the genesis revisions?

>> No.3168562

>>3168508
Some say there is.

As far as chips goes. They're the same. Just the layout of the board and some values of resistors and different. Some say the expansion audio on the AV famicom is lower but that can be fixed.

In the end, its really up to you and what you want sitting on your shelf.

I'm looking to also start doing RGB mods for NES consoles.

>> No.3168920

>>3157703
hows the ghosting? mine is really bad...

just in the time to change equips in castevania gives horrible ghosting of the inventory screen for like five-ten seconds...

i had a hell of a time getting the thing to display properly, had to short some shit together.

>> No.3168970

>>3156357
Sadly I gave away the 5 or 6 extra 'parts' NES units I had. Went Famicom only a few years back.

>> No.3169241
File: 2.02 MB, 3920x2260, Genesis 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3169241

The left audio channel on my Genesis model 3 just crapped out. It's still faintly there but it's mostly static. I thought it was the cheap amazon av cable I bought a few months back but I tested it on a model 2 and it worked fine. I did some googling but can't find anyone talking about the model 3 specifically. Anyone have any experience repairing these?

>> No.3169608

>>3169241
Could be a capacitor, but I've never worked on a model 3 before.

>> No.3169627

>>3169241
Check your traces and contacts. Make sure they're continuous and nothing is shorted.

>> No.3169859

I want to open a Virtual Boy. Will link related reach the farther concaved 4.5s?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00BEZY2I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1461704300&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=gamebit+screwdriver&dpPl=1&dpID=310P3WXCNwL&ref=plSrch

>> No.3170081

>>3167884
Best option for someone who can't into lasers is a new machine. Someone who can use a screwdriver might just replace the mechanism. Best way is to replace just the broken part but that requires playing with hot things .

>> No.3170489

>>3169859
It doesn't say but from the pictures I'd say not.

>> No.3172091

>>3170489
What's the best option if I want to open one up?

>> No.3172159

>>3160903
i'm going to be using 60/40 solder w/ a rosin core.
but it turns out that i'll need a couple other supplies, b/c the green play it loud game boy came w/ a dusty screen & the screen lens fell out. i ordered a glass replacement from hhl, & i'll be sticking it on w/ some rubber cement.
i'm also waiting for my wire stripper.
in other news, the soldering iron i got is really nice. it's got a nice pointy tip

>> No.3172910

>>3172091
You want one that has a shaft the same diameter all the way up, or at least as far up as it needs to go deep. Most are too short. Some people have actually resorted to lathing it to the right diameter as far as they need. It actually works quite well and is your best option if you have access to a lathe and can't find a good driver.

>> No.3173172

picked up a PSone from Talize for 8 bucks. Some kid back in the day obviously had too much fun and spilled soda all over it, and the RF shield is rusting. Anyone got any tips on getting rid of the rust?

>> No.3173180

>>3173172
Rub wd40 on the shield.
Failing that use a fine sandpaper for metals.

>> No.3173376

>>3150283
i had to do the same thing for my ps1. will replacing the lens fix this if i dont want to keep turning the screw 1/10th every time?

>> No.3173429

>>3172159
Pointy as in a chisel tip or like a needle?

Generally from experience chisel tips are the best because they evenly heat a point unlike needle tips.

You're going to have to clean the old glue off the shell before putting on the new screen lens. I recommend goo gone and just rubbing it.

>> No.3175379
File: 15 KB, 400x400, 1BDB_400.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3175379

>>3173172
A brass brush is really good for this. I use one like this for cleaning up rusty RF shielding in SNESes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161934391261

>> No.3175408
File: 1.16 MB, 3264x2448, 20160429_025827431_iOS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3175408

Anybody know how to replace the LED in the genesis model 1? This one had its contacts rusted all the way through and they just fell off. All the videos/guides I've been able to find seem to not have this specific model

>> No.3175412

>>3175408
Unfortunately your model doesn't have the face plate that pops off. You're going to have to cut that middle bit and glue a new LED in or clip the two melted points to get the face plate off.

>> No.3175417

>>3175412
Dammit, why did I have to find a non-tmss model with busted LED

>> No.3175419

>>3175417
you MIGHT be able to find an LED that's slightly smaller and fit it though the front.

>> No.3175548

>>3175379
Probably want something harder than brass, like steel. I picked up a few sets of brushes that have one each steel, brass and plastic at the local dollar shop.

Steel scrubbers also work well

>> No.3176036

>>3169627
what are traces and contacts?

>> No.3176045

>>3168449
Hi, thanks. I've never brought it outside yet. Will try when there's better sun and let you know. I think on a cloudy day like today it'd be guaranteed to look great, ya know what I mean?

>>3168920
I understand that this is the primary concern with this mod however I haven't experienced ghosting of any kind and I've mainly been playing golden sun and aria of sorrow. Granted, this is my third and best attempt with this mod.

Practice makes perfect anon

>> No.3176283

>>3176036
Traces are lines of copper that the electrical signals travel on. You can usually see them as the lighter lines on a device's circuit board. You just want to make sure they're not broken or damaged.
You want to look for places where the protective coating is damaged and showing copper, or where these lines are interrupted where they shouldn't be.

Contacts are connection points. Bare metal pins or pads that push together to pass a signal along, like when you plug in the AV cables or a game. They want to be relatively clean to pass the signal uninterrupted.

>> No.3177193

>>3173180
>>3175548
>>3175379
thanks I'll try these

>> No.3177496

Anyone have any nozzles for surface mounted hot air re-work?

>> No.3177954

Hey folks, just wanted to ask something.

So recently I was trying to AV mod a famicom I had, but when I tried to test it, it acted weird.

For one, when the game was inserted and then the console switched on, the thing doesn't start up, only when I press the reset button does any form of color pop up. And even then, the games turn up all corrupted.

http://m.imgur.com/a/QvEBZ

Do you guys suppose this is a matter of the cart slot being dirty or something? I'm extremely confused at this juncture.

>> No.3178129

>>3177954
Was it working before? did you work on the CPU or PPU or any other chips? This seems more likely then the AV mod. You're getting a nice picture despite how fucked up it looks.

>> No.3178147

>>3178129
Couldn't test if it worked prior to the modding as I don't have a TV that could use the RF connection.

My only problem was why did it only work AFTER the reset button was pressed, and not when it powered on.

I've never heard of any info regarding why that occurs. I'd figured that if I could find out why that happens, it'll fix the corruption issue as well.

>> No.3178149

>>3178147
There's a little cap I thin 0.47uf. I think that's part of the reset circuit.

>> No.3178503

>>3178147
There will be a circuit that resets the CPU on power up. Sounds like that's not working.

>> No.3178990
File: 384 KB, 1075x1434, problem children.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3178990

Well, here's my problem children:
- PSP 1000: Ofc, big ass crack in the screen, needs a new faceplate, I suppose. Everything else works great!

Thinking I should order this: http://store.richspsxparts.com/neworpspfa.html

- NDSL and GBASP AGS-001: Both do not register shoulder presses, and it's probably due to my dumbass dropping both units on both shoulder buttons over the course of their lifetime use (as in, when I used it).

Looking to get: http://www.dx.com/p/repair-parts-replacement-l-r-buttons-switches-for-sp-nds-pair-45106 [SP]

http://www.dx.com/p/repair-parts-replacement-l-r-buttons-switches-for-nds-lite-2-piece-set-13264 [NDSL]

Main issue rn in checking if that's the problem is that I need a trigram, and I'd like to find a good bitset instead of just a trigram screwdriver.

Thanks for any feedback

>> No.3179017 [DELETED] 

Not retro. Fuck off

>> No.3179171

I've been fixing up a Saturn and been wondering how best to play CD-Rs off it. I could mod-chip it. I could buy a Phoebe (it's a model 2). But I could also flash Pseudo Saturn on a 4+1MB action replay and do that. I'm having trouble finding details on the thing, I understand that it doesn't have memory management functions anymore but it does still act as a RAM expansion, but what I don't follow is how to flash the AR. I have an old Gateway with a parallel port (Use it for early 90s retrogames), and a parallel wire somewhere to go with it.What program would you flash it with? The compatibility list seems odd to me -- should I basically expect to not play multi disc games on it, or are there patched ISOs that fix that?

>> No.3179306

>>3178990
>feedback
Not retro kiddo.

>> No.3179309

>>3179306
Holy shit, I just realized...

Sorry.

>> No.3179508

The GBA SP can go straight to hell. As a birthday gift, I replaced my brother's screen that I broke years and years ago. I spent the better part of two hours just trying to get that goddamn ribbon cable back in straight and flat. My hand cramped and seized in the process and the buttons went flying. Got there in the end though.

>> No.3179531

>>3179508
Oh shit, this isn't retro yet. Sorry bout that.

>> No.3179702

>>3179508
Just use needle nose pliers man.

>> No.3180174
File: 843 KB, 1895x1677, fzBjir8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3180174

I don't know where to put this problem at but yeah.

My CRT Sanyo TV has AV ports. I used to play my N64 on it, until one day it stopped showing the picture. The audio is fine, i can hear it, but the picture is not showing on the screen. I only get the defult blue video screen. Any input on this? It does this with all my game systems.

Pic kind of related.

>> No.3180186

>>3180174
>AV ports.
So....Composite? Sounds like the video jack connection broke. If you have another video input method, use that. Hope you have S-video, otherwise you'll most likely be stuck with RF/Coaxial.

>> No.3180217

>>3180186
Well I tried my SNES on the TV using the Coaxial also, but did the same thing.

>> No.3180295

>>3180174
If you're any good with electronics you could open up the TV and try and see if the AV jack is cracked and re solder it to the board

>> No.3180340

>>3180295
Yeah I should try to see if its broken, but I just don't want to fuck up anything else. Worse comes to worse I might just buy another CRT.

>> No.3180349

I have a similar problem than >>3163206 with my big brother's SMS wich was abandoned for over 20 years on a very old house
the thing is that it has even more rust than that and its almost everywhere.
the screws are super rusty too.
is there any possibility of repair?

>> No.3180485

>>3180349
You'd have to post pictures.

>> No.3180503
File: 342 KB, 2082x2034, AGS modded GBA.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3180503

So I really want an AGS modded AGB-001 Game Boy Advance, but the kits are damn expensive. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on one as a college graduation gift to myself, because as the NOS supply for the screens continues to dry up they're only going to get more expensive.

Are there any peculiarities about the mod that I should be aware of? Installation looks pretty straightforward, the kit includes supposedly everything required including the modded ribbon cables, and I'm capable with a soldering iron. The obvious caveats for me would be 1) I need to actually buy an AGB-001 since I traded mine for a non-AGS SP ages ago, and 2) I'm probably going to need a flash cart since I don't really own that many GBA games.

I'm also thinking of doing the Gameboy Color front light mod with the LOCA on the screen, since it's a cheap mod and I'm quite fond of my old childhood unit which I recently slapped a new shell on (truth be told I probably played it a lot more than either of my GBAs, and owned a lot more games for it).

>> No.3180509

>>3180503
You have to keep in mind that it's not a straight ribbon cable but an adapter. You have to get the one for the model of AGB you get. Also, you have to cut the housing for the screen to fit, so I hope you're alright with that.

You can also install a switch I think to control the lighting levels

>> No.3180512

>>3180503
Hey get the fuck out, GBA isn't retro.

>> No.3180525

>>3180509
Yeah i'm aware that you have to fold the ribbon cables carefully to make them fit. I also have a Dremel Stylus so hopefully that does the job for trimming the frame down, although the seller I'm looking to buy from includes a new shell and I'm not sure if the shell is pre-modified to fit the screen or not. The color is at least nice and it will match my modded Viper Game Cube well.

>>3180512
It came out in March 2001. It's 15 years old which means it's officially retro now. Maybe if you eat your greens and don't do drugs, you'll be retro someday too.

>> No.3180530

>>3180525
It's doubtful that it's molded to just accept a GBA SP screen.

>> No.3180594

I'm upgrading my Dreamcast from composite to VGA/SCART.
What I'm having trouble with is that the official VGA boxes offer composite(?) as an option when a game doesn't support VGA. So I'd either have to deal with shit picture or change cables depending on what game I'm playing.
Is there a way around this? I want to avoid switching cables and non-RGB connections.

>> No.3181141

>>3180525
>It came out in March 2001. It's 15 years old which means it's officially retro now. Maybe if you eat your greens and don't do drugs, you'll be retro someday too.
By board rules it isn't, but I've always figured that a few questions about some older non-retro consoles are fine as long as the thread doesn't become them.

>> No.3181178

>>3180217
So the TV itself no longer displays any input? Something inside broke, you'll probably need to get a new one.

>>3181141
We haven't had much of an issue with it, and we usually are willing to help out even if it isn't /vr/, but if the guy is gonna act like this:>>3180525
Then they can fuck right off with that shit. Remember to report for not being /vr/.

>> No.3181420
File: 328 KB, 1075x763, ps1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3181420

Is this normal for a PS1 A/V Cable....?

>> No.3181454

>>3180594
There are only a few DC games that do not support progressive scan. Most games that don't officially support VGA can be forced to run in VGA without any problems.

>VGA Switch Trick:
>Before you boot your Dreamcast disk set the switch on your VGA Box so that it is outputting to the TV. Now preceeed to boot the Dreamcast Disk after the disk starts booting and before the dreamcast makes that chiming sound when it loads a game set the VGA Box to output to your VGA monitor. If your timing is right your Non-VGA game should now be displaying on your VGA Monitor. This may take a little practice to get the timing right but once you get it right you'll be tricking yout Dreancast like a pro

>DCX Boot Disk:
>I own a DC-X import boot disk for dreamcast. Normally you will load this disk in your Dreamcast before inserting your import game. If you press the 'y' button (after you have loaded the DC-X) it should display a menu allowing you to select from various out put modes (like 50 - 60hz) and one of them should be an option to force VGA mode.

>The above methods are not fool proof but should allow you play most Non-VGA games in VGA Mode. This will in turn allow you to play these games in 480p via a transcoder as well.

There is an expensive aftermarket VGA box that automatically switches to RGB scart for games that can't be forced to run in VGA, but I'm not sure where you can buy it, and they cost quite a bit of money due to being custom-made (they come in those laser cut acrylic sheet enclosures, so that should tell you what you're getting into).

>> No.3181493

>>3181178
>respond to an innocent inquiry about an old system with "GET OFF MY BOARD FUCKING NORMIE REEEEEEE!"
>get told off
>"WAAAAAAH REPORT THIS SHIT IT'S OFF TOPIC!"

>> No.3181517

>>3181420
Looks normal.

>> No.3181548

>>3181517
Really? What seems to be half a set of contacts is missing...

>> No.3181553

>>3181548
I don't know the pinout of the cable, but look it up. The empty areas are going to be things like R, G, B, sync, etc which a standard composite + stereo audio cable has no need for.

>> No.3181575

saw that my gamegear likely needs its caps replaced, but read online that it is a process that releases a lot of toxins into the air through melting old lead solder, glue, plastics, etc. The guide I was reading said to not even try it if you didn't have a fume hood. Is this a legitimate concern or are they blowing it out of proportion? I don't exactly have easy access to a fume hood.

>> No.3181580

>>3181575
>are they blowing it out of proportion?
Yes.

>> No.3181684

>>3181575
I have never heard of this and I've been soldering for years. They probably tried soldering once and it smelled bad, and they assumed their frail little pink lungs were being fried by it.

>> No.3181690

>>3181575
Are they themselves trying to sell a recap service?

>> No.3181694

>>3181575
The flux fumes will eventually give you asthma if you breathe enough of them. I just keep a window open and hold my breath when there's fumes. You can also get carbon filters with fans you put near the thing you're soldering and it will clean the air.

>> No.3181757

>>3181454
You're thinking of the Hanzo/Kumo VGA boxes. They're running orders/pre-orders now for about $40 iirc.

>> No.3181768

>>3181141
>>3181178
The board rules post was written 2 years ago. 2 years ago, a system from 1999 was 15 years old. Today, a system from 2001 is 15 years ago.

>> No.3181787

>>3181768
I don't care. Until the rules say otherwise, that's what you go by. Occasional shit slightly outside the rules is fine, but we don't need to be filled with kids talking about their xbox 360s here.

>> No.3181973

Anyone else in the UK succeeded in whitening a console casing? Finding the right percentage of peroxide to de-yellow it is proving rather difficult.

>> No.3182132

>>3181768
>the rules about age of concentration were written decades ago. I should be allowed to fuck a fetus

>> No.3182218
File: 63 KB, 1000x563, fdse.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3182218

I recently bought a SNES off ebay for a decent price and have been having a lot of fun with it. It came with the original Nintendo composite cable which would hold me over until I got the S-Video cable I ordered.

Cable came in the mail, S-Video looks great compared to composite, but I noticed a purple line running down the middle of the screen when it's totally black. I didn't experience this at all with the composite cables.

I then tried my PS1 S-video cable on the same TV and didn't get the line. Doesn't seem to be the TV. Then I tried the Nintendo S-Video on a different TV, still had the same issue.

At this point I assume it's a bad cable. I bought the variant that didn't have the yellow composite video attached because I read that it can cause problems, but after getting this now I assume all generic Nintendo S-Video cables are junk, so I bought an OEM Nintendo S-Video cable from Japan.

The Japanese cable came today and has the same issue as the generic one.

Now I have no idea what route to go. The issue is limited only to this SNES when using an S-Video signal. Does this type of thing happen to SNES consoles after awhile? I've been unable to find anyone who has this type of problem online.

It's not a huge issue since it's only visible on a black screen, but the whole point of buying the S-video cable was to get better image quality and this kind of kills it.

It's tough to capture on a camera, but here's a picture of the purple line.

>> No.3182267

>>3181787
So because the moderator probably hasn't even realized that the rules haven't been updated in two years, the status of "retro" is forever going to be limited to games and consoles from before 1999.

This is what we call "rule lawyering--" interpreting the rules to the letter rather than holding to the spirit of why they were written. You're probably a real hit at parties.

>> No.3182332

>>3182267
>"retro" is forever going to be limited to games and consoles from before 1999.
As it should be. PS2 and onward significantly changed both gameplay and hardware standards.

The dreamcast got in only because its only excluding factor was the "generation" marketing term.

>> No.3182496

>>3181768
And we use generations, not years, to determine systems. Which we both know it clearly says in the rules, you shitposter. And don't give me that "generations isn't a real thing" BS PALfags keep trying to push.

>>3182218
>I've been unable to find anyone who has this type of problem online.
http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?18935-SNES-vertical-line-issue
Your google-fu sucks.

>> No.3182578

>>3182332
Everything is retro eventually. You will survive.

>> No.3182645

>>3182578
Eventually isn't now. You'll survive not having your 360 here.

>> No.3182650

>>3182645
Dreamcast is a 6th gen console, and is allowed here. What arbitrary rubric do you use to claim that the other Gen 6 consoles do not qualify as Retro, but the Dreamcast does?

If discussion of other Generation 6 consoles boils your bottom so badly, no-one is making you talk about them. Just ignore it and look at the discussions you want to participate in.

>> No.3182656

>>3182650
If you could read you'd see that's already addressed.

Marketing terms should not carry more influence than years created and games shared with other platforms.

>> No.3182662

>>3182650
Release date, obviously. That's the only metric we've ever used here, though whichever dumb fuck rewrote the sticky is a goddamn moron for even mentioning 8th gen as being part of its inclusion.

>>3181768
That post was originally written in 2013 and nothing has changed. This board exists to discuss a certain period of time, you wouldn't go to a Civil War museum and start bitching about how they aren't covering WW1.

>> No.3182665

>>3182656
The PS2 is already as old as the Dreamcast was when it was declared "Retro," and it only came out a year later. This year the Gamecube and Xbox will be, and the Gameboy Advance is already past the 15 years old threshhold. "It's not retro for me" doesn't mean it's not retro for anyone. A few years ago I remember people in some circles were saying "not muh" when the N64 and Playstation were getting called Retro. It's not to difficult to grasp the concept that time is not static, and that many people have nostalgia for things that you perhaps don't consider to be particularly old from your particular life experiences.

>> No.3182678

>>3182665
Go ahead, then. If you care this much about this, make your own thread and stop shitting up this one with unrelated garbage.

>> No.3182716

>>3182678
This was all started because some anon got triggered over someone asking a question about modding a gameboy advance and wouldn't let it go.

>> No.3182739

>>3182716
I still don't care.

Until the rules are amended, I will stick with them, and the occasional allowance of some things that barely miss the window.

It's the people that whine and go on tirades about how they should be allowed that are the problem, not the people that have trouble with them.

>> No.3182743
File: 299 KB, 673x669, 1449630007741.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3182743

Here is a backlog of questions I have:

>I have a famicom with missing power supply, can I use another consoles? Is there a replacement for less than 10$?

>I have a sega master system that powers on and will play the built in maze gabe but carts give a black screen. How do I fix this (cleaned with alcohol already)

>I have an intellevision 2 with a missing power, how the fuck do I replace it?

>What is the cheapest way to replace intellevision controllers (the kind that are plugged into the mother board)

>> No.3182757

>>3182739
>Until the rules are amended, I will stick with them, and the occasional allowance of some things that barely miss the window.
And you are free to "stick to the rules" as much as you please, but no-one likes seeing someone throw a hissy fit because the mods aren't enforcing them to the unreasonable standards that they want.

If this was an actual problem, the mods would do something to reiterate that the Dreamcast is the last retro game console that will ever exist and that nothing else will ever become retro.

The fact that you think you need to take the law into your own hands by getting into confrontations with other users says that you probably think this is a much bigger deal than the mod who two years ago wrote a rule that you interpret as "nothing after Dreamcast will ever be acceptable here." If the posts aren't being deleted that means that your services are clearly not needed.

>> No.3182772

>>3182757
>If this was an actual problem, the mods would do something to reiterate that the Dreamcast is the last retro game console that will ever exist and that nothing else will ever become retro.

You mean like make a sticky?


>The fact that you think you need to take the law into your own hands
See, this is where you get stupid. This entire time I've said the occasional allowance is fine, but becoming regular is bad.

In the past there were entire threads deleted because a few people started talking about the consoles outside the rule, and I think avoiding that is better than screaming and whining about it.

Make your own thread, stop trying to get this one deleted.

>> No.3182779

>>3182772
>You mean like make a sticky?
The sticky was made in 2014. It never says anything about "this applies until the end of time." The Dreamcast was 15 years old in 2014, and 2 years later, other consoles from that time period are turning 15. If this makes you so upset, I'll just start a new thread suggesting that the sticky be updated to include systems made in 2001, and then you don't have to be mad about people discussing them anymore.

>> No.3182874

>>3182779
>The sticky was made in 2014. It never says anything about "this applies until the end of time."
The magic thing about stickies is that they can be changed if the rule is changed.


>I'll just start a new thread suggesting that the sticky be updated to include systems made in 2001

Way to go, you just discovered how to put out ideas without shitting up other threads with off topic garbage.


I'm still amazed you aren't smart enough to realize that someone that's okay with the occasional rule breaker isn't violently opposing you, but you can't expect anything better from the average /v/tard we get around here these days.


If you didn't understand it before, I'll reiterate: Posting about this in this thread will do literally nothing for you, because moderators don't patrol a repair thread for ideas on how to improve the board. They don't patrol this board at all. Last time I saw any mod take any action on /vr/ aside from the sticky was giving an ok for the gauntlet threads.
Make your own thread and be prepared for all the people that don't want the board to change, we certainly saw plenty on the Dreamcast update. I won't be there, because this is the only thread that interests me.

>> No.3184630

>>3182779
Actually that's what a rule means. It applies until it's changed.
I certainly understand your desire to have a moving cutoff date though. With you turning 15 this year you'd finally be retro.

>> No.3184654
File: 13 KB, 441x408, 14dg39x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3184654

>>3184630
>can't even come up with bantz that weren't already used I this same thread

Your time away from /v/ has made you and your memes weak.

>> No.3186834

>>3184654
>memes weak
Irony: The Post

>> No.3189583

I want the modern gen retards to stop shitting up this thread.

Does anyone know any good replacements for the conductive rubber pads for 6-button Genesis controllers? I got the ones from mortoff, and the pads for the buttons are good, but the pad for the d-pad is way too stiff. The original pad in it is very mushy from years of use, so I wanna replace it with something firmer, but not the ultra-stiff pad mortoff sells. Anyone know of any good replacement pads?

>> No.3190127

>>3189583
>modern gen retards
>rubber pads
>irony

>> No.3191565

I want to fix up my N64's joysticks since Mario Party really fucked them when I was a dumb kid.

What are the best replacement joysticks to get? Original styled, or GameCube styled?

>> No.3191749

>>3191565
Gamecube style lasts longer, but you have to make sure you're getting the second generation of them, since the first has sensitivity issues, and basically nobody tells you if they're the fixed ones or not.

>> No.3193018
File: 472 KB, 1133x720, sega genesis reset switch repair.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3193018

So today I decided to finally replace that busted reset switch in my Model 2 Sega Genesis. I couldn't find a source for a new rubber tact switch, so I used a tact switch instead. I had to bend the pins on it but once I lined it up, it worked out perfectly when I tested it. Not quite the same feel as the original since there's an audible click every time I reset, but it's just a reset button so that's fine. I had to file down the plastic on the end of the external button a bit to keep it from pushing the switch while it was turned on, because the new tact switch is a little bit taller than the old one (just by a tiny bit).

I also widened up the hole over the AV out a little so it'd fit my Scart cable, and washed all the case parts. I am currently waiting for them to dry, and after that it should be all systems go.

The hardest part in repairing the switch was to desolder the old one. Be very careful not to accidentally scratch up the leads on your board while applying pressure to those legs.

>> No.3193042

>>3180525
>It's 15 years old which means it's officially retro now
why can't you dumb memers just apologize, its not like you didn't get answers anyway

>> No.3193092

So you can reflash a Saturn action replay and turn it into a semi-softmod for playing game backups. Has anyone attempted to do this with the Playstation? I know you can use them to make disc swapping less damaging, but it'd be really nice to have a non-damaging playstation semi-softmod.

>> No.3193185

>>3193092
>So you can reflash a Saturn action replay and turn it into a semi-softmod for playing game backups

I've heard of experiments that have confirmed as much, but it's been a while since I looked into it. I really want to buy a Saturn mod chip but I don't know where to get one from, since the website I was going to buy one from went out of business (Sega Style). It's supposed to be super simple to install and only requires soldering one wire to a very easy contact.

>> No.3193205

>>3193185
I've actually got a 4+1 in the mail, gonna test it tomorrow -- I've always found the PS1 AR swap trick leaves less-than-desirable results, mostly broken music and triggering any anti-piracy software on the backup. Not to mention it automatically fumbles whenever you try multi-disc games.

>> No.3193259

>>3193092
As far as I'm aware no one has attempted to turn an out of production old cheat toy into a replacement for a commonly available $0.5 chip.
Actually I think that's what the fucktard with PSIO tried and failed miserably at.

>> No.3193285
File: 220 KB, 960x1280, game_boy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3193285

>>3172159
i finished the mod.
installing the bivert chip was a real hassle.
i also found a really simple mod to refine the audio on the headphone port so i went ahead & did that too. the guy on the video said to cut the wires, but i didn't think that was necessary, so instead i separated the wires & cleanly removed them from the solder joints.
the whole experience was kind of frustrating but also fun. i'm also planning to install an oscillator on an ntsc super game boy (if there is a diagram for the mod, i would be very grateful, not that i'm asking). after that, i hope to do more interesting corrective/beneficial mods in the future

>> No.3193547

>>3193285
I'm planning on doing the bivert / backlight mod on a DMG and adding a glass screen, but first I need to find a DMG that's either in good shape or good enough shape that I can swap it into a new shell, and pick a good, compact case to keep it protected. I'm planning on using green LEDs to look like an old electroluminescent backlight, and because many of the old GB adverts usually showed it with a glowing green screen (which obviously, it didn't actually have), which is the look that I'm nostalgic for.

When you installed the bivert chip, did you use one of the pre-soldered PCB kits, or did you wire the legs of the chip up directly? Also, what kind of difference does the Pro Sound mod make for the audio vs. the stock configuration? I've always been curious about it. I know musicians consider it a must-have but I'm more interested in how it sounds with a pair of good headphones hooked up.

>> No.3194689

Does the Neo Geo and the Neo Geo CD accept any controllers from other consoles?

>> No.3195138

I have a Saturn I just bought second hand. It asks for the date, and then it goes to a black screen with no main menu and no main menu and no game. If I put a CD in, it'll spin but the screen stays black. I tried installing a fresh 2023, no dice. Same happens if I shove an AR in it. Anyone have an idea what's going wrong?

>> No.3195143

>>3194689
No. But since the neo geo uses a standard connector and dedicated pins for each signal the interface has been adopted as a sort of standard and is used by lots of 3rd party devices.

>> No.3195223

>>3195138
Correction:

If disc is in tray: It'll spin up, take a long time, then do the sparkle animation and sit at the SEGA SATURN logo screen.
If disk tray is open: It'll proceed directly to the SEGA SATURN logo screen.

>> No.3195375

>>3195223
Update: tried fiddling with the pot and cleaning the lens some more. No dice. I do see an exact replacement of the laser lens part available via eBay. I was able to eventually get a music album to read with the existing, so I know the motor's moving and the controller at least /seems/ to work.

>> No.3195492

I know this post is going to get shit on but what ever. I don't have any place to really turn to for help.

I TSOP flashed an orgional xbox and everything went alright but when I go to delete the halo 2 saves off the hard drive, it crashes and restarts the console. I followed this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIw8k5areQg

Has anyone heard of this?

>> No.3196135

1/2
>>3179171
not sure about pseudo saturn anon but the universal modchips are really really easy to install. There's like 2 easy solder points and thats it.
>>3180349
if the sms has a rusty rf shield covering it you can throw that nasty shit away as it serves no purpose.
>>3182218
this plagues nearly all sneses/super senpaitachi to some extent and is normal. It's a voltage issue or something and will be there whatever signal you use. In fact the better picture you get the more obvious the line to the point where you start noticing it in game.
>>3182743
>I have a famicom with missing power supply, can I use another consoles? Is there a replacement for less than 10$?
not sure about the original famicom but my av famicom is fine with a mega drive or master system adapter (PAL)
>I have a sega master system that powers on and will play the built in maze gabe but carts give a black screen. How do I fix this (cleaned with alcohol already)
try resoldering the points where the cartridge slot joins the pcb or at least looking for cracked solder. I have this same problem with a mega drive 2 (i can play mega cd games through it but no cartridges) and can't seem to fix it.

>> No.3196140
File: 42 KB, 640x507, duor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3196140

>>3196135
2/2
>>3193018
nice job anon, what did you mean about the scart cable?
>>3193205
check that the 4 and 1 mb expansions work anon. Mine didn't and I had to send it back to be replaced after using it for ~3 months and not realising. Test Real bout special and vampire savior or something.
>>3194689
no but they're pretty easy to make yourself, also there's stuff like this that will allow you to use psx controllers http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=50&zenid=iq44885t7c1v8kn8n4eb2q85v5
>>3195138
read this, guy has exactly your problem:https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?146711-Saturn-black-screen-after-date-reset-ideas
sounds like a power problem maybe?
My question: I just bought pic related (pc engine duo-r) and want to mod it for RGB but have read there are a multitude of different ways to do this and amps you can build, etc. I am also using a turbo everdrive which i've read can draw too much power when combined with mods. What is the definitive RGB mod for the Duo-R?

>> No.3196149

>>3196135
>if the sms has a rusty rf shield covering it you can throw that nasty shit away as it serves no purpose.

Where I live, doing that gets you lots of interference due to heavy radio traffic, so it's not as useless as you claim.

>> No.3196158

>>3196149
fair enough, australia here so idk

>> No.3196161

>>3196158
having said that, japanese units never have shielding and wouldn't they have heaps of interference?

>> No.3196175

>>3196161
>japanese units never have shielding and wouldn't they have heaps of interference?

Maybe the display signal is a frequency far enough away from broadcast radio signals that interference doesn't show.

I live down the block from a fire station, so anything without active shielding picks up really bad interference at times.

Shit, I had a pair of speakers that, even when unplugged, would have audible radio chatter.

>> No.3196232

Does anyone here have a Famicom Disk System? I'd like to know what the dimensions of the RAM adapter are. I'm curious if it would fit into an NES cart if the 60 pin connector was removed, with a cable coming out of the top of the cart to the disk system.

>>3193547
Not the same anon, but those bivert chips are so cheap whether they have the PCB or if they're bare I would say just get the PCB. I backlit and biverted a pocket so there was no PCB option for me. It's not difficult to solder to the bare chip, but if there's an easy option that doesn't break the bank then why not?

>> No.3196583

>>3196140
>nice job anon, what did you mean about the scart cable?

The rubber on the end of the scart cable that connects to the console was a bit too wide and it was preventing the cable from making a solid connection with the console. There's a hole in the plastic over the connector on the console that AV cables are supposed to slide into, and the rubber on the Scart cable wasn't able to fit. I slightly widened up the hole using the sander bit on my dremel, and cleaned it up with some fines modeler's sand paper, and now the Scart cable plugs in perfectly.

>> No.3196595

>>3196232
Yeah that's the plan. The PCB version is almost as cheap as the bare version and besides that, it looks like a much more convenient way to install it.

It's possible to install the PCB version into a Gameboy Pocket and I've seen it done before, but you have to get somewhat creative with the wiring. Using a bare bivert chip is a better option with that model, although it's a bit of a pain to solder to and the end difference isn't nearly as dramatic as on a DMG since the Pocket already has a pretty good screen.

>> No.3196693

>>3196595
When I did my pocket initially I wasn't sure if I wanted it biverted so I installed the backlight first. The screen is better than a DMG that isn't backlit but you've got a pretty small window for contrast adjustment to get it right before you can't see anything.

>> No.3197425

>>3196232
I've got a FDS. If your going to put the ram adapter in a cart you may as well go with a disk emulator as well. Although that might defeat the whole purpose if you're going for hipster cred.

>>3196595
The best option is a SMT dual inverter. Two pins fit exactly on the solder points and the rest need jumpers less than a few mm. When done right you won't even notice it's there, let alone have large gauge wire soldered to a big chip tucked around the back of the board like every kid on the internet.

>> No.3197636
File: 98 KB, 1024x678, img1408_xrgb049.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3197636

>>3196140
>My question: I just bought pic related (pc engine duo-r) and want to mod it for RGB but have read there are a multitude of different ways to do this and amps you can build, etc. I am also using a turbo everdrive which i've read can draw too much power when combined with mods. What is the definitive RGB mod for the Duo-R?
should also mention i'm gonna be using it with an xrgb mini most of the time if that changes anything

>> No.3197828

>>3197425
I was actually thinking going disk emulator route. There's not a lot of FDS games I'm really interested in that I'd be willing to pay the entry fee for, I just enjoy doing all variety of mods and stuffing the RAM adapter in a cart seems like a novel way of allowing a front loader to be compatible with the FDS. Would you mind getting some measurements of the enclosure for me just so I can get an idea of the feasibility? I'd really appreciate it.

>> No.3198076

>>3197828
just so you know the everdrive n8 plays fds games

>> No.3198132

>>3198076
I know, but that kills the fun of a project.

>> No.3198147

>>3198132
I'm pretty sure what you're thinking of doing would turn out to be a bit of a mess. The only way I can think to do it in an NES cart would require many jumper wires, assuming they could even fit.

>> No.3198209

>>3197828
The size of the board is about 10.5cm x 9 cm. Here's a pic with a ruler if you need more measurements. Entry fee for pic related was ¥500.

>> No.3198274

>>3198209
Fantastic, thanks. Just the measurements are good, don't worry about going back to post the pic. I really appreciate it. That makes the RAM adapter a bit smaller than an NES cart (not sure about the thickness but that shouldn't matter when it comes to the PCB unless there's some large capacitors there). Looking at pics of a disassembled one online, it appears there's some dead space around the board too. Seems feasible, think I'll grab one.

>>3198147
Oh yeah it's going to be quite a mess of wires. I'd have to wire it up to a 60-72 pin converter. Removing the 60 pin connector on one of those should make it a pretty small piece of kit though.

>> No.3198347
File: 246 KB, 853x1170, my modded N64.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3198347

I just finished doing a bunch of work on my childhood N64 today. A while back I dremeled out the region tabs so I could play Sin & Punishment (which I still haven't bought but hopefully will soon), and today I installed the RGB mod, cleaned the reset button contacts (the reset switch had been non functional for many years), and for some extra aesthetic flair I dremeled out the area behind the logo and added a white LED and put some foil behind it for more even light distribution. I absolutely love how it looks when it's turned on-- it reminds me of the marquees you'd see on arcade cabinets.

Lastly I washed all the plastic while it was disassembled and polished it up with some pledge. Aside from a few dings and scratches it looks almost factory new. The games look beautiful running through RGB SCART also, even on my component cable CRT TV. As soon as I get paid this upcoming week I'm gonna see if they still have a gameshark available at the game shop so I can try some of those AA-off hacks.

>> No.3198350

>>3196693
Is it true that the bivert mod on the Pocket turns the pixels from black to blue?

>> No.3198360

Hey /vr/ I got a few SNES AC adapters with bad cords. Does any place sell just the cord ready to be soldered onto the brick?

Or better yet, the measurements for the SNES barrel plug.

>> No.3198363

>>3181548

Nintendo connectors are the same way. They don't wire up pins that aren't even used on the cable since that would be a pointless waste of copper.

>> No.3198550

>>3198360
SNES uses some kind of weird proprietary connector. Sourcing one isn't impossible but it might be tricky. The easiest solution would be to get one of those third party knockoff adapaters and transplant the cord, although that wouldn't necessarily be a cost-efficient option.

>> No.3198615

I've got a fat PS2 softmodded with Free McBoot, and was wondering if there is a way to play PS1 backups through the dedicated hardware, rather than the shitty software emulation? Haven't had much luck with this.

>> No.3198634

>>3198550
the one for the pal snes is the same size as the megadrive 1

>> No.3198645

>>3198274
Not sure why the pic didn't attach. Measurements were of the PCB not the case.
Yes, wiring will be a mess.

>> No.3199075

>>3198350
Yes. It isn't a bright blue like with the DMG. It's a darker blue.

>>3198360
It's not proprietary. Do some searching, I've seen the exact part number for the plug before which could still be ordered from electronics component suppliers.

>>3198615
Not /vr/, but no there isn't. Swap trick is your only option, which isn't as easy on a PS2. Or a hard mod. The PS2 basically just turns all of the PS2 hardware off when it goes into PS1 mode which kills the ability of a softmod to do anything.

>>3198645
Oh ok. Hm. Not much wiggle room then. Ah well, I think I'll still grab one and see what can be done. The RAM adapters alone are fairly cheap. Maybe if it's too much for an NES cart I could try one of the unlicensed carts.

>> No.3200128

>>3197636
Anyone?

>> No.3200287

>>3199075
I might have found a tip but I don't really want to pull the trigger on it until I know the exact measurements of the SNES barrel connector.

>>3198550
I've though about that but I really am not liking that idea. Only as a last result would I want to do that.

>> No.3200292

Is a genesis model 2 able to turn on without a cart inserted?

>> No.3200295

Anyone know when that famous white line is suppose to show up? I have both a SNES mini and a SNES 1Chip and both don't seem to have it.

Is it only noticeable over RGB?

>> No.3200302

>>3200292
Yes, you'll get just a black screen though. The BIOS text only comes up with a game inserted.

>>3200295
Straight down the middle of the screen. I've never noticed it on my SNES either, and that's with RGB.

>> No.3200305

>>3200295
Some consoles show the bar more than others and certain screens/colors also make it more prominent than others. My advice would be, if you aren't seeing it, don't try looking for it unless you are prepared to take the steps that apparently reduce visibility. Can't unsee and all that jazz.

>> No.3200309

>>3200302
Yeah, I know where it is, just wondering if it was over a certain connection

>>3200305
I am more then capable of taking the steps I think just I haven't noticed any SNES I've worked on having this problem.

>> No.3200327

>>3200309
Try watching the opening of FF3/6, that apparently is a good place to check. It won't be a "holy shit, look at that white line!" sort of deal, but if you notice any kind of vertical band of discoloration in the center of the screen, that's the bar.

>> No.3200396

>>3200295
the better picture you have the more obvious it is. i didn't notice it until I got a pvm. Then when I got RGB/a bvm it got super obvious. It's on all signals.
Some SNESs have less of a problem though it's still there. Apparently you can fix it with a couple of capacitors or just turn down your brightness/contrast.

It's there on a 1chip as well.

>> No.3200459
File: 231 KB, 669x640, 092348923489.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3200459

Hey guys I have a Yoshi Island cartridge for the snes that works fine for abour the first 5 minutes and then it just crashes, sometimes the game just stops moving but the music continues, some times it also glitches itself.

I already cleaned everything and changed the battery, the only other thing I can think of is the cap.

can someone confirm whats the value of a Yoshi Island capacitor?

>> No.3200478

>>3200327
I have neither.

>>3200396
I got a PVM but its only hooked up via composite video right now.

If it's just a few caps then that's easy as fuck.

>> No.3200484
File: 2.22 MB, 4020x2300, Sega-Genesis-Mod1-Bare.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3200484

Hi guys, is there any way to improve the sound quality of the Headphone jack on a Genesis 1?

I can hear noise when I plug my headphones.

Probably replacing some caps?

>> No.3200490

>>3200484
Replacing the caps and cleaning the slider with some contact cleaner would be the first few steps I'd take to improve the audio.

>> No.3200498

>>3200490
which caps should I replace exactly?

>> No.3200503

>>3200498
All really, but if you have to, the ones around the sound encoder.

>> No.3200505
File: 71 KB, 960x540, 13140496_10154272897594427_1509841210_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3200505

>>3157703
It gave it life, haven't used it since 2005 or so.

But I do have burn in problems, if I leave an image for too long, (like the inventory screen in Minish Cap) it will get burned in, and then slow fade out until disappearing.

Not much of an issue but I would like to fix it anyways.

>> No.3200509

>>3200484
I was using a shitty 3rd party power adapter and when I switched to the official one all my sound problems stop, so that should be the first thing you should try

>> No.3200514

>>3200509
I'm already using a first party adapter tho.

>> No.3200517

>>3200514
then follow the advice of the other anon bud

>> No.3200523

>>3200514
Then you've ruled that out as a possibility. As another poster said, clean the contact for the volume slider.

>> No.3200540

>>3200484
Try cleaning the port real quick, worked for mine.

>> No.3200616

>>3200478
Hmm, I though of something. I replace the 7805 in all systems regardless of them working or not. Do you guys have new 7805's in your SNES consoles?

>> No.3200648

>>3200505
It's the ribbon cable adapter you're using. I'm guessing it's the one that's just a straight connection between the two screens with the wire soldered on right? Those connectors are shit. I'm not sure what the exact problem is but I would guess that burn in effect is due to a lower voltage possibly. Buy one of the ribbon cable adapters with a two way brightness switch. It has circuitry to stabilize the voltage. It also stabilizes the voltage for GB and GBC games when you're using the high setting so that the flicker is gone.

I had that same issue and as soon as I switched cables everything was perfect.

>> No.3200704

>>3200648
>It also stabilizes the voltage for GB and GBC games when you're using the high setting so that the flicker is gone.

Fuck, I totally forgot this issue, you hit the nail lmao.

So, I'm using this exact one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Backlight-Backlit-Screen-Mod-Ribbon-Cable-Adapter-for-GameBoy-Advance-GBA-40-Pin-/181854590008?hash=item2a5760d438:g:RJAAAOSwLVZV5mFl

It didn't required any cable to be connected, can you send me a link of the one should I use instead? (my gba is a 40 pin one)

>> No.3200760

>>3200704
This is the one you'll want:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/GameBoy-Advance-GBA-Backlight-Ribbon-Adaptor-with-Brightness-Switch-40-pin-/400771955089?nav=SEARCH

They were fairly knew when I got mine and I had to use a taobao agent to get it. Luckily you can find them on eBay now. The brightness switch will sit under a cutout in the battery compartment so that you can adjust it without disassembling the system. It's a really well made cable.

>> No.3202293

>>3200616
>I replace the 7805 in all systems regardless of them working or not
>Carnac predicts this will become the next recap maymay

>> No.3203940

Do consoles get slower over time?
My n64 when running Mario 64 has shown some slowdown. Is it the cartridge or the consoles that may require some cleaning/replacement?

>> No.3204085

>>3203940
Yes. You should defrag your carts on a regular basis.

>> No.3204098

>>3200616
I need to, actually.

>> No.3205183

>>3203940
Try putting the cartridge in the dishwasher. Make sure it's on the "heavy load" setting and not the "pots & pans" setting.

>> No.3205505

regarding the Famicom/NES Stereo mod
Is it really worth it or should I stick with dual mono? what are the benefits of NES Stereo to something to the likes of the Genesis?

>> No.3205521

>>3205505
The NES doesn't output Stereo. The best you can get out of it is dual mono.

>> No.3205529

>>3205521
This pretty much. NES has several sound channels but games were written around the fact that the NES only has one output so splitting off some of the channels will only distort the audio, it doesn't really give you "stereo"

>> No.3205532

>>3205521
>>3205529
appreciate the advice m8

>> No.3205543

>>3200616
There's probably no reason to do that in most cases. If you need to replace anything you should start with the power capacitors

>> No.3205548

>>3205543
Most systems I get are rusted to shit. Rather be safe then sorry.

That's another thing I do when working on the systems though.

>> No.3205615
File: 1.83 MB, 3200x2368, IMG_20160510_220555.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3205615

Bought a Sega Master System Model 1 (US) today. Didn't power on, suspected it was the Voltage Regulator (7805). Desoldered it and soldered a new one in and it powered on and plays, but no sound. Keep in mind, this is using RF cable.

I looked here, to see what components could prevent sound from outputting, and they all seem okay (except haven't tested the PSG IC yet). The RF cable I'm using seems to work okay with my Genesis.
http://www.smspower.org/Development/SegaMasterSystemServiceManual#ICBDPBPALVA11715534

Does anyone have experience with this? I don't have a composite cable yet, but it is on the way. Has anyone had an RF modulator go bad on them?

>> No.3205619

>>3205615
there are a few caps in the RF unit itself as well as transistors. They could have gone bad. Unfortunately that involves soldering the entire unit

>> No.3205639

>>3205619
Is it possible that the system will work just fine with just composite? Should I just take out the RF unit?

>> No.3205704

>>3205639
Its entirely possible it might work fine with composite.

Just saying if you want to replace any parts in the RF box, you're going to have to remove it.

>> No.3205708
File: 853 KB, 700x700, Tomba.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3205708

Sorry that this question sounds completely retarded but can I play official japanese PS1 games on my chipped PAL PS1?

I don't know what's installed on it because a friend did it for me about 18 years ago but it runs burned discs and regular PAL discs just fine. Just asking before I start buying imports on the cheap incase they wouldn't work for whatever reason. Thanks for your time

>> No.3205713

>>3205708
I think the PS1 was produced when PAL60 wasn't around. So, I think you'd have to region mod it as well for NTSC.

Not too sure. But it sounds like you should just import a Japanese or American System and chip that.

>> No.3205724

>>3205713
Thanks dude, I'm not a smart or practical man so it sounds like burning discs is probably my best bet for the time being

>> No.3205727

>>3205724
Most likely for your PAL console.

Not too sure what is involved with a region switch on a PS1 if such a mod is even possible.

>> No.3205893

>>3193185
I heard there's someone on the Assembler forums selling universal mocdchip v4's, which have the best comparability yet (my v3 from sega style works just fine, even though other people have had problems with it, so you'll probably be fine if you get a v3 instead of a v4)

>> No.3205898

>>3177193
update on the PS one slim rust issue. I managed to get all the rust off, with a brass scrubber and loadsa wd40 but couldn't get off some of the blackened corrosion, but it should be fine and and act as a protective layer against further rust, so long as I don't expose the shield to more water.

>> No.3205987

>>3205708
You can, or at least my mod chip does work with burned japanese/us discs without problems.

But depending on your model, you have to use rgb-scart cable to get colored picture or otherwise its black&white(which isnt caused by TV, but rather some component missing in PAL ps1 or something like that IIRC).

Also unlike what >>3205727 says, ps1 does the region stuff from the software, which mod-chip should to automatically, or at least mine does, but I cant be sure since you dont know what modchip you have and if it works or is installed properly.

>> No.3205998

>>3205898
is there anywhere I can buy ps1 modchips?

>> No.3206024

>>3205998
eurasia (dot) nu/shop/default.php?cPath=52&PHPSESSID=18006b692ef72e3fa4ed4cd0f7ca1998

>Error: Our system thinks your post is spam.

>> No.3207252
File: 442 KB, 1600x1558, 1414334874688.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207252

Best way to clean GBC pin reader?

>> No.3207564
File: 34 KB, 400x389, $_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207564

>>3207252
Buy one of these. I got one for $10 brand new on eBay, which is probably less than it cost when they were still in production. Works like a charm, and is compatible with every version of the Gameboy and the Gameboy compatible DSes.

>> No.3207573

>>3207564
*I should note that the "fluid-free" cleaning wand works pretty well although once in a while, you might come across a stubborn cart. I had a copy of Mario Land 2 that the wand just couldn't handle so I opened it up and cleaned it with Q-tips and windex. The cleaning cart for the Gameboy's pin reader works great, though.

>> No.3207576

>>3205893
That user is Zer02k11. I purchased a Universal V4 and a region free BIOS from him, both were great.

>> No.3207616

>>3207564
How the hell are people finding so many brand new copies of these kits? Did it sell that poorly? We were so ignorant back then...

Thanks for the info drop, though!

>> No.3207629
File: 23 KB, 350x454, GAMEBOY%20CLEANING%20KIT.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207629

>>3207616
My guess? Nintendo made a ton of them since it was something every gameboy owner was presumably going to need eventually. A lot of people didn't, though, because not every gameboy's contacts got dirty enough to prevent games from reading. Usually it was the cartridge that was at fault, and it could be cleaned with Q-tips and alcohol or windex. There was also competition from third party manufacturers, many of whom sold their cleaning kits for cheaper than Nintendo. There's also the fact that Nintendo never had to update the SKU for the cleaning kit and kept manufacturing the same one all the way through the Gameboy Advance.

The last new cleaning kit Nintendo designed was the N64 version, and that one apparently sold poorly because they're hard to find at a good price. I bought a third party cleaning kit for my N64 new in box for only about $15 and it works great.

I'm of the opinion that every cartridge-based console in one's collection should have a cleaning kit to match, because while there are plenty of ways to clean a cartridge with household products, the pin connector is much harder to clean and having a kit makes things a lot easier.

>> No.3207735
File: 1.06 MB, 3264x2448, 20160510_025334958_iOS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207735

I snagged a model 1 non-tmss genesis for $11 in bad condition. There was a lot of rust/debris I cleaned off the RF shield and the metal edges of the board. I got a capacitor kit to recap the board, on my way through the process I noticed the power switch was pretty heavily rusted/corroded at the bottom. Is there a way to test with a multimeter if the switch is properly switching? I'm kind of new to this repair stuff, and learning as I go. I was able to test and confirm that power is going through the adapter port to the leads on the board, but it won't power on so I'm not sure how to proceed to test from there. I want to say the switch is the main culprit, but like I said, not sure how to test it.

>> No.3207740
File: 1014 KB, 3264x2448, 20160510_025405665_iOS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207740

>>3207735
Another camera angle

>> No.3207750

>>3207740
If you got a multimeter setting it to continuity and testing the under side connections should tell you if the switch is working.

>> No.3207763

>>3207750
Yeah but there's 3 solder points on the bottom, which points should I be expecting continuity on?

>> No.3207770

>>3207763
Well, test them all, then flick the switch, and some should be different.

Don't do this with the power on

>> No.3207798

>>3207770
Fair enough, I tested each combination of the contact points with both positions of the switch, and no signs of continuity at all. Guess the switch is fucked. Can't find any replacements online either. Any ideas for a substitute without cannibalizing another genesis?

>> No.3207807

>>3207798
Digikey might have a replacement.

You should definitely remove it and clean up all the contact points on the board though and check for continuity. All those points look really rough.

>> No.3207816
File: 829 KB, 250x130, done with life for today.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3207816

>>3207807
>look at digikey.com
>click on switches category
>eyes glaze over looking at the table
>1/149 pages

Does anybody know how to navigate this site? Any hints on how to narrow down the results?

>> No.3207827

>>3207816
can you take a picture of the underside of the switch?

>> No.3207880

>>3207827
Well I was going to work on removing the old switch tomorrow after work as it's about midnight now. I was able to find a super-blurry photo from someone's auction (shit, wish I had seen that when it was still open a couple weeks ago). It's just three pins in a row, not sure about what it specifically looks like from below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/sega-genesis-model-1-replacement-power-switch-part-/191853825983?nma=true&si=lI21D1UNdaZYIB%252FbRQCtArACc8Y%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

>> No.3207897

>>3207880
Yeah I saw that too

On the maintenance manual its listed as a "Slide sw MSW-10-010 HOSIDEN"

You could take the board into an electronics store and try there. I think it might be a On-On SPDT

>> No.3207950

>>3207897
Any idea what those letters/numbers in the part name mean? I'm not knowledgeable in this stuff.

>> No.3207958

>>3207950
Most likely the model number.

I don't think it will help in this case. Going to have to find a replacement. At least one with two of the tabs for grounding so its supported.

>> No.3208002
File: 208 KB, 680x678, MSS120004.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3208002

>>3207958
Yeah I can find some switches on digikey that kiiiiinda look similar, but without more info on voltages and circuity things I obviously don't feel comfortable just rolling the dice, especially where power is concerned.

>> No.3208050

>>3208002
Just get something at or above 12v.

And that might work. You'd need to compare the stock switch to the data sheet they have on each part.

>> No.3208852

bamp

>> No.3209398
File: 75 KB, 349x170, SMSFM22.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3209398

>>3205615
>>3205704
Well good new, composite cable came in. Works great, sound, picture, everthing. So it was the RF modulator that is dead.

Should remove the RF modulator from the circuit board in case there is a leaking cap or something?

Also, has anyone used this FM sound mod and can vouch it works great? From the same guy who made the NESRGB

http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=202

>> No.3209665
File: 28 KB, 423x270, P1000795.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3209665

I got a Genesis Model 1, HD Graphics ver, with TMSS. There is a significant amount of static noise coming from the headphone jack. I am using the correct official Sega power supply.

Any way to reduce this noise or will it always be there?

>> No.3209728

>>3209398
>Also, has anyone used this FM sound mod and can vouch it works great? From the same guy who made the NESRGB
Yes it works fantastic, you can change between FM and PSG trough a switch.

>> No.3209908

>>3209665
ded caps

>> No.3210171

If a machine has some rust inside but still works fine, what happens if you do not clean the rust?

Will the rust spread and infect the rest of the internal components?

>> No.3210206

>>3210171
>Will the rust spread and infect the rest of the internal components?

Eventually.

Think of rust as iron cancer.

>> No.3210489

>>3209398
I tried installing that in a friends Master system. Seems a bit hit or miss. His board was a revision that wasn't covered though in the instructions so take that as you would.

And you can remove it. Re-cap it if you want.

>> No.3210517

>>3210489
>His board was a revision that wasn't covered though in the instructions
Do you remember which specific board revision is was? Mine is US NTSC manufactured in Jan 1987, so I think mine is ok.

>> No.3210520

>>3210517
I don't sorry. Just make sure your revision is on the instructions.

>> No.3211482
File: 1.02 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3211482

if I have a Genesis model 1 with a headphone jack whose cables came disconnected from the motherboard, can I just re-strip the wire and solder it to the point underneath the corresponding spot? Or will it cause a problem if it's not in the yellow connector?

Sorry I realize this is a pretty stupid question but I'm new to electronics work like this

>> No.3211491

>>3211482
I would say it's worth a shot. I doubt there's anything special in the yellow piece, just a bit of metal running through the board.

>> No.3212364
File: 75 KB, 520x350, GDEMU.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3212364

Got a GDEMU for my Dreamcast with a broken disc drive. A++ 11/10 would recommend.

>> No.3212504

>>3212364
How much does this cost?

>> No.3212595

>>3212504
too much

>> No.3212597

>>3212595
like $150?

>> No.3212638

>>3212597
Something like that, and you need to be put on a waiting list that opens up a few times per year.

>> No.3212640

>>3212638
Oh, well shit.

>> No.3212651

>>3212504

Says it's 110 Euros for the unit alone, not including shipping. So it's pretty expensive but I'd still buy one now while the dollar is relatively strong.

>> No.3212894

>>3212651
Actually it is 110 euros, shipping, tax, etc included.

>> No.3213009
File: 6 KB, 366x286, 1458036816288.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3213009

>>3212894
that's not too bad.

What's the compatibility like and how do you switch disks?

>> No.3213263

I fucked up and bought Isopropanol instead of Isopropyl. Can I use this stuff to clean PCBs or did I just waste my money?

>> No.3213396

>>3213009
Not too bad? I paid 50€ for slightly yellowed Dreamcast that was hardly used. And I thought I overpaid. The board with both chips is worth around 40€. I don't think that labour is worth more than 10€ per board.
I don't expect him (or them?) to do this for free, but 110€ is just too much to be worth it.

>> No.3214268

>>3209398
Removing the RF modulator isn't a terrible idea. You can try to repair it and put it back if you want, although no-one should be using an RF signal for gaming anyway.

>> No.3214271

>>3209665
As >>3209908 implied, recapping it should do the trick.

>> No.3214284

>>3213263

It's the same thing anon

>> No.3215686

>>3214284
Well that's a relief, thank you.

>> No.3217008

bump

>> No.3217775

>>3212651
That's a pretty damn high price to pay to play Shenmue 2 in English.

But totally worth it.

Honestly though I am glad that flash drives are putting some new life into these old consoles, especially in the case of the Dreamcast where some of them are dying. Short of a replacement GD-Rom drive this is the next best thing, and at that point you really don't need to worry about anything else breaking.

>> No.3217845

>>3212364
I got enough spare DCs to last the rest of my life and probably most of my kids for less than you paid for that.
Some years from now I'll buy a second hand Chinese knockoff for a few bucks.

>> No.3219690

If your Sega Saturn's startup doesn't make sounds, but it will play sound from music CDs, does that mean something wrong with the BIOS?

>> No.3220569

>>3219690
You didn't bother to check if sound works in games?

>> No.3220609

>>3220569
Can't get that far. Just tore it apart, checked all the components for obvious flaws, swapped in a brand new optical pickup, reflowed some nasty looking solder joints, and it's still not playing sound for the startup animation. It takes ages to get to the main menu, where it usually misidentifies games as long audio CDs, and once in a blue moon it'll play a music CD. Sometimes, it'll just boot to back.

It's one of those 'inconsistent symptoms" sorts of troubleshoots.

>> No.3220790

>>3220609
Well unless you specifically fucked up the BIOS I doubt that's the problem. Discs being seen as music CDs could be lots of things, usually a bad burn. Have you tried originals?

>> No.3221263

>>3220790
I've tried a proper copy of Virtua Cop, and a nearly untouched music album. Haven't attempted CD-Rs yet.

>> No.3221264

>>3220790
I specifically wonder it because I haven't seen anyone mention a silent startup online.

>> No.3221380

Bought a DC of Ebay for 20€ "untested" because of missing cables. My old DC is fucked so I still have cables etc., tried to boot it up... of course it doesn't read CDs/GDs.
Tried to adjust the pot, always only turned the screw a little bit, but after reaching like 1/3 of a full turn I gave up since the disc reading got worse. Stopped to spin up full force etc., at some point before I managed to get the SEGA Logo to show put it froze there. Now I turned the screw a bit back to some point where it would at least spin full force up and try to read.
Is the whole laser unit fucked? I still have my old DC that got a fucked output but afair a working laser. Could I just swap them between consoles?

>> No.3221762

>>3211482
It should work.
You can also try looking for a replacement. Those kind of connectors usually have the wires crimped to a piece of metal and inserted into the hole.

>> No.3222239

>>3157703
Is that an SP screen modded into an original GBA? Looks real comfy.

>> No.3222417

>>3221380
That shouldn't be too hard. iirc you don't need to de-solder or do anything to crazy to change the whole CD unit.

>> No.3222473
File: 300 KB, 619x399, 143685271553.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3222473

not sure if i should be posting this here but i want to build an emulation machine for stuff no older than early 2000s (ps2 would be the limit), is there a dos and donts for building a pc with old parts? a recomended OS or something like that? i have a spare cpu with no internet sockets and a slow-ass celeron, a relative told me he had tons of old spare parts i could use.

>> No.3222552
File: 24 KB, 700x450, Original-PlayStation.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3222552

I've got an original grey UK Playstation who's laser isn't doing so well.

I use it for playing oddball import titles like the Yaroze collections, but the laser has pretty much gone to the point where it's not running retail games any more.

It's not modchipped, and it's not the very original model with the RCA sockets on the back, but it does have the long extension slot on the back (I use a cheat cartridge to run CDRs).

I was thinking perhaps I could replace the laser, or the entire laser section with a replacement part (from ebay?).

What should my next move be? I'll get you the model number as soon as I'm able.

>> No.3222658

It's not strictly retro, but it'll be used to play retro games

On a PSP-1001, is there a way to update it to OFW 6.60 WITHOUT a memory card or UMD? The included memory card is too small for the update by kilobytes, and none of my UMDs have 6.60.

>> No.3222704

>>3222552
Google "PS1 replacement laser". No, seriously.

>> No.3222772

Have a Sega Genesis Model 1 I got super cheap because it doesn't work, it just displays a black screen no matter what.

I cleaned it thoroughly inside and out, it was quite filthy and had dead insects and crap inside. Resoldered all the pin connections related to power, video, and the cartridge. Tested the voltage regulators (outputting 5v exactly) and cleaned out the cartridge slot completely with fine-grade sandpaper and 99% isopropyl alcohol/contact cleaner. I fully cleaned and polished all the pins on a known working game and tested the system on two different tvs with two different video cables. Still get the same goddamn black screen. I know the video is working because in both cases the screen actively turns black (and the PVM recognizes the switch to RGB) and the speakers give that "pop" sound that happens when a device is powered on for the first time. No video, no audio out of the headphone jack or AV cable. The only thing I haven't tested is RF video but I can't imagine that would make a difference.

Is there something I'm missing? Is there something I didn't test/clean? All the capacitors look perfectly fine but I guess that doesn't mean anything in the long run. Any suggestions for something I should test? Is it possible that one of the chips is just dead? How would I go about testing something like that?

>> No.3222775

>>3222473
Windows 7 nlited would be the least bloated and most compatible.

>> No.3222803

>>3222775
hmm ok, i was thinking of windows xp since it even has the ms dos configurations and all but i have had some terrible problems installing emulators in it, thanks for the recomendation

>> No.3222807

>>3222775
wow, really thanks, never knew that nlite existed, looks just what i was looking for so long

>> No.3222896

>>3222704
I'm not sure what I'm looking for in there though.

I've seen chinese-made 'new' replacement lasers on eBay, but I've also seen vid reviews describing them as very cheaply made and rickety and only barely a substitute for the real deal.

I've read that PSones can donate a laser to a grey PS too. Have you done something like this before?

>> No.3222910

>>3222772
From what you've described, my 2 cents would be the BIOS has gone funny or the cart slot isn't connecting right.

That is: it's trying to boot, first the BIOS tries to calculate the checksum of the inserted cart, and shows the 'LICENSED BY' screen if it likes it, else a black screen.

So if the CPU is bad, nothing will happen at all.
If the BIOS is bad, the routine for checksums won't work.
If the cart slot is bad, the data to/fro won't happen.

The things to check are the CPU, BIOS and cart slot. My rookie guess would be check that they're all getting the right pwr/gnd voltages to the right pins. You might have to resolder them? Hopefully not though because they're fragile.

>> No.3222919

>>3222896
with modification (in the form of trimming some excess plastic from the cd tray to make room, and a laser extension cord), the PSone's laser will work in any of the PSX machines.

>> No.3222926

Anyone got advice for cutting plastic? I'm adding in an external Molex power connector for my Neo Geo CD (mainly cause I'm too cheap to pay 100 bucks for a real NGCD power supply) and I'd like it mounted so I can connect/disconnect the re-purposed HDD power supply that's gonna power the system.

>> No.3222937

>>3222926
A dremel with a cutting tool really is fine, get a file to make nice edges. Just go as slow as you can and make sure that only the cutting wheel is making contact with the plastic. When I cut my NES case for a multiout port for the NES RGB I got a bit absent minded and nicked the plastic with the piece that you tighten the accessory into.

>> No.3223008

>>3222910
Thanks, I'll have to look up schematics to figure out what pins are what, but that's for another day.

Would you happen to know offhand which chips are the BIOS/CPU? Maybe a stupid question to ask but if it can save me a little time I'd appreciate it

>> No.3223031
File: 1.78 MB, 2592x1944, MD1_IC_BD_M5_USA_VA2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3223031

>>3223008
http://segaretro.org/Mega_Drive_PCB_revisions

Motorola CPU in the top next to cart slot, long chip.
Zilog CPU in bottom centre, above SEGA screening.

Looking for info on the bios chip (possible but doubtful it's in the die of another chip). It'll just be an ordinary 16-bit wide ROM I believe.

>> No.3223040

>>3223031
Appreciate it

>> No.3223076

>>3222937
>a dremel
I figured that was fine, but no harm in asking.

>> No.3223528

>>3223031
>>3223040
Also, don't overthink it.

Clean your game's connector with some lighter fluid and try inserting the game slowly, all the way in, then pulling it back upwards 1/2mm. (So that the game is still snugly inserted, but not completely down.)

Works wonders. :)

>> No.3223534

>>3223528
Found what I was looking for about the bios:

http://md.squee.co/Trademark_Security_System

According to this, the 'bios' I was thinking of is embedded in one of the genesis-specific IO chips rather than being a discrete block. There's no bios routines on the genesis (unlike the GBA for example), so its tiny and doesn't appear as a distinct chip. The IO ones are the large flat square ones rather than the long, off-the-shelf DIPs. It's not likely they've gone bad, and if they have, it's 'new system time' really.

>> No.3223801

>>3223528
>>3223534
Thanks, I woke up, tested it with a fresh spray of contact cleaner (don't have lighter fluid), pulled it up very slightly, but still nothing. I'd still like to test the CPU next time I get a chance.

I get what you're saying about "new system time, but I have a working Model 1 and I love it, was just hoping to bring this one back from the dead so I can gift it to a friend. I have another non-working system that's in worse condition but that's a separate set of issues. I need to find what traces connect to the power switch because it and its connection points were completely rusted through and had to be removed.

>> No.3224630

Do the standard PC Engine/TG16 and the CoreGraphx models have cap issues? or is it really just every other model that does?

>> No.3224651

So the rectifier diodes I ordered a month ago finally arrived. There's just one problem. I ordered RL201's, and I got RL207's. From what I understand, they are specced similarly, but the 207's have a higher voltage that they can have fed to them. If this is true, then I can use these. The problem is I can't seem to find any concrete info through google. Any electrical anons in the know who can tell me if I have the right idea or if I'm way off base?

>> No.3224678

Anyone have any idea why the laser of a CDX won't even move? I bought it used; seller claim he "didn't test it" and sold it to me with (what I found is) a 12V PSU.
The CDX uses a 9.5V supply. What could've gotten burnt and how can I fix it, if anything?
It boots fine, cartridges and 32X work well, but the CD is a no-go.

>> No.3224775

I've got a Caanoo with a dead battery.
I just bought a 3100mAH 3.8v Galaxy Note 2 battery for £8. (Anker brand)
From what I have read people have replaced the batteries in their GCW Zeros which is kind of similar hardware wise and the Canoo has a rectangular shape in its case for its battery so I'm hoping it fits. (Else I'm going to file the plastic off and masking tape the bloody battery on)
Hopefully removing the plug from the old battery and soldering it onto the + and - bits will work. At worse I would have lost £8 and a little time. I don't use the handheld much but I'd like to fix it and lend it out to family.
(Almost £30 for a replacement battery from Korea. Fuck that.)

>> No.3225863

>>3224775
Ok. I kind of fucked up a little.
When I took it apart today and measured the battery, it goes a bit over the plastic bracket.
Not too bad since I can file that back. One of the vibration motors fell off but that's a non-essential. I might actually remove them to lighten it up.
However, it might overlap the USB port on there.
But. Hope is not lost since the USB port on a caanoo is mostly useless since it's not used to charge, only for plugging in add-on hardware like a wifi dongle I don't have. I'm tempted to remove it entirely.
I should just be able to de-solder and pry that sucker off right?

>> No.3226874

Hey guys. My Saturn keeps asking for language/time/date every time I turn on my Saturn. I've changed the battery, twice. Not sure what's going on.

>> No.3226878
File: 43 KB, 800x600, nintendo-game-boy-1st-gen-3ge-800.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
3226878

Need help with an original Game Boy.

A few months ago I noticed it wouldn't turn on, even with fresh batteries. There was no damage to it, it just stopped working. However, recently I got an AC adapter and tested it. Turns out the thing will run fine on the mains but won't turn on with batteries.

What could be causing this? It doesn't make any sense to me.

>> No.3226893

>>3226878
Can you post pictures of the battery connectors? My guess would be that they are corroded or a wire has come loose.

>> No.3226897

>>3226878
Control power path from the battery contacts through the sense switch (in the DC jack) till the power switch.

The sense switch will be closed if nothing is plugged in and opened if it is. The reason is to disconnect the batteries to avoid shorting them with the external DC source.

>> No.3227206

>>3226874
You're looking in the right direction. But only someone with access to the machine is going to diagnose this.
No, this isn't a common thing that happens.

>> No.3227361

>>3227206
Might open it up and take pics.

>> No.3227516

>>3227206
If you don't see anything obvious when you open it up take some pics. Most likely there will be something loose or mucked.