/CRT/ Thread - Needs More Genies

[Anonymous No.3116850]

Previous Thread - >>3090572

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3116857]

>>3116509
>>3116482
Still being a bit strange, but I believe I've gotten down the proper settings:

GBA:
Screen Resolution: 640x480
Aspect Ratio Index: Custom
Custom View Port X: 82
Custom View Port Y: 40
Custom View Port Width: 480
Custom View Port Height: 160
Integer Scale: Off
Set VI Screen Width: 704

GB/GBC:
Screen Resolution: 640x480
Aspect Ratio Index: Custom
Custom View Port X: 160
Custom View Port Y: 48
Custom View Port Width: 320
Custom View Port Height: 144
Integer Scale: Off
Set VI Screen Width: 704

The above settings give an image of almost the exact same dimensions as the output of the GBPlayer using GBI Low Latency. You need to reconfirm the screen resolution AFTER modifying VI screen width, otherwise the image the image will be too thin. I'd also suggest:

Leaving HW Bilinear Filtering ON while you're changing these settings, otherwise things will be extremely difficult to read. Disable it once you're ready to play(and make sure you've selected the core you plan to use before hand). Alternatively, leave Aspect Ratio Index at 4:3 until you've got everything else set.
Turn Integer Scaling ON to get the values up to 320 and 240 respectfully before tweaking things, otherwise you'll be counting up quite a ways.

All of the above was done using the Gambatte and mGBA libretro cores via Retroarch 1.3.3 from buildbot.libretro.com

[Anonymous No.3116885]

Daily reminder that Shantae is extremely overrated.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117141]

>>3116857
Cool. I'll experiment with it myself when I have finished this Mega Amp mod I'm working on for a genesis I'm selling on ebay.

Looks pretty good so far (just S-video modded). Much less likely to offend anyone like my personal system would (RCA jacks drilled in the back).

I know this is a bad place to ask, but what does /vr/ think? Would people pay more for it if I put some RCA jacks on the back for stereo audio and composite video so you didn't need a special cable?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117153]

>>3117141
and inside. I don't have a proper s-video cable yet, that's still shipping. Also the main reason that I have RCA jacks on my personal system is that I do not own a Genesis A/V DIN cable. That's why there's a test lead sticking out the back - audio.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117168]

>>3117153
and CRT pic.

[Anonymous No.3117171]

>>3117168
That's S-Vid? Looks damn good. I was always under the impression that S-Video wasn't a huge step-up from composite...

[Anonymous No.3117175]

So I just picked up two monitors but they have some pretty bad purity problems in the corner and edges.

I know the guy who sold them to me told me he had them shipped to him from a long distance. I don't know how long or what condition this guy kept them in.

I've had them for over a week and tried to degausse daily 2 times a day but have had no luck. I know sometimes there are bigger problems going on within the casing but would it be wise to look into a degaussing coil or wand? I don't want to spend $50-100 only to find that it can't be fixed with a coil

[Anonymous No.3117189]

>>3117171
svideo is a huge improvement.
I'm in rgb land and I was surprised how close it is to rgb when I tried it.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117192]

>>3117171
On a lot of systems it isn't, but S-video at 240p resolutions IS technically good enough to replace RGB if the encoder is any good. The chroma sampling rate is high enough.

RGB looks slightly better here (a bit brighter and the s-video still suffers from slight rainbow banding). But it's a huge step up from composite - you can actually see individual pixels.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117197]

>>3117175
Maybe a wand would work, but I'd be fucking with the position of the deflection yoke myself. Are the two corners with purity issues opposite diagonally of each other, e.g. the top right and bottom left corners? if so you need to move the yoke forward or backward.

[Anonymous No.3117209]

Looking on craigslist for the best display for emulation on PC.

What is the largest size (screen diagonal) of consumer CRT that is flat screen and has the blue D-sub VGA connector?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117212]

>>3117168
>>3117192
Also keep in mind that these were taken with me using dissected cat5e cable instead of a S-video cable with shielding.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3117214]

>>3117209
>flat screen
why, WHY???

The best CRT's are not flat screened. You will have a lot more geometry issues on a flat tube.

I can't help you there because I've yet to find a flat screened PC CRT that actually looked good enough for me sitting two or three feet away.

[Anonymous No.3117217]

>>3117214
flat pc monitors are usually ok, because they're deeper than tv relative to their size.

[Anonymous No.3117220]

>>3117217
I've still not found one with really good geometry, though depth definitely helps some.

My largest monitor that I can use with my PC is my 20L5, but I need to use a bit of 7400-series IC logic to combine hsync and vsync into composite sync.

[Anonymous No.3117223]

[Anonymous No.3117230]

>nearly everyone in these threads wants a CRT for authenticity
>they also want a CRT larger than anyone would have actually owned in 1992 outside of RPTVs
>they want direct-view
>they want basically a modern 52" HDTV but older
I wonder why no one can find a TV or monitor that just looks good and be happy with it. Stop trying to go for the huge-ass monitors and just enjoy what you can actually get.

If you want authenticity, go for what you had in 1990-1996. If you were born after 1996, and don't remember, then you are underage and need to leave and go back to your precious LCD with a scaler because that's what you're asking us for.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117232]

>>3117223
That a 20 inch panasonic/JVC 15khz monitor? Or a PC monitor with fake 240p?

[Anonymous No.3117239]

>>3117230
getting bigass/pro quality tvs/monitors for pennies is a thing.
not wanting tech advances because MUH NOSTALGIA is a pretty dumb state of mind

[Anonymous No.3117241]

>>3117153
have some pride in your mod work, RITbro.

[Anonymous No.3117242]

>>3117214
Ok I will accept curved CRTs for my emulation computer but they of course need to be 31Khz.

What is the largest screen size that was available for home PC users to buy?

[Anonymous No.3117245]

>>3117241

[Anonymous No.3117254]

>>3117242
outside of monsters I might not be aware of, I think largest pc crts commonly available were 21".

[Anonymous No.3117258]

>>3117232
The latter.

[Anonymous No.3117262]

I have a Sanyo DS27930 flat screen CRT as a hand-me-down from a parent. I love it because it has two S-video inputs and a component video input, coupled with my AV switcher is perfect for all my retro systems. Now, the more I use it, the more I see some flaws. The bottom left corner has some blurriness to it, and the right edge of the screen sort of has a "squashed" look to it. If I'm playing a side-scrolling game the right side of the screen kind of "warps" in as if it's an accordion expanding or something. I think there are other vertical sections of the screen in various places that seem kind of warped, but not extremely noticeable. The left side behaves similar to the right but not nearly to the same degree.

Are these issues common or do I have a TV that's faulty/dying? I might be able to get a free Sony trinitron flat screen from someone else, but I don't know if I should expect similar problems, also it doesn't have as many inputs on it

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117264]

>>3117245
>>3117241
Heh, that's cool.

My personal genesis has RCA jacks drilled into it for RGB, a 74LS08 IC for buffering the Genesis's poor-quality CSync signal, and two more RCA jacks for csync and mono audio. Do you think I should put composite + audio on the back of the one I'm selling?

I got this genesis bundled with my Sega CD, so I'm trying to make back all the money I can and hopefully some profit. But I want to be nice about it, too, so I'll be starting the auction relatively low when I actually list it and hope that someone likes what I've done to it. I really want to know if people would still buy it with RCA jacks drilled in the back, since some here see that as 'ruining' the console. I don't see it that way myself, but it seems to be a popular opinion.

I'm not at RIT right now though - found a cool job in a company that designs electronics back in Indiana, so I'm there now. Planning to head back to RIT sometime, though.

>>3117242
I don't know what the absolute largest is, but I know that if you want an all-around great PC CRT, the GDM-FW900 is often considered one of the best ever. It's 16:10, but I bet you could use the OSD and a ruler (for ratio measuring) to put it into 4:3.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117265]

>>3117258
Ah, okay. Thought those were pretty damn thin scan lines for a 15khz monitor.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117271]

>>3117262
This sounds typical of flat screen geometry problems. Also, the blurriness might be fixable my rotating the convergence rings inside the set.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117274]

>>3117241
I do have some pride. I love my Famicom.

[Anonymous No.3117276]

Are HD CRTs good for anything? A thrift store near me has a 720p Samsung set I was thinking about buying, but I don't know what I'd use it for.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117282]

>>3117276
Watching HD movies and playing RPGs where timing isn't important (most non-Paper Mario RPGs).

[Anonymous No.3117284]

>>3117276
ps3/360/wii/wiiu

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3117291]

>>3117284
The Wii is not 720p. The best things for a wii are a 31khz broadcast monitor or a PC CRT with something to convert YPbPr to RGB (or a european Wii).

that reminds me, does the european Wii run at 60hz? Can it?

[Anonymous No.3117303]

>>3117271
So... Would that involve me taking the TV apart? Sounds like a terrifying experience, with how heavy that thing is. I've also heard about people getting electrocuted when taking TVs/monitors apart.

[Anonymous No.3117304]

>>3117230
True enough for 4th gen, but in the latter half of the 90s a lot of us had CRTs in the 30" range with s-video for our Saturns and Playstations.

That said, personally I think blowing up low-res output to huge sizes looks bad, unless you've got a setup where you're far away from the display for some reason.

[Anonymous No.3117332]

There is literally nothing video games about this.
You're talking about televisions, not video games.
Go to >>>/g/

[Anonymous No.3117342]

>>3117242
you ask this in every god damn thread

youre lucky to find a decent CRT at all
what does it matter what the record CRT size is? you have no fucking way of finding the largest one so why does it matter?
the fw-900 is a best common pc crt
bigger ones exist ik carmack had a pair of 24"

take what you can get and stop spamming the thread

[Anonymous No.3117360]

>>3117332
We've had CRT threads on /g/ before

they despise it

[Anonymous No.3117390]

>>3117303
theres really not very many parts in a TV that can shock you

you have to understand its basically impossible to find perfection

i would say 90% of CRTs you find will need adjustments

[Anonymous No.3117406]

>>3117342
>>3117242


Fw900 is probably the best all around even if it's not the biggest size wise. It also works VERY well for modern stuff

Bigger stuff like the Gateway destination monitors are 4:3 and 31khz but seem to be less common

You can still find some fw900's if you look around (pic related)

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3117410]

>>3116857
Just realized a typo:

You want 640x240, not 480.

[Anonymous No.3117452]

>>3117264
>Do you think I should put composite + audio on the back of the one I'm selling?
i would, i've sold tons of svideo/av modded genesis consoles with no problem. the better picture quality (for consumer americans) of svideo is a big turn on, plus having the audio jacks means the buyer doesn't ever need to find a proprietary cable

hell i have a bin of model 2s just waiting for some free time and still haven't sold my two modded TG-16s

[Anonymous No.3117580]

>>3117197
No, the purity problems stick to one one side on each monitor. The entire right border is green on one monitor and the bottom left is green on the other. Could have just been banged around

[Anonymous No.3117589]

So, let me be the first to tell you, over time, Cathode Ray Tubes degrade and decay. Eventually, you won't have anymore CRT TV's or monitors available that display well or are in good condition. This is a very real prospect in the next 30 or so years. Even if you maintain them and adjust them and don't use them much, they naturally decay and degrade over time producing a shittier image.

If you really think lines are required for retro gaming, you should consider why scanlines are not generated on emulators or new compilation CDs/discs for retro games. Or why scanlines are not part of the Wii virtual console or other retro playback machines.

But that's neither here nor there. The true answer is, pixel art is not supposed to be obstructed by scanlines.

[Anonymous No.3117601]

>>3117589
>mr nobody has spoken, hear his words
>or not

[Anonymous No.3117626]

>>3117589
>scanlines is bad
>i have no evidence

[Anonymous No.3117802]

Suggestions?
Ive tried degaussing wand and magnets

keep in mind taping magnets or small pieces of metal to the tube will considerably warp the convergence.

another thing this is a heavily shielded complicated older model BVM so taking it apart is no small task

[Anonymous No.3117824]

So, at my job we're working on replacing the last of our CRT monitors. I don't have any brand names, pics, or stats, but would I have any success using a PC CRT with retro consoles? A few of them had very good looking picture quality (as far as I could tell anyway). And what would I need to convert composite/s-video/component into VGA, preferably without any quality loss or input lag?

[Anonymous No.3117836]

>>3117824
>PC CRT
The Dreamcast is really the only thing that will do 31 kHz.
I guess you could use it with an upscaler/linedoubler such as the XRGB-3 as well. You'll have the benefit of no lag (or at least so I hear) with XRGB-3 in linedoubling mode.

Also you could get a transcoder and run more modern (480p and up) consoles such as PS2 and XBOX on it.

I'm thinking about getting one of those so I can play Project Diva on my PS3 without any of that pesky lag. That said, it still looks pretty neat at 480i on my PVM (in particular thanks to the underscan option, not wasting any resolution here)

[Anonymous No.3117840]

>>3117824
PC CRTs dont support 240p/480i

so unless you have an upscaler it wont work with your Retro consoles (aside from the dreamcast)

[Anonymous No.3117841]

>>3116850
GB Player?

[Anonymous No.3117849]

>>3116885
Daily reminder 4chan is inhabited by contrarians.

[Anonymous No.3117857]

>>3117291
when you convert the YPbPr to anything, will this create input lag?

[Anonymous No.3117879]

does anyone know if there are any tvs around 20" or smaller (for a desktop next to my pc) that have HDMI and YPbPr?

[Anonymous No.3117884]

>>3117836
>>3117840
Interesting. Thanks for the info anons. Maybe instead I'll use it for retro PC stuff instead, as there's no way I can afford that XRGB thing. Are there any other options for cheaper or am I SOL?

[Anonymous No.3117892]

>>3117884
There are many other linedoublers that could be used, especially if scanlines is of no particular importance to you. The cheapest ones tend to lack RGB, though.

[Anonymous No.3117896]

>>3117857
not when transcoding, unless the transcoder is doing something horribly wrong.

[Anonymous No.3117943]

>>3117896
what is transcoding?

[Anonymous No.3117976]

>>3117802
bump

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118042]

>>3117943
He means where the signals are run through a matrix multiplication on the fly. RGB is highly related to YPbPr and after sync is extracted it's simple to mathematically derive RGB. It could be done with discrete transistors theoretically, though matrix multiplication with discrete transistors is something that I need to read up on. A ADC -> CPLD -> DAC would also work pretty much instantaneously.

[Anonymous No.3118045]

>>3118042
There are also op-amp circuits around to do it, but a dedicated chip is probably a better choice.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118047]

>>3117802
My 20L5 looked exactly like this after I first reinstalled the yoke when fixing it. I loosened the deflection yoke and tilted the yoke so the coil was closer to the glass of the tube on the right hand side, by pulling on the right side of it (right side when the screen is facing you).

Then I had to use 100% silicone caulk to glue the yoke back in place.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118059]

>>3117589
yes, and eventually your LCD will be dust. My family has had the same sylvania TV console set since 1964. They last a long time and your point is moot.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118061]

>>3117879
HDMI, no. YPbPr yes. But they are uncommon at that size.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118067]

>>3117884
Get one from a TV station. I've spent approximately $20 on all my CRTs combined ($5 for an Apple IIe monitor and $15 for some BNC adapters and shit for my broadcast screens. I agree about XRGB, that price is bullshit.

[Anonymous No.3118071]

>>3117626
>i have no evidence

Here is your evidence.

Antiquated forms of technology forced to display scanlines were not implemented that way in the artwork, instructions manual, or the actual reproductions of the games.

Limitations of the display technology of the time did not mean that is how the image was supposed to look. If that was the case, pixel art would include scanlines as part of the design or art.

Your argument that scanlines were part of the original graphical intent doesn't take into account other forms of media, like early LCD tvs or projectors.
>>3118059

Mentioning an LCD is a strawman. I'm simply saying the "Retro" look of CRTs or scanlines are a product of antiquated display technology.

And that Sylvania 1964 TV set is NOT DISPLAYING how it did in 1964 now. It is literally impossible.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118076]

>>3117879
If you want a CRT to sit next to your PC screen, and your PC screen is 16:9 or 16:10 and measured at around 20 inches, a 20 inch 4:3 CRT will be WAY too big. My 14 inch CRT fits next to my 24-inch 16:10 monitor pretty well, my 20L5 would be almost twice as tall as my PC screen. Pictured: 20 inches is huge.

[Anonymous No.3118117]

>>3118076
>>3117879

http://www.displaywars.com/
use this to calculate and compare monitor sizes

remember CRTs measure diagonally across including the bezel (20" CRT= 19" viewable size)

LCDs measure diagonally not including the bezel

and anon you want a Multisync with an HD Fury
or a really small HD CRT (with an upscaler maybe depends)

[Anonymous No.3118132]

>>3117589
>why scanlines are not generated on emulators

uhhhh, they can be?

>The true answer is, pixel art is not supposed to be obstructed by scanlines.

Cool non-sequitur. Real "scanlines" don't obscure anything, they're just gaps in the raster scan.

[Anonymous No.3118183]

>>3118117
only pc monitors. tv's and pro monitors are all measured in viewable size.

>>3118132
this man is right.

[Anonymous No.3118187]

>>3118071
>artwork, instructions manual
never have games artworks looked like the actual game does
why doesnt the art look like composite or rf?

>actual reproductions of the games
im sure when they needed a reference for creating the remakes they didnt use a CRT

most likely an upscaler or some sort of in house emulator to copy the visuals

[Anonymous No.3118217]

anyone here own a PC CRT with an SLG-3000?
How does it look compared to a pvm?

[Anonymous No.3118270]

>>3117884
http://arcadeforge.net/SLG3000/DIY-Scaler-Kit::29.html

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118291]

>>3118132
I don't always emulate, but when I do, I don't use scanline filters. They're just a nice artifact of CRT display technology. I like to play on CRTs because it feels right, and because I grew up playing games on CRTs. But on a computer I don't go full-on batshit crazy because there aren't scanlines and the black levels aren't as good.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3118293]

>>3118183
Actually the 20L5 I have has the same viewable size as my PVM-1944Q. The 1944Q was made in 1989, and sometime between then and the early 2000s sony switched. My panasonic monitor from 2003 is measured in viewable size, though, thus BT-H1390YN (13 inch diagonal).

[Anonymous No.3118298]

>>3118217
what is a SLG-3000? What you say makes it sound like it's not a PC monitor, but then you ask about a PC monitor 'with a SLG-3000'. Is that some crap scaler that makes artificially large scan lines instead of just being satisfied with the scanlines that are already there?

[Anonymous No.3118320]

>>3118298
PC CRT monitors dont have scanlines
they dont support 240p

SLG-3000 isnt a scaler it just adds accurate scanlines to 480 or 600p
its not crap from what ive seen

that thing linked a few posts above includes a scaler to scale 240p to 480p which is then connected to the SLG 3000 for accurate scanlines on LCDs or PC CRTs

[Anonymous No.3118323]

>>3118293
hmm it seems I was wrong about pro monitor, also the sony pvm-4300 had a 45" screen. shit
>>3118298
it's a scanline generator. I would just use a gonbes board and a t-slg but I'm a cheapass

[Anonymous No.3118331]

So instead of buying an SLG3000
what's preventing me from doing this?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118526]

>>3117241
Wait, is that hot glue on that PCB?

I try hard to avoid hot glue except for mounting purposes.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118539]

>>3118323
>scanline generator
Your video card is already a scanline generator. You mean it ignores every other line of video?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118551]

>>3116271
I don't think 1chip RGB is any better or worse than wii YPbPr, really.

>>3117427
Still smaller than my old laserdisc player's remote was, I think. Pretty big remote though.

[Anonymous No.3118552]

hi i recently got a Sony KV-TF21M61 and the image is tilted slightly anticlockwise, i cant seem to fix it using the service mode is there any work around to fixing it?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118554]

>>3118331

I don't think anything will except possibly horizontal frequency. If you stretch it (do something like 640x240 doublescan) that should work. I've done it myself once or twice.

[Anonymous No.3118569]

>>3118552
IMO it's not worth trying to fix it if it is minor.
To fix it you have to loosen the deflection yoke and rotate it. There's a big chance that you'll screw up the purity and convergence and it's a bit of a pain to fix.
You could also try to see whether you can rotate the whole tube with respect to the bezel, probably easier.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118572]

>>3118554
nevermind, just looked again. That should work as-is.

Linux master race!

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118574]

>>3118552
Rotate the deflection yoke. Sorry, it's not a simple thing.

You will possibly have to redo convergence or purity afterwards. If you are careful to not move it forward or backward but only rotate it, you might be alright.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118578]

>>3118574
P.S. did that to my 20L5 too.

[Anonymous No.3118580]

>>3117212
do you use meth 20l5 guy?

[Anonymous No.3118590]

>>3118569
>>3118574

i have no idea how to do any of that, thanks though, i think its more trouble than its worth since its quite huge(21 inch) .the thought of tinkering anything inside scares me

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118605]

>>3118580
No, but I'm cheap and try to make do with what I have. What I have is about 70 feet of cat5e that I have been slowly stripping and using for projects. My Famicom AV mod/power board used cat5 wire, for instance.

[Anonymous No.3118610]

Does a 17" pc crt that is rated for 1600x1200 @65 Hz sound legit to you guys?

Its fishy because the maximum horizontal sync is 86 which is really high for a 17 inch
but the vertical is kind of low at 140

with that kind of horizontal sync it should reach very high reses for a 17"

im not going to run into some kind of strange limitation trying to force 1440x1080 at 75Hz right?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3118615]

>>3118610
Jesus christ. 86 hz? that must do like 2 fps 12x6 video or something.

Seriously, give units. It's not that hard.

I can't do any math to say definitively whether this one will do it, but I have seen small-ish sets that can handle high resolutions.

[Anonymous No.3118627]

>>3118615
86 Khz sorry

most 17s ive seen only go up to 70Khz

http://xtiming.sourceforge.net/cgi-bin/xtiming.pl
im using this for calculations

the reason im skeptical is because its compaq and all the dell aperture grill 17"ers max out at 70Khz

[Free 20L5 guy No.3119058]

The Mega Amp board is coming along nicely so far. Gotta hit the bed though.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3119060]

>>3119058
underside

>>3118627
If it says in the manual or whatever that it'll support that resolution, it'll support it. Not sure if 75hz will work off the top of my head, though.

[Anonymous No.3119087]

>>3118132
Cool un-definition. scanlines are the places the picture is being drawn and the black areas are called 'scan lines' by some morons because they aren't there before the scanline filter on their emulator gets applied.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3119089]

>>3117836
>PS2
GC would have been a better example; Larger proportion of 480p compatible titles.

>>3117291
>that reminds me, does the european Wii run at 60hz? Can it?
It supports PAL60, so yes.

>>3117841
see
>>3116857
I don't have a GB or GBA flashcart, and certainly don't have a actual copy of Shantae. It runs great with via the Gambatte core.

[Anonymous No.3119454]

>>3118526
yeah, little dabs just to ensure wires stay put. hot glue is incredibly easy to remove, just a bit of iso alcohol and it literally falls off.

i feel like it's a little signature. my finger print in every little dab of glue.

[Anonymous No.3119459]

>>3118605
i think he was referencing your stellar ppm stat

[Anonymous No.3119465]

>>3118067
>Get one from a TV station. I've spent approximately $20 on all my CRTs combined
God, I understand why people hate you. Everything you say has this air of bragging and entitlement about it.

Don't get they guy's hopes up. Where do you even live? Because in my area, pretty much every TV station junked all of their CRTs years ago. I spent weeks calling, e-mailing and visiting dozens of stations in my area, and all I did was waste time and gas. You casually mention it as an option as though every TV station will just take you to their CRT kennel and let you pick your favorite.

[Anonymous No.3119632]

Anyone living in rural areas will never ever find working PVMs anyway

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3119650]

>>3119454
Hot glue on PCB s just reminds me of Drakon's work. I don't use any hot glue on my genesis mod so far (for the one I'm selling).
>>3119459
Yeah, I post a lot.

>>3119465
The reason I started using the name was so people would know that bragging wasn't the only thing I ever did, but that I actually had some advice and stuff to offer that I'd been anonymously posting before. Fuck off. I was saying that if money is a problem, it's a solution that worked for me.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3119653]

>>3119632
Fort Wayne is pretty close to being rural. It's basically just a ton of stores farmers visit. You'll need to visit some sort of town or city to have much chance of finding anything, though.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3119660]

>>3119465
Since I forgot to reply to you above, Fort Wayne, Indiana.

[Anonymous No.3119676]

>>3118331
If you're using a PC, you absolutely don't need an SLG3000. You can just output 480p and insert alternating black lines using shaders or software filters for the same exact thing as an SLG. Also, many PC monitors will natively display 240p if it is refreshed at 120Hz, since the limiting factor is the horizontal scan rate minimum of 28-30KHz for most PC CRT monitors.

Also, it's highly recommended to output either method with an extremely wide horizontal resolution like 2560 or 3840, and configure the emulator to stretch to that aspect ratio. It will appear normal on the CRT despite the wide aspect ratio, due to the way CRTs work. There are a large number of possible resolutions that games of different systems can use and you can easily run into scaling problems, but using output resolutions with such large horizontal widths will make those problems unnoticeable. It greatly reduces the number of modelines you need to create for each game/system as well.

[Anonymous No.3119790]

[Anonymous No.3119791]

[Anonymous No.3120048]

>>3116850
>scanlines on GB game
you fukt up

[Anonymous No.3120056]

>>3119676
thanks

today i was thinking about 'what if i ran 240p at really high hz to emulate 15khz'

so i started googling and its just like you said

pretty cool that you can get almost bvm quality out of a common PC crt

[Anonymous No.3120124]

>>3119650
you're still a braggadocios, egotistical douche with a mild spectrum disorder and delusions of grandeur. I mean you can't even admit you're a broke ass amateur on an anonymous image board. No you gotta namefag, pretend you're cheap and make excuses and redirect every time somebody points out that you are in fact what you try so hard to not be.

>Hot glue on PCB s just reminds me of Drakon's work.
you're a hack too...

I'm not even keenly perceptive, so it's not only I that can see through the charade but the board as a whole. That's why you got TOLD the first time you posted here. We would have had more respect if you had came here admitting you were broke ass amateur enthusiast that is cutting up all his shit and using scavenged parts because that's what you have access to.

You may as well just go back to talking shit all the time, people couldn't like you any less.

[Anonymous No.3120171]

It's not a crt thread without some 20l5 guy hate


What effects corner convergence? placement of the set in the room? my set has very good convergence everywhere except one of the corners (about 25% of the top left square) so adjusting the rings might fix that part and ruin everything else. It's too fucking big for me to move around the room and experiment

[Anonymous No.3120192]

>>3120124
meh

i dont like his mods but he's helpful

just keep this thread chill yo we dont have to run off all the namefags

[Anonymous No.3120251]

>>3120192
>i dont like his mods but he's helpful

not even.
always come with "composite is good enough" or "muh palette"

[Anonymous No.3120258]

>>3120251
why would i care about consoles in a crt thread?

[Anonymous No.3120274]

>>3119676
im curious about something
cant find an answer online
what if i wanted to watch some old movies in 480i? could i make some video player work with 3840x480i?

[Anonymous No.3120364]

>>3120258
/vr/

[Anonymous No.3120381]

Can someone point me to a good S-Video cable for a homebrew'd Wii? I can't tell if everything on amazon is trash and my PVM is Composite and S-Vid only

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3120385]

>>3120048
Nah

[Anonymous No.3120393]

>>3120385
looks pretty fuckin cool desu

[Anonymous No.3120407]

>>3120385
looks kind of blurry

[Anonymous No.3120457]

Im considering selling my BVM in order to buy a quality PC CRT monitor since I only emulate anyway and using>>3119676
this anon's idea

You think I'll be missing out on anything?
Id rather not have 2 CRTs around and this is essentially a multisync hack for anons that only use emulation

[Anonymous No.3120459]

>>3120381
there's the official ones (~$35) or you can roll the dice with a s-video and composite cable.

[Anonymous No.3120489]

>>3120459
thx hombre

[Anonymous No.3120505]

>>3120274
If it's a 15KHz display, then you can probably just make a modeline for that and use it with the video player.

For 31KHz, probably best to stick with 480p with either simple deinterlacing or with a shader that inserts interlacing black lines. I don't think 480i at 120Hz will work very well, but I could be wrong.

[Anonymous No.3120508]

>>3120457
pc crts tend to be stupidly sharp, on par with mid/high end pvms/bvms. But if that's what float your boat go ahead.

[Anonymous No.3120538]

>>3120505
>>3120508
thanks anons

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120552]

>>3120251
>he's always like 'muh composote' or 'muh palette'
Only on the NES/Famicom which never even internally process in RGB. The NESRGB has no even mostly accurate palettes, so I choose composite video in that case only as the highest quality a NES's hardware will generate.

But yeah, this is a CRT thread, and if you disagree and like your NESRGB then fine. Just don't get personally offended by my different priorities.

[Anonymous No.3120554]

https://youtu.be/AGigrMXElcs?t=326
interesting

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120559]

>>3120385
My favorite pokemon game. My copy's got a problem where I basically need to wedge a nickel into my game boy to play it, though. Going to reflow some solder sometime soon, I think. Maybe put some solder on the pins to make them thicker.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120567]

>>3120457
If you are in my area (northeast indiana), I'd buy it and drive to pick it up. If you're only emulating, you won't lose much.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120574]

>>3120192
>I don't like his mods
This one look any nicer? >>3117141
Since I'm going to sell this one once the mega amp is done ( >>3119058 ), I care about how it looks.

[Anonymous No.3120583]

>>3120552
>Just don't get personally offended by my different priorities.

don't shove them into everyone throat then.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120591]

>>3120583
Yes, I've done a lot of that recently and the majority of my posts in the last 2 threads have been shoving down peoples' throats. Seriously, fuck you.

[Anonymous No.3120596]

>>3120591
(ツ)

[Anonymous No.3120631]

Can someone recommend me a decent composite 240p to 480p vga scaler?

I was thinking the cga2vga but it only does component.

I can handle a little bit of lag.

[Anonymous No.3120637]

Do crt computer monitors emit radiation? From the front or back?

[Anonymous No.3120650]

>>3120567
Nah I'm really far away
The dirty south

[Anonymous No.3120669]

What would be the best way to hook up my SNES to this bad boy? Also, any reason why I shouldn't pick up this monitor? The price seems too good to be true.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-SONY-Trinitron-PVM-8041Q-Portable-Color-Video-Monitor-4-035-084-01-/291694491120

[Anonymous No.3120670]

>>3120637
10 bananas worth a year

[Anonymous No.3120674]

>>3120669
Too small
(under 10 inches is gonna be a bad time)
The price isnt that good

look at panasonic and ikegami besides just sony

which snes model?

[Anonymous No.3120701]

>>3120669
Well if you're going to hook an SNES to that then I'd obviously go with RGB via SCART or whatever you feel like using.

And if you can find one like that but with the HR Triniton moniker then I'd pick that over the one you linked to.

Aside from that it should be a great monitor if you don't mind the size. Just better hope they pack it well. Wouldn't want any surprises when you get it.

[Anonymous No.3120702]

>>3120669
that seller should be reported for that shipping

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120803]

>>3120650
Indiana has everything the bible belt has except it's catholic and physically north of it.
Rednecks and homophobia and all that fun stuff. The other week we passed a law banning abortions based on disabilities. Your kid has down's syndrome? Sucks, but aborting it is illegal.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3120819]

>>3120702
Yeah, just typed my zip code and the price with shipping (which is $25) comes to $65. What a rip.

As someone with a 14 inch monitor, which is already pretty small unless you sit close (which suits me fine), you don't want to nearly halve that to 8 inches. You could have your nose pressed against it to read text. It'd be a lot like using a nexus 10 or something similar. Totally not worth it. My nexus 6 screen is about as wide as that monitor's width. Just shorter in landscape.

[Anonymous No.3120821]

8" is only worth it for the test bench imo

Way to small to comfortably play anything

[Anonymous No.3120851]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Trinitron-BVM-1310-CRT-Monitor-/272203063103?hash=item3f60911f3f:i:272203063103
pretty good deal if anyone is around there

[Anonymous No.3120857]

>be me
>be playing my Gameboy
>suddenly realize it's an 8-bit game with no scanlines

>wondering how I can get the scanlines back
>video game developers designed their games with scanlines in mind, so why can't I get my scanlines on my gameboy

G-guys, I'm scared... CRT scanlines aren't just antiquated technology interfering with the developer's pixel art... How do we get scanlines on the original gameboy?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3120865]

>>3120407
It was. That was when I was still just screwing around and learning the new camera, and the autofocus didn't pick up as nicely as I would have hoped. Didn't feel like going and taking a better picture at that moment. This one is sharper, but has moire problems.

>>3120459
It's a larger connector, so even if the S-Video/Composite cable turns out to be shit, if the pins are still there, hacking together your own probably shouldn't be too difficult.

>>3120559
I've actually been considering doing that to a N64 GS I bought a few days ago, in the off chance the reason it isn't working is an issue with the contacts; With my luck, it's probably an issue with the firmware, as I've already tried every game I own in the chance it's a key code issue.
Depressing, since I was really hoping to try out those filter removal codes on some games.

>>3120674
If you think that's bad: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281946807326

[Anonymous No.3120867]

>>3120857
why do you care?

[Anonymous No.3120873]

>>3120857
gameboy looks worse interlaced

[Anonymous No.3120880]

>>3120857

Why are you so hung up on scanlines?

We get it, you hate them, no need to sperg out when others like them.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120956]

>>3120865
I am in awe. That 5" screen is hardly bigger than a camcorder viewfinder tube.

[Anonymous No.3120961]

Hello everybody.

I have a Sony Trinitron Vega with 2 S-video ports.
One in the front and one in the back.
The one in the front suffers from some kind of noise or interference.
It is like RF snow but not anywhere near as bad. There are tiny white specks flickering whenever the screen is dark.
If the character has a dark jacket for example it seems to sparkle with activity.
On composite the color is normal and flat.
The rear S-video connector is working normally.
What caused this problem and how do I fix it?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120968]

>>3120961
My first guess would be a shoddy solder joint, my second would be the more likely bad internal PCB layout. Just use the one on the back with an extension 4-pin mini DIN cable or something like that to wrap it around front.

[Anonymous No.3120978]

>>3120857
>3120857
I got you anon.
SNES 70$
Super gameboy 12$

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120981]

>>3120978
>SNES $70

Dear lord, are they really that much now? Six years ago they were $35 at a local store.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120986]

>>3120978
>>3120981
5 minutes on ebay and I found one for $40. Looks like auction ends in 15 minutes.

[Anonymous No.3120987]

I've given up trying to take good pictures of my pvms screen with my phone's camera, every time I take a picture the colours get all blurred and the pixels look like they're bleeding into each other. Its weird, because it only looks like that on finished photos. I think my lens is busted...

Also Im thinking of getting rid of my framemeister, since the difference I get from my PVM as opposed to my upscaler to my HDTV is astonishing: there's zero lag to speak of. Playing mega man and super ghouls on my pvm, or any crt is a Fucking dream. Seriously I can't imagine going back. Though to be fair, I think it's more of a problem with my television then the framemeister itself, might be a good idea to simply hang on to it...

Also I really really want to get a genesis + Sega CD, playing sonic 1, 2, 3, sonic CD, Eccho the dolphin, and Snatcher, I feel like it's criminal that I'm currently missing out on those. You guys think it's worth grabbing just for those games? Once I have the consoles I'll definitely begin collecting for them, plus a big advantage is the games are cheaper.

In any case, here's my current setup. Posted the pic in another (shit)post on this board, for those that noticed. And no I'm not going to show her backside.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120989]

>>3120986
link http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNES-Super-Nintendo-Entertainment-System-White-Console-Works-Great-/291724404566

[Anonymous No.3120992]

>>3120981
I got one for like $5 at a flea market last month. It required minor fixing and it had only one controller, though.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120993]

>>3120987
Biggest advantage is that sega CD games can be burned to CD-R's and the CD drive is waaay less picky and unreliable with CD-R's than a PSX drive. No lockout mod needed, either.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3120995]

>>3120992
Sounds great, I got a busted Super Famicom for around $12 on ebay and it worked after I replaced the fuse. Good deals are out there... some people just seem to overpay a good deal.

[Anonymous No.3120996]

>>3120701
so I'd have to get the SNES to SCART, and then another SCART to display RGB?

[Anonymous No.3121002]

>>3120996
No, SCART is sub-optimal outside the EU. For some incredibly stupid reason no one makes a SNES -> BNC or SNES -> RCA RGB cable.

If you are comfortable making your own cable, do that, but if you need to ask I assume you can't and don't know how to use google.

[Anonymous No.3121006]

>>3121002
>>3120996
clarification: using only premade and overpriced cables, the way to do it is SNES -> SCART and SCART -> Something you can actually use on your monitor.

[Anonymous No.3121008]

>>3120987
get rid of the xrgb and use the money towards games

[Anonymous No.3121009]

>>3121002
>>3121006
I'd rather just go the SNES to S-Video route, I doubt the difference between that and RGB wouldn't be too noticeable

[Anonymous No.3121014]

>>3120996
If you're trying to hook up your snes to a pvm or any crt with BNC hookups you'll need a snes scart cable (I suggest euroscart) as well as a female scare to BNC breakout cable.

The scart cable itself you can get from retro_console_aaccessories on eBay, the bnc cables you can get from wookieewin also on ebay. Make sure everything you get is euroscart.

[Anonymous No.3121023]

>>3121008
I wonder how much I could get for it. Everything is in brand new condition still, plus I have the euroscart version of the adapter that's included that only accepts jp21. If there's any Torontobros here, I'll do $300 for everything.

[Anonymous No.3121025]

>>3121014
ahh thank you very much. I just started doing research on getting a CRT today and I was a little confused.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121029]

>>3121009
No, the difference is noticeable. The colors are less vivid in S-Video (On my 1chip, anyway). But it's nothing that bothers me significantly enough to stop me from using S-Video if it's the best I can do.

[Anonymous No.3121032]

>>3120996
>>3121014
I make my own ghetto connectors wiring from the console connector to a female DB9 connector. I put the necessary resistors/capacitors inside the the cover of the DB9 connector. I also wire 2 AV cables with RCA connectors (one with yellow, red, white connectors and another with red, blue, green connectors) to a male DB9 connector, finally I use RCA to BNC adaptors to connect to the PVM.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121036]

>>3121014
Or the alternative if you're confident is to drill some RCA jacks and wire in a few capacitors and get RCA -> BNC adapters. But clearly I am one of the few here who find this a promising option.

[Anonymous No.3121037]

>>3121025
Im pretty sure the only crts that use those BNC hookups are sony pvms and equivalents tho consumer sets might have svideo if you're lucky.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121042]

>>3121032
Why not put the capacitors in the console itself?

[Anonymous No.3121043]

>>3120968
Would reflowing the solder joint fix it?

What does a bad internal PCB layout look like and how does it cause this noise?

[Anonymous No.3121048]

>>3121042
I considered that but since I got a connector with all the pins I could leave the console itself unmodified.
I did put a small circuit board inside the dreamcast for the VGA mod because I couldn't find an AV cable with all the pins.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121051]

>>3121037
>only sony PVMs

Not the only one this thread who's said it, even. Sony is not the only company to make professional monitors that accept RGB through BNC connectors. Sony is not the only option.

A lot of the (consumer) US is stuck with s-video though. Not that it's impossible to get a pro CRT, or anything. Non-sony ones seem to be a bit more affordable anyway most of the time.

Also there are RGB to YPbPr converters out there. Not looked too much into them, but they're apparently usually pretty good. They seem to be mainly meant for using european prosumer equipment on US televisions, so it is the one truly and undebatably valid reason to get a SNES SCART cable here that I can think of.

[Anonymous No.3121056]

>>3121051
Thats why I said "or equivalents" ...
I'm Well aware of high quality NEC and Panasonic crts

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121057]

>>3121043
You know how the toploading NES and original famicom have jailbar interference? Like that, maybe. Thin traces or ones that pass too close to things in the video frequency band could cause such interference. It is possible but unlikely by comparison that reflowing some joints would fix stuff. Also, if you are not afraid to open it up, I'd check the capacitors along the luma trace coming from the S-video connector and making sure they are all in good shape by replacing them. This will be in a low voltage area of the TV, probably.

[Anonymous No.3121058]

>>3121051

Damn for a white guy you're pretty fucking ghetto

>>3120171
Anyone? I remember seeing somewhere that the positioning in the room could effect something like corner convergence?

[Anonymous No.3121070]

>>3121029
S-video has a quite low chroma resolution, so that's probably why the colors are subdued.

[Anonymous No.3121081]

>>3121029
Can someone explain the typewriter in chrono trigger thing, I don't get it it's not first time I've seen it

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121092]

>>3121058
My S-video cable from monoprice is taking it's sweet time to get here.

My workbench was in the way of the futon my aunt and uncle who are visiting are sleeping on, so I'm on the floor for a week or two.

Turns out modding a genesis without owning the video cable for one requires some improvisation.

And I freely admit to being messy. But I know where basically everything is, even like this.

>>3121070
Actually, I looked into it and at 240p S-Video technically has a high enough chroma sampling rate to supply video exactly equivalent to RGB. In real life, however, the S-Video encoder Nintendo decided to use was not up to snuff.

The CXA1145 (in the Genesis) actually seems to produce REALLY nice s-video. I'm pretty astonished because its composite is such absolute garbage.

>>3117168 is S-video.
So is this pic, but it's further away so I can show off how disorganized I am. And yes, it's usually kind of like this. Just more loose parts on the ground than I usually like because I'm doing a mod on the floor. I'll run over it all with a vacuum when I'm done.

>>3121081
I made this as a response to someone else who showed a picture of it and was claiming some stupid shit I forget now. It was either that 'programmers didn't develop with s-video in mind' or that S-Video was complete shit and nothing other than RGB was even worth shit, or something dumb like that. I honestly forget the details myself. But I keep recycling that comparison photo.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121093]

>>3121092
>writes all of that shit
>takes photo and prepares it for upload
>forgets to upload pic

Wince in OCD fury, /vr/. Or suprise me and accept it without laughing at my expense for the next few hour, or suprise me even more and ask me about what a thing in the picture is for or what it is.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121118]

Closer pic. This is adifficult screen to take pictures of with this camera and a shadow mask. They're awesome in person but you get a bunch of moire on the camera unless you have the patience to take one that finally looks just right.

[Anonymous No.3121137]

>>3121118
I've seen the term shadow mask used often, what does it mean?

[Anonymous No.3121193]

>>3119089
Ah. I got a flashcart just to play Shantae.

I've been meaning to play it in my GB Player since the sound is a bit whack on my GBC, but I need to chip or otherwise make region free (best would probably be to run the homebrew GB Player software my PAL GC since I bought my GB Player from japan.

[Anonymous No.3121201]

>>3120381
Monoprice Wii S-video cables tend to be pretty good.

[Anonymous No.3121247]

>>3117189
I need to get a Mega Drive some day to play this game. Also it's the only Sega Hard Girl I don't own

[Anonymous No.3121307]

>>3121247
Monster World IV is really awesome, totally worth it.
Do it for her

[Free 20L5 guy No.3121380]

>>3121137
It's a way of separating the three electron guns in a color CRT so that the red gun doesn't illuminate anything but the red phosphors on the tube. If there were no mask, each of the electron guns would hit all the phosphors in a region and render everything black and white as if it were on a true black and white CRT.

The Aperture Grille is what the sony monitors and a few others (Mitsubishi Diamondtron, for instance) used as an alternative method of separating the color guns, using vertical lines (copper wire coil) instead of a mesh (shadow mask).

The wikipedia page explains it pretty well. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_mask

[Anonymous No.3121408]

>>3120987
is that an ikea lil coffee table? careful with your 20" pvm and consoles. I had a 20" pvm on mine and i think i weakened the legs.

[Anonymous No.3121474]

So, the CRT I use has these arcing lines on the sides that are pretty noticeable when there's grey on the screen. Anyone know if it's fixable? I'm not very tech savvy when it comes to CRTs.
Best pic I could get right now. I'll draw on it in my next post so you see what I mean.

[Anonymous No.3121487]

>>3121474
Sorry for the shitty MS Paint job.
It's the same on the other side of the screen btw.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3121606]

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ele/5524971455.html
Now if only I had access to a small theater sized room.

>>3121193
If you have a copy of Smash Bros Melee (and access to a softmodded Wii) you could grab a cheap SDGecko off ebay and use HomeBros to load the needed software, preferably Game Boy Interface rather than the stock Boot Disc.

[Anonymous No.3121820]

www.subito.it/audio-video/monitor-crt-27-sony-kx-27-4-pezzi-roma-69624655.htm

Anybody know what this model actually is? It looks like it's a pre-PROFEEL KX-27PS1 but that's supposed to be silver and this one's black. Should I try to get it?

[Anonymous No.3121821]

>>3121820
There's also four of them, so if you really REALLY want it enough to pay one fortune and a half for shipping you can talk to me.

[Anonymous No.3121835]

>>3121820
>www.subito.it/audio-video/monitor-crt-27-sony-kx-27-4-pezzi-roma-69624655.htm


The corners have something on them, looks like its got some sort of travel case or something built around it

If it works well I'd grab it, mine looked really good until it started smoking.

[Anonymous No.3121852]

>>3094623
took me forever to finally find time to work on my setup

now i'm having sync issues and i can't identify the problem.
it's odd...
i have every thing going through that inline in3808 switch.
>inputs 1-5 RGBs
>input 6 dreamcast RGBs (from extron sync processor)
>input 7 component from ps2
>input 8 is from a individual composite/svideo switch
>output 1 is RGBs/YUV
>output 2 is composite/svideo

>input 1 nes - no sync
>input 2 snes is dead somehow, removed and awaiting bench
>input 3 n64 no RGB or sync (tested both rgb cables i have with multiout)
>input 4 sega/cd/32x- untested (lost power supplies)
>input 5 saturn - no sync
>input 6 dreamcast - WORKS FINE, see below
>input 7 ps2 YUV is fine, but no ext sync
>input 8 composite/svideo av switch - works fine

however, input 6, dreamcast, goes:
dreamcast vga (rgbhv) > extron sync processor (rgbs) > input 6
and it works fine, no sync issues... yet it's using the same RGBs output as the other systems.

i can't find the issue and it's driving me nuts.
i'm going to tear it all down tonight and start over, checking each system as i hook it up...

the struggle continues, friendos.

[Anonymous No.3121864]

>>3121852
also, i hate that i have to use the extra lil shelf thing under the bvm/switch.... i could move the nes, audio amp and audio switch elsewhere but it also hides the extron processor and the composite/svideo switch....

THE FUCKING STRUGGLE

[Anonymous No.3121960]

>>3121852
>inline in3808
Think those switchers only like csync/raw sync from the input side. Throw a sync stripper into one of the inputs and test it out

[Anonymous No.3122030]

>>3121474
>>3121487
are you using composite?

[Anonymous No.3122046]

>>3122030
Curious about this as well, I have similar wavy lines when grey is displayed on my PVM. Waiting for an S-Video cable for my Wii in the mail to see if it mitigates the issue.

[Anonymous No.3122096]

>>3122030
I'm using S-Video, but it's there no matter what I use.

[Anonymous No.3122147]

>>3121852
Are you the anon that bought that BVM from ebay, shipped from Providence, RI? How did it turn out?

[Anonymous No.3122165]

>>3121960
i already ordered 10 1881s, now the waiting game begins...
i assume i'll find some dumb mistake and everything will work before they show up (or rather, i hope)

>>3122147
i'm not the most recent one. in fact, i don't think i ever said where i got my d20, but yeah, i talked them down to 500 shipped. i was very specific with my shipping requirements which they were fine with. showed up fine, no issues.

no problems with the monitor (yet) either, i was worried with the 60k+ hours...

[Anonymous No.3122169]

>>3121852
>the struggle continues, friendos
Yup. My setup isn't nearly as complicated as yours and I know what you mean. I don't have nearly as many systems as you, so I'm not in as deep, I know I could put my stereo receiver on top of my PVM and get a ton of extra shelf space, but I just don't like how that looks. Plus, I slide the monitor forward to get at the connections in back every now and again, having more shit on top of it would get in the way. I've got a different, smaller stereo amplifier coming in this week, hopefully I can make it fit alongside the PlayStation on the top row. Trying to keep my setup all-Sony, just for chuckles. If I ever get a multi-format monitor, then I'm screwed because I'm gonna have to wedge my Dreamcast and Gamecube into this setup, too.

I've thought about replacing every console with smaller versions to save space, but I'm a sucker for the originals. As it stands, none of these are actually my childhood consoles. My SNES was an older model with blurry RGB, my N64 was a newer model that couldn't be easily RGB modded, and I didn't want to risk ruining my childhood NES by botching the RGB mod, which was basically only my second time ever using a soldering iron (N64 was my first). Fortunately, nothing went wrong, but now I regret not using my original system. Also, the Genesis is a 3/4 board model because my original had absolutely shit audio, and apparently some kind of audio/video interference that was within the system itself. It always used to give me feedback on bright screens.

[Anonymous No.3122186]

Running Sonic CD on my CRT right now and I've been trying to take a picture that does it justice, but after half an hour I have given up. Sorry chaps.

That reflective water background when you're near the bottom of the screen in Collision Chaos, god damn. God fucking damn.

[Anonymous No.3122191]

>>3122186
Do you have any capture hardware? I'd like to see it too, even if it doesn't come from a CRT.

[Anonymous No.3122202]

>>3122165
>i already ordered 10 1881s, now the waiting game begins...
>i assume i'll find some dumb mistake and everything will work before they show up (or rather, i hope)

I bet its a sync issue, it would be easy to test with the snes and the genesis (they do csync, think nesrgb does too)

Did you order the parts from china?

[Anonymous No.3122209]

This is a Toshiba 14AF45 FST Pure Flat CRT TV (according to Amazon) displaying the japanese version of SSF2.

Does it look good?
What the fuck does FST stands for?
What's a digital comb filter or an "invar shadow mask"?

If the picture looks like crap, blame the Galaxy S3

[Anonymous No.3122224]

>>3122209
>If the picture looks like crap, blame the Galaxy S3

more like blame composite.
although the S3 is complete shit for crt pics, I agree. I had one.

[Anonymous No.3122236]

>>3122209
it would look so much better with s-video
theres one on the back

[Anonymous No.3122286]

>>3122224
>>3122236
I know, but I don't have the cables for it (I almost didn't found the composite cables actually, fuck RF).
It looks decent enough from where I play though, althoughb I was expecting scanlines or something like that.

Do you know what FST and the other stuff means?

[Anonymous No.3122312]

>>3122286
FST stands for Flatter Squarer Tube in marketing speak.

Not sure what the point of using that acronym to describe a completely flat-faced FD Trinitron-alike was though...

[Anonymous No.3122326]

>>3122286
Invar is a type of low-expansion alloy used to improve the performance of shadow masks. More specifically to maintain alignment of the ekectron beams to the phosphor sites despite temperature variation.

A comb filter improves the quality of RF and Composite inputs by compensating for the degradation caused by multiplexing all the different data streams into one signal.

[Anonymous No.3122336]

>>3122202
snes is dead, haven't troubleshot it yet
lost my genesis/32x/cd power supplies in the last tear down/move/setup...
the nesrgb did have csync out, i wonder if it's true c-sync or just c-vid.. my nes is also affected, see pic

i found an NA supplier on ebay, 10 bucks with shipping for 10 of them, i'm fine overpaying to get them in 4 days instead of a week or two.

[Anonymous No.3122342]

>>3122336
nesrgb has a real csync AND c-vid.
what is connected depends on the modder however, dunno if it's you or someone else.

[Anonymous No.3122352]

>>3122342
right, it was a while since i did it. i would think i'd wire c-sync since i'd never have a use for composite video...


why can i remember the license plate of a car that cut me off two years ago but i can't remember what output i wired...
i remember the actual modding pretty vividly, except the final wiring up. the nes i used was super shitty and i had to manual rewire a bunch of traces around the PPU. i can't believe i didn't take any pictures.

[Anonymous No.3122354]

>>3122336
Yeah they are not that $$ anyway. If someone else did your nes mod see what they set it for. It's pretty obvious you just need the sync strippers though.

[Anonymous No.3122357]

>>3122352
many times nesrgb composite is used because it's built from rgb and is off better quality than stock nes composite
inb4 that guy

[Anonymous No.3122364]

Hm on my '90 tube BVM

you can see a slight vertical what almost looks like smudging sometimes on a light colored moving image
its more apparent closer to the edges

it almost looks like the screen is a little dirty on those spots but it isnt

is this a side affect of an old tube? or could it be the coating on the front of the glass is degrading?

[Anonymous No.3122373]

>>3122357
not only that but isn't the stock composite out disabled after the nesrgb install?

i'll let you guys know once the 1881s come in.

[Anonymous No.3122375]

>>3122373
yes it is, you get a grey image

[Anonymous No.3122481]

>>3122312
>>3122326
So... A 100% flat screen, an improved way to direct the beams to their space and a digital image quality compensator, respectively and basically?

Interesting, no wonder the TV uses 2 glasses for the screen.

Thanks anons

[Anonymous No.3122502]

>>3122481
Both those answers were from the same anon, me. I just split it into two posts because I'm kerayzee like that.

FST has been around since the 80s. It just signified an improvement in flatness over the full-on "goldfish bowl" tubes like your grandparents probably had. Not sure why they'd use that term on a flat CRT but whatever.

[Anonymous No.3122792]

>>3122364
could be the old tube, yeah. Post pics for a better answer, i suppose.

[Anonymous No.3123143]

[Anonymous No.3123165]

>>3116850
wow, that pic is insulting. Finally a reason to hide the CRT threads, I suppose.

[Anonymous No.3123187]

anyone has a groovylivearcade cd mirror ? it got wiped from google projects

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123224]

>>3122209
Cool amp. I want one like that, but Marantz or Yamaha-made.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123231]

>>3121852
That switch isn't too big for that room/table _at all_. It totally doesn't look out of place.

Glad you got it working, but I'd be hiding that switch somewhere behind the shelf.

Might also look better if you put it to the side of the monitor or above it.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123234]

>>3122375
Not if you do it yourself and populate the correct components for the switch. Then you can pull the original composite out.

Pre-modded? nope. Too much effort.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123237]

>>3122357
>that guy
You called?
Clearer but not correctly colored.

You can get the same clarity with more accurate colors with a Wii, retroarch, and nestopia than you can with a NESRGB sadly.

[Anonymous No.3123238]

>>3123165
google super gameboy
gb on the snes and guess what
it has scanlines

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123242]

>>3123238
That's not a GBC, though. The SGB is monochrome game boy only, unfortunately. I don't think the SNES even has the bandwidth to pump 8bpp color from a SNES. The monochrome GB is 2 bits per pixel, much easier on it.

[Anonymous No.3123245]

>>3123242
just saying it isnt so unholy as the anon thinks

[Anonymous No.3123253]

>>3123245
yes it is as unholy as I think it is, for the reasons >>3123242 mentioned. Not a single GBC game has CRT artifacts. Though they also messed up, as the GBC too, has only 2 bits per pixel

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123258]

>>3123242
>>3123245
Agreed, though for GBC games my solution is to just use a handheld. For Pokemon Red/Blue, besides hacks like this one on github, the best way to play with colors is on a SGB. https://github.com/dannye/pokered-gbc

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123261]

>>3123253
>GBC is 2 bits per pixel
True, but you're wrong anyway.
You misunderstand, the SGB works by piping raw video data into the SNES. The GBC is indeed 2BPP internally but the number of palettes available mean that the SNES has to be fed the actual RGB color from a theoretical SGB-GBC, as the SNES has no way of knowing what is a sprite and what is a background.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123263]

>>3123261
and all the available colors on the GBC can be fit in a 8 bit color index.

[Anonymous No.3123265]

>>3123261
>True, but you're wrong anyway.
That statement makes no sense.

>You misunderstand, the SGB works
I didn't give a shit how the SGB works, it doesn't support GBC games, and I can't be arsed to give that device even a hint of a thought beyond that.

>>3123263
>and all the available colors on the GBC can be fit in a 8 bit color index.
GBC has 15-bit color, and through HDMA can show a couple thousand of those at the same time. An 8-bit index is insufficient.

[Anonymous No.3123268]

>>3123253
but they have the same resolution

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123271]

>>3123265
>True, but you're wrong anyway.
>That statement makes no sense.
Actually, it makes sense. You are correct that the GBC is also 2bpp, but you lack understanding of how the SGB works to realize that despite the same bits per pixel being used, palettes add a layer of complexity that dramatically increases needed bandwidth for the solution in the SGB to work.

>You misunderstand, the SGB works
>I didn't give a shit how the SGB works, it doesn't support GBC games, and I can't be arsed to give that device even a hint of a thought beyond that.

That's your problem. You don't care how it works and you intend to sperg about it to a master of sperging about things.

[Anonymous No.3123272]

>>3123268
and I give a shit why? The game in OPs pic never ever looked like it does in OPs pic. It's about as "authentic" as using one of the oh-so.despised "filters", and even worse, it's crt-fetish material. At this point it's not about authenticity or accuracy but pure fetishisation of a technology, and fuck everything else.

[Anonymous No.3123274]

>>3123165
Would you prefer interlacing?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123275]

>>3123268
Resolution is nothing to do with it. Monochrome with four gray levels takes less space than color, unless there are only four or less colors on the screen.

[Anonymous No.3123276]

>>3123271
>You are correct that the GBC is also 2bpp
Good, because that was the only thing I talked about

>you lack understanding of how the SGB works
No, I don't care how it works, none of my statement was about how the SGB works. You're barking up the wrong tree.

>you intend to sperg about it to a master of sperging about things
projection much

[Anonymous No.3123279]

>>3121408
Bullshit, the LACK table is indestructible. I had a wet table with a miata engine on it in the basement for about 3 months.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123280]

>>3123276
He wanted to play a GBC game on a CRT. He didn't come into your house and kill your dog or something. There's no reason to get upset.

[Anonymous No.3123282]

>>3123274
I'd prefer a clearly visible LCD pattern, possibly with the refresh artifacts of the GBC. Or, you know, for this game to not be used in a fucking "CRT" thread, as it has nothing to do with it, not even remotely.

[Anonymous No.3123284]

>>3123280
>He wanted to play a GBC game on a CRT. He didn't come into your house and kill your dog or something
Same difference. They deserve a rusty pitchfork up their rectum for even attempting

[Anonymous No.3123286]

>>3123274
fun fact, GBA (original one at least) has some kind of interlacing going on, if you look carefuly

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123290]

>>3123284
Hey, I personally prefer to play most GBC games on handhelds, especially with the washed out screens of a GBC/GBA. But relax.

[Anonymous No.3123295]

>>3123286
It's not so much interlacing as it is the way the screen refreshes.
Also >not retro
GBC has the same artifacts

[Anonymous No.3123296]

>>3123272
yknow on a SDTV you either choose flickery interlaced or non head-ache inducing progressive right?

if the developers intended for a previous version of a system to display with scanlines and the new version has the SAME resolution (except for being in color) its not very much of a stretch to display the newer version in the same way

you are objectively wrong to accuse OP for 'pure fetishization'

it would be different if the anon had to downscale for example like a 720p nonretro game

[Anonymous No.3123298]

>>3123290
I will not rest until OP kills themselves out of shame for attempting this unholy alchemy

[Anonymous No.3123301]

>>3123298
prepare to die of sleep deprivation then

[Anonymous No.3123303]

>>3123296
The game never worked on a CRT. So the only reason to play it now on a CRT, or even worse, a pretend-CRT defies the often claimed reason of authenticity. At that point it's obsession with misguided CRT nostalgia, which is sick

[Anonymous No.3123305]

>>3123282
>144p is not to be played on an SDTV

come on anon
its more retro than it is on your upscaled pillar boxed tv

[Anonymous No.3123308]

>>3123301
Last I checked they took a bath with a toaster next to them. I think I can wait that half hour.

[Anonymous No.3123309]

>>3123303
its not meant to be played on a non-handheld display period
is this your argument?

[Anonymous No.3123310]

>>3123305
>your upscaled pillar boxed tv
That's the weirdest name anyone ever called my GBC

And it's still not "retro", as the game never worked on that output ever. It's a mishmash of nostalgia with complete disregard for underlying hardware

[Anonymous No.3123313]

>>3123310
you sperg out in a crt thread where the game is displayed at its proper non-upscaled resolution, but ive never heard anyone complaining about it being played on a modern lcd

admit your bias

[Anonymous No.3123314]

>>3123309
partially. At the very least, when putting some work into applying filters, the filters should try to replicate the original display, instead of replicating a different display. Playing non-CRT games on an actual CRT is just plain weird, and as much as I wish for OP's quick and painful demise, I doubt they are that depraved to attempt that.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3123318]

>>3123258
>the best way to play with colors is on a SGB.
SGB2 or modded SGB if you want to be maximum anal.

>>3123310
>as the game never worked on that output ever
Nothing stopping from someone from playing a GBC game on their Gameboy Player, which is now capable of outputting in 240p/144p.

[Anonymous No.3123319]

>>3123313
>bias
I don't care about CRTs and their cult following, if they leave me alone. Doing that, to that game, is not leaving me alone though. So I'll just call you all poopy heads

>ive never heard anyone complaining about it being played on a modern lcd
funny enough, that's your own bias. You won't see people complaining about the output device outside of CRT threads, which are obsessed with it. And in CRT threads they won't even try to play it on one of these bastard paper-thin pieces of devil technology, so it never pops up

[Anonymous No.3123320]

>>3123314
>modern day lcds are similar to the gbc screen

CRTs are more authentically retro than running the games at a resolution more than 7 times the original
not to mention the predecessor was meant to play on a CRT

[Anonymous No.3123323]

>>3123319
maybe because the people in CRT threads dont own expensive upscalers

[Anonymous No.3123325]

>>3123320
>modern day lcds are similar to the gbc screen
Ah, we're in straw man territory now. Why don't you just look into an electron gun for me, will ya?

[Anonymous No.3123327]

>>3123318
>Gameboy Player
Shit, forgot this piece of evil existed. There goes that point then

[Anonymous No.3123329]

another thing anon

do you believe that LCD's were common when this came out?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_Boy_Player

they werent
so that add-on intended for people to play gbc and gba on a CRT

[Anonymous No.3123330]

>>3123329
>>3123327
You're lagging about as much as higan on a Pentium

[Anonymous No.3123335]

>>3123325
neither are authentic but CRT is the lesser of 2 evils

face it some people dont like tiny screens anon

[Anonymous No.3123339]

>>3123335
>CRT is the lesser of 2 evils
Only on this thread. Told you, you fuckers are mental

>some people dont like tiny screens
They probably shouldn't be playing handheld games then

[Anonymous No.3123341]

(ツ)

[Anonymous No.3123367]

>>3123341
looks more like a camera filming the screen

[Anonymous No.3123378]

>>3123341
This gives me ideas for my next project. Hint:

>Non-functioning Game Boy
>Raspberry Pi
>A sheet of olive green filter gel
>One of the BNIB 6"-8" monochrome CRT monitors we have clogging up the store room at work

Have I finally lost the plot?

[Anonymous No.3123394]

mfw all i want is a 19-21" crt pc monitor
mfw theyre less common than bvm/pvms
mfw if i find one it will be damaged in shipping most likely

[Anonymous No.3123397]

>>3123378
How is a 6 inch crt going to fit in a gb?

[Anonymous No.3123409]

>>3123367
they use special demo unit gb

[Anonymous No.3123419]

>>3123397
I was going to interface the GB's d-pad and buttons to the GPIO port on the RPi.

Y'know, as an authentic controller 'n shit...

[Free 20L5 guy No.3123498]

>>3123318
Yeah, as I've said in the past, my SGB has an oscillator taken from a (dead) GB pocket running it's CPU clock.

[Anonymous No.3123632]

>>3120385

is this the super gameboy?

[Anonymous No.3123668]

Think I have a chance to snag a pvm-20L5 but if I did I would have to get rid of my bvm-20g1u. Being able to display 480p is very attractive to me, but I like the idea of having a bvm. Should I just hold out for a bvm A series. They pop up on eBay and are surprisingly decent priced compared to pvm's

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3123825]

>>3123632
Neither the Super Gameboy nor Super Gameboy 2 support Gameboy Color games. That as well as >>3120865 are both from the Gameboy Player using Game Boy Interface Low Latency in place of the boot disc.

>>3123668
The A-Series BVMs seem to have some weird incompatibilities/issues with game systems from what I've read, so you might want to just aim for the L5.

[Anonymous No.3123895]

>>3120987
That Roll statue looks great!
Where did you find it?

[Anonymous No.3123897]

>>3123668
The BKM68x that the A-series requires to take any analog video signal is quite rare and sought after by idiots who bought A series BVMs for retro vidya without realizing they don't support RGB. Unless you have a guaranteed source for one, stick with the D series and prior

[Anonymous No.3123915]

>>3122209
I had that same type of TV before I got my PVM. (Gave it to my friend who is currently enjoying it.) It was a really nice television that gave me no trouble. S-video looks great on it, as does component.

[Anonymous No.3123987]

>>3123143
>hissss hisssss
>this is snek

[Anonymous No.3124240]

>>3116850
who is she? she has a nice body

[Anonymous No.3124247]

>PSO thread inspires wife to remember paying PSO with me before the baby and want to play upstairs
>Offline multiplayer GameCube version check
>Backward compatible Wii check
>Sweet, time to see this thing in full on native 480p on the 60" plasma
>mfw
M...muh scanlines :(

[Anonymous No.3124256]

>>3124247
>480p
>scanlines
you would need a 2000 TVL CRT for this

[Anonymous No.3124262]

>>3124256
Or a decent VGA monitor I think. I'd just be doing 480i to my CRT projector though. Unfortunately we don't just hang out in my basement together anymore since kiddo isn't allowed down there. Oh well. I'm playing a little bit to check all the controllers and etc. I'm adjusting to it.

[Anonymous No.3124268]

>>3123825
>>3123897
Noted. I offered $450 but he countered with $500. There wouldn't be any shipping for this, thoughts?

I can't find any prices for what a bvm-20g1u would be. What could I sell mine that's in really fantastic condition for?

[Anonymous No.3124272]

>>3124247
There are still some online servers that might be up, you should look into it. I'm picking up PSO soon too!

[Anonymous No.3124306]

>>3124268
How fantastic? I paid under $100* shipped for mine and it's got 4k hours on it.

*GBP equivalent as I'm a bonglander

[Anonymous No.3124309]

>>3124272
For the GameCube version? I played blue burst last online but to play couch co op the GC version is simplest.

[Anonymous No.3124317]

>>3124309
Yea for PC, DC, and GCN. Not sure for Xbox.

[Anonymous No.3124319]

>>3124262
Yeah I get (small) scanlines putting 480p through my IBM P260 which is a 21" 1600x1200 recommended CRT.

The thing pretty much cuts my eyeballs at 240p...not nice at all.

[Anonymous No.3124338]

>>3124317
Do you like do some kind of port forwarding on a networked pc or what?

I got the plaz to automatically switch to 4:3 for 480p looks much better I think I can even tolerate the medium gray colored ladderbars for it even though they kill my soul.

[Anonymous No.3124347]

>>3124319
I've got a couplei "cute" 13" trons up here but she isn't gonna play split screen on that, no matter how laughably short these Gamecube controller cords are. Pic related for size comparison. I guess I better go to my places and try to pick up one or two Gamecube extension cables.

[Anonymous No.3124350]

>>3124306
But how much did you pay for the monitorrrr

[Anonymous No.3124352]

>>3124350
What I said, the shipping was actually free believe it or not.

[Anonymous No.3124359]

>>3123378
Why not just make a real game boy Pi project?

https://youtu.be/aMhTMgDHGaM

[Anonymous No.3124380]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/222074463715?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Anyone have any idea if this could be fixed?

[Anonymous No.3124403]

>>3124359
Because no /crt/ senpai.

Seriously though, that shit is played out. I was looking to do something a little more left field.

[Anonymous No.3124408]

>>3124403
Ha! I finally found out what the senpai word filter replaces... f a m

[Anonymous No.3124414]

>>3124380
It could on a BVM.

Presumably a PVM has the appropriate adjustment as it's likely someone fiddled with it to get it in that state in the first place.

[Anonymous No.3124427]

>>3124380
If it's that dusty on the outside can you even imagine how fucked it is on the inside? Wolf lungs m8.

Waaaaaay overpriced too. I'd avoid tbqph.

[Anonymous No.3124471]

Hey /CRT/, I just started getting into retro video games and I noticed my little flat screen has serious input lag on some older systems (newest being my GC and Xbox). My friend told me that the best way to play older systems is with a CRT but I have NO idea what I'm getting into. Will any old CRT tele do the trick or should I be looking for something specific?

[Anonymous No.3124481]

>>3124471
If you're buying you want something with as many different inputs (scart if Euro, component, svideo and composite) as possible in the size you want at the price you want to pay. Sony's have "squarer" looking pixels because of the way they're made.

[Anonymous No.3124484]

>>3124471
Oh also - you can get your GCN and Xbox to output progressive scan signals if you want to use your HDTV. I was just doing it earlier itt to play pso

[Anonymous No.3124486]

>>3124484
Thanks for the advice, are there any brands or models I should avoid?

[Anonymous No.3124510]

>>3124486
If you're just bargain shopping basically grab something that's free/$2 immediately and then just upgrade it when something that seems better pops up. The newer the better as far an inputs go with one caveat that 2000s "flat screen" ones are bigger and heavier than their curved screen counterparts and have more distortion in the corners. If you're planning to actually part with more than $10 for your first one just go for a Trinitron to be safe since you stay having a wide selection around the $20 point.

[Anonymous No.3124513]

>>3124510
Thanks again man, there's a HUGE thrift shop in my area with tons of TVs but I have this fear of getting something shit every time I buy things so I wasn't sure.

[Anonymous No.3124539]

>>3124471
Look for sony CRT TVs at the size you want. Check the model number here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA
Make sure it ISN'T one of the "high scan" or "super fine pitch" ones.

Try to find one with component and s-video inputs.

[Anonymous No.3124631]

>>3124510
Just got home with my new to me Samsung sd set. Hook everything up and the colors seem off and the image is bowed on the bottom really noticeably, bummer Any fix or should I give it away. It was only $10

[Anonymous No.3124635]

>>3124631

[Anonymous No.3124647]

Today I noticed that my Genesis has worse composite output than my SNES.

Which consoles have good RF?
Which consoles have bad RF?
Which consoles have good composite?
Which consoles have bad composite?
Which consoles have good S-video?
Which consoles have bad S-video?
Which consoles have good RGB?
Which consoles have bad RGB?
Which consoles have good component?
Which consoles have bad component?

Does the quality of composite display depend more on the encoder in the console or the decoder in the CRT or the quality of the cable?

[Anonymous No.3124650]

>>3124647
In the genesis it's kind of a wanted effect to blend in that dithering effect.

[Anonymous No.3124654]

>>3124631
Could probably be fixed in the service menu if you figure out how to get into it.

Just make sure to take note of the original value of anything you change, and avoid changing things you don't know what they are.

[Anonymous No.3124685]

>>3124654
I don't know what anything is senpai.

goggled it and got into the service menu pretty sure deflection is what I need right? it has some built in test patterns too. camera is shit but the waviness on the right of the screen is real. also didn't know they were still making new sd sets in 2006, that's when I bought my first 1080p lcd

[Anonymous No.3124709]

>>3124685
I suppose, I don't know this particular model. Usually you can change it without permanently saving it (and even if it did you did write the value down, right?) so go and change what seems relevant in small increments and see what it does. But you basically want to find the equivalent of "pincushion" on old PC CRT monitors.

You should probably be able to do something about the colors as well in the service menu. Look for stuff that pertain to Red/Green/Blue.

Somebody else in the thread can probably give better advice, but this is how I've fiddled with one of my PVMs anyway.

[Anonymous No.3124723]

>>3124685
Oh, yeah. Also a pattern like this helps when trying to fix geometry.
You can generate it with the 240p test suite, or some games actually come with it in the options menu (Makeruna Makendo for SFC/SNES being one)

[Anonymous No.3124737]

>>3124319
Unrelated but anon is 21" overrated?
I found a 17 inch with 86Khz Horizontal sync for a good price online
Do you consider 17" too small?

and another thing is it sharper than a BVM at 240p?

[Anonymous No.3124740]

>>3124380
avoid

[Anonymous No.3124805]

>>3124737
Totally depends on your environment tbqph. I actually find 20-22" a little too big for close-up playing such as sat at a desk but I persevere.

When I was growing up 21" was the average size for a living room set and if a kid had their own tv in their bedroom it was almost always a 14" so that's my personal frame of reference.

86khz h-sync will give 1600x1200 right? That sounds like a quality 17" tube to me so I'd pick it up if everthing else is hunky dory and it's reasonably priced.

[Anonymous No.3124809]

All set up. Really pleased with the image on the pvm considering the small screen.

[Anonymous No.3124820]

>>3124809
tbqh for that big space I'd pick up a big cheap sony wega

[Anonymous No.3124824]

>>3124635
Is that just composite? Because it looks pretty good.

[Anonymous No.3124827]

>>3124380
Those lines at the top are normal.

[Anonymous No.3124830]

I bought this more because our friends had one when we used to go camping with them.

It'll probably end up as more of a display piece on my shelf than for actual use, but I may end up using it on occasion.

[Anonymous No.3124834]

>>3124827
Well yeah but obviously they shouldn't be visible. It needs a good going over in the geometry department.

That said the overall condition is appalling and it's overpriced taking this into consideration. The previous owner was clearly a drooling retard so who knows what horrors lurk...

[Anonymous No.3124845]

>>3124830
How long does that thing take to nuke a Kraft Mac 'n Cheese?

[Anonymous No.3125003]

>>3117274
triggered

[Anonymous No.3125048]

>>3124647
From what I have heard:
The PC Engine has good RF.
The SNES and PS1 have good composite.
The Genesis and NeoGeo have bad composite.
The PS2 has bad component (still better than S-video of course).


I don't know what causes composite quality to be good or bad.

[Anonymous No.3125072]

>>3117242
http://www.geek.com/games/john-carmack-coded-quake-on-a-28-inch-169-1080p-monitor-in-1995-1422971/

shieeet

[Anonymous No.3125083]

PVM spotted!

[Anonymous No.3125086]

>>3125083
shit when did Diamond is Unbreakable start?

Whens the release schedule? I'm so out of the loop it feels like ages since Stardust was airing.

[Anonymous No.3125096]

>>3125086
it comes out every friday

started 2 weeks ago

[Anonymous No.3125116]

>>3125083
I don't see any knobs, hardly professional at all.

[Anonymous No.3125129]

>>3125116
older pvm/profeel like the 2030/2530/2930 don't have knobs.

[Anonymous No.3125139]

>>3125048
RetroRGB writes a lot of bollocks.ù

>I don't know what causes composite quality to be good or bad.

Color fidelity (inside NTSC limitations), dealing with interference and channel crosstalk/colorburst. In which the Genesis is absolutely fine to me (first models might get some trouble with NTSC), it gets a bad rep because people mistake intentional filtering choices which do produce some side effects (mainly squarey artifacts around strong channel fights), things got better with the PS1/Saturn I think (even though both use the same filtering choices to minimize dithering at 320+ horizontal dotclock) and I can't express myself about the Neo Geo. SNES holds up really well using some clever interpolation (also featured in the NES) and many games don't even look as good on RGB compared to the NTSC shots. PC Engine has good color but needs more balancing and saturation.

PS2 doesn't have bad component and in a sense it could be even sharper than RGBs (since composite as sync muffles things a bit) but I don't know if the strong checkerboard noise is due to the PS2 rendering itself or bad cables, as I don't have any official ones to test.

[Anonymous No.3125163]

>>3124709
i dinked with a few things shut it off and it saved the settings, wrote everything down so its okay
>>3124723
I have a gradius? rom with that on it. i'll hook up the wii.

>>3124824
s-video, I think my Sanyo 20" is a little sharper, it has a little warp to the picture too but slightly the other way.

[Anonymous No.3125191]

Anyone else watch old anime on their monitors?

[Anonymous No.3125198]

>>3125191
I have some VHS tapes, mainly

>Macross Plus
>Trigun
>Vampire Hunter D + Bloodlust
>Ninja Scroll

And some other kinda no-namey animes.

But yeah, I like watching movies/anime on an objectively terrible format on my old TV's.

[Anonymous No.3125352]

>>3123165

[Anonymous No.3125370]

>>3125191
I used to watch a lot on my big NEC monitor. But then I noticed that the picture gets darker whenever bright subtitles are on the screen. Must not be handling voltages well. I watched some on my PVM before, but it's such a pain to get it working my with PC.

[Anonymous No.3125395]

http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Sony-Trinitron-Color-Video-Monitor-BVM-1911-28921277.html
Thought you guys might be interested in this. 30 minutes left, sorry

[Anonymous No.3125396]

>>3125198
>>3125370
you guys have to try laserdisc rips

[Anonymous No.3125403]

>>3124805
Thanks anon

I think I will go with the 17"

[Anonymous No.3125408]

>>3125395
Btw guys this has full convergence and geometry adjustments via the drawers.
These models are extremely convenient.

[Anonymous No.3125409]

>>3125396
Finding a working laserdisc player in my city is gonna be ridiculous

Although I have heard there was some cool anime on the laserdisc.

[Anonymous No.3125414]

>>3125395
Someone please get this so I'm not tempted to.

[Anonymous No.3125416]

>>3125414
Check the shipping though. It weighs 40 pounds

[Anonymous No.3125420]

>>3125409
I'm playing LaserDisc rips on my wii.

the nostalgia of good composite feels wonderful, and the sound quality is great.

[Anonymous No.3125484]

>>3125395
>$127
So which one of you got it?

[Anonymous No.3125497]

Hey guys I found a projector with 15KHz to 92KHz horizontal sync

is that legit or are they scaling the 15khz up to 30 internally?

[Anonymous No.3125534]

>>3125484
I'd like to see it in action once the anon receives it

[Anonymous No.3125656]

Getting a Sony Wega KD 34XS955-C soon. Hope it's a good TV.

[Anonymous No.3125670]

>>3125656
Its HD

[Anonymous No.3125725]

So, can anyone else help with my problem?
>>3121474
>>3121487

[Anonymous No.3125913]

>>3124809

This is such a sweet TV. Could you or someone tell me the model number?

[Anonymous No.3125938]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-2090-0092-Sony-CHM-9001-00-10-Color-Trinitron-CRT-16500C-54750A-83480A/231410630739?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3De8c9635690ec4b9b948e5d5123838470%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D182065983571

i wonder if this could be rigged up somehow
that little 5 hole connector would be RGBHV right?

[Anonymous No.3125969]

>>3125048
composite quality mostly depends on encoder and implementation of it.
Genesis with CXA1645 have better composite
PS1 uses CXA1645 and feeds it a triangle wave (the best signal possible)
32x uses a custom encoder that propably gives the best composite of all consoles.
nes/snes/pce use phase switch or something like that, that gives better image on fix screens but looks bad in motion (try nes blaster master on foot).

But at the end of the day, composite is still composite, you can only go so far with all signals stuffed into one cable.

[Anonymous No.3126031]

>>3125191
I have some VHS's. I need to get a LaserDisc Player. Perhaps next payday... I actually went ahead and bought my first LD already.

I guess I should try to play some with my PS3 and PS3 media server, but the PS3's RGB quality is kinda shit.

[Anonymous No.3126039]

>>3126031
some of these laserdisc rips seem to be kind of noisy
i think authentic ones will look better

[Anonymous No.3126056]

>>3126039
They do. Well I haven't been watching any rips on a PVM though, so I'm comparing LD rips on flat screen versus actual LD on PVM, might be a bit unfair.

[Anonymous No.3126315]

>>3125191
>LoGH
Mah Nigga!

I have a Pioneer CLD-79 and a bit of anime on LaserDisc.

[Anonymous No.3126354]

Apologies for the terrible pic but I need some advice please.

I'm outputting 320x240@120hz over hd15 from my win7 thinkpad into this monitor but I get this strange bowing at the top of the screen - you should be able to see it here. Thing is I don't get it with any other resolutions so I don't think it's a geometry issue. I do have WinDAS hooked up so could delve deeper but would rather not fiddle if it's not going to do any good.

Could it be down to my vga cable by any chance? I thought they were generally only limited at higher resolutions.

[Anonymous No.3126358]

>>3126354
Slightly better pic of the problem area (top right)

[Anonymous No.3126426]

>>3125913
It appears to be a Sony PVM 8042Q or similar. 8-inch PVMs are great.

[Anonymous No.3126430]

>>3126354
Might need some degauss.

[Anonymous No.3126431]

Anyone here has done convergence/landing adjustments by moving the deflection yoke?
Do you have to move the yoke while the CRT is still on or do you have to turn off the set, move the yoke a little, turn on, check, turn off, move the yoke, check, etc?

[Anonymous No.3126447]

>>3126426

Thanks anon, appreciate the help.

[Anonymous No.3126471]

>>3124647
1Chip SNES is a little sharper than older SNES, this applies to all it's video outputs.

>>3125969
>a triangle wave (the best signal possible)
This is wrong. The best subcarrier waveform for any video encoder is a perfect sine above 0.2Vpp of the minimum amplitude that is defined in the datasheet.
This reduces amount of upper sidebands in the chroma signal to nothing (as a perfect sine doesn't contain upper sidebands), some Y/C separation circuits have serious trouble with upper sidebands as they remove the chroma signal from composite by remodulating it as a sine and subtracting that from the composite signal, which will look horrible (like a unshielded S-Video cable) if it contains upper sidebands.

The older SNES feeds it's video encoder two sinewaves (one is phaseshifted as the encoder is very primitive and needs that), the filter that produces these waves is the only circuit in the SNES that uses a inductor (L1, there's no L2 or or higher).

I have my own filter circuit (the lower one that produces a sine) that I used for CXA1645 workalikes like the CXA2075 and KA2198BD, before that I used a simple RC lowpass (the upper one that produces a triangle) and got bad looking signals on anything that digitizes video signals (USB video grabber, modern TVs and little 320x240 TFT screen). On old CRT TVs with proper filter circuits it didn't made a difference.

>>3126431
>Do you have to move the yoke while the CRT is still on
Yes, wear rubber gloves while doing that. Also not all yokes can be moved, the ones on my consumer 90s Trinitrons can't.
>or do you have to turn off the set, move the yoke a little, turn on, check, turn off, move the yoke, check, etc?
This is the most stupid way which could also harm the set.

[Anonymous No.3126539]

>>3126471
>This is the most stupid way which could also harm the set.

how would that harm the set?

[Anonymous No.3126585]

>>3121137
Sony had the patent on the good tech...

[Anonymous No.3126591]

>>3125725
could be old tubes desu...or maybe polarity? turn the entire unit around maybe itll stop I have a similar issue. except it is just one single arc...

[Anonymous No.3126660]

>>3125969
>nes/snes/pce use phase switch or something like that, that gives better image on fix screens but looks bad in motion (try nes blaster master on foot).

What does it look like? Is it like the ghosting of LCD monitors?

Which has better motion quality for games?

Emulator, RGB in VAG cable connected to cheap LCD monitor.

Or

Original hardware, composite connected to CRT TV.

[Anonymous No.3126706]

>>3126660
>What does it look like? Is it like the ghosting of LCD monitors?
like pic related but faster of course
In motion it looks horrible, even more if scrolling speed isn't synced to it. As I said, try blaster master, tank speed is synced to phase, but on foot it's slightly slower and artifacts pop up everywhere.

>Which has better motion quality for games?
cheap lcd are horrible for motion.
and outside of nes, many console have stock/easy mods for getting at least svideo.

[Anonymous No.3126724]

I have a dumb question for you guys. I picked up a generic s-video cable for my n64, it works great. But when I try to use in on my snes (ntsc-u), it gives a slightly noisy image, bad enough that composite looks better.

Are there any caveats to s-video for snes, maybe something I need to do first? or do I just have a bad/dirty connection?

[Anonymous No.3126735]

>>3126724
composite routed on Y line and/or poorly shielded Y/C lines.
bad cables are easier to detect on 2d graphics.

[Anonymous No.3126813]

>>3126735
>composite routed on Y line

Looks like this is it actually, well that's embarrassing since I've been satisfied using this cable for a while now. This likely explains the checkerboarding my capture card picks up.

[Anonymous No.3126846]

>>3126706
>In motion it looks horrible, even more if scrolling speed isn't synced to it. As I said, try blaster master, tank speed is synced to phase, but on foot it's slightly slower and artifacts pop up everywhere.

Sorry for my ignorance but what does phase mean in this context?

[Anonymous No.3126868]

>>3126846
well the correct term is "color burst offset", but phase alternate stuck with me...

You see the dot movings in >>3126706 ? The clever guys at Sunsoft synced those movements with Blaster Master tank moving speed, to hide those artifacts as much as possible. However in that game you can get on foot, and in that situation you walk slower (thus desynced) , so ugly artifacts appear everywhere.

[Anonymous No.3126920]

>>3126430
Thanks for the reply but I doubt (any more) degaussing would help tbqh.

I've run between 640x480@160hz and 2048x1536@75hz from the same source into the same monitor with no such distortion so surely it's not a physical problem with the tube?

To be fair I don't particularly like 240p on this as it's way too sharp for my tastes but it still bugs me. I'd just like to know what might be causing it.

[Anonymous No.3126946]

>>3126920
anon you're supposed to run it at a really high horizontal res
like 3840x240

read this thread
>>/vr/thread/1584547

http://filthypants.blogspot.com/2014/03/tvs-and-retro-gaming-emulation.html
read the comments here

[Anonymous No.3126980]

>>3126920
>@160hz
>@75hz
This will fuck up motion quality. You can get away with 120Hz because you can use BFI to bring the effective refresh rate back down to 60Hz (at the cost of reduced brightness). You need exactly one displayed frame for every emulated frame or you will get motion trail artifacts.

[Anonymous No.3127006]

How great are these anti-anti-aliasing patches?

[Anonymous No.3127053]

>>3126946
>>3126980
Okay.

I shall play along in the hope that validating your accepted dogma may tease a relevant response.

Here we see 3840x480@120hz. Please note no bowing to the sides of the image toward the top.

[Anonymous No.3127059]

>>3127053
Now here we have 3840x240@120hz. This time there is bowing though much less noticeable than at 320x240 presumably due to the anamorphically compressed nature of this higher horizontal resolution.

Can anyone tell me why a 240 line image would have this when all other vertical resolutions do not? No other parameters have changed in this comparison.

[Anonymous No.3127140]

>>3127059
I'm not sure why anon
My BVM has a switch called AFC for these types of situations

>>/vr/thread/1584547#p1584697
i suggest following this anon's suggestion if you want a working image

[Anonymous No.3127241]

>>3127140
Interesting you should mention AFC. I have an Extron RGB 580xi which has similar, if not identical, sync processing capabilities.

Unfortunately inserting it into this particular signal chain to confirm would require a BNC to HD15 patch lead which I do not currently possess.

Thanks for the help anyhow. I'll give 240p-line-doubled-then-halved-via-simulated-scanlines a try. Alternatively I could stop wasting my valuable time flogging this particular dead horse and just run 240p content through one of my BVM-20G1s...

[Anonymous No.3127714]

>>3122209
Toshiba Guy here, now I've found another CRT on my house, and it's much bigger than the previous one (14 inches vs 29 inches).

This is an LG CP-29Q12P on a MC-996A chassis with no available information online besides being an CRT TV displaying an emulated F-Zero via Retroarch Wii on 240p, unlike the previous which was running on a real SNES.

The emulation looks way better than the real SNES even in composite, but that's because I'm using the original Wii cables as opposed to the generic SNES ones I got.

[Anonymous No.3127720]

>>3127714
That tube seems to have geometry issues.

[Anonymous No.3127735]

>>3127720
Oh, I know, I just founded it, so I didn't change anything yet.

Problem is, I don't know how to change it, and there's no information about a secret menu of sorts to deal with it, besides an option for Degauss or something.

[Anonymous No.3127957]

What's the cheapest way of hooking my dreamcast to my BVM?

I have a BVM 2010 but I cant find in the manual if it supports S-video over 2 BNC

Dreamcast scart cables would cost 40 bucks

[Anonymous No.3128190]

>>3126591
What do you mean by "around"? Upside down? I ain't got no clue.

[Anonymous No.3128197]

This thread should have like an IRC or something.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3128213]

>>3128190
Rotate it, change the direction it is facing. Alternatively/also, move it to another part of the room.

I doubt any of these will do anything to change matters; It looks like a moire pattern from the shadowmask, and a flat grey screen just makes it visible/more visible to the naked eye.

Still worth a shot.

>>3128197
mite b cool

[Anonymous No.3128234]

>>3128197

IRCs traditionally fuck up generals beyond all reckoning

[Anonymous No.3128293]

Thoughts?

This kind of scared me when I looked at it after getting shocked by this bastard.

It looks more like gunk than rust from close up.

[Anonymous No.3128301]

>>3128293
Probably left over flux from the soldering

You can wipe it off with IPA if it bothers you that much but it won't do any harm to leave it

[Anonymous No.3128306]

>>3128301
so you think this monitor has been repaired before?

[Anonymous No.3128307]

>>3128293
Flux residue. It can theoretically cause corrosion but in practice it usually doesn't.

[Anonymous No.3128324]

>>3128306
If the components affected are electrolytics I'd bet my life on it

Hardly a bad thing though as those things are notorious for going tits up

[Anonymous No.3128334]

>>3128324
I noticed theres some dark almost smoke-ish tints inside the case
i think this monitor may have like burnt out sometime and was repaired

what worries me is this monitor gets like twice as hot as my PVM
i rigged up something with some pc fans that works a little bit

im kind of worried the same thing that happened to it in the past will happen again

[Anonymous No.3129106]

Anyone have any advice about Composite switchers? Not enough inputs on my TV, largely because of plugging and unplugging cords on the front input to the point where the video in is loose as hell and it effects the picture. Not quite ready to open that bitch up, and changing things in the back is a hassle; not to mention I don't want the same thing to happen back there.

Brands I should avoid etc.?

[Anonymous No.3129139]

>>3129106
we're talking composite, you can just get a switcher at goodwill.

[Anonymous No.3129417]

So does this support 2 BNC S-video?

[Anonymous No.3129429]

>>3129417
Nope

[Anonymous No.3129485]

I've been told that you should not raise a CRT's constrast high or it will wear out faster (get darker).

Are there any other CRT settings that need to be in a certain range to maximize the life of the display?

I'm talking about both normie menu and technician menu settings.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3129610]

>>3126471
This guy knows his shit.

[Anonymous No.3129697]

How can I learn to work on CRTs in this day and age?

I repair some much simpler home appliances for a living and want to be able to not only fix my own shit, but maybe offer a service since local places are moving away from CRT repair.

[Anonymous No.3129739]

>>3129610
did you wear rubber gloves for your yoke adjustments?

[Anonymous No.3129741]

>>3129485
Brightness.

[Anonymous No.3129883]

>>3129697
I'm not sure but CRTs are extremely complicated

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3129987]

>>3126471
One thing I have a disagreement with you on: I think you can move the yoke on any CRT. I had to twist the yoke to break off some glue on one of my sets, but after that it was rotatable.Do you mean that it cannot _easily_ be rotated?

Also, rubber gloves aren't too necessary at the voltages and currents in the yoke. Just don't hold something metal with your other hand. A glove won't hurt, but not necessary.

I think I recognize you from IRC, but I'm not going to make a guess just for anonymity and in case I'm wrong. You just remind me of someone.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3130018]

>>3126539
>how could it hurt the set?
spamming a degaussing circuit. Also, most devices are not intended to be power cycled like that - Most even have warnings in the manuals saying specifically not to do that. Also, you would be adjusting for multiple days (as in literal 24 hour periods of time) if you were to powercycle. Also, it wpuldn't even provide much additional protection due to the capacitors in the set and the CRT itself also acting as a capacitor and holding charge. It's just not smart or feasible. Also you should ONLY adjust or calibrate a TV when it is totally warmed up. This is especially true on CRTs due to their imprecise analog nature and the fact that your screen is a vacuum tube (Most tubes only work to spec when they have been powered fot a decent period of time), but also on many LCD's due to the fluorescent backlight.

>>3126585
This is bait but I'll take it anyway. Aperture grille is not the definitive 'good tech' and I prefer my broadcast shadow mask CRT to my PVM-20L5, which supposedly uses the 'good tech.'

>>3126591
By polarity you mean it was made for the opposite hemisphere? Possible, but the correct solution on such a case is to rotate the yoke.

>>3126660
Try walking in the first stage of castlevania, outside. You will see dot crawl. That's the issue when moving.

In stills it represents itself as fringing. I have some nice pics, I'll try to find them when I get home.

>>3126813
My capture card picks up faint diagonal. lines, but I checked my cable and it actually uses the proper Y/C lines. I think it's something else in the SNES, because it looks perfect on my CRTs but shows itself on digital captures and LCDs.

>>3129739
No, because I'm not paranoid/scared as fuck. But he's right about the subcarrier frequency and the tricks involved on some consoles.

>>3129741
No, brghtness has next to no effect on CRT longevity compared to contrast. Turning it down too far lowers your black level making dark details invisible even in total dark.

[Anonymous No.3130031]

Just had my first go round with a CRT Rejuvenator belonging to a guy I know. Pic Related. It basically burns crap off the guns. We ran it over three arcade monitors, one of which I've had a chance to test.

The tube in question was from 1983, and normally took a full 10 minutes to warm up and come into sharp focus. It's brightness and sharpness were ok though. After some slight rejuv on the mildest settings it's a little brighter, a little sharper, both noticeable, but it now comes into focus like it's brand new. Surprising.

The second tube was in terrible condition, shocking geometry, bad colours, pretty dim. I'll report back when i've tried that one, but it might take a while.

Third tube i was picking up from him, so i have no basis for comparison.

I'd love to hear what these things can do for a PVM or similar high-end tube. He had a manual that was in two parts, one of which was basically a huge list of tubes. If mine from 1983 were in there, surely the PVMs are.

[Anonymous No.3130106]

How long are we going to be able to keep these things going?

Part availability is already not great.

[Anonymous No.3130113]

>>3129987
which irc?

btw im the old bvm guy with the red discoloration

i tried adjusting the yoke but this thing is insanely complicated (you cant get to the near back of the yoke without removing everything which would not allow the crt to be running foir adjustments) and yoke is held in place with many many spots of rubber/caulkshit etc
not to mention its almost impossible to adjust it while having the crt on as theres a board right above it that will shock the fuck out of you

in the end i used a small piece of metal taped on the side of the tube near the front which almost completely fixed it

i feel kind of shameful about it

one more thing
the circuit board mentioned here >>3128293
gets very hot to say the least even with the large heatsink on the top of it
since it has been repaired before im worried its heading in that same direction again
i rigged something up with 3 computer case fans and that seems to work pretty well

any suggestions for the heat issue?
im considering hunting for a new board to replace that one

[Anonymous No.3130123]

>>3130106
Im not sure anon

I imagine in 20 to 30 years we'll just be searching for shit quality consumer CRTs that were somehow left NIB for 40 years

i dont predict any of the 90's tubes lasting another 20 years
the early 2000s top tier BVMs i think might last 20 more

well at least we have OLED to look forward to
if upscalers keep being made

[Anonymous No.3130128]

>>3130031
are these things supposed to just be like reverting the tube to its factory standards?
is it effectively a reset on geometry and convergence as well?

[Anonymous No.3130138]

>>3130031
Second one came up just as good! It wouldn't come into focus properly before, colours were off, and the geometry was awful. The geometry still wants work, but the colours and sharpness are now great.

I really didn't expect the rejuv to make that much difference. This one needed work on some of the higher settings before it tested ok the the machine - the danger being that the higher settings can kill the tube entirely. But in this case it worked really well!

[Anonymous No.3130143]

>>3130128
Kinda. Sometimes they work well, sometimes they only fix certain problems because the chassis might have it's own issues. And sometimes they kill a weak tube entirely.

There are a few issues they can't fix, like shorts *within* a filament, where the coil has collapsed on itself.

>>3130106
See>>3130031
I also repaired the chassis for both tubes. And there's always RGB hacking consumer sets.

[Anonymous No.3130579]

how bad will emulating on a 4:3 1600x1200 S-IPS display look with a shader?

excuse my blasphemy but I want a 4:3 pc display but I dont have a decent CRT pc monitor and i dont want to pay 60 dollars shipping.

[Anonymous No.3130690]

>tfw haven't seen a single RGB monitor listing for at least a year
should I just settle for a wega, bros?

[Anonymous No.3130695]

>>3130690
yeah a non HD component wega

problem is if its been used much most likely the geometry and focus will be unusable tier bad

where are you located?

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3130714]

>>3128293
That 'gunk' is flux and it's used to clean impurities while soldering. Most manufactured electronics have some left on the board - some wash it off a bit, though. It's normal. If there were burned traces on the PCB I'd be more worried. I have an old IBM text-based terminal where the original power board in the CRT element burned out. Still have to get around to fixing that one. In the meantime I have another compatible screen from ebay, but it cost me a lot more than any of my retro gaming CRTs did because they have a high failure rate and most of them have been recycled/scrapped for meth, and are still used in some industrial settings. Anyway, yeah, it's perfectly safe. Just flux. I don't see burned traces. If you are having issues I'd look for capacitors that have physically popped or leaked, and if you can't find any start replacing them, largest first (being careful to discharge the cap prior to removing it by shorting it while insulated properly from it, or waiting for it to leak charge over a few hours/days).

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3130737]

>>3130031
Oh dear lord. Those rejuvenators cut the remaining lifespan of the tube rather drastically. I'd stay away from them if you can still get it to warm up I'd leave it alone. It'll degrade far faster than before the 'rejuvenation'.

It will have absolutely no impact on geometry or colors, only brightness/warmup time. It just pushes a shitload more power than normal through the tube.
Whatever you do people, DO NOT use one of these on a PVM unless you want me to find where you live and kill you in the.middle of the night for ruining CRTs.

>>3130113
You can (and are supposed to) do it wihlth the boards hanging off the sides or wherever in a non-shorted position, and do the adjustmentd live. It's awkward for sure, but all the service manuals agree on that.

If a magnetism trick fixed it (metal taped down), that's great. Congrats.

Could you show me a pic of the board above the yoke, please?

And the one that gets hot: I need a pic of the top to have any idea what it does. If there's a large aluminum block on the top it's got a heat sink and is meant to get hot
.

>>3130123
>90s tubes won't last 20 more years
Again, My family has had the same 1960s sylvania set since it was new and it still works. If you can replace bad capacitors they will last a VERY long time if you care for them.

>>3130128
No, they tear a new hole in the tube when the old one that the electron gun aims through is getting covered with particles and debris and shit. They are a _last-ditch_ fix for the very worst-working sets.

>>3130138
Enjoy it while it works, because you've just shrunk the lifetime by a lot.

If it was pure shit before, then it was the right thing to do. don't know wht you thought that it'd fix the deflection yoke to burn shit in the tube itself, though.

>>3130579 If you're emulating on a LCD, just go unfiltered or use the 'pixellate' shader to stretch to 4:3 in a pretty visually appealing way. Scanline filters will not look good though.

[Anonymous No.3130748]

>>3130737
Yeah it has a big metal heatsink running through it.

The board at the back of the tube hooks into it and then from it cords run to the cards/boards.

All the spots that get hot on my BVM have heatsinks its just concerning because of the drastic difference in heat levels when comparing it to my PVM.
It would burn you if you left your hand there for long.

[Anonymous No.3130760]

>>3130737
>the hole driller
>getting mad at other using proper tech
(ツ)

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3130945]

>>3130737
>No, they tear a new hole in the tube when the old one that the electron gun aims through is getting covered with particles and debris and shit.
It really seems like you're explaining this in as obtuse of a way as possible to make it seem worse than it actually is. You're sending higher current than what would normally be expected for the operation of the electron gun(s) in the hopes that it will remove oxidation build up that is preventing/sullying proper operation. Yes, if you use the highest setting, it is going to do one hell of a number on a CRT, but saying the same of the lower power cleaning cycles is just silly.

In the case they DID use that highest setting as a first attempt, then you do have some grounds for being a bit uppity.

[Anonymous No.3130948]

>>3130945
>In the case they DID use that highest setting as a first attempt

>>3130031
>After some slight rejuv on the mildest settings

they played safe and it worked well enough

[Anonymous No.3130991]

>>3120978
Super Boy for 12 bucks, huh? Shit, I wanted that since it came out, but my parents never got it. I completely forgot about that. Shame Game Boy games are so expensive.

[Anonymous No.3131125]

>>3130737
>no impact on geometry or colors, only brightness/warmup time
Well, it did make things brighter, more colourful and sharper, so you're not really correct.

>DO NOT use one of these on a PVM unless...
... unless it's crapped out and destined for the scrap heap? FFS don't be retarded. We used it on the first tube really gently because it was tired and getting old. And it worked well.

>Enjoy it while it works, because you've just shrunk the lifetime by a lot.
We used it on the second tube because it was shite, and if the rejuv did nothing I was going to bin it as unusable. Anything > Nothing. Get it?

Got to be better than throwing away CRTs. Unless you know someone who can re-coat the phosphors... oh wait, but then the guns would still be screwed.

The geometry you may be right about. It might be my imagination. Then again, I want to think about it, as the gun firing equally along the filament, instead of preferentially from unencrusted areas, might help. That would effectively be changing the position of the filament.

[Anonymous No.3131126]

>>3131125
just ignore that prick, you did as good as you could given your situation.

[Princess !dicks9T6Xo No.3131202]

I'm trying to figure out the naming convention for the PVM monitors, if you have anything to add / confirm pls respond

Sony PVM-[Screen Size][Range and Subrange][Version]

Range, (for these tobe listed a manual must exist including the date)
30, 31, 32, 34, 36 | 1988
40, 41, 42, 44, 45 | 1994 - 1998
50, 53 | 1994
71 | 1984
N5, N6 | 1995 - 1998
M2 M4 | 1997 - 1998
L1, l2 | 2001 - 2003

Version
D, Medical
Q, High Line count, SPTE-C?
M, Multiformat?
A, Australia
U, United States & Canada
E, Europe

[Anonymous No.3131346]

>>3129987
>Do you mean that it cannot _easily_ be rotated?
I unscrewed the clamp of the yoke till it was fully loose but I still couldn't rotate nor pull the yoke. At least I think it can be done but I decided against using excessive force on my sets because I didn't wanted to take any risks of breaking the neck of the tube.

>Also, rubber gloves aren't too necessary at the voltages and currents in the yoke.
I shocked myself a few times while adjusting the convergence rings, better wear gloves as current going from one hand to the other hand can be very dangerous (current goes though the heart).

>I think I recognize you from IRC
Nope, not at all.

[Anonymous No.3131380]

Thinking of grabbing a sony pvm after being impressed with the picture quality. But I already have 2 27" sony wegas from around 2003/2004 and wondering if I should just be happy with those.

anyone have personal experience when upgrading from a similar tv to a sony pvm?

[Anonymous No.3131481]

>>3127053
>>3127059
not enough blank lines (back porch) between vertical sync pulse and the image?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3131614]

>>3131346
You couldn't rotate it because there was glue. Twist and the glue will come loose. I'd put the TV face-down for this to avoid the risk of breaking the neck. I had to break off some glue to rotate my 20L5's yoke.

For current to go from one hand to the other you have to be doing something stupid, like grounding yourself with your other hand.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3131623]

>>3131380
PVM scanlines are ugly-thin IMO for 240p.

[Anonymous No.3131639]

>>3131202
M can't be multiformat, My 20M2MDU is 15khz only.

[Anonymous No.3131684]

>>3131623
Dat frankensystem tho.

Get a model 1 CD for the love of christ.

[Anonymous No.3131976]

>>3121852
>>3122336
friendly reminder for those that mod their own shit:

TAKE A PHYSICAL INVENTORY!
i was positive i had 680k resistors, but i did not.
yeah, i could wire a few to equal 680k but that's ugly and triggers my autism

i have them all wired up and waiting though, enjoy the dick pic.

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.3131987]

>>3131202
>http://www.broadcaststore.com/pdf/model/670625/sony%20monitor%20lineup%20guide.pdf
This explains the lettering system.

[Anonymous No.3132071]

So I just took this shot of my NIB shadow mask CRT today.
What do you guys think?

[Anonymous No.3132091]

>>3132071
new in box?
Who sells new crts these days?

[Anonymous No.3132173]

>>3132091
It's an unused arcade replacement CRT

[Anonymous No.3132358]

>>3132173
I do have dreams about getting an arcade multi-sync-monitor (15-24-31 kHz) one day. It would be neat to hook up the Dreamcast to.

[Anonymous No.3132391]

>>3131684

Maybe he likes systems that function

[Anonymous No.3132491]

>>3131976
>riggers my autism

Iknowthatfeel

There must be a local store that has the resistors if you don't feel like waiting.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132568]

>>3131684
>Dat frankensystem tho.
>
>Get a model 1 CD for the love of christ.

>>3132391
>Maybe he likes systems that function.
I do like systems that function, but the main reason I don't get a model 1 CD is that they are expensive as fuck and only different aesthetically.

I did at least restrict my searches to sega CDs with the little base extension so my genesis wouldn't hang off the side.

Also there is no god and no christ. There may have been a Jesus for all I know, but he did not have godly powers and was not 'christ' or a 'messiah'.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132579]

>>3132091
Conrac. I've been trying to contact them for pricing. They sell CRT monitors that support RGB at 15 to 40khz and are 14 inches diagonally.

http://www.conrac.us/K42.htm

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132582]

>>3132358
ping since this is what you want if the screen is big enough for you at 14 inches. See >>3132579 .

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132601]

>>3132582
Also shot them an emaill where I asked if the monitor was 24khz-capable. I suspect it is but my 20L5 isn't, so I am not certain.

[Anonymous No.3132607]

>>3131987
Wtf that explains nothing. It shows some examples from the post-200 lineup, sure, but tells you nothing about earlier stuff, which is where most of the confusion is.

>>3131202
Q - no idea
QM - predates the use of the "A" code for Australia, and may also denote models intended for Europe. (So predates the "DE" code too.)
MD- medical.

>>3132582
Not him but a bit small for my taste, especially to use as an actual arcade tube.

Thanks for the link though, I was trying to remember those guys a little while ago.

[Anonymous No.3132610]

>>3132071
noice

[Anonymous No.3132632]

>>3132091
>>3132173
>>3132358
>>3132579
>>3132601
>>3132610

Dont go buying monitors because of me guys.

it was a ruse that's an IPS display using MAME HLSL
i just wanted to see if you CRT connoisseurs would notice.
Well now I truly know how well LCDs can emulate scanlines. (on mame at least)

[Anonymous No.3132636]

>>3132091
>Who sells new crts these days?
Ikegami, apparently: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/632861-REG/Ikegami_HTM1917R_HTM_1917_R_19_HDTV_SDTV_Multi_Format.html

That's a "cheap" one too, there are others for over $11k. If you absolutely must have a brand new broadcast monitor, Ikegami has you covered. I have the SD TM20-80R and it's built like a brick of lead, with a solid metal frame around the screen (stole it for $100 on eBay).

I wonder where they are getting new CRTs from? Either old stock or a production line is still running in Japan (my Ikegami has a Panasonic tube, I believe).

[Anonymous No.3132638]

>>3132579
40khz? thats what 600p?

what kind of hookups do these things have?

[Anonymous No.3132641]

>>3132636
>>3132636
all of these 'new' tubes are just old inventory

no one has the capacity to manufacture new tubes
the technology is essentially lost

#makeCRTgreatagain

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132664]

>>3132641
No one kept the technology toanufactire tubes
...Besides Conrac, who has said they no longer have the equipment for larger color CRTs, but who continue to manufacture the color K42 and a bunch of small to ~20 inch black and white tubes.

Before I found out about Conrac I thought CRTs were dead. I imagine they will stop sometime soon, but they are an established name in CRTs. They made lots of broadcast monitors in the 60s and 50s, including some of the first color ones.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132679]

>>3132638
800x600 is the defined max. resolution, not '600p'. There is no standard defined for horizontal resolution for '600 progressive lines' that is phrased as '600p.' You could probably boost the pixel clock and get more than 800 horizontal pixels in, but it isn't guaranteed.

I said, RGB. And on the site it says a D-sub 15 position, so I assume 'VGA'-style HD15 (also not a standard name, but well understood. No one knows what 2560p means horizontally).

No composote or anything, I think, but I did ask what besides RGB they can do if anything in my email. They haven't gotten back to me so I think I'll phone them on Friday (the one day that I don't work until after they close), if I still haven't by then.

>>3132632
I didn't see the picture since I was just on my lunch break on my phone and didn't have much time. You should have waited for more than one or two responses. I would have called bullshit because it clearly is.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3132686]

>>3132607
Pac Man has an arcade tube about this size (MAYYBE an inch or two larger). I played a real machine recently so I'm pretty positive about this. New-ish arcade games? Too small, definitely. But it's not in any way a bad tube.

Pong definitely uses a monitor this size or smaller, but that hardly counts.

[Anonymous No.3132690]

>>3132632
ignore the twonk.

And you do realise that photographing CRT's doesn't do them justice, right? Take all the photos you want, a real CRT is going to be much nicer than the shots, and much nicer than your shader as well.

[Anonymous No.3132707]

Speak of Conrac, look at this exotic beauty: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Conrac-106709-901-Video-Monitor-/251999100438?hash=item3aac511e16:g:7pcAAOSwHnFVgcJu

That's an actual military grade rgb crt display used for a sonar display according to these specs: http://www.parttarget.com/5820-01-487-7422_5820014877422_106709-901.html

Imagine how much money it cost the gov, and it's new in the box. Look at the "all business" markings etched into the covers for adjustments. You never see mil-spec stuff like this come up...too bad the seller is smoking crack with the price (unless you have a nuclear "Boomer" sub, nobody will pay that, and Uncle Sam probably has a NOS hoard of these).

[Anonymous No.3132802]

>>3132707
Its not 15khz and the dot pitch is awful

any run of the mill pc crt is better than that

[Anonymous No.3132813]

what are the chances that 5 hole connector supports rgbhv?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-2090-0092-Sony-CHM-9001-00-10-Color-Trinitron-CRT-16500C-54750A-83480A-/231410630739?hash=item35e1260053:g:e4AAAOSwD0lUf4Fs

[Anonymous No.3132843]

rgb pc engine duo r on my sony 1954q

[Anonymous No.3132846]

>>3132802
>any run of the mill pc crt is better than that
Not in terms of build quality, as that thing is like a swiss watch compared to the average pc monitor build. Besides, it would be perfectly serviceable as an emulation display.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3132893]

>>3132607
Q: Multistandard (NTSC/PAL/SECAM/etc) before that became standard
QM: Multi Voltage?

[Anonymous No.3132901]

>>3132846
It can't do 3840x240/480 @120Hz (it cant sync over 75Hz so no genuine 240p or linedoubled 480p)
It can't do 640x480 @60Hz-75Hz (no SLG-3000)
It can't do 800x600 @60Hz-75Hz (no SLG-3000)

we're in shader/filter territory after that senpai
accept it
its shit

[Anonymous No.3133082]

>>3116850
Messing around with one of my PVMs and i cant figure out what the aperature setting does. I know its described as sharpness, but do any of you know how it affects picture? Been playing with it set on 0 in this pic. Cant notice a difference versus full...

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3133095]

>>3133082
Edge Enhancement; Same idea as VM/Velocity Modulation settings on consumer sets.

[Anonymous No.3133104]

>>3133095
So basically if i have the best quality hook up like s video or rgb i can leave this bitch at zero since its alresdy passing the most detailed pic through the tube. Thanks bra.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3133146]

Whee, finally found time to finish the main part of the Mega Amp. Going to make my own headphone buffer I think, since I'm going to have to wire it to the volume slider, and I want it to be able to drive actual headphones, not just line level audio.

Anyway, the VA7 I'm going to sell is coming together nicely so far.

CRT pic obligatory - s-video.

I love my camera. I can even get to individual phosphors :D

[Free 20L5 guy No.3133149]

>>3133082
>>3133104
Fixed by the power of autism. 1 of 2.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3133151]

>>3133149
2 of 2.

Losslessly rotated, btw. jpegtran is something everyone should be able to use since 4chan strips EXIF data.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3133156]

>>3133146
And from a few feet away.

[Anonymous No.3133163]

>when reading how the average gamer understands display lag

How can so many people so be collectively wrong? Why are the only informed people isolated on autismo retro boards?

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3133165]

>>3125370
If it gets darker your contrast is too high for the amount of power being fed to the tube. Dial back the contrast a bit.

[Anonymous No.3133168]

>>3133163
Not like the autism retro boards are free of ignorance. Many people here view CRTs as the pinnacle of display technology.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3133171]

>>3133163
Same reason some people swallow DLC-stuffed games. They don't know any better and there's a circlejerk of others who act just like them. We do it too, but I like to think we're smarter.

[Anonymous No.3133179]

>>3124820
>muh TV has to be as big as the table and fourteen times as heavy for it to be worth it

[Anonymous No.3133189]

>>3132843
What's the game?

[Anonymous No.3133191]

>>3132843
pvm-1954q
nice. Wonder what the difference is between that and my 1944Q. Wish I had a pc engine/tgfx16. I've yet to find an affordable one.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3133201]

>>3125129
They also don't have RCA jacks on the front panel.

[Anonymous No.3133256]

Does anyone have any suggestions for modding some kind of carry handle onto a CRT so that it's easier to move around? What about some kind of strap? My Sony Trinitron has no handles on it whatsoever and moving it is really scary due to how heavy and irregularly shaped it is. I'm terrified that I'm going to drop it, break my foot, and send thousands of shards of glass and toxic gas flying all throughout my house.

[Anonymous No.3133259]

>>3133179
>worth it
>it

Subjectivity is the root of ill-created argumentation

Shut up please

[Anonymous No.3133262]

>>3133256
You'd probably do good to make some kind of over-the-arm carrying platform, or something. Maybe >>>/diy/ can help you.

[Anonymous No.3133450]

Not retro
I've been looking to get a ps2 to play some sweet games I never got around to but a few gen1 ps3's popped up around me.

I guess I want to know how different the PS3 performs compared to the ps2. I know there's up scaling that the 3 does and also there are two versions? One that has a chip to play ps2 games and one that simply emulates.
Please help me out.

[Anonymous No.3133514]

>>3133189
it's a fighting game called Asuka 120% Maxima Burning Fest

[Anonymous No.3133669]

>>3133450
- Only models with 4USB ports on the front are backwards compatible
- 20GB models are full on PS2 hardware compatible
- 80GB models are half hardware, half software (and still pretty damn good, also easier to find and more reliable, I have one.)
- You can get them for like $99 at Gamestop now if you hunt using the product locator on the website.
- Make sure to have a friend (or you) replace the thermal paste on it though, they run HOT AS FUCK.

[Anonymous No.3133674]

>>3133450
>>3133669
To follow up; the performance is quite good and the scaling is decent if you're into that kind of thing. I usually play without scaling, the HDMI progressive output is a pretty huge leap over the PS2s component out, though some find it a little 'darker' overall. I think it's worth it to have a PS3, even if it's not a BC one. You still have access to the entire PS1 and PS3 library, and possibly the whole PS2 library or at least the PS2 Classics on a non-BC model.

[Anonymous No.3133754]

>>3133191
>Wonder what the difference is between that and my 1944Q
no idea, I haven't seen much info on the 19 pvms>>3133191
>Wish I had a pc engine/tgfx16. I've yet to find an affordable one.
great thing about them is no copy protection on cd games, so you can burn anything you want

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3133908]

>>3133754
Yeah, I do that on my sega CD. But in my experience Tgfx16s go for over $90 which is a bit above my price range.

[Anonymous No.3133939]

>tfw a friend of my dad has a SED in his living room
dunno how he got it, my guess is he works for Toshiba

[Anonymous No.3133996]

So I just came into possession of a Sony Trinitron KV-13FS100 (pic related) in like new condition. Looking to sell it, but I have no idea what the asking price is for it.

Can anyone help?

[Anonymous No.3134013]

>>3133908
If you only go for the core unit (no CDs) they can be had for about $40 or less, at least PCEs.
Particularly the white ones with only RF out are the cheapest (but they can easily be modded for composite or RGB, + attachments can give you composite out).
I think I got my white unit for somewhere $20-$30.
I paid $70 or more for the CD unit though (I can also blame my self for buying it at Super Potato at Akihabara which is one of the more expensive places in Japan), and it's not even in that great condition, it skips really easily and sometimes gives me bad reads and the usual, It'll be needing a bit of love soon.

[Anonymous No.3134065]

>>3133939
Pics now.

[Anonymous No.3134132]

>>3133669
>>3133674
Yea I have a PS3 but it's not backwards compatible. I really want to get the original look of what the ps2 offered but was wondering what people thought was the best authentic ps2 look.
I guess I should skip the bc PS3 and just get the ps2

[Anonymous No.3134174]

>>3134132
>>3133674
>>3133669
>>3133450
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7fCTHu99bk
this will answer all your questions and then some

[Anonymous No.3134287]

>>3122209
>FST

Flatter Squarer Tube

[Anonymous No.3134354]

>>3134174
Yea I saw that a while back. I guess I should just find myself a ps2, like I said I've got a PVM so I should take advantage of that, I wouldn't want to try and hook a PS3 up to it.

[Anonymous No.3134372]

i currently have the chance to get a Barco SCM 2840. It has scart (RGB), very thin frames etc. and in these videos it looks quite fantastic!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPGkIzXgr_s&nohtml5=False

Does someone have one? Do you have any further informmation on them like TV-lines etc.??

[Anonymous No.3134438]

>>3126354
Wait, so you're skirting the minimum sync requirements of the monitor (I can't get mine to display 320x240) by doubling the refresh rate? That's... genius and I should trying it.

[Anonymous No.3134463]

I saw a PVM like this one at Good Will a while ago where the screen was only like 5". They were asking $10 for it. Did I miss out? I couldn't imagine playing on a screen that small versus my 20" RGB Trinitron TV.

[Anonymous No.3134471]

>>3134463
They tend to go for more than that on ebay. I would go for it if I found one locally for that cheap, if only for the cuteness factor. But I wouldn't really consider it for anything serious.

[Anonymous No.3134609]

How do I switch my resolution to 320x240 @ 120/170Hz on Windows? Is there a way?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3134642]

RIP KD-34XBR2

[Anonymous No.3134697]

>>3133996

Good luck even getting peanuts out of consumer CRTs

[Anonymous No.3134707]

>>3133996
According to ebay BIN listings, thousands

[Anonymous No.3134710]

Are the Dell trinitrons good?

[Anonymous No.3134713]

Help: I've made MAME output 320x240 on my CRT and now I can't stop playing.

[Anonymous No.3134724]

>>3134372
Its a consumer model?
probably somewhere between 200 and 400 lines
that being said if its RGB then its worth it anyway
>>3134471
Custom Resolution Utility is the name of the program
you want 120Hz
doesnt work on intel integrated graphics.

[Anonymous No.3134727]

>>3134724
Yeah, I've done it and it looks so goddamn good. How can I prevent CPS2 games from scaling though? They run at 384x224 IIRC.

[Anonymous No.3134728]

>>3134724
nonono this is no consumer gear. These are video wall/studio monitors. I just can't find precise data..

[Anonymous No.3134734]

>>3134710
the PC monitors?
some are alright

anything at or above 19" will have 96Khz+ horizontal sync so you can get high resolutions

[Anonymous No.3134747]

>>3134727
Hmmm well you could try setting your monitor to that res

people online suggest 3840x240 so you dont have to change it for any games that are wider than 320p

but for vertical resolutions i think you have to have your monitor set for it so in that case i would try 3840x224

read this thread
>>/vr/thread/1584547

and the comments at the bottom of here
http://filthypants.blogspot.com/2014/03/tvs-and-retro-gaming-emulation.html

[Anonymous No.3134770]

>>3134747
Here's another method that works with MAME: I set 384x288 (what 384x240 would be in full 4:3), rebooted the driver and mame, booted it and then stretched the image out with my monitor controls. No scaling and correct aspect ratio, and also did not change the settings for other resolutions on my monitor. It's nice enough to remember every resolution separately.

[Anonymous No.3134771]

>>3134734
This one specifically the one everyone seems to have. Bad picture but it's the only one I have and I'm not home to take one

[Anonymous No.3134780]

>>3134771
yeah get it
im not sure if thats a 17 or a 19 but

either would be fine for 240p@120Hz

but few 17" sync high enough for a decent res (if you want to use it for a computer monitor in general) at a decent Hz (most 17" will only do 1440x1080 at 60Hz which is kind of shit)

[Anonymous No.3134786]

>>3134463
5" PVMs are meme machines. I'd pay $10 for one but only for its exceptional cuteness. 8" is really the minimum for a desk CRT

[Anonymous No.3134793]

>>3134697
Well that's disappointing. At least I got it for free. Guess I'll just sell it on craiglist for beer money.

[Anonymous No.3134805]

>>3134372
I found this

Its not much
although if this is a studio monitor
the TVL could be 450 to 1000 lines

if you say the scanlines arent very apparent its likely somewhere between 450-600

It's very nice and you'll likely not find another that good

[Anonymous No.3134806]

>>3134805
*at that size

[Anonymous No.3134816]

>>3134793
Why don't you throw your pos crt off and bridge and jump off after it you autistic fuck.

Maybe it will stop you from shitting up this thread.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134848]

>>3134786
>8" is the minimum
8" is a meme too. They are way too small. 8" is like using a phablet, you can't have it further than 5 inches from your face to read it.

12 is probably as low as I will ever go for a desk tube.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134852]

>>3134780
>1440x1080 is shit
first world problems.

[Anonymous No.3134857]

>>3134852
at 60Hz it is

for a decent refresh rate you would have to run it at like 960p or less

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134860]

>>3134013
>living in/visiting japan to find consoles affordably
Fuck you man. I can't afford to go there and now I feel sad D:

How about giving prices that most of us will actually end up paying?

[Anonymous No.3134863]

>>3134852
1440x1080 is great, it's a great resolution for 90s anime that's just been remastered. Not at 60Hz though. Flickery mess.

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134867]

>>3134609
By using linux.

There's probably a windows way but windows is nearly as bad as OSX about custom resolutions. On OSX I had to make a custom EDID file to add a custom resolution to my CRT.

[Anonymous No.3134869]

>>3134816
Wow, fuck you too psycho. All I was doing was asking a legit question.

[Anonymous No.3134872]

Hey /vr/ Im having trouble getting RGB working can anyone help me ? I own a 8' Sony Trinitron PVM

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134878]

>>3133939
Pics or I don't believe you.

Also you'd better have a backstory.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.3134879]

>>3134857
(1152x)864p for 75hz
That's about as high of a "standard" resolution as you can get out of your run-of-the-mill 17'', 70khz horizontal limited CRT.

I will second that 1440x1080 is quite nice for remastered animu though.

[Anonymous No.3134889]

>>3134872
what video cable are you using on the monitor?

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134895]

>>3134857
>960p
Again, that means nothing. Give us horizontal resolutions too. The only times I would ever omit horizontal is for non-PC uses, and then only when talking about something like 1080p (standardized 1920x1080), 720p (1280x720 standard), and MAAAYBE 480P since on a PC CRT that usually means 640x480.

[Anonymous No.3134897]

>>3134867
I can actually use the resolution on DirectX apps after setting it in CRU, but I can't select it anywhere else. The mysteries of Windows.

[Anonymous No.3134901]

>>3134872
can you explain more?

[Free 20L5 Guy No.3134907]

>>3134872
Fixed by the power of autism.

Check your fucking photos next time.

[Anonymous No.3134916]

>>3134805
thank you very much!

[Anonymous No.3134920]

>>3134895
I am not talking about for emulation.

I am talking for general use.
For general use you want to use a 4:3 resolution. (or whichever ratio the display is natively.)
I do not know what you are referring to by 'again' but you have succeeded in pissing me off. Stop acting antagonistic.

http://xtiming.sourceforge.net/cgi-bin/xtiming.pl
Use this to calculate your resolutions. Most 17" PC CRTs only sync to 70Khz Horizontal. (120-140 vertical since you demand me to specificize everything.)

If you did not have autism maybe you could figure out what I meant by my earlier post like >>3134879 did

[Anonymous No.3134990]

>>3134860
$40 is not all that unrealistic, if you know your way around proxy shipping sites and the like. But it's the CD units, which are notorious for crapping out, that are expensive, as I've said.

[Anonymous No.3135000]

>>3134463
Would make an excellent and portable test monitor. I'd have paid $25 for it... but that's AUD, so same as $10 in real money.

>>3134848
>8" is a meme too. They are way too small.
Don't be such a prat. I use My 8"ers on the desktop to watch TV and play PS3. Also, nice and portable for testing cabs.

[Anonymous No.3135017]

>>3134990
>>3134990
You could always try getting a junk/broken duo system (the first combo system, the duo-r and duo-rx are more reliable and more expensive) and try repairing it, btw. I've read that they have really bad caps, so many could probably be fixed simply by recapping. Problem is you could have a broken CD on top of that, but then you'd at least be able to play HuCARDS, so it's the same as just having a core unit.

[Anonymous No.3135024]

>>3134901
Im using snes SCART cables into a converter and then using SCART to component cables

[Anonymous No.3135029]

can anyone see this? its more apparent irl

its a faint darker colored area
its just a small line that runs about 3/4s of the image on the right edge
its kind of hard to see and i can only see it on light yellow screens
its almost like the coating on top of the glass could have eroded

can anyone say if its the side affect of an old tube? or just the coating on the outside

sorry to be picky but its really irritating

[Anonymous No.3135035]

>>3135024
Why the converter? That set would take RGB happily...

I'm assuming the SCART-component cables are just a breakout? Have you checked the settings on the PVM? Set to component/RGB, not Line A/B? What happens when you plug the Y line (green plug) into the Video A input? Can you get a B&W picture up? Hit the ext. sync button a few times?

[Anonymous No.3135079]

>>3135035
Heres the back of my pvm if it helps better understand

[Anonymous No.3135090]

>>3135079
you need sync

[Anonymous No.3135093]

>>3135090
Sync?

[Anonymous No.3135097]

>>3135090
Not if he's converting to component, he doesn't. The Sync is on the Y line.

If he's not actively converting to component, he wants a sync line, yes. hopefully his breakout has 4 cables + audio.

[Anonymous No.3135109]

>>3135079
Read my post. Follow instructions. Post back.

First, try getting a pic up with composite vid using regular AVcables. Then, without touching the PVM settings, set up your SCART-component stuff and plug the green plug into the same spot as the yellow plug. B&W picture? Or no pic at all?

[Anonymous No.3135137]

>>3135093
http://retrorgb.com/sync.html

im not sure if your converter is working properly

[Anonymous No.3135191]

>>3135079
Get rid of the converter. You're supposed to be using this.

[Anonymous No.3135238]

So would a simple degausse coil fix this?
And if so could anyone recommend a brand, not looking to spend a fortune.

[Anonymous No.3135259]

>>3135238
in my experience no

yoke adjustment or magnets/small piece of magnetic metal taped to the tube

[Anonymous No.3135286]

>>3135259
Shit, I'm worried I'll fuck things up even more if I go under the hood. I'm going to read the service manual like 10x over to make sure I don't fuck anything up.

Any special kind of magnet or strength of magnet? Or will just about anything work, like a fridge magnet?

[Anonymous No.3135415]

>>3135286
not him, but try it and see. Try smaller magnets first, then more powerful ones.

For a tube I have, i basically stuck some small rare-earth (really powerful) magnets around the tube rim itself for some colour correction. This was after convergence strips round the yoke did absolutely nothing.

[Anonymous No.3135424]

>>3135286
Hmm is the image also bowed?
if it is a degauss coil may fix it

btw the metal doesnt have to be magnetic
i find nonmagnetic metals to be better because they dont warp the convergence as considerably
(i used a piece of chrome plated nickel and it fixed the discoloration without fucking with the convergence)

all you do is take the top off and move some metalnshit around the tube seeing if it fixes it and taping it down
literally no way to fuck this up haha

[Anonymous No.3135473]

>>3135424
The rest of the image is fine. Don't pay attention to my smart phone photography, it doesn't show the monitor in the best light.

So just any random small scrap metal will do? I always hear how these things hold a charge and can kill you, but applying a magnet/metal to the tube wouldn't do this. Still just frightened

>>3135415
I'll try applying the metal first like anon^ suggested. If no luck then I'll start out with small magnets.

Can i have the monitor powered on and displaying an image or will I get kill. Forgive my noobiness

[Anonymous No.3135493]

>>3135473
dont fuck with any boards
dont remove the anode cap

the outside of the tube isnt electrified

[Anonymous No.3135501]

>>3135493
Don't fucking touch the anode cap, more like

[Anonymous No.3135504]

>>3135493
>the outside of the tube isnt electrified
There's high voltage where the flyback transformer is soldered to the chassis board.

[Anonymous No.3135520]

>>3135493
>>3135501
>>3135504
this all makes me feel very safe

[Anonymous No.3135548]

>>3135504

>>3135493 said
>dont fuck with any boards

[Anonymous No.3135564]

the glass isnt electrified

dont touch anything else and theres no risk of shock

your crt isnt a bogeyman

[Anonymous No.3135578]

>>3134869

Ignore the shitposter

Your TV is nice as consumer models go but in high supply and low demand.

[Anonymous No.3135580]

How is there still no new thread

[Anonymous No.3135603]

Started to use one of those phone apps that show local sellers and saw a lady two TVs for $10. Didn't care too much about the flat screen but liked how small this TV in pic related looked. Not crazy about the DVD player, but from the description she's says they both work.
Can't really tell what brand it is or if it's worth picking up, I've just been wanting a small cet to have on my desk to play N64/NES/Genesis/various other systems on. While I watch Netflix on my other TV.
What do you guys think?

[Anonymous No.3135605]

>>3135564
I'm just rubbing the back of the tube with metal, or a magnet correct? I for some reason think that it is not glass back there, but I'll do my best not to die and listen to what y'all said

[Anonymous No.3135607]

>>3135603
see if it has s-video at least

i wouldnt pick up any crt that only has composite or RF

[Anonymous No.3135615]

>>3135605
where the cathode ray tube arrow is or higher

not all metals work
i used chrome plated nickel (screw)

steel didnt work for me

[Anonymous No.3135621]

>>3135615
Do you literally mean higher, or do you just mean from where the cathode ray tube arrow is and to the left. No going any lower towards the coils right?

I've got screws so I'll likely try that. I'll prob update with pics

[Anonymous No.3135629]

>>3135607
Will do

[Anonymous No.3135660]

>>3135615
>>3135564
So I'm confused anons, I take off this metal casing and apply metal/magnet directly to the tube?

Like I said the impurity is in the bottom right of the screen

[Anonymous No.3135686]

>>3135660
the guns shoot from the neck outward to the screen, placing something along that edge, if the line between the gun and your problem corner is the edge, should affect the convergence and purity. The more powerful the magnet, the greater the effect, and the closer to the screen front it can be. That's not always convenient, of course.

That shit you're looking at is magnetic shielding. I'm not sure placing a magnet on that will work, but try it. It's not a perfect shield. Otherwise you may need to remove that, and that may sensibly mean discharging the tube to be safe.

Try placing a like a powerful fridge magnet near the front edge before even taking the shield off. A disc magnet, not a film magnet full of strips. And try it flipped around, on edge, etc.

I've actually seen ppl use the big magnet from a subwoofer successfully, where a degaussing coil would fail. Bring the thing in sideways, hold it there a second, and remove.

Really needs to be a magnet whatever you do though, I doubt anything non-magnetic (or possibly non-permeable as well) will get you any result.

[Anonymous No.3135698]

>>3135580
nobody has made one

[Anonymous No.3135702]

>>3135686
Yea there's really no space for me to needle between the magnetic shielding and the front bezel of the monitor.

You mentioned hold the magnet near the problem area and then removing it. Everybody else says to tape it down to the spot. Is there any difference?

Why would I get this color impurity if the set has a magnetic shielding? Maybe it took a big knock to that corner at some point.

[Anonymous No.3135712]

>>3135686
Like so?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135743]

>>3135286
Fridge magnet may be too strong, even. But it won't permanently damage anything to try it.

The best way to actually fix the problem is to loosen the yoke and fix it, but then you have to fix convergence too and it starts to become a real clusterfuck.

While fixing purity you'll want to be able to feed solid red, green, and blue images to the monitor to check that your colors are actually pure.

I did it myself - If you feel more comfortable with magnets/metal, do that first. If you want the 'professional' style, you need to buy some permalloy strips. I think there's at least one arcade repair parts store online that still sells them - I bought some from them but I forget the site.

[Anonymous No.3135748]

>>3135743
So the monitor can actually be on and running something? I've yet to apply the fridge magnet

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135753]

>>3135748
Yep, it can be on while you do it. A lot of sets (including my PVM) actually come with a couple convergence strips inserted and stuck to the sides of the tube as a permanent fix.

I'd try a piece of metal that is affected by magnetism but is not actually magnetized first. But that's just me. Just don't put a super-strong magnet super-close to the tube or you could warp the aperture grille and make it worse.

[Anonymous No.3135759]

>>3135753
Cool I'll hook it up and have something running on it.
>metal that is affected by magnetism but is not actually magnetized
Like a screw?

Would it be fine to apply where I was motioning in >>3135712

Thanks for the late night help

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135762]

>>3135702
Note also that convergence strips usually go between the tube and the yoke a la picture:

[Anonymous No.3135765]

>>3135762
Yea I see a couple convergence strips on the tube in similar spots

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135769]

>>3135759
I was thinking maybe aluminum foil or a paperclip.

Unrelated: finally finished the Mega Amp for real. Kept finding small problems.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135771]

>>3135769
And the backside.

[Anonymous No.3135779]

>>3135748
yes, do it while the monitor is on, that way you can see the effect you're having.

And yes, try round the edge first. For corner adjustment it might just work.

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135797]

>>3135748
>>3135759
>>3135765
FYI, if you have the time, the yoke is the best way to go about this. It takes many hours, but I got mine to look stellar in the end.

[Anonymous No.3135802]

>>3135769
>>3135779
Tried the aluminum foil but no luck. Wasn't sure how forceful to be, I spun it around a chopstick and poked the inside of the edge of the tube.

Should I try magnet next?

[Free 20L5 guy No.3135808]

>>3135802
Sure, a relatively weak one. A fridge magnet should be good. Just no giant horseshoe magnets or speakers or anything.

Though the only place you'll see any change from something like foil is between the yoke and the tube itself, in the narrow gap between tube surface and the bottom of the yoke. In that pic, the only metal part of the convergence strips were at the very bottom of the strips, not visible because they were covered by the yoke.

You can get stuff wedged in there and fuck things up so that you HAVE to take off the yoke, which is what happened in my case, so you may want to try the magnet first.

[Anonymous No.3135827]

>>3135808
In general the bottom right corner looks darker although the impurity seems to have gone. Just upset that the convergence is now messed with.
I tried a weaker magnet but not much really happened. Traded up to a different stronger fridge magnet.

What thinks you guys?

[Anonymous No.3135836]

>>3135827
I hit the degausse button and everything went to shit. Discoloration is back ;_;

[Anonymous No.3135956]

>>3135520
It's high voltage but no amps anon, you'll feel a tingle at worst. But don't you dare fuck with capacitors.

[Anonymous No.3135971]

>>3135578
One problem with consumer TVs (at least here in yurop where every TV ever has RGB SCART) is you have no idea of their history. It's less of a problem when you have every single pot at your fingertips on older studio monitors with analog chassis, or the service mode on newer digital chassis.
My mom had some guy bring him a nice 28'' Trinitron with a decoder since her old TV broke. Took a while for me to realize, but eventually I went "oh cool! Trinitron!" and I brought my Wii to try it. It was horrible - the picture is bowed so the sides are lower, it's rotated counterclockwise at least 15-20 degrees, it's got poor convergence and focus at the corners, just a shit show. It also would not sync to anything on S-Video for whatever reason, not NTSC nor PAL. So I gave up.

[Anonymous No.3135978]

>>3135971
This wasn't even my first TV that was presumably fucked up by some "technician": In my infancy, had a Philips like the one RGB Rob features here on the left:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyFuSOaC_9Y - It was great! I used to play a bunch of consoles on it. However, once upon a time it got literally thunderstruck, and had to be repaired. The guy my mom chose to repair that TV got it to work again (sans teletext board, but whatever), however, dear god he must have been blind, because his calibration was just appallingly horrible. The red gun's convergence was just wrong, and he left it with an incredible amount of pincushion.

[Anonymous No.3136223]

Placing magnets in the monitor is for fixing convergence in the corners isn't it? If you have that much impurity I thought it would be a yoke misalignment.

[Anonymous No.3136285]

NEW THREAD: >>3136283

NEW THREAD: >>3136283

NEW THREAD: >>3136283

[Anonymous No.3136307]

>>3136285
Fucking casual can't format the OP properly. Messy as fuck senpai

[Anonymous No.3136435]

>>3135827
yep thats what happened when i used a magnet

i prefer non magnetized magnetic metals

[Anonymous No.3136439]

>>3136307
wtf are you talking about? it's exactly as it's always been.

i would know, since i post half of the threads.
oh no, i used lower case letters and didn't use the word 'thread'
or it was mimicking the fucking meme you dumbfuck


call the police, faggot

[Anonymous No.3136543]

>>3135238
what I did was put a magnet close to the bad looking corner for like 1 second, and then remove it immediately. if there's still some bad coloring, repeat process.

be sure to put the magnet's side that makes the corner look worse, not better. It will look like you're making it worse, but once you remove the magnet you'll see the good results.

pic related is the magnets I used.

[Anonymous No.3136550]

>>3135836
lmao

[Anonymous No.3136564]

>>3136223
A lot of people have said magnets help fix impurities but fuck with the convergence actually.
>>3136543
Is this a actually solution, I feel like it'll just fuck up or make everything worse

[Anonymous No.3136607]

>>3136564
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfzE1M8I1o4

this is what I was doing, except I was just placing it on the bad corner cuz the rest of the screen was fine.

[Anonymous No.3136613]

>>3136607
Hah thanks but I might pass on that