CRT THREAD - READY? GO!

[Anonymous No.2797334]

Previous thread(s) - >>2785646

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

Discussion of video processing and scaling devices is okay, but try to keep the focus on CRTs and CRT accessories

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

[Anonymous No.2797340]

hi dad

[Anonymous No.2797793]

For anyone in LA area:

there's a PVM-1910 for sale in Newhall at $25. Check it out on craigslist.

The guy says "Not pretty, but it works", and I don't exactly know what that means, but it's worth a look I'd imagine.

I'd be driving up there right now if I wasn't living in lower Orange County.

[Anonymous No.2797801]

>>2797793
And if anyone grabs this, throw a couple pictures of it our way

[Anonymous No.2797810]

>>2797334
endless duel?

[Anonymous No.2797820]

>>2797810
Looks like Gundam Battle Assault 2

http://www.hardcoregaming101.net/gundam/gundam3.htm

[Anonymous No.2797821]

>>2797810
G Gundam, you fag.

[Anonymous No.2797829]

Makes me want to pick up a bigger consumer Trinitron.

[Anonymous No.2797837]

>>2797829
I have that same 27" from centralia. Video's great but the speakers are pretty shit. Worth the $25 in any case

[Anonymous No.2797838]

>>2797821
>>2797820
i've only seen gundam wing

im a moeshitter sorry

[Anonymous No.2798232]

>>2797829
Big consumer trinitrons are fun. Enjoy the feeling that your whole house is going to explode whenever you start it up because of the boat horn that it emits.

[Anonymous No.2798272]

>>2798232

Just get any vaper friends to start making sick clouds first to complete the experience

[Anonymous No.2798285]

>>2798232
I love my flat 29", it's in a nearly pristine state and has very few geometry issues. But it's a bit too big for my room.
I need something like a 24/25" so I could stack it on my newly acquired BVM.

[Anonymous No.2798339]

>>2798053
>>2798053
>>2798053

new thread

[Anonymous No.2798379]

>>2798339

Are you seriously trying to thread war on /vr/?

[Anonymous No.2798383]

>>2798339
Please dont start thread war.

This one has all of the proper info in OP's post as well as the pastebins and survey.

[Anonymous No.2798387]

>>2798339
>has no OP info
>was created +6 hours later
no

[Anonymous No.2798475]

>waiting for my pvm to ship

[Anonymous No.2798478]

>>2798339
Literally why?

[Anonymous No.2798495]

>>2798053
>>2798053

real thread here

[Anonymous No.2798508]

>>2798495

stop

[Anonymous No.2798524]

>>2798495
No, do please keep trying. You may eventually amuse someone.

[Anonymous No.2798564]

>>2798232
One of mine is very quiet when it starts up. Another one from the same product line sounds like someone banged on a gong.

[Anonymous No.2798578]

>>2798383
>pastebins and survey
I'm not the other guy trying to push his thread but lel

[Anonymous No.2798580]

>>2798578

What's your point? The other thread has less info in the OP and was made 6 hours after this one. It's just pointless thread warring from some autist.

[Anonymous No.2798597]

>>2798495
Not CRT-specific. Nice try.

>>2798564
That's the 'degaussing' sound. It's a good thing. It's probably resonating with the frame of the TV if it sounds really loud.

>>2787962 (from last thread)
Got that Umbreon now. Espeon's still my favorite though.

[Anonymous No.2798601]

>>2798597
I'm sure I'll level up Umbreon eventually.

[Anonymous No.2798614]

>>2798597
>That's the 'degaussing' sound. It's a good thing.
No offense, but I don't think there is anyone in these threads who would not know that.

[Anonymous No.2798628]

>>2798614
Not him, but you never know. I probably wouldn't have known at some point.

[Anonymous No.2798662]

>>2797829
of course there would be one for sale in fucking woodinville of all places.

[Anonymous No.2798674]

>>2798628
Sure, I just think these threads could survive a little less over-explaining of elementary stuff. It wears on you after a while.

One thing I'd keep in mind when posting here is "Did this person actually ask this question or am I just explaining shit for my own sake?" If someone doesn't get it, they'll ask eventually.

[Anonymous No.2798707]

>>2798614
Some people really don't. Like the guy who I responded to might not have because he never said 'degauss'.

>>2798674
>I DON'T LIKE IT WHEN PEOPLE LEARN THINGS I ALREADY KNOW
I was answering it as if it were a question because it wasn't clear if they knew. Sorry you have a problem with that.

[Anonymous No.2798734]

>>2798707
>capstroll
On the contrary I love it when people learn shit they don't know. But thread after thread of posts like yours are annoying as fuck, I'll just come out and say it. We shouldn't assume ignorance around here; is that really the kind of thread you personally want to read and contribute to?

>I was answering it as if it were a question because it wasn't clear if they knew.
Yeah, that's part of the problem. Like I said, if someone doesn't get it, they'll ask eventually.

This isn't personal.

[Anonymous No.2798787]

>>2798734
A polite response to a not-overly-terse one. Some threads it can seem like every second post is a pic sans description saying "is this a good CRT?" but in other cases people generally get around to asking. I salute you, sir.

[Anonymous No.2798802]

>>2798787
I have issue with "is this a good CRT?" with no additional information or links to specs given.

However, I don't get why telling someone what degaussing is is a bad thing. It's as irritating for me to write out for the umpteenth time as it is for you to read, but I am genuinely trying to clear up any possible confusion, because there is a lot misunderstood about CRT's.

[Anonymous No.2798807]

>>2798802
Not him, but it's not that it's really much of a problem, we're just trying to streamline the thread :)

[Anonymous No.2798808]

Eh, let's get drop this and get the thread going again. Sorry for my micro-rant, it's been more distracting than what I'm complaining about.

Has anyone every read this, or know where I can get an electronic copy?

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Displays-Tutorial-Optical-Engineering/dp/0819441449

I've read small previews of the contents and it seems interesting. It's from 2003 so one would hope it covers early HD as well.

[Anonymous No.2798817]

Just gonna post my schematic for RGB out of the SNES via RCA jacks from last thread.

If you don't want to use the SCART cables for whatever reason, the capacitors are necessary. This is because the SCART cable held them internally to cut down the RGB signal levels. Otherwise they are way too bright. The pins on the left are the AV out port pins, R is pin 1, G is pin 2, the top left corner is pin 12, the bottom left is pin 11.

This is how I get RGB from my SNES because I'm not going to get two expensive cables imported when I have very nice component cables here that are color-coded properly for RGB, and RCA to BNC adapters.

[Anonymous No.2798820]

>>2798817
>forgot pic
dammit.

[Anonymous No.2798828]

sup.


3x fw900
dell p1110
lacie 22 blue

Went there for the fw900's, the dude was cool as fuck and let me have the lacie and dell for free.

[Anonymous No.2798829]

>>2798820
I did something similar to this and just want to point out more explicitly that those capacitors are polarized.

Updated the schematic for you so people are totally aware and don't have to look up capacitor markings. Also added the pin numbers.

[Anonymous No.2798830]

>>2798828
Man, I thought my free 20L5 was good.

You may have just blown me out of the water... Can I get one of the FW900's off of you?

I am very very jealous.

[Anonymous No.2798836]

[Anonymous No.2798838]

>>2798828
yee

[Anonymous No.2798854]

>>2798829
>>2798820
Is that font hand-drawn? I like it.

[Anonymous No.2798859]

>>2798475
Cool! Which one are you getting?
>me when using PVM

[Anonymous No.2798867]

>>2798854
Yeah, hand-drawn because I didn't feel like looking for a font that looks good when 6 pixels high.

>Krikzz STILL hasn't fixed Fire Emblem on the EDN8

[Anonymous No.2798871]

>>2798524
Is that a BVM?

[Anonymous No.2798881]

>>2798871
はい。 BVM-D20F1U.

Part of a dual monitor setup. The 2nd is an older 14F5U that had some damage to the left rack-mount handle. Sheared 2 of 3 out of the mounting screws for it in half during shipping somehow and bent the bottom left corner. Very minor burn-in as well. I have yet to properly relocate these in the room it currently occupies however, so photography hasn't been particularly high on my list, unfortunately.

[Anonymous No.2798898]

>>2798828
Holy shit

>>2798734
>We shouldn't assume ignorance around here
I agree. It can be a bit grating to have a conversation here when many people assume you know nothing.

[Anonymous No.2798913]

>>2798881
Cool.

Also, what camera is that?
I'm looking for a new/used one that beats my point-n-shoot.

[Anonymous No.2798919]

>>2798859

It's a 20L2

I really wanted something with s-video input so this seems to fit me perfectly.

[Anonymous No.2798921]

>>2798919
Sweet!
I've got the 20L5, which AFAIK looks about the same for 240p/480i content. If so, you're in for a treat! Congrats, and welcome to the club!

[Anonymous No.2798923]

>>2798913
Fujifilm S8200. Works quite well but I need to get a tripod for it. Don't remember if it can do 1/30 video capture but it does auto adjust aperture down to ISO400 with a manual shutter of 1/30.

[Anonymous No.2798929]

>>2798923
Cool. I'll add that to the list of DSLR's I'll scout for used.

[Anonymous No.2798938]

Bump limit reached guys!
NEW THREAD

>>2798053
>>2798053
>>2798053
>>2798053

[Anonymous No.2798952]

>>2798929
It's not a DSLR.

[Anonymous No.2798965]

>>2798938
You are not fooling anypony.

[Anonymous No.2798967]

>>2798923

What camera settings work best generally?

[Anonymous No.2798974]

Posted it in the other thread.
I like this type of TV, every time I see one I get it for my games nights mind, as it has all the inputs I need and all buttons I need on its CP,

Also
>Bush

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2798980]

>>2798817
>the capacitors are necessary. This is because the SCART cable held them internally to cut down the RGB signal levels. Otherwise they are way too bright.
The capacitors remove the DC offset from the RGB lines, which can cause some problems when fed directly to some TVs/monitors. They (should) have essentially no effect on screen brightness.

It's the resistors in cables for the Genesis and the like that are used to bring brightness down.

>>2798828
Jelly doesn't begin to describe it,

[Anonymous No.2798981]

>>2798965
>anypony

Fucking disgusting degenerate
i bet you are a lard ass neckbeard

[Anonymous No.2798996]

>>2798938
We're laughing at you, puny threadwarrior.

[Anonymous No.2799006]

>>2798828
shit how much $$$?

[Anonymous No.2799007]

>>2798980
On mine the problem was with automatic gain adjusment circuitry. E.G. it was too bright.

[Anonymous No.2799008]

>>2798974

dude it's going to fall off your desk and put a hole in the floor

[Anonymous No.2799015]

>>2798981
I was about to take satisfaction in a successful troll, but it turns out that it was just to easy.

[Anonymous No.2799019]

>>2799008
I'm not the one who had the CRT, but I don't think you know how balance works.

[Anonymous No.2799023]

[Anonymous No.2799026]

>>2799023

Is that the fishing rpg?

[Anonymous No.2799027]

>>2799026
Shigesato Itoi's Bass Fishing? No.

[Anonymous No.2799031]

>>2799026
You mean Ocarina of Time? What are you smoking?

[Anonymous No.2799037]

>>2799027
川のぬし釣り

[Anonymous No.2799074]

>>2799007
>>2798980
Without the caps for DC offset, the N64 will be too bright, as will the PS1. I'd imagine its the same for other systems. Some LCDs can correct for that.

Check out eviltim's scart cable diagrams, noting what he says about the PS1. Eviltim is wiser than us all.

[Anonymous No.2799083]

>>2799074
mikejmoffitt, who modded RGB inputs onto a consumer US TV, doesn't use SCART at all and is wiser than us all.

[Anonymous No.2799084]

>>2799083
(he uses VGA-style HD15 connectors)

[Anonymous No.2799087]

Why do so many americans here insist on SCART, anyway? It's not like their PVM's can handle SCART without chaining cables together.

[Anonymous No.2799089]

>>2799084
Different plug? He'll still use the caps in each video line.

[Anonymous No.2799096]

>>2799087
Ubiquity?
SCART stuff is easy to find within the context of consoles.

It's easier to find a SCART cable for your SNES and buy a BNC breakout than it is to build a SNES>BNC cable.

[Anonymous No.2799098]

>>2799087

Easy to get native, 1st party cables for all consoles. Get a single custom RGB > SCART from RetroGamingCables and then you can use mass produced cables for everything else.

[Anonymous No.2799109]

>>2799089
He put them inside the console, not in the VGA connector. He's not afraid to drill holes.

"I mounted an HDB-15 port (that’s VGA!) to the back to feed it RGB. I use this for all of my RGB stuff since the cables are well shielded and easy to get for cheap. I use a VGA switchbox for source selection. For the curious, I wire RGB to pins 1, 2, and 3, ground pins 4-8, and put the composite sync signal on pin 13 (normally H-Sync)."
http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=284
>>2799096
>ubiquity
It's ubiquitous if it's used everywhere. SCART is basically exclusive to europe.
>SNES>BNC
heh. You're funny. See pic.

>>2799098
Or do something like this and don't import expensive cables from halfway across the world and wait on shipping when you have a PVM in front of you.

These adapters are available cheap and locally where I live (an ex-radioshack manager bought up radioshack's stock when they moved out of my area and he set up a DIY electronics shop), and this makes it easy to get RGB from my SNES without waiting on expensive bullshit cables from the UK to get to me.

[Anonymous No.2799143]

I have a chance between a Sony PVM 20L1 S-Video only or a PVM-14M2U. What should I chose if I mostly use S-Video for everything outside of PS2? Also are the "in" and "out" behind PVMs mean that I can have 2 S-Video systems hooked up?

[Anonymous No.2799146]

>>2799143

No, video out is video output. You'd hook that up to another monitor or a DVR

[Anonymous No.2799156]

>>2799096
Define "easier". Besides which, bu imaging is way more fun.

[Anonymous No.2799173]

I hope this Nintendo Brand Nintendo s video cable for Nintendo Brand consoles is worth it

[Anonymous No.2799174]

>>2799109
He'll still use caps in the lines.

A line is not a cable, though a cable may be part or all of a line. Make sense now?

[Anonymous No.2799197]

>>2799143
If you are okay with a smaller screen, definitely take the 14M2U. RGB is very very nice to have.

That said, SNES S-Video looks outstanding on my 20L5 which accepts RGB - in fact, it looks almost identical to RGB. You'd be okay with s-video in that case.

But I'd really go for the 14M2U with the extra format support, and get the 20L1 if you feel like getting two monitors. RGB is a must IMO for the flexibility it offers.
But if you only ever plan on using S-Video, then go ahead and get the 20L1.

[Anonymous No.2799203]

>>2799174
Yes, my point is that he will have put them inside his console because that's the sensible thing to do.

[Anonymous No.2799205]

>>2799173
A word of warning, it won't work with an AV famicom despite it using the same multi-AV out connector. That's a composite only system.

Not sure if you have an AV famicom, just throwing it out there.

[Anonymous No.2799209]

>>2799205

Yeah I know famicoms are a whole deal on their own. Kind of made me shy away from the system.

[Anonymous No.2799216]

>>2799209
whaat? why?
Famicom's rock! I am fine with composite from them on my PVM.

[Anonymous No.2799242]

>>2799216
not enough waifus in 8bit man

[Anonymous No.2799248]

>>2799197
cool cause I already have a Trinitron screen for component PS2

[Anonymous No.2799256]

>>2799248
is yoshi masturbating

[Anonymous No.2799305]

>>2799256
Harder than Kermit.

>>2799109
>He put them inside the console, not in the VGA connector
I don't follow. I never said anyone put them inside or outside the console, let alone in a/the VGA backshell. What did you reply like that for?

[Anonymous No.2799314]

Anyone have some genesis/mega drive games on a PVM? I'm trying to justify going full sega

[Anonymous No.2799351]

>>2799109
The ability to use a VGA switchbox seems nice. Problem with SCART is the switchboxes are both expensive and shit, while you can get an old KVM switch for really cheap (no-one wants the ones with PS/2 anymore, for instance). I say this coming from a resident in SCART-land even.

[Anonymous No.2799390]

>>2798830
Nah b, need all three for this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FScNdwuIm64

>>2799006

$300 Canadian dollaroos for everything. One of the fw900 is completely mint but sadly has an intermittent short but I've got to try it out see how bad it is and how often. I figure $150 ea for the two perfectly working ones is a good deal since you never fucking see these things here locally and believe me I've looked.

[Anonymous No.2799409]

>>2799314
on a 14m2, if i have time tonight i'l grab some shots on my d20f1u

bit of moire but i think it's a great shot.

[Anonymous No.2799414]

>>2799390
>$300 Canadian dollaroos for everything

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2799491]

>>2799314

[Anonymous No.2799553]

>>2799314

[Anonymous No.2799575]

>>2799414
>Canadian Dollars
As your amerifag neighbor, I suggest you take a few step backs and evaluate where you might've made your first mistake. Though to be honest, you could have it worse. I'd be thankful you're not trying to buy with Yuan, AU$, etc.

[Anonymous No.2799628]

>>2799575
Forgot to mention. Good deal he got there, regardless (as long as he figures out that intermittent issue).

[Anonymous No.2799745]

>>2798836

want

[Anonymous No.2799770]

>tfw just ordered in 6 5" PVMs just for the fun of it

WHO /COLLECTING PVMS/ HERE

[Anonymous No.2799795]

>>2799008
Its been sorted since, doing a bit of rearranging in the mean time, trying to top those "ULTIMATE GAMER" set ups that have a very high up LCD no CRT and a load of dupe systems, LCD has gone up higher since and TV
moved under

[Anonymous No.2799868]

Could I use some BNC to VGA cables to get a PVM-14M2U as a 2nd monitor in 640x480 on modern hardware (GTX760 with DVI to vga) or do I need an earlier graphics card to pull something that crazy off.

[Anonymous No.2799876]

>>2799770
>tfw you'll never have a mini tv wall
Why live?

[Anonymous No.2799915]

I *might* get my hands on a KV25C5 tomorrow.
The size would be perfect for my room (would replace that hueg flat 29" trini)

[Anonymous No.2799938]

>>2799868
If that model PVM can sync to a 31KHz horizontal refresh rate, then yes, you shouldn't have a problem. It's outputting 15KHz from modern PCs that becomes a very problematic issue.

Just be sure the cable adapter you get pushes horizontal and vertical sync together for CSync (unless you're planning on running HSync and Vsync through a separate "proper" sync combiner first). I don't remember if DVI Analog to VGA does anything different to the signal than native VGA but I don't think it should cause any problems.

[Anonymous No.2799939]

I've got my eye on a Sony PVM-1354Q to replace my generic brand 13" CRT that has a nice big scratch in the middle of the screen, and I'd be using an N64, PS2, Saturn, Xbox, and Wii (mainly just for emulation) on it. Is it worth picking up?

If yes, is it worth $250?

Keep in mind that throughout my life, I've only ever seen low quality CRT screens with either Composite or RF input, and I don't even know what S-Video looks like, let alone RGB.

I also guess this goes without saying, but an overwhelming majority of my gaming is done on that 13" CRT.

[Anonymous No.2799945]

>>2799868
>>2799938
Yeah, I couldn't find anything stating if your monitor is capable of multiformat so if it doesn't have that branding on the front bezel, you likely cannot sync above 15KHz.

[Anonymous No.2799951]

>>2799939
>If yes, is it worth $250
Jesus Christ I paid $35 for mine, burn it all down folks it's over.

That said it's a great small monitor. If it's in good condition it'll be leaps and bounds ahead of what you're used to.

[Anonymous No.2799952]

>>2799628

I would've paid $300 for one good working fw900 since thats the going rate online before shipping, and pretty sure theres a guy on hardforum who sells calibrated ones for over a grand or something so pretty happy to get at least 2 for that price, think the last one I saw on kijiji (our craigslist) went for $300+ and It was over 200km away so I said fuck that. Also spotted a Sony KVHR36 at the sellers place and he had a pretty insane crt projection setup for movies.

[Anonymous No.2799954]

>>2799939
250 is way too much for a 14", and you have to account hours.
just try to start with a cheap sony tv with a s-video (assuming you're in NA). Will do the job way cheaper while you wait for a more affordable PVM/BVM to pop up.

[Anonymous No.2799961]

>>2799951
I should have been more clear about the price. $250 CAD, not USD, and I live in Newfoundland. Buying online is my only shot at this, unfortunately. Should I still go for it?

[Anonymous No.2799967]

>>2799961
If it's at all possible try to talk them down. I love mine to death but I wouldn't pay more than $100 shipped if you absolutely must have a PVM.

[Anonymous No.2799972]

>>2799961
I would pass since its a total gamble on the picture etc, take that $250 and put it towards an xrgb mini thats guaranteed to give an amazing picture or get crt set with component locally and a clone csy2100

[Anonymous No.2799978]

>>2799951
>>2799954
>>2799967
>>2799972
Thanks guys, I'll hold off on it for now

[Anonymous No.2799987]

>>2799961
Eh...Still pretty high. Maybe if it were AUD, but yeah.

[Anonymous No.2800027]

>>2799987
Even for aud that's far too much. $50-$100 max.

>>2799868
That set is 15 kHz only. Look into powerstrip and CRU and decide how much work you want to do - it * might* be possible to use it with your 760. Or use Linux.

crt_emudriver is easiest, but needs an older radeon card. You could think about adding one in.

[Undesired Life No.2800148]

Anyone know the average going price range for a BVM-D24E1WU? The one im looking at has 21k hours on it.

[Anonymous No.2800158]

>>2800148
$250+ and rising from what I've seen.

[Undesired Life No.2800161]

>>2800158
Where did did you did you find one for $250?!?! Or anything close to that the cheapest ive seen is close to $1000

[Anonymous No.2800167]

>>2800161
Damn. Must've risen up quickly last time I've seen the price on other sites.

[Undesired Life No.2800172]

>>2800167
Yeah... I talked one guy down to $850 but id feel like an idiot if i found one a moth later for half that.

Im calling a bunch of local newstations tomorrow to see if they have anything lying around. If I can get even a smaller version of the d24 id be happy or similar pvm etc. Just need one that can do 480p 720p

[Anonymous No.2800196]

>>2799795

[Anonymous No.2800204]

>>2799939

A PVM is worth it over other small TVs solely for being a nice, compact CRT with handles and a boxy body that you can stack shit on. RGB and S-Video are just the cherry on top.

$250 is too much tho.

[Anonymous No.2800232]

>>2799952
My memeface earlier was in response to your incredible deal. Not sure what >>2799575 is going on about.

[Anonymous No.2800294]

>>2799628
>>2799938

That looks really nice. Is your NES/FC modded?

[Anonymous No.2800315]

How probable is it that I'll run into the vertical lines/checkered pattern on my SNES/N64/GC with OEM S-video cables? Does this happen often, or is it usually with 3rd party cables?

[Anonymous No.2800353]

>>2800294
Judging by the incorrect color palette, I'd assume it's been RGB modded.

[Anonymous No.2800354]

>>2800315
Not very probable. The problem is mostly with cheap svideo cables.

[Anonymous No.2800370]

>>2800354
ALright, great. Thanks for the reply

[Anonymous No.2800376]

So, Conrac still makes a 14-inch CRT that can handle between 15khz and 40khz RGB signals.

Wonder what they want for them.

http://www.conrac.us/color.htm

[Anonymous No.2800380]

HDMI GameCube, published today. What is this thing? Will Smashers soon be using this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HVYXpli7XM

[Anonymous No.2800386]

>>2800380
No because HDMI=lag

[Anonymous No.2800415]

>>2800386

I would assume that this is a lagless system, similar to the new "Ultra HDMI" mod for N64...

[Anonymous No.2800423]

>>2800380

"smashers" have severe autism so no

[Anonymous No.2800434]

>>2800294
>>2800353
Both wrong. Own an NES Frontloader but it's currently non-functional. The screenshots are from Rockman Complete Works VI for the Playstation 1.

I'd be very surprised if Capcom didn't represent the color pallete correctly because they typically do phenomenal jobs with their emulations/ports (Last I checked, we still can't even get MvC2 to accurately emulate in MAME and they did it back on the PS2)

GG.

[Anonymous No.2800438]

>Everybody's got Trinitrons or BVM's
>Look at my CRT
>Zenith
Fuck me...

[Anonymous No.2800440]

>>2800438

Just upgrade mang, I couldn't deal with the sanyo I pulled out of a basement anymore

[Anonymous No.2800452]

>>2800440
So where's the best place to look? Goodwill won't even take CRTs where I live anymore, and rummages aren't consistent enough up here in Wisconsin.

[Anonymous No.2800457]

>>2800415
Only lagless if you have a theoretical CRT that does zero processing and somehow still displays a signal.

[Anonymous No.2800458]

>>2800452

Craigslist, garage sales, flea markets, going out of business sales.

You can just get one shipped too, they're more expensive but much less than a good modern TV or about the same as a decent PC monitor

[Anonymous No.2800461]

>>2800434
No one can accurately get NES colors because they are encoded in a different color space and all TV's display YUV/YIQ differently.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2800465]

>>2800380
As stated in the video and the review linked in the description, it's just an applied version of something that came out a year ago.
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=51450

[Anonymous No.2800468]

>>2800458
Thanks Anon, I'll have to start looking more locally then.

[Undesired Life No.2800474]

>>2800468
You could also try calling your local newstation(s) or any local broadcast stations and see if they have anything theyre looking to get rid of.

[Anonymous No.2800475]

>>2800468

Yeah people still have luck with dealing locally. I didn't find anything I really wanted so I just said screw it and ordered one off ebay. I'm not a patient person

[Anonymous No.2800487]

>>2800475
What'd you end up getting, if I may ask Anon?

[Anonymous No.2800489]

>>2800487
pvm 20

it should be here by thursday

[Anonymous No.2800491]

>>2800489
PVM 20 isn't a model number.
20 inches maybe, but there are multiple PVM models.

[Anonymous No.2800495]

>>2800491

You didn't ask for a specific model number

[Anonymous No.2800502]

>>2800495
mmk, and now I am. What model number?

[Anonymous No.2800504]

>>2800495
You are correct, I didn't ask for a model. Other Anon is not me.

[Anonymous No.2800583]

Is there anywhere online to buy a CRT besides eBay?

[Anonymous No.2800617]

>>2800583
http://www.conrac.us/color.htm apparently

Also craigslist

[Anonymous No.2800716]

>>2800583
Some Charity shops still got them, or you could try your luck on various free sites

[Anonymous No.2800808]

>>2800380
Unless a lagless HDMI-compatible display materializes out of thin air, I highly doubt it.

FED Monitors when? skeleton.png

[Anonymous No.2800846]

>>2800808

The Ultra HDMI N64 chip is claiming to be lagless or nearly lagless. Thoughts?

> the most important aspect to the Ultra HDMI is that it promises a zero-delay signal with less than 100 nanoseconds of lag when no filters are added to the output.

http://www.retrocollect.com/News/retroactives-ultra-hdmi-nintendo-64-adapter-coming-soon.html

>>2800623

[Anonymous No.2800920]

>>2800846
What's the point of HDMI, anyways? Just to have it hook up to a modern display more easily? You still have every problem that comes with connecting a N64 to a modern TV.

[Anonymous No.2800987]

>>2800502

PVM-20L2

I just checked the tracking number and it should show up TODAY

[Anonymous No.2800995]

>>2800846
depending on your display the display itself can lag things up (typical of flat panels). but if you get the total lag less than 10 ms it's as good as non-existent for me, anyway.

[Anonymous No.2801014]

How do I I get proper color and screen size from my pvm? Picked one up and all the advanced setting have been fucked with.

[Anonymous No.2801015]

Anyone who's used both a 1chip and a modded mini have any input?

The RGB modded mini looks almost too bright to me but I'm not sure how it is on an actual decent display

[Anonymous No.2801016]

So with renewed interest in CRTs, what are the chances of a niche company picking up Sony's lapsing aperture grille patent and producing new HR SD monitors?

I'd pay up to $1000 for a CRT with a new tube and 480p compatibility.

[Anonymous No.2801020]

>>2801016

Basically zero

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2801030]

>>2801015
1CHIP and Mini are using the exact same hardware, except with different board layouts.

Any difference in brightness would likely come down to how the latter was modded to reenable RGB output. The same site that's from has information on doing exactly that.
http://www.retrorgb.com/snesminirgbmod.html

>>2801016
>I'd pay up to $1000 for a CRT with a new tube and 480p compatibility.
You missed a zero.

[Anonymous No.2801031]

>>2801016
>480p
I might be able to scrounge up a sealed-in-box Sony or Mitsubishi VGA monitor for you, and I'd even throw in a component transcoder.

Thanks in advance for the $1000 anon! :^)

[Anonymous No.2801038]

Anyone know anything about adding composite ports to a TV that only has a coaxial port? The tv shell and main board have what looks like a spot for it to be soldered in but just wasn't. I could try getting a small RF modulator and shoving it inside but I want it to look nice since the crt is transparent anyways. Maybe I need to share some pictures..

[Anonymous No.2801078]

>>2801038
>clear
>rf only
did you pick up a prison tv?

[Anonymous No.2801081]

>>2801078
I did! Saw it at my local goodwill with no price tag and got it for ten bucks on an offer. I want to slap in enough led's to have this thing glowing to the point of not seeing the innards. But first I need to make it even usable and give it at least composite.

It's gonna be the sexiest tv at any tournament I tell ya whut.

[Anonymous No.2801089]

>>2801081
lel, nice

[Anonymous No.2801091]

>>2801089

That looks pretty cool

[Anonymous No.2801093]

>>2801089
Heeyyyy, das it mayne. I was trying to find a nice sized image of this model, J13805CL, but couldn't find shit on google images.

RF only, and I'd prefer not to use a modulator to get composite on it. Eventually it's gonna light up light a fuckin' Christmas tree.

[Anonymous No.2801109]

>>2801093
I wonder if modding it for RGB wouldn't actually be easier. Composite has to be decoded anyway.

This might be helpful if you consider that option possible:
http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=284

[Anonymous No.2801112]

>>2801020
>>2801030
>>2801031
So the technology at this point is pretty much dead then?
That sucks. Once my trinitrons blow I'm pretty much fucked.

[Anonymous No.2801114]

>>2801109
Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have RGB on it too but I don't really have anything that uses it. I've got 15+ other CRT's that I bring to Melee tournaments and this is the only one I have that doesn't have at least composite, making it nearly useless for anyone trying to hook up their Gamecube or Wii to it.

[Anonymous No.2801117]

>>2801112

People are still finding NIB apple IIs and shit. We'll be fine.

I'm sure there will be a better solution once the supply actually dries up in another 30 years

[Anonymous No.2801125]

>>2801114
Maybe see if you can tap into composite and line audio input after the tuner, dunno. If for some reason there's a chip that can take other signal types like s-video in there, you could use that instead.

[Anonymous No.2801138]

>>2801125
>Maybe see if you can tap into composite and line audio input after the tuner
You're talking about this part, right?

I took picturesssss, brace for potato

[Anonymous No.2801140]

>>2801138

[Anonymous No.2801142]

>>2801140

[Anonymous No.2801145]

>>2801142
It's like they specifically didn't want to put in more ports. DAMN THEIR CHEAPNESS

[Anonymous No.2801146]

>>2801145
das it for now

[Anonymous No.2801275]

>>2801142
ooh la la, digital tuner

>>2801145
probably kept it simple intentionally, fewer metal parts for inmates to scavenge

[Anonymous No.2801474]

>>2801081

That prison TV is awesome, please don't put stupid LEDs inside.

[Anonymous No.2801476]

>>2801114

Post how you store 15+ CRTs, I want to see.

[Anonymous No.2801487]

>>2801145

There's assumedly a non-clear model of this exact TV that has composite and maybe S-Video. It's probably about $2 on ebay. Buy one, then swap the internals.

[Anonymous No.2801501]

>>2801014
Anyone?

[Anonymous No.2801772]

>got my pvm today
>can't use it until my cables come in

[Undesired Life No.2801986]

>>2801772
I know that feel

[Anonymous No.2802173]

So I bought a DSLR for reasons unknown two nights ago at 3:00 am.
Gonna be taking some nicer shots of my 14l5 sooner or later once the damn thing gets here.

[Anonymous No.2802204]

>>2801772
I was fortunate to have an S-Video cable on hand when I got my first PVM, so I could at least hook it up by that. Was half-dissappointing though compared to what RGB looks like on it.

[Anonymous No.2802208]

>>2802204

I tried s-video from my saturn but I just get the no sync message

[Anonymous No.2802217]

>>2802208

Also, is the screen supposed to be "jittery" if I don't have anything hooked up to it? I'm kind of worried it was overly damaged during shipping

[Anonymous No.2802219]

>>2802217
>is the screen supposed to be "jittery" if I don't have anything hooked up to it?
You mean the OSD? Yes

[Anonymous No.2802221]

>>2802217
yeah, that's what the OSD looks like when it doesn't have any sync

[Anonymous No.2802228]

>>2802219
>>2802221

Ok then, it seems to have a small crack in the top right corner of the plastic from UPS exclusively hiring retards but the screen seems fine.

The only other thing is it's missing this circled thing on the back and instead there's 2 blank pieces like the one on the right. That's not important is it?

[Anonymous No.2802231]

Have some old and not very good shots of my PVM-14N2E. I've called it a PVM-14L2 in previous posts, but I just checked the back of it and saw that I've been wrong all along, derp... (I'm the guy with PVM-14L4 + PVM-14N2E (not 14L2) that is always mad jelly at all the 14L5 owners who get 480p and HD)

[Anonymous No.2802236]

>>2802231

>>2802228
That's an expansion card, it gives more inputs/other kinds of inputs. It's not neccesary. Sometimes the only way to get HD inputs is through expansion cards anyway. Sometimes you can get SDI on them too, but I don't think any of us here use SDI anyway.

[Anonymous No.2802241]

>>2802236
the filenames say 2009 but they're actually from 2013 or early 2014 or something like that.

[Anonymous No.2802245]

>>2802208
>I tried s-video from my saturn but I just get the no sync message

I'm not sure if this applies to s-video, but is there a setting on the front for external sync? If it's on, that might be the problem.

[Anonymous No.2802250]

>>2802236
>That's an expansion card

Alright, maybe I'll ask the seller if they can send me it anyway seeing as it was pictured after all. But it's nice to know it's not critical

[Anonymous No.2802267]

>>2802245

Yeah I tried flipping that on and off but it didn't work. It would appear I need to do the whole scart to BNC thing. Kind of a pain in the ass but w/e I'm already in it now

[Anonymous No.2802586]

>>2802228

Did you think the extra ports were on it when you bought it? That's a ~$100 piece of kit, likely, so kind of sucks if they stole it before shipping. Lets you add a second RGB input.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2802595]

>>2802208
>I tried s-video from my saturn but I just get the no sync message
Is it possible you have it on the wrong input, or perhaps you have to go into the menus to choose whether to look for S-Video or Composite for that specific input?
I don't have any experience with the L-series, so I'm not sure how different they operate in comparison to the M-series' menus/input selection.

[Anonymous No.2802747]

>>2800846
It may be possible to output HDMI near laglessly, but it is not for an LCD to laglessly process and display.

[Anonymous No.2802749]

>>2801030
Here, new tube and 480p. You will have to contact them to ask for pricing though.
http://www.conrac.us/color.htm

[Anonymous No.2802751]

>>2802595

Well there's only 1 s-video in and s-video out labeled Line A and switching to and from Line A via the buttons on the front don't do anything useful. I didn't see any menu options for specific inputs other than RGB/Component for the RGB/Component line.

>>2802586

Yeah man it was pictured in the description and it wasn't a stock photo. They went out of their way to say it didn't come with a power cable so I have to imagine if it wasn't supposed to come with the expansion card they would have said that.

Hopefully they can give me at least a partial refund for that and doing a shitty packing job (thin styro and a "box" that was just taped together cardboard panels) that provided no protection to the corners.

[Anonymous No.2802753]

>>2801772
>not doing this

[Anonymous No.2802756]

>>2801501
read service manual, find default values

[Anonymous No.2802757]

>>2802753

That'd still require cables I don't have just laying around

[Anonymous No.2802758]

>>2802757
>not having RCA cables and a local hobby store that sells BNC -> RCA adapters

Jesus christ, I live in Indiana and I've got this shit. What third world area are you in?

[Anonymous No.2802759]

so got hold of a KV25C5B, it is indeed the perfect size for my room, but it has a lot of hours and it shows. Display is slightly blurry (could only get it a bit better with focus pot) and there's some little vertical wavelets.
One thing for sure tho, geometry is far less troubled than on flat screens. It was pretty much perfect out of the box.

[Anonymous No.2802760]

>>2802757
>>2802758
p.s. you do realize you can use red/white/yellow RCA cables just fine, right? It's still just shielded copper.

[Anonymous No.2802764]

>>2802758

Yes fuck me for not having random adapters just laying around my house and creepy tv repair hobby shops open at 4AM

[Anonymous No.2802765]

>>2802758
I've always just bought BNC->RCA adapters on the net. The ones I can buy locally are the exact same thing but have ten times the price if not twenty.

[Anonymous No.2802892]

>>2802764
No, just general purpose hobby shops. Like radio shack was. And no, they aren't open at 4 AM. However, waiting 4 hours < waiting two weeks.

[Anonymous No.2802893]

>>2802765
This is for the sake of getting things quickly. He was waiting on shipping and I was showing how I avoided ever waiting for shipping.

[Anonymous No.2802907]

>>2799351
>The ability to use a VGA switchbox seems nice. Problem with SCART is the switchboxes are both expensive and shit, while you can get an old KVM switch for really cheap (no-one wants the ones with PS/2 anymore, for instance). I say this coming from a resident in SCART-land even.

Yeah, that's a great thing. And if you want to get clever you can route audio through the PS/2 (or AT/XT keyboard) connector (it's a 6-pin mini-DIN for PS/2 or a 5-pin DIN, not mini, for AT/XT).

I got a free AT KVM just cleaning out a back room at work.

[Anonymous No.2802916]

>>2802892

Well all I have is s video cables so I don't have much of a choice but wait.

[Anonymous No.2802947]

>>2802916
yes, because it is impossible to do what I did for RGB. See top right corner of >>2802753 .

[Anonymous No.2803072]

>>2802907
Couldn't you just route audio through two of the unused HDB-15 pins? I mean I guess you're only using 4 pins for RGBS (respective RGB pins plus either of H or V for S). I guess you'd be able to use a separate cable for less buzz though if you used the PS/2 or AT/XT port.

[Anonymous No.2803437]

Going to check out some jvc monitors tomorrow.
I was wondering what people usually use as a video source to test them out. I found a tv test pattern iso and burned it to a dvd. But testing on my crt neither of the av cables that i have for my ps2 can output a clean enough signal for testing. I also have a snes with an equally crappy av cable. Can I get away with testing with one of these systems? I mean I will be able to notice pic related, but i'm afraid i might miss more subtle convergence issues.

[Anonymous No.2803463]

>>2802751

In there a "Line A" composite video BNC port on the back? If so, that version of Line A is likely active. It sounds like you need to switch to S-Video in a menu.

[Anonymous No.2803464]

>>2802747

So, if the chips work correctly, this would result in SSB64 and SSBM having *the same* lag as SSB4, correct? I wonder if that will be sufficient.

[Anonymous No.2803467]

>>2802947

No one wants to drill holes in their SNES when RGB works perfectly via the multi-out.

[Anonymous No.2803479]

Somebody please tell me that $250 for a PVM-14L5 is way too much money so I stop thinking about picking it up.

[Anonymous No.2803519]

>>2803479
Do you need the multiformat capabilities?

[Anonymous No.2803523]

>>2803463

No option for that unless there's a different menu via the remote I don't have

[Anonymous No.2803552]

>>2803519
I mean it certainly would be nice. A the moment I was planning on playing games 640p and up on my sony gdm-f500 21 inch computer monitor. I has some nice bnc inputs on the back and supports rgb h/v and rgb sync on green + vga obviously for dreamcast and the 5 ps2 games that support it. I has a max resolution of 1800x1440 tho so no 1080 signals. Gotta keep my eye out for one of those Lacie Electron22Blue monitors. Im thinking that the 14 inch pvm would be al lil on the small side for 1080 anyways.

[Anonymous No.2803579]

>>2803479
If its in good condition I'd guess thats a "fair" price.

They're like $350+ on ebay. I got mine for way lower than that though. But between my 20L2 and my 14L5, I chooise the 14L5 as my 20L2 is in storage.

[Anonymous No.2803605]

>>2803479

Fair price for the best 14" retro gaming TV. Grab it before someone else does.

[Anonymous No.2803648]

>>2803579
>>2803605
Ugh you two aren't helping me at all. Its that pvm from 2001 or a 2006 JVC TM-H150CG with s-video/composite only for $50. I know its not anywhere near as versatile, but I am pretty sure I am going to be happy with the quality of s-video (and It will save me spending 200+ dollars on a bunch of rgb scart connectors and a bnc adapter.) But there is no way ill be able to track down the rgb input card for the JVC and I dont want to end up feeling like I half assed it. Then again for only 50 bux it's not like i cant grab a pvm down the line. Ill make sure to post the listing on here for fellow MA anons once I pick up what i want.

[Anonymous No.2803696]

>>2802751
If it was ebay or at least PayPal you can guarantee part of your money back. Don't scam then, but the item was damaged, and not exactly as pictured. You're entitled to a partial refund.

[Anonymous No.2803709]

>>2803437
240p suite for the Wii would be just the thing.

[Anonymous No.2803742]

>>2803696
>Don't scam then

Not planning to, I'd just like the expansion card that was supposed to be included. I sent a message asking them to send it to me but they haven't gotten back to me yet.

It's a relatively high volume company on ebay with a good rating so I have to imagine they'll at least try to be fair.

[Anonymous No.2803774]

>>2799939
>PVM-1354Q to replace my generic brand 13" CRT
>Is it worth picking up?
A PVM is really just a normal CRT with few (if any) geometry issues and a better interface for color/brightness/contrast control. The ability to put it in underscan can be nice since it'll probably be the only time you'll see the "whole" game outside of an emulator. Also, Aperature Grille looks a lot better IMO than Shadowmask.
But really, if you can get a consumer trinitron you won't be missing out on much, and can save quite a bit of money.
>If yes, is it worth $250?
fuck no. check craigslist for your local major city, I guarantee you you'll find something at a good price. I spent $70 for a 14" last month that has almost no hours (was in a church) and was made in 2004, and I still think I probably overpaid by about $10-20. If you were talking about a 27" or larger then maybe, but otherwise you should try to stay under $60 and never go over $100.
>I've only ever seen low quality CRT screens
If you're using composite/RF on a PVM, you'll be disappointed. All the images ITT are of people using RGB SCART or YPbPr (aka, component). If you plan to mod for those outputs, then you'll get a lot more use out of a PVM, but otherwise there's not much point.

[Anonymous No.2803778]

>>2803479
Go for it. My 20L5 rocks (was free, but that seems to be a rare occurrence in nature), and I can highly recommend the L5 series. $250 sounds like a decent enough price, though I'd try to make a lower offer before biting at $250. Something like $180-$200 or similarly low-ball.

[Anonymous No.2803798]

>>2803774
Just so you know,
>>2799216 is composite.

So is this.

Composite can look great on CRT's. RGB is better, don't get me wrong, but composite is NOT horrible, especially on the NES.

For 16 bit systems, though, S-video should be the minimum. RGB preferred.

>>2803437
Component video from my sony DVD player sufficed for my 20L5. Your TV looks like the yoke has sunk waaay back on the neck, or the purity rings are very loose. Not a pretty sight. Hope you can fix it - I've got a bit of CRT convergence experience and can help if you'd like.

If you need a better test pattern DVD I can supply one too. Just gotta find it.

>>2803467
>No one wants to drill holes in their SNES when RGB works perfectly via the multi-out.
Well, I obviously did. It works great and I didn't pay for expensive cables that can only be used on one console. Plus you don't need a second expensive cable because the first one only got you to SCART and you need to go to BNC.
Just standard RCA cables.

[Anonymous No.2803812]

>>2803798
Better exposure, uploaded wrong one.

[Anonymous No.2803926]

What do I do with these? Do I trade them for more peanut butter as pictured on the far right?

Also I need to wipe down these bezels with something less watery.

[Anonymous No.2803948]

>>2799770
Please show us pictures when they arrive. This could be glorious.

[Anonymous No.2803956]

>>2803948
>>2803926

I was gonna post all my PVMs with the vomiting dog because I really like posting the vomiting dog since the jannie shits his britches when he sees it but I don't feel like picking up a 20M4U and some 14" downstairs that I don't know the model number of while it rots in the corner of a closet.

[Anonymous No.2803962]

>>2803778

You are still obnoxious as fuck

[Anonymous No.2803963]

>>2803956
Just do it with all the 5":ers then.

[Anonymous No.2803969]

>>2803963
Right here dude
>>2803926


I have a splitter I can use downstairs when I feel like getting more cables to load a horrible game with.

[Anonymous No.2803971]

>>2803479
I got two L4's for less than that (same thing but no multiformat). Locally though. Sold off one off them to a mate.

Still, I'd probably pay that much if I had the chance to pick an L5 up...

[Anonymous No.2803975]

>>2803969
I meant with the vomiting dog, or something else on them.

[Anonymous No.2803976]

>>2803975
Oh my mistake, I think I can make that work, I'll get back to it in a few weeks when I'm less busy.

[Anonymous No.2803981]

>>2803552
>640p
480p, right? Or do you really use 640p as a custom resolution for anything?

[Anonymous No.2803998]

>>2803648
>I dont want to end up feeling like I half assed it
Avoiding that feeling without gambling tends to cost more.

FWIW, I'm a firm believer in compromising where it makes sense to you personally.

[Anonymous No.2804000]

>>2803479
lol no. way too much for that size. If you don't have one already, work your way with a S-video tv (sony if possible), while you eventually wait for a decently sized/prized PVM.

[Anonymous No.2804016]

>>2803437
This might be a bit unrelated but I found out you could use "Makeruna! Makendo" for the SFC for testing convergence. It has a video test in the option menu.

I used that when fixing my 14N2E (still need to have a second go at that though. it ended up slightly non-linear vertically)

[Anonymous No.2804019]

>>2803774
Pro tubes and screens may be designed to have as few inherent geometry problems as possible, but they aren't automatically better because of it. You'll find just as many problematic units in the wild, fixable in the same way as consumer TVs and monitors.

Pro monitors also tend to use better phosphors.

[Anonymous No.2804102]

What's a good price for PVMs these days? I have a nice PVM-2030, but a 2530 popped up on ebay in my area. Auction looks good, but the starting bid seems a bit steep at $200. I paid $90 for my 2030 a few years ago. I already have all the cords I need for RGB on the 2030/2530.

A quick craigslist search shows another 2530 for $230.

[Anonymous No.2804108]

>>2804102

Depends on your definition of good and if you're including shipping. 150 is the maximum I'd pay before shipping

[Anonymous No.2804127]

>>2804108

Both would be local pick-up, so no shipping.

[Anonymous No.2804143]

>>2803926
Trade me one for peanut butter? How much to ship to Aus, or are they 110V only?

[Anonymous No.2804193]

>>2803798
Luckily thats not my tv, just grabbed that off google. Specifically when running the test dvd on my crt computer monitor the "indan head" test pattern looks fine, but when run on either of my lcd tv's via component or composite from my ps2 the test pattern is noticeably blurry and distorted the grid in the background is noticeably blurry. That is with the tv in the correct aspect ratio. Its very possible its a problem with my shitty lcd tv's, but if i cant be sure the signal is being output cleanly im not confident in using it for testing.

[Anonymous No.2804268]

>>2803798
>better test pattern dvd
yes please, this one is letterbox format which makes it slightly useless.

[Anonymous No.2804381]

>>2803926

Those are sick. Please set up a Double Dash and/or Halo:CE system link and post pictures.

[IaTM No.2804589]

>>2803926
I'll buy the one with 5B on it.

[Anonymous No.2804690]

>>2803962
>You're still obnoxious as fuck
Well you're still a dick. I was encouraging him and telling him the 14L5 is a good monitor.

>>2804268
Okay, here's the DVD. The last two patterns are just for fun but the rest are real.
https://mega.nz/#!jk4nVLAK!0Ez_xqkGmTRgTSG2cxpBc37dqxVzt_fYSCdM4dOefh0

[Anonymous No.2804696]

How does the KV-27FV15 stack up against other consumer trinitron CRTs? I've had one in my bedroom for the past decade or so. Seems alright, though I don't have much else similar to compare it to at the moment.

[Anonymous No.2804719]

>>2804690
every single crt thread

>MY FREE 20L5

[Anonymous No.2804729]

>>2804696
It's weird how people expect us to have encyclopedic knowledge of all consumer CRT's. There's always at least one person per thread.

>>2804719
I got it free and people are asking about prices. I'm allowed to say what I'd pay, and also express my satisfaction. Sorry that upsets you.

[Anonymous No.2804732]

>>2803926

I'd take one to put near the shiter for some quick mario kart action

[Undesired Life No.2804750]

>>2804729
Not that im against you posting you were lucky enough to get one for free but, your price of "free" would be an outlier in looking for an average price to pay. So when people ask for prices your comment is irrelevant to their concerns.

[Anonymous No.2804753]

>>2804729
>StarTropics
Muh nigga

[Anonymous No.2804756]

>>2804750
You can't read then. I said "Something like $180-$200 or similarly low-ball" (compared to the $250 asking price).

[Anonymous No.2804757]

>>2804690
Thanks anon, This is way fucking better than the one i found.

Here is tonights shitty attempt at crt photography. mbacc on a trinitron computer monitor.

[Anonymous No.2804761]

>>2804757
Glad to help.

Derived color bars and the like from FFMpeg (it has a few test pattern generartors), and a few patterns stolen with love from the internet.
It's a personal project of mine.

[Undesired Life No.2804803]

>>2804756
I wasnt specifying this thread youve literally mentioned ur free monitor in the last 3 maybe 4 /crt/ threads atleast, and this is the first time ive seen you mention a price along with ur statement.

Ans im not trying to harp on you but hearing it over and over does get old.

Then again why give a fuck what i think im just some random idiot on the internet

[Anonymous No.2804807]

Daily Reminder, /crt/: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjJ8irRPdqk

[Anonymous No.2804810]

>>2804803
I try to be supportive when people are looking for CRT's.

[Undesired Life No.2804815]

>>2804810
Yet u get upset at people for asking albeit extremely specific questions case and point>>2804729

[Anonymous No.2804816]

>>2804815
I am upset by stupid questions, yes.

How the hell are we supposed to know everything about any given model of TV? Sony made hundreds of them.

[Anonymous No.2804818]

>>2804729
It was just a question, chill out. A lot of people here have multiple CRTs, as do I. I just don't have much experience with trinitrons.

[Anonymous No.2804825]

>>2804816
Not him but people asking for information about CRTs in a CRT thread is pretty relevant to the discussion, regardless of whether you specifically happen to be proficient in knowledge of a particular model/series or not.

Also, it's called google (granted, that applies to the person asking the question moreso, but still).

>>2803926
I don't know much about them specifically but you might be interested in looking into a video wall controller. Not the best spacing between them for that particular use but it's an idea (other than just jumpering all their RGB input/outputs together for 6x repeated displays)

[Anonymous No.2804827]

>>2804825
that person should have at least linked to specs if they really couldn't just google it

[Anonymous No.2804834]

>>2804827
Fair enough.

[Anonymous No.2804846]

Can I use CRT Computer Monitors? I was thinking of using one as a second monitor for emulation.

Anyone know what I should do? Does it matter what monitor I use? Please help.

[Anonymous No.2804847]

>>2804846

You just need to have the right cables really. People use commodore monitors all the time

[Undesired Life No.2804858]

>>2804816
I dont think i need to repeat whats already been said.

[Anonymous No.2804859]

>>2804846
I've been happy with my Viewsonic p220f. I only use it for PC games. You can definitely see the two dark lines (damping wires) that are characteristic of aperture grille. This might be a nuisance since typically you're using a PC monitor right in front of your face instead of at a distance, so keep that in mind if you're considering.

[Anonymous No.2804861]

>>2804847
Commodore monitors are a different beast from more modern computer monitors and the asker didn't specify. You might want to clear that up. 480p VGA monitors are not suitable for 15khz signals.

[Anonymous No.2804862]

>>2804847
Really? That's nice to know.

I just never see anyone post them on here, just TVs. I wasn't sure if they're just unpopular or if there's a major reason why CRT Computer Monitors are ignored over CRT Televisions.

It'll be nice to get to enjoy stuff on glorious CRT screen.

>>2804861
Is there any reason to use a Commodore Monitor over a regular CRT Computer Monitor?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2804863]

>>2804846
>Can I use CRT Computer Monitors? I was thinking of using one as a second monitor for emulation.
Just about any PC CRT monitor made in the past 25 or so years will be compatible with most any modern graphics card, assuming it (the GPU) had either a VGA or DVI-A/DVI-I connector.

>Does it matter what monitor I use? Please help.
Some monitors are sharper than others and support higher resolutions, just the same as with modern flat panel monitors. At this point, it really comes down to what you can find and what you're willing to pay.

An anon above spent quite a sizable amount of cash on what could be easily described as some of if not the best PC CRT monitors out there; On the opposite side of the scale, you often find various (often low-end) models up for sale or even free on craigslist and similar sites.

>>2804847
Unless he's planning on using a Wii or a "special" GPU setup with an RGB compatible model, there are only a comparatively few number of Commodore models that you'd actually be able to use with a modern PC.

[Anonymous No.2804868]

>>2804861
you can use doublescan to output low resolutions on a pc monitor, but it's not ideal compared to a 15KHz display, since doublescan draws each from twice, which hurts motion clarity

theres a couple other things you can do with a pc as input, though, namely
- double the emulators' resolution, putting software blank lines between each line ("scanlines")
- or, double the refresh rate (60>120Hz, for example), and use black frame insertion to avoid hurting motion

[Anonymous No.2804873]

>>2804862
Commodore/Amiga/Apple/(?)Atari monitors of old ran at lower scan rates compatible with the low-resolution output of older consoles (480i/240p). More modern computer monitors run at higher scan rates for 480p, drawing twice as many lines per frame on the screen, and are incapable of going slow enough for such signals.

[Anonymous No.2804876]

>>2804863

i believe most newer generation ATI stuff no longer has a DAC aboard, and does DVI-D only (and DP/HDMI, of course)

>>2804719
Even every second thread would be a godsend at this point.

[Anonymous No.2804879]

>>2804876
>BAWWWW
Sorry I rubbed it in :3

[Anonymous No.2804889]

>>2804879
It's not the free PVM so much as you constantly acting out like a self-satisfied 12-yr-old about it. But hey, the internet is free. Actual 12-yr-olds are probably enjoying the shens.

Some of the time you make a contribution, some of the time you're like this. The real shame is that it's getting harder to tell the difference.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2804892]

>>2804876
That's why I specified ones with VGA(unlikely on anything in past several years) or DVI-I/DVI-A.

AMD has seemingly been dropping support for it on much of their newer stuff, but Nvidia still seems to be somewhat safe.

[Anonymous No.2804894]

>>2804889
I gave my other free 20 inch PVM (PVM-1944Q) to a literal 12 year old. I'm a nice guy.

[Anonymous No.2804898]

>>2804894
We can only judge you based on what we can see, remember. If you act like a smacktard on here, you'll get treated like one. We'd love to see you settle into the community; all you gotta do is reel it in a little

[Anonymous No.2804936]

>>2803552
>640p

[Anonymous No.2805093]

Do I need to mod the Genesis at all if I get the gen 1 "high definition" model

[Anonymous No.2805095]

>>2805093
what kind of mod

[Anonymous No.2805112]

>>2805093
you don't _need_ to mod ANY system. You'll have to specify what you intend for the mod to accomplish.

[Anonymous No.2805113]

>>2805093
there's one genesis model 1 to avoid, the VA7. All others are fine.

[Anonymous No.2805117]

>>2805095
>>2805112
Sorry I meant for RGB out. I'm not familiar with Sega systems and wasn't sure if I'd need to do anything to a Gen1

>>2805113
Thanks, I quickly found the retroRGB page for genesis models I guess I should have just checked there first.

[Anonymous No.2805119]

>>2805117
you don't necessarly need a HDG. Early HDG (VA2) are sought after but they have their own little problems and are fairly rare anyway. Just go for whatever isn't a VA7 or a model 2.

[Anonymous No.2805126]

>>2805119
Later Model 2's aren't that bad, better than the VA7 Model 1's, but you need to know how to identify them from the early Model 2's.

[Anonymous No.2805151]

>>2805126
yeah but they're also fairly rare and still have problems (minor, I agree). The vast majority of model 2 have crappy sound.

[Anonymous No.2805152]

>>2805113
what's the problem with that one?

[Anonymous No.2805156]

I'm actually very interested in getting a Genesis, but as usual am hesitant about getting one unless it falls out of the sky into my lap, because I'm extremely cheap.

...mainly because I'm getting close to exhausting SNES games I feel like playing.

Can a Model 2 have the Yamaha FM chip clone replaced with an authentic one? or is it integrated into a bigger chip in the model 2?

[Anonymous No.2805160]

>>2805152
the sound is ass

[Anonymous No.2805162]

>>2805156
whoops. just realized this is the CRT thread, so here's a picture so I'm kind of on-topic and contributing.

[Anonymous No.2805168]

>>2805162

IBM-CHANG KAWAII

[Princess !dicks9T6Xo No.2805176]

>>2803464
In theory it will

[Anonymous No.2805179]

>>2805152
>>2805160
yeah, it's basically a model 2 in a model 1 shell.
>>2805156
in model 2, sound got integrated but this isn't the problem, it's that the sound gets badly processed, filtered and amped, resulting in muffled sound. Very late revisions got better but they're rare and still have some little issues.

You can fix model 2 with a mega-amp, which bypasses the stock mixing, filtering and amping.

[Anonymous No.2805186]

>Modded a SNES mini for RGB output ~2 years ago
>Made a dog's dinner of it; the mod works, but it's not pretty and I'm scared to open the chassis due to wire spaghetti
>Considered buying another SNES mini and doing a better job, now I have the proper tools
>Console alone would cost 110 AUD to import now
Apologies for the abuse of greentext, but man this retro bubble shit is getting out of hand. That's 50 more than when I bought the first mini.

[Anonymous No.2805190]

>>2805186
>AUD

Found your problem

I feel for you really, but if I lived somewhere other than North America or Japan I'd find a new hobby.

[Anonymous No.2805203]

>>2805186
Can't you get a 1chip non-mini SNES? I believe (am not certain) that you can tell which ones are 1chips based on if the 'eject' label is silkscreened or moulded (my '1CHIP-02' SNES has a moulded one).

[Anonymous No.2805206]

>>2805203

Pretty sure you have to actually open it up to be sure if it's 1chip. Most 1chips have a serial number that starts with UN3 but as far as I know you can't know for sure externally.

[Anonymous No.2805219]

>>2805190
Looking from Europe NA seems to get the worst prices. Japan has the fairest one's, though.

[Anonymous No.2805231]

>>2805219

NA has a lot of resellers but prices aren't too bad and the selection is much better. Plus you rarely need to import.

[Anonymous No.2805247]

>>2805206
You can tell if you remove the expansion port cover on the bottom, for sure. Just not certain about the moulded eject button.

>>2805219
Yeah, I'll admit I've noticed yahoo auctions japan has very nice prices on some things that are really bad here.

[Anonymous No.2805248]

>>2805219
>>2805247
That and as an american I'll admit the super famicom looks far sexier than what we have.

[Anonymous No.2805250]

>>2805248
I might be in the minority in that I prefer the look of the Mini to either

[Anonymous No.2805251]

>>2805250
A lot of people prefer the mini. I don't understand it myself (super famicom is best) but you aren't alone.

[Anonymous No.2805252]

>>2805251

It's cute

[Anonymous No.2805256]

>>2805186
it's like 3 resistors and 3 caps, the fuck did you do in there?

[Anonymous No.2805263]

>>2805256
you'd be surprised how badly someone can fuck up the simplest things.
it's some of my favorite things to look at, actually.

i just finished an NESRGB install in my frontloader. i should have taken pictures, it was beautiful.
i should quit my job and start a modding business, i love doing it.


actually, i'll throw it out here in our beloved /crt/ thread,
anyone need any mods done? i can do all

[e-mail]

[Anonymous No.2805268]

>>2805263
Drakon check, checking for Drakon.

Show us pictures of your mods.

[Anonymous No.2805271]

>>2805268
I'm the one who is requesting the guy who gave his e-mail show us his mods. This is just my SNES one because I'm not buying a multi-out to SCART cable.

[Anonymous No.2805272]

>>2805271
aand the back

[Anonymous No.2805274]

>>2805271
>multi-out to SCART cable
the ones sold as GameCube cables are pretty cheap, though. But I once ended up with one that missed the crucial resistor to make SCART TVs switch into RGB mode. I simply added it and it worked. Not that this would be a problem when used with an RGB monitor like the PVMs etc.

[Anonymous No.2805275]

>>2805274
This is NTSC so you don't want that.

NTSC SNESes equires 3 capacitors, each at 220uf, on the RGB lines. No resistors or SCART for that matter.

[Anonymous No.2805280]

>>2805274
>>2805275
(also, importing costs money and I had RCA cables + RCA-to-BNC adapters already for my oscilloscope and other AV hookups)

[Anonymous No.2805284]

>>2805275
to clarify, that pic has so many capacitors because I could only find 1 220uf in my parts box when I was doing this, so I added up to 220 by putting caps in parallel on two of the 3 lines.

[Anonymous No.2805289]

>>2805275
PAL GameCube cables happen to have those caps that NTSC SNES:es and SFC:s need. However PAL SNES:es have those caps built in instead so a PAL SNES SCART cable won't work properly with an NTSC SNES/SFC.
And the console I used that cable together with was an NTSC-J Super Famicom, btw.

It's confusing, I know.

The resistor is to go from the 5V line you get from the SNES to the RGB enable pin in SCART such that you get 3V on that pin and enable RGB. Otherwise the TV will only display composite.

The whole reason for this RGB enable pin (which can change mid-frame or even mid-scanline I'm told) was to originally enable teletext decoders to overlay ontop of composite video. But then computers and consoles started using that to display all their video.

[Anonymous No.2805292]

>>2805289
Yeah, I know what the SCART resistor is for. I've seen the specs.

It's not _too_ confusing.

[Anonymous No.2805293]

>>2805280
>importing costs money
dude, importing is the cheap way when it comes to hardware and games.
have you looked at those japanese prices?

[Anonymous No.2805295]

>>2805293
Importing a SCART cable costs more than using the RCA cables you have.

And yes, I have a famicom, as shown in >>2805268 . I am aware.

[Anonymous No.2805296]

>>2805293
>hardware
by hardware I meant consoles.

[Anonymous No.2805314]

i heard that crts can explode
is that true?
should i be worried about my crt blowing up in my face?

[Anonymous No.2805316]

>>2805314
*implode.

It's not going to randomly say 'hmm, I feel like this would be a lovely day to send shards of glass into my owner's face.'

If you drop it 50 feet, perhaps. Or hit it with a pickaxe. But the glass is very tough and reinforced to protect manufacturers. You'll be fine unless you try to break it.

[Anonymous No.2805319]

>>2805296
yes, I have a famicom, as shown in >>2805268 . I am aware.

[Anonymous No.2805329]

>>2805316
P.S. most recent CRT's have implosion protection stuff like the metal band around the edges. That also helps prevent it from blowing up in your face.

[Anonymous No.2805331]

>>2805329
how recent? my crt was made in 2000

[Anonymous No.2805332]

>>2805331
post-1960. You're good.

[Anonymous No.2805334]

>>2805332
to clarify, even pre-1960 ones won't spontaneously implode. That requires someone taking a hammer or similar to it.

[Anonymous No.2805356]

>>2805268
>Show us pictures of your mods.
i just went through my pictures, i don't have many. i'll take the nes apart and snap a few pictures when i get a chance.

i've done tons. from av/svideo/rgb mods to various consoles to region and overclock mods to gba101>gba mods. building my own boards as needed.

technically, i'm a professional. half my job is smd work.

here's what i had on my phone 1/3
the smd work i do at work. dime for scale.

[Anonymous No.2805357]

>>2805356
tg16 av mod i did a few months back

[Anonymous No.2805358]

>>2805357
intellivision av mod.

[Anonymous No.2805364]

>>2805358
found a couple pics of a genesis svideo/av mod as well.

yes, i, of course use RGB with my model 1

[Anonymous No.2805365]

>>2805357
What's in that black blob thing?
Did you do something to amplify the sound, because when I modded my PC Engine for RGB the sound I tapped directly from the PCE core unit was very weak compared to the sound I get through the IFU RCA jacks (aside from also missing the CD sound, but that's nearly impossible to fix unless you want mono CD sound as my mod is internal to the core unit (actually a lie as I had to put the RGB amp outside due to cramped space, but I tap everything out of the core unit anyway))
And why didn't you RGB mod it while you ere at it?

[Anonymous No.2805367]

>>2805364
Why is the PCB outside of the console?

[Anonymous No.2805371]

>>2804825

>looking into a video wall controller.

So a device exist that can split a signal into 4+ squares?

Who has hooked this up to GoldenEye for single-screen-per-player multiplayer on 4 small PVMs?

[Anonymous No.2805372]

>>2805365
>What's in that black blob thing?
picrelated, essentially.

didn't touch the sound. i never noticed an issue with it, but it's just the TG-16. i think it sounds great actually. maybe PCEs are a bit different.

>And why didn't you RGB mod it while you ere at it?
ran outta THS7314s. because i sent kya some...
plus, it was just to sell on ebay in the states, svideo is a plus since most crts have them.

[Anonymous No.2805376]

>>2805371

found it http://www.videogamecarnival.com/attractions/the-amazing-screen-splitterizer/

[Anonymous No.2805378]

>>2805372
>THS7314s
I just built my amp out of discrete transistors since the chinese guy I was buying THS7314s from was taking forever.

That's also why I couldn't make it fit inside, however. I probably could if I redid it using less perfboard space, though. But if I'm redoing the mod I'll probably use the THS7314 that arrived like a month and a half too late because it's easier to make it fit inside. But my current solution works good enough that I haven't been arsed to fix it.

[Anonymous No.2805383]

>>2805372
>>2805378
here's the pic of the rgb amp i built for my duo r.
excuse the sloppy soldering, i was in a rush. which is funny, since i still haven't installed it.

>discrete transistors
nice, any pics?


>>2805367
>Why is the PCB outside of the console?
better airflow, silly.

[Anonymous No.2805385]

>>2805356
still don't know why you needed the dime, I think we know how big SMD parts are, but that's a very nice job.

Probably beats my abilities due to me having lost my proper SMD tip a long time ago for my iron.

Pictured: smash bros melee on PVM-20L5 from a wii

[Anonymous No.2805386]

>>2805385
forgot to spoiler image. sorry.

Also just realized I took that in 480i mode.

[Anonymous No.2805390]

>>2805385
>still don't know why you needed the dime
that picture was originally sent to my wife when she asked my my back hurt.
>i was hunched over for an hour just placing this fucker

my smallest tip was the width of nearly 3 of those pins, fun stuff.

[Anonymous No.2805391]

>>2805383
Pic from when I was first testing the amp out, before I had installed a mini-din connector in the place of the original RF port.
Excuse the lack of CRT.

[Anonymous No.2805402]

>>2805391
damn i wouldn't want to find room to place anything in that. they're always smaller than i think.

also, there's something that's just so comfy about an obviously used work bench.

[Anonymous No.2805406]

>>2805402
At that point it was still missing the decoupling cap, and I hadn't grounded the SCART cable shielding probably. I would later figure out that this affected picture quality greatly. The decouping cap more than the shielding, though.

[Anonymous No.2805420]

>>2805376
Am I correct in assuming this would be as simple as buying a video wall controller device? I don't know how much they cost, but that seems like it could be a lot of fun.

[Anonymous No.2805441]

>>2805420

Yeah, that would be a really cool setup with 4 small 9" or 14" PVMs.

[Anonymous No.2805518]

>>2805186
quit fucking up consoles anon

>/crt/ thread

[Anonymous No.2805525]

>>2805420
>>2805441
Only disadvantages for a videowall I can forsee is power draw, but everything has its price, naturally. Also, finding a 15KHz compatible RGB video wall processor may be tricky (also depends on your wall's arrangement, 2x2, 2x3, 3x3, etc.)

Extron apparently has some on their website (BNC RGBHV inputs) but if they're not being sold secondhand on ebay, chances are the only places you can find them will cost you a small fortune (same with their scalers/converters).

[Anonymous No.2805546]

>>2805186
Reminds me of the terrible soldering job I miraculously pulled off for a PS1 modchip install. Yeah, never try directly soldering kynar wire to 8-pin DIP socket legs without a board or chip clamps, you will get burned. It works but I think one of the connections for the stealth mod is failing because I can't get Strider 2 to load on it reliably (without the copy protection patched out of the ISO).

I'll be looking forward to the day I can desolder and correct that travesty of an MM3 install I did in college.

[Anonymous No.2805664]

>>2805268
>Show us pictures of your mods.
Kay.

SMS s-video mod.

[Anonymous No.2805731]

Some nice ass soldering up in this crt thread right hur. One of mine that's not yet done so no glue, just need to do the s-video for the new cxa2075, file out the spaces for the switches, drill the holes for av and s-video and maybe a tmss mod.

check it

[Anonymous No.2805742]

>>2804892
fw900 guy here

I gotta swap out my 290x for a 980 now because amd no longer supports analog, my spare 280x works fine though.

[Anonymous No.2806059]

>>2805268
This pic is around a half year old and a rather successful attempt to improve the RGB quality of the early SNES.
Bypassing the old transistor amps and use a THS7314 in it's place but a single PNP transistor is necessary to get the linearity right.
It now looks better now but it's still not as good as the 1chip SNES.
A few months ago I found some rather huge 5Mohms resistors and replaced these 2 resistors that bias the input to around 0.6V.
Another things done in that SNES are:
>Modified SuperCIC (50/60hz output pin is always automatic, reset button only resets) along with a ON-OFF-ON switch for manual override
>Additional ripple rejection caps (2x 4700µF) at 9V, now the 50hz hum in the audio very very quiet.
>PAL/NTSC433 switch (mounted in the CH3-4) for experimental reasons (and because I can)
>Thin heatsinks on CPU, WRAM, PPU1+2 and VRAM (RF shield still fits)
On the outside it just looks like a clean not yellowed PAL SNES with a huge switch instead of an RF output.

The only other video output mods I did was a RGB DAC for N64 made with 74VHC/74LVX logic and other shit because I broke off a pin (VICLOCK from MX9911) which I intended to lift, that was years ago and I'm not gonna post a pic of that mess which occupies the whole heatsink now.
And I replaced the transistor based video amps in my C64 with two AD810 OpAmps, the luminance output is now very sharp and clear but still has some very slight jailbars (also referred as VIC lines).

[Anonymous No.2806179]

>>2806059
I've seen that in some forum before. Neat.

[Anonymous No.2806208]

Any good CRT TVs or Monitors around 20" (give or take a couple of inches) that I should be seeking out? Looking for something to have on my desk next to my main monitor so I can have one or two consoles plugged in. Not sure where to start looking quality/brand/model wise for this sort of size.

[Anonymous No.2806229]

>>2806208
>Any good CRT TVs or Monitors around 20" (give or take a couple of inches) that I should be seeking out?
Yeah,, lots of em.

How much work and money are you willing to put into it? The answer to your question depends on your answer to this one.

[Anonymous No.2806232]

>>2806229
define 'work' in this context.

Money isn't really an issue but I don't want to go all out, so not really looking into broadcast monitors or anything that could go over £100.

[Anonymous No.2806245]

>>2806232
"Work" meaning hunting down rare display models and console video cables and switching/transcoding equipment you don't already have, modding systems for ideal display output, calibrating your display, etc.

>£
RGB SCART doesn't sound like an obstacle for you, so that's a lot of the worry handled already.

I'm not familiar with the British display landscape or I'd have recommendations for model and price. For the benefit of whoever does help you, what systems are you planning to connect?

[Anonymous No.2806252]

>>2806245
Yeah will definitely be going RGB.

I should probably ask, am I right in saying a majority of PAL CRTs will be incompatible when playing NTSC or 60Hz games?

I have a lot of variety in the systems I'll be using. I want to import some US ones for dat 60Hz, or chip my current consoles. The ones I'm planning on doing this for are the NES, SNES, GameCube and PS1. I'll also be using the Dreamcast but as that's PAL60 for a lot of things anyway I should be safe.

If I had to pick just a couple, I'll say SNES and PS1 to be safe.

[Anonymous No.2806262]

>>2806252
>am I right in saying a majority of PAL CRTs will be incompatible when playing NTSC or 60Hz games?
No. 90% of SCART tvs will accept 60hz through RGB (avoiding PAL/NTSC color encoding hurdle altogether), and many, many decently recent tvs will accept NTSC through composite in.

[Anonymous No.2806280]

>>2806262
All good then, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2806585]

>>2805256
>>2805518
This is the issue.

I used RetroRGB's original mod guide, which suggested slotting the resistors vertically between the mainboard and the underside of the RGB amp chip (which I soldered to a little SMD circuit board off ebay). Unfortunately I had no electrical tape on hand to insulate the underside of the board, to put it flush with the SNES mainboard. Instead I used a little cube of polystyrene that the amp came packaged in to insulate, but made the cube too big. Soldering the resistors with that much vertical distance left the leads way too long, so they bucked as shown here when I was reassembling the SNES. Also I think the board+polystyrene shifted making the thing all the more precarious.

I'm amazed they haven't shorted.
Also I used multicore wire. Thick stuff too, making me even more afraid to open the thing back up. Shame too because SNES was in great condition; I'll probably have to crack it open, unsolder and resolder everything with monocore wrapping wire at some point.

>>2805203
>>2805190
Most eBay sellers don't take good enough pictures to tell 1chip from another and it's more expensive importing an original SNES than a mini. Generally it's just not worth the risk.
Also I like the mini more than the American SNES. The Japanese/PAL SNES design looks even nicer but my entire game collection is imported NTSC-U stuff so modding my childhood Ausfag SNES or an SFC would be an even bigger pain.

[Anonymous No.2806597]

Gonna be moving into a house with some people in a few months while I go to college, really sad that I'm gonna have to break up my retro set-up since I wont have a living room anymore. Gonna keep the stereo and stand probably just as a stand for the stuff and sit at a desk with my PC for a while. Unfortunately I'll have to ditch my Trinitron, which makes me sad, I love it, even if it's just S-video.

Guess I'll get a small PVM for my desk, which ones are good size for that?

[Anonymous No.2806662]

>>2805386
480i mode? Also fuck onett

[Anonymous No.2806690]

>>2806597
If you don't mind the size, then a 8044Q is pretty great. I used one as my main monitor for while until I got myself a 1344Q.

Pretty great little monitor, and it's razor sharp too at 450 lines.

[Anonymous No.2806703]

>>2806690
Should you be keeping that speaker so close?
I thought the magnets in the caused distortion in CRTs over time.

[Anonymous No.2806718]

>>2806703
It hasn't been a problem for it at all actually. It only screws with it if I put the felt on the speaker up to the side of the monitor.

I am thinking of rearranging everything though.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2806742]

>>2806585
>Instead I used a little cube of polystyrene that the amp came packaged in to insulate, but made the cube too big.
Things could be worse, you could have been installing an RGB amp in an N64 and cut the wires leading off of the board too short. At least it's held firmly in place, but still.

>>2806662
Wii set to output interlaced 480i rather than progressive 480p.

Each day that goes by makes me more and more jealous of you guys with the MultiFormat PVMs/BVMs.

[Anonymous No.2806749]

>>2806597
Wanna send me that pvm?

[Anonymous No.2806782]

>>2806742
I've got a woo hooked up to a 14 inch pvm but if I try setting it to 480p it just distorts the image does this not happen for everyone?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2806792]

>>2806782
>480p it just distorts the image does this not happen for everyone?
That's because you (and I) have standard definition monitors. They'll only do 240p/288p and 480i/576i.

MultiFormat sets like the L5 and certain BVMs will do those as well as 480p/720p/1080i.

This is a 480p RGsB signal being fed to an SD only 20M2MDU; It tries to display the picture, but ends up doubling it due to the doubled sync rate of the 480p signal.

You can get triple images by feeding even higher sync rates, but none of this is probably "good" for the monitor's electronics.

[Anonymous No.2806801]

Managed to talk the guy down to $80 for one of the 14L5s. One seemed dead and there should be one more. he also had and older pvm 20 and the jvc monitors look pretty nice. dude wants these gone some boston anon should grab the other l5.
http://worcester.craigslist.org/ele/5269409893.html

[Anonymous No.2806810]

>>2806782
>I've got a woo
that reminds me, I need to get one of those

>>2806801
>lists at $1
triggered

[Anonymous No.2806812]

>>2806792
I see. So the 14m2u can't do 480p. Could you rattle off some model numbers that can do 480p so I can begin hunting

[Anonymous No.2806816]

>>2806812
Get a PC monitor for 480p

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2806823]

>>2806812
It'd be simpler to you to look through this to get the idea of some models which support higher resolutions.
http://www.mediafire.com/download/m1srn8x3m6eb3k1/
These aren't every last PVM/BVM that has support for them, but a definite good starting point. Ignore the F24U, it wouldn't work for vidya and the like.

This is just if you're aiming for a PVM or something, as >>2806816 , a standard PC CRT will do 480p perfectly. The only problem you may run into is stuff that only does Component at 480p, and even that can be gotten around.

[Anonymous No.2806956]

>>2806585
Could be much much worse... like my horrible job chipping my PSOne. I fucking glued it in place on top of an IC not checking whether it would fit (I had a case of major brain fart at the time and thought it was a good idea since all instalation schematics showed the chip on top of there). I had to remove all the shielding and file down on the DIP of the PIC to make it possible for the laser assembly to move freely.

[Anonymous No.2806980]

>>2806597
If it is going to be on your desk 14 is the biggest you should be looking. I have a 20" and it is WAY too big.

[Anonymous No.2807016]

>>2806585
Ah, okay. I got my SNES at a local used game store, so I had no issues getting a 1CHIP.

[Anonymous No.2807017]

>>2806742
20L5 fag here, it's really not much better than a 20 inch PC monitor at displaying 480p - when I look at it, it looks like PC monitors would. Only bonus is that mine can handle YPbPr without an external converter.

[Anonymous No.2807020]

>>2806812
>>2806823
Too lazy to look, but add the Sony GVM-2000 and GVM-2020 if they aren't on there. They handle 15khz to ~40khz I think.

[Anonymous No.2807023]

>>2807020
make that 36khz.

[Anonymous No.2807024]

Anyone know any good/cheap YPbPr to VGA converters, btw? Would be pretty cool to hook up some more systems than the DC to my PC CRT.
Also I would be able to make an accurate assesment of how ass the component output of the Wii is (HD Plasma does too much processing)

[Anonymous No.2807026]

>>2807024
I know there are converters that convert YPbPr to SCART RGB, which can be turned into VGA if you can find a way to split composite sync into Hsync and Vsync. There may be better methods though, anyone else got ideas?

[Anonymous No.2807028]

>>2807024
Define "cheap".
I found this the other day http://www.ti.com/tool/lmh1251eval and it's certainly cheaper than an XRGB-3 which I've seen recommended for this purpose.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2807030]

>>2807017
It's the ability to have support for everything imaginable(at least console wise) in the 15-45khz range that I want.

The PVMs I do have are wonderful for 15khz, be it composite, s-video, component, or RGB.
My PC CRT, when it's feeling cooperative, seems quite nice for 31-70 RGB sources, though its picture certainly isn't perfect.
The Megaview, while sporting the widest support of all, with composite, s-video, and RGB 15-85khz, has no support for Component of any type and is just too damn massive for it's own good at times; And it's picture is also rather poor at this point as well.

Being able to wrap everything up into a nice 20'', 70lb package would be perfect.

[Anonymous No.2807031]

>>2807028
Although that being said if you can solder it seems you could build your own converter using the same LMH1251 chip with this circuit.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2807048]

>>2807031
Admittedly, I can't read or understand much of circuit diagrams such as that, but a bit of reading implies that it can't actually output a usable video signal on it's own, requiring amplification in order to properly drive a monitor; Is that correct?

My willingness to give things a shot is now in a struggle with my mind telling me that my terrible iron will just cause me to break EVERYTHING.

[Anonymous No.2807052]

>>2807048
Correct. It requires an amp.
If you're not certain I'd just pay the $150. It's a lot of money, but if it's on a prefab'd board and insured against fuckups it's probably money well spent. The chip is $30 alone too.

[Anonymous No.2807063]

>>2806749
It's not a pvm, it's a consumer trinitron. I don't think I can send it, it weighs like160 pounds

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2807076]

>>2807052
>The chip is $30 alone too.
I'm seeing prices ranging from $7 to $15 USD.

Call it what you will, but I think I'd get more satisfaction out of it knowing that I managed to put it together and get it working.
I have been meaning to get an actually decent iron anyway; I'm not entirely sure how this terrible little Radio Shack thing is still managing to work at all. Its tip is all types of torn up. Not to mention it's not a terribly fine tip either; Still don't know how I manage to get 2 RGB amps put together and working it did destroy the third though.

[Anonymous No.2807078]

>>2807076
Holy shit kya, wtf are you doing with that thing?

i don't have a spare iron to send you either :p

[Anonymous No.2807082]

>>2807031
I can solder decently. Is it available as DIP? If it's available as DIP it's easy win. I would just need to know what amp it needs to be paired with.
If there was a complete circuit diagram it would be really easy.

[Anonymous No.2807086]

>>2807076
You need a better iron, ASAP...

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2807097]

>>2807078
Not very much, and what does get done isn't done well. It's a wonder how everything doesn't come out as a cold joint.
The only part that actually seems to heat well enough to actually solder things together "decently" is that tiny little bit of what is likely the copper core.
Actually, taking a tiny bit of sand paper to it, I'm absolutely positive that's what it is.
>inb4 sandpaper
It's a literal piece of shit already, sanding it down isn't going to do anything.

>i don't have a spare iron to send you either :p
As nice as that would be, I wouldn't feel right about getting one that way anyway.

>>2807082
That was pulled from it's datasheet from the looks of it.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmh1251.pdf
It also has something showing a paired amplifier, and the originally linked board has the complete schematic for the board: http://www.ti.com/lit/ug/snoa526a/snoa526a.pdf , though it may have extra stuff that you may not need.

>>2807086
Here's hoping some good Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals; I've actually got a decent amount saved up at the moment; I could even afford one of those silly expensive BVMs, if I felt like being a complete idiot.
Any suggestions for a decent low cost iron to keep an eye out for? I've had a Weller WLC-100 sitting in my amazon saved list for what seems life forever, which gets good ratings, but there could be something better in the same price range.

[Anonymous No.2807105]

>>2807097
Doesn't look all too impossible from a quick skimming, but it seems they want me to use another one of their chips to amplify it. I was kind of hoping I could get away with making discrete transistor amps a la PC Engine.
Seems I need to NOT the syncs too.

This would probably end up costing a bit in materials costs, but still probably a lot cheaper than $150.

[Anonymous No.2807209]

>>2807076
Jesus, Kya. The shitty classroom-use soldering iron I used to hackney solder my MM3 modchip from >>2805546
was in better shape than that. Get yourself a replacement station (Kendal, CircuitSpecialists, Something) before you even think of touching another solder joint.

[Anonymous No.2807226]

>>2807209

How do you pick one?

[Anonymous No.2807227]

>>2807097
I've had this in my watchlist for some time now. With the right set of tips, it should be a very versatile station. I believe it's either the same or very similar to the station game-tech.us uses (does mainly NES modwork).

http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-853D-REWORK-SOLDERING-STATION/dp/B00GRHD5RA

[Anonymous No.2807230]

>>2807076
looks like you taught yourself how to solder the wrong way on that thing and just kept using it

[Anonymous No.2807231]

>>2807226
trip back on first Kya
>always with the with the trip-off shens

[Anonymous No.2807240]

>>2807097
>WLC-100
we sell those here where i work, eh, not the best. good range but i never liked the tips.

i'm an xytronics man myself, LF-1600 is perfect for what i do, hobby wise. it's what i do my tiny stuff with even (>>2805356)
it was replaced with the 1680, which has support for an iron and smd rework tweezers at the same time.

if you can find a 1600 go for it.
>inb4 hakko fags with their fisher price toy
nah, i'm kidding they're great too


in the mean time, kya, grab this cheap guy:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098LY1UM/

[Anonymous No.2807568]

>>2807076
>mfw my iron is in worse shape than this

And I'll just keep using it!

[Anonymous No.2807572]

>>2807568
Naughty.

[Anonymous No.2808295]

I have a Pace MBT-210 soldering/desoldering station. It's very nice, but was very expensive when new and replacement parts are still pretty expensive.

Best damned iron I've ever used, though. Hands down.

[Anonymous No.2808313]

>people selling a tv without telling you the screen size

could /crt/ guess what size this is?

[Anonymous No.2808318]

>>2808313

Probably 24

[Anonymous No.2808352]

Another screen cap from my 1344Q.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2808359]

>>2807227
As nice as that looks, I have a feeling that the majority of it would go to waste for my uses.

>>2807230
The thing has never worked particularly well, so it will probably take a bit of getting used to once I get something better.

It probably wouldn't be so bad if I could figure out what tip I could get to replace the current one; It doesn't seem like RS has replacements for this specific model.

>>2807231
Wasn't me.

>>2807240
1680 seems easy enough to find, but any searches for the 1600 only bring up used options or the LF-399D.
As tempted as I am to jump on something right now, I'm gonna try to hold off for a week; If no good deals pop up, I'll grab the 258.

[Anonymous No.2808539]

>>2808313
24 or 25.

[Anonymous No.2808607]

I have a CRT that only accepts composite video. Is it at all possible to get a converter box that can allow me to downscale 480i into 240p?

[Anonymous No.2808609]

>>2808607
480i works at the same refresh rate as 240p so it should work as is. If you really need it though I believe extron made something.

[Anonymous No.2808630]

>>2808352
Why are pictures of CRTs here always so blurry

[Anonymous No.2808691]

>>2808630
Some people don't know how to tripod.

[Anonymous No.2808695]

>>2808630
Some that aren't:
>>2798921

>>2800158
Which CRT is that? looks kinda like my Panasonic BT-H1390yn.

[Anonymous No.2808698]

>>2808695
wrong pic, also more to list.
>>2799216
>>2798923
>>2798881
>>2798707
>>2798601
>>2798597
>>2798524
>>2799575
>>2799628
>>2804729
>>2804834
>>2807227

[Anonymous No.2808702]

>>2800158
just saw filename. Some of the JVC monitors used the same tubes and chassis as my panasonic monitor (I even figured out its service manual from a JVC monitor), so now I'm really curious.

[Undesired Life No.2808710]

Just bought myself a BVM-1911 for $200, shipping included, should be seeing it by the end of the next week cant wait.

[Anonymous No.2808870]

>>2808702
It's a BM-H1900SU.

[Anonymous No.2808886]

>>2808710
Nice set, pics when it arrives, please. Did they give you the key for the drawer and the menu password?

[Anonymous No.2808919]

>>2808710
>900 TVL
Noice

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2808923]

>>2808630
>>2808691
It doesn't look that blurry to me, just perhaps not so extremely focused on the individual phosphors as others, which is nice in its own right depending on what you're looking for.
Colors definitely came out nice on it.

[Anonymous No.2809018]

My eyes are bleeding from composite 240p
I need a Trinitron but I don't have a car.

[Anonymous No.2809026]

I really want a tiny tv/vcr combo they're so cute

[Anonymous No.2809250]

OK!
So I've always preferred the look of a CRT for retro games, but I'm still pretty new to all the technical shit behind it... video signals, synch rates, etc.

My question is this, and it may be a stupid one, but I'll throw it out there:

Is it possible to add more inputs to a CRT through mods and tinkering?

[Anonymous No.2809276]

>>2809250
>Is it possible to add more inputs to a CRT through mods and tinkering?
Yes but don't expect it to be simple and straightforward.
The minimal effort would be to use multiple 4051, 4052, 4053 analog switch ICs to switch the all signals but here's up to you to implement the selection, either a microcontroller which can be used for IR control or simple switches that you mount somewhere on the set.
But before you can do anything, you need to study the schematics as not all CRTs are built exactly the same.

It will be easier to make yourself a external active switch box with as many inputs as you want and 1-2 outputs, there's also less chance that you can fuck up your CRT in the process and you can easily replace your CRT with a another one.

[Anonymous No.2809279]

>>2809250
It's possible. Not sure why you would go through the effort instead of buying a CRT with the input you want or just buying a switch box.

[Anonymous No.2809308]

>>2809250
>>2809279
>Not sure why you would go through the effort instead of buying a CRT with the input you want or just buying a switch box.
This, its fairly easy to find a TV with both component and composite inputs. Look for sets larger than 20 inches and most of them will have at least one of each, including s-video.
Anytime you come across a CRT for free regardless of the size or manufacturer, go ahead and take it home. Run it side-by-side with your current setup to compare the color/contrast/etc to see if its a better set. And if it is, then congrats, you've moved up the CRT scale. You'll practically be buried in the things within a years time if you just keep an eye out for them.

[Anonymous No.2809320]

>wanna take pictures of CRT with new dslr
>on fedex truck for delivery
>scheduled for next businesss day (monday)

why must life be so hard

[Anonymous No.2809321]

>>2809320

Because someone decided shipping via fedex was acceptable

[Anonymous No.2809324]

>>2809308
>its fairly easy to find a TV with both component and composite inputs.

I have one from circa 2004 that has component, composite, and s-video. I've been pretty happy with it thus far, but I'm looking to experiment with RGB. I've also got a couple old VGA monitors at my disposal.

The reason I was curious about modding is because I'm already drowning in the stuff I own as it is, and would prefer to avoid bringing more big boxes into my life for the moment.

[Anonymous No.2809326]

>>2809321
i bought it from canon's shop for a damn good price, but had no idea the free shipping was fedex.

Fedex did deliver my my mint conidition 14L5 though,they backed up their truck to my doorstep and brought out a dolly with a package covered in fragile stickers. and they were the cheapest when i sold a 14m2mdu.

[Anonymous No.2809327]

>>2809326

Last fragile thing I got via fedex the guy shoved it off the back of the truck with his foot and was like "here you go" like I ordered a sack of shit.

[Anonymous No.2809331]

>>2809327
well shit anon, I'm sorry.
I got real god damn lucky though.

[Anonymous No.2809338]

>>2809327
The mall I work at gets regular deliveries from UPS. They literally toss things into a pile about 5 feet from the truck then stack them onto a cart. If I see any of them today I'll take a picture.

[Anonymous No.2809340]

>>2809338

Yeah UPS isn't much better but at least they're on time more often than Fedex.

[Anonymous No.2809382]

>>2809026
I use to have that exact tv. The picture is fucking horrible.

Zenith crt/vcr I have has much better picture. If your getting any consumer tv look for well known brands. Dont get shitty off brands like sansui.

[Anonymous No.2809403]

>>2809382

If I got it it'd just to have on my desk for testing if a system or game worked or not

[Anonymous No.2809520]

uh ohhh

guess what I got /crt/?

[Anonymous No.2809528]

>>2809520
god damn picture

[Anonymous No.2809532]

>>2809528

what model crt is that?

[Anonymous No.2809546]

>>2809532
14L5
personally my favorite model.

[Anonymous No.2809563]

>>2809528
Matey, I don't think your 14L5 is looking too well.

[Anonymous No.2809764]

>>2809546
>90 degree adapters

[Anonymous No.2809847]

>>2809764
yeah what about 'em?

I like to have my tv flush against the wall to save space and preserve my cables.

Ignore the audio y-split one on the end, I have a 90 degree for that one too.

[Anonymous No.2809932]

>>2809308
>Anytime you come across a CRT for free regardless of the size or manufacturer, go ahead and take it home.
>...
>You'll practically be buried in the things within a years time if you just keep an eye out for them.
Do you consider this sound, general advice? I have a lot of stuff, but jeez man.

[Anonymous No.2810109]

>>2809276
That or just run RGB signals to the neckboard where they'd be used for the OSD display. THat works on some models.

[Anonymous No.2810126]

>>2809546
>using the crappy speaker inside the 14L5
>not using good speakers

The 14L5 uses the same speaker as the 20L5 and I can personally tell you that speaker sucks ass.

[Anonymous No.2810214]

>>2810109
>OSD display

[Anonymous No.2810257]

>>2810214
Alright, you got me. I fucked up. Hope you feel proud.

[Anonymous No.2810290]

>>2810126
Probably has foam rot like the ones from the XM29 I parted out. It happens a lot with speakers in arcade cabinets and vintage stereo speakers too, to my understanding.

My understanding is you can easily replace them with something like a modern 2.1/5.1 computer speaker set. I personally just run all my source audio to an external Yamaha amplifier (since the BVMs I have don't have an audio amplifier anyways). I definitely need to touch up the cable management though.

[Anonymous No.2810305]

>>2810257
I told everyone

[Anonymous No.2810414]

I picked up a pvm 14L5 the other day, I think i posted about it earlier in the thread. Anyway I am having some minor issues with the image geometry. I cant really get a good pic of it but on the right side of the screen both corners are closer to the horizontal edge then they are on the left side. It also appears this is slightly reversed in overscan mode. Is this something I can fix with the service menu or does the neck or some other internal need to be fucked around with?

[Anonymous No.2810432]

>>2810414
do you mean it's rotated? rotation is a 'physically rotate the yoke' fix. Geometry can be corrected in the service manual IIRC.

[Anonymous No.2810438]

>>2810432
i dont think its rotated. like i said the right corners are closer to the top and bottom of the screen then the left corners are. none of the geomtrey settings seem to effect this. its not to bad but its irritating me.

[Anonymous No.2810475]

>>2810438
oh, both the right corners? strange. I'll look into this on my 20L5 since I already have mine in pieces to fix a convergence issue.

[Anonymous No.2810480]

>>2810290
No, no surround rot. This was made in 2002 and is far too new to have rotted.

Also, I have speakers from the 70's with rotted surrounds that still sound fantastic. The problem with the speakers in the 20L5 and 14L5 are that they have no highs and no lows. PC speakers are a marked improvement.

[Anonymous No.2810491]

>>2810480
>>2810290
P.S. I repair speakers for a living, I do know what I'm talking about when I say that the 14L5 and 20L5 speakers suck.

Full pic of cabinet. I re-did the surround on the bass myself because it fluctuates more and benefitted more from new surrounds (surrounds = that foam you talked about).

[Anonymous No.2810508]

quick best settings for DSLR capturing crt

[Anonymous No.2810513]

>>2810508

[Anonymous No.2810523]

>>2810491

Oh god. those fried surrounds make me said. Replace those things, man.

[Anonymous No.2810526]

Will S Video fix bleed like this (the red) or should I just ditch the TV? It's an old 24" Trinitron I picked up from Craigslist like a year ago, looks like a mid-late 90s model

[Anonymous No.2810527]

>>2810526
Lol. Also will it/can it fix the blue ghosting to the left of it?

[Anonymous No.2810530]

>>2810527
Nope. gotta adjust your tube dude

[Anonymous No.2810540]

>>2810530
What am I looking for? Or do you mean Crack it open and fix up the internals?

[Anonymous No.2810579]

>>2810540
You're gonna look for a screw that you either tighten or loosen.
Careful, youre gonna need the set on to make it effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAHGex1BsAU

[Anonymous No.2810583]

>>2810579
Ah, that doesn't look as hard as I thought it'd be. I'll give that a try, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2810585]

>>2810583
Is S-video the best you got? Composite's blurriness is gonna make it harder to tell where the line is drawn in matching everything. I'd reccommend a wii with component if you can, but S-video will still be a step up if your set doesnt take comp.

[Anonymous No.2810590]

>>2810523
Nope. It'd change the sound for the worse. I considered doing it but prefer sound to looks.
They aren't fried, they're dried.

Pictured: a different kind of CRT, from an oscilloscope, displaying part of a video signal (video and horizontal sync).

[Anonymous No.2810591]

>>2810585
s-video will do him absolutely fine.
composite's probably a no-no.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2810653]

>>2808359
>>2807240
If I were to end up grabbing the 258, would you suggest picking up a few replacement tips for it, and if so what size(s) do you think would be decent?

I suppose this would fit as a general question on tip size as well.

[Anonymous No.2810654]

>>2810526
>>2810527
are you using RF?

[Anonymous No.2810662]

>>2810654
Composite

>>2810585
Yeah I don't have the money for a PVM or the know-how at the moment to mod my stuff for RGB. I'm thinking s video will be fine but I might even just stick with composite and switch to a smaller, nicer CRT cause it'll fit my room better and look fine

[Anonymous No.2810672]

>>2810662
it's probably no worth trying to fix it. Just try to get another Trinitron that isn't as used and go with s-video.
Read the OP s-video pasta for more info

[Anonymous No.2810676]

>>2810672
I kinda figured after researching it more. I'll maybe try to mess with it for the hell if it, but otherwise I got a nice enough 14" thatll run fine. It's a Toshiba, but I've always noticed it's color/etc is much nicer than my trinitron

[Anonymous No.2810730]

>>2810491
>14L[45] and 20L[45] speakers suck
no shit m8. you don't need to be a speaker technician to tell that. just to begin with who mounts a speaker facing downwards?

[Anonymous No.2810739]

>>2810730
I've probably been desensitized from all the laptops ive had with downward facing speakers, but I think they're ok. I've got one with feet so theres some space between the speaker and my tv stand which makes it a lil better.

[Anonymous No.2810986]

>>2810730
apple

[Anonymous No.2811012]

>>2810730
>who mounts a speaker facing downwards?
Plenty of small subwoofers are down-firing.

>>2810986
Lenovo too, and lots of laptop manufacturers.

[Anonymous No.2811057]

>>2810653
Most of the soldering work I do, including modding systems/etc, I will typically use an 1/8th inch chisel tip.

I think my smaller tip I keep for ridiculously tiny stuff is 3/64" but you probably wouldn't ever need anything that small.

One tip I can give is always use a chisel tip for this kinda of stuff. The pointed ones don't have the heat transfer needed for quick connections.

i used to sell 258s at work, we stopped carrying them and blew them out at ten bucks each. Gone in one day on Amazon... Our cfo is a tard.../spoiler]

Knowing what you do (creepy, right?) and the iron your currently working with, the 258 will probably be perfect for you, grab a chisel tip though.

i totally want to see your solder work now, knowing that you used that abomination. I remember the tupperware sync stripper looking fine, impressive

[Anonymous No.2811225]

>>2806208
Me again, bumping this because still not sure about what I should be looking for. Any specific models?

[Anonymous No.2811281]

>>2811225
Check craigslslist for RGB monitors. You generally get much cheaper results as opposed to searching "broadcast monitor, sony pvm" etc. atleast thats what its like for me.

sony wegas are pretty great consumer models that come in around the 20" mark.

[Anonymous No.2811660]

>>2810672
Don't discourage him, restoring dead CRT's can be fun and rewarding.

Also, trinitrons aren't definitively the only good CRT's. Just saying. I've got a PVM and I actually prefer my panasonic broadcast monitor.

[Anonymous No.2811664]

>>2811660
>restoring dead CRT's can be fun and rewarding.
It also can kill you if you don't know what you are doing or if you are not careful enough

[Anonymous No.2811665]

CRT'S are eye cancer. and I gew up in the 80's. I seriously think all who get a boner over such TV's are fucking insane.

[Anonymous No.2811668]

>>2810730
But apparently you do need to be to know that, because this idiot is using that speaker >>2809546

[Anonymous No.2811670]

>>2811664
Not messing with the deflection yoke. The high voltages are under the anode cap and in the flyback transformer, not the deflection yoke.

...morons.

[Anonymous No.2811681]

>>2811225
any broadcast monitor made in the last 30 years, or the non-HD WEGA's are a safe bet. HD WEGA's have digital scaling and your light guns will not work with it - and you won't get scan lines either. My old Toshiba 20" still looks great and has component inputs, so don't limit yourself to that, though.

[Anonymous No.2811684]

>tfw still have my shitty sanyo from 2006

[Anonymous No.2811720]

>>2811665
That's because you used a shit CRT and RF video.

[Anonymous No.2811751]

>>2811684

Don't bully Sanyo-san!

[Anonymous No.2811821]

>>2806597
This guy here again, no idea why I think I have to get rid of my set-up. I can just have it set-up like normal and sit on my bed. Or use my PC chair or whatever.

[Anonymous No.2811838]

I've managed to keep a PVM-20L5 and two massive speakers in a room at college.

...though I'm not sharing it with anyone else. Sharing would make this impossible.

I'd downgrade to a 14" or smaller CRT if you want to keep a CRT, and maybe some nice PC speakers. My old Harman-Kardons still work great, maybe you can get something like them?

Mine are these, but I got mine for $1 at a garage sale. They had a faulty potentiometer for volume so you had to jiggle it to get the right speaker to work, but that was fixed by reflowing the solder.
http://www.amazon.com/Harmon-Kardon-HK395-3-Piece-Speakers/dp/B001PM4KT4

[Anonymous No.2811841]

>>2811838
>>2806597
>>2811821
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.2811846]

>not having your crt in your lap in bed

casuals

[Anonymous No.2811847]

>>2811841
second speaker not pictured but positioned opposite of desk.

[Anonymous No.2811868]

>>2811846
You're a moron. He meant use the bed as a chair, and have the CRT across the room from the bed.

[Anonymous No.2811870]

>>2811868
>can't recognize an obvious joke
>calls other people morons

[Anonymous No.2811890]

>>2811670
>>2811868

Fuck off

[Anonymous No.2811919]

>>2811870
>it's a joke when I suggest that what someone said is ridiculous, when I simply misread what was originally said and can't admit it

[Anonymous No.2811954]

>>2811919
I'm not anybody in this comment string, but you're either new to 4chan, or have some seriously bad reading comprehension.

[Anonymous No.2812026]

>>2811954
>"having your crt in your lap in bed" doesn't mean
>having a CRT
>on your lap
>while you're on a bed
The one who inferred he meant this is the one with crap comprehension. I don't think the original guy meant pic related.

[Anonymous No.2812027]

Is a 21" Sony FD Trinitron CRT GDM-F500 worth $30?

And I'd have to mod my N64/SNES/GCN/etc to RGB?

[Anonymous No.2812051]

>>2812027
PLEASE link to a manual or some kind of spec sheet next time.

This one's on me because I felt like being helpful.
https://docs.sony.com/release/specs/GDMF500_mksp.pdf

You will NOT be able to use a N64 or SNES with this. Even if modded for RGB they are below the horizontal scan range (you need 15khz). Gamecube is possible if you have a $200 component cable and modify it to output VGA.
This monitor works for 480p, not 480i/240p. Try again.

It is true that you would have to mod your consoles for RGB, if this monitor even supported rates that low.

[Anonymous No.2812058]

>>2812051
specs

[Anonymous No.2812092]

>>2812027
Won't work with your consoles, but I'd say it's worth it for Quake. It's a nice monitor for PC games.

This one's smaller but well-priced and should work without forcing you to mod for RGB.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-TRINITRON-PVM-1342Q-Color-Video-Monitor-2009372-CRT-from-NASA-/151889988273?hash=item235d594ab1:g:XWIAAOSwT6pVuudZ
20 inch monitors cost waaay more.

[Anonymous No.2812124]

Figured I'd ask, but I'm getting a curving on this TV. It's a Sharp TV, but I don't have an exact model. I have it connected up to my SNES via svideo. It only occurs when really bright blocks of color show on the screen i.e. a text-box.

This isn't my normal TV (I'm back in my hometown for Thanksgiving), so I was wondering if this is a common issue.

[Anonymous No.2812128]

>>2812124
Example without the curve due to no text box

[Anonymous No.2812171]

>>2812027
You'd need a line doubler and sync splitter to use that with RGB output from consoles.

However, a monitor such as that should excel for usage as a PC monitor, and you use 480p display modes for emulators, which can be made behave like 15KHz display with the right setup.

[Anonymous No.2812174]

Is there a cheap converter box I can get that downscales all video into 240p, or does such a thing not exist?

[Anonymous No.2812184]

>>2812174
Extron Emotia

http://scanlines.hazard-city.de/

[Anonymous No.2812275]

>>2812171
Line doubler and sync splitter = not compatible and you'll be faking it and not getting scan lines or light gun compatibility (duck hunt) if you use it.

So no, not compatible.

[Anonymous No.2812283]

>>2812124
>>2812128
first of all, your camera sucks.
second, what TV is this?
third, that's a known issue with shadow masks but I've never seen it that bad.

[Anonymous No.2812292]

>>2812124
you should have the exact model number. read the damned label on the back.

[Anonymous No.2812350]

>>2812026
Literally nobody was implying that anybody was using their CRT like that. That is why you have bad reading comprehension.
The joke was a general response to anybody saying that they do not have room for a CRT, and that a true hardcore CRT fan will keep their CRT on their lap.

[Anonymous No.2812376]

>>2812283
>first of all, your camera sucks.
cell phone camera. i already know.
>>2812292
27u-s80 Sharp. I didn't post the exact model because I didn't want to pull it out of it's cubby hole.

It's not my normal TV, so I'm not too worried about taking apart to fix it. I've just never seen this issue before, so I figured I'd ask.

[Anonymous No.2812380]

>>2812376
27u-s610, I meant.

[Anonymous No.2812416]

>>2812026

[Anonymous No.2812427]

>>2812376
>>2812380
You might just be pushing too much power into the tube. That curve can happen when the shadow mask heats up and 'warps'.

>>2812416
The problem with claiming that is the joke is that he never said the word 'lap'.

[Anonymous No.2812429]

>>2812427

That ms paint drawing is literally explaining the joke

[Anonymous No.2812435]

>>2812429
but to be a joke it has to be funny.
This was not.
Thus >>2811919

[Anonymous No.2812438]

>>2812435
>but to be a joke it has to be funny.

No it doesn't

[Anonymous No.2812441]

>>2812435
>>2812429
Also, I made that in GIMP because MS is a bag of dicks. but that's off-topic. so here's a CRT.

Warning: seizures

[Anonymous No.2812524]

>>2799023

That looks too high res for a console. Is that emulation running on a CRT monitor?

[Anonymous No.2812593]

>>2812051
>PLEASE link to a manual or some kind of spec sheet next time.
>This one's on me because I felt like being helpful.
Don't be a dick, stating the exact model number of a display is more than enough for a visitor to these threads asking for advice. If you're a regular here, you should know better than to be this lazy and arrogant.

Somebody please re-add "civil" to the next OP; I put it there for a reason.

[Anonymous No.2812601]

>>2812124
>>2812128
Try turning off VSM or SVM or "scan velocity modulation" etc. if possible. On some TVs you can do this through the user OSD menu, on others you can use a service menu, and on yet others, the circuit is unfortunately permanently on and would have to be cut out manually.

Also, try lowering your contrast.

[Anonymous No.2812607]

>>2812427
>That curve can happen when the shadow mask heats up and 'warps'.
That kind of warping doesn't occur and disappear on the fly with white bursts like that. It happens gradually over time, and it's pretty rare to begin with on late-model CRTs.

[Anonymous No.2812608]

>>2812524
Looks like 480p to me. could be a computer CRT, or a PVM L5 series monitor which supports 480p, or a few other less common monitors that also support 480p (like the Sony GVM-2020 and GVM-2000).

[Anonymous No.2812613]

>>2812607
I didn't really mean warping. But the shadow mask does expand and I have one old shadow mask that does that, but not very severely. The entire image grows larger when the screen grows more white.

Mostly unrelated pic (not the monitor I was talking about, this one just has a different problem causing that warp effect)

[Anonymous No.2812629]

>>2812027
>Is a 21" Sony FD Trinitron CRT GDM-F500 worth $30?
Nice PC monitor, but not for /vr/ consoles. I got one for free a few years ago but never did get to use it much, so I passed it along a while ago. Worth $30 for PC use for sure though.

>>2812613
Yeah, but even expansion doesn't affect the image so suddenly and frequently. It's either a power supply VRM issue or a case where SVM is distorting vertical edges due to extreme contrast between the white lines within the box and outside of it.

SVM is the devil btw. Even if it's not the issue anon is dealing with, everyone in this thread should turn it off permanently and forget it exists.

[Anonymous No.2812630]

>>2812593
It's about time for a new one already. You should go ahead.

[Anonymous No.2812635]

>>2812630
But then I'd have to find funny/lame pictures to rename again, I'm happy with Kya doing the threads.

[Anonymous No.2812636]

>>2812593
You could have and should have linked it.
I'm sorry that I want people who ask questions to have done their homework first.

[Anonymous No.2812639]

>>2812629
Could you define SVM and VRM for me? Not heard those terms used before.

[Anonymous No.2812648]

>>2812636
Don't get passive-aggressive now, these threads don't exist for you to use helpfulness as an excuse to be an asshole. You're anon. You're only as good as your contributions. Either help because you want to, or fuck off. You didn't help him in any way that nobody else could have, politely.

>>2812639
Scan velocity modulation is a way to sharpen/bend/straighten vertical edges at extreme contrast points. It sold TVs in showrooms and can make really shitty signals look a little sharper than they really are, but if you know what you're doing and using clean signals, distorting the image is the last thing you want to do.

VRM = voltage regulation module. Some TV/monitor PSUs used cheapo VRMs so raster is negatively impacted when bursts of white draw too much current from the supply and you get that blooming effect. That's why I said to turn contrast down. If that affects the blooming, it's a VRM issue. Plus the images looked like the contrast was being blasted, which is ugly anyway.

[Anonymous No.2812651]

>>2812648
I stand by what I said. I'd prefer that he link to the manual or specs. It's good he didn't just say "I found this 20 inch sony, is it good?" but I get annoyed when I have to search for things that should be linked by the interested party.

I was rude, though, I apologize.

Also, thanks for explaining those, I'd not heard the terms before but I now realize I've seen those principles in action on a couple TV's.

[Anonymous No.2812659]

>>2812651
Eh, no harm no foul. I hate pretending to be the thread police.

2bh I'm almost to the point where I want to high-five everyone who posts model numbers with their questions. I don't mind looking up manuals to help people if they've done even just that much (though funny enough I didn't even check to see if anon's Sharp has a menu-accessible SVM setting to turn off easily).

[Anonymous No.2812695]

>>2812124
My old flatscreen 100Hz 32" inch used to have this effect where white causes the picture to be wider quite acutely.

My PVM-14N2E has it too, it's actually quite bad with how localized it is making some lines look wobbly sometimes

[Anonymous No.2812706]

>>2811668
I'll tell you a secret:
I know it's shit.
Yet I still use it occassionally. (Mostly out of laziness)

[Anonymous No.2812710]

>>2812706
But why? You could do so much better.

[Anonymous No.2812793]

Why do I hear a "tick tock" sound when I turn on my CRT TV?

[Anonymous No.2812813]

>>2812793
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHBbvlHozPM
like this, clicking of a relay that switches on/off the degaussing coil

[Anonymous No.2813116]

I got my cables in the mail

phone camera doesn't really do a PVM justice

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2813209]

>>2811057
I'm not sure what the 258 comes with by default, but most of the tips I see on amazon for it all seem to be chisel or semi-chisel. Aside from the 1/64, but that does seem stupidly small.

I'll try and take some photos of the Mini and Genesis in a bit as well as maybe close ups of the sync stripper (which I only installed, the board was done for me), but I seriously doubt I'm gonna be opening the N64 any time soon. Too many damn screws.

>>2813116
Cameras rarely if ever do.

[Anonymous No.2813229]

NEW THREAD:

>>2813221

>>2813221

>>2813221