CRT Thread - See Our T(V)

[Anonymous No.2672482]

Previous thread - >>2640367

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright!
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x (embed) (embed)
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W (embed) (embed)
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

So last thread is on auto-sage, time for the next one. Now to my question, anyone got the default service settings for a KD-32DX150U?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2673031]

>>2672482
>anyone got the default service settings for a KD-32DX150U?
There really is no default for service menu settings, since just about every set got some sort of custom configuration work before being sent out of the factory.
Sadly, the "factory default" setting seems to be for before said adjustments rather than after.

[Anonymous No.2673227]

>>2673031
Shame, almost got it fixed up anyway.

Only issue is that I need to switch the M H POS setting everytime I change between PAL and NTSC games.

[Anonymous No.2673416]

time for a shitty story
>friend of mom moves out of country
>must clear appartment
>there's a CRT
>turns out it's a Sony
>its a 29" FD behemoth
>had to lug it out from floor 2 (was not alone thankfully
>works ok but scart is loose, usually resolved by resoldering socket
>Resolder
>no image, led blinks 5 times
>try fixing according to info found on interwebs
>now blinks 11 times, which basically means irreparable on the day and age.

Fug.
While I already have one and it was for a friend in no dire need and it was in great condition, it still pisses me off. At least I keep the remote in case I stumble on a similar set.

Fuck FE2 chassis though, apparently it's the "normal" cascade of events.

[Anonymous No.2673419]

>>2673416
*wasn't in great condition.

Also, my current trini isn't the same but has the FE2 chassis....

[Anonymous No.2673712]

>>2673416
My favorite Sony chassis are BE-2A and AE-1B from the early 90s, when "It's a Sony" was more than just a slogan.
But I once resoldered the SCART socket on a KV-M1400D, afterwards it didn't powered on as if it wasn't plugged to the wall.
After a few months of letting it sit somewhere unplugged I tried to turn it on again. Surprisingly it started to work normally and SCART socket also worked fine.
I don't know why or what I did wrong but maybe you should try the same.

[Anonymous No.2673731]

anyone near queens/nyc/long island want a 20M4U for free

I'm also selling all my video game shit (what happened to BST threads?)

[Anonymous No.2673734]

>>2673731
Died out.

You can always make:
>BST2: Revenge of teh BST

[Anonymous No.2673753]

Just got a CRT monitor, hooked it up to my pc and I can't turn the resolution Down lower than 800x600 Is there any way to bypass this? because on one emulator I can turn it down to 400x300.

[Anonymous No.2673796]

Anyone got any experience with Panasonic PanaSync Pro monitors?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2673803]

>>2673753
PC CRTs will usually go down to 640x480 @60hz at the lowest, baring double refresh shenanigans

[Anonymous No.2673815]

>>2673753
That's Windows being Windows and restricting user choice because BAH NOBODY USES 640X480 ON THE DESKTOP ANYMORE.

I believe there are ways to bypass it with certain utilities, but it's better to just let it be when it comes to the general desktop. As long as emulators give you the option of going lower, you should be ok.

[Anonymous No.2673912]

I picked up a 27" Mitsubishi Megaview, but I can't get an image on either of the composite inputs. I haven't tried RGB yet because I don't have the cable. The OSD comes up, but it's really wobbly. Any ideas I can try or is this thing likely toast?

[Anonymous No.2673932]

>>2673815
Yeah I thought so, (windows 7). Thanks

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2673939]

>>2673912
Is there a switch near the composite input that has S-VHS as one of the options? It switches from composite to the nearby S-Video input.

Got any photos of it?

[Anonymous No.2673943]

>>2673939
Yes there is, but I switched it from S-Video to normal. There's also high and 7.5 ohm resistor settings, but neither have worked for me. Give me a moment and I'll snap some pics.

[Anonymous No.2673954]

>>2673943
Here's a a shot of the inputs

[Anonymous No.2673959]

>>2673954
Here's a shot of the front. It looks a bad photo, but that's because the picture is shaking pretty badly. There's bands moving down the front as well. The position of the OSD text also seems weird to me, but I've never used one of these so I don't know if that's normal

If I'm on one of non composite inputs, the text becomes much steadier, though it does still shake vertically a bit.

[Anonymous No.2673980]

I just got a 13 inch Panasonic CRT video monitor at a neat little electronics surplus store. This is my first "professional" CRT/monitor. It seems to be a fairly low-end 420-line model with 3 composite on BNC inputs and 1 S-video input. No RGB but I don't have any RGB cables right now anyway.

When I hook it up, why don't I get pretty 240p scanlines like you guys do? Is it because I'm using composite video? Did I buy the wrong thing?

The pixels on my screen don't even seem to be lined up in rows, more like columns.

[Anonymous No.2673994]

>>2673980
What do you have connected to it?
>The pixels on my screen don't even seem to be lined up in rows, more like columns.
See pic

[Anonymous No.2674002]

>>2673994
That screenshot is SNES F-zero connected by composite. I also tried NES composite and it looked the same way.

And, ok, I guess I have "shadow mask." It's good to know what that's called.

[Anonymous No.2674007]

What makes "arcade monitors" their own thing? Are they just basically high quality tubes with no casing?

[Anonymous No.2674013]

>>2674002
Perhaps the image simply isn't sharp enough and the color is bleeding into the other lines.

[Anonymous No.2674041]

>>2674013
Ok, here we go, I found on the archive of /vr/ another anon who had almost exactly the same Panasonic monitor (slightly older model). He posted comparisons of the Panasonic monitor with a Trinitron, and while on the Trinitron you can see the usual dark scanlines, his Panasonic looks like this, which is very similar to mine.

So I guess it's fine then, and that's just how it's supposed to look. It looks pretty good to me from a comfortable viewing distance, anyway, so I think I'll use it.

[Anonymous No.2674065]

>>2673980
>>2674041
Thick scan lines are overrated.

[Anonymous No.2674075]

Close up of some letters, taken from my new PC Engine Duo.

[Anonymous No.2674126]

>>2674075
Nice scene from Star Parodia.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2674171]

>>2673959
>If I'm on one of non composite inputs, the text becomes much steadier, though it does still shake vertically a bit.
Something like that has happened with mine when feeding it a signal it doesn't like, be it for grounding issues or sync issues. The location of the volume and input label also changes depending on what resolution it's at, so I don't think that should be seen as a problem.
Mine usually defaults to a blue screen when not beng fed a signal, and refuses to go into the OSD with something being displayed, so perhaps it thinks it's getting a signal when it's not.

Photo is Composite vs S-Video from a 1001 PS1.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2674187]

>>2674171
Posted wrong one, oops.

[Anonymous No.2674189]

>>2674126
Let's try this, seems fun.

[Anonymous No.2674212]

Is there a recommended configuration of picture settings for gaming on a CRT?
Obviously much of it will be on a TV-to-TV basis, but I was wondering where you guys place sharpness, saturation and all the other usual settings.

[Anonymous No.2674231]

>>2674187
delate this

[Anonymous No.2674302]

Just look at that aperture grille

[Anonymous No.2674403]

>>2674302
Wish I could get a photo that well-focused. What's the monitor?

[Anonymous No.2674461]

>>2674403
Trinitron KD-32DX150U

[Anonymous No.2674479]

I just picked up a Trinitron KV-27FS100L for $25 off of Craigslist recently.

Certainly not top a top of the line set, but it blows my other CRT's out of the water in picture quality. 3 sets of composite, 1 component, and 1 s-video inputs.

Here's a shot of Streets of Rage 2, running off a Sega Nomad via composite. Pic taken with my phone's camera.

[Anonymous No.2674483]

A shot of Chrono Trigger; SNES via s-video.

[Anonymous No.2674485]

One of those angled shots...

[Anonymous No.2674507]

>>2673753
Soft15Khz, Powerstrip or CRT_Emudriver. I thinnk GroovyMAME might have these built in, or something.

[Anonymous No.2674513]

Just picked up a Sony Multiscan17se2 (model GDM-17SE2T). Noticed it has RGB Bnc on the back as well as 2 bnc inputs labeled HD and VD. What are the hd and vd inputs for?

[Anonymous No.2674518]

>moving PVM one day
>slip on ball I didn't see in front of my foot
>drop PVM
>everything still seems fine after that
>try orienting PVM vertically
>colors messed up in one corner
>turn monitor off
>re-orient it horizontally
>turn it back on, color still mesed up in corner
>never had this problem before
>degauss
>colors still messed up
>try degaussing again
>colors still messed up
>panic
>pick up PVM and slightly shake it
>degauss
>fixes color a little
>rinse and repeat
>gradually fixes color
>scared to orient my monitor vertically again

What did I break when I dropped it? Would it be a wise idea not to orient it horizontally anymore? I fear if I do, the colors in that corner will mess up again and won't go back this time I really want to play vertically oriented arcade games on it, though.

[Anonymous No.2674523]

>>2674513
Sync.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2674525]

>>2674513
>HD
Horizontal Deflection
>VD
Vertical Deflection

Horizontal and Vertical sync. 5BNC is just another way to feed RGBHV, instead of a DE15.

[Anonymous No.2674529]

>>2673731
I'm in nyc, hit me up

[Anonymous No.2674537]

>>2673731
email?

[Anonymous No.2674542]

[Anonymous No.2674546]

>>2674212
Drawing attention to this before the thread leaves it in the dust

[Anonymous No.2674548]

>>2674542
Sadly Compile couldn't prevent it, /v/ was created anyway.

[Anonymous No.2674630]

>>2674171
Okay, thanks. I've got some cables coming in, so hopefully things work better through the BNC connectors.

[Anonymous No.2674636]

Its late and I'm lazy but I went on a mini tv/monitor buying binge

Bought a 36in 4:3 trinitron wega for light gun arcade games like House of the Dead on OG Xbox and Time Crisis for PS1

I know it TECHNICALLY isnt CRT but, also bought 2 working 40inch Pioneer 4:3 PDP 402s and 1 broken one. Only have space in my house for 1 in my arcade set up, so I stashed one back up and broken one at my parents in case of a break/burn out.

Traveled 3hrs to get the PDPs and 1.5hrs+moving company for the Trinitron. The moving company did NOT believe me when I said the tv was 200+lbs...I have no clue how it is gonna leave my basement.

[Anonymous No.2674656]

Hey /vr/ I just bought a CRT TV and it looks like
>>2673980
What is required to get an image to look like
>>2674403
The scanlines look great. Is it a certain type of TV?

[Anonymous No.2674693]

>>2674656
Get a TV with an aperture grill display if your current one isn't, and get the best cables possible.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2674704]

Flash+Increased Exposure with a very low ISO=Actually pretty decent for shots taken during movement

[Anonymous No.2674751]

>>2674704
Streets of Rage and Mega Man are best at scanline porn

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2674792]

>>2674751
Anything with good sprite work or art direction are always targets for me.

>1732 files, 145 folders sorted
>7467 files, 164 folders unsorted
I'm never going to get through this. I think once I get to 2000, I'll make another upload to flickr and then try to whittle the size down from there. They build up so damn fast though. 2000 of those files are just from the last 5 months, not counting stuff I deleted outright.

[Anonymous No.2674874]

On a CRT, is there any visible difference playing with original hardware vs playing Virtual Console or homebrew emulators on the Wii? Having original hardware would be nice but for the money I'd be happy to capture the look and feel of the games.

[Anonymous No.2674940]

>>2674792
Haha, thats funny. I'm the guy who begged you to make your first flickr probably about a year ago.

You're still da best.

[Anonymous No.2675017]

>>2674525
Do you need to convert csync to vsync + hsync if you want to use these monitors to gaming?

[Anonymous No.2675048]

>>2674656
Thick scanlines are what you get on a high-res tube like a PC monitor or (in this case) a high-TVL professional monitor (here a pvm 14L5). The aperture grill is also responsible for how straight they are.

[Anonymous No.2675196]

some days i can get great pics of my crt but others i cant, its a struggle

[Anonymous No.2675252]

>>2674518
>>drop PVM
Ah, shit anon.
>>everything still seems fine after that
An beginners mistake, I would never turn on such a sensitive (and expensive) device after such a accident. Always open and inspect for serious damage before the turning on a high voltage device with open circuits which might fuck up other things.
>What did I break when I dropped it?
Perhaps you loosed or damaged the yoke.
Maybe you need to readjust the purity which might throw off convergence and picture center.

>>2674546
>Sharpness
Neutral, aka no added edge enhancements or making it blurry than it really is.
>Saturation
>NTSC Hue
>Brightness
>Contrast
After an SMPTE pattern, just set the contrast so that the white level is very bright but doesn't hurt your eyes.
https://youtu.be/yoBqm4ThJxw?t=63
You don't have to follow this 1:1 but simply take that as an example, you not gonna see it if the saturation or hue are slightly off.
>horizontal center and size
Composite from a PAL NES, so about 1-2 pixels (of 252 total) are cut off.
This will show roughly 640 pixels of an BT.601 signal.
>vertical center and size
In a way that the pixels of an 12,27mhz@60hz or 14,75mhz@50hz signals are quite square and that there's no large amount of reflection of cutoff measurement lines (red, green and blue lines in the upper part of the overscan) hit the aperture grille frame (only small Trinitrons are affected).
It really never works out to make the this perfect, as the earth magnet field affects the vertical center. That's why my picture is vertically 2-7% smaller than it should be to compensate the vertical misplacement.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2675327]

>>2675017
A computer monitor like that isn't likely to support sub-31khz sync sources, so outside of Dreamcast and a few select 480p+ setups, you're really only going to be able to use it with a PC which outputs H sync and V sync by default.

[Anonymous No.2675341]

>>2675327
Well, there IS always the line-doubler solution.

[Anonymous No.2675354]

I'm thinking of getting a WiiU with Mario Maker but I only have a CRT TV with the component cables, how would it look?

[Anonymous No.2675370]

>>2675341
Go on...

[Anonymous No.2675464]

>>2674874
miniscule at best imo.

Google rgb snes vs component wii and you should see some Zelda alttp comparisons

if you have alot of money go for rgb.
if you happen to have a wii with component, forget rgb, not worth selling out for the cables, mods, etc.

just make sure you output 240p for the wii whether it's an emu or vc game. there is a way to force 240p from vc games.

[Anonymous No.2675489]

>>2675354
Can't composite go into component?

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2675532]

What have I done...?

[Anonymous No.2675538]

>>2675532
collected a bunch of shitty old daedoo monitors

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2675541]

What have I done...?

>>2674518
Y O K E
Sounds like the yoke has been knocked loose. I had the same issue with a PVM I had that I suspect was dropped in shipping. Seemed like the color on mine would change depending on how I moved it. I could fix it temporarily then it would slowly drift out again over time.

[Anonymous No.2675660]

>Finally see a good-looking CRT on CL after coming up dry for months
>includes stand for 50 bucks combined
>mfw
It's a JVC AV-27D201. It's got component video too, though I have no idea if that will support 240p. Should I go for it? The only console I have on hand is a PS2 with some games installed to the HDD and some PS1 games, so hopefully that should be enough to test it out.

[Anonymous No.2675690]

>>2675660
Make sure it works, then offer him 30 bucks.

Most people put up their CRT's for 50 bucks to get any money for them, but really just want them gone. If you say you'll take it for 30 or walk, they'll almost always take it from my experience.

[Anonymous No.2675719]

>>2675464
Okay, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2675760]

reposting.

www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de -> search for 353285103

somebody grab this, these things are rare as fuck. I'd be all over this if I had space for a second one (or lived nearby).

[Anonymous No.2675914]

not bad for pal, whaddya think /vr/?

[Anonymous No.2675923]

>>2672482
I got a CRT Monitor
everything looks exactly the same except for some really, really slight scanlines (and just because I know where to look)
Am I doing anything wrong?

[Anonymous No.2675952]

>>2675923
what monitor?

[Anonymous No.2675971]

>>2675952
HP 7540

[Anonymous No.2675983]

>>2675971
What happens when i use 320x240 in snes9x

[Anonymous No.2676002]

>>2675983
nvm, fixed it by changing from Direct3d to OpenGL

[Anonymous No.2676068]

how do I force PJ64 to 320x240?

[Anonymous No.2676204]

Some guy from my job gave me an apple studio display 17 inch monitor the lowest resolution it supports is 640x480 (although I can force 320×240 but it looks distorted) should I keep it? I can't even see any scanlines at all on it.

[Anonymous No.2676209]

>>2676204
www.everymac.com/monitors/apple/studio_cinema/specs/apple_studio_display_17.html

Here are the specs.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2676317]

>>2676204
>although I can force 320×240 but it looks distorted
That's because your computer is scaling it up to 640x480 at the least. It's a computer monitor and won't go below a 31khz sync frequency, or 640x480@60hz. You could do ****x240@120hz though.
I've heard the Trinitron variations are pretty nice, so I would assume the Diamondtron models would be at least decent.

[Anonymous No.2676326]

>>2676068
It would depend on the video plugin, and I don't think any of them support it for fullscreen.

Your best bet for 240p N64 emulation would be RetroArch.

[Anonymous No.2676419]

I need help /vr/, I picked up a Sony Trinitron today and it has a problem with the screen. Near the top left, the picture is bowed slightly. How do I fix this issue?

[Anonymous No.2677537]

>there are people that still have HD crt tvs and think they're part of the masterace

[Anonymous No.2677562]

>>2677537
The KD-32DX150U isn't a HD CRT is it?

It only outputs at 576i at best and has no HD inputs, the only shit it has is that DRC crap which remains switched off.

[Anonymous No.2677569]

>>2676326

Stop spamming this stupid shit all over /vr/. Do you literally spend 24 hours a day promoting Retroarch online? What the fuck.

To the person you were replying to: The only real active n64 emulators are P64 and Mupen64 plus. Retroarch is just a frontend, and it would use one of those or another n64 core, so there's no point in using a middle man.

[Anonymous No.2677734]

>>2677569
You are one seriously autistic motherfucker. I mentioned RetroArch because for the use case that the guy was asking for (240p CRT support), it IS the best and easiest to get working.

[Anonymous No.2677896]

>>2677734

You keep trying to viral Retroarch in dozens of threads on /vr/, and it's been going on for weeks. Nobody cares about Retroarch except you. You're seriously disrupting the board with this shit, and it needs to stop. /vr/ doesn't get much traffic as it is and you're ruining the quality of this board for everybody else.

I don't care what your reasons are for wanting to viral Retroarch. I'm asking you to kindly stop doing it here. All you're really doing is making people avoid it out of spite, because you've spammed the shit out of them with it.

[Anonymous No.2677909]

>>2677896
I have no words. I would try to explain how I am not the viraler boogeyman you have deluded yourself into thinking has infested this board, but it seems reason will not work here.

I will reiterate: the guy asked how to get 240p output on Project64. I explained it would not be easy, and stated if he wants to do that with N64 emulation, his best bet would be through RetroArch (no, standalone Mupen64Plus is not cut out for it either, and it's a humongous piece of shit compared to Project64). Never did I state RetroArch was the best or superior to Project64 for N64 emulation, just that for that ONE case, it would probably be worth trying out.

In any case, I find your fanatical opposition to a fucking program being at all mentioned on a mongolian puppet show forum hilariously pathetic.

[Anonymous No.2678110]

>>2677569

So the anti-RA fag now infests the CRT threads...

>Stop spamming this stupid shit all over /vr/. Do you literally spend 24 hours a day promoting Retroarch online? What the fuck.

This question should be redirected back to you since you've become rather well known around here for making it your full time job to spread hate about some software on /vr/. No one but you can understand why you do this though.

>>2675983
>>2676068

Follow this guide for the best results on CRT monitors:
http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#240p.2F480i_Emulation

Subsitute RA in that guide for MAME or whatever else you want to use, but make sure it lets you set arbitrary custom resolutions.

[Anonymous No.2678116]

>>2677896
>You keep trying to shit onRetroarch in dozens of threads on /vr/, and it's been going on for weeks. Nobody cares about your hateboner for Retroarch except you. You're seriously disrupting the board with this shit, and it needs to stop. /vr/ doesn't get much traffic as it is and you're ruining the quality of this board for everybody else

>I don't care what your reasons are for wanting to shit on Retroarch. I'm asking you to kindly stop doing it here. All you're really doing is making people want to use it out of spite, because you've spammed the shit out of them with your hate.

Right back at you, fag.

Nobody but yourself is ruining /vr/

[Anonymous No.2678140]

>>2677896
Retroarch still has shitty default UIs, just saying. Honestly, I shouldn't have to fight with a console-style menu that doesn't even work properly with "normal" keys like Esc or Enter when I'm emulating on a PC.

Retroarch only does two things better than other programs; it has better shader support, and it can act as a frontend for emus like Mupen64 and Genesis Plus GX. That's it.

[Anonymous No.2678163]

Back to the topic at hand losers, CRTs

[Anonymous No.2678170]

>>2678140
>Honestly, I shouldn't have to fight with a console-style menu that doesn't even work properly with "normal" keys like Esc or Enter when I'm emulating on a PC.

You can remap keys how you want them. The low resolution console-style menu is absolutely essential for CRT usage, actually. It lets you change settings fullscreen and not have to exit back to desktop to mess with settings in windowed mode. RA and MAME are the only things I would use for emulation on CRTs because of their in game menus.

[Anonymous No.2678206]

http://a.pomf.cat/ysadql.jpg

16MP shots are just too big for 4chan

[Anonymous No.2678298]

Now I'm torn. I have a SNES Mini, modded for RGB and the entire time I've been using it, I've been using a sync on composite video SCART cable. However from what I can understand, that can cause weird color issues in some games and for the image to not display properly.

Thing is, I don't know if the RGB mod I got is set up for Csync or Sync on Luma and I'd like to purchase one or the other from retro gaming accessories.

Halp!

[Anonymous No.2678586]

>>2678298
Your cable must be shitty if using composite for sync affects RGB.
>that can cause weird color issues in some games and for the image to not display properly.
Normally it's some sort of fine crosshatch/checkerboard pattern visible on the screen.
Missing colors are usually the result of bad contact, problems with syncing could be blamed on the TV or bad grounding.

[Anonymous No.2678629]

>>2677896
And there is that one guy who thinks he has some mission to defend RA and will get mad everytime someone says something against RA, be it bait shitposting or valid criticism. Anytime,you're always here.

You are deluding yourself or have mental issues if you really think it's just one guy having a "vendetta" against RA. Maybe in your head you are trying to persuade yourself that everybody use and love RA but it's really not the case and I know we have been more than one people criticizing it or mocking his devs.

Also, one of the way for your frontend to improve would be to stop thinking all criticisms are attacks against you or devs work and someday accept that you can not be right all the time and made mistakes.

In short, "grow up" and your program will grow

[Anonymous No.2678654]

[Anonymous No.2678961]

>>2678654
what's your setup

[Anonymous No.2678991]

>>2678961
Oh it's just a standard VGA PC monitor.
I was just fucking around with RetroArch and figured it'd be neat to see how Zero Mission looked at 240x160 on CRT.

I think it looks pretty neat, but it was really small.

[Anonymous No.2679042]

A friend's neighbor had a massive like ~40" Trinitron out on his curb with a sign on it that said "Free"

I called a friend with a Jeep commander and stuffed it in the back, which it barely fit in

I have absolutely no idea what I'm going to do with it. I have almost no room in my house and getting it up the stairs seems impossible. I could replace the 36" TV in my living room but I've had that for like a decade and a half and I'm kind of attached to it even though it's an inferior display

[Anonymous No.2679241]

>>2679042
is it a HD set ?

[Anonymous No.2679931]

>>2679241

I don't believe so

[Anonymous No.2680216]

>>2675914
Dat some Grandia?

[Anonymous No.2680447]

i got ya crt

[Anonymous No.2680580]

I've got a little 19" off brand CRT that only accepts composite video, and I connect five systems to it through a splitter. The splitter accepts composite video and S-Video. Would I notice any difference in quality by plugging the systems into the splitter via S-Video, then into the TV via composite?

[Anonymous No.2680758]

>>2680580
Nah. S-video is just the two components of composite video running along two different wires. It all gets shoved into the composite port by the end.

[Anonymous No.2680884]

Kya, what dreamcast fighters are 240p?

[Anonymous No.2681107]

>>2680884
>As far as I know, these are the only Dreamcast games that support native 240p:
>Bangai-O
>Last Hope
>Street Fighter Alpha 3
>Black Matrix A/D
>Marvel vs Capcom: Clash of Super Heroes
>Street Fighter Zero 3
>Gunbird 2
>Neo XYX
>Street Fighter Zero 3 for Matching Service
>Gunlord
>Princess Maker Collection
>The King of Fighters Dream Match 1999
>Jo Jo's Bizarre Adventure
>Street Fighter 3: Third Strike
>The King of Fighters 99 Evolution
>Last Blade 2: Final Edition
>Street Fighter 3: Double Impact
>Twinkle Star Sprites

[Anonymous No.2681161]

I'm just curious.
Are HD CRTs better than your average LCD LED tv?
for older consoles of course

[Anonymous No.2681214]

>>2681161
Well HD CRTs aren't particularly useful for anything standard def, which basically takes care of anything /vr/ related. There are some sets that do 480p natively that are useful for 480p sources, but none of them are that good at 480i/240p.

But all LCDs are shit for retro content. A HD CRT might be a small, small step up in that regard but you're better off getting some shitty old FD trinitron for the old stuff.

[Anonymous No.2681282]

>>2679931
I think there was only one 40" trinitron, and it was HD

[Anonymous No.2681286]

>>2681161
They still have great color. xbr960 is an amazing set for movies and such. Not sure what the latency looks like on HD CRTs, though.

[Anonymous No.2681415]

Just picked up an NEC FE2111SB-BK for free

Extra retarded question - are power cables all the same? i.e. can I use the power cable from my LCD monitor with this one? I either forgot it or it didn't come with one.

[Anonymous No.2681437]

>>2681415
well if the connector fits then yes

[Anonymous No.2681597]

/vr/, I need help fast!

I have the opportunity a Sony BVM-2010P or a Sony BVM-D20F1A. They are Australian models, if the model number looks a bit strange to some.

Any advice would be most appreciated!

[Anonymous No.2681617]

>>2681597
If the D20F1A is in good nick, get it. If it has the little Multiformat tag in the top right of the screen then it's a true multiformat set. SD for older consoles, 480P and up for GC/DC and newer, and watching vids.

Please get me one while you're at it.

Remember that picture quality trumps everything else though. If the 2010P has a better picture you might be better going that way, even though it's SD only.

[Anonymous No.2681640]

>>2681282

That was an estimate from eyeballing it. It looked bigger than the 36" TV I had at home. It is actually a 36" itself, just with a bigger body than the one I'm used to.

I ended up just making a space in my living room and shoving it in there, now I have two massive CRTs in my living room. Moving is going to be a nightmare someday.

[Anonymous No.2681783]

>>2681415
Anyone know how I get the refresh rate above 85hz? The manual says is can do 160hz at 640x480, but it's not listed as an option.
Windows 8.1, GTX 660

[Anonymous No.2681792]

>>2681783
You have the Nvidia control panel installed, right? Just create a custom resolution with 85Hz.

[Anonymous No.2681817]

>>2681792
aye, that did it. thanks

[Anonymous No.2681826]

>>2681640
The 36 trinitron is FUCKING HUGE. It looks like 40inches.

It has one set of component cables, highest video output is 480i. My basic ps1 guncon works with it.

[Anonymous No.2681951]

>>2681640
36"?!

I have a 32 and it takes up half my fucking room. I think there's a limit with CRTs that shouldn't be crossed, somewhere around 26

[Anonymous No.2681984]

>>2681826
>>2681951


When I turn it on it sounds like a boat horn. I'm probably getting a little bit of cancer every time.

It's awesome.

[Anonymous No.2681995]

>>2681984
God I know that feel, every time I switch mine on it's like Big Ben sounding off.

[Anonymous No.2682182]

>>2681995
>tfw no 36" Trinitron

[Anonymous No.2682846]

http://a.pomf.cat/gikexw.jpg

I wonder how a real NES with the RGB mod would compare...

[Anonymous No.2682871]

>>2682846
Hot damn. Camera and settings?

[Anonymous No.2682943]

Where should i take my CRT to get its scratches off, i don't care if some stuff needs to be replaced,
is it even possible?

[Anonymous No.2682956]

>>2682871
Camera is a Galaxy Note 5. I think I was using ISO50 for that shot.

The screen is a standard Dell e771p 17" CRT, max scan rate about 70KHz, dot pitch 0.27mm. In that shot, it's running 480p with a very large horizontal res for scaling purposes, with horizontal black lines inserted to give an effective resolution of 240p. Maxed out color levels so it's really damn bright and vibrant even with the black lines.

Emulator is Nestopia-libretro, with color palette set to canonical. Boosted the gamma to 3.4 so the colors look exactly like they do with my real NES on my CRT TV.

[Anonymous No.2683070]

When my monitor resumes from sleep it does this every few minutes for about a half hour, then stops. Anything I can do about it? It's running at the recommended settings.

[Anonymous No.2683085]

>>2683070
I'm afraid it's dying.

[Anonymous No.2683097]

>>2683085
Can't tell if you're serious or not. It seems to go away after a bit.

[Anonymous No.2683112]

>>2683070
It's dying.

[Anonymous No.2683165]

>>2683112
no

[Anonymous No.2683392]

>>2681597
Results, anon? Where were these sets coming from? And for how much?

[Anonymous No.2683424]

I have an old Gateway 2000 monitor from 1995 at my parent's house from back in the day and last time I hooked it up it was very... Dim? Is there a way to restore the vividness of past on old monitors like this?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2683614]

>>2681951
>I think there's a limit with CRTs that shouldn't be crossed, somewhere around 26
>>2681984
>I'm probably getting a little bit of cancer every time.

Go big or go home; Maximum CRT, Maximum Cancer

[Anonymous No.2684172]

>>2683614
Awesome. Wish I had room for a set up like this.

[Anonymous No.2684226]

>>2684172
Hey crt I have a fe2111sb which is generally dark but can easily be either too bright.. I'm sure it's because the gamma is fucked in it's firmware. I've thoroughly checked the hardware myself and it's working great.

I've taken apart plenty of crts and apart from it being relatively complex than what I'm used to. it has something to do with constant brightness feature having incorrect values as it's done this since it was factory new, or at least I'm told that.

I should be able to fix it by changing these values but it appears to need some sort of factory tool for it. (Plugs into the de-15 connector) But I don't have a clue how to change these values without it.

Any ideas?

[Anonymous No.2684289]

>>2683070
>When my monitor resumes from sleep it does this every few minutes for about a half hour, then stops.
Perhaps some capacitors are weak when cold.
>Anything I can do about it?
It is possible to find out which ones by warming specific ones up with an hairdryer (yes, this is common practice) and look if it goes away, then warm up some others till you find the ones that cause that.
Don't worry if the dryer interferes with the CRT (causing noise, glitches), there's no great risk of fucking up the whole thing unless you set the dryer to max. power and heat it up too much.

>>2683614
Cool.
Did you daisy chained them or used a distribution amp?

[Anonymous No.2684293]

>>2684226
Found and fixed the issue it was indeed a software problem just not one in the monitors firmware.

Being an older monitor for some reason windows 7 decided to use 1.0 Vp-p (.700v .300v) instead of .7 vp-p (.700 .000) and creating a custom edid fixed this and all of a sudden it was so bright I had to wear shades.

After removing the custom color profile in windows everything is now fine.

[Anonymous No.2684324]

>>2683424
If it's dim from being used a lot, there's nothing you can do. The phosphors are worn out from the usage.

[Anonymous No.2684328]

>>2684324
It can actually run out of electrons to shoot as well believe it or not.

There are a few things you can do but most of them are not for the inexperienced and tbh it isn't really worth the trouble unless your fixing up something real nice.

[Anonymous No.2684329]

>>2680216
tis

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2684783]

>>2684289
Daisy chain. S-Video is fed to the Megaview; Composite is fed to the 27HS420, which feeds the OEV203, which then passes it on to the 14M2MDU and then finally the 32FS13. Only the Mitsubishi is getting audio as it's currently set up.
I'd like to do some RGB chaining if/once I get enough adapters and cables.

I don't want to say how many photos it took before my camera actually decided to focus well enough.

[Anonymous No.2684903]

>>2684783
You are absolutely batshit insane.

I like you.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2684954]

>>2684903
I have two more sets that have video output on them that I'd like to get linked up at some point.

>4 RGB monitors and 3 composite/S-Video sets all going at the same time
I don't even know if that's doable without the breaker tripping.

It'd be pretty cool to get a transcoder and feed RGB/Component to all of them. Only the GXTV would be left out.

[Anonymous No.2685051]

>>2684954
And I thought one 32" was excessive.

[Anonymous No.2685129]

>>2674007
Not necessarily high quality, but yes. Naked tubes with a chassis, as it's known, on the back of them. More common to find multiformat chassis in them as well, esp if new CRTs

[Anonymous No.2685196]

>>2674507
>I thinnk GroovyMAME might have these built in, or something.

Err, no. Groovymame and crt_emudriver go hand-in-hand, but they're not the same thing.

Also, those programs will help you get 15kHz (240p) out of the right PC, but if he has a PC CRT it's not going to accept anything under 31kHz (480p, or 640x480 VGA).

[Anonymous No.2685423]

Not really a CRT question per se but a TV question: I'm looking into getting an HD TV, and that brings with it all of the problems of old games looking terrible. I had been using a very small CRT, but I can't really see details very clearly on it because of the size. I don't really want to get a CRT to replace it because I don't really have the space to spare to get a non-flat TV of the size I need in the location I need it.

So my question regarding HDTVs and retro games is first of all if anyone can point me to specific tvs that have better upscalers built in or something like that, and second of all I was wondering if it'll ever be possible to get, say, ps2 games looking good on an HDTV or if it's doomed to just look awful no matter what.

Sorry about the irrelevant question but couldn't find a better place to ask around here.

[Anonymous No.2685429]

>>2685423
I think people who take this route seriously for retro gaming use external upscalers, like the Framemeister

[Anonymous No.2685434]

>>2685429
That's what I was afraid of, since I can't quite stomach the price on it. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though.

[Anonymous No.2685441]

>>2685434
I'm sure there are more affordable options. I'm just not knowledgeable on that route. Check back in and someone else might have something for you

[Anonymous No.2685460]

>>2685434
>>2684905

[Anonymous No.2685469]

>>2685460
I did notice this thread. I'll probably just end up saving up for the framemeister though I guess. I don't suppose much could replace it.

[Anonymous No.2685485]

Man is there anyway to rotate the image? Its like tilted counter clockwise a bit and it drives me crazy sometimes. Im not sure what setting fixes this normally.

Anyone have any tips? Its a Trinitron

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2685496]

>>2685051
The big Sony is 32'', the Mitsubishi is 37''/35'' viewable.
The former is a measly 165lb compared to the latter's supposed 217lb.

>>2685485
I know some of my FD (flat) Trinitrons have a Tilt option somewhere in the standard menu; Not sure about the older ones.

[Anonymous No.2685741]

>>2685485
Fuck, mine did that and it was a total pain in the ass. Trinitron's often have rotation options in the standard menu, if not find out how to access the service menu on your model and find the option to rotate it. Just make sure to write down your settings on your set before messing with the service menu.

[Anonymous No.2685762]

Thoughts on a regular crt vs arcade monitor? I'm looking to build a cabinet but I don't know what monitor to put in it

[Anonymous No.2685869]

>>2685762
Arcade monitor is essential for a cab. standard CRTs just don't cut it.

[Anonymous No.2685873]

>>2685485
If there are no tilt options in the service menu then you have to rotate the yoke itself. I've done this on one of my CRT's and, while initially terrifying, it's pretty easy to do. I need to make some more adjustments for convergence so I'll take some pics while I'm in there.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2685875]

Turns out the 14M2 isn't nearly as fucked as I thought it was and the above photo/webm make it seem.

It seems that not only does the oddly swapped RGB inputs (R in actually needs Green, G in needs Blue, B in need Red) affect RGB, but also composite decoding. What I assumed was a completely fucked tube is likely just a cable or two connected incorrectly on the inside.
It still has a small amount of discoloration on the bottom left that neither its degauss cycle nor a soldering gun can manage to get rid of completely. Placing the same speaker that corrects the Megaview's problem works here as well, so it should be fixable. Thinking finding a magnet of similar orientation and strength and sticking it/taping it to the tube's shielding could work as a possible fix. That'll have to come later though.
If I can get this thing fixed, I can see it quickly becoming my favorite monitor. Everything is just so sharp and clear.

>>2685869
Unless he's trying to build a cabinet specifically for a certain arcade board, you could make do with a standard CRT well enough; Certain models would obviously be preferable in a case like this, with RGB support being a big one.
This, of course, needs to resolution into account. 15 and 31khz are one thing, but support for 24 may not be as easy.

For something like a MAMEcab, there really isn't any need to go dropping stupid chunk of cash on an arcade monitor.

[Anonymous No.2685885]

>>2683392
Still pending... I'll post results in the next few days. Stay tuned!

[Anonymous No.2685889]

>>2685496
There is a tilt correction in the standard menu. Thanks guys, I was looking in the service menu for it.

[Anonymous No.2685898]

>>2685889
No wait nevermind. I was checking the manual since I'm not home at the moment and it looks like its only for the bigger models in its family, not mine.

Well, how would I manually rotate the yoke then? Is it really worth thr trouble?

[Anonymous No.2686013]

>>2685885
Same Bat time, same Bat channel...

[Anonymous No.2686095]

>>2685898
This is the real basics of rotating the screen. Obviously it'd need to be on when you did it but it's your own judgement on how safe you feel doing it.

[Anonymous No.2686098]

>>2685898
>>2686095
I should have added that moving the yoke up, down, left or right will effect convergence in different ways. It's important to keep it level and rotate it around its axis.

[Anonymous No.2686124]

>>2686098
Alright sounds good, thanks for the pic. Should I wear rubber gloves and stuff? First time opening up a crt.

[Anonymous No.2686138]

>>2686124
I didn't wear gloves myself but I'm quite comfortable diving into electronics when it's on. Do wear rubber soled shoes, though.

[Anonymous No.2686150]

>>2686138
Also what do you mean by keep it level? When I unscrew it, will it just drop down or does it stay in place?

[Anonymous No.2686163]

>>2686150
There are rubber wedges between the wider end of the yoke and the tube; between the wedges and the screw they keep the yoke in place.
The yoke can move up, down, left and right if it's moved back from the wedges or they're removed. When you loosen the screw it will stay in place and may be a little stiff when you first try to rotate it.

[Anonymous No.2686169]

>>2686163
Okay, thanks alot for the explanation. Its only tilted just slightly so it shouldnt take too long. I'll check it out when I get home.

[Anonymous No.2687153]

Any of you guys in the Midwest-ish region want the greatest HUGE FUCKING RGB MONITOR in the history of monitors for cheap.

https://www.k-bid.com/auction/8857/item/2

Not mine, but I've already got one and want to make sure this goes to a CRT /vr/ trooper

[Anonymous No.2687160]

>>2687153
Forgot I had this pic of mine in action.

40 inch 4:3 Pioneer PDP v402.

[Anonymous No.2687168]

>>2676419

I'm no good with geometry issues which I ASSUME it would be. How about trying to go into those settings? Degauss + Enter should open up that secret menu where you can fuck around, otherwise I think you may have to resort to faggotry such as adjusting knobs inside your CRT, but what do I know? Absolutely nothing.

[Anonymous No.2687170]

>>2684783

For fucks sake that's a beautiful picture.

[Anonymous No.2687189]

Took a picture of my Trinitron for the first time. This looks pretty cool

[Rock-aholic No.2687193]

I have these 2 CRT TV's, not sure which to use for all my systems and which one to sell off.

http://imgur.com/a/p7Tjr

I have the 27" hooked up currently, but not sure.

can anyone help with a reccomendation. I don't know shit about this, just heard sony trinitrons are the bees knees for retro games.

[Anonymous No.2687297]

>>2687193
I have that exact 27" model. It's pretty good, but to be honest, it's actually a bit too big for my liking. The 20" model would be perfect for my needs.

[Anonymous No.2687310]

>>2687193
what connections ?

[Anonymous No.2687316]

>>2687310
Both models have composite, S-video, and component.

[Rock-aholic No.2687324]

>>2687297
too big for picture or too big your your entertainment set up? just curious if the 27" model distorts or blurrs the picture. from what i understand the trinitrons use aperature grills for picture, but im unsure for certain.

>>2687310
Composite, i want to move to Svideo, just have to find someone who would do my modding. i don't trust myself. would likley fuck it all up

[Anonymous No.2687337]

>>2687324
Both seem to be exactly the same (not really surprising since they use the same chassis), and both are SD only (no 480p support over component).
choose your favorite size I guess.

[Rock-aholic No.2687342]

>>2687337
>>2687337
No 480p support? I'm looking to record footage, should I shift to S-video for a higher quality 'clean' image? only 360p in composite?

I tested my recording on a shitty plug n play atari thing and this is what came of it;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wOsmCpVmOk

the plug n play is broke dick itself, so i get that its all glitching out, but its clean right?

[Anonymous No.2687353]

>>2687342
Composite and s-video only support 480i (interlaced), Component can support 480p aka progressive scan, was mostly used by high end DVD players. Started being used on Xbox, PS2 and GC.

This has nothing to do with youtube playback res.

[Rock-aholic No.2687356]

>>2687353
oh ok, cool. thanks. As far as my CRT situation goes, I have the 27" model hooked up. the thing looks beautiful. I've seen that there is a 32" out there, and also to avoid widescreen CRT's, any other models I should be on the lookout for?

[Anonymous No.2687416]

>>2687153
>https://www.k-bid.com/auction/8857/item/2

That thing looks delicious, that's a long ass drive for me though

I hope another trooper gets it

[Anonymous No.2687516]

My PVM occasionally makes a little click (more like a snap than a switching click) and the picture distorts slightly for a moment. It's not an issue at all right now, only happens once every few hours, but I wonder if it could be the very beginnings of a V/H board failure or something of the sort?

[Anonymous No.2688067]

>>2686095
>Opening a CRT without being an electrician
Are you trying to kill him?

[Anonymous No.2688585]

Hey guys, not sure if this is the correct thread to ask this but anyways.

So I want to stream retro gaming with my friends and I want to use my actual consoles using RGB like this

Console > Scart to Component > Component splitter (to have picture on my tv and on the pc as well) > El Gato using the component adapter.

will that setup work? or is there a better way to achieve this?

I haven't bought anything yet, I want to make sure that it will work before throwing money.

[Anonymous No.2688612]

>>2688585
Sounds like it should work, but it technically wouldn't be RGB. A cheap adapter may introduce input lag as well.

[Anonymous No.2688637]

>or is there a better way to achieve this?

depends what your TV, computer and budget situation is. my setup is RGB, but I have an RGB monitor and an internal capture card

[Anonymous No.2688643]

>>2688637
I have a Sony PVM 2030, and a normal TV Trinitron (forgot the model) with component output, budget is not an issue, all my consoles are RGB modded (well, the ones that need it) my computer doesn't have an internal capture card tho, which one would you recommend?

[Anonymous No.2688656]

>>2688643
oh okay cool. here's my setup as an example:
Console > Sync Strike > VGA Splitter > 1. Sony PVM (via a VGA-to-BNC4 cable) - 2. PEXHDCAP
with some switches mixed in to switch between consoles. I'm not sure the sync strike is necessary if all your consoles output csync. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but that's how I play & capture in RGB

[Anonymous No.2688657]

What's the best way to connect stereo (red and white RCA plugs) to mono (one white RCA jack)?

[Anonymous No.2688665]

>>2688657
The "best" way would be a true stereo adder circuit so that the channels aren't fighting each other.

In reality, you can just use a Y cable and plug them into each other. It's not really a big deal, and if you're struggling with this I question your understanding of the different types of signals involved in your hobby and which cables carry them.

[Anonymous No.2688674]

After months of reading how great CRT's are I just couldn't take it anymore. I even dreamed about having my own CRT... Today I finally bought one, a Sony Trinitron KV-29 X5D, pic related.

And holy shit have I been missing out all those years. I mean I played on CRt's up until my late teens, but the difference a Trinitron makes is phenomenal. This isn't supposed to be a Trinitrion cock sucking comment, I'm genuinely amazed at how good the games look. Every color is rich, and even the black is actually black. Everything looks much more lively than on an HD TV.

So thanks /vr/ for making me buy a CRT. My girlfriend hates me now though, but sacrifices had to be made.

[Anonymous No.2688676]

>>2688656
Ahh! I see, I'm gonna try that then. Thanks Anon!

[Anonymous No.2688892]

>>2688665
I've been using something pic related (top) for years until I realized that one of the channels dropped out unless to held it/pressed against it in a certain position. I'm thinking of switching to pic related (bottom) instead

Also, I recently read this: http://www.rane.com/note109.html

[Anonymous No.2688903]

>>2688674
If you think that's good, wait until you witness true, glorious RGB.

[Anonymous No.2688918]

>>2688665
this
just pick up a ne5534 or use half a tl072 opamp

I could point to point wire this in under 5 minutes

[Anonymous No.2688951]

>>2688903
Not the guy that bought the Sony, but I've been reading about RGB and I can't find any actual things that clearly shows how to set it up.

[Anonymous No.2688985]

>>2688951
Depends on what type of inputs it has.

If you are in the US, and it is from around 1998ish or newer, more likely than not it has component input (the Red Green Blue colored TV holes).

If it does, all you need is a SCART cable for your console (most commonly used for Genesis, SNES and Saturn), a SCART to YpBpR/YUB adapter, and Component cables (the Red Green Blue cables). You also likely need a Scart Adapter or Switch of sorts to so you can use the Red & White audio cables.

That is if your TV has component input. If not S-Video will yield you your best video quality.

[Anonymous No.2689004]

>>2688985
That's pushing $80 for a better picture. Is it really that much better?

[Anonymous No.2689023]

>>2689004
Yes. It really is.

[Anonymous No.2689038]

>>2689004
That all depends on how you feel about picture quality and retro gaming in general.

The picture is really that much better. Feel free to google image composite vs scart RGB and check out the pics there.

But if its not that big of a deal to you, don't go down the well- ESPECIALLY if you dont want or have the money to spend.

BUT I will say it is a fun hobby if you are into it. Hunting down PVMs and similar RGB monitors, daisy chaining adapters to converters to other adapters JUST to get the scanlines you want, searching for various cables like a hobo for a quarter.
BUT if you just want a nicer video in an easy way I HIGHLY suggest going with S-Video. The picture is blatantly better than composite and all you have to do is buy the single S-Video cable for whatever console.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2689090]

>>2688643
>normal TV Trinitron (forgot the model) with component output
You might wanna double check that; Pretty sure just about any consumer Trinitron with video output is only going to offer composite or MAYBE s-video. I don't believe any of them will have component output.

>>2689023
Pretty

[Anonymous No.2689157]

>>2689090
Early 2000s Trinitron- the ones with the silver colored housings (especially ones that are 27in or bigger) such as in >>2687193
usually have one set of component inputs in the rear.

[Anonymous No.2689158]

>>2689157
They're talking about OUTputs.

Though I do believe >>2688643 really meant to say inputs.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2689224]

>>2689157
I'm aware; That's how I got >>2684783 and >>2683614 to work. First thing in the chain is a 27'' HD Trinitron. The older 32'' doesn't and is forced to be the last in the chain. Actually a big part of why it was such a bother to set up; Both do have component inputs though.

[Anonymous No.2689318]

Okay so I found a new LG Flatron today. It's smaller than my current LG which I was pretty pleased with but as soon as I hooked it up my jaw dropped to the floor. It's unbelievably crisp and sharp, almost too sharp in some games. It looks beautiful.

I don't know which one to keep so I'm going to mess around with it some more. Size is a factor obviously and there's a tint in the image that bothers me and I know I probably don't know how to fix.

My crappy phone camera doesn't do it any justice.

[Anonymous No.2689320]

>>2689318
The TV itself being smaller is something I thought I'd be happy with because I could put it on my desk but my other set was a pretty perfect size to begin with, even if it meant I had to find it it's own spot.

[Anonymous No.2689323]

>>2689320
Need to buy a decent camera just for CRT photos.

[Anonymous No.2689324]

>>2689323
The CRT itself. Ignore cable mess I already cleaned that up.

[Anonymous No.2689335]

On a SONY PVM 20L5. I could just play MG1 on MGS3, but I'm too much of a hardwarefag. It's a 60hz English copy.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2689337]

>>2689318
>and there's a tint in the image that bothers me
It may have a color temp setting(Cool, Neutral, Warm) that may be able to get rid of it.
Looks too good to be composite, but if NTSC, there may be a tint/hue setting that could

>>2689323
I know that feel.

[Anonymous No.2689339]

>>2689335

Second pic. Sorry about the wire mess.

[Anonymous No.2689345]

>>2689337
Sorry, I'm sleep deprived right now. What I meant was tilt. The image is a bit tilted or distorted on top and bottom. At least on my PS1 and Megadrive. On my SFC it's perfect.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2689382]

>>2689345
Weird that it affects some systems and ignores others. Perhaps a difference in active area/overscan making it more obvious on one than there other?

[Anonymous No.2689430]

>>2688674
That's not even anything yet. The moment I plugged up my 1chip SNES and Sega MD into a PVM via RGB, I was blown away. It really does make such a phenomenal difference.

[Anonymous No.2689501]

>>2688674
>red buttons MD2
>scart adapter lying around

get a RGB scart cable and 60hz mod that console.

[Anonymous No.2689565]

>>2688903
>>2689430
>>2689501

Okay guys, I'm in PAL land and every TV here has a SCART input. So I just ordered a simple RGB cable for my Mega Drive 2. Is that all I have to do to get a better picture quality on my Trinitron? Is it really that simple?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2689568]

Hey /vr/, I bought a Sony BVM 20F1U and PVM 20L5 from the Chicago Harpo Studios auction. Not sure how many hours the BVM will have or if the PVM will be any brighter/newer than one I already have, but whatever the results I will probably have at least one badass CRT for sale in the Jacksonville, FL area.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2689572]

>>2689565
Probably yes, though sometime SCART cables can be wired cheaply for composite only and not have the required pins wired for RGB.

[Anonymous No.2689583]

>Found an IBM 2248 - 275
Is it gud enough?

[Anonymous No.2689594]

>>2689568
How much?

[Anonymous No.2689604]

>>2689572
Dude don't scare me :(

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2689607]

>>2689594
How much did I pay for the BVM and PVM? Around $27. Then I paid about $400 worth of shipping to get the fat fucks down to Florida from Chicago.

I'll probably sell one of the PVMs for about $300, maybe less.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2689618]

>>2689604
Just read descriptions closely before purchasing, especially on ebay. You can always make your own if you're a soldering freak. And yes, you will pay for quality. Thin, unshielded cables are only okay for very short runs. Analog RGB signals are very susceptible to noise intrusion from audio running alongside and RF noise from the surrounding environment.

[Anonymous No.2689756]

How much do you need to spend to get a good CRT then lads, in £ please.

[Anonymous No.2689781]

>>2689756

Do you mean just a good consumer model or a PVM or something?

[Anonymous No.2689818]

>>2689781
Consumer model

[Anonymous No.2689885]

>>2689818

I spent $25 on my 24" Trinitron, so that's like 12 Britbucks?

My 36" was free though, someone just put it out on the curb.

The things aren't really in demand. I don't really know the environment in your area, but if you keep your eyes open I'll bet you can find people just giving them away. I mean, thrift stores around here won't even accept CRTs, that's how little demand there is.

[Anonymous No.2689987]

Yay or nay?

[Anonymous No.2689990]

>>2689987
nay, here check this out
>>2689920

[Anonymous No.2690049]

>>2689987

That's a FST, right?

[Anonymous No.2690051]

>>2690049
yeah i guess
its written on it

[Anonymous No.2690107]

>>2688918
I should probably look into an adder circuit then. Maybe I can ask my electronics professors for help

[Anonymous No.2690131]

I have a curved screen trinitron from 1998 and I love it, but I really want better quality and the geometry is going out. Also I can't find a PVM anywhere in my area.

I can however easily get the Wega FD trinitrons for a great price. How are these? I dont care about gun games, and if I really did, I'd just pull out my old Trinitron whenever I need it. I was wanting to do scart to component. Does anyone else do this? How is the quality?

[Anonymous No.2690262]

>>2690131
So I found a HDcrt, the KD-30XS955. Are these good for retro games, or do they suffer the same issues as HDTVs? It's 1080i

[Anonymous No.2690298]

>>2672482
Question

Why wouldn't you buy an LCD with an RGB converter for your systems?

Is it worse or something?

[Anonymous No.2690323]

>>2690298
scanlines, processing lag, conversion lag, scaling quality

[Anonymous No.2690429]

>>2690262
Same issues unfortunately.

[Anonymous No.2690440]

Found a dell p1130 on craigslist for 15 is it worth getting?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2690632]

>>2690298
If this is bait, it's not very good. I suspect it isn't and you're asking honestly (it comes up in almost every thread), so let's expand on >>2690323's reply.

1. Scanlines make pixel art look better to the human eye (subjective opinion held by many, of course this isn't a unanimous feeling).

2. CRT monitors have little to none/infinitesimal/immeasurable/unnoticeable lag. Fighting game and shmup players love this.

3. CRT monitors can normally handle a wide variety of resolutions, by this I mean combinations of horizontal and vertical geometries and refresh rates, both 4:3 and 16:9.

4. LCD monitors' built-in scalars generally do a very poor job of stretching, shrinking and matching the refresh rate of retro game consoles to certain resolutions. Often the output of consoles is blurred or distorted in some fashion by flatpanel scalers (color, geometry, sharpness, distinct lack of scanlines).

[Anonymous No.2690643]

Alright I just bought a CRT monitor and there's a weird pink tint on it with diagonal lines going across at all times, tried all the settings and nothing would fix it. Is it fucked? Or is there an easy fix for this?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2690668]

>>2690643
Diagonal lines lead me to think that perhaps the input source (or something in the input path) is wonky. The pink tint can be literally anything. Have a webm?

[Anonymous No.2690682]

>>2690668
Best I could do is a pic. Its even like that when not connected to anything

[Anonymous No.2690691]

>>2690682
One more pic

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2690715]

>>2690691
That's a Dell computer monitor, which is somewhat different in nature to a TV set. What's feeding it? I'm assuming a computer because that looks like the default Windows XP background. Are you using a VGA cable?

[Anonymous No.2690736]

>>2690715
Yes its a computer. And yes its a VGA cable.

[Anonymous No.2690849]

>>2690262
I have that TV. It's shit for retro. It's ok-ish for PS2, and good for everything else above it. Mine has some serious focus and convergence issues, though, so it doesn't look as sharp as it ought to.

[Anonymous No.2690854]

>>2690440
Very yes. Grab one, and make it display 240p (real or fake with scanlines, doesn't matter), then post pics for us to fap to.

[Anonymous No.2690861]

>>2673980

That ain't a CRT, bro... That shit's a Lite-Brite toy.

[Anonymous No.2690993]

>>2689987
I decided to get it anyway.

It's certainly not as good as I expected, but it's really light and does the job.

It's only 14 inches and it was free.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2691046]

>>2690993
Looks a bit too bright to me.

[Anonymous No.2691052]

>>2689987

I used to play NES on a very similar TV.

Good stuff

[Anonymous No.2691076]

Now it's too dark, I'm really not good with these kind of things

[Anonymous No.2691118]

>>2691076
Just play instead of trying to get it perfect.

[Anonymous No.2691145]

>>2691118
But I keep dying.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2691218]

>>2691145
Then git gud

[Anonymous No.2691434]

>>2690682
>>2690691
You have to adjust the screen grid voltage (G2), it's labeled as SCREEN on the flyback transformer.
If that doesn't help then the tube is kill.

[Anonymous No.2691480]

>>2687516
Upon closer inspection, I think whats happening when it clicks is the screen is going blank for a single refresh cycle.

[Anonymous No.2692271]

>>2691434
Yeah I was hoping I didn't have to open it because I'm too much of a pussy. Plus it doesn't help that the guy who gave it to me told me he had it on 24/7.

[Anonymous No.2692310]

>>2692271
Meant for
>>2691434

[Anonymous No.2692956]

Can someone recommend me good s-video switch? Something that isnt complete ass and has at least four ports are only things I want.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2693175]

Need more BNC adapters.

>>2692956
Pelican's offerings seem pretty decent from what I've seen. I have a Gamestop version of their HD System Selector(3 Composite/S-Vid/Component+1Composite/S-Video) which works wonderfully. I wouldn't be surprised if their earlier models weren't decent as well.
I see a composite+s-video one with 5 separate inputs(also seems to have a Gamestop version) that would fit your requirements. It has a place for power, but I'm pretty sure that's just for what looks to be an RF converter.

[Anonymous No.2693254]

>>2693175
can never have enough BNC adapters.

I've got 7 but want atleast 3 more so one setup will always have an output and input so i dont need to hot swap. I'm fortunate enough to have a shop around the corner sell them. I've spent atleast $30 between my BNCs and 90 degree BNCs

[Anonymous No.2693291]

>>2693254
Lol, I bought about 25 off ebay and I'm still running out.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2693301]

>>2693254
I'm about to order a batch of 20($5.60) from ebay; Technically only need 10 or so more for what I have in mind, but having some extras on top of that would be nice.

Some more RCA cables would probably be useful as well.

[Anonymous No.2693860]

>>2692956
Extron

[Anonymous No.2693886]

Do rgb monitors larger than like 27 inches even exist? I know they do, but its hard to believe. I can't even find a single pvm in my area. I even do a search of every craigslist area around me and I find nothing. And ebay sellers are ridiculous, I'm not gonna pay like 300 dollars for something thats like 14 inches.

Im about to just give up and get a Trinitron with component and convert scart. Does anyone else do this?

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2694064]

>>2689335
>>2689339
There's an English version of the MSX version? All I want to do after TPP is replay MG1.

[Anonymous No.2694073]

>>2688665
Any idea what the R1, R2, and Rf values should be?

[Princess !dicks9T6Xo No.2694303]

>>2689987
qt af

[Anonymous No.2694703]

>>2691480
Sounds like HV arcing over somewhere. Not much to worry about if it happens rarely, but every few hours seems a bit excessive.

[Anonymous No.2694710]

>>2694073
Vo = -Rf * (V1/R1 + V2/R2)

So for plain stereo->mono without amplification, R1=R2=2*Rf.

[Anonymous No.2694798]

>>2673980
>13 inch
>33cm
What's the fucking point?
Even as a kid in the early 90s I played my SNES on a 60+cm TV.

[Anonymous No.2694834]

>>2694710
I meant the actual, numerical values (the wattage rating would also be appreciated, ex: 1/2 W, 1/4 W, etc). I'm planning the build the actual summing amplifier circuit.

[Anonymous No.2694880]

>>2693886
RGB monitors are not common at larger than 20". And no way is a 14" worth $300. Keep hanging on and you'll find something.

A consumer trinitron with SCART is never a bad idea.

Also, re sizing, >>2694798 is good and wrong. Desktop PVMs at 8"-10" and 450TVL are portable, crisp, colourful, and great fun.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2694884]

>>2694880
>Desktop PVMs at 8"-10" and 450TVL are portable, crisp, colourful, and great fun.
True shit. I'm loving this 14'' 600TVL set.

[Anonymous No.2695216]

Need help!
have the option to pickup a 32 inch trinitron KV-HS510 for free. I'm looking into it mainly to play SSBmelee lag free(inb4 6th gen). Here are the details

http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-kv-hs510/

its a 4:3 but it is also hi-scan so i'm not sure if that will contribute to lag. Everything I have found has not been helpful so I'm crossing my fingers here.

[Anonymous No.2695227]

>>2693886
>>2694880
>>2694884

If "size matters" to you then you are probably better off with the Trinitron. A trinitron+ scart to component is comparable to a PVM (not equal to, but not that far off).

NEC XM29 and Sony PVM2730, are the only ones I can think of off the top of my head and they are few and far between.

A trinitron + Component/Scart will likely be cheaper, easier to get everything together, and overall less trouble. Plus if you want you can go as big as 36in (non-hd) and 40in(hd)

[crossboarder from /v/ No.2695229]

>>2695216
>6th gen

[Anonymous No.2695235]

>>2695229
help a brotha out

[Anonymous No.2695253]

Hello, I was wondering if any of you out there had any experience with Panasonic monitors. I've been keeping an eye on this one, and was wondering if it was worth giving it a try. It does RGB which is the main reason it peaked my interest.
(Not my pics btw)

[Anonymous No.2695254]

>>2695253
BNC inputs.

[Anonymous No.2695256]

>>2695254
And the model number.

[Anonymous No.2695291]

>>2695216
If it's anything like my 30XS955, as long as you have component cables and output at 480p, you should have close to no lag. I play Melee at a relatively good level and can pull off advanced techniques with ease on my TV. Then again, I don't main the space animals, who have a lot of frame-perfect moves.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2695298]

>>2695227
>>2693886
>NEC XM29 and Sony PVM2730, are the only ones I can think of off the top of my head
NEC's XM and XP series both have monitors up to the 37'' range; Sony has the 2950, 3230, and a widescreen BVM. Mitsubishi has its presentation monitors, Megaview or otherwise.

A decently sized consumer Trinitron and a transcoder would without a doubt be cheaper and easier to setup.

[Anonymous No.2695302]

>>2695291
thank you kind anon for an answer. Component cables make a world of difference i hear. I can wavedash, multishine, and L-cancel but its hard on a LED.
>i'm a spacies main ;_;

[Anonymous No.2695367]

>Play Super Famicom on my CRT
>Screen suddenly goes grey
>Hook up a different console to that CRT, works fine
>Hook up the Super Famicom to another CRT
>There's color
I don't understand. Also, the colors came back after half an hour or so with no reason. I'm using RGB scart on my consoles if anyone wants to explain what happened.

[Anonymous No.2695385]

How's the quality with scart to hdmi converters?

[Anonymous No.2695410]

>>2695385
Generally speaking they aren't that great, but if you don't want to spend the 300 bucks on a Framemeister or get a CRT then they're alright.

[Anonymous No.2695442]

>>2695410
Yeah I have zero space for even a small crt, but for a converter and cables it's still pretty pricey.

[Anonymous No.2695509]

>>2695254
>>2695256
If I had to guess I'd say it's a different form factor of that one panasonic that I can't remember the model number of. I'd pick it up if it's priced low.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2695606]

>>2695367
If its a euro tv or something, could it be a bad connection on the detect pin combined with possibly using luma sync? A bad connection combined with an NTSC composite signal on something that only supports PAL?

I was chaining stuff in my attic and couldn't figure out why I was getting a mostly grey/black picture over composite until I realized the cable I was using used luma instead of c-vid.

This is all guesses and assuming you mean a greyscale picture and not just solid grey.

[Anonymous No.2695607]

>>2695606
Yes, greyscale. The weird thing is that everything was working fine then it just turned grey. Also, I left it on for like 10 minutes and the color came back on it's own.

I can't tell what's the cause here at all.

[Anonymous No.2695635]

Any reason to get monitor like the dell E771p over a trinitron?

I'm not really sure what the differences are between monitors and tvs, but this >>2682846
looks nice

[Anonymous No.2695638]

>>2695607
bad pin 16 connection maybe. You then only get composite signal and if your tv doesn't accept ntsc (or if somehow your cable uses luma as sync), you get B/W pic.

[Anonymous No.2695654]

>>2695638
My other CRT doesn't have this problem, so it could be the connection of the TV itself, but on the other hand other consoles work fine with this TV in RGB.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2695757]

>>2695654
SCART connectors are apparently very finicky things, especially when removing and inserting cables often.

This, again, is really only likely if you're dealing with something with native SCART. RGB Monitors that connect over a break out cable only care about RGBS, ground, and possibly audio.
Luma sync is also only likely to be seen on 'higher quality' 3rd party cables, as composite video sync is the standard and the norm.

[Anonymous No.2695794]

Sony wega kv-20fs120 what do you guys think about this? It has component output and also an "enhanced mode" which makes the image 16:9 widescreen.

Looking for low Input lag when playing melee. Also want to know how good the picture would be with composite cables for wii

>inb4 not retro

[Anonymous No.2695817]

>>2695794

>not retro

For real though, it's not and you should feel bad or something.

Wegas are aperture grill and generally very good consumer TVs for gaming purposes. It displays in 480i which is native resolution for the GCN so you should be fine in the lag department.

>Composite
Do you mean component? Using Wii composite cables shouldn't change the picture at all from the GCN's composite cables

[Anonymous No.2695835]

>>2695817
I feel terrible.
Shit I did mean component it just always comes out as composite whenever I write it. How will wii component cables effect it?

[Anonymous No.2695864]

>>2695835

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GwVn_u74Gk

Of course this isn't really how it'll look on a CRT so I'm not sure why I'm posting it

[Anonymous No.2695879]

>>2672482
Why is everyone obsessed with fat aperture grille scanlines?

Also, I don't remember anyone playing their games on a PVM or BVM back then, what's the point?

[Anonymous No.2695920]

>>2695442
If you are converting Scart, why would you convert Scart to HDMI when you can convert Scart to Component instead? Wouldnt that be more natural?

Other than needing to split out the audio I'd think that would yield a better result. Can anyone give any more insight?

Also has anyone got their hands on those HDRetrovision component cables? I don't want them but I'm curious to see how they hold up.

[Anonymous No.2695926]

>>2695879
>Why is everyone obsessed with fat aperture grille scanlines?

Some peoples*

>Also, I don't remember anyone playing their games on a PVM or BVM back then, what's the point?

This isn't a 70s low-end TV nostalgia thread, and people like to use high-quality monitors.

[Anonymous No.2695943]

>>2695879
>Also, I don't remember anyone playing their games on a PVM or BVM back then
Maybe because they cost they had 4 digit price tags when they were new.

[Anonymous No.2695950]

>>2695943
>they cost
Remove that bit, I should really start proof reading my posts when I change stuff mid sentence

[Anonymous No.2696104]

>>2695864
>>2695835
>>2695817


I know its not really retro but I thought i'd ask here. Is the gamecube component clone cable have any progress to output component instead of HDMI?

Most posts I see are of it showing off an HDMI port but i just want component for my cube at a reasonable price. wouldnt mind soldering much

[Anonymous No.2696343]

tfw i have scart cables for my ps2 (pic related) but not for my softmodded wii

[Anonymous No.2696367]

i could get some early 2000's dell pc monitors (1024x768 iirc) for free
would it be better than using a HDTV which also has VGA

this is for my dreamcast

[Anonymous No.2696627]

>>2696367
Yes. The Dreamcast absolutely shines on a PC CRT.

[Anonymous No.2696685]

>>2696343
ur kawaii

[Anonymous No.2696702]

>>2675370
Read Fudoh's website hazard-city. Has a whole section devoted to upscalers and linedoublers.

Basically a linedoubler will take a 240p or 480i source and effectively 'double' every scanning line, so you get a 480p out. You can then use that on enhanced definition/medium res displays, like a PC CRT. If you have the money to blow, apparently the earlier xrgb units like the 2, 2 plus and 3 are phenomenal.

[Anonymous No.2696756]

>>2695879
>Also, I don't remember anyone playing their games on a PVM or BVM back then, what's the point?

The point isn't to recreate what we played it on or I'd be playing on a shitty blurry Curtis Mathes TV

The point is to get the best display possible for the games we play. For this hardware, that does not lie in HD displays for a wide number of reasons.

[Anonymous No.2696778]

>>2696343
Gorgeous Picture. Name of game plz? Is ths PS1 or SNES?

I'm using Component>VGA>Super Emotia>Scart for Wii U, BC PS3, and Gamecube.

[Anonymous No.2696783]

>>2696343
Sorry, also meant to bring up that I'm not even sure if there are NA/JP Scart cables that would work on US Wiis. I tried buying an OG Wii Scart cable, and I believe it ended up being an EU cable, because the picture was all green and flippy.

>>2696104
Is the gamecube component clone cable ever going to be sold at all to the general public?

I'm surprised nobody has cracked this code, sold them for $100 a pop and made a killing. With the inflation of the cable $100 would be considered a "bargain", sadly.

[Anonymous No.2696792]

>>2696783
I don't think the NTSC Wiis output RGB at all, only S-Video? That's default, not even sure if there's a force or workaround.

[Anonymous No.2696834]

>>2696792
I don't know if there is an official work around but thats why I just gave up and went with Super Emotia

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2697104]

>>2696792
>I don't think the NTSC Wiis output RGB at all, only S-Video? That's default, not even sure if there's a force or workaround.
NTSC Wiis will do composite, s-video, and component
PAL models will do composite, RGB, and component,
I believe all it takes to get RGB on a softmodded NTSC Wii is to do a region change on it, effectively making it a PAL model.

[Anonymous No.2697160]

How good does a PS3 looks playing Playstation 1 and 2 games on a SD CRT?

I want to play Playstation fighters, but I only own fightsticks on the PS3.
The Playstation games are really cheap too and I'm on a budget.

[Anonymous No.2697212]

>>2697160
I believe the PS3 will only output 480i, so your PS1 240p games won't look quite right. Dat 3D *and* flicker is not a good combo IMO.

[Anonymous No.2697238]

>>2697212
Do you think the PSTV can output 240?

I want to get that Disgaea game I might look at it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2697241]

>>2697238
Extremely doubtful.

The PSP does with PS1 games though.

[Anonymous No.2697369]

>>2697160
Back from trying it, really looks like shit.

[Anonymous No.2697374]

>>2697369
Yer, CRT or no CRT it's amazing how turning 240p into 480i can ruin your day.

[Anonymous No.2697416]

>>2697160
The PS2 always display PS games at 240p and also some PS2 games too (ICO)

Mega Man X Collection and Darkstalkers Collection are mixed between 480i and 240p (the menus are 480i and the games are 240p.

Megaman Anniversary Collection and Alpha Anthology display 480i and they looks like shit, so avoid them if you want to save money.

You can just get a PS2 to play your PS games in backward compatibility and stop using a shitty PS3.

>>2697238
The PSTV is 1080i.

[Anonymous No.2697637]

>>2696783
I have a PAL wii.

[Anonymous No.2697816]

Where can I go to find a PVM for a decent price? Been checking ebay/craigslist for a month and I haven't found anything

[Anonymous No.2697940]

>>2694703
I noticed today after turning the set off that the sorta staticy noise the tube makes was interrupted by that same ticking noise a few times, maybe 3 or 4 during that staticy process, and every time it did the tube would stop making the staticy noise for a second or so. Internal arcing of some sort seems logical.

So since I don't know what the fuck I'm talking about, what could be arcing and how would I go about fixing it? Could it be just get the dust out?

[Anonymous No.2698048]

>>2696783
I

[Anonymous No.2698050]

>>2696783
I had my NSTC Wii softmoded so I could change the region to PAL and use SCART on it, I don't remember the exact method but it wasn't nice, it involved installing pal versions of the firmware and shit.

[Anonymous No.2698074]

>>2697940
Any parts carrying HV can arc over. Flyback, HV lead, tube socket, or even inside the tube itself... the latter is obviously difficult to fix.

Cleaning would be a good first step, but look carefully for arc patterns in the dust first. Especially clean the tube socket and around the HV lead, make sure the lead doesn't touch any other metal parts, and apply silicone grease everywhere. Pic related is the best imo.

[Anonymous No.2698095]

If you ask someone knowledgeable what the best CRT monitor is they will probably say the Sony FW900.

Is there an equivalent for CRT TVs?

[Anonymous No.2698104]

>>2695635
It doesn't matter, just make sure whatever you get can be made to display sufficiently bright enough for 240p without looking dim.

[Anonymous No.2698221]

>>2697816
Define "decent price" internet retro gamer inflation has been pushing prices on everything along these lines up. If you arent prepared to pay $150ish for a PVM, you should probably stay in Trinitron land.

How long until people start selling their Trinitrons for a premium? 3 years?

[Anonymous No.2698239]

>>2698221
$150 would be fine. Ebay is like $400+ though for a 20", and all I've seen on CL is 14"

[Anonymous No.2698472]

>>2698095
Opionions differ. I'd say something like the BVM-D20F1U/A/E. Multiformat, tiny dot pitch. Others might see this as too crisp, and want something with less definition for older, 240p titles.

I hear there are super-rare PC CRTs that beat the FW900, too. Some of the Eizo top-end ones, for example. There's threads on reddit, i think. I'm not entirely sure about this, though i'd love to find even a FW900 :)

>>2698221
yeah, 3 years if that.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2698538]

>>2698095
>>2698472
>20F1
It's not Multiformat, but the E1 beats it out in line count.
The D24E1WU supposedly uses the same tube as the FW900, so that'd probably contender as well, if you're including professional equipment and the like.

On the consumer end, depending on what you're willing to include, perhaps one of the SFP Sonys?

[Anonymous No.2698576]

>>2698538
The BVM-20F1U/A/E aren't multiformat.

The BVM-D20F1 sets *are* multiformat. The whole BVM-D series is. The D24 and D32 sets aren't the only ones in that series.

http://www.broadcaststore.com/pdf/model/670625/bvm_dseries.pdf


There's actually a BVM-D9H5A set i'm looking at making a bid for. Might be interesting, though the line count is no higher than the PVM-8045 or the Ikegami TR10 sets/

:)

[Anonymous No.2698646]

Are Mangavox CRTs good for melee or they to shit tier in quality?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2698989]

>>2698576
I was referring to the E1 not being MultiFormat, I'm aware of the D series and all that.
The D part of the 20F1 just didn't get quoted for whatever reason

[Anonymous No.2699049]

r8 my new CRT

Planning on wiring up an adapter from S-Video to Commodore Video this weekend

[Anonymous No.2699172]

>>2698989
>[D]20F1
>It's not Multiformat, but the E1 beats it out in line count.
>The D part of the 20F1 just didn't get quoted for whatever reason

Errr, what were you trying to post? The BVM-D20F1 *is* a multiformat set. The entire D series is multiformat. The BVM-20F1, without the D, is 15kHz only.

[Anonymous No.2699174]

>>2699172
I know you know that, btw, just trying to sort out what you meant.

[Anonymous No.2699179]

>>2698646
IIRC, earlier Magnavox sets were made in the US, and were pretty gud. Later models were rebadged Chinese rubbish.

>>2699049
I'll rate that: I rate it! Nice pickup.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2699620]

>>2699172
>>2699174
>It's not Multiformat, but the E1 beats it out in line count.
The first it refers to the 20E1, which does not have a D series counter part. The second it refers to the F1, which does have Multiformat support but a lower line count than the E1.

[Anonymous No.2699672]

i should really cover up the paint marker with stickers or something

anyways heres an artsy image i took for a promotional kinda thing

[Anonymous No.2699692]

[Anonymous No.2699740]

>>2699049
>Commodore 1702
This nigga here knows what's up.

[Anonymous No.2699763]

1702/1 legion reporting for duty.

[Anonymous No.2700316]

Hey /crt/, it worth getting a PVM if you aren't gonna use it for RGB? I don't want to get into RGB and SCART and all that business (At least not atm), but I still want a high end TV to play on. If I want to get the best picture out of S-Video and composite consoles is the switch worth it? I see some cheap 20" ones on craigslist in my area.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2700378]

>>2700316
Composite and S-Video both look wonderful on PVMs, but that isn't to say that they can't look great on normal consumer stuff as well.

>I see some cheap 20" ones on craigslist in my area.
What do you consider cheap?

[Anonymous No.2700382]

Is there a master list of recommended RGB monitors out there?

I just found a monitor, good RGB brand I'm familiar with but model that I had not heard of.

[Anonymous No.2700594]

Don't mind me, just testing my new Sony RX-100 camera.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2700613]

>>2700594
>RX-100
You're killing me here.
I want one but can't bring myself to drop that much money on it.

[Anonymous No.2700620]

>>2700613
Well, to be fair, I lied when I said new. I actually got it used at Best Buy, heavily discounted of course.

It sometimes pays to work there.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2700636]

>>2700620
>heavily discounted of course.
How heavily discounted?
The nearly $500 asking price new from Amazon is just insane, and ~$250 used isn't -much- better.

I need to get a new camera, my current one is just causing more problems than decent pictures at this point.

[Anonymous No.2700638]

>>2700636
180 burgerbucks

[Anonymous No.2700641]

>>2700378
$45? I also think I saw another for $20, but I can't find it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2700643]

>>2700638
I could deal with that.


>>2700641
For a 20'' that'd be a pretty nice deal, and wouldn't be too bad for a 14''.

[Anonymous No.2700815]

>Have PVM (L2)
>Have old ATI Card (2400)
>CRT emudriver in W7, switchres and all that shit for muh weird arcade resolutions
>PVM absolutely hates syncing to some of the lower ones. For instance, 240x360 is fine but 240x320 is pain

Is this a software or hardware issue? Is something configured wrong or is this just the limitation of my hardware?

Also fuck these things for not saving geometry/deflection settings. I've gotta make drastic changes to my picture size when going from 480i svid to low res RGB.

[Anonymous No.2700821]

>>2700594
gorgeous

[Anonymous No.2700837]

I normally come here to look at pretty CRTs and ask questions. For that this general has been immensely helpful. But something just snapped into place and I've got a different question.

Why are we taking pictures of our CRTs that are so close that individual sub-pixels are visible? Surely we should be capturing the whole picture unless there's a technical issue.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2700907]

>>2700837
Why not both?

[Anonymous No.2700942]

Only vaguely related since it's not vidya but there are no general purpose CRT threads.

For ~standard-def video content on an aperture grille crt monitor (Gateway VX1120, 2048x1536@75hz) is it best to match the content's resolution directly (716x362 or 716x~483), a multiple of that resolution, 480p, or a multiple of 480p?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2701009]

>>2700837
>>2700907


>>2700942
Horizontal resolutions can be fudged a bit, but it's usually smart to keep vertical resolution as a clean integer of the original.
If you choose to go with a higher resolution, keep in mind that just because a monitor is able to scan that high does not mean it can explicitly resolve every last detail of that resolution.

With a tube that size and a pitch so small, leaving it at it's native res may leave it looking overly aliased. Doubling to something in the area of ~1440x960(or 1440x1080 for a clean 4:3 ratio) would probably give more visually pleasing results, but I suppose it all depends on the given content and personal taste.

[Anonymous No.2701015]

Are there any consumer CRTs that can properly do 240p and 720p, or do I need to pick up two separate TVs for that

[Anonymous No.2701146]

>>2672482
I prefer OLED.
/thread

[Anonymous No.2701151]

is downscaling from 480p to 240p good?

[Anonymous No.2701171]

>>2701151
In my opinion it's all about the art style. There are some people who swear by it, saying it makes stuff a lot sharper. I'm of the opinion that if a game is made for 480p, it should be played at 480p. Something like DoA on Dreamcast I wouldn't downrez, but I might for, say a shmup or a pixel/animation based game.

[Anonymous No.2701324]

>>2701015
You need separate TVs, a multiscan PVM/BVM, or one of the rare and exotic NEC XM29/XM37s.

[Anonymous No.2701405]

so, since it hasn't been brought up in a while. I propose super Mario world for our CRT collage.

[Anonymous No.2701478]

finally got a pvm for my modded pc engine, i'm quite happy with the results. the colors are indeed more vibrant

[Anonymous No.2701494]

>>2699763
>both the 1701 and the 1702
are you me?

did you notice that the 1701 is slightly heavier?

[Anonymous No.2701496]

>>2701494
>did you notice that the 1701 is slightly heavier?

Most of the time I've read about this monitor, they seems to say that the 1701 was more heavily shielded than the 1702.

[Anonymous No.2701497]

I kinda like 480i sometimes.
sorry for non /vr/

[Anonymous No.2701505]

this image was 8mb before scaling it down
my crt images are always very big files

[Anonymous No.2701514]

>>2701497
interesting stain

[Anonymous No.2701517]

>>2701514
it wont come off with wipes so i never bothered with it
can only be seen at a certain angle too

[Anonymous No.2701550]

>>2701505

same here, i can tell your using some kind of android camera by the file name

sucks that 4chan has a file limit, i always take a good picture and have to crop is or downsize, I'm too lazy to upload elsewhere

[Anonymous No.2701578]

>>2701550
i think that was from when i had an S3, but it could've been my galaxy alpha


touchjizz's camera doesn't work so well with CRT's

my nexus s with cyanogen had antibanding etc

[Anonymous No.2701595]

>>2701494
>>2701496
Yeah I noticed that the 1701 was heavier and thought I was losing it.

Anyone in the Seattle area want to trade a 1701/2 for a PVM?

[Anonymous No.2701615]

>>2701550
Use pomf.cat or some other pomf.se clone.

http://a.pomf.cat/cgrnzq.jpg

[Anonymous No.2701659]

>>2701615
Also the wavy line shit you can kind of see there is apparently a power supply or capacitor issue with the NES, it kind of crawls around slowly across the screen.

http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11668

[Anonymous No.2702613]

>>2689023
what game?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2702954]

>>2702613
Google says Grandia Xtreme.

[Anonymous No.2703635]

Photo rotate test

[Anonymous No.2703653]

>CRT thread
>mfw CRT monitors give me migraine attacks
I'll never be able to enjoy retro games the way they were supposed to be played.

[Anonymous No.2703654]

Is it even worth playing PS2 games on a 480p CRT?

I keep telling myself that these games are better played at 1080p on a LCD just like the Gamecube games.

I'm asking because I dont want to invest in a 480p and be disappointed, I only have a 240p CRT for older consoles.

[Anonymous No.2703703]

So, on my 32" LG LCD, I set to use original resolution, turned off ALL the processing effects, set to PC mode and using RGB SCART for my SNES and Gamecube and composite for my N64 and NES.

With this I get a really nice crisp image that doesn't seem to have any input lag (that I can notice at least?) and the picture is still as big as if I had to get a CRT that would fit in my lounge in the space I have for my console table (Along side my PC monitors and the main TV in our lounge)

So, have I achieved near enough what I'd have with a CRT by playing with my TV settings?

No bait.

[Anonymous No.2703708]

Ugh I'm never going to get my pictures straight am I?

[Anonymous No.2703718]

>>2703703
>So, have I achieved near enough what I'd have with a CRT by playing with my TV settings?
No.

[Anonymous No.2703726]

>>2703718
Come on anon, at least give him an explanation.
And I don't mean have a fit of rage into your keyboard.

[Anonymous No.2703768]

>>2703726
He sounds pretty happy not having a ton of space being taken up by a CRT. Figured I'd save the kool aid.

[Anonymous No.2703793]

>>2703703
>With this I get a really nice crisp image that doesn't seem to have any input lag
Enjoy your shitty black level, only a fool with bad eyes thinks that the picture looks natural.
>(that I can notice at least?)
Enjoy that you're never ever going to use a lightgun, these are able to turn you into a criminal.

[Anonymous No.2704170]

>>2703703
>So, have I achieved near enough what I'd have with a CRT by playing with my TV settings?
no

[Anonymous No.2704195]

>>2700643
Does anyone think its worth the switch if only for the S-Video and Composite? I mean at its core its just a high end CRT, it's just theres little to no risk of having a bad picture as there is with consumer tvs.

[Anonymous No.2704295]

>>2703654
Only a relative handful of PS2 games can actually display at 480p (more can be forced with some modding, though). For the most part, 480i looks alright on HD CRTs, however.

[Anonymous No.2704303]

>>2704295

I can attest to this. I play ssbm on a 480i 600 line 20" and it looks cosmic asstons better than composite on consumer TVs

[Anonymous No.2704425]

>>2704303
>600 line 20"
If this is a PVM there's a good chance it's still standard definition, regardless of the line count of the tube. Tube line count doesn't equate to resolution like it does with LCDs, it equates to sharpness.

But otherwise yes, professional CRTs are on a whole new level compared to consumer stuff, especially for SD content.

[Anonymous No.2704427]

I play N64 games rendered in 2160p open matted to 16:9 on my flat screen. When will your faves?

[Anonymous No.2704574]

>>2703793
The lightgun point is pretty valid. Would be good to experience super scope/zapper games.

[Anonymous No.2704578]

>>2704427
That sounds terrible

[Anonymous No.2705089]

>>2703635
why are you still playing vanilla ?

[Anonymous No.2705113]

I have a Sharp 32C540.

It's pretty great.

[Anonymous No.2705258]

>>2701146
Then leave.

[Anonymous No.2705278]

>>2705258

Good job, you showed that shitposter from two days ago what for

[Anonymous No.2705312]

Hey I need your help:

I bought a trinitron but it seems like on the lower right and upper left part of the screen there are red shadows on everything (really apparent on text, see pic). It seems like 2 layers of the stuff that is projected aren't synchronized (sorry, I don't know anything about the technical aspects as you see). The rest of the screen is fine.

Can this be fixed? Do I have to open the crt and adjust something manually? Pls say no :(

[Anonymous No.2705316]

>>2705312
Another pic. Bonus points if you can guess the game.

[Anonymous No.2705349]

>>2705312
That's (bad) convergence. Convergence is lining up the red/blue/green signals. Depending on the model you might have service menu options for horizontal convergence, but vertical convergence almost always requires opening it up and doing a bunch of weird adjustments that I have no clue how to do correctly. It looks like your issue is vertical.

[Anonymous No.2705356]

>>2705316

Gran Sream saga

[Anonymous No.2705380]

>>2705349
Man that sounds bad. I couldn't find any convergence menu in the manual nor tv options. I guess I have to open it up then. I'm pretty scared cause I've never done anything like this before on a CRT.

>>2705356
Bingo

[Anonymous No.2705383]

>>2705312
>Can this be fixed? Do I have to open the crt and adjust something manually? Pls say no :(
YES, you have to open the CRT.
But convergence is also affected by the earth magnet field, to minimize this make the screen face either east or west.
If the convergence doesn't improve then it needs adjustment.

>>2705316
>dieser Dialog
Wie gerne würde ich das zu meinen Chef sagen.

[Anonymous No.2705387]

>>2705380
I wouldn't bother opening it up unless it's a really, really nice model. Fixing convergence can be a huge pain.

[Anonymous No.2705398]

>>2705383
Wow, didn't think that CRT's are THAT sensible. What about metal or electronics near the CRT? Does this influence the screen aswell? Cause it's strange how just few parts of the screen suffer from bad convergence, and not the whole screen.
Und ja, das würde ich gerne der ganzen Welt sagen...

>>2705387
It's a Sony Trinitron KV-29X2D, is that a "really nice model"?

[Anonymous No.2705412]

>>2705398
Really nice model = professional or some rare/exceptional consumer model. Yours is a nice but otherwise standard consumer set. I'd leave it as is or try and hunt down something similar for dirt cheap.

[Anonymous No.2705431]

Okay it seems like I just have to adjust the convergence rings inside the CRT, is that right?

[Anonymous No.2705436]

>>2705398
>What about metal or electronics near the CRT?
Depends but permanent magnets should be kept away, electronics usually emit high frequency noise and usually it isn't strong enough to cause any visible effect on CRTs with plastic cases.
>Cause it's strange how just few parts of the screen suffer from bad convergence, and not the whole screen.
It isn't strange, there are many "beam landing" adjustments like purity (red beams aligned to hit red phosphors and not the green or blue ones) and the many convergence adjustments are classified as static (middle, overall picture), dynamic (around the middle) and corner convergence.
Each of these can be adjusted by either moving or tilting the yoke, rotating the rings on the yoke, adding or moving the magnet strips between CRT and yoke and possibly a H. STAT trimmer (variable resistor) on the neckboard.
Basically it's all about the yoke and the voltage on the deflection coils isn't that lethal but it still hurts a bit.

Convergence and purity adjustments are indeed complicated, just like >>2705387 says.
Experience and good test patterns are needed for excellent results, which still aren't perfect but still better than your screen.

[Anonymous No.2705702]

>>2705431
>>2705436
Okay I just spent 2 hours on adjusting these fucking rings, and it's such a pain in the ass. You just can't align every part of the screen, if its perfect on the lower part, the upper part is fucked and vice versa. Damn. I have it kinda right right now, but it's still far from perfect. Never do this shit again, so frustrating.

[Anonymous No.2705737]

purchased this PVM 20m4u and has these lines across the top, what is wrong and how would I go about fixing this?

[Anonymous No.2705765]

>>2705702
To expand on >>2705436, thought not him:

You use permalloy strips or other little magents slotted in around the yoke for edge convergence, also called corner convergence. Youtube that.

>>2705737
No idea. Are they still there when you feed a signal into it?

[Anonymous No.2705767]

>>2705702
>Okay I just spent 2 hours on adjusting these fucking rings
Convergence adjustments took me 4-6 hours, mostly I switched between multiple patterns and verified my adjustments were near perfect before I progressed to the next steps.

>if its perfect on the lower part, the upper part is fucked and vice versa.
In this case I think you need to tilt the yoke.
Just loosen the clamp (a screw at the back of the yoke) and remove these (rubber) spacers between CRT and yoke and carefully tilt the front till you think it's better, I think either in horizontal or vertical direction but not diagonal. Afterwards put the spacers back and carefully tighten the clamp.
Also wear rubber gloves while doing this.

Also remember that the CRT must face either west or east during these adjustments or else it could look very bad if you turn it over 90° relative to direction when the adjustments were made.

Some rings also set purity (usually the 2 big ones on the front), in case that you changed these:
Degauss the CRT (let it cool off for 10 minutes then turn on) and display a pure color (red, green or blue) on the screen then turn the purity rings in one direction till you see discoloration, remember this position then turn it to the opposite direction till see some discoloration again, now set the rings in the middle of these 2 position and you will never have any purity problems unless you did it wrong.

[Anonymous No.2705772]

>>2705765
feeding the monitor s-video still produces the lines, i have not received my bcn cables yet

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2705774]

I posted a littler earlier in the thread, but now I have an extra 20L5 (manufactured in 2003) available. If anyone is in the Jacksonville, FL area and wants it, the price is 200. I came here first before I put it up for sale on Videogame Rescue's community bulletin board.

I also have a cute little retarded PVM 5041Q that will miss its onee-chan, so I'll toss her in too for $15. Retard loli PVM can't handle composite properly, but her RGB/Component ports work fine.

[Anonymous No.2705807]

>>2705737
>>2705772


Hey anon, dont have a legit answer to fixing it, but i had a 14m2mdu that had a red line running horizontally like yours. originally, I ha just positioned the screen in the service menu so it didnt show, then a month or two later i put the setting back to stock and it was gone.

Maybe after some uses the tube or caps get warmed up and they will disappear?

[Anonymous No.2705836]

>>2705767
Woah that sounds... difficult. I'm kinda pissed right now at the whole adjustment stuff, that I'm really considering to get my LCD HDTV back from my basement and just try to get the best possible result with it.
I hope I don't get hate for it, but are there any tipps how to get the best possible picture with retro consoles on an LCD HDTV?

[Anonymous No.2705863]

>>2705737
Is the underscan option turned on?

[Anonymous No.2705871]

>>2705767
>the CRT must face either west or east during these adjustments
Jesus christ I love CRTs

[Anonymous No.2705892]

>>2705774
I'd love both those, but sadly i'm in Aus :(

>>2705836
>how to get the best possible picture with retro consoles on an LCD
With an upscaler like the XRGB-mini "Framemeister"

CRT is totally worth it. Though by the time you learn stuff and fix your current one you'll have the bug, and will have the shakes so bad you'll need to go get yourself a PVM. Just you wait ;)

[Anonymous No.2705906]

>>2705892
Framemeisters are hella expensive. Read about stuff like turning your LCD on game mode and such.

I'm really disillusioned right now with the whole crt thing. I was so excited to get one for my retro gaming needs, and first I was blown away by how good it looked, but now there are more negatives than positives. This thing is too bulky, too heavy, it isn't really adjusted well... I wanted to like crts, but if you don't shell out big money on professional stuff it seems to me that it isn't really worth it. Like I said, I'm really disillusioned right now :/

[Anonymous No.2705928]

>>2705089
Because Sagat is my main and he is OP in Vanilla. I bought Vanilla just to beat on some computer chars when I am bored because I have no friends who would come over and play in person.

[Anonymous No.2705943]

>>2705892
I'd recommend starting with a 450TVL 8"-9" set like a PVM-8045Q. You should be able to get one for under about $50 if you're patient.

Those will really show up what a PVM is capable of for not a lot of money, and from there you can decide if the larger sets are going to be worth it.

[Anonymous No.2706202]

>>2672482
I picked up this bad boy on Craigslist for $15 a few months ago. Did I do good?

It's running at 1280x960@96hz right now, hence the lines from my camera. It can do 1600x1200@75(?)hz, haven't tried it because it gets a little hard on the eyes with text. I use it as a 3rd monitor, usually just watch interpolated anime on it.

[Anonymous No.2706206]

>>2706202

Argh, it rotated on me for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2706209]

>>2705943
I'd recommend at least 14" inches, anything else is too small imo. The 14" inch ones makes for good desktop screens, provided you have a deep desktop (them PVMs are pretty deep, compared to most consumer sets)

[Anonymous No.2706210]

>>2706206
Are you serious right now?

[Anonymous No.2706452]

Saw this craigslist, anyone know the exact model number or if it's even decent?

Thanks

[Anonymous No.2706480]

>>2706452
That's just an old Trinitron. Not particularly great, though it might be cool for really old stuff like Atari.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2706619]

>>2705906
Professional and Broadcast monitors are much more easily adjusted. Most of the time they don't even need their convergence rings touched. I have a Sony auto setup probe for BVMs that gets color balance and a few other things spot-on with digital settings before I even open the case. PVMs require only slightly more work.

Patience and understanding/knowledge are your biggest assets. Once you wrap your head around how the screens work (fucking space wizard quasar magic from the dark 4-dimensional future compared to LCDs), you might find that opening them up to work inside is relaxing or even exciting. I got pretty hard touching my 5041Qs tiny little potentiometers. The little flip out boards looked like tiny wings, as if the miniscule monitor belonged to a time and place where ingenuity wasn't just a marketing buzzword, but a legitimate business practice.

Thanks Japan.

[Anonymous No.2706702]

>>2706619
>opening them up to work inside is relaxing or even exciting

>high voltage
>lots of sharp interconnected shielding
>assemblies screaming 'gimme your hands for breakfast!'
>relaxing

[Anonymous No.2706706]

>>2706619
>I got pretty hard touching my 5041Qs tiny little potentiometers. The little flip out boards looked like tiny wings, as if the miniscule monitor belonged to a time and place...

Uh, wow, ok, I didn't expect this to go there.

[Anonymous No.2706713]

>>2706619
We often get accused of having a CRT fetish, but goddamn.

[Princess !dicks9T6Xo No.2706793]

Finally found a PVM in Perth (PVM-9044QM) Works perfect apart from a bit of burn in, used to be owned by ABC Perth.

[Princess !dicks9T6Xo No.2706796]

>>2706793
:3

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2706798]

>>2706702
The more you do it the easier it becomes.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2706804]

>>2706706
I'll post some pictures later today and maybe you'll see what I mean. The tiny 5 inch PVMs are seriously cute and get lewd when you spread their daughter boards apart. Everything is there to play with, not a lot of disassembly is needed to reach the juicy bits.

Sorry, I used to write Spice and Wolf fapfiction.

[Anonymous No.2706812]

>>2706804
Lewd comments aside, I want to say the 5" tubes had a really shitty line count.

>Fapfiction
It's ok we know you're a furfag.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2706820]

>>2706812
>insulting mai woulfu
>disrespecting puffy vulva
Whatever bro.

And yeah the line count is shit, only 250.

[Anonymous No.2706823]

>>2706820
>250
Ick, worse than I thought. And I want to say it's not aperture grill either?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2706839]

>>2706823
Actually I'm pretty sure it is with a 0.4mm pitch.

Sorry for the slow response, running master control during morning news at a TV station in Jax.

[Anonymous No.2707032]

>>2705737
They're test lines. Usually you wouldn't see them unless you're in underscan mode, which would suggest that you need to adjust settings in the Service menu.
Once you get a video displaying on it you'll probably see that it's the wrong shape.

[Anonymous No.2707352]

Come on then /vr/, lend me your expertise

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JVC-TM-A10E-CCTV-Broadcasting-monitor-Will-post-/271978184972?hash=item3f5329c10c

Worth it?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2707623]

>>2706823
AG with 0.4mm pitch.

[Anonymous No.2707735]

yay

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2707757]

>>2707735
>for parts or not working
What was wrong with it?

[Anonymous No.2707840]

>>2707757

they listed it that way because they had no way to test it

im 90% positive it'll work A-ok, at the very least maybe the convergence is off.

[Anonymous No.2707889]

>>2707840
Nice catch then, duder. Surprised about that shipping cost, but it's eBay so they kinda have to honor it. Report in with the results.

[Anonymous No.2707939]

I'm looking to get a CRT for my older consoles, including 6th gen and I was looking at a 27' Trinitron. I was told these don't display 480p aka progressive scan, so I was wondering how would my Gamecube games display on that TV when hooked up with component cables?

As for my older consoles, I'm currently using a scart to hdmi converter for my HDTV, would something like this work if I pick up the Trinitron?
http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1443480803&sr=8-1&keywords=scart+to+component

[Anonymous No.2707984]

>>2707889

surprised at how much it was or wasnt?

ive bought 3 14" pvms on ebay and sold one, $25 was about average for good packing.

[Anonymous No.2708054]

>>2707735
Man fuck you, I really wanted that thing.

[Anonymous No.2708056]

>>2707984
How cheap it was. The 14L5 is 37 lbs (17kg). Only $25 for that much weight is pretty low. I've paid more for less, sadly.

Then again, when you win a BVM 20F1U (87 lbs) and PVM 20L5 (68 lbs) for $28 dollars, $400 of freight shipping from Chicago to Jacksonville isn't so bad.

Again: anyone in Florida who wants a PVM 20L5? I'll meet you halfway from Jacksonville.

[Anonymous No.2708059]

>>2707984
Any idea how much 20" PVMs cost to ship?

[Anonymous No.2708086]

So i already have a Philips CRT for my retro vidya but i brought an Samsung SyncMaster 793v to use as PC second monitor.
The thing is that it only goes full screen on 1024x768, the max supported resolution is 1280x1024 but that's widescreen and therefore it gives me black bars on top and bottom.
What do?

[Anonymous No.2708089]

>>2708059
Depends on who you use and how it's packed. I remember paying around $60/70 for FedEx shipping back in 2011 for my first PVM, which was a 20L5.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708102]

>>2707889
>>2708056
>>2708089
Oh fug I forgot to namefag to make this convo easier to follow. My bad.

>>2708086
CRT computer monitors are designed for computer resolutions and refresh rates. Often they can't handle 15 and 30hz refresh rates. Extron makes devices that can handle that issue though.

[Anonymous No.2708110]

>>2706793
Noice. I love the 9" 450TVL sets, have two myself. Looks amazing playing PS3, believe it or not. And everything else below, of course, esp. Mame in 240p. Where did you get it from?

>>2706820
>>2706812
Nevertheless i'd pick one up for $15 dollars. Where the fuck are you going to find a better 5" set?

[Anonymous No.2708123]

>>2708102
Yeah but it runs on 85Hz at 1024*768 and i can push up the resolution to the 1280*1024 with 60Hz but it black bars bother me

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708124]

>>2708110
I'll put my extra 5041Q on eBay soon once I figure out why the composite video in refuses to display color and fix it. Taking it to a much older engineer friend of mine tomorrow to get his opinion. It's probably something simple.

I'm keeping one though. It'll sit on my desk hooked up for video color correction purposes, probably.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708136]

>>2708123
If you're wondering why the monitor doesn't display 1280x1024 correctly, you got me. The first place I would look is your graphics card's drivers and see if there's some wack-ass aspect ratio settings in there. Second place I'd check is the screen's built-in menus.

[Anonymous No.2708148]

>>2708136
No. I mean, it displays the resolution correctly but since it's a widescreen resolution it wont use the whole monitor real state because it's 16:9 or something like that instead of 4:3, but Windows doesn't seem to have more 4:3 resolutions that use the whole screen usable other than 1024*768.
Will post a pic in a second.

[Anonymous No.2708150]

>>2704578
LOOKS A-MAZING! i recommend.

[Anonymous No.2708154]

1024*768
>>2708148

[Anonymous No.2708160]

>>2708154
1280*1024
Ser the black bares on top and bottom

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708196]

>>2708160
Just adjust the geometry using the monitor's menu to rid yourself of the black bars. It happens because one resolution is a 4:3 ratio and the other is 5:4. No big deal. If you want to stretch it, stretch it. Your CRT is 4:3 by design.

[Anonymous No.2708205]

>>2708086
>>2708123
>>2708148
1280x1024 isn't 16:9, but 5:4. Not widescreen at all. The reason for the black bars, I presume, is that it's trying to correct for the fact that you're displaying a 5:4 image in a 4:3 display, so that stuff doesn't look elongated or something.

Anyway, a monitor like that isn't gonna look that hot at such a resolution. It really will look sharpest at 1024x768. If you really want a higher resolution, but don't want the black bars, 1280x960 is better.

[Anonymous No.2708218]

Someone's selling this 9" PANASONIC BT-S915DA on ebay.
Is this equivalent to a Sony PVM or at least better than a Trinitron?

He said he's also got a 13" one that he might sell.

[Anonymous No.2708219]

>>2708205
Thanks for the help bud, gonna be using it at 1024*768 85Hz then.

[Anonymous No.2708242]

>>2708059

jesus fuck, idunno they're like 70lbs.

>>2708056
i wish i could take your 20L5 off your hands

>>2708054
sorry anon
>>2708218
i see a line a/b switch while, doesnt lead to alot, but if it had atleast 1 component/rgb input it would have a switch for it. I think it just does composite. composite on a pvm is ok, if its like 20 bucks I'd get it.

[Anonymous No.2708247]

>>2703653
thats pretty sad man...

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708253]

>>2708218
Good news: it has the right kind of inputs that you would want.

Bad news: now you've tipped off people looking for a good deal.

[Anonymous No.2708263]

I have an old Kv-1370r , pic related, is it worth getting a more modern CRT?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2708493]

>>2708089
>paying around $60/70 for FedEx shipping back in 2011
Mine was $40 in 2013 for a similarly sized and weight monitor; Not sure who delivered it though.


>>2708205
>>2708219
>It really will look sharpest at 1024x768. If you really want a higher resolution, but don't want the black bars, 1280x960 is better.
Another option is the middle ground of 1152x864. Still 4:3, still higher resolution than XGA, but low enough that the monitor should be able to display it at 75hz.

[Anonymous No.2708572]

Someone recommend me a good CRT with progressive scan.

[Anonymous No.2708641]

>>2708572
>>2708573

[Anonymous No.2708654]

>>2708572
>>2708641
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FD_Trinitron/WEGA

Anything Super Fine Pitch or Hi-Scan supports 480p. The ones without it (near the bottom of the list) support 240p/480i

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708820]

>>2708493
Now you've got me doubting my own memory. I wonder if eBay still has that order information. I'm gonna check.

[Anonymous No.2708846]

Hey guys,

the picture of my 14m2mdu is slightly tiltet counterclockwise. I heard this can sometimes be caused by the earth magnet field, so I tried to change its positioning in the room and degaussed it multiple times. Did´t work so I searched in the service menu... there I found the option V-angle, but this is no use for me since the left and right sides of the picture seem perfectly flush with the sites of the tube. So I would need an option like H-angle to just fix the picture horizontaly.

So is the only option to open it up and fiddle with the joke? How dangerous is it to fuck everything else up? The picture otherwise is perfect but this triggers my ocd pretty hard.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2708875]

>>2708820
It doesn't have it for mine, so I doubt it will for yours.

If you remember how much you paid specifically for the monitor, you could hypothetically go searching through your paypal/bank/credit statements.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2708930]

>>2708846
You're more likely to fuck yourself up than the yoke. If you twist it a bit you'll probably have to do more adjustments to get everything flush like it was before.

[Anonymous No.2709030]

is my crt gud

[Anonymous No.2709056]

>>2708930
> you'll probably have to do more adjustments
Are we talking more about geometry adjustments... or could I also totally fuck up my convergence an purity? I don`t know how well it works with PVMs to just rotate the joke without pushing it back/forth or up/down... is there some kind of protection for that?

[Anonymous No.2709140]

How can I get the best possible image for my Nintendo 64?

I've read that some people mod their Nintendo 64s to get better outputs. My N64 honestly looks terrible, and it has this white, washed-over look. Could it be my N64, image cable, RAM or my games?

What kind of setup do you guys use?

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2709192]

>>2709030
It's okay.

[Anonymous of Jacksonville No.2709195]

>>2709140
If you have a RGB mod capable N64, mod it and you'll be surprised at how much better it will look.

Otherwise the best you'll get is s-video.

[Anonymous No.2709301]

Is it worth dragging my CRT out the attic to play doom and duke nukem?

I want the high refresh rates and black levels, but it's probably too heavy for my desk.

Will an LCD just do?

[Anonymous No.2709305]

I'm going to get a CRT TV with S-video, which video card should I get to support 15khz? If I have to get some old Radeon card that's fine, but I'm afraid that the nvidia and AMD drivers might conflict, is that a legit issue?

[Anonymous No.2709327]

>>2709140
first question is what kind of inputs your display have.
Then, stock N64 can't do more than s-video.

[Anonymous No.2709392]

>>2689987
Just so you know, it's spelled "yea"

Nay is right though... yeah it makes no sense but that's English for you .

[Anonymous No.2709505]

[Anonymous No.2709545]

I've got a fat-screen Panasonic Tau (stylized [tau]). It's from the early 2000s and has composite, s-video, and component, though I don't think it supports 480p.

Anyone know anything about this set? Is it decent? It works fine for me but I haven't compared it to anything.

[Anonymous No.2709696]

Could someone explain to me how a SCART cable will fit into a non-European PVM monitor? I already own a SCART+Upscaler setup for my consoles, but I was thinking of moving up into a legit CRT device. The problem is, I know those things have no speakers, so how do you connect them, and how do you get audio?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2709705]

>>2709696
>how a SCART cable will fit into a non-European PVM monitor?
Break-out cable that will have a scart connector on one end(for connecting to a switch/console scart cable) and BNC connectors on the other for interfacing with the monitor; It will also have RCA connectors for getting L and R audio.

> I know those things have no speakers,
Some have mono speakers, and aren't that bad actually, but a dedicate set of speakers is obviously better.
New Thread:
>>2709701
>>2709701
>>2709701

[Anonymous No.2710906]

>>2708493
1152x864 is pretty neat and also 75Hz, thanks.
I did need to adjust on the monitor a bit because it was centered on the screen so i needed to expand.