[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / g / ic / jp / lit / sci / tg / vr ] [ index / top / reports / report a bug ] [ 4plebs / archived.moe / rbt ]

Maintenance is complete! We got more disk space.
Become a Patron!

/vr/ - Retro Games

View post   

[ Toggle deleted replies ]
File: 1.13 MB, 3280x2460, 101_7452.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
2411195 No.2411195 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Previous thread - >>2390249

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

These past few threads have been great, keep it up!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright!
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

>> No.2411261
File: 1.90 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0998.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anybody have some advice for me? My Astro City monitor (Nanao MS9) is having problems with red. Anything red seems to darken to the right as the beam scans across. You can see it pretty well in this picture. Do I need a cap kit or is my tube dying?

>> No.2411309 [DELETED] 

This is the TV I grew up with. I played my first games on the NES on this TV and I kept playing on it through the Gamecube/PS2 era. I hardly use it anymore, but there're a lot of memories in it so it's surprisingly sad having to get rid of it.

It's been fun. ;_;7

>> No.2411319
File: 932 KB, 2988x2935, 20150518_135520.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This is the TV I grew up with. I played my first games on the NES on this TV and I kept playing on it through the Gamecube/PS2 era. I hardly use it anymore, but there're a lot of memories in it so it's surprisingly sad having to get rid of it.

It's been fun. ;_;7

>> No.2411369

who else here is crt with built in vcr masterrace

>> No.2411645
File: 1.80 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_0438.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I picked up a PVM-20M2U today, I was wondering if you guys could give me some setup tips.

I'm looking to hook up a snes, ps1, ps2, and gamecube to this. It generally goes console ->scart -> bnc cable -> pvm right? I probably need a switcher of some sort if im going to hook all these up. I'm still kind of fuzzy on the whole audio setup, I imagine you need a cable that has the red and white audio rca seperate. I know that the gamecube is a bit of an exception, so I was thinking of using S video for that.

I need recommended models of
-Scart switcher
-Audio switcher

Here's a picture of the front, sorry for the shitty phone picture.

>> No.2411648
File: 2.14 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0437.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And heres the back panel.

>> No.2411668
File: 1.10 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_0038.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Shitty old A510 dug from a electronics box
>no stabilisation
>runs on AA
>has shutter and focal controls
>mfw my newer 220HS doesn't
>mfw when the 510 is easier to work with CRT

>> No.2411692
File: 792 KB, 320x240, MVI_1604.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oh well, the 220 has 240fps recording at least

>> No.2411716

check out RetroRGB, if you haven't already. he's got a page on scart switches and a link to another - http://retrorgb.com/scartswitches.html
I use a Bandridge 5-way, which is often recommended, and haven't noticed any issues. Can be hard to find, though.
for cables, retrogamingcables on their own site or retro_console_accessories on ebay are popular. I have ones from each, but my setup is a bit different, so I don't know about the scart-to-BNC cables.

>> No.2411729

just realized those cable sellers will probably only cover the SNES. I'm not sure about the PS1 and would like to know as well. Best cable for PS2 is component, since RGB can't handle 480p.

>> No.2411743

RGB can handle 480p.
Think the highest official standard is WHUXGA. That's 8k.

Now a scart input may be limited.

>> No.2411775

yeah sorry, RGB SCART can't handle 480p

>> No.2412641

I'm currently running my snes and modded n64 on my hdtv with a scart to hdmi converter. I want to pick up a CRT for playing Smash on my wii because the input lag is killing me. I've been looking at the flat screen trinitrons, would that suffice for playing my wii/snes/n64 on if I were to also pick up that scart to component converter?

>> No.2412659
File: 1.12 MB, 3280x2460, 101_8084.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>those cable sellers will probably only cover the SNES
Both cover Nintendo and Sega consoles quite well.
RGC recently added Playstation cables to their offerings which is nice.

Component would be nice for 480p support, but that PVM won't support it anyway. Any PVM that would support progressive scan would also support RGsB, which the PS2 is perfectly fine using for 480p titles.

If you get a model with component, that would work fine with a RGB to YUV transcoder. You wouldn't need it for the Wii though, since it's capable of component out right.

>> No.2412681

I was reading that some of the trinitron models had some post processing that would create some input lag, is that true? And if so what models should I avoid?

>> No.2412692

ED/HD models; They'll scale low-res signals and introduce a delay.

>> No.2412694

I see, I'll avoid those then. Thanks anon.

>> No.2412743

If NTSC then Smash will run in 480p though, which is more colorful and bright. A "Progressive" EDTV would work for that. Easiest to go SDTV and run 480i, then it'll work for everything. Most of the silvery Trinitrons in 16:10 were ED/HD, and marked that way on the back. Just check the model numbers.

>> No.2412759

Somewhat CRT related, now my PAL trinni does do 60hz over RGB scart, but lets say I got a SNES\megadrive and an everdrive, will the NTSC roms play in 50hz or 60hz ? or do I need to mod
I'll probably just get a wii instead.

also can you only get 240p over RGB ? I've always wondered this , I always had RGB scart cables but I'm curious

>> No.2412769

these pal consoles will alway output 50hz if not modded.

480i is the limit for scart RGB.

>> No.2412770

I've got the exact same mode. Your best bet is for a Mad Cats (Yeah I know..) RGB Scart switcher. They're about £15 on amazon from 3rd party vendors. They work flawlessly with no quality loss.

As for cables, get a BNC to Scart WITHOUT A SYNC STRIPPER. This model does NOT need a sync stripper. The BNC to scart cable comes with the audio broken out so you can either use the monitor's mono speaker or put it into some speakers.

>> No.2412774

Sorry, forgot the link. You can get a good BNC to scart cable here: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/

>> No.2413019

Me too. The prevalence of these models in the UK makes me think the NHS must have batch ordered them at some point and used them for a while.

Anyway, my order for a VisionMaster 450 somehow went through without issue, I'm getting this 19" monster bought and shipped to my door for just 30 quid.

Now I have to custom build a fucking table out of old wood pallets to hold it up, I don't trust almost 30kg on my flimsy MDF desk.

>> No.2413035

Hey anon I'm using this http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/RGBS-SCART-ADAPTER.html + rca cables with BNC adapters on the ends + one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nedis-Valueline-Switchable-SCART-Male-to-3x-RCA-Female-S-Video-Adapter-/311345451764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item487da292f4 to derive the audio. Hope this helps

>> No.2413206
File: 62 KB, 1024x768, CFUj-EaWMAAySUh.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Abandon 50Hz.

Looking forward to getting a Mega EverDrive and sd2snes soon.

Wanna get an NTSC crystal oscillator for my modded PAL Mega Drive though, just to make it true NTSC spec.

>> No.2413239

If I get a PVM-20N5U with s-video how can I connect that to my PC? Should I just get an old GPU with s-video and connect it that way? I hear that I should use special software, like Soft15khz or CRU. Would this work at good quality or would I need to buy one of those $200 scaler boxes?

>> No.2413253

Since S-Video is the best it will do, an older GPU would work well. To my knowledge, CRU and Soft15khz will really only be of use if you're using RGB(VGA). S-Video will just go through the graphics card's encoder and out to your TV/Monitor of choice.

>> No.2413263 [DELETED] 

Thanks anon. This is what I was planning on picking up, what do you think?
I know it'd be hard to see if it has any problems unless you're in person but this is the closest one I can find and I have $75+ to gamble. I just hope that if there is problems a CRT repair shop can fix it.

>> No.2413275 [SPOILER] 
File: 11 KB, 394x135, 1432049173116.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

For one, the N line is mainly budget models with lower line counts and less features.
In this case, it doesn't even have RGB. Based on those photos, it'd probably have a pretty good picture over s-video.
$75 seems a bit high for s-video only though, ignoring travel time/costs.

For two, pic related. If it was cheaper and had RGB, I'd interested in it myself.

>this is the closest one I can find
Where are you coming from?

>> No.2413280

Ohio, near Cleveland. It's about a 2hr30m drive there.

Of course, I haven't actually hunted, I know people recommend to call video companies and hopsitals? Might try that, any tips?

>> No.2413287

2h30m drive and $70 doesn't seem worth it for that monitor imo

>> No.2413290

Ideally I could get one local with RGB inputs, but again, I've had no luck on ebay or craigslist, and that is a 20inch, I've found 14inches and 8inches but not as big as 20 inches.

>> No.2413292

Being entirely honest, I fell into mine thanks to a tip from an anon on /v/, so I don't really have any experience in actually hunting them down.

250-300 miles for the round trip is quite a distance for that price; If you could talk them down heavily it wouldn't be as bad though.

Depending on where it's at in the flats, I don't think it would be that impossible to maybe pop down there and check it out, if the seller was alright with it.

>> No.2413295

I meant to add:

As an anon suggested in the last thread(s), if you're going around asking and looking for monitors, your going to want to talk to someone who manages the IT and electronics. The person manning the phones and front desk aren't going to know anything about what could be lurking in the supply rooms around back.

>> No.2413326
File: 2.97 MB, 1707x967, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2413341

>BVM-D24E1WU x2
>"I would be willing to accept about $200 each"

w-what do I do. I got a 14N6U for free and I have no idea what these things are worth or if it's worth the upgrade.

>> No.2413460

14N6U is a somewhat lower line count(500) SD model with RGB. D24 and L5 are both MultiFormat sets with a considerably higher line count.

D24 is 16:9 with 1000 lines, would probably be insanely sharp for retro, and would do even 7th gen games proud. You NEED the controller for it to actually make much use of it. If it doesn't some with it (BKM-10R), that's going to be an extra $40+.
You also need to make sure that it has the proper option cards. Unlike PVMs, BVMs have interchangeable option cards that change what signals they can display. If you end up buying one without any cards or just say SDI cards, that's another sizable chunk of cash you'll need to drop. This would allow for quite a large number of usable inputs though.

20L5 is 4:3 with 800 lines, 600 if displaying a 16:9 image. Very sharp but not as much as the above. Retro would be wonderful, and would be great for 6th gen too; Wouldn't say it would be bad for 7th either.
Controls are on the monitor, so an external remote isn't necessary. Has the ability to use option cards like the above, but has permanent inputs for composite, s-video, and RGB/Component.

20E1U would have the insanely high line count of the D24, meaning a stupidly sharp image, but is limited to 240p/480i as far as I can tell. It also would need the remote and option cards, if they are not included.

>> No.2413478

Either a D24 or 20L5 is my personal goal. That proper 480p+ support is just too good. Having everything from NES to PS3/Wii U all working WELL on a single monitor would be great. Relatively simple use of Dreamcast VGA would be cool too.

As for price, the D24 would probably be worth the 200 if it has at least one option card you would want (something with analog RGB/component) and more so with the 10R;
I'd likely try to talk the price of the 20L5 down some, but I am a cheapass.
This is assuming they're in good condition. The BVMs should have an hour count available in their settings, to give you an idea how much they've been used.

They would without a doubt be an upgrade over what you currently have. Whether you'd make full use of them or have the space to use them is another.
I should note that the D24 is ~110lbs, 20E1 is ~80, and the L5 is just under 70.
Shipping any of them would be a "pleasant" experience for both sender and recipient.

For a bit more information on the 20E1 and 20L5:

I don't have the manuals for the D24 around, but the brochure has a bit of information on it and other models.

>> No.2413512
File: 894 KB, 2392x450, BVM-D24-combined.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

damn, thanks for all the info. it'd be a craigslist pickup, so no shipping charges.

here's a pic of the D24's - one of them looks to have a BKM-10R and they both have option cards in the back (though, different options). sounds like one of those would be the best option.

Just curious though, I remember reading that article about how the BVM-20F1 is the best gaming monitor out there. The 20E1 has 1000 lines to the F1's 900. Do you know the difference? Or was that article just not entirely thorough.

>> No.2413546

FUcking hella jelly anon. You scored good.

>> No.2413559

Hey Anon, if you got both of them, do you think you'd be able to ship one to the UK?

I think even with the shipping cost it would be cheaper than buying one new.

>> No.2413565

I can't say I've ever done anything like it before, but I can look into it an let you know.

Sounds like I should pull the trigger on one of these, then.

>> No.2413572

Articles don't have to be factually correct, and a statement like that grabs the attention better than "Second/Third/One of the best gaming monitors".

The main difference is the higher lined tube. Lack of 480p+ sours it a bit for my own taste though, but if you plan to use it solely for 240p/480i sources, you're not really going to find a better tube out there.

Of those two D24s, the one on the right looks to have more inputs that would be useful to you. 4 RGB/Component, with at least that center(of the three) "Digital/Analog" card also being able to double as 3 composite inputs in exchange for the 1 RGB. If you could could get it with the 10R and it's in good shape, I'd probably jump on it.

Be sure to bring something to test them with , of course. Wii over component with 240p Test Suite is my go to recommendation, but any game you know the looks of extremely well can work in a pinch.
If you've only got composite to test with, any of the RGB/Component inputs on the Digital/Analog cards should give you a proper composite image.
I can't say whether you'll need 75ohm terminators for the outputs of them though.

I wish something like this would pop up in my area. The Mitsubishi was a nice find, but any of those three would just be fantastic.

>> No.2413587

Nah anon, I just did a quick calc with the weight and dimensions of the set (110lb lmao) and its £fuckingexpensive.

Enjoy your TV anon. If you fancy making some cash I'd buy both and hold onto one. They're going for at least $1000 on ebay.

>> No.2413701

lmao - 3 hours later in another ad:
>SONY Trinitron PVM-20M2U color video monitor $55.00
>SONY HR Trinitron BVM-20E1U color video monitor $55.00

>> No.2413724

Where do you live that these are popping up like that?

>> No.2413739

Big Apple. I've had alerts set up for months and have mostly just gotten 8 inchers or overpriced 14-20's. Seeing these two back-to-back is pretty nuts.

So I guess I'm not sure what to do again. The D24 sounds like something I shouldn't pass up, but $55 is pretty darn cheap. Worth noting the second ad is selling a BKM-10R separately for $40.

>> No.2413750

As expected.
So that would push the combined price up to just under $100. Any idea of what option cards it comes with, if any?

The 20E1 is the best SD monitor you could as for, but not having Multiformat support would really be a drag.

Get both, hoard all the CRTs.

>> No.2413781

sent over an email asking about it. they're selling off 25 different things, so I'm not sure how many pics they'll feel like taking of one item.

tfw small apartment

>> No.2413789

We need to set up a /crt/ exchange service or something. Help disenfranchised anons get a hold of good CRTs by buying and passing them on at price.

>> No.2413804
File: 168 KB, 1468x1957, bvm-20e1u.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2413830

I'd be up for it if I had the dosh available.

2 RGB/Component, not bad.
So long as they're in good condition, any choice you make will be a good one, but it's one that only you can make.

>tfw small apartment
Get rid of your microwave, it's not important.

>> No.2413893

I personally might be interested in giving away a couple of extra PVM's that I have to /vr/troopers at some point in the future, but they would have to pick it up themselves and I live in North Dakota

>> No.2414173
File: 3.74 MB, 2448x3264, 20150519_221457.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2414340

Some advice for people living in Berlin, I moved here a few months ago and eBay kleinanzeigen is full of super cheap pvms. I got a 20l2 for 30 euro the other day. Beware though, these devices are super heavy, so bring a cart or a helper to transport them if you plan to use the metro.

>> No.2414414

do 4:3 systems look weird at all on 16:9 monitors? I'm just used to the bezel of the monitor cutting off the picture on all sides

>> No.2414441

>Left/Right big black bars
>We need to go wider
pick your poison

>> No.2414459

You forgot:
>No need for the stuff in the upper and lower areas

>> No.2414469

so.. do the big black bars look weird? is the picture still cut off in a straight line on either side?

>> No.2414750

>The person manning the phones and front desk aren't going to know anything about what could be lurking in the supply rooms around back
Not only that, they'll have no idea what you're talking about, and when you explain they won't know why you want it: in addition to which they'll have no idea what happens to old gear, or even who's responsible for that kind of policy. They'll out you in the too-hard basket.

Ask any switchboard for the IT guys at very least. For a TV-station or production company you want the production guys.

>> No.2414778

Fuck me that's some nice stuff going in NYC!

>references older broadcast CRTs that haven't been made in over a decade
>wants to buy one new

I'm assuming you glossed over that bit :)

Mighty white of you, anon.

>> No.2414793

Does 240p test suite have any 480i test patterns as well? I've used the 240p ones, but wasn't looking for 480i at the time.

>> No.2414834
File: 1.84 MB, 1907x1002, comparison.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm kinda new to CRTs, I was watching this comparison video earlier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LC4_4Pr0Nc

And s-video looks kinda strange in motion, like it's leaving behind a bunch of afterimages when compared to composite. Is this normal? Is it just youtube?

See pic, s-video has some kinda weird double-vision when in motion, but composite doesn't.

>> No.2414842

Obviously some kind of capture error, I'd say. S-video looks completely fine in motion.

>> No.2414856

No doubt capture issue, those look like interlacing artifacts.

>> No.2415039

>BVMs should have an hour count available in their settings, to give you an idea how much they've been used
General range of what's a good or bad number? The ones I looked at on ebay range from 18k to 68k, both of which I would have guessed were high.

>> No.2415081

my s-video looks awesome on my crt. dunno where this pic comes from

>> No.2415105

>from 18k to 68k [hours on a BVM]
Lower is better, assuming nothing else is wrong, but actually anything under 100K is bandied about as what to look for.

>> No.2415131

Can the Pi2 do 240p? I was thinking of picking up a Pi2 for streaming and some emulation on my CRT but that's the main sticking point for me right now.

>> No.2415162

If I had to guess, I'd say that with a composite out it'd do 480i from the box.

If it uses Linux, then yes it'll almost certainly do 240p. You'll have to learn to insert and modify modelines in Linux though.

>> No.2415540
File: 2.30 MB, 3104x2328, DSC_0551.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hi all. Don't know too much about CRTs unfortunately, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me what is causing the bars running vertically along the screen? Can it be fix/adjusted or is it an issue with the TV itself? Thanks

>> No.2415543
File: 1.87 MB, 3104x2328, DSC_0553.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sorry, not sure why it decided to flip the image. Here is another picture, apologies for the terrible quality. The TV is a Sony Trinitron KV-DR29M39 (KV-DR29)

>> No.2415548
File: 1.77 MB, 3264x1836, 20150520_121233.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

received a 20m4a today. broken in transit.. seller is sending me another one. any point to keeping this for parts or should just chuck it in the dumpster?

black particles can be seen all under the glass and it feels like the tube or something is loose inside.

>> No.2415558
File: 98 KB, 814x462, 1329280090794.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

FUCK. Spoiler that shit next time.

>> No.2415562
File: 3.26 MB, 3280x3690, Suite.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

1.7 on the Wii lets you select your output resolution of choice. You can enable the 480p modes as you wish, but I have them turned off.
Moire Moire Moire.

Do you mean the SNES's grey bar?

>and it feels like the tube or something is loose inside
That's the understatement of the century.

I'd open it up and see if there's anything salvage able, circuit board wise, but I certainly wouldn't be hopeful.
I'd also probably take it apart and hoard every last screw or small connector that isn't broken off of it, but that's just me.

>> No.2415567
File: 1.51 MB, 300x225, 1325192017_fedex_guy_throws_computer_monitor_over_the_fence[1].gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

FedEx strikes again!

>> No.2415587

Yeah the dark bar with the lighter bars on either side. It's running vertically through the image. Only noticed it when playing mega man x. I've heard that SNESs have an issue with bars running horizontally, wasn't aware if it was vertically as well

>> No.2415672

I've got a monitor coming today through UPS, don't scare me man.

>> No.2415678

Hope that guy got sued. Sacked ain't good enough. Fuck he should be imprisoned for that shit.

>> No.2415685

Don't know about that guy in particular, but there was an incident with a UPS dude who chucked a package above a fence and then proceeded to take a piss right then and there, which ended in him getting sacked.

>> No.2415874 [DELETED] 

What is le point? Who would want to play on a tiny 20 inch screen with that death ray zapping you from point blank

>> No.2415905

20 inches is huge, and the X-ray exposure from bathing under CRTs is way less than going through an airport scanner occasionally.

>> No.2415908


Hardly Fedex, that's probably an Auschoice set. I'm the guy who ordered the BVM-2010P only to have the pallet it shipped on ripped in half. The set itself might be repairable, or it might not, but i'm hopeful. That picture tho, anon... makes me shiver. How in hell do you mishandle something that badly?

>> No.2415915

>The set itself might be repairable
I'm not sure how. The glass lamination on the front looks fucked.

>> No.2415923

Thanks as always, Kya

>> No.2415928

No, MY set might be, the BVM-2010P. His set is a goner, the tube is probably ready to implode.

>> No.2415934

>Moire Moire Moire.
>how do you like it?
>how do you like it?

>> No.2415941
File: 760 KB, 2356x544, Too much.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I gotcha now.

Seriously though, what did that poor thing suffer through on its trip?

>> No.2415981

kya, if you play though SM:RPG any time soon can you snap some pix of bowser's shitty haiku?

i love CRTs
they do what LCDs don't
deep blacks and light guns

>> No.2415993
File: 1.22 MB, 3280x2460, 101_9817.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have been meaning to play it again, so I'll try to remember if and when I get there.

>> No.2416076

Real talk

how hard would it be to make an assembly line of new CRT tubes in 2015? is it even possible?

Because starting a small production line of monitors for use in arcade environments seems real fucking nice.

>> No.2416081
File: 258 KB, 2048x1215, phonedork.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

responding to my own question
not bad

>> No.2416108

Pretty sure there are extended bezels you can get to actually cover up the unused portion of the tube when using it for 4:3 content.

>> No.2416132

Basically impossible. The whole industry was shitcanned when LCDs arrived on the market, and nobody is ever going to go back to "old" stuff.

The market is far too small to ever reach the kind of quality product people are expecting.

Maybe in a post scarcity society where everyone has replicators in their own home, and someone scans in a brand new boxed BVM with the caps replaced.

>> No.2416237

which version of alpha 3 is this ?
i have the ps2 anthology which does 480p and that's cool but it's not as nice as 240p on a crt

>> No.2416239

sorry, wasn't my pic, so I don't know

>> No.2416294

It's the Saturn version.

>> No.2416393
File: 210 KB, 475x513, 1321444120908.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>higher resolution is nice but it's not as nice as lower resolution, because lower resolution is more retro and thus better

>> No.2416449

>the upscaled ps2 version at 480p is upscaled as opposed to the native 240p original version which is not scaled, but native 240p on a 240p/480i crt.

did i repeat the important words enough for you?

learn how to /vr/

>> No.2416467

480 is perfectly divisible by 240. It doesn't make a negative difference. But to answer your question, no, you didn't repeat "native" enough.

>learn how to /vr/
You mean, enjoying and discussing retro games, or masturbating over niggling details as the only true way to experience games--you know, like we did back in the day?

>> No.2416489


Not him but games that are supposed to run in 240p just look better when displayed in 240p, not in 480p.

>> No.2416497

So much better than people have to ask what resolution it is first.

>> No.2416521


There are other reasons for people to ask about that kind of stuff too (like the fact that it wont run as well as a version made to run in 240p), but 240p stuff definitely look better in 240p than 480p.

>> No.2416534

Mm-hmm. You've repeated "it's just better" enough times that I'm now convinced.

>> No.2416691
File: 2.17 MB, 3100x1508, Lilith 240p vs 480p.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Taking a low res game and line doubling it tends to amplify the amount of aliasing that is perceived by the eye, making or rather placing under a microscope exactly how block-y the graphics actually are.
By leaving it at its native resolution and hopefully with the scanlines that come with that, you break up each line of visual data which results in an optical illusion of there seeming to be more to the picture than what is actually there. To put it in other words, it acts as a form of anti aliasing.
This is especially apparent with games with simpler graphics from say they NES, where as newer more detailed games tend to fare a better.

You have to think less about the actual dimensions that the resolution implies and more how that resolution ends up being displayed.

This is by no means a perfect example, as I'll fully admit that they're from different sources and the original photos were taken from different distances, but the assets themselves are still the same.

>> No.2416707

That is a thought-out, thorough, and above all /civil/ response; I applaud you. Best of all, it comes with a visual to back up the argument.

That said, I like the look of the 480p better.

>> No.2416726

I am of the personal opinion that 240p looks better, but line-doubled 480p still looks great and is more than acceptable, as long as it's done properly and natively. The resolution is only one part of the CRT experience, after all. With 480p, you still get great contrast, smooth motion, and no lag.

>> No.2416735
File: 1.06 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1587.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Of the two photos, I can't disagree one bit. It was taken at closer up and actually needed to be scaled down to properly match to the 240p example. Otherwise, it does come down a bit to personal taste. I prefer to play stuff at its native res, but line doubling doesn't bother me too much.

Left is from Vampire: Darkstalkers Collection for PS2, hex edited to display in 240p(rather than 480i) over component.
Right is Vampire Chronicle (for Matching Service) for the Dreamcast, over VGA in 480p.

With these two games though, I could be remembering wrong, but I believe that the Dreamcast game suffers from combing/interlacing artifacts where as the PS2 version obviously does not. That's more a fault with the port itself rather than the resolution though.

>> No.2416814


yeah it was from auschoice. would you believe the idiots sent it just wrapped in black plastic without any foam/bubblewrap and not even in a cardboard box. no surprise it got smashed.

the reply i got from them was that they sent it on a pallet so shouldnt of been manhandled to get damaged. but common sense says you dont ship a monitor without any protection. anyway, ill see how the replacement turns up.

>> No.2416835

What a bunch of amateurs. My first monitor came on a pallet, wrapped in 5 massive sheets of bubble wrap, and arrived with not a dent on it.

My second one came in a big cardboard box, surrounded by empty cardboard boxes as protection. One corner was a little chipped, but that might have been from years of use. Easily glued back on, anyway.

>> No.2416992
File: 1.04 MB, 3280x2460, 102_3923.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Vampire Savior 2, CPS2 from the Wii, 224p.

>> No.2417065

save the chassis and the wire going around the monitor, it can be used as degaussing coil

fuck man, i can't bear seeing this shit

>> No.2417097

How is CPS2 emulation on Wii? I've always said that Capcom could've made easy money releasing their arcades as VC titles, a la SNK.

>> No.2417103

Well, I got one of the BVM-D24's ( >>2413512 )
One on the left, 28k hours, $230 for the monitor, control unit and taxi. Guys were either trying to hustle me or they seriously regretted agreeing to the original price after more offers came in.

I'll try to take some decent phone pics of it when I find a place to put it and fix the geometry. Might be a while. Thanks for the advice all.

>> No.2417160

CPS2 stuff is decently emulated

a bloke on arcadeotaku is selling CPS2 multicarts so you can go that route if you already have an A+B board!

>> No.2417256

How big of a visual difference is there between PS1 games through s-video and PS1 games through component on a PS2?

And is there any visual difference between PS1 games on a PS1 through s-video and PS1 games on a PS2 through s-video?

>> No.2417353

Anyone got that graphics about x-ray levels/ionising radiation that cropped up a while back?

>> No.2417361
File: 87 KB, 1134x1333, radiation.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

oops, googled it:

>> No.2417375

Well shit, CRT discarded.

>> No.2417512

Is anyone familiar with a problem involving a tv's controls simply not doing what they were intended to?
Like, sometimes when I press volume up, the menu gets opened, or the input mode changes.
It's a CRT I picked up off the street (haven't played on a CRT at home in such a long time, feels good to not have input lag, and the picture to actually look like it should).

>> No.2417652

Hi all. What line makes SCART switch a set to RGB? The +5V or the +12V?

>> No.2417657

pin 16 when 1-3v is applied. 5v or 12v is too much, you need a resistor.

>> No.2417673


And not that I can't google it or work it out, but would you know what resistor is best for a +5V line?

>> No.2417675

oh, and is JP-21 the same specs, but different pins?

>> No.2417679

for 5v, anything between 75 and 180 ohms.
And yeah, JP21 is the same connector wired differently.

>> No.2417694


Nobody has an answer?

>> No.2417710

I really meant is it the same voltage/activation levels, but different pins...

>> No.2417712

Slow board. Besides, all the Euros and US guys are probably asleep or at work. You'll get your answer, just hang on, and be prepared to ask again in a few days if needs be.

>> No.2417761


I have never done a proper comparison, but I can tell you that PS1 games through component via a PS2 look really sharp. I imagine s-video would look just fine, provided you have a nice TV.

>> No.2417803
File: 185 KB, 975x754, CIMG2708.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Apparently you can mod a 2 chip SNES/SFC to output a better RGB signal. Looks insanely tedious tho. If I ever find some kind of thrashed but working SNES I might try....

>> No.2417808

What the fuck am I looking at. This looks like some British guitar amplifier from the 60's. How are those wires not shorting out.

>> No.2417810

How else is the RGB going to get to 11?

>> No.2417815

Kekd hard.

>> No.2417821

Wtf do the diode pairs reversed & in parallel do? Provide some sort of threshold cutoff? Surely a voltage regulator would have been simpler?

>> No.2417826


>CRT discarded

What? Shit is less dangerous when used daily for a year than eating 1 banana a week m8.

>> No.2417835

feel free to try to improve.

>> No.2417865

How is it with widescreen CRT TVs? There is a Sony Wega 32" (KV-32FC60) I might be able to get my hands on. Does it stretch the image?

>> No.2417879

Should allow a 4:3 setting. Keep in mind most (all?) of those widescreen Wegas are HD, and not ideal for retro games. Should otherwise be fantastic for tv, movies, and 6th gen+

>> No.2417936

Oh ok, thanks. Think I'll bail then. Would've been used for retro consoles. Hoping a p/bvm ever shows up.

>> No.2417996
File: 17 KB, 336x336, 1310140721092.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i want to find whoever did this whole soldering job and kick him in the nuts

>> No.2418013


>PS1 games through component via a PS2 look really sharp

Is that good or bad?

>> No.2418015
File: 1.42 MB, 1200x900, IMG_2368a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I still like the picture on my Thomson even though it's not a known brand like a Trinitron series.

>> No.2418019
File: 100 KB, 640x480, MD2_audio_amp.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

dood, modding with regular through hole components on such limited surface and height is a fucking nightmare. It's actually pretty good for 100% hand soldering with this amount of components.

>> No.2418023

depends on games, but it's generally a good thing. But you might notice the typical PS1 dithering and be bothered forever.

>> No.2418038


Thomson made some really nice aperture mask TVs too.

Fun fact : if Thomson made the right decisions in the 60s, they would have been the ones mass producing aperture grid TVs.

>> No.2418039
File: 527 KB, 852x746, 1430199136161.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I don't get it. Are crts for retro gaymen just a poorfag thing like people who say ssds aren't worth it or is it a hipster thing like vinyl albums?

>> No.2418040

Seen a Trinitron BVM-2011P going for about £200, the guy seems alright and says I could see it work before I buy. Worth investigating?

>> No.2418042

A high quality CRT will deliver the best possible picture from original hardware.

They can also be found at any price from free to a hundred bucks.

For some consoles, they're really the only option, like N64, where up-scaling just does not work at all, and the emulators are trash. For others, it doesn't really matter much, like PS1.

Scanline emulation and higher density LCD displays are probably going to replace CRTs in the next 20 years.

>> No.2418043


Meh, dithering doesn't bother me. The reason I'm asking is because I'm currently using my PS2 to play PS1 games on my 14" PVM through component, but I'm considering just getting a PS1 for that monitor and using my PS2 with my 28" CRT TV because, it could be my imagination, but PS2 games seem blurry or something on the 14" monitor.

I'm just worried that there's going to be a noticable drop in picture quality.

>> No.2418047

Many PS2 games have stuff like flicker-filters that ultimately blur picture. If you have access to some SNK fighting games, many have a focus option that can be set to smooth or normal. Smooth applies a full screen blur, while normal is pretty much pure 480i display, sharper but the interlace flicker can be noticied easier. Few games have that choice tho.

>> No.2418050

You're probably pumping 480i over component, and getting slight judder because of it. You need some softmod shit to force 480p, it doesn't work with every game, and I don't think they made many 14" PVMs with 31khz support.

PS1 titles are all 240p with 480i cutscenes and menus. Over S-video or RGB, you'd be unlikely to notice much of a quality decrease.

>> No.2418057
File: 3.96 MB, 5000x3744, Title Compare reduced fit(vr)-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So are you planning to use S-Video with the PS1 on the PVM or on the 28'' TV?
S-Video from the PS1 and PS2 look pretty good.

This really needs to be redone now that I've got a tripod and a better grasp of photo taking.


>> No.2418059


I have KoF 99 for PS1 and KoF XI for PS2, and I don't think either have that option...Is this just an issue with component, or does it exist with s-video, too?


I know that the monitor doesn't do 480p...I tried setting Tekken 5 to progressive mode, and it didn't work correctly. So, does that mean I'm better off using s-video with the monitor? Would I get the judder?

>> No.2418060


I'd be using s-video on the PVM.

>> No.2418068
File: 1.90 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_0046.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

KoF XI has that option, in graphics. Also some games, including many SNK games have progressive scan option (hold X and /\ while booting game).

>> No.2418070

Neato. I'd like to try one out if I could hook up my raspberry pi emulator box to one

>> No.2418073


Oh...I guess I never noticed that. So, I guess one question remains...Would I still get the mentioned judder and blur and other issues on PS2 games if I switch to s-video? Is that problem still going to exist on the 28" TV through component (I don't think it does progressive...I just got it and haven't brought it into my room yet)?

>> No.2418074 [DELETED] 
File: 402 KB, 1024x2304, snes mini.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Muh SNES Mini.

>> No.2418076
File: 402 KB, 1024x2304, snes mini.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Muh SNES Mini.

>> No.2418081

The difference would be minimal between component and s-video. And you would benefit from having the PS2 on a bigger display anyway since you would use component.

>> No.2418094

Why not RGB?

>> No.2418098


I don't care enough about RGB to be willing to invest the money for it.

>> No.2418106
File: 92 KB, 640x479, f5088e6874e6c218cc6c6a21ba0359431387415164_full.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Da fuck is wrong with you?

>> No.2418112
File: 185 KB, 1600x1200, lgw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Might be picking up a 17" Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 87TXM CRT monitor tomorrow.

The plan is to have a CRT monitor to get a video feed over VGA from a Dreamcast connected to a VGA splitter (the other lead going into a capture card). With this setup I'll be able to have a lagless image from the Dreamcast on one screen, while the second screen can be used to monitor the recording process.

But, I have never used BNC before. If I got a component splitter, could I run one set of component video to my capture card and the other set to the monitor through a component to BNC adapter to have a similar one screen for gameplay/one screen for recording setup for the PS2 over component at 480p? Would this work for PS1 240p/480i games played on the PS2 over component as well?

Basically, can someone give me a crash course on BNC and what it means for retro gaming?

>> No.2418139

Who the fuck thinks SSDs aren't worth it?

>> No.2418147

That's pretty steep for anything that's not in PERFECT condition. Make sure it has the terminators on the outputs and give it a test run. It needs a PAL decoder card to do PAL (and an NTSC to do NTSC...) But will take RGB and component without needing a card besides the leftmost 5...

I don't have the manual for it, but I do have the one for the BVM-2016P. That's the 600TVL version, where the 2016P is the 900TVL, and has better convergence controls ( i think?).


Things to be aware of:
Without terminators the screen will be nice and bright, but you'll get reflection noise. This is white ripple/ghosting just to the side of any colour border onscreen. With terminators is a better image, and if the screen can't go bright enough the set is kinda worn.

Make sure you get a key for the front drawer, that's where the good controls are.

Make sure the system password is default, or that the guy can supply it. Read the manual above for how to get to that shit- it'll be the same for the 2011P. I'm not sure it can be reset, but a total reset might do it. Give that a go with the guy there if you have to.

>> No.2418148

I should add that if it's in really good condition, yeah, it'll be a fricking amazing set. You have to decide if it's worth that kinda money though. It's also like 47KG, and a bitch to move around.

>> No.2418154

Not him, but investigate modelines in Linux. You're looking for a 15kHz output via VGA. Then you need either SCART, or an RGB monitor like a PVM.

>> No.2418156

Shit, the 2011P is the 900TVL high-spec version. The 2016P is the 600TVL unit.

>> No.2418162


"SSDs are placebo technology" is a /g/ meme, no one actually believes it.

>> No.2418207

Thanks for the help, it's worth a look at least. Maybe I could make an offer for it.

>> No.2418226
File: 1.52 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1580.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A component cable and a one of these guncon breakouts will get you RGB without needing to go the SCART+Breakout route.
Seems a bit silly to get a PVM and not use RGB though.

>can someone give me a crash course on BNC and what it means for retro gaming
It's a connector. That's all. It's like RCA, except more secure and better grounded.

What your asking is a worded a bit confusing.
That monitor only accepts 31khz+ RGBHV, either over an HD15 "VGA" connector or over 5 BNC connectors. Component "YPbPr" video would need to be fed through a transcoder to turn it into RGB for it to work on that monitor, and only if it was a 480p+ signal.
240p and 480i would NOT work not matter the source.

It would work for PS2 games that support 480p by putting the PS2 into RGB mode(rather than YPbPr). Activating 480p/Progressive Scan when in RGB mode would cause it to output RGsB "Sync on Green" which that monitor appears to support. Games that switch between 15khz and 31khz modes for cut-scenes and the like(Mega Man X8 is one) would go out of sync during said cut-scenes.
PS3 is able to be switched into RGsB system wide, so that would work as well.

The monitor would be nice for Dreamcast and PC usage, but anything retro would require being fed through a scaler/linedoubler.

>> No.2418294


Cool, thanks for the info.

I talked the guy into delivering it later tonight, which is nice because I loaned my car to a friend and don't know how else I would get a 50lb monitor to my house.

I was kind of hoping I could do DC VGA and PS2 Component on the same display to save space, but it's not a huge deal.

>> No.2418558

>Scanline emulation and higher density LCD displays are probably going to replace CRTs in the next 20 years.

It's gonna be a long while before we get a display truly worthy of replacing CRTs. To match or exceed color accuracy, you need IPS or OLED. To match or exceed contrast, only Plasma and OLED are really capable. To match motion quality, you need 120Hz plus strobing. To get a truly convincing CRT look through shaders, you need at least 4K resolution.

A display that puts all of this together, and with minimal input lag? We're in for a long ride, my friend.

>> No.2418564

Don't forget that TV manufacturers aren't advancing tech with retro gamers in mind.

>> No.2418578
File: 3.13 MB, 4160x3120, 2015-05-20 22.40.39.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2418614

I'm not particularly concerned about TVs, since those have always been a crapshoot for gaming. PC monitors is where we will someday find the holy grail.

>> No.2418989

>Seems a bit silly to get a PVM and not use RGB though.

PVMs look better even without RGB, so there's that. I've used my MD on TVs and on PVMs through composite, and the difference is very noticable.

>> No.2419087

i forget do you put the terminators on the ext sync, im to lazy to get up and check my pvm's

>> No.2419382

Posting this here as per Kya's suggestion. My old post is too old to delete, sorry for having this in two places at once. I'm in the DFW area.

So, I have two CRT arcade monitors that I intended to use following repair, but I don't have much interest in messing with a lot of different arcade stuff any more (I already have two other arcade projects to finish) so I probably won't be using them.

One is a WellsGardner, the other is... I don't recall. The non-WG model seemed to work with a decent picture but started to smoke after running for a minute or something. The WG I have no clue. I think I turned it on before I got it and it seemed to work, but please assume it is not working since that was just a short check some time ago and my memory is hazy. I can provide model details if someone thinks they'd be interested.

Both are totally free. You can take one or both. If they aren't taken, I will probably try to get rid of them on another site and if that doesn't work just trash them, but of course I'd rather see someone possibly use them for parts, the tube, or maybe even repair them. If anyone is interested, please post here and I will give out my email.

>> No.2419676

What does "TV lines" mean? It that vertical resolution?

>> No.2419824


It's the number of vertical lines, the equivalent for aperture grid monitors or dot pitch for shadow mask monitors..

>> No.2419849
File: 1.20 MB, 3280x2460, 102_0744.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It's a measure of horizontal sharpness, that is, how much information can be correctly and fully resolved on a horizontal plain.
A higher TVL count means more information can discretely resolved horizontally, and a monitor having a higher possible count requires both a higher dot/stripe pitch as well as a gun(s) capable of focusing on a smaller area.
This is why an 800 line or 900 line count PVM/BVM will have thicker scanlines than a 500 or 600 count model, despite that measure only being applied horizontally.

>> No.2419910

My nice new CRT monitor has some weird black shadows to the right of everything. At the moment, I'm just hoping it's due to a cheap cable, the shadowing seems fainter at lower resolutions, although that may just be the scaling playing tricks on me.

>> No.2419913

I have an opportunity to pick up a PVM 2044QM. I will be playing SNES, Mega Drive and Dreamcast mostly. Is there anything in particular I need to look out for on these models, such as remote included? I'm a total dunce when it comes to CRT.

>> No.2419915

There's a spot for a terminator, so i'd say use one and see what happens. I'm not actually sure what reflection on that line would do, as it's a pretty blocky/pulsed signal. If you're running through an amp or having problems, it might pull things back just far enough...?

>> No.2419920
File: 2.89 MB, 3264x2448, 20150522_110629.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Didn't mean to quote, sorry.

Here's an image of what I mean. Note the white boxes extending well past their boundaries, you can't see the text very well but it's pretty bad.

Hope this isn't a monitor for the skip, and this is just a shitty cheap cable issue. Anyone seen this before?

>> No.2419924

No remote needed for those. No on-screen display (OSD) either, so make sure it's working with the front dials unless you want to open it up. You'll want to feed it RGB to get the best picture (it won't do component, i don't think), so you have to both figure out how to get that out of your consoles, and into the PVM.

>> No.2419926

Some anon called this a few weeks ago... can't remember what he termed it. He was saying it's to do with white dots on a set with older capacitors, IIRC.

>> No.2419930

OK thanks. There's also a PVM14N6E near me, if I don't get the 20 would this be a good alternative?

>> No.2419935

I found a better cable, it's totally fine. Now I need to get a DVI-I to VGA adapter that isn't one of those shitty extenders, I don't have enough room at the back of my PC them.

Glad it was an easy fix. Remember kids, don't buy poor quality analog cables. They can make you shit your pants and think you bought a broken set.

>> No.2419954

As an aside, this thing is fucking beyond beautiful. I'd forgotten what a decent CRT monitor looked like after a decade of LCD shit.

The blacks are obscene.

>> No.2419975

It'll be pretty good. Smaller, obviously. Still takes RGB. No way is it worth more than about $30-$40 US though.


>> No.2419990

Could i connect my ps1 to my trinitron monitor (with bnc & vga inputs) via ps1 -》ps1/male scart cable -》 female scart/ bnc cable -》monitor? Or would i need something in between. I apologize for my ignorance in advance.

>> No.2419998

No. All retro consoles up to the DC put out 15khz stuff, PC monitors need 30khz+ stuff. A PS1 puts out RGB + CSync, a PC monitor requires RGB + Hsync + Vsync.

You'll need some kind of upscaler to connect the two, and at that point, you're better off just picking up a cheap 15khz display like a PVM. Dreamcast should look great over VGA though.

>> No.2420008

Nice. Not really bothered too much about size if I miss out on the 20" screen. Thanks for your help though, I'll report back once I've gathered the necessary cables!

>> No.2420013

Thank you so much. That makes sense to me.

>> No.2420123

My NES looks like shit compared to my full RGB SMS and I'm thinking of upgrading and modding the NES. What's the best way to go about doing this?

>tfw no good mp3 rip of Heaven or Hell

>> No.2420151

PAL or NTSC NES ? Honestly it would be a waste to fit a NESRGB on a 50hz NES...

>> No.2420164

>a PC monitor requires RGB + Hsync + Vsync.
Not explicitly. Some monitors will accept composite sync on H rather than requiring them be separate.

For example >>2418112
Sync would still need to be at the proper frequency though.

It should be noted the 2044QM will accept RGB or Component where the 14N6E is limited to RGB.
I'm also pretty sure the 2044 has a higher line count than the N6, so that may be something to consider as well.

>> No.2420212

Isn't NES emulation close to frame perfect these days? NESRGB costs retard money, and is a real hassle to install.

>> No.2420243

that's not the point.

>> No.2420647

How many people here have modded RGB into their old TVs? I just got my hands on a Trinitron and kinda want to try, but on the other hand I can just convert RGB to component and use that instead.

>> No.2420668
File: 703 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01613.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2420673

I always had one of these. TBH it's the only reason while I still have a CRT, to watch videotapes I made.

>> No.2420876


Okay, so I just picked up a monitor that's only 450 TVL. Would it, for example, have trouble properly displaying 480i||p content?

>> No.2421063
File: 915 KB, 3280x2460, 101_9957.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It'd be able to display whatever the monitor is designed to take. My Megaview, I believe, has a line count somewhere between 600 and 800, but will accept at least up to 1280x1024 as per its spec sheet. There's a 9'' BVM spec'd at 450 TVL(340 in 16:9) but will accept up to 1080i just like any other Multiformat model.
If the monitor is made to take 480i, it'll be able to display 480i just fine. The same goes for 480p or any other resolution that it may support.
Whether it'll be able to completely resolve every last detail of a given signal completely is a different matter, but 450 would be fine for just about anything retro.
CRTs and horizontal resolution are weird.

I'm still upset my save deleted itself.

>> No.2421070
File: 1.18 MB, 3280x2460, 102_0049.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>completely.. ..completely

>> No.2421208

change battery

>> No.2421269

Does an emulator on a crt look just as good?

>> No.2421378
File: 4.00 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140910_002051.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Depends on how you set it up.

>> No.2421736
File: 110 KB, 900x1200, reação.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So, I decided to randomly search for CRT vs LCD latency after watching MKX matches and I got into a forum discussing it which had an interesting test. I did it to see how my cheap LCD compares against my CRT monitor and the result was quite obvious: there's virtually no difference. My LCD monitor has a response time of 5ms, fyi. So, frankly, unless we're discussing really early models, this IS IRRELEVANT because there's no difference that could ever be perceived by the human eyes. The test was posted by the user philscomputerlab in the VOGONS forum- http://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=42713&sid=b9fefd42878a1a97712e54b3de8ffac9&start=20 -. This is it:


The top result is from my awfully cheap LCD and the bottom one from my CRT.

>> No.2422073


Add to this 5ms latency the time your LCD monitor is taking to convert a 160*120/256*224/320*240 analog video signal to a digital signal then upscale to it's native resolution and you have the effective lag you get when playing old games on these kinds of display
Of course you wont have this much lag when you're using a digital video signal through DVI-D at the native resolution of your monitor, but that's not the kind of stuff we're talking about here though..

>> No.2422078

Hopefully everyone can have lagless displays, either right now or in the future. I have a great CRT for old games, and I am perfectly happy with it.If others are happy with an LCD, awesome! It isn't a battle.

>> No.2422081

Monitor ? TV ? LCD Monitors usually fare decently. It's LCD tvs that induce lag because of processing, and the worst thing is many times the processing isn't totally removable. This especialy happens with HDMI, if tv has VGA input used, for some reason there's no processing and the lag is much better.

>> No.2422107

This. The signal processing is done by your graphics card, and the monitor has a pretty easy time.

Feed in a lower resolution signal with GPU scaling turned off to see how shitty the image scaling is.

That's the issue with TVs and game consoles. The shitty 720p signal has to be upscaled to 1080p by the monitor.

>> No.2422138

Is there a list of games that use dithering?

>> No.2422146


I got ahold of the monitor. Set me back a whopping $5, plus the couple bucks I threw to the guy for delivering a 48lb monitor to me.

It's absolutely gorgeous. I forgot how nice DC games look on a CRT monitor.

The thing now is to get a larger desk.

>> No.2422151


Too many to even brother making one.

>> No.2422289

Depends. Emu outputing 240p to a crt tv will look pretty much the same.
Emu outputing 480p + scanlines to a crt monitor won't be as good because monitor phosphors have much less bleeding

>> No.2422348

Does the 2044QM take component? The 2043MD definitely doesn't, and the 2054QM definitely does...

The 2044 is 600TVL, and the N^ models about 550TVL


>> No.2422349

*N6 models

>> No.2422357
File: 1.25 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1822.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It's not the battery. It will hold a save, just one of my recent ones deleted itself.

Analog RGB/Component

>> No.2422596
File: 371 KB, 2048x1536, 11334090_992645474109717_1445370371885561086_o.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>tfw found a guy selling this
>tfw no money to buy

>> No.2422601
File: 411 KB, 2048x1536, 11357018_992645457443052_14291432786297333_o.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2422676



No thanks
Also, this is the CRT thread m8, go post it elsewhere

>> No.2423094
File: 26 KB, 400x400, 1146545598261.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I just got a CRT today and I have a quick question. It was just a free one that I got for picking it up as the owner died, but on the back I noticed there were component, SVID and RGB. I'd like to hook my computer up to the TV for playing old PC games, emulators, or even current PC games that run in low 4:3 resolution (i.e. Touhou.) My GTX 660 has a display port, HDMI and an extra DVI not in use, so I know I'll need some sort of converter, but what should I look for for best quality, one that will hook up to the component, SVID, or the RGB? Also any other considerations I should keep in mind?

>> No.2423107

I'm curious what model it is

>> No.2423128

RCA 27V530T
Pic Related.

Not great, but it'll do.

>> No.2423132
File: 3.70 MB, 5248x2952, IMG_20150523_165944730 - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2423282
File: 64 KB, 960x720, 11297806_1050811531614506_859497774_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just got an HD 27" Sony WEGA, anyone have any recommended video settings? For what it's worth I'm using it for a PS2 with S-video cables and a Wii with Component Cables.
I prefer a sharp picture with good color, if that makes a difference.
I already changed the aspect ratio from 16:9 (like in pic related) to 4:3.

>> No.2423307
File: 372 KB, 1229x819, ded_crash.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2423502


>> No.2423559


What is this, a BVM-20F1?

>> No.2423570

gotta find a table or something for it so I can actually set it up and play some games

>> No.2423587


I'm not so sure bleeding is necessarily a good thing. As long as the picture is bright and vibrant, 480p + scanlines on a CRT is good.

>> No.2423605

Problem is, just inserting lines literally halves the brightness, which can be a problem on a lot of monitors. Some Mitsubishi and NEC monitors come with a SuperBright mode that compensates for this, however.

>> No.2423752

color bleeding and blooming is what softens picture. They're essential elements of crt tv display and are what makes using crt tv worth.
Using crt monitor you lose them because of the much more tinier and quicker phosphors.

>> No.2423928
File: 2.85 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150523_231432.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2423930
File: 4.00 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150523_234314.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.2423949
File: 47 KB, 453x604, 1915478_100285473334121_1155898_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

No idea why a person wouldn't rather see the pixels all crisp like via computer emulation. No offense. I realize it's all preference. But I don't think it's how the games were really meant to look. Is it just a nostalgia kick?

>> No.2423979

That's a fine opinion to have. That's not the opinion we in /crt/ have, most of the time. Whatever you like.

>> No.2423983

Whether you like softer pixels with scanlines or not comes down to preference. That is but one aspect of CRT tech when it comes to retro games. Motion, responsiveness, colors, and contrast are just as important, and all are areas where newer tech matches up against CRTs in maybe one or two.

>> No.2423996
File: 83 KB, 1000x558, vsc500-lg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Are you sure your CRT can take RGB video? The user manual says that it takes composite, s-video, and component, but not RGB.

Anyways, If your video card's DVI port is DVI-I port, then it can output VGA. If that is the case, then you have two options AFAIK:

1. If your card is compatible, there's software like Soft-15KHz that can make the video card output 15KHz RGB. You'd then have to have a VGA adapter that would let you connect to the RGB on the CRT. If the CRT doesn't have RGB, then you'd also need an RGB to Component converter.

2. Get an Extron VSC 500 or one of the similar Extron converters. You can feed it VGA video and then set it to output RGB or Component video. They usually cost around $100 though.

>> No.2424001

You could argue that the games were developed with CRT in mind and were designed accordingly or you could argue that the designers would want their work to look as good as possible which in the modern day could be emulated to remove the aliasing. I'm more of the latter but I'd love to get my hands on bvm and be proven wrong.

I really love the closeups of the crt screens that the people in this thread post and keeps me interested in this thread though I don't really post that much.

>> No.2424027

>1. If your card is compatible, there's software like Soft-15KHz
That card will need a dongle from arcadeshop.de. CRU might be able to override EDID, mb try that first for VGA/RGB?

>pixels all crisp
3d games are often graphically ok, but the environments can look kinda empty and weird. N64 does best, IMO

>> No.2424169
File: 13 KB, 642x224, dithering.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Because games were made to look a certain way when the pixels were blended together.

>> No.2424192

Welcome back to the 1990s, enjoy hand-hacking your xorg.conf.

>> No.2424204
File: 68 KB, 1024x768, $_86[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

There are bum loads of Trinitrons on gumtree in London. Would something like this be suitable for retro gaming on? People are literally giving them away.

This one is a KD-36NX200U

>> No.2424208
File: 715 KB, 629x758, 1427517689087.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>tfw 65 inch dlp on one wall and two lcd monitors on my desk so there is literally no room for a crt for retro gaymen

>> No.2424209

>tfw 2 crts in 5m2 room
this is suffering
36" are all 4:3 right? If its SD Crt then go for it
aslo enjoy your back pain

>> No.2424210

Try to find a 4:3 one and make sure it has scart

>> No.2424216

No it's 16:9 afaik, according to the manual anyway. I wish I could get this, I'm in between houses at the moment.

Who knows, if its still there in a week or so I might just go pick it up, put it next to my PVM.

>> No.2424218

This is in the UK, so it has 2 RGB SCART inputs along with the usual others.

>> No.2424220

Is scart a meme connection? I've never seen it in my life in person. USA btw

>> No.2424224

developed countries only

>> No.2424225


Oh, it's real son.

>> No.2424234

Did this just start? Are you sure your R isn't cranked up too high?

>> No.2424280

Honestly, you're better off just waiting for a PVM to pop up on eBay for cheap. You can get them delivered for 50-70 quid, and the picture is way nicer than consumer sets.

I'd consider buying one of those big 16:9 sets if it supports HD resolutions for 6th gen, but they're not great for retro.

>> No.2424282
File: 27 KB, 246x244, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2424382

It's been doing this since I got it about half a year ago. I've tried adjusting the R cutoff and gain but the effect stays regardless.

>> No.2424406
File: 54 KB, 624x448, 1392456231118.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Sorry, I couldn't read your post because it was displayed at 50Hz

>> No.2424415


Can we leave /pol/int/ shit out ?
However anon let's not forget the existence of PAL60 and that scart can visualize with no problem ntsc colors and 60Hz.

>> No.2424417


>> No.2424640
File: 100 KB, 298x750, Megaplay2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>It's OK when Sega does it.

>> No.2424734
File: 25 KB, 400x400, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>NTSC SNES with euroscart

>> No.2425540
File: 105 KB, 960x720, 11264356_1051442388218087_2048452100_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2425560
File: 55 KB, 960x720, 11287266_1051442364884756_1895867769_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Oh yeah I also noticed some bleeding or whatever. The brighter the display and color, the more "bleeding" occurs. Its the worst with whites. It's also more severe the closer you get to the corners and edge of the TV.
Anyone know a way to fix this without minimizing brightness?
Pic related, I tried to get a picture of it.
The "World Map" part is close to the edge of the screen and more blurred, but its kinda hard to tell.

>> No.2425617

How is vga not rgb? I appreciate it's not component but I've used many passive vga -> rgb dongles.

>> No.2425697

RGB usually refers to 15khz RGB+composite for sync used by tvs.
Some PC monitors have BNC inputs labeled as RGBHV, but it's essentially the same as VGA, and is 31khz. Finding monitors that accept both 15 and 31 khz is next to impossible.

>> No.2425762

Bad corners with colors not lining up is most likely a convergence issue. I think some monitors might have convergence controls but I don't know how well even those work. Otherwise you need to mess with putting magnets on the back of the tube. Look up convergence adjustment monitor or something for more info. Most likely you will just learn to live with it.

>> No.2425774

Oh, it can also be a focus issue as well. Your display might have focus adjustments easily accessible or you might have to open it up and adjust a potentiometer.

>> No.2425829
File: 124 KB, 800x600, 1412030270393.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hello /crt/

perhaps this is blasphemy here but I was wondering if playing games (on my NES) would suffer any sort of problems on a rear-projection tv?

I'm not at all familiar with rear-projection tvs so this could be an incredibly poorly informed understanding but its comparable to using a real projector right? I guess, really, my closest experience to gaming on a rear projection tv is probably playing N64 on an actual projector which seemingly looks quite nice.

I have a chance to get a 68" rear projection tv (which has a huge assortment of inputs including coaxial for my NES) for $100 from my uncle and am trying to gauge if it would be worth it.

tl;dr input on rear projection tvs?

pic unrelated but pretty neat

>> No.2425849

It would work just fine. The games are designed to be played on any tv. Not a specific model/style. Anyone that says otherwise is a retard.

>> No.2425854

As long as you aren't primarily playing light gun games, you'll be perfectly fine.

>> No.2425857
File: 81 KB, 768x640, Sonic3_us_manual_01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>The games are designed to be played on any tv.

Except, you know, rear-projection TVs. Just about every video game manual since they've been out has a warning about it.

>> No.2425872
File: 2.75 MB, 4608x3456, snes-angle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hi, PVM-20L5 owner here, from last thread. I'm the one who got the free PVM and the free smaller panasonic screen.

Here's what I did instead of all that SCART nonsense. More pics and internal pics to follow.

Basically, addded four RCA jacks to the back of the console, because while you CAN get RGB out of the multi-out port, that seems to require SCART and additional cables and monies.

As another benefit of this, I don't have to worry about putting capacitors on the cable or anything - they are inside the console itself. And with easily locally available RCA to BNC adapters (I live in a place where a store bought out Radio Shack's stock, and we also have Sweetwater Sound close by), I was able to connect this to my monitor extremely cheaply.

>> No.2425874

Isn't that just to caution against burn-in issues though? Can't that be avoided by just not leaving the TV on while a game is paused for extended periods of time?

>> No.2425876

No, those are cool, but usually lack most inputs.

I opted for an apple IIe composite monitor when given a pick, because the IIe has a better screen.

>> No.2425881

Yep, it's burn-in. Also the RPTV's are really really 'burn out' prone. Awesome when they work, though, and the lens can burn things really well if you take it out.

>> No.2425887
File: 3.23 MB, 4608x3456, sneschrono1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's an image of it with a game before I get into taking it apart.

>> No.2425889

Yes, that's exactly what they're warning about.

>Can't that be avoided by just not leaving the TV on while a game is paused for extended periods of time?

No. Remember, video games, especially old ones, have HUDs that are on-screen for the majority of the game. All CRTs can potentially suffer from burn-in but rear-projection TVs were very, very susceptible to it. Play a game in one sitting for too long and you might be seeing MARIO at the top left of your screen for the rest of its life.

>> No.2425914
File: 3.06 MB, 4608x3456, sneswiring.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's a little wiring.

There are a lot of capacitors because I could only find one 220uf cap - to get the other RGB lines to the same level (cutting out 1V DC), I ran smaller caps in parallel: two 100uf's and two 10uf's in the place of one 220uf capacitor.
You are supposed to put a 220uf capacitor on the R, G, and B lines between them and the TV somewhere.
Due to using four in the place of one in two of the three cases, I ended up adding 9 capacitors. But you can do it with 3 if you have 3 220uf's.
Since larger caps are almost always polarized, ALWAYS put the positive leg toward the console and negative leg toward the TV.

>> No.2425924
File: 1.12 MB, 2048x1536, 2015-03-28 00.54.01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

A bit unrelated to your mod, but does the 20L5 have any pots to adjust geometry on the inside? Mine has some slight inward curve warping that I can't fix digitally in the menu for the life of me and I'm too much of a baby to open it and probably kill myself painfully.

>> No.2425939

Not opened mine up...

Can you try the service menu? On the 20L5 at least you hit the 'MENU' key, and then WHILE IN THE MENU hold 'ENTER' and 'DEGAUSS' together. May be different on yours.

Besides that, there probably are on the inside... there have been on every CRT I've ever owned made after 1990. But I'd try the OSD first, and the pots if the OSD doesn't go far enough either way to fix your problem.

I'll open it up and check sometime.

>> No.2425941
File: 121 KB, 364x273, multiav-NTSC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anyway, another pic.

Here's the pinout to get the signals from. Note that in PAL regions, the sync signal isn't there. Instead there is a 12V line.

Not sure how PAL consoles sync, but I suppose you could always get a sync stripper IC from Texas Instruments as a 'sample' for free, and use that to extract a sync signal from your composite output.

I used the RF modulator's "GND" line for ground, because it was getting crowded over in the Multi-Out port area, and because it was clearly labeled as ground. I tested with a continuity tester to be sure first, though.

To clarify, the image attached is actually from a N64 with the RGB line labels added.

>> No.2425946

Oh, duh, that's the SNES and not the insides of the monitor in your picture, nevermind.

That picture of mine -is- the service menu, though. There's no combination of configurations that doesn't just fuck it up further. It infuriates me trying to fix it because I can never get it to look just right and it's blatantly apparent how bad it is when things start scrolling vertically. I've messed around with it for countless upon countless hours and that picture is the best I can get it.

>> No.2425954

I ran wires out of there, up to the capacitor board. In my case, I used some solid core CAT5 cable for everything because I have about 25 meters of it (long story).

you don't HAVE to use a board, I just did because I was putting some capacitors in parallel and the leads weren't very long due to me recycling them from boards taken from washing machines, broken amplifiers, etc..
Anyway, be sure polarity is right. Take the output from that and run it to some RCA jacks.

>> No.2425958
File: 2.72 MB, 4608x3456, snescapacitor board.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

whoops, no pic.

scrolling vertically? adjust vertical hold.
I actually have a really nice old apple monitor that makes that control a dial on the back :)

>> No.2425967
File: 3.55 MB, 4608x3456, court.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Chrono Trigger had beautiful graphics.

>> No.2425976

Actually, I think the Vertical Hold is internal.
I can say that if you are careful most CRT's won't actually kill you :)

BE CAREFUL, but if you discharge it, you're mostly safe. Be wary of large capacitors.

I'll crack mine open and see what we're dealing with. I've worked on two CRT's before.

>> No.2425984
File: 71 KB, 989x845, 20L5 Geometry.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>scrolling vertically? adjust vertical hold.

It's not that, I've tried, assuming that's what V C LIN is. You can kind of see the issue if you scroll up and down in my 240p Suite picture and looking directly at the left side of the service menu. It kind of goes in a wave pattern. Messing with the configs either puts that "wave" either on the left, right, or middle, but I can't get rid of it entirely. Once I think I do, it's on the other side, and it's so tough to do by myself because you have to sit directly in front of the monitor to press the buttons and the problems aren't really apparent until you're sitting a comfortable distance away. Hurts my eyes sitting so close and checking a grid while I'm messing with it, too.

How exactly do you discharge a television or monitor? I've hold that they hold a charge even if they've been unplugged for several years. I've taken apart plenty of electronics before but I've never dealt with a CRT, mostly because of horror stories.

>> No.2425997

>Not sure how PAL consoles sync, but I suppose you could always get a sync stripper IC from Texas Instruments as a 'sample' for free, and use that to extract a sync signal from your composite output.
Don't really see the point in doing that unless a given monitor needs pure csync. Cvid for sync is the standard for SCART and Luma would work as well.

>> No.2426017

In that case, I guess hooking composite to the sync line would work fine.

Ah. is it actually like that? or more like a slight ripple on the side of the screen? I have a computer monitor trinitron that has something that looks like 'shimmering' on the far left edge.

And I opened up the CRT, saw three trimmers that based on their positions are NOT meant to be adjusted. You'd have to remove the CRT to get to them. So no, for all intents and purposes, the 20L5 does not have internal trimmers.

>> No.2426020

P.S. if you do need pure csync, the TI part number is LM1881.

>> No.2426042
File: 672 KB, 2448x1836, discharge1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

you take a flat screwdriver WITH A PLASTIC HANDLE, and a wire of some kind. use a binderclip or alligator clip to clip the wire to the shaft of the screwdriver, and clip the other end to the chassis somewhere. On the last TV I did, there was a metal spring connecting to the chassis, which is usually the metal things at the corners of the front of the CRT, up near the bezel and everything. Anyway, I clipped to the bezel.

In the pic, it's a little hard to see, but I have the alligator clip hooked to the chassis.

Be sure NOT to use an antistatic mat or anything while doing this. That mat is BAD in this case.

With this done, being SURE you aren't touching anything metal, slip the screwdriver under the suction cup on the tube. push the screwdriver forward until you hit the metal thing at the center of the suction cup, and you will hear a SNAP if the tube has been on recently. otherwise, make sure you hit it repeatedly.
Wait a few seconds after doing this, and do it again with the screwdriver. You may hear a second 'snap', softer this time. It's discharged some extra from the capacitors. Anyway, with this done, it's not far more safe (though still not 100% safe) to work on. Be careful and don't ground yourself to something while working, and don't put your finger/a screwdriver across relays or capacitor leads.

>> No.2426051


Don't know what I was thinking. I clipped to the spring.

>> No.2426058
File: 2.13 MB, 3264x2448, 2014-03-03 17.16.20.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Ah. is it actually like that? or more like a slight ripple on the side of the screen?

It's more like a ripple across the entire screen that only becomes noticeable when the screen scrolls vertically. Playing an RPG or anything else that lets you go up and down freely is a bummer. If you scroll up and down in this picture you can kind of see it in action if just looking at the picture doesn't show you the issue. Not very noticeable when playing 3D games, though. It could be a lot worse, but it's really a shame.

>And I opened up the CRT, saw three trimmers that based on their positions are NOT meant to be adjusted. You'd have to remove the CRT to get to them. So no, for all intents and purposes, the 20L5 does not have internal trimmers.

Oh, oh well, thank you for checking! Guess it's just a matter of fiddling around with the service menu for who knows how much longer.

Thanks for this, either way, I'll keep it in mind if I ever decide to delve into goofing around with one someday.

>> No.2426072


Please don't use a hodgepodge of binder clips (which may not make contact) and other crap. While a color CRT is unlikely to kill you, it's bite is not something I'd want some random kid on the internet to experience because of bad or hasty information.

If you need to do it the cheap way, get a simple alligator test lead and an exposed metal bodied flat-head screwdriver.

Clip one end of the lead to the screwdriver, the other to either A: The metal frame of the chassis if working on an arcade chassis or B: the aquadag spring/strap.

Work the flathead tip under the anode cup and touch the clip inside. You'll hear a spark, assuming what you're working on doesn't have bleeders in it already.

Don't trust the first discharge. Wait 10 seconds and try again. Repeat this until you don't hear sparking anymore.

Anode cup should be safe to remove at this point. 99.9% of them are forked and only require compression to remove from the anode hole.

Some notes:
Don't touch any part of the exposed metal of the screwdriver while doing this. Average voltage in a color CRT is right about 22kv and packs one heck of a bite.

Clip the alligator onto the screwdriver as high on the shaft as you can, to give you some room to manuver the flat of the screwdriver under the anode cup.

Don't scratch the glass or dig under the cup. It's silicone and will lift up with gentle prodding.

Other alternatives are permanently attaching a wire to the screwdriver. You can grind the plating off, drill a hole through the center of the shaft, then solder the wire permanently. Bob Roberts has an excellent writeup on this.

If you find yourself in CRT's all the time, do the smart thing and invest in a proper CRT HV Probe. Not only are they useful diagnostic and safety tools, they can properly (slowly) bleed down your CRT without all this bodging.

>> No.2426097

If your whites are 'blooming' you need to turn the brightness/ contrast down

>> No.2426106

I did this with my consolised MVS. Not so good if you want to use a switcher box as the amount of cabling gets crazy and you will have to mod it into every console you get.

>> No.2426116

The line droop can be a sign the capacitance is under spec somewhere, so you might be right with that guess.

>> No.2426126

>Chrono Trigger -HAS- beautiful graphics.

>> No.2426293
File: 2.71 MB, 720x406, 2015-05-25_03-18-58_163_1.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

sup /crt/,

I recently inherited a fuckhuge CRT projector for literally nothing (save the rugburn on my knuckles from moving it). apparently it had a bulb out. I figured those wouldn't be too hard to replace. upon turning the TV on, I immediately noticed the lack of red. cool, so the red bulb is out. guess I'll open the TV and get a part number. so I take the big back off (fairly painless, actually). and my little shit cat sits on the remote, turning the TV on (I know, I know). I hear it fire up, and pic related happens.

so the bulb very clearly isn't burnt out, unless projector TV bulbs operate differently or something. any ideas? it's a Zenith ZR56Z83R. other than the color being off, the picture quality itself is pretty good.

>> No.2426296

Wow, I haven't seen one of those in ages. Those used to be the shit. Get yourself a waterbed and live the dream , 1979 style.

>> No.2426328
File: 1.05 MB, 3264x1840, 2015-05-25_04-11-57_589.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

seriously. It's fucking huge.

>> No.2426361


It's going to cost you more to replace that bulb than it would cost to buy a Trinitron or something. To each their own.

>> No.2426368

but the bulb clearly works. that's why I'm curious.

also, according to https://www.partstore.com/Part/LG+Electronics+Incorporated/LG+Electronics%2fZenith/RZ56Z83R/LG+Electronics+Incorporated/LG+Electronics%2fZenith/A17552/New.aspx

a new lens and housing is about 130$. I'll eat that to have a fuckhuge TV to play retro on.

>> No.2426372

My first assumption is there's some kind of heat sensor in or around each bulb to shut it off if it gets too hot, and the red one is malfunctioning. I'd check all the solder joints and caps, just in case.

>> No.2426375


For one, I think you're romanticizing the idea of having a huge TV a bit too much. There's a reason most of the diehards in this thread use 14"-20" TVs. Secondly, rear-projection TVs are notorious for having fuzzy/blurry visuals, low brightness levels, awful viewing angles, and a litany of other problems in addition to the unreliability of the hardware itself. For $130 I could buy a really nice Sony CRT and a blowjob.

>> No.2426391

>and a blowjob.
We're still in a recession, eh?

>> No.2426395


I was gonna say; looks like an overheat/short type situation to me. Good luck anon.

>> No.2426462

Ok, I may try a cap kit then. I guess I just needed some hope that my tube wasn't irreparably broken.

>> No.2426520
File: 25 KB, 320x240, Sharp 14 PSI c kecil.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How good are 14" sharp lapiz TVs?

>> No.2426812

What are you getting your cross-hatch signal from?

>> No.2426813

No shit. I did extensive conductivity tests on them.

And this is exactly what I said to do, BTW. so I don't know why you're repeating it.

>> No.2426818

I didn't know square was still making SNES games.

>> No.2426820

Main reason for 14 to 20 inch is that those are the largest sized PVMs.

>> No.2426828
File: 2.98 MB, 4608x3456, snes-town-3mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

PVM-20L5 again.

>> No.2426834
File: 2.93 MB, 4608x3456, porygon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

and one last image, because I just watched that seizure episode of pokemon on it.

>> No.2426949

also, you didnt notice, but those are test leads.

>> No.2427043 [SPOILER] 
File: 2.70 MB, 3264x2448, 1432578312424.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

also, save the flyback transformer.
Had the same thing happen to me a few months ago when I had my pvm shipped.
>board has san andreas fault running through middle
>ship me another
>luck out, it works.

I stripped the everloving fuck out of that old one's broken board. Caps, flyback, button microswitches, ICs, connectors, everything.
Keep it, replacement parts can keep your unit running for a long time, and you ain't gonna find 'em an easier way. learn 2 desolder.

pic related, was the board.

>> No.2427180
File: 56 KB, 740x623, Scart-Cable_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yo /crt/, I have a spare composite cable for my wii and a fuckload of pic related

is there any way i could mash together an RGB scart cable ?

>> No.2427201

Any reason in particular you want RGB from your Wii instead of Component?

>> No.2427204

my bad, misread composite as component. still, component wii cables are pretty damn cheap.

>> No.2427206

I plan on buying actual cables for RGB SCART & component but I was wondering if there was a way I could make some ghetto ones with what I have.
Allthough the output isn't too bad right now over composite.
It's for my trinitron upstairs that has RGB scart.

>> No.2427209

I highly doubt it that the (official) Wii connector has all pins to make it possible.
Also, the best SCART cables are about 10mm thick and double screened (audio, video lines have their own separate shielding plus another shield which surrounds all wires).

You can something similar what I did:
Buy a ultra cheap cable for your Wii which has all pins and open the plug which goes to the Wii. Then solder the cutoff SCART cable to the Wii connector, don't forget to add correct components in between.

>> No.2427223

Best I don't fuck a spare cable up then, I've checked online and both the RGB scart and Component cables are pretty cheap.

The composite video quality actually impressed me compared to how bad the PS2\PS1's composite output is

>> No.2427228

One more question regarding wii, In the megadrive emulator, If you turn interlacing off is that actual 240p via composite?
It looks great and I can see strong scanlines

>> No.2427240

well great in comparison to when i was using an og xbox as an emulator machine

>> No.2427260
File: 957 KB, 3280x2460, Wii Composite.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Genesis Plus GX on the Wii supports 240p perfectly fine over composite.

>> No.2427265

thank you kya, you're a great asset to these threads.
someone in another thread told me you can't do 240p over composite.

>> No.2427267

Why don't you guys get flatscreen crts?
You always get the shitty ones with awful images.

>> No.2427273

don't they have geometry problems ?
i know ours did after just a few years and my 20 year old trinitron works fine

>> No.2427319

Composite can't do 480p.
240p and 480i(+PAL equivalents) are pretty much all it can do. You get your choice of interlaced signal or thrown together low-res progressive signal.

Not retro, but I had a thought recently; I wonder if it would be possible to modify a PSP in a way so as to output what would usually be displayed on the LCD as a PAL60 signal, being that it would fit within it's 288px height limit.
There'd be problems with aspect ratio, I'm sure, but still a pretty neat idea.

>> No.2427338

Dumb question: I'm getting a brand new 25" CRT for my mamecab, but it's 15khz only. Will there be any trouble with some modern games requiring 30khz, since I'm not using the real arcade pcbs but an emulator?

>> No.2427342

Didn't win either of the PVM I was bidding on, but have won a nice trinitron 14 inch to tide me over until another one comes up locally.

>> No.2427381
File: 3.84 MB, 3264x2448, 20150525_213522.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Well my plan is RGB scart for my emulators, then component for gamecube games.
The colors aren't as good on composite (obviously) compared to the same ps2 ports I was playing in RGB scart (patched to 240p)
I'd mess with settings but I cant figure out this universal remote.
Happy though, I payed just 25 euros for this wii.

>> No.2427393

I haven't owned a CRT in seven years (it exploded in a thunderstorm) but I've kinda wanted to get one for my Dreamcast to play 2D fighters and shmups. Are the benefits of CRT exclusive to high-end models or should I be fine with whatever I find at Goodwill?

>> No.2427412

hey folks just gotten myself a CRT monitor and here's a question:
Does the quality of the VGA cable matter?

>> No.2427432


Depends. If you think the image qaulity looks like shit or is particularly 'noisy', it probably could stand to be replaced.

>> No.2427473

Top-Loader NES fag here.

I've seen there is a solid variety in available A/V output mods. Would you consider any of them to be... "idiot proof" ?

I'd really like RGB or even component output, but I don't want to buy a kit only to realize I'm unable to put it together OR buy a kit and ruin my NES (which based on eBay prices would run me $100+ to replace).

I have basic soldering skills, I think my main concern may be installing the ports in the back of the NES to be honest - I'd feel awful if it came out looking poorly.

>> No.2427489

all nes mods that are more than adding composite/audio outs require quite a lot of soldering and desoldering.
Desoldering the PPU for nesrgb is a pain without a desoldering gun.

>> No.2427591
File: 1.00 MB, 3280x2460, 100_7387.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>RGB scart for my emulators, then component for gamecube games
If it's all being done on the same TV/monitor, why not just use component straight up?

>> No.2427607

i should have clarified
I've a HDTV downstairs that ill be using when friends are over (It's just there and I don't need to lug down a CRT)

But I've a trinni in my room for /vr/ stuff

>> No.2427627
File: 991 KB, 3280x2460, 100_5866.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

That makes sense.

My Wii has had some odd black speckling when displaying 480i or 480p over component and I'm wondering what is causing it; The cables(admittedly cheap) or if the GPU has been shitting itself for the past 3 years straight. First time I remember noticing it was SSBB on my LCD but MM9 suffers from it on the PVM as well.

>> No.2427636

What does /CRT/ think of LPD?

>> No.2427673

holy shit man

Get a new tube if possible? That'd get you two for less than the price of two. the service manual should say what the tube is if you can't find it otherwise.

and be careful as fuck handling it. You don't want an implosion.

>> No.2427690
File: 428 KB, 480x800, Screenshot_2015-05-25-17-58-34.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Proud owner of a KV32FS120 and a KV20FSU here. Girlfriend and I were lucky to see her neighbors were giving away a KV27FS100 for free and in amazing condition so we snagged it. Any recommendations on the output settings I should set for this thing?

Pic Related

>> No.2427775
File: 3.42 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_0784.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

the picture tube will probably last people like us a very very long time. (low hours compared to their old life in a production studio/hospital)

I lucked out and my first picture tube was undamaged, but I doubt I'll ever need it. Most likely is that the flyback will go before the picture tube, and even then, without a tube (heavy/sketchy to ship, pricey) having a replacement flyback is probably the way to go. and arcade machine will sometimes go through 1 or 2 flyback transformers before the tube is toast. but these are sonys, and they may last a bit longer than an arcade flyback.
and there's always tube rejuvenation, but that doesn't always work.

>> No.2427824
File: 1021 KB, 1920x1080, IMG_0818.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Brother! I've got a 32FS120 as well. The 27 should give you about the same picture, but without all the geometry woes the 32 inch sets have. Turn off any unnecessary sharpness, and keep the brightness as low as you can.

>> No.2427843

Can't really recommend any video settings, but get a set of component cables for your ps2 when you get a chance. That tv can take up to a 1080i signal, but s-video can only put out a max of 480i, you'll need component cables to get the best quality video for your ps2.

I got a set of Sony brand ps3 component cables a couple years ago, maybe $15 or $20, totally compatible with the ps2. Worth every penny.

>> No.2427904


Much thanks, brother!

>> No.2428037

After a half of year of moving around, finally settled and decided to pull out my old systems and crt i've been using for 25-ish years.

CRT is dead, discoloration, tilt, bulb looks half blown.
Need a crt for NES-PS2/GC, willing to drop 200 USD, could use recommendations.

>> No.2428248

Post your local craigslist and I'll find you a good one.

>> No.2428716

Using Linux, how do I get a resolution of 3840x480 or whatever for emulation?

>> No.2428732

What do you mean how do you get it? You enter that as your modeline, and an appropriate framerate.

If you meant how do i edit modelines in Linux, google that :) Super Resolution would be another relevant term.

>> No.2428736


>If you meant how do i edit modelines in Linux, google that
That's what I needed, thanks.

>> No.2428737

>mfw no crts in my area on craigslist.

>> No.2428837


Any CRT will have the benefit of zero response time. Better CRTs will have better image quality, though. At the very least, get something with an s-video input.

>> No.2428959
File: 1.33 MB, 1440x1080, 2015-05-26 15.25.41.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have a crap noname CRT monitor that actually displays a pretty sharp image - however, scanlines are rather minimal at 640*480 and that's as low as it goes(including custom resolutions) so I simply run 240p games @ 480p and delete every second line.
pixels look "wide" on this close up, but it's actually not noticable during game play

looks nice enough for me

>> No.2428964

I'd like to try out 1280*960 and delete every fourth line - but sadly the monitor doesn't support this.
my guess is that this would look quite nice and might be a good way to play 240p games on high-res CRTs that don't support 240p natively

>> No.2428973

also, don't mind the GBA game (which is 160p of course)
I just like the splash screen and it's cropped - so 240p with black borders upscaled as 480p

>> No.2429047
File: 68 KB, 1598x898, 02_1930613123.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can anyone help identify what model this is? It's a "Philips natural motion crt". He's giving it away. Is it worth it?

>> No.2429125
File: 107 KB, 500x360, images.duckduckgo.com.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Don't bother, he threw it away.

>> No.2429327
File: 3.08 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150225_195831.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

640x480 is suboptimal for emulation, because a lot of games did not display at an integer multiple of that resolution, so you'd either get non-integer scaling artifacts or inaccurate aspect ratios. It's better to use a superwide resolution like 3840x480 and use that to scale games to, because then the scaling artifacts (if there even are any, 3840 is an integer scale of 256, 320, 384, and several others) will be too small for your monitor to resolve.

Blacking out every other line on 480p is the closest thing to actual 240p, but since that reduces brightness by 50% you'll have to adjust the CRT's settings to compensate some how. Some CRTs are able to boost their luminosity a whole lot from their default settings and will therefore have no disadvantages displaying 240p this way, but that depends on what model CRT you have. This can handle 480i games as well if your black lines will oscillate, there's a pixel shader that will do that.

The other option is to simply do 240p with 120Hz refresh rate. By itself, this won't have reduced brightness, but the motion will be worse due to frame doubling, which can be fixed by inserting black frames (which reduces brightness just like black lines, and is also quite sensitive to frame timing variations). 480i games will get downscaled with this display mode.

>> No.2429353

I've tried it on my Diamondtron. It's shit. It looks exactly like doing the same thing on an LCD. Pixels still look super blocky, just with black lines inserted. With 480p, for whatever reason, even without adding horizontal blur, pixels look slightly round, and bloom somewhat.

I may have to take a couple of pictures later to show what I'm talking about.

>> No.2429398
File: 2.05 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150526_144635215_HDR.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I bought a CRT TV from a thriftshop near my house. It's a Philips magnavox 27ms3404. Anyway, the picture is a bit off center. Is there any way to fix this?

>> No.2429421
File: 535 KB, 4160x2340, 1t3MBek.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My Sony-GDM5402, sadly it's not used for much retro gaming unless you consider STALKER and Counter-Strike ~retro~ but whatever.

160Hz vertical/121kHz horizontal.

>> No.2429534

the beam is much narrower at 960. The vertical edges get more defined.

>> No.2430946

Okay so I know nothing about good CRT's but I recently picked up an NES and have started on a collection but I keep hearing about how bad they look on LCD tv's. They don't look awful to me but hey my memory of how NES games looked back when I was originally playing them is fuzzy and if they could look better I'd like to make that happen.
What are some good CRT's that I could choose?

>> No.2430960

Any SD Trinitron is a good place to start. So nothing HDTV or EDTV capable, no 720p or 1080i sets, probably something 4:3. There are a ton of these things on ebay, craigslist, gumtree...

>> No.2431023

there probably is but you will have to open it up.

>> No.2431034

Thank you!

>> No.2431285
File: 945 KB, 1500x1125, IMG_20150526_152911.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Found this CRT monitor at a thrift store, didnt pick it up but thinking about it. Can someone tell me if its worth it?

>> No.2431312

Samsung Syncmaster CRTs were great, but I think that's an older model that is not as powerful.

Do note that you will only use it for your PC however, since it cannot do 15khz.

>> No.2431317

It's reasonable for old stuff. 17 inches, 1024x768 is about the limit. It'll support a higher resolution, but with a shitty refresh rate.

>> No.2431597

What's the best way to connect consoles to a VGA CRT?

>> No.2431625

You'd need an upscalerlike the XRGB and it'll add input lag when you play on it.

With 6th gen you can get VGA cables for the PS2 but you'd need a SoG monitor and one that'll display 480i signals (if such a thing exists). GC you'd need to mod a $200 cable and I dont think OG Xbox supported VGA. PS3 and 360 both support VGA, I think the unofficial Wii VGA cable is just a component to VGA converter or something.

>> No.2431652

wouldn't a sync strike work?

>> No.2431672

>With 6th gen you can get VGA cables for the PS2 but you'd need a SoG monitor
You can get RGsB from a PS3 with just a standard component cable. You could either go the custom cable route or just chain together various adapters.
>and one that'll display 480i signals (if such a thing exists)

PS2 will NOT output RGsB when in 15khz mode, and requires a separate sync connector in such situations. A "VGA monitor" that would accept 480i wouldn't have any major hoops to jump through to connect consoles up to it, aside from maybe a sync stripper.

PS3 can output RGsB in the same way as the PS2, but will do it system wide. Limited to 480p however.

>I think the unofficial Wii VGA cable is just a component to VGA converter or something.
Correct. The cables I see are always PS3+Wii cables, so you could get 720p or 1080p that way. Can't say how the quality would be though.

Sync Strike is just a sync stripper.

>> No.2431906

hey, /vr/. im looking to get a cool component/rgb crt. i found a PVM-1354Q for about 100 bucks. i only plan on using this on my desk next to my computer. i dont need it big, i just need it to look good.

is it worth it?

>> No.2432065

These were every were and the go to mid range monitor back in the day

>> No.2432071

If the picture is OK (colour/geometry/convergence) yeah but talk them down to at least half that.

>> No.2432090

so how do i know if my monitor requires a sync stripper for SCART? im trying to buy some cables so i can plug SCART into my BNC inputs, but the cables are expensive, and im not sure if the extra 15 bucks for a sync stripper is even necessary.

>> No.2432152
File: 341 KB, 565x272, 55.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I fucked with Retroarch on the Wii all day trying figure out why a third of my Neo Geo games wouldn't work only to find out that the core won't load any ROMs above certain size.

>> No.2432181


That should not be surprising. Neo Geo games get huge as fuck. Your Wii can do more than you think eulator-wise but not a lot.

>> No.2432216


Couldn't have put the advantages of CRTs better myself.

>> No.2432247
File: 1.06 MB, 3280x2460, 101_8563.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

If you're using a VGA monitor, you won't be able to use straight RGB SCART anyway.

If you mean PVMs and the like, it depends on the model in question, but most of them made from the mid-90's on should be fine with cvid as sync.

>view angle? fucking anywhere nigga

>> No.2432320
File: 12 KB, 640x308, lm1881.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

AFAIK the only ways to know for certain are if the manual specifies that you need a pure sync signal or if you have the cable, you try it, and it doesn't work.

You can make one yourself for under $10, and under $5 if you have any of the parts already.

Here's an IC that's really simple and costs $5.

I'll even draw you a quick schematic.

You'll need two female RCA jacks, and one of these, or something like it: http://www.amazon.com/Solderable-Copper-Small-Perf-Board/dp/B003DVCS0S

Note that if your RCA jacks can mount without a PCB and you have a way to protect the IC itself, you don't even need a perfboard.

You also need two 0.1uf capacitors and one 680 kilo-ohm resistor (blue-gray-yellow). If you have other values, string them together until they add to 680 kilo-ohms.

(you also need an AC adapter with between 5 and 12 volts DC output. If you just put the chip inside your SNES, you can get 5 volts directly from its voltage regulator.)

You also need one LM1881 IC.

Then build this circuit. this is basically taken straight from the datasheet but I tried to make it a tiny bit easier to understand if you've not used electronics before.

If you don't want to solder, get a solderless 'breadboard' for this.

>> No.2432337
File: 3.54 MB, 4608x3456, smash-20l5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

did he say VGA monitor? I don't think he did.

>> No.2432349

Check around online to see how to enter the service menu. I think you are looking for the horizontal position, or the horizontal hold. if you don't have position but do have hold, if you make the screen scramble, go back (meaning start moving the slider the other way) until it stabilizes. If you cant do it from outside, open the TV and look for a trimmer labeled either 'H. Pos." or "h. hold" or something like that.

My old Apple IIe composite monitor has the dials right on the back, easily accessible. It's really great.

>> No.2432356

P.S.: Usually, not always, but usually, Magnavoxes weren't the best. Especially after Philips bought them.

>> No.2432387
File: 3.08 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_1945.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How I got around buying SCART cables and shit

>> No.2432396
File: 399 KB, 500x448, belmont - its my job.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i havent tinkered with electronics in about 3 years. as much as i would enjoy getting back into it again, i don't have any parts where i live now, and i probably won't be getting them until i move out after college in a few years. it'd probably be cheaper to just shell out the 15 bucks for a female cable with the circuit already built in it. between working a full-time summer job, playing community college catch up, and pursuing other ambitions, time is just too hard to get a hold of, it's not worth it. thanks though.

i did a little bit more reading on it. and from what i understand, some cables output composite SYNC (which is the raw signal) and other cables output composite VIDEO (which has other shit, i guess?). and some monitors have problems understanding the composite video signal, so they block it off. but since that signal has the v-sync signal in it, it fucks up your picture. all the sync stripper does is take the v-sync signal from the composite video signal, separate it, and block off the rest of it. that way the monitor is getting the v-sync that it does understand, and not the composite video that it doesn't.

so if i have it right, i wouldn't need a sync stripper provided all of the scart cables that i use provide pure composite sync, correct?

and let me say, these cables are killing me, man. im trying to get a female scart to bnc cable and a snes scart cable, and it's running me 50 bucks from retrogamingcables.uk. that's like half the price of the crt that i just bought. are scart cables supposed to be this expensive? i tried looking around ebay and amazon, but they would've ran be 60 bucks including shipping.

>> No.2432428


Composite video is the video signal and sync signals all wrapped together. It's the ubiquitous yellow jack.

Some TV's let you use the composite video signal instead of a proper sync signal. My PVM-20L5, for example, lets you do this.

PAL nintendo consoles do not have a separate composite SYNC line. Composite sync is composite video without the video. A black screen sent over composite looks similar to composite sync. for PAL regions the SCART cables expect sync to come over the composite video pin of the SCART cable. Some monitors and such are not made to handle this though.

Not sure how much of a problem it is in NTSC land, however.

However, some are less lenient and require the sync signal without anything else.

>> No.2432493

i have the PVM-1354Q. i looked through the manual, and under inputs/outputs i see: EXT SYNC in BNC Connector: Composite SYNC. which is the "pure" signal, also known as composite sync and csync. since it doesn't say anything about composite video, im assuming that it can't handle the information being pushed with the video signal.

and it probably will be a problem over here in NTSC land, since the PAL gamecube is the only one that can naturally output SCART without being cracked open. i guess i'll have to buy the sync stripper.

where do you guys buy your RGB cables, i feel like i can get them cheaper somewhere else. 60 bucks for 2 cables is insane.

>> No.2432514

I only mentioned it because it was brought up earlier in that specific reply chain.

>since it doesn't say anything about composite video, im assuming that it can't handle the information being pushed with the video signal.
It supports Component and RGsB, it'll take composite video as sync just fine.

>feel like i can get them cheaper somewhere else.
You can get them from China from next to nothing, but they'll be complete and utter shit.

Retrogamingcables has SCART cables for various systems for <20, assuming you ignore the absolutely insane Packapunch stuff.

>> No.2432527

you wont hurt it by trying composite video for sync.

>> No.2432530

>I only mentioned it because it was brought up earlier in that specific reply chain.

both my PVM-20L5 and Panasonic BT-H1390TN support composite video as sync. Most do. If it's a broadcast monitor, assume it does until informed otherwise.

>> No.2432542

>supports Component and RGsB, it'll take composite video as sync just fine.

so it can do both? is that because it can support RGsB? RGsB carries the VSYNC on the green cable, correct? and that's what allows it to work with both?

and it sounds like retrogamingcables is a decent place then. i saw retroRGB plugging it, and it made me a bit skeptical. usually sites that are plugged charge you more, especially if they have a pretty name like "retro gaming xxx." i guess i'll get the cables from them then.

it's better tech that's less commercialized than composite, i figured it would cost more, but i guess i wasn't expecting it to be this pricey. im sure it'll be worth it when i finally get this hooked up though. the pictures look insane.

>> No.2432558

guessing its because it can handle ypbpr, where the 'Y' (usually a green jack) is rather similar to a black and white composite signal.

>> No.2432563

also, I agree about retroRGB. It's "buy this, buy that, don't LEARN anything or something crazy like that".
Of course they don't have info on doing >>2425914 there, because that way you'd be doing it yourself. I just don't trust the knowledge of the guy who runs that site. With all his crap about scalers and shit, I just don't trust him. Also he claims that the SNES mini's RGB is somehow superior to the 1CHIP's, even though they use the exact same parts.

>> No.2432575
File: 961 KB, 3280x2460, 101_1682.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I wouldn't say that it's because it can take those signals, just that if it has the circuitry to deal with those signals, a bit of video information mixed in with the sync isn't going to be much trouble to deal with.

I believe he only just recently removed that grossly biased comparison of ALttP showing off different signal types.

>> No.2432602

well thanks guys, I appreciate the advice

I'll just get the standard female scart/bnc cable from retrogamingcables then, since the only cheaper cables I can find are from China, and fuck that. if I wanted to wait around for 2 weeks to be disappointed, I could just check my paycheck.

Since retroRGB is a bit sketchy, what other places do you go for information such as this? I had a lot of trouble finding it. I'm guessing because this getting more and more expensive, hard-core, and technical. I might not have a bench, tools, and time, but I wouldn't mind knowing more about video signals, and how to extend the life of my hardware. it can save lots of time and money.

>> No.2432614
File: 57 KB, 800x600, monitorsonykx14cp1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Posted in another thread but is the Sony kx-14cp1 any good?

>> No.2432631

Yeah, price is a little high. Some guy in Tasmania just sold a few in superb condition for A$25ea. He knew what he had, he just didn't want to rip anyone off.

>> No.2432642

Yup, it's nice. And it looks amazing. If the screen is in good condition, go for it up to about $50.

>> No.2432646

a couple guys posted theirs in the last thread, so I'd guess so

>> No.2432650
File: 1.11 MB, 3280x2460, 101_9176.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I don't know if I'd call it sketchy as much as heavily opinionated. There's useful information on there, but an occasional cross check wouldn't hurt.
gamesx.com has quite a nice amount of information for video signals, modding, av pinouts and a good bit more.
shmups, sega-16, and assemblergames have a lot of different information but it's buried and spread out across countless threads.

The photos I've seen of it are wonderful.

>> No.2432745

I still don't see how people DON'T see the allure of using original hardware on the displays they were intended for. I can see why emulation people wouldn't use CRTs, but that's part of their whole ethos, but people who actually use real hardware but don't use period displays really I just don't get it.

>> No.2432805

Late reply, but 240p suite.

Can TV repair shops, assuming they even work with CRTs anymore, calibrate a PVM? It's getting to the point where I can't even enjoy myself with this monitor anymore. Literally every time I try playing a game on it I spend more time miserably failing to calibrate geometry settings than I do playing it. It's fucking hell, I swear. I love this monitor but at the same time I fucking hate it. I never got this kind of warping on my old CRT.

>> No.2432817

Any tips for removing cigarette smell from used CRT?

>> No.2432982

> I can see why emulation people wouldn't use CRTs, but that's part of their whole ethos

I use a raspberry pi emulator setup on a crt

>> No.2433107

also auschoice in brisbane has 14m4as for sale at about 100 bucks a pop. Offer 70-80 or something and see if they accept because it's a way better quality/newer monitor than the one you mentioned.

>> No.2433110

yeah the wii's neo geo emulation is worse than the psp's (which is pretty crap and finicky too)

>> No.2433119

retroRGB is fine if a bit dated

also try: http://shmups.system11.org/

>> No.2433126

yeah I feel that dude just put the shitty bits out of view in the underscan. Or get a BVM

Moving the magnet thingies around on the back of the tube isn't dangerous right?

>> No.2434012

become a smoker so you become used to it

>> No.2434331

>I believe he only just recently removed that grossly biased comparison of ALttP showing off different signal types.
Nope, it's still up. http://retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html

>> No.2434345
File: 3.23 MB, 4608x3456, pkmn-pvm20l5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yeah, I used gamesx for the multi-out RGB pinout.

Rule 27 of Pokemon: Never use rest while fighting a gengar.

>> No.2434354

Geometry on a CRT is never perfect.
If geometry is the only problem, burn a crosshatch pattern to a DVD.

If you need to color calibrate, sure a TV shop might be able to. Otherwise, you can probably figure it out yourself. There are excellent guides on calibrating CRT TV's.

>> No.2434408
File: 2.59 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_1872.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yeah, being near the tube can be dangerous.
Discharge it first and it is far safer (though still not 100%)
>Since retroRGB is a bit sketchy, what other places do you go for information such as this? I had a lot of trouble finding it. I'm guessing because this getting more and more expensive, hard-core, and technical. I might not have a bench, tools, and time, but I wouldn't mind knowing more about video signals, and how to extend the life of my hardware. it can save lots of time and money.

Video is pretty complicated.
I learned the most by playing around under linux with custom signal timings on a CRT monitor.
For more information, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XFree86_Modeline
Also see this guide. http://en.tldp.org/HOWTO/XFree86-Video-Timings-HOWTO/introduction.html
There's a tool called CVT that will tell you the 'standard' frequencies for a given resolution and refresh rate, as well as a spreadsheet that tells you everything you'll ever need to know about CRT timings: http://www.fl-eng.com/_lib/doc/vesa.xls
Get a CRT monitor that has an OSD and such, as it is least likely to kill itself when fed an incorrect timing. Sony "Multiscan" monitors (mine's a CPD-100SF) are GREAT for testing with. I was able to figure out how to 'pad' an image (change the horizontal total without changing horizontal pixels) as well as getting 2560x1920 video out onto a 14 inch CRT by interlacing.

It was really fun, especially when I used my knowledge to hook my computer to a PVM. Note that some video cards are better for this, and I've found older intel chipsets to be versatile.

Know that a vertical sync is when you tell the tube to move the scanline beam from the far right of the tube back to the far left, and that vsync is a pulse when you tell the tube to move from the bottom of the screen back to the top. Pixel clock is how often pixels are sent per scanline.

>> No.2434667
File: 1.34 MB, 3280x2460, 101_5126.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

That's not the offending comparison. The one I'm taking about compares composite, s-video, transcoded RGB, and RGB.

The problem is, where he could have used the PVM for the YPbPr example, he instead chose to use a consumer model, making it seem like there was a wide difference between the two in picture quality. I'm sure the straight RGB would look better on the PVM, but if you're trying to show the quality difference between signals, you need to keep the display constant.

I need a 20L5.

>> No.2434712

Hey /vr/, I got a Sony Trinitron / WEGA 27 inch for 30 dollars. Was that a good price?

I must say the improvement from my HDTV is real and I'd like to thank these threads for helping out. CRTs are awesome.

>> No.2434716


If it's in good shape, then yeah. Welcome to the club, brother.

>> No.2434723
File: 1.37 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2132.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

gonna just take pictures of video signals on my ancient oscilloscope.

This is what a composite signal looks like on an oscilloscope when you are on the Super Mario Kart title screen. Note that the TV is actually using RGB, the scope is just showing the equivalent composite signal. This contains the color in YUV space, as well as the black and white brightness signal, and the sync.
the sync is the solid green line where it dips way down.
The bit right after that is the color burst, where the color signal is stuffed.
The rest is, I believe, the luminance of the scanline in question. each of those little segments at the base of the stuff above is actually a scanline. each scanline is terminated by hsync, and you are seeing the hsync's in there too.

Next up is an annotated version of this picture, as I understand it. Note that I may be wrong, I have no professional experience in this. if you notice anything glaringly wrong, I know that as anons on 4chan you will be quick to call me a dumbass and you will then be helpful by telling me where I was wrong.

>> No.2434730

It's in excellent shape, hardly a scratch on it and the even gave me the remote. BATTERIES INCLUDED.

>> No.2434732
File: 3.61 MB, 4608x3456, porygon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I need a 20L5.
Haha, I think yours (whatever it is) looks fantastic, myself.

I was taking the opportunity to test myself for photosensitive epilepsy by playing that Pokemon episode that caused the seizures. :D
conclusion: I am not particularly photosensitive.

>> No.2434738
File: 1.17 MB, 260x197, welcomesquidward.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Just going to flaunt again. FREE 20L5 WOOOO

(but seriously, welcome to our club :D)

>> No.2434742

this ?

>> No.2434743


Cool. Take some pictures for us.

>> No.2434776

yeah, and this >>2425887 >>2434408

Oh, and >>2423930 , I think you have your brightness set too low or you've got your TV set to 7.5 IRE on a japanese imported console. "0 IRE" means a lower level black signal, so the picture will be brighter.

>> No.2434779

wait, actually, the RetroRGB page you linked does not have a 20L5 on it. It does have other PVM/BVM's though.

>> No.2434787

That's a PC CRT monitor emulating the DS version of Chrono Trigger. Of course the image looks darker than usual, as he's inserting black lines with little to compensate. He might also be using NTSC color range with a shader, not sure.

>> No.2434804 [SPOILER] 
File: 1.58 MB, 3280x2460, 1432865384201.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Well I suppose it is still up.

I went looking for it before, but couldn't remember what page it was on.


I like the look of mine, don't get me wrong. It's just that I would kill for that 480p support and higher line count. That latter bit I blame on fiddling around with the Megaview.

There's that and the fact that mine is starting to show its age. Streaking from bright areas and junk. Doesn't show up in normal photos but it's become quite obvious in the past few months. This is with the brightness and contrast cranked all the way up.

>> No.2434809

also, suggesting Loewe of Bang&Olufsen set is a pretty bad idea, as they come with deinterlace and doublescan gimmicks that are usually not switchable.

>> No.2434812
File: 429 KB, 1280x956, photo 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm not sure how to take as good pictures as you guys.

Also the game isn't really /vr/, but this has always been a vidya cozy area for me so I've got it on.

>> No.2434815
File: 550 KB, 1296x968, photo 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And here's a close up.

>> No.2434823


Try a 240p game.

>> No.2434834
File: 873 KB, 3280x2460, 101_4066.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

480i is significantly harder to get good photos of than 240p, especially without relying on flash.

>> No.2434841

what do you use for taking pics ? If smartphone look out for something like "screen". My galaxy S3 has a mode labelled as such and it makes surprisingly good pics.

Else, the usual applies, black room, white balance on fluorescent. 1/60s shutter speed.

>> No.2434861
File: 2.55 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2141.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Actually, i've been using 1/30 or 1/25 to avoid flickering, f/3.5 or f/4.0 aperture, and ISO 100 or 200 setting. Otherwise I get the fading phosphors from one frame to the next.

>> No.2434863
File: 558 KB, 1280x956, photo 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Okie dokie. I used Megaman 8.

Ah, I see.

I could find no such mode (iPhone 4, not even s). I did make sure the room was dark which is about all I can give ya.

Anyways, here's the general screen.

>> No.2434864
File: 481 KB, 1280x956, photo 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's a close up, all pixely. I caught Rockman blinking twice. Maybe he's disappointed in my photography.

>> No.2434865

You need ios 8 for any advanced camera settings, but as a 4s owner I cannot recommend buying a new iphone. Apple is not a company I want to support and since I actually do advanced things with my phone and jailbreak religiously, I do not like apples' "Thou Shalt Not Downgrade" policy, as well as their zeal against jailbreakers.

>> No.2434867


Looks a bit wobbly. Colors are nice though.

>> No.2434884
File: 232 KB, 1528x656, scope-annotate.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

alright, I made a mistake.

hsync is the big dip. No idea what the tiny ones are, but I suspect they are the video signal itself.

>> No.2434889

Dude, I hate Apple too. I'm right with you. I was able to get this phone last year for 99 cent so that's really the only reason I have it.

It is, not sure how I messed that up. But thank you, the colors are really insane on this thing, and I am using component.

>> No.2434967
File: 1.15 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4163.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My camera seems to float between 1/8 and 1/35 for the most part. f/2.8 and ISO 64 unless everything is coming out too dark, then I might raise it to 100.
I also abuse exposure bias like crazy; Even at ISO64, Chrono Trigger is way too bright and has to be stepped down .3 to .7 of a step.

>> No.2435056

my camera doesn't give me those options and I haven't looked into custom firmware on it yet :(

>> No.2435061
File: 1.15 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4156.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm using a point'n'shoot that put me back <$20 from ebay to replace a few months back.

It's a piece of shit, but it works alright for what I use it for.

It's going to be crazy if and when I get a new camera, comparing the new photos to the old.

>> No.2435064
File: 3.81 MB, 4608x3456, mother-PVM20L5-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

forgot pic. BTW I'm the one who posted his settings earlier here >>2434861
(wow, to get this to 4MB I had to use a jpeg 0.85 ratio...)

>> No.2435072

point-n-shoot gift from parents after my (better) sony cybershot point-n-shoot was stolen from the back of my car while driving through Kansas. New one is a Canon SX160 IS.
It's not bad at all, but my older camera was a bit better.

Funny how I never got stuff stolen in Chicago, only in middle-of-nowhere, Kansas. So much for "good country folk".

>> No.2435078

I think I'm going to adopt a name since I'm posting so much, but anyway, I'm the 20L5 guy. Your Chrono Trigger pics look remarkably similar to my Chrono Trigger pics :\

>> No.2435082
File: 709 KB, 4608x3456, CT Luma.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

here, have a luminance signal from Chrono Trigger, pulled from the S-video Y pin.

>> No.2435112
File: 1.38 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Never trust country folk. Doubly so if they're mountain country folk

If it makes you feel any better, your full screen photos look quite nicer than any that I managed to get.

I forgot how horrific these load times were.

>> No.2435119
File: 3.87 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20150528_233726[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

dat pixel doubling

>> No.2435125
File: 1.55 MB, 3456x4608, pvm5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Not had QUITE that much trouble with mountain country folk, actually. Then again, I was born there and lived there for a few years (southwest colorado, San Juan mountains, actually kind of close to IRL South Park), so I make decisions accordingly.

>> No.2435127

That's Secret of Evermore, right?

I bought that game way back and never really got into it. Should I give it another go?
(I think Chrono Trigger spoiled me a bit)
Also, WOW that's some bad pixel doubling.

>> No.2435131
File: 3.48 MB, 4608x3456, panasonic-ff-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Panasonic BT-H1390YN broadcast monitor. There's a JVC monitor I can't think of right now that is EXACTLY the same except branding. It's a pretty nice 14 inch monitor, despite being a shadow mask monitor.

>> No.2435132

Wrong Secret game, bra.

And yeah, it's not the prettiest thing. But of course it was most likely a cheap way to make the boss appear big and menacing without adding extra detail.

>> No.2435136

P.S. The JVC identical monitor is the BM-H1310SU.
I even followed the JVC service manual to get into the service menu and center my image (after this was taken).

>> No.2435140

I am reminded of a CERTAIN OTHER GAME.

Also, can't seem to find any of the 'mana' games anywhere. It's sad. :(

I only look locally and casually, really. I keep popping in, looking around, hoping to find earthbound, but of course I manage to get a free 20L5 before I can get a fucking copy of earthbound.

>> No.2435141
File: 1.28 MB, 3280x2460, 102_0190.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Appalachian hill folk are not to be trusted.

>despite being a shadow mask monitor
Absolutely nothing wrong with shadow masks.

>> No.2435149
File: 3.34 MB, 3762x3076, certain other game.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Alright, forgot to post that CERTAIN OTHER GAME picture.
After using this and an apple IIe composite monitor, I'd agree. I said 'even though' mainly because some people assume shadow mask is inherently flawed because it "isn't an aperture grille".

>> No.2435154

another approximately identical monitor is JVC BM-H2000PN-K

That one has a service manual available here

>> No.2435160

which monitor is that?

on an unrelated note, still not liking this new captcha. Getting real tired of selecting images of steak. It makes me want to never eat stake again. Or cake. Or soup. God, I just want some garbled text...

>> No.2435186
File: 1.31 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1542.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Mitsubishi Megaview 37 Pro "XC-3730c".
Supports Composite, S-Video, and RGB; Will sync to anything between 15 and 85khz.

>> No.2435192
File: 3.99 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20150529_001900[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And since we're on the subject of Chrono Trigger...

>> No.2435197

dat fucking pos forced retconning....

>> No.2435202
File: 1.42 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2171.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I just had to replace my save battery, so I can't show a screenshot in that far...


anyway, I sometimes pop this game in just for the music :)

>> No.2435207

Given the DS version doesn't use a battery, you would never have gotten there anyway.

>> No.2435209

hey, take a chill pill man. He did nothing wrong.
Do I spot a donkey kong atari 2600 cartridge?

>> No.2435215

>looks a second time
...how is that on a CRT then?

>> No.2435225

that additional ending was just like "hey guise, CC is totally related to CT, like really ! like officially ! ...
plz stop hating CC ;_;"

>> No.2435231

Emulation, son.

>> No.2435242
File: 1.06 MB, 3280x2460, 102_0722.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yes, though I've never set my hands on an Atari, let alone played one. Found it while cleaning the basement a few years back.
Family of pack rats, what are you gonna do.

>> No.2435246
File: 3.80 MB, 4608x3456, famicom-ff3-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

...and a special video card?
Damn, people. If you can't deal with the SNES version for some reason, you need to DEAL WITH it not having scanlines... not spend hundreds of dollars...

Old pic, but going to sleep now and you all have had enough pics of my 20L5 for a long time.

>> No.2435250

I have my parents' old atari.

The games are a wee bit too primitive for me, but I keep it around anyway because the games can still be fun for a little bit.

Also I have swordquest fireworld, with comic, manual, cartridge, and box.

>> No.2435276
File: 1.19 MB, 3280x2460, 102_0749.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>...and a special video card?
Shaders and filters on a PC CRT with a normal video card.

Even if it wasn't, the ArcadeVGA only simplifies things; You can do low-res emulation with most graphics cards if you feel like doing the leg work.

A simple scanline overlay can go a long way though.

I wouldn't mind getting one just to fiddle around with, but it's not on my "must buy list" by any means.
I do have a Colecovision and Intellivision that I got from a relative, but my attempts at getting them going were thwarted by not having an RCA to F-Connector adapter.

>> No.2435280

Radioshack sold 'em.

A place in my town bought out radioshack stock and started a new store, they sell 'em too. In fact, I have one right behind me.

>> No.2435298
File: 968 KB, 3280x2460, 102_0988.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I know where I can get one, it's just not a high priority at the moment.
If only I could use one of the many RCA-BNC connectors I have laying around.

>> No.2435306

If I could, I'd trade an RCA to F connector for an RCA to BNC... I can never have enough (technically I need five more to reach how many I need).

>> No.2435338

You wot? There's no special video card. It's purely a few shaders on a PC CRT monitor I got for a grand total of $5.

>> No.2435427

Do you guys take requests?
Could you take a picture of a crt displaying n64 games? I'm looking for mario 64, ocarina of time, Kirby 64: The Crystal Shards and Harvest moon 64.

>> No.2435445

What kind of scenes do you want? I can do Mario and OoT.

>> No.2435465
File: 233 KB, 465x336, 1416339227827.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I would want pictures which give an accurate representation of what you think it looks like to sit in front of one and play. I'm thinking real hard about whether I should get one, as they are quite expensive over here, and I thought that this would be a good way to make my mind up. Thanks a lot.

>> No.2435538

Well, can't do it now. N64 seems to have decided to cease functioning.

>> No.2435734
File: 1.62 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4321.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>Do you guys take requests?

Camera is shitting the bed though; Won't focus unless it's zoomed in two steps, but zooming in past three steps is making it shut off. I don't get this stupid thing.

>> No.2435736
File: 1.74 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4329.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435738
File: 1.55 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4265.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435741
File: 483 KB, 3280x2460, 102_4269.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435743
File: 1.87 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4273.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435746
File: 1.30 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4293.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435750
File: 1.39 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4169.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435752
File: 1.38 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4175.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435757
File: 1.74 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4238.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.2435759
File: 955 KB, 3280x2460, 102_4235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm not really sure what happened here, but I've got several more like it. A lot of the SM64 shots came out like shit.

>> No.2436208

Thanks mate, I appreciate it.

>> No.2436621

I'm thinking of moving my PS3 to the room with my CRT when I play Playstation Classics/PS2 games. Does it properly support 4:3? I remember when I tried hooking up my Wii U to that CRT it just would not work correctly. I'd be using component cables by the way.

>> No.2436747
File: 895 KB, 3280x2460, 102_4403.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

PS3 will give you the option of 16:9 or 4:3 for 480i or 480p when changing your display settings. Actual PS1 games play in 4:3, but whether a given game will display in 4:3 is up to it. Most PS1 and PS2 games should be totally fine in that regard. Videos obviously depend on their own aspect ratio.

>Wii U
Yeah, it only supporting 16:9 outside of vWii is annoying.

>> No.2436758

It should be noted that the PS3 does not support 240p and all games will be scaled to 480i when played on a CRT, and rather poorly at that. When I first got my PS3, years before I knew what the hell 240p and 480i were, I noticed something was wrong with the way games looked and that everything looked like it was flickering when it wouldn't on my PS1 or PS2.

>> No.2436874


The only one I have right now is Symphony of the Night. Do y'all know if that displays correctly? I have it digitally so I wouldn't be playing off the disk if that matters at all.

>> No.2436886
File: 458 KB, 2248x1005, Mega Man Comparison.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It will display just fine, just not nearly as sharp as the original image displayed from a PS1 or PS2. It's kind of impossible to capture the difference in a photo (It also doesn't help that this picture is really old and before I knew exactly what I was doing), but as I said, you may notice some flickering where there previously was none. Or, hell, you might not even notice it at all. It bugs my eyes out, though.

>> No.2436935

So how does a Murrifat into RGB without SCART? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it exists here, as I've never seen it.

Also, by RGB do you guys mean either SCART or component depending on context?

>> No.2437038

pvm, modding or scart to component.
RGB usually refers to 15khz RGB+sync (either composite vid or pure sync)
Component can be refered as YUV or YPbPr; should not use RGB (even if the connectors are that colors) to avoid confusion

>> No.2437385
File: 870 KB, 3280x2460, 102_0197.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

New Thread:


>> No.2438581

I ordered an s-video cable for my Saturn on Amazon...I deliberately ordered one where the images showed cables without the composite cable attached. I just got it and it's a retro-bit cable with the composite attached.

So, my question is...Are these just as good picture-wise or are they lower in quality? I swear I read somewhere that the s-video cables with the composite cable attached aren't as good. Should I complain and return it since it's not what's shown in the images?

Name (leave empty)
Comment (leave empty)
Password [?]Password used for file deletion.