Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki

[Anonymous No.2387737]

Discuss any mods or repairs you're working on here!

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2387802]

>>2387737
>forum doesn't accept ymail addresses for registration
Shit

That said, I'm thinking about buying and installing a MegaAmp in one of my Genesis consoles, and was wondering if taking some photos of the process might be a good addition to the wiki.

[Anonymous No.2387872]

>>2387802
Sorry about that, I'll look into the forum registration issue.

Anything like that would be helpful for the wiki. What is a MegaAmp anyway?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2387884]

>>2387872
Replacement audio circuit for the Genesis/Mega Drive. Meant to deal with the terrible sound of the VA7 Model 1, fullboard Model 2s. I believe you can use it to restore stereo audio to a Model 3 as well, but I'm not sure.
http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?26568-Introducing-the-Mega-Amp-The-universal-Genesis-audio-circuit

I'd be buying a predone board and installing it in either a Model 1 or Model 2.

[Anonymous No.2387926]

>>2387884
Ah, that's neat. The VA7 did have pretty shit audio, and unfortunately it's the only version of the model 1 I've ever found in the wild.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2387929]

>>2387926
Yeah, when Genesis consoles were cheap and plentiful in places I go to often, I wasn't aware of that type of shit. Now that I do, they're nowhere to be found.

[Anonymous No.2387938]

>>2387929
The different versions of model 1 motherboards and the commonality of the VA7 really became an issue when I wanted to overclock a Genesis. Buying one online was not an option since hardly anyone selling a Genesis is going to know what version mobo they have or even what that means. I eventually discovered that a friend's brother had a Genesis and I asked if I could check the version, and lo and behold I found a VA4. I traded him a model 2 for it.

[Anonymous No.2387946]

I've got a Mega Drive cartridge that doesn't work. Tried cleaning it but still nothing.

Luckily it's Pit Fighter which is a terrible game.

[Anonymous No.2387953]

I've got a question for future reference: Is there a finite amount of times a console can be repaired?

It may or may not be a dumb question but I thought it couldn't hurt to ask

[Anonymous No.2388008]

I recently got a copy of Killer Instinct Gold for super cheap, and it's in good condition... except some minor rust on the outer eight pins (obviously the ones that are part of the heat shield, not the brass pins).
What's more, I can't just take the cartridge apart and do things the old fashioned way because some asshole put glue over the screws.

Anyone have any ideas for how to remove this rust? Do I have a better shot at removing the glue and taking it apart, or is there some kind of chemical I can safely dip the cart into without damaging the game?

[Anonymous No.2388115]

>>2387953

Not really, though it can become less and less practical depending on what sort of systemic wear accompanies your repairs.

[Anonymous No.2388192]

Every time I want to play a game on my NES, I need to first turn on the NES, getting a solid color screen (usually orange), then press reset for the game to run (without having to move the cartridge at all)

They never work the first time I turn it on, only after a reset. Needless to say, this doesn't happens on other NES with the same cartridges.

What could be causing this?

[Anonymous No.2388205]

>>2388192
reset button gets stuck perhaps?

[Anonymous No.2388215]

Are there any ref sheets on what the NES error colours mean?

[Anonymous No.2388232]

>>2388215
The colors don't really have any meaning as far as I'm aware, they're pretty much random. Various pictures usually have a common problem associated with them though.

Any color other than black usually means the cartridge isn't seated properly for some reason.

Garbled graphics is usually a VRAM problem.

Rolling bars with an otherwise normal picture is usually a bad power adapter, the adapter likely can't output enough current.

If you can't get an actual picture or you get white streaks or other things floating/flashing around in it then the power circuit is likely screwed up. Probably the power cap specifically. In the NES it could also be the bridge rectifier.

[Anonymous No.2388312]

OK, kind of a specific question, but here goes.

From what I gather, if I have a PAL game and want to run it on my NTSC system, all I need to do is use an NTSC CIC with the PAL program and it should runon said NTSC system. However, I have heard that some games are programmed with additional checks that might prevent this method from working or something? Does anyone know of a list of such games?

Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2389406]

>>2388008
Sounds like it was a rental game and they didn't want kids to swap the board with madden and return it.
You should be able to remove the glue with a heated small flat head screwdriver or something like that.

[Anonymous No.2389570]

I'm having a very similar issue to >>2388192 but in my case it happens only with my burgertime game, I always get a solid color screen, then it will work after pressing reset. But it won't work the first time I press power.

This only happens with that specific cart.

[Anonymous No.2389619]

>AV famicom audio fix
>manage to fix that video noise

FINAFUCKALLY

[Anonymous No.2390110]

I have two SNES's with the same issue; The Power Led doesn't turn on, the console itself works fine, I can play game and all but the led doesn't turn on.

I tried changing the controller thingie but I found that the replacement led wasn't turning on either, then I tried the supposely busted led on another snes and surprise surprise, it was working perfectly.

So it seems like the issue here is my snes, is there some kind of fuse, cap or something that could cause the led, only the led, to not turn on?

[Anonymous No.2390129]

>>2390110
Could be the ribbon cable or the connector on the main board is not making a good connection.

[Anonymous No.2390146]

>>2390129
Already tried with other ribbons with the same results, I think the main board is the issue as you say, gonna check a little further

[Anonymous No.2390484]

Does anyone here have experience making Arcade Sticks?

I'm interested in making one for PC that plugs into USB.

Any recommended parts or resources on getting started?

[Anonymous No.2390486]

>>2390484
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/introduction.html

[Anonymous No.2390503]

>>2390484
Honestly, you're better off just buying a fight stick and modding it. The last generation made an absolute fuckton of pretty cheap ones.

The thought process goes like this:
>Do I have enough tools and materials already to build a case for under 50 bucks?
>If yes, do I have any experience in routing all this shit out?
>If yes, is the time required worth less to me than 50 bucks minus the material cost?

If you answered no at any step, just buy a stick and gut it. I've got a brawlstick that cost me next to nothing, took a few minutes to remove the cheap chink stuff and put in an LS-32. You really can't beat that.

I have built my own controllers, I've got IIDX and SDVX controllers. They look like crap because I just aimed for a functional level, but I saved a lot of money over the ones you can buy because they're all overpriced for a niche market. Arcade sticks aren't that niche now with FGC autists everywhere, you can pick them up second hand pretty easy.

[Anonymous No.2391924]

>>2390484
Buy a USB controller preferably wired and strip it down to the PCB and solder wires from each pad to a button. Not a terribly difficult process, probably the most difficult work will be finding a suitable container to house the internals and the buttons and joystick and drilling the holes.

[Anonymous No.2392035]

>>2391924
This is a pretty stupid idea now that you can get Zero Delay shit off eBay for 10 bucks, complete with quick disconnects.

The age of stripping down cheap USB controllers is long gone. I'd only recommend that if you needed something with analog sticks or something.

[Anonymous No.2392041]

>>2392035
>what is fun

[Anonymous No.2392350]

My snes is having weird graphical issues, some games will play like webm related, some others won't have any video at all.

Can this be fixed, or the Video Chip is fucked?

[Anonymous No.2392771]

>>2392350
get a test cart (or a flash cart with the rom) and run a hardware test

[Anonymous No.2392998]

Alright, I got a unique problem on my hands. I picked up a knackered Neo Geo CD (just missing the CD lid) months back. I managed to get a hold of an external power supply (as I didn't want to import the specific power brick for a potentially dead system) and wired it up to the NGCD (12 + 5 volts @ 2 amps each). It fired up, but the disc spindle will not spin. At all. The laser fires up fine and even moves up and down the track, but the spindle will not spin at all. I confirmed it wasn't the motor by just touching a 9 volt battery to the contacts on the disc drive board. The only thing I could think of would either be the ribbon cable, or the CD controller board. Can anyone advise on this?

[Anonymous No.2393029]

alright, so here's my issue.

>playing FF7 on my PS1, model SCPH-7501
>disc 1 is a little fucked, won't load world map sometimes, but whatever.
>get to disc 2, which is in flawless condition (discs 2 and 3 are untouched, so whoever owned this before me was likely a scrub)
>get to the part where you have to take bugenhagen to the forgotten city
>FMV where the waterfall comes down skips like hell, then outright freezes
>doesnotcompute.jpg, this is a later model which was SUPPOSED to have that issue fixed
>try it a few more times, same shit
>well fuck
>dig out my SCPH-1001 model, get to the same part
>FMV plays perfectly
>ah well. guess the lasers just going, I'll just play it on the 1001 for now.

AND here's where life decides to screw me

>get a little further in the story
>beat Diamond Weapon
>after you do this, three FMVs are supposed to play, one of him turning around, another of him walking away, and a third shot of the sister ray charging up and firing
>on BOTH systems, the first two FMVs play fine, but the sister ray cutscene stutters like a parkinson's patient. it's much more prevalent on the 7501 (the 1001 stutters really badly toward the end of the FMV), but both systems freeze at the very end of the cutscene.

I'm not sure what to point the finger at here. both systems don't seem to have any problems playing other games. the only thing I've noticed so far is that both systems tend to linger at the startup screens (both the diamond AND the PS logo) for longer than they should. other than that, load times seem fine for most games

could both lasers just be varying degrees of fucked? I find that a bit unlikely. I also don't think the disc is damaged. it's in pristine condition.

[Anonymous No.2393123]

Does the Sega CD 2 work with a Model 1 adapter?

[Anonymous No.2393168]

>>2393029
See the disc through a light to see if there's any dot where light comes through, there may be some scratches on the data side that you cannot perceive easily.

On the other hand, you can re-calibrate the lens of both psx and see if they can get past that part.

[Anonymous No.2393224]

>>2393029
I''m actually having a similar problem with FF8. I've been through two copies now, can't get past the opening FMV (they freeze in different parts).

Neither of the discs were in bad shapre and the second one I tried having resurfaced, no luck. Tried it out on my PS2 and while it gets a second or so further, still locks up. Haven't had any issues playing other games on my PS1 (Parasite Eve, Dino Crisis I recently played through again with no issues)

At least one of them freezes right at the part where Squall gets his face cut open, so there's that.

[Anonymous No.2393993]

>>2393168
Well, I adjusted the pots on the 7501. The cutscene still stuttered, but I actually got past it this time. What's odd is the cut scene immediately after it played fine. I'm so confused right now.

PSIO fucking when?

[Anonymous No.2394001]

Have a really early Dell Celeron box from the late-ish 90's, doesn't power on at all, so I assume its the PSU, but dell used a proprietary PSU wiring for some of their PSU's so I don't know what the pin out for the power connector actually is, so i cant test the psu with a multimeter, does anyone know where I could find this?

Might be more suited for /g/ but a. /g/ is full of retards these days and b. it's still /vr/

[Anonymous No.2394064]

>>2393993
well, I also had troubles with disc 2 on my fucking ps3 and it was on mint condition, I think that disc is just horribly made.

[Anonymous No.2394067]

>>2393224
Have you tried cleaning out your PS2? I had similar problems with Dragon Warrior VII (would not load/lock up at certain parts, other games loaded fine). Turns out my unit was really dusty, opening it up and cleaning it fixed it right up

[Anonymous No.2394072]

>>2393123
nope. sega cd 2 uses genesis 2 adapter, cd1 uses genesis 1 adapter. dont flip flop em unless you wanna fry your unit

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2394296]

Would an NES or Model 1 Genesis RF switch work for an Intellivision or Colecovision?
I've had both sitting around in a box completely untouched for a year or two and was trying to see if they worked.
I managed to get something to show up from the Colecovision for a moment or two before the picture got completely covered in static.
Intellivision at least shows something you can actually recognize, but is still completely covered in heavy static.

[Anonymous No.2394372]

>>2394296
They are auto switching so the older systems don't work with them very well.
You need some of pic related.
You can buy them online and it eliminates the switch box and the static caused by them.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2394415]

>>2394372
That makes sense, thanks.

[Anonymous No.2396282]

>>2387872
>>2387884
>>2387926
>>2387929
>>2387938
I just wanted to say that the MegaAmp can also be used to give you the raw unfiltered audio of the Genesis or the System C-2 arcade board. You can also have it set up so you can switch between the different filter settings.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2396287]

>>2396282
The board I'm getting has switches for going between filtered and unfiltered.
If I end up modding my VA7 as planned, I'm wondering if there's a way I could modify the volume slider to operate the switches since it'll no long work for its original purpose.

[Anonymous No.2396306]

I'm just having an issue here that's probably simple.

I just got a pretty big rca gem star entertainment series tv and am trying to get my snes to work on the cable/antenna port(rf in). I got my playstation working fine on the A/V port, just had to use input on the remote and make sure video settings were correct. But for the life of me I can't figure out what's going on with the rf input for the SNES. It's on, has a game in, is on the air channels (tried both 3 & 4), yet no dice.
Any thoughts?

[Anonymous No.2396426]

>>2396306
Found a solution, I just used a converter box. Which I don't understand why since it was just another rf cable being used in addition to mine but whatever. It works and I'm happy.

[Anonymous No.2396438]

>>2396306
Is there some reason you don't have your SNES hooked up via composite?

[Anonymous No.2396443]

>>2394001
http://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=339053

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-10.html

[Anonymous No.2397401]

My problem is I have a neo geo MV 4F board and recently it started making displaying that on the first image accompanied by a clicking sound

I decided to try to check the battery but this is my first time having to inspect batteries so im not sure if i'm missing anything or not

then there was a chip that fell out after i took the board after the cabinet, and i'm wondering what i should do about it

and fourth on the underside of the battery there are these strips of some plastic that run under the battery would remving them be a good idea to inspect the battery?

[Anonymous No.2397536]

>>2397401
that chip is reversed, judging by the notch and the printed mark on the pcb.

[Anonymous No.2397613]

>>2394072
But it doesn't fit, tho...

[Anonymous No.2397625]

>>2397401
alright I think I got the chip in their correctly but now when I turn it onIi just get a black screen with no audio

[Anonymous No.2397628]

>>2397625
mean't for >>2397536

[Anonymous No.2397660]

The PS2 Dpad sucks.

Any idea how to make it not suck?

Specifically,holding diagonals is a serious thumb workout and it makes Mega Man Legends a pain to control.

I think it's because the Dpad buttons are so far apart so it's still like pressing individual buttons at a time.

[Anonymous No.2397918]

>>2397660
Is your thumb a needle?

You can try gluing or taping some kind of ring onto the d pad.

[Anonymous No.2397962]

>>2397660
Problem solved.

[Anonymous No.2397972]

I'd like to grab a Pi, transform it into an emulator box, and use it on my old CRT. I live in Europe, so I want to use SCART RGB. The TV can do 60Hz. The Pi only has a composite analog output, but seriously fuck that.

Does anyone have any experience with HDMI to SCART downscalers?

[Anonymous No.2398034]

This isn't about repairs, but what would you guys suggest I do for getting an AC Adapter/AV Cable for my Genesis 1? A friend gave it to me without the hookups, and I got a shitty 3rd party AC Adapter that was supposed to work with it and my NES, but it only works with the NES, so I'm powerless. It's hard finding JUST the hookups for a decent price, since a lot of yard sales and flea markets have entire consoles for the price most places would charge for AC + AV cables.

I love you, /vr/.

[Anonymous No.2398114]

>>2398034
any AC adapter will work, so long as it's rated for 9 volts @ 1.2 amps (or 1200 milliamps). As for A/V cables, there's plenty of people who sell such cables online (Neo Geo&CD/Genesis1/Master System all use the same multi AV out). You may also want to put in composite/s-video out on the back of the machine instead, though that requires cutting holes in plastic and soldering.

[Anonymous No.2398163]

>>2397660
After some experimentation I've found something that actually works well.

I had to sacrifice the front shell of one of my broken PS2 controllers and cut out the X-shaped area in the middle of the Dpad. I then took a proper plus-shaped Dpad from a broken third party controller and it fit perfectly. It works great now.

[Anonymous No.2398176]

I need to replace this rubber thing on my SNES controller, any recommendations on a good, durable, authentic replacement part?

[Anonymous No.2398180]

>>2397972

Doesn't the Pi output RGB on one of the flat flex connectors?

[Anonymous No.2398519]

>>2394072
That's wrong
>>2397613
>But it doesn't fit, tho...
That's because he's wrong.

The model 1 adapter works on master system, genesis model 1 and both cd models.
The tip is center negative.

Model 2 adapter works on the model two, 32x, game gear and nomad.
Tip is center positive.

You should at least double check your answer before spewing false information. faggot

[Anonymous No.2398520]

>>2398034
CENTER NEGATIVE CENTER NEGATIVE CENTER NEGATIVE CENTER NEGATIVE CENTER NEGATIVE

[Anonymous No.2398559]

>>2398176
>I don't know enough about these rubber things to know where to get them or what they're called but I know I need to replace it.
Wish I could help you man.

[Anonymous No.2398582]

>>2398176
they are called rubber pads, you can replace it with same/similar one from other controller or buy replacement one from ebay. From my experience replacements tends to be more stiff/hard to press unlike originals(which tends to be more soft/loose feeling), but they still are better than non/barely-working one.

[Anonymous No.2400221]

I plan to do the mega amp mod for my Va7 and I was wondering about the voltage of the capacitors, how much is ideal? Is 50v ok or will it occupy too much space on the stripboard?

I don't want to make an account on sega 16 just to ask this, maybe someone here have done this mod before.

[Anonymous No.2400297]

>>2400221
50v is a bit overkill, especially for 220µF. 10 or 16 should do it.

[Anonymous No.2400526]

>>2400221
>>2400297
but it doesn't affect anything.

you can always go higher with voltage for caps, the only limitation is, as you said, concern about space.

the elec.caps i have used in the past were similar in size for 50v and 16v in smaller caps (that you'd use in the mod)

[Anonymous No.2400528]

>>2400526
>in smaller caps (that you'd use in the mod)
smaller in terms of capacitance, not physical size.

[Anonymous No.2400792]

>>2400297
>>2400526
Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2400915]

>>2398034
I'm >>2398114
>>2398520
>>2398519
THESE SO HARD, I FORGOT ABOUT THE POLARITY ON THE PLUG

[Anonymous No.2400986]

>>2398519
Okay so I tried the genesis adapter, and the laser won't come on.

[Anonymous No.2401218]

How do I undo the yellowing on my Saturn?

[Anonymous No.2401289]

>>2401218
Retrobrite

[Anonymous No.2401329]

>>2401218

Tell him to put it down.

[Anonymous No.2401368]

>>2401218
I would kill to have that Saturn for this price.

[Anonymous No.2402128]

Hey, is there any way to get output from a PAL TV with an RF Famicom?

I don't care if it's black and white or all fucked up because of NTSC, I just want to test the system. Every post I've read has been very vague, it'd be nice to have an idea of what channel number it'd display on at least.

[Anonymous No.2402143]

>>2402128
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Television_channel_frequencies

[Anonymous No.2402149]

>>2402128
you're better of modding the system to composite, even if its for testing.

[Anonymous No.2402157]

>>2402149
That was the original plan, I'm just waiting for the bits to get here.

Although, it's looking rather bad for this famicom. I pulled the RF shield off the power board, and one of the little green spring things is beyond fucked up.

Looks like I might need to replace the whole thing, which isn't that bad given I don't need any of this stuff aside from the power connector anyway.

[Anonymous No.2402159]

>>2402157
that's normal actually, it's just glued to prevent coil whine.

[Anonymous No.2402246]

alright, fuck sony.

>>2393029
>>2393993

this guy here. the laser in the 7501 is definitely fucked. it hangs quite frequently on the PS logo now, regardless of game, and FF7 (on disc 3 now) has MASSIVE loading issues. parts of the world map literally fail to load for several seconds. so obviously, pic related needs a new laser unit. are the ones from china any good? or would I be better off getting one from a dead 9000 series or something?

honestly, the only reason I bought the 7501 instead of the 9001 was for the parallel port.

[Anonymous No.2403081]

For some reason I only hear radio stations when I hook up my Famicom to my tv. Does someone know why and if this is fixable?

[Anonymous No.2403095]

>>2403081
Perhaps you pulled the RF shield off of it, and now it picks up RF.

[Anonymous No.2403102]

A co worker of mine asked me if I could fix his two game gears, he says the screens are only visible if you tilt them a certain way. Is this a common issue with them? Could I just buy a new screen and slap it in?

[Anonymous No.2403114]

>>2403102
Replace the capacitors in them. Most problems can be caused by their failure.

[Anonymous No.2403156]

Got a SNES from a friend, carts are loose when placed inside and bumping them causes the game to disconnect. Any solution besides stuffing shit in to hold it in place?

[Anonymous No.2403206]

>>2403156
The pins on the connector need to be bent back out to make contact with the cartridge contacts.
You can use a sewing needle or very small flat head screwdriver to do it.

[Anonymous No.2403228]

>>2403206
Yeah, I assumed it was something with the connector pins. Are there any resources for doing it correctly? I ordered some bit screws but they haven't arrived yet.

By the way, the wiki has a list of region locked stuff for SNES, but does that apply to NSTC-US consoles? I picked up Majin Tensei and Kyuuyaku which it lists as locked, but testing them with ZNES's region function runs them fine. >inb4zsnes

[Anonymous No.2403239]

>>2403095
it didn´t have an RF shield

[Anonymous No.2403270]

>>2403102
Screens are good. Change the caps.

[Anonymous No.2403284]

If I just want to play Japan games on my snes do I just have to remove that tabs that are inside of it or do I need the region mod as well? I searched around and am getting mixed answers

[Anonymous No.2403290]

>>2398180
No, that's a DSI (serial) port. It doesn't carry RGB.

[Anonymous No.2403308]

>>2403284
If you have a US SNES, yes, just cut the tabs or use a physical pass through device if you don't want to cut the tabs.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2403310]

>>2403228
It has Megaman X2 listed, and the NTSC-J version works fine on my US console.
I don't know whether that supposed software lock is only on the US version though.

[Anonymous No.2403337]

>>2403310
Yeah, it seems weird because I can find little evidence supporting these software lockouts anywhere else. PAL naturally has the THIS SOFTWARE IS NOT DESIGNED from the region lock out, but the internet suggests all NTSC carts are compatible.

[Anonymous No.2403343]

I built this, it allows me to play Gyromite with only one player and without that stupid robot that never works right.

[Anonymous No.2403357]

>>2403343
oh yeah the 2nd player B & A buttons are mapped to the SNES pad's Y and X buttons.

[Anonymous No.2403391]

>>2403343
Those buttons are sexy as fuck, dude.

[Anonymous No.2403414]

>>2403391
The NES had a great colour scheme, though not as good as the Super Famicom or PAL SNES, I feel it is much better than the US SNES colour scheme.

[Anonymous No.2403783]

I managed to get a SNES at a local Good Will today for cheap but I'm running into some problems getting it to work.

It powers on fine, but i'm getting the black screen issue. Carts are fine, tested them on a working system. Tried cleaning the SNES pins, no luck there.

What's the best procedure to diagnose what's wrong?

[Anonymous No.2404202]

best way to restore yellow snes?

[Anonymous No.2404214]

>>2404202
Retrobright is really the only thing you can do. There's some arguments over whether using it causes the plastic to become fragile and the yellowing will come back again eventually.

[Anonymous No.2404382]

>>2403239
>>2403095
>>2403081
Famicom doesn't have RF shielding.

If you want to preserve the RF output you can make a faraday cage. A more thorough fix would be to mod it for composite and disconnect the RF completely. If you mod for composite but don't disconnect the RF it will just do the same but through composite instead.

[Anonymous No.2404384]

>>2404382
A rare knowledgeable post.

[Anonymous No.2404389]

>>2404384
These threads are always full of knowledgeable posts, what are you talking about?

[Anonymous No.2404394]

>>2404389
There also full of trolls suggesting anhero or idiots refusing to admit that a retron 5 is nothing more than an emulator a chinese guy poorly setup for you.

[Anonymous No.2404395]

>>2404394
*They're

[Anonymous No.2404398]

>>2404394
>There also full of trolls suggesting anhero or idiots refusing to admit that a retron 5 is nothing more than an emulator a chinese guy poorly setup for you.

Not in the last five or so that I remember.

[Anonymous No.2404586]

>>2403783
Are you using composite? I tried an RF box with a SNES the other day and it was junk.

[Anonymous No.2405271]

>>2404586
Yeah I'm using Composite.

[Anonymous No.2405282]

>>2405271
Try rf if you can?

[Anonymous No.2405290]

>>2405282
Just tried RF. Still get the black screen, but it does beep once.

[Anonymous No.2405564]

Disassembling my n64's power supply on the suspicion that it may have a capacitor on the verge of death, but it seems stuck to the top half of the case pretty good. I've read that it's attached with two pieces of sticky foam and that you can just yank it off, but what's the best way to get a grip on it? I'm afraid that I may break the PCB.

[Anonymous No.2406067]

>>2402246
Why not just try and find a 7501 and take the entire CD assembly out?

It's much easier then replacing the laser is much harder.

And it's been a while sense I've opened up a PS1 but I know that some models aren't interchangeable for the entire assembly.

[Anonymous No.2406068]

>>2405564
PCB's are pretty tough. I had the same problem but I just went for it. They have like you said, some very sticky strips in there that holds them together.

[Anonymous No.2406076]

>>2406067
I meant the entire assembly. I can get them off ebay for 7-10$. most of them are from china, though.

[Anonymous No.2406078]

>>2406076
Yeah, you'd be better off just taking the chance on picking up a PS1 for that and seeing if the the internals work.

[Anonymous No.2406508]

Hey guys, when should I adjust a Sega cd laser?

[Anonymous No.2406673]

>>2402246
I bought one of those Chinese lasers, I had to change the spin motor for the original one because it made a grinding noise but the lens was perfect.

That was almost a year ago and it is still going strong.

[Anonymous No.2406685]

I bought a DKC2 game that is showing me this message when I try to play it.

What causes this? Needless to say, I'm using a common and legit SNES.

[Anonymous No.2406691]

My genesis model 1's headphone jack sounds pretty craptacular, as though it's been blown out or something. Is this common?

[Anonymous No.2406721]

>>2406691
did it sound good before ? If no, you might have a VA7 aka model 2 in a model 1 shell.

[Anonymous No.2406740]

>>2406685
Clean the cartridge. If that doesn't fix it try cleaning your console's pin connector.

[Anonymous No.2406743]

>>2406721
Weirdly enough, mine has that revision yet sounds just fine. Still shits on my model 2

[Anonymous No.2406823]

>>2406721
I got it used and in pretty rough shape, to be honest. Oh god, the sheer amount of cat fur I pulled out of the interior of that thing...

So maybe there's something that can be done, but I don't know. It's the original model though, with the high definition graphics text and the power input all the way to the edge.

[Anonymous No.2407206]

>>2392998
bumping for any ideas

[Anonymous No.2407303]

I searched pretty much everywhere but i couldn't find definitive answers.
I have a PAL saturn model 2 with a v9 motherboard, and after i use the swap trick almost every game reset the console.
At first i thought it was the TOC, so i used the swap trick that store the TOC of the burned game, with this method i've been able to complete dragon force and guardian heroes without resets.
But all the other games i try end for resetting the saturn,
with bomberman saturn sometimes music tracks don't load correctly and this should be related to the TOC, but honestly now i'm just confused.

[Anonymous No.2408578]

Does anyone know the values of those two missing capacitors (c57 and c24)? It's a Va7 Genesis, unfortunately don't have a multimeter right now .

[Anonymous No.2408948]

>>2408578
C57 is unused, should stay empty.
C24 is 10nF

[Anonymous No.2408962]

>>2407303
How are you doing the swap trick? You have to
1. put in the burned disc (to read the toc)
2. swap to the original when it checks the rings
3. swap back to the burned disc for loading to start.

If your console randomly reboots mid-game, it is possible the power supply is crap. I too have a VA9 that doesn't properly work, it crashes and restarts often, until it has properly "warmed up".

[Anonymous No.2408987]

>>2408948
Thank You!

[Anonymous No.2409034]

>>2387737
Hi everyone I want to ask for help. Yesterday I bought Atari 130XE and on the right side was weird a button. So I open it and I just saw this (photo). Can someone say me what is this mod?

[Anonymous No.2409280]

>>2409034
http://www.retrocomputing.net/parts/atari/130xe/docs/sv130-1.html

[Anonymous No.2409309]

How difficult would it be to remove a half torn off sticker like this without damaging the front label of the game?

The method I'm aware of for removing stickers involves olive oil and scrubbing at it in a sink, so...

[Anonymous No.2409317]

How difficult would it be to remove a half torn off sticker like this without damaging the front label of the game?

The method I'm aware of for removing stickers from stuff involves vegetable oil and scrubbing at it in a sink, so...?

[Anonymous No.2409343]

>>2409317
Scrape off what you can with your finger nails. Then get some goo-gone or something similar and use a cotton swab to remove the residue.

[Anonymous No.2409353]

>>2409317
I have only tried the following on non-paper surfaces, but homemade Goo-Gone works well (assuming you have the ingredients already):

http://www.diynatural.com/adhesive-remover-homemade-goo-gone/

Again, use at your own risk on a label.

[Anonymous No.2409358]

>>2409353
(Also note I didn't use orange oil... I may have used a different recipe, but it was coconut oil and baking soda)

[Anonymous No.2409389]

Question: can anyone identify the little grey part at the center of this picture, marked as 221? I think it is a fujitsu electronics ENC221D-10A metal-oxide varistor (MOV), but I'm not 100% sure since I cannot find any images online to positively identify it.

More importantly, what can I do to replace this part? Will any modern MOV with the same voltage specs do fine (VAC 140Vrms, VDC 180, varistor voltage: 220v)? Or do I need to pay attention to other stats as well?

[Anonymous No.2409487]

Would it be possible to make my CRT a secondary monitor for my pc?

[Anonymous No.2409504]

>>2409487
If it is a CRT monitor, then yes, as long as your videocard can handle VGA output. Modern videocards may not be able to!

If it is a TV, then yes, as long as your videocard can output any format your TV can handle as an input (most likely Composite or S-Video, or perhaps component). However, modern cards have stopped providing those outputs for a long time. I think the last card I saw that was capable of doing so was the Radeon 4000 series (which was 7 years ago).

[Anonymous No.2409868]

>>2409504
might there be any converter boxes available on the market?

[Anonymous No.2409902]

>>2409868
I (asker) just googled some and I can't seem to find a decent one, does /vr/ have a recommended converter box for this sort of thing?

[Anonymous No.2409980]

>>2409902
Check out retrorgb.com for anything regarding old analog video signals, retrofitingt consoles with RGB output, how to get your RGB signal displayed on a given type of TV/monitor, and more.

[Anonymous No.2410071]

>>2409980
oh cool thanks

[Anonymous No.2410892]

>>2409389
Definitely looks like an MOV, those are used for power surge protection basically. You will probably want to use an MOV that at least matches those specs to be safe.

Also you might want to buy a $10-15 surge protector to put your console(s) on. Those are essentially just an array of several MOVs that protect stuff down the line from surges. Get one with a light so you can tell when its time to replace the strip.

[Anonymous No.2410930]

>>2410892
The item in question blew (along with the fuse) due to connecting a 110v power supply to 220v mains, hence why I need to replace it. The way I understand it, they are specifically there to protect the rest of the circuitry from doing just this kind of idiocy, so once they are replaced, the power supply will work as normal.

Do the other stats (peak energy, peak surge current, clamping voltage etc) matter? Or only the fact that it is a 220v varistor with voltage rating of 180Vrms VAC and 140V VDC?

[Anonymous No.2410990]

>>2410930
I would try to match the original. Going under risks the MOV burning up. Going over could make it so the MOV doesn't do anything in the event of an actual surge.

I believe peak energy is how much it can absorb in a surge and clamp voltage is the maximum voltage it will allow through. Peak surge is max current I guess?

It's easier to just go with the original specs.

[Anonymous No.2411008]

So What's the best X360 softmod method today? A friend gave me his old one and I wanna play Banjo HD.

[Anonymous No.2411569]

Is there any functional difference between this PSOne branded controller and a dualshock 2? It's got the larger L2/R2 buttons and firmer sticks you usually see on PS2 controllers. So I assume the only difference is the lack of pressure sensitivity on the face buttons.

I'm asking because I have a frayed DS2 that needs a replacement cable, not sure if I want to gut this one to do that or not, or even if DS1 controllers have the same wires inside.

[Anonymous No.2411785]

>>2411569
Yes it may look similar but they're are differences. They're mostly interchangeable but I've run into enough differences that I keep a set around. Also, the PSOne controllers look cool and gutting one for an easily obtainable cable is retarded.

[Anonymous No.2411939]

I have a PS1 and PS2 (slim). I want to mod one or the other or both to play import PS1 games...I'd probably prefer to mod the PS2 since it does component output.

What's my cheapest option here without having to do the disc swap method? The PS1 is already "soft modded" to do the disc swap method, but I don't want to do that since it's bad for the console.

[Anonymous No.2412083]

>>2411939
with all the chipped PS2 I've encountered, when playing PS1 games the display is 480i, even if the game is originally 240p.

[Anonymous No.2412145]

>>2412083

Hrm...Is that just how the PS2 displays PS1 games, or is that just on modded consoles? Are you saying that I should forget about component and be using my PS1 to play PS1 games?

[Anonymous No.2412149]

>>2412145
only modded. But on these even original games get displayed interlaced for some reason.

[Anonymous No.2412175]

>>2412149

Interesting...I never heard that.

[Anonymous No.2412218]

>>2412175
maybe it has changed with newer chips, but with messiah 2 up to crystal chip, this behavior has been constant.

[Anonymous No.2412294]

What is a good transformer so that I as an American can use European vintage computers?

[Anonymous No.2412298]

>>2412218

So, are there any other options that don't do this?

[Anonymous No.2412315]

>>2412294
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-1000-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B003OPFJD6/ref=pd_sim_23_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DVF9SVT8SPDYT8S4MHZ

then you can just get a european surge protector, I wouldn't daisy chain more than one though, if you have more than 6 I'd buy another transformer

[Anonymous No.2412320]

>>2412315
wait a minute, so if I use this, would the frequency of the voltage be pal or ntsc?

[Anonymous No.2412343]

>>2412320
It won't convert frequencies. I'm not sure what affect that would have on any computers you use, you would probably still need a PAL/NTSC converter if you're going from a European console to an American television

[Anonymous No.2412392]

>>2406823
Probably a dirty jack or volume control slider.

>>2412320
Frequency shouldn't matter if it uses a switching power supply and doesn't do something odd like deriving the clock from the AC line frequency.

[Anonymous No.2412401]

>>2412392
So what, I can just take a European console and plug it into my American television with RF or what ever else?

[Anonymous No.2412552]

>>2412298
for ps2 I have no idea.
on the other hand, chips for ps1 are very cheap and dead simple to install. If you care about this it's probably easier to mod the ps1

[Anonymous No.2412838]

This may not be a retro console persay, but maybe you guys can help.

I wanted to use my wii to emulate on my old crt, but my wii isn't giving me any video. I'm using component cables and never used anything else. It use to work on this same tv, but now it will turn on and give audio only (no video). I tried hooking it up to a different TV using different component cables but it had the same result. Any suggestions? I'm worried something got shot inside of it while I wasn't looking.

[Anonymous No.2412841]

>>2412838
fuck I meant *composite cables
I'm shit at this A/V stuff

[Anonymous No.2413742]

A friend gave me his old broken Xbox 360 (not retro, but /v/ doesn't have any repair generals).

The thing that's wrong is that it won't display the color blue when using component and no picture at all through composite. Any ideas what it could be?

[Anonymous No.2413761]

>>2413742
A broken ANA/HANA chip. It's the video display chip that transmits the framebuffer to the various video outputs.

[Anonymous No.2413765]

Got a fucked up Dreamcast for free. Starts up and shows the DC Logo, then black screen. Sometimes manages to show the Date Settings, then black screen again.
The DC has a hole in the back... in the shape of a VGA plug. Checked modding sites and the solder pins, yeah someone tried the VGA Mod and failed. Resoldered the pins that looked like shit... still black screen. I noticed that one solder pad is completely missing, could it be the culprit?

[Anonymous No.2415556]

>>2413765
See if you can use a wire to bridge the trace or look for any other damage that might have been done by the mod attempt.

[Anonymous No.2415585]

How do I fix this fucking thing?

[Anonymous No.2415736]

>>2415585
You don't

But, if you're looking for a project, you're going to have to cut off all the bad components, clean the rust off, re-insulate any exposed traces, and then install new components.


lucky for you, there's enough of that last resistor to maybe tell its rating.

[Anonymous No.2415741]

>>2415585
You need some new resistors and whatever that one is above them, and a new save battery.
Assuming that nothing else was damaged from the water and corroded battery.
You could take the parts off a sports game you don't care about or just buy them online if you can tell what the values are on them.

[Anonymous No.2415745]

>>2415741
Some one with a working copy could tell him the values, or something like that.

[Anonymous No.2415759]

>>2415745
I've fixed a few snes games and the resistors are usually all the same, and I think that was a diode above them.
It's definitely fixable if you have the parts.
I'll check this thread tomorrow and help with the values.

[Anonymous No.2415761]

>>2415759
I was going to say if you could find a similar board lay out in a game. I know they all have some sort of XX -ROM code in them for the boards and ROM type.

[Anonymous No.2415765]

>>2415759
I just looked them up and they are capacitors and there were of them above the resistors.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2415785]

>>2415585
>>2415745
Based on the filename, I opened my copy and there more on that board than the one I have.
Is that one maybe a SMAS+SMW?

[Anonymous No.2415836]

>>2415585
1. You clean all the dirt away.
2. Replace all broken parts (D2,R2 are fucked, check the neighbor parts)
3. Check all the traces and repair them.
4. Add battery(holder).
5. ?????
6. PROFIT

Also post the board code, the one that starts with SVHC.
You can solder resistors in any way, but diodes must face the right way.

[Anonymous No.2415843]

>>2415785
No. It's the regular version.
>>2415836
It's SHVC-2A3B-01

[Anonymous No.2415851]

>>2415836
>solder resistors in any way
> muh autism

Do you even dress your PCB's bro? Tolerance bands always go to the right, read the resistor value like you read text, left to right.

[Anonymous No.2415925]

>>2415851
>Do you even dress your PCB's bro?
THANK YOU.

i had to fix a transistor nixie clock for a friend. a display piece.
the fucker just shoved all the components in, all willy nilly.

IT'S A SHOW PIECE. you're showing off the incredible circuit that turns 1500 transistors into a fucking high voltage nixie clock.
pic related, how it should have looked.


oh, and all stars anon, hope you fix it!

[Anonymous No.2416057]

>>2415843
The diodes can be almost anything, just use a small signal silicon one like 1N4148.
The resistors R1, R2 are 10K ohm, tolerance and wattage isn't really important here.
After you soldered everything you should measure the voltage between SRAM pin 28 and ground.
It should be over 2,5V alone and about 5V when inserted and powered in console.

[Anonymous No.2416352]

>>2416057
How the hell do you make cart scan pictures like that? I tried doing them before, but my scanner gets completely out of focus on anything that is not directly touching the glass.

[Anonymous No.2416359]

Why anons ?
Why ?
Why do some ntsc games reset to the main menu on my pal dreamcast ?
I tried playing gundam side story with composite cable and PAL bios and it reset.
Composite cable and NTSC bios and it reset.
SCART cable PAL and NTSC bios and it reset.
Is it normal ?
This doesn't happen with all ntsc games, is there a decent explanation ?
I would like to know why this happens even when i change the bios and i use composite cables, at that point it's like playing on an ntsc dreamcast.
I want to add that i'm using composite cables through a vga box, does that make a difference ?

[Totse Redux No.2416361]

>>2392998
Is the lid closed switch in the right position?

[Totse Redux No.2416397]

>>2393029
Put the console on it's side.

[Anonymous No.2416437]

>>2416352
you don't scan them.

you take high quality, high resolution photos - straight on.

then just mask it to a white/transparent background

[Anonymous No.2416473]

What causes audio feedback? I am getting allot of it while playing my MVS super gun

[Anonymous No.2416561]

>>2416437
That's what I was afraid of. It is painful to do those for larger boards, unfortunately.

[Anonymous No.2416580]

>>2415585
First of all, clean it thoroughly, use a toothbrush if you can to remove all that shit without damaging the components. Then take more pictures to see what else is wrong with that cart

[Anonymous No.2416795]

I am mildly retarded and am having a tough time getting the ribbon cable for the controller PCB back into the MOBO slot in my SNES after undoing the top.

What do?

[Anonymous No.2416873]

>>2416795
Disregard this, I am a faggot who didn't realize the controller port detaches from the top.

[Anonymous No.2416942]

Asked this question the other day but not in this thread. I got an answer but I'd like more opinions if possible.

I picked up a VA2 model 1 genesis and it works great except for one thing - certain music tracks on it sound like shit from the front audio port. I've heard that this is actually typical of that model and you need to do a preamp mod to fix it (pictured).

I'm just curious if that's actually my problem or if I'll be replacing more capacitors (those are in the mail already).

Here's a Contra Hard Corps recording I made of my VA2 - this is by far the worst example. In many games there's no problem with the audio, but this song and a few others sound like ass:

http://picosong.com/jcCw/

And here's the same track on my VA6:

http://picosong.com/jcCe/

>>2406691

if you're still around, does it sound like my genesis?

[Anonymous No.2418746]

Just did this mod on my NTSC Master System.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/downloads/fourxsms1.zip

The system works perfectly fine in 60hz mode but doesn't power on when switched to 50hz. Anyone know what I can do?

[Anonymous No.2418750]

>>2416795
>>2416873
these are my favorite posts in the repair/mod generals.

glad you sorted it all out

[Anonymous No.2421168]

bumping

[Anonymous No.2421873]

If I have a console that smells like it used to be in a smoking environment, what would be the best and quickest way to get rid of the smell inside and out? I cleaned the outside and now it's in a drawer with some dryer sheets, but I don't know how effective that's going to be.

I don't really want to have to take it apart to clean it.

[Anonymous No.2421879]

>>2421873
Sadly, that's what you're going to have to do.

What console is it?

[Anonymous No.2421884]

>>2421879

A Japanese Saturn.

[Anonymous No.2421889]

>>2421884
Yeah, you're kinda...fucked.

Saturn's aren't the easiest to take apart. And pretty much everyone in Japan smoked back then.

[Anonymous No.2421894]

>>2421889

I guess I'll deal with it...It doesn't seem that bad...I didn't even notice it until I really put my face up to it.

[Anonymous No.2422007]

>>2421873
>>2421894
Put it in a closed off environment together with a bowl of water+vinegar (50/50). Leave it there for 1-2 days depending on severity of smoke smell.

[Anonymous No.2422010]

>>2421894
>>2422007

Aren't dryer sheets supposedly good at removing general odors? I think I've heard people suggest tossing them into arcade cabs to combat odor.

[Anonymous No.2422021]

>>2422010
Dryer sheets just cover up odors, Anon.

[Anonymous No.2422035]

>>2422007

White vinegar? How much?

[Anonymous No.2422050]

>>2422007

Also, would it help if I also put baking soda in there with the console and vinegar/water? Not mixed with with vinegar/water, obviously...Just on its own.

[Anonymous No.2422119]

>>2422007
Putting it down inside a big bag of clean cat litter works too.

[Anonymous No.2422128]

>>2422119

That wouldn't damage it? I'll only do that as a last resort if nothing else works.

[Anonymous No.2422581]

>>2422035
>water+vinegar (50/50)

200ml + 200ml?

[Anonymous No.2423217]

>>2422581

I got the 50/50 part...I was just asking if I should use a cup of each or half a cup or what.

[Anonymous No.2423219]

Also, putting it in a drawer with dryer sheets over night seems to have done a good job of covering up the smell, which is good for now.

[Anonymous No.2424710]

I recently (15 mins ago) got an original game boy, and when you turn it on, the screen is black except for two vertical lines, which are still green, for any game inserted into it. I can hear the signature ding as i turn it on, and with whatever game is inserted, it works and you can hear the music/title sounds.

Is this is fixable?

[Anonymous No.2424726]

>>2424710
Clean the GB and games

[Anonymous No.2424742]

>>2424710
Is the contrast dial turned all the way up?

[Anonymous No.2424823]

>>2424742
I refuse to believe that fixed the problem, but that fixed the problem. -_- Thank you, anon.

[Anonymous No.2424825]

>>2424823
It's easy to forget that it's there if you haven't used one in a long time.

Does it still have missing bars?

[Anonymous No.2424828]

>>2424823
>>2424710
The 2-3 lines are still missing however. Is there a fix for that?

[Anonymous No.2424835]

>>2418746

Anyone?

[Anonymous No.2424843]

>>2424828
You have to "iron" the ribbon cable for the screen.

The glue that keeps it in place gets old and comes loose. Try looking up "gameboy missing lines fix" for video instructions

>>2424835
I'm not very familiar with the SMS, sorry.

[Anonymous No.2424858]

>>2424843
Sounds challenging, I will try it. Thank you again!

[Anonymous No.2424870]

>>2424858
Be careful that you don't melt the ribbon cable. If you do that, you absolutely can't fix it and need a replacement screen.

[Anonymous No.2425472]

Is component normally brighter than composite by default? I'm trying to play Symphony of the Night on a PS2 [PS1 is disassembled because I was modchipping it and my hands are too shaky], and just plugged in the component cables. In addition to everything being ultra sharp [expected], it's incredibly bright with the settings I use for composite. Like, in order to make the colors match, I have to decrease my TV brightness by 15 out of 50.

[Anonymous No.2426140]

I've been given a lot of conflicting information from many different sources and I don't know who to trust. What's the easiest, cheapest method (short of the swap method) for modification of a scph-9001 playstation? Or should I wait for PSIO, sell this thing and get a 7XXX series?

[Anonymous No.2426345]

How do you clean game carts? I bought a gameboy game which had a lot of discolouration and also has black pen on the back. It's not too much of a pain, but I would like to know if I have many options.

[Anonymous No.2426379]

>>2426345
Game bit. Nintendo and Sega both used them

[Anonymous No.2426383]

Got a question more then a problem.

If I where to import a Super Famicom, would I be able to use the AC adapter from my SNES?

Both output the same Voltage, Amps, and are the same polarity

[Anonymous No.2426402]

I dusted off my SNES and tried to run some games, but I'm having a problem with the video coming through. Either the picture comes up black or I get very limited colors, mostly black picture. The sound works great though.

I cleaned off the SNES carts with alcohol and now I'm waiting for the SNES cart holder itself to dry after some credit-card in the T-shirt trick but if that doesn't help, what should I do? Try to get an RF switch? Is the LCD an issue?

[Anonymous No.2426406]

>>2426402
id try to see if the wires you're using are the actual issue or not first.

[Anonymous No.2426407]

>>2426383
American SNES? You'll need to replace the connector. The pal SNES has the right connector, as does the Genesis model 1, and the Famicom.

[Anonymous No.2426410]

>>2426402
>credit-card in the T-shirt trick

Ohhhhh... That's a risky as fuck move man. You can get the cloth stuck on the pins.

As for what to do. You're running it though RCA, right? Like >>2426406
said, the wires is where I would start at.

The fact you're also using a LCD a factor. I know you can plug RCA into most LCD TV's but you have to tell them they're connecting to composite not component.

Having an LCD in component mode while running composite will give you the results you've described.

[Anonymous No.2426426]

>>2426406
>>2426410

Originally I was using the Nintendo issued A/V cables. Sound came in fine, but the video was wonky. Then I tried the A/V cables I used for my gamecube with similar results. I've tried to run that through composite plugs as well (plugging the yellow in green) but I get no video at all that way. I don't have an RF switch, would that work better on a hi def LCD than the current a/v cables?

[Anonymous No.2426431]

>>2426426
Most likely not

See if you can't test on a CRT TV

[Anonymous No.2426432]

>>2426407
Does the North American SNES adapter simply not fit in the Super Famicom even though it meets all the requirements?

[Anonymous No.2426434]

>>2426426
there's a high chance you're just not setting it up properly on the tv. i'd try it on another tv to be sure, and then move on from there. you really don't want to use rf at all.

[Anonymous No.2426441]

>>2426431
>>2426434

After letting it dry I'm still not getting video. Absolutely no video. On both sets of A/V cables. Audio is still fine though, no errors. Tested with multiple games. I'm using a Sony Bravia by the way. Don't have a spare CRT to test it on.

[Anonymous No.2426445]

>>2426441
Don't know what to tell you man

You might need to open it up and take a look

[Anonymous No.2426447]

>>2426441
you got a phone or camera or something? what do the ports on this TV look like? i'm searching google but it's giving me mixed results. this seems to be the most common layout.

[Anonymous No.2426450]

>>2426447

Yea, it looks something like that, but mirrored, and no s-video. There's also a Video channel on the side of the TV that I've been using, which has the red, white, and yellow plug. Using the plugs on the side and the ones on the back don't seem to make much difference. If I jiggle the Yellow cable a bit, the video will come up sometimes, but it's very limited colors and mostly black. I just want to know if my SNES is kaput or if I need to use another TV.

[Anonymous No.2426451]

>>2426432
The case redesign also included a different plug socket. It's too big for the original SuFami.

[Anonymous No.2426452]

>>2426450
>If I jiggle the Yellow cable a bit, the video will come up sometimes, but it's very limited colors and mostly black

THIS sounds way more like your TV than anything else. I've had issues like this before that completely disappeared on other tv's. if the problem was you needing to jiggle it or lean pressure on it from the console side of things, i'd say your system was fucked. this kind of just sounds like your TV's video inputs are acting up. first chance you get, try it on another tv. doesn't even have to be crt, just try it on something.

[Anonymous No.2426453]

>>2426451
Ah, alright

Is there any sort of simple converter out there that I could buy?

I know the Super Famicom is Outer Diameter 5.5mm; Inner Diameter 2.5mm

Just don't know what the SNES one is called.

[Anonymous No.2426457]

>>2426452

All right, thanks for the input, there's another TV in the house to try, smaller, don't know if it'll make any difference but we'll see.

I do know that I've used that A/V cable for the Gamecube about two months ago on this TV i've been trying and it worked fine.

[Anonymous No.2426461]

>>2426453
I suppose if I really wanted I could go and replace the entire port on the back

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo-SNES-Replacement-Power-Port-Jack-Adapter-/170920461238?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27cba743b6

[Anonymous No.2426463]

>>2426452
>>2426445

I just tested the cables with my Gamecube on the same Bravia TV. No problems at all, audio and visual come in fine. So I can rule out the cables, at least.

[Anonymous No.2426465]

>>2426463
Could be some sort of sync issue with an older system

beats the shit out of me

[Anonymous No.2428235]

So, discs are scraping against the lid on my Saturn when they're spinning. Is this normal? Is this an easy fix?

[Anonymous No.2428354]

How doable would you say replacing NES cart batteries would be for someone who has never done it and never used a soldering iron before in their life?

[Anonymous No.2428374]

>>2428354
It's not too complex, but I always recommend that people new to soldering just mess around on a broken electronic to get a feel for it.

Remembering to use flux and don't keep it too hot too long are some basics to remember.

[Anonymous No.2428384]

Sort of an odd question, but does anyone have a good idea on how to clean up the fuzziness of an RF image?

[Anonymous No.2428415]

>>2428235

Okay...Fixed that just by loosening up the screws. But, when I got inside of it, I noticed this (it was taped down, but I took the tape off because it was yellowed)...Is that a mod chip? It has ICT written in blocky white letters on the EPROM.

[Anonymous No.2428418]

>>2428415

Oops...Forgot the picture.

[Anonymous No.2428468]

>>2428374
this is funny, 'cause I just swapped out a few SNES batteries.

At first, I forgot to use flux, and I wasn't able to get a clean fill on the solder pad... let it cool for a bit, brushed some flux on it, went at it again for a second, done.

Lol.

[Anonymous No.2428470]

>>2428418
looks like one to me, but i'm no expert

[Anonymous No.2428492]

>>2428470

I don't know anything about mod chips...But I noticed it because it looks very out of place, especially the way it was taped.

[Anonymous No.2428495]

>>2428492
Well if that random black wire is soldered to the power pin there, it's definitely a mod chip, and a sloppy install.

[Anonymous No.2428509]

>>2428495

It certainly is. A sloppy install isn't going to cause any problems, is it? I didn't know that it was modded when I got it...I found it at a second hand store.

[Anonymous No.2428546]

>>2428509
>A sloppy install isn't going to cause any problems, is it?
No, it just makes it annoying to disassemble, since you have to desolder the wire to get the power board off.

[Anonymous No.2428575]

>>2428546

I can't just unplug that pin thing from the board?

[Anonymous No.2428584]

>>2428575
The pins are anchored to the bottom board and push up through the top one.

[Anonymous No.2428594]

>>2428584

Oh...Okay...I can't think of any reason that I'd want to disassemble it like that, anyway.

[Anonymous No.2428898]

>>2428418
Yeah this is def a mod chip i installed one just then on mine which brings me to my question:

I thought i'd be ok using this 50/60hz region mod http://www.retrocorner.net/index.php?Mods_%2F_repairs:Saturn_model_2_50%2F60hz_switch_-_page_2 but my VA9 PAL saturn with 21 pin cd drive connector and round buttons has no such contacts beside the battery slot. What is the easiest way for me to mod it without lifting pins if possible? I would rather set it to permanent 60hz rather than lift pins. Also will a universal v3 modchip mean I can play copied japanese games or will I need an Action Replay as well?

[Anonymous No.2428910]

>>2428898
modchip only bypasses the copy protection. The region protection is completely separate.

Get a model 1 if you can't figure out how to do the 50/60 mod (you just need a multimeter to look up some traces).

[Anonymous No.2429130]

Can an RGB modded N64 still output composite video or no?

About how much should I expect to pay for all the required materials?

[Anonymous No.2429163]

>>2387737
What's a good first project? I've been thinking about tweaking controllers, but I'd certainly like some inspo.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2429195]

>>2429130
>Can an RGB modded N64 still output composite video or no?
All the RGB mod is doing is delivering RGB to the pins already on the AV connector. Unless you purposefully disconnect or cut traces to the circuitry needed for composite (or S-Video) it'll still work fine.

As for costs, if it's one of the earlier models that still generate RGB, all you need is a little video amplifier and some resistors.
http://www.retrorgb.com/n64.html
You can buy the custom board they have here or put one together yourself. The custom board does definitely look nicer and easier to install than doing it yourself but are functionally the same.

Later models can still be modded, but require more work and is more expensive.
http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=209&rn=548&action=show_detail

[Anonymous No.2429223]

>>2428594
Cleaning, future repair, etc.

[Anonymous No.2429226]

>>2429195
>The pins already on the AV connector

Ok. Do I have to use a scart cable and then some kind of powered scart to component converter since I live in the US? There don't seem to be any component cables commercially available.

I also seem to have one of the bad DACs for this, MAV-NUS. At least I got a chance to clean everything. Might be easier to just ask some friends if they'd be willing to trade consoles

[Anonymous No.2429252]

>>2426463
strangest shit i've heard all day. i'd still try the combo on another tv just to rule it out, could be the tv not playing nice with it, but if after it doesn't show up on another tv, crack that fucker open and see if you can spot the problem. lose soldering job or some shit close to the av

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2429304]

>>2429226
>Do I have to use a scart cable and then some kind of powered scart to component converter since I live in the US?
Without a TV/monitor with RGB, that is one route you can take and will let you use other systems over RGB as well.

I've read claims of the NESRGB's component addon working with the SNES/SNES2, so I wonder if it would be possible to use with the N64RGB. Might be something to contact Tim about.

[Anonymous No.2430215]

>>2428546
Can I ask where is a better place to connect to 5v from there?

[Anonymous No.2430289]

>>2416361
well that's the thing, I push down on the switch all the way and the laser fires up and even shuttles back and forth if the laser isn't in the starting position, and yet the drive motor doesn't spin. I'm thinking it might be the flexible flat cable that links the drive controller to the system mobo, as there's 2 lifted "pins" on the cable.

[Anonymous No.2430410]

>>2425472
That's probably normal. Composite mixes all the signals together so everything overall is probably weaker by the time it reaches the TV.

[Anonymous No.2430419]

>>2430215
The best place would be a test point, but the input side of a component the 5v runs to would work as well.

[Anonymous No.2430434]

>>2428384
RF will be rough no matter what, the only thing you can really do to make it decent is shield it with a faraday cage. Any stray RF will cause it to get scrambled. The RF shield inside older consoles like the NES is designed for that exact purpose.

If you're using an RF switch you might want to get rid of that and just connect the console directly to the TV with a phono to coax adapter instead. Anything inline with the coax cable will degrade the signal a bit so straight through is the most preferable method.

[Anonymous No.2430437]

Looking for a good guide to lifting a 40 pin DIP off a board.

I have a top loading NES and I'd like to lift the PPU off so I can build my own video amp, but I really don't like the idea of cutting a leg off old hardware.

[Anonymous No.2430492]

What type of outputs do people use for RGB outputs on nodded systems? I'm about to mod an snes mini, and Im not sure what to use. I have some panel mount RCA jacks, but getting green and blue ones is expensive. I've also looked at using a VGA type connector, but I can't find them in panel mount and I'd rather not mutilate the back of my console.

[Anonymous No.2430515]

>>2430492
SCART and BNC are standard. VGA uses two separate signals for horizontal and vertical sync so I'm not sure if it's possible to use VGA

[Anonymous No.2430524]

>>2430515
Also those red, green, and blue cables with component aren't actually RGB they use another color space called YUV which is basically the same quality but compressed so it's not directly compatible. If you want your TV to recognize the signal over those cables you'll have to convert the signal from RGB to YUV.

[Anonymous No.2430717]

>>2430437
Alternatively, anyone got a place that would sell me a PPU already pulled?

[Anonymous No.2430783]

>>2430437
>>2430717
huh, remove Q1 and use the base hole ? Looks much easier

[Anonymous No.2430796]

>>2430783
Got a high res picture of the top loader board I can take a look at?

[Anonymous No.2430812]

>>2430796
Q1 is the video amp. Pin21 goes straight from PPU to Q1 base.
Supposedly, lifting pin is to avoid jailbars.

[Anonymous No.2430815]

>>2430812
Hmmm, maybe

Like you said, jail bars are the problem here.

I'm wondering if the problem area is beyond that, or before it.

I heard it runs near a 5v rail somewhere

[Anonymous No.2430826]

>>2430815
Just lift the pin. If you're removing Q1, it's seriously not much more effort to pull the pin too.

Hell, I fucked mine up and broke the pin off, but I just shaved down the chip a bit and soldered to the inside.

[Anonymous No.2430827]

>>2430826
Eh, I would just like to lift the entire chip then

[Anonymous No.2430848]

>>2430827
if you don't have proper gear, don't engage in full desoldering...

[Anonymous No.2430851]

>>2430848
I do, I just don't like doing it because it's a proper pain the ass and with a 40 pin DIP there's just that risk of ruining the chip

[Anonymous No.2430852]

>>2425472
it could be the cable you've got is missing resistors or something.

[Anonymous No.2430854]

>>2430419
I'm sorry you'll have to explain this.

[Anonymous No.2431464]

>>2430854
It's not that important, just something that annoys me with mods on these types of power connections.

[Anonymous No.2432489]

Is replacing the VMU sockets on my dreamcast controller in the territory of "if you have to ask, you can't do it"? My alternative is to just swap out the shell and buttons into another controller I found that works much more consistently but is dirtier than a filipino hooker and just about as yellow.

[Anonymous No.2432905]

>>2432489
It's easier by far to just swap the controller innards.

[Anonymous No.2432978]

>tfw I cleaned my kirby dream land 2 contacts
Holy fuck I thought that the contacts had dissapeared. Just wanted to share some satisfaction.

[Anonymous No.2432986]

What are some good quality game bits?
I bought one of nintendo's triangularish screw drivers, but it was extremely flimsy and bends with any amount of force put onto it. If you have pictures of a particularly good one, It'd help greatly. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.2433030]

>>2429252
This. Test on another TV. It's a SNES, so it probably has seen some use. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage of the adapter. Some tend to go bad. It can also be the caps, there are replacement kits you can order.

[Anonymous No.2433089]

>>2432986
just get a 3 dollar bit set off ebay/aliexpress and use that/attach it to a drill?

[Anonymous No.2433093]

>>2431464
right now i've got the wire wedged in between the metal contact and the plastic because I will have to take it all apart again to do a 60hz mod so i'd like to know a better way of doing it.

[Anonymous No.2433146]

I bought a used gameboy game which plays fine, and when I turned it off and back on again I can see my save. However when I take the cartridge out and put it back in again, the save is gone! Do I need a new battery?

[Anonymous No.2433304]

Accidentally used a NES AC with my sega cd model 2 and now it wont power on with its normal AC ;_;

Can it be saved with a fuse replacement or is it gone forever?

[Anonymous No.2433319]

>>2433304
if it has a fuse, replace the fuse
if it doesn't, it's probably fucked
the NES takes 9VAC, most other devices take DC, so plugging the NES adapter into your sega cd could've fucked up a lot of things

[Anonymous No.2433738]

>>2433319
american NES takes 9V DC. It's the PAL NES that takes AC

[Anonymous No.2433745]

>>2433738
wait nevermind, I'm full of shit

[Anonymous No.2434243]

>>2433093
Find a test point on the 5v trace and solder to that.

[Anonymous No.2435385]

>>2433146
you need a new battery man

[Anonymous No.2435542]

Console: N64 (US)
Modded for RGB

So, I was going to take a picture of my N64 running on my CRT monitor for another anon, but my N64 stopped working.

Symptoms:
-System ran perfectly just a few months ago. Was not packed away or anything, May have been moved a bit but mostly just sat near my monitor.
-Red power LED comes on
-No picture, a white line will flicker sometimes when turning it on
-No audio

What I've done:
-Expansion pack is in
-Tried a few carts
-Cleaned one of said carts with alcohol
-Tried the RGB cable on my SFC - worked fine
-Opened the AC adapter - no leaking caps

I really don't know what to do. I'm going to take apart the system some more to check to make sure nothing shorted from the mod, but again the system has worked fine for quite some time after doing the mod. Really at a loss since I rarely have problems with home game consoles.

[Anonymous No.2435547]

>>2435542
It's most likely just a shoddy solder joint coming loose, I tend to hotglue mine down.

[Anonymous No.2435565]

>>2435547
I'm taking it apart to verify the joints. However, even if the RGB mod parts have come loose, shouldn't I at least have audio?

[Anonymous No.2435627]

>>2435565
A joint could have come loose and hit another pin or something, short circuiting the whole board.