/vr/ - Retro Games

File: 101 KB, 684x629, Gtw_mario.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki Anonymous Tue Jan 13 02:16:46 2015 No.2176501 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Discuss any mods or repairs you're working on here!

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

Old thread: >>2097667

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 13 04:14:18 2015 No.2176636

What could lead to properly cleaned copy of Sonic Spinball to not work with properly cleaned Genesis?

Playing it in a model 1 will at least bring up TMSS(compared to nothing on a model 3) but it won't go any further than that.

Could the capacitor(s) on the (game's) board going bad cause this to happen?

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 13 13:26:33 2015 No.2177296 >>2176636 Well, capacitors going bad on anything can cause problems with it. Do you suspect the caps on the game to be bad?

Anonymous Tue Jan 13 13:38:52 2015 No.2177324

>>2176636
the same thing that causes my properly cleaned metroid ii not to work in any of my gb-capable devices.

it took a bath in a bowl of soup and was immediately powered up
or
took a spin in the ol' microwave

i'll never know why my metroid ii doesn't work... i have reflowed every component.
gameboys don't even boot up to the gameboy logo when it's in, just flashes and power cycles ad infinitum

replace the caps, you never know. i always loved spinball, that's too bad.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 13 13:46:19 2015 No.2177341

>>2177296
Honestly, I don't know. The game has just been sitting unplayed for who knows how long.

It doesn't look like it's bad, but looks can be deceiving; Might see if I can figure out what values it's supposed to be and take a multimeter to it.

>>2177324
Perhaps Samus just wasn't a fan of that particular type of soup.
I'm just glad it isn't something more expensive; If it comes down to it, I can always find another copy of Spinball for cheap.

Anonymous Tue Jan 13 18:48:38 2015 No.2177894
File: 1.31 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11152.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Just putting this out there. A few summers ago I did a SVIDEO mod to my Gen 1 Genesis. The whole process wasn't difficult, and the parts were inexpensive. Anyone who doesnt have RGB abilities should consider this for better picture.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 15:11:01 2015 No.2179376 >>2177894 I can attest to this. The only difficult part was getting the wire lengths right and threading them properly through the RF shield.

Anonymous Wed Jan 14 15:31:02 2015 No.2179394
File: 108 KB, 400x680, genesisCXA1145 svideomod.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2177894
>>2179376
>>2177894
this, here's a easy schematic for model 1/2, double check your video encoder first though
CXA1145P and CXA1145M for model 1 and 2, respectively
you can find others easily via google for other chips.

i've modded my model 1, model 2 and i'm waiting on more svideo jacks to mod my 32x

FYI, modding your 32x for svideo removes composite output, i'm going to install a switch to preserve it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 15:32:02 2015 No.2179397 File: 37 KB, 1101x527, dcvga.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2179394 i've modded my dreamcast for vga as well 1/2

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 15:33:59 2015 No.2179403 File: 2.45 MB, 3264x2448, 20130815_120251.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2179397 2/2 i put it in the never-used broadband adapter space. i also ran out of perfboard and had to make my own lil guy out of protoboard

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 15:38:35 2015 No.2179412 >>2179397 those diodes are 1N4148, super common, not sure why it isn't on that picture... or why i saved a picture in whateverthefuck language that is

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 21:37:36 2015 No.2179935 File: 1.34 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11148.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2177894 here;s some comparisons. <Composite Video (rainbow-y water)

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 21:38:47 2015 No.2179936 File: 1.24 MB, 2048x1536, SDC11150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2179935 <S-video. Tested on 50" Rear Projection Tube TV

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 22:25:34 2015 No.2179990 File: 31 KB, 600x450, dc mod.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Finished my Agetec joystick mod this afternoon. For my first mod, it didn't go at all like expected.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 22:29:09 2015 No.2179994 >>2179990 I like the colours.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Wed Jan 14 22:36:48 2015 No.2180007 >>2179403 Is that magnet wire? Been thinking about buying a small spindle for modding/repair work that may come up; That and possibly some cheap chinese perfboard. How is it?

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 22:39:44 2015 No.2180013 >>2179994 Thank you.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 23:16:01 2015 No.2180079 >>2180007 Is there a benefit to using magnet wire? Over kynar wire?

Kya !kDashing02 Wed Jan 14 23:31:30 2015 No.2180094

>>2180079
Any electronics work I've done so far has been done with some UTP from some old CAT5 I had laying around, so I'm not authority on wire.

One benefit that I've seen is not needing to strip it; Just take a soldering iron to it and the insulation shrinks back.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 23:33:08 2015 No.2180096 >>2180094 Ya I saw the guy at gametechus useing it in one of his videos. So I guess it's just a convince thing. I never had a problem with kynar so guess no need to get rid of it.

Kya !kDashing02 Wed Jan 14 23:40:07 2015 No.2180107

>>2180096
That's where I saw it as well.

Just seems really convenient, and it's not like I have any wire laying around currently that would go unused.
And the bits that I do have laying around are an absolute bitch to strip with the beyond terrible wire stripper I have. I have no room to complain for how cheap it was, but still. A better soldering iron would probably be nice too, but I knew what "quality" I'd be getting when I got it from RS.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 14 23:45:54 2015 No.2180118 Ya my next big purchase is some hot tweezers for smd caps. I do need a better wire stripper though. Mine is also a cheap pos but I just can't seem to get rid of it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 00:36:45 2015 No.2180192 >>2180118 i've gotten really attached to some of my tools, most of them shitty. i've just had them so long

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 00:50:21 2015 No.2180215
File: 1.28 MB, 2592x1944, 14012015114.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I got a nes that looks like this on every game, I already changed the capacitors and that only fixed some interference waves, but the graphical glitches are still there.

Could it be a bad PPU?

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 00:51:38 2015 No.2180218 File: 1.38 MB, 2592x1944, 14012015111.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180215 another game, same problem

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 00:58:40 2015 No.2180228 File: 2.85 MB, 2592x1944, 14012015115.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180215 And this is how Super Mario Bros looks, the game freezes at this point.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 01:20:32 2015 No.2180272 Can anyone help me get Super Mario RPG working on my Aus [PAL] S-NES? It doesn't work on my converter and I heard you have mod the system, what is the easiest way to get SMRPG and other NA games to work?

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 01:33:13 2015 No.2180290 >>2180272 60$ snes on ebay? >pref : not pal*****************************************************************************************************************************************

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 01:54:26 2015 No.2180306 >>2180290 Yeah then buy a bulky step down converter and own an ugly looking NA system. Also I said get it to work on my PAL S-NES

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 01:58:09 2015 No.2180313 >>2180215 Buek Huht is a classic

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 03:26:19 2015 No.2180376 >>2180306 You have to mod the cartridge for it to work on a pal system and even then it isn't guaranteed to work ,get a super famicom or US Snes and ditch that peice of pal shit

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 05:20:06 2015 No.2180463

>>2180215
Have you tried bending the pins, bad contact could cause this? I had a similar problem once after I bent the pins back all sprites would be unaligned and fucked up. I left a cart pushed down for a week and it was solved. Maybe this is the first thing you should check

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 06:59:23 2015 No.2180523

>>2180007
>>2180079
>>2180094
>>2180096
>>2180107
Yeah I love it, no extra bulk and easy to strip. Holds bends better too for nicer routing. Just don't buy the orange stuff, you need to scrape off the enamel coating; can't melt it.

I'm the dreamcast vga mod guy.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Thu Jan 15 10:03:45 2015 No.2180708 >>2180523 Is there a specific thickness you'd suggest? I'm looking at spindles of it on ebay and there's all types of thicknesses, lengths and temp ratings.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:26:48 2015 No.2180727 Did anyone have schematics on how to put a led in a Dreamcast controller? I want to put a led to light the VMU

itsthatguyonvr at gmail Thu Jan 15 10:35:08 2015 No.2180738
File: 2.80 MB, 4128x2322, 20150115_102830.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2180708
i use 20/22 and 24/26 AWG for different applications. i'm not even sure the exact gauge since i've snagged like fifty feet of each from work two or three years ago, still working on using it all.

bad game for scale.

i used the thinner 24/26AWG for my dreamcast vga mod, but if i was doing an svideo mod i'd use the thicker stuff, or just ribbon cable since i have a million feet of it.

itsthatguyonvr at gmail Thu Jan 15 10:40:18 2015 No.2180746
File: 269 KB, 800x617, dc_connector_pinout[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2180738
oh, and because i don't have the spindle i don't know the heat rating.

the general rule is RED can be burned/melted off using your iron/solder and the ORANGE needs to be scrapped off using a razor/hobby knife.

never use the orange for something like hobby modding, it's not worth the hassle of scrapping that shit off, if i was winding my own ferrite core coils i'd use orange to prevent shorts where it rubs against each other, but that's about it.

>>2180727
you can pull +5v from the controller plug. i couldn't find a pinout of the vmu slot but there's gotta be a source for 5v there too

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:42:09 2015 No.2180748 >>2180463 Ah, yes I did, in fact I did that before knowing about this problem, already tried with another 72 pin connector that is in perfect shape too and the same problem occurs, so the 72 pin connector is discarded.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:42:28 2015 No.2180749 >>2180746 No way to grab it directly from the controller pcb?

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:45:20 2015 No.2180753 >>2180748 If it's not the pin connector i would try to reflow the ppu connections.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:45:26 2015 No.2180756

>>2180748
Btw, yesterday I was able to make SMB to continue playing pass the initial screen (see: >>2180228) but the game was running so slow, and I mean like you're watching a .ppt presentation on a 386, also the screen wasn't able to scroll at all, shit was weird as fuck.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:47:15 2015 No.2180758 >>2180756 Yeah try to reflow all the processors then. You may also want to clean the place where the 72 pin is "plugged" to the motherboard.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:52:09 2015 No.2180760 >>2179412 danish, most likely

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 10:54:15 2015 No.2180762 >>2180746 >>2180738 Have you tried 30 awg or you think that's too small? I ask because I use 30 awg kynar.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:08:04 2015 No.2180771 I'm getting this weird screen on my Famicom, tried cleaning the slot. Also I'm getting radio fm signals when I should hear the audio of the Famicom.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Thu Jan 15 11:08:24 2015 No.2180773 >>2180738 Makes sense. I'll probably just pick up something between the two and run with it. Thanks.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:09:15 2015 No.2180776 File: 810 KB, 2048x1536, 1420994912514.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180771 forgot pic

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:09:37 2015 No.2180778

>>2180215
If it's not the pins then something could be bad on the PPU address bus, perhaps on the the lower LSB bits.
Maybe U2 74LS373 is faulty or has broken solder joints.

>>2180272
Either mod the game or install SuperCIC in your SNES.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/super-mario-rpg-on-a-pal-snes/

This also applies to any other SA-1 game.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:20:10 2015 No.2180789 >>2180771 Clean it again and clean the cart too

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:48:13 2015 No.2180830 >>2180789 Just did that. Still doesn't work

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 11:54:29 2015 No.2180839 >>2180830 Check if the inside is clean, and try with another rf cable (well another rf box at least). If still not working solder joints are probably broken.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:06:04 2015 No.2180843 >>2180749 well, you know that the cable carries +5v... and the cable terminates inside the controller... so... i just couldn't find a schematic of the controller pcb or a pinout of the vmu connector in google quick grab your DMM and find it!

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:14:37 2015 No.2180853

>>2180762
i used to use 30 gauge when i did ps2 modchip installs back in the days of 44+ wires for noswap booting!

side story:
i used to be an official modchip installer for ps2newz and a moderator on the forums.
my name was prevch

man has time flown the fuck by...

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:20:52 2015 No.2180861 >>2180853 You ever use magnet wire? I know 30 awg Kynar generally isn't a problem. I was more wondering if the 30awg magnet wire was a nono.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:26:18 2015 No.2180868 >>2180839 Did both, still nothing. Which solder joints are you talking about? I'll make a pic of the Mobo in any case.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:33:56 2015 No.2180878 >>2180868 Well at first check that all the condensers are working then gently reheat the pads of the ppu and cpu, that's how I would do for an NES. Pics are appreciated :)

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:37:00 2015 No.2180881 File: 150 KB, 751x597, dc_diagram1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180843 I found the 5v point! And then found this wonderful pic, I'm putting it here for future generations. Thanks anon-sama

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:44:26 2015 No.2180892 File: 815 KB, 2048x1536, DSC_0001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Underneath mobo

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:50:14 2015 No.2180894 >>2180892 At first try to reflow the contacts between the main board and the rf/power board

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 12:53:11 2015 No.2180896 >>2180861 yeah i used 30awg with the ps2 mods back in the day. i did find it was harder to work with, being tiny as fuck. but totally acceptable as long as you aren't using it for power or ground wires >>2180881 nice, saved.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 13:03:55 2015 No.2180908 File: 675 KB, 2048x1536, DSC_0002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180894 You mean this?

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 13:07:05 2015 No.2180909 >>2180908 Yup

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 13:16:05 2015 No.2180916 File: 577 KB, 2048x1536, DSC_0003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180909 Just to be sure. This is how the contacts look.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 13:25:52 2015 No.2180920 >>2180218 Let's not get ahead of ourselves, there would be more problems if that game worked correctly.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 14:00:41 2015 No.2180945 >>2180908 >>2180916 Please focus your camera, these images look like resized thumbnails.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 14:35:38 2015 No.2180998 >>2180916 That's the spot but I can't really make out if there's something wrong from your picture

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 14:52:42 2015 No.2181031 File: 75 KB, 800x600, IMG_20150115_204929.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2180945 Sorry phone doesn't focus that well

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 14:54:53 2015 No.2181037 >>2181031 Is it rust on the three last ones one the right?

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 15:12:55 2015 No.2181063 >>2181037 Not sure. Removed it anyway. Gonna test it and see if it makes any difference

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 15:24:34 2015 No.2181090 >>2181063 Still didn't work.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 16:06:07 2015 No.2181139

I'm in the process of modding a pair of N64 consoles. Wonder if anyone can help me with two questions.

What is the paste that Nintendo used on the heatsink? Where can I get it? It's not like the grease I use on computer heatsinks and it seems like it's needed since there's a bit of a gap between the heatsink and the chip.

And I want to replace the screws used on the heatsink. They're limited torque screws and I've already stripped 4 of them. 1 is stuck and I'm working on getting that sob out. I figure maybe some brass coated screws with grease will be a good replacement?

I know those problems would be fixed by getting some heatsinks used on ram but I want to keep the original heatsink for now.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 16:12:58 2015 No.2181148

>>2181139
Also I have a few N64s ranging from a launch models to colored variants. (haven't found a demo unit yet.) On the early models there's some kind of oil around the heatsinks. I know these are untouched consoles so I'm not sure what it was there for. It's on both sides of the heatsink not just were the paste is. Almost seems like they didn't want the heatsink on the chip sticking to the larger heatsink. But on the newer revisions there seems to be none. Not sure what to make of that.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 16:17:59 2015 No.2181157 >>2181037 That stuff is just flux residue, it's all over old electronics. It doesn't affect anything. >>2181063 Get a multimeter, see if you're getting power.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 16:40:33 2015 No.2181182 >>2181157 It's not the power that doesn't work I'm getting pic related everytime I power on the Famicom>>2180776

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 16:54:42 2015 No.2181203

>>2181182
I see, I didn't read up that far.

It's consistent across all games? That might be memory related. Try pushing down some of the chips on the board while it's running. I don't know if it'll work on a fami, but in arcade boards, you can narrow down a possible loose connection this way.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 18:29:01 2015 No.2181331 >>2181203 Unfortunately, I only have Dragon Buster right now. I'll look up if I can put the cart in while it's on.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 18:47:22 2015 No.2181354

>>2181331
Putting the cart in after it's on shouldn't work, but you shouldn't need to do that. Just get it running without the shell and prod at the chips a bit.

Again, I've only done this with arcade boards, so I don't know if it'll have any positive effect in a famicom, but it shouldn't hurt it unless you're somehow really wet and dripping on it as it's on.

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 19:27:04 2015 No.2181426 >>2180758 This was the problem, I cleaned that part where the 72 pin is plugged and it fixed the problem, thanks anon!

>>	Anonymous Thu Jan 15 19:28:20 2015 No.2181428 >>2181354 >Just get it running without the shell and prod at the chips a bit The cart or the Famicom? Because the cart has no holes nor screws.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 19:40:03 2015 No.2181441

>>2181428
The famicom. Since you have no other games for testing, might as well rule out some problems with the system. Just a little pressure on the non-conductive parts to see if there's a change in picture. You may have to restart it while pressing on them if this just freezes the system.

As for the cart, it has to have some way to open. I have no personal experience with them, but they can't just not open. It's not cost-effective to make them like that.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 23:03:15 2015 No.2181663

>>2181148
>>2181139
Well I found out laptops and GPUs commonly use thermal pads and there's quite a lot to choose from. Just need the right thickness I guess. Good to know.
Now I just need to find out what screws to use and how to get this stripped screw out.

Anonymous Thu Jan 15 23:24:02 2015 No.2181675

>>2181441
Famicom carts are notoriously a bitch to open. They have little plastic clips inside that hold them together (well, many/most are this way). You can look up online how to open them, but it is risky and you should count on a high chance of breaking one of the little tabs.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 16 05:58:34 2015 No.2181975 File: 649 KB, 300x300, 1416215296496.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2181426 No problem bro

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 16 08:29:51 2015 No.2182072 >>2180118 >Ya my next big purchase is some hot tweezers for smd caps random question, but did you buy some on ebay yesterday? are you from ohio? because i'm that seller, and those smd tweezers are sweet. small world opportunity. offtopicsage

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 16 14:56:36 2015 No.2182439 File: 58 KB, 800x600, IMG_20150116_204915.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2181441 Was looking around and saw this, is that normal?

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 16 15:37:19 2015 No.2182486 >>2182439 >>2181441 >>2181675 Also I was playing the the game but it froze on the third area/castle twice. I'm going to buy another Fami game and see if that works.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 16 16:16:32 2015 No.2182551 File: 886 KB, 3264x1836, 20150116_122238.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Although its not that big a deal, I just finished this. All the online guides were crap, nobody ever showed how they cut the damn things. N64 import games here I come!

Anonymous Fri Jan 16 16:34:18 2015 No.2182592

>>2182439
the glue? yeah that's normal. it's holding the coils from separating/changing shape/loosening which would result in different induction values. don't piss off old man Henry and leave them be!

definitely get another fami game to test it with.

>>2182551
the best part is that it doesn't need to look good to work!

Anonymous Fri Jan 16 18:00:56 2015 No.2182762

My fat PS2's making really violent sounding whirring noises whenever it reads the old blue-label CD-ROM discs. I know PS2 CD-ROM disc read speed is a lot faster than DVD, but it almost sounds like it's scraping against something. The goofy thing is that it reads them fine, never had any disc read errors, but I'm worried that it might be damaging the disc when being read, so I tend to not bother. PSX discs and DVDs -- both games and movies -- both read fine, though.

Is it a sign of the laser starting to go or is it something physical that can be adjusted? I guess I could just switch to my slim PS2 but I'm not a big fan of it.

I realize this isn't retro but I can't really ask this question elsewhere

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 17 02:01:09 2015 No.2183453 >>2182551 jesus. you cut off WAY too much material. you didn't even need to cut anything! you just use a grinding bit or a file and flatten the nubs. that's it. D:

Anonymous Sat Jan 17 14:36:47 2015 No.2184147

>>2182762
There is a white thingie with a magnet that keeps the disc on its intended place and helps making it spin, its located just above the disc drive.

Well, sometimes that thing will lose its grip on certain types of discs and it will just spin on top of the disk without making the disk spin along with it, grinding the inner ring in the process, you can probably notice that if you look at your disk.

After a few times it will do make the disk spin successfully but the annoying noise will still be there, that shit happens on my ps2 fat too, but only with backups on Pleomax discs, legit ps2 games are unaffected.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 07:34:01 2015 No.2185424 Is there any way to make a NES zapper work with a LCD TV? From what I saw it seems impossible but is there some obscure trick that would only be know here ?

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 07:38:36 2015 No.2185428 >>2185424 It won't work unless you're using some sort of emulation, such as on the Wii.

Anonymous Sun Jan 18 07:47:57 2015 No.2185437

>>2185424
You would have to reprogram the code in whatever game you play to adjust to the lag inherent in using a digital TV. Different systems will have different amounts of lag. Analog CRT's not only have significantly less lag, but they all have the exact same amount of lag between different CRT's, meaning that the gun can work with any analog CRT without having to adjust to different lags.

This guy has a video that explains how the NES Zapper works:

http://retrowaretv.com/the-way-games-work-nes-zapper/

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 08:38:10 2015 No.2185476 >>2185424 >>2185437 The zapper also has a 15khz filter. No way that you can get it to work with an 31khz VGA CRT feed with an plain linedoubled signal from the NES, unless you modify it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 12:51:59 2015 No.2185797 >>2185476 So technically a mod is possible?

Anonymous Sun Jan 18 12:56:47 2015 No.2185806

>>2177894
man, I'd rather just buy an RGB-Component converter box and get scart cables for all available systems. I'd love for genesis to accept s-video, but needing to mod it just ain't worth it.

on a similar note, is it possible to get anything better than composite out of the NES without modding?

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 13:21:26 2015 No.2185840 I"m a complete repair newbie. Does anyone have a good video showing how to change the battery in the Gameboy Pokemon games? I have a vague idea of what to do but I don't want to mangle my games.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 13:28:59 2015 No.2185852 >>2185797 To make it work with non-15khz CRTs and games that use the classic lightbox detection, i'm not sure how well Mechanized Attack will work with linedoubler+VGA CRT.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 13:34:25 2015 No.2185860 File: 9 KB, 300x289, 41Yhh5BmiuL._SX300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I just bought a new snes controller and the buttons feel kind of shitty Would it be worth it to buy one of these "repair kits" on ebay?

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 15:00:42 2015 No.2186012 >>2185852 I mean I'm not using a vga crt but an LCD with a rca hook up, will it still be working?

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 15:07:31 2015 No.2186023 >>2186012 No. LCD doesn't strobe but emit weak light compared to CRTs.

Anonymous Sun Jan 18 17:33:59 2015 No.2186175

This might not be the right place to ask, but where would be a good place to find replacement cd-cases for dreamcast? I bought Soul Caliber recently disc-only because I had an empty case with manual I got from a friend, and I forgot how much disrepair that case was in. I'd like to transfer over the backing and manual, but I don't know where to begin looking for an alike case without using a donor.

Anonymous Sun Jan 18 17:51:27 2015 No.2186201

>>2185860
try cleaning buttons, those rubber pads and the board itself first(and outer shell if its dirty), if that wont help then yes.

Only problem with them is that those replacement rubber pads are kinda click-y/hard to press, while originals are mushy/soft, but they do get better(or worse depending which one you prefer) after while.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 18:13:07 2015 No.2186227 How to deal with CD-based consoles and FMV Stuttering? I can´t play final Fantasy X this way....and its a farily new CD lens.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 18 20:47:08 2015 No.2186473 Can anyone help me find a laser for a Model 2 Sega Saturn (MK-80000A)? It has disc read errors all over the place while playing stuff like Shining Force III, it's an old machine so I figure I'll just replace the optical pick-up...

Anonymous Sun Jan 18 22:21:06 2015 No.2186616

>>2185424
No. There is no way to get a zapper to work on an LCD.
Yes. As others have posted there are obscure tricks to get it to work that are only known here. They only work if your dad is a Navy Seal with over 300 confirmed kills who works at Nintendo.

Anonymous Mon Jan 19 09:25:36 2015 No.2187265

I just got a famicom in the mail, really nice condition, no yellowing, not many scratches, looks like it's been stored cleanly. Gave it a once over to make sure it wasn't disgusting in the crevices and found half a tiny translucent shell from an insect in the cartridge slot.

Shaking the console I can't hear or see anything at the vents. I'm going to open it when I get home regardless. I've heard some horror stories:

What are my chances of finding Santo Bugito in there?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 12:19:39 2015 No.2187496 >>2185840 >Get a hakko 808 otherwise you'll be in over your head.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 12:27:54 2015 No.2187504 >>2187496 You don't need an expensive iron and you definitely don't need a solder sucker like that.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 17:38:12 2015 No.2188017 File: 119 KB, 864x648, Famicom .jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2187265 Update: Opened, cleaned it out. Dust only. There was much rejoicing. Pic related

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 17:41:11 2015 No.2188020 >>2188017 Looks pristine congrats

Anonymous Mon Jan 19 17:53:46 2015 No.2188052

>>2188020
Ah, the potato cam and bright light makes it look better than it is- it's a little cream-coloured at the very front, but certainly the best I've seen in a while for $20!

Now i just need to wait until my carts get here to find out if the thing functions!

Anonymous Mon Jan 19 18:15:07 2015 No.2188106 [DELETED]

File: 733 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0141[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I am working on putting a Component to HDMI transcoder in my SNES. Since many models of the SNES output native Component video (240p), it's a simple mod, just trying to get it all to fit is the challenge

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 21:53:22 2015 No.2188525 Guys, I have some stripped screws in this gameboy I'm trying to take apart. Its the screws that hold the headphone jack in place. I am having a real hard time getting them out....any ideas?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 21:55:37 2015 No.2188527 >>2188106 I think you mean RGB, not Component? Component (YPbPr) did not even exist back when the SNES was around.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 21:58:44 2015 No.2188537 >>2188106 That's not component You're taking un amped rgb signals Do you have any idea what you're doing?

Anonymous Mon Jan 19 22:08:15 2015 No.2188551 [DELETED]

File: 549 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0133[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2188527

>2188537

Actually the SNES can output YPbPr natively.

Early SNES systems have two different encoders. a BA6592F or the S-ENC...both of which output 240p Component (Not RGB). Pr comes from Pin 1, and Pb comes from 24, and you can grab Y from pin 7 on the AV out.

That is how I got Component Video out of the SNES, and fed it through an HDMI transcoder for 240p over HDMI which seems to have better compatibility over 240p over Component on HDTVs.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 22:25:30 2015 No.2188563 >>2188551 And it works?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 23:28:44 2015 No.2188646 >>2188551 >>2188106 >both of which output 240p Component (Not RGB) All SNES/Sufami's before the remodeled SNES 2 do RGB.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 19 23:35:06 2015 No.2188659 >>2188646 I googled a bit and seems this guy is talking out his rear. From what I gathered some chips do output ypbpr but no one is posting any kind of schematic and really doubt that signal doesn't need to be at least amped.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 20 16:55:08 2015 No.2189543

Is there anything in particular that could be causing a Model 1 Genesis VA7 to randomly (and quite often) register an up input on the d-pad of a 6 button controller?

It doesn't seem to be happening with an old beat up 3 button, but the 6 button works fine on my model 3.

Anonymous Tue Jan 20 17:48:41 2015 No.2189626
File: 2.67 MB, 640x360, Untitled.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I don't know if this is really a repair question, but I got a copy of Final Fantasy the other day and it acts really strangely. I cleaned the pins and everything, took the cart apart and looked for anything obvious on the circuit board, everything looks good. It can work fine, because I played it for about an hour yesterday with no problem, then it started to degrade to the point where it was unplayable. The music would fuck up, it would freeze, the title screen would freeze, sometime I would start it and immediately be at the world map without actually selecting anything, weird audio and graphical glitches, etc. I tried to record some of it but it's somewhat behaving itself right now.

I notice that, if left for a while on one song, the music will start to fuck up. Missing or wrong notes, sometimes it will play two songs on top of eachother, shit like that.

I've never had any NES game fuck up so inconsistently before. I'm guessing it's something that can't be fixed, but I'd be curious to know if anyone has any idea why it acts so weird.

Anonymous Tue Jan 20 18:00:46 2015 No.2189643

>>2189626
>looked for anything obvious on the circuit board, everything looks good
How often did i heard this from people about circuit boards that had some dry solder joints, invisible for inexperienced eyes.

>I'm guessing it's something that can't be fixed
Almost all ICs used for and in the NES are DIP.
I consider this more fixable than ultra fine SMD stuff.

No other NES game act strangely after running a few hours?
Do your system and carts usually have a good contact or are you struggling often to make it work?

Anonymous Tue Jan 20 18:07:52 2015 No.2189659

>>2189643
>No other NES game act strangely after running a few hours?

No, not that I've ever noticed.

>Do your system and carts usually have a good contact or are you struggling often to make it work?

Since I've rebent the contacts on the 72-pin connector, all my other games work fine pretty much every time.

I've been playing it for about 30 minutes now and every once in a while the music or graphics start to fuck up. If I pause or chance screens it fixes it. I don't know if that means anything.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 20 18:57:16 2015 No.2189757 >>2189543 Check the wire for shorts.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 20 19:00:26 2015 No.2189763 >>2189659 Scrub the game contacts some more. If nothing, reflow the solder joints in the game.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 20 19:14:26 2015 No.2189798 >>2189757 I'll do that, but I really can't see that being the problem. It works perfectly fine on a different system, and moving the cable doesn't effect it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 20 19:24:07 2015 No.2189817 >>2189798 I can't really see this being anything other than a shorting problem if the only affect is the up button intermittently pressing.

Anonymous Tue Jan 20 20:01:32 2015 No.2189895
File: 32 KB, 800x540, BA6592F RGB to Component converter corrected.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2188659

google "easy SNES/SFC YUV Component video" which shows how to do it.

If you have a system with the S-ENC encoder, you don't need an amp, just wire up the jacks (grab luminance from the AV slot otherwise you have to use a resistor). If you have one with the BA6592F, you need to do a small transistor amp which is easy to build. You can save on parts by again grabbing Luminance from the av other wise you have to build another amp just for Y which the SNES has built in.

attached image is the circuit you need to build. Just focus on the output side.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 20 20:21:19 2015 No.2189941 >>2189817 I get a decent enough connection between the the console side of the cable and the controller's circuit board, but the solder work does look pretty shoddy. Gonna resolder the wires and check to see if that fixes it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 20 20:27:59 2015 No.2189954 >>2189895 I've google it and there's barely any info on it. I wouldn't trust it and I have no reason to try to get component from a snes.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Jan 20 22:06:30 2015 No.2190079

>>2189941
Reflowed, didn't work
Cleaned and made sure pads weren't shorting, didn't work
Removed wire where it connects to the board, didn't work
Checked connection to globtop, nothing
Broke connection to pin that goes into the board
Fixed said connection and now it works
I dun get it.

That said, it likely was just a frayed wire giving me trouble.

Anonymous Wed Jan 21 00:19:07 2015 No.2190341

>>2190079
>That said, it likely was just a frayed wire giving me trouble.

If it's weak enough to break, it's weak enough to cause problems.

I learned that from welding chairs in shop class, though you can't really test electronics by throwing them on a concrete floor.

>>	Anonymous Wed Jan 21 20:56:38 2015 No.2191804 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 05:21:41 2015 No.2194147 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 07:17:35 2015 No.2194197 >>2187496 The pads are freaking huge man. You could use like a branding iron and still do it...

Anonymous Fri Jan 23 13:39:24 2015 No.2194582

Do you guys still know if any stores offer to refurbish discs?
I was given a copy of MediEvil that always freezes after level one for a buck and was hoping to repair it, but Gamestop doesn't seem to offer the service anymore and the Play n Trade near me shut down.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 16:57:41 2015 No.2194827 I used to have an Xbox with all the older systems moded into. That shit was hot.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 17:18:58 2015 No.2194847 >>2179394 >>2177894 >>2179376 I removed the RF box and put my s-video connector there. Looks like it belongs there.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 17:19:59 2015 No.2194849 >>2179397 Why would you modify the dreamcast for VGA? Arent there already adapters for that, or have they gotten too expensive?

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Fri Jan 23 17:23:28 2015 No.2194852 >>2194849 You can get a cheap chinese cable for just over $10 if you want. However, if you're able to and have the required materials, why not do it yourself and internalize it rather than deal with extra cabling and the like?

Anonymous Fri Jan 23 17:36:01 2015 No.2194862

>>2188525

I don't know fuck about game repair and am just passing by. I repair vacuums for a living, and when that happens we either magnetize the fuck out of a screwdriver or on patricularly stubborn ones drill into the screw and pull it out that way. Of course, Inhave no idea how good of an idea this is on a Gameboy.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 18:52:28 2015 No.2194941 >>2194862 >magnetize the fuck out of a screwdriver You can just stick a magnet on the screwdriver. You can even buy magnets designed to fit on a screwdriver.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 21:30:54 2015 No.2195182 File: 52 KB, 470x359, 1421120162768.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I managed to get my hands on a 1.0 game shark for the GBA. Not the SP version. Anyone have a link for the software that came with this? Thanks in advance

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 22:32:20 2015 No.2195292 File: 81 KB, 690x604, 1420056692776.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2195182 Well shit, I tried cleaning the contacts with some alcohol and now it doesn't want to work

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 23 22:40:39 2015 No.2195304 >>2194582 Check a pawn shop They general do it

Anonymous Sat Jan 24 21:12:10 2015 No.2197202 [DELETED]

I have a question about my 7800. It may be a stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyway.

I'm using a coaxial cable and i keep getting a static/fuzzy picture. If i put pressure on the cable where it plugs into the console, the picture is clear, but I have to hold it like that. Obviously there is a bad connection. Eventually I'm going to have the composite mod done, until then would be safe to put aluminum foil on the end of the connector in hopes for a better connection. I know this trick sometimes works on old audio jacks

Anonymous Sat Jan 24 21:14:37 2015 No.2197205

I have a question about my 7800. It may be a stupid question, but I'm going to ask anyway.

I'm using a coaxial cable and i keep getting a static/fuzzy picture. If i put pressure on the cable where it plugs into the console, the picture is clear, but I have to hold it like that. Obviously there is a bad connection. Eventually I'm going to have the composite mod done, until then, is there a temporary fix for this?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 24 21:27:22 2015 No.2197221 >>2197205 Either the plug or the wire inside is worn out. You can buy a replacement plug and solder it on, it's just an rca style plug. Are you using a switch box or one of those rca to f adapters?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 24 21:38:27 2015 No.2197241 >>2197221 The cable is new and it does this with other cables. How hard is it to replace the plug? I've only done light soldering in the past (installing a modchip for my saturn and replacing a fuse on my sega cd. I'm using an RCA to F adapter.

Anonymous Sat Jan 24 22:02:14 2015 No.2197269

>>2197241
It's a new wire? I don't have a 7800, but on the 2600 the wire plugs into the system inside the case. Is that jack clean and making good contact?
I wouldn't replace the plug if it's a new cable, I just assumed it was the original one, but it still acts like it's not making a connection somewhere with that cable.

Anonymous Sat Jan 24 22:37:21 2015 No.2197338

>>2197269
The 7800 has a plug on the back like an NES. The jack is fine. Like i said, it does the same thing other rca cables ive tried. When i got the console, the jack from the original cable had broken off in the plug. I pulled it out with a pair of pliers and replaced the cable. It was fine for a while then it started getting fuzzy.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 24 23:50:03 2015 No.2197471 >>2197338 There must be something wrong with the jack on the system. It could be replaced, but it probably wouldn't be easy. Personally I'd just go for the composite mod on it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 02:12:15 2015 No.2197610 >>2197471 I know this may sound crazy, but would aluminum foil on the connector work? I know it sometimes works with audio jacks.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 03:31:31 2015 No.2197684 >>2197610 I don't see how it could hurt anything to try.

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 07:00:23 2015 No.2197794

I've been cleaning the shit out of my collection lately, so I'm tired of smelling Brasso and rubbing alcohol for awhile. Going to do some cases in the meantime with a magic eraser.

Anyone know if Goof Off will ruin game covers? I don't know whether it was EB or some other old store not around anymore, but one of them used to put the stickers on the label itself instead of the plastic cover of the case and it annoys me. I just don't want to ruin the paper cover itself over autism.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 07:03:37 2015 No.2197798 >>2197794 It will It stains the shit out of paper You're better off just slowly pealing it

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 07:05:56 2015 No.2197801 >>2197610 >>2197471 >>2197338 >>2197269 Rub the outside of the jack with some #0000 steel wool to polish away any tarnish. It sounds like there isn't good contact to the ground

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 07:05:59 2015 No.2197803

>>2197798
I was afraid of that. This stuff is a miracle worker on the plastic itself but I guess the stickers on paper will just have to ride out the test of time. I'm to paranoid to even peel at it and was hoping there would be something to take it off.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 07:07:24 2015 No.2197805 >>2197803 You could try he hair dryer trick to help with the pealing, but other then that, they're stuck on there until the glue drys up

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 09:33:04 2015 No.2197904
File: 2.78 MB, 2448x1632, heyhey hoohoo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

so i bought this pokemon crystal a couple of months ago and now testing it for the first time i notice that it wont save. I have changed the 3v battery twice its not the battery that's broken and i have also given it a thorough cleaning with alcohol.

the game runs perfectly, it just cant maintain a save

what do you guys thing the problem is

pic related, its the game

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 09:59:45 2015 No.2197932

>>2197904
Now you need a multimeter.

TP1 = SRAM Voltage
TP2 = Voltage after 10K resistor (R1)
TP3 = Battery Voltage
TP4 = Ground

I don't think that the exposed copper above the contacts are causing the problems as the game runs.

Measure the voltages between TP1-3 and TP4.
TP3 should be the battery voltage, must be more than 3V like about 3.10V
TP2 should be very close to the battery voltage, if not then there's a short near the 134a.
TP1 can be lower than that, a SRAM normally needs more than 2V to retain data.

If you still want to fix it blindly (like a dumb idiot) then reflowing SRAM, MBC3 and 134A might work but i highly doubt it.

It is also always better to solder the battery in, everything else is not reliable and will fail anyway, no matter much tape or glue you use.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 10:11:29 2015 No.2197946 >>2197932 thank you man, now all i need is a multimeter

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 15:17:50 2015 No.2198362

I have a Nintendo 64 I have been busting my butt to fix. It powers on fine, but I get no Audio or video. I have used different cables, reflowed solder joints, used different expansion packs/jumper packs, even ones I know work in other systems, but no dice.

None of the caps are leaking or bad, that I know of. I know they aren't leaking.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 16:17:54 2015 No.2198454 >>2198362 I suspect it's the C15 Capacitor. It's not giving me a charge when I test it with my voltmeter

Anonymous Sun Jan 25 18:57:20 2015 No.2198724

>>2197684
Well, the foil didn't work. If anything it completely blocked the connection. So I decided to take the console apart completely. I tried cleaning the plug as best I could, still nothing. I even found the adjustment knob and tried that, but didn't fix the issue. Eventually, I noticed the plug itself was bent slightly. I carefully straightened it out a bit with some pliers and now it works perfectly. So problem was the plug had a poor connection internally. Thank you guys for your assistance.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 19:00:23 2015 No.2198735 >>2198724 I keep saying "plug". What I meant was "outlet", where the cable plugs into.

>>	Anonymous Sun Jan 25 19:40:51 2015 No.2198794 >>2194849 >>2194852 Kya you took the words right out of my mouth. Plus, it's fun

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 16:19:23 2015 No.2200438 File: 35 KB, 540x800, RGB-to-YPbPr-Circuit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] bumping with a tg-16 RGB>Component schematic

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 21:05:16 2015 No.2201127 Just got a cheap Genesis 1 at a flea market. Where can I find a non-shitty power cable that won't destroy my Genesis? AV cables are also needed, unless Genesis 2 power would work.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 21:07:17 2015 No.2201128 >>2201127 Either look at fleamarkets for power adapters. Otherwise pay like $20-$30 for them on ebay. The SEGA ones tend to be cheap. I always buy Nintendo power adapters when I see them. All the 3rd party power adapters I've seen are trash.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 21:10:36 2015 No.2201134 >>2201127 What >>2201128 said, start looking in those adapter bins. You might also find one that works with it that was made for something else.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 22:04:43 2015 No.2201263 >>2201134 So as long as it fits, voltage is right, and etc. It'll work and not cause harm?

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 22:06:21 2015 No.2201268 >>2201263 You need the correct plug with the correct polarity. They're like $15 shipped on ebay if you really can't find one.

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 22:43:46 2015 No.2201348 >>2197932 >>2197904 This pretty much Don't just tape a battery in. Undo the old one and put a new one in

>>	Anonymous Mon Jan 26 22:47:31 2015 No.2201358 >>2201263 Yes, it needs to be 9 volts dc and 1.2 amps or higher. That's 1200 mAh, though a little lower will probably work and higher doesn't matter.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 08:45:11 2015 No.2202043 >>2201127 >>2201128 >>2201134 >>2201263 >>2201358 >>2201268 >You need the correct plug with the correct polarity. make sure tip is NEGATIVE for model 1 genesis

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 10:59:43 2015 No.2202175 anyone know of a decent soldering iron

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 11:10:34 2015 No.2202196 >>2202175 Depends what you want to do with it, if you just want to solder things from time to time a basic iron with a small tip would do the trick and you can get one for less than 20 bucks.

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 11:22:12 2015 No.2202214

>>2202175
i use a xytronic LF-1680. it's a fantastic mid-level iron with smd tweezers. pic related.

but i do a lot of soldering and use the tweezers fairly often.

for basic console modding, etc, you can get away with a less expensive iron, the cheapest decent one i found on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230945307242

good xytronic name, variable wattage and it comes with a perfect tip for console modding, not too big not too small.

i'm kinda a xytronic fanboy, but anything similar is perfect for casual soldering.

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 11:54:10 2015 No.2202247

>>2176501
i would love to mod old systems if i had the time. but i really dont

i use emulators and played Super mario NES on my Flatscreen. man the picture look so clear it was amazing. i have many more to test but all i need is a 16 ft USB cord to connect to my pc so i can play comfortably. until then im just wainting -_-

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 11:57:42 2015 No.2202253 >>2202214 You say pic related... But wurr da pic, playa?

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:04:20 2015 No.2202259 File: 36 KB, 750x600, 2d9dc7769b5fb34eeac16fe872d017c7[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2202214 >>2202253 not enough coffee this morning, i guess.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:07:27 2015 No.2202263 >>2202175 Hakko 888 is really nice. Pricy but very well made.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:19:36 2015 No.2202270 >>2202263 >Hakko 888 i always liked hakko irons, except... god damn... it looks like a fucking toy. i can't use something my 17mo son will look at and want to play with.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:28:44 2015 No.2202278 >>2202270 It's like that so you know it's ESD protected. Most tools are that color if they have proper ESD protection. The yellow and blue.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:40:37 2015 No.2202293 >>2202278 Still looks like a toy. Is the yellow/blue thing supposed to be a standard thing? Because nothing at my work is annoyingly yellow and blue and our anti-static stuff is all pink.

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 12:47:58 2015 No.2202301

>>2202293
I guess it's a standard. A lot of companies use it. Wiha, 3m, etc...
The Hakko stuff looks about as professional as you can get. Least to me. The thing is built very well. Really didn't cut corners anywhere.

I mean if you're buying a solder iron because of looks only I don't know what to tell you. Good luck I guess?

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 13:02:03 2015 No.2202313

>>2202301
>I mean if you're buying a solder iron because of looks only I don't know what to tell you. Good luck I guess?

valid point.

if my lf-1680 died on me i wouldn't count OUT a hakko just because the looks, they are GREAT irons, that's for sure.

i really must be a xytronic fanboy because i have nothing bad to say about them haha

side note, i just googled 'xytronic vs hakko' and the first few results are the LF-1680 vs the 888
results are the same for both irons, they're great.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 13:12:39 2015 No.2202327 >>2202043 How can I know that? I found a listing for a cheap jaguar adapter and the description also says it would work on a gen 1

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 13:14:49 2015 No.2202332 >>2202313 Hakko has a lot of tip choices. Did they compare any of those or the tweezers? Only thing I've seen is a weller and hakko tweezers comparison. Both were equally good and have different tip options. Very pricy too.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 13:16:40 2015 No.2202338 File: 22 KB, 650x180, fetc.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2202327 on the adapter, you'll find one of these symbols.

>>	Anonymous Tue Jan 27 21:05:58 2015 No.2203080 Can anyone recommend me some good paint to use if I want to repaint my SP? Also, any ideas for where to look for broken consoles/video game accessories? I unfortunately bought the "front light'' SP

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 22:37:28 2015 No.2203213

>>2202327
It will say on the adapter. If you are handy with a soldering iron you could cut off the tip it comes with and solder on a new one, and change the polarity in the process.
You can buy ac adaper tips on ebay or Mouser and even at radioshack, if they are still in business.

Anonymous Tue Jan 27 22:41:17 2015 No.2203220

>>2203080
I would say just get a new shell on ebay. It's not that hard to change the shell on the sp, unlike the ds lite.
As for finding broken game systems and accessories, ask at thrift stores or check the dumpster if you have a retro game store, you can also buy large lots on ebay, buy it's not the cheapest way to find that stuff.

Anonymous Wed Jan 28 22:23:26 2015 No.2205038
File: 2.23 MB, 1360x2120, Game-Boy-Color-Yellow.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2203220

I just had a great idea to make it like my original gameboy color, with the mustard yellow. I didn't see that color online.

The lack of a backlight is killing me. Wish I would have known there were different models.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 02:27:27 2015 No.2207015 bump

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 11:27:21 2015 No.2207547

I modded my wii with dios mios to play gamecube games

I had been using an older version of dmtoolbox (0.1) for a while, but I just got the newer version (0.3) and when I scanned it this was the result: http://virusscan.jotti.org/en/scanresult/c80846f367de47a3631980d09110d4894f010744/9436b69b96998772151cd367811a73303743130a

it doesn't report that for version 0.1

I know 1 out of 22 might just be a false positive. but I'm still paranoid.
has anyone else used it? Is it safe?

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 13:35:52 2015 No.2207707 >>2202338 I found a Sega adapter that's 9v but 1.2amps and a positive tip. This won't work will it?

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 13:35:59 2015 No.2207708
File: 56 KB, 600x400, Erfdw4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Does anyone know if the Sharp Twin Famicom will work on US CRT televisions without modification? I know Japan is NTSC, but I'm not sure about the AC adapter and all that will work with US electrical outlets or if the voltage is different etc.
I really want to get one eventually... I'd get someone to RGB mod it if I ever get a PVM/BVM or a Framemeister.

I've watched some Youtube videos about hooking an original Famicom up to a US TV, and they said it needs to be on channel 45 1/3 or something weird like that and it made a loud annoying, constant hum. My CRT is recently made (for CRTs at least) and doesn't have UHF/VHF knobs or anything like that so I dunno how I'd get it to play on channel 45 1/3 or whatever it was (I wasn't even aware that you could turn to a fraction of a channel and I assume only older CRTs are capable of doing this). The television has the usual inputs for US CRTs and has S-Video.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 13:37:30 2015 No.2207712 >>2207707 Oh wow. Nevermind I read it backwards. Thanks for the help

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 13:40:18 2015 No.2207717 >>2207708 Sharp Famicom twin works just fine on a USA CRT, it doesn't have RF it has composite. I have a universal AC adapter and it works just fine for me, i've been using mine for quite awhile now

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 13:40:29 2015 No.2207718 Anyone got idea what laser unit atari jaguar use

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 14:03:07 2015 No.2207752

>>2207717
Have you found the low pass filter (that's only found on Twin Famicoms) muffles the music noticeably? I've heard others complain about it. I know that removing it is relatively easy, but I'm not very confident with my soldering skills (or I guess desoldering?).

Honestly I'd like to get all the mods Drakon did to his Twin Famicom explained here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/213030-modified-sharp-twin-famicom/
RGB mod, controller port mod, modding the cable to come out of the top of the controller NES style rather than the side and removing the low pass filter on the audio. I sure as hell wouldn't hire Drakon to do it though. He seems to understand some of this stuff pretty well, but I'd rather not pay like five times the worth of the console itself and wait a year for a shoddily put together hot glue mess.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 14:04:50 2015 No.2207754 File: 2.86 MB, 709x300, IT'S HAPPENING.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2207752 >Drakon

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 14:17:38 2015 No.2207779

>>2207754
I know how much he's reviled (probably entirely rightfully so). I didn't mean to cause a shitstorm by bringing him up, I just haven't seen anyone else do some of the mods he did to his Twin Famicom. I wouldn't pay him a cent though because he seems like a general fuckface, but at least he was nice enough to explain how he did some of his Twin Famicom mods (such as adding 3.6k ohm resistors to the Twin Famicom controllers so they work with extension cables: http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?25046-Twin-Famicom-Modded-Control-Pad)), so now others can do the mod themselves or hire someone more competent than him to do it (i.e. basically anyone).

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:20:27 2015 No.2207902 Does the s-video modified genesis still needs the composite cable to output the s-video signal?

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:25:41 2015 No.2207914 Maybe I'm Google-retarded but I can't seem to find out what battery a copy of Shining Force for Genesis takes to save. Anyone know? Can I buy it at Walgreens?

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:26:29 2015 No.2207915

>>2207902
...wot?

If you mod a genesis for svideo you pull the luma and chroma off the video encoder chip, amplify it and terminate it at an svideo jack (or hardwire to a cable, i guess)

you'll need composite cables for the audio RCA jacks, assuming you add them as well.

if you just add an svideo jack, you can get the audio from the a/v port still. but model 1s are mono (unless you pull it from headphone jack)

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:31:45 2015 No.2207921
File: 31 KB, 420x300, 9e8c14c32bd631614f1af26f14cae850[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2207914
cr2032 with tabs
you'll need to remove the old battery, it's soldered in.

then clean up the spots and install the new battery, solder it in.

DO NOT follow any ridiculous guides that tape or glue batteries in after prying off the tabs.

do not do it.

get it right or pay the price

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:38:32 2015 No.2207932 >>2207921 Thanks. Any idea if those are regularly carried by drugstores and such or if it's something I should order online?

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 15:42:03 2015 No.2207941

>>2207932
oh, that's what i forgot.

you won't find them in general stores. maybe radio shack but even that place is all smart phones and tablets now.

you can get them super cheap on ebay from china, 3 of them for US$3.95, free shipping.

or try to find a seller in your country, but it'll probably be more expensive

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 16:26:08 2015 No.2208034

>>2207915
I mean, do i have to use the yellow plug and the s-video cable together or the s-video cable alone is sufficient to work properly, because i did the mod and for some reason i need to plug the regular composite cable AND the s-video cable together, them the s-video signal actually works.
If that makes sense.

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 16:29:18 2015 No.2208037

>>2208034
you goofed them.

svideo is luma and chroma
composite video are those two combined.

i assume you have the svideo plugged into, say, AV1 on your tv. that AV1 input has a yellow composite video as well?

if that's the case you DEFINITELY goofed your svideo mod.

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 16:31:42 2015 No.2208042

>>2208037
i forgot to say that if you get no video from svideo, the FIRST thing to do is switch your chroma and luma.

if they're switched you'll get no video.

you can also bridge them with a 470pf capacitor to turn it into composite video, if you have no video that way you goofed on the encoder/amp side of the schematic

hope that makes sense i'm typing fast to get the fuck out of work quick!

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 16:53:18 2015 No.2208076

>>2207712
>>2207707

If you run into this problem, you can always cut the cord, swap the wires around and solder it and heatshrink it.

Amperage only really matters if you don't have enough. As long as the adaptor can provide as much amperage or more, you are good.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Fri Jan 30 17:04:10 2015 No.2208096 >>2207941 You're not likely to find them tabbed in stores. However, you can get 10 of them for a bit over $8 on ebay and from a US seller to boot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131346398476

Anonymous Fri Jan 30 19:14:32 2015 No.2208447

Sup guys, I'm having some problems with my Megadrive 1 here.
Sound is very sketchy, sometimes playing some of the effects, but no music, and sometimes playing nothing at all.
I tried with different games, different RGB cables, and different power supplies. I also cleaned everything. Problem happen in both TV and headphone output.
What seems really troubling to me, is that when using my Master System converters, SMS games play properly.

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 19:15:34 2015 No.2208450 >>2208447 fucking captcha So, question is, is the sound chip completely dead, or is it salvageable ?

>>	Anonymous Fri Jan 30 20:50:43 2015 No.2208669 >>2176501 Can anyone share their recipe of Retrobright? Google brings up different recipes. I'm not sure which would be the best (easiest and most cheap) to use.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 00:41:06 2015 No.2209138 >>2207921 Tabs work pretty much the same as clips once you take them off a battery.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 00:43:04 2015 No.2209140 >>2209138 Let me stop you right there and tell you you're full of shit.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 07:29:01 2015 No.2209467 File: 360 KB, 1224x1632, DSC00003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Got it running again (so-so SMT CPU, have to pressure it against the mobo).

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 18:36:46 2015 No.2210310 >>2209140 >Let me talk about something I don't know about. Go ahead. It's a common pastime here. And a lot easier than actually trying it and seeing how well it works for yourself.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 21:17:41 2015 No.2210535 Would NTSC and PAL revisions use the same caps? Assuming it's the same board layout. Not in the power adapter obviously. Like on a PS1 or Saturn?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 21:22:21 2015 No.2210541 >>2202259 >SMD Tweezers This intrigues me, being an SMD noob. How does one use them?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 21:31:48 2015 No.2210551 >>2210310 Son you don't go gluing or taping a battery in and then expect anyone to listen to you.

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 21:36:30 2015 No.2210560 >>2210535 Or even better, does anyone have links to NTSC U SATURN and PS1 service manuals with the list of components?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 23:00:12 2015 No.2210657 >>2210560 Can't you just read them off the part?

>>	Anonymous Sat Jan 31 23:15:07 2015 No.2210672 >>2210657 The through hole electrolytic caps I can. The SMD caps I can't. it'll take me awhile to find the code. I believe they're Panasonic on the PS1 and Saturn so shouldn't take too long but a list would be amazing and save possibly hours.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 1 12:01:20 2015 No.2211269 Well I was able to track down the capacitor documentation from the manufacturer. Now I just need to translate the codes to voltage. Still if anyone has a service manual for the NTSC U Saturn I would like to read it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 1 12:09:46 2015 No.2211278 >>2211269 Can you share what you got? It might help somebody else on down the line.

Anonymous Sun Feb 1 12:21:41 2015 No.2211294

>>2211278
I'm busy writing it down and then transferring it to an excel sheet I got.
I listed the N64 caps in the other thread. I have another revisions I wrote down. Later tonight I can list
-Saturn model 1. NTSC U (think there's only 1 revision model 1 in America)
-N64 NUS-CPU-04 (listed that last time)
-N64 NUS-CPU-03
-PS1 SCPH 1001
-PS1 SCPH 5501

I got the caps listed down for the power supplies also. Including the N64.

Give me another month or so and I'll get Saturn model 2 and the other PS1 revisions. I sold my other N64s so I wont be writing those down. Sorry if anyone was looking for them.

In the mean time are there any caps on the PS1 controller port board? Thing seems like a bitch to get off.

Anonymous Sun Feb 1 12:23:25 2015 No.2211297

>>2210551
I never said anything about gluing or taping a battery in and don't expect someone who can't into reading comprehension enough to understand that to listen to me.
But I hope people who are interested in replacing a battery instead of just edgy shitposting find my advice useful.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 1 12:32:07 2015 No.2211307 >>2211278 Oh and another question maybe you or someone else can help me with. Are there any good analog stick replacements for the PS1/PS2? Not china shit.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 1 14:08:11 2015 No.2211412 >>2210541 It's a essentially an iron on each side of tweezers. It heats both pads so the small surface mount part comes off easy. I only use mine when I have a shit load of parts to remove at a time.

Anonymous Sun Feb 1 14:10:39 2015 No.2211417

>>2211297
Yeah, prying the tabs off a battery and pressing them against a new one will never be as effective as a proper clip or welded tab. Increased resistance will drain the battery faster and it has the chance of slipping loose.

Solder or clip. Anything else is worse and takes more effort.

Anonymous Sun Feb 1 23:06:42 2015 No.2212260

Genesis/MegaDrive question:

I have a model 1 (pre lockout-chip) NTSC genesis.
After playing a graphically intensive genesis game for a few minutes, the graphics begin to glitch out. For example, in Ecco, his sprite and certain tiles in the background layer get switched around with other tiles.
I was advised to and as such have just replaced the two 7805's that provide the main power, and now they don't seem to be getting as hot as before, but the problem persists. It seems to be primarily a graphical problem, and doesn't seem to effect the audio.
Does anyone have a board layout for that model? I'm wondering if some of the parts beneath the heatsink have been harmed by past heat and now go wonky when getting even slightly hot.

Thanks for your help.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 1 23:24:30 2015 No.2212291 >>2212260 On the topic of model 1 Genesis consoles and heat, are they supposed to get considerably hot on the left side? My VA7 gets decently warm rather quickly on the left side, but further in than the vents on it; Is that normal?

Anonymous Sun Feb 1 23:59:21 2015 No.2212321
File: 407 KB, 1280x665, 36919122.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2212291
If you're facing a genesis so the power plug is in the back the left side has the voltage regulator.
>>2212260
Have you replaced all the caps? Seems like something is over heating.
Also here's some capacitor lists. I still need to write down sizes. Eventually I'll post these on some wiki/forum.

NUS-CPU-04
c15 10v 220uf
c16 10v 220uf
c24 25v 33uf
c25 16v 10uf
c26 16v 10uf
c28 25v 33uf
c33 10v 68uf
c34 16v 10uf
c73 10v 68uf
c81 10v 68uf
c128 16v 10uf
c130 10v 68uf
c131 10v 68uf
c134 10v 68uf
c140 10v 68uf
c141 10v 68uf
c142 10v 68uf
c145 10v 68uf

NUS-CPU-03
c15 10v 220uf
c16 10v 220uf
c24 25v 33uf
c25 16v 10uf
c26 16v 10uf
c28 25v 33uf
c33 10v 68uf
c34 16v 10uf
c73 10v 68uf
c81 10v 68uf
c128 16v 10uf
c130 10v 68uf
c131 10v 68uf
c134 10v 68uf
c140 10v 68uf
c141 10v 68uf
c142 10v 68uf
c145 10v 68uf

N64 Power supply
c2 200v 100uf
c4 35v 56uf
c12 25v 330uf
c16 10v 1800uf
c17 10v 270uf
c20 35v 47uf

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:02:10 2015 No.2212326

>>2212321
***American Saturn
VA1 171-7006c MAIN
ce3 6.3v 100uf
ce6 6.3v 100uf
ce15 16v 10uf
ce16 16v 10uf
ce18 6.3v 100uf
ce19 6.3v 100uf
ce20 16v 10uf
ce21 16v 10uf
ce22 25v 4.7uf
ce23 16v 10uf
ce24 4v 220uf
ce25 4v 220uf
ce26 4v 220uf
ce27 4v 220uf
ce28 4v 220uf
ce29 4v 220uf
ce30 6.3v 100uf
ce31 16v 10uf
ce33 6.3v 22uf
ce34 6.3v 22uf
ce35 6.3v 47uf
ce37 16v 10uf
ce42 16v 10uf
ce45 6.3v 330uf
ce46 6.3v 220uf
ce47 50v 1uf
ce48 50v 1uf
ce49 6.3v 47uf
ce50 6.3v 47uf
ce52 16v 10uf
ce53 6.3v 47uf
ce55 6.3v 47uf
ce56 16v 47yf
ce57 16v 47uf

Saturn power supply
c5 200v 120uf
c10 10v 4700uf
c12 16v 2200uf
c15 16v 330uf
c16 16v 330uf
c24 16v 330uf
c50 10v 2200uf
c72 16v 47uf

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:04:22 2015 No.2212331 I fixed an nes I found today by replacing the 72 pin connector and cleaning all the games with rubbing alcohol now I can sell it for a profit and buy 2 broken ones and have exponential profit

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:10:04 2015 No.2212345

>>2212326
If anyone could help me track down analog stick replacements that aren't Chinese garbage for the PS1/PS2 that would be great.

I spent about an hour taking apart and putting back together the controller port on a PS1. No caps there. What a bitch that was.

And American PlayStations
PS1 SCPH 1001
c318 50v .47uf
c325 16v 10uf
c327 16v 10uf
c406 16v 10uf
c407 16v 10uf
c423 16v 10uf
c424 16v 10uf
c427 16v 10uf
c428 16v 10uf
c429 16v 10uf
c430 16v 10uf
c508 6.3v 47uf
c511 16v 10uf
c513 6v 100uf
c517 4v 220uf
c518 4v 220uf
c519 16v 10uf
c522 4v 220uf
c526 4v 220uf
c527 4v 220uf
c528 4v 220uf
c601 16v 47uf
c602 4v 220uf
c605 16v 47uf
c609 16v 10uf
c611 16v 10uf
c615 16v 10uf
c616 6v 22uf
c618 16v 10uf
c619 6v 22uf
c708 6v 22uf
c718 35v 4.7uf
c737 16v 47uf

Power supply
c104 200v 150uf
c111 35v 47uf
c201 16v 1000uf
c202 16v 470uf
c203 10v 2200uf
c204 6.3v 1000uf

PS1 SCPH 5501
c325 6.3v 47uf
c406 16v 10uf
c407 16v 10uf
c423 16v 10uf
c424 16v 10uf
c443 6v 22uf
c508 6.3v 47uf
c511 16v 10uf
c513 6.3v 100uf
c518 4v 220uf
c519 16v 10uf
c522 4v 220uf
c527 4v 220uf
c528 4v 220uf
c601 16v 47uf
c602 4v 220uf
c605 16v 47uf
c611 16v 10uf
c616 6v 22uf
c624 16v 10uf
c705 50v .47uf
c731 16v 10uf
c734 16v 10uf
c738 6.3v 47uf
c745 16v 10uf
c756 6v 22uf

Power Supply
c003 200v 100f
c102 25v 560uf
c103 25v 560uf
c104 25v 220uf
c105 25v 330uf
c107 50v 1uf

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:15:38 2015 No.2212354 >>2212321 >left side has the voltage regulator. I get that, but it still seems to get hotter than I feel it should for the amount of time it is turned on. Could using a video cable that isn't "properly wired" lead to it to heat up more?

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:15:57 2015 No.2212357

>>2212321
I haven't replaced the capacitors. I suppose that's the next step. Start with just the electrolytic ones, or the low voltage and solid electrolyte ones as well? I haven't done any console repair before.

And just to further clarify, the board is a VA3 revision.

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:23:37 2015 No.2212367

>>2212354
A video cable shouldn't cause a console to overheat.
These old consoles are passively cooled. They get pretty warm.
>>2212357
You mean the ceramic caps? Generally you just replace the electrolytic caps. The ceramics will last forever(basically) as long as they aren't mistreated.
The problem with the electrolytic cap is they dry up and go bad. When that happens you get changes in voltages or if you're lucky it just loses continuity. With the change in voltage that can lead to components burning out and overheating.

A Genesis is a good console to start out repairing. They're easy to work on because the caps are through hole so you don't need any special tools. Console 5 has some kits if you want to try it out, I assume you got tools since you said you replaced the regulator.
The power supply could be wonky also.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:26:36 2015 No.2212372 >>2212367 The only reason I asked is that my current "setup" seemed to make it get hotter than before, and said setup is just wires going straight from the AV port to the TV. Extremely improper, yes, but I was bored and wanted to see what would happen.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 00:29:17 2015 No.2212379 >>2212372 I would worry more about your TV's input getting burnt out. I don't know why it would cause a console to get hotter.

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 03:39:38 2015 No.2212608

Hello.

I recently installed my Sega SJ-6000 six button controller in a SNES Capcom Fighter Power Stick.

While it works I have a weird problem with the mode button activating (at least when I first boot the system up after a while) and switching it into three button mode without me even pushing it.

Anyone have any idea why this happens? It goes away after I switch the console off and back on, and the mode button works as it normally would.

If this helps I tried soldering onto the leg of the tact switch connected to the signal trace, but I cut that off and soldered onto the trace itself but the issue still persists.

The stick itself works normally as an SNES too I might add.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 04:53:01 2015 No.2212653 >>2197946 Is this sarcasm?

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 10:42:57 2015 No.2212897

Afternoon, chaps.

I just got a loose famicom cart in the mail- the first I've ever bought, and it looks as though it's been sealed along the sides and top with modelling glue.

There are no screws on the cart, so it looks like maybe somebody opened this and broke tabs inside, having to glue it shut?

I don't like importing carts or consoles I can't open. Should I ask for my money back or is this actually common?

Sorry for lack of pics, at work atm.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 2 19:39:35 2015 No.2213606 >>2212897 It's not uncommon. If it was described otherwise and you paid for a cart in better condition then ask for a refund/reduction. If you just paid a few bucks for a game you want to play don't sweat it.

Anonymous Mon Feb 2 20:08:45 2015 No.2213631

>>2212897
Famicom carts are a pain in the ass to open. You don't want to be opening them regularly unless you have a good technique down. If the tabs break when opening, you can glue the tabs back together assuming a clean break. No clue why someone would glue the whole cart back together, though, unless the clips just totally shattered.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 3 01:07:34 2015 No.2214002 >>2212608 Disregard this. I found a work around that eliminated the issue.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 3 05:40:53 2015 No.2214212 >>2213631 >>2213606 Good to know, thanks guys. I picked up a copy of Door Door mostly to test my famicom ahead of buying a flashcart, got it for $3 including shipping, so I'm not too sore about it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 03:38:46 2015 No.2215731 bump

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 06:52:41 2015 No.2215856 Has anyone done a frontlight mod for the GBC? Is it worth it?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 11:42:57 2015 No.2216160 >>2215856 Yes. Yes. Being able to play the thing in any lighting is a big plus.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:06:28 2015 No.2216191 I got myself a gamebit and some batteries, what soldering iron or what have you do you guys recommend? How do I not poison myself with lead?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:24:04 2015 No.2216223 >>2216191 >How do I not poison myself with lead? Almost all solder is lead free these days, and all you have to do with leaded stuff is not eat it.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:25:42 2015 No.2216227

>>2216191
>what soldering iron or what have you do you guys recommend?
I don't know what would be easier for you. I mostly used classic Weller irons at home and the TV repair workshop i used to work at.

>How do I not poison myself with lead?
Very simple.
- Do not eat, same applies to licking.
- Keep away from open wounds.
- Do not stick it in the electrical outlet as well.
- And do not eat.
Really, why people worry about such stupid things?

And do yourself a favor and avoid lead-free solder at all costs because it's shitty to work with, smells very sweet and disgusting, doesn't survive shocks as good as classic solder with lead, will cause problems anyway especially with THT components and it's just stupid.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:26:52 2015 No.2216229 >>2216191 Lead free solder is crap. Just work in a ventilated area. Hakko makes really good irons. 888d is very good. What's your price range? You can get away with a $20-$30 plug in the wall unit depending on the work you want to do.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:51:13 2015 No.2216252

>>2216229

My price range is pretty low, but if it was necessary I could probably save up to around $200

What I want to do is vague; repair my own game stuff. The repair place in my city stopped doing a lot of it (Won't replace the caps in my gamegear, doesn't keep save batteries on hand and only pulls them out of other old carts) so if i want to continue my hobby, I have to learn to take care of my own shit.

I'm not 100% unfamiliar with soldering, but have really only done it with power cords on appliances which is not a job that really requires finesse.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 12:54:28 2015 No.2216257

>>2216252
The 888d is under $100 and very good. If you want to handle smd caps then you get into pricier options. 2 irons, tweezer, or hot air.

I like the 888d. Been working well for over a year now for me. All the tip options are nice. I'm probably going to buy a second one so I use two irons as tweezers.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:00:24 2015 No.2216262 >>2216257 Sorry for being ignorant, but what is it that I'd need to use the additional equipment for with the caps, and what are the pros/cons to the options? I'm really going into this fairly blind, but I want my fucking Gamegear to work.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:04:46 2015 No.2216265

>>2216223
>Almost all solder is lead free these days
for commercial use, yeah. the cellphone in your hand? lead free solder.

but for hobby it's, well, it's retarded to use lead free.

it's a big pain in the ass to use
it's incredibly more expensive
it sucks
it really sucks

just don't eat pb/sn solder and you'll be fine.

oh, and get an xytronic or hakko if you're going to be doing a decent amount of soldering.

or find a cheap one if you're just doing some hobby stuff on the side. check out >>2202214 for a really inexpensive and nice iron i would buy if i didn't already have a lf-1680

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:06:27 2015 No.2216267

>>2216262
Radial through hole caps ( the ones with the two wires sticking out) can be easily removed with 1 iron and a sucker or something to remove the solder.
SMD caps are the ones that sit on top of the board and have those 2 tiny legs sticking out. You need to heat both legs up at the same time and then remove. You have to be careful since the pads or so small you can easily damage them. There's a few methods to removing them.
Some people just rip them out with some pliers though.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:10:47 2015 No.2216274

>>2216265
i didn't refresh for like half an hour and missed all those replies.

>>2216262
some stations are compatible with smd tweezers as well as irons.

my xytronic lf-1680 does, seen in this picture: >>2202259

they aren't NECESSARY for smd work but make things so much easier.

if you're goal is to recap a gamegear you won't need tweezers, the gg caps, although surface mounted, are actual just through-hole elec.caps with the pins bent in a holder thing. confusing, i know, but you can just use a bigger tip to hit both spots

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:25:17 2015 No.2216291

>>2216274
>>2216267

Okay, one more question: Is there any reason I shouldn't hook this shit up with an extension cord? My house is ancient and there's only about one outlet per room, and my only available workstation would be far away from one unless I decided to rearrange the furniture.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:28:30 2015 No.2216293 >>2216291 Same for hooking anything up to an extension cord. I generally remove anything when not using it.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:29:53 2015 No.2216295

>>2216291
shouldn't be a problem. unless it's a hundred year old extension cord that's a hundred feet long weaving in and out of dirty water.

when i worked in production at my job, on the bench, we had 6 people's work stations all plugged into the bench strip... which was plugged into the adjacent bench strip..
all going into one plug.

i think it still may be like that. we tripped the breaker occasionally.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:30:54 2015 No.2216296 >>2216295 >all going into one plug. err, all plugged into one outlet*

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:39:02 2015 No.2216308 Anybody have experience with repairing water damage? Is it possible? I have a handheld that got water damaged and have had some results reviving it. It's not retro, it's a 3DS so I'll save the specifics.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 13:51:58 2015 No.2216330 >>2216308 You mean like corrosion? It's fucked. Drying out just put it over a heater for awhile. (not one hot enough to melt plastic.)

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 15:16:07 2015 No.2216436

>>2216330
I couldn't find any visible corrosion. A lot of the buttons weren't working at all or randomly pressing themselves when it first happened. After an alcohol bath and randomly checking on it from time to time it's been slowly getting better. I figured it got fried but it been doing better than I would have imagined and sparked a bit of hope. Just thought it would worth a try to see if anyone knew how to cheat this kind of death.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 15:26:53 2015 No.2216453

I picked up a Game Gear at a thrift store the other day and it's been working great up until this morning. The red led started flickering and then after a few minutes the system shut off, now it powers on for about a second and shuts right off. The backlight comes on for that second, but there's nothing on screen. The red led doesn't even turn on.

From what I can find, this doesn't seem to be a capacitor issue? My audio/video were perfect up until the system shut down. Has anyone else had this problem and managed to fix it?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 15:28:24 2015 No.2216457 >>2216453 Forgot to mention, I've tried with just batteries and while the system is plugged in. Same thing happens.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 4 19:41:31 2015 No.2216895 >>2216160 I agree 100%, thanks.

Anonymous Wed Feb 4 20:22:04 2015 No.2216939

I have a Model 2 Sega CD with memory problems. It asks me to format them everytime I turn it on, and obviously it doesn't save.

Apparently this is merely an issue of the batteries being dead and needing replacement. Unlike the Saturn, the SegaCD's battery apparently aren't so easy to replace.

I looked at guides and they usually describe having to unsolder components. I have no skill with a soldering iron, and I absolutely don't want to risk damaging my nearly-mint SegaCD. How hard exactly is it to make that mod?

I also saw some mods people made that replace the battery with twin AAA batteries, for easier replacing. Is such a thing worth doing?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 5 00:59:45 2015 No.2217314 >>2216939 It's the battery. Replacing it is pretty easy. There are pros and cons to replacing it with something easier to find/replace. I usually do. If you don't feel comfortable messing with it right now get a RAM cart in the mean time.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 5 03:34:27 2015 No.2217472 >>2216436 Put it in a ziploc bag of dry rice for a day.

Anonymous Thu Feb 5 21:47:19 2015 No.2218575
File: 18 KB, 345x259, carter wong 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

one of my games has its cartridge pins pretty worn away. Like, you can see the silver underneath the normal gold-colored parts. It still works, but often it takes multiple tries and its really easy to make the game freeze up because the connection is basically hanging by a thread.

So yeah, is there any way to fix this? Not sure if some sort of spray-on conductive coating is a possibility or just a ridiculous concept, so I might as well ask.

Anonymous Thu Feb 5 23:10:21 2015 No.2218732

>>2218575
A thin layer of missing metal doesn't classify as "hanging by a thread". If it did every set of audio cables that wasn't gold plated would be "hanging by a thread". Yet some how they work and sound just as good as the ones that cost 50x as much.

Most likely your cart is just shitted up. Look for shit on pins and traces. Make a note of where those are in case you need to do repairs. Give it a good cleaning and drying. If that doesn't solve the problem revisit those pins/traces and fix them.

Anonymous Fri Feb 6 10:42:45 2015 No.2219213
File: 2.31 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_2719.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

anyone got a clue whats up with my pal snes?
ive tried it on two tvs, two different ac adapters, rf cables and av cables from my gamecube. getting this error on a few games, super mario world just has fucked up colours

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 10:50:04 2015 No.2219217 >>2218575 >buy new copy from eBay in good condition >swap shells >video the copy you just bought (with your old games internals) not working >show you doing it multiple times >get refund Fix your problem for the cost of shipping

Anonymous Fri Feb 6 13:37:05 2015 No.2219345

Anyone have and idea about a Sega Master System that all of a sudden wont powering on. Im using the correct power adapter and tested it on my model 1 Genesis so I know the adapter is fine. Also I opened it up and and sprayed out all dust , checked the voltage regulator. Not sure what else to check.

Anonymous Fri Feb 6 15:16:39 2015 No.2219493

Could someone help me out? I took off my NES' 72 pin connector to clean it out and shit, but now it wont go back on the board. Its all lined up and I'm pushing evenly but it feels like I'm going to break something if I push too hard.
Am I just being a bitch?

Please respond

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 15:54:39 2015 No.2219539 >>2219493 When I cleaned mine it came off fairly easy but when I put it back on I had to use alot of force.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:01:32 2015 No.2219643 Any ideas on an old genesis. No lights coming on.

Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:12:31 2015 No.2219673

>>2219643
DO you have a multimeter? Check the AC adapter to make sure its working.

Is it a model 1? Does the power switch feel loose? The external switch is just a covering that hits the real switch attached to the circuit board, and if it's misaligned it could be that you're not actually turning on the real internal switch. Take out the 6 screws on the botton of the genesis and lift the top off and you'll see the white switch. Try turning this on and you may get a result.

Those are the only simple solutions I can think of. Anything else would require a more detailed examination of the circuitry and might require something like resoldering or checking the voltage regulators. And I know nothing about genesis model 2s either.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:20:40 2015 No.2219682 >>2219493 If you've tightened the pins up it may require a bit of force to put it back on but there's not really anything there that can be broken as long as you're not grabbing it by the components.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:24:10 2015 No.2219686 >>2219643 does anyone know if their are any visible signs if its fried?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:25:12 2015 No.2219690 >>2219686 I took off the top so its not the switch.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:26:15 2015 No.2219692 >>2219690 could be the game connection I guess.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 17:44:27 2015 No.2219724 >>2219692 >>2219690 If it was a problem with the game connection, you'd still see the red light come on. If no light, then that means there's a problem getting power. Is this a model 1?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:04:58 2015 No.2219743 >>2219692 i think so. wasn't sure about the power. couple different supplies fit. hope i didn't fry it.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:06:47 2015 No.2219745 >>2219743 board looks fine?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:12:56 2015 No.2219752 >>2219745 I found it a couple other consoles and a bunch of power supplies.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:18:59 2015 No.2219757 aw well I can get core 2 for 8 bucks. Our maybe I get the ultron thing.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:21:34 2015 No.2219759 >>2219743 >couple different supplies fit. The fit doesn't mean shit, it's the power they put through. 10V 1.2A is what mine is.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:22:40 2015 No.2219761 ok thx i will check

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:24:53 2015 No.2219763 well none of these are that. guess ill look around our order. thx does it say sega?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:37:09 2015 No.2219774 ha ha ordered the retron. gonna be so broke.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:42:07 2015 No.2219786 is ebay my best bet to find spare parts for consoles? specifically cases

Anonymous Fri Feb 6 18:46:24 2015 No.2219794

>>2219763
>does it say sega
Yes, the official power supply is first party.

I'm also going on the assumption that you're using a model 1 Genesis. 2 and 3 have different ratings.

>>2219774
>ordered the retron
You might want to not, unless you want dark video, underwater quality sound, and the connector gouging through the contacts of your games.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 6 19:21:22 2015 No.2219829 >>2219786 Good luck trying to find nice cases. Basically going to have to pay the normal price or wait a long time. Doesn't help that most of the non working listings have pretty poor pictures too.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 14:34:17 2015 No.2221254 >>2219213 bump for this issue

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 14:44:24 2015 No.2221265 >>2221254 >>2219213 Probably capacitors or power supply. A dirty connection sometimes causes that too.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 15:41:43 2015 No.2221338

an update on >>2212260

I bought new caps from console 5 and recapped the genesis; the problem persists. Stupidly, I assumed it was a cap problem before checking the power supply; it's giving out ~14.4v, and very little amperage (supposed to be 10vDC and 1.2Amps
My Question now is: Is http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charger-Jaguar-Genesis-Power/dp/B00JW6AZB2
a good potential replacement for the power supply?

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 15:59:17 2015 No.2221369

>>2221338
It should be giving out more volts than it's rated. Also you can't measure the amps unless it's in a circuit that's drawing amps.

Connecting the multimeter with the amps measurement selected to a power supply not in a circuit shorts it.
The fact that there's no amps but volts probably means you blew up a cap or something else in the power supply.

Rtfm next time.

When I said before that it might be a cap problem. That was assuming everything was cleaned and the power adapter wasn't fried.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 17:26:57 2015 No.2221493

>>2221369
I was testing amps directly from the unconnected power supply.
In that case, I don't think a cap is blown in the power supply.
How could I test the amps under load? Turn it on and connect the leads to the internal power supply?

Would the genesis run at all with certain caps busted? I might have lifted a trace when taking out one of the old caps.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 17:58:07 2015 No.2221531

>>2221493
>I was testing amps directly from the unconnected power supply.
Ya you don't do that.

There's no easy way to measure amps for a console. Not much point either when you can just try a known good power supply.

Genesis will run without caps the question is how long. Could fry when you turn it on or it could last awhile.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:03:40 2015 No.2221548 >>2221493 Have you tried re-flowing the legs on the chips on the board? This really doesn't sound like an issue bad power would cause.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:06:36 2015 No.2221556 >>2221548 Bad power supplies can cause all sorts of graphical glitches.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:21:56 2015 No.2221575 >>2221556 Doesn't mean you should ignore any other problem areas. Re-flowing the legs on the chips is simple and harmless, unless you shake like an unbalanced washer.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:26:58 2015 No.2221583 >>2221575 I didn't say that. Reflowing chip legs isn't something that should be done just for the hell of it.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:31:03 2015 No.2221590 >>2221583 Why? It's an old system, it will have fatigue on the joints, and it does literally nothing to harm it if you aren't shaking like a leaf.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:44:01 2015 No.2221609 >>2221590 You can easily lift pads. The old consoles for the most part used high quality solder with lead. Long as you're not in a extreme environment it should be good. But if a console is a brick then it can be a good thing to do.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:52:28 2015 No.2221619 where can I purchase GBP screens or does anyone sell pre-made GBP LED screens? a friend sent me a broken Game Boy Light that is missing the EL panel and screen; after looking at it, it's the perfect candidate for a LED backlit screen.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 18:52:46 2015 No.2221620 >>2219794 well i will report if the retron sucks....too bad.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:00:17 2015 No.2221632 >>2221620 will*

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:02:49 2015 No.2221639

>>2221609
>You can easily lift pads.

Christ, son, don't hulk out on it and that will basically never happen. As long as the board is in good condition, you run very little risk of damaging it in this way if you're steady and do it properly.

You're dead set on power issues when this issue is also easily explained by bad joints on memory or processors. Or bad memory or processors, but hey. Optimism.

>>2221620
You aren't in uncharted waters here. The retron does suck.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:06:24 2015 No.2221646 >>2221620 don't say that. i might be out of 50 bucks.guess i can give it as a gift to my brother.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:09:51 2015 No.2221657

>>2221639
>You're dead set on power issues when this issue is also easily explained by bad joints on memory or processors. Or bad memory or processors, but hey. Optimism.
Why do you keep saying that? I've told the guy 4 different things it could be.
Now you're telling the guy to look at the memory and cpu?

As said you're dealing with lead solder. If you really have that many consoles that needed to be reflowed you're living in some 3rd world.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:17:29 2015 No.2221665

>>2221657
>As said you're dealing with lead solder. If you really have that many consoles that needed to be reflowed you're living in some 3rd world.

Even lead solder isn't immune to fatigue, but fine, next time I see someone post a problem that matches a problem I've seen before, I will ignore them instead of mentioning a possible fix that solved it for me.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:32:22 2015 No.2221687

>>2221665
Are you trying to project or something? You seem to be taking this as a personal attack or something. Calm down.
I told the guy it could be caps or needs a simple cleaning. Then after he mentioned he tried to measure the amps with a multimeter, it made sense to assume the power adapter may be broke.

Reflowing can be good too but I really don't think it's something you should do often or unnecessarily. It makes more sense with modern stuff that uses that crappy solder.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:44:14 2015 No.2221709

>>2221687
>Reflowing can be good too but I really don't think it's something you should do often or unnecessarily.

It's been nearly 30 years since most of these Genesis systems were manufactured. I don't consider a one time reflow because of graphical errors often or unnecessary.

You win though, I won't post anymore about things I've seen and done, since apparently giving someone more possible fixes is bad in a repair thread.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 19:52:47 2015 No.2221718 >>2221657 >If you really have that many consoles that needed to be reflowed you're living in some 3rd world. PS: This shit is super common on arcade boards.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 20:00:52 2015 No.2221734 >>2221709 What ever man. I'd worry more about corrosion than solder joints breaking. >>2221718 Arcade boards are a bit different. They generally operate hotter and for many more hours. Some have to deal with a lot of vibrations, etc.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 20:07:33 2015 No.2221746 >>2221734 >Arcade boards are a bit different Yet somehow many problems and solutions for them are very similar to consoles.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 7 20:09:04 2015 No.2221750 >>2221746 Probably because they use the same technology. I heard they call it a printed circuit board.

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 23:35:07 2015 No.2222051

>>2221687

Sorry, but just to be clear, would naively using a multimeter on the power supply for ~5 seconds damage it permanently?

And for the other guy, can I reflow the circuits without a reflow oven? Just curious because your repeatedly mention steady hands, and a cursory google search didn't reveal anything that would seem to depend on steady hands...

Anonymous Sat Feb 7 23:50:51 2015 No.2222075

>>2222051
>Sorry, but just to be clear, would naively using a multimeter on the power supply for ~5 seconds damage it permanently?
You are shorting it so yes it can permanently damage it. May be fine too or it could had just blown a fuse.
If you measure amps it should shoot up to like 50+ since your shorting it.

I believe the SEGA and SNES consoles used a slow fuse so you may fine there.

>And for the other guy, can I reflow the circuits without a reflow oven?
Not the other guy but we were both talking about taking an iron and dragging it along the pins.
Clean the board, put flux on the solder joints, and then just drag/tap along the joints to reflow. You may need to add some solder to some of them. Having a good temp controlled iron is really nice for stuff like that.
"Reflow" is a kind of catch all term.

Anonymous Sun Feb 8 00:10:56 2015 No.2222110

>>2222075

Okay. So a "known good power supply" for this application would be specced for exactly 10V and at least 1.2Amps?

A good soldering iron would be nice; this is my first time soldering & I just have a weller broad tip iron and rosin core flux available to me.

Anonymous Sun Feb 8 00:19:00 2015 No.2222124

>>2222110
Everyone starts somewhere. Just be glad you're dealing with relatively low voltage and amps. My fuck ups have generally resulted in something melting.
I would just track down another Genesis. They are dirt cheap. If you like the one you currently have then at least you'll have another power supply to mess with. Really helps to have 1 known to work unit when trouble shooting problems. At you could use the broken to help you learn and maybe fix.

I don't remember off the top of my head but I think the Genesis model 1 power adapters are the ones with the security torx? You'll need one of them if you want to open up your current power adapter. If it still supplies voltage it's probably good.

Anonymous Sun Feb 8 14:52:45 2015 No.2222947

This seems like the best thread to ask this. I installed Wiisx on my Wii to play PS1 games. Everything has worked fine, except The Misadventures of Tron Bonne. I've tried multiple files like bin, img, but the game always freezes during the intro level, right after defeating the big reaverbot. Does anyone know how to keep it from freezing, or if there is a better download available? I don't feel like spending $250 just to play a Mega Man Legends spin-off.

Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:28:52 2015 No.2223529

I just bought a Genesis (Pictured here) a couple days ago, and it seems as if the reset button does not function. I only have one game with (Also Pictured here), and I am not sure if it is the Genesis, or if some multi-carts just don't allow resetting? That's probably a stupid though, but I haven't a clue.

I took it apart yesterday to clean the casing and I didn't see anything visibly wrong with the switch.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:33:25 2015 No.2223542 File: 152 KB, 960x720, 10968582_1069417723074989_1982260556515584636_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2223529 Forgot picture.

Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:35:14 2015 No.2223545
File: 90 KB, 850x567, pswiredseriel.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have a ddr pad with a serial out, that needed to be connected to a playstation. I wired a 9 pin dsub shield to the contacts on this controllers board to act as an adapter. It works too, any thoughts/questions? I'm new to this.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:47:12 2015 No.2223572 >>2186227 Are you burning the discs yourself?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:53:17 2015 No.2223592 >>2222947 sounds like the emulator is literally piece of shit.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 20:59:25 2015 No.2223601 >>2222947 Yeah it's pretty much >>2223592 Your emulator is probably poor and has a compatibility issue with Tron. If the website happens to have a compatibility list, then I would give it a look see.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 21:33:00 2015 No.2223669 >>2223545 >thoughts Maybe learn the difference between a a communications system (serial) and a connecter (DB-9). Your DDR pad actually uses parallel over a DB-9. Aside from that well done and nice to see you worked it out.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 8 22:55:40 2015 No.2223851 >>2223669 Thanks, I suppose I didn't know the right words for it. I still have to fit it all back into the plastic shell. I just have to dremel out a section for the connector.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 00:00:09 2015 No.2223990 >>2223529 If you have a multimeter you can test the switch. I would clean it with rubbing alcohol on an old toothbrush and see if that helps.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 01:05:39 2015 No.2224113 >>2223990 That's something I had already planned on picking up, because I needed to clean the pins on 6-Pak. Thanks for the advice.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 01:42:05 2015 No.2224169 >>2223851 Personally I'd just throw the board in a prototype box. It'll be easier and look better. Unless there's a shortage of PS controllers where you are or something.

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 02:13:51 2015 No.2224214

>>2223990
So I sort of figured out the issue and slapped a band aid fix on it.

I think the rubber button had lost some of it's sensitivity, as I was trying to reset it using an object with the same circumference as the plastic switch, and it wasn't doing anything. I tried something smaller and pinpointed the center of the switch, which seemed to have done the job.

There is a small hole in the center of the plastic switch that I wedged a small flat piece of toothpick into, just a pinch, and reassembled the system. It was just enough and now it resets.

But it's only temporary anyways, as I had originally planned to get a Model 1. I found this one at a garage sale for 5 bucks and besides the switch issue, the inside is a little rusty around the edges it was covered with cobwebs, and it smells of mildew. So I am going to go out on a limb and assume that it suffered the fate of many other systems. The shed.

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 08:05:57 2015 No.2224479
File: 1 KB, 320x224, mcd_zone_alert.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've added a Frequency/Zone combined switch on my Megadrive 1, essentially like this: http://www.obsolete-tears.com/switcher-une-megadrive-i-solution-alternative-dossier-87.html
This method takes advantage of pull up / pull down properties to effectively set the console to any region.

While this works fine, I'm running into issues with the MegaCD now: whatever the zone I select on the Megadrive (even if matching), the MegaCD claims not to be able to boot. I've tried loading a region-free MCD Bios on my Everdrive too, this doesn't seem to solve the issue.

What could I do about it? I'd like to keep a single switch on the console.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 10:47:10 2015 No.2224638 >>2224479 Did it work before the mod?

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 17:49:33 2015 No.2225297 File: 1.91 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_3398.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] does anyone know why my copy of Street fighter zero 2 for the SFC has garbled graphics like this? Every other game i have for my sfc works perfectly.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 17:51:03 2015 No.2225298 >>2225297 Connector issue probably. Clean it. Unless you're trying to put it into a PAL console?

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 17:54:51 2015 No.2225308 File: 1.64 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_3397.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2225298 I have cleaned it almost 10 times now, so i don't think it's a connecter issue. And no it's a super famicom. Here is a picture of the characther select screen

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 17:58:25 2015 No.2225314 >>2225308 How are cleaning it? Also with a TV like that I assume you're in PAL land? How are you hooking up power?

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:05:56 2015 No.2225329
File: 2.47 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_3406.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2225314
I'm cleaning it with isopropyl alcohol 90% using q-tips.
Yeah i'm in pal land, and i use a AC too DC power connector, pic related.
Sometimes the backround, health bars and super meters will look normal but the charachter sprites always look garbled (will post a pic of this in next post)

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:07:03 2015 No.2225331 File: 1.60 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_3403.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2225329

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:11:16 2015 No.2225332

>>2225331
>>2225329
I really doubt the actually information on the cart is corrupt but one of the capacitors on the cart could be going out.
I'd put the blame on either dirty contacts or the power adapter. Though you should running into issues with other games. How many games do you test with?

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:18:52 2015 No.2225349
File: 2.88 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_3407.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2225332
This is my entire SFC collection, and they all work except for the dragon ball game, which won't boot up at all.
And Street fighter zero 2 which boots up everytime but with grabled graphics.
And the only other game i have ran into problems with garbled graphics is Final Fight 2, which i fixed by cleaning it.
I have heard it might be because of the special chip street fighter uses.

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:24:06 2015 No.2225359

I have a question about Doom on SNES.

When I put my copy into my SNES, the title screens and menu come up fine but once I select a difficulty and the actual game comes up, the screen is completely black but the music still plays. Any idea what may be wrong?

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:31:10 2015 No.2225375 >>2225359 Have you cleaned the game? if so, how and with what?

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:32:56 2015 No.2225384

>>2225329
Do you have the lockout chip disabled?
This game uses the S-DD1 which is a coprocessor that decompresses data very fast and it has it's own CIC integrated like the SA-1 (used in SMRPG and the 2 other main Kirby games).
Without a valid NTSC CIC lock in the console it would just pass the compressed data to the SNES/SFC without decompressing it.
This would explain your problem.
If the lockout chip is enabled then you should open the cartridge, maybe the preowner modded the game to work with PAL CIC lock (actually very simple to perform, good soldering skills are needed).

Also your PSU should be fine for any NTSC SNES/SFC but maybe you could experience distorted sound with games (most likely demos) that are very loud, as the 9V would drop to 8,3V or lower after the diode and the audio amplifier doesn't get it's 9V.

http://problemkaputt.de/fullsnes.htm#snespowersupply

>>2225359
Mine does that with an enabled Pro Action Replay MK3 between it.
Usually it indicates that the SuperFX2 coprocessor doesn't start for some reason,
Are the contacts clean?

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:40:52 2015 No.2225412

>>2225384
Actually i did open the SFC too fix it becaus it wasn't playing any games.
I cleaned every connection on the console, and took everything apart, and put it back togheter.
And BAM it worked after that.
But the previous owner had modded the console in a very weird way, by soldering a RF module onto the SFC mobo and the hiding it whitin the console.
The previous owner might have disabled the CIC chip while he was at it, but wouldn't that make my PAL games work on the SFC? (they don't by the way)
And yeah i had some slow audio in the opening intro on Final Fight 2 but it stopped when i cleaned it

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:54:01 2015 No.2225436 >>2225375 >>2225384 I opened the game and cleaned the contacts with 91% isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs.

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 18:54:13 2015 No.2225438

>>2225412
>But the previous owner had modded the console in a very weird way, by soldering a RF module onto the SFC mobo and the hiding it whitin the console.
I think he just wanted PAL60 output. They are more common than you think, perhaps some kind of import store did this.
>The previous owner might have disabled the CIC chip while he was at it, but wouldn't that make my PAL games work on the SFC? (they don't by the way)
Well, a "THIS GAME IS NOT DESIGNED FOR YOUR SUPER NES/ SUPER FAMICOM" message means that the lockout is bypassed but the game detected that it runs on the wrong frequency. A 50/60hz switch should solve this.
>And yeah i had some slow audio in the opening intro on Final Fight 2 but it stopped when i cleaned it
Maybe you just had a bad contacts after all. Who knows.

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 19:03:59 2015 No.2225457

>>2225438
>Well, a "THIS GAME IS NOT DESIGNED FOR YOUR SUPER NES/ SUPER FAMICOM" message means that the lockout is bypassed but the game detected that it runs on the wrong frequency.
Hmm well none of my Pal SNES games show this when put into my SFC
>Maybe you just had a bad contacts after all. Who knows.
Yeah here's the real mystery. All the games i have gotten i have cleaned and then they work perfectly and boot up just fine. And even the games that had some Issues and glitches turned out just fine after the cleaning. It's only street fighter that acts this way, and i cleaned it over 10 times and everytime i clean it again no dirt or grime turn up on the q tips

guess i'll have too buy a gamebit and open up my console and check if the CIC chip is disabled

Anonymous Mon Feb 9 20:13:05 2015 No.2225558

>>2225332
One of the one capacitor in the cart?

>>2225349
There are one fewer special chips in this cart than there are capacitors.
Most likely some connections to the ROM containing the graphics is shitted up. Open it up and have a look. It's probably obvious spillage or corrosion. If not give the whole cart a good cleaning and it should be fine.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 20:13:54 2015 No.2225564 >>2225558 >One of the one capacitor in the cart? Ya some carts have capacitors.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 20:32:20 2015 No.2225594 >>2224638 Yes. The MegaCD also works as expected on a unmodified Megadrive.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 23:03:24 2015 No.2225912 >>2225564 And some cards have capacitor.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 9 23:07:47 2015 No.2225917 >>2225594 Guess I need to be more specific. Did the exact same MD work on the exact same MCD with the exact same flash cart and the exact same configuration before the mod?

Anonymous Tue Feb 10 09:58:37 2015 No.2226750
File: 2.63 MB, 2816x2112, DSC04045.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Got this Mega Drive withe a black screen, not even the tmss screen shows up, I noticed a weird cut trace in the board, the system is supposed to be transcoded but i never seen someone cut that specific trace before.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 10:01:09 2015 No.2226751 >>2226750 what model? board? did you try to fix the trace and test the system?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 10:20:49 2015 No.2226779 >>2226751 Japanese model 1, IC BD M5. No, i haven't try to fix the trace because i don't know how i supposed to do it, i tried to put a bit of solder in the little hole but it does not stick.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 10:32:14 2015 No.2226795 >>2226779 scrap off the solder mask (green stuff) to reveal the copper trace underneath. then bridge it, it should be small enough that a solder blob will do. just to test the console. if it fixes it, repair the trace properly.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 11:08:17 2015 No.2226846 >>2226795 Thanks, gonna try that.

Anonymous Tue Feb 10 11:34:50 2015 No.2226897
File: 916 KB, 1456x2592, IMG_20150210_131137840.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So, I got this decade old GBA SP, it broke/started showing problems two years after I got it. The problems are: it doesn't charge or turn on at all, even if I charge the battery with an universal charger and put it on the thing.
I googled to death about the problem since it first broke, and couldn't find a solution. When it started showing problems, the LED would display orange all the times, even with the battery charged. Then, it would die off completely, neither charging or turning on.

I purchased an extra battery and charger years ago, still doesn't work, same problem. The GBA has an interesting behavior, if i put a battery after a very long time unused and try to turn it on, it quickly blink a red (red, not orange) LED and then shuts off. Then, nothing ever happens again.

Suggestions?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 17:08:53 2015 No.2227513 >>2224479 if you want 1 switch, you should use a 3 position switch aka DPDT on-on-on, with correct wiring you would have access to the 3 regions while being properly wired.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 19:06:42 2015 No.2227698 >>2226897 There are 2 fuses in them, they are very small but you could bridge them with solder or a wire.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 19:16:06 2015 No.2227720 how hard is 60hz + region toggle mod for Sega megadrive 2 is?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 19:43:52 2015 No.2227780 >>2227720 Just as easy as any other MD region mod if you cut traces. A little harder if you lift pins.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 22:06:23 2015 No.2227996 >>2227513 This is exactly the mod I've made. It seems to be incompatible with the Sega CD.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 22:07:25 2015 No.2228001 >>2227996 Disregard this post, I suck cocks.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 22:38:05 2015 No.2228056 >>2226795 Nope, still doesn't work. I'm stuck whit this damn black screen.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 10 22:42:29 2015 No.2228063 Anyone have advice on getting marker off of game labels? I've heard that you can use alcohol or goo-gone but I'm afraid of damaging the label. If I had some trash sport game carts I'd try that, but I don't have anything I'd be okay with ruining.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 11 04:02:44 2015 No.2228407 File: 1.93 MB, 2938x2204, IMG_0252.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] How do I clean this bitch? Also I think the rust is literally eating through the RF Shield. 1/2

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 11 04:03:48 2015 No.2228410 File: 2.03 MB, 2938x2204, IMG_0256.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] 2/2

Anonymous Wed Feb 11 04:29:54 2015 No.2228441

>>2228063
It depends on the type of label and marker. If the label is well laminated the marker may only be on the surface of the laminate. If not it may have even soaked through the label and colored the plastic underneath. There are different types of solvents you can use depending on the type of ink used and also what's under it. You need the right polarity the dissolve the ink but not the cart. Unfortunately it's not a question of chemistry not product branding.

Anonymous Wed Feb 11 15:37:08 2015 No.2229132
File: 351 KB, 1200x900, 1420066730148.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've got a problem with my neo-geo cd, can you guys help?

I've had the console for nearly 14 years, because I was lucky enough to play Windjammers at the arcade and wanted to play that stuff so much.
Over the years, the game would begin to crash on loading screens with the message "Disc read error...". It's been happening more and more frequently, to the point where we could play like one time out of two.

Now, it just got worse: the disc is either recognized in the boot menu (track list) but there's no prompt to press start to play the game and I can't listen to the tracks, or the disc isn't recognized at all.

I have little knowledge in console repair... what do? :(

Anonymous Wed Feb 11 15:47:26 2015 No.2229146

>>2229132

I think I see the problem. You are attempting to play the games on a dog. Frankly, I'm surprised that the dog could read the discs at all.

Have you been feeding your Neo Geo and walking it daily? If so, I may have an idea as to what the problem is.

Anonymous Wed Feb 11 19:08:42 2015 No.2229449

>>2185860
I had just recently bought a Genesis, and the buttons on the controller that came with it had lost almost all of their sensitivity.

I just took it apart, gently wiped off the dust and grime on the board with a q-tip, and washed off the pads and let them air dry.

The D-Pad could be better, but I didn't do as good of a job on it. The other buttons however, work like new.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 11 19:26:52 2015 No.2229479 >>2228407 >>2228410 For the rust use navel jelly, but the rf shield doesn't really do much for the system, it's supposed to keeps the system from messing with other devices.

Anonymous Wed Feb 11 19:49:25 2015 No.2229504

>>2229449
You should clean the rubber contacts too!
I had 3 nes controllers that didn't work at all. Cleaned all the contacts (rubber and board) almost 5 times for each contact.
Now they work like new!
The only problem is that the rubber is a bit broken and some buttons don't have that "clicky" feel.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 04:35:49 2015 No.2230349 >>2229146 I could go on with the joke, but at this point I just want to be able to play windjammers again with my friends...

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 08:57:21 2015 No.2230505 File: 3.46 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_0259.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2229479 I did my best. 1/2

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 09:02:15 2015 No.2230508 File: 3.57 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_0258.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2230505 2/2

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 09:08:06 2015 No.2230514 >>2230349 does it read music CDs ?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 10:02:46 2015 No.2230572 >>2230514 Not anymore.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 10:11:25 2015 No.2230601 >>2230508 You can use sandpaper to get the rest of the rust out. Later you should paint the shield with anticorrosive primer, or it will rust again. Corrosion over the pcb can be repaired with Liquid Resins after clening it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 14:33:03 2015 No.2230980 >taking apart gameboy >Stripped screw fuck, wat do?

Anonymous Thu Feb 12 14:47:00 2015 No.2230995

>>2230980
stripped and still in the gb?

if you're talking outer case screws, being all recessed, you're best off taking a small drill bit and a dremel and drilling out the screw.

be careful you don't go too deep.

if it's an internal screw, with no recess, just dremel a slot into the head with a grinding disc/cutoff wheel.

then unscrew with your favorite slotted screwdriver.

Anonymous Thu Feb 12 14:53:24 2015 No.2231008 [DELETED]

File: 1.52 MB, 2000x2438, dkcgbc.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

i have a copy of donkey kong country for gbc, pic related
it doesn't load.
gameboy logo comes up, gargled nintendo logo and freezes there.

pretty common problem, so i open up the cart and clean the shit out of it.
>no change
hmmm, okay, reflowed all the components on the pcb
>no change
recleaned everything
>no change

i noticed that C5 was missing on the pcb, but that could be intentional.
but then again, it could have been bonked off when the previous owner may or may not have replaced the battery.

so, my question:
can anyone with dkc for gbc let me know if C5 is populated?

you don't need to open the cart, you can see it directly under the top right corner of the label.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 12 17:15:39 2015 No.2231242 >>2230980 Glue something to the screw. Pull out while unscrewing. Apply pressure to and side. Unscrew as lower threads on that side are now firmly contacting the plastic.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 03:21:55 2015 No.2231954
File: 282 KB, 600x517, Untitled-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Does anyone have an experience repairing pins on cartridges? Can it be done? I got pic related for cheap, but when I got home I noticed one of the pins was missing. I don't have the heart to return it just yet.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 03:23:36 2015 No.2231957 >>2231954 Does it work?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 03:25:41 2015 No.2231959 >>2231957 It does not, unfortunately. I get a garbed N͞i̴̩̦̘ͅn͖͉̮̹̬̮t̶̜͖̞̼̥͖̖e̝n̶̦̪d̷̙͔͚o̼̞̤̳͕̝ and that's it.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 04:53:19 2015 No.2231992

>>2231954
I've done it but never got anything close to as sturdy as an original finger. It's pretty basic. Solder some foil to the trace, glue it down and smooth it off.

Ideally you want foil the same thickness. In reality you'll be lucky to get your hands on 120 gauge and probably have to settle for something thinner. There are different types of boards made of different materials and different types of adhesives will stick to some better than others. You'll probably want to practice with something easy to remove to begin with anyway.

Honestly it's really worth it unless your cart is worth a lot.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 08:25:11 2015 No.2232141 I wish to mod my 7800 to have Composite video out. I have little to no experience with electronics and soldering. Has anyone here done the AV mod for the 7800, and is it a good idea to try and do with being inexperienced solderer.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 08:59:54 2015 No.2232170 >>2231992 >on 120 gauge and probably have to settle for something thinner Wat? I've been working with electronics for ages what the fuck is 120awg? How fucking high are you

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 10:41:40 2015 No.2232263 >>2231954 conductive copper tape even 3 mil is probably thin enough to work fine. >>2232170 120 gauge is like 1.2 mil

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 14:35:28 2015 No.2232536
File: 1.95 MB, 2448x3264, CAM00163.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I hear a loud buzzing noise when the audio is quiet and the screen bright. Though I only have this problem with my SNES and PS1. It's obviously the SCART cable, but what exatly is wrong with it? Pic related is the one of the PS1

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 14:36:35 2015 No.2232540 File: 1.53 MB, 2448x3264, CAM00166.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2232536 And the one of the SNES.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 14:44:39 2015 No.2232546

>>2232536
The problem is that the cables are not shielded. SCART has separate ground pairs for so many signals (separate ground for composite, audio, each one of the RGB pins), because you are meant to run those grounds as copper/aluminium sheaths around the actual data pin.

Just simply wiring all pins up is not the same as shielding the signal itself, but most cheap Scart cables (including aftermarket RGB cables for consoles) just do this anyway, because it is cheap.

And if you don't have decent shielding, you get a lot of crosstalk. Whenever the screen gets brighter, the RGB cables get a stronger signal, and their signal creeps into the audio cables, causing a buzzing noise. On bad cables you can also see ghosting on the video because the RGB cables get polluted as well.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 15:23:28 2015 No.2232583 >>2232546 Thanks. That cleared it up.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 15:55:34 2015 No.2232621 >>2232546 >>2232583 By the way is there a certain way to know which cables are good before buying them? Like say: Needs to be above >$? I'm a Yuro so I only can get things from Ebay.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 16:09:52 2015 No.2232640

>>2232540
>>2232536
No shielding and damn those are some trash solder work.
>>2232621
What you want are shielded cables. The width or amount of insulation isn't that important. Think vga cable. What's important is shielding.

Ideally you would want stuff shrink wrapped too but that's not needed.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 16:09:53 2015 No.2232641

>>2232621
retro gaming cables is a reliable source and is in the uk. i just got a m2 genesis and an ntsc snes RGB Scart cable from them. 8 days delivered to the northeastern USA.

on ebay just look for the ones that say fully shielded, in the description you'll usually find "NOT LIKE THE OTHER CRAP ON EBAY" etc

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 17:13:36 2015 No.2232674 >>2232641 >"NOT LIKE THE OTHER CRAP ON EBAY" Funny, the SNES cable seller said that. I got that one from Consolegoods.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 17:47:07 2015 No.2232718

>>2232536
that cable is missing fast blanking (1-3v to pin16). If your tv doesn't have RGB selection (extremely rare, different from av selection), you'll only see composite video.
connect a resistor between 8 and 16, value should be between 75 and 180 ohm.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 18:12:54 2015 No.2232732 how hard is it to mod a saturn?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 18:17:05 2015 No.2232737 >>2232732 Like a modchip? You'll need to be confident enough in your soldering skills to handle fine pitch legs.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 18:41:41 2015 No.2232751
File: 2.22 MB, 1560x2500, Gameboy_Pocket.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Is it possible to make a battery LED on a Game Boy Pocket like this one in the pic?

It's the one I had since I was a kid, but the screen protector is scratched as fuck and the only replacements I can find are the black ones.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 18:48:36 2015 No.2232756 >>2232674 The scart cables at consolegoods are trash. I got one, fully unshielded. Had ghosting and buzzing up the wazoo.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 18:53:57 2015 No.2232763

>>2232732
>>2232737
What are you talking about. Your typical saturn modchip only requires soldering one wire to 5V on the transformer board and sometimes bridging some pins on the modchip itself depending on what revision of Saturn you have.

The rest just plugs in via cables between the motherboard and the disc drive.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 19:29:02 2015 No.2232792 >>2232763 I think that's probably what he was talking about. Not everyone is good at soldering, getting that one power wire in there is pretty difficult for some (I've seen a lot of burned to hell power supply connectors).

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 19:46:03 2015 No.2232806 >>2232641 What's a good one for PS1?

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 19:47:24 2015 No.2232807

>>2232170
Not high enough to shoot my mouth off without knowing what I'm talking about.

>>2232732
Easy. I can confirm >>2232737 is full of shit and >>2232763 is correct.

>>2232751
>battery LED
Do you mean power LED? If so yes. If not. What do you mean by battery LED?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 19:49:02 2015 No.2232809 >>2232807 >is full of shit You're an idiot. Have you even held an iron?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 19:54:06 2015 No.2232812 Do any sites sell replacement backlit gameboy SP screens, or would I just have to buy another gameboy SP and perform a transplant?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 22:02:51 2015 No.2232949 >>2231992 >>2232263 I shall try this. Thanks for the input guys.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 22:05:01 2015 No.2232951

>>2232809
Yes, and I've modded dozens of consoles including several saturns. Anyone who's modded a saturn knows you just plug in the ribbon cables. You can solder one power wire if you don't want to just stuff it into the header on the PSU.
Now stop embarrassing yourself by flaunting your age and inexperience and either find something to contribute or lurk moar.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 22:13:46 2015 No.2232959

>>2232951
A secure connection to you is "just stuff it into the header."
That's why I stick to doing my own mod work.

Also not all mod chips are the same. They're all obsolete now anyway but if you must have one then I guess the one you're talking about is best. Still requires you to solder power. Or you can go full hack and just stuff that shit somewhere.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 22:42:43 2015 No.2232996

>>2232959
The header is a secure enough connection for the Saturn designers to trust it to supply power to the entire system. And as I said you can always solder. To a nice large point. There are no "fine pitch legs" involved.

Please share with us how mod chips are obsolete. What alternative should we be using instead that offers the same compatibility with games and systems.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 22:46:56 2015 No.2233005

>>2232996
Idk about your Saturn but SEGA seemed to have enough sense to use pins in the header and not just shove in wires.
>Please share with us how mod chips are obsolete. What alternative should we be using instead that offers the same compatibility with games and systems.
Rhea

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 23:15:11 2015 No.2233019

>>2233005
Nice try at trying to change the subject to divert from your ignorant statements. I never said you couldn't solder. I did say you didn't need to solder to "fine pitch legs" like you did.
At any rate I'm sure by now you've proven to anyone reading that you don't know what you're talking about. Mission accomplished.

Pics of your Rhea running in your 21 pin saturn. Also pic of the receipt with $100 discount to bring the price in line with a mod chip. Or does price not matter to ignorant smug dicks?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 13 23:17:23 2015 No.2233020 >>2233019 Bitching about price and not having Model 2 compatibility. Nice. Go jam more wires into shit while saying I don't have a clue.

Anonymous Fri Feb 13 23:59:46 2015 No.2233063

I ended up with a lot more chips than PSXs to mod so I decided to find some other things to do with them. One thing I made was a simple auto fire circuit that I stuck in a game boy. It's pretty basic. You press A+B+Start and then a button to activate/deactivate auto fire on that button. I was thinking that with a few more I/O pins I could add something to adjust the speed of the auto fire with the dpad and add support for consoles/controllers with more buttons. Maybe a discrete "turbo" button instead of the key combination to activate as well.
Any thoughts or suggestions?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 00:32:53 2015 No.2233096 >>2233020 Are you going to offer any support for your claims that mod chips require soldering fine pitch legs and are obsolete or just keep shitting up the thread by deflecting and trying to change the subject? Pics of your Rhea running in anything?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 01:05:40 2015 No.2233138 >>2233096 How young are you? The first mod chips required all sorts of weird shit.

Anonymous Sat Feb 14 02:05:32 2015 No.2233179

>>2233138
So that's a no on both backing up your claims and showing us your Rhea?
The first cars required you to crank the engine in order to start them. That doesn't mean someone who wants to start a car today needs cranking skills to work with fine pitched cranks.
You're really stretching with your pathetic attempts to justify one stupid post that will be gone and forgotten in a few days.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 02:09:44 2015 No.2233182 >>2233138 Please shit up threads elsewhere.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 03:17:38 2015 No.2233226 >>2232641 Retro Gaming Cables doesn't ground the RGB grounds (SCART pins 5, 9, and 13) on their SCART to BNC adapters, just a heads up. It was an easy fix, but still.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 07:25:01 2015 No.2233435 >>2233226 Thanks for the heads up, I'll eventually hunt down that pvm... That reminds me, Anyone have a source for scart plugs? I wanted to make my own cables but couldn't find cheap plugs under qty100.

Anonymous Sat Feb 14 12:38:33 2015 No.2233727

>>2233182
>>2233179
Trying really hard to justify your shit. It's funny how you hacks get so worked uped over your stupid shit. If you want to jam wires into shit instead of properly soldering them and then claim headers on the Saturn's power supply were meant for wires to be jammed go for it. I'll stick to not being a hack job.

Also funny how your making such a big deal out of the fine pitch comment. It's not like that kind of soldering is very hard. Well maybe for the "jam that shit it in" crowd it is.
>>2233435
Only place I found is ebay. I know the guy who makes the PC Engine cables just buys male to male or male to female cables to chop the connectors off and build his own.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 15:33:01 2015 No.2234031 What's a good place for a yuro to get a PS1 RGB cable? (With shielding and al the jizz)

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 16:41:48 2015 No.2234128 >>2234031 Either an official one or if you want one better wait for retro console accessories to put out another batch of sync on luma PS1 cables. I got one and it works great with my xrgb 3. (after plugging into a jp 21 converter of course)

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 18:21:30 2015 No.2234275 >>2181139 pretty sure it's just generic thermal paste, go to a computer store and buy arctic silver.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 18:44:48 2015 No.2234302 >>2234275 Grease wont work. I learned that the thermal pads are needed. Still need to order some.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 19:23:43 2015 No.2234339 >>2234128 Do they also have CSync ones?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 19:28:16 2015 No.2234342 >>2234339 PlayStation has no c sync. If you need csync then you can get composite video or luma sync cable and add a sync stripper.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 21:47:51 2015 No.2234557 File: 110 KB, 167x459, lubricating-oil[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Is liquid wrench good to use as an electronic lubricant?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 14 22:21:45 2015 No.2234623 >>2234557 What are you lubing?

Anonymous Sun Feb 15 14:26:52 2015 No.2235370

Got a question about a PSP 3000,
I replaced the caseing on it and now that right trigger seems extremely sensitive. So much as placing the button back on top of it is causing it to become activated. I can't use the home button or any thing that requires typing something in and any kind of shooter or game that uses the R trigger (Trying to play Disidia) is right out.
Any thoughts on making the trigger less sensitive?
(This was the only repair general I could find so I hope I'm in the right place, even though PSP isn't that old)

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 14:48:33 2015 No.2235413 Can anyone rec a good tabletop air compressor? Canned air has its limitations and the expense is frustrating. I want to find an alternative.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 14:57:01 2015 No.2235429 >>2234557 No use electronics cleaners ONLY.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 17:48:32 2015 No.2235718 Can you use an NES AC Adapter with a Super Famicom?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 17:52:34 2015 No.2235723 >>2235718 No. Needs 10VDC and the plug will probably not fit.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 17:54:35 2015 No.2235726 >>2235723 I know the SNES one doesn't fit, but my Sega CD/ NES adapter does. I might just buy one off ebay, but that'll cost me more than what I bought my system for in the first place. Ah well

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 18:20:35 2015 No.2235758 Is it safe to hook something like a Japanese Saturn into 120v American wall socket? Normally I play for less than an hour but I do occasionally go for long stretches of hours on the weekends. Seems that 20v difference wouldn't be much.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 18:22:15 2015 No.2235761 >>2235726 >my Sega CD/ NES adapter Please don't tell me you use this one adapter for both of those things.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 18:52:41 2015 No.2235823 >>2177894 Jumping into a thread I don't know much about, but why the audio splitter?

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Sun Feb 15 18:55:56 2015 No.2235830 >>2235823 Because that's a headphone jack, and judging by the yellow RCA cable laying next to it, he wants stereo audio that can be fed into a TV/amp rather than headphones.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 18:55:59 2015 No.2235831 >>2235823 His TV doesn't have a 3.5mm input probably. Though it is odd since the usually thing is to get right/left split off from the av connector.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 15 18:59:40 2015 No.2235837 >>2235830 >>2235831 Thanks, didn't notice it was 3.5mm to RCA, assumed it was male 3.5mm to female splitter.

Anonymous Sun Feb 15 20:29:32 2015 No.2235941

>>2235413
"Canned air" isn't air. If you compress regular air to the same pressure as the gas used you'll get a few second of spray. If you compress the same volume of air in the same volume container you'll have >9000 PSI and will probably blast components off the board.

The alternative is to compress filtered air to a reasonable pressure in a container large enough to hold enough of it to be useful. A 1 gal hobby compressor isn't that. If you can live with the limited capacity and the constant noise it makes while refilling that limited capacity then you might be able to get by with one. I have one, have tried it, and don't use it for this.

If you don't already have one it's not at all economical. A decent compressor with filter will cost you at least $100. That's 25 cans of "canned air" bought individually. God knows how many if you bought $100 worth in bulk. Someone who needs that much air won't balk at the price for the convenience. If you stop using your "canned air" to scare your cat a few cans will last you a year.

>>2235758
Not a problem. Most of the components in the Japanese PSU are rated for roughly double that. I run my Japanese Saturns off 120 all the time and have done for years.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 02:20:02 2015 No.2236494

Hello, I understand this isn't retro but I don't know what other board to look for help. I recently rebuilt my Wii as someone spilled soda on it about a year ago. Using the regular wii menu trying to run netflix would say "An error accored while accessing Wii system memory". It was modded with letterbomb but I lost the sdcard and recently took it apart and re-modded it with letterbomb/HBC which work perfectly. It is completely disassembled and I was wondering what I should look for. I noticed there was a place for a battery like on a dekstop mobo or laptop but none of mine fit. Otherwise, it works homebrew perfectly. Any suggestions?

I just wanted to use it for a lightgun game system with House of the dead overkill and the Resident Evil Chronicle gamees. I have overkill but have yet to only find PAL versions of Chronicles. Any help would be appriciated regarding the error or the games. Thanks.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 05:54:10 2015 No.2236635 >>2236494 Yeah. Not retro, hardly any relevant information to help diagnose and no one is going to appreciate shitting up the thread with this. Maybe try /v/ even though they're a bag of dicks.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 08:08:47 2015 No.2236773
File: 116 KB, 800x600, gcb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

THAT'S NOT RETRO Sorry to post it here, but I suspect I won't get response to this on /v/.

I picked up a Game Cube this afternoon, mostly because it came with 6 controllers. What's a good game to test all the buttons? For example, if I had SNES pads, I might use Street Fighter II since every button has a quick, noticeable effect on screen.

Do Mad Catz/Gamestop pads have a tendency to fail in some common aspect? Of the 3 wired controllers, the B button on 2 of them didn't work, and i have to press really hard on the third for it to respond.

Do the Mad Catz/Gamestop wireless controllers automatically pair up to the first available transceiver? That's the impression I got but wasn't too sure. If it does, good to know because I can now buy loose wireless controllers knowing they're not factory paired.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 08:25:46 2015 No.2236789

>>2236773

If you have a melee scene in your area, have some of the locals try out the controllers to see if the controllers are still good.

Mad Catz are shit, the only thing consistent is that they are inconsistent, I had one turn off gamecube after a random amount of time and another one actually caught fire.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 08:44:45 2015 No.2236802

>>2232996
>Please share with us how mod chips are obsolete.

All the old v1-v2-v3-consolegoods-racketboy-emsic-etc chips are obsolete. The Phantom chips are superior and have 100% compatibility, the old chips all have spotty and random compatibility - sometimes requiring a signal cable as well.

>>2233019
>Pics of your Rhea running in your 21 pin saturn.

Not that guy but chances are I could get it working, but I cannot be arsed to make a ribbon pinout converter.

>Or does price not matter to ignorant smug dicks?

Oh, go play on an emulator if price is so important to you.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 09:09:34 2015 No.2236847 So what's the issues with something like the universal modchip for saturn? I've never had any compatibility issues and it was so easy to install that I didn't even need to solder it (just wrap the wire around the 5V pin and you're good)

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 09:16:56 2015 No.2236857

>>2236847
>So what's the issues with something like the universal modchip for saturn?

The Phantom universal chip is good (needs an extra connection soldered for Sanyo drives though).

All the other universal chips are not really universal.

>I didn't even need to solder it (just wrap the wire around the 5V pin and you're good)

That's potentially dangerous.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 10:38:11 2015 No.2236937 >>2229132 sounds like the laser needs replacement. try cleaning it first with alcohol

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 10:39:05 2015 No.2236939 >>2219217 This is why it's not worth selling any of my stuff on ebay.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 11:15:15 2015 No.2236967

>>2236789
>I had one turn off gamecube after a random amount of time
I had a similar experience with an BigBen one.
It was a short from power (don't know if 3.3V or 5V) to ground near the plug.

>and another one actually caught fire.
Holy shit.
I wasn't aware that the 5V rail is that strong.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 15:05:59 2015 No.2237342

>>2180853
I know it's not really retro but one of the things I'd be using it for would be playing PS1 games and I don't know where else to ask, so, I want to put Free McBoot on my PS2. I'm looking at the swap trick, and it says Smackdown v. Raw 2006 could work but is unconfirmed.

Has anyone used that game for the swap trick and did it work for you? I'm not sure how I'd get the 007 game since all the rental places I used to be able to go to have since shut down.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 15:30:04 2015 No.2237378

>>2237342
if you have a fat ps2 you can get the hdd/network adapter and flash a drive image to the HDD.

no need for freemcboot anymore. no need for anything except a compatible HDD and the HDD/Network adapter.

http://www.theisozone.com/downloads/playstation/tools/48-bit-hdd-osd-110-and-preinstalled-applications/

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 15:42:29 2015 No.2237395 >>2237378 It's a slim PS2 unfortunately. I also only have a thumb drive laying around at the moment.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 16:25:01 2015 No.2237461 >>2237395 Are there any equivalent methods for PS2 slim? Or is Free McBoot the best we can do?

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 16:25:36 2015 No.2237462 >>2207752 How much does Drakon charge for a RGB mod?

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 17:27:51 2015 No.2237564

>>2237462
jesus christ, don't ever let Drakon ever touch your hardware. he sucks at modding and all of his "fixes" are snake oil at best

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47910&start=30
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QMH-xp-WtI

do not pass go do not pay drakon eight billion dollars to trash your console

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 18:45:40 2015 No.2237742

>>2236802
Thanks for confirming mod chips aren't obsolete.

That guy didn't have a Rhea. He probably only found out about it when he was desperately googling to find out how to install a mod chip after making an ass of himself.

I've got plenty of Saturns to play on and the ones that are modded work just fine. I'll just use those.
No compatibility problems whatsoever so my old mod chips must not obsolete. Probably best to avoid blanket statements like that.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 21:20:39 2015 No.2238120

My PSX has stopped spinning discs. The Sony logo appears and then gets stuck.

I'm guessing it'll need a drive replacement. Will this one do the trick?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Replacement-OPTICAL-LASER-LENS-Pickup-for-SONY-PlayStation-PS1-KSM-440ADM-NEW-/321543276474?pt=UK_VG_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item4add7907ba

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 21:35:36 2015 No.2238150 >>2237342 Bumping this sort-of; I noticed researching this problem that apparently a lot of games don't work on slim PS2s; are there any games besides 007 Agent Under Fire that are confirmed to work on slims?

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:05:40 2015 No.2238206

>>2238150
Okay now I'm panicking; I'm retarded and somehow when taking off my cover I can't get it to power on anymore. The red light still appears when plugged in so it's not completely detatched but something happened to the button.

How fucked am I? Is there an easy fix? I push the power button and it doesn't change from red to green.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:23:35 2015 No.2238247
File: 139 KB, 1024x768, EMSIC3 back.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2237742
>No compatibility problems whatsoever so my old mod chips must not obsolete.

Okay, now get 5 different Saturns that use 5 different drives, and try and test that modchip in each one of them. If you are lucky the chip will work in half. And sometimes two identical modchips may not work in the exact same unit either, since they are built out of scavenged parts from China: the microcontrollers on them use different code, despite the chips looking the same.

>He probably only found out about it when he was desperately googling to find out how to install a mod chip after making an ass of himself.

No, he is right. The older Saturn modchips are all pieces of trash, and sometimes require lots of bullshit just to get them working. Up to and including: soldering a signal wire, cutting traces, soldering jumpers (multiple ones), changing entire components off the chip (74157 to a 74158), adding extra resistors, or rewiring the entire damn chip so it works with 20pin drives.

The Phantom chip is the only one that has some resemblance of compatibility, and even that one needs an extra fix on some drives.

Compared to that clusterfuck, Rhea is WAY superior. And loads many games faster too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:26:23 2015 No.2238251 >>2235941 But its fun to scare the cat. Thanks for the input. I can live with buying cans 10 at a time if it keeps me from spraying components like a super soaker.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:26:39 2015 No.2238252 >>2238247 Don't bother man. The guy is a hack. I think I'm going to order a second Rhea very soon. The new version requires no soldering.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:27:33 2015 No.2238257 >>2237462 Guy, I was joking about drakon when I linked you to this thread. I'd let Helen Keller mod my consoles before that hack.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:33:29 2015 No.2238270 >>2219213 >>2221265 Seconding caps. after running into similar issues on at least two that ive picked up in the past cap replacement has become part of my cleaning routine when I pick up another junker to resell.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:33:46 2015 No.2238271 >>2238252 Yeah, I bet he lives in brazil.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:37:14 2015 No.2238282

>>2238271
The amount of beaners on /vr/ is really surprising.
Now if the damn PSIO people would hurry up with the PlayStation drive replacement.

Have you done full cap replacements on a Saturn? Was wondering how hard it would be to remove the tray close stand/post thing since that would make it a lot easier to reach those caps in that area. I may be able to get around it with some new tips for my iron though.

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:39:38 2015 No.2238287

>>2238206
Probably just didn't reseat the switch properly. Relatively easy to overlook when resealing the shell.

Yeah, should be easy fix. Open that bad boy back up and make sure that the switch is seated in the carriage slot and that no wires has come loose. If they ARE loose, resolder, reseat, reseal. If that doesn't work it will need more attention.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 22:48:08 2015 No.2238298 >>2238287 The wire ribbon thing seems tight. The button still won't turn the console on. I even tried turning it on with the shell off and it's not doing anything when pressed.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 23:06:45 2015 No.2238316 File: 116 KB, 640x868, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2238298 It probably won't help but I tried taking a picture with my laptop camera (sorry, it's literally the only one I have lying around). It's in its proper place.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 16 23:33:49 2015 No.2238368 >>2238316 Hard to say without seeing it directly. Here's a quickie you might try www.gaminggenerations.com/tutorials/57/1-t810/

Anonymous Mon Feb 16 23:41:35 2015 No.2238382

>>2238316
Give it a spin on goog, there are a handful of solutions and approaches and I definitely wouldn't recommend half of them but a few will give you the desired results.

The main thing to keep in mind is that if it was working before and isn't now, then at some point a (probably minor) bump or jostle has severed the switch's connection. This is likely around the wire ribbon attaching the switch to the board.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 07:17:02 2015 No.2238865

>>2238282
>Have you done full cap replacements on a Saturn?

Not yet, though I have a unit that may need it (either the motherboard or the power supply).

>Was wondering how hard it would be to remove the tray close stand/post thing

About as difficult as removing the through-hole electrolytic caps. You can do it with desolder braid, or a solder sucker.

For quick recapping, I'd recommend getting a desolder gun. You can recap the entire board in minutes with those.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 11:42:44 2015 No.2239178
File: 50 KB, 720x479, nes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2176501

So I'm doing a total cleaning & repair of a friend's Nintendo & I've done the following

>cut pin that causes NES blinking
>replace 72 pin connector
>cleaned all his NEs cartridge contacts

Anything else I should do? I noticed the ENS has one Huge Capacitor. Would it be advisable to de-solder it & replace it with a new one?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 17 11:48:45 2015 No.2239184 >>2239178 Clean the original 72 pin connector and put it back in.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 17 11:53:22 2015 No.2239191 >>2239178 There was a site I used for new parts. It was nintendorepairstore or nintendorepair shop. Did it go out of business? This was a few years back.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 11:57:38 2015 No.2239202

>>2239178
>cut pin that causes NES blinking
you dense motherfucker

why do people do this?

it blinks because there's bad contact between the game and the console. it's resetting itself in attempt to boot the game.
cutting pin 4 on the lockout chip only inhibits the NES from trying to boot games that don't work right away, requiring you to manually power off or reset.

unless you're playing imports, then disregard.
yeah, i'm mad

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:00:10 2015 No.2239206 >>2239202 It's the lead to the Anti Piracy chip isn't it? I could always retrace the lead, but the system seems to play games better with it cut.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:05:02 2015 No.2239217

>>2239206
it prevents bootlegs from booting as well as out of region games, unless said games have a matching chip on it's pcb.
cutting it doesn't do change the way the games play.

if your NES is flashing, then your contacts are dirty as fuck (best case)

booting a game that doesn't load the first time on an NES with a cut pin 4 will result in a blank screen... instead of the NES knowing it's fubar and resets to get the game to boot again.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:06:40 2015 No.2239220

>>2239217

Alright then, I'm going to go ahead & restore that pin then.

Anything else you recommend? You said I shouldn't replace the 72 pin connector. Is there a reason for that?

If you want me to clean the original, how would I go about doing this & why?

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:10:16 2015 No.2239227

>>2239220
>You said I shouldn't replace the 72 pin connector
that was another anon, but i agree.

the new ones online are deathgrips. i had one for a while, thinking it wasn't a big deal since i only have my n8 in the NES but has slightly damaged the contacts on my expensive edn8.
it's better to refurbish the original one. rebend the pins and clean the shit out of it.

i've always been cautious of the videos of people boiling them, i wouldn't do it, but people said it works.

i'd google up one of the million pin bending guides and grab a safety pin and get going.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:12:10 2015 No.2239234 >>2239227 >the new ones online are deathgrips. Same thing I experienced with the one I got from eBay. Does ANYONE produce ones that are decent quality or is it all the same shit?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 17 12:13:52 2015 No.2239237 >>2239234 i remember there being a guy that sold refurbished ones on ebay. he even sold half price 'halfurbished' ones that would only work if left in the up position or something. okay okay, i made up 'halfurbished' but it sounds cool.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Feb 17 13:11:59 2015 No.2239334

>>2239227
>I've always been cautious of the videos of people boiling them, i wouldn't do it, but people said it works.
It took a system that wouldn't read at all for the past several years despite numerous cleanings and pin readjustments and turned it into one that reads every time whether it's pressed down or not.

I would be careful about leaving it sit on the bottom of the pot though. Best way to handle it would be to have it suspended in the water with a colander or something.

>>2239217
If you're going to disable the 10NES, you should do the 2 wire bypass rather than cut the pin any way. The former is much easier to reverse than the latter.

Anonymous Tue Feb 17 21:48:10 2015 No.2240247

>>2238247
I'm sure there are shit chips out there and am sorry you've only had experience with those. The ones I have are good quality and not made from scavenged parts. I'll continue to use them just like I'll continue to use my Astro City, despite it also being obsolete, to play games that are obsolete. That is, after all, why most of us are here.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Feb 17 22:34:32 2015 No.2240306

I'm trying to tap csync on my scph-1001 and wire it to the composite video RCA jack already on the board.

To do this, I know I need to cut a trace that feeds said RCA jack and wire it up to the csync line.

Gamesx ( http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:playstation_1_sync ) shows this done to a 5001, which has a simple wire run from pin 20 to cvid on the multi out, but a look at the 1645's data sheet suggests that pin 20 outputs composite video, not composite sync.

Does the encoder switch from cvid to csync when an RGB signal is being pulled or is this guide incorrect?

If it does switch modes, would a modification like this even be necessary? I just know I need "raw" csync, and can't really get a sync stripper at the moment.

Anonymous Wed Feb 18 14:41:20 2015 No.2241612
File: 35 KB, 497x640, 1408454314649.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2240306
i wish i could help you kya but i don't know.

i'm just posting this because i think it would be a fucking blast to rip open some consoles and crts with you, a few beers and some bud.

not to suck your dick too much, but you're a cool tripfag.

no homo.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 18 14:46:15 2015 No.2241621 NEW THREAD: >>2241620 NEW THREAD: >>2241620 NEW THREAD: >>2241620

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 18 20:37:16 2015 No.2242312 Does anyone know of a list of GB carts with save batteries, and what size battery each game has? I need to replace the battery in my Wario Land.

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