/vr/ - Retro Games

[Anonymous No.1749892]

Why does this happens with my copy of Pokèmon yellow?
I have a Blue version that has similar glitches, making the games unplayable..

[Anonymous No.1749894]

Does it happen on any other console?
Check the contacts, they may have corroded a bit.

[Anonymous No.1749906]

Dirty contacts or bad solder on the rom chips inside the cart.
If you can try to add some fresh solder to them, it's worked for me when they are not loading or glitched.

[Anonymous No.1749917]

>>1749894
I tried on my Gameboy Color and the Advance SP.. Both gave this glitch on every sprite!
>>1749906
I'll open it up later, I need to change the battery, too. What should I check for?

[Anonymous No.1749935]

>>1749917
Just the 2 large chips have to have fresh solder applied.
I've seen the legs come loose on those chips, and just reheating them can sometimes work.

[Anonymous No.1749953]

>>1749917
These 2 chips.

[Anonymous No.1750526]

>>1749953
This is it.. Couldn't find anything loose, even if it seems that someone had a lot of fun with this copy of Pokèmon yellow

[Anonymous No.1750654]

>>1750526
Is Pokemon Yellow even supposed to be a gloptop?

[Anonymous No.1750685]

>>1750526
Yellow is fake. Nintendo doesn't use soldermask on their part names, there is no groundplane on the fake one, Nintendo doesn't use gloptop in gameboy carts, there are no decoupling caps on the fake one, the gold plating on the fake one is poor, etc.

[Anonymous No.1752991]

>>1750685
This. Your yellow is fake as shit.

[Anonymous No.1753126]

>>1750685
Not OP but I have no idea what any of what you just said means, care for a definition of each of those terms?

[Anonymous No.1753156]

>>1753126
Look at the image in >>1750526
Left is official made by Nintendo, right is fake.
First of all the soldermask is the green stuff you see on the circuit boards. Bare copper is orange/yellow. All the parts on both circuit boards are labeled (meaning they have an identifier, for example R1 = resistor 1, C1 = capacitor 1, etc). Both manufacturers used copper to label the parts, but Nintendo does not apply soldermask on their part names (hence they appear yellow/orange on the real cart and green on the fake one).

The next thing is the groundplane. Good circuit board designers typically use what is called a groundplane to fill up excess space on the circuit board. This is basically a large area of copper which is all connected to the system ground. It has alot of advantages in terms of signal integrity, emc, etc. You can see the groundplane on the real cart starting on the right side of the cart (where it is labeled GND). The fake cart has no ground plane.

Next, gloptop are the shiny blobs you see on the fake cart. Most integrated circuits use what is called a package to encapsulate the silicon die which actually contains the circuit, but it is cheaper to just put the die straight onto the circuit board and apply a blob of resin to encapsulate it. You will see this kind of stuff in mass-produced cheap electronics like calculators or birthday cards. Afaik Nintendo never used gloptop, at least not in their gameboy carts.

Decoupling caps are capacitors which are used to reduce HF noise and ground bounce on the supply lines. They are placed close to each chip. The fake one does not have any decoupling caps to save money.

Finally, Nintendo uses gold plating on the copper contacts because copper corrodes and it would result in bad contact between the gameboy cart and the cart slot. If you compare the bottom side of both carts where the contacts are, you can clearly see that the left one has a nice thick layer of gold plating one it whereas the right one is not.

[Anonymous No.1753214]

>>1750526
As shitty as it is that you have a fake copy of yellow, that is a pretty badass looking battery holder.

Motherfucker is strapped in there for some fucking POKEMANS.