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/vr/ - Retro Games

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1743791 No.1743791 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

previous thread: >>1709638

These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.

Cheers! /crt/ go go go!


>> No.1743806
File: 799 KB, 2304x1728, 100_1399.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Zero Wing on my Sony KV-14M1B.

Man I love Toaplan shooters!

>> No.1743830

Terranigma on my PVM-20M4A via RGB on my SNES.

What can you guys tell me about degaussing coils/wands? My PVM's degauss function just doesn't seem to cut it.

>Man I love Toaplan shooters!

Damn right you do.

>> No.1743834
File: 1.25 MB, 2104x1516, IMAG0595_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


I am a dunce. Here's the pic.

>> No.1743847
File: 1.57 MB, 3264x2448, 20140706_101003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's my Sony Trinitron 16:9 36" that I picked up used for $35. Minor issue with the picture, in that it's rotated slightly counterclockwise. Other than that, great picture. Anybody know anything about calibrating CRT's?

It's really a wonderful set if I could get it to work, because it's got all the inputs, even DVI. I have it hooked up to my PC to play emulated titles.

>> No.1743852

>What can you guys tell me about degaussing coils/wands?
How to: Ghetto Degaussing
>take crt in need of degaussing
>take another crt that degausses properly
>position the monitors as close as possible so that the screens face each other
>turn on monitor with shit/weak degaussing
>turn on the other monitor, if it doesn't automatically degauss on startup then degauss it manually
>stuffs happens
for a truly nigger rigged solution to degaussing, and also general crt repair such as fixing semi-permanent discoloration you can use an electric drill and a really strong magnet.

>> No.1743859
File: 930 KB, 200x133, 1362016220792.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>mfw that's the case I used to have my PC in

Only changed because I couldn't fit this stupid 770 in it. Solid case.

>> No.1743872

>an electric drill and a really strong magnet.


>> No.1743905

What exactly is degaussing for?

>> No.1743908

Removing permanent (i.e., not electro-) magnetic fields.

>> No.1743916

I am sorry for this question, since I am very new to CRTs, but would it be harmful to not remove them?

>> No.1743923


Well it's disturbing the picture, so even if it wasn't harmful, it would be pretty bad to look at.

>> No.1743943
File: 495 KB, 2064x1548, 20140706_091726.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I managed to snag a 20" KV-20FV300 Trinitron for $10 at Goodwill. It has the best still image I've ever seen in a CRT. But bright on dark colors in motion cause ghosting that would make 2003 LCD look good. I tried to capture it in this picture, but it really doesn't even show the half of it.

Is this normal, or is there something I can fiddle around with in the service menu to fix it?

Speaking of service menu, is there any way to get in there without the remote? Because like most Goodwill TVs, this didn't come with one. Even if the bluring isn't an issue that can/needs fixing, I'd still like to get in the service menu to change the image size to completely eliminate overscan.

>> No.1743953

CRTs generally "ghost" during motion due the phosphors, but it should not be that noticeable. Try turning down the brightness. I know camera shots don't display CRT pictures well, but at least from that shot, it looks to me like you have it set way too high.

>> No.1743968

There are a couple remotes for it on amazon that are practically free before standard shipping fees.


>> No.1744151


Okay, so here's the deal.

CRTs use electrons fired at phosphors on the front of the screen to display the image. The phosphors glow when they are struck by the electrons.

The electron guns only aim at the center of the screen, so CRTs possess what is know as a deflection coil to guide the electrons across the screen. Electrons are attracted to the electromagnetic fields generated by the coil.

External magnetic fields can disturb the path of the electron, causing color distortion. The degauss alleviates the distortion caused by weaker background fields. If you do something stupid like putting unshielded speakers next to your TV or sticking a magnet near it, the built-in degauss isn't going to do a whole lot and you'll need a special tool called a degaussing coil to fix it.

>> No.1744360

What's the best way to hook up a PC to a CRT TV? Is there a way to do it without lag?

>> No.1744372

I have a problem with a Sega Saturn RGB SCART cable. Displaying RGB looks great but I seem to be getting some interference in the way of faint diagonal patterns like an untuned image that causes some lines to flicker horizontally and looks to be slightly affected when the disc drive is seeking. Using the same cable but plugged in to a port without RGB support I get a composite picture without any of the interference (albeit a lot of dot-crawl).

Is the composite video affecting the RGB but not vice-versa? Any ideas how I might go about fixing this?

>> No.1744519

Some CRT TV have VGA ports. Others have component. Some even have HDMI.
Those would be the best since they're basically just direct connections.
You could of course always just convert VGA or some other signal type to whatever the fuck your TV likes to eat.
Though adapters tend to be either expensive, hard to find or shit. Usually at least two of those.
Of course more often than not you're mostly limited by your GPU these days. Older GPU often have S-Video and/or Composite. Slightly newer ones have component.
Latest GPU tend to have VGA as the only analog signal, if even that.
TL;DR VGA>Component>HDMI>Any of the above converted>S-Video>composite>RF

>> No.1744520


If you have a TV with component video inputs you can use this http://www.curtpalme.com/TC1600.shtm. It's a bit expensive but the guy who made it is very knowledgable about analog video.

Alternative if you only have a TV with s-video or composite you can use this http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011407&p_id=4724&seq=1&format=2.

Anyway, if you want to display consoles in their proper resolutions during emulation (which is what I assume you want this for) you need an older ATI/AMD video card and a special set of drivers called the CRT_Emudrivers. These will let you output in 240p and other odd resolutions. Otherwise you'll have nasty flickery 480i.

>> No.1744537

What, is that true?

>> No.1744549

When it comes to PC to CRT, yes.
VGA is the best due to it usually allowing for the highest refresh rates and requiring least conversion as long as the CRT supports it.
Though they rarely do. As >>1744520 posted, there's special drivers available to let you use the VGA output on a CRT which doesn't support VGA signals, though only for ATI cards.
Certain Matrox cards also let you output TV compatible signals along with other strange video modes, but they are really fucking slow and old.
Component is the second best due to requiring less conversion than HDMI but still allowing for higher resolutions than CVBS and S-Video.
HDMI is third due to CRT that include such ports usually having fairly nice converters inside.

>> No.1744593

Thanks anon, I will look into these

>> No.1744996

Any help with this problem?

>> No.1745031


Try a different cable maybe? Could be a number of things: bad cable, bad solder on the TV's scart port, bad solder on the Saturn's AV port...though that last one is unlikely if it's only affecting one kind of output and not another kind.

>> No.1745080

It seems a few people have the same problem with the Saturn and it's down to the way the cables are wired to use the composite video as sync. I guess I'll have a go at modifying the cable to remove composite video and replace it with a proper sync source.

>> No.1745143

If you have an HDMI out from an android device there are some great apps for TV calibration.

HDMI converts to dvi with a simple adapter plug. I have a xbr910 and used an nvidia shield hooked to it for calibration and worked great.

There's a good PDF/doc file on the Sony service menus too, shows you the adjustments and where to find them. On the phone right now though, may find it later.

>> No.1745189

Does anyone know if there are any versions of retroarch other than the wii version that allow you to switch resolutions in the video settings? It's immensely helpful for getting 240p in emulation without having to use all sorts of weird drivers and converters with a PC.

I ask because the wii version can't quite handle GBA emulation (though I've heard rumors that they're going to do something about it in

>> No.1745216
File: 1.30 MB, 1920x2560, IMG_20140707_001412.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

whats up

>> No.1745238


>hurr hurr imma post a picture of retro vidya on a flatpanel and piss everyone off, it'll be totally epic

>> No.1745247
File: 64 KB, 402x402, smirky sarah.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

all joking aside, would this look any better via VGA or do all 2d games just suck on LCD's

>> No.1745251

except tiger heli on nes, what a load of shit

>> No.1745252




The second answer.


Well that's what you get for playing to the NES version.

>> No.1745284

It would be free of at least a frame or two of lag anyway.

>> No.1745297

I believe Wii is the only hardware that can conveniently run retroarch and output 240p.

Maybe have to wait and see?

>> No.1745741

If it's an SDTV, connect it with a VGA to Component Transcoder

>> No.1746101

I want to stream my retro consoles while playing them on a CRT. The Elgato seems to have issues with its HDMI out with PSX and N64 anyway for some reason but I haven't had any actual capture issues with it.

Is it okay to use an S-video splitter and hook one output to the TV and one to the Elgato? Will I get shitty video with it? I googled and found some AV diehards in 2002 saying NO YOU NEED AN ACTIVE DISTRIBUTION AMP FOR S-VIDEO but I'm skeptical

>> No.1746132

I'm looking at a Hitachi SuperScan 751 for $40 on craigslist, should I get it?

>> No.1746189
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Is there a trick to taking pictures of CRT's so that the line doesn't show up? I got this picture after about 20 tries. I'm thinking it might just be my shit camera.

>> No.1746239
File: 1023 KB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Fuck all of it. Don't use digital capturing equipment for capturing analog signals.
You need an analog capture card. Then you plug the composite output from the back of your TV to the capture card.
It's about the camera shutter syncing with your CRT scanline. I really don't know much about cameras but if you give it a 1sec exposure time you might get a decent picture.

>> No.1746278
File: 911 KB, 1554x933, 2014-07-07 02.37.40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've noticed it's a lot easier taking photos of monitors and TVs with phones than my point and shoot camera. Just the obvious no-lights-other-than-the-CRT setting with flash turned off, and turning the ISO setting to as low as it can go also helps.

>> No.1746317

Hey guys so Idk much about crts and was wondering what i need to know. Like how to configure settings for playing retro stuff. I have a coby dvd1350 http://www.abt.com/product/25556/Coby-TVDVD1350.html


Here are the specs and stuff

>> No.1746327
File: 1.83 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_1300.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I appreciate the help. My camera is the point and shoot kind and it's fairly old so there's only one ISO setting and no settings for exposure time. Oh well.

I've been trying to work out in my head for the past couple of months how to make an All in One Wii+CRT for portable use outside and still being able to use it inside for Smash tournaments without much hassle.
The plan is to remove the VCR from the TV completely and fit a Wii inside of it and using the VCR slot to make a controller port bay. I'd also have to forward all of the buttons on the Wii to to the buttons on the front of the TV to control the Wii.
If I want to make it portable I'd need to fit in a deep-cell battery and an inverter. The TV only uses 65w and the Wii only 45w so a 150w Inverter should do fine. An added bonus would be to add a decent solar panel to the top to extend the lifespan of the battery but that's something to do once I get this working in the first place.

So far the hardest part seems to be trying to find a deep-cell battery with enough juice to play for extended periods and still be able to fit into the TV.

>> No.1746706

I'm on the lookout for video capture cards right now, but I'm unfortunately not finding any readily available standard definition component capture device that's better than the Elgato. Everything else seems to have even more problems than it does. My SCART switch has the ability to split video and I have a CSY-2100 RGB to YPbPr converter, so an analog passthrough for a capture device is something I don't need.

>> No.1746720

When running 480i my CRT gets ghosting on the top fifth of my screen but the rest of the screen is fine. What the fuck is up with that?

>> No.1746747

There's not a whole lot of configuring to be done anon.
I assume other than maybe an RF in in the back those AV ports on the front are all it has, which is bad news. The type of signal you're feeding it makes a difference.
That being said, I have a similar TV/DVD combo television and I actually rather like it; it's going to look better than a flat screen no matter what. Go into the settings menu and check the picture. If it's never been adjusted from factory, the settings are probably all wonky. They set them up that way to give the illusion of a vivid picture by cranking up contrast, things of that nature. In actuality, it's TOO vivid, and it hurts the set and causes loss of detail.
Crank everything down to centered/0 (not the lowest setting, but the middle) and adjust it from there to what looks good. I like mine with no added brightness, centered color tone and a couple added notches of sharpness, and the contrast up a little bit.

For a better picture you're going to want a different television.

>> No.1746749
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that's a monster-mod right there guys

>> No.1746756
File: 330 KB, 2048x1536, 10452906_10204371925888386_4617978495484026312_o.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Bought this Trinatron but the corners seem to be magnetized, tried taking a speaker to it and it works but once I take it away the colors return. Any way I can fix it?

Model # KV-24FS100

>> No.1746761
File: 107 KB, 1079x809, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Do I get a cookie?

>> No.1746781

Forgot to mention -- If you're up to it, the 240p test suite might be worth a look, and some games have color bars for picture adjustment in the menu.

>> No.1746782

Quoting this site here:

Degaussing should be the first thing attempted whenever color purity problems are detected. As noted below, first try the internal degauss circuits of the TV or monitor by power cycling a few times (on for a minute, off for at least 20 minutes, on for a minute, etc.) If this does not help or does not completely cure the problem, then you can try manually degaussing.

You should check out the whole site when you get the chance, there's a TON of information about repairing CRT's and it's really informative.

>> No.1746807

so... how do I know wich TV is good for retro vidya?

>> No.1747185

my main concern is the delay. I should be good right? does it matter whether i use rf or component?

>> No.1747197

help niggers

>> No.1747224

Is it possible to tap RGB off of a wii's motherboard directly instead of buying a scart cable? That's what I did for my Sega Genesis since my Amiga monitor does RGB on a DB9 serial instead of SCART.

>> No.1747286

Uhhhh yeah, at the pins in the multi-out that go to the RGB pins in the SCART cable.

>> No.1747342

1084s-d1 anon here. The guy sold the monitor last friday.

I wanna chop my dick off.

>> No.1747350

You will find another perfectly good monitor somewhere else and you won't pay more than $20 for it. Trust me, I practically trip over the things.

>> No.1747362

Not in South America, mate.


>> No.1747631
File: 50 KB, 439x219, ati-tv-wonder-usb-20-20050318063819913-000[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Problem is, I want something like the Elgato because I want to use my laptop for capture. Instead of having to run shit all the way to my tower.

Got any reccomendations for such a decide, that has analog out, and will work with a modern OS?

I bought a fucking ATI TV Wonder USB 2.0 but the drivers won't really work with anything past Windows 2000.

>> No.1747645

so install win 2000 then faggot

>> No.1747671

you want me to install Win2K on my ultrabook and try to stream to twitch from it? Are you retarded?

>> No.1747685

Either put Win2k on a virtual machine then direct the USB device to it or see if a linux distribution has drivers for it.

>> No.1747693

Why do you think that wouldn't work?

>> No.1747697

It sounds like a lot of retarded reacharound effort when my original question is just "Is there a better, more recent analog capture device I can use"

>> No.1747728

so why did you bought such a thing in a first place?

so the best usb solution you can get is probably
Micomsoft XCAPTURE-1

>> No.1747750

sorry, I thought people might just laugh at the weird piece of nonsense I ended up buying because ATI named like 10 fucking devices "all in wonder"

The Micomsoft looks pretty good, but over 300 dollars is too expensive for me. No component either...

>> No.1747786

it has a component (it's called D-terminal port)

>> No.1747848

Ah. Still, anything a bit less costly?

>> No.1747892

PCIe counterpart Micomsoft SC-500N1 (StarTech PEXHDCAP is the same exact thing but you might get it cheaper)

>> No.1747908

Damn, like I said my hope was for something USB to connect to the laptop...might have to either save up or shut up, or try splitting the elgato...

>> No.1747946
File: 215 KB, 720x576, TV2013110920372600.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Empia 28285 is cheap and comes with Component input and works for /vr/ hardware.
But the drivers aren't good (at least the 32bit one for XP), it crashes whenever i open a VFW based recorder.

This screenshot comes from a 2/1/3 PAL SNES via homemade Scart cable and homemade transcoder.

>> No.1748004

I'm retarded when it comes to codecs, are Xsplit and OBS "VFW based encoders"

I'm looking for a usb device that plays well with Windows 8 basically.

>> No.1748012

I should also mention I want S-video and Component Out

>> No.1748072

With recorder i meant a application that uses the (older) VFW interface, DirectShow based recorders work fine.
I record it lossless 1:1 with DScaler for processing it in Virtualdub and saving it in high quality Xvid.

>Windows 8
I can't help you with that.

A graphics could be the solution but that not going to work easily with your laptop.
You might be able to push your luck by converting the existing video outputs of your laptop to your desired format.

>> No.1748238

Is there a significant difference between component and s-video? I bought an s-video cable for one of my consoles because I somehow missed the fact that my TV has a component input...Not sure if I should cut my loss and just buy a component cable or not.

>> No.1748583
File: 10 KB, 139x150, dk_confused.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So i was wondering do Crts all just not have the delay/slower response of hd flatscreens? or is there more to it? also does it matter what cables i use such as component and rf?

>> No.1748587
File: 209 KB, 1000x750, niggers.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

r8 m8's

>> No.1748617

No, they have no lag because they natively handle many (read:all) resolutions. Other TV technologies, however, have to upscale to a specific resolution, which creates lag.

>> No.1748695

There is no delay on a CRT, period, unless it's the sort that might have digital processing going on like an HD set. For yours, there's nothing to worry about.

>> No.1748706


>> No.1748715

On my trinitron when playing a gam with a white background, I can see a thin horizontal line near the middle of the screen. Is my CRT dying?

>> No.1748717

Component is better, but depending on the console you're talking about S-video might be the best you're going to get out of it normally

>> No.1748726


I know that component is better...I'm just wondering how much of an improvement I'd see.

>> No.1748728

It could be the stabilizing wire.

>> No.1748729

That might be a result of the support wires. Trinitron grilles are made up of a bunch of high-tension wires, and they have support wires to keep things in place. Sometimes the wires are visible.

>> No.1748731

Probably a visible improvement, but a less dramatic one than from RF or Composite to S-video would be.

>> No.1748738

Which console? Remember that SNES, for example, can't do anything higher than S-Video out without modding.

Dunno if the N64 can output component. Probably not since it had a separate digital out port

>> No.1748760

Only the SNES mini needs to be modded for RGB. The original model outputs RGB just gimme.

>> No.1748763

Er, just FINE. Fucking phone.

>> No.1748780
File: 1.12 MB, 3264x2448, 1404286077091.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Do you happen to know what might be causing this?
It's a Trinitron/BVM.

Does it need re-capping or something?

>> No.1748783


It's actually my PS2...Which I know isn't retro...But since my question is more related to picture quality on my CRT, I figured this would be the best place to ask.

>> No.1748785


Oh right, so it's not a sign that it's on the way out?

>> No.1748792

Guys please just tell me whether splitting a single S-video output from a console to two S-video inputs is going to look shit or not.

I have been consigned to the hell of watching youtube videos where people spend 6 minutes explaining how to plug in a fucking RCA jack and act like it's new useful information

Someone told me that s-video probably might look a bit darker but won't distort if split?

>> No.1748795
File: 29 KB, 800x576, FILE25973.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Forgive me if this isn't possibly related to CRTs, but I'd rather ask here than make an entirely new thread just for a quick question.

I decided to play my SNES today, and I noticed that my eyes felt really strange playing a fast paced platfomer. Is this a result of the interlacing, the fact that I have a low quality CRT (pic related), or composite cable?

I never had this problem when I was younger, and this is the same fucking TV and SNES Mini I've had for years.

>> No.1748803

If you have a PS2 there is no point to getting S-video if your TV supports component. The difference in price is negligible and component looks much nicer than S-video.

>> No.1748804

>my eyes felt really strange
That isn't a useful description of the problem.

>> No.1748806


They also did not have digital filtering/post-processing,unlike flatpanels.

>> No.1748815

For PS2 you're definitely going to want component if you can, but S-Video shouldn't look too shabby either I suppose.
If you mostly play PSX games on it you might want to look into RGB.

>> No.1748817


>is this a result of the interlacing
SNES outputs at 240p and isn't interlaced

If you haven't used a CRT for a while your eyes might be adjusting to using a different a different kind of display than what they're used to.

>> No.1748820

Sorry, that really isn't helpful, is it? Kind of hard to explain, but it's almost like a motion blur that also puts a strain on my eyes.

That's possible I suppose. I haven't played my actual SNES or looked at a CRT in god knows how long.

>> No.1748828

I thought PS2 component output was murky or something?

>> No.1748839

It's probably got to do with the way CRTs work, anon. They draw one line at a time horizontally down the screen, and if it's interlaced then they fill in the lines going back up. They also have a lower refresh rate than many flat panels these days, drawing 50-60 screens per second or so. Your eyes may not be used to it all anymore.
You're probably seeing flickering in your peripheral vision; it's not uncommon when watching CRTs

>> No.1748841

I'm literally about to hook up my PS2 both ways right now, I'll tell you guys the results even if my phone can't capture it properly

What game should I use? Chulip? Devil May Cry? Kingdom Hearts?

>> No.1748856

>SNES outputs at 240p and isn't interlaced

Anon mentioned using a composite cable, do those carry a 240p signal?

>> No.1748858

scratch that, I can't find my PS2 component

>> No.1748860

For seeing a quality difference? It doesn't matter, I guess.

>> No.1748864

srsly guys

s-video splitter

is it gonna be ok

>> No.1748871

uh, what?

>> No.1748874

Can I use one of these things to split an S-video output to both the CRT TV and a capture device or is it going to dick my picture


>> No.1748876

Oh sorry anon, I just saw your post. I honestly couldn't tell you for sure. It might not distort, but the picture could end up being really dark.

>> No.1748909
File: 166 KB, 951x713, kof.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


I hooked it up to my PVM instead of my Trinitron, and the picture looks pretty good...Clearer than on the Trinitron, obviously.

>> No.1749262

Absolutely not. I don't know if it's because I have the first party cables Sony put out when the PS3 was brand new but my PS2 outputting component looks just as good as my Genesis does outputting SCART.

Granted, 480i content looks lousy, which the PS2 if filled with, but nothing can fix 480i. I only wish the PS2 was as 480p friendly as the Dreamcast, Gamecube, and Xbox.

>> No.1749358

anyone know?

>> No.1749432

Are you sure?
I've been reading on the shmups.system11 forums that component cables, even official ones, result in colour banding because the PS2 has shitty output.

>> No.1749445

Any recommendations for a good small CRT? Say less than 19''? I want something small I can't put on my desk which I already don't have any space for.

>> No.1749524
File: 435 KB, 1152x864, Component.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Pretty positive. I've tried googling the thread/s in question but none of them are really conclusive or have any pictures. Can you link me to any threads with pictures? It's very likely I have whatever game that's on display.

This is what my component output looks like on my PVM.

>> No.1749528

Might want to look at PC monitors. Just make sure it has the right connections.

>> No.1749534
File: 443 KB, 1152x864, S-Video.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And, for comparison, what my S-Video looks like.

I should also note that the blue on Richter isn't nearly as overly bright in person as it is on camera. For some reason I can't get it to appear as dark as it should be.

>> No.1749720


>> No.1749774

Here you go;




>> No.1749853
File: 383 KB, 1280x960, 14l4 PVM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1749861
File: 124 KB, 535x713, athena.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]



>> No.1749871


Maybe I'm wrong...But isn't this conversation specifically about using it with this "Frameister" device they're talking about?

>> No.1749890

Jeez, I wish the dude had picked a more colorful game to display supposed color issues component has. Or at least something in 240p like a PSX game.

There's so many variables to the situation. He's using a framemeister on an LCD and I'm just hooking this up straight to a PVM-20L5. I also don't have a PS1 or PS2 SCART cable to really see if there's a difference (The official component cables did not have composite video so I can't use that as sync for RGB)

Well, here's the full-size image on a PVM for comparison's sake (You wouldn't believe how much of a pain in the ass it was getting this shot as close as it is in his)

...I dunno. It took me a while to even see the color banding he was even talking about in his FF12 shot because FF12 is such a muddy game to begin with, but I do definitely see it in his component shot now that I compare everything, where the blending just looks like a compressed gif of a gradient in his shots (Especially under the black and to the right side of the pillar where there's a big circle of it in the middle)

I definitely don't see the banding on my PVM and the gradients appear to blend together smoothly. I don't know how different PS2 RGB would look on this thing, but I'm curious as to why his RGB shots are so damn bright. It's almost unnatural.

Like I said, it's difficult to discern with all the variables. All I can say is that as-is on a CRT it looks fine. There's absolutely no banding going on in 240p PSX games with the component cables, I can tell you that much.

>> No.1749895


Yeah, I read the entire thread...And this definitely isn't an issue with the PS2 itself...It's an issue with the framemeister and probably with using an LCD screen.

So, considering that I'm running my PS2 on a PVM and I have no clue WTF a framemeister is, this issue is irrelevant to me. I already ordered a component cable and some BNC adapters, anyway, so I'll just see for myself when they get here.

>> No.1749908

>Yeah, I read the entire thread

Not the entire thing, obviously...But you know what I mean.

>> No.1750773

It has nothing to do with it being 2D or 3D. It has to do with the resolution.

>> No.1750775

Is it possible to see the screen refresh? I swear to god a few times recently I'd move my head a certain way and see some weird shit while moving my head. I thought I was seeing things but I've seen it several times now.

>> No.1750782

Yeah, if you move your head quickly you'll perceive the different fields drawing, especially on a 15khz one.

>> No.1750785

Yeah what I've been seeing was like half of the screen was one image while the other half was slightly different. Kind of like when you get tearing on LCD.

>> No.1750797
File: 103 KB, 332x350, 1399152027763.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

read the threads, fucktard

>> No.1750802

If you're not using a trini you're doing it wrong.

>> No.1750804
File: 526 KB, 1632x918, WP_20140706_007.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>tfw can never get a perfect shot

>> No.1750807

When using the grid on the 240p test suite how much of the grid should be on screen.
I try to fit it perfectly then later I get black bars.
Is the red area on the grid supposed to be the overscanned area?

>> No.1750818

If degaussing doesn't work something might be fuck inside.
I had a CRT that I eventually degaussed with a deguassing coil. Nothing fixed it. It evened out when I turned it on its side but over time the color started to turn again. I believe something was loose on the inside.

>> No.1750825

Luke pls

>> No.1750837

wave your hand in front of it, or look thru a spinning fan. if you can control the fan speed you might be able to sync up and observe its strobe like behavior

captcha: gloptope spermatic

>> No.1751770
File: 1.76 MB, 1024x768, dat 7 key midi.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

CRT setup

>> No.1752024

I have my PVM hooked up to my computer through a VGA cable to run emulators and DOOM on...And I don't get scanlines.

I thought scanlines had to do with the monitor...Am I missing something? I get scanlines on my consoles.

>> No.1752027

What kind of PVM and, more importanly, what resolution?

>> No.1752030

Highly recommend Trinitron KV-21X5U.

Great picture, and supports an s video signal if you use an adapter.

>> No.1752037


MultiSync XM29. It automatically goes to 1024x768 and I haven't touched the resolution config (I'm on Linux) because I'm not sure what to set it to.

>> No.1752043


Yeah, that'd be why. Scanlines only occur at sub-480p resolutions (As scanlines are a result of essentially taking the interlacing out of a 480i image, leaving only blank space for the extra 240 lines where an interlaced frame would be in 480i so you can get a progressive resolution).

You'll need to set your resolution to 320x240 or something to that effect in order to get scanlines.

>> No.1752078


Ah...Makes sense...I figured it was some kind of resolution thing. Thanks.

>> No.1752101


Set it to 320x240, and still no scanlines...So I imagine that the issue has something to do with how the emulators are scaling the image?

>> No.1752120

I have no idea how Linux works but you absolutely should get scanlines at 320x240 on that monitor, I'm positive of that. I'm going off of Windows logic but are you sure your GPU isn't just scaling 320x240 to 640x480? In Windows you have to pretty much go into your GPU's settings in order to force 240p to display on your device with no scaling. You should also be getting clear scanlines even on your desktop at that resolution, too.

>> No.1752126

240p is not a regular resolution. It is actually like 480i but always skipping every other like. I think you have to use a certain modeline.

>> No.1752148


Yeah, I have no clue...I'm using nvidia-settings, which lets me set it to 320x240, then there's a dropdown menu that lets me choose between 73 Hz (DoubleScan) or 60 Hz (doubleScan) that's set to auto by default, but changing it seems to do nothing.

The only other controls I see are Color Depth and dithering controls...Not sure if doing anything with those would help.

>> No.1752161


I'm reading some documentation on modelines with Xorg in Linux, but I'm not sure what I should be doing here.


>> No.1752185



Found this...Not sure what values I should be putting in.

>> No.1752196

I have this in my notes. I don't have a CRT monitor so I never tried. Use at your own risk.

>To drive a TV with xorg:
No idea if this is possible in Windows. In Linux you just need to add the following modeline:
>Modeline "pseudoNTSC-240p" 5.979 320 332 368 380 240 242 246 263 +CSync
>...and you can have perfect, native 240p output from basically any VGA card.

>> No.1752204

>No idea if this is possible in Windows. In Linux you just need to add the following modeline:
>>Modeline "pseudoNTSC-240p" 5.979 320 332 368 380 240 242 246 263 +CSync
>>...and you can have perfect, native 240p output from basically any VGA card.

Didn't work...

>> No.1752219

Did you restart xorg and everything?

>> No.1752225


Yeah...I added it to my xorg config under the monitor section for the monitor and restarted xorg...The monitor started out in 1024x768 as usual, so I set it to 320x240 using nvidia-settings, and still the same.

I imagine that I'm doing something wrong or missing a step?

>> No.1752232

>The monitor started out in 1024x768 as usual
That means that it isn't using that modeline.
>so I set it to 320x240 using nvidia-settings, and still the same.
Because it is the same as before.
Depending on the card it might not possible, BTW.
This is also in my notes, you might want to try this at your own risk.
>Monitor in 240p
>xrandr --newmode "320x240_170.00" 18.75 320 336 368 416 240 243 247 269 -hsync +vsync
>xrandr --addmode VGA-1 320x240_170.00
>xrandr --output VGA-1 --mode 320x240_170.00

>> No.1752267


Well, having issues with that...So I'm going to give it a rest for now and try to figure it out later. Thanks for the help.

>> No.1752546

So I just tried ps1 via composite on my CRT, and then N64 via s video.

Why does ps1 look so much better? Like, a lot better. Not, bait I want to know.

>> No.1752642

Also I don't seem to be getting scanlines on the 240p test suite on the Wii.
The CRT is some kind of PAL wide screen Sony Trinitron.
Please respond.

>> No.1752973

Is it an HD CRT? I've read in this thread a few times that HD CRTs don't have scanlines. I've only read this I don't know for sure.

>> No.1752994

The n64 video interface component, it turns out, interpolates every game from its native resolution up to either 640x240p or 640x480i. The result is everything gets blurried, at least horizontally. No way to escape this other than through emulation.

>> No.1753073


To get 240p on Linux you need to use the terminal to manually change the resolution.

>> No.1753086

It doesnt have HDMI or even component input so i don't really think its HD?
It has scart s-video and composite.

>> No.1753119


Yeah if it just has those it isn't. HD signals can be carried by component but if it doesn't even have those then it most certainly is not.

>> No.1753532

Does anyone on here have a Trinitron in the FV310 series? There's one on craigslist for free a few hours away from me, I've heard it's the best consumer grade CRT you can get so I want to know if it's worth it.

>> No.1753572

X-arcade?! Sweet!

>> No.1753712

Hello /crt/. I just received my PVM today. It was shipped but not packed that well; it was just in a box surrounded by packing peanuts. No bubble wrap or anything.

Cosmetically it's in great shape somehow, but admittedly... I'm scared to plug it in. If it's been knocked around a lot, what's the worst that could go wrong? Are there any precautions I should be taking?

>> No.1753726


If there's anything wrong with it you can't really know unless you turn it on. Open it up maybe and look to see if anything looks disconnected or broken, if it makes you feel better.

>> No.1753727

>If it's been knocked around a lot, what's the worst that could go wrong?
A part gets damaged and you can't find a replacement for it.

>If it's been knocked around a lot, what's the worst that could go wrong?
Shake it and listen if something rattles in the inside, that would be a simple but dumb idea.
Open and inspect it would be the best thing to do. (as i do with almost everything used i buy)

>> No.1753762

excuse me the ignorance, but why don't just play with and lcd/led tv?

>> No.1753813

Because any LCD screen capable of displaying low resolutions is objectively terrible?

>> No.1753828

would you please tell me more? Also, I'd like to play not too retro videogames, like NES, 64 gamecube and alike. Should I get an crt?

>> No.1753838

>NES, 64 gamecube

With these consoles, you'll get an enhanced gaming experience compared to an LCD, as CRTs display Composite and S-Video signals better than LCDs, and you'll get a lagless, smooth animation.

>> No.1753843

Resolution varies, but all consoles before the Xbox (which iirc doesn't heavily use it) run in standard definition. There might be a few exceptions on the PS2 and Gamecube, but this is all obviously out of the /vr/ range. An LCD screen that actually displays standard definition is going to be from the early 2000s and is going to have faded picture, heavy ghosting, and be small to boot.

High definition displays take the 240p image, and scale it up, resulting in pixelated images. And, for the really hardcore who notice these things, imput delay (between the time you press a button and the time it takes for your dude to move).

If you grew up playing old games on PC emulators, you probably wouldn't even notice anything wrong, but if you've seen what the games are supposed to look like, the difference is night and day. Some games are more drastically hit than others. I know I specifically was thinking DKC hadn't aged well at all, until I dug out my newish CRT (2005) TV and plugged up my CRT. All the jaggies disappeared and it looked as good as it did in 1995 when I first played it.

>> No.1753852

Yes, anything standard definition game can use a CRT, and anything below SD definitely should.
The problem with modern displays is that they're digital, put simply. Old video games display at low resolutions, but new televisions and monitors are designed for much higher resolutions. When they are fed a low-resolution signal, they must digitally upscale it in order to display it. The upscaling process produces a poor picture, and also introduces a delay between inputs on the game controller and what happens on the screen. This makes some games much more difficult to play than they should be. Without elaborating on it too much, CRTs are analog devices, and have none of these problems. They additionally have some other perks -- better black levels, lack of motion blur, etc.
For a good experience with any game 5th generation or older, you want a CRT, or otherwise external upscaling equipment. 6th generation kind of straddles the line, as games from that era were typically 480i-480p, and traditional CRTs can't display 480p (MOST however are 480i, and those that output at 480p usually do it as a hidden or menu option and not automatically).

>> No.1753853


I see, thank you both of you. Now I'll read the thread again for more info, as now I plan to buy one crt.

>> No.1753854


>> No.1754152

I recently bought a component cable for my Wii, which I use for retro vidya to use in my Trinitron Sony CRT TV. Is there a way to make the Trinitron TV 480p, por should the cable alone do the trick? I'd love me some High-Quality SNES. Thanks!

>> No.1754170

I think you are a little confused about what the component cable does. It just provides a clearer signal, so that the picture will look better.

But no, a standard definition TV won't do 480p, but given that the SNES can't either, that is the whole point of using the SDTV.

>> No.1754176

Oh, I see. Thanks!

>> No.1754350
File: 22 KB, 479x430, 223369.sony-pvm-14l5-14-monitor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

just received a SONY PVM-14L5 in mail today.

but its not turning on. (Just keeps making a clicking sound) no lights or power indicator. I’m assuming something is wrong with the power supply inside the unit, but I’m not sure.

The manual I found online doesn't have a troubleshooting section. So it could be anything I guess.

any Ideas?

>> No.1754486

Some Sony TV's had this pseudo "progressive" filtering trick that got rid of scanlines. I had one of them and it was garbage for retro games. :( Sounds like you have a similar model.

>> No.1754681
File: 1.23 MB, 1280x720, Game Center CX 172 - Budokan Documentary.mp4_snapshot_06.08_[2014.07.09_23.06.27].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

GameCenter CX confirmed for PVM master race.

>> No.1754712

A retarded suggestion that I'm sure you've already tried but have you tried another power cord? It's just a standard grounded cable that desktops, monitors, PS3, etc. use.

>> No.1754775

what is the resolution of a crt tv? does it have a single resolution or does it set a resolution based on what's being used (console, dvd player, vcr, etc)?

>> No.1754789

It doesn't have a single resolution. It has some electrical signals that drive 3 electron guns that sweep the phosphor screen. What limits the resolution is the dot pitch of the screen and the frequencies that the circuitry that drives the guns can handle.

>> No.1754809


ok, lets say i want to use a resolution on my monitor thats closest to the "resolution" on a crt tv. what resolution would be best?

>> No.1754828

Not every monitor can go as low in frequency as a TV. Some people try using a low vertical resolution and a large horizontal resolution and use a shader with their emulators.
Also, while there are standards like NTSC that specify 480 interlaced lines (480i) there is no such thing as "CRT TV resolution". For example many game consoles use a mode similar to 480i where the half the lines are drawn twice and the other lines are left blank.

>> No.1754838


>the "resolution" on a crt tv

Like the other anon said, what you said make no sense. There's no fixed resolution, but resolution limits due to the Verical and Horizontal frequencies of the monitor.
The highest resolution on a CRT TV at 60Hz? 640*240, something like this, in progressive scan, and 640*480 in interlaced mode. At 50Hz? Something like 640*296 in progressive scan, and 640*592 in interlaced mode. Of course, these are if you're using an RGB signal, with a composite signal, replace 640 by 480. All of these resolutions have been deduced from the ones i can use with my Amiga on a TV using both RGB and Composite. I don't count Overscan.
The lowest? 1*1.

>> No.1754924
File: 128 KB, 445x375, PVM CARD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yep,. I tested it out with 2 different power cards.

just makes a clicking sound, and faint little whine like some tiny person inside is saying "noooo"

really sucks because I wanted to use it for 480p content.

and I even purchased an expansion card for it. (coming in the mail tomorrow)

>> No.1755270

So guys, flatscreen or convex?

>> No.1755347

Doesn't matter to me either way but I think flat looks nicer.

>> No.1755359
File: 2.46 MB, 3264x1836, 02940.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Like I give a shit about some stupid lines.

>> No.1755403


That's way too thin to be a PVM. Maybe it's an early LCD monitor or something. PVMs generally have unusually long tubes because longer tube = less geometry issues.

I remember GCCX had a CRT in the early episodes, they switched to some 4:3 LCD thing eventually. Shame they didn't stick with the former.

>> No.1755609


I wish I was like you and could just not give a fuck...I don't like obsessing over the quality and authenticy of my fake scanlines, but I do.

>> No.1755673

Too thin to be a CRT, but it could very easily be a LCD or OLED PVM.

>> No.1756628

Ah, so the reason this thread keeps getting hidden is because it's quoting the sticky. Don't do that in the future, OP.

>> No.1756841
File: 2.35 MB, 1280x718, Trin vs pvm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


14m2u VS kv-13fs100

>> No.1756846

Can we make the /crt/ guide today?

>> No.1756993

Theres a Sony Trinitron KV-32LS60U 32" for sale near where i live, would it be a good choice for retro games? Also how heavy are these things, would 2 people be able to carry it?

>> No.1757001

A 32" television will probably weigh well over 100lbs. Two people can handle it, but getting it up and down stairs would be a feat. I would definitely recommend under 24", simply because they are smaller, far easier to move and lift, and they offer crisper image over larger displays.

>> No.1757065


62Kg/~140 lbs
2 people could probably carry it, but expect it to be unwieldy.

>100hz picture
That suggest some type of image processing, and as such input lag along with it; This is disregarding any image quality problems that could crop up from that as well.

>> No.1757325
File: 53 KB, 502x327, vyv2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.1757327

>would it be a good choice for retro games?
As long as it's not an HDTV or one of those fake progressive sony ones.

>> No.1757819
File: 15 KB, 400x166, SCARTtoDisplay02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Question: What would be the best way to watch videos on a PVM?

I want to watch muh 80's/90's animuh on my PVM, but the only way I to have achieve that its by connecting my ps2 and use SMS (.avi only) or using my PS3 with PS3 media server (.mk4, .mkv). I want use a SCART cable with them and I know that I will have to watch them at 480i.

Using a computer displaying 15hz would be a better option? I would have to make my own cables since my PVM only have a CMPTR 25 d sub connector for RGB, and I really don't know what kind of sync it uses. It's a PVM-2030.

btw, I also have pic related which I use for every console I use with rgb, would it be better if I make a VGA to Scart cable and use this, rather tan a VGA to 25 D-Sub?

Is the difference in the picture quality worth it?

>> No.1757952
File: 67 KB, 542x720, 1388538966384.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sounds like you want a video scaler.
If you have 250 Euro handy grab yourself a Mimo Genius II. That, or a secondhand Extron Emotia or Ultracade UVC.

>> No.1758007

>fake progressive sony ones

What do you mean?

>> No.1758012
File: 119 KB, 850x1203, sample-f763e264b90f4cc6a4539301b444df05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So, i picked up a set of component cables my wii the other day. Hooked it up to my 32 wega and it looks fantasic, running all kinds of emulators.

I decided to try setting this one emulator to output in 480p instead of 480i, and the screen freaked out like i expected. Was just testing if for no real reason. Though when i turned the tv off i noticed there was a lot more static than usual, and a heavier crackling sound in the back.

Now i feel like it isn't as sharp. The pixels in games seem to bleed a tiny bit more than they did beforehand. I was wondering could this have damaged my tv? or am i just overthinking this and there probably was no change.

>> No.1758017


I have used ps3 media server to do this before on a few tvs. If the video files you have are 720p or up they will come up SHARP. I'd argue it looks more "hd" than an lcd monitor if your video source is really high res.

I mean you are basically playing a high res file on a low res tv. Sometimes it can be tooo sharp.

>> No.1758034

Yeah, I use 720p/1080p files when I'm using my Trinitron KV-36XBR450 and it really looks beautiful on that TV and yes, I really doubt it would look better on an LCD.

But yeah, all the video files I want to watch on the PVM-2030 are less than 720p. I think I'm gonna have a lot of over scan problems tough.

>> No.1758038

The colors are warmer on my PVM than my other televisions, I've noticed. Cause for concern?

>> No.1758059


There's one that have been posted a few thread earlier, but I don't know what happened to them.

>> No.1758119


If you hit triangle while playing a movie file you can adjust aspect ratio and cropping a bit. Somewhere in that menu. I'd check it out.

I'm glad the ps3 has so much support for video now. I remember having to transcode every damn file making them grow 4x in size.

>> No.1758139

I miss mine. T.t
Where could I get a brand new CRT TV these days that has at least one composite/component (i forget which one is the one with just r/l/y) input as well as the ruf connector in the back?

I'd do with 20"+ if possible. Just not super heavy.
I have no upper body strength

>> No.1758334
File: 77 KB, 1023x764, cmvs1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I want to watch muh 80's/90's animuh on my PVM

Welcome to the tribe my friend

>Using a computer displaying 15hz would be a better option?

Usually that's the easiest or cheapest option to 15hz content. You could also purchase of Mimo genius 2 brand-new. That converts everything into 240p

Or older extron hardware, harder to find. (And not as good in my opinion)

>only have a CMPTR 25 d sub connector for RGB, and I really don't know what kind of sync it uses

The manual says he uses sync on green. For that port. https://docs.sony.com/release/PVM2030.pdf

>would it be better if I make a VGA to Scart cable and use this, rather tan a VGA to 25 D-Sub? (Is the difference in the picture quality worth it?)

That I don't know, I’m an American and we use component cables here instead of scart (or other RGB interfaces).

But as long as you're getting a clear interference free RGB signal at 240p, everything should be good

Also as far as I know, you’ll need an ATI or AMD card to output the signal to your PVM. And you'll need something called the CRT EMU driver, with an installation of Windows XP. (Windows 7 driver is in beta testing, but I hear it’s working pretty well)

You can also get a special Linux installation called groovy arcade. it's designed for emulation and 240p

I'm in the process of building a mini PC for my PVM so I can play all my games and watch anime plus old 80s cartoons in 240p (so far it looks great)

Keep trucking bro!

>> No.1758337
File: 265 KB, 650x867, Arcade pic.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've done that a couple times myself, on both my 27 inch Trinitron and my 14 inch PVM.

never seems to have any lasting or damaging effects that I could see.

try running some calibration tests ( THX optimizer and or the 240p test suite, which I think is best anyway)

>> No.1758346
File: 351 KB, 866x1044, crt5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

you should talk to the CRT guys over at shmups.system11. they would probably have a better idea of what that means

>> No.1758360
File: 1.46 MB, 2848x2136, 05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

most of the later model Trinitron's don't really show scanlines very well even at 240p (see pic)

plus most people think of scanlines as very dark and thick (thanks to emulation filters), only some CRTs have very dark thick scanlines (Sony PVM and BVM with 800 TVL resolution or the older Toshiba Pro series monitors

this picture is from a 2001 sony Trinitron

as you can see most of what's visible as the dot structure and aperture grille. scanlines are kind of hard to pick out.

(scanlines were considered undesirable around this time. this style of tube also hides interlacing better when watching DVDs)

also, see this image for a good comparison >>1756841

>> No.1758368

looks nice, what's the the brightness like? can get really bright or is a little dim? ( indicating that it's kind of worn out)

>> No.1758370


Otaking is that you?

>> No.1758389



just don't ask about doctor who. lol

>> No.1758395

they don't make new ones anymore, the best you could possibly do is find one that's never been taken out of its box. Which I imagine would be pretty expensive for a decent model

>> No.1758406

Don't see why, have you tried to calibrate it? Doesn't it have a color temp setting?

>> No.1758418

Overscan can usualy be adjusted. If your monitor doesn't have a setting for it, you could get an RGB interface like the 203 rxi. with that you can adjust the size of any source to perfectly fit your display

>> No.1758420

I meant to say power cords.

anyway it seems like the company doesn't want me to mail back the broken PVM. what the heck do with a dead monitor anyway?

are there any places that still fix these things?

>> No.1758426
File: 1.19 MB, 1920x1440, IMG_0096.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ocarina of Time on N64, through s-video. CRT is a Sony WEGA Trinitron KV-32FS120 from 2005. $30 from a thrift store earlier this year.


>> No.1758430


There are tutorials on How to discharge a CRT and it's Fly-back transformer. After following them (thus discharging everything) try to find what's messing with your monitor by inspecting the capacitors and other components.

>> No.1758450


>> No.1758458

but I'm not an electrician, how lol I know what to look for? And would it really be possible for me to fix anything? (especially without the service manual)

>> No.1758462

Does n64 put out a 240p signal? I thought it was only 480i

>> No.1758469

At the very least you can look for capacitors that are bulging on the top, indicating they need replacement. At that point you'd need to solder in a new one, though.

Honestly if you're not comfortable working with high-voltage parts you should probably not be servicing a CRT; it's pretty much the most dangerous thing you can do with consumer electronics unless you properly discharge it like >>1758430

>> No.1758484

Well, I've put PC's together and modified game consoles but I've never really solderd anything before.

the tube is in perfect condition, just seems like such a waste to scrap it.

>> No.1758498


Check your phonebook for a TV repairman, try to get a quotation (I don't know How we say "un devis" in english, and it's the first traduction I found), and if it's too expensive, try to ask on various forums that talk about old hardware, get in contact with an ex-TV repairman, people like them.

>> No.1758510

From what I can tell, N64 games came in three video resolutions: 256 × 224, 320 × 240 and 640 × 480. OoT was 240p until it was ported to the Gamecube, when it was raised to 480i, and it's the 480i version that's used in the Virtual Console.

According to
the N64's video encoder upscales the games' native horizontal res from 320 to 640, but leaves the vertical res alone. Neat.

>> No.1758516

>leaves the vertical res alone

So N64 developers working at resolutions below 480i had to account for the console distorting the aspect ratio? Weird.

>> No.1758536
File: 1.27 MB, 1920x1440, IMG_0139.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Being an N64 developer was suffering.

Here's Super Mario World's title page on the same tv, also through s-video.

>> No.1758592

if anyone could show an example of how Chinese girl cartoons look on a crt on 240p or 480i or progressive pls respond. now I'm curious to how they would look like?

>> No.1758649
File: 1.22 MB, 2848x2136, dem big eyes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm working on it, this was a 480p source converted to 240p

hoping to take multiple pictures today.

>> No.1758658
File: 1.83 MB, 2848x2136, 202.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

scratch that, these were from a 480i source converted to 240p

displayed on a newer Trinitron

>> No.1758668
File: 1.43 MB, 2848x2136, 203.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I want to do a comparison of

240p vs 480i vs 480p

and 480i - 240 vs 480p - 240

but I haven't been able to do it yet, don't have all my equipment set up

>> No.1758753

casshan muh nigga! great show and i really like the quality of the first pic but the second is good too. yeah if you can do that please do that. thanks man!

>> No.1758790
File: 403 KB, 800x800, img_b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


glad you like them, hopefully I'll have some time later today.

no promises unfortunately, family is keeping me busy today ( as usual lol)

>> No.1758861
File: 2.80 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_090542.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


in tate mode!

>> No.1758863
File: 1.72 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_090552.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

title screen

(taking these pictures with an old HTC Evo 4G)

>> No.1758867
File: 2.32 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_090717.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

here's another angle

>> No.1758871
File: 2.60 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_090737.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>> No.1758873
File: 2.74 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_090822.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

tiny plane, big pixel

>> No.1758876
File: 3.05 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140711_091235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

and that's all I've played so far, ( anything else besides 1943 I should try?)

>> No.1758906
File: 2.55 MB, 952x1400, 1941.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


this was the CPS1 version of 1941 counter attack being played at a resolution of 384×224p

on a Nintendo Wii through retroarch (daisy-chained from the extra output of a PVM)

>> No.1759207
File: 1.04 MB, 2304x1728, 100_1273.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


This one is in 480i.

>> No.1759326


Hi same think happened to my PVM-14 series, I opened her up to find that a daughter board had come disconnected in transit, I put it back into place and away she went, hope that's some help.

>> No.1759905

thanks for the info!

i'll have to give it a look inside.

going to discharge it this weekend hopefully.

>> No.1759948

>Question: What would be the best way to watch videos on a PVM?
Pull a UD board from a Sony projection TV, use that to drive 480i component from your video card's HDMI port.

>> No.1760038

>UD board from a Sony projection TV

whats a UD board? could you show me a picture?

>> No.1760046
File: 561 KB, 2340x1603, 029944.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Best game.

>> No.1760094

Okay...I got my component cable for my PS2 today...

Hook it into my Trinitron, and it doesn't look any better than composite (looks exactly the same, although s-video certainly looks much better than composite on my Trinitron).

Okay, oh well, I got it to use on my PVM, anyway...So, hook the BNC adaptors in, and hook the component cable into that...Turn it on...The first thing I notice is that the screen is tinted green. The second thing I notice is the edges of the image have weird digital artifacts, which leads me into the third thing I notice...The picture doesn't even fill the whole screen. It's small and starts on the left, but is kind of centered vertically.

TLDR; I get a green-tinted picture that doesn't fill the screen and has digital artifacts on my PS2 when hooked into my PVM through component. What do I do?

No pictures because I didn't think to take any and don't feel like going over and messing with it again right now.

>> No.1760132

>screen is tinted green

Can your PVM take Component? (YPBPR) input. it might be RGB only.

what model is it?

>> No.1760210


NEC MultiSync XM29...Honestly, I don't know a lot about this stuff, so I thought component and RGB were the same thing...So I don't know.

>> No.1760224

It can do both, and more.

>> No.1760319
File: 24 KB, 400x300, DSC05156.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

> I thought component and RGB were the same thing

Nope, similar but different.

from a quick search online it looks like NEC MultiSync XM29 is RGB only.

did you try setting your Ps2 to RGB mode?

you might also need a sync cable (we had a talk about this stuff in the last thread)

>> No.1760327
File: 55 KB, 607x455, 1329556171162.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Can I just ask a question that I always think when I see these threads?

Why aren't they called '/vr/t thread's?

>> No.1760334
File: 26 KB, 400x266, PS2-Universal-Cable-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

you might need a cable like this to get sync (from the composite line)

You could also get a YPbPr to RGB converter but they're kinda expensive.

>> No.1760345



i dunno lol

>> No.1760350

It'd be a nice nickname for the threads, but it's better for searching to leave it as CRT; Or at least to have CRT somewhere in the subject/post.

>> No.1760391


I did...And all that got my was a screen full of blue fuzz.


I'll look into a sync cable...Thanks.

But, I also have a problem on my Trinitron when I hook it up through that...The picture is, like, at an angle...Slightly diagonal...Is that a problem with my Trinitron, the component cable, or what? I don't have anything else that I can use component with to test if it's my Trinitron or not...I can try hooking my PS2 to my parent's LCD TV later to see if I get the same problem, but I can't do that right now.

>> No.1760405



Is this what I'm looking for?

>> No.1760418

it might work the same but i'm not sure, I've used the switch type for sync.

>> No.1760427

I think your NEC will only take RGBHV, you need to see if anyone has ever hooked a ps2 up that way.

you might need a transcoder or maybe a sync stripper (but i'm not sure)

>> No.1760432

>The picture is, like, at an angle...Slightly diagonal...Is that a problem with my Trinitron, the component cable, or what?

I've never heard of a cable doing that.

sounds like a setting in the service menu might be off, but I can't be sure.

take some pictures.

>> No.1760439

have you ever hooked that NEC up to a pc?

>> No.1760821

Hey /crt/ I just found a Pavilion M70 seriously, it's garbage night and the neighbors across the street tossed it out, and I want to test it out. The only problem is that I'm sure there are no Windows 7 drivers for it. Any way to see if it fully works?

>> No.1760829


You don't need drivers for a CRT monitor.

>> No.1760832

Well, I guess it's fucked then. It powers up and recognizes a signal, but there's no picture

>> No.1760838


Wait, do you know if the video signal you sent him can be displayed? Which resolution do you use? How have you tried to display a picture on it?

>> No.1760849

>Wait, do you know if the video signal you sent him can be displayed?
If you're asking how I know, the LED goes from amber to green when it's plugged into a VGA source

>Which resolution do you use?

>How have you tried to display a picture on it?
hooked it up to my computer and rebooted after changing it to said resolution.

>> No.1760865


Have you tried it on another machine? My Tulip monitor sometimes do this just because it doesn't like my Ati radeon.

>> No.1760896

Just hooked it up to my inspiron laptop from '03, nothing. Went through all the display options, too.

>> No.1760898


Well too bad, I think it's just like you said, it's pretty much dead.

>> No.1761038

I have a fairly decent CRT TV with S-Video, what's the best solution for hooking a computer up to it?

>> No.1761240



>> No.1761534

This has caught my interest. Does anyone here know just what monitor that is?

>> No.1761567

Hey guys, I'm planning on buying an HD Toshiba set, the 30HF85, for my HD consoles. I had heard recommendations for the HD Toshi CRTs on here, but I think someone said *not* to get any with a last digit higher than four. Anyone know why? Everything about this set seems pretty great.

>> No.1761640

I bought this very TV brand new and sold it for a profit years ago. You probably read something I posted about them in these threads.

It was not made by Toshiba. It is a rebadged Orion with a serious red shift issue that is unfixable. No matter how much you like (or can tolerate) the featureset, that color shift issue will never, ever go away.

>> No.1761702


Ugh, if it has a serious issue like that I can do better, especially since they're asking a hundred dollars for it.

There are some other HD sets around here too but unfortunately the sellers are all playing the "I'm not going to respond to you" game.

>> No.1761724

>the "I'm not going to respond to you" game
Shittiest game ever. Nobody wins. Plus the graphics suck.

>> No.1762492


Dat red shifted up convergence

>> No.1763397

Only svideo? Not much choice really. You'll end up with blurry and jittery scaled + interlaced image. Still it's ok for playing old console games with. You can get GPU's with native svideo output ports on them. They should be pretty cheap.

>> No.1763524
File: 68 KB, 1024x768, vidya.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've been really digging my 14m4u. Only S-Video so far, but I've got some RCA -> BNC adapters coming hopefully Monday. Can't wait to do some PS2 via component.

The speaker is surprisingly loud on this thing, too.

>> No.1763548
File: 2.35 MB, 3264x2448, 20140713_004448.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've been trying to get better at taking photos of the screen. Eh.

>> No.1763583

Yeah, I'm happy about the 5ms delay when using the Dreamcast. I currently do not know of a tool to test ms delay on PS2 but I want to say it's the same since I use S-Video on both consoles.

>> No.1764121
File: 155 KB, 752x1063, kidvid_by_tran4of3-d74v7yy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Looking good bro, I have the 14m2u.

I'm Lovin' It

>> No.1764159

Is a Dell Ultrascan P991 any good? I found a good deal on Craigslist but I'm wondering.

>> No.1764209

if youre playing a lot of fightan, be ready to splash out for a new stick soon, i hear the x-arcade parts are trash

>> No.1764289

This whole set is using the stock parts that came with it 4 months ago and still perform well. Second player set has been used by friends with aggressive play styles and still work the same as First player set. Although some of my pals loosened the button holders a bit so they kind of turn but remain firmly attached to the wood.

Even if they do mess up, I'm getting HAPP parts but not sure from where and might change buttons to convex while keeping same bat shape for the stick. Got any suggestions?

>> No.1764630

Do all flat Trinitrons blur at the edges or am I just lucky? Don't see any focus/adjustment option.

>> No.1764638

Mine also does this


>> No.1765785
File: 139 KB, 1200x800, monitor-sony-trinitron-pvm-1442qm-color-14-con-falla-14526-MLA20087201763_042014-F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Lads, I've found a PVM-1442q for pretty cheap on an ebay-type site. The seller says that, and I quote/translate "the image looks blurry and lacks definition. It has a sort of horizontal sweeping to it.".
Now, on one hand I wanna buy it and get it repaired since this one has both RGB and composite in, but on the other hand I wanna know from someone somewhat knowledgeable if I'm not better off ponying up for one that already works. Anyone heard about something like this? Pic related.

>> No.1765796

Does anybody know if there's any way to adjust the screen height/width/position or at least set it back so it centers and covers the entire screen area on an NEC MultiSync XM29 without the remote? Or know of a cheap remote I can use aside from the official one so I don't have to pay $20 for the remote?

I've been messing with this thing for around 2 weeks now, and this is the only thing left that I can't figure out.

>> No.1766153


Maybe it's the tube itself that had an incredible number of hour and that is now dying a painful death.

>> No.1766264

Don't say that, dude ;_; I-I'm sure it's fixable!

>> No.1766836


Try to check the convergence, the color settings, the contrasts and the brightness. Hook up a Wii/Dreamcast/PC/Megadrive with megaCD or flash cart, and run the 240p test suite if you want, but the best way to have a good one is to let someone get this one and try to find a better one for a slightly higher price, we don't know if it's those parameters that are bad, or if it's the tube itself.

>> No.1766972

Tell me about Philips' HD CRTs.

>> No.1767021

What website are you using?

>> No.1767675

I've never used or owned one, but the models sold in the U.S. did not have a good reputation and were available on clearance as refurbished units often.

I do have a small Philips SDTV from the same era as their CRT HDTVs that I like quite a bit.

>> No.1767678


>> No.1767870

Yo guys, do y'all know if the PVM-1353 does 480p?

>> No.1767891

It does not.

>> No.1767950

>600 lines of horizontal resolution

Fuck, so close.

>> No.1767959


copy pasta block:
>TV lines
It's a measure of sharpness. More lines mean a sharper picture. They are measured by the number of alternating white and black lines that can be resolved horizontally. It is not a measure of display resolution(480p/720p/etc); These higher resolution tubes(like the L5 as mentioned in >>1743287) will usually have a higher TV line count, but this is not the determining factor in and of itself. My 20M2MDU is an SD(no 480p) set and has a line count of 600; I believe the 20M4U is rated at 800 lines, yet is still an SD only set. Both sets can do 240p and 480i perfectly fine, but the M4U will have a sharper, more crisp picture.

>> No.1767979

Given that I'm looking for a 14 inch monitor, should I even bother with 480p? I mean, I'll wanna plug a Wii or my PS2 eventually, even if I'll use it mostly for my old consoles.

>> No.1767998

480p is 480p. A nice steady image no matter the size; And being a P/BVM, it'd look just as (if not better from the presumably higher line count) doing 240p.

That said, if it's mainly going to be used for older consoles that max out at 240p/480i, it's not something to lose sleep over. 480i will look quite snazzy itself.

Disclaimer: I ended up getting a consumer HDCRT set as I had dropped enough on that gamecube cable that I might as well have something to output 480p to. Given the chance and funds, I'd have went for a MultiFormat(read: 480p capable) PVM just for the sake of saving space. Your priorities may vary.

>> No.1768013

Thanks Kya, you're the best tripfag out there.

>> No.1768063 [DELETED] 

lel, talk about low-hanging fruit

>> No.1768068


>> No.1768078
File: 259 KB, 567x394, Macintosh_Color_Display.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so I dug out my old Macintosh G3 and hooked one of these to it. I can't believe how long it's been since I used a CRT display but at the same time I started to worry

Is there anything I should keep in mind with this? I don't recall anything but then my family was never very techy, it's just, I'm using it next to a switched on LCD display, is that alright? Sorry if I'm being stupid I just get paranoid about these things

>> No.1768224

Ok guys I don't know much about this. Do component cables work in the regular red white yellow jacks?

>> No.1768231

>red white yellow
That's composite video with stereo audio, so no.

>> No.1768319

I think this is the right place. Is there any reason for me to not get one of the <10$ wii RGB cables on amazon? I've got a trinitron now and think I should probably be using RGB instead of normal component.

Also are there any comparison pics here of component vs RGB or Svid picture quality? I imagine it's probably not terribly much, but it'd still be nice to see.

>> No.1768375

I think he was just asking if it would work as a connection. Like if he has a Stereo/Composite source and a Stereo/Composite display, if he could use the component cables. The answer to which would be yes.

Correct me if I'm wrong, >>1768224. What are you trying to connect?

>> No.1768430
File: 1.47 MB, 3170x498, RGBMonitorsPage03 - Large.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

> Is there any reason for me to not get one of the <10$ wii RGB cables on amazon?
Do it, but are you sure those are actually RGB?
You'll often find component cables mislabelled/advertised as "RGB".

Official Nintendo RGB cables have a scart connector.

>> No.1768450

>PVM picture quality

Well fuck me.

Turns out the trinitron I found on the side of the road is fucked. Picture is all redish and the picture keeps cutting out. I'm 95% sure that means that the tube is fucked. QQ

Should I hunt down a trinitron for pennies or is there a chance I can score a PVM for <50$?

>> No.1768519

How's the picture quality of a PVM compared to other CRT?

>> No.1768559

>Like if he has a Stereo/Composite source and a Stereo/Composite display, if he could use the component cables. The answer to which would be yes.
That'd only work if said component cables also had a composite lead on them; Or if he's talking RCA to RCA cables, and not something with a dedicated connector.

I get bothered everytime I see that picture.

RF is understandable, but composite, s-video, and that horrendous RGB->YUV picture could have all been piped into the PVM just as well as the RGB. This isn't even addressing the presumably terrible transcoder.

Can't speak on the picture cutting out(which could be something as bad solder joints on the inputs in the back) but as for the redness, if it's a newer set (silver case) and part of the FD/WEGA line, that could just be how it was configured before leaving the factory; They had really heavy red push.

>or is there a chance I can score a PVM for <50$?
Do you live in California(primarily SoCal) or around NYC/NJ?
If yes, there's relatively good chance if you search around a bit.

If no, you're going to need some crazy luck on craigslist or ebay, and that's before shipping on the latter. I paid $50 (thanks to a tip off from an anon) for my 20in model and paid $40 for shipping from North Carolina(I believe). Smaller sets may be easier to come by and obviously cheaper to ship.

>> No.1768585
File: 3.82 MB, 6560x2456, 32FS13 vs PVM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Picture quality from a good condition PVM will beat out a sizable portion of other CRTs displaying the same image over the same quality cable. This difference diminishes as your signal quality gets better; That is to say that composite on a consumer set will usually look vastly worse than composite on a PVM, but the quality difference won't be as noticeable if you're using Component or RGB. Genesis games look pretty damn good via componentfrom the Wii on my consumer Trinitrons, but the same picture on the PVM will be clearer and more crisp.

This would probably be a better comparison if they were closer in size, but my smaller consumer set has been abused quite badly in the brightness department.

32FS13 from 2001 vs 20M2MDU from 1998. Color differences are in part from color temperature settings, but they are much more vibrant on the PVM, just not as much as this photo makes it seem.

>> No.1768597

This isn't just 'calibrated red' red, this is 'fucked up tube' red. I tried adjusting the hue and 'warmness' and there is no way to get everything close to neutral. It is a late model silver trinitron however.

As for the cutting out, the TV takes about a min to get picture at first, then you've got about 5-10 min before the picture starts cutting out again. I don't think it's bad solder joints... but I could be wrong.

Also I live in the buttfuck south so there are tons of old trinitrons laying around on craigslist and at thrift stores. I do also like the idea of having something decently large though, and I don't think it's possible to get PVM/BVMs that are 27"+

>> No.1768614

Is the PVM in the picture the one with lovely little rainbow on the side or the dark one?
truth to be told, i can't see jack shit of difference between the two except the other being insanely dark

>> No.1768647
File: 1.09 MB, 3280x2460, 100_4012.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Yeah, that type of cutting out doesn't really sound like a physical issue.

>27"+ P/BVM
I believe there are some ~32in master sets, but aside from being even harder to find, they'd definitely be out of your preferable price range(again without luck).

Hunt down a decent consumer Trinitron for cheap, and just keep an eye out in the chance a PVM pops up. If one does decide to show up, you'll have something large and decent quality to play on with friends and something for your videophile side.

Filename is in order of appearance. The PVM is indeed the one with the rainbow moire pattern and visible screen redraw; Both side affects of photographing CRTs with subpar equipment. The 32FS13 isn't as bad with it due to being having a "flat" screen rather than the horizontally curved "barrel" screen of the PVM and older Trinitrons.

The PVM is much brighter, but that is in part due to the consumer set having seen more hours of use. No setting fuckery/knob adjustments were done to the PVM; everything is at it's default setting.

>can't see jack shit of difference between the two
PVM is sharper with more discrete pixel separation , and has more vibrant color reproduction.

I also played through the level more quickly, but that's neither here nor there.

No PVM equivalent for this, but here's a brighter shot of the consumer set. Can't remember if it was composite or S-Video; Probably the former.

>> No.1768657

>Official Nintendo RGB cables have a scart connector
You still have to keep in mind that SCART is fully compatible with composite so just because it has SCART it doesn't always mean that it's RGB SCART.

Open it and check capacitors, or find a service manual, get a multimeter and try to find out where's the problem. Even if you don't know jack shit how to fix that maybe you can at least learn something.
Or maybe you can try to search for a service menu and there you can adjust individual color levels (mostly).

I was always thinking while I was reading CRT threads, isn't it more about manufacturer of display? I know jack shit if Sony was making their own tubes or not but how much do they differ from, for example Techicolor or Philips?

>> No.1768668

Shit, I meant Thomson

>> No.1768713
File: 3.91 MB, 6336x2456, PVM vs GX Composite.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>isn't it more about manufacturer of display
/vr/ has some real lover for Sony sets, but that isn't to say other models aren't good as well. They just happened to stay, more or less consistently good for the last 25 or so years of CRT production where many other manufactures either went to shit or were bought out and then went to shit; As such, they're a bit more of a safe bet when searching.

>I know jack shit if Sony was making their own tubes
They were, right up until the end. Until ~1995, no one else was legally allowed to make Trinitron style "aperture grille" CRTs.

Aperture grille sets like the Trinitron and it's late copycats like the Diamondtron have different style pictures than shadowmask based CRTs that most other manufactures released.

This is the only personally taken comparison of the two I have on hand at the moment.

I've also noticed that the ® doesn't seem to resolve correctly in S-Video and presumably RGB; Not sure if this is just on Trinitrons or all displays capable of said signals.

>> No.1768721

If I find a diamondtron, is it worth picking up for cheap? Assuming the picture quality looks good without being able to test it with proper input before hand.

>> No.1768729
File: 120 KB, 1600x1200, 18102010032.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I just got pictured TV for $5 at a yard sale.
Is this thing basically on level with a Trinitron? It has a component input.

>> No.1768736

I don't have any personal experience with the line, but if the picture quality is good and the price is right, sure.
This logic is what has lead me to acquire so many unneeded CRTs in the past year, but if you have room, it's no big deal, right?

I do believe most of the Diamondtrons I've heard mentioned have been PC CRTs, but there could be televisions as well; I just don't know enough about them to say.

>> No.1768740


One of you go get this so I don't feel as bad about not living near there. That's apparently one of the best consumer CRTs you can get for vidya.

>> No.1768760

Methinks it's a shadow mask.

Also I found a good little post on identifying different late trinitron models. I think we need a pastebin with useful bits of info like this.


>> No.1768768
File: 1.59 MB, 6498x2434, comp.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

On the left is an el-cheapo chinese thomson that got absolutely destroyed by image compression.
On the right is 20 or so years old philips from taiwan i think it was.
Used a Playstation via RGBC.
Might make better comparisons later on with actual sprites and better image quality.

>> No.1768780

There are a few XBR series in the WEGA line that are SD models. Saw a 36XBR200 at Salvation Army a few days ago; The thing was massive. Wasn't going to, nor could I afford to pay the $60 they were asking for it though.

>> No.1769010
File: 54 KB, 1000x1000, 51sT0b3+F+L._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey /crt/, just got around to buying some new male-to-male SCART cables for my Bandridge SCART switch. I got some Acoustic Research cables off of Amazon at the suggestion of someone quite a few threads back and the new cables eliminated the interference problem I was having. These things are built like a tank, uses coaxial cables, and are completely shielded. Even the insides of the SCART plugs have extra shielding. Very much a steal at $17 each.

>> No.1769464
File: 71 KB, 1024x576, PVM_zpse193e52a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have a SONY PVM-14M2U, but the picture rolls when I play ps2 with s-video. Anyone know how to stop this?

>> No.1769487
File: 35 KB, 640x478, photo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have the same problem with component video on my PVM-14M2U.

i think its just that interlacing on the PVM is so much more noticeable

especially after playing games in 240p

tell me, does it look like the scan-lines are rolling down the screen?

do you see this with any other input?

did you do the 240p test and switch back and forth to 480i?

what other systems have you tested?

>> No.1769523

That pic is horse shit, stop spreading it.

>> No.1769524
File: 306 KB, 1280x956, 5345.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yeah I've switched between 240p and 480i. still does the rolling. Does rolling with rgb. Haven't tested any other consoles yet. will try soon and see if the scan lines roll too.

>> No.1769556

I have two offers of Sony Trinitrons:

KV-21X1D € 20,-
KV-21X5D € 10,-

what do? I don't know anything about the series or wich are the better ones

>> No.1769563


ps2 mostly outputs in 480i. are you sure you've tested 240p content?

do you have a wii with component cables?

also have you made sure its not just bad cables?

>> No.1769570


have you also made sure its not in 50hz or pal modes?

did you test the trap filter setting?

have you tested composite and component input?

>> No.1769576


Ask for photos of the two running and displaying stuff like films, games. Take the one that looks the best, or if they look equally good, take the 5D.

>> No.1769581

man, for that price? just take both. I wish I could get that kinda deals around here

>> No.1769625

was having a random dream last night and at one point I was in my parents house and we were watching a movie or something on a large oldschool CRT and my first thought was 'the guys at /vr/ would love this'

>I need to get off 4chan for a while

>> No.1769670
File: 84 KB, 500x594, 1390079561352.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


g-guys please

>> No.1769675


Using a working CRT is totally safe, there's nothing to fear anon. Just be sure to calibrate it. Just download the test patterns on the 240p test suite wiki, and follow the wiki's instruction.

>> No.1769686

the one I'm looking at only seems to be for consoles though...

>> No.1769719

>Is there anything I should keep in mind with this?
Magnets + CRT = Fuckery.
Everything from temporary distortions in the image to permanent discoloration.

>> No.1769726

that's one of the things I worry about, can I have electronic things around it? I have an external hard drive close to it...

>> No.1769747

Don't stick the hard drive on the CRT with double sided tape, other than that you'll probably be fine.
I'd say a safe distance would be 20 or so cm for most household magnetized objects.
Whilst it is possible to get long-term effects from small magnets in the form of geometry problems, you'll generally quite clearly see distortions in the image as soon as you place the object near the CRT. Easiest way to spot if you have relatively strong magnets too close is the sudden appearance of jolly little rainbows on the screen.
As a general note, if you have an object that is specifically magnetized enough that you can stick little bits of metal to it, try to keep it at least 20cm from the crt. Maybe more depending on how strong the magnet is.
In the specific case of a hard drive, they're usually fairly well shielded, as are most computer components, so you'll be unlikely to get much problems. Cheap speakers are a notable exception.
Just a friendly reminder that electric motors work via magnetization as well. So if you have something like a desk fan you might not want to stick it right next the CRT.
TL;DR You can have electronic things next to it, just not unshielded magnets.

>> No.1769806

I see that a lot of the info here is for hooking up consoles to the CRTs, what difference is there for people just looking for emulation (of the consoles, not the CRT)?

>> No.1769851

Playing emulators on a CRT?
Depends entirely on the monitor and and the GPU in your computer.
If using a TV you ought to use the highest quality interconnect available on it.
see >>1744519 >>1744549
If using a computer monitor then you might wanna pay attention to which GPU you use, not all support the resolutions used by older consoles and computers.
Use native resolution and refresh rate if possible.

>> No.1769874

Thanks anon!
>tfw I now go look at everything semi close to it to see if it has any magnets in them
another thing is when the computer is on, and I turn on he scren, it makes like a noise like static, cant really explain it but I think I rmember that from way back when when I used it

>> No.1769890

The strange vibrating kinda noise is the degaussing coil.
This is completely normal. Nothing to worry about.

>> No.1769912

alright noice. it's kind of like it "lights up", don't know how to explain it, it's probably what youre talking about though

>> No.1770041

I think you get about the same picture quality emulating via a wii as you do with the original consoles... I could be wrong though. Not sure about PC outputs.

I like mame's CRT emulation....

>> No.1770093

>Picture is all redish and the picture keeps cutting out.
I'm sure that the chroma processor is faulty or the TV might just have a problem on the lines which carry green and blue signals.

>I'm 95% sure that means that the tube is fucked.
Burned in images or retrace lines and poor brightness where adjusting the flyback won't help are clear signs of a fucked tube.

>It is a late model silver trinitron however.
Okay, nothing of high value is lost.

>> No.1770113

Hey man, compared to my 13" ironically branded "sharp" TV, this shitty base model trinitron looks brilliant.

Is there any way to fix said thingies that are wrong with it? If I don't find a steal of a CRT deal today I might open the thing up and see if I can make it good without getting killed.

I imagine I'd also need to hunt down a remote to try and find my way in the service menu.

>> No.1770213


If your computer has a DVD player and you have a DVD with the THX logo somewhere on it you can use the THX optimizer.

>> No.1770350

Hey, is it possible that my PS2 should look WORSE on my PVM through composite than on a regular set? I just switched from a mid-2000's era shadow mask set, the sort that minimizes scanlines, and I swear the PVM introduces some bending/distortion around the edges, more dot crawl, and an overall dimmer, muddier picture with a slightly too-warm color balance. There's even some streaking with scrolling text. My N64 on the other hand fares much better, it's brighter and fits the screen, but I can't recall if it matches that of my old TV's image.
Could this be a sign of an issue with the monitor, or maybe the PS2? I swear the picture looked fine on my old one. Could it be that maybe the PVM makes the signal's imperfections more obvious, or perhaps it just has a worse filter (it's about a half-decade older than my other set)?

>> No.1770352

PS2 has really bad graphics, and things that make the picture clearer ironically often make the games look worse. The way to tell would be to play PS1 or 2d games through the PS2 and see how those fare.

>> No.1770361

At least in regards to the NES and Genesis over composite, the Wii outputs a far cleaner picture with less artifacts.

>> No.1770504

I actually had just played the Mega Man X collection before I posted and it had many of those problems, unfortunately.

>> No.1770506
File: 349 KB, 1600x1200, 15072014(004).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>PS2 has really bad graphics
What? Maybe I'm not an expert but I played PS2 yesterday through RGB SCART and it really didn't look like anything he described

>> No.1770721
File: 2.07 MB, 2592x1936, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Okay rolling has stopped. All I did was use a different wall outlet not sure that's what fixed it but that's all I did differently. Thanks

>> No.1770953
File: 901 KB, 2688x1520, c100b2e2-2aba-4798-a1bb-db3b7c54c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


got the 5D for € 5,-
i wouldn't have thought that there would be such a big difference compared to my old tv.
i'm really happy with it

>> No.1770975


>€ 5

Noice! You got one even cheaper than mide (10 €).

>> No.1771028

Yeah, it's the degaussing coil. Mine would actually make an audible *THUNK* noise when it lit up.

>> No.1771046
File: 67 KB, 600x322, cable-types.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

first off, why are you using composite video? use s-video at least (if possible use component/YPbPr or RGB)

if you have to use Composite or S-video, try enabling the "trap filter" setting to eliminate some of the dot crawl

what model of PVM do you have?

>> No.1771060

Small correction to that picture, composite video is only that yellow, rest is stereo audio

>> No.1771063

Maybe he doesn't have component cables, anon! Or maybe he's too anal about using 480i instead of 480p. I know I'd feel at least a BIT uncomfortable doing that, even if there's not that much difference graphically speaking.

>> No.1771069

Component isn't restricted to 480p. Seeing as how it is common on late model SDTVs. In fact, it is pretty much the best picture quality you will get on standard displays.

>> No.1771085

It's not, obviously, but that other anon said he had a PVM. So, unless he has one of the elusive PVMs that can display a progressive 480 signal, the best he can do is 480i. Which some people get really anal about.

>> No.1771103

>>1771063 is right; I'm using composite because I don't have RGB yet. The cables are on the way in the mail, actually.
I do think it's set to comb filter right now, though, so I'll try the trap filter. Thanks. It's a 14-N6U.

>> No.1771135
File: 170 KB, 737x146, compare mcduck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Right, I think the 14-N6U is RGB only (no component/YPbPr)

PVM's that can do 480p aren't that rare compared to the other (older) PVM's

Component is similar to RGB and VGA. some older TVs even had DVI ports.

>> No.1771152

Is there a list of 480p-ready PVMs or something like that?

>> No.1771163
File: 113 KB, 1000x500, trees5838991.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>I'd feel at least a BIT uncomfortable doing that,

what do you mean? why would you feel uncomfortable playing games at 480p instead of 480i

480p is much better.

>> No.1771182

No, the other way around, Anon.

>> No.1771184
File: 607 KB, 1748x1509, C7utET8.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I know that the "L" series can do 480p

I just picked up a pvm-14l5, it can do...

240p - 480p - 720p

(it can also do 480i and 1080i, but fuck that interlaced shit)

>> No.1771198

Shit, one of those costs twice as much as I'm gonna pay my PVM-1353.

... welp, I think I can deal with not eating anything for a month.

>> No.1771202


480i is that blurry mess on the right

>> No.1771210

got mine for $55 online (+ s&h)

how much are the ones your looking at?

>> No.1771220

What I meant, Anon, is that I'd get uncomfortable playing games in 480i when I could be playing them in 480p. Were I to buy a PVM or any other monitor that does not allow 480p, I'd beat up myself over it for quite a while. I just can't into post-purchase rationalization.

>> No.1771226
File: 20 KB, 980x108, ss (2014-07-15 at 07.09.45).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

PVM-1353 = 1300 pesos, which comes out as roughly 130 dollars.
PVM-20L4 = 3500 pesos, around 350 dollars.

3400 pesos is my monthy salary.

>> No.1771242

that's because you a comparing 14" to a 20"

20" sets always cost way more than 14"

that's why my 14l5 was only $55, 20l5 would have been $250 at least.

>> No.1771246
File: 9 KB, 320x275, z_TRF_s50[1].gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>if you have to use Composite or S-video, try enabling the "trap filter" setting to eliminate some of the dot crawl
You know exactly what you are talking about, NOT.
A trap filter reduces a specific frequency while passing the lower and higher frequencies, in this case of analogue video it will be the color subcarrier.

On composite it will be used as part of the Y/C separation, taking out the subcarrier in the composite signal results into a low quality Luminance (Y) while doing opposite results into Chrominance (C). This basically converts composite into S-Video (Y/C).
An modern alternative to the classic trap filter is the remodulation of chroma then subtracting it from composite signal (known as adaptive comb filter, i read this in the TVP5150 datasheet), this results into less loss of details. This makes it more sharp and the dot crawl will be more apparent.

S-Video doesn't have dot crawl as it transmits Luminance and Chrominance separately but bad shielding can cause chroma interference in luma, this will appear as a moire pattern as the equiment won't filter it out because it assumes it is part of the picture.
Using a full blown trap filter on Luminance will make it look blurry as composite at the end, using a weak trap filter reduces the interference and quality while it looks better as composite.
But my point is that equipment might not give you the option of enabling the trap filter or the comb filter in S-Video as it is quite pointless.

>TL;DR S-Video+Trap filter=Does not compute by default

>> No.1771251

you would still need a way of scaling games to 480p

I play all my ps2 games in 480p with an iscan HD

looks why better on my CRT then 480i

>> No.1771272

all I can tell you is that "trap filter" makes my shitty s-video cable look better.

(cheep or knockoff gamecube s-video cables usually)

but thanks for all the extra info.

>> No.1771274

It's not about upscaling rather - I'm looking to also be able to play my PS2 and Wii (both consoles output 480p) on a PVM, therefore I'm looking for a PVM that supports it.

>> No.1771286

98% of ps2 games output in 480i

you will need an upscaler for most of them.

Dream-cast, Xbox and Gamcube (moslty) have 480p native games.

>> No.1771290

This is my first time on /crt/. You guys don't have a pastebin, so I have to ask:

What criteria should I use when buying a TV for my retrovidya?

>> No.1771312

depends on where you live.

if you are in an NTSC area most any proper working CRT with component or S-Video inputs will be good.

if you are in a PAL area you want something with RGB-SCART

some users prefer to use PC CRTs

>> No.1771319

I am in a PAL area.

You guys really should make a pastebin, or a wiki.

>> No.1771331

yeah we should.

I need to write something up so rookies will have a better chance.

>> No.1771351
File: 11 KB, 184x193, guts.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hey /crt/ wasn't completely sure if this was the place to ask but it also didn't seem to warrant a thread of its own.

I have top loader NES and a classic PS2 and was wondering what I should do to get the best quality picture for these systems. I'm hooked up to a pretty unspectacular Phillips CRT and they're NTSC if that helps at all.

>> No.1771353

is a Trap Filter the same as a Comb Filter?

>> No.1771360

>Phillips CRT

does it have component or s-video inputs?

>> No.1771364


>> No.1771395

well, then all you can do is use the best quality cables you can.

(acoustic research and monster should be fine, or just use the official system cables)

for nes get some good composite cables. (never use RF)

(your TV has composite, right?)

and optimize the picture with something like the THX optimizer or 240p test.

(I prefer the 240p test)

enjoy what you now (unless it looks like garbage) and upgrade when you get the chance.

>> No.1771413

Yes to both

>> No.1771428

if you have component inputs I would use those.

you could get an RGB mod for your NES,

but I think it would be easier just to get a modified wii and use retroarch to play NES and other retro games in 240p

>> No.1771447

Thanks. Component out for the PS2 looks to be pretty easily (cheaply) attainable thankfully.

I don't know much about RGB mods for the NES. Is such a thing very difficult to do? I'm pretty comfortable with a screwdriver and soldering iron but I've never done anything too involved.

>> No.1771468

somebody know where i can get the manual for this tv (kv-21x5d) ? nothing to find on sonys website or google

>> No.1771524
File: 231 KB, 420x295, gallery_113027_79_181488.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

RGB mods con be very expensive, and they can look really shitty on screen (jail bars) (you should make a thread about it if you want to know more
If you want to keep using a "real" NES without RGB, just get the best composite cables you can (some people here swore that monioprice was good) and hope your TV has a good comb filter.

Personally I would just buy an old Wii and modify it (should be as easy with any version now)

And other use Virtual Console or Retroarch and play that way (connect with component cables)

It’s a much better experience because you can get real 240p video output.

>> No.1771534


don't know about the manual that came in the box, but this is a service manual


>> No.1771545

>(should be as easy with any version now)
Any model so long as it isn't a Wii Mini will take quite well to softmodding; Even the vWii on the WiiU, though I don't believe the scaler trickery they use on get 240p works on that.

>> No.1771556

RGB isn't worth it on an nes. Composite works fine.

>> No.1771624

depends on the TV (Composite can look horrendous on some CRTs)

>> No.1771628

Thanks for the info. I'm not super jazzed about the idea of picking up another console (I do love the nostalgia of the NES and its controllers, cartridges) but I'll look into getting a nice composite cable.

>> No.1771641

sounds like a plan,


for a good comparison of NES graphics with different connections

>> No.1771668
File: 750 KB, 1690x634, Ultimate NES.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


RGB on NES is "small time"

check this thing out, (I want one so bad)

>> No.1771712

I don't get how you guys flip the fuck out about people painting their consoles or making other stuff out of dead NESes and gameboys but you think abominations like this are totally great

>> No.1771714


how does anyone purchase a Mimo Genius II from Italy?

do I have to convert dollars to euros? (i'm in america)

or can I just use normal credit or debit on the website?

>> No.1771724

I don't see anything wrong with getting better video output.

from the front it looks just like a normal nes?

what do you hate so much about?

>> No.1771731

It's a shame to see a butchered console, but it's his.

I have 2 SMS 2's, one is untouched and the other is modded for RGB output. It's very impractical to use otherwise. And I'll never sell either of them so it really doesn't matter what I do to them.

>> No.1771769

Mostly because if you look at that picture, you can notice a big difference between that and anything people like Drakon has ever done. It looks clean, hot glue isn't freaking everywhere including controller ports and I'm sure nobody would be ashamed to have something like that instead of a destroyed, melt case.
Oh, and don't forget about the main difference, all of those gimmicks are actually somehow useful, but the same cannot be told about a belt with a N64 cartridge on it which on top of that looks like shit.

TL:DR - It's an upgrade which enhances the product somehow

>> No.1771964

People really flip their shit over repainting? As long as the person isn't claiming that the repaint makes it go faster what's the point in getting angry unless it's a terrible paint job.
I would like to see what the inside looks like

>> No.1772014
File: 160 KB, 634x845, UNES4.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

inside of the u-nes

>> No.1772287
File: 452 KB, 654x479, pcrt.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

have you guys seen this video?


>> No.1772348

It wasn't that long ago since that video was in OPs' post in WebM, but it's still good

>> No.1772403

is there any good kinda small crt? something that I can easily take to college or is it go big or go home?

>> No.1772417

What size are you looking at getting? I have 14 and 20 inch Sony PVMs and I know they come in 5 and 8 inch models as well.

>> No.1772423

If they both work then take both. One for horizontal games, one for vertical = LIVING THE DREAM
If you have a TV = http://mame.3feetunder.com/windows-ati-crt-emudriver/
>monster should be fine
GOOD GOD NO, jesus christ anon that is an irresponsible recommendation. You must be trolling or some sort of jew/monster employee.
PVM's come in hilarious 9 inch size if you want.

>> No.1772437

Hilariously, Monster is one of the few reputable brands when it comes to PROPERLY WIRED system cables; Specifically on the topic of S-Video. There's also the matter of all of their magically over complicated shielding and such actually having some use with analog signals.

Hori is a good choice as well.

>> No.1772452

Looks like it may be a signal issue. Have you tried other inputs?

>> No.1772487
File: 609 KB, 500x2812, 1292417455022.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Obligatory monster cable picture.

>> No.1772492

Yes, thank you very much for explaining why all that extra shit is of no use with digital signals.

Now please, re-read my post.

>> No.1772495 [DELETED] 

>I'm a tripfag
>your an idiot and that's that

gb2 reddit

>> No.1772523

It hardly supports you. Much more expensive cable for only slightly better quality. If interference is an issue you'd get more improvement just routing your cables differently.

>> No.1772528

>There's also the matter of all of their magically over complicated shielding and such actually having some use with analog signals.
While all of the stupid things they market their cables with have no affect on digital signals(like HDMI, actual DVI and so on), analog signals can, at least on a technical level, benefit from some of them. This is all in the very image you posted

To restate the first part; Many people, including those in these threads, have had run ins with improperly S-Video cables. Monster is a brand known to have separate leads for luma and chroma and to not just use composite video for both. Hori is another, and of course there is the official system cables as the original post mentioned.

Buy or use whatever cable you want, it won't bother me either way.

>> No.1772535
File: 531 KB, 2081x1387, lWsBW.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

cheep hdmi cables can be shitty too.

I had one (made by GE) all my 360 games looked like 8-bit colors.

and another One I got for $5 stopped working (thought my ps3 had died)

but the Amazon and Sony cables seem to work ok.

>> No.1772549

Only the shittiest chinese game system AV cable manufacturers use composite as a stand-in for chroma. If you're not using a top of the line CRT and proper testing equipment, you'll likely not see a difference between using hastily-soldered speaker wires and first-party AV cables.

Fuck Monster. They are the Apple of simple fucking wires.


>> No.1772557

True. There is a middle ground though for digital and analog cables, you don't have to choose between Monster and "solder in glad wrap thrown together in a sweatshop".

>> No.1772569
File: 1.13 MB, 835x1088, ghouls.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

when people see A name they recognize as negative the just stay on the same circlejerk hate train

That’s what makes the internet insufferable at times, people have one experience and the hold on to it forever.

All of “this thing I know little about” is shit, because of negatives opinion I read on the internet, everybody just wants to belong I guess.

And the quickest way is to be negative about something in unison.

>> No.1772574
File: 19 KB, 300x300, 125011[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>solder in glad wrap thrown together in a sweatshop
My sides!

In all seriousness though, can't wait till electronics are replaced by photonics or quantum teleporting spintronics.

>> No.1772579

It's a problem that's popped up on several occasions, and buying a brand that's known not follow such practices is a definite way to avoid it.

Do I think Monster is a good company, and/or are worth as much as they ask? No.

Like I said before, buy Hori, buy an official one from *insert console maker here*, or even make your own. It won't affect anything I'm doing at all. I'm just trying to clarify what cable will definitely work as opposed to should, could, or might work.

>> No.1772585


Monster makes ok stuff; they just usually over price it. That’s where all they hate come from.

Like a few years ago I wanted to get some monster component cables, but the cost (back then) $100 per foot.

Picked up the same cables for $11 the other day, because nobody buys component cables anymore. lol

>> No.1772587

Mimo is a wholesaler so they don't have a webstore up and running for small-scale purchases. They'll be quite happy to sell you a unit, but that isn't really how they make their money.

Basically you'll have to email them, and state explicitly and in very simple terms (they're Italian after all) that you're an end-user and you'd like to purchase a Genius II. List your name, address, etc. and wait to be contacted back.

>> No.1772593


Still doesn't really tell me how I’m going to pay them (especially if the language barrier is super thick)

>> No.1772634

>Only the shittiest chinese game system AV cable

that's what most people buy. It’s the cheapest and easiest to find.

my own experience with monster is this; I bought some Nycon brand component cables for the Wii and they had ghosting, then I got some official Nintendo cables (hard to find and expensive) and they also had ghosting (not as bad)

At this point I thought the Wii was just a shitty system, however I tried the Wii monster cables on a whim, and they looked great. No more ghosting!

Take what you want from that.

>> No.1772696
File: 49 KB, 640x350, StarTrekTOS.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>can't wait till electronics are replaced by photonics or quantum teleporting spintronics

Include all that in your list of things that will never happen in "your life time".

>> No.1772737

Good. Then I'll borrow someone else's lifetime with age-fighting nanites.

>> No.1772741

I wouldn't bet on that one either.

>> No.1772746

Then I'll upload my neural circuitry schematics into a database that can be retrieved when the time is right.

>> No.1772754

right. that wont be you either, that just will be something that thinks like you, while you die.

>> No.1772757

Not with extreme care to avoid radiation noise and random free radicals, or even preserve the corpse with cryogenic freezing if cloning doesn't count.

>> No.1772758

Technically, you go through new 'yous' many times in a normal lifetime.

>> No.1772806

They'll tell you how they want to be paid.
I'm only reiterating what I read on shmups.

>> No.1772816

Apologies for the late reply.
Anyway um, that's without displaying any signal. The white line is always there, even if the monitor is on with nothing connected.

Might do.

>> No.1772829

Odd. Must be a deep signal issue within the integrated circuitry. Have you tried changing video mode?

If it still happens, then it's probably on a circuit unrelated to video mode. I seriously doubt that it's a magnet malfuction or general magnetism issue given that a straight horizontal line appears. Also, it's too bright to be a suspension wire.

The reason I believe it's a signalling issue is that it occurs consistently at that spot, as if flawed circuitry tells the electrons to always fire at that vertical y coordinate of the screen, regardless of whether there should be visual data there or not, hence faulty logic/bug.

>> No.1772835

Also, would you please zoom in on the screen so we can see the dot pitch?

>> No.1772838

That looks a lot like "vertical collapse" to me. Google the issue for more information I don't know much about it other than it could be completely fucked unfortunately.

>> No.1772842

But can you get a video signal to work at all for other Y coordinates of the screen other than where it has 'collapsed'?

>> No.1772843

I dunno. You'd have to do some research on it. I've seen a few that look like that and that's the problem so that's why I have a suspicion.

>> No.1772845

I started a site to do with educating people on CRT and how it pertains to retro gaming.


>> No.1772849





>> No.1772858

I just finished watching this. I'd say it looks close to it except that vertical collapse takes place in the center Y coordinate, and all the meshed electrons activating the phosphor at that line produce a much brighter visible line with a bleeding effect on phosphor around it. So I'd say it's another issue.

>> No.1772871

could just try re-cap it.

>> No.1772875

I'd still rather ask the anon to show the dot pitch first to diagnose other factors.

CAPTCHA: ityopen closed

>> No.1773103
File: 111 KB, 531x362, 1395139952859.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

dammit, this guy again >>1769670 >>1768078
I swear this'll be the last questions

Do I need to worry about static around it? As in will static damage it
Can I have an LCD monitor switched on close to it?

Thanks for answerng all my newbie questions before regardless, you guys are great

>> No.1773112


Yes you can, even 2 CRT monitors can stay close.

>> No.1773173

Hello /crt/.

What do you guys think of this?



Is this signal converter a valid option for proper retrovidya?

>> No.1773216

Muh scanlines. Muh latency. Muh vidya resolution.

Seriously, though. Why does an important test on YouTube have a god awful resolution of 360p? Is this 2006?

>> No.1773253

>Adjusting screws on the back of the circuit board while the TV is powered up

I wonder how many times a week they arc shit on the back of those?

>> No.1773281

>at work
>switch refresh rate from 85 to 60
Oh my god at first the change killed my eyes. The flicker was very obvious.

>> No.1773312


>> No.1773334

You'll be fine. I have my PC CRT right next to my LCD. In fact both of those monitors are surrounded by powered studio monitors. No interference. Though I just moved some cables around and now I'm getting noise in my audio. And then not far from my PC CRT are my BVM and PVM with a Vectrex near by. Granted there's usually only max two on at a time. Everything seems to be reacting fine. My vidya room is CRT central.
>tfw no longer have dual CRT

>> No.1773336


I cannot stress enough to the people who keep trying to bring upscalers into the discussion that most of them are really, really shit. The only really good ones are the ones like the XRGB mini, which costs 300-400 dollars. For that price you could get a BVM. I can see it being an attractive option for those who don't want to deal with having a big CRT lying around but considering that you still have to worry about input lag issues on whatever display you're coupling the upscaler with and the very low price and ease of finding good consumer grade CRTs, I just think it's pointless to bring them up.

>> No.1773349

Does it really do 720p?
What inputs does it have?
You could even use your 7th gen consoles on it.

>> No.1773380

thanks guys

s-sorry for being so annoying but still don't know about static...

>> No.1773386
File: 1.35 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Lemme tell ya bout old CRTs.

>> No.1773387

Unless you're rubbing your hands around inside the CRT then you don't have to worry about static. Static usually doesn't do shit to electronics while its closed up. In fact when you turn on CRTs after being off for a while you can feel a whole ton of static come off the screen.

>> No.1773397


I wouldn't recommend putting floppies and Harddrives next to CRT monitors. You often see those who put floppies next to their monitor complaining about how they're so unreliable.

>> No.1773404

I'll keep that in mind, thanks anon!

yeah I noticed that, good thing it wasnt anything bad

alright for real now I won't ask anymore stupid questions, thanks so much for answering!

>> No.1773414

Try using a degaussing coil near your computer. B^)

>> No.1773431




>> No.1773435

Speaking of degaussing coils and computers. How far away should you be? Do I have to move my CRTs out of my vidya room to avoid fucking all my hard drives up?

>> No.1773553

As long as you don't have anything important right next to it, you'll be fine.

I tell you what though, it's amazing how little people know about CRTs nowadays. I'm only in my early 20s but I knew all of this shit growing up.

>> No.1773565


That's people stopped to care.

>> No.1773657

>Half a sentence
I guess they stopped caring about things like grammar as well.

But it seems like every CRT thread or when I see people asking about getting a CRT for running old consoles on, they seem to think that CRTs are these mystical creations that have huge magnetic fields and explode randomly. Everyone in the world used these things for decades and affordable LCDs have only been around for 10, maybe 15 years. Arguably less than that.

It's not a bunch of 12 year olds asking about this shit, right?

>> No.1773665


Oops I think I need to re-read my post before posting. I wanted to say:
People stopped caring about CRTs. Next time I'll take more coffee.

>> No.1773713

Are the WEGA Hi-Scan models (16:9) any good? I'd imagine they didn't make any low end 16:9 tubes, but I could be wrong. I also donno how they handle 4:3 input signals but I'd be surprise if the answer wasn't "good, and automatically"

>> No.1773729


I'm using a KVHX32 and as far as 480p/720p goes the TV is fantastic, brilliant for Xbox1/DC/GC sort of stuff.

If you wanted to run a bunch of 480i stuff I dunno what to say, there's noticeable visual delay from the upscaler chip doing some of its magic (which admittedly looks arse), although I only tested with beatmania IIDX.

It handles 4:3 fine although I do have to dick around with the remote sometimes to tell it that the signal isn't widescreen (this happened a mainly with REmake oddly enough)

>> No.1773756

I'd probably be running it from either a wii or PC. I'd imagine the former would look about as good as you'd expect it to even when emulating old stuff and the latter would be able to emulate whatever scanlines or junk like that I'd want.

Do wish this was a super fine pitch and not just a hi scan though. If I had one of those I think I'd actually not use my computer to watch TV shows.

>> No.1773759
File: 777 KB, 250x250, vNuMyNa.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How can I go about achieving glorious RGB SCART for my snes on my murrikan CRT that only has s-video and composite inputs?

>> No.1773765

Hey /vr/, I'm looking for some help to get my retro vidya working on my CRT computer monitor. I ordered a little converter box that converts the Red, White, and Yellow cables into VGA.
Everything is fine and dandy, n64 and ps2 work perfectly, but whenever I try my SNES/NES, it outputs in black and white.
I'm kind of at a loss of what to do, it'd be great if somebody could help me.

>> No.1773771
File: 445 KB, 649x800, tiny_tim.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>mfw I have that same PVM (2030) and that video taught me how to calibrate the picture.

Sadly one day I turned it on and the picture was slightly rotated and I haven't found a way to fix it.

>> No.1773778

You don't. To convert SCART requires component inputs. Your best bet with that TV is to just use S-Video from the system.

>> No.1773885

Did you see the other retard CRT thread on /vr/ right now?
Those idiots said to get an upscaler if you want to use SCART.
Or to import a shitty PAL TV.
Those retards don't know shit about PVMs/BVMs.
Fucking casuals.

>> No.1773887

Oh my god that cancer.

>> No.1773891

Get a real CRT and stop using shitty Chinese converters. You're missing the point.
Pure RGB all day.
>still uses composite
Fucking idiot

>> No.1773971

Adding a SCART input to the TV might be feasible, but this requires the schematics, knowledge about electronics and video signals and skills.

>> No.1773976

CRT monitors are usually higher quality than televisions you dipshit. No need to be an elitist cocksucker

>> No.1774038

Good arguement, kiddo.

>> No.1774063

However, what they generally do NOT do is sync down to 15khz which is necessary to properly display retro consoles' signals, except Dreamcast.

>> No.1774079

>implying there is something wrong with wanting the best quality
Fucking faggy nigger dicks

>> No.1774103

I don't give any fucks about your elitieist SCART or any of that shit, I just want to Olay my goddamn games in color.

>> No.1774193

Then just plug the composite cables into any modern LCD TV. It'd look better than your current setup.

>> No.1774248

They are, but that can only be achieved easily with emulation on PCs. Actual consoles will need line doublers and other conversion to work with PC CRTs

>> No.1774256

So 31khz CRTs aren't real CRTs?

>> No.1774290

We got a few people that are a little too jacked up about their new PVMs running around today but it's understandable when there's also some idiot converting composite to VGA and being willfully ignorant about it.

I'm sure they're both under 22 and I'd love to see them fite4reel

>> No.1774601

I know, I know. Late again!




>> No.1776104

>Electrons are attracted to the electromagnetic fields generated by the coil.
You're confusing Electric field with Magnetic field. Electrons move perpendicular to the Magnetic field.

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