/vr/ CRT THREAD

[Anonymous No.1531220]

previous /crt/ thread: >>1483301

[Anonymous No.1531229]

>>1531220
fuck thats cool.
now someone do these.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEWUxv2yUHs

[Anonymous No.1531257]

>>1531229
I saw a very familiar TV in those commercials. Maybe I'll do a WebM of that one when I get the chance.

[Anonymous No.1531323]

Does /vr/ have anything other than vidya hooked up to their CRT's?
What's the trinitron of VHS players, and should I bother with betamax?

[Anonymous No.1531328]

>>1531323
>Betamax
I wouldn't even bother with Betamax unless you really want to mess with it. Laserdisc players would probably be a better thing to get into.

[Anonymous No.1531329]

>>1531328
> Laserdisc players would probably be a better thing to get into.
Way ahead of you, now if I can just find one...

[Anonymous No.1531330]

>>1531329
They're all over eBay for like $20 or they were five years ago.

[Anonymous No.1531331]

>>1531330
I want a LaserActive so badly. Too bad they're expensive as fuck.

[Anonymous No.1531332]

>>1531328
>>1531323
if you can find find what you're wanting in that format, then yeah its better than VHS. though thats not really saying much.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CT6UlAvKz88

[Anonymous No.1531336]

>>1531220
Kind of off topic, but I just watched Godzilla 2000 for the first time in 8 years. There was a few Trinitron TVs throughout it, and there was even a PVM in one scene.

[Anonymous No.1531341]

>>1531331
And the modules are prone to cap failure so they generally need maintenance or will soon. Mine doesn't work and I only have like three games. The games are what's really starting to go through the roof.

Did you know there's a laserdisc interface for MSX computers? Prepare to have your mind blown if you're into this type of shit like I am.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRnHc2h3baU

[Anonymous No.1531357]

>>1531332
ugh, that propaganda

That was probably comparing SuperBeta with a pre-HQ VHS deck.

[Anonymous No.1531358]

>>1531341
I think I've seen that video before. It's pretty awesome that they did that with an, at the time, 10 year old computer platform when they had much newer ones they could have used.

Also, looks like there's a way to RGB mod a LaserActive.

http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=2795.0

[Anonymous No.1531360]

>>1531330
>They're all over eBay for like $20
>or they were five years ago.
>five years ago.
yeah you can find them for around that, but they've all got like $40 shipping on them. Plus most of the cheap ones are just that, cheap ones.
I want a good pioneer set to put with the stereo system I'll probably never have either.

[Anonymous No.1531361]

>>1531341
>>1531358
Whoops, you meant just Laserdisc, not the LaserActive. The MSX platform wasn't that old when Laserdisc first came out.

[Anonymous No.1531363]

>>1531323

From what I hear the better VCRs are top-loaders. Honestly, I don't see the point of getting into VHS since, unlike CRTs which have some distinct advantages over LCD, they are an inferior format in almost every conceivable way when compared to optical disc. Same with beta, which is only slightly better.

[Anonymous No.1531389]

>>1531363
>Honestly, I don't see the point of getting into VHS
I can get them for .25 each at goodwill, and I'm the only one who cares about them so I end up with good shit too.
>blade runner, spinal tap, escape from NY, and robocop all for $1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5HOt0ZOcYk
Though when it comes to video quality, you're absolutely right, there's zero reason to buy vhs. Which is probably why there's such a good selection for so cheap.
The Betamax is just for bonus points.

Laserdisk however is one of those situations where its not better than say, Blueray, but its not worse either. LD is better at certain things than DVD or BR, and worse at others.
But honestly I'm interested in LD because of the cover art. Having a huge anime collection on Laserdisk would be totally radical.

[Anonymous No.1531391]

>>1531323
I still have a S-VHS VCR/DVD combo connected to an HDTV that I don't use for retro games.

JVC S-VHS home VCRs and JVC/Sony/Panasonic broadcast S-VHS editing VCRs are the best of the best when it comes to the pre-digital VHS decks.

[Anonymous No.1531394]

>>1531391
Whoops, can't forget about Mitsubishi and Toshiba for home VCRs.

[Anonymous No.1531410]

>>1531389
>LD is better at certain things than DVD or BR
What kind of things?

[Anonymous No.1531425]

>>1531389
>But honestly I'm interested in LD because of the cover art. Having a huge anime collection on Laserdisk would be totally radical.
Oh, the cover art is fucking beautiful on LD covers. I was able to find scans of all the Legend of the Galactic Heroes covers. Actually getting that collection would be expensive.

[Anonymous No.1531448]

>>1531410
http://youtu.be/jwhKvGaWsng?t=32s

You have to kinda ignore the stretched image, thats the downside to this video. But it shows the differences in color and detail between the formats.

[Anonymous No.1531453]

Does anyone know how to fix a slightly crooked image? As in the image appears to be turned slightly counter-clockwise.

I've tried everything in the service menu, fiddled with the rings on the gun and the flyback transformer screws and it still doesn't fix it. Is it something to do with the magnets on the back?

[Anonymous No.1531485]

>>1531448
Maybe it's just me, but the color of the LD is slightly oversaturated, and there is more clearly more detail in the BR version.

The one thing I liked more on the LD was the framing, but that's a mastering issue, not a format issue.

The only thing the guy could say was "much more cinematic." If you pressed him what he meant by that, I don't think he'd be able to articulate it other than the framing and oversaturated color.

>>1531453
>turned slightly counter-clockwise
Tilt, though if you've slogged your way through the service menu I'll assume you've addressed that already.

[Anonymous No.1531576]

>>1531323
Been digging around to find out the answer to
>What's the trinitron of VHS players
and so far I'm coming up with a whole lot of JVC "HR" marked stuff, as well as a lot of Panasonic and Mitsubishi.
The "JVC HR-S8000U S-VHS" seems to be the go to top of the line for VHS. Opinions are all over the board, but the JVC/Panasonic/Mitsubishi rule seems to hold true just about everywhere.
Betamax however is a lot simpler, from what I've seen on various other forums, anything non-sony should be avoided. and that the "Sony Super Betamax SL-HF1000" is the hands down objectively best player by a wide margin.

Laserdisc is also pretty straightforward.
Pioneer is the industry leader with just about every recommendation I saw being either the CLD-79, CLD-99, or CLD-704, with a lot of mentions of the LD-S2 as well, but it only plays one side.
There's also quite a bit of documentation on LD players. check out
>http://www.laserdiscarchive.co.uk/pioneer1.htm
for reviews of practically any system out there, and check this site for once you actually acquire one (assuming any of you will do so):
>http://www.mindspring.com/~laserguru/digitalage.html

I'm going to keep looking around and post any new info here, then probably compile it all into an infographic with different price ranges/needs.
You know, just in case I'm not the only one wants to use their new Trinitron for something other than games.

[Anonymous No.1531598]

>>1531576
that'd be great if it was any use to me.
how about some trinitron alternatives instead?

[Anonymous No.1531601]

>>1531425
>LD discussion

I still need to find a buyer for my LaserActive disc.

[Anonymous No.1531603]

>>1531601
Damn, you still have that thing? How did you end up with it anyways?

[Anonymous No.1531613]

>>1531576
Heh, I wouldn't be surprised if you found some of my comments on some of the JVC VCR and Pioneer LDP threads over the years during your search.

[Anonymous No.1531615]

>>1531613
A lot of them were from 96-04.
avsforum accounted for most of them, with a few usenet groups tossed in for good measure.

[Anonymous No.1531625]

>>1531615
Yeeeeep, though I mostly got off usenet around '03.

[Anonymous No.1531626]

>>1531485
Yeah I've tried tilt but it only goes vertically, not horizontally.

Why it lets me do one but not the other completely baffles me.

[Anonymous No.1531640]

>>1531626
That's weird, my Toshibas and Sonys let me do actual full-picture rotations using tilt in their OSD menus.

[Anonymous No.1531645]

>>1531640
Well if it helps it's a Sony Trinitron KV-T29SF1.

There is a tilt correction option in the user controls options but it doesn't do anything, and it only goes from -3 to +3.

[Anonymous No.1531671]

Space Harrier looking beautiful on my Panasonic Tau. This is only through composite though I need to get an svideo cable what would be the proper one for saturn I hear there is a lot of junk ones out there.

[Anonymous No.1531683]

>>1531645
>it doesn't do anything, and it only goes from -3 to +3
haha, wut

I believe you, but only 7 tilt settings and they don't work = funny

[Anonymous No.1531692]

>>1531671
Just get the real Japanese Sega ones and you're fine.

[Anonymous No.1531705]

>>1531683
It kind of worked out in the end because I had another, smaller, Trinitron that I never used because I couldn't get the OSD to fuck off. Display button did nothing, service menu did nothing, every button on the remote did nothing, no user control settings.

I plug it in last night and all of a sudden it decides to disappear.

[Anonymous No.1531949]

>CRT thread

[Anonymous No.1532000]

>>1531220

From your post on the last thread
> - Do you enjoy these /crt/ threads?

Yes, it's a good way to learn new things about this kind of displays.

> - Do you consider them important to maintain in the context of /vr/ as a whole?

It's one of the only thread that encourages me to stay on /vr/, as the other threads I enjoy visiting never last long (Japanese (or not) Computers threads, FM & MIDI music threads. I like consoles too, but the last time I checked one of these threads, it was all about kids and hipsters paying for an emulator on an Android box).

> - Are you here more to learn, or to educate, or to reminisce, or to talk about any /vr/-related stuff with like-minded CRT videophiles, or to discourage people from using CRTs in some way, etc.?

I'm here to learn and to talk about CRTs with other enthusiasts above all.

>>1531323

I have my LD player hooked up to it. I also use them for not-/vr/-related vidyas.

[Anonymous No.1532043]

>>1531361
Yeah Laseractive is essentially just a Laserdisc player that can read data tracks and an interface for a Megadrive/PC Engine that allows it to change tracks and lay transparent video overtop the LD video. That's what the MSX laserdisc player does too.

[Anonymous No.1532047]

>>1531323
I have a hacked satellite receiver and Tivo, both SD and I have them running through a UHF transmitter broadcasting to small CRTs with antennas throughout the house. I also have a couple security cameras broadcasting in this way on different channels.

[Anonymous No.1532225]

Aren't there any modern LCDs with 4:3 aspect ratio? Or you could use some type of older monitor. What do they use on Game Center CX? It has RCA inputs on it I know.

Why would CRTs be better for retro gaming than something like this? I'd like my games to look as good as possible but I'm not sure I want to keep a separate gigantic CRT television just for nostalgia factor.

[Anonymous No.1532249]

>>1531360
Check thrift stores and flea markets.

[Anonymous No.1532259]

>>1532225
There are standard definition 4:3 LCDs. There are even some modern ones being produced. I'm mostly familiar with very small ones that can replace the screens in things like Sega Nomads and Game Gears. They're way better than the old LCD screens on quality and battery consumption but they're still not going to hold a candle to a CRT as far as motion quality and refresh rate go - and I don't know if they still make them in larger size so if you have to get an older one it's going to be using older technology so you'll have longer pixel persistence and shit like that.

I'll look on eBay but I'm not optimistic that I'll find something that's even on par with the 3" displays I buy - of course their small size might give them an advantage. I've thought about just building one into every single retro console I own, for when I don't have a CRT handy.

[Anonymous No.1532281]

>>1532225
The greatest benefit of CRTs is the high motion quality. This is a result of the flickering. LCDs do not flicker*, so they unavoidably have sample-and-hold blur.

*Black frame insertion and scanning backlights can add flicker to LCDs, but black frame insertion adds latency (unless you're emulating at 120Hz), and scanning backlights are rare and expensive. I'm not aware of any LCD with both scanning backlight and low latency scaling.

[Anonymous No.1532286]

I'm seeing very very few native 480i LCDs in sizes much above 10". There are some 13" and there's some 17" Westinghouse on eBay. None of them seem particularly modern. The "Vizio" L13TVJ10 claims to have a 15 second response time which isn't bad but I'm sure it'll have pretty bad ghosting, especially on high motion games.

Something like Sonic where the entire background scrolls really fast shows exactly what we're talking about with motion quality, ghosting, and pixel persistence.

[Anonymous No.1532290]

>>1532225
>using an older monitor

Do you even remember how terrible old LCD screens were? I didn't even bother upgrading my PC monitor until high quality huge ass LCDs became common in the late 2000s.

While new LCDs offer a few advantages over CRTs, such as being lighter, more aesthetically pleasing to look at, and being easier to fit onto a desk, old ones offer nothing at all.

[Anonymous No.1532293]

>>1532286
>native 480i LCD
"Native 480i" on any flatscreen really means "native 480p with a crap deinterlacer that can't handle 240p".

[Anonymous No.1532453]

>>1531671
No RGB/component inputs on that TV?

[Anonymous No.1532459]

>>1532281
My new Sony LCD TV has a black frame insertion mode ("LED Motion Mode") and the picture is so flickery and dark it is as good as useless. Very disappointed.

[Anonymous No.1532470]

>>1532459
It also adds latency. I use software black frame insertion on a 120Hz LCD with emulators. No added latency, brightness acceptable in dark surroundings, flicker looks similar to genuine CRT flicker.

[Anonymous No.1532480]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuGWKr50rJ4

[Anonymous No.1532576]

>>1531705
I think I remember your posts about this before. The semi-permanent OSD is a common Sony thing, but the display button on your remote really should have been able to turn it off. Hmm.

[Anonymous No.1532653]

>>1532576
Maybe it wasn't the original remote? Maybe it worked enough for the basic controls but not OSD controls?

[Anonymous No.1532662]

>>1532453
yes it has component, what consoles can I get a component cable for though? I could get a scary cable for genesis and a scart converter box too right or is there a drop in quality?

[Anonymous No.1532668]

>>1532653
Yeah I remember him posting that he didn't have the original, but Sony universals are common and work very well with all Sony TVs.

[Anonymous No.1532673]

>>1532662
No drop in quality

[honk No.1533093]

Why is it so difficult to find a 13"-15" Trinitron?

This Orion RF only bullshit is getting old.

[Anonymous No.1533104]

>>1533093
The one problem might be that they don't take up so much space that people are desperate to get rid of them.

[Anonymous No.1533168]

>>1532662
Pretty much no /vr/ consoles directly output YPbPr/YUV component, but many output RGB which can be converted by >>1532673 to YPbPr/YUV with little to no degradation of video quality. I have a CSY-2100 which I added a 3.5mm TRS connector for stereo sound and it works great for connecting to either my Sony PVM or through my Yamaha AV box then over HDMI to my Samsung LCD. Some people will just go with breakout cables instead of modding the box like in this picture.

[Anonymous No.1533373]

So /vr/ I just got back from my dads house, and during my visit I noticed a CRT sitting around under some other stuff. I liked the look of it and he gave it to me.

Now I'm the new owner of a 32 inch FD Trinitron KV-32FS100. It is a goddamn behemoth, and I will probably never try to move it again in my life. Will try to post pics at some point.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1533384]

I think that was the first time I've ever been to Aquas or Zoness

[Anonymous No.1533412]

>>1533373
>32FS100
good pickup, grats

[Anonymous No.1533427]

>>1533373
There's a craigslist ad in my area for that exact model with a stand rated for 250 lbs, a combo DVD/VHS player, and an audio tower stand. The manual indicates that it's 480i only. The guy wants $200 for all of it.

[Anonymous No.1533610]

What does one make of this?

http://memphis.craigslist.org/vgm/4412480319.html

[Anonymous No.1533615]

>>1533610
looks like development prototypes. the last cart "Wideboy" was a unique device that allowed Gameboy Advance games to be developed and tested on TV screens using N64 hardware.

[Anonymous No.1533616]

>>1533610
That is some jackass trying to find and most likely proceed to swindle some poor fool who has N64 prototypes but doesn't know what they are.

[Anonymous No.1533628]

>>1533615
>>1533610
Here is an example of the Wideboy setup

[Anonymous No.1533635]

>>1533610
>>1533615
>>1533616
>>1533628

And what does it has to do with CRTs?

[Anonymous No.1533638]

>>1533616
>jackass
>assumptions

[Anonymous No.1533642]

>>1533635
look at this little idiot baby who isnt used to forum threads going off topic

[Anonymous No.1533643]

>>1533642
>forum

So what did everyone eat for dinner? I had spaghetti.

[Anonymous No.1533646]

>>1533643
i am terribly offended by the concept of spaghetti and have reported your post accordingly

[Anonymous No.1533913]

>>1533427
It's an amazing television. My wii looks phenomenal conectted through component inputs, but I'm not sure I'd pay 200 really. If you can afford it then by all means go for it.

[Anonymous No.1533931]

>>1533616
As if people just have prototypes without knowing what they are.

[Anonymous No.1533970]

If I'm looking for a degaussing wand/coil are there particular ones I should look for or will any old thing do?

[Anonymous No.1533975]

>>1533427
You can probably talk him down, Id imagine. There cant be that many people looking for CRTs, especially one that heavy.

[Anonymous No.1534023]

Do you guys know if there is any good emulator outside groovyame to play on CRTs?
Or should I just go with real hardware for a CRT setup?

[Anonymous No.1534029]

>>1534023
I use my wii for most of my emulating, and it works beautifully most of the time. Honestly since softmodding it the wii has probably become my favorite console.

[Anonymous No.1534031]

>>1534023
Same guy here.>>1534029

I'd like to add that if you can afford to buy and collect real hardware then that is the way to go definitely, but not many can, and a wii is really, really cheap and easy to softmod.

[Anonymous No.1534052]

>>1534029
>>1534031
Thanks guys.
I clearly can't afford all the real software now that prices got so high, but there is the flashcard way that can be nice too i guess

[Anonymous No.1534081]

>>1534052
Some of the lingo is lost on me. Are you talking about using a smartphone to emulate on a CRT?

[Anonymous No.1534284]

>>1534282
>>1534282
>>1534282
>>1534282

[Anonymous No.1534290]

>>1534284

>hurr I have no idea of what I'm talking about

[Anonymous No.1534292]

>>1534290

>hurr i'll just say stuff without me having to acknowledge any criticism

[Anonymous No.1534294]

I already have a few great tubes, but I just picked this one up for shits and giggles.

It's all good aside from that little bit of discoloration around セ.

[Anonymous No.1534301]

>>1534294
That game is fun.

[Anonymous No.1534308]

>>1534292

What kind of criticism? Waste of space? Eye strain? The first one is a non-issue if know how to manage space, and the second is non-existent if you have a decent luminosity in your room.

All the solutions on this post don't:
- solve the lag problem, it even create more
- solve the motion quality problem
- solve the color inexactitude problem
- solve the ghosting problem

[Anonymous No.1534309]

>>1534081
He's talking about cartridges that take flash memory like SD cards and run on real hardware. Pretty cool little gadgets.

[Anonymous No.1534319]

>>1534308

Motion quality is better on progressive displays because whole frames are rendered.

CRTs display images by rendering 2 fields, 1 after the other. There are motion artefacts on interlaced video.

Color is one thing I'll give to CRT monitors sure, but as far as lag is concerned, I think you could argue CRTs are worse because of the refresh rates and the interlacing of video

[Anonymous No.1534329]

>>1534319

But you're wrong anon, there are no artefacts when an interlaced video signal is displayed on a CRT, it's an LCD TV problem too. Also, you can still have a non-interlaced picture on a CRT monitor/TV. Almost no /vr/ console output an interlaced video signal.

[Anonymous No.1534330]

>>1534319
So you're either a troll or dumb. Got it.

[Anonymous No.1534337]

>>1534319
>CRTs display images by rendering 2 fields, 1 after the other
With rare exceptions (eg. menus on Chrono Cross), /vr/ consoles display 240p by sending all the fields at the same polarity. There are no interlacing artifacts.

>>1534329
If you have interlaced video you unavoidably have interlacing artifacts. It's personal preference whether you prefer the look of interlaced fields on a CRT or interlaced video through a deinterlacer on an LCD. Neither is "good".

[Anonymous No.1534339]

>>1534337

>It's personal preference whether you prefer the look of interlaced fields on a CRT or interlaced video through a deinterlacer on an LCD.

Well at least the CRT display all the "tricks" correctly.

[Anonymous No.1534364]

>>1534319
>Motion quality is better on progressive displays because whole frames are rendered.

Indeed that's why progressive 31khz CRT monitors are superior to interlaced 15khz displays.

LCDs are shit for gaming because of sample and hold motion blur, they're only good for still images. Flicker is what makes CRTs the superior display for gaming, your eyes can track motion better when strobed.

[Anonymous No.1534390]

>>1534364

Your eyes are also fatigued when they try to follow flickering images

[Anonymous No.1534396]

>>1534390
No they aren't. Meanwhile I get eye strain from looking at LCD motion blur. My CRT monitor is easier on my eyes than my LCD is.

[Anonymous No.1534402]

>>1534390

Because your room's lighting is shit.

[Anonymous No.1534428]

>>1534402
>>1534396

because that's just how it is. Human eyes are less fatigued by staring at the much higher refresh rates of LCD monitors

[Anonymous No.1534442]

>>1534428
>much higher refresh rates of LCD monitors

LOL

Most LCDs are locked at 60hz, while CRTs can display a large range of vertical refresh rates. You have no idea what you're talking about.

[Anonymous No.1534450]

>>1534442

and 60Hz is good. 70Hz is good. 100 and 120hz are also even better.

15hz or 31hz are awful. Office workers with CRTs used to put those covers on them because they caused headaches.

LCDs are just better all round

[Anonymous No.1534454]

>>1534428

>LCD in charge of having a higher refresh rate

But that's wrong anon, LCDs have been stuck at 60Hz for at least a decade or two, and didn't have a higher refresh rate until recently, while CRTs could reach the 120Hz and more since the 90s.

Also, the eyes aren't less fatigued by staring at an LCD monitor, the excessive brightness hurt your eyes as well, and the "sample & hold" motion make your brain work more on futile stuff it doesn't have to care when you're looking at a CRT.

Flicker display don't strain your eyes when you have a proper light source in your room (not too bright, not too dim), and when you have a proper distance between you and your monitor (like 55cm ~ 21,6").

[Anonymous No.1534464]

>>1534454
hey dude there are 144hz lcds now that have very very low latency

[Anonymous No.1534476]

>>1534454

office workers do have well let lit rooms, and they still had to take advised precautions when working from CRT monitors.

There is a reason technology has shifted from CRT to LCD, because they're better

[Anonymous No.1534517]

>>1534450
>15hz or 31hz are awful. Office workers with CRTs used to put those covers on them because they caused headaches.

It's kHz and that's horizontal refresh, not vertical refresh. Please shut the fuck up and educate yourself on CRTs and video signals before making dumb statements like this.

[Anonymous No.1534528]

>>1534517

Yeah, horizontal because CRTs work with scanlines that strobe down to create the images.

The point still stands.

[Anonymous No.1534529]

>>1534476
LCDs are cheaper, that's the only reason. If you're doing office work, displaying 85hz would eliminate flicker on a CRT.

[Anonymous No.1534534]

>>1534450
Unfortunately consoles are locked to 60Hz, so you have to put up with that flicker if you want good motion quality (flicker is the only way to avoid sample-and-hold blur). At least you're not using PAL. 50Hz flicker is painful.

[Anonymous No.1534537]

>>1534534

PAL was created in the 60s to adjust to the implementation of colour, and because of differences in electrical supplies in regions

[Anonymous No.1534540]

>>1534529
There is no way to eliminate flicker on a CRT. My old CRT would sync up to 200Hz, and flicker was still visible when I moved my eyes. I've done testing with an LED and signal generator and I can see flicker up to about 10kHz.

Sample-and-hold would actually be preferable on a 200Hz display if it was displaying 200fps, because sample-and-hold blur decreases with framerate and it would be very minor at 200fps.

[Anonymous No.1534543]

>>1534537
Why would I care? Anybody serious about gaming can acquire NTSC hardware.

[Anonymous No.1534545]

>>1534528
No it doesn't stand. Everything you've said was incorrect. Horizontal refresh has NOTHING to do with strobing, it's the frequency of the video signal. Strobing happens when CRTs vertically refresh.

[Anonymous No.1534552]

>>1533931
Yes, it happens. People have found cheap prototypes at flea markets, and the infamous California Raisins prototype was apparently first found by a guy in a box of random games that a woman was trying to sell to a used game store or something.

[Anonymous No.1534554]

>>1534428
Both flicker and sample-and-hold blur are fatiguing. The only non-fatiguing display (excluding static images) is extremely high framerate sample-and-hold. The best currently available is 144fps on 144Hz LCD.

[Anonymous No.1534589]

>>1534464
The pixel switching times are low but the input lag is generally higher on the 120hz+ lcd's.

Display lag has a nice database of actual tested numbers and the 60hz lcd's tend to perform the best.

If you really want low lag on an LCD, get a commercial IPS or TN panel. The pixel change times are about the same, but it won't spend 2-4+ frames doing post processing to make the picture artificially pretty.

[Anonymous No.1534604]

>>1534476
Cheaper.

Canon developed some really cool SED screens a few years back that combined the best of CRT and LCD style screens.

They just didn't count on LCDs becoming so cheap so quickly and made the SED's unprofitable.

OLED's are going to be the next cool thing. 4k resolution, fast switching times and much better contrast.

[Anonymous No.1534610]

>>1534604
SED is sample-and-hold just like LCD and OLED. It would look like a fast TN LCD with better colors and viewing angles.

SED could theoretically simulate a CRT raster but seeing as the only real need for that is with console gaming I doubt anybody would bother.

[Anonymous No.1534635]

>>1534610
Uh, SED isn't sample and hold. It uses the same phosphor mechanism that CRT's use.

[Anonymous No.1534651]

>>1534635
It uses the same phosphors, but lit with PWM signals. Seeing as there's no raster scan it's unimaginable that it wouldn't be sample-and-hold, because that is the simple and obvious way to do it, and for the most common use cases (eg. almost everything except console games) that looks better.

[Anonymous No.1534815]

>>1533384
Kya, I've noticed in your pictures of your PVM that the red, blue and green colors really pop and stand out. Have you boosted the colors on your PVM? When play Star Fox 64 on my BVM via RGB, the colors look less "strong". Just wondering!

[Anonymous No.1534842]

>>1534815
Not who you asked obviously, but did you addan RGB amp when RGB modding the console? If not, I have heard that you might have to really crank the contrast and brightness on your monitor to get it to look bright enough.

[Anonymous No.1534918]

Was planning on getting a CRT computer monitor to use as a third monitor, for older PC games that use low resolutions or just don't support widescreen and my Dreamcast.

I have a question though, do CRTs have screen tearing issues?

[Anonymous No.1534923]

>>1534918
Tearing is unrelated to display technology. The only way to avoid tearing is to use vsync or something functionally equivalent to vsync. However, tearing becomes less obvious at higher framerates and higher refresh rates, and some CRTs support higher refresh rate than is available on LCDs.

[Anonymous No.1534929]

>>1534923

That's what I figured. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.1535070]

>>1534651
There's no reason it has to be though.

OLED's are the same. One of the big improvements in the new oculus rift kit is an oled screen that doesn't sample and hold.

[Anonymous No.1535087]

>>1535070
And thinking about it, higher end lcd's come with that black screen motion mode shit. I don't see why oled TV's couldnt or wouldnt do the same.

[Anonymous No.1535109]

>>1535087
Black frame insertion isn't as good as realistic CRT raster simulation because it unavoidably adds latency.

[Anonymous No.1535184]

>>1535109
Yeah. But it doesn't on an OLED. And it shouldn't effect the picture quality either.

[Anonymous No.1535197]

>>1535184
>But it doesn't on an OLED
explain how

[Anonymous No.1535213]

>>1535197
On a digital signal?

[Anonymous No.1535291]

>>1535213
What's that got to do with it? You can't blank a frame until the frame has arrived. Doesn't matter how it got there.

Emulator + 120Hz lets you compensate by calculating and sending the frame twice as fast as normal.

[Anonymous No.1535346]

I currently have a Toshiba Cz27v51 (its a 27") that I got for free but have not used yet due to house cleaning/rearranging. Today I found a local store with 2 kv-27v40 trinitrons for $30, and a kv-1204a that he would throw in for an extra $10 (pic related). Is this a good deal? I'm also going to see if he'd take off a little of the price if I trade in my old set(s)

[Anonymous No.1535352]

>>1535346
I have absolutely no idea why that got turned upside down.

[Anonymous No.1535536]

>>1535291
Please, I'm really curious.

An OLED screen receives a frame, displays it, and switches off until its time to draw the next frame.

Where's the latency? I know OLED's pixel response time is under a millisecond. I don't know if its trivial to do that but everyone making vr goggles is doing it.

Those goggle screens are being driven by PC, is there some reason you can't do that with a larger OLED screen?

[Anonymous No.1535629]

>>1535346
Depends on the condition of the sets. What's most important is making sure the geometry is good, no convergence or out of focus type problems, and that it hopefully won't start on fire from some idiot removing the fuse.

I'm not an expert on trinitrons but is that 27v40 a particularly old or new model? I just can't seem to find much info on it.

Around here (phoenix) a newer flat screen trinny goes for between 0 to $50 or so. Most people are just happy for you to carry it away for them.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1535630]

>>1534815
>>1534842
Unless Tekyard, or the client they received it from made such adjustments, no. I've still yet to go into the service menu to make changes to geometry or convergence and the like.

Unless I'm specifically looking for overly defined scanlines (As in some of the angled photos of Super Metroid's various power ups) I leave all of the knobs on the front at their default middle position; Except for aperture, which is set all the way down.

It could be from the fact that, aside from the very earliest photos from last March/April, the CRT itself is the only light source in an otherwise pitch black room; Or from my piece of shit point'n'shoot.


On an unrelated note. I need to stop taking so many pictures and sort the one's I've already got. My "To Sort" folder is currently 7 times larger(file count wise) than that of what I've uploaded to flickr.

[Anonymous No.1535656]

>>1535629
If you want a fun adventure around here an easy way to get free trinny's is to check the cl free column just after dark.

Lot of people in nicer neighborhoods have hoa's that'll shit on them for leavingstuff out in the street so they'll put it out at night when no ones looking.

Just get on out there before the mMexicans clean it up in the morning.

[Anonymous No.1535775]

>>1535629
I've had an ad up in several categories asking for any trinitrons for at least six months now with no luck.
Anyways, here's the back of one of the 27". What's the best way for me to check the geometry? I was gonna take a genesis with me to test them out. But if there's like a dvd or something I could use that'd be cool too (or sega cd).

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1535815]

>>1535775
There are various DVDs with test patterns for that type of stuff along with color correction, but if you have a flash cart for you genesis, you can do the same (and more applicable for retro vidya) with 240p test suite; This also works with a Dreamcast+burnt cd or a softmodded Wii running a genesis emulator.

[Anonymous No.1535820]

>>1534023
Pretty sure you can emulate just about any system in its native resolution via a PC.

[Anonymous No.1535880]

>>1535815
Any suggestions, or at least keywords to put into google?
Crt geometry test dvd isn't really getting the results I'm looking for.

[Anonymous No.1535884]

>>1535880
Nvmd, I'm retarded.
> 240p test suite

[Anonymous No.1536947]

What kind of displays were typically used in arcade cabinets? Plain old consumer grade or something higher end?

[Anonymous No.1536968]

>>1536947
15 kHz round-glass shadow mask RGB monitors for most games

[Anonymous No.1537163]

>>1535536
>An OLED screen receives a frame, displays it, and switches off until its time to draw the next frame.
That means pixels at the top of the screen will be lit to longer than those at the bottom, which means the top of the screen will be much blurrier, and the bottom ones will burn out quickly because the brightness will have to be higher to compensate. If you want all pixels lit for the same time you have to buffer the frame.

[Anonymous No.1537371]

So I'm here to say nicely and with the utmost respect:
FUCK any one who said you can't use RGB/SCART with an American Wii. I'm doing it right now and it looks great. Just like I suggested before changing the region and video mode works perfect. Just change your settings to 60hz in the menu if you're using an American TV.

[Anonymous No.1537373]

Does anyone know where I can get the service manual for a PVM-1944Q? I've tried looking everywhere and it's all bullshit pay websites, thanks in advance.

[Anonymous No.1537521]

>>1534540
I think you got magic eyes or something. Most people won't notice 85 Hz flicker, and personally I don't see CRT flicker above about 90-100 Hz.

I generally do notice PWM flicker on LED-backlit LCD displays, which I find much harsher on the eyes than CRTs at reasonable refresh rates.

[Anonymous No.1537535]

>>1534537
50 and 60 Hz refresh rates for TVs predate PAL and NTSC colour encoding (they have been around since the dawn of electronic TV in the 1930s), and were chosen to avoid mains power interference and flicker from lighting:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/405-line_television_system#Why_50_fields_per_second

[Anonymous No.1537550]

>>1537373
I have a service manual for PVM-144x models if you want, yours seems to be pretty much just the same thing with a larger picture tube so I'd imagine a lot of it is relevant.

Any particular issues you're having?

[Anonymous No.1537563]

>>1537550
Having some small geometry issues with corners, and I'm pretty sure theres no OSD at all on this monitor.

[Anonymous No.1537745]

>>1537521
It's only visible when you move your eyes.

My OLED display phone has annoying PWM brightness at about 200Hz. I read books on it with FBReader configured for maximum brightness and dark grey text, so it looks normal brightness with no flicker.

Theoretically I could modify the kernel to use the hardware brightness/contrast/gamma processing instead of PWM brightness and have the PWM set to 100% duty cycle all the time. Maybe that would cause visible color banding though.

[Anonymous No.1538108]

>>1537371
I don't recall anyone saying you couldn't hook up a Wii over SCART sending RGB. All you have to do is not have pins 8 and 10 shorted and it outputs RGB instead of YPbPr. I'm guessing that it sends Sync on Green since it doesn't have a dedicated pin for Sync?

But, I don't see why anyone in NTSC land would want to do that though when Wii YPbPr cords are easily available and it's easier to get a TV over here that accepts it, not to mention any good RGB TV or Monitor over here will also accept YPbPr.

[Anonymous No.1538125]

>>1537163
Or they could just illuminate and switch off for the same length of time. But I'm sure no one would think of that.

Hell, if the data rate is high enough you could buffer the frame and flash the screen before your, what? Lcd? CRT? Even made it through drawing the screen.

Seriously, I hate LCD's and plasmas for being unresponsive and blurry. But some new technology comes along that can hopefully deliver all the advantages of crt's plus the advantages of the flat screens and you just want to too too on it? Make up excuses for why it can't deliver when its already being used in hardware that does?

I don't get it.

[Anonymous No.1538258]

>>1538108
I've read plenty of things with people claiming it wouldn't work because the chip is wired to do it a certain way, which is obviously false. Also, I have it like this in my setup to keep it uniform so I don't have to switch out between SCART and YPbPr all the time, makes it easier for me.

[Anonymous No.1538270]

>>1538258
Ah, I don't have a huge problem since my PVM has two RGB/YPbPr inputs. I just leave one on RGBs with a SCART-to-BNC adapter and the other on YPbPr with RCA-to-BNC adapters. Probably should think about investing in good quality SCART and Component switches.

[Anonymous No.1538567]

first time in a crt thread

what is the superiority of a crt over an lcd? is it for the nostalgic value or is there something im missing?

[Anonymous No.1538591]

>>1538567
From what I understand: Scanlines, higher refresh rate, deeper blacks, pixels don't look like shit.

[Anonymous No.1538620]

My SD TV has only one S-Video connector, but my PS2 and N64/Nintendo consoles are all connected with their own cables. It there some sort of divider I can buy so switching cables constantly isn't a pain?

[Anonymous No.1538624]

>>1538591

Scanlines and higher refresh rate aren't exactly what we're looking for, as most of the /vr/-related consoles output a video signal made for a display who's refresh rate is at 50 or 60 Hz. But you're right for Blacker black and pixels that aren't alway square (many systems use rectangular pixels that aren't twice as tall as a square one).

>>1538567

We're looking for superior motion quality (the way CRT displays is smoother than LCDs for natural reasons), better contrasts, better black, natural colors. When it comes to computer, there are others advantages with CRTs like being able to display many resolutions without having only one looking decent, having multiple refresh rate possible, stuff like that.

[Anonymous No.1538626]

>>1538620
There are, but many of them are of cheap quality and will degrade video quality. If you get one, make sure it's of high quality.

[Anonymous No.1538632]

>>1538626
Thanks, there seem to be a ton of well-reviewed RCA boxes on Amazon though.

Have you guys ever considered making a wiki for this stuff? I prefer to lurk and read, I hate bogging threads down with questions.

[Anonymous No.1538647]

>>1538567

Many games actually depend on the way a CRT functions for various reasons. Art designed for the way pixels are represented, dithering effects, better color rendition, vibrancy and black levels... The display just looks smoother in general without being blurry at these lower resolutions.

Input lag is also a big deal for a lot of old games because they assume you have absolutely no display lag and may be extremely difficult to impossible otherwise.

Peripherals like light guns and pens simply don't work at all without a CRT because they also require zero display lack and/or need to detect the electron beam sweeping across the screen.

>>1538620

I got a mechanical component/svideo/stereo switchbox years back but I don't remember where. It bears an uncanny resemblance to a Pelican/Gamestop System Selector only the top is finned and it has 6 sets of inputs. Works great and there's no processing of any sort being done, it just physically connects the chosen input to the output.

[Anonymous No.1538672]

>>1538567
CRTs are ideal for analogue video sources, as they are generally natively analogue - this means there is little processing required to get the picture onto the screen (even less so if the signal is component/RGB), and processing is done in the analogue domain or with discrete logic, so there is no input lag and minimum loss in picture quality

CRTs are natively interlaced displays, so are ideal for 480i60 and 576i50 video - modern LCD TVs need to de-interlace this, causing artefacts, loss in quality, and input lag.

LCDs also don't do a very good job at displaying 240p/288p signals (common with most retro consoles), whereas CRTs can display them without fault. The large scanlines shown on CRTs when displaying these modes look arguably better than massive uninterrupted pixels, and is a more faithful representation of how the graphics was supposed to look as they were designed to be viewed on CRT displays.

Also, brightness, contrast ratios, motion quality, etc.

Note: Most the above is only applicable to SDTV CRTs, as ED/HDTV examples generally include a lot of digital processing, and potentially many of the faults of modern LCD TVs (de-interlacing, scaling, input lag, etc.).

[Anonymous No.1538761]

Posting a few POSSIBLY HORRIBLE pictures of the trinitron I got a few days ago.

[Anonymous No.1538768]

>>1538761

[Anonymous No.1538770]

>>1538768

[Anonymous No.1538774]

>>1538770
The dirty, blurry back of it for some reason.

[Anonymous No.1538779]

>>1538774
And finally a question.

Do I need to do anything with this edge enhancement or anything else here?

[Anonymous No.1538782]

>>1538761
>>1538768
>>1538770
>>1538774
>>1538779
Is that the KV-32FS100 mentioned in >>1533373

[Anonymous No.1538792]

>>1538567
Dude just buy a $2 CRT at a thrift store that's approximately the same height as your LCD you're using now (diagonal measurement is way different on 4:3 vs 16:9) with the same connection you're using right now for your SD source(s) and sit it right next to it. Just go back and forth between the two. Play games with fast scrolling backgrounds, games that require fast reaction, games that rely on shadowy contrast etc... If you don't notice a difference just throw it right in the trash or give it to some poor friend. The differences will probably be very obvious though so then you can considering getting a high quality one.

[Anonymous No.1538804]

>>1538782
It is.

[Anonymous No.1538941]

>>1538761
>POSSIBLY HORRIBLE

>>1538768 Looks ok (maybe overscanned a bit too much and slightly tilted), but the rest are out of focus, over-exposed or have other issues.

Some tips when taking pictures of CRTs:
- Don't use a flash
- Clean the screen
- Remove any light sources in the background - we want to see the picture on the screen, not your lamp
- Use a tripod or stable surface

>>1538779
I don't think that edge enhancement stuff really helps, but try it out for yourself.

What is the video source? Is it a real Neo-Geo or some emulator? Looks like real 240p anyway

[Anonymous No.1538996]

>>1538779
Never use Vivid on a Sony, that's the showroom floor setting for showing off everything under superbright store lights. Start at Pro and tweak up if needed.

Color Temp: Warm. This brings you closest to 6500K. You can modify your other presets to reflect changes in ambient lighting throughout the day if needed, but your default should be Pro.

VM: Off, always. SVM/VSM/VM is bad. It produces artificial sharpness around vertical black lines by horizontally distorting everything around them. You can try it, and you might even like it because of the illusion of sharpness, but it's categorically and universally not what your image is supposed to look like. It is a noise generator, and there are people who are so unlucky that they can't turn off the VM circuit on their TVs so they open them up and snip the wires to disable it.

And yeah, fix your tilt.

[Anonymous No.1539037]

>>1535880
Digital Video Essentials
Any THX movie
There's a lot of useful tools around the web
Make a search of test paterns of crt calibration

[Anonymous No.1539058]

>>1537563
>I'm pretty sure theres no OSD at all on this monitor
Correct

Geometry in the corners of the screen is not really something you have control over, though. Are you sure you don't mean convergence or colour purity? Convergence is never going to be best in the corners either

[Anonymous No.1539142]

>>1539058
>Geometry in the corners of the screen is not really something you have control over, though.
...unless you are Magneto, Master of Magnet.

[Anonymous No.1539241]

>>1538941
>What is the video source?
Metal Slug on the VC.

[Anonymous No.1539462]

This has been pissing me off for the longest time. This Samsung is the closest thing I've found for a decent crt, but it has one huge problem. You can see these streaks when there's text. Whenever there's white text on black, it's more visible. Is there a way to fix this?

[Anonymous No.1539481]

>>1539462
that's actually probably ghosting due to using cheap cables. this is one case where Monster Cable would actually help out, since it's analog video. Are you using component, S-Video or composite?

[Anonymous No.1539492]

>>1539481
I use composite. I already tried it with component. It didn't work.

[Anonymous No.1539549]

I have a question: I'm trying to get all the parts I need to make my own SCART to BNC RGB cable for my PVM-1444QM. But when it comes to the sync part, do I need a sync extractor or simply forwarding the composite signal is enough?

[Anonymous No.1539595]

I have a PVM 20L5, and it has something like 800 lines. I was wondering, do more standard CRT, like actual TVs have more visible scanlines with their bigger screen sides and less lines? I wasn't sure if I should be able to see the scanlines from normal viewing distances.

[Anonymous No.1539713]

>>1539595
Those are 800 vertical lines; scanlines are horizontal. And yes, bigger screens have more visible scanlines because the number of horizontal lines is static (and therefore so is the number of scanlines).

[Anonymous No.1539758]

Hey, /crt/, got a question for you.
I have this slight bowing on the top of my crt. I'm familiar with how the service menu works, but there are at lest 70 options, and I have no idea what would fix it. Any advice? The picture is MM9 through a component signal on a Wii. TW is a Sony WEGA trinitron, model number KV-24FS20. Thanks much!

[Anonymous No.1539779]

>>1539713
Do you know if it's a big difference? Is there a comparison picture?

[Anonymous No.1539783]

Where do you guys buy your CRTs? I've been having trouble finding a decent one at Salvation Army without problems with its geometry.

[Anonymous No.1539790]

>>1539783
Have you tried Craigslist? People literally give them away there

[Anonymous No.1539804]

>>1539783
Any of the seven kajillion charity shops in my area will have several. Walking distance from me, there are four different charity shops (about 3,5km/2miles). Between them, they've got several dozen CRTs.

[Anonymous No.1539824]

>>1539790
I know, but I don't have a car. I always tell people who give them away that I'll pay them to bring it. They always say no even when they are close by.

[Anonymous No.1539830]

>>1539783
>>1539790
>>1539804
For the sake of giving you some direction for your aimless search for thrown-away monitors, don't bother getting anything unless it's either-

-Sony BVM (which you probably won't find)
-Sony KV-(Size in inches)FV31
-Sony PVM

Anything else can go back in the trash.

[Anonymous No.1539836]

>>1539830
You just limited their search to the most well recognized displays, and you think you've made their search easier?

I can imagine all the lovely non-Sony displays they will now be ignoring thanks to oversimplified advice like this.

[Anonymous No.1539863]

>>1539836
Why settle for mediocrity? Most CRT teles he'll find just suck or weigh 10 trillion pounds (and have HD that make most /vr/ games worthless, like the very overrated Trinitron)

I'm giving the person a goal.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1539875]

>>1539863
>like the very overrated Trinitron
>recommended only Trinitrons
What?

[Anonymous No.1539886]

>>1539875
I've put the guy on ignore...he's clearly under-informed and too willing to give advice that is disproportionate to his knowledge.

I only feel bad for the suckers who will listen to him and the good displays that may never get rehomed just because some internet rando only knows about Sonys.

[Anonymous No.1539916]

>>1539830
Any newfriends checking in please ignore this guy at all costs.

[Anonymous No.1539954]

>>1539886
>>1539916
>Tell me to be ignored while offering no counter information

Yeah if anybody here wants help, you're not gonna get it from these unorganized fucks that can't even get a decent wiki going. Head on over to GAFs CRT thread or SomethingAwful's retro game thread, peace (Not surprised /v/ immigrants can't do anything right)

[Anonymous No.1539979]

>>1539954
oh sweet Lord, this

everyone who wants to go should do it fast and permanently

[Anonymous No.1539994]

>>1539954
Will they tell me just to buy Sonys? Because I can get that kind of useless advice anywhere, like from you.

I get the feeling you'll be hanging around anyway, looking for opportunities to troll actual discussion that doesn't come out of people's asses. Hopefully that time will come and go quickly.

[Anonymous No.1540165]

>>1539549
A PVM-1444QM will accept composite video for sync without any issues. I have a 1442QM and it works fine.

This is the hideous mess that I use - the cover is normally on to hide my shame

[Anonymous No.1540206]

>>1540165
I remember you.
I see that you made some improvements like the yellow zip ties and RCA jacks for audio.

[Anonymous No.1540227]

>>1540206
I took these pictures a year ago, and the zip ties were always there. The RCA jacks were a later addition, but probably pre-dates /vr/

The pencil supports are by far my favourite part :3

[Anonymous No.1540237]

What's a good CRT that complements both single play a multiplayer? Something fitting for a kickback room. The normal 20' Sony PVM is good but it gets way too cramped for Smash Bros. Melee and N64 multiplayer+Multitap Saturn.

[Anonymous No.1540249]

>>1540237
big sdtv with component input, it'll look great when everyone sits back a little

[Anonymous No.1540252]

>>1540237
PVMs go all the way up to 36" (you just have to wire up a different SCART adapter) but pro Mitsubishi monitors are a little easier to find in large sizes.

[Anonymous No.1540254]

>>1540237
>20' Sony PVM
>too cramped
>20 feet

[Anonymous No.1540353]

>>1540254
considering over half the room would be taken up by the tv, I imagine it would be pretty cramped.

[Anonymous No.1540362]

>>1540249
>>1540252
Is the Sony KV-27FV310 good or will it be too widescreen and High def for pre-N64 systems?

[Anonymous No.1540375]

>>1540362
That is neither widescreen nor HD; it's a good retro TV.

[Anonymous No.1540404]

>>1540375
What year was it manufactured? I was under the impression that post-2000 consumer CRTs of that size were not good for retro gaming.

[Anonymous No.1540432]

>>1540404
2003, and the advice you heard is completely wrong. Excellent SDTVs were still being made well into the '00s.

[Anonymous No.1540453]

>>1534294
>>1534294
If you have a few tubes and you want to service them on your own, go ahead and buy a degaussing coil to fix your color filter problem. >>1535346
I would definitely try getting your hands on at least one of them, if there are any convergence problems or anything of that nature you can adjust the tube by taking off the back panel and turning the paddles next to the yoke while looking at a test pattern on the screen from a color generator. If you don't want to buy a color generator, you can just pick a game or something and try to calibrate the screen until it looks nice. That TV looks way nice though, try and get it.
>>1539779
Gotta adjust that convergence haha

This is a picture of my 1986 Zenith Custom Series CRT I got at the dump just recently, shit is not bad.

[Anonymous No.1540460]

>>1540254
He must have giantism

[Anonymous No.1540461]

>>1531328
Man, me and a friend found a couple in a garage sale once, and the guy had a whole buncha discs in like new sleeves, the first one we got from him was busted, the second one broke in about two months, they are touchy mother fuckers

[Anonymous No.1540467]

>>1540237
reminds me of playing goldeneye on my little 13"er

[Anonymous No.1540472]

>>1540165
Nice pencils lol

[Anonymous No.1540479]

got a new pvm

pretty sweet

[Anonymous No.1540530]

>>1540479
Damn that looks cash.

[Anonymous No.1540536]

I use a Panasonic CT-2701. It's heavy as shit and the Wii menu screen is slightly off center on one side so it flares my OCD up!

[Anonymous No.1540638]

I got this for 50dlls, shit was so freaking heavy it needed help from my dad, a friend and me to carry it to my room and we needed to put it down to rest a little before reaching my room.

I didn't realize how big it is until it was in my room, I just hope it never stop working because I surely don't want to move it again.

I don't know which model it is though, I just was looking for the tv that had more inputs.

I did good?

>>1540453
I still want to play battletoads with you.

[Anonymous No.1540648]

>>1540638
Hahaha! Hell yeah man, nice Trinitron by the way.

[Anonymous No.1540651]

>>1540536
Look up how to calibrate the convergence on CRT T.Vs, you can fix that offset! Have fun, tubes are a blast.

[Anonymous No.1540659]

>>1540638
Nice dude. I'm this guy here.>>1538768

Them bitches are certainly not light. What is the model number of yours?

[Anonymous No.1540664]

>>1539830
Hey man, what about Zenith? You need to look at more tubes hoss, there are a lot of greats out there.

[Anonymous No.1540685]

>>1540659
This photo wasn't easy to take.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1540702]

>>1540685
>HDCRT
Welp

Nice for 6th gen+, but there are better options out there for retro.

I''ve been looking for a nice HD Trinitron, so I'd be happy with it.

[Anonymous No.1540710]

>>1540685
>>1540702
Great, GREAT displays for non-retro games. I have Sony and non-Sony CRT HDTVs for Dreamcast and later, and I love them. Not the best for retro.

[Anonymous No.1540716]

>>1540702
How were you able to tell it was an HDCRT? Is the XBR line HD?

[Anonymous No.1540718]

>>1540453
>that Zenith faux wood paneling
Makes me wish my Zenith Space Commander still worked.

[Anonymous No.1540717]

>>1540702
>>1540710

It certainly looks good with my snes/64 on s-video and ps1/ps2 with component, but yeah I think a smaller non hd crt tv would look better, I really would like to try a PVM but they are incredibly rare here in Mexico, I'll probably go to the US just to get one.

Hell I just realized that it can display 1080i, and boy it do look nice with my ps3

[Anonymous No.1540726]

>>1540716
No, there are SD CRT XBRs so that's not enough information by itself. But that model is an HDTV. Just do a web search on the model number.

[Anonymous No.1540729]

>>1540718
What's the matter with it?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1540731]

>>1540716
Google helps.

Anytime I see a FD/WEGA set posted and listed under XBR, I assume as much. It was Sony's high end "tag" so it makes sense.

>>1540726
Most of the SD XBRs have the mid 90's black casing though, do they not?

[Anonymous No.1540732]

>>1540729
It won't power on. I'm guessing there's either a loose or broken solder connection somewhere or that something in the power supply isn't working. I haven't taken a close look at it yet because I've been working on a couple of Sony PVM's

[Anonymous No.1540741]

>>1540731
You said it yourself: most.

[Anonymous No.1540748]

>>1539058
This is basically whats going on

[Anonymous No.1540754]

>>1540732
You might have a bad capacitor in the circuit that supplies voltage to the tube, you should test for resistance on all of your capacitors and replace any that give you any resistance reading. Or maybe your power switch took a shit.

[Anonymous No.1540752]

>>1540748
does it have a service menu?

[Anonymous No.1540757]

>>1540752
No it's a PVM-1944Q, too old for an OSD.

[Anonymous No.1540762]

>>1540748
There might be some picture orientation paddles on the yoke, your convergence looks pretty damn good though.

[Anonymous No.1540779]

>>1531448
>>1531485

As the other Anon says, the differences between the two are strictly a mastering issue. All the space/fidelity in the world won't help you if you have shit mastering. The same was argued heavily for Star Wars' original DVD/HD releases; Special Edition additions aside, the colors and saturation are all the fuck over the place, and he mastered at 1080p which is absolute garbage for a digital master, even at the time he did it in 2004.

[Anonymous No.1540823]

>>1540762
Yeah the convergence is pretty great, just this problem that I'm having right now is annoying sometimes when theres text at the top of the screen you can see it being tilted.

[Anonymous No.1540835]

>>1535346
Alright, I'm definitely going to pick up one of those, since after testing the Toshiba a bit, I realized that there's some color issues with it. They look more vibrant, but its got these vertical yellow-ish bars (only really visible against black or white, but still). I also realized how bad the audio is on my Emerson, so now that'll constantly be in my mind if I keep it. :(

Oh well, hopefully the next set is better than both of these. I'm going to take my SCD with 240p test suite and check out a bunch of different sets. Not just the Trinitrons, although thats what I'm expecting to pick up. I'll let you know what I find regardless.

[Anonymous No.1540847]

>>1540835
Toshiba

[Anonymous No.1540850]

>>1540847
emerson

[Anonymous No.1540865]

>>1540835
Those yellow bars are normally a console issue for some Genesis models, not a TV issue.

Have you tried other systems on that specific Toshiba?

[Anonymous No.1540938]

>>1540865
Yes, I know its not the genesis causing the issue.
It's a first run HD, but it displays fine on every other tv I've tried it on. I Also tried my SNES on it, which gave me yellow bars.

[Anonymous No.1540974]

>>1539830

Why do you hate anything that isn't a sony monitor? There are wonderful NEC, Mitsubishi, Ikegami and Zenith monitors out there. Commodore and Atari monitors are pretty good too.
This guy is right >>1539916 .

>>1539875

The guy you're answering to is either dumb as fuck or a troll. He didn't brother reading the thread and is giving a pussy argument (hurr I can't lift a CRT therefore they suck and are deprecated) in order to prove his point.

>>1540165

Thanks anon, now I only need to find some coaxial cable that doesn't cost an arm (the website I buy from was supposed to be for industrial purpose, so I get reduced prices, but some products come in such a great quantity that it's hard to have it for cheap, like all these coax cable that have a minimum length of 100 meter) and I will be able to make my cable..

[Anonymous No.1540975]

>>1540938
Curious, does it happen regardless of composite, S-video, or component?

Have you ever opened it to check for blown caps?

[Anonymous No.1540989]

>>1540975
I actually dont own anything in composite or s-video, so I cant check. And honestly I don't quite care enough about it to repair it. I got it for free after all.

[Anonymous No.1540993]

>>1540989
Oh well, make sure to pass it on to someone with more of an interest in getting it to work right.

free != worthless

[Anonymous No.1541001]

>>1540993
I wish I could, but I dont know anyone like that. Everyone I know only cares about flatscreens and HDMI, and whatnot.
Its not going into the trash, but unfortunately I cant choose the type of person who'll get it.

[Anonymous No.1541017]

>>1540835
Maybe you should degauss your screen, they need a good scrambling every now and then hahah.

[Anonymous No.1541052]

Any recommendations for a component to RGB transcoder?

My CRT monitor has a VGA input and RGB BNC inputs, but no option for component. I've been looking at either a component to RGB or component to VGA device, but I don't know what to look for nor do I know which options will not degrade picture quality or introduce lag.

[Anonymous No.1541058]

>>1541052

Most consoles output RGB directly, you just need the SCART cable needed to ouput RGB, and a SCART to BNC cable.

[Anonymous No.1541109]

>>1541052
http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/Sync-Strike::15.html
http://arcadeforge.net/Scaler-and-Strike-Devices/VGA-DSUB-15pin-HD-auf-BNC-Kabel-2m::77.html

[Anonymous No.1541176]

>>1535346
Funny, I *just* got a free KV-27V40 to replace my RF-only Goldstar. The corners seem like they're a bit out of focus, but I doubt that has anything to do with this specific model. Overall, I'm pretty happy, though if I had to spend $30 I'd definitely make sure the screen was close to perfect

[Anonymous No.1541331]

>>1540651
That is not convergence.

>>1540536
There is normally a horizontal centre control somewhere, either in the service menu or inside the TV. Unfortunately on my early 2000s Panasonic TV it was one of the few things that could not be controlled through the service menu, but I have a European model so it may be totally different to yours.

But if you're not noticing a slight off-set at all times then it may be another problem.

[Anonymous No.1541343]

>>1540748
The picture is slightly tilted clockwise. That is a geometry issue allright, but looking in the service manual for the PVM-144x there is no specific adjustment for this unfortunately.

>>1540752
There is no OSD or service menu on PVMs from the late '80s - mid '90s with controls like pic related, i.e. PVM-134x, 144x, 194x, 204x, and probably others.

[Anonymous No.1541347]

>>1540762
If it's the same as the PVM-134x/144x then all the rings on the yoke are for convergence and purity/landing, and there are are 12 deflection controls on the main board ("A" board) but none for tilt.

[Anonymous No.1541353]

>>1540847
>>1540850
Convergence and geometry is notably shit on the Emerson in comparison - look at all the red bleeding out the side of the yellow text, for example. This is typical of cheap flat CRTs.

[Anonymous No.1541357]

>>1540974
>Thanks anon, now I only need to find some coaxial cable that doesn't cost an arm (the website I buy from was supposed to be for industrial purpose, so I get reduced prices, but some products come in such a great quantity that it's hard to have it for cheap, like all these coax cable that have a minimum length of 100 meter) and I will be able to make my cable..

I don't think it would be viable to buy online unless you want a big roll of the stuff.
Try and find some local electrical/electronics shop who will cut co-ax to length. I used RG59, and it was cheap.

RG6 is probably easier to find but thicker and less flexible, and overkill for this application.

[Anonymous No.1541365]

>>1541357

I see, thanks for the advice anon.

[Anonymous No.1541420]

I recently got a Toshiba 14AF44 for around $30 on eBay.

[Anonymous No.1541445]

>>1541420
when does that background show up on the super gameboy? only when you're in pewter city or something?

that just looks so damn cozy

[Anonymous No.1541456]

>>1541445
If you leave the game alone for a bit, it will begin to slowly change from day to night.

[Anonymous No.1541459]

When I SNES or PS1, there's always two black bars on the sides of the screens, and it bothers me that it doesn't take up the whole screen. But, when I play a DVD on my PS2, it'll take up the whole screen. What's going on?

[Anonymous No.1541467]

>>1541420
Good get. People underestimate small TVs in favor of monitors too often.

>>1541459
Is your CRT a widescreen model?

[Anonymous No.1541468]

>>1541459
>>1541467
>Is your CRT a widescreen model?
Scratch that. Instead, what is the model of your display?

[Anonymous No.1541481]

>>1541468
Sonly PVM 20L5.
I'm pretty sure it's not cause I have to play movies in fullscreen instead of widescreen, and the only way I get 16:9 is by actually setting it to 16:9, but I could be wrong.

[Anonymous No.1541485]

>>1541481
*Sony

[Anonymous No.1541510]

>>1541481
Is your PS2 one of the later models that does DVD in progressive scan and are you using a signal/cable capable of 480p?

[Anonymous No.1541532]

My PVM has this 9-pin RGB connector. Is it possible to hook up a vga signal through this with the right adapter?

[Anonymous No.1541536]

>>1541532

[Anonymous No.1541546]

What is the "Model M" of tv's? Also, are CRT's still being produced?

[Anonymous No.1541552]

>>1541532
>>1541536
No, VGA is analog.

[Anonymous No.1541558]

>>1541532
>>1541536

It's not made for VGA (as >>1541552 say) but for CGA/EGA/Commodore 128 digital RGB output.

[Anonymous No.1541571]

>>1541546
>Also, are CRT's still being produced?

Yes, Ikegami still sell CRTs as High-End broadcasting monitors, and some company in Taiwan sell some too (in multiple parts, most of the time the tube itself with the power supply and the driver board included. Useful when you want to make your own arcade cabinets).

[Anonymous No.1541592]

>>1541510
I'm not sure, but I have the 39001 ps2. And I'm pretty sure it does, since when I turn on a console, it'll say 480/60I

[Anonymous No.1541596]

>>1541592
That's because you have to set it to 480p. If you stop a movie with the circle button and go into the select menu you should find "Progressive scan" as an option if your PS2 is capable of playing DVDs at 480p. Games are the same way; you need to specifically set them up for progressive scan, whether it be a button combination at the start or simply in the menu.

[Anonymous No.1541609]

>>1541596
I don't think I can do that on the SNES, is possible it's in the menu of the crt?

[Anonymous No.1541620]

>>1541609
Well, the SNES doesn't do 480p, so saying it's displaying 480/60i is natural (It's still displaying at 240p, though. The 20L5 just considers that 480i when telling you what resolution it's at)

Actually, I just read the string of posts and I think I understand your question now. At first I thought you were just trying to get 480p off the PS2 on your 20L5. The black bars on the side of 4:3 content is basically due to the 20L5 having a ridiculously small overscan, even when not on Underscan mode. If you want to adjust the horizontal axis, you can go into the service menu by going into the menu, then pressing degauss+enter simultaneously. After that it should be the second option on the menu, Deflection, then from there it's Raster H. In that menu you can adjust the center and size, among other things. Just be careful you don't mess something up without writing it down or taking a snapshot of the default menu configurations for everything in the service menu.

[Anonymous No.1541650]

>>1541620
Wow, thanks man. It works. I stretched it just enough so that it fills the screen without going over and losing any of the picture. I'm afraid that I might be stretching it too much though. Is this a common with CRTs, that they have a small overscan? Maybe I could pick up another CRT that doesn't have this problem.

[Anonymous No.1541719]

>>1541650
On the contrary, most CRT TVs have unusually high overscan. When viewing modern TV broadcasts with graphics packages that expect you to be using a digital TV, many screen elements on the edges will commonly be cut off by quite a bit.

[Anonymous No.1541804]

>>1541552
>>1541558
Thank you. I'll look more into an Extron box then.

[Anonymous No.1541831]

Does something look wrong with this PVM? I was thinking maybe the geometry was messed up but the menu wouldn't be cut off like that. Can a CRT even lose lines like that or are we just seeing that weird effect CRTs have through cameras?

[Anonymous No.1541859]

>>1533093
Seriously, I've been searching high and low for a 13" for my desk, but to no avail.

[Anonymous No.1541898]

>>1541859
I have two 13" Trinitrons in my living room, flanking the HDTV. One from 1987 one from 2004 they're great. I even left both their 99 cent price tags on them.

[Anonymous No.1541941]

>>1541898

>99 cents price tag

Wow! That's a really nie grab anon, congrat!

[Anonymous No.1541951]

>>1541831
Looks like a camera effect to me. Some CRT's lose their vertical hold and create an effect similar to that, but the OSD would likely either be vertically compressed or in the wrong place.

[Anonymous No.1542001]

Anyone know how to add composite input to an rgbi/analog rgb monitor? I have an old philips amiga/c128 monitor with only rgb in.
I can get black and white image by inputting the composite signal to the analog r, g, b and composite sync inputs. how do i make it color? can i make it color? both 50 and 60hz image are shown in b&w.

[Anonymous No.1542012]

>>1541831
Maybe it's set to 16:9? Could be a camera issue as per >>1541951 too - if you take a photo of a CRT with a shutter speed faster than the vertical refresh rate of the display (50/60 Hz with TVs) then you'll get big black horizontal bars rolling along the screen. I'm not sure what the OSD is supposed to look like on that model.

[Anonymous No.1542027]

>>1541859
Don't just limit yourself to Trinitrons if you can't find them. There are many other manufacturers of decent TVs.

>>1542001
You'll need something to decode the PAL or NTSC colour into RGB components. I'm not aware of any devices that do this outside of butchering a TV set, and that is probably not an easy task unless you're good at electronics.

[Anonymous No.1542069]

>>1541343
Dude, you have to tilt the yoke, I just found a video of a guy who tilted his as far as 90 degrees; you have to un-tape it and give it a twist in the right direction.

[Anonymous No.1542130]

>>1542069
You have a link to this video?

The service manual only mentions moving the yoke for adjusting purity and convergence. I'd imagine it's quite easy to fuck them up if you move the yoke at all.

One other thing to note: These PVMs are designed for east-west orientation, so if you've got it facing north or south you may get a slight tilt among other minor issues.

[Anonymous No.1542141]

>>1542130
>These PVMs are designed for east-west orientation, so if you've got it facing north or south you may get a slight tilt among other minor issues.
the direction your tv faces can have that much of an impact? really?

[Anonymous No.1542159]

>>1542141
The magnetism of the earth is supposedly strong enough to cause the slant.
>>1542130
The video I found doesn't show him actually doing it, but I guess it is possible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udj24W366Sk

[Anonymous No.1542164]

>>1542141
Yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2k8wKHIJCE

[Anonymous No.1542167]

>>1542159
You might not even have to take the tape off
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5xxoVD1JOw

[Anonymous No.1542183]

What's the best CRT television for playing old consoles on?

[Anonymous No.1542259]

>>1542183
There are many that are great for old consoles, T.V.s of the same vintage as your console you're playing on are usually your best bet. There are many different displays that are excellent, Sony, RCA, and Zenith are pretty good manufacturers. I would avoid Emerson and the CRTs that don't have brand names on them.

[Anonymous No.1542656]

>>1541951
>>1542012
I took a chance and got it. It was only $30 so no big deal if its fucked. Apparently just one PVM isn't enough for me. Will post updates when I get it.

[Anonymous No.1542663]

>>1542656

How much are you paying for shipping? Usually the shipping cost is through the roof because of how big and heavy they can be.

[Anonymous No.1544115]

Don't mind me, just postin' my beloved Quintrix

[Anonymous No.1544123]

>>1544115

Nice tube!
Is it the arcade, Megadrive or x68000 version of super hang on?

[Anonymous No.1544192]

With crt/vcr combos, how is the vcr usually connected to the screen internally, and would it make doing an rgb mod any easier?

[Anonymous No.1544203]

>>1544192
I would guess most of them would be connected over composite. Those CRT/VCR combos are meant to be cheap, cost effective solutions for consumers, not high quality.

[Anonymous No.1544903]

>>1544192
They'll almost certainly be CVBS.
VHS carries separate luma and chroma signals, so converting it to RGB would not gain you anything, and the bandwidth is so crappy you will barely gain anything from s-video (Y/C) connections either. Only S-VHS decks have s-video outputs.

Your best bet would be a DVD combo, however it's possible to get in an external RGB input with many TVs by hacking the inputs used for OSDs, CC, teletext, etc. Use the Googles, there's a lot out there.

[Anonymous No.1544919]

>>1544123
Judging by the borders, I'd imagine Mega Drive

[honk No.1544983]

Finally decided to grab my old 20" Trinitron from my parents' place.

Somehow the glass desk is holding it up. It is 6mm tempered glass and I put it so the weight is on support beams, but you don't know fear.

[Anonymous No.1545187]

>>1544983
I'm still on the lookout for a good rolling TV stand that will hold my 20" PVM. I'm using the cardboard box the PVM came in as a stand. The stand I've used for a 13" TV is pretty wobbly and I don't trust it with something heavier.

[Anonymous No.1545198]

Where can I get patterns to help fix the geometry on my TV? Are there games or anything that have good patterns?

[Anonymous No.1545241]

>>1545187
Go to Good Will / Salvation army and you are bound to find a nice little small table to hold your PVM. Or look on Craigslist, you would be surprised how many people are selling small little TV stands for 30 bucks or less.

[Anonymous No.1545249]

>>1545187
>The stand I've used for a 13" TV is pretty wobbly and I don't trust it with something heavier.
so you put it on a cardboard box instead?
that must be one hell of a box.

>>1545198
see
>>1535815
>240p test suite

[Anonymous No.1545618]

>>1545249
This is a pretty dumb question but.
The type of cable used during calibration shouldn't affect it right? What I mean is if I calibrate using composite (since that's the only cable I have for a Dreamcast) will it still be fine when I use component for other cosoles?

[Anonymous No.1545828]

>>1545618
You actually should calibrate separately for every signal type you'll be using because most displays with multiple inputs will maintain separate settings for each one.

[Anonymous No.1546010]

>>1540685

FD Trinitron Wega = HD

The tube can display non-HD just fine and probably looks very nice. The issue with it being an HDCRT is that there's an image processing stage that introduces a lot of input latency for games.

>Mass: 108KG

Somebody should have taken a video of the moving process.

[Anonymous No.1546016]

>>1545828
Does anyone know some kind of calibration test for the PS2?

[Anonymous No.1546021]

Getting this TV was such a fucking good idea. Thank you guys for existing.

[Anonymous No.1546037]

>>1546010
>FD Trinitron Wega = HD
No, there are SD FD Wegas.

[Anonymous No.1546043]

>>1542069
I've never done any adjustments before, how dangerous would it be to fuck with the yoke?

[Anonymous No.1546049]

>>1546037
He speaks the truth. This one >>1546021
isn't HD

[Anonymous No.1546096]

Hey /crt/
Is there a 480i/480p multiscan EDTV with component input out there for me?

[Anonymous No.1546109]

>>1546043
Honestly, I have never done any adjustments either; but, from what I can see it looks like it could be pretty involved. I'm sure you could get away with just turning it a little bit, but anything past a few degrees is probably a little risky. Just be easy on it and don't force anything and I think you'll be fine haha.

[Anonymous No.1546126]

>a few weeks ago
>heading home from work at around midnight
>foreclosed house in my neighborhood, all of their shit is in their front yard
>see an old TV as I drive past it
>maybe I'll grab that tomorrow when it's not raining like hell, hopefully it'd still work
>next day
>go up the street
>it's gone

you motherfucker

[Anonymous No.1546140]

>>1546096
No EDTVs that I know of, just monitors that sync at both SD and HD resolutions. If any exist, I'd love to hear about them.

Part of it is that when EDTVs were being produced in the late '90s there was no attention being paid to latency issues beyond maybe audio-video sync. They were considered all-around improvements over SDTVs with no understanding of the desirability of scanning natively at 15kHz.

[Anonymous No.1546164]

Should I get a Sony KV-30HS420? Seems like the closest thing I'll ever get to a perfect all-around TV.

[Anonymous No.1546167]

>>1546164

Forgot pic, for whatever it's worth

[Anonymous No.1546194]

>>1546164
1. It's an HDTV .
2. It wasn't even the best Sony CRT HDTV being sold at the time.

[Anonymous No.1546202]

>use component on PVM
>setup internal sync
>screen shakes
I can't tell if its always shaking but when I bring up the OSD it is very noticeable. Why is this happening? And how would I use external sync?

[Anonymous No.1546217]

What are the rules when placing speakers near crts? Is placing a speaker close behind and to the side of the tv like this likely to affect it?

[Anonymous No.1546223]

>>1545249
The cardboard that box came in is about half an inch thick and there is a foam insert that they made just to cushion the PVM inside. It's pretty damn sturdy and they did an awesome job packing it.

>>1546037
>>1546049
I know for certain that these FD Trinitron WEGA models are standard definition:

KV-27FS100
KV-27FS200
KV-32FS100
KV-32FS200
KV-36FS100
KV-36FS200

>>1546217
I'm aware that speakers can affect the picture of CRT's, but I have shielded PVM's which don't seem to be affected at all by my speakers being placed right next to it. If your CRT isn't shielded, you might want to place your speakers a little distance away from your CRT.

[Anonymous No.1546245]

>>1546140
What about computer monitors that scan 15kHz and higher?

[Anonymous No.1546330]

Fd Trinitron wega = flat screen aperture grille

So pretty much all of them with a flat glass screen.

There's a wiki page, just Google FD Trinitron wega.

[Anonymous No.1546337]

is there any tv model that is a literal box?

i dont like the curvey look on any newer tv or tv's built from the last decade

[Anonymous No.1546356]

Rule of thumb for the Sony tv's

The 4:3 tubes are 27, 32, and 36".
The 16:9 tubes are 30 and 34.

They come in 3 different resolutions, SD, fine pitch, and superfine pitch. All the wide screens will be some kind of HD, while the 4:3 tubes can be any.

HS = high scan, tube is fine pitch.
Xbr/xs = top end models, can be superfine pitch but not necessarily.

[Anonymous No.1546391]

>>1546356
Forgot to add:

1440x1080 superfine
853x1080 fine

[Anonymous No.1546395]

>>1546356
>>1546391
fine summary, but why didn't you just link to wp?

[Anonymous No.1546458]

>>1546395
But then I couldn't listen to myself talking?

I dunno, I just remember being confused by the wiki because it listed a shit ton of models. It took a minute to realize there are only about half a dozen actual different models.

[Anonymous No.1546995]

Is it possible to mod an old 50hz only PAL tv to run in PAL 60?

[Anonymous No.1547078]

>>1546995

It will be pretty hard and expensive. It will be easier to mod it so it could accept RGB instead (if it doesn't accept it already).

[Anonymous No.1547184]

>>1547078
It's the vertically squished picture that bothers me more than the refresh rate to be honest. Is there any way to adjust that?

[Anonymous No.1547202]

>>1547184
Your only options are...

1: Use a SCART port on the TV if it has one. It can handle 60hz. Pic related..
2: Buy a new TV. The Y-axis can't be changed unless your TV has some manual resolution setting. I doubt this even exists on consumer sets.

[Anonymous No.1547314]

>>1547202
>Buy a new TV
That's definitely an option, but I really like this tv design-wise and would like to get it working.

And just to be clear, when I say vertically squished picture I'm talking about this kind of thing and not the black and white + squished picture that results from sending a 60hz signal to a 50hz only tv. If it had the correct aspect ratio I could put up with the 50hz.

[Anonymous No.1547316]

>>1546016
You can just use a DVD video, like Digital Video Essentials, or a calibration menu on a THX DVD

[Anonymous No.1547340]

>>1546202

I believe you should use external sync. If you're using YPbPr you should be getting sync on luma (Y).

[Anonymous No.1547348]

>>1546337
Yes, professional video monitors like Sony PVMs, and equivalents from other manufacturers. They are usually designed to be stackable and or rack-mountable.

[Anonymous No.1547397]

>>1546995
What is the problem?

If the picture is totally scrambled and you have no V-Hold control then there might be a v-hold control internally somewhere - but this will have to be changed every time going between 50 and 60 Hz. And it might not work either.

If the picture is stable and in black & white, then you need to use the RGB SCART input. If there's no RGB input then you're shit out of luck unless you're good with hacking electronics (and even then it may not be possible depending on the hardware). If you're in Europe then it should not be hard finding a half-decent CRT TV with SCART sockets for little money, or free.

>>1546356
>>1546223
For Euroweenies, none of this is relevant. I don't think there were any XBR's here, nor SFP or hi-scan stuff. I don't recall seeing any Sony HD CRTs but maybe it depends on the country.

PAL Wegas are most likely to be widescreen SD.

[Anonymous No.1547417]

well? Had this tv for 8 yrs now, my uncle ave this to me out of the box new that he never used and kept it in his attic since 97 when he got it. TV is still mint right now. The screen looks blue because of the light reflection and the camera flash.

[Anonymous No.1547464]

>>1547397
>What is the problem?
The picture is b&w and stable. The signal is coming from a laptop via the s-video out through an s-video to composite adapter into the tv, which is 50hz and composite only.

At first I couldn't get the laptop to output 50hz and assumed it was the 60hz causing the loss of colour, but I've got it outputting 720x576 at 50hz now and it's still in black and white. I think it might be because it's progressive instead of interlaced but I'm not sure.

[Anonymous No.1547476]

>>1547464
you would have blatantly obvious sync problems if it were a progressive/interlaced issue

[Anonymous No.1547479]

>>1547464
It's black and white either because it's outputting NTSC, PAL-M or your s-video to composite adaptor is not doing what you think it should and is giving the TV a luma signal but no chroma

[Anonymous No.1547538]

>>1547476
Oh, okay.

>>1547479
It's 50hz so would that rule out NTSC? And I don't live in Brazil, which according to wikipedia is the only place that uses PAL-M.

The s-video out is a 7 pin and the adapter is a 4 pin that I've used on other laptops with 7 pin sockets and not had this problem. According to wikipedia "In some implementations, the remaining pin needs to be grounded to enable the composite output or disable the S-Video output." which I find a bit confusing because there are three remaining pins, not one. That sounds like it might be the problem though.

[Anonymous No.1547556]

>>1547538
I'm not familiar with such elderly Intel GPUs, but generally you need to configure the colour encoding with some software provided by the GPU vendor - this is certainly the case with Nvidia and ATI/AMD graphics.

It could still potentially output NTSC colour at 50 Hz, just like it could output PAL at 60 Hz.

[Anonymous No.1547562]

>>1547556
>i9xx
>elderly
man I feel old

[Anonymous No.1547574]

>>1547562

>>1547556 here
I only moved from 975X last year, but that shit is from nearly 9 years ago - it is ancient in PC terms

[Anonymous No.1547583]

>>1547574
I only posted that as someone who messed around with i740 when it was fairly new and consider that a fairly recent memory in analog terms.

I am not actually 9 years behind the times technologically speaking.

[Anonymous No.1547591]

>>1547562
Dude get rid of your t60 gramps.

[Anonymous No.1547605]

ban OP image

[Anonymous No.1547618]

>>1547605
why?

[Anonymous No.1547623]

>>1547618
Probably because it gives women and children the idea that Sony is the alpha and omega of CRT technology.

[Anonymous No.1547759]

>>1547605
>>1547623
lel

[Anonymous No.1547859]

Is this my genesis (HD model 1, no license screen) or my tv? Its not there 99% of the time.

[Anonymous No.1547890]

>>1547859
That could be an extreme case of HDG model 1 rainbow bars.

Probably have to recap the console; consult >>1468896 if necessary.

[Anonymous No.1547914]

>>1547890
duhhhhhhhh

Me again. Step one, isolate the console. Disconnect and look for the bars.

Again, I'm sorry for being this retarded before telling you to recap your console. OTOH, I kinda assumed you would have tried that already.

Good luck in the fixit thread if it is your Genesis. Otherwise somebody there or here might be able to help if it really is your display after all.

[Anonymous No.1547948]

>>1547623
But isn't that true?

[Anonymous No.1547961]

>>1547948
Mitsubishi, NEC, and JVC are also all very good.

Also check out arcade machine monitor manufacturers.

[Anonymous No.1547981]

>>1547961
Toshiba and Panasonic over NEC and JVC for TVs, and even Mitsubishi depending on the time frame and product line

For me, Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, and Mitsubishi were tops for TVs. Sony, Mitsubishi, NEC, and their rebranders were tops for PC monitors. My experience with broadcast monitors is more limited but Sony, Ikegami, and NEC clearly had some of the most popular models that were also rebranded. The one constant is Sony.

So yeah, I'd place Sony at the top, but it's not a runaway victory. Great track record, but I'd happily obtain and use displays from other manufacturers, and I do. Aperture grile technology really was an amazing innovation that gave Sony an edge for decades, but there is so much more to a good display than the tube.

[Anonymous No.1547982]

>>1547914
>>1547890
I should probably point out that this is from one of the tests in 240p suite, and I've never seen it anywhere near this bad in a game.

[Anonymous No.1547993]

>>1547982
Pic related

[Anonymous No.1548047]

literally impossible to find a trinitron in my country for under $200

[Anonymous No.1548054]

>>1548047
I have like 3 Trinitrons and a pvm that I want to get rid of, a 24/36/18/19 and a substandard pc monitor (Trinitron).

Too bad you don't live in America, where they're in abundance.

[Anonymous No.1548059]

>>1548047
Where'r u from?

[Anonymous No.1548064]

>>1548059

australia

[Anonymous No.1548080]

>tfw when not even a trinitron can make n64 games look decent.

[Anonymous No.1548092]

>>1538996
i've read that the japanese actually calibrated their displays for 9300k, which is on the blueish side. so if you play mostly japanese games it might more fitting to use a cool temperature setting

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1548103]

>>1548080
I dunno, they look alright to me, and I've only seen them via s-video. I'd imagine RGB modded, they'd look pretty good.

>>1548092
That's what I have both my PVM and Dell PC monitor set to. 6500k just looks too yellow for my liking.

[Anonymous No.1548232]

>>1548092
I prefer sticking to 6500K under all lighting situations and adjusting the image through other means as needed. All my Sony TV presets are set to warm but differ in contrast and brightness, for example. Every other color temp setting is far too harsh, even after attempting to view them in isolation after a long period of not using the warm setting. I also turn off red push.

This result is an ideal balance to me with natural flesh tones in film (no oompa loompas or Roswell grays) and beautiful game images too.

[Anonymous No.1548234]

>>1548080
Thats because n64 carts couldn't hold big nice resolution textures and the hardware further smoothed everything so the result was over stretched blurry textures. I think thats what you were referring to,

[Anonymous No.1548248]

>>1546194

What would you say is the best one, then?

[Anonymous No.1548258]

>>1548248
For /vr/ you shouldn't be considering any of them. Get an SDTV for retro.

[Anonymous No.1548287]

>>1548258

I getcha, but my understanding of that particular model was that it combines the best particular aspects of SDTVs and HDTVs. Is there any such thing in existence?

[Anonymous No.1548302]

I am seeing a few 20" medical PVMs on craigslist. The problem is that they want $200 each for the things. What's the max I should spend on one? I'm not planning to go over $100.

[Anonymous No.1548306]

>>1548287
Not among TVs that I know about. You'll probably have to settle for something considerably smaller like a PVM for multisync between 240p and HD compatibility. I've never used one of these or seen an adequately informative mode walkthrough of one, though.

[Anonymous No.1548314]

>>1548287
Sony HD CRTs upscale and cause about a frame and a half of lag on 480i material. I have done some high-speed photography to prove it.

[Anonymous No.1548317]

>>1548302
$75-80 price range is ideal. See if you can get them to lower the price.

[Anonymous No.1548329]

Got this for free at a garage sale Saturday. Screen is a bit scratched in the center (I didn't even notice it until I got home) but all things considered it's definitely an upgrade from my previous one.

[Anonymous No.1548335]

>>1548317
Wait, I screwed up. $50-65 is the ideal range.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1548343]

>>1548335
I'd say that really all depends on the model and condition

I could see paying $80 for a 20L5 or something similar; Or at least I'd be willing to.

[Anonymous No.1548348]

Does your Insignia make a really high pitched whine? I've got a 12-inch model that makes an awful racket that none of my other CRTs do.

[Anonymous No.1548356]

>>1548348
Nope, sounds normal.

[Anonymous No.1548368]

>>1548302
Depends on usage I guess.If you can find a new or near new one it might be worth it I guess. Also, where you live can be a factor. If they are in abundance, obviously just wait it out for a cheap one. If they seem to be rarer in your area, take into consideration that if you pass them up and are impatient you might have to pay for shipping and the potential headaches that could cause.

[Anonymous No.1548917]

>>1548302
I bought two 14 inch PVMs both for around $30-$40.
Shipping is another story.
But goddamn I want a 20" even though I don't have room for one. These guys on ebay are asking far too much money and they either have ridiculous shipping or local pickup only.

[Anonymous No.1548929]

>>1547340
How can you do this with PS2 component cables?

[Anonymous No.1548945]

>>1548929
You'll need third party ones that also output composite so you can use that as the sync. First party component cables only have YPbPr

[Anonymous No.1548997]

>>1540479
That is not a PVM, that is in fact a pic I took of a Dell PC CRT that I posted in Emulation General. I was using RetroArch with a display mode of 3840x480 @60hz and these two shaders:

https://code.google.com/p/interpolation-shaders/downloads/detail?name=TVoutTweaks.cg
and
https://github.com/libretro/common-shaders/blob/master/misc/interlacing.cg

[Anonymous No.1549001]

How do I get better audio quality on a shitty TV? My RCA cables are shit.

[Anonymous No.1549098]

>>1540479
>>1548997
well, at least you tried

[Anonymous No.1549247]

>>1549001
Omg is he OK?

[Anonymous No.1549309]

>>1549247

Does he look okay to you?

[Anonymous No.1549326]

>>1549001
Hey, man. Nice shot.

[Anonymous No.1549328]

>>1549247
you haven't seen the budd Dwyer video lel

[Anonymous No.1549354]

>>1549309
The joke

Your head

[Anonymous No.1549360]

>>1548929

This guy must be high or something: >>1548945

The components of your component video is Y (luma), Pb (blue colour difference), and Pr (red difference). Your monitor should get external sync signal from the Y input (green RCA connector) - there shouldn't be anything else you should need to do.

[Anonymous No.1549636]

>>1541831 here
Got my second PVM and had some time to test it out.
What we see in the image is just the shutter speed of the camera as the entire image is present on the PVM.
The only issue is that looks like the previous owner had a magnet to it or something. The top left corner was green. I was able to fix it a bit by playing with a magnet on it but that messes up other areas. Degauss doesn't fix it. Do I need one of the degauss coils? I swear I saw a video years ago of a guy who had magnets on a power drill and he degaussed it. Any home methods of fixing this? Or do I need a degauss coil?

[Anonymous No.1551182]

>>1549636
A degauss coil is pretty nice to have if you're into CRTs but you could try that magnet drill trick, that sounds interesting

[Anonymous No.1551275]

>>1551182
Tried a magnet I found laying around and a drill. Didn't really fix it. I can use the magnet to get rid of the discoloration but it'll most likely appear in another spot because magnets. Next thing before getting a degauss coil is using the back of a power drill.

Is there a situation where you can't demagnetize a CRT? I've been able to clean most of it up but not completely cause I end up magnetizing other areas while doing it.

[Anonymous No.1551356]

>>1548997
I've discovered you can make it really bright by setting all color channels to 100. It's much brighter than using 6500K color temperature, which compensates the 50% brightness loss because of the blacked out lines.

[Anonymous No.1552302]

>>1531220
Okay, there's a 53" Sony rear projection tv for 125$.
Should I pick it up?

[Anonymous No.1552417]

Its not possible to permanently discolor a monitor with magnets is it?

[Anonymous No.1552431]

>>1552302
No, not for that price at least. You could buy a PVM+shipping on ebay for that much.

[Anonymous No.1552475]

>>1552417
maybe if the magnet is strong enough

i think you can just turn it off/on until its back to normal tho

[Anonymous No.1552486]

>>1552475
that's not always enough, you might have to use a pro degaussing coil

[Anonymous No.1552632]

Just picked up a KV-34XBR910.

Best fucking picture quality from a CRT that I've ever seen. Hauling it in a compact car was a little tricky but worth it.

Kinda looked like the little Toyota yaris was giving birth coming out.

[Anonymous No.1552767]

Interesting development. I gave up on the drill and sort of painting the discoloration away using a magnet. Surprisingly worked a bit. Then I decided to hit degauss and it all came back. Maybe something on the inside is fucked. Its a damn shame cause when I got the discoloration out briefly it looked better than my first PVM so I want to be able to use it.

[Anonymous No.1552773]

>>1552632
Best picture tube for movies. Kind of laggy for 480i games though.

[Anonymous No.1552776]

>>1552767
Also getting a degaussing coil will be my last attempt as the only ones I found are pretty pricey.

[Anonymous No.1552797]

>>1552776
see if there's an electronics repair shop around you.

[Anonymous No.1552848]

Finally found a nice Sony to replace my mediocre Sanyo. Bought a KV-27FS12 from a nice gay couple on craigslist, and I'm loving it so far. My shitty phone camera doesn't do it justice, but 240p looks fanstic. 480i has some weird warping near the edges, but it doesn't bother me much. I didn't really want one this big, but I couldn't pass up separate inputs for Composite, S-Video, and Component.

[Anonymous No.1552851]

>>1552848

[Anonymous No.1552852]

>>1552851

[Anonymous No.1552857]

>>1552848
How do you know they were a gay couple?

Maybe they were just best friends that like to hold hands.

[Anonymous No.1552860]

Which is better for emulation on PC, 31+khz CRT monitors or Sony PVM?

[Anonymous No.1552861]

>>1552860

PVM, but it's more of a hassle to set up.

[Anonymous No.1552870]

>>1552860
CRT monitors are easier to connect and if set up correctly, can look as good or even better than a PVM.

[Anonymous No.1552904]

>>1552860
its easier to set up an older high-end monitor than a PVM. But the PVM will still be better in the long run.

[Anonymous No.1552928]

Fuck toshiba tv's.

Before orion, after orion, every model I've found has had bad geometry and color. Maybe they don't age well?

[Anonymous No.1553261]

So I want to make a portable CRT. I've got a small and lightweight one that I'm going to work with already but I'm wondering about how I can get it to store energy for use when it's not plugged in.

I could easily put in an inverter and a deep-cell battery, and I'm preeeeetty sure I have the space inside the shell for it but I'm not sure if this is exactly what I want.
What I want from the TV would be being able to play it without it plugged in for at least 3 hours if possible (including console) and be able to charge while in use by being plugged into a wall socket. Is this possible?

If you want/need more info on this I'm happy to go into detail/show pics currently I don't have any but I can take some.

[Anonymous No.1553294]

>>1552928
lel, I've been very happy with my pre-Orion HDTVs for over a decade now. I am typing this using one of them as an HTPC display. I still have one Orion-built HDTV as a kitchen/breakfast nook TV as well, and that doesn't have bad geometry (just the red push).

Service menu is a must on the older ones, with all the standard caveats (record all defaults, make small changes, revert to defaults before selling/donating). Are you doing this?

[Anonymous No.1553298]

>>1553261
That's going to be pretty heavy with the battery/batteries you'd need for that. I'm just thinking of the smallest CRTs I'd want to use combined with a UPS, and that isn't something I'd consider too portable.

Still, I'd like to see pics if possible. Sounds interesting if you're willing to deal with the weight.

[Anonymous No.1553314]

>>1552928
I despise the newer model Toshiba flat CRTs. The geometry was alright but the picture was shit. they had this edge detection shit you couldn't turn off even in the service menu. it made every thing look horrid.

[Anonymous No.1553325]

>>1553314
If you're talking about SVM, you can turn that off in every flat SD and HD Toshiba I've owned (2x 2002 HD, 1x 2004 SD, 2x 2005/Orion HD).

If that's not what you're talking about, which setting is it really? Also did you actually cal the displays?

[Anonymous No.1553365]

>>1553294
Happy with it? Well, sure, if you bought one back in the day, got lucky with no serious issues, and it saved some money.

Now a days, though? Fuck. Just went HD CRT hunting since I never had one. Picked up a toshiba 30" set and a 34" super fine pitch sony. I don't know if this would've been a fair comparison when these sets came out, but I got both of them for next to nothing today.

And there was just no comparison. The toshiba was absolutely worse in every category except weight.

Being the first toshiba HD tube I've had, there probably are better models than the one I happened to get. But if I was looking for another hd tube, I wouldn't even bother with toshiba. It's easier just to pick up (Well, not literally, the fucking things are heavy) another sony.

[Anonymous No.1553385]

>>1553325
Same here.

The orion one I'm currently getting rid of had the option to turn it off. It also did this funny shit where every time you entered the service menu it would change the picture setting over to sports or vivid or some shit and turn it back on though.

It made tuning the picture more enjoyable. I'd occasionally forget that it did that, and wonder why the picture suddenly went to shit after my last changes in the service menu. Go back in and monkey with shit. Until I realized it just reset the picture setting default, and I had just fucked up the good changes that I made.

[Anonymous No.1553457]

>>1553365
>toshiba 30" set
What was the full model #? If it was an HF85, it would really behoove you not to dismiss other HD Toshibas based on its demerits.

>I don't know if this would've been a fair comparison when these sets came out
Not even close, SFP Sonys were prohibitively more expensive. "Walk-past-them-in-the-store-if-the-price-was-visible" more expensive. "May-as-well-buy-the-next-size-up-Toshiba" more expensive. A more fair comparo would be an HS420, and even those cost much more than comparable TVs. Of course, as you know, these TVs are all now a single-digit fraction of their original prices except for a select few desirable models.

>there probably are better models than the one I happened to get
No question, but I can only say that because I've actually owned and used them. Sony is a safer bet for current buyers who haven't, since the resources and combined knowledge available on the net just aren't as abundant.

But really, for a few years after Panasonic gave up in the U.S. you wanted a Sony, a pre-Orion Toshiba, or a JVC. Or a Sharp if you had a Walmart gift card, lel

>>1553385
I didn't own my 30" for long before I sold it (for a profit over what I paid new), but funny enough I never had to do much to my 34". It was like winning the lottery until the red push and slightly soft image led me to relegate it to kitchen duty.

[Anonymous No.1554027]

>>1553298
The TV is already pretty light-weight but with a deep-cell and an inverter (if that's what I use) it'll be fairly heavy. Weight isn't too much of a problem for me but I'd like it to be as light weight as possible.

I'll go into more detail about the TV and the whole project when I get home from work. Also someone should make a new thread, pretty sure this one has hit the bump limit.

[Anonymous No.1554591]

>>1553457
How do the hiscan's compare? I passed up a couple to get the sfp.

Kind of a shame but those hf85's must have sold well, there are a bunch of them available.

[Anonymous No.1554608]

>>1553261
I had a D cell powered TV as a kid. Blackand white, but had a good picture. Would watch it on long car rides. Maybe you could find one similar to that?

[Anonymous No.1554862]

Anyone have any good links that they could share for information on CRT repair? I'd like to learn about the ins and outs of CRT's and be able to repair them with new parts and/or old parts from other TV's.

[Anonymous No.1555039]

>>1554862
Elektrotanya has most service manuals.

You'll probably need more than just a website tutorial to do any serious electrical work though. Or find someone who does that can tell you what to do.

[Anonymous No.1555186]

What the fuck is this shit

http://vimeo.com/78694694

[Anonymous No.1555195]

>>1555186
I don't get it. Other than Alien, what did I just watch?

[Anonymous No.1555196]

$100 for this bvm.
Is it worth it?

[Anonymous No.1555198]

>>1555196
Almost definitely if you've got it to spend. Got pics of its buttholes?

[Anonymous No.1555202]

>>1555196
If it is in good condition an works fine the yeah.

I can't even get 14" PVM's for that where i live.

[Anonymous No.1555205]

>>1555039
I have a 5" color Realistic brand CRT that came with a snap on pedestal you can put ten D cell batteries in.

[Anonymous No.1555208]

>>1555198
I'd have to bother the ebay seller about it.
>>1555202
I'm not even sure how many hours that things has been on.

[Anonymous No.1555212]

>>1555208
>ebay
What's the shipping going to cost you or is it close enough to you to pick up? It's deofinitely worth bugging him to find out what cards, if any, it comes with since BVMs are modular.

[Anonymous No.1555226]

>>1555212
It's local pick up and it's about a 30-40 drive to there.

[Anonymous No.1555297]

Should I? I'm looking to get a CRT. I have never bought one and haven't played video games on a CRT in like 6 years. I don't know what CRTs are good.

[Anonymous No.1555341]

Also how about this?

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1555347]

>>1555297
If you've got three strong guys, and know exactly where you want it to be for the next several years, it'd be damn nice.

A model number would be nice.

[Anonymous No.1555356]

>>1555341
not for true retro

[Anonymous No.1555357]

>>1555297
Depending on the market in your area you should offer $20.

[Anonymous No.1555370]

>>1555356
why not?

>>1555347
would I really need 3 people to transport it? Im a small guy but strong for my size.

[KyaDash !kDashing02 No.1555372]

>>1555370
>why not?
Because it is a computer monitor.

>Im a small guy but strong for my size.
It's at the very least 220lbs, and the shape makes it extremely awkward to move.

[Anonymous No.1555380]

>>1555372
what if I told you I would be emulating my games?

[Anonymous No.1555382]

>>1555380
>>1555356

[Anonymous No.1555389]

>>1546167
sweet jesus at all the possibilities.

[Anonymous No.1555449]

>>1555370
Just be ready. The 36" tubes weigh around 200+ lbs.

I never found the shape awkward, but I can't imagine carrying one on stairs by myself. Maybe drag it to the stairs and use some cardboard for a sled. Either way, much easier and faster with a couple people.

[Anonymous No.1555454]

>>1555449
>but I can't imagine carrying one on stairs by myself.
I live in a loft apartment so I would have to carry it upstairs

that said Im not getting it anyways. maybe if I had a more disposable income and friends

[Anonymous No.1555460]

>>1555370
I think Kya is a pretty small dude, however I'm an extremely large dude that has no problem squatting/dead lifting 300+ lbs and I can only move a 34"+ CRT around in a room. I could definitely not move one up or down stairs by myself without dropping it because of the weight distribution and lack of good grips. Maybe if I had some ratcheting straps but don't believe for a second that you're going to be able to easily move a 36" CRT by yourself safely.

[Anonymous No.1555465]

>>1555460
I am only comfortable saying Im strong for my size (5'8, 130 pounds). One of the best at wrestling and lifting weights in my large city when I was in high school. that said my strong is nothing compared to what strong is for someone closer to 200 pounds.

[Anonymous No.1555473]

>>1555465
Yeah there's no way in hell you could move a 36" Trinitron - like, at all. You could probably scoot it and it would still bust your ass after about 10-15 feet

[Anonymous No.1555479]

>>1555449
>>1555454
I've done a 36" up three flights of soft carpeted stars by myself before. I used a cardboard+blanket technique. Shit SUCKS.

I've also been part of a three-man team hauling one up two flights before. That also sucked because those stairs were narrow.

[Anonymous No.1555491]

>>1553325
The one I had did not let you turn it off in anyway and there were people trying to figure it out. It ruined the set for me. I downgraded from a 27" Trinitron CRT since I wanted a smaller one for more space in the general area. Never again, I replaced it with a 20" PVM, thankfully.

[Anonymous No.1555508]

>>1555479
That's awesome. I managed to get a 200lbs xbr from my car to the house but it was only 10' to the door and another 10' to the room.

Fucking thing is still sitting on the floor until a buddy can help lift it to the TV stand.

>>1555454
I'd just get a free 27" Trinitron if I was you. Light enough to carry yourself and see them being given away all the time.

[Anonymous No.1555512]

>>1555508
its not like those grow on trees. I tried looking for free CRTs but there was nothing within my town

[Anonymous No.1555524]

>>1555198
Here's what the guy sent me.

[Anonymous No.1555535]

>>1555524
Looks like everything's where it should be. No VGA but you probably wouldnt have used that anyway.

[Anonymous No.1555537]

>>1554027
>bump limit
is ~40 posts away right now.

>>1554591
SFP >>> Hi-Scan. If you ever placed them side-by-side you'd notice the difference from normal viewing distance right away. Not worth several hundred more to me back in the day but I definitely wouldn't trade my SFPs now for Hi-Scan models. A 34XS955 is what kicked my 34HF85 out of the bedroom and into the kitchen, but I think even a 34HS420 would have done the same -- I just wouldn't have paid as much for it.

>>1554608
My parents had one of these too...reminds me now of those first-generation Compaq luggables: All machine, tiny screen. We stored it in the car trunk for a long time and used it +/- 0 times.

>>1555491
Eh, that's a shame. You could have probably just pulled the power to the SVM circuit if the TV was otherwise working well.

[Anonymous No.1555539]

>>1555535
It sucks that it can't do S-video.

[Anonymous No.1555545]

So, uh, my CRT might be finally finished off in terms of gaming. The yellow RCA cable's jack seems to have come off the motherboard or something, cause it's wiggling around and won't hold a connection. Is there a way I can fix this without opening the TV? If not, is there a way to fix it? If not, what do you all reccomend for playing my NES on an HDTV? Some sort of RF to RCA converter cable?

[Anonymous No.1555571]

>>1555539
What is the input on the bottom of the last card?

Looks like either S-video or DIN RGB.

[Anonymous No.1555586]

>>1555545
No. You're going to have to open it and re-solder the connections.

[Anonymous No.1555597]

>>1555545
I think you'd have to open it and re-solder the connector back on to the board if it's really wiggling around.

Don't play NES on an HDTV.

>Some sort of RF to RCA converter cable?
No such thing, you're talking about something with a tuner, like a VCR (or the HDTV's own tuner, assuming it can tune analog VHF channels or whatever was/is used in your country).

[Anonymous No.1555601]

>>1555597
It's not really feasible for me to buy another TV to play one system, man.

[Anonymous No.1555603]

>>1555601
Then fix your current one! It's really not hard, you just need to open the TV, and not touch anything but the broken connector and re-solder that bitch back together.

[Anonymous No.1555604]

>>1555603
I'll certainly try.

[Anonymous No.1555640]

>>1555512
Live in the wrong town
If you want a non trinny, goodwill sells them for a $1.

[Anonymous No.1556689]

>>1555571

It looks too big to be the Mini-DIN S-Video port. I think it might be a remote control port (a serial port or something like that).

[Anonymous No.1556758]

I never really been in these threads before. Is this an alright TV? Found it at a thrift store today after a long day of finding nothing.

Not so sure about $10 though

[Anonymous No.1556762]

>>1556758

Oh god that reflection. How did I not notice?

[Anonymous No.1556828]

How would I go about connecting my PC to a PVM or BVM?

[Anonymous No.1556839]

>>1556828
Attach it to the rear.

[Anonymous No.1556846]

>>1556839
With wires.

Copper.

[Anonymous No.1556857]

Hey /vr/, I need your help with this. My tv is pic related, a Brionvega Dhoney. I don't know how I got it (i've had it for years, my dad probably won it or something), all I know is it's been in my home, and I have been using it as the tv in my bedroom. It has an s-video port, a scart port, and an antenna. The antenna connection is unlike anything i've seen; can someone do research to find out what type of adapter I need to convert it to regular old coax? It is possible, I just need the adapter, which i'm sure some chinese factory makes. As for scart, can this thing do progressive scan? I have the composite-scart converter it came with, but it's garbage, it gets a good video signal, but no audio signal. Since analog video ended, i've only been using it as an s-video monitor, and it does look fantastic.

[Anonymous No.1556860]

>>1556857
picture didn't upload

[Anonymous No.1556924]

>>1556839
>>1556846
I've read something about 15 kHz?

[Anonymous No.1556939]

>>1556758
Well it's a Trinitron with composite video and mono RCA audio inputs, so it's a step up from a TV with only RF input. It's also just about small enough that the tiny details you'd see with better inputs wouldn't matter too much, and it looks like it fits your space nicely.

Personally, I'd be able to have a lot of fun with this TV, especially if the only alternative was an HDTV. $10 for anything isn't too bad, so enjoy it!

[Anonymous No.1556967]

>>1556857
>The antenna connection is unlike anything i've seen; can someone do research to find out what type of adapter I need to convert it to regular old coax?
Without seeing it, I'd guess that it's a Brit-style "aerial" port. You see, Brits use aerials, not antennas, because they're just pricks like that.

>As for scart, can this thing do progressive scan?
Probably not.

>I have the composite-scart converter it came with, but it's garbage, it gets a good video signal, but no audio signal
Are you sure there's not a "IN/OUT" switch on it? SCART provides for a complete "loop" where the TV can send A/V down to devices and the devices can send back up to the TV. (I think that's the terminology, at least.)

[Anonymous No.1556968]

>>1556857
I own a Brionvega Doney, best television ever, kicks ass.

I use Scart, just get a scart lead. For S-Video you need separate audio right? If you need a new converter cable just buy one.

[Anonymous No.1556973]

>>1556967
I got audio to work once, i had to tape down the in/out switch to like half-way, and I got both audio and video; otherwise i just get video. It is a very very cheap adapter, I am probably better off buying a nice non-chinese golden one.

>>1556968
my nigga

I will take a pic of the back. While I am not advertising instagram, I do have some pics of me playing games on it.
instagram.com/mrnick1994

[Anonymous No.1556975]

So, call me lazy or ill-informed, but I just caught wind of these /crt/ threads. Is there an absolute best CRT for use with retro consoles? I found this on e-bay and was just curious if it was worth it.

www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Wega-Wide-Screen-16-9-1080i-HD-30-Flat-Screen-CRT-TV-KV-30HS420-/171304721083

[Anonymous No.1556980]

>>1556857
>The antenna connection is unlike anything i've seen; can someone do research to find out what type of adapter I need to convert it to regular old coax?
Some polite advice before I take a guess for you: You should do your own research, especially if you can't provide a picture of the antenna connection you're having trouble with. It should be as easy as looking up different antenna connections.

Now, my wild guesses are that it is either a European aerial connector or a twin lead 300 Ohm connection. Only you can check this.

[Anonymous No.1556985]

>>1556975
Don't buy an HDTV for retro consoles. The 1080i Wegas will upscale 480i signals. The upscaler is a very good one - it line-doubles exactly to 960i and I've never seen any artifacts - but it's still not a native display. Real 480i/480p/1080i multisync TVs are rare.

[Anonymous No.1556986]

>>1556980
Disregard, beaten to the punch while tendin' to muh pork chops.

[Anonymous No.1556989]

>>1556980
I'm sorry, I have never been able to figure out what this 75Ω is supposed to mean

[Anonymous No.1556990]

>>1556985
>Real 480i/480p/1080i multisync TVs are rare.
if they even exist

[Anonymous No.1556992]

>>1556989
>SCART input
>115Vac
WHAT WIZARDRY IS THIS

[Anonymous No.1556993]

>>1556989
https://www.google.com/search?q=european+tv+antenna+connector

[Anonymous No.1556994]

>>1556992
beats me, i've never tried a PAL device on it, all my stuff is ntsc.

[Anonymous No.1556995]

>>1556975

>Is there an absolute best CRT for use with retro consoles?

No one TV is considered to be the best, but the general consensus tier list goes something like this:

Sony BVM
Sony PVM
Other PVMs (Panasonic, Mitsubishi)
Sony Trinitron consumer TV's from the late 90's and early 2000's.

From there, opinions vary. You're never going to find a BVM, and you probably won't find a PVM in the wild. Go for the Trinitron route.

As a global rule, never buy an HDTV for retro, CRT or otherwise. If the TV supports anything higher than 480i, avoid it. Doubly so if it's 16:9.

[Anonymous No.1556996]

>>1556993
so what do I look for that will be male Aerial 75-ohm to female coaxial?

[Anonymous No.1557001]

Don't know where else to ask this:

Where do you think is the best place to find a Laserdisc player? Are they even worth it?

[Anonymous No.1557002]

>>1556995
>If the TV supports anything higher than 480i, avoid it. Doubly so if it's 16:9.
PAL territories had lots of SDTV 16:9 sets, because they had a broadcast standard for it.

Also, there are lots of multiscan EDTV sets. NEC, I believe, made a bunch of 480i/480p multiscan televisions. They're quite rare outside of Japan though.

[Anonymous No.1557010]

>>1557001
They show up all the time on eBay. I got mine for $5 plus $25 shipping. It's pretty cool but there's nothing really worthwhile on LD that hasn't already been released on DVD/BD, aside from Star Wars and the Daicon Film disc.

[Anonymous No.1557008]

>>1557002

Yes, my advice was for US residents, I should have specified.

Of course there are exceptions, but as a general rule, one should avoid ED or HDTV's.

[Anonymous No.1557013]

>>1557010

>there's nothing really worthwhile on LD that hasn't already been released on DVD/BD

I know, but something about LD is just cool to me. Call me a hipster.

[Anonymous No.1557016]

>>1557002

It seems like europe gets completely FUCKED at every which angle when it comes to video games.

[Anonymous No.1557029]

>>1556996
I'm making it as easy as possible for you without spoon-feeding you the answer! Come on anon!

[Anonymous No.1557030]

>>1557029
>without spoon-feeding you the answer
>>>/a/

[Anonymous No.1557032]

>>1557008
>>1556995
>If the TV supports anything higher than 480i, avoid it.
There are multiscan PVM/BVM models so that's also not "global."

[Anonymous No.1557034]

>>1557029
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103468
is it this thing?

[Anonymous No.1557039]

>>1557034
lel, I give up.

Y-yeah, I think so anon.

[Anonymous No.1557047]

>>1557039
i'm pretty stupid when it comes to this. I can load and shoot a 16mm film camera from 1973, but I don't know anything about a retro european crt television lol.

[Anonymous No.1557051]

>>1556973

All European connections, not a problem for me because I'm in the UK, also my Brionvega is grey.

Fun fact, I found an orange Brionvega television in Portal (or was it 2?) towards the end of the game sitting in one of the office areas. Not the Doney though, it was the Algol.

[Anonymous No.1557089]

>>1557047
hehe, no worries. Just thought I'd kickstart some close inspection!

[Anonymous No.1557134]

>>1557127
>>1557127
>>1557127

NEW THREAD

>>1557127
>>1557127
>>1557127

[Anonymous No.1557895]

>>1556995

You forgot the Ikegami BVMs some anon posted a few thread ago.

[Anonymous No.1557896]

>>1557010

...and many OVA from the 80s and 90s.

[Anonymous No.1557905]

>>1557016

>It seems like europe gets completely FUCKED at every which angle when it comes to console gaming.

I fixed it for you. Also, we were lucky enough in France to have a lovely company called Sodipeng, that had the permission from NEC to import officially the japanese PC-Engine, modify it in order to make it output RGB (French PC-Engines didn't have the Mini-Din A/V port, but a fully working Din-RGB port), and import all the cool games directly from Japan.
The company that mostly hated Europe was Nintendo who treated us like shit, that's why the Master System was more popular in Europe than the NES.

[Anonymous No.1558703]

I'm getting a PVM 2130 for 20€ (~$12). It's not in great external shape (might need a capkit IDK). Is it worth it?

I'm gonna use it with my MVS ans SNES RGB