[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / ic / jp / lit / sci / vr / vt ] [ index / top / reports ] [ become a patron ] [ status ]
2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/vr/ - Retro Games


View post   

File: 64 KB, 300x276, 300px-Gtw_mario.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1468896 No.1468896 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

The last one was deleted for whatever reason, but who cares about that?

Repairs, mod guides, etc., you need it, we should know how to do it.

>> No.1468921

Quick question about NES 72-pin connector replacements. My original barely works; I need to remove it almost every other day to re-bend the pins. I don't want to replace it with a shitty Chinese one.

Do you feel buying an American-manufactured gold replacement is my best bet? I'm worried about damaging my cartridges over time, which is why I put up with constantly cleaning and resetting my original.

I may just wait until stoneagegamer.com has them back in stock, though.

>> No.1468923 [DELETED] 

Anyone know how difficult it is to replace the shell for a GBA SP?

>> No.1468997

>>1468923
I haven't been able to get a new tri-wing to pull any of mine apart, but if they're like any other Nintendo handheld, it's not hard to do at all.

>> No.1469047

I know it's not retro, but is there any way to fix a Gamecube laser other that replacing it? I have two Gamecubes that won't read discs and I want to use them as something other than a doorstop or paperweight..

>> No.1469053

>>1468997
Where can you get a tri-wing bit? I'd like to replace my OG Gameboy screen since the LCD leaked.

>> No.1469078

>>1469053
Amazon, Ebay, etc. Most online stores like that should have them. Can't get them officially, so look out for low quality ones.

>> No.1469092

>>1469047
Gonna have to go with replacements my man.

>> No.1470963
File: 1.53 MB, 737x1686, Rush Ovary Buvvon.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1470963

I just picked up an NES for like 20 bucks, and don't know much about maintenance .
What the fuck is even happening.

>> No.1471064

>>1470963
Dirty contacts, especially on the left half when you look at the front of the cartridge.

>> No.1471606
File: 178 KB, 666x666, 1392362764486.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1471606

I got some questions about a VA3 HD Sega Genesis.

I'm getting some garbled graphics and the games are rarely playing.

I replaced the 7805s. That didn't help.

I re-flowed the solder on each though hole IC chip and that didn't seem to help.

I re-flowed and touched up the three surface mounted ICs and that didn't seem to help either.

Where else should I poke around?

Would a cap or caps blowing do this?

>> No.1471612

I inherited my older brother's Dreamcast. Problem is, it doesn't read discs. It goes to the Dreamcast menu, then when I select game, it says "Please insert a disc," even when a disc is in the console. The disc does not spin in the system, either.

I cleaned the lens with isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip, but it didn't solve the problem. The only other idea I have is to replace the laser unit entirely, which costs a decent chunk of money and requires knowledge I currently don't possess. I have a hard time believing that the laser totally burned out, because he didn't use the system that often.

Tangentially, does anyone know what specific kind of screw drives the four screws on the bottom of the case are? I had a surprisingly difficult time trying to get them out with 00 and 01 Philips screwdrivers.

>> No.1471618

>>1471612
It should just be just regular screws on the bottom

Also, you might be able to adjust the power of the laser

>> No.1471650

>>1471612
If they are just regular screws, maybe they are just stuck. Did you try getting more leverage? I know with old stuff I often have to stick the small screwdriver in the screw and turn it with some pliers.

>> No.1471658

>>1471650
(needle-nose pliers)

>> No.1471663

>>1471612
oh, there's probably dust in the switch that detects when the lid is closed. I had a "broken" DC that had that same problem that I got in a bundle with a black SS DC.

>> No.1471678

>>1468923
it's pretty easy, just be careful with the rubber caps on the screen half, and don't take the screen half off the bottom half unless you absolutely have to

>> No.1471689
File: 120 KB, 800x600, laser_power_adjustment.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1471689

>>1469047
you can try what i did, get the gamecube apart, and somewhere on one of the circuit boards there's a tiny flathead screw. that screw actually controls the strength of the laser, and turning it up actually fixes it. pic related is what i'm talking about. i did this some time last year and my gamecube still works perfectly to this day. you can read more about it here http://www.squeept.com/nintendo/adjust-the-gamecube-laser-power/

>> No.1471929

>>1468921

Wait if you need to. Don't use the shitty Chinese ones. They don't last and will grind down your cartridge edge connectors.

>> No.1472485

So, my only CRT just crapped out on me. Poor thing.

My only other television is an Emerson flat-screen digital TV. My Sega Genesis works with it...buuuut the screen tends to flicker. Not with every game. Some games are worse than others.

With Sonic the Hedgehog 2, for example, it only really does it at the title screen and between-level intermissions. The game itself looks fine.

But then, with games like Aladdin, the screen almost never stops doing it.

It's playable, of course, but it's obnoxious and can be a strain on the eyes.

So, my question is...will an RCA-to-HDMI converter patch this problem up?

>> No.1472490

Let's see if you can help me out on this, /vr/...

I got a DexDrive (Maybe you know it as Dexplorer) so long ago, I used it to transfer my PSX saves from memory cards to my PC and viceversa.

Now, I'd like to have something like that working again. I still have my DexDrive, and I found that Dexter thing, but the fact that my current computer doesn't have a serial port (and that I lost the AC unit) is killing me. I have a couple of PS3 memory card adaptors, the official Sony kind. You can use those to connect PSX and PS2 memory cards to the PS3 and back them up. Still, it's a pretty tedious process, because you have to copy every single save, one by one.

So... is there any way to plug the PS3 MCA to my PC and use it with something like Dexter? Is there any way to build a memory card reader out from busted psx-ps2 pieces?

Thank you very much!

>> No.1472596

>>1471606
Get like a flashlight and an x-acto knife and check the pin connector and remove any dusty or dirt that you can see. You can also lift the pins gently so they fit more snugly.

>> No.1473356

>>1472596
You mean on the surface mounded ICs, right?

Some of the pins looked a bit dirty but I tinned over them.

I need to get some desoldering braid and clean up the excess solder.

I am leaning toward one of the chips just being damaged. There was a lot of rust on the RF shield so I'm thinking it had a lot of water damage.

Ah well, I got it in a huge bundle for $60

I got my Sega CD model 2 working out of that bundle so I got my money back

>> No.1474082

>>1473356
No check the cartridge slot, there might be stuff jammed down in there that you can't see unless you have a flashlight or something

>> No.1474106

>>1474082
It did have some corrosion on the pins but I managed to clean those

>> No.1475259

>>1468896
>not holding a triwing

>> No.1475275

>>1471606

I'm guessing you've gone over the whole thing with rubbing alcohol/Q-tips and a vaccuum cleaner already?

>> No.1475276
File: 57 KB, 181x168, nes controller plugin.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1475276

How do I open this?

>> No.1475553

I got a neo geo mvs and it works fine, but the picture has some issues. The image quality is nice but it doesn't fill the entire screen and has a small amount of like warping at the top. the only cartridge I have for it is a bootleg 161 in 1 that wouldnt have anything to do with it would it? Is there an easy way to fix this?

>> No.1475794

>>1475553
What are you playing it on? In an arcade cab you would just adjust the screen height and width, and the warping at the top could likely be related to the Horizontal Hold, something that is also adjustable. There is probably nothing wrong with the mobo, just your display needs some tweaking.

>> No.1475809

>>1475794
yeah its an arcade cab and my first, I dont know much about them. Not really sure how to adjust screen height, width, or hold or anything like that.

>> No.1475812

Is anybody here familiar with CD-i repair?

I have a model 220 Philips CD-i that is currently not working. I used to get ERROR on the console's built-in status display when putting in a disc and the CD would not spin. I found a guide on how to possibly repair this and performed the repair without having the console hooked up to a TV.

Now I have hooked it up to a TV and no longer get the ERROR message when inserting a disc, but it still does not spin. However, I get a MEMORY FULL message on the console despite having nothing in the memory, likely meaning I need to replace the timekeeper battery or whatever.

My question is, should the disc spin before receiving the memory full screen? If all I have to do is replace the battery to likely get it running and if no longer getting ERROR on the display means that I likely fixed the CD drive, I am going to try to fix it. Otherwise I guess I might have to replace the CD drive or motor and the battery, and getting some MAH BOYYY action really isn't worth all that trouble and money.

>> No.1475824

>>1475809
What kind of cab is it? A wooden MVS cab, or a candy cab? If it is a candy, most relevant monitor controls should be under the control panel. I do not know about the wooden one, so you will want to find a manual for the cab online. You will want to adjust vertical position (could be called V POS or similar), horizontal position (H POS), height, width, and H. hold.

>> No.1475839

>>1475824
Its a US cab, I found some video that shows them though and should be able to get it, thanks for the help

>> No.1475962

>>1472490
if the DexDrive was still working, why not just get a serial to usb adapter?

>> No.1475974

>tfw soldiered a ps1 controller rumbler back onto the circuit board using a paper clip and a stove and it works

ahh.

>> No.1475995

>>1475962
I don't know if it still works (no AC unit, I should look for one), but a serial port to usb adapter would work? Wouldn't Dexter search for the DexDrive at the serial port of my mobo?

>> No.1476010

>>1475995
well if it doesn't have a serial port, why would the software look for a non-existent serial port? What a USB-to-serial adapter does (the goods ones at least) is the driver appears to the software as a serial port, but is actually connected via USB.

>> No.1476030

>>1476010
Hm... I guess I could try. Still, if there was a way to use the PS3 Memory Card Adaptor on the PC it would be the best. Because I'm sure it works.

>> No.1476034

>>1476030
oh I don't doubt there's software out there that lets you manage gamesaves using the PStriple's MCA

>> No.1476056

>>1476034
It would be nice to know about it then! :) . The only software I've found is only compatible with PS2 memory cards and it's used for pirating the system... no word about extracting saves

>> No.1476171

Also not really a repair question but for my neo geo mvs its got a happ over/under with coinbox, but its missing the bucket the coins fall into. I've been looking but does anyonne know where I can get a coin bucket liek that?

>> No.1476254

>>1475276
If you look carefully at the plug, you should see two small openings. This is where the clips that hold it together are. Gently use something to press in on both clips while pulling the front of the connector and it should come right apart.

I used a dogbone to check this, but it should be the same.

>> No.1476293

>>1475275
Yeah, I have. I've pretty much cleaned this thing from head to toe with 70% alcohol.

Including the cartridge slot

I did resort to using super fine sand paper to clean the cartridge slot because the corrosion wouldn't come off any other way

It seemed to make the games boot up more, but they're still garbled

>> No.1476301

>>1476171
dollar store

>> No.1476324

I recently bought a PC Engine Duo-R off eBay. Seller said it was in "perfect working condition," however that turned out not to be the case.

The first (minor) issue is that there are horizontal bars of static that move vertically across the screen. I'm hoping it's just the cable and not the outlet on the console.

The second (much larger) issue is that it no longer reads discs (the console came with nine games, five of which were CDs). A couple games wouldn't load, and on the ones that did, the music would stop playing randomly (sound effects would still work, though). I tried cleaning the laser, but that only made it worse.

My main question is, could this problem be caused by something else, or should I just replace the laser? (All of the discs are in great condition, I'm positive that's not the issue).

>> No.1476328
File: 57 KB, 960x720, 1390754594196.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1476328

>>1476324
I'm no expert but it sounds like the laser had a scratch on the lens and you might have made it worse.

What did you clean it with?

>> No.1476337

>>1476328
Isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

>> No.1476345

>>1476337
Well, that is the usual accepted combo to clean so long as you did it lightly.

you might want to research turning up the power on the laser slightly.

>> No.1476405

>>1476345
You're referring to the pots, correct? I'll look into that over the weekend when I have more time to work on the console.

Thanks for the help.

>> No.1476418

>>1476405
Yeah, I am

You have to be super careful when dealing with them. When I say that, I mean turn them only a hair before testing again. And when I say hair, I mean turn it about the size of a human hair. They're that sensitive

>> No.1476662

okay after messing with the pots on the neo geo the vertical size was already as far as it can go and wont fill up the screen still so not sure what to do about that.

>> No.1476674

>>1468896

I've decided to refurbish an NES. Wat do?

>> No.1477398

>>1476674
Get a broken one.
Make it work.

Not sure what you expect us to tell you with that information.

>> No.1477893
File: 733 KB, 2007x1482, sWbSTHT[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1477893

>>1476662
I was able to get in it to take a picture of the remote pot control thingy and im not sure if you can see but the vertical size pot is turned as far as it will go and it still does not fill the screen. The only other pots I can see in the back are on the neck so I assume its for RGB stuff.

So I am not really sure what else I can do to make the picture fill up the screen.

>> No.1477989

>>1472485

Nevermind. Update to this.

Decided to use an old RF modulator I had hanging around to connect the Genesis to the TV's coaxial input. Now there's no flickering.

The resolution still bugs me though. There's always a little frame around the picture since the TV isn't designed to handle that low of a resolution. Will be shopping locally for a new CRTV, but for now at least my games are playable.

>> No.1478353

>>1471612
Me again.

I blew out any dust around the lid switch with compressed air, and I tweaked the laser pot a smidgen clockwise. Now my Dreamcast spins the discs erratically. When the lid is closed, the disc starts and stops to spin constantly, never long enough to start the game. When I try to hold the lid switch down manually, the switch will begin to spin, then stop about a second later. I can never seem to hold the lid switch down in a way that will keep the game spinning. I'm kind of stumped - I don't know if the problem comes from the laser or the lid switch, and if it was the lid switch, I wouldn't know how to fix it.

>> No.1478854

>>1476293
I've pretty much chocked this VA3 Genesis up to parts now.

After working on it for what seems like 3-4 days, I just gave up. Nothing seemed to make any progress

>> No.1481202

Hi there /vr/. My SNES has been displaying some weird graphical anomalies, most prominently in F-Zero. I wanted to put this up for you guys to see in the hope that any of you have encountered this before/know how to fix it.

Several of my games display these black bars of varying thickness, usually on the title screen as seen in the pic. For most of them, it's just on this screen and doesn't affect gameplay at all. However, when I start a race on F-Zero, this bullshit happens:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbCPvKotP2E&feature=youtu.be [Embed]

If you can't be bothered to watch the clip, the visual representation of the track is very distorted and veers wildly all over the screen, while the physical aspect of the track (the part that your car interacts with) remains stable. It's hard to explain unless you see it for yourself.

This occurs with both copies of F-Zero I've tried, so I'm forced to assume that there is a problem with my SNES. I'm really not that comfortable with my ability to open up the shell of the console without screwing something up, so I wanted to see if someone here could point me in the right direction first.

(FWIW, the other games that display black bars are Lester the Unlikely, Tetris Attack, and Phantom 2040)

>> No.1481213

My SNES consistently has trouble displaying sprites with rotation or expansion or layering effects--Fatty Whale and Combo Cannon in Kirby Superstar are invisible, for instance, as is almost everything in Kirby's Dream course. Any ideas?

>> No.1481273

>>1481202
I'm kind of amazed you're able to play it like that. It may be a problem with the graphical RAM since the game itself seems to be playing alright it's just all graphical issues. You can try reflowing the pins to the RAM chip and see if that fixes it

>> No.1483864

bump

>> No.1484484

Hi people

2 questions you must have answered lots of times

How do you clean a NES that has been in an attic for 2 decades. Should I test if it works before cleaning it?

>> No.1484538
File: 53 KB, 600x450, 1306341879231.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1484538

>>1484484
Open her up, blow out all the dust with a can of air or vacuum that shit out. Wash the outer plastic case like you would dishes in a sink, allow to dry.
Reassemble, go buy Bump n' Jump and play that shit for days.

>> No.1484542

>>1484538
Oh yeah, test it first of course

>> No.1486264

>>1481273

Forgive my ignorance, but are you referring to the graphical RAM within the game cartridge, or something else in the console itself? Do you know of a good tutorial on how to reflow the solder on the pins without ruining anything?

>> No.1486270

I have an old Sega CDX (the small Genesis/CD combo) and it doesn't even try to read discs when it's turned on. The Genesis part works, but the CD doesn't.
How painful/costly would it be to fix that?

>> No.1486347

>>1486270
Its most likely that the laser has gone and needs to be adjusted/replaced

>> No.1486356

>>1486264
The console itself. Actually before you try reflowing you might want to try using a different power adapter as well. It's probably not the problem but it's worth a try.

Reflowing isn't terribly complicated you really just need a fine tip for your soldering iron. Get the iron hot and gently touch it to each pin on the chip for a second or two, basically just long enough so the solder can become liquid and fill in any cracks it might have in it. The issue could also be with one or both of the PPUs(1chip models just have one giant chip)

>> No.1486491

>>1486270
I have a CDX, and for some reason it won't spin the disc at startup about 90% of the time. If I physically give the disc a spin and quickly shut the door before I turn on the CDX, it will read the disc and boot normally and play the game without any problems. It will even stop spinning the disc for an extended period of time when I leave the game alone for a while and have no trouble spinning the disc again when I unpause.

tl;dr - If your CDX doesn't spin the disc when you turn it on, try giving the disc a spin just before you turn the CDX on.
Protip: CDs spin clockwise.

>> No.1487178

>>1486491

Dirty/worn/dry spindle motor or a problem in the power circuit.

It's either not getting enough juice or there's too much friction in the motor for it to start up unless it's warmed up or already in motion.

>> No.1487971
File: 48 KB, 164x120, Immagine.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1487971

Anyone know what this is?

>> No.1487973

>>1487971
a pong console

>> No.1489969
File: 104 KB, 1000x750, soundic-tvsports.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1489969

>>1487971
'Soundic' TV sports console.

>> No.1492030

bump

>> No.1496014

I bought a genesis model 1 and it came with one of those cheap power adapters, after 1 hour playing i start hearing a buzzing noise and the fucking thing just died.

I tested the system with another adapter i have here (9v, 500ma) but the noise persists.

Will the noise go away if i buy an oficial sega power supply or the cheap adapter just accidently my genesis?

>> No.1496992

Is it possible to replace the SNES pin connector? Where would I get one? If it can't be replaced, can it be repaired?

It was my original SNES from when I was a kid and stopped working when I finally reached the Elite 4 for the firs time. I've held on to it for whatever reason, and this sentimental attachment really makes me want to finally repair it.

>> No.1497131

>>1496014
You might have fucked up the two voltage regulators inside

They're 7805C's 1.5 Amp 5V

>>1496992
Depends on the internals of the SNES. I know the launch models with the silk screened eject buttons and some newer models have removable cartage slots. It might just be dust that got under it if its one of those. If its one that's attached right to the board, you're kinda fucked

Pictures would help. Of the top and underside to ID the console.

>> No.1497843
File: 1.20 MB, 958x1436, 20140326_101331.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1497843

Have I broken my famicom?

It's an AV modded famicom, I've had it for a couple of years. I was playing Ninja Gaiden 3 yesterday, and at the end there's a lot of flashing white light in the animations, the screen started to fuck up like in the pic. I thought maybe it was just overheating, I tested the console again today and the problem persists.

One more thing, I always used a universal power supply for the console, except I switched it out for another one yesterday. They're both 9V out, but the old one has 500mA on it, the one I'm using now is 1.5A. Could that be the problem? Can it be fixed?

>> No.1497865

>>1497843
What i see looks definitively like a power problem. Other causes could be the video cable or the video amplifier inside the console (i think that it is very unlikely).

>500mA
No, this is not good for NES or FC. I personally measured my NES: 460-490mA@12VDC during normal operation.
I recommend 1A at least, or else the voltage drops in way that it wouldn't stop the game but cause graphical glitches.

>1.5A
Should be better, but i wouldn't blame that one for the problem.
Try a another one.

>> No.1497873

>>1497865
Pro tip

You can run a NES on as little as 200mA 9V DC and not have any problems. Granted that's a front loader and not a top loader, but that shouldn't make a difference.

Also, the official NES adapter is 1A

>> No.1497892

>>1497873
I don't think so. I was using a laboratory power supply.
I once connected that power supply at 5V directly to the mainboard (bypassing the voltage regulator) and i had something like 490mA.
Don't use weak power sources for the NES, it might look fine at first but then i saw glitches like unstable video output, sprite corruption and the flash for the zapper ceased to work.

>> No.1497901

Okay /vr/, I have a Sega Saturn problem. When I put it on, the disc won't spin, and nothing would show up onTVafter the startup screen.

I know for a fact that a certain literal retard tried to play it weeks earlier and tried to fix it by slamming his hand on it a few times.

I opened it once and tried moving the laser's place, cleaning the dusty parts etc. But nothing changed.
Should I give up?

>> No.1497907

>>1497892
I do think so

It's possible and not uncommon to see a NES running fine on a 200-350mA power supply

That said, I wouldn't go below 500mA personally when looking for one and I would shoot for anything in the 800mA to 1A range

>> No.1497971

>>1497843
Fixed it. The famicom AV out was connected to a multiple AV switcher on the back of the tv, I tried connecting it to the single AV port on the front and now the image is clear. I don't understand why it makes a difference though, I have other 4 consoles hooked up to the same switcher and they work fine.

>> No.1497991

I'm having issues with a Granada Genesis cartridge. When I try to boot up the game, I just get a solid black screen and no sound. I cleaned the contacts myself and the cartridge itself looks fine; solid solder joints, no cut traces, and the resistor, capacitor, and ROM chip look fine. I'm playing it on a Genesis Model 2 rev 1.8 which runs fine with the rest of my Genesis games. Anything else I should check?

>> No.1498013
File: 707 KB, 1936x1296, DSC_0544.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1498013

I've had this pulse man cart for the mega drive for quite a while now, but I can't get it to work proprerly. It always has a weird colored band at the bottom of the screen, and the second stage completely glitches out and it's unplayable. I've been told it's probably a bootleg, and that's why it does not work.

>> No.1498162

>>1498013
Definitely a bootleg. The original had Japanese writing near the logo on the box/cartridge and a slightly different layout.

>> No.1499940
File: 1.68 MB, 3264x2448, 20140326_231501.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1499940

This is my copy of Megaman 3, it does this every time. Can it be fixed /vr/?

>> No.1499941

>>1499940
clean it

Open it up and clean it.

Also, clean the NES

>> No.1499942

>>1499941

This has been done but I'll do it again. By the way, every other game works just fine on my NES.

>> No.1499948

>>1499942
What did you clean it with?

Have you used a NES cleaning kit on the NES? Those generally work well enough.

You also need to open up the game and check each pin for any concision and tarnishing

>> No.1499959
File: 2.36 MB, 3264x2448, 20140326_232352.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1499959

>>1499948

Alcohol of course. Heres a pic of the board.

>> No.1499967

>>1499959
It might be the light but I see some tarnishing on those pins

An eraser would polish them up without damaging them. Then, after you get done with the eraser, wash them off with Alcohol

>> No.1499969

>>1499967

Magic eraser, or rubber eraser?

>> No.1499973

>>1499969
>Magic eraser

NOOoooooooo

Rubber. Preferably one that isn't on the end of a pencil and one of those bigger ones you can get

>> No.1499976

>>1499973
Also go up and down each pin individually and not across

>> No.1500012

>>1499976

didn't work.

>> No.1500024

>>1500012
Well, then it might be the NES isn't making contact with one of the pins.

A NES cleaning kit does really work so long as the pins are in alinement

Have you opened up this NES and worked on the 72 pin connector?

>> No.1500032

>>1500024

Yes, when I traded for the NES the guy said that Megaman 3 had this problem, but threw it in saying I might be able to fix it. I assure you it is not the connector, I was playing Battletoads and Contra on it just fine today. I've also boiled and cleaned the connector.

>> No.1500041

>>1500032
Hmmmm...alright

If you have a soldering iron you could try re flowing the pins on each chip. I'd check that MMC3B chip if you have a multimeter.

Do you get sound and what seems like normal game play but just garbled graphics?

>> No.1500052

>>1500041

Yes I can play the game just fine, the graphics are just fucked to hell.

>> No.1500054

>>1500052
Sounds like something happened to the charter ROM

I'd check the pins under a magnifying glass and test each pin with a multimeter

>> No.1500060

>>1500054

What steps would I take from there?

>> No.1500072

>>1500060
Well,

If there are cracked joints on the CHR ROM chip, then re flowing them might solve the issue.

If you can't see any cracked joints, I'd still re flow the solder on each pin.

Also, the MMC3B chip is responsible for some of the graphics on later NES games. There might be an issue with that chip as well

If it isn't just a soldering issue, and the chips are damaged in some way, replacing them is going to be pretty hard / not cost worthy.

the CHR ROM, you'd have to find a mega man cartage with a good one and transplant it.

The MMC3B can be found in other games, but that's a surfaced mounted chip and that's another ball game

>> No.1500270

I've got a SNES. when I turn on, it does make a sond on the tv, video is receiving, but its black screen. It turns the same without a game. The game is cleaned. I don't have more games, but the board looks good, SNES's Board too, any idea?

>> No.1501347

I got a copy of Gunbird 2 for Dreamcast, and whenever I go to the gallery the screen flickers, and I can see the blue vid2 screen on my TV. Is this the laser in the Dreamcast or the disc itself.

>> No.1502154

>>1500270
Going to need more information

Like pictures of the top and bottom of the console

>>1501347
It might be the TV having a hard time displaying what the console is outputting.

>> No.1502171

>>1501347
Do you have other games?

>> No.1502313

>>1502154
>>1502171

Sonic works just fine, and the TV has no trouble with anything else.

>> No.1502329

>>1502313
Still, I'd try a different TV before saying its the console.

All part of trouble shooting

>> No.1502390

>>1502313
If it works for Sonic, it's probably the disc or the TV as >>1502154 mentioned. The most definitive way you could test this would be to download an ISO of the game and test a burned copy.

>> No.1502442

is there any reason not to use CR2032 batteries in pokemon red/blue/gold/silver cartridges?

>> No.1502480

>>1502442
If there's enough room for a CR2032, I don't see why you couldn't use them. You might need some electrical tape to make sure the battery doesn't short out against some of the components, though.

>> No.1502491

>>1502480
I don't know what battery size it takes, but he may want to check voltage and amps of that battery and compare them to the CR2032. Nothing like frying the board or underpowering it so the saves don't work.

>> No.1502507

Anyone had any luck fixing mode 7 problems on super nintendo's?

I've been googling for awhile and sounds like its basically fucked. I just don'twant to go through the effort of recapping and reflowing everything just to find out I have to buy a new one anyway.

Also, any recommendations on getting a sSNES? Is it better to get a mini and the rgb mod, better chance of it lasting longer since its newer?

>> No.1502529

>>1502491
>>1502480
i already put a CR2032 in my blue version and it fit and is working, i just wanted to know if there's any consequences down the road i should know about

>> No.1502534

>>1502491
Game Boy games use a CR2025 battery, which has the same voltage as a CR2032, 3 Volts. The CR2032 will just give you a longer lifespan.

>> No.1502554

>>1502507
Personally, I recommend a 1CHIP SNES which are late revisions of the first SNES model. There are also Japanese 1CHIP Super Famicoms. I'm not sure if there are any PAL ones, though. They seem to have the best sound out of all the models and you don't have to mod them for RGB, and the onboard RGB is pretty damn close to how good a modded mini SNES's RGB is. I personally can't tell the difference. You also can bypass the onboard RGB amps and make the video just as good as a modded mini SNES, anyways. They also seem far less likely to have yellowed plastic cases compared to earlier models.

http://retrorgb.com/1chipsnes.html

>> No.1502556

I don't have an issue. It's more of a concern. I bought a copy of Final Fantasy VIII today and disc 2 has many scratches. They are only surface scratched, nothing I can actually feel. And the disc reads fine and gets to the menu. But despite this, are there any chances of it skipping or freezing later in the game? I need to know ahead of time so I know to return it if it was a bad purchase.

>> No.1502562

>>1502556
I suppose you could try copying and pasting all the files from the disc onto your computer and see if your PC has any trouble reading any files that may be damaged. Granted, current CD drives on computers are way more powerful than the PlayStation's, but that's probably the quickest, albeit not the most reliable way.

>> No.1502570

>>1502556
Well yes there is a chance. If the scratches are very light, then it is less likely. Give it a good cleaning to make sure they are really scratches and not just smudges or residue of some sort.

>> No.1502578

>>1502554
And after doing a quick search, it looks like there are PAL 1CHIP SNES's.

http://sd2snes.de/blog/archives/75
http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=13

>> No.1502585

>>1502570
>>1502562
Yeah I can see the possibility of it freezing. But they are mere surface scratches, and I see no cracks, deep scratches or bubbles. It should be ok.

>> No.1503013

I play retro games on my SP so its retro..
Kinda..

Anyway, when i play games on my SP there appears to be scan-lines when moving up and down. Say in Metroid2/Links Awakening moving left to right the screen is fine tho moving up and down the screen gets thick scan-lines and the pixels kinda flicker. Any idea?

>> No.1503381

>>1503013
I was having the same issue with a blue SP that I picked up at the local store. The screen went out a day later so I returned it. Hopefully yours will not do the same.

>> No.1503383

>>1503013
Does wiggling the screen affect anything?

>> No.1503396
File: 1.08 MB, 2048x1842, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1503396

>>1503381
>>1503381
Cheers for the replys. Not exactly /vr/ so I appreciate it.

Nope. Physically moving/wiggling the screen does nothing at all. What's odd it's the pixels flicker only when moving up or down.

I attempted to take a picture. Notice the bridge is going crazy.

>> No.1503398
File: 957 KB, 1978x2046, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1503398

>>1503396
And here is a Picture moving left to right

>> No.1504214
File: 261 KB, 1000x750, DSC04015.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1504214

Can someone tell me what is this capacitor doing there?

>> No.1504263

>>1502578
>>1502554
Wow, and here I though the one with the separate sound module was the better system.

I'll have to keep an eye out on the SNESs I get in

>> No.1504268

>>1504214
First of all that isn't a capacitor, that's a resistor

And its wired straight to the grounding plane so its most likely to remove some sort of noise / interference.

>> No.1504304

>>1504214
Not factory that's for sure. It's a ~3900ohm resistor if you're curious. Likely part of an AV mod and the guy just gave up or something

>> No.1504426

>>1504268
>>1504304
Resistor, sorry.

The thing was making a loud buzzing sound with no actual audio, opened it up to take a look but i accidentally touched the crystal and i think it caused a short circuit. Now i need to replace the fuse.

Any ideas of how to fix the sound issue?

>> No.1504437

>>1504426
are you getting any type of visual on the TV?

That resistor might be part of it although it seems its hooked up to a ground pin on that chip and that chip has to do with the video and not audio

>> No.1504441
File: 277 KB, 1000x750, 1396053473165.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1504441

>>1504426
cut and lift the leg of the resistor it serves no function anyway

>> No.1504454

>>1504437
Well the bridge from the encoder chip to the ground plane might be introducing noise which could be interfering with the audio. The audio is a separate chip though you're right

>> No.1504470

>>1504454
True, but it looks like it's connected to a ground pin on the chip

It shouldn't be doing anything but at the same time it serves no purpose other then maybe reducing some noise in the video.

I say remove it like >>1504441 said

And try and get the leg off the chip, it could be bridging connections you don't want it to

>> No.1504473

>>1504470
when I say leg, I mean the leg of the resistor and not the chip its self

>> No.1504754

>>1497843
>>1497971

The Famicom's specs call for 850mA@10V. A 9V adapter may get it to run but that small difference in voltage could lead to it being unable to keep the power stable in some situations. The triggers for which can be as variable and unexpected as the results.

>>1497865
>NES: 460-490mA@12VDC
>12VDC

wut

>>1496014

Was the cheap supply also 9V, and how much current was it rated for? The Genny needs a supply that can provide up to 1.2A, and if the brick isn't up to the task then any number of things could go wrong depending on what fails first.

>> No.1504823

>>1504754
I've been running a Super Famicom which also takes 850mA@10V with a Sega CD model 2 AC adapter (1200mA@9V) and I have yet to run into any power issues, even with my SD2SNES which would increase the power draw. Still, you're probably right that 9V adapters might not be good enough in some situations.

>> No.1504840

>>1504823
>>1504754
You guys do realize that AC adapters put out more voltage without a draw on them right?

A 10V AC adapter is going to hover around 11.5V without a load and under a load is most likely going to be around 9V, right where the NES needs it.

And you're not going to run into power issues with a Sega CD model 2 AC adapter (1200mA@9V), at least not low voltages

You might have a heat issue and over voltages with 1200mA going though a Super Famicom. You're putting stress on the 7805 voltage regulator.

If you wanted you could put some silver arctic 5 on the heat sync to promote cooling

>> No.1504850

>>1504840
Just looked up the SNES AC and its 1.3 amps

You should be fine, never mind

I was thinking it was the NES power supply that sits at around 1 amp

>> No.1504859

Are there any replacements to the power cord for the NES? My cord still works, but only when it's twisted a certain way. I figure there's a problem with the wiring, though I don't have the tools to dig into it too much.

>> No.1504857

>>1504840
Electronics only draw as much amperage as they need. There is no problem with using an AC adapter that provides more amperage than the device needs. In fact, with my SD2SNES adding more of a draw, it's probably good that I'm using an adapter that can supply more current.

>> No.1504862

>>1504857
Well I made my self look stupid

>> No.1504865

>>1504857
that's not how it works... you can overload amps to the detriment of a circuit

>> No.1504875

>>1469047
I would pot tweak the laser. I've repaired probably close to 50 Gamecubes in my time. I'd say about 70% of them were fixed with a pot tweak.

This is a decent tutorial: http://128bit.me/index.php?topic=26113.0

Just be sure you have the tools to open the GC and a multimeter for measuring your pot adjustments. I like to keep mine between 120 and 240 ohms. Just have to find out what works consistently.

>> No.1504876

>>1504865
You can overload them with too much voltage, not current.

>> No.1504882

>>1504876
no you could overload with current also. its the flow rate of the electricity. imagine a bathtub filling so fast it overflowed

>> No.1504890

>>1504876
>>1504882
To clarify, voltage is determined not only by current, but by the resistance of the circuit. Obviously if you overload the amperage, you'll overflow the voltage.

The resistance will slightly increase with that additional amperage due to it heating up, but otherwise voltage and amperage are proportional for the sake of this circuit.

>> No.1504926

>>1504840
>A 10V AC adapter is going to hover around 11.5V without a load and under a load is most likely going to be around 9V, right where the NES needs it.

And then an adapter with a nominal output of 9V will be pulled below 9V at load... The power circuit can generally deal with this but it's still outside spec and other factors combined with it (eg: perhaps connectors being used have unusually high impedance) can produce unexpected results.

>You might have a heat issue and over voltages with 1200mA going though a Super Famicom. You're putting stress on the 7805 voltage regulator.

The current rating of the power supply has nothing to do with the current the system is actually drawing. You'll only stress the regulator if you do something that causes the console to pull more current through it than it's rated for (eg: power hungry custom hardware). LM7805s are rather sturdy, regardless.

>> No.1504929

>>1504882
>>1504890
http://lists.soekris.com/pipermail/soekris-tech/2004-January/004798.html
http://dfarq.homeip.net/2010/11/what-you-need-to-know-to-safely-replace-or-substitute-ac-adapters/
http://famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=6933.0

>> No.1504971

>>1504840
>you're not going to run into power issues with a Sega CD model 2 AC adapter (1200mA@9V), at least not low voltages

I wouldn't be completely comfortable with it. Have you seen what a voltage regulator does when you get too close to its dropout voltage?

Note that designers try to feed regulators at only slightly above their dropout voltage to begin with because it's more efficient and they run cooler. A fraction of a volt below the expected input can be all it takes for the regulator to turn into a noise generator.

The 7805 drops out of regulation at 7V. Hooking up a 9VDC brick to the power board is cutting it close after taking circuit losses and supply droop into account.

>> No.1504979

>>1504926
>>1504971
I was wrong

>> No.1505239 [DELETED] 

>>1504754
I wanted to know how much current a 12V switching supply (for emergency reasons) needs to provide for the NES/SNES for normal operation.

>>1504823
>even with my SD2SNES which would increase the power draw
It's not that much, the menu of the SD2SNES draws as much current as SMK (510mA@12VDC) and with a MSU1 game (600-610mA@12VDC) it goes a little above a SuperFX game (500-560mA@VDC).

>> No.1505241

>>1504754
I wanted to know how much current a 12V switching supply (for emergency reasons) needs to provide for the NES/SNES for normal operation.

>>1504823
>even with my SD2SNES which would increase the power draw
It's not that much, the menu of the SD2SNES draws as much current as a running SuperFX game (560mA@VDC) and with a MSU1 game (600-610mA@12VDC) it goes a little above a SuperFX game.

>> No.1505423

>>1504437
Not now since i accidentally touched the crystal oscillator and it doesn't turn on anymore, but when the system was working it was outputting video with a really visible white vertical line in the screen and a loud humming noise, with no actual music in the game.

I saw a post elsewhere and the guy had the same problem, he changed the capacitors and the sound problem was solved. But i don't know if it worth the trouble.

>> No.1505461

>>1505423
>Not now since i accidentally touched the crystal oscillator and it doesn't turn on anymore
Check the fuse (with a multimeter) near the 7805.

>> No.1506210

Sega audio problems!

Gen 2 genesis, plain old AV cable. Sound works fine from the white, or red, rca, but not both together.

It sounds like the left and right speakers are out of sync or some shit and driving me crazy. Probably a capacitor issue?

>> No.1506218

>>1506210
Forgot to mention, it's not the tv, and it's not the AV cable.

>> No.1506734

>>1505461
Yeah, this

>>1505461

Also, take off that resistor

>> No.1509080

Bump

>> No.1509118
File: 1.19 MB, 1150x2150, Game-Boy-Camera.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1509118

Anyone here know anything about Gameboy/Pocket Camera? the wire connecting the camera to the circuit board on mine is fucked and I was wondering if anyone could help me find a replacement.

>> No.1509905

Got a NES (PAL) recently, and noticed something odd about it. Occasionally, it'll work just fine, but a few times it'll flick between on and off and just show a flickering white screen during this time.

How bad is it?

>> No.1509954

>>1509905
Very, very common problem. Might just need the contact pins cleaned or at worst tightened slightly. Shouldn't need replacing unless the problem is far more prevalent than normal operation.

>> No.1509964

>>1509954
>contact pins
Where would these be, exactly?

>> No.1510006

>>1509964
I don't want to be rude and I'd prefer not to spoonfeed, but it's simply faster in this case:
>https://www.google.com/search?q=nes+contact+pins

>> No.1510697

Lemme run by this one with you, /vr/. My copy of Kirby Super Star was a formal rental copy at Blockbuster (I purchased it from them when they were clearing house to make room for the next gen games) It plays fine, but it has one tragic flaw where the save data will erase whenever I remove it from the system. in other words if I want to 100% the game I can never pop it out of my Super NES until I'm done with the game. Anyone have a suspicion what exactly is wrong with this cart?

>> No.1510705

>>1510697
Battery's dead (I guess something else could possibly cause it, but 99.9% sure it will just be the battery). I'm sure there are plenty of guides online telling you how to replace it.

>> No.1510708

>>1510705
Does keeping the game in the system maintain a charge to the battery otherwise?

>> No.1510728

>>1510708
You mean if you save a game, turn off the console, and turn the game back on a few hours later the save is still there?

>> No.1510749

>>1510708
The battery can't be charged. When the console is on then the RAM chip (that holds your save data) is powered by the console and not by the battery.

But i have my experience with SA-1 carts. Whenever i do stupid shit with cheating devices (enabling the PAR3 or wiggling) then it crashes the game and erases all my data. I found this out the hard way.
Maybe you just have dirty contacts. I recommend to open the cartridge to check it for internal damage (because you said it was a rental).

>> No.1510745

>>1510728
Right. Date only gets lost if I physically remove the cartridge from the system. And even then it's not ALL the time where the data gets wiped, just most of the time, say 4/5.

>> No.1511254

>>1502390

Alright I returned the copy I bought, and bought another copy, and it does the exact same thing, also when I try to enter the special gallery the screen goes black but the music still plays. Should I just return the disc?

>> No.1511441

I'm thinking of modding my Dreamcast arcade stick. I was thinking Sanwa OBSF-30 Switches, but I'm not sure on what stick I should install. Anybody with this or any arcade stick mod I'd love some tips from you.

>> No.1511486

>>1497901
check the door sensor, make sure it's not open when the tray is closed

>> No.1511587

I got a copy of Shining Force that needs a new CR2032 battery. I know that CR2023-T's fit the best (aka the pins are spaced correctly for resoldering), but I'd rather install a replaceable battery holder. Anyone know of one that will fit inside a genesis cart without modification?

This is what I mean btw:
>http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/S8421-45R/?qs=Qom7kyPojXY6z0Gmx3V3RQ==
Those are also a perfect fit for SNES carts if anyone is wondering.

>> No.1512257

>>1511587
You're not going to need to replace it often enough to make a battery holder worth it.

>> No.1512376

So, I picked up a Playstation (SCPH-5502) today, it has a mod chip installed, however if I put in a NTSC game (does not matter if burned or original), it gets loaded but the video is black and white. However that is not the case with PAL games.
Can anyone tell me how I could fix this?

>> No.1512808

What type of resistor should I use when installing LEDs?

>> No.1513030

>>1512808
The type that will give the desired power output given the input.

>> No.1513038

>>1512376
RGB SCART cable.

>> No.1513165

>>1513038
Would that help even though PAL games are in color?

>> No.1513169

>>1513165
Yes, SCART supports 60hz display. NTSC games use 60hz, while PAL uses 50hz. He just gave you the exact solution to a ridiculously common problem.

>> No.1513204

>>1513038
>>1513169
Thank you for the advice but it didn't help me. The screen is still black and white.

>> No.1513246

>>1513204
Get a NTSC to PAL convertor

>> No.1513306

>>1513204
Sure it's *RGB* SCART? Some SCART cables are wired for S-video only.

In the unlikely case that your TV doesn't support RGB, you'll need to install a 4.433MHz crystal, see:
http://www.angelfire.com/sk3/modzone/

Good luck finding one, my quick search only finds the two pin version.

>> No.1513365

how difficult is it to play pirated ds games on a dsi?

>> No.1513512

>>1513365
Pirated games are just as difficult to play as the originals. It really just depends how good you are at the particular game.

Google R4

>> No.1513609

>>1513512
i just want to emulate nes/snes
is a flashkart + microsd all i need for that? i used to do emu on psp, and that required heavy homebrew
should i be ok to update the firmware to latest? its on Ver 1.3U

>> No.1513735

>>1513609
nvm researched it myself
ill stay on 1.3 then

>> No.1514212

>>1511441

bumping this

>> No.1514717

>>1511587
Unfortunately no

Most CR2032 battery holders need to be modified before they'll even fit inside

>> No.1514736

>>1513204
>but it didn't help me.
Then you need a new TV or new Playstation. Unless you didn't use an RGB SCART cable. You can always crack it open and check if it has the pins.

>> No.1514763

>>1514736
I don't think that is necessary anymore. I opened up my Playstation and it did not have the crystal oscillator like the one >>1513306 linked me to and ordered one.
But now I am curious. What pins does it have to have to be a RGB SCART cable?

>> No.1515384
File: 1.72 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140402_154202.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1515384

I've got a SNES. when I turn on, it does a "hum" on the tv, video is receiving, but its black screen. It turns the same without a game. The game is cleaned. I don't have more games, but the board looks good, SNES's Board too, any idea?

>> No.1515395
File: 1.67 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20140402_154413.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1515395

>>1515384
This is the game I'm using, its a Killer Instinct

>> No.1515441

>>1515384
>any idea?
Cracked/dry solder joints (on both)
Bad power supply

You should measure the voltages at the 7805 and the state of the reset generator U11 (the pin that's connected to a thin trace, which goes to the CPU pin 50, low means running and high means reset).
Don't forget to discharge before you touch it when powerless, by turning on without the power supply.

>> No.1515456

>>1515441
>low means running and high means reset
*i mixed that up, the opposite is true.

And measure while the game is inserted.

>> No.1515486

>>1515441
Excuse me sir, but what is 7805?

>> No.1515497

>>1515486
Voltage regulator. Converts excess voltage to heat, giving a stable 5V output.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7805_%28integrated_circuit%29

>> No.1515669

>>1515497
I Think I'm getting 4v and 8v input, or my tester is damaged.
It can be the cause why the game cant run?

>> No.1515681
File: 24 KB, 596x420, 7805 pinout.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1515681

>>1515669
Sure you're measuring the right places (see attached pinout)? If you're getting 8V from input to ground, and 4V from output to ground then the 7805 is broken. 4V is probably too low for anything to work.

>> No.1515726
File: 1.35 MB, 2448x3264, IMG_20140402_185925.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1515726

>>1515681
The adapter is giving 8V, or I forget how to read testers, or its broken

>> No.1515750

>>1515726
Should be 9V or 10V depending on the model. Correct voltage is written on the adapter. 8V is close enough.

Output voltage of the 7805 is more important.

>> No.1515774

>>1515750
Tested another SNES, and it's giving the same.
How to test the state of the U11?

>> No.1515808

>>1515774
It has three pins: reset, ground, input

Reset is the one connected to the main CPU (U1)
Ground is connected to the ground plane (the big trace under the U11 label)
The other pin is input.

Reset should be low if input is greater than 4.2V. If input is less than 4.2V then reset will be high and nothing will work.

>> No.1515829

>>1515750
>Should be 9V or 10V depending on the model.
Only 10VDC for the NTSC SNES. 9VAC is used for PAL SNES and NES.

>8V is close enough.
Then it passes the diode inside the NTSC SNES and drops down to 7.3V (or even lower) and that is very close to the minimum voltage threshold of the 7805 (dropout=2V, 2V+5V=7V). Also games with loud music (Turrican or Probotector/Contra 3) can sound distorted in this case.
http://nocash.emubase.de/fullsnes.htm#snespowersupply

>> No.1515909

>>1515808
It's giving 4V, What shoud I do.

>> No.1516162

Why are older PS1 Lasers so damn difficult to come across? got an SCPH-1001 with a bad assembly and I can't find a replacement

>> No.1516207

>>1516162
1001s had a huge design flaw and are the hardest to find

>> No.1516219

>>1516207
funny, I've got two. one works fine, the other doesn't.

should I just stuff the working one somewhere and get a newer one for actually playing?

>> No.1516245

>>1516219
sooner or later you'll be turning that working one upside-down like a fanboy c.1996

>> No.1516281

I could actually use some help.

I recently pulled out all of my Nintendo systems (NES through GC) and recently bought an AV adapter to make it easier on connecting them to my tv. Problem is with my SNES. When the power turns on, I still don't get a screen. AV works fine with the N64 and GC, so I'm not entirely sure what could be the issue.

The only clue I might have is that the bottom tray where you place the game doesn't look entirely clean due to age.

>> No.1516315

>>1516281
Dirty pins most likely

>> No.1516318

>>1516245
Or he could properly grease the tracks and reduce the wear on the system like Sony should have done

>> No.1516359
File: 1.05 MB, 3264x1840, 2013-06-30_17-16-49_199.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1516359

>>1516245
I thought it was sideways?
here's an older picture of it.

>> No.1517274

Anyone have experience with the redesigned replacement joystick for N64?
After ordering one, the connector wouldn't fit any of my three controllers.
I took it up to my local game store, and they let me take apart some of their controllers. If I found one that fit, they would just swap controllers with me.
The thing is, I couldn't find one that fit there, either.

>> No.1517910
File: 11 KB, 300x300, 41hJkGWodUL._SY300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1517910

>>1517274
>redesigned replacement joystick for N64
Those?
Can u post a photo showing why it doen't fit?

>> No.1517941

>>1517910
The very same.
I can post a picture if needed, I'm mostly just curious if anyone has ran into the same issue. The connector running from the joystick is just outright too big to fit into controller's connector.

>> No.1518027

>>1517910
>>1517941

They fit. Don't have one personally but lots of good reviews. Remember they are mass-produced with no real quality control, so a defective one once in a while is expected. Send it back and get another one, or return it, and purchase from another seller. They are two or three manufacturers that make them IIRC

>> No.1518045

>>1517274

I got one and the plug was slightly too large.

I trimmed it. Is this your issue?

>> No.1518046

>>1517941
this fag replaced it without problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2ThuFzVN5U

>> No.1518061

>>1518046
>them dirty fucking thumbnails

Bluhhhhhhhhh

>> No.1518104
File: 104 KB, 500x484, пост-рокбезисходность-песочница-пост-рок-577663.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1518104

>>1515909
Still can't fix my SNES

>> No.1518136

>>1518027
>>1518045
>>1518046

Thanks guys.
May just end up trimming them down. I bought two of them, but neither one has fit.

>> No.1518283

I know this is a little outside of /vr/'s scope but I've encountered a problem and you guys were the first people I thought to ask. Dug out my old PS2 and beatmania controller the other day and have been playing it frequently the past few days. Everything was working great, sat down today to play and my controller was able to do 1 spin with the record to move the menu selection and then it stopped working out of no where. Have tried cleaning the plugs and opened it up to see if anything looked wrong, didn't want to fuck it up so I though I better ask the internet before attempting anything.

>> No.1518301

>>1518046
Despite looking like an alien dildo, it looks like it was made to be easyly replaceable. I wish sony would do that too.

>> No.1518318

>>1518283
Kind of got it working, the beatmania controller port is really gunked up though. Never noticed before today, anyone have any good tips for cleaning PS1 style controller hook ups? Qtips don't fit very well.

>> No.1518329

>>1518318
Toothbrush + rubbing alcohol

>> No.1518332

>>1518318
Roll a cotton ball thin and use something narrow to push it in and out.

>> No.1518438

>>1518329
>>1518332
Thanks

>> No.1518456

>>1502507
Adding on to my previous post in case someone runs into this.

Had a SNES that appeared to work fine in every game I played on it except axelay and contra.

Turns out that it would play other mode 7 games fine (Mario kart, pilot wings, etc).

Just something to keep in mind when testing if a SNES is good to go. Dunno what konami is doing with that mode 7 shit but ah well.

>> No.1518492

>>1514212
I remember the Dreamcast stick having very nice hardware to begin with.

The buttons are all simple switches so you could just snip the wires and use jumpers to connect the new ones to the board.

>> No.1521216

bump for fix

>> No.1521552

Got a Sega Saturn question.

I have a VA6 Sega Saturn and the power board was giving me around 1.25 - 1.5 Volts when it was suppose to be giving me around 5Vs.

I ordered some TOP202YAI's a week ago to replace a transistor on the power board. Turns out that the VA 6 doesn't have a TOP202YAI and has a 5FWJ2CZM (E). I imagine they're not interchangeable. Ah well, I have 5 now I can use if I get another Saturn that doesn't power on.

Anyways, what would be a good replacement for a 5FWJ2CZM (E)?

>> No.1521570

>>1521552
>5FWJ2CZM

First hit on google for 5FWJ2CZ says:
>5FWJ2CZ NTE Equvilent NTE6085 RECTIFIER DUAL SCHOTTKY 45V 15A TO-220 COMMON CATHODE

http://www.weisd.com/test/GenericParts_WEISD_view.php?editid1=5FWJ2CZ

So I guess NTE6085.

But you should look up the datasheets for both parts, and see if the numbers match.

>> No.1521578

>>1521570
Yeah, I've tried searching for a NTE6085 on Digi key and Mouser but I got nothing

I should compare the data sheets

>> No.1521580

>>1521578
I managed to find the TOP202YAI data sheet

http://dalincom.ru/datasheet/TOP202YAI.pdf

>> No.1521583

>>1521580
The TOP202 is a pwm switch and the 5fwj2c is a schottky diode.

not the same thing.

>> No.1521586

>>1521580
>>1521578
also, which power supply is it, if it's a voltek model s-7218, I can try looking up parts for you (it's the only 110v 4-pin psu I have, due to living in Yurop)

>> No.1521584
File: 1.96 MB, 458x251, 1395364712913.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1521584

>>1521583
Yeah, I kinda figured

So what Saturn Models use the TOP202YAI?

>> No.1521595

>>1521586
It might be that one. I don't have it on me, its at my shop.

I'll have to see

>> No.1521605

>>1521584
>So what Saturn Models use the TOP202YAI?

Quite a lot of them. I haven't gotten around to recording parts lists for power supplies yet, so I can't give a definitive answer for that.

Most power supplies seem to have a PWM switch and a schottky diode however so you may just be looking at the wrong part.

>> No.1521616

>>1521605
I did unsolder another transistor that's further back on the board. I should have recorded that part number.

From what I remember though it didn't have many identifying markings

Separate question

When I went into order the TOP202YAI's the guy pulled out a catalog and was able to look up some sort of common ID number for it

What book or books lists all these parts?

I have to give it to the guy, he found original TOP202YAI's for me and not a modern equivalent.

>> No.1521621

>>1521616

Also, the transistor that's further back, near the power connector and fuse, is free standing and not attached to any type of heat sync

the one that's closer toward the front of the console is the one that I de-soldered and is the 5FWJ2CZM (E). That one had a heat sync

>> No.1522241
File: 16 KB, 269x390, Vectrex.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1522241

I have cleaned the cartridges and the slot of the console but it still is flickering. The flickering starts as soon as you start the gameplay. Is it because of the

>> No.1522242

>>1522241
*xyz cable?

>> No.1522461

>>1521621
Then it's probably not a Voltek s-7218 because that one has both ICs next to heat sinks.

For what its worth, the modern equivalent of a TOP202YAI is a TOP223YN or TOP224YN. Someone changed it to the latter and he mentioned that the power supply is less problematic and emits less heat afterwards.

>> No.1523887

>>1522461
Alright, thanks for the information

I totally forgot to check today. I was per-occupied working on an old Xbox and just trying to get the dust out from it

>> No.1524127

>>1523887
okay, I've just checked a bunch of my saturns power supplies.

TOP202YAI seems to have been only used in 220v power supplies, and can cause problems pretty often there (due to other design faults). The 110v power supplies seem to have used a TOP102YAI.

However I don't have any power supplies in hand that fits the description of your model, so it is extremely likely that it doesn't use that.

>> No.1524149

>>1524127
So the TOP202YAI is for the PAL models only?

I'm in the USA and NTSC

>> No.1524168

>>1524127
>>1524149
What would be a modern equivalent for a TOP102YAI?

>> No.1524191

>>1515909
any help here? still wating

>> No.1524203

Did N64's come with any other screws in the shell besides the 3.8/4.5mm security bits? Because I have 2 screws left that aren't able to be taken out by them

>> No.1524228

Quick repair question that I can't seem to find a definitive answer to on Google:
Does the Sega CD actually require the heat plate in order to work, or is it just recommended to hold the system in place?

>> No.1524281

Cracked open and thoroughly cleaned out my Clear PIL Gameboy today. Haven't used it in at least a decade but it looked so sad full of some kinda junk and probably nicotine. Still needs a new front screen protector, but it looks pretty good again. Feels good, man.

>> No.1524562

>>1524203
Nope, all the screws in the bottom are the same size.

>> No.1524732

>>1524168
>TOP102YAI

In theory the TOP223YN also works in 110v machines, but if you don't have problems finding a TOP102YAI then you should use that. There are some differences in their design, and unless you are an electronics engineer (if you were, you already would've compared the datasheets), you won't make sense of any of the key differences.

And your power supply may not even use a TOP102YAI to begin with! Verify first that it uses that one before you plug random chips into it.

>> No.1524824
File: 282 KB, 2200x1600, NES-controller.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1524824

I want to start refurbishing/rebuilding old game controllers as a way to make a little money on the side. What would be a reasonable price to charge for a controller* that has been restored?

*of course, different controllers go for different prices, but I assume that as long as you stick to common systems the difference can't be too much. For reference purposes, let's say that I'm working on a pic related.

>> No.1525028

>>1524824

bump.

>> No.1525062

>>1524824
Get ready for your room to be filled with broken shit. I can't even walk in here anymore. I constantly come home with 5-10 consoles and get packages in the mail with 20 of the same console non-working. I'm so backlogged that I feel like a hoarder.

>> No.1525095

>>1525062

My body is ready. Tell me more about the refurbishing Biz, my fellow /vr/ trooper.

>> No.1525171

>>1525095

Bamp. Not him, but also looking into become a refurbisher. How does one clean contacts?

>> No.1525253

>>1525171
On what? Generally you just use alcohol. Putting a cloth over a credit card and dipping into some rubbing alcohol can be useful for cleaning cartridge connectors, q tip with alcohol is good for cartridges, rubbing the black rubber bits rather hard with alcohol is good for controllers. Controllers can be a bit of a pain since you might take a few tries to really get the stickiness off of them and sometimes the rubber bit under dpads can be tricky to get lined up just right.

>> No.1525347

>>1525253

Thanks, what about ones with corrosion?

>> No.1525359

>>1525062

After you fix your stuff up, how much do you sell it for? I'd like to know what a good, non-gougey price would be. Do you only do consoles or do you also do controllers and the like?

>> No.1525385
File: 1.19 MB, 3264x2448, one.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1525385

>>1468923
Neat. This thread is still. I'm the one that asked about this. And I just finished replacing the shell on my GBA SP. It was surprisingly easy except for one particular part, which was getting the hinges out. That was a pain in the ass. Other than that, it was really easy. It took me under 2 hours to do it.

>> No.1525389

>>1525359
The Nintendo consoles sell for a lot but I have to sell it at market value because of high fees on Amazon.

NES $50
N64 $30
SNES $60
Gamecube $30

I know it looks like a lot but you have to understand that they they take up to 20% away for fees and the shipping cost is included in the price. That's why Amazon listings for consoles is always high. Though I do get all my consoles for 5-10 dollars. Once you have this much junk it doesn't matter if it's console only because you have 20 RF adapters for NES and 30 N64 power supplies along with tubs of controllers.

>> No.1525391
File: 1.74 MB, 2448x3264, two.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1525391

>>1525385
And the finished pic. Not bad for $13 on ebay. Also, I used this guide if anyone cares: https://www.gaminggenerations.com/tutorials/59/1-t1058/

>> No.1525393

>>1525385
You were supposed to use needle-nose pliers for the hinges and they come out easily. Getting them back in involves banging them on the table though. But yes that's my least favorite part.

>> No.1525396

>>1525393
That's actually what I used, but they were stuck in there super tight.

>> No.1525464

>>1525389

Are those prices for the consoles only or do you bundle stuff with them? Also, what about just fixing up controllers to start/learn the ropes? I remember some guy was asking about this a few months ago and this dude in Hong Kong said that there's good money in controllers. Do you ever just sell those stand-alone?

>> No.1525589

>>1525464

*just fixing up controllers for now

>> No.1525650

>>1524824
Reasonable depends a lot on context. For a good condition NES controller a few bucks is already too much. For a hipster to lazy to visit a flea market who wants a shiny controller off ebay $15 is the lowest I'd go.

>>1525062
>not letting the broken shit have it's own room
>hoarder
According to some poorfag comrades here having more than one console is hoarding.

>> No.1525663

>>1525650

Thanks. I was thinking of selling completely refurb'd controllers with new rubber pads and the like for around $10 on eBay.

>> No.1525682

>>1525385
where did you buy it from? DX?

>> No.1525917

>>1525650

>For a good condition NES controller a few bucks is already too much

Please define "good condition" and "a few bucks".

>> No.1526016

>>1525917
It's subjective but since you can find them in new condition for $5 start there and work your way back.

>> No.1526029

>>1526016

You can find brand new NES controllers for $5 bucks? You mean good ones or that third-party Chinese crap?

>> No.1526062

>>1525682
Ebay. I got it in two weeks.

>> No.1526201 [DELETED] 

>>1524824
>>1525062
>>1525095
>>1525359
>>1525389
>>1525464
>>1525650

Shig disgusting resellers and reseller wannabees pls make like Kebab and remove yourselves from the premises

>> No.1526267

Ok, so my old nes suddenly stopped working probably dead by humidity or something I don't know but I got another one that at least can be turned on, but the pin connector where dead beyond repair so I decided to change it for my old nes one, but now the new nes won't display anything with the rca ports only with rf and well it looks like shit.

What could have happened, how can I check what went wrong and see if I can repair it?

>> No.1526293

>>1499959
I clean my games with a toothbrush with alcohol, brush fucking everything and wait for it to dry, then clean the pins with a q-tip and alcohol again.

For some extreme cases where the pins are damaged or something is wrong with them I gently polish them with a nail polisher, that usually do the trick.

I have yet to see a game that won't work after that treatment, I even repaired a SNES with that method.

>> No.1526326

>>1524732
Yeah, I'll have to check around

So in theory a TOP202YAI might be able to replace a TOP102YAI because their modern equivalent would be a TOP223YN?

>> No.1526332

Not retro but I have an original Xbox that I've been working on for the past day or so. I've just gotten around to the electronics and trouble shooting.

When I turn it on the LED flashes from Red to Orange and back. I have to push the power button a few times before it powers on.

I've taken out the main board and I've ID-ed some capacitors that seem to be bad.

They are three 3300Uf 6.3V that I took off and checked with a multimeter and it said they where around 4500-4600Uf for each.

I am thinking this failure might be bad capacitors.

Anyone have any other input into what might cause an original Xbox to not want to power on and flash Red and Orange?

>> No.1526649

>>1526029
>brand new
define brand new.
I mean original controllers in new condition. Occasionally they'll be boxed but ones with no detectable use whatever they come in.

>>1526332
What do you get on the screen?

>> No.1526665

>>1526649
Nothing

>> No.1526875

>>1517941
use a knife to shave off the two raised columns on the top of the plastic connector, it will fit right in

>> No.1526912

>>1526665
TV make/model? Just trying to understand exactly what "Nothing" means.
Tested the cable on another setup?

>> No.1526926

>>1526912
Going though RCA and Coaxial

Both give nothing on the screen

The capacitors on the board that I pulled off are way above the 20% tolerance so I'm thinking its not as simple as an AV issue

>> No.1527018

>>1526926
>Coaxial
As in what? Through the tuner?

>> No.1527024

>>1527018
As in an RF tuner

>> No.1527924

>>1526649

Huh. So if a brand new controller costs a few bucks, then what would a refurbished one fetch?

>> No.1528124

My old NES won't turn on, no red light, no blinking screen no nothing, it's dead. Everything is connected correctly and I already checked my cables on another NES and worked perfectly, so I guess there's something wrong with the power unit of my NES, maybe I burnt a fuse or a capacitor something like that, how do I check what's wrong with my console?

>> No.1528206

>>1528124
>My old NES won't turn on, no red light, no blinking screen no nothing, it's dead
This can be virtually anything, from a broken or corroded power jack to a dead component.
>how do I check what's wrong with my console?
Ever thought of opening?
It's not like Nintendo used special screws on the NES.

>> No.1528704

>>1527024
What cable/adapter are you using? The same for RF and composite?

>>1527924
Like any product whatever the buyer is willing to pay

>> No.1528876

>>1528704
I'm using two different cables

Both give nothing though the video.

I've already removed a few bad caps and I'm going to be replacing them here soon.

Just wish I had one of those meters that can test caps in-line so I don't have to De-soider them first to test

>> No.1528886

>>1528704

>Like any product whatever the buyer is willing to pay

Can I have like a ballpark estimate? Searching through old ebay listings isn't helping me out too much...

>> No.1528913
File: 183 KB, 557x632, judo be pleased.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1528913

>>1470963
These kinds of contact glitches always make me smile with how consistent they are.

>all T's replaced by V's
>all P's replaced by R's
>all S's replaced by U's

Just a damn good reminder that even when technology fucks up, it's still consistent. I'm sorry for replying to a 3+ week old post. I just couldn't resist.

>> No.1529041

>>1528876
My best suggestion would be to first test each component in isolation to eliminate any variables and make sure the problem is with the console. If it is you can look for obvious faults like a loose header, blown component, etc. The lights indicate a video problem but this could be as simple as a bad cable/connection. I've never seen a slightly out of tolerance cap cause this sort of problem and I have 10 or so xboxen.

>>1528886
I don't do a lot of NES controllers because I'm in famicom land but I can't see charging less than $10-$20 for a refurbished controller. The reason is simply that there's a lot of work involved, sourcing, repairing, cleaning, etc. You can find one much cheaper in a flea market or even on ebay from time to time but it makes no sense to run a not for profit cleaning/repairing/remailing service.

>> No.1529059
File: 174 KB, 474x337, 1396855941296.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1529059

>>1529041
I really don't think its a video problem at this point and just a general hardware failure.

There where 3 of the bigger caps way out of the 20% tolerance rage. In fact, they where around 30-40% out of range. I imagine there's going to be even more out of whack.

Apparently Nichicon had a bad batch around 2000-2004 and my console was made in 2002-2003 and is filled with mostly Nichicon.

>> No.1529249

>>1529059
There's really no such thing as a general hardware failure. That's just tech support speak for send it it to be fixed. Given that you can get another console of $5-$10 you can always opt to do that but if you already have it open and are interested in fixing it I'd carry on because some day in the distant future knowing how to do that will be useful.

>> No.1529264

>>1529249
Well when I said general hardware failure. I meant the caps giving out and maybe something else

>> No.1529493

>>1529264
I appreciate "recapping" was all the rage the last few months on /vr/ or was it "reflowing" and "recapping" was the previous thang? That doesn't mean either is the and all and be all solution for everything. Especially a newer console.
I wish I had more to offer but I have something like 10 working boxes and a few dead ones and have never run into the same symptoms that weren't video related.

>> No.1529498

>>1529493
True, but caps being out nearly 35% isn't good at all.

Especially when they're some of the biggest on the board

>> No.1529503

>>1529498
>>1529493
And thanks for your help

>> No.1530603

>>1529041

Well, how does the price of refurbished controllers compare to NIB ones over there?

>> No.1530639

>>1530603
You pay a premium for the box but not much. maybe a buck.

>> No.1530712

>>1515909
any help here?

>> No.1531842

I'd like to play some NTSC games and backup on my PAL consoles (Gamecube, PS2, Saturn, DC), is it true that mod-chips and cd-r are damaging the consoles on the long-term?

>> No.1531843

I'd love to play some NTSC games and backup on my systems (Saturn, DC, GC, PS2 and Wii), is it true that modchips and CD-R are damaging the systems on the long term?

What's the best solution then?

>> No.1531845

Sorry for the double post.>>1531842

>> No.1531850

>>1531845
>>1531843
>>1531842
PS2 and Wii/GC can be played off hard drives now.

Dream Cast and Saturns are a different story

>> No.1532029

My Playstation suddenly gave up to read discs. Neither burned ones nor originals get recognized. It either takes a long time to load and ends up in the selection menu or it says to insert an original disc.
It happened after I played some Legend of Dragoon and freezed in a battle. Should I just clean the lens? If so, how do I do it properly? Or is there an alternative what I could also try?

>> No.1532074

>>1531850
Ok I'll try that.
Do you have a link to a good tutorial for the hard drive mods of those systems, please?

>> No.1532104

What is the best way to open up and repair the output for a Colecovision? I just got one, and used an NES RF adapter but the image is fuzzy and bad.

>> No.1532134

Quick question, I hope you guys can help me.

I want to make some RGB cables: http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

Now, do I really need those 220µF caps at the RGB lines? If yes, how much Volts? 220µF 16V, 32V, etcetc.
Does it even matter how much Volts the caps can handle?
I can't find any info on the Internet and the people I asked just make fun of me. :/

>> No.1532156

>>1532134

I needed to add a 220uf cap and a resistor to my sync line because my PVM would freak out and display only like half the lines if I left it raw. Any voltage should be fine; whatever you find at Radio Shack.

You're supposed to add it for PAL TVs, but not for NTSC. Then again, very few NTSC TVs had RGB support in the first place?

>> No.1532181
File: 60 KB, 940x570, mega drive rgb-scartkabel schaltplan.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1532181

>>1532156
Thanks, man.
I'm from Austria, so PAL region. But I'm playing on a Sony PVM-2950QM (+SyncStrike) or on my LCD with the Framemeister.

Here's another diagram for a SMS/MD RGB cable, but without the capacitors.and fewer ground connections.

As long as the capacitors won't harm anything, I'm fine. I guess I just have to play around and see what works best.

>> No.1532235

>>1532181

Make sure to actually use pin 7 in that diagram for sync and NOT comp. video.

If you use comp. video for sync, that's what causes RGB jailbars. Most prebuilt cables use comp video for sync unless it's marked "raw boosted sync".

>> No.1532269

>>1532235
Ok, thanks.
Haven't had any jailbars with sync over composite video yet, but I always try to use composite sync (although I have a sync stripper).

I just installed a RGB amp into my Core Grafx II and swapped the socket with a 8 pin mini din. I automatically get sync over composite video from the pcb. I could grab composite sync from the ext connector, but i have absolutely no clue, how i would feed that into the 8 pin mini din socket. Except maybe if I cut off the metal pin and solder on its side/top. But that already was a pain in the ass with the R, G, B pins. :s

>> No.1532482

>>1532269
>sync stripper

You're good then, don't worry about it.

>> No.1533029

>>1521552
in case this guy is still there.

One of my saturns did have a power supply that matches this description and uses a 5fwj2czm. The power supply in question is a Yamaha 35M10U. If you have the same power supply, the 3-prong ic on the back is a Sanken C4418, aka Sanken 2SC4418, it is a NPN transistor/regulator.

Google says the equivalent is a NTE2337. Of course you should still check the datasheets.

>> No.1533118

>>1532074
They're not hard to find

Just google how to play back ups on Wii from a hard drive. Look up soft modding a Wii

>> No.1533123

>>1533029
Oh nice. Thank you for the information

>> No.1533138

>>1532029
Bumping.

>> No.1533257

>>1533123
>>1533029
Yeah, the C4418 sounds familiar

>> No.1533890

i grabbed a cheap saturn off fagbay last week.

it wouldn't read discs enough to spin them.

tweaked the pot, it'll start reading them, spin up discs (both saturn games and audio cds) but ultimately end up throwing a 'empty drive' at me.

it's a US model 1 with the psu/switches on the top half of the case.


anyone know of any other tweaks or tips to get this beast reading?

source of decent laser replacements? ebay only shows 3 listings at around US$30 each

thanks /vr/os

>> No.1534223

>>1532104
Pls respond

>> No.1535453

>>1534223
Pretty sure you can do some sort of RCA mod for it

>> No.1535681
File: 26 KB, 587x255, boss coleco.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1535681

>>1534223
>>1535453

>> No.1535686

>>1535681
Awww shit man

That's pretty good

>> No.1535725

>>1535686

The GPU in the Colecovision natively outputs YPbPr. You can build an encoder/amp for any format you want based off that signal.

>> No.1535730
File: 58 KB, 641x635, 1368639629091.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1535730

>>1535725
Old tech amazes me some times

>> No.1535876
File: 2.67 MB, 4128x2322, 93b948af-6402-44f3-9adb-2302689d0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1535876

So I have an NES that im trying to repair, and I got it working, (just needed to clean the 72pin and its PCB contacts, although it needs to be replaced) except that its generating noise on the screen. Does anybody have suggestions on trouble shooting this?

>> No.1535887

>>1535876
You using RCA or Coaxial?

I find this is usually caused by the RCA jacks having some tarnishing on them and not making a good ground contact. A good scrub with some #0000 usually clears it up to a point where it isn't a problem

>> No.1535892

>>1535887
#0000 Steel wool

>> No.1535912

What's the best Sega Genesis Model 1 S-Video mod around?

>> No.1535968

>>1535887
I was using RCA, thanks for the tip! I'll give it a try, I'll give coaxial a go too and see if that helps.

>> No.1536004

>>1535968
Well, RCA is the best way to hook a NES up

Just that the NES has RCA ports for BOTH hook ups

>> No.1537039

>>1536004
I meant I was going to hook it up to coax just to verify it was a problem with the RCA output, (I dont have steel wool right now) not as an permanent thing.

>> No.1537218

>>1535725

...Then why would they downgrade the signal to RF? I know that component video wasn't a thing back then, but why?

>> No.1537557
File: 132 KB, 1280x960, CAM00281.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537557

I bought this GBA-SP101 and a Kiwi Colored GBC today both for 30$ at a local swapmeet, not too bad if you ask me.
The GBA-SP however has a problem with the audio. It randomly fluctuates or goes mute and then comes back. The sound quality isn't bad at all, but comes and goes.
I was thinking of changing the shell (since I happen to have this replacement green one even though I hate how it feels.)
Can the audio problems be fixed easily? What could be wrong with it?

>> No.1537597

GBA's not /vr/

>> No.1537635

>>1537597
Sorry, but I don't really know any other places to discuss this at. I'm a huge Gameboy fan you see, and I happen to love all variations of it.

>> No.1537659

>>1537635
Yep, it's a dumb problem for this board to have, but alas, them's the rules.

If it were up to me, GBA, WonderSwan Color, SwanCrystal, PS2, GCN, and Xbox would all qualify for /vr/. And Windows games would be eligible by DirectX version instead of year, probably cut off at pre-9.0 or something.

>> No.1537712
File: 1.34 MB, 2048x1536, 1367103920718.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537712

>>1537659
Nonetheless, I will wait for a reply, and then speak of it no more.
If the mods have a problem, they may take down my comment.

>> No.1537772
File: 2.08 MB, 2448x3264, 2014-04-12 04.08.05.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1537772

>>1537597
But gba and sp is backwards compatible with gb+c games, micro and DSes too if you count flash cards and even 3ds with virtual console.

>> No.1537883

>>1537772
Slippery slope.

"/vr/" has to retain some semblance of meaning. We don't need two /v/ boards.

Maybe there should be a /vt/ board for gamer technology, leaving /vr/ for actual retro games.

>> No.1537905

>>1537712
Holy fuck I want that green Game Boy Micro

>> No.1537936

>>1537039
Alright.

Well, usually if one RCA port has tarnishing on the grounding (Outside of the jack) the others has it too.

>> No.1538063
File: 13 KB, 500x500, 31spKSuwUjL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1538063

>>1537218
Because the only connection that a TV was guaranteed to have back in 1982 was RF, which in the United States would either be connected by Twin-Lead or F Connector. I don't recall even having a TV that had composite until the mid-90's

>> No.1538116

>>1538063
Me too, I bought my first TV with S-video in 1991. But composite became common in the mid-'80s and S-video became somewhat more common in the mid-'90s and very common by 2000.

>> No.1539723

I'm adding some LEDs my console. What strength resistor should I use so my console doesn't double as a fucking flashlight?

>> No.1539935

>>1538063

I know that, but then why even bother to make it YPbPr?

>> No.1540458

>>1539723
Depends

There's an LED calculator out there that suggests resistors

>> No.1541404

Hey guys, when I lean my snes cart back, the screen will go black or glitch out. Is this normal in an snes? Or should the cartridge not be able to move back and forth, or should it not be reacting this way?

>> No.1541435

>>1541404
Clean both slot and ALL cartridges you have and it will not happen anymore.

>> No.1541593

>>1541404
It's normal. Don't touch the cart when there's a game on.

>> No.1541659

>>1541593
Are you sure? It's just naturally a little wobbly in the slot, but some games don't flip out when they tilt. Why is this?

>> No.1541676

>>1539935
It is very likely just coincidental, in that the gpu handles colours like that because it is more efficient.

The C64 also did s-video before s-video existed, simply because its monitor output was an almost identical luma+chroma signal.

>> No.1541930

Why does the wikia has pages like this? http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Christian_Weiss_Youtube

>> No.1541975

>>1541930
It's spam.
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php?title=Special:RecentChanges&limit=500&days=30

>> No.1541979

>>1541975
Looks like there's a lot of work for the Wiki mod

>> No.1542021

>>1541659
When you move the cart in the slot, there's a chance you'll be breaking the contact between the game and the system. The dirtier the contacts of the game and system are, the more likely it will occur.

>> No.1542612

Both of them on my DS lite won't work. Where to buy replacement buttons?? I'm thinking of getting a couple of them on my B-day.

>> No.1542629

>>1542612
ask /v/ or call mr. google on your rotary phone

>> No.1542648

>>1542612
You can usually find them on ebay in the replacement parts section of the video games category.

>> No.1542696

>>1542612
They're known as Tactile switches

>> No.1543067

>>1541659
>>1542021
I've always had issues with SNES's cartridge slots allowing a lot of play with the carts. I usually use a coin to steady the cart.

>> No.1543069

>>1543067
get the official SNES cleaning kit and clean the pins of the games

>> No.1543071

My 3ds xl is WAY too wobbly, help?

>> No.1543085

>>1543069
It has nothing to do with the pins. The slot for the SNES cart to go in is physically bigger than the carts and allows a lot of play. My Super Famicom doesn't have that problem.

>> No.1543091

>>1543085
Mine has it too and I cleaned it and it works even if I jiggle it

>> No.1543094

>>1543071
Wobbly how?

>> No.1543096

>>1543091
Good for you. I also clean my SNES and cartridges pins with one of those old cleaning kits. It doesn't help the problem. Using the coin to eliminate the wobble does.

>> No.1543109

>>1543071
It's also WAY too off-topic for /vr/.

>> No.1543119

>>1543094
I'll be laying in bed and the screen will flip in an uncomfortable position. I'm on a desk and it'll feel weird open, as if there was much more for it to open or something.

>> No.1543123

>>1543096
you might have to use something a bit more aggressive to clean older games.

If there's tarnish on the pins a light rub with an eraser or super fine steel wool #0000 can polish them up

>> No.1543126

>>1543109
Oh dang, i thought i was in /vg/!

But it sort of counts right? since it plays retro games.

>> No.1543141

>>1543126
That would mean all modern consoles and all modern PCs are /vr/.

>> No.1543454
File: 322 KB, 3000x2250, DSCN0448.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1543454

So, I just thoroughly cleaned all of my nes games, and replaced the 72 pin connector, but I am still getting this vertical strip of nastiness. This was also an issue with the original 72 pin connector. Any suggestions?

>> No.1543569

>Replacement N64 Joysticks
Anyone have any especially good experience with them? The one that was pictured above was allegedly a little more sensitive than the original vanilla.

>> No.1543634

>>1543454
Did you check the solder points around the board?

>> No.1543641

>>1543569
They don't register well, but if you don't want to restore an older one, they're a passable alternative.

>> No.1543672

>>1543634
bout to go to bed. will have to check in the morning. anything in particular i should look for when taking it apart again? should i clean the entire PCB?

>> No.1543680

>>1543641
Bummer, are they all roughly the same or is this gamecube-ish just less rough on the thumb?

>> No.1543696

>>1543672

Problematic solder joints are usually pretty dull-looking.

I've never personally had an NES with those issues, but where I would look first is traces connecting the cart slot, and around the video out.

>> No.1543704

>>1543696
awesome. i'll give it a look tomorrow. tyvm. this is my original nes from when i was a kid. sad to see it not working exactly 100%

>> No.1543707

>>1543680
The gamecube style sticks are popular because they don't have the wear issues original sticks had.

Their issue is that they skip values on the axis, which makes them feel much too sensitive, and can make them behave oddly when making quick motions.

I hear you can connect an actual gamecube stick in somehow, but I've never read up on how to go about that.

>> No.1543712

>>1543707
Gotcha, I've also seen a few reproductions of the original stick, does that solve the value skip problem or does it introduce something else?

I've never thought about attempting to restore it, what would I even need? Something to replace the eroded plastic?

>> No.1543721

>>1543712
I don't think reproductions of the original type have the issue. If you do get one of those, you definitely want to lubricate them if they aren't already. That's why the original sticks wore down so badly.

As for restoring, this video is my go-to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEJmSQjONRg&index=2&list=PLikljShOe2aF7iX4v2duDhZS7tRz4p3JL

>> No.1543734

>>1543721
Cheers mate

>> No.1544257

>>1533890
>anyone know of any other tweaks or tips to get this saturn reading?
>source of decent laser replacements?

bumpiepoo

>> No.1544414

I have a few questions:

1- There's something strange about my Snes. A few games won't run at all when they used to and others behave strangely. Yet the games works perfectly in other Snes
- Illusion of Gaia and Terranigma (Repro and original with a PAR MK3) won't boot
- Seiken Densetsu 3 boot, intro works but I can't get to the main menu, the game resets

I heard it might be my pin connector, some pins are broken or something and these games need those. I checked I have a metal pin connector, so I should be able to change it easily, but I want to know if it's truly the problem before trying to fix it.

2- My Sega Master System Light Phaser sometimes reset the game when I use it ... That's lame, I really want to play Safari Hunt properly. Anyways to fix that?

Also, the SMS D-pad sucks, it just plain sucks. Any NES controller to SMS adaptor around? Would be a nice plus if the start button would work on it too, I know it's possible to mod on a SMS controller, so.

Thanks

>> No.1544440

>>1544414
>PAR MK3
Protip: Don't use that with games that uses coprocessors, especially SA-1.
And if you do then don't turn the cheat function on.

>I heard it might be my pin connector
I'm sure it is.
>some pins are broken or something and these games need those.
Nope, the games you listed don't use coprocessors.

>I checked I have a metal pin connector, so I should be able to change it easily, but I want to know if it's truly the problem before trying to fix it.
Can you swap it with the other SNES?

>> No.1544469

>>1544440
>Protip: Don't use that with games that uses coprocessors, especially SA-1.
No choice if I want to run Terranigma and want to save (NA Snes). Not using it for anything else however.

>And if you do then don't turn the cheat function on
Any reason why? Also the games stopped working before I got my PAR3 MK3

>Can you swap it with the other SNES?
I'm afraid I simply can't convince my friends to open up their snes. Guess I could just buy another pin connector, they're not super expensive

One last thing, what's the cheapest place that sells cart batteries with a holder and metal pin (for NES and Snes) so it's much easily to replace and has cheap canadian shipping?

thanks

>> No.1544627

>>1544469
>No choice if I want to run Terranigma and want to save (NA Snes).
I don't see a problem with that. Just like i said, that game don't have a coprocessor. But i would recommend you to run that game in 50hz (by modding your SNES) because it's PAL.

>Any reason why?
It crashes the game and might erase the saved data. (on SA-1 it always does)
I also observed slight graphical glitches on Toy Story, which only has ROM and nothing else.

>> No.1544713

I'd like to play my GC games with the best possible graphics, is it better to use a Wii with components or a GC with RGB (component for this one is over pricey!)?

>> No.1544736

>>1544713
Wii is a more reasonable option

>> No.1544745

>>1544736
Thanks anon, so 480p makes a huge difference with 480i, right?

>> No.1544778

>>1544745
The difference between 480i and 480p will be most obvious in things with lots of motion in them like a sports title. The main difference you'll notice on component is that everything is considerably sharper, there will be a huge difference in clarity compared to composite

>> No.1544805

>>1544778
Thanks

>> No.1544924

>>1544713
>GCN
>Wii
>/vr/ - Retro Games
>non-repair related
>Game Tech Wiki Repair Thread

>>1544736
>not knowing about the WIi's blurry component output of GCN games compared to an actual DOL-001

come on guys, step it up

>> No.1545469

>>1544257
Adjust the laser right. If that's actually impossible buy another Saturn

>> No.1545520

>>1544924

Have fun spending 125+ for that slightly less-blurred image. I'll stick to my Gamecube.

>> No.1545527

>>1545520

Wii. I mean Wii. WHATEVER UR MOM

>> No.1545859
File: 497 KB, 350x263, 1373105741990.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1545859

>>1543721
I have to say I've tried what he did and I've had mixed results

Usually an N64 stick going bad isn't because the half bowl the stick sits in wears down. Its because the two arms the stick sits in wears down

I'd love it if some one reproduced those two little arms.

I've been thinking of contacting a plastic molding company and putting together "N64 control stick restoration kits"

>> No.1545876

gam boy aint work right, has lines on screen help heat thing isnt work

>> No.1546854

>>1545469
already tweaked with the laser pot as well as the mainboard ones, i got it to spin up to speed but ultimately fails to read and gives me 'drive empty'

thanks for the reply though, maybe i'll just sell it as is, sadface.

>> No.1546869

>>1545876
so ur with ur honey and yur making out wen phone rigns. u anser it n the vioice is 'wut r u doin with my gam boy?' u tell ur gurl n she say 'my gam boy aint work right'
THEN WHO WAS PHONE?

>> No.1546929

Some copies of my SNES games don't respond to any of my controllers. Eventually through massive blowing (I know, I know) I got them to work except for Donkey Kong Country 1. Is it a problem with the battery, or do I just need to tinker with the bottom somewhat?

>> No.1546952

>>1546929
Readjust the connectors, clean the game properly, change the battery.

>> No.1546979

>>1544627
Not him, but PAL Terranigma works perfectly in 60Hz without any modifications to the ROM. The localizers didn't correct anything for PAL so playing it in NTSC actually fixes some of the synchronization issues with the music.

>> No.1546984

>>1546979
>emulation

>> No.1547668
File: 2.10 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_0092.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1547668

My uncle gave me a broken Virtual Boy I opened the thing up and the displays were detached from the ribbon cables. How fucked is this thing?

>> No.1547686

So my NES system has never been opened once in the 25 years I've owned it. It still works, but it's getting to the point that I need the cartridge aligned perfectly to a micron to get a game to play. Now I'm hoping and assuming that it's just a case of something being dirty or loose. I'm getting ready to open it up soon, what should I be looking for?

>> No.1547737

>>1547668
>How fucked is this thing?
3/10
Can be soldered back with flux.
It's not going to be easy.

>> No.1547762

>>1547686
dead cockroaches and spiders

>> No.1547802

>>1547668
>How fucked is this thing?
0/10
Just reheat the adhesive on the cable and reattach to the displays
It's going to be very easy

For extra credit clean the contacts and apply new adhesive so the fix lasts longer

>> No.1547863

>>1547802
Use a hair dryer or mail it to me and I'll use my heat gun.

>> No.1548015

>>1547802
is there a nice picture somewhere detailing where exactly the contacts touch the lens.

>> No.1548404

>>1544414

Contact issues with the cartridge tend to be more immediate and pervasive than what you're describing.

If it's unable to start up a cart or suddenly resets at specific points, and you've ruled out the cart itself, it's probably a power issue. Either not enough or not stable enough because of some failure in the supply or the regulator/filters.

>> No.1548604

>>1548015
Not sure. I figure it's so simple no one ever bothered. Line up the left most contact on the cable with the left most contact on the board and viola all the others line up perfectly.

>> No.1549198

My scart to YPRPB just burnt out idk why a few weeks ago and I don't remember how to fix it. The power supply works but when I connect it to the Scart to Component, is doesn't work? Wat do???

>> No.1549783

>>1549198
>Wat do???
Learn to use your words to describe your problems so people can help you.

>> No.1549816

>>1549198
Sorry wasn't clear enough. My Scart to Component thing isn't working, whenever I connect it to the AC adapter, and I have it all my cables connected, the screen is blank. The light indicating that it is powered on doesn't light up. I remember someone in the previous BST thread telling me what to do but I didn't screencap it.

>> No.1550089

>>1549816
If the light indicating power doesn't light up it's probably the power supply. However you say it works. How did you determine that it works?

>> No.1550164

>>1550089
Well the AC adapter does but not the Scart to YUV itself. Sorry to confuse everyone.

>> No.1551140

Is there any way to use sd-cards of hard drives to play games on the GC and bypass the DVD player? Thanks

>> No.1551214

>>1549783
how do you like this site? i see it's your first time here.

>> No.1551684

>>1551214
You're in a repair thread that depends on clear descriptions. If you type like the average /b/ retard here, it's not likely you'll get an appropriate response.

>> No.1551941
File: 1.01 MB, 2688x1520, IMAG0669.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1551941

>>1550164
Back again, well even worse news the L7805cv on my Scart to YUV just fell off. Now would I be able to buy a new one and use some soldering iron to put the new one in there. I will post pics to see if the repair is possible.

>> No.1551946
File: 832 KB, 1520x2688, IMAG0670.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1551946

>>1551941
The l7805CV chip that fell off.

>> No.1551949
File: 98 KB, 894x360, BETTER CLOSE UP.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1551949

>>1551941
A close up

>> No.1551958

>>1551949
>>1551946
>>1551941
Re-soldering it shouldn't be a problem.

>> No.1551962

>>1551958
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-L7805CV-L7805-7805-Volt-Regulator-5V-1-5A-/400653734734?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d48d2d34e would this do and this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-60w-Soldering-Iron-Pencil-Tip-110V-Electric-Tool-Gun-by-Best-/141214860528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e10fc4f0?
Also would I need to use a multimeter? just curious?? and thanks a lot for the help.

>> No.1551989

>>1537597
>>1537635
>>1537659
>>1537772
>>1537883
For repair threads, I see no issue in posting gba's. Especially SP's since they're the #1 way for most people to play gameboy games, advance or not.
Since day 1 its been ok to talk about the gba. As long as you weren't talking about gba games, but rather using the system for playing gb/c.

>> No.1552007

>>1551962
You can resolder the old one back.

>>1551989
GBA ain't /vr/

>> No.1552084

>>1552007
I'd rather get a new one because the old one died on ne as well. Also its cheap about 1-3 bucks on ebay and the soldering iron is like 10-15 for a basic one. It seems like a good way to git gud at soldering

>> No.1552086

>>1552007
Neither are emulators, CRT's, wii's, usb controllers, or cellphones/emulation devices.

>> No.1552092

>>1552086
I'll fight for CRTs with you, but I agree with the rest.

>> No.1552205

>>1552086
Great, so the board is open to discussion about everything under the sun except non-retro software.

Farewell and good night /vr/, hello no-modern-games-allowed-/v/.

>> No.1552357

Guy who runs the wiki here. My two cents on discussing non-retro repairs in these threads:

People have asked about modern console repairs since these threads started. It doesn't come up too often, and the discussion hasn't leaked out of the threads into the rest of the board. I agree in general that GBA and newer consoles should not be discussed on /vr/, but since these threads are the longest-lived repair threads on 4chan, I think an exception should be made as long as non-retro consoles don't dominate the thread.

However, I'm sure many of you don't see things my way, so I offer a compromise: use the message board on the site for modern consoles. Since the message board hasn't yet gotten much attention, go ahead and mention in this thread that you've asked a question about a modern console on the message board so people will know to look there.

No registration is required for the message board. It can be found here:
http://forums.gametechwiki.com/

>> No.1553254
File: 78 KB, 512x680, Maid71.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1553254

Not exactly a repair question, but something in the territory.
Lots of electronics these days have that rubbery texture grippy surface. Laptops, cameras, mice, game pads, etc. I don't know if it's somehow connected to the environment here (Hawaii) but those surfaces always turn sticky. If it's not already like that when I find it at a thrift, it'll always turn that way when while in storage. Is there a way to reverse/neutralize this if not remove the coating completely?
I have a Thinkpad that's sticky all over the lid, various mice I can't use because it feels like a ball of glue, some PC game pads that I wound up tossing (re-donated to Goodwill really.)

>> No.1553281

>>1552357
You might want to start removing all the shit spam articles away.

>> No.1553324

>>1553254
There isn't much you can do about that. Warm, salty sea air just isn't very good for a lot of materials.

>> No.1554425

>>1552086
>CRT's not /vr/
wut?

>>1552205
I understand how hypocritical this sounds but it's a slippery slope and the line has to be drawn somewhere. Just imagine how good /vr/ would be it it had been drawn before this place became infested with emulation fanbois?

>> No.1555241

Out of curiosity, and this is probably something you all have already looked at, but were you aware of iFixit and their video game console repair articles? I thought it might be a nice way for you guys to expand your knowledge base if you hadn't already.

http://www.ifixit.com/Device/Game_Console

>> No.1555605

>>1533890
I heard that the Saturn and the 3DO actually use the exact same laser, so in theory, you should be good to use the 3DO laser in your Saturn (just pull off the sleigh on your old laser and clip it onto your new laser)

>> No.1555614

I fucked up my Svideo mod on my model 1 genesis and now there's no audio coming from the headphone jack (think that the live power jack ran over some contact points). One of the caps has ruptured, but not in the typical way (inwards rather than bulging). Could it be I ruined a cap, and not an important chip on the Genesis mobo?

>> No.1556553

The wiki may go down intermittently today while I update passwords and address the spam problem. It shouldn't be for more than a few minutes, but MySQL is not my friend.

>> No.1559210
File: 1.84 MB, 2592x1936, 7800-boot-screen.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1559210

I'm having some issues with an Atari 7800. It will not boot any 2600 games, all of which have been tested on a 2600. 7800 games do boot, but most of the games will reset randomly. Pole Position 2 resets after a few minutes, but Ms. Pac Man resets about a second after leaving the title screen. Centipede is the only game I have that I haven't seen reset yet. Also, is this what the 7800 boot screen is supposed to look like? The bar changes colors, but the word "ATARI" is difficult to read. None of the games have graphical glitches.

I've read that the reason it won't boot 2600 games could be that some of the pins on the cartridge slot are shorted to ground. I haven't had a chance to check that yet, but could that also explain the resetting? I've thoroughly cleaned the games and slot btw.

>> No.1561060
File: 59 KB, 290x350, Xenon_2_Megablast_Amiga_cover.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1561060

Sup wiki thread, I'm hoping you guys can help me out.

I have pic related for the PAL Mega Drive and I'm looking to play it on my US Model 1 Genesis. What mods do I need to do to get this to work? Most of the guides I find are for PAL or NTSC systems to play NTSC-J games.

My PVM can do 50/60hz if need be.

>> No.1561573

>>1561060
bumping for answer

>> No.1561907

>>1561573
>>1561060
It should be more or less same method.

>> No.1562529

>>1561060
Any mod that involves a switch will work either way because, well, it's a switch.

>> No.1563920

Are there any good guides on how to replace the capacitors on a Model 1 Sega Genesis? I'm worried the one I bought may have capacitor issues.

>> No.1563937

>>1563920
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/List_of_service_manuals

They have some service manuals up on the Wiki.

I know they have lists of caps in there but I'd still take a look at each cap to make sure.

Also, keep in mind the ones they list and the ones you might have on your board might differ in microfarads but the voltage will be the same.

You should replace caps with equal or greater then what is there. Voltage has to be exact

>> No.1563949

My copies of Pokemon Silver and Red had their batteries die afew months ago and it deletes the save data I make after a day. How should I replace them? Should I ask a professional at a shop/online or do it myself? If the latter, how do I go about it?

>> No.1563968

>>1563949
The only sure way to replace a game boy battery is to solder it in place. Most of these people you see taping the new batteries in are amateurs and their fix won't last long

You can use any 3V coin battery such as a 2032 but the game boy uses a CR2025. You're also going to need a game bit to open the cartage.

And finding a professional isn't going to be an option really. It would be best to do it yourself after some practice with a solder iron

Here's a link to the type of battery you need

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Battery-Pokemon-Game-Boy-Color/dp/B004IXQISS

I'd get you a better deal but it seems that the site I use is out

>> No.1563983
File: 65 KB, 720x720, 1376792034868.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1563983

>>1468896
Can someone tell me how to properly set up epsxe to play FF9 the best way possible? So many graphic options avaible that im getting headaches

>> No.1564023

>>1563983
This thread is about hardware, not emulators. Go post your question over on the emulation general over on /vg/.

>> No.1564027

>>1561060
>>1561573

pls respond

>> No.1564061

>>1563949
Here's a video tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=amFyuGyFOrA

For my question: how do I measure the resistance of the laser potentiometer of a Dreamcast? I tried doing it with a multimeter, but I just kept getting random, fluctuating ranges. Also, it's my first time using a multimeter, so I might be making a basic mistake.

More in general, I've read that the Dreamcast's problem of not reading discs, while usually caused by a malfunctioning laser, can also be caused by a low voltage or the spindle motor. How would I be able to tell if either of these was the problem? When I put a disc in the system, it spins for a couple seconds, then stops.

>> No.1564148

>>1563937
>You should replace caps with equal or greater then what is there. Voltage has to be exact

I think you swapped that...

Micro Farad (μF) should be equal or greater within 10% of required value.
Voltage can be higher, why do you think it has to be exact? (Just curious)

If it calls for a cap with 16v you can throw in a 250v no problem, other than physical space issues...

I work for an electronics company and build boards all day long...

>> No.1564183

>>1564148
This guy is right about capacitors. Another anon soldering a board here.

The μF is how 'deep' it is, so to speak. It dictates what sort of action the capacitor has.

Think of the V rating like a safety rating. It's how much voltage it can withstand without it doing something bad. If the board has a 10uF 10V capacitor, you can replace it with a 10uF 16V or 10uF 25V capacitor of the same type no problem. You probably 'shouldn't' replace one capacitor with another of a different type though. Especially don't put an electrolytic in place of a non-electrolytic.

Get your polarities correct. Take pictures of the board before you do anything.

>> No.1565552
File: 83 KB, 169x119, 1388726188334.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1565552

>>1564148
>>1564183
Yeah did get that backwards. I typed it that up while tired.

And I always try to stay at the value that's listed on the cap I take out, for Micro Farads. The voltage can be at or above the one listed.

That's the general rule I follow.

I know you can get away with bigger caps but then if there's still stability issues it calls into question if it might be the caps still. With precise values you can rule them out so to speak when trouble shooting.

>> No.1565676
File: 1.16 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215956.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1565676

>>1559210
my 7800 did something simmilar. Turns out that some of the pins (on the system that is) were touching eachother, and some were too loose. Just make sure that they're all close enough to make contact with the cartridge, without making contact to themselves.
The outside pins are probably the culprit, only 7800 games use them, therefore 7800 games will work, but not 2600.
Pic related, the kind of screen I was getting most of the time. That, or black with one or two [thin] vertical bars.

>> No.1567438

Can somebody link me to a good NES audio mod? Preferably one they've actually used and know to work well. Thanks.

>> No.1567510

>>1563968
>amateurs
"professional" GB cart battery replacer detected.
How's that profession working out for you?

>> No.1567665

>>1567510

Not that guy, but since when does taping an electronic component down sound like anything but amateurish. The guy clearly knows what he's talking about and is trying to give helpful advice.

>> No.1567841

>>1567665
Since before you were born. Open any retro thing and you'll find tape and jumpers that your grandpapa would be proud of. If the guy seriously knew what he was talking about he'd suggest a low profile battery holder.

>> No.1567906

>>1567841

When I first opened my Atari 2600 for an S-Video mod I found an old, small piece of paper with a serial number printed on it, taped to the RF shield with a piece of scotch tape.

Apparently this is just what they did at the factory 36 years ago.

>> No.1567949

>>1567841
Legacy doesn't make an amateur approach okay.
If you're incapable of soldering, you're less than amateur and shouldn't be replacing components that come soldered standard.

>> No.1568118
File: 1.24 MB, 2048x1536, IMG_20140424_052008.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1568118

I've done an AV mod on my NES Toploader. I lifted Pin 21 on the PPU, and while the video quality is much better overall, I'm still getting the vertical line interference.

My apologies for the crappy picture. My camera doesn't seem to like taking pictures of my Sony PVM.

>> No.1568162

>>1567906

I wouldn't site Atari as a model example of anything.

>> No.1568189
File: 1.71 MB, 220x124, 1381373098744.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1568189

>>1567841
>Gameboy game
>Battery holder

You know there's a space restriction right? Battery holders barely fit in NES and SNES games.

And if you do manage to get a holder in there, its going to take some major modifications and surgery to get it in there. Even then it's going to be a super tight fit.

>> No.1568193

>>1568118

my vertical line interference was caused by a leaking capacitor, usually the largest one on the mainboard. once i soldered on a replacement my issue went away entirely, even with rf cables.

>> No.1568315 [DELETED] 

>>1567949
Thanks for your professional opinion. I've filed it in to appropriate trash can.

>>1568189
>misquoting
>arguing with misquote
very professional

>> No.1568386 [DELETED] 
File: 219 B, 26x26, cactrot.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1568386

>>1568315

Confirmed for troll.

These guys are trying to give good advice. Piss off. If you're going to do something it should be done correctly or you shouldn't bother doing it. If you want to do shit half-assed go ahead. I'm new to modding and I appreciate that people are taking the time to properly explain things. I'm not looking for cheap/easy methods to mod/ repair my stuff and for the most part these threads deliver.

>> No.1568553

>>1568189
You can fit a CR1220 in battery holder in a GBC game, it just has to be moved up into the bulged out section of the game and connected to the original pads with a bit of wire.

Does anyone remember seeing a NES 72pin repair technique that involved drilling out the sides of the connector with a drill press, threading a piece of fishing line over the top pins, and tightening it down? I saw this only once, on a YouTube video made from someone's old VHS tape, and I can't find it again.

>> No.1569125

The wiki should now be protected from spam. The price is that anonymous users and users who have not confirmed an email address will have to complete a captcha to create and edit pages.

>> No.1569234
File: 1.49 MB, 3264x1836, 2014-04-24_17-05-21_380.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1569234

This is the cap that goes on the end of the SNES LED. Anybody know where I can find replacements?

>> No.1569421

how do i open my n64 without buying the gamebit screwdriver, ive tried the pen method, but its not really working

>> No.1569537 [DELETED] 

>>1568386
>trying
Exactly

>> No.1569628

So I have a SMW cart, and occasionally all my saves get wiped. So I got a All Stars cart (you know, the one with Super Mario World) and I got pretty far, and then one day, my saves got wiped there too. Is it something with my SNES? I don't know if this is an issue with every SNES but when I tilt the cart back, it'll glitch out which I mentioned once here. Is there something wrong with the connectors or is it just the carts? (Also, do all SNES have that cart tilt problem or just certain ones?)

>> No.1569638

>>1569234
i'd just order 2 next time you order a nutcup

>> No.1569660

>>1569628
It sounds like the SNES has dirty pins. I forget what one handles saves but I'd get a SNES cleaning kit and clean the slot.

It wouldn't hurt to clean the pins of the games in question with some 70% alcohol

>> No.1569667

>>1569660
Yeah, I usually clean my games first thing with alcohol. How do I clean the SNES Pins? Can I replace them?

>> No.1569668

>>1569421
A game bit is really going to be the sure fire way to open an N64. Just be sure to get one that will last. Look at reviews on Amazon before buying

>> No.1569694
File: 30 KB, 800x600, Picture293.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1569694

>>1569667
Ehh, replacing SNES slots is a hit or miss.

Some SNES models have replaceable pin slots. They pop right off the board. Later models are attached directly to the board.

You'd be better off ordering a cleaning kit and doing that first before going and opening up the SNES.

>> No.1569703

>>1569694
Where can I get one that isn't ebay? They're kind of pricey and I'm not even sure if they're used or not...

>> No.1569716

>>1569703
That I don't know

I personally got a few at an auction when I bough out a used game store.

Usually only one side of the two sided cleaner is used. You can see it on the left in that picture

>> No.1569737

>>1569716
Are you in New Jersey?

>> No.1569748

>>1569737
No I'm not.

Sorry.

And I was thinking NES cleaning kits. Sorry about that. I only have one SNES cleaning kit right now and I used that one.

>> No.1569821

>>1569638

Wtf is a nutcup?

>> No.1569985

>>1568193
IIRC, the largest one is a part of the power section of the board and usually is the first one to fail. None of the capacitors look like they're bulged or leaking on mine. I know they can fail without any visible indicator, so I'll probably go with replacing all the capacitors, though I think I'll wait until the AV Famicom I ordered comes in just to do a comparison.

>> No.1571197

>>1569421
I'd recommend getting a gamebit. I bought this one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/

Has worked fine for me for opening and cleaning out SNES and N64 systems and carts. I've had it for a few months and have used it often, and its been holding up.

>> No.1571208

>>1569703
I'd recommend using a credit card with a microfiber wrapped on it and just inserting it into the slot, you might have to give it a couple passes. I did that recently with a used SNES mini I bought and a lot of nasty stuff came out. I also did another pass through with that same method using an alcohol moist (lightly though) microfiber with credit card. After that I was able to play all my games without issue.

>> No.1571390
File: 8 KB, 173x291, default.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571390

I've got may be stupid question:
is it possible to put GBA SP internals in case of Gameboy color? I found some similar mods on internet but they a little too difficult. Or where i can accurate dimensions of their cases to figure it out by myself.

>> No.1571403
File: 6 KB, 300x150, bolt-nut-caps-18032-2296993.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571403

>>1569821
It's those rounded covers you put on a nut

>> No.1571413

>>1571390

Probably, but button placement/action in the housing would be the real issue.

>> No.1571481

>>1571403
>Rounded covers you put on your nuts

T-that's lewd, anon.

>> No.1571784
File: 2.50 MB, 320x180, GIF_20140425_140223.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1571784

My Dreamcast started this problem recently. When you turn it on with a disc it'll start to spin the disc them stop and go to the main menu. Sometimes if I open the lid up and spin it, then close the lid, it MIGHT start the game but it's not consistent. Is my laser or motor giving out? I'd hate for it to be dying. Pic related is my Dreamcast this morning.

>> No.1572025

>>1468896
We just hit the bump limit, so...

NEW THREAD: >>1572019