/vr/ - Retro Games

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Retro Consoles Wiki - Thread 7 Anonymous Mon Sep 30 18:27:01 2013 No.1109745 [DELETED]

Repair/mod discussion goes here!

http://retroconsoles.wikia.com

What it is: A wiki for repairs, mods, and technical info for all consoles, handhelds, and old computers.

What we need:
- Motherboard pics along with capacitor/resistor/IC lists
- Repair and mod guides or links to relevant pages
- General technical info
- More contributors!

Anonymous Tue Oct 1 17:37:22 2013 No.1111574
File: 92 KB, 598x602, mm3pu22-SCPH-750x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Well, now I've ruined two PS1's. Has anyone here successfully installed an MM3 modchip? Where did you position the chip? What kind of wire did you use?

The first Playstation was a 9001, which I destroyed by desoldering a surface-mount capacitor. The other one was a 7501, which was going fine until I got to solder point 8 in the pic. It looked like the easiest place to solder so I saved it for last, but it turned out that solder refused to bind to that point, even after I cleaned it. In the process one of the other wires snapped off, taking the solder point with it. Both Playstations still boot, but they both spin discs extemely fast. I'm determined to make this work, though, no matter how many PS1's I break along the way.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 1 22:17:12 2013 No.1112006 >>1111574 Just give up and buy a pre-modded one from Mexico or some other place where piracy was/is rampant, a.k.a. every country that isn't USA.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 2 17:11:15 2013 No.1113703 >>1112006 I may end up doing that. What's a good price for a modded PS1?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 3 23:01:25 2013 No.1116273 >>1111574 Did you put new solder onto that point before trying to attach to it?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 3 23:09:48 2013 No.1116285 >>1111574 I installed two MM3 chips recently. Both times, I stuck the chip itself in the empty area under the eject button (to the right of the controller/MC ports). Use thin-gauge wire.

Anonymous Thu Oct 3 23:33:10 2013 No.1116319

>>1116273
I did, but any solder would slide off with a slight nudge. I actually had a wire attached to it at one point, but it came off when I put the RF shield back on.

>>1116285
That's where I kept the chip, too. The wire I was using did seem a bit thick, but it was the thinnest I could find at Radio Shack. I guess I'll have to look online for a more appropriate gauge.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 3 23:42:02 2013 No.1116336 >>1116319 That's what flux is for

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 5 20:09:34 2013 No.1119962 >>1116336 Really, is that all I need to do in that situation? Apply some flux? I found a 7001 PS1 for $10 today for my third attempt. So to do this properly I just need flux and thin wire? Any other tips?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 5 20:17:36 2013 No.1119972 >>1119962 Flux makes solder stick where it otherwise just rolls off.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 6 22:32:32 2013 No.1122163 >>1119972 This. If you can't get it to stick with some flux, its most likely never going to stick

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 7 22:39:27 2013 No.1123914 Anyone got a parts list on a fat PS1? I need to know the part list for the power brick. I need to replace that voltage regulator and I have no idea what its specs are. OR better yet, how about a PS1 Service manual?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 7 22:51:28 2013 No.1123930 >>1123914 Have you tried looking up the part number? What model PS1 is it?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 8 01:10:56 2013 No.1124117 >>1123930 Its a 7000 series. I think the part is the same on each board though because it has to do with power. The part number at least on the board is Q001. The service manual would tell me the part number, most likely .

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 9 04:10:27 2013 No.1126391 >>1124117 >>1123914 Bumping

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 9 19:49:01 2013 No.1127579 >>1124117 The only technical manual I have is for the Colecovision. I'd also like to find a service manual for the PS1, or any console for that matter.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 9 20:52:25 2013 No.1127676 >>1113703 50ish dollars may be a bit cheaper, may be leagues more expensive

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 9 21:57:19 2013 No.1127808 >>1127579 I have some for some Sega Genesis models 1, 2, and Sega CD model 1/2

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 21:50:31 2013 No.1131248 >>1127808 Do you have links for those, or could you upload them somewhere?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 21:52:02 2013 No.1131252 >>1131248 If you have a free hosting without registration, Ill upload them

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 21:55:22 2013 No.1131260 >>1131252 I can't think of any. Could you just email them to me for now?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:03:51 2013 No.1131271 >>1131260 They're kinda large for e-mail

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:07:22 2013 No.1131281 >>1131271 How big are they? What about something like dropbox?

Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:09:22 2013 No.1131283

>>1131271
>>1131260

Got a site, maybe

Let me know how this works. This is a Gen one Genesis service manual. Its PAL, but also has some NTSC specks in it

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gc6410002f1639c4f999390655303e3b4b8a55bf2d

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gf9004860ea60bff299939065691553c7fa029d1d9

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:11:22 2013 No.1131290 >>1131281 ones 44 MBs or so and ones 35. The other ones are smaller.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:13:22 2013 No.1131295 >>1131283 Sega master system I don't know where the first PDF went http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=ga8352925aa98b1af999390657ff7b516715f0c130

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:15:52 2013 No.1131304 >>1131283 Thanks, that's great. >>1131290 Are those each one file? What if you used WinRAR to split the files into 10MB chunks? Or whatever the maximum attachment size is. Or maybe you could use that fileconvoy site?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:17:52 2013 No.1131314 File: 292 KB, 448x335, thendextersaid.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1131304 >Use a RAR God damn it.... Well, the big ones are already uploaded. Might as well continue with this

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:18:51 2013 No.1131318 >>1131304 >>1131314 Sega Genesis/Mega Drive 2 http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gf79e70209169fda6999390658d3541695aed1b2f5

Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:20:51 2013 No.1131323
File: 92 KB, 500x281, 1379397530814.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1131318
And this site lets me upload multiple files at once

You can tell I never use these

Sega 6 button pad. Sega mouse. Sega tap

http://www.fileconvoy.com/dfl.php?id=gdc9598fe3821a813999390659cc92ab1812a2978e

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:22:21 2013 No.1131330 >>1131323 Thanks for uploading all of those. Where did you find them originally?

Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:24:52 2013 No.1131332

>>1131323
>>1131330

And that's it

I though I had more...

there's a Sega site out there that has most of these on it. I had to do some serous digging for the Genesis 1 manuals.

Let me see if I can't find it.. here it is

http://www.sega-16.com/forum/forum.php?s=c522cc79e726f52ee33f290a788c8e9e

Most came from there, but like I said the Genesis 1 manual came for another site

Service manuals for newer systems are a BITCH to get it seems. Companies tend to recall them before people can make copies.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:30:21 2013 No.1131341 >>1131332 I could have sworn I had a Sega CD 2 manual here some where

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:34:21 2013 No.1131345 >>1131341 >>1131332 Here's a good site that has some more manuals I might have confused the two though..

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 22:40:52 2013 No.1131353 >>1131345 crap, my link didn't work here's the site http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?44343-Sega-Service-Manuals These should be added to the wiki

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 23:04:21 2013 No.1131395 >>1131353 >http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?44343-Sega-Service-Manuals That's a great find. I wonder why it's so much more difficult to find Nintendo service manuals?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 11 23:10:41 2013 No.1131406 >>1131395 Nintendo is notorious for being hard asses and getting stuff back from factories and developers and either locking it away or destroying it after the time has passed for that system. That's why its so rare.

Anonymous Sat Oct 12 13:32:39 2013 No.1131893
File: 473 KB, 911x1303, WP_20131012_006.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I installed a backlight in my gameboy using this tutorial but the LED isnt shining bright enough. any ideas how to make it brighter?

http://www.der-warst.de/warstware/backlight.html

Anonymous Sat Oct 12 13:50:39 2013 No.1131927

>>1131893
It looks like you didn't take off the reflective foil. I did a backlight mod a little while ago but I actually replaced the whole screen with one of these.

http://www.nonelectronics.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=168&zenid=ea5b964dfffa5daaf239db61fc775020

If you do it that way it looks pretty good, be really careful not to snag the ribbon cable when you take off the reflective film.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 12 15:50:35 2013 No.1132125 >>1131927 I took off both back layers including the polarizing film and replaced it with frosted plastic and some parts i stole from a laptop screen.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 12 21:56:46 2013 No.1132660 >>1131893 Wow, what an annoying site

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 12 22:20:19 2013 No.1132679 >>1124117 Correction. Its a 9000 series

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 12 22:25:49 2013 No.1132686 >>1132660 Heh, you weren't kidding. I think I'm gonna throw up.

Anonymous Sun Oct 13 03:18:11 2013 No.1133043
File: 44 KB, 640x427, BacklitGBP1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1131893
I just found out you can use a screen from a DS lite as the backlight, luckily i have a broken one laying around, so i can just use that.

I just need to figure out where to solder it to since all the tutorials are for pockets.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 13 21:04:28 2013 No.1134556 >>1133043 Really? Are they the same size? Or what?

Anonymous Sun Oct 13 21:19:45 2013 No.1134578

>>1134556
They are a bit bigger, but you can either remove the plastic that holds the GB screen or cut down the DS backlight panel.

forums.benheck.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=27481&start=45

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGF6QD10Ad0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCj84qQPXt8

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 14 23:02:17 2013 No.1136851 I replaced a capacitor, fuse and voltage regulator in my famicom and now there is a buzzing noise coming through the TV speakers.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 14 23:18:16 2013 No.1136906 >>1136851 Sounds like a bad solder joints or one of the components is bad Where they all new components?

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 14 23:25:47 2013 No.1136919 >>1136906 Yeah.

Anonymous Tue Oct 15 14:02:14 2013 No.1137820
File: 183 KB, 693x670, Modchip 6-Wire Install PM41a [10X].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1111574

Well damn dude.

I have a PSOne I'm going to chip soon (after a nap probably), and everything seems pretty straightforward, but pin 3 and 6 look IMPOSSIBLE to solder to. Any tips for those?

Also, where should I stick the chip in this little guy?

Anonymous Wed Oct 16 02:38:27 2013 No.1139126
File: 71 KB, 638x465, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1133043
For those who were curious, i found out where to solder the wires.

The resistor is 10k, but the screen seems a little dim so i will have to play around with different values.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 16 05:27:35 2013 No.1139286 >>1109745 Probably nobody know how to repair a super pro fighter Q for snes right ?

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 16 09:05:35 2013 No.1139420 I recently bought an amiga 1200 (without the power supply) could I be of any help for the wiki?

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 16 09:15:34 2013 No.1139428 >>1139420 Photos and specs are always useful.

Noradninja Wed Oct 16 09:38:19 2013 No.1139445

>>1137820
Use two business cards to mask the solder point (put one on each side of the pin you are soldering to). Flux the soldering point and add a bit of solder to it. Let it cool. Reflux, heat to pool solder, and stick the wire in, immediatley removing the iron. Joint will cool and you will have an excellent solder joint with no cold solder cracks. A flux pen is super useful here. get liquid flux if you can, paste kinda sucks and requires more heat (meaning you are more likely to blow a resistor or IC or lift the trace or component off the board). Solder should liquify in about 3 seconds. The less time you have the iron to the part/board, the more likely you won't fuck it up. Good luck.

Anonymous Wed Oct 16 15:27:13 2013 No.1139951
File: 49 KB, 500x291, psone.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1139445

Sounds good.

Another question though: I bought my MM3 chip from Eurasia and this is the diagram they have on their site. I noticed some points are the same and some are different.

Which one should I follow, or does it matter?

Noradninja Wed Oct 16 16:53:08 2013 No.1140095
File: 2.11 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_0851.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1139951

Note your first diagram has the board revision in the lower right. I would look on your unit and verify which PSOne board you have and use that to determine which installation method to use. From what I can tell there are only two revisions, it's not like chipping a Saturn, which, while it has only 2-4 solder points depending on the mod chip you buy, has like 20 revisions of the board spread across like 5 manufacturers with a mix and match of optical drives which also affects which install method you use. I got lucky, vanilla Model 2 32 pin IC with the non Sanyo board. One solder joint on the board (+5v, giant pin on the internal PSU), bridge two points on the modchip with a bit of wire, and plug into optical cable slot, plug optical into chip.

Anonymous Wed Oct 16 17:08:38 2013 No.1140123

>>1140095
>has like 20 revisions of the board spread across like 5 manufacturers

Actually around 30 or so, but the optical drives all work the same way, they just have different pinouts. There are 4 major drive types, with Sanyo drives being alternate parts for the last two types.

The reason why Saturn chipping is "problematic" is because all the known chips suck and were made by people who hardly knew anything about them. Go buy three identical chips from Rob Webb, chances are one of them will have different compatibility than the other two.

In fact there are more different modchips out there than different Saturn boards.

And even the installation guides suck. That bullshit about requiring a timing cable that connects to the cd drive controller pin? That pin is DIRECTLY connected to the ribbon, and even has a jumper on some chips to use that pin. I'm talking about that level of fuck ups.

Even the V3 consolegoods chips are just random Chinese chips cannibalized into a different motherboard. Which is why some of them work perfect on all boards, while some others don't work at all on Sanyo boards. It's fucking insane.

Also you don't have to get "lucky" when looking for a specific Saturn, you can identify almost everything on the insides from the serials. The only thing that is not yet documented is how many Japanese models used Hitachi and Sanyo cd drives.

Anonymous Wed Oct 16 18:47:16 2013 No.1140338
File: 1.51 MB, 4128x3096, feh_013967_000001_20131016_183900.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1139951
>>1137820

I got it sorted out using the picture in >>1139951.

I ended up not using anything but tinned wires and an iron and it worked out beautifully. I left about 8 inches of wire so I could snake them up through a hole in the RF shield and secure the chip up there with some electrical tape. Fun install and it worked on the first try. Always nice.

>>1140095
>>1140123

I triple checked the board revision before I did anything. I've done my Saturn already and that was MUCH simpler.

Anonymous Thu Oct 17 13:13:12 2013 No.1141608
File: 2.98 MB, 4272x2848, IMG_8560.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hey /vr/! I bought a Model 2 Genesis from a flea market yesterday and I'm having issues getting it to work. I'm not the most tech-savvy person out there, so apologies if I sound like a newfag.

When I plug in the console, the red power light comes on, but the TV does not receive any signal whatsoever. I blew in the cartridge, tried different games, and tried two different TVs. Still the same problem. Connecting cable TV in through the RF cable and then turning the console on with cause the picture to disappear.

I tried opening up the console and looking at the motherboard to see if the problem is there, but I can't see anything glaringly wrong with it. Posting a photo of it here in case any of you geniuses can find something that I missed. Any help getting this thing to work will be appreciated. It's possible that the RF cable might be the problem, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Anonymous Thu Oct 17 20:13:12 2013 No.1142529

>>1141608

Give your games (or at least one for testing purposes) and cartridge slot a good clean.

Use a q-tip and rubbing alcohol for the cart and either a microfiber cloth + a credit card + rubbing alcohol or just a cart with alcohol on the contacts for the slot.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 20:17:13 2013 No.1142535 >>1141608 Are you using the right power adapter?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 20:56:37 2013 No.1142591 >>1142529 I'll try this later. Thanks a lot. The inside of it is a little dusty. >>1142535 Model MK-2103 power adapter which is what it says to use on the bottom of the console.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 23:17:02 2013 No.1142836 >>1141608 that black capacitor nearest the video output, is it blown out? It might just be the photo but it looks like it might be blown out is the end of it flat or is it bubbled out?

Anonymous Thu Oct 17 23:37:06 2013 No.1142860

>>1139951
>>1137820
Speaking of mod chips. I bough a PS1 here over the week end and when I was cleaning it I noticed it had a mod chip in it. It plays CD-R backups fine but I am wondering what chip it is.

Is there a way to tell? Can I hold a button combo and get into the settings or anything like that?

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 23:41:37 2013 No.1142867 >>1142860 How many wires are attached? 4 wires -> "classic" mod, will fail stealth checks 6/7 wires -> stealth mod, probably has multi-mode if you hold reset for some amount of time

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 23:42:37 2013 No.1142872 >>1142867 Pretty sure it has 6 or so

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 17 23:42:37 2013 No.1142874 File: 118 KB, 800x394, 214660119_Hkgt8-L-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1142860 >>1142867 Also, try booting Strider 2. You'll know immediately if it's not stealthed.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 18 00:22:41 2013 No.1142930 >>1142591 Everything sounds like it should be working. 98% chance it's just a little too dirty to work.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 18 02:35:04 2013 No.1143078 >>1142874 >>1142867 Mind telling me how that stealth check works?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 18 11:15:06 2013 No.1143402 >>1143078 Basically the game performs the test not the actual ps1.

Anonymous Fri Oct 18 15:39:56 2013 No.1143681

>>1142930
I cleaned out the inside of the console and I sort of got it to work now. I think the RF cable is the problem after all because it is very finicky. Thanks a lot for your help.

>>1142836
I looked at this while cleaning it, and I don't really see anything wrong with that. Probably just the flash in the photo considering I got the console running without doing anything to it.

Anonymous Fri Oct 18 21:46:36 2013 No.1144236

>>1143402
Alright

I am still wondering what mod chip I have and if it can go stealth or not. I really don't want to undo the job the guy did before just to find out, it's rather nice.

Is there a way to get into the mod chips settings if it has any? I tried holding down reset but nothing came up.

Anonymous Sat Oct 19 00:16:36 2013 No.1144524

>>1144236
>Is there a way to get into the mod chips settings if it has any?

As far as I know, it just injects a bit of hex into the disc check sequence to to make every disc read like a NTSC-U disc (or your applicable region), so there are no settings involved.

Just enjoy your system and if you run into any games it doesn't like, then it might not be a stealth chip, in which case you need to spend a whole $9 with shipping for a new chip.

Noradninja Sat Oct 19 20:09:48 2013 No.1145924

>>1140123
I have bought two chips from Racketboy (http://www.racketboy.com/store/sega-saturn/sega-saturn-modchip.html)), both worked flawlessly and have for years. I have heard the chips made by Rob Webb and consolegoods are crap so I never rolled the dice with them; if Im going to shell out $80 to chip a console I am buying for $20 or so, I want the shit to work, period. Particularly because the Saturn is my favorite console and most of the really great EOL games for it were Japanese or limited prints.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 19 22:06:57 2013 No.1146067 File: 451 KB, 716x537, rcw.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Here's a present.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 19 23:21:40 2013 No.1146173 >>1144524 I image it isn't as easy as switching it out 1:1

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 19 23:49:40 2013 No.1146216 >>1140123 http://www.segastyle.com/store/image/cache/data/Universal-V3-265x265.jpg are these the one's you're talking about?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 20 00:29:40 2013 No.1146269 >>1146207 Can anyone give me advice on saturn modchips? I really do not wish to use the swap method, but I will if it is legit about modchips bricking saturn's.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 20 02:18:40 2013 No.1146436 what a qt http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpxs1K7SmeY

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 20 07:07:19 2013 No.1146726 >>1146436 >tfw Australian Why can't i meet QT's like her?

Anonymous Sun Oct 20 13:44:47 2013 No.1147217

>>1146067
Very nice, I like it.

>>1146269
I just installed one of those chips in my Saturn. It was really easy; all you do is plug in some ribbon cables, bridge two soldering pins on the chip, and solder one wire to the power supply to pick up +5V. There's very little risk of fucking anything up.

One thing I suggest though is that you don't solder your +5V wire onto the large pins that connect the power supply board to the motherboard. If you solder there, as I've seen done in some guides, then in the future you won't be able to remove the power supply board without having to remove that wire. Instead I soldered it to a nearby 5V soldering point on the underside of the power board. That way, if I ever need to take apart the Saturn again, I can remove the modchip and power board as a single unit.

Anonymous Sun Oct 20 13:58:47 2013 No.1147246

>>1146216
Yes.

>>1145924
Rob Webb chips work right for the most part, but sometimes 2 identical chips need different settings on the same machine. I'm not sure from where Rob sources them so they have that problem.

Racketboy chips are still infinitely worse though.

>>	Noradninja Mon Oct 21 15:32:35 2013 No.1149182 >>1147246 I fail to see how they are worse, considering at least in my experience they always work and are super simple to install.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 21 16:54:44 2013 No.1149306 >>1149182 Rob Webb chips are the same in that except that they aren't paper thin and don't break. Oh, and they cost half as much, and work in 20pin models too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 21 23:03:18 2013 No.1149969 How do you guys get scuffs off off your consoles and cartridges? Scuffs on black plastic (such as a n64) bug the shit out of me.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 21 23:42:58 2013 No.1150015 >>1149969 Magic eraser. Extra fine or extra powder

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 22 01:32:06 2013 No.1150149 >>1149182 Mine doesn't even boot legit games unless CD player menu.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 22 04:43:15 2013 No.1150336 Quick question Can you swap PS1 power supplies? Such as a 7000 model using a 9000 power supply?

Anonymous Tue Oct 22 09:57:07 2013 No.1150553
File: 42 KB, 592x430, Picture 121.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Got a replica controller for the NES, but the plug seems to be slightly different. The holes are smaller and I don't know if it's okay to try to jam it in by force. It goes in a little bit but doesn't work.

It came from US to Europe, so is this my problem? Got a replica controller for the SNES from the same place and it works fine.

Have I made a horrible mistake?

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 22 10:08:10 2013 No.1150563 >>1150553 Link o where you bought them from?

Anonymous Tue Oct 22 10:16:57 2013 No.1150574
File: 41 KB, 817x561, nrs.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1150563
http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/products/785-Exact-Replica-NEW-Nintendo-NES-Controller/

Only one of the four customer reviews mentions this and it doesn't seem to be a problem for anyone

Noradninja Tue Oct 22 17:16:11 2013 No.1151195

>>1149306
Except 'work for the most part' isn't better, nor is 'buy three identical chips from Rob Webb, chances are one of them will have different compatibility than the other two'. I understand your point about them being thin, but they aren't that fragile. I filed the edges of the connector for better fit, if that doesn't break it its pretty sturdy IMO. Try working on a board out of a current iOS device, THAT is fucking paper thin and scary (especially the iPod Touch, jesus).

As for not working with 20 pin units...I have not seen a consistent modchip that does, and if you have one of them you wouldn't even consider these chips anyway, so that is a moot point.

They ARE expensive, but honestly, they are also the most consistently functional chips available. I will pay more for something that always works. Even if the Webb chips were half the cost, if they didn't work every damn time I would be pissed vs. spending more and just enjoying my burned Saturn library.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 22 21:55:25 2013 No.1151636 >>1150336 Bumping my question

Noradninja Wed Oct 23 03:55:42 2013 No.1152038

>>1151636
If the pinout is identical and the Voltage/Amperage supplied is the same, you should be able to. As to wether that is the case, I don;t know but some Googling should reveal the info you need, and if not, you can always whip out a multimeter and find out.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 23 04:04:12 2013 No.1152040 >>1152038 Ehh... Google didn't have much on it And I rather not use a multimeter. I blew my old power supply trying to see the voltage coming of the voltage regulator/step down

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 08:46:04 2013 No.1154176 >>1151636 I have a 700x and a 900x. The 700x says it uses 17W and the 900x uses 10W. Whether this corresponds to a difference in power supplies or if the same design is capable of outputting different wattages, I don't know.

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 20:04:37 2013 No.1155229
File: 477 KB, 2459x704, ps1_scph7001_psu_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1150336
>>1152040

I decided to get to the bottom of this and found that 7001, 7501, and 9001 power supplies are completely interchangeable. I tested this myself; of course, I only did a brief power-up of each console, but everything seemed to work just fine. I also measured the voltages of the pins of each PSU and found that the voltages matched within a few tenths of a volt.

I added the info and pics to the wiki:
http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/Sony_Playstation_Hardware#Power_Supplies

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 20:29:13 2013 No.1155275 >>1155229 They might be pin compatible but without further testing we should be careful when recommending this, the 900x power supply might be rated for less current than the 700x one and if it's used on a 700x it might eventually burn up

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 20:33:44 2013 No.1155278 >>1155275 That's a good point. I adjusted the wording on the wiki page accordingly. The next time I'm in the mood for a PS1 game, I'll switch out the power supplies for a more thorough test.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 20:35:13 2013 No.1155283 >>1155278 For now we can assume the 900x will work with a 700x power supply though since we know it uses less current and they use the same voltages. We just have to figure out if the 900x power supply works in a 700x without issue

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 21:03:44 2013 No.1155336 File: 106 KB, 565x542, Ps1_scph7001_psu_top - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Curious anyone have a picture or the model number of this particular IC, I just want to know what it is.

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 21:03:44 2013 No.1155337

>>1155283
I may get to testing this out this weekend. I'm the same guy as >>1111574 , and all the parts I need to make a third attempt at modding a PS1 arrived this week, so I'll be performing surgery on the 7001 tomorrow evening.

I bring this up because I fixed the problem where the failed 7501 mod was causing discs to spin absurdly fast, at least partially. I cut the mod chip out of the 7501 in preparation for the 7001 mod but left the wires attached to the motherboard, and now the 7501 reads audio discs again, but it fails to recognize game discs, resulting in a "Please insert a Playstation CD-ROM" screen. I'm hoping this will be resolved after I remove the wires. If it does work, I will test the 9001 power supply in the 7501, since I won't want to risk damaging the modded 7001, assuming it works this time. Since the 7001 and 7501 both consume 17W of power, testing either should be sufficient.

Speaking of the MM3 mod chip, does anyone actually know what the role of each pin on the chip is? I'm curious, and I'd like to know which pins are Vcc and ground so I can relocate those soldering points as I choose.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 21:08:13 2013 No.1155345 >>1155336 The code is KA3842B C8D4C According to http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/KA/KA3842B.html , it's a fixed-frequency current mode PWM controller. Sorry for the shit quality, it's hard to get the lighting right.

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:04:28 2013 No.1155508
File: 512 KB, 2459x704, 1382659457120.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1155229
Fucking nice

I was wondering if you'd know what that voltage regulator is

I managed to pop mine and finding any documentation on it is being a real bitch.

the one that I labeled "dead' I tried to put in a 9000 power supply thinking it might work, but nope, it popped the fuse

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:10:43 2013 No.1155527
File: 626 KB, 2567x737, Ps1_scph9001_psu_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1155508
I tried replacing this 9000s voltage regulator with a 7000s and it didn't work.

This part is what I want information on, its circled. I think its Q001 on the board. I can't get any continuity though it. I'm pretty sure it's dead. I was wondering if there's any information on it and a possible replacement.

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:17:43 2013 No.1155546 >>1155527 more than likely it's just a power transistor if you can get the part number we should be able to find an equivalent to it. Switched power supplies are a pain in the ass to fix or mess with without a schematic

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:27:43 2013 No.1155570

>>1155546
Sure, I should be able to get them. I'm away from my shop right now though, so getting the numbers will have to wait

I really would love a PS1 service manual

And its a power transistor? Alright. I though it might be a regulator, but it's free standing with no heat sync, so what you say might be true.

Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:36:13 2013 No.1155586

>>1155570
Yeah switched mode power supplies don't use regulators they basically up the frequency of the AC to ridiculous levels(100x or higher) and using a PWM control IC (>>1155336 >>1155345) they switch on and off at very specific times to achieve the desired voltage. Tweaking the output voltages can be difficult because you have to figure out which component is setting the voltage

>>	Anonymous Thu Oct 24 23:39:43 2013 No.1155591 >>1155586 Alright, thanks for the information

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 19:39:03 2013 No.1157101 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 21:34:55 2013 No.1157310 >>1155591 >>1155586 >>1155570 Well shit. I forgot to get the part number today. I'll have to get it tomorrow.

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 21:39:54 2013 No.1157320

>>1157310
Also, I have a few SPCH 101s and the disk drive in both seem to make a clicking sound. Not the typical lazier moving back and fourth. More like the disk is out of balance. I tried with a worn out crash badancoot game and that disk caused the most noise. I tried both with a near perfect FF8 disk and the noise wasn't as bad.

What could be causing this? Is this normal for a PSone? I was considering that since its smaller and has thinner plastic then the standard PS1 it might be just noise that you don't normally hear

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 21:51:55 2013 No.1157340 File: 98 KB, 659x658, ps1_scph9001_psu_Q001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1157310 3204 K2182 I don't recognize the logo.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 21:54:54 2013 No.1157349 >>1157340 http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/43623/SHINDENGEN/K2185.html

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:00:25 2013 No.1157367 >>1157349 >>1157340 Is that the 9000 or 7000 one?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:01:25 2013 No.1157368 >>1157367 >>1157349 >>1157340 Oh, I looked at the name of the picture Haha, alright, never mind And thank you for getting this information

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:03:25 2013 No.1157372 >>1157368 Now where to buy this...

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:04:58 2013 No.1157375 >>1157368 If you need to replace that transistor be mindful of ESD, mosfets are more delicate compared to common BJT transistors and can be zapped by just the static from your hands.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:06:28 2013 No.1157379 >>1157375 yeah, I do need to replace it I think I get no continuity though it

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:11:28 2013 No.1157389 >>1157375 >>1157372 Do you got any idea where I could get a few? digikey isn't coming up with any with the though hole design

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:22:00 2013 No.1157410

>>1157379
they're somewhat trickier to test than BJT since they work in a different manner

http://www.4qdtec.com/mostest.html

>>1157389
this one appears to be pretty much the same
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/TK5A50DSTA4QM/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi4sELpEYrY7shKH%2fk%2fy51qc%3d

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:36:01 2013 No.1157427

>>1157410
Alright, thanks for the information

Its been diving me nuts for the past week. I haven't had a chance to head into my local electronics shop. That test, it sounds like it might shock you. Is there any other way to test them on the cheap?

And would that part work in a 9000 power supply? It looks pretty much the same as the other part linked here >>1157349

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:43:30 2013 No.1157440 >>1157427 The Power Dissipation on the one you linked seems to be 5 more Watts then the one they have installed on the PS1 board. Think that could make a difference?

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:47:30 2013 No.1157448

>>1157440
That's alright it just means it can handle more heat without burning up, it also switches somewhat faster than the original one but that shouldn't affect anything since the switching is all controlled by another component. That's the closest one I could find to the original as it seems that particular one has been discontinued.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:48:01 2013 No.1157452 >>1157448 Alright, thanks Now the question that I have that hasn't been answered is will these fit in all the PS1 power supplies, or are they different for each one

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:50:30 2013 No.1157453 >>1157452 Well, I guess I answered my own question when I tried putting a 7000 one in a 9000 power supply and blowing the fuze

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 22:52:31 2013 No.1157454 >>1157453 >>1157452 >>1157448 I guess a better question to ask would be some resources that are good for ID part specifics. The one you linked (http://www.alldatasheet.com/)) seems good. Are there any other resources I should be made aware of?

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:00:30 2013 No.1157468

>>1157427
>That test, it sounds like it might shock you.
Anything less than 30V is practically harmless you may get a tinging sensation but that's about it, your skin is very resistant so the current is kept pretty low and usually you wont even feel anything at those voltages. When you start getting above 40V that's when you want to be careful.

>>1157454
Googling the part number is the quickest method, all datasheet catches a lot of them but sometimes parts don't show up there and you have to rely on other sites.

datasheetcatalog.net
is another good one though

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:01:30 2013 No.1157470 >>1157468 Alright, thanks for the information I tried googiling the part number but nothing came up a week ago

Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:05:00 2013 No.1157476

>>1157468 here again
Although I say this you should of course always avoid working on things while they're live though, even if they're low voltages. 24V makes a pretty big spark when you short them together and it will scare the shit out of you if you're not expecting it.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:07:00 2013 No.1157479 File: 60 KB, 264x267, 1382347373174.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1157476 >>1157470 Yeah, I found that out the hard way I was trying to test the voltage and that's how it popped

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:12:31 2013 No.1157481 >>1157479 The low voltages are the sneakiest ones especially when working with negative voltages, +12V shorted to -12V will give you the 24V you need for a pretty light show.

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:19:30 2013 No.1157489 >>1157481 I'm just starting out on this stuff so all of this is quite new to me I'd love to learn more of it

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:28:30 2013 No.1157505 >>1157489 >>1157481 Do you have any resources for learning basic electronics? Maybe a book or site?

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:45:37 2013 No.1157525 >>1157320 Also bumping my question about the SCPH 101s disk drive being noisy

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:49:37 2013 No.1157532 >>1157505 http://www.amazon.com/dp/0945053282/ http://en.bookos.org/book/463552/751854 http://www.amazon.com/dp/0521370957/ http://en.bookos.org/book/1244988/24fab2 these are a pretty good place to start

>>	Anonymous Fri Oct 25 23:53:37 2013 No.1157539 >>1157532 Alright, I'll give them a look Thanks man You've been a true bro

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:17:08 2013 No.1157571

>>1157539
Have fun, also be sure to get yourself a digital multimeter.

You don't need a $100 fluke but it definitely wouldn't hurt at all to have one, even an older model is preferable to a dollar store special. Cheap meters don't last as long, are less accurate, and are potentially unsafe at high voltages, so they should not be used where accuracy is needed and should definitely not be used for any sort of electrician type work.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:20:07 2013 No.1157579 >>1157571 I got a fuke. It was a hand me down. Also, this first book seems good, but I don't like the hand written style for some reason

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:25:56 2013 No.1157590

>>1157579
The first one is a lot more beginner friendly it's a good start for figuring out how the various components work, the last half of it is full of example circuits that you can try out yourself. The second book is more of a textbook style it's a lot more formal and a lot longer and more in depth

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:29:31 2013 No.1157597 >>1157590 Alright, sounds good Is it alright to just download these?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:32:57 2013 No.1157602 >>1157597 well I don't really know about the legality of it but I've downloaded them myself

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 00:36:15 2013 No.1157606 >>1157602 I suppose I could go down to radio shack and buy that one

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 01:46:47 2013 No.1157712 >>1124117 If you're referring to the voltage regulator located on the main board right next to the PSU connector it's a TA78M05F. 5V, like nearly everything else int he VG world.

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 01:53:19 2013 No.1157718

>>1136851
First try a different power supply. Bad ones often cause a buzz and/or poor display. May as well rule out a potential problem that doesn't require opening the case. If that doesn't do it check your soldering to make sure you didn't mess something else, Next replace the cap, then the regulator. I don't see how a fuse could cause this.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 01:55:18 2013 No.1157724 >>1139286 I have many of these and fix them all the time. What are the symptoms?

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 02:03:18 2013 No.1157737 >>1149969 I use a nail buffer kit. The stone bits will make a mess but the fabric ones are are great. Usually use a few drops of alcohol or soapy water.

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 03:56:27 2013 No.1157853

>>1157712
I'm talking about the part circled here for the 9000 power supply >>1155527

I think I killed it and I think I've found a suitable replacement

Also, I think I killed the MOSFET on my 7000 power supply >>1155508.

I'd like to find out what that one is

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 03:59:42 2013 No.1157856 >>1157853 And on the 7000 one its the one that I labeled dead

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 07:16:40 2013 No.1158004

>>1157853
The PSU for the 7501 I have open right now looks very similar and the part that looks identical and is in about the same place is a K2125. That's a MOSFET not a VR. If you can read the part number on yours it should be easy enough to look up.

I'll have a look and see if I have any 9000 laying around I can crack open

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 07:25:11 2013 No.1158012 >>1158004 Well, what ever its called. I'll have to see if I can't find a replacement

Anonymous Sat Oct 26 10:30:06 2013 No.1158186

I've been trying to pick up Banjo Kazooie for some good retro speedrunning. It's kind of a bitch, but that's really not the issue here; my problem is that 2 carts in a row now refuse to keep saves for longer than the system is on, and you have to have a save file that has gone through a cutscene to skip the cutscene.

It isn't an sram issue, no battery to replace here, and looking around it seems I'm not the only one who has had the issue, but I've yet to see a viable solution.

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 19:30:49 2013 No.1159048 >>1158186 It might be the N64 that you're playing it on, or you just got really unlucky

>>	Anonymous Sat Oct 26 19:40:48 2013 No.1159056 >>1158186 Have you tried cleaning the cartridge and slot? I doubt it's the problem, but it could be that some pin associate with writing data to the backup memory is having connectivity issues. Can you save on other games?

Anonymous Sun Oct 27 08:39:27 2013 No.1160183

>>1158186
>It isn't an sram issue, no battery to replace here
In this case it's a EEPROM issue, those don't need power to keep data intact but the amount of reprogramming cycles is limited (at least 10000-100000 for the most EEPROMs).

>>1159056
>but it could be that some pin associate with writing data to the backup memory is having connectivity issues
You're right.
http://crazynation.org/N64/n64_cart_info.htm
Pin 21 is the fifth 'controller' port line which is used for communication with EEPROMs.
The EEPROMs used in N64 carts are using a non-standard protocol which is similar to N64/GC controllers.

Check if the pins of the EEPROM for dry solder joints (the little one with 8 pins named BU9850) and resolder it.
And if that didn't helped, salvage the EEPROM of a another cartridge or engineer your own microcontroller based replacement.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 27 09:48:28 2013 No.1160251 Sorry but the wikia editing interface sucks ass! You could have chosen a better engine, no wonder this wiki fails. Take exemple on the CPCwiki.

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 27 20:22:51 2013 No.1161262 >>1160183 Care to explain that site in English? That's way technical

Anonymous Sun Oct 27 22:46:21 2013 No.1161508

How do I unscrew the bolts on an n64, and where can I get the tool to do it?

I googled it, and it said I need 4.5mm bolt screws or something, but I went to Ace hardware and Home depot and they say bolt "removers" dont come in that small a size.

Where can I find the thing needed to actually get it out?

>>	Anonymous Sun Oct 27 22:56:48 2013 No.1161528 >>1161508 They're called gamebits and they're proprietary so regular nut drivers wont really work well if at all. You can order a set of them like these off of amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEZY2I6/

Anonymous Mon Oct 28 02:30:27 2013 No.1161970
File: 79 KB, 768x1024, IMG_0256.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1158186

I've had a dirty cart slot cause save games to be lost in SNES and GB games. I assume this can happen with the N64 as well.

Shoot some pic related into the cart slot and scrub away with a toothbrush or another (unwanted) cart.

Anonymous Mon Oct 28 08:37:20 2013 No.1162398
File: 127 KB, 640x916, 3 - Hitachi cd board 1226317244.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1151195
The whole "different compatibility inbetween chips" thing is limited to requiring a different setting for 64pin machines on their older chip, and not working on Sanyo models on their newer chip, and both happened ONCE to me so far (out of a dozen chips I ordered from them).

On 20pin machines, they all worked perfect, even on the obscure Hitachi drive. The only problem I had was cd audio tracks getting a noise in one instance, and that was caused by a faulty PSU.

The SSIC8B chips equally have their "doesn't always work" problem, with 64pin and sanyo drives. Even the guides tell you things like soldering an extra data signal wire being required for 64pin machines, and that a+b connection won't work, despite the two methods doing the EXACT SAME thing (the data wire is already inside the ribbon, connecting a+b will just pass it on to the chip).

And really the only reason why I found more faults with the Rob chips is because I've tried more of them, and because I tried each chip in 5 different drives. If I did the same on the SSIC8B chips, I bet I'd find even more oddities.

Anonymous Mon Oct 28 19:20:55 2013 No.1163421

>>1158012
Replacements are easy. Anything with a similar spec will do. However I'm worried you might be wasting your time. You won't get anything across a NPN without power to the base, so confirm that first. Not trying to be an ass but base in the middle pin if you didn't know.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 28 19:30:56 2013 No.1163434 >>1161262 Don't worry your self. That has nothing to do with the problems you're having with your ique. Anyone who mistook that for not being English must obviously only know about those.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 28 19:35:55 2013 No.1163442 >>1161508 If you need to unscrew more than one get a game bits. If not, a needle neck vice grip will do the job.

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 28 22:28:57 2013 No.1163815 >>1163434 What? I'm not the same person

>>	Anonymous Mon Oct 28 22:33:57 2013 No.1163825 >>1157320 >>1157525 Bumping again This disk drive is driving me crazy. It seems the worst the disk is scratched, the louder the knocking coming from the drive

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 29 00:08:36 2013 No.1163978 >>1163825 So resurface the goddamn disc. Christ, are you incapable of following scientific method? You already revealed that THE BETTER CONDITION THE MEDIA IS IN, THE FEWER ISSUES YOU HAVE. Also turn the damn system on its side.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 29 00:11:36 2013 No.1163984 >>1163978 No need to be an ass

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 29 00:36:38 2013 No.1164039 >>1163984 Don't forget to breathe.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 29 00:57:09 2013 No.1164086 File: 171 KB, 150x150, 1378974805923.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1164039 I wont

Anonymous Tue Oct 29 17:51:56 2013 No.1165286

>>1163978
Hey douchebag, you ever think resurfacing every scratched disc might just be treating the symptom rather than finding the root problem? And what are you talking about with turning the system on its side?

>>1163825
Have you tried opening the console and watching how the disc and laser move? If the problem is related to scratched discs, then I doubt the problem is a spindle that is out of balance, since that would probably affect every disc equally. I suspect what's going on is that the sound you hear is the laser hitting the end of its track over and over while it's trying to seek data. The sound might also be the laser trying to focus. The lens will float up and down accompanied by a clicking sound as it focuses, and if the disc is damaged, it may make several attempts before it can read any data.

If the laser is the problem, there's not really much you can do. You can try cleaning the laser lens to see if that helps, or you can resurface problem discs as the friendly anon suggested above.

Anonymous Tue Oct 29 17:58:27 2013 No.1165298

>>1161508
You need to unscrew "bolts" on an N64. So you can what? Screw up what's inside? There's a reason they use a special screw. It's so curious kids don't open an break it. If you don't know what a game bit is you have no business opening the machine.

>>	Anonymous Tue Oct 29 18:07:57 2013 No.1165317 >>1165286 Turning an optical disk on it's side changes the balance, spin, etc of the disk. It's a well know quick fix.

Anonymous Tue Oct 29 22:19:07 2013 No.1165720

>>1165286
Yeah, I have tried running it without the top on. I don't think its the laser assembly. It's also not scratching disks either.

I just think that it has a hard time gripping onto a worn disk.

That said, I put some tape on top of the disk with the top off to see if that alleviated the noise, but that was a no go. I'm thinking it might be the spindle motor. I might try greasing that.

Anonymous Tue Oct 29 22:41:41 2013 No.1165757

>>1162398
Okay. I was all ready to pull the trigger on the modchip being offered by SegaStyle (I have a Model 1), but all this talk about their unreliability has me worried.

Also, my Model 1 doesn't read discs (got it from a friend), so I would have to replace the laser. At this point do you think it would be in my best interest to just try to acquire a pre-modded console, or would replacing the laser and installing a modchip not present too much of a challenge?

Anonymous Wed Oct 30 19:17:54 2013 No.1167459

Any tips for stripping 30 gauge wire without the proper tool?

I picked up some 30 gauge wire for a fresh attempt at modding a PSX, but my wire stripper only goes down to 24 gauge. I've had some success using the tip of a small flathead screwdriver and some pliers, but it's a long, tedious process, and half the time I end up severing the wire. Is there a common household solution, or do I just need the proper tool?

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 30 19:20:54 2013 No.1167467 >>1167459 You might be able to use a knife to cut the insulation then pull it off if you're careful, you might also just cut right through it though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 30 21:31:23 2013 No.1167643 >>1167459 Using a lighter to melt the insulation might help and make it easier to pull off. It might just burn right though it though

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 30 22:41:53 2013 No.1167752 >>1157320 >What could be causing this? Is this normal for a PSone? I Yes, basically. My PSone makes a "ticking" sound when it spins the disc up. It's not very loud, and it doesn't have any trouble reading the disc, it's just something it does.

>>	Anonymous Wed Oct 30 22:44:54 2013 No.1167758 >>1167752 Well, thank you. I've been wondering if it was something it normally does.

Sharp X68000 Thread Anonymous Thu Oct 31 10:05:56 2013 No.1168629 [DELETED]

File: 48 KB, 800x558, 0038_01_l.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've become interested in these machines. Does anyone own one or have experience with it? There are several versions and I'm not sure which one I should get if I decide to start looking for one.

The Castlevania game for it is fucking awesome, dat music.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLJhPvI-H9A

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 1 15:47:47 2013 No.1171223 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 1 21:42:51 2013 No.1172114 >>1167459 You're dentist and mom might not recommend it but I've been stripping wrapping wire with my teeth for over 30 years.

Anonymous Fri Nov 1 22:05:22 2013 No.1172150

>>1165757
If you can do basic soldering/desoldering, you can install the modchip easily. About the most difficult thing would be changing the jumpers if you ever want to do that, but as long as you have the equipment (desoldering wire or pump) it is not a problem.

You can try adjusting the laser and the tray height until the drive starts reading discs again. Be very careful, adjust in small steps, and observe how differently the machine acts for your changes.
I've bought 30+ saturns the past two years, the majority of them as broken ones, and only ONE of them had a completely useless laser, plus another that was really too fucking weak to read anything. Everything else worked right, once calibrated. Most of my units can read a cracked original disc I use for testing.

As for getting a premodded machine, I still have one such PAL machine for sale in case you live in Yurop.

Anonymous Fri Nov 1 23:13:06 2013 No.1172296

Game Gear question!

I got a GG that only gives me a black screen after powering on. I cleaned the carts/cart slot, so I don't think it's that. The weird part is, while I was testing it, the longer I had the batteries it (or powered on, I guess), it started shutting off.

It would stay on for a while, and then shut off. Then, it stayed on for about half a second and kept shutting off. After I left it off and came back to it, it would turn on again for a period of time. Still a black screen though.

Any idea what's going on? Do I just need to recap it?

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 1 23:18:36 2013 No.1172310 The reset button on my 7501 Playstation doesn't work. Any ideas?

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 1 23:21:06 2013 No.1172318 >>1172310 Check for cracks in the solder under the button and resolder if you find any. If that doesn't work use a multimeter and run a continuity check on the button to see if it's stuck "open." If it's stuck open you need to desolder and replace it.

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 2 19:42:32 2013 No.1173773 >>1172296 >Do I just need to recap it? Almost certainly. That may solve the power off problem. Could be other things wrong as well though.

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 2 22:18:43 2013 No.1174113 >>1173773 Anything specific I should look out for?

Anonymous Sat Nov 2 22:44:48 2013 No.1174160

Saturn keeps saying "Drive door open," even though it's clearly closed. Holding down the lid while the Saturn is on and a disc is inserted, it tries to read the disc (I hear no movement, however), but comes up blank. Is this thing just shot to hell, or what?

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 11:01:39 2013 No.1175000 >>1174160 Crack it open and tape the dealie that detects if the door is open down and take it from there.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 11:17:39 2013 No.1175021 Looking into buying an NES. Which is preferable, the dogbone controller or the original? I played with the original controller, but I was very young and don't really remember how it felt.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 11:22:09 2013 No.1175028 >>1175021 dogbone is supposed to be more comfortable, I really don't mind the rectangle shape myself though what bothers me about the rectangle is the concave buttons, those things dig in to your thumbs

Anonymous Sun Nov 3 16:01:27 2013 No.1175880

>>1174113
Not really. You have multiple problems and they may have multiple causes. Take it one step at a time. The power off problem is likely a cap problem. Once you can get it to power up long enough you can check if you get any sound. Again, you may get no sound or a hum with bad caps so if your cracking it open to replace a couple caps you might as well replace those as well. The black screen could be a bad backlight so if you replace the screen caps you will at least be able to check that by holding it under a light to see if there's a picture.

Anonymous Sun Nov 3 16:14:27 2013 No.1175931

>>1174160
The lid detection is done by a switch near the back of the machine that's driven by the gear mechanism that makes the lid open slowly. It's a simple on/of switch so if pressing the lid down makes it think the lid is closed that's all you need to test it.
If the disc doesn't spin up there's either a problem with the drive mechanism or power to it. Crack it open and look for loose cables.
Also:
When testing you might want to try a CD instead of a game disc.
You can tape up the lid switch to test things with the lid off so you can see if it's spinning instead of having to guess by listening

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 16:43:34 2013 No.1175998 >>1175931 I'm not seeing this on/off switch for the drive door, do you have a diagram perchance?

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 21:10:23 2013 No.1176632 File: 185 KB, 1024x768, saturnlidoff.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1175998 It's mounted in a strange way with a lever that pushes against it. I've circled it in the pic.

Anonymous Sun Nov 3 21:28:11 2013 No.1176649
File: 50 KB, 800x440, 800px-Sega-Master-System-Set.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Got a master system question

When I power on my master system, it seems the volume is really low. I've tried some different RF switches and nothing.

I am thinking it might be a bad capacitor. What capacitors control the audio circuit on the board? I would like to know what caps so I know where to start my search for the bad capacitor(s)

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 21:52:40 2013 No.1176680 >>1176649 >RF Get an AV cable for it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 21:55:56 2013 No.1176685 >>1176680 If you can't help, why post at all? an AV cable isn't going to help if a cap is going bad.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 22:10:26 2013 No.1176713 >>1176685 >>1176680 I'm sorry that sounded a bit dickish I don't have an extra AV cable laying around and I really want to know what caps are involved in the sound circuit so I don't have to replace all the caps

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 22:11:26 2013 No.1176717 >>1176685 The problem could be with the RF module inside the console. An AV cable would bypass that. If a cap was going bad it wouldnt have any sound at all.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 22:14:28 2013 No.1176721 >>1176717 >If a cap was going bad it wouldnt have any sound at all. Not necessarily. Caps can be attributed to a cap weakening over time before it goes bad

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 22:15:58 2013 No.1176724 >>1176721 Err, sound issues I meant sound issues, especially volume

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 23:12:16 2013 No.1176825 >>1176713 Then strip an old cable and stick the wires into the holes in the AV out or do the same with some old headphones. >>1176717 If a cap is going bad you could get distortion, volume fluctuation, hum, etc.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 23:20:45 2013 No.1176840 >>1176825 It has fading audio so it might be the cap. I looked at a service manual and for "No audio" it has cap 49 as the culprit. So that's a place to start And I might make some cables, but it doesn't seem necessary

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 3 23:43:54 2013 No.1176890 >>1176632 Thanks, will investigate after work tomorrow!

Anonymous Mon Nov 4 22:05:00 2013 No.1178615

>>1176840
Well, I replaced the C49 cap and nothing changed.

I have a spare board and that RF unit was above the 5 volt requirement while the one I'm working on was only outputting around 4.6 volts

I'm thinking of replacing the RF box with the one that's outputting more voltage.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 4 23:19:51 2013 No.1178732 >>1175880 Cool. I just want to clarify, the screen does light up, it's just totally black. Waiting for my shipment of caps now.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 4 23:44:07 2013 No.1178778 While I was away for college my parents decided to sell my old games and consoles. What should I look for when purchasing used consoles on ebay and the like? Particularly NES/SNES.

Anonymous Mon Nov 4 23:55:38 2013 No.1178792

>>1178778

Just make sure you can get the original AC adapters with the systems and a preferably non-yellowed SNES.

Nothing else to look out for really. You'll probably need to clean the shit out of your NES's 72-pin adapter to make it work 100% of the time. Also, avoid shitty aftermarket 72-pin replacements for the NES.

Anonymous Tue Nov 5 00:13:37 2013 No.1178821

>>1178792
>Just make sure you can get the original AC adapters with the systems
For the NES you don't really need the original adapter, you can probably search your closet and dig up one that will work. The NES isn't too picky.

As long as it's:
9V-11V and *at least* 850mA and it fits the hole, it will work.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 5 01:07:40 2013 No.1178885 >>1178821 I forgot about that. Yeah, the OEM NES adapter isn't really an issue, but shot for an original SNES one as the aftermarket ones are really hit-or-miss.

Anonymous Tue Nov 5 22:20:46 2013 No.1180612

>>1178732
Well the backlight works then, but you generally would get something more than that if it's just a cap problem. Still worth changing the caps though. I've run across a few systems with similar problems

Do you get any sound at all? clicks, hum, etc?

Also try turning it on for 30 seconds or so and then switching it off and on. Maybe try this a few times. It it works, or works somewhat after that it's a cap problem.

Don't want to be an ass if you mentioned this before but you cleaned the contacts on the cart/slot?

>>1178885
True, but when you find one that hits go back and buy a shitload of them. They work for nearly everything in that generation and a good modern one will be much better than an original.

Anonymous Tue Nov 5 22:36:20 2013 No.1180650

>>1178615
I just switched the RF box and did that make a difference in volume

Took me a while to get one off my scrap board and get it off the good master system board, but fuck, it was worth it

It seems there's a capacitor in the RF box. I wonder if that is what went bad

I'll take it off later and check it

Anonymous Tue Nov 5 22:47:48 2013 No.1180673

>>1178615
Any time you can swap in a known good part you eliminate variables. It's worth a try.

Also, there are a shitload of caps in this system and I doubt there's only one involved in audio. Most of them are ceramic which don't "explode" like electrolytic to make it obvious they're bad.

This may sound a bit rough but pinch each one and rub your fingers back and forth. A bad ceramic cap will often split when you do this.

Not a surefire way to test caps but a good start. Don't worry about damaging the good caps. They won't break. Unless your Hercules or something. Also, don't twist the cap. This will fuck with the base.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 5 22:50:18 2013 No.1180681 >>1180673 There's only 16 electrolytic caps, 17 if you count the one in the RF switch and that's a good tip with the ceramic ones

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 5 22:53:19 2013 No.1180695 >>1180673 there's one electrolytic cap and a few resistors the service manual said to check before just saying the RF box was bad so I switched it out The audio was fine on RCA so I knew it was the box

Anonymous Wed Nov 6 11:23:43 2013 No.1181437
File: 854 KB, 3096x4128, feh_029693_000001_20131106_105513.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1180612
>Also try turning it on for 30 seconds or so and then switching it off and on. Maybe try this a few times. It it works, or works somewhat after that it's a cap problem.

Huzzah!

I left it on when I went to go make coffee and when I came back, Sanic was playing! It worked for a few seconds, gave me some weird horizontal lines that scrolled to the bottom, and then shut off, like it was doing earlier.

I guess that's a good sign.

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 14:56:41 2013 No.1181664 File: 556 KB, 3096x4128, feh_004085_000001_20131106_141550.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] A shot of the lines.

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 14:57:40 2013 No.1181665 File: 1.52 MB, 3219x1617, ALIM8253.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Best pic I could take of the amiga 1200 motherboard. I think it's modded but I have no idea of what has been done to it.

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 16:28:32 2013 No.1181835 Looking into the TurboGrafx. Should I go for a Turbo Duo? Also, I've heard they play burned CDs with no modification required, is that true?

Anonymous Wed Nov 6 20:12:13 2013 No.1182184

>>1181437
Good to hear. Recap it and you should be good to go.

>>1181835
Yes, Duo is your best option. They will play burned discs. I've had problems with some drives and come disc combinations. If a disc doesn't work try burning on a different brand media

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:04:32 2013 No.1182257 >>1181665 Huh, do all RF boxes look alike? That RF box looks almost exactly like the one in side my Sega Master System and a SNES I think its by the same company too.

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:06:33 2013 No.1182265 >>1182257 they all work pretty much the same way but I don't think they're all compatible with each other

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:09:20 2013 No.1182272 File: 5 KB, 207x160, 1377675274417.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1182265 Not compatible, but I think they're all made by the same company Starts with an M but I forget it

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:10:52 2013 No.1182279 >>1182272 >>1182265 >>1182257 Also, anyone know a good way to remove one without a lot of effort? I have a hot air gun but I can't hit all the joints with air at once to just pull it off

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:14:51 2013 No.1182292 >>1182279 solder sucker should work

Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:17:21 2013 No.1182305
File: 65 KB, 400x300, 1373246081619.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1182292
One would think that, but they really lay on the solder to secure these things. I can get most of it off, but getting it to lift off the board is a real bitch.

It doesn't help they twist the god dam pins too

>MFW

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:21:52 2013 No.1182317 >>1182305 If it wont come up the first time lay down some more solder then repeat. Solder in old electronics can be tricky and might need a few attempts

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 21:23:20 2013 No.1182324 >>1182317 I did that It got to the point where I couldn't get the solder out of the hole the pins where in I just ended up popping it out with some force after that

Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:39:02 2013 No.1182670
File: 778 KB, 2592x1944, IMG027.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Anons, I desperately need your help. Maybe not so much because I actually could somehow manage to afford a new controller, HOWEVER, I really would like to get this one fixed. The problem is: THE DOWN BUTTON DOESN'T WORK. I've double checked the plastic and it's in great condition overall, so there's definitely contact between it and the little metal thing. Could the problem be in the circuit board? Or, maybe, given I only have one cartridge, could it be DUE TO THE ONLY GAME I HAVE TO TEST? HOW REMOTE IS THIS POSSIBILITY? I have two controllers with the same problem.
Since I didn't know there was this general thread, I created my own, so if you want to know specifically what's happening head to
>>1179614

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:49:02 2013 No.1182695 >>1182670 The problem is definitely in the controller if other buttons work. I'm betting the rubber membrane has lost its conductive properties on the down button. Can you press the down button when you just push your finger on the bare PCB?

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:50:02 2013 No.1182701 >>1182695 actually what game are you even using anyway?

Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:55:33 2013 No.1182723
File: 595 KB, 2592x1944, IMG030.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1182695
Hmm, I tried pressing it with all rubber membranes, even the one from the upper R stick (it's the best for testing with the card connected to the SNES), and nothing happened just with the DOWN BUTTON. I am a bit worried about touching it as I could burn the circuit, or so I have heard for PC components. I didn't touch it, but I might if necessary. Regardless, thanks for the input :3

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:56:02 2013 No.1182728 >>1182723 need a close up of the contact without the rubber on it If there's exposed metal you might be able to trace it back and see if its connected

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 6 23:57:03 2013 No.1182731 File: 668 KB, 2592x1944, IMG031.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1182701 Choplifter 3, but really, it looks FALSE/PIRATED, doesn't it? This is why I think it may be due to the game, as the same problem occurs in BOTH controllers.

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:02:02 2013 No.1182743
File: 566 KB, 2592x1944, IMG032.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1182728
Best shot possible since I'm using my cellphone and it just wouldn't focus. Am I actually mad about the problem being on the game? Really, BOTH controllers? Sadly, I know no one to lend me a spare game ;_;

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:07:32 2013 No.1182751 File: 183 KB, 1161x787, 1383800110670.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1182743 >>1182723 there's a scratch clean through the via on that controller there's your problem

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:08:33 2013 No.1182753 >>1182743 The D-pad has cut though the trace in the middle That copper you see shouldn't be exposed Reattach it to resume normal play See here how it's cut >>1182751

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:10:02 2013 No.1182759

>>1182751
Not the best news, but indeed this must be the reason. Is there any possible solution? Cleaning, soldering, helping the poor? Nonetheless, I thank you for clarifying it, the mere thought of the same occurring to the other controller baffles me. At least I'll have plenty of spare part if the worst is to happen.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:11:33 2013 No.1182760 >>1182751 >>1182753 amazingly it looks like someone pressed the d-pad hard enough that it cut through the coating on the pcb and severed the via to the down button and nearly severed the connection to all the buttons

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:12:03 2013 No.1182764 >>1182759 easy as hell to fix if you have a soldering iron, just scratch a little more of the coating off the via to the down button and make a bridge across to the other side

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:13:02 2013 No.1182765

>>1182753
>That copper you see shouldn't be exposed
Do excuse me, but English is not my native language, as I'm from Brazil, so could you explain yourself in simpler terms, for the sake of it?
>Reattach it to resume normal play
H-how?

>>1182760
;_; it was the damned previous owner, the bastard even carved his name in the console and in one controller, which makes them look hideous.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:17:33 2013 No.1182773 >>1182765 This >>1182764

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:17:33 2013 No.1182774

>>1182764
Do not mind me, I see it now, doing this seems to be a little specific, as I've never even held a soldering iron, but I truly appreciate the help, thank you anons :3
>just scratch a little more of the coating off the via to the down button and make a bridge across to the other side
Actually, I don't really know what exactly to do even with your further explanation, but the fault's on my lack of knowledge. Again, obrigado cringe worthy but it gets the point across :3

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:25:51 2013 No.1182784 File: 518 KB, 2866x988, 1383800110670.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1182774 you can fix it by doing one of the following

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:36:50 2013 No.1182801

>>1182784
Hmm I see, nonetheless, given I've never touched a solder neither do I have one and it's 3:30 am here I'll head to a tool store tomorrow and try to get one, besides asking for some minimal instructions (I'll pay most likely 40-50 reais for a simple one), it'll probably be more expensive than buying a new used controller (35 reais) but the satisfaction of actually having a fair reason to 'learn' soldering is far too strong, I've read about it before but never had the opportunity to put it into practice. Fixing old stuff is also great for the sense of accomplishment and environmental contribution (it would be a whole lot better if people didn't throw out their nonfunctional electronics as if they were not harmful). Probably on Sunday I'll post the feedback of the result, hopefully with a picture of the choplifter going down.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 00:41:06 2013 No.1182809 >>1182801 >>1182743 be sure to check the other controller too

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 01:19:54 2013 No.1182857
File: 847 KB, 2592x1944, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1182784
You're going to want to avoid soldering onto that divot, or the D-pad is just going to rub against the fix and break it again.

I doodled out a good re-route for both traces. Just sand off the green mask and solder the wires to the indicated points, and when you're done use a dab of hot glue or something similar to secure the middle section of the wires.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 01:22:23 2013 No.1182859 >>1182857 yeah I wasn't sure what to do about the membrane button since it covered the trace completely but I was hoping he'd get the idea

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 15:24:21 2013 No.1183794 bump

Anonymous Thu Nov 7 17:55:14 2013 No.1184048
File: 1.69 MB, 4128x3096, feh_018561_000001_20131107_172745.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1182184
>Recap it and you should be good to go.

Well, everything is fine after a recap, except for two small things.

-When I first plug it in to play, it'll turn on, but the game won't start. A quick on/off flick makes it start up.

-pic related. It seems like the screen is divided into thirds vertically, and all of the thirds have slightly different contrast (see the rightmost third). This picture isn't really a good indicator. It's much more noticeable in person.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 7 18:30:17 2013 No.1184094 File: 1.04 MB, 3096x4128, feh_020361_000001_20131107_181841.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Up close shot of the right third of the screen. It also has some strange distortion on certain backgrounds.

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 8 14:05:28 2013 No.1185746 bump

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 9 11:28:30 2013 No.1187593 bump

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 9 20:16:19 2013 No.1188417 File: 56 KB, 640x512, 1383712687395.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1184094 >>1184048 If there's a ribbon cable, did you seat it right? The screen might be damaged too

Anonymous Sun Nov 10 13:02:33 2013 No.1189819

>>1188417

There is a ribbon cable, but it's soldered to the board and I didn't mess with it. Also, it was doing that before I opened it.

There are, however, three ICs, under glass beneath the screen, that control the clock and shit for each third of the screen. I have a feeling that either one of those is failing, or they aren't getting the right information or enough power.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 10 17:54:03 2013 No.1190327 >>1189819 That's definitely a problem with one of the chips, either the chip or signal to it. Try cleaning the chips with an air can and wipe down the cable connectors in case a contact is bridged with another.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 10 19:04:11 2013 No.1190495 File: 45 KB, 641x351, 1364153553203.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1189819 >>1190327 Why would Sega make each third of the screen controlled by a different chip?

Anonymous Sun Nov 10 23:41:14 2013 No.1191104
File: 943 KB, 3096x4128, feh_011270_000001_20131110_184037.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1190495

I think it has something to do with Master System compatibility.

>>1190327
>Try cleaning the chips with an air can and wipe down the cable connectors in case a contact is bridged with another.

I did that with no change.

You can see the chips in this pic, just a little below the screen . They are the little ovals.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 10 23:45:13 2013 No.1191113 File: 1.43 MB, 4128x3096, feh_011315_000001_20131110_183318.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] A shot with flash. My copy of Sonic 2 mysteriously stopped working after this shot.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 10 23:59:00 2013 No.1191147 >>1191104 >>1191113 You might be better off trying to just find a replacement screen of some type Also, have you cleaned the games well?

Anonymous Mon Nov 11 00:06:00 2013 No.1191158

>>1191147
>Also, have you cleaned the games well?

Yep, all the contacts have been perfectly scrubbed with an eraser and then some rubbing alcohol. I turned the system off and then on after the shot, and Sonic 2 suddenly stopped working. I'm going to chalk it up to a strange static issue (by having the GG on while it's out of the case, I was bypassing a bit of shielding between the backlight tube and the cart).

>You might be better off trying to just find a replacement screen of some type

If I find another GG for cheap, I'll do it. Other than that, I can live with it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 00:08:46 2013 No.1191162 >>1191158 Might be able to pick one up cheap online for parts Like one that doesn't have sound working. That was a common issue.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 01:03:17 2013 No.1191231 >>1191104 Double check the connections and inputs to that right most chip. If it was dead you'd get a back bar instead of just a dark one.

Anonymous Mon Nov 11 01:28:48 2013 No.1191280
File: 718 KB, 4128x3096, feh_012810_000001_20131110_185001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1191231

Well the thing is, the chips don't really look like they are connected to ANYTHING, they're just kind of suspended in glass.

It's really hard to make out in the picture, but here is a pic of the underside of the LCD screen assembly.

Anonymous Mon Nov 11 07:24:53 2013 No.1191626
File: 109 KB, 1018x714, Jvt1vAE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have a faulty famicom that i cannot fix, so i want to mod the controller so i can use it on a NES.

Would i be able to just take the cord from a NES controller and solder it to the Famicom controllers PCB?

Or do i have to swap the PCB's over?

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 11:20:22 2013 No.1191851 >>1191626 Just swap the PCB, they should be identical

>>	IaTM Mon Nov 11 12:59:55 2013 No.1191951 >>1191626 What's wrong with the Famicom?

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 14:16:25 2013 No.1192047 I have a nasty scratch/scuff on the bezel of my old CRT TV (see my thread for more info) any suggestions on how to remove this?

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 14:20:55 2013 No.1192054 >>1191951 >>1191626 I'm curious about this too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 17:20:40 2013 No.1192335 >>1191951 It just doesnt turn on. I have replace the fuse, voltage regulator and capacitor but it doesnt work. I have tested it with a multimeter and there is power going through but it doesnt reach the power switch.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 11 21:17:37 2013 No.1192780 File: 53 KB, 400x400, 1361788008589.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1192335 You've checked the switch, right?

Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:05:51 2013 No.1193132
File: 1.66 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215849.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

long story short, I bought a shit ton of consoles a few days ago for practically nothing since the guy thought they were all broken (some were). Anyways, one of them was a 7800. I checked the power cable as I know those are first to go, and found it had some breaks, which I have since repaired and know to be working. Problem now is that I cant get the video to display correctly. Usually, I just get these two skinny green bars on the screen, sometimes its all kinds of colorful static with a loud buzz, sometimes its just snow. It's important to note that these results happen regardless of whether or not I have a cart inserted.
I can almost gurantee its something wrong with the video output, but I don't know what exact part of it, or how to fix it.
>1/?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:07:21 2013 No.1193136 File: 1.25 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215904.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1193132 >2/?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:10:51 2013 No.1193139 File: 1.02 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215922.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1193136 >3/?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:11:21 2013 No.1193140 File: 1.16 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215956.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1193139 >4/5

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:13:52 2013 No.1193143 >>1193132 anything change when you use it with a 2600 game?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:14:51 2013 No.1193146 File: 1.05 MB, 3264x2448, 20131110_215930.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1193140 Once again, cartridge slot was empty on all of these photo's. Same results with a cartridge in though, so it doesn't really matter. Is it FUBAR'd? >5/5

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:15:52 2013 No.1193150 >>1193143 Can't get any to fit inside, allthough I assume it would be the same.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:40:51 2013 No.1193186 >>1192780 If it is the switch, where would i buy a replacement?

Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:44:53 2013 No.1193198

>>1193186
I'm not sure of the size of the famicom switch but what you're looking for is called a "slide switch" and can be found as most electronics shops.

Something like this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/S202031MS02QE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtHXLepoqNyVf60SUH14WI69zi0CfB6G%252b4%3d

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 00:46:23 2013 No.1193207 >>1193132 Shoot some electronics cleaner in the cart slot maybe? I know Mark from CGR struggles with the same issue, so I know your 7800 isn't toast.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 11:05:35 2013 No.1194014 >>1193132 Holy shit, I've got that exact same TV stand, had it for years.

Apartment Raptor Tue Nov 12 11:52:40 2013 No.1194070

I recently picked up several NES consoles on the cheap in various states of disrepair to use to tech myself to do basic repairs. Two of them I was able to get working by bending/cleaning the 72-pin and removing the peg for the lockout cheap. They're still showing the eccentricities common in the system, but they're both working about %70-%80. The last one I gave the same treatment, and while it's actually playing more consistently than the other two there is another issue. Sprites seem to be displaying partially in the wrong spot. For example, in SMB the top left 1/4 of a goomba will display halfway across the screen to the left. Same issue happens with enemies in Super C, except that I'm also getting half double images of the player sprites. I've opened it back up and realigned the 72-pin thinking it was maybe off it's tracks, and I've tried it on 2 different TVs with both AV and RF, but the problem persists. Anyone have any suggestions?

Anonymous Tue Nov 12 12:44:11 2013 No.1194138
File: 26 KB, 500x414, GBASP.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Eh, I know it is not retro, but I have problem with my GBA SP AGS 101. It turns on, but there is no sign of Gameboy Logo, just a blank screen, with fain buzzing from speaker. Is there a fix to it or should I get another one?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 12:44:11 2013 No.1194139 Game Gear dude here again. I bought this; hopefully I can cobble something together: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231093628535?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Anonymous Tue Nov 12 13:27:31 2013 No.1194220

>>1194138

I've owned an SP for about a decade and I've never heard of this. However, it IS a Game Boy, so I assume it's fixable and something is just dirty on the inside.

Invest in a tri-wing screwdriver, tear it down and give it a good cleaning. Also, make sure sure it has charge.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 20:55:53 2013 No.1195118 >>1193132 >>1193136 >>1193139 >>1193140 >>1193146 All these point to the graphics chip going bad. I had a 2600 that displayed these bars when ever I tried to turn it on. One fix people said might work was to re flow the solder on the graphics chip

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 12 20:56:54 2013 No.1195120 >>1194139 You have to keep in mind there's two or three versions of game gears out there. I think the screens are the same, but the layout might be different

Anonymous Wed Nov 13 18:16:58 2013 No.1196867

hey /vr/ I bought an NES a few months ago and slowly worked on it, first it wouldn't read most games (it mostly works when it wants too). I disabled the lockout chip and the blinking red light is gone and now all I get is a Blue screen most of the time. I've replaced the pin connectors and that still didn't fix it. anything else I can try?

This is the connector I bought,http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NINTENDO-NES-72-PIN-CONNECTOR-W-180-DAY-GUARANTEE-/380757551948?pt=US_Other_Video_Game_Accessories&hash=item58a6eb2b4c

Anonymous Wed Nov 13 19:20:18 2013 No.1197019

>>1191280
They literally are stuck to the glass. There are traces on the glass that connect the chip to the ribbon cable. The other end of the cable connects to components on the main board. You might have a bad connection or one of those components might be bad. You can do something about that. If the chip itself is bad you're out of luck.

>>1194138
Just get another one. They're cheap and fixing them is a pain in the ass. There are so many version with incompatible parts. Last I counted I had 6 broken ones and couldn't make a single working one out of the spare parts.

Anonymous Thu Nov 14 00:39:49 2013 No.1197734

>>1195118
>>1193207
>>1193143
7800 guy here, Turns out the contacts on the system's cartridge slot were/are dirty. I got Dig Dug to play by applying pressure to it, and the title screen (atari logo) on Galaxian to load for a few seconds, then it turns off automatically (no idea why).

Can I buy a replacement pin set for a 7800, or is it time to scrub it like one of my french girls.
If those can't/dont work, should I buy a broken 7800 and use its cartridge slot, or just get a new 7800 by itself (I allready have a working power cable)

Anonymous Thu Nov 14 04:27:02 2013 No.1198040

>>1197734
Well, if the 7800 is like the 2600 the cartage slot is hard wired right to the main board

Replacing it isn't really an option

You can use a find grit sand paper and try and LIGHTLY scrub the contacts or find a cleaner that might work on them. I heard something about a gun cleaner working on Atari contacts

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 14 18:11:36 2013 No.1199153 >>1198040 >I heard something about a gun cleaner working on Atari contacts well thats good to know, however I have several different kinds of gun cleaner. fun.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 14 21:48:01 2013 No.1199501 >>1199153 Yeah, I wasn't too sure what type it is I think it has the number 9 in the name Some one swore by it. Taking a little bit on a cloth and going in and out with it

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 14 21:49:01 2013 No.1199502 >>1199501 >>1199153 found it Hoppe's 9 is what they recommended

Anonymous Fri Nov 15 21:50:43 2013 No.1201806
File: 538 KB, 2592x1944, IMG038.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I wonder if there's an autosage function here. Regardless, I posted this in another thread and nobody bothered to answer. Also, tomorrow I'll try to rebuild the trace of my SNES controllers. I did use the catalog but didn't find this one.

It seems the other repair general thread has died. I'm the anon that had two faulty SNES controllers, so I was advised to rebuild the broken trace. I still haven't gotten the Solder Fluid so I had no progress since then. Thing is, I've just acquired a Master System and its RF adapter didn't work with my TV, all I got was a black screen or a very gray and ugly picture. As a solution, I used the RF adapter of my SNES and it worked. According to the seller, the original SMS's RF Adapter does work, so maybe its because I have a flat screen CRT that has composite input? Also, is this picture quality normal for it? There are some things in the picture and the black bar of the game. Is this just the standard picture of such old hardware?

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 15 21:52:14 2013 No.1201814 File: 1.77 MB, 2592x1944, IMG039.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1201806 Another shot for reference of its quality, but now with brighter colors.

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 16 01:45:53 2013 No.1202197 >>1201806 >>1201814 I'd wager it looks terrible because it's RF and not really suited for displaying anything more complex than 2600 graphics.

>>	Anonymous Sat Nov 16 04:10:46 2013 No.1202375 i have a question[repair related] my Gameboy pocket has a problem,when i turn it on,it turns off immediately, what is happening here?

Anonymous Sat Nov 16 16:34:10 2013 No.1203231

>>1202197
Indeed I think so, but also the RF switch was very old and just broke down when I put it into my VCR. So I've bought a new one and the image improved consistently.

>>1202375
If I were to take a wild guess, I'd say it's a blown fuse, but I think you should be more specific as to what happens or, ideally, open it up to see if there's something horribly wrong. In all actuality, I can't really help.

As for the SNES controller, I've gone out and prepared myself, thus buying a soldering iron and many other things, yet all I did to fix one controller was getting a pen and risking it to put some graffiti. If it is temporary, then I might venture into soldering a ridiculously small gap with some kind of copper wire, which the one I had was too wide to properly fit in. I'm not really considering rewiring the controller.

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 16:33:43 2013 No.1205520
File: 535 KB, 2592x1944, IMG041.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1203231
It's almost ludicrous, but both controllers were fixed with a simple graffiti pencil. Rebuilding the broken trace with a copper wire just isn't worth the effort because the gap is SO VERY SMALL. I damned previous owner or a technician tried to mend the trace with some kind of cloth, which was, err, ineffective as I got the controller broken regardless. Here's a pic of the mess he made: HE GLUED THE CLOTH TO THE PCB, it seems quite disgusting. Also, I spent so much money on soldering tools just to find a much more simple solution ;_; at least next week I'll get an old motherboard to start learning how to solder with it. The image is blurry but I'll describe it: there's some graffiti in the trace and what remains of the glue and cloth. Nonetheless, I'd like to thank the kind anons that helped me, albeit soldering wasn't really the way to go for this one case. Also, reassembly it properly is a damned pain, as the controller just feels stiff afterwards.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 17 16:40:13 2013 No.1205527 >>1205520 >graffiti graphite good work though

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 16:42:01 2013 No.1205531

>>1205520
If you just bridged the points that were broken, you're going to run into issues later when the pivot point starts rubbing the fix apart. That's where the initial damage came from.

Although you can probably glue something between the board and the pivot, if it's thin enough to fit.

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:06:01 2013 No.1205583

>>1205531
I'm in no way claiming to be an expert, but I'm pretty confident the graphite will resist the pressure of the pivot point as it isn't exactly 'solid' like the copper (it is pretty different and much thinner so to say), on the other hand it perfectly conducts electricity so even some remnants would suffice to bridge the gap and lead the signal. I admit I'm not certain of it myself and I considered so on a previous post, so if the worst comes down, I'll rewire the trace as an anon drew it out. For noting, I've played with the controller I fixed yesterday for about 5 hours up until now with no trouble, only my hideous assembly that made the superior triggers stiff to properly press. It does make me wonder if this problem happened due to a poor engineering or some sort of hideous act from the previous owner.

>>1205527
Indeed, anon, now I checked the dictionary, but as curiosity: in my language grafite=grafita, and both words resemble graffiti and graphite.

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:18:03 2013 No.1205621
File: 87 KB, 640x480, 98638891_88afc52577_z.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1205583
>It does make me wonder if this problem happened due to a poor engineering or some sort of hideous act from the previous owner.
It might just be poor design. With the official Nintendo controllers the traces completely avoid that area to prevent that from happening.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:30:02 2013 No.1205662 >>1203231 i'd post a photo but i left it at my mom's house when i visited but i will check the fuses

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:33:02 2013 No.1205673 >>1205662 i mean,i left my camera at my mom's house shit,i need to stop eating words

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:44:03 2013 No.1205696
File: 599 KB, 2592x1944, IMG043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1205621
I'm baffled, truth be told, not only did the damned previous owner scratch his name all over the console and controllers, but he also swapped the original PCB for a generic one. I'm quite confident the controller case itself is original, as it even seems aged and has the typical yellow color, but the board doesn't match the one depicted in your picture, which quite obviously is the official one. If the case is false, they did a damned good job because even I was fooled by it. It also explains why the controller is so stiff: it's not due to my reassembly, instead it's because of the mismatching PCB. What's worse is that it was horribly overpriced for the standard of many people, I think I payed about 40 dollars for it. On Mercado Livre the SNES+2 CONTROLLERS+MARIO WORLD goes for 230 reais, which I inaccurately convert to 115 dollars.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:50:34 2013 No.1205706 >>1205696 oh wow I thought this was for an aftermarket controller the whole time

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 17 17:55:02 2013 No.1205727 >>1205706 >>1205696 actually that might explain why the traces on the controller board got so damaged in the first place. The previous owner crammed everything in there when it wasn't supposed to fit

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 20:59:45 2013 No.1206092
File: 1.13 MB, 4000x3000, ribbons.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Okay, guys--I bought a Saturn modchip, and before I install it I just want to make certain I'm following the directions correctly. For reference, these are the directions I'm (trying to) follow: http://www.segastyle.com/model1V3.html

I have a Model 1, Version B (according to the guide), and am having my brother do the soldering. The only thing we're a little confused about are the ribbons. Along with the modchip I bought, the guy included 2 ribbon cables that come into play in Step 2.

I've attached a picture of how I think it's supposed to go but the picture doesn't show in the context of the system, only the chip. So basically you get rid of the existing ribbon cable, place the modchip on the shielding and connect one piece of cable from the chip to the bottom left slot, and the other cable from the chip to the slot under the disc mechanism, right?

Anonymous Sun Nov 17 21:02:32 2013 No.1206098
File: 820 KB, 3971x2787, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1206092
And for the soldering, you solder the cable connected to the modchip (it came like this for an extra dollar) following the blue arrow in my picture, to the red-circled power supply on the top half of the console in this picture and it should be good to go, no?

Anonymous Mon Nov 18 18:25:06 2013 No.1208136

>>1206092
>>1206098
Okay, just went with the gut and the bad boy is working. Playing a little Astral right now :)

Only question that remains is--my brother put some electrical tape on the TOP of the chip (where all the pieces are) to secure it to the system since we had to put it on top of the ribbon cable. Is this okay, or will the chip get fucked up? I know the directions said to insulate the bottom of the chip (which we did), but I don't know if it's okay to tape the guts of the chip as well

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 18:41:07 2013 No.1208190 I'm going to install a backlight for my original Gameboy. What's the best site to buy a backlight kit?

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 20:55:34 2013 No.1208496 >>1205621 >>1205696 There's more then one internal revision of the SNES controller

Anonymous Mon Nov 18 21:10:05 2013 No.1208536

>>1206092
The v3 modchip clearly says which ribbon goes to which slot.

Electrical tape is insulating, so no problems, other than the fact that it leaves a sticky fucking mess on whatever you put it on.

Also, make sure the V3 chip is NOT jumpered in that unit. It works if it is not jumpered, or jumpered to 0019. But the latter can cause CD audio noise.

>>1206098
It is simpler if you just solder to the little metal line that says FUSE just above the part where the power supply connects to the motherboard (you can just about solder to it without removing the giant heatsink, just unplug all the cords from that area and use solder grease). Because those fucking top-power-supply units are a bitch to reassemble.

Nice launch model Saturn by the way.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 21:28:34 2013 No.1208580 >>1208136 It should be alright. It might be prudent to put some tape all the way around the chip so none of the solder points touch the RF plating and short out

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 21:34:34 2013 No.1208590 File: 53 KB, 541x282, 7276335722_aa9b2f2da9_b.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1208496 I'm aware of a second that uses two chips instead of one but the layout of the pcb isn't that much different and it still has Nintendo's name on it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 21:41:34 2013 No.1208605 >>1208590 I think there's a third I'll have to check in my parts pile

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 22:39:05 2013 No.1208715 File: 578 KB, 4128x3096, feh_012145_000001_20131118_165043.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] I pieced together 2 not very functional Game Gears and got one that works!

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 22:42:04 2013 No.1208718 >>1208715 Cool nice work, you should be careful about the caps though they have a tendency to go bad on the gamegear

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 22:55:35 2013 No.1208734 >>1208718 I know, I replaced them all. Except on the power board. I didn't touch those.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 22:59:34 2013 No.1208743 >>1208734 oh cool good work

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 23:02:34 2013 No.1208749 >>1208734 Even the sound board? Nice man. Didn't happen to take pictures, did you?

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 18 23:04:04 2013 No.1208751 >>1208715 are the parts left over useful for anything?

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 19 08:50:56 2013 No.1209410 File: 136 KB, 600x489, 1354244058266.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1208190 >>1208190 Bump, if anyone has purchased a backlight kit for the DMG, let me know!

Anonymous Tue Nov 19 14:41:03 2013 No.1209913
File: 1.43 MB, 3096x4128, feh_005658_000001_20131119_135843.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1208743

Thanks!

>>1208749
>Even the sound board?

Yeah, but only on the first GG I messed with (that one had a bad screen). I took that one and put it in the second one because I didn't have the caps to do a second sound board.
>Didn't happen to take pictures, did you?

Nope, but I had to open it up to clean the buttons/membranes, so I took some. Not my best work, but soldering took about 20 minutes all told, so meh.

Anonymous Tue Nov 19 14:45:34 2013 No.1209924
File: 1.12 MB, 3096x4128, feh_005681_000001_20131119_135705.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Here's the sound board.

It was a MESS of old flux + cap juice that I couldn't really clean off before soldering, so it kind of got cooked to the board.

>>	Anonymous Tue Nov 19 14:54:03 2013 No.1209937 >>1209924 Not the best job, but not bad You might want to invest in some heat resistant tape for future cramped soldering jobs

>>	Anonymous Wed Nov 20 21:59:54 2013 No.1212815 Bumping for a new thread

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 21 15:44:25 2013 No.1214350 NEW THREAD >>1214343

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 21 16:05:55 2013 No.1214389 >>1182670 well, because it's not pictured... i'll ask... you ahve the rubber membrane for under the dpad right? sorry if you're not a total retard and didn't deserve this question

Anonymous Thu Nov 21 16:47:13 2013 No.1214461

>>1197734
Clean it. Check the connection to the PCB. A pin might have come loose. Sometimes the connectors in the socket will get flattened out and not make contact. You can pry them out a bit with a small screwdriver.

All that can be done without removing the slot. Removing the slot isn't hard. If you can get an exact replacement cool. If not you can make your own from any standard slot with the same spacing.

>>	Anonymous Thu Nov 21 16:51:14 2013 No.1214467 What do for a non-working Sega Saturn. It turns on but no sound or image show up on the tv.

Anonymous Thu Nov 21 23:39:07 2013 No.1215316

>>1214467
So I posted a thread about this, but that's because I didn't see this thread. This was it: >>1215009

In short: I replaced my PS1s laser assembly because it wasn't spinning discs. It still doesn't spin discs, however and I'm not experienced enough to know what is causing it.

Other info:
My dad put a mod chip in it a long time ago (90's).

The laser assembly's power port snapped off with a light tug of the power cord. I glued it back on, and it is getting power - I can see the laser eye moving up and down trying to find info.

So. Wat do.

>>	Anonymous Fri Nov 22 21:04:07 2013 No.1217480 >>1215316 Disk not spinning up is often due to a problem with the mod chip. On PSX and other consoles as well. Resolder it and see is that helps.

Anonymous Sun Nov 24 01:01:48 2013 No.1219945
File: 34 KB, 500x400, nintendo-snes-repair-service-b713.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>1111574
hey /vr/ my SNES just died on me the other day while playing LttP.
The screen just froze and got a fucked up image and started playing the intro theme.
I turned it off and ever since I cant get any games to come up on the screen.
I've tried cleaning the carts and the slot in the SNES, nothings worked.
I tested the AV cable on my N64 and it still works.
What's wrong with my SNES?
It still lights up and powers up when I turn it on and the screen reacts to me flipping the restart switch.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 24 01:13:49 2013 No.1219963 >>1219945 It's called being a faggot. Get fucked dude and go back to making feels threads on /adv/ or /r9gay/.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 24 01:18:19 2013 No.1219973 File: 17 KB, 550x550, 24oam8w.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>1219963 what the fuck is your issue you rude asshole?

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 24 01:21:49 2013 No.1219980 >>1219963 why would you post this? that's not even trolling that's just full on shitpost.

>>	IaTM Sun Nov 24 01:42:06 2013 No.1220014 >>1219963 For what purpose? >>1219945 Open it up and check for any loose solder joints on the cart connector (don't know why there would be, but it's happened with other consoles). Make sure nothing's shorted and that everything's clean.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 24 21:38:40 2013 No.1221810 >>1219945 If its an early internal model of the SNES, you can remove the cartage slot from the board and clean under it

>>	Evan 0018-1279-2784 (Pansear, (...) Sun Nov 24 22:02:11 2013 No.1221862 Hey, guys. What's the best way to open up a virtual boy for repairs? I have a gamebit, but it still won't reach the security bits. Any tips?

Anonymous Sun Nov 24 22:12:10 2013 No.1221883

>>1219945
This is usually due to a solder joint coming loose. Quite often these are the bits that were hand soldered after the board was mostly finished. Open it up. Look for wires, out of place components (often taped down), obviously hand soldered things, and of course things with one leg in the air.
Other than that it will take a bit of diagnostics to track down what's wrong.

>>	Anonymous Sun Nov 24 22:18:11 2013 No.1221897 >>1221862 You mean you need a longer gamebit?

>>	Evan 0018-1279-2784 (Pansear, (...) Sun Nov 24 23:45:17 2013 No.1222053 >>1221897 Basically, yes.

>>	Anonymous Mon Nov 25 01:03:39 2013 No.1222205 >>1222053 So what was the point of posting?

Anonymous Mon Nov 25 06:18:10 2013 No.1222718

>>1222053
Well then, yeah, the best solution is to get a longer gamebit. Depending on the bit and tools you have now you may be able to hack together an extension for it. If it's too big to fit down the hole you'll need a new one. Just get the longest thing you can. You will never run into a situation where you need something shorter.

Anonymous Mon Nov 25 23:45:51 2013 No.1224549

>Buy a SegaCD that doesn't power on
>Expecting it to be a fuse problem
>Fuse looks like it's already been replaced a dozen times
>Metal shielding on the inside is bent up
>I'm probably the 5th or 6th person to try it

onto the wonderful world of cap kits

i will make you work damnit

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