Arcade controllers thread

[Anonymous No.10163226]

Let's have an arcade controller/fightstick thread.

Discuss layouts, cases, buttons, levers and PCBS. Do you go the full DIY route or do you prefer to buy a controller from a manufacturer? Which customizations, if any, have you done or would be willing to do to your current controllers?

Post pictures of 'em, specially if you went the DIY route and feel proud of the result.

[Anonymous No.10163231]

I'll never understand how JLF became the standard stick when the LS-32 feels way better.

[Anonymous No.10164579]

>>10163226
>>10163231
I really like how Seimitsu sticks feel for games, but I think the Sanwa buttons have nicer sensitivity and smoother feel. The button layout in older Sega Astro City has this more comfortable curve to the buttons like this Hori, where I changed out the buttons to blue, but back then the stick placement is too close to the buttons and would be more comfortable spaced away like in more modern layouts. For my specific preferences which cannot be found in the wild, I'd have to custom make such things. Are there any good places to learn and use C&C machines on the cheap?

[Anonymous No.10164971]

I went from using a JLF stick to an LS-40. Talk about a huge change. The ls-40 was used a lot on old neo geo cabs and its about as far from the jlf as you can get, super short stick, short throw etc. I tried all kinds of jlf mods with different springs and actuators and none of them tightened it up as much as i wanted.
I mostly play shooting games and the ls-40 is pretty comfy for those.
I want to try an ls-56 but i haven't gotten around to it.
Anyway try swapping joysticks, check out new ones, its fun, they arent that expensive and they make a huge difference in feel.

[Anonymous No.10164997]

>>10163226
I used to play Sensible World of Soccer on the Amiga, it's my favourite game ever, a few years back I got some old joysticks and a converter cable, it was shit, really unresponsive stick, buttons etc.
What would be the cheapest and best route to build a half decent joystick for one person?
I like the sticks without the big ball on, iv no idea which ones are which, but any pointers would be much appreciated.

[Anonymous No.10165009]

pic related was my sensible soccer stick of choice back in the day, I'd like to make a more robust version of this basically.

[Anonymous No.10165010]

I have a new post-panasonic LS-32 and several of the older ones from when they were still called Matsushita.
There is a pretty big difference in feel between them, but I think most of that difference comes from the main guide being worn-in on the old ones.
I can hold them up to the light side by side and see where the actuator has dug into the corners and ground it away over time. This has lead to a rounding out of the guide and makes the gate feel less square.
But it also creates a better feeling and I can do much better in fighting games with the guide I consider to have the medium amount of wearing in.
I have some other guides that are more heavily worn-in and those are so rounded off that it becomes a negative.

All of the above seems to be the overall sentiment among Japanese arcade players, who say that an LS-32 becomes better with time. I once read an anecdote from a player who said in the past he and his friends would buy new guides and artificially wear them in by caring or filing out the corners to see where they could find the sweet spot.

[Anonymous No.10165017]

First appearance of LS-25 in April 1987 issue of Game Machine magazine.
This joystick would be modified slightly to create the LS-32 in the early 90s.

[Anonymous No.10165073]

>>10165017
This Saturn Hori stick is the only stick I own. Is there any adapter out there that will let me use it with my PC for emulation?

[Anonymous No.10165081]

>>10163226
This Saturn Hori stick is the only stick I own. Is there any adapter out there that will let me use it with my PC for emulation?

[Anonymous No.10165090]

>>10165081
Yes.
https://www.raphnet-tech.com/products/saturn_to_usb_adapter_v2/index.php

[Anonymous No.10165096]

>>10164997
>>10165009
I should probably add, this would be to use connected to a pc.

[Anonymous No.10165109]

>>10164997
Just buy one of those amiga joysticks that use an arcade joystick and replace the balltop with a battop
The amiga competition pro should be easy to swap the flared shaft cover with a straight one and the balltop with a battop
You can get the parts from some arcade supply site light fightcade or paradise arcade for a couple dollars

[Anonymous No.10165134]

>>10165090
>Out of stock
Damn, I'll keep my eye on it.

[Anonymous No.10165209]

>>10165109
>Just buy one of those amiga joysticks that use an arcade joystick and replace the balltop with a battop
Thanks for reply, I came back and added that I'm emulating sensible soccer on pc so doesn't have to be a kempston.
My ideal would be a single base/case roughly the size of something like a competition pro, with a battop (thanks for teaching me the word), on top, with nice robust parts like I'd get from an arcade stick.
I don't know if anybody builds a base/case around that size?

[Anonymous No.10165270]

>>10163226
Sensible soccer anon here, decided I'll get a mayflash f300 elite and will stick a battop on it.

[Anonymous No.10165347]

>>10163226
I wish there were a repository of information about which sticks/buttons were stock in arcade cabinets. So many arcades replaced their parts that you can't tell what was standard. What iL/Happ model stick and buttons were in the big red Neo Geo cabs, for instance? Or a Mortal Kombat machine? I've seen both Happ Supers and Happ Competitions in them.

[Anonymous No.10165638]

>>10165347
>What iL/Happ model stick and buttons were in the big red Neo Geo cabs, for instance?
Originally Industry Lorenzo Compact 8-way microswitch joystick, sold in NA under the Happ branding. Not manufactured my Happ.
Closest thing you can buy new today is a Happ Super joystick.
>Or a Mortal Kombat machine?
Wico Conical Joystick with Improved Actuator Model 1.
Closest thing you can buy today is an Industry Lorenzo Eurostick (competition joystick).


> I've seen both Happ Supers and Happ Competitions in them.
Those are the common and closest replacements, but imo are inferior to the original OEM equipment.

[Anonymous No.10165641]

>>10165638
By the way the Wico has a harder spring than IL imo.

[Anonymous No.10165672]

>>10164971
You'll be disappointed by the ls-56. Feels cheap compared to 32/40 and squeaks like hell.

[Anonymous No.10165846]

>>10165638
>>10165641
Thanks. I'm surprised about Wico. I associated them with those really rubbery stiff sticks you'd find on cabinets like The Simpsons.

[Anonymous No.10165862]

I took one of these and...

[Anonymous No.10165869]

>>10165862
...turned it into this. ls-32 and seimitsu buttons. I got the brawlstick for $15 brand new. shirtly after the price skyrocketed where user ones were going for $50+.

but last time I checked out goodwill these and the other SFIV sticks were starting to show up again at dirt cheap prices again so keep a look out.

[Anonymous No.10165875]

>>10165869
stock ls-32 spring or heavy?

[Anonymous No.10165893]

>>10165875
theres a heavy spring? I know you can use two stock springs

[Anonymous No.10165895]

>>10165893
You might get away with using an LS-56 spring.

[Anonymous No.10166117]

>>10165869
Considering how overproduced Mad Catz sticks were (seriously they seemed to make a new one for every game that came out for a good few years) I'm surprised they aren't very cheap.

[Anonymous No.10166228]

I have a Hori RAP Soulcalibur VI, so I'm used to the Hayabusa stick. What are the differences between the JLF and the LS-32?

[Anonymous No.10166250]

>>10166228
LS-32 has a slightly smaller deadzone and engage. Tighter spring and levered switches makes it feel much smoother. Solid base as well like what you are used on the Hayabusa. If you’re used to the Hayabusa then you’d definitely like the LS-32 more than the JLF.

[Anonymous No.10166540]

I want to play lots of shmuos and action games. Unfortunately my stick can't very well seat a LS-32, but its very easy to get a JLF in there.

What are some of the mods or parts I can try to get the JLF alittle more suitable for shmups? I've heard someone say their modded JLF feels better for shmups than an LS-32 but I kind of believe that's bullshit

[Anonymous No.10166543]

>>10165081
I use the Mayflash adapter, it works but it's not xinpunt, the PSP emulator doesn't work with it, everything else I tried worked fine.

[Anonymous No.10166549]

>>10165869
I like it. Shame about the screwsheads being visible from the top though.

[Anonymous No.10166554]

Still the only stick I own. Had to switch out the plungers to be happy with it but other than that I good stick out of the box.

[Anonymous No.10166559]

>>10166554
After modding. Nothing too crazy here.

[Anonymous No.10166575]

Any anons have advice or ideas about building a wooden, MAS-style HAPP stick case? There aren't hardly any options it feels like. I did find this though:
https://www.harumancustoms.com/products/stand-alone-controllers/the-fighter

Rather than shell out around $100 shipped, I'm wondering if I can just somehow get some wood cut on my own. Should I or is it basically $100 worth of work anyway?

[Anonymous No.10166576]

>>10166549
yeah nothing that can be done about that. impossible to get a good clean wrap applied with it screwed in, and then there are dimples where the screws are underneath so it was better just to see the screws.

[Anonymous No.10166613]

>>10166576
It's actually not that bad on your particular design since their color is so close to the wrapping you chose. Overall a definitve improvement over the original design.

[Anonymous No.10166648]

Does anyone even use screw-in buttons? What's their point? Compatibility with a thicker mounting plate?

[Anonymous No.10166706]

>>10166575
It depends on your desire for a slick, professional looking finished product vs something that is just function, as well as your own creativity and improvisation.

I am 100% certain you could go to a store like Lowe's or Home Depot and find some pieces of lumber, and then have them cut them to length for you to glue or screw together at home.
Then all you would need is to take a hole saw kit to it to drill out your button and joystick holes.
I am very confident this case would cost less than $40 total including the cost of the hole saw kit.
Assuming you can borrow a power drill from someone, otherwise include the cost of rental.

[Anonymous No.10166797]

>>10166706
And even paying for something like a vinyl siding it would still be cheaper. But then some custom cut plexi and its starting to get close to that $100 point with onoy benefit being probably better quality wood..

I think you also need a wood router. HAPP sticks need a square socket routed out for you to fit your stick into I believe, else it will come out the top too short.

Seems totally worth it if I can borrow the tools or knew someone with carpentry tools or something.

[Anonymous No.10166824]

>>10166797
>HAPP sticks need a square socket routed out for you to fit your stick into I believe, else it will come out the top too short.
You don't.
On the original MAS sticks they are not routed out.
However, depending on how accurate you want to be to a particular cabinet design you could possibly want it to be routed out.

I'm trying to find a photo of the underside of an original second revision Big Blue to see what it has...

[Anonymous No.10166852]

So I did a little research and found out

>original SF2CE Big Blue's mount the joystick flush with the thin metal CP
>at least some original later revision Big Blue's have a hole routed out for the joystick

But I also found some that had the joystick mounted flush.
Whether these were operator made repros or not I don't know.
It would have been common practice to convert some Big Blue's made for beat'em ups into fighting game cabinets.

[Anonymous No.10166874]

Here's a pic of a SF2CE-era Big Blue CP underside.
I feel a bit foolish now about all my posts in the past saying arcade operators didn't know how to mount the joystick at the correct height in SF2 conversions.

[Anonymous No.10166895]

>>10166874
Notice how it has the joystick shaft mounted on the second groove. This would change the behavior and feel of it. It would require more force to engage but also have less deflection. The throw would also feel different.
Hmm...

[Anonymous No.10166904]

>>10166797
You would not need a router to accomplish this.
You buy two pieces of 1/2" thick wood and sandwich them together, with the bottom part cut into four pieces to make the requisite mounting hole for the joystick. I am sure you could find some 1/2" thick finished boards that could be straight cut by the staff at the store to accomplish this.
I think you could get away with not needing clamps for this when you go to glue it all together. Just something very heavy to sit on top.

[Anonymous No.10166938]

>>10166904
damn, its sounding even more feasible. They'd cut the wood at the hardware store?
>>10166852
So SFII cabs had only a metal panel mounting then, so the shafts must've been really tall?

Here's a video from the new MAS cases they sell for a ridiculous $400 (without parts).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpwHzp9SbrA
Looks like very minimal amount of routing and I can't tell how deep that is.

[Anonymous No.10166954]

>>10166852
On factory-made Big Blue control panels the joystick is recessed.

[Anonymous No.10166958]

>>10166938
>They'd cut the wood at the hardware store?
At a big box store like Lowes or Home Depot they will.

[Anonymous No.10166960]

MAS Super Pro Stick is not recessed.

[Anonymous No.10166967]

>>10166938
There's another option here you may not be aware of.
In the mid-2000s a joystick called the Pelican Real Arcade was released.
This joystick will fit common American-style arcade parts and it is actually routed out to be about 1/2" thick for the joystick mounting space. There are some on ebay for around $75 shipped.
Make an offer of $50 on them and see what happens?

[Anonymous No.10166971]

>>10166967
Interior after someone has modded one with new parts.

[Anonymous No.10166994]

>>10166575
Doing any woodwork is gonna be expensive, people are dreaming if they think they'll do a case as good as MAS for cheap without proper tools.
$100 for a copcat MAS wood case is a great deal, if you can buy it and having a wood case is essential then go for it.

[Anonymous No.10167015]

Remember there is a 1/4" thick piece of lexan that goes over a big blue control panel. So if you combine that with the 1/8" thick metal control panel you get 3/8" mounting thickness for your home stick if you don't use a clear overlay.
The Pelican Real Arcade stick is probably right on the money for joystick mounting height, but has the wrong button layout.

[Anonymous No.10167224]

>>10166967
thanks anon. I completely forgotten about these. I may try, even though I vastly prefer a straight 6 button American layout for HAPP, but price is good.

[Anonymous No.10167260]

>>10167015
I don't know shit about woodworking. Would there not be a risk that at 3/8" drilled wood thickness, after years of handling the wood could start to crack? specially since you're mounting on particle woods and don't have a metal top

[Anonymous No.10167340]

>>10167260
Very unlikely if you used a plywood. That stuff is extremely strong.

[Anonymous No.10167356]

This is what you really need.
They make an 18" version as well.
Body sold separately.
https://allfightsticks.com/products/14-il-happ-button-panels-1?_pos=2&_sid=00cad95e7&_ss=r

[Anonymous No.10167357]

..

[Anonymous No.10167817]

I have a mayflash that I put weeb idol art on. While I like it a lot, I really want one that has concave buttons since thats what I grew up with over sanwa buttons so I might get a new one

[Anonymous No.10167824]

>>10167817
They make concave button plungers for sanwa buttons.

[Anonymous No.10168078]

My main stick has a Nobi lever on it right now. I think it's a great design but I hate how expensive it is.

[Anonymous No.10168098]

>>10168078
Grip is metal?

[Anonymous No.10168118]

>>10168098
Yeah although I've replaced mine with a clear battop and a lighter spring because I have an old man wrist. The big selling point is the shaft which doesn't rotate at all and feels very precise even though it's basically just a normal Seimitsu stick otherwise.

[Anonymous No.10168127]

>>10166648
they don't screw in do they? They push through, and you screw a lock-ring onto them to hold them in place. or are you talking about something else? Those ones work with thicker panels as they push-ins will only to to about 4.5mm thick, though they claim 5mm IIRC.

[Anonymous No.10168275]

>>10166540
any opinions about this?

[Anonymous No.10168327]

>>10168118
Sounds interesting. I can see how that might feel different and more like you're in control.

>>10168127
Yeah. Those are the ones. Aren't they usually refered to as screw-ins? Personally only ever tried snap-ins.

[Anonymous No.10168605]

anybody else have one of these? this is my first and only arcade stick, I like it but one thing I was not expecting is how it's harder to tell which direction the stick is facing than when using a d-pad. it's like I don't have a frame of reference. would an octagon gate help? and more importantly, if anyone else has one of these, is the factory stick ok to use with an octagon gate? it has a lot of slack and I'm worried it's going to make hitting diagonals harder.

[Anonymous No.10168625]

>>10168605
Pretty sure anyone who ever had one of those dies from tidepods. just sayan

[Anonymous No.10168634]

>>10168625
bot post

[Anonymous No.10168706]

>>10168634
Literally everyone knows you're an NPC

[Anonymous No.10168729]

>>10168605
Some factory chink sticks don't allow to change the gate. I have this stick but I swapped out the factory lever ASAP

[Anonymous No.10168803]

>>10168729
give me the qrd then

what did you replace it with? JLF I'm guessing? how much better is it?

[Anonymous No.10168862]

Here's my stick. It currently uses all Sanwa parts (I wanted Hori Hayabusa parts but they're always out of stock) and my case is by AllFightSticks. I thought this was my end game stick, but I'm done with the heavy frame and in the market for something lighter. Sure, it's gonna last forever, but man the weight gets to you.

>>10166575
Honestly, MAS-style sticks are pretty cool. There is currently an homage series but I feel like it's too expensive even for what it is. If I were to build a dedicated retro fighting game stick, I'd use that 'The Fighter' case you linked and call it a day. The description mentions they offer alterations for Japanese parts which is a big plus for me.

>>10166967
I remember reading that these killed the rumble line on the PS2 itself so none of your controllers will ever rumble with that unit.

[Anonymous No.10168864]

>>10168862
oops forgot to post

[Anonymous No.10169368]

>>10168803
https://www.reddit.com/r/8bitdo/wiki/arcadestick/

[Anonymous No.10169371]

>>10167356
This looks pretty amazing. I'm now tempted to get some wood, this and just get started on it.

What material surrounds all the wood of thr MAS stick? Is it like a vinyl? and where do you even get a vinyl wood wrap like that?

[Anonymous No.10169392]

>>10166540
If you're forced to use a JLF then mod it with the kowal oversize actuator and a spare ls-32 spring. The spring you can probably skip but the kowal actuator will help a ton. Now if you REALLY want to fine tune it then get the official Sanwa pro mod kit and use the blue actuator, yellow spring and the red gate. Not sure if they even sell that anymore but it's a solid buy if you can find it and fun to experiment with.

>>10166967
Ah good memories. This was my first stick back in the day, bought it for cvs2.

[Anonymous No.10169531]

I'm planning to build some basic arcade stick with scrap of wood that is lying around my garage. SO here is my question: How deep should I mount my arcade stick in the wood? I will be milling form inside, with my palm router. Standard steel pale provided with the stick. Top panel heigh is 1cm.
I'm also guessing that I need to leave about 3-4mm for buttons to SNAP?

[Anonymous No.10169614]

>>10169531
There are several pics in this thread. Make up your mind and live with the results.

>>10167357
>>10166971
>>10166960
>>10166954
>>10166938

[Anonymous No.10169615]

>>10167356 looks great but
how expensive is getting plexi cut like this? Plexi doesn't really add any durability but you get to put art under it

[Anonymous No.10170749]

>>10169531
It depends. You need to answer some questions first.

1. Eastern or Western controls?
2. Favorite games and genres?

[Anonymous No.10170770]

>>10170749
I have a few joys and can build a few sticks if I want
1) ls32, jlf, suzo 500, quanba gravity
2) shmups, fighting games (darkstalkers, kof mostly), metal slugs (in that order)

[Anonymous No.10170802]

>>10170770
Okay, you have a good base to start from.
You need to find data on how far above the surface of the control the joystick shaft should be before it gets to the bottom of the ball top.
Do you plan on using a plexiglass cover?

[Anonymous No.10170813]

>>10170802
no wood only. I would like to use metal top but I don't have any metal sheets or tools for metal work

[Anonymous No.10170819]

>>10170813
oh yeah, what grease for sticks without breaking the bank? No really fond of importing those

[Anonymous No.10170938]

I have one of these RAP4 sticks. I already put in an octagonal gate, 2lb spring, and 1mm actuator sleeve.

However, I still hate the buttons. I know Sanwa is considered the best but is there some kind of happ-style I could put in here? The stick still feels off with these stock buttons

[Anonymous No.10170951]

>>10170938
I have it other way: not liking the stick but liking the buttons

[Anonymous No.10170993]

>>10170951
really?
They don't actuate correctly. The buttons feel super wobbly. I never feel that the input is made if I'm not directly in the center of it

[Anonymous No.10171037]

>>10170993
No problem with mine but I have that switch version of this stick and google is telling me that V hayabusa so dunno if they're the same.
I personally think manufactures should stop using "in house" switches for cherry mx compatible ones just for the sake of convenience. I also added picrelated as my connector because fuck that door nad hardwired cable.

[Anonymous No.10171070]

>>10164579
LS-32 and OBSF-30 is a normal arcade setup.

If you want more gap between stick and buttons then go to Noir instead of Sega, or one of those bootleg layouts. Curve is a little different but it's close.

>>10165672
One of my JLFs squeaks a hell of a lot more than my LS-56 if it does at all. I really didn't find the 56 anywhere near as extreme of a change as it's hyped up as, but maybe that's just because it matched up to my ancient preconceptions of what a stick would be like before everyone starts using a JLF and finds out how limp they are.

The one I'm really curious about is the LSQ-40 but it -isn't- cheap and my impression is it's really ideal if you're looking for something closer to a standard JLF while silent rather than if you like the shorter throw Seimitsus.

[Anonymous No.10171076]

>>10170813
With wood only it's easier to not use a plexi.

So if you were to use an LS-32 for instance your lever shaft should measure 24mm from the surface of the control panel to the bottom of the ball top. Subtract the thickness of the s-mounting plate and that will be the thickness of the wood you need.

[Anonymous No.10171103]

>>10171076
>24mm
damn that is not a lot. Also I don't have s-mounting plate.
Thanks anyway

[Anonymous No.10171109]

>>10166648
Snap in tabs wear out pretty fast if you ever remove them
>Compatibility with a thicker mounting plate?
Also that, yeah.

Screw ins are in theory a better design as far as ease of use, durability, and compatibility but the ring makes them wider which has become more of an issue with Vewlix 8 button layout home controllers than they ever were with old 6 button arcade layouts, plus if something is off they aren't self-tightening like snap-ins.

[Anonymous No.10171187]

>>10171109
That's true about the screw-ins having a larger footprint. I've got two cabs using screw-ins (old dimple top butons, admittedly, because that's what iw anted) and when putting together or modifying, the buttons have to be installed in order, and the rings filed down a bit on two sides or they don't fit.

[Anonymous No.10171252]

>>10171070
>Noir instead of Sega
I can barely tell the difference between the two. What cabs used Noir?

[Anonymous No.10171253]

>>10171252
It's a Namco layout, the cabinets were named Noir.

[Anonymous No.10171274]

>>10171253
Ah I see. So Namco and Sega used similar but not identical layouts. Then Taito had Vewlix.

[Anonymous No.10171357]

>>10169615
How much does google cost?

[Anonymous No.10171407]

I never had a standard Sanwa or Seimitsu snap-in button have the tabs break off.
But I've read in many places that the clear or translucent ones snap off almost immediately after one remove. It's something to do with the formula they use to get those colors.

[Anonymous No.10171432]

>>10171407
I've had to bend them back out which is...worrying let's say. Depends how hard you have to push them to get the button out as well.

[Anonymous No.10171442]

>>10171070
That's good, but typically manufacturers tend to stay with one brand for the whole stick. That does look closer to the spacing I'd like, but I have seen it set wider in other sticks: https://youtu.be/D5ykGYSPPaA

[Anonymous No.10171880]

>>10166540
There's the Otto DIY stuff but it's a little pricey. You can mod it with Cherry switches if you like those. Oversized actuator plus octogate is probably the simplest and cheapest option and improves the stick a lot for shooters since it brings the performance closer to what you'd get with a levered stick. Trying out different springs isn't a bad idea either.

[Anonymous No.10172874]

bump, this thread is worth saving

[Anonymous No.10173012]

>>10171407
Translucent plastic is almost always more brittle than its opaque counterpart. On top of that, the translucent models are put together differently from the regular models. The insert or plunger consists of three parts iirc instead of just one solid piece. As a result of this, they rattle when the stick is moved, sound like ass when activated and even feel like shit because the very top part that you touch can be twisted back an forth a little bit. I hate them with a passion and don't think they feel like a quality product whatsoever. You saying that even the tabs break off more easily just solidifies my opinion that one simply shouldn't buy them, or at the very least switch out the insert for an opaque one. Which is what I did here >>10166559 I dunno, maybe some of these complaints can be eliviated a little by putting custom art inside to make them less rattley.

[Anonymous No.10173552]

My criticisms of MAS Super Pro Sticks, having bought one directly from MAS in 2001.

1. The controls were soldered instead of using quick disconnects.
2. Instead of using a separate ground wire for each switch a single strange of bare aluminum wiring was daisy chained across every single input including the joystick.
3. Each wire was extremely short with no slack at all between them, making it difficult to swap button colors or types by removing the switch from the button without desoldering. Even if you desoldered it was still a pain to work with such short tolerances.
4. The PCB* was crudely screwed directly into the wood inside the casing with no stand-offs.
5. The bottom panel was made of cheap cork-board instead of the same MDF as the rest of the stick. It was already warped when I received the product brand new.
6. The feet of the stick were screwed directly into the wood with cheap drywall screws with no threaded insets. After a few removals these got very loose. Many players ended up removing these and just taping the bottom of the case on with duct tape.
7. The stick did not sit level even when brand new. I replaced the rubber feet with some nicer ones I got off of an alarm clock that worked better.
8. The joystick body is not recessed and thus mounts at an incorrect height compared to a Big Blue cabinet.
9. The T-molding started to come loose in a matter of weeks.
10. MAS stole the name "Super Pro Stick" from a Japanese company called Sigma that made better products than them.
11. Controller cable was simply stapled to the interior of the wood casing.
12. The Dreamcast PCB chip would blow the DC controller board if you paired it with certain 3rd party controllers like the Astro Pad.
13. "MAS Systems" is redundant. MAS stands for Multi-Arcade System.

"Multi-Arcade Systems Systems".

[Anonymous No.10173553]

*in the early days of MAS they wouldn't even use a PCB. They soldered directly to a chip glued into the case.

[Anonymous No.10173561]

The original "Super Pro Stick".

[Anonymous No.10173584]

Extra: due to the way western-style joystick levers are designed you have to use a MAS stick on the floor or a table.
You can't use it adequately in your lap because it will just go flying everywhere when you try to move the joystick.
But sitting on the floor using a MAS stick sucks. You're bent over at an awkward angle and then you're having to crane your neck up at the screen.
It's the opposite of ergonomic in every way and will get uncomfortable after a half hour or less.

[Anonymous No.10173587]

>>10171442
Did you buy that directly from MAS or on the second hand market?

[Anonymous No.10173992]

There are at least three official mounting heights for the LS-32 from what I can find.

>original

[Anonymous No.10174017]

>Flat
Note the stick will sit about 1.6mm lower in this setup because of the SE mounting plate presence.

[Anonymous No.10174060]

>SS mount
Due to the way panels with the S-mounting bracket are made there is an additional layer of thickness between the SS-plate and the control panel so you would lose another 1.5mm of height.
AFAIK This is the most common method of mounting in Japanese arcade cabinets these days and has been for a long time.

[Anonymous No.10174087]

There is one more unofficial way to mount and that is to drill straight through the control panel and flat mount the joystick using carriage bolts and a SE plate (or countersunk machine screws and no plate).
This actually works just as well as the others and won't affect gameplay, but it is perhaps aesthetically less than ideal.

[Anonymous No.10174116]

This is one of the reasons I like the Mayflash F500 series so much because it is one of the few sticks that has the proper original mount included in the control panel.
So once you take the mounting plate off the LS-32 you can mount the body of the joystick directly to the Mayflash control panel.
Then thickness of the plexi on top of that is almost exactly the same as if you had used the SS plate to mount it in an arcade machine.
So the F500 is one of the best cases to put an LS-32 into. Only issue is you have to remove all the buttons every time you want to take the lever body out to get to the screws. (Unless you drill some access holes through the top of the plexi, which is overkill and I would not recommend).

[Anonymous No.10174150]

>>10174060
I had to autism this shit last year, and an LS-32 with an SS plate is supposedly .04mm taller to the bottom of the shaft threads than a JLF with a flat plate. Direct mounting would probably be good for an LS-40 which is going to be either 2.5mm shorter or 2.5mm taller otherwise.

I'd say 1.6mm doesn't matter but I do recall there being a marginal difference between having the original sticker or art and plexi which are both supposed to be flush with the case vs bare plate when I still had a JLF in my Hori. Even with it wrapped and an LS-56 that should only make back up a fraction of the difference, or maybe I'm forgetting a difference in the Seimitsu balltops or something.

[Anonymous No.10174187]

Just measured my LS-32 SS OEM mounting plate (not reproduction or 3rd party) and it's right about 1.5mm thick.
Assuming the same thickness for an average Japanese control panel you lose 3mm from "original" mounting to "SS" mounting.

The F500 acrylic covering is about 3mm thick.
So it's right on the money for the most common* setup in Japan today when you do install directly to the CP.

*I don't work at a Japanese arcade.

[Anonymous No.10174325]

How do you know what stick cases are suitable to mount a LS-32? I know JLFs drop into most cases on the market though.

I'm looking for a case I can keep an eye out for on auctions, preferrably with an astro-city like layout I think

[cute mystic girls edition: No.10174407]

>>10171442
>>10173552
its a piece of ARCADE HISTORY
it will never be created again
i hope you cherish that shit paperanon

any and all criticisms should be ignored
of course using era-specific hardware will have caveats
the people buying these types of high end ultra-rare sticks are historical archivists
it is the physical manifestation of the 90s
the simpler times, when things were good
i hope one day our children can live in such glorious days

beyond jealous
i hope you never sell anonkun


>>10165869
look clean
nice work
>>10165081
raphnet adapters are great
he is honest about his latency times
i have never had a single issue

>>10165009
its comfy
i have a few that are "tight"
a few that are "loose"
hyperkins remake is decent i use it the most
but i think its mostly to save wear\tear on my real antiques

astrociggy mini usb + brooks dreamcast\saturn adapter + fenrir\gdemu = decent arcade library
still getting into the atomiswave ports

[Anonymous No.10174421]

>>10174407
kek ignore the namefield
i was helping some fags on \vp\
it will take weeks\months for them to get the medals without me


>M-M-MUH gaymerfingahz
ok real world usage?
they're great, "better" than seimitsu\sanwa\qanba?
depends on your use case or preferences
i like them for shmups as the doubletap is fast af
they look slick in person too
however i would be happy with sanwa even though they are more "slidey\loose" in the chamber
all my physical arcade cabs have siemitsu except for one
make of this what you will

[Anonymous No.10174423]

what size actuator would anon recommend to make a JLF feel better for shmups?

[Anonymous No.10174425]

>>10174325
Almost all of them that come with a JLF can get it in there via the SS mounting plate.
You may lose 1.5 to 3mm from standard height depending on plexi thickness.

[Anonymous No.10174430]

>>10174407
>its a piece of ARCADE HISTORY
>any and all criticisms should be ignored
Documenting the flaws are as much a part of history as celebrating what made it great.

I still have my MAS stick and plan on never selling it.

[Anonymous No.10174434]

>>10174407
>>10174421
sleeper cheap rec?
NEO FUCKIN GEO ASP PRO STICK
hylo mod? cool complete neo library +cps1\2
solid case, neat aesthetics, cheap\easy to mod
works with wangblows, mister, pie, etc
no faggy pcb installs required
buttons are actually not THAT bad out of the box stock
i almost felt bad removing them for "no reason"
but i had spare white sanwas laying around
(EXACTLY 8) fuck it

stick isnt the "best" but its serviceable
your mileage may vary if youre trying to blip in something vintage
>turbo
>enough buttons on the side for faggy emus
>werks with the faggy mini arcades when normies come over
8.7\10
i wish i had two of them

[Anonymous No.10174439]

>>10174423
Stock.

[Anonymous No.10174440]

>>10174407
>>10174421
>>10174434
>>10174430
good to hear
archive\hoard it forever
if i had the spare cash\room i would pounce on a pair


>qanba metallic omcroms
or whatever theyre called
so far they're holding up fine
db15\supergun sticks
the rest of the casing\parts are ass
do not recommend aliexpress for neosticks kek

although thrashing them when i modded them kinda makes them look like every real neo cab i have ever seen in person (thrashed\damaged\heavy play)

[Anonymous No.10174447]

>>10174440
You should build your own MAS-style arcade stick instead of buying one tbqh. That's what a lot of players (including myself) did back then. Maybe I will pull it out of storage in a while and take some photos.

[Anonymous No.10174529]

>>10174447
i thought about going this route
but i dont want it creaky\rickety
i want solid wood & support for 2P
im not a woodworker and dont have the tools
nor do i want to buy them. i rent a small duplex i cant be getting sawdust everywhere kek

i did order some custom woodwork for my modded arcade cabs and they turned out pretty good


a protip = use peel and stick wallpaper vinyl from ebay\amazon turns any shitty project into decent looking furniture on the cheap

[Anonymous No.10174771]

>>10174439
I doubt that

[Anonymous No.10174807]

>>10174529
>vinyl wallpaper
Any reason I couldn't get some of that and put it on plywood arcade stick box?Thinking of taking the advice here and getting some plywood and making my own MAS case.

[Anonymous No.10174840]

>>10174807
It will work just fine.

[Anonymous No.10175269]

So I used Ceramic grease for disc brakes for my LS-32 since it had a nasty crunch in one direction and its all good now. How much I fucked up using this and not dedicated lube in the long run?

[Anonymous No.10175273]

>>10175269
If the operation is smooth now you should probably clean that out and get some shin-etsu g-501 (or something similar). You can get tiny dabs from arcade stores for less than a dollar that are enough for several applications if you don't want a whole tube.

[Anonymous No.10175275]

>>10175269
Like this:
https://focusattack.com/fa-dab-20-ounce-shin-etsu-silicone-grease-vial/

[Anonymous No.10175285]

>>10175273
>>10175275
The operation is smooth but now I hear kinda lewd sticky thing sound when I wobble it at deadzones.
Probably gonna buy molykote 44 in the near future. I read somewhere its also great for sticks also why are those greases (dedicated or not) so fucking expensive?
Also any recommended shops in euro zone?

[Anonymous No.10175465]

>>10175285
>Also any recommended shops in euro zone?
I was gonna recommend arcadeworld.co.uk but... not EU anymore innit? Here in Germany we also have (had?) arcadeshop.de but the site says "coming soon" currently. Not sure what that's about. arcardejapan.co.uk seems to have gone out of business and the only other one in my bookmarks is paradisearcade.com but that's US I believe. Long way of me saying "No, I currently don't have a good shop at hand."

[Anonymous No.10175467]

>>10174116
Is this the Elite version or the Standard version?

[Anonymous No.10175956]

>>10175467
That is the standard version, but they are identical in this regard.

[Anonymous No.10175964]

>>10175285
>now I hear kinda lewd sticky thing sound when I wobble it at deadzones.
It's not supposed to do that.
Your grease is probably too viscous compared to shin-etsu grease.

[Anonymous No.10176090]

>>10175956
Nice, is there any advantage to the Elite? It's a lot more expensive, I was thinking in getting the standard version then put my parts, print some artwork and be done with it.

[Anonymous No.10176105]

>>10176090
I personally think the 80s/90s PC off-white is neat, but no.

[Anonymous No.10176283]

>>10176105
I've seen it in person and it would be great for an Astro City mod but I think the black standard version looks even better. For 70 bucks brand new it's hard to pass on it compared to the other options out there.

[Anonymous No.10176370]

Where do you guys these japanese parts?
I want to make a stick for my xbox
The normal controller is trash for doa

[Anonymous No.10176469]

>>10165134
Never saw those in stock. Just go the AliExpress route.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m050H4m

[Anonymous No.10176568]

>>10176090
1. It's a different color.
2. It comes with Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT and OBSF-30 parts pre-installed.

That's it. Those are the only differences from the standard Mayflash F500 V2.

However, it does take a different firmware for some reason so be careful when updating that.

[Anonymous No.10176583]

Ya'll might not know about the red and gray Mayflash sticks sold under the 8bitdo branding.

[Anonymous No.10176593]

I think they're kind of lacking compared to the Mayflash F300 and F500 but if you could find one for a deal and swap out the case that would be pretty swag.

[Anonymous No.10176675]

>>10176568
Then there is actually an undocumented PCB difference.

>>10176583
They did them in the current 8shitdo stick colors as well, which is honestly a better stick than the plastic thing they sell now but it doesn't look like a hecking epic nintendo as much. I actually hadn't seen the Famicom colors which fit the Mayflash shape well. Well all of their sticks are undermined by the insistence on wireless for zoomers as their primary feature anyways.

[Anonymous No.10176693]

>>10163226
obligatory

[Anonymous No.10176706]

>>10176675
>Then there is actually an undocumented PCB difference.
Yeah, there's got to be something, but AFAIK nobody knows what it is.

[Anonymous No.10176851]

>>10176693
How can other sticks compete?

[Anonymous No.10177298]

>>10173587
I did get a Playstation modchip directly from MAS, but that Saturn controller was second hand. It was really cheap (under $30USD) since no one wanted Saturn stuff at the time and I wanted an American arcade type of feel. Interestingly, the PCB inside has solder points for a SNES and Playstation wires. Maybe one day I can find a really cheap 3rd party controller to gut and someone that can solder those in.

>>10174407
I have great news for you. They have been created again: https://www.scanlinecity.com/mascase

>>10165862
>>10165869
>>10171407
Very nice. I got it when it was cheap too, but I cannot bring myself to replace the art. I do want to change it over to more appealing looking buttons, but that's a shame with the clear plastic. I am still not sure if I should save up for some clear white buttons so I can match the original color scheme or just go full transparent blue, but if the plastic is that brittle, I may have to hold off until I am confident in how it should look.

[Anonymous No.10177469]

>>10177298
I probably wouldnt replace that artwork either. but I had stupid looking wrestling mens on mine so I had to

[Anonymous No.10177519]

>>10164579
Message someone on Etsy
Trace your existing kit in sharpie on paper
Send them the paper u drew 1:1
I did this for guitar pickguards and shit like that
Also custom wood worked control panels

It's kind of ridiculous to get all the woodworking equipment just for one thing unless you're going to go down that rabbit hole and start making other stuff save your money and just buy the item you need

[Anonymous No.10177645]

>>10177298
I have a japanese SS PCB that I saved from a broken pad years and years ago, I planed on making an arcade stick but I never got to it, don't think anyone would be interested in a SS arcade stick since there's adapters for everything these days.

[Anonymous No.10178306]

Anyone have experience with the Brook Retro board for wiring up their stuff? It's a shame it doesn't have Genesis support. (i guess that maybe means it doesn't support 9-pin Atari ports either), but it works for everything else.

[Anonymous No.10178309]

>>10176283
damn with its price its starting to sound like the perfect LA-32 case.

[Anonymous No.10178354]

Has anyone managed to remove the print on this without destroying it? The stick on mine is fugd and needs replacing. I've seen a few forum posts but everyone sacrificed it :(
Also, anti-yellowing treatment which doesn't make the plastic super brittle?
Mine isn't this yellow but it needs some love

[Anonymous No.10179039]

>>10178354
forgot image?

[Anonymous No.10180397]

Have a Zero Delay board in a stick, thought about installing LEDs, but it's the cheap-ass model without the connectors for lights. Would a Pac-Drive with an additional USB connector (so two cable setup, one for the stick itself and one for the lights board) work with the Zero Delay and LEDBlinky on PC?

Supposedly it's not officially supported, but if I understand the program correctly it reads an input it can understand and sends a signal to the LED board.

If for whatever reason it couldn't understand the input from the "generic USB controller" Zero Delay board gets connected as, couldn't I just use joy2key or something in unison with it to make the software work?

I could upgrade the board I guess, but I play on PC only (so for example Brook boards working with Sony consoles etc. doesn't do anything for me personally) and I've found a decent deal for a Pac-Drive.

Pls respond.

[Anonymous No.10181816]

>>10177519
Well, skills like soldering, C&C, and 3D printing seems very useful to me and I'd love to learn to do them. With rising costs around, it may be most cost effective to DIY these days. Given the amazing stuff that has been made for enjoying video games these days has a lot which depend on such skills which is hard to come by now.

>>10177469
While I'm not the biggest fan of the SNK guy's art that gives everyone the Hasselhoff "come hither" face, it still looks alright on that Madcatz stick. While I do like WWE All Stars as well, it's a very fun game to play, but the artstyle is a bit too exaggerated for personal item presentation. Still amazing white carbon fiber look. I imagine a clear coat over that texture should enhance the appearance like a cool car paint.

>>10177645
There are a lot which could be adapted from one output to another like USB, but some adapters may introduce some lag. I don't exactly have any testing methodology for input lag, so it is all by feel for me.

[Anonymous No.10182549]

>>10180397
Your line of thinking seems to be reasonable and in order.

[Anonymous No.10182557]

>>10181816
Need a pic of the inside of those champion joysticks, fren.

[Anonymous No.10182565]

I need to track down when MAS first started selling controllers. I know I was seeing their ads in the mid-90s. Possibly as early as 1994 or 95.

I think the Championship Joystick from C&L probably pre-dates MAS, but I would like to be certain. And my gut is saying there was another real arcade controls maker around at that time too in the USA I'm forgetting about.

[Anonymous No.10182582]

This ad is from the November 1996 issue of EGM.

[Anonymous No.10182626]

>>10182565
>And my gut is saying there was another real arcade controls maker around at that time too in the USA I'm forgetting about.
Found it.
It was the Superstick:

https://youtu.be/f7hnGLb0eIY

Apparently built by a brother of the MAS stick maker? The ad is from the November 1994 issue of EGM.

[Anonymous No.10182854]

Earliest ad I can find for the Superstick from December 1992 issue of EGM.
This is mere months after Sigma released the 6000TB.

[Anonymous No.10182901]

>>10182626
They really got the "arcade" look and design right, these Hori and Mayflash sticks look feeble in comparison.

[Anonymous No.10183240]

>>10178354
>>10179039
damn yeah here's the pic

[Anonymous No.10183312]

>>10183240
It's 100% possible to remove the stick from this and replace it.
What other people were doing is replacing the whole thing with a JLF or LS-32.

First we need to know which version of the stick you have. One of them has a LS-56 and one has a standard ASCII lever.

In either case it can be 100% refurbed to like new condition without removing the top panel artwork at all.

[Anonymous No.10183420]

>>10182901
I suppose that is a matter of perspective. The Hori sticks (that use real arcade parts) are as legitimate as the MAS in terms of replicating the target arcade experience at home.

[Anonymous No.10183435]

>>10178354
>anti-yellowing treatment which doesn't make the plastic super brittle?
This should be pretty easy.
You will need to put the stick out in direct sunlight.
And I mean absolutely direct. No windows.
To protect the artwork and buttons from fading you will need to use frog tape to mask that part off. I suggest using a piece of a black garbage bag for a cover.

Pick a dry overcast day but not likely to rain and put the stick outside and sit in the sun for several hours and see what difference it makes.

[Anonymous No.10183563]

>>10183420
Hori has some good designs, I had this one and I still like the way it looks.

[Anonymous No.10183568]

>>10183563
Also like the Namco arcade stick.

[Anonymous No.10183675]

>>10183435
Did a little more snooping.
Looks like the entire faceplate can be removed.

[Anonymous No.10183707]

>>10166575
Harunman used to be a regular at BYOAC. Seemed like a decent guy. I've never bought from him, but I wouldn't hesitate to.

[Anonymous No.10183728]

>>10183675
>>10183435
Thanks for looking into it.
Do you recon just letting it sit in the sun will reverse the yellowing? Don't you have to cover it in a chemical agent to create a reaction?
The main issue with the panel is that the screws holding the stick in place are beneath the label.
I have a LS-32 and a set of replacement buttons ready to go.

[Anonymous No.10183758]

>>10183728
>Don't you have to cover it in a chemical agent to create a reaction?
Nope.
That is an outdated method. Just plain sunlight will do a lot of work.

LS-32 will probably be a very tight fit, and will require damaging the top artwork panel.
The alternative is to refurbish the stick that is already in it. The buttons can also be refurbed.

[Anonymous No.10183820]

A refurb would be:

replacing the
>microswitches
>spring
>main guide
>pivot
>actuator
>grease

all from the LS-56

You'd only keep the lever body and shaft.

[Anonymous No.10184828]

>>10183758
has anything else changed for "retrobriting" or ways to prevent yellowing from coming back?

I was reading this post but unfortubately the guy got divorced and then went silent:
https://www.jackenhack.com/retr0bright-will-it-last/

[Anonymous No.10186786]

>>10163226
What's a good stick for someone who hasn't used one in over 30 years and doesn't know what any of this custom shit is?

[Anonymous No.10186803]

>>10186786
Depends on the budget.

[Anonymous No.10186809]

>>10186803
Unlimited. Within reason anyway. $1k is a bit silly.

[Anonymous No.10186814]

>>10186809
What's your target game for this controller?

[Anonymous No.10186823]

>>10186814
Old arcade games mostly. I have a soft spot for beat 'em ups but I figure versatility over specialization. While old fighting games will probably come into it at some point I'm hardly competitive about it.

[Anonymous No.10186915]

>>10186823
LS-32.

[Anonymous No.10187704]

This thread is making me want to make an autistically period accurate big blue replica arcade stick.

[Anonymous No.10187950]

I have stripped the the threads in my stick and now gate is is falling out. I don't have a screw tap. Its so fucking over.

[Anonymous No.10188052]

>>10186823
Gotta go custom, LS-32 and sanwa buttons is a common combo.
https://www.scanlinecity.com/mas-neo-white

[Anonymous No.10188095]

>>10187950
>i fucked my shit up playing with daddy's tools
Many such cases

[Anonymous No.10188109]

>>10165209

These ArcadeR joysticks have a sanwa mech and can be switched to a bat stick.

[Anonymous No.10188114]

>>10188052
so overpriced
i hope the original family is still involved in the mas line and not just cash-grabbing
the price seems ridiculous for what you get
>>10186786
QANBA PEARL
neo arcade stick pro
sega astro city
F500 Elite

[Anonymous No.10188117]

>>10188095
not possible since my father is dead for almost 20 years now.
I bought the needful tool and gonna fix it

[Anonymous No.10188229]

>>10188114
The price is set right for redditors, they can even engrave their username.

[Anonymous No.10188261]

>>10188114
I like the Neo Geo and F500 Elites. Leaning more F500 Elite in the event I do end up down the custom rabbit hole it seems better built for that sort of thing. Built in games is pretty great but more a gimmick for my use case. And they're mostly fighters.

[Anonymous No.10188346]

>>10188261
Check focusattack for all the customization gimmicks.

[Anonymous No.10188673]

>>10188117
>not possible since my father is dead for almost 20 years now.
I said your daddy, not your father
>I bought the needful tool and gonna fix it
Post gore when done breaking it more

[Anonymous No.10189147]

>>10187950
Which stick? There are workarounds.
-slightly larger screws
-wrap plumbers tape around screws
-tape the gate in place
-hot glue the gate in place

[Anonymous No.10189872]

>>10188229
This is dumb and I hate it.

[Anonymous No.10190174]

anybody know a good prebuilt trackball controller? I don't have the time anymore to DIY a happ or ultimarc or something. Have tried a few trackball mice, but they didn't feel right, like they hadn't ever been meant to spin continuously at high speed in a single direction.

[Anonymous No.10190312]

>>10183758
why not use a tanning bed? confuse all the stacys at the salon

[Anonymous No.10190325]

>>10173012
not him but translucent plastic just looks awesome (when done right)

[Anonymous No.10190343]

>>10188261
with hylo you get the complete neo library and cps1\2
its neat for under 90$
get both

[Anonymous No.10190356]

>>10190312
You need UV rays.
Theoretically you could buy a UV lamp and a UV tanning box. Make sure it's sealed up tight because too much UV is not good for you.

[Anonymous No.10190787]

>>10190325
Yeah, but you can't argue with the fact that translucent plastic is almost always more brittle. It's settled science and has been peer reviewed by dozens of youtubers.

[Anonymous No.10190971]

>>10190343
An emulator would accomplish the same thing wouldn't it?

[Anonymous No.10192404]

>>10190174
X-Arcade Trackball.

[Anonymous No.10192460]

>looked like bakugan
>just some buttplugs
>mfw