Repair/Mod General - Game Tech Wiki

[Anonymous No.4079925]

Bring your repair/mod discussions and technical questions here. What are you working on?

Don't forget to add your knowledge to the wiki!
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Many common problems can be remedied by cleaning the console, games, or controllers. Check out the cleaning guide before trying anything too drastic:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

previous >>3964369

[Anonymous No.4081202]

When I remove the C205 from the twin famicom, am I supposed to replace it with a wire to maintain the circuit?

[Anonymous No.4082294]

My BVM1911 monitor lost horizontal deflection, then vertical within a minute. I think maybe its the power supply, as the GB board (an overprotection board attached to the main GA board) shows a high/low voltage fault. Anyone know how to diagnose this? There's the PDF of the BVM2011 which looks identical. I also have a hard copy of the monitor for the actual BVM1911 but no good way to scan it. I don't know much about about this stuff, but I can solder and use a multimeter. Any tips on where to start? The pdf is here if anyone is so kind as to take a look http://www.retrorgb.com/files/monitormanual/Sony_BVM-2010p_Operation_And_Service_Manual.pdf

[Anonymous No.4082309]

My BVM1911 monitor lost horizontal deflection, then vertical within a minute. I think maybe its the power supply, as the GB board (an overprotection board attached to the main "GA" power supply board) shows a high/low voltage fault. Anyone know how to diagnose this? There's the PDF of the BVM2011 which looks identical. I also have a hard copy of the monitor for the actual BVM1911 but no good way to scan it. I don't know much about about this stuff, but I can solder and use a multimeter. Any tips on where to start? The pdf is here if anyone is so kind as to take a look http://www.retrorgb.com/files/monitormanual/Sony_BVM-2010p_Operation_And_Service_Manual.pdf

Pic is of the GA board (power supply). Schematic on page 170 (5-73) of the pdf

[Anonymous No.4082408]

>>4081202
No

[Anonymous No.4083186]

>>4082408
If I cut it off and am now getting distorted sound, could it be the solder left on there causing distortion

[Anonymous No.4083249]

>>4082309
I'd start by checking all the electrolytic caps

[Anonymous No.4083546]

I have the vertical line issue with my snes. How common is this and should I just ignore it? I have never soldered anything before so I don't know how easy/hard it is to fuck something up, even opening up the console looks like a bitch.

[Anonymous No.4083897]

I got my PAL SNES in early 1993. It's now heavily yellowed, which I don't actually mind since I think it adds character.

Is this likely to be one of the worst SNES models in terms of how it would look on a HDTV? I'm trying to decide whether it's worth modding it for 60Hz or if I should just buy a newer Super Famicom.

[Anonymous No.4083915]

I've got a twin fami that i just replaced the belt for on the disk system, but now it won't go past the "now loading" screen when I put in a game. I've seen somewhere else someone mentioned a black switch that activates every pass of the arm, but I've located the switch and it seems to get pressed when it should.
I'm not sure what's wrong, I just hope it's not an electrical problem. Anyone got ideas?

here it is trying to run a game.

[Anonymous No.4084189]

Is there a de-yellowing method that;
>Is permanent or at least long lasting
>Makes the console truly look like its original colour
>Doesn't make the plastic more brittle
?

[Anonymous No.4084201]

>>4084189
Why can't more people appreciate the yellow aesthetic?

[Anonymous No.4084207]

>>4084201
doesn't the yellowing itself weaken the plastic?

[Anonymous No.4084208]

I can't seem to determine if there's a problem with the pin connector or with certain carts. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous No.4084220]

>>4084207
>doesn't the yellowing itself weaken the plastic?

No, it's the de-yellowing that weakens it.

[Anonymous No.4084221]

So I've had this N64 controller which for something like 18 years now - not too long after I bought it back in the day - had this problem where the R button input is permanently locked on. For example, In Smash Bros this causes characters to ALWAYS be using their shield. I've talked about it before on these threads, and no suggestions to fix it seem to work. I'll ask a twofold question one last time if anyone has any ideas how to fix this, or if I should just give up and cannibalize it for its nice, tight joystick?

[Anonymous No.4084350]

>>4084189
>Is permanent
Nope, some people reported reyellowing after being stored in dark boxes for a couple of years.
That's the reason why I won't do it unless they found a way to make it last for at least 20 years.

>>4084220
It's actually both.

[Anonymous No.4084370]

>>4083546
It depends from SNES to SNES, even within the same versions. Some might have an SHVC that gives clear video, others have SHVC's with the bar. Opening the console isn't a problem, as long as you have the proper tool. Some people recommend jury rigged methods to opening it up, I don't. You don't want to risk stripping something and fucking up your system. Just spend the $5 and get the fucking bits. Putting it back together or specifically putting the reset button back the way it was is somewhat tricky, but not impossible for your average adult.

The cause according to Console5 is "a voltage drop caused by insufficient bypass capacitors." The fix is a 470uF cap soldered to the 7805. This is by far one of the easiest soldering jobs you will ever have. You don't need to remove anything, you don't need to deal with really small pins, you just need to solder two legs of a component to another component's legs. Pic related.

[Anonymous No.4084374]

>>4084350
so given that my snes is yellow, is it best to just do nothing?

[Anonymous No.4084608]

>>4083915
Guys I'm at a complete loss, what could be causing the system to stop at the load screen? It must be the switch, right?

[Anonymous No.4084649]

>>4084608
Actually, disregard me; I'm a big idiot who forgot to plug everything back together within the system

[Anonymous No.4084670]

>>4084207
>>4084220
The yellowing is caused by BFR (brominated flame retardants) seperating from the plastic over decades, getting into the surface, and oxidizing.

The BFRs moving to the surface causes brittleness. The BFRs leach to the surface, leaving microscopic pockets of empty space in the plastic. This weakens the core of the plastic.

Then the BFRs on the surface oxidize, like rust, forming a hard, brittle outer layer that displaces microscopic portions of the surface plastic where the newly bonded oxygen molecules expand the size of the BFR molecules.

when you use peroxide and oxy, you break the oxygen bond in the BFRs, releasing the oxygen and De-oxidizing the BFRs.

You still have the microscopic plastic fractures, and the BFRs, still on the surface, will form new oxygen bonds and re-yellow.

The only way to remove BFRs is to melt the plastic and use a chemical process to leach it out.

in other words, you're fucked if you do, and fucked if you dont.

[Anonymous No.4084749]

I'm pretty new to modding systems, only worked on a couple extremely basic ones (Saturn, GBC, GBA, Genesis reset switch replacement).

How difficult is it to install a mod chip on the original Playstation? I'd like to play burned and import games without restriction, but I'm pretty clueless on how challenging the process is. Not to mention, what types of chips are out there or a good place to purchase from. I've seen mod chips for PS2 but those look insanely complicated with the 40 hojillion soldering points and wires needed. I want to start small with my scph-1001 original (the one with the multi-out as well as separate a/v outputs)

What are my options?

[Anonymous No.4084792]

>>4084749
>get modchip and install it
>don't
That's pretty much it for your options.

Seriously though, "how hard is X" is a question that can be answered by watching a youtube video of someone doing it.

[Anonymous No.4084807]

>>4084749
>I want to start small with my scph-1001
I strongly recommend against investing any money, time or effort into that hardware revision. It's not in any way worth it.

Get a 5xxx and mod that instead.

[Anonymous No.4084885]

>>4084792
>>4084807
Okay, thanks.

But why specifically the later models? Is there something less compatible about this launch system? I ask out of genuine curiosity. I've already had to replace the laser unit in this system so I'm familiar with taking it apart, I don't get why I should buy a whole new system for that but that's why I'm here, to ask questions.

In googling playstation mod chips I get tons of results, many from over 10 years ago (because duh), and lots and lots of different chip types sold on lots of random internet storefronts. I come to you guys requesting modern day advice to help sort through the bulk of the shit out there. I have zero idea what chip types work for what I want, what stores are still active and reputable, where to start in general. Any more specific recommendations?

[Anonymous No.4084907]

>>4084885
All that advice from 10 years ago is still good, nothing's really changed. The most recent(still over 10 years old) modchip is the MM3, or MMC3. It's got all the features to get around anti-modchip games, and it's 8 wires or less to install. As for a good seller, try ebay. Odds are you'll find better and more accurate advice on the 10 year old pages than you will here. I don't think anyone here has installed a PSX modchip recently.

Not really sure why that anon said to avoid the 1001. As long as you've replaced the plastic cd drive's guide rails with metal ones, you shouldn't have to worry about the FMV skipping issue that effected the early units. I personally recommend the 7XXX series for the sound scope feature, since it still has both the parallel and serial ports.

[Anonymous No.4085446]

>>4084670
understood. I'll do nothing, leave it yellow, and hope I never drop it.
Worst case, I'll buy a newer shell and do a shell swap
From what year did SNES consoles stop having the yellowing problem?

[Anonymous No.4085709]

i just did a quick google and noticed even the SNES Jr turns yellow, so the phenomenon affects all of them?

[Anonymous No.4086470]

Is there an effective way to get rid of minor scratches/scuffs on a console?

[Anonymous No.4086549]

>>4085709
I don't have a picture unfortunately, but yes SNES Jrs do turn yellow. I have a normal SNES Jr and one I picked up in a yard sale last summer. That one was only slightly yellowed, and you wouldn't be able to tell unless you had a normal SNES Jr next to it. I did a very short retrobright treatment session on it and it looks normal now. I haven't seen any SNES Jrs that are golden piss yellow like original SNES systems.

[Anonymous No.4086557]

>>4086470
I use pic related to get rid of minor scuffs and whatnot on consoles, controllers, and carts. Usually works for me, just be careful around labels and whatnot. If this fails I'll try a magic eraser, for me those are basically last resort.

[Anonymous No.4086687]

Does anyone know what the possible intention behind this mod of an asian-market Megadrive 1 might be?

[Anonymous No.4086704]

>>4084885
>>4084907
The 100x has a crappy VDP with 15-bit texturing versus the later models which had full 24-bit. Pic on left is 100x, right is representative of all later hardware revisions.

Also the power supply overheats and cooks the laser over time, metal rails or not.

[Anonymous No.4086738]

>>4086687
How about a pic that wasn't made for ants?

>>4086704
Does that also explain why the textures on the right side are sharper as well? This looks more like different settings in an emulator. Can you give a source on this info?

[Anonymous No.4086829]

>>4086738
Sorry, snagged that pic off ebay mobile and didn't check the res before posting.

Here's a bigger one.

[Anonymous No.4086838]

>>4086738
>Can you give a source on this info?
Sure I can:

http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=1035
http://psx.amidog.se/doku.php?id=psx:gpu

[Anonymous No.4086862]

>>4086838
Fascinating. I'm kinda surprised this isn't a more commonly known issue.

[Anonymous No.4086881]

>>4086838
>>4086704
Cool. Thanks much for the info. My 1001 has been a beloved unit for a while now, but I'm not against checking out the alternatives if they offer slightly better picture quality.

On a side note, does anybody have advice or tips on calibrating the PS1 laser? Since replacing the CD drive it works, but sometimes games take forever to load or hang on startup. I've heard that there are potentiometers one can tweak to correct these issues, but I know literally nothing more than that. I don't want to have to buy a niche testing tool or ship the unit off to a specialist or something ridiculous, just get it back up and running like it should. Any non-painful guides out there I can follow?

[Anonymous No.4086919]

>>4086881
This is the guide I used when I resurrected my launch model:

http://dogbreath.de/PS1/LaserAlignment/Laser.html

[Anonymous No.4086967]

>>4086919
Ooh, that looks complicated, but very informative. I'll try to give it a shot this weekend.

I like that the guide uses exact voltage numbers to tweak, rather than what I found in a lot of generic guides where they go "DRRR, JUST TWEAK THE POTS A BUNCH AND TEST GAMES TO SEE IF THEY RUN. IF THEY RUN ITS FINE"

[Anonymous No.4087013]

>>4086967
The voltages are very good ballpark figures but don't be afraid to vary them ever so slightly.

The optimum values are not exactly the same for every single console but at least this way you have something to aim for (and stay close to) so you don't fry anything or get hopelessly lost. It's actually a simpler process than it seems. When you actually do it for yourself you'll understand better.

Good luck anon!

[Anonymous No.4087219]

>>4087013
Well, considering I know nothing about the voltages, it's better to have ballpark figures than generic advice

[Anonymous No.4087319]

ive got a playstation 1 scph-1001 that i had someone mod for me to play backups and japanese titles. its been working pretty well for about a year, then all of the sudden a few days ago it starts freezing on loading points in a few games ive been playing. well last night it froze again only this time it wont read any types of games anymore. official ntsc or otherwise.

tried tweaking the little screw on the laser assembly tiny bit by tiny bit and i thought i got it to work perfectly, then 20 minutes later the game freezes again and the ps1 refuses to read any games at all again.

ive been fucking with trying to adjust the laser since, but no luck. tried another laser assembly from an older ps1 (this laser was also acting up the last time i used this ps1) and i still cant get it to read games.

should i just buy a new laser assembly or is it possible to salvage one of the two that i have? i havent been using a multimeter to adjust the laser, so thats probably why im not getting any good results but i just dont have one at my disposal atm.

[Anonymous No.4087326]

>>4087319
Multimeters are super cheap, and don't have to be fancy to work well. Borrow one from your dad or a friend and give the advice in >>4086919 a shot.

Otherwise you could buy another laser that still needs adjustment and you won't know until you test it.

[Anonymous No.4087330]

>>4084749
i tried doing it on a psone with pretty much identical experience to what you seem to have and i ended up ruining it because the stuff i had to solder to was so small i ended up just burning the solder points/the little tiny things i had to solder to fell off and i couldnt get them back on. you can find modded ps1s relatively cheap on ebay. thats where i got mine (i gave up after that)

[Anonymous No.4087373]

>>4083186
>cut it off
Literally retarded

>>4086687
>intention

[Anonymous No.4088127]

What's a spindle adjustment method for the disk system that just werks

[Anonymous No.4088183]

>>4084370
Really wish the only 2 videos on youtube about this weren't dogshit. Everyone seems to add different capacitors and nothing showing actual soldering.

[Anonymous No.4088206]

>>4088183
That's because the problem is pretty much different for everyone since
it depends on the board revision and the power supply used (even oem ones degrade over time/use).
Console5's 470uF cap might remove the line completely for some, while for others it'll just make it more faint.
Just try soldering on lower capacitance caps and go higher until the stripe is gone.
As seen here http://retrorgb.com/snesverticalline.html you can also solder caps to the rgb encoder itself in severe cases.
If you really need someone to show you how to 'actually' solder a cap across to the voltage regulator/rgb encoder i don't think you should even attempt doing this to begin with.

[Anonymous No.4089084]

>>4088206
do i twist it around on it or just hold it to it? have never soldered

[Anonymous No.4089152]

>>4089084
Then practice on junk electronics first, like every single "How to solder" guide on the internet says. I'm more than willing to help people in this thread, but you are getting to the "Hold muh hand and spoonfeed me!" level of stupid fucking questions.

[Anonymous No.4089187]

>>4089084
There are lots of cheap little DIY electronic kits you can buy online for like $1. They're great for practising soldering and getting your confidence up.

[Anonymous No.4089335]

>>4085709
The phenomenon affects all brominated plastic, especially ABS.

[Anonymous No.4089370]

I have a snes controller whose Start button is not working. Any ideas what could be the issue? Even pressing it as deeply as i can it doesnt register.

[Anonymous No.4089374]

>>4084189
>>4084350
I've heard spray-on vinyl paint (as used for car leather) can be used to simply cover over the yellowed plastic. The particles are very fine and it seeps into the upper layer of the polymer, it seems. Apparently it's easy and gives great results. Check this out: http://imgur.com/gallery/7vAwG

At least this won't damage the plastic any further, right? Any thoughts?

[Anonymous No.4089427]

>>4089152
>>4089187
I've seen videos, literally the only thing I need to know is whether I am holding it to it (after bending it like hooks, like putting them up to it), or actually twisting it around it.

[Anonymous No.4089483]

>>4086829
Well, it's not an overclock mod, since he didn't even touch pin 15. Instead he has the last four address pins, and what looks like the data strobe pins? Short of some heavy duty homebrew dev or otherwise fucking around with games, I don't know why anyone would do a mod like this.

[Anonymous No.4089487]

>>4089427
FFS, you can solder it on sticking out at a funny angle if it gets you hard, you just need an electrical connection. THIS IS SIMPLE LOGIC.

[Anonymous No.4089507]

>>4089427
With how retarded you sound I just know you are going to break something.
Please do us all a favor and keep your hands of your console instead of breaking it.

[Anonymous No.4089563]

>>4089507
Nah. He should post pictures as he slowly destroys the thing so we can all enjoy his fail.

[Anonymous No.4089665]

What is the go to method of playing games through an SD card on PS1?

[Anonymous No.4089705]

SFII BIOS for anon that requested it a couple weeks ago
https://mega.nz/#!xToRWDSA!Jy-BBHLW6NVB2-1WfgFPOK0S3FOAHgoMARyBLdOIAk8

[Anonymous No.4089708]

>>4089665
PSIO.
It's not really a well fleshed out product at this point though.
>Many, many incompatibilities
>You need a parallel port PS1 and install a board into your PS1 for it to work
>It's even harder to get a hold of than the OSSC
Honestly, you're better of with installing a modchip and getting a few CD-R's. It's much cheaper, easily available and 8 wire stealth installs offer 100% compatiblity with all games.

[Anonymous No.4089890]

>>4089374
This is in all honesty a far better solution than retrobrite.

[Anonymous No.4089920]

>>4089374
very interested to know if it works as well as claimed on SNES, particularly if it's better on the plastic. Until I'm convinced it's safe, my console is staying yellow

[Anonymous No.4091346]

>>4084221
It's probably the switch behind the button - you could try cleaning out the pads, and reattaching the rubber nipple that connects the conductive pad. Or just cannibalize it, w/e.

[Anonymous No.4091737]

is there a list anywhere onn the internet of PAL SNES games that work properly on a 60Hz console?

[Anonymous No.4091779]

>>4084221
I had this problem on a controller and it was caused by the shoulder button pcb being twisted before assembly. This caused the ribbon cable wires to touch so the button was always pressed. How this passed any sort of QC is inconceivable.

[Anonymous No.4092665]

Off-topic but no Emu General up and not worth a thread.

Anyone happen to know which combination of Render settings results in the purdiest Neverhood playthrough in ScummVM?

[Anonymous No.4092808]

What Chinese PCB protoyping websites are generally recommended?

[Anonymous No.4092920]

>>4089708
>Many, many incompatibilities
Seems like it's not that bad now, and some issues on this list were actually already fixed
http://www.cybdyn-systems.com.au:82/projects/CSGC/issues/CSGC-4?filter=allissues
>You need a parallel port PS1 and install a board into your PS1 for it to work
I think these are minor issues, especially installation.

But actually getting it is hard.
Last week I received an e-mail for them with pre-order link, seems like they are sending pre-orders for everyone on the mailing list.

[Anonymous No.4093524]

>>4092808
>Chinese
I wouldn't recommend any. Go with Sunstone. Shittons of options, not too pricy, and they can even UL certify it for you.

[Anonymous No.4093537]

>>4093524
Did you actually ever use one?
PCBWay and Elecrow are pretty good in my book.

[Anonymous No.4093720]

So I have a slew of SNES controllers. One of them is in really rough shape, the contacts are super worn.

I've been meaning to cull stuff down. I have some nice arcade sticks I made for my super gun that I'd like to use on my SNES.

How hard would it be to rig up something to use my DB15 Super Gun stick to work on my SNES? I assume I'm just going to have to sacrifice a Neo-Geo extension cord and solder it to the PCB and it should work.

[Anonymous No.4093931]

>>4093524
>Go with Sunstone.
Seems like shipping will cost more than PCBs for me, like with everything shipped internationally from the USA. That's unfortunate.

>>4093537
I used ITEAD before, but might try these two you mentioned
There's also this website
that compares various PCB fab options, might be interesting for someone as well. https://pcbshopper.com/

[Anonymous No.4094265]

>>4089374
so does this imply you paint it with a colour that looks like the colour of a new SNES? Or is it some clear substance that magically de-yellows the console?

[Anonymous No.4095213]

Didn't want to make a thread just for this question.

Is it possible to use my 12" Samsung tablet as a tv/monitor for my PS2 slim?

I was looking into portable screens but they're all 3rd party shit and quite expensive considering the size/quality of them. I thought it might be easier to just get some sort of composite to micro usb contraption and hook it up with my tablet instead.

Can it be done?

[Anonymous No.4095260]

>>4094265
It's a partial paint-shop, basically. The colour used in the exemplary picture was white, so it lightens up the base colour while allowing some of the original hue to still shine through.

[Anonymous No.4095368]

>>4085709
My SNES Jr is yellowed a bit on the front where it was exposed to sunlight, There was a name written on it in Sharpie and when I cleaned that off with alcohol, the plastic underneath there was still grey. So it'll only yellow due to sun exposure like most things do.

[Anonymous No.4095760]

I'm importing a JP Saturn to Europe shortly and my main worry is the power supply. I do have a 230->120/110V stepdown designed to output American voltages, but how good is this solution for jap consoles that expect 100V?

[Anonymous No.4096252]

>>4095213
>Is it possible
Yes. But it's beyond your technical and financial limitations.

[Anonymous No.4096279]

Okay so I'd like to mod my PSX with MM3, I purchased my chip on ebay but can't find installations instructions online, somehow. Everyone points to Eurasia.nu but they have everything blocked off to website guests. I don't mind making an account but they want you to give them some fucking irc code and I have no clue about how that shit works.

Are these files mirrored elsewhere? Or is there another good source of PSX installation diagrams?

[Anonymous No.4096285]

>>4096279
http://www1.zippyshare.com/v/r59Qi60V/file.html

[Anonymous No.4096296]

>>4096285
Thanks a bunch. I'm new to this, is it normal for some board versions to not use all 8 pins on the chip?

[Anonymous No.4096309]

>>4096296
I know that for the onechip you need 8 wires for full import,CD-R and stealth functionality and I think the same goes for the mm3.
The folder I gave you came from a modchip pack but if the model you want it for doesn't have an 8 wire diagram included I'd just go ahead and google your model number, the chip type and '8 wire stealth install diagram' and you should prolly be able to find something better.

[Anonymous No.4096328]

>>4096309
Okay... strange.

I have a 7501 and the diagrams show 7 connections. I really only have the one chance to screw things up, so any advice? I'm here because google has failed me on finding other install guides, but I could have just had bad luck

[Anonymous No.4097834]

>>4096328
Well I couldn't find anyone using all 8 wires for your model and the install diagrams i gave you seem to claim you only need pin 4 for a 7502.
I don't see how you would fuck anything up if you just tried it. It definitely won't kill your PS1 so long as you don't fuck up the soldering itself.
If you afterwards notice anything like imports not playing or stuff you can still go in and rewire...

[Anonymous No.4099545]

bump, might as well keep this one going

[Anonymous No.4099892]

Posting a little experience I had, maybe it'll help somebody.
I had a Famicom giving a buzzing noise through the audio, I found out it was the speaker on P2 controller even though the speaker was turned off so I just cleaned the contacts on the slider and the buzzing was fixed.

Who thought it was a good idea to have the audio from the microphone always play?

[Anonymous No.4099894]

I have a ED64plus but I was wondering where you can buy one of those CIC chips. And does it matter which?

[Anonymous No.4100268]

>>4099892
The same people who thought an 8-bit videogame console should take verbal input from players for certain game actions.

[Anonymous No.4100642]

I want to play more Mega Drive games but I can't stand the controller. Can I just take a DB9 cable and just solder it to an SNES PCB?

[Anonymous No.4100651]

Hey guys, I have a fairly autistic question regarding the SNES SuperCIC mod;

I know the mod provides 3 modes, with a different LED colour per mode.
One of those modes is an 'Auto' mode, which is what I plan to be using by default all the time, since I have a combination of a flashcart for 60Hz games, plus my old PAL carts (some of which freak out when forced to 60Hz).

My issue is that the default LED colour for Auto mode is supposedly orange, while the 60Hz mode gets the red LED, i.e. identical to a standard unmodded SNES.

Is it possible to swap the colours, so Auto mode gets a red LED?

[Anonymous No.4100653]

>>4100642
It's a free country, do as you like

[Anonymous No.4100659]

>>4100642
No, they're not compatible with each other
Raphnet has as solution to convert them though:
http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/snes2md/index_en.php
You can either buy a premade adapter or make your own one from the ground up as everything needed (gerbers for PCB and firmware for microcontroller) seem to be openly shared on his github.

[Anonymous No.4100676]

>>4100659
I know about Raphnet.

The controller pinout for the Genesis seems like it's Neo-Geo style, where it's 1-1. Is it not possible to grab the signals from the SNES board and just wire it to the corresponding pin on teh DB9?

[Anonymous No.4100683]

>>4100676
Oh, I see.
Yeah, it's gonna be a hackjob but if you are fine with fiddling with a lot of cables and wiring them directly to everything on the controller PCB then yes.
I actually did pretty much the same myself for a consolized GBA I made, though I used a VGA connector for mine.

[Anonymous No.4100687]

>>4100683
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.4100790]

>>4100683
>>4100687
Yeah I have no issues with soldering onto the PCB. The shoulder buttons on the controller are fucked, the contacts are super worn, and the hinges broke off.

Basically trying to salvage it. Breathe new life into it as a Genesis controller since I only need 3 buttons + start.

[Anonymous No.4101042]

>>4084189
>>4089374
I wish someone would just make color-matched spray paints for the NES and SNES. I am not aware of any that exist. It's easy with white systems because white is a pretty hard color to screw up.

In my experience white works great with retrobrite but grays can be very difficult. It all depends on the nature of how your system turned yellow, I guess. Sometimes it is caused by UV exposure or heat, and sometimes it's just the release of chemicals and has nothing to do with external forces other than air. I am pretty sure the latter is an okay candidate for the retrobrite process if you want good results, but both times I've tried to use it on gray plastic I got smeary bleached streaks on the final product some might say look worse than the yellow plastic.

My Commodore 64 is a bit yellowed but I'm not going to try brightening it any time soon. If I do I am only going to try on a small spot on the inside of the plastic because I want to see if it causes a smeary appearance or not.

Also, there is an option for preventing further yellowing / degradation: sealing the plastic with UV resistant matte varnish. Bear in mind though, like painting it will probably change the tactile feel of the plastic which may or may not be to your liking.

[Anonymous No.4101293]

>>4091779
Perhaps I should open it back up and take a photo of the R-button's miniboard then. Because I've tried cleaning it before like >>4091346 suggested, but that does bupkis.
Your theory is the most plausible one I've heard yet.

[Anonymous No.4101358]

>>4100651
I have a somewhat autistic answer for you.

The LED appears to be 2-pin, which tells me it's a red and green LED that pushes yellow when it gets juice on both pins. It shows green when on 50Hz mode, and red in 60Hz mode. So the board will be pushing voltage on those pads in those specific situations. What you need to get it to swap red and orange is to build a small logic circuit. One that will output green on 50Hz, orange on 60Hz, and red on auto. Or you can attempt to hunt around for another three color LED that pushes red when getting voltage from both pins(good fucking luck).

tl;dr, there is no simple solution, but it is doable if you really want it.

[Anonymous No.4101369]

>>4100651
You could download the MPLAB IDE (if you burn your PICs) and change the source. That's what I did when I wanted to remove that stupid switchless reset/change function to make the reset button normal and use a ON-OFF-ON switch to override the auto 50/60hz mode.

[Anonymous No.4101381]

I assume there isn't just just to be sure >>4096469

[Anonymous No.4101638]

Alright, so i'm trying to get an NES to work. i've already replaced the pin-connecter. still not sure what to do, Keep getting white flashes over a black background, the light is also flashing, also carts are clean.

[Anonymous No.4101887]

>>4101638
Did you try disabling the lockout chip?

[Anonymous No.4102003]

What do you think about those replacement shells for gameboys that you can get off ebay? Are they as good as the original shells nintendo made?

[Anonymous No.4102079]

>>4083915
Not him, but I also recently bought a Famicom Twin, and am having the error 22 issues.

When I received the system, it seems the belt was already replaced, but it was assembled incorrectly ( the black reader arm was below the harness thing ), but even after assembling it correctly it wouldn't work.
I tried all the guides online with various methods of alligning the gears and alligning the spindle, but none of it seems to work.
Actually not entirely true, I was able to load a game exactly once, thought it was fixed, then moved on to fix the controller.
And when I put it back together, it no longer read disks again.
Keeps having the issue of reading, moving black, shutting down, then reading again.
In the end I put my drive from my FDS in there and it works, but I still want to fix the drive if possible. Does anyone have good methods for this?
What I've tried so far is alligning the metal plate on the bottom of the gears with the pin and the hole in the white plastic with the hole in the mount, then turning it until the "click" happens and attach the spindle to line up with the reader, nothing.
Also tried to put it back in the position with the guide hole, nothing.
tried putting the gears allignment and the head in the exact same position as the one in the FDS, also nothing.
Probably tried a few more guides that I don't remember the exact details of, but attempts were made.

[Anonymous No.4102347]

>>4100651
Yes. It can be done with some minor changes to the code.

>>4101358
>somewhat autistic
That's the most autistic and convoluted alternative to changing a few lines of code I could imagine. If you were a tripfag I'd design a PAL with this logic just so I could name the retarded monstrosity after you. I'd write it in PALASM for maximum autism.

[Anonymous No.4102357]

>>4101358
>>4101369
Thanks, I'll ask the guy who's installing it for me if it can be done without ridiculous expense.
Worst case, I guess orange wouldn't look that different to the original led right?

[Anonymous No.4102490]

>>4102347
That's good to know thanks

[Anonymous No.4102561]

It's not retro, but hey it's worth a shot.

I have a PSP-2001 that I'm having display issues with. It's got a noisy look to it, like cable going through RF. If I squeeze the console gently, I can lessen the noise or increase it. Sometimes, the noise is so bad that most of the screen goes white.

I've tried reseating the display ribbon cable, is there anything else I should try?

[Anonymous No.4102575]

>>4102561
replace the LCD? I'm sure it probably isn't too expensive or difficult

[Anonymous No.4102695]

>>4101369
the reset button still works as a normal reset button right? i.e. if you just tap it then it resets, but if you hold it then it cycles through the modes. Or have I misunderstood?

[Anonymous No.4102752]

>>4102490
Good to know that I'd make a useless mod using an obsolete part and a 35 year old HDL just because someone rustled my jimmies or the other thing? kek
FYI, I think there's a spare I/O pin on the part used for the super CIC. If you're going to change the code you could use this to use all three colors to make whatever combinations you wanted instead of being limited to those three.

[Anonymous No.4102870]

>>4102752
I was replying to your first reply. I'm >>4100651

[Anonymous No.4102954]

>>4102870
That was my first reply. For shits and giggles, PALASM for the solution >>4101358 described:

CHIP TARDVERTER PAL16L8
PIN 2 IN0 COMB
PIN 3 IN1 COMB
PIN 19 OUT0 COMB
PIN 18 OUT1 COMB
EQUATIONS
OUT0 = IN0
OUT1 = IN0 :+: IN1

I didn't actually burn a PAL and try it on real hardware but it works fine in the simulator.

[Anonymous No.4103131]

>>4102954
I have to confess I don't understand any of what you've written here. But as long as what I want is achievable through some brief re-coding, I'm happy

[Anonymous No.4103191]

>>4102695
>the reset button still works as a normal reset button right?
Yes, I disliked the original idea and rather preferred a 3 position switch in the back where the RF out was.

[Anonymous No.4103742]

What's a good N64 stick replacement/alternative that is pretty decent and doesn't cost like $100? I was looking at those Hori pads, but the price is too rich for my blood. That said, it seems like most replacements I can find online are all shit, too.

[Anonymous No.4103789]

>>4100683
>consolized GBA
I've actually wanted to do something like this, can you elaborate on the project?

I keep seeing people using these pre-made Innovation boards and I just don't think they're readily available anymore.

[Anonymous No.4103817]

>>4103789
They actually are still available. It does have it's downsides though.
>Originally composite only so you'll have to mod it for RGB
>480i only
>No scaling except a switch to enable really, really gross non integer scaling (practically useless)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172409747865

[Anonymous No.4103997]

>>4103817
A bit more expensive than I would've liked, but I may give it a shot at some point. Not a huge fan of the GB player these days, just because I don't like the stupid overlay.

[Anonymous No.4104154]

>>4103131
>I don't understand
That's the point. It's a totally redundant but totally possible mod to a mod. I'm just outsperging the aspie in >>4101358.

[Anonymous No.4104178]

>>4103817
I think I'll stick with my Gb Player and custom program to run it in 240p.

[Anonymous No.4104248]

>>4104154
ah, I'm with you now.
So regarding the changing of code, how does that work? The supercic needs to be connected to a computer before it gets installed? Is there some program to download?

[Anonymous No.4104325]

>>4104248
The SuperCIC is running on a micro controller.
Of course the micro controller needs to be programmed to work.
Here's the compilable source https://github.com/borti4938/Switchless-Mods/blob/master/SNES/CICs/lock/supercic-lock.asm
Unless you know your way around assembly at least a bit though, you'll probably just be confused by it.
Of course you'll also need a programmer to burn the compiled hex file onto a pic then.

[Anonymous No.4104682]

Semi-retro; I'm using pic related to play PSX games. The ability to plug this thing in and charge it seems very temperamental. e.g. sometimes you have to twist the cable plug a certain way before it starts charging.

Is this kind of problem usually due to the charger itself, or could there be something wrong with the actual PSP? Hopefully it's the cable since they're cheap to replace

[Anonymous No.4104851]

>>4103742
So I looked around and it seems like the GCN to N64 adapter is pretty well liked. Anyone have experience with those?

[Anonymous No.4104884]

>>4104682
Mines the same.
Could be a bad battery, I'm inclined to believe it's just a design flaw.

I'm genuinely considering consolizing my PSP just because it's finnicky and super uncomfortable to use with the component cable in.

[Anonymous No.4105408]

>>4104248
You download the source and change it. Then you build it and write it to the chip. Most programmers can handle the part. If you don't have one you get cheap one for a few bucks.

[Anonymous No.4105464]

>>4104682
Dirty, filthy peasant, using a PSP when pic related plays all PSX games with superior performance and resolution.

[Anonymous No.4105478]

>>4105464
>spending the GDP of a small nation for any amount of storage
no thanks.

[Anonymous No.4105483]

>>4084208
With the eject mechanism up like that, you'll have a hard time inserting carts at all.

[Anonymous No.4105728]

>>4104884
>consolizing
I was unfamiliar with this concept until just now. Can you consolize a psp 1000? I know it doesn't have to out compared to later models

[Anonymous No.4105742]

>>4105728
I have a PSP DTP-H1500, that's basically a consolized PSP.

[Anonymous No.4105752]

>>4105464
>thinking vita emulation is anywhere close to the level that psp emulation is at

[Anonymous No.4105839]

>>4105752
doesn't psp have actual psx hardware in it? the main thing limiting psp is lack of shoulder buttons and second stick. No big deal for the jrpg's I plan to play.

The other issue with my psp1000 is the lack of clickyness in the square button, which has pretty much always been like that. Is there a fix for that?

[Anonymous No.4105845]

Hey /vr/os, I found this copy of DKC2, but it's in terrible shape, looks as though it's been left outside or something, even the connector looks somewhat corroded compared to my cartridges; I've photographed an example of this in pic related, in the same lighting conditions for comparison.
Is it salvageable?

As for aesthetics, I could transplant it into a better cartridge, but can you get repro stickers that look identical to the originals?

At that point, would it be better to just track down a better condition cartridge?

[Anonymous No.4105850]

>>4105845
Take it apart and show the board.

[Anonymous No.4105858]

>>4105850
I'll try, but first I'll have to see if i have the right screwdrivers and such. never done this before

[Anonymous No.4105871]

>>4105858
If you don't know whether or not you have the right screwdrivers, then you don't have them, they're nintendo security bits.

[Anonymous No.4105883]

>>4084189
There's a thing called Retrobright that can fix that.

[Anonymous No.4105916]

>>4105883
I keep hearing mixed things about it. I'm not yet convinced it doesn't cause further brittleness

[Anonymous No.4105918]

>>4105858
You can melt the tip of a hard plastic pen, press it over the screw and let it harden to make a security bit cheap and fast. Use a clean game to make the bit.

Once open, clean the pins witha pencil eraser and itll be fine.

[Anonymous No.4105923]

>>4105918
what about for the cartridge itself, do repro stickers look legit?

[Anonymous No.4105939]

>>4105923
You can get stickers that are essentially close enough. There aren't any that are perfect, but they're sufficient for the purposes of prettying up a game for your own collection.

[Anonymous No.4105961]

Hey guys, I picked up a copy of FF3 for the SNES today and all I get is a black screen upon powering on. Every single one of my other SNES games work on the first try, while I have tried FF3 around 50 times to no avail.

I've already tried cleaning the contacts of both the console and cartridge, but the results stay the same - a black screen and nothing more.
Side note: the console doesn't act like there isn't a cartridge inserted; it just shows a blank, black screen instead of starting the game.

Is the game just plain ol' dead or is there something other than cleaning I can do to make things right?
Thanks guys.

[Anonymous No.4106014]

>>4105961
Did you open it and look at it?

It could be a bad romchip. corrosion on contacts, some of the traces could've been cut, etc.

If you got it from eBay, just return it.

[Anonymous No.4106019]

Does anyone have experience repairing broken shoulder buttons on SNES controllers?

I'm currently gluing some together with crazy glue, but I'm not sure if the bond will hold over extended use.

[Anonymous No.4106114]

So I've installed my MM3 modchip in my PSX. It wasn't too hard, the most annoying part was desoldering the RF shield on the motherboard. I feel confident that I installed the wires correctly, because it still works perfectly with standard games that worked before, and now the couple legit ntsc-j games I own. Some games had difficulties loading and/or stuttering fmv, but I tweaked the potentiometer and that helped a bit.

Though none of the CD-Rs I've burned have worked completely. Only one worked but it took an extremely long time to start up (I'm talking 30+ seconds on the initial logos and it never finished loading past the main menu). Sometimes they show the second logo screen with the proper game region, or sometimes it fails after the first logo and goes to the cd player. Everyone online is saying that the problem is either burning too fast or the disc brand but I have no clue what kind of media quality I have and the burner has a minimum speed of 16x. Any other ways I can test this short of buying a whole new stack of discs that may or may not help?

[Anonymous No.4106154]

>>4102954
I've got a better one. Build a 2bit x 2 diode matrix ROM. Attach the address lines to the LED pins on the Super CIC. Attach the data lines to the LEDs. Set the ROM data to 00,11,10,10.

[Anonymous No.4106159]

>>4106019
Crazy glue will not work.

[Anonymous No.4106204]

>>4106154
It's good, but I feel we can go further. Can we get a solution in Verilog?

[Anonymous No.4106225]

>>4106159
Care to elaborate? I put a controller back together and it feels solid.

[Anonymous No.4106324]

>>4106204
Maybe use a Spartan board and output the region status to a separate screen via HDMI?

[Anonymous No.4106682]

>>4106204
>Verilog
module tardvert ( IN0, IN1, OUT0, OUT1);
input IN0,IN1;
output OUT0, OUT1;
assign OUT0=IN0;
assign OUT1=IN0^IN1;
endmodule

[Anonymous No.4106740]

>>4105916
It's shit, trust me.

Get some matching vinyl dye and do it the right way.

[Anonymous No.4106934]

>>4104851
Fuck it, I bought one. Guess I'll find out if it's shit.

[Anonymous No.4106945]

>>4106934
Did you buy it from Raphnet? MLIG did a video on their adapter last year and it performed favorably

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iz-Cc1t2b0

[Anonymous No.4106976]

>>4106945
Yeah, that's the one. I got one of their SNES to GCN adapters for GBP stuff. The only downside is games that require a slot 1 memory card, but I can just swap controllers for that.

[Anonymous No.4107423]

I have this Japanese copy of Super Mario RPG that won't keep a save for more than two or three days. When I received the game it had no saves on it at all so I assumed the battery was dead. I replaced the battery with a new one and began playing. Over the next few days I played two or three times and saved without issues. I didn't play the game for three or four days after that. When I went to play it again the save was gone. I tested the battery with a multimeter and got 3.22V. I decided to replace it with another new battery just in case it was a dud, but after three more days my new save disappeared as well. What's really odd is that I checked after one day and the save was still there. I checked on the second day as well and it was still there. But by the third day it was gone. I removed the cartridge from the console after each test, so it's not as though it was being powered by the console.

Does the 256k SRAM itself fail? I checked to see if the SRAM is getting power from the battery and it is. I have a broken American copy of SMRPG that I can take the SRAM chip off of to swap them.

[Anonymous No.4107841]

>>4107423
Every chip can fail.

Are you putting in the batteries the right way? Are they the right voltage requirements?

[Anonymous No.4107881]

>>4107423
I'd clean the fucking pins as a start because the system might not even be able to see the sram present on the cart.

[Anonymous No.4107923]

>>4106225
I had the same problem with a controller. I tried crazy glue and it broke quickly.

[Anonymous No.4108125]

>>4107423
Could be a problem with the power switching circuit. Check if you have power on in the SRAM after a few days without plugging it in.
Also, daily reminder that there's a $1 pin compatible FRAM part what will keep your saves with no battery for nearly 50 years.

[Anonymous No.4108182]

>>4108125
>pin compatible FRAM part what will keep your saves with no battery for nearly 50 years
What? Where? How?

[Anonymous No.4108208]

>>4107841
>>4107881
>>4108125
Thanks for all the tips.
I've cleaned it a few times actually with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs (once when I first got it and once again after opening it to change the battery). The battery isn't backwards and the voltage of the battery seems correct. Both the original and the replacement are 3V CR2032s They each tested at 3.2 to 3.3V.

I know it's a cheap game, but I do want to fix it, so just for the heck of it I decided to take the SRAM from the broken cart and swap it into the one that's not holding saves. I made a new save today so I'll leave it unplugged for a few days, then check for power in the SRAM, and then see if the save is still there.

The funny thing though is that the broken US version SMRPG cart is now fixed. The problem it had was that it would play the opening sequence with lots of graphical glitches, then would freeze when you tried to load a game. I guess it must have had a corrupt saved game or something, because after removing the original SRAM and installing the one from the Japanese cart it seems to be fixed. I made a save on it too so I'll check if it's still there after a few days. If it disappears, then I think I can assume it was the SRAM chip that was bad.

[Anonymous No.4108273]

>>4108182
>What?
Any 32Kx8 parallel FRAM with JEDEC pinout, same package, etc. FM1808 is popular.
>Where?
Teh intarwebz or your local electronics supply shop
>How?
Advanced 90's technology. Invented in the 50's but made commercially viable for kids toys in the 90's.

[Anonymous No.4108764]

>>4107423
SA-1 games tend to erase the save if there's something wrong with the CIC (although the complete opposite was advertised in the developer manual).
It might be possible that capacitor C1 went bad.
Maybe you need that unpopulated capacitor C8, in that case use something very small between 1-4,7µF with a minimum voltage rating of 6.3V.
Also test if your PCB is sensitive to mechanical shocks. (create a save on it, then remove it and carefully hit it against a hard surface and check your save afterwards)

[Anonymous No.4108871]

Is there any merit to making dumps of test builds and dev data or anything?
When I bought my psp debug unit i got two UMDs, one with a test build for crazy taxi 1-2, and one with unknown data.

[Anonymous No.4108893]

Can anyone comment on the stuttering issue that can potentially occur during sidescrollers on a 2chip PAL SNES when modded to run at 60Hz?

Is it frequent and noticeable on a HDTV? Or is it a relative non-issue?

Basically I'm deciding between modding my 2chip for 60Hz or just doing a complete board swap with a better board.

[Anonymous No.4109036]

>>4108764
Thanks, I didn't know that about the CIC.
When the save first got erased I initially thought my soldering on the new battery must have been poor, so after making a new save I tried tapping the board against a table a bit to see if I could cause it to erase, but it didn't.

If the new SRAM doesn't solve the problem I'll replace C1. I thought about doing that first, but I don't have any surface mount replacements and I didn't want to just bend the leads on radial ones since I didn't want to alter the appearance. But now with the new battery and replacing the SRAM, the appearance is already altered, so there's no harm in using radial lead replacements. As for C8, my other SMRPG board doesn't have it either, nor do the images I saw online of the same board. But I have some 2.2uF caps for when I recap SNES consoles. So I'll install one of those. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.4109508]

I'm having huge amounts of bother putting custom firmware on a PSP model 1003.

It's currently on the official 6.61 firmware so I'm trying to downgrade it because no custom stuff seems to work on it right now.

I've tried using the Chronoswitch 7.0 downgrader,
Supposedly it goes PSP>GAME>UPDATE>eboot.pbp but for some reason that keeps showing up as corrupted on the memory card and won't launch the downgrader tool.
So then I tried PSP>GAME>Chronoswitch_7_0>eboot.pbp and the downgrader actually showed up where it's supposed to. But when I launch it, go through the warnings, it doesn't fucking work. I get a 'game could not be started' error and then I'm back at the home screen.

The annoying thing is I've done this before with my PSP slim, except that's still on the 6.60 official firmware so it was much less of a headache getting CFW on it.

I'm doing this for a friend who is much less tech savvy than I am. Help me out /vr/

[Anonymous No.4109942]

I finally got some free time, so I decided to investigate my Duo. I had it recapped and RGB modded a couple years ago. Two months ago, the sound died on me. The mod work looks fine to my untrianed eye, but where should I look for the capacitor or motherboard damage for the sound? Are there any visible signs of failure which indicates a nothing more could be done?

[Anonymous No.4109957]

>>4109508
this question would be better for the homebrew thread on >>>/vg/ but just use this
http://hackinformer.com/PlayStationGuide/index.html

[Anonymous No.4110052]

>>4109942
Well, I can tell you those caps are cheap as fuck and I wouldn't be surprised if one died already.

Find out the sound chip and trace back. Usually starting from the audio out is a good point.

[Anonymous No.4110064]

>>4109942
>>4110052
Tried it again and now the sound works. Guessing it is the JP-21 cable or framemeister sync causing the stutter and visual shake. I increased the sync level to 16, which is better but it still stutters at times.

[Anonymous No.4110184]

>>4109942
>i paid for that
>this is now a gore thread
lawdy

[Anonymous No.4110210]

>>4110052
>>4110184
Please understand my situation. I cannot afford much, nor do I have the technical expertise. This is the TurboDuo of my youth, and only a few years ago I learned that the capacitors need to be replaced or else the motherboard would have been permanently destroyed beyond repair. Even if I had money Retrofixes only opens up for 1 repair every 4 months, Game-Tech.us is more focused on the HDMI NES project for the past few years, and badassconsoles doesn't take any TurboDuo work, so there was no one else willing to save my Duo from a horrible death.

I love my Duo, and I can't let go.

[Anonymous No.4110524]

im nervous about soldering a modchip onto a slim ps2, im not sure how people attach it without smearing solder onto the other pins. can I get some tips for a newbie

[Anonymous No.4110535]

>>4110524
Don't.

It's a job for someone who is fairly skilled when you need to do smd and IC stuff.

[Anonymous No.4110538]

>>4110535

anybody else

[Anonymous No.4110542]

>>4110538
I meant that with sincerity. If you come here to ask that question than you probably shouldn't be attempting it. It's a intermediate soldering job.

[Anonymous No.4110558]

>>4106114
To follow up on this, still not having much luck. I can't imagine the discs being bad since every disc I burn for my Sega CD from the same batch works perfectly, or does that not matter?

The brand I'm currently using is Tevion 700MB 52x, fwiw

[Anonymous No.4110703]

>>4110558
What program are you using to burn? Maybe just try switching to another brand since they aren't that expensive anyways?
Can you show an image of your soldering job?
I'm using cheap discounter branded CD-Rs and they're working perfectly fine for both Sega CD and PS1.
I'm using an LG Blue Ray drive with ImgBurn (Write Speed set to 1X though it doesn't burn at that speed seemingly since I get a note saying "Used burn speed does not match set burn speed" or something like that.)

[Anonymous No.4110707]

>>4110210
The caps that guy used are from some brand nobody ever heard of.
I honestly wouldn't trust them either.
Trace out the audio circuitry starting from the headphone jack and replace all caps that have anything to do with it.

[Anonymous No.4110974]

>>4108893
bump

[Anonymous No.4111031]

>>4110703
Thanks. I ordered another batch of CD-Rs branded as Taiyo Yuden because everyone on the internet won't shut up about them. With my luck they will be fakes because FUCK ME RIGHT?

I did take a picture of my completed install but everything is so goddamn small so I don't know if it will help much. My model is a 7501 so the wire coming from pin 2 is unused, I just put a tiny bit of electrical tape over the end before closing it to make sure there's no connection being made. It took me more than a couple hours to get this installed in the first place so I really really hope I don't have to do it again. But the fact that it boots backups even to an extremely basic degree as well as legit off-region discs leads me to believe that everything is fine chip-wise. It just looks like it's having trouble reading the discs. But then again, I'm posting here because I'm extremely new to this and don't know what's going on, so I could very likely be wrong.

[Anonymous No.4111085]

>>4111031
There's still a possibility for it not be properly wired and work only partially.
Your soldering job looks questionable to me, though it might also be the photo's angle/quality.
For one thing, though it might be the angle, the wiring on the chip between pin 4/3 looks questionable.
Also check if everything is connected properly (Maybe something came lose). For one thing your soldering of the cable to the mobo for pin 8 looks a bit loose and soldering to ground usually needs a good amount of heat to be properly connected.
On another note, my diagrams say that only for 7502's you should wire up pin 4 so maybe try disconnecting it and leave that floating as well.

Once again I don't really believe in it really having to good quality CD-Rs to even be able to play on your PS1. As I said I'm using the cheapest ones i could get. 10 for 2€. Maybe it makes a difference if your laser is already at it's death bed or it's just the CD-Rs you got are bad or something. Just go out and buy another cheap pack from somewhere and see if it makes a difference.

[Anonymous No.4111098]

>>4111031
Oh, and just a little tip to make it look a bit cleaner next time:
If you want to solder the chip without any adapter pcb, take some flat head pliers and straighten the pins beforehand.
Second, you want to use thinner wire for these kind of jobs. I personally use 0.1mm magnet wire for this kind of stuff. That's extremely thing and you can go thicker but yours is definitely too thick for me. The weight of the wire you're using can rip off pads in the long run or just make solder joints become lose over time so it can also affect the quality of your work.
I also use a little dab of hot glue to secure the chip itself in place. Some people may be against hot glue but it's ok as long as you use it in moderation.
You could also use tiny dabs for cable routing but I personally don't do that.

The picture shows the wire I'm using. The chip is held in place with a dab of hot glue and can't touch anything like that in this position.

[Anonymous No.4111105]

>>4110535
>>4110542
LISTEN TO THIS MAN. I have soldering experience. I feel confidant. I even have the right tools. Given the choice, I'll find someone else to do the job who's skilled in SMD shit. I have successfully done SMD before, but it's a damned nightmare. Just hire someone to do it.

>>4110703
>>4111031
What sort of rips are you using? Proper bin+cue's that match what's on redump?

[Anonymous No.4111119]

>>4110184
Aside from choosing wanhunglo brand chinese caps, I'm not seeing the problem with the actual capacitor replacement job.

Those white wires look suspicious, but I've never seen the inside of a turbo duo, so it could be just shitty engineering from NEC's American division.

Whenever you replace surface mount electrolytic caps with radials, you're gonna have some wonky cap placement to fit things in, depending on the clearance of the board.

I'd be worried about loose pads on those caps though. Most people aren't careful about removing surface mount caps, and don't invest in a smd rework tool with a forked tip, or a desoldering tweezer.

They cut them off and desolder them manually, which heats the shit out of the pads and ruins the glue holding them down.

[Anonymous No.4111131]

>>4111105
soldering SMD and fine pitch components isn't as hard as everyone pretends it is.

You just need a steady hand, some good tweezers to hold the wire, and LOTS of flux.

Flux is your friend.
Oh, and a desoldering wick. With flux.

Practice on a junk board. Learn to bend your wire, flux it, tin it, flux it again and place it before starting, then hold it down with a tool like tweezers before brushing it with your solder ball (use a small hoof tip on your iron).

When you get good, you'll be able to solder even 0.5mm pitch pads and TSOP chips in a couple of seconds.

[Anonymous No.4111139]

>>4111105
First person you quoted, not the one with the problem.
I don't intricately check for validity on dumps (I just check the comments for possibly problems on releases) but I do only use bin+cue's and as I said earlier, everything works and loads pretty fast on my PAL PS One with onechip and cheapo discounter CD-R's.

>>4111131
You might be right, especially that flux is your biggest friend especially on SMD parts but they are right to discourage a newbie going at it without practice.

[Anonymous No.4111171]

>>4110210
>I learned
You lie

[Anonymous No.4111393]

>>4111131
>You just need a steady hand
This is my biggest problem. I can handle through-hole and whatnot, but with SMD I WILL damage something. My hands just shake too much.

[Anonymous No.4111592]

So is the video quality on these just fucking cancer or what is the deal? I have 2 model 1s, both HD graphics. They both have horrible jailbars (at least I think that's what I have, horrible lines(you don't see them outright unless it's a startup/transition screen). I thought it was just my copy of sonic 2, but no I got altered beast and it is still like that. Have switched between composite and rf, no difference, have switched ports on the TV, wasn't that.
I know that RGB or whatever is better but surely it still shouldn't look like that right?

[Anonymous No.4111597]

>>4111592
I would take a picture but I don't have a camera good enough to capture it (my camera is really fucking bad)

[Anonymous No.4111628]

>>4111592
>>4111597
If my experience with various VA5s is anything to go by, even the stock RGB output won't help you. The problem originates on the RGB lines running from the VDP to the encoder chip which pass too close to the VRAM and pick up nasty interference there. I bet the lines are worse on blue and green and hardly visible on red, right?

The only way I know of to eliminate them is to either run lines directly from the VDP to the AV out or fit the ready made RGB bypass kit available from videogameperfection and documented on retrorgb.

[Anonymous No.4111650]

>>4111592
Here's an RGB capture of a french RGB-only model 1 in 60Hz.
Dunno how that relates to american HD ones but they shouldn't be vastly different, right?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBc7O8B7-aw

[Anonymous No.4111659]

>>4111650
The only thing different about french ones to others is, that they don't have composite hooked up thanks to their SECAM BS by the way.

[Anonymous No.4111809]

>>4111628
Well, I'm fucked. What would you wager the odds are of a genesis 1 HD having them? Is it common for other models to get them, and would a 32x do anything? I can't use rgb (or rather I can't solder and it I am not willing to shell out the money for RGB to component anyway)

[Anonymous No.4111832]

>>4111809
I've used most of the well-regarded variants of Model 1 and 2. All have had jailbars to some extent, it's just a poorly designed PCB. No, a 32x is not going to do anything much.

Best success I've had is running it on my Pioneer plasma with some advanced low-pass filtering options available. It almost eliminates them and results in next to no ancillary degradation but is not an ideal solution from my perspective.

[Anonymous No.4111879]

>>4111832
Well I fucking hate it and it makes me want to throw up, and not buy an everdrive down the line. But I guess if it's really common I could chalk it up to being part of the "authentic genesis experience" ..eeehhhhhh at least it the console itself still looks sexy.

[Anonymous No.4112319]

>>4110210
You're just going to have to find some one to do it.

Make sure they use quality caps such as Nichicon, Samsung, Or Rubycon caps.

I'd offer to do it but life issues are in the way right now of me taking any serious repairs.

[Anonymous No.4112761]

The sticks on my PS1 dualshock are squeaky and seem to get stuck. I took it apart, cleaned it, and blew some air under them, but that didn't help much. Is there anything else I can do?

[Anonymous No.4113505]

>>4110707
I guess I am happy I made a temporary step to prolong my Duo even if it is on life support at the moment. As I think the original caps were leaking which can corrode/damage the motherboard. It buys me time to save up to commission another repair shop, hopefully I will have enough in a year or so.


>>4111119
The white wires appear to connect the video/audio out port to the custom RGB board on the side of the CD-drive. The Duo and PC-Engine do not have much room so that would be why they are bent on their sides. In fact, I swear the whole board was encased by two large metal shields which had some wires soldered to it (grounding?) which appear to be discarded I am guessing for additional clearance for the caps and RGB mod. As for the pads, I cannot say, and I did not watch the operation, I was just desperate to keep my Duo running.


>>4111171
Okay, I watched Game Sack and the guy said TurboDuos are notorious for leaky capacitors and they all need to have them changed. Believeable since NEC/TTI didn't have much money and had to cheap out to get the system out to people (the system was bundled with 6 damn fine games after all, along with the booklet of vouchers discounts for future purchases). Reading in forums and other sites on the Duo, it seems like a common theme with TurboDuos losing sound and dying all from the leaking capacitors, so I saved up for a couple years to get it done as soon as I can. The price trusted modders and repair shops want are well out of my means, but the Duo was important to my past and I couldn't just let it die to the junk pile.


>>4112319
Yeah, I will start saving up again to have it done properly, but finding people who knows how to is very difficult as the machine is not common. Those that are knowledgeable, have different focuses and are invested into other projects than repair old uncommon consoles which are not their own. I appreciate the sympathy, and I understand life happens so I wish you well.

[Anonymous No.4113952]

>>4079925
Anyone have any experience modding the main CPU SNES? I think I can just swap out the oscillation crystal considering the age of the system, but anytime I googled info, I just found stuff about OC'ing the FX chip on some carts via that same method, which isn't exactly what I want to do. I have a couple of spare SNES's so I'm willing to experiment, but it'd be nice to at least have *some* info before going forward.

[Anonymous No.4113956]

I dug out my old SNES last night and popped Super Mario World in and for some reason it has a bunch of visual glitches? Some of the bosses are unplayable due to broken platforms and the same goes for the rotating platforms. I also found similar issues with A Link to the Past.

Is the SNES a lost cause or is this something I can fix? I'd hate to have to throw it out or give it away as I've had it since its release.

[Anonymous No.4114039]

>>4113956
Looks like a PPU problem. Seems to be quite a notorious problem for SNES consoles.
Here's the list of things it could be in my opinion:
1. PPU/one of the PPU's has died
2. V-RAM chip has died
3. Some way or another a connection of a pin on either the PPU/one of the PPU's or the V-RAM has a knick

If one of the chips has died you're kinda fucked. To replace any of them you'll need a donor SNES since all 3 parts are proprietary. You'll also need a hot air station to do the transplants since they're all SMD chips with quite big pin count. To resolder you'd optimally also have to use solder paste and just reflow it with hot air but you can also use an iron with a lot of flux.
Honestly, unless you really for some odd reason want to save that specific SNES it's not worth the hassle unless you have two broken consoles and can make one working one out of the two.

Before assuming number 1 or 2 i'd first inspect the traces coming from those chips though. You should also try reflowing the pins on those chips to make sure there's no cold solder joints.

[Anonymous No.4114041]

>>4113952
You can. Nobody does it because everything relies on the main clock frequency for timing and changing it breaks virtually everything.

[Anonymous No.4114741]

>>4114041
I feel like this can't be entirely accurate since the OC option in MESS does not break things. Is it just hacky or something?

[Anonymous No.4114981]

>>4112761

Anybody know?

[Anonymous No.4115225]

>>4114741
The crystal itself is also needed to create the NTSC/PAL video signal.
I'm pretty sure you won't even get a valid signal anymore if you fuck with that.
Dunno if it fucks up even more stuff but you won't even be able to see anything anyways if you fuck with the video output.
Obviously an emulator doesn't have to generate an output signal.

[Anonymous No.4115454]

>>4113505
Recapping is one of the easiest things you can do with old consoles. Just get a soldering iron, buy the caps and get soldering. You can practice with a scrap board first if you want.

(Though there's no guarantee that recapping will fix your sound problem)

[Anonymous No.4115594]

>>4115454
He is right, it is a relatively easy thing to do but be careful! Not only did early NEC consoles cheap out on caps, applying too much heat can rip up soldering pads. I'd recommend a decent $10 desoldering iron, flux and some desoldering wick. Possibly some flush snips and a set of pliers.

But be patient with it.

I'd recommend something simpler and more replaceable to start than a TurboDuo. High risk, high reward.

[Anonymous No.4115605]

>>4115454
>>4115594
>tfw I never soldering in my life
>borrowed my dads soldering iron
>managed to recap my neo-geo MVS board without desoldering braid or a solder sucker

Man up and do it. it ain't that hard.

[Anonymous No.4115682]

>>4115605
There is some truth to be had there. My very first soldering job was to recap a Genesis model 1 that I got for super cheap. I was extremely nervous but over the span of a few days I eventually finished it, taking my time and not using excessive force.

I mean, the system didn't boot before the operation, and still didn't boot after, BUT, the point is it's not too bad once you get a feel for it. I just bought a cheapo soldering iron, a bunch of basic solder and a desoldering braid from Amazon and just went to town.

[Anonymous No.4115687]

>>4115225
Well I did it yesterday anyways just for the hell of it since I had extra systems anyways and video still works. Also has cut down slowdown by quite a bit. I've tried about 20 games at this point and haven't noticed an issue yet. Even Gradius 3 seems slowdown free and that game is slowdown central on a normal SNES. I only OC'd to 4.1 though.

[Anonymous No.4115690]

>>4115454
>>4115594
>>4115605
I understand it is the best route to DIY, but my hands are not steady. My condition is mild, but I know delicate work is something I cannot do. The only "scrap board" I have is that Duo and a Genesis2. I think my lack of funds is a good indication I lack the space and the tools as well. That's why I have to rely on others, therefore I am happy with the "poor" repair work that was already done to the Duo if only to give me time to save up for a proper repair/mod work. Also note that the Duo also has a RGB mod in addition to the recapping, so it's not really simple to me. That "high risk, high reward" factor means if I were to fully destroy the Duo, I still will have to buy another US Duo and still need the same repair and mod done, so that's why I accept the high cost of a repair/mod from a professional, as it is more cost effective in my situation.

I was fortunate enough to have gotten the system and games for their low price in their day. My emotional nostalgic investment into the Duo is why I am willing to work/save it from its inevitable doom.

[Anonymous No.4115698]

>>4115690
Even if you have some kind of nerve damage in you hands, it would be cheaper overall, buy equipment, to learn how to solder, and do the mods yourself.

Sending your stuff out to people is insanely expensive. It's basically not worth it to have other people mod your stuff.

[Anonymous No.4115781]

>>4115687
Well it depends on how far off spec it gets. If you go too far your display won't get synced up anymore.
Seems like you're still fine I guess.

[Anonymous No.4116303]

I want to delete all my saves on the 3DO, I don't have that Memory management cd so I was wondering. Can you just delete them by removing that round battery?

[Anonymous No.4116442]

I don't know if this is the right place to ask but how do I convert a .sav to .srm? I have old .sav from vba but I want to use them with retroarch. Does anyone know how?

[Anonymous No.4116587]

>>4116442
I googled ".sav .srm converter" and got the answer on the first page. What's your excuse?

[Anonymous No.4116605]

If I were lucky enough to get a 1chip03 snes, would it be worth doing the CSync restoration mod or can you truly get identical results using Sync on Luna cables?

On a related topic, I've been looking for a near mint condition 1chip Super Famicom or PAL SNES (which I'd mod for 60Hz);
I've seen a 'like new' Super Fami 1chip03 asking £140, and a 1chip01 asking £125. In either case I'd attempt to bid lower but would the 03 be worth that extra amount?

[Anonymous No.4116628]

>>4116303
Just burn the ISO for the memory manger to a CD-R.

http://www.theisozone.com/downloads/retro/3do/0--3do-storage-manager-v21/

[Anonymous No.4116658]

>>4116628
>>4116303
Or better yet, use this

http://www.theisozone.com/downloads/retro/3do/0--game-guru/

[Anonymous No.4117701]

>>4116628
>>4116658
But I could also delete the saves by removing the battery right?

[Anonymous No.4117739]

>>4117701
Yes

[Anonymous No.4117838]

Do you prefer the THS7374 over the THS7314 amp for the 1chip SNES?
Does this mod fix the issues of brightness/colour balance, ghosting/ringing, and vertical bar?

[Anonymous No.4118031]

Hi /vr/os, can anyone comment on pic related?
If the issue is likely to be noticeable, then I'll just buy a new console rather than mod my current one. Thanks.

[Anonymous No.4118117]

>>4118031
>playing retro on HDTVs

Looks like a non-issue to me.

[Anonymous No.4118119]

>>4118031
Why even do this mod? Just take your SNES apart and use it as a skeleton SNES and have region free capability.

[Anonymous No.4118208]

Snes first revision has video problems, any idea if this would be a dying PPU or something easier and cheaper to fix like a dry cap?

Guy told me hes using the multiout and doesnt have a RF cable to test the other video output.
Audio works fine.

[Anonymous No.4118229]

>>4118119
I dunno about the here >>4118031 mentioned 3chip board
https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/58f4066552aab29b4b615482f2ea37f0.png
but the 1chip/SNES mini version has both PAL and NTSC crystals
https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/918fbae13d5075b777fcb4163c4400d0.png
For full region free capability you don't just need to be able to plugin in the cartridge.
PAL games can glitch when run at NTSC speeds and the same goes the other way. One example would be SMW. A PAL one will have the upper half of the screen go apeshit when in a level if you run it in NTSC.
Also, if you just disable your consoles CIC some stuff like later revision SA1 games won't boot.
These boards are a pretty gud solution to have an all in one package if you ask me.
You also get a couple of neat key combinations so my lazy ass doesn't have to stand up to reset the console 'n stuff.
https://github.com/borti4938/Switchless-Mods/blob/master/SNES/uigr_16f684/Manuals/uIGR_Manual.pdf

Currently in the process of making my own board of the 1chip version for my mini actually. Missing a few parts still though.

[Anonymous No.4118865]

>>4117739
>>4117701
>>4116658
>>4116628
I took a look but it seems the battery is solderd. Do those Memory management cds have an option to wipe everything from the battery?

[Anonymous No.4118947]

>>4118229
Thanks
What I ultimately want to know is; if I mod my old pal snes for 60hz with the supercic mod, just how frequent and noticeable are these supposed stutter issues? If it's either non-existent or requires extreme autism to detect, then that's fine and I'll go for it, but if it's an annoyance, I'll get a Super Famicom board instead. I wish I could find an example of the issue on YouTube

[Anonymous No.4118992]

>>4118947
I've done the 60hz mod the old way with a switch for my 3chip PAL SNES but for switching the output frequency it works the exact same way as the super CIC.
Can't say I've ever noticed anything like that at all and if I hadn't read that stuff in your image earlier I wouldn't know what you're talking about.
I wouldn't worry about it. And even then, it's still the best option you have unless you wanna switch to a 1chip variant.

[Anonymous No.4119095]

>>4118992
That's good to know. I've heard it's less of an issue when using rgb, even if using HDTV. If you're saying I could use it to play full speed ntsc roms via flashcart then I'd be happy for sure.

There's still the issue of whether to go 1chip (a board swap would kill 2 birds with 1 stone) - part of me likes a bit of softness instead of razor sharp pixels, but then again maybe the softness I liked as a kid was more due to the crt. Thoughts? It's such a rabbit hole

[Anonymous No.4119805]

I just ordered a Famicom off of eBay and was wondering what options I have for modding it to output composite or (preferably) s-video. I can't seem to find a good mod kit by Google searching, is there anything you guys would recommend? Also, how easy would this mod be for a first time modder? I have experience with circuits from physics classes and I'm generally pretty handy with making repairs. The only other work I've done on a console was adjusting the voltage on my PS1 laser.

[Anonymous No.4119808]

>>4118031
There are some cases where the issue will be very noticeable.

>>4118865
No. Memory management CDs only wipe the memory. They don't touch the battery. Maybe you want a battery management CD. kek

[Anonymous No.4119845]

hey would anyone know of any good tutortials or could explain how to fix a broken hdmi port on a sony wega KV-34HS420?

[Anonymous No.4119846]

>>4119845
also i believe it stopped working after a thunderstorm. also took out an hdmi port on my ps3. funny thing is, is that it was plugged into a surge protector.

[Anonymous No.4119863]

>>4119808
I meant saves sorry, Do these memory management cds have an option to wipe all saves? Because I tried to delete some manually but at some save it just freezes everytime

[Anonymous No.4120243]

>>4119845
I didn't even know there was such a thing as a CRT with HDMI.

[Anonymous No.4120258]

>>4119808
>There are some cases where the issue will be very noticeable
Could you please elaborate? Sorry to be a pain.
My intention would be to use my old SNES at 60Hz, with a flashcart that has NTSC ROMs on it, connected to a HDTV using an OSSC

[Anonymous No.4120317]

>>4120258
It's not completely obvious at first, but that warning is probably about connecting a 60Hz source to a TV that only outputs 50Hz, hence juddering. It can't possibly be anything to do with the SuperCIC mod or PAL consoles in particular.

That's the only feasible explanation I can think of, as there are NO timing differences between a SuperCIC modded SNES and a stock SNES of any region.

A half-assed SuperCIC mod won't adjust the video carrier so you'll get NTSC50 from an original NTSC or PAL60 from a PAL system, but that's not the problem here either.

The person who wrote that and runs that website is clearly a mong.

[Anonymous No.4120328]

>>4120317
It's from the OSSC website
https://www.videogameperfection.com/products/snes-super-cic-board/

they elaborate on timing here;
https://www.videogameperfection.com/2012/06/22/what-causes-games-to-stutter/

But I'm a retard so I'm still not clear on whether what I want will result in problems

[Anonymous No.4120350]

>>4119846
Funny thing about surge protectors is that they have a limited lifespan and if you've been using one for years it probably has a worn out protection circuit that can no longer stop the rated surge.

[Anonymous No.4120531]

>>4119805
It's also worth noting that I have a Famiclone (true clone, not a NOAC) that supposedly supports A/V out, but I can't get it to work on my TV. I could use it for donor parts, but since I'm not sure what's wrong with it, I don't know which parts are good and which aren't. Perhaps you guys could help me diagnose the problem (sorry if I'm asking too much, any help is greatly appreciated).

I can post pictures once I get off work if you'd like.

[Anonymous No.4120874]

>>4102003
If you live in the UK/Europe I'd recommend looking at Deadpan Robot or Gameboyshack, they're dedicated Game Boy modding sites that have a ton of replacement shells (both reproductions and custom)

[Anonymous No.4121521]

>>4119863
I've never seen one with the option to format the SRAM. You could do it with the debugger or make a disc but you're going to have to replace the battery at some point and probably make it easier to deal with in the future so may as well just get that out of the way now and kill two birds with one stone.

>>4120258
>elaborate
Sure. When Nintendo did their official SNES 60hz mod they didn't do it that way because it has problems.

[Anonymous No.4121530]

>>4121521
>problems
Are these problems dependent on the TV, and perhaps the type of cable used?
Do they only affect PAL games played at forced 60Hz or even NTSC games too?

[Anonymous No.4121705]

Has anyone ever created a cable to fit the 34 pin sony rgb multi-out? If so, can you confirm the pinout you used?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.4121741]

>>4121705
http://www.hardwarebook.info/Sony_RGB_Multi_Input

Not my notes, but known working from someone else with a 25XBR.

[Anonymous No.4121748]

>>4121741
Thanks, how does he say the picture is?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.4121759]

>>4121748
https://imgur.com/a/d6pLI

He seemed pretty happy with it, and upset the camera wasn't cooperating.

[Anonymous No.4121765]

>>4121759
Oh, he just used a ribbon cable? I was going to use something different, but if it worked for him I'll just do that.

[Anonymous No.4121831]

Is it true that if you refurbish a N64 controller and grease the fuck out of the analog stick, it will stay nice and tight for a long time?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.4121905]

>>4121765
Using something more sturdy and shielded would probably be a much better choice, but I think that was his "proof of concept" setup, to make sure it even worked properly over RGB.

[Anonymous No.4122038]

>>4121530
Some depend on the TV. With a cheap modern one you will have many more problems. The cable can be an issue but probably won't. NTSC games will have a problem. There's a reason Nintendo did their 60hz SNESs the way they did. And they just happen to know a little more about SNES hardware than kids on the internet.

[Anonymous No.4123996]

My crt won't output audio. It's got speakers that attach directly to the TV with speaker wire, but they won't play sound from there. If I plug in an audio receiver to the audio out from the TV, I can get the audio, but I'd like to fix the tv. If the audio is still passing through the tv, I take it as a good sign that the audio circuitry is intact, but does anyone have any ideas?

[Anonymous No.4124402]

>>4105742
Would be nice, there are some on eBay but they don't have controllers, and without controllers good luck using it. Highly doubt anyone's got the pinout for you to make your own.

I'm thinking now to say screw "consolizing" and just run a fucking female DB25 connector into the back and then just wire up an old 360 or OG Xbox controller to be Male DB25 and do that instead.

Thoughts?

[Anonymous No.4124470]

>>4121530
The juddering is specifically about running a 60Hz signal on a TV that only supports 50Hz. Some TV manufacturers have a reputation for being shit and locking the firmware to a specific frame rate, but it doesn't seem too common nowadays.

The SuperCIC mod includes both PAL and NTSC clocks, so timing is 1:1 with a stock SNES of either region. At this point you're just wondering whether your TV is one of the shit ones or not.

Pic the SuperCIC schematic (1chip/mini version). On the bottom right there is a pin that adjusts the color carrier as needed. This will result in PAL60/NTSC50 if not connected. Most TVs will handle the former, but will go apeshit with the latter. This won't matter if the SNES is connected via RGB. This doesn't come up too often as most people autistic enough to have their SNES modded are autistic enough to use RGB as well.

If you're paying someone else to do the mod, make sure they do the color carrier bit as well. I'm like 99% sure that won't affect actual timing, but it's nice to have.

[Anonymous No.4124482]

>>4108125
>there's a $1 pin compatible FRAM

Im still interested tho, can you link me to any tutorial or more info about this? never heard of it.

[Anonymous No.4124525]

>>4124470
The all in one PCB he linked actually lists doing what you just mentioned as a necessary step in the installation manual. Not optional.

[Anonymous No.4124767]

I just found my old PS1 slim in the loft. Was really surprised to find it up there as I always believed my dad had sold it when he bought me a PS2 slim in the mid 2000's.

When I plugged it in and powered it up it seems to no longer read games. It goes directly to this screen after the Sony logo, I've tried a few different games but none of them work (I know they're fine cause I play them on my PS2). I've noticed that the discs don't seem to be spinning, which might be the issue. Or it could be the laser, I don't know.

Anyone know an easy fix?

>inb4 bin it
I could easily buy another pretty cheaply but this is my childhood PS1 so I'm reluctant to give it up.

[Anonymous No.4124784]

>>4124767
>The drive won't spin if the console can't detect a CD.
>The console can't detect a CD if the laser can't focus
>The laser can't focus if it's getting too weak.
You can try opening up the console. There's a potentiometer on one side of the laser assembly that regulates how much power the laser gets. You can try increasing the power a little by little and see if that does anything. Only do that by small increments though since too much can fry the laser regardless.

If it's really completely dead I'm gonna go ahead and tell you, that you'll have to pay more for a replacement laser assembly than a replacement console just so you know.

[Anonymous No.4124884]

I'm a crappy solderer and I want to improve my ability (I've fixed very basic wiring before but nothing detailed and not much with PCBs).

Coincidentally, my game gear has the dark screen problem and thus needs new caps. Is this a good project on which to cut my teeth?

[Anonymous No.4124965]

I should have posted pics of this like 2 weeks ago when I finished the mod but this is my RGB modded Atari 2600 Vader that I mentioned in the last thread. Added a red LED power indicator to the top, and polished all the metal switches with steel wool before sealing them with clear Rustoleum to prevent future oxidization / corrosion. I also did the extra button mod on the controller, which is extremely handy especially if you have an extension cable for it.

More pics in a sec.

[Anonymous No.4124973]

>>4124965
I guess it's nice, but what's the point of RGB on a 2600? Composite would be more than enough

[Anonymous No.4124975]

>>4124884
Yes and no. The Game Gear is a good system to learn surface soldering with, but if you don't have soldering experience with through-hole soldering, it can be a bit of a scary thing to try and fix. I think the Atari 2600 and NES are generally better systems to start with, but better still, just go to your local Goodwill and find an old alarm clock or something to try practicing on rather than something valuable like a game console. An old alarm clock will cost you like $3 and if if you break it, it's nothing to get sad over.

[Anonymous No.4124989]

>>4124973
There is a huge difference between RGB and composite. Even with a properly installed composite mod, the signal is still going to look noisy and blurry. RGB on the 2600 looks razor sharp and it also has multiple color pallet options. I love playing with the vivid pallet since it makes the games look even more colorful than they did on the original configuration.

I also put a composite jack on the back of my unit and have gone back and forth between RGB and composite to compare. The RGB is a much cleaner and sharper signal overall, where you can make out each pixel easily. Everything looks fuzzier over composite.

[Anonymous No.4124991]

>>4124989

[Anonymous No.4124993]

>>4124991

[Anonymous No.4124996]

>>4124993

[Anonymous No.4125035]

I am going to be replacing the DC jack on my 001 SNES soon. Is a solder pump necessary? I was just gonna apply pressure and soften it until it came out and do the same in reverse for the replacement piece.

[Anonymous No.4125052]

>>4092808
OSHpark. OSHpark for everything

[Anonymous No.4125056]

>>4125052
Are you retarded? He clearly said 'chinese'
Go with PCBWay or Elecrow for chinese manufacturers

[Anonymous No.4125230]

Hello, greetings from /v/.

Sorry if this is off-topic, but is the guy that hosts the wiki in here? We need help. The old /v/'s recommended games wiki has been overrun by redditors who shamelessly admit they have no idea what /v/ even is. So, we all abandoning it, and we want to start a new one. Would you be willing to host the new wiki on your domain? The reason I thought to ask you first is because I know you're hosting /vg/'s emulation wiki after they abandoned Wikia.

Thank you for your time.

[Anonymous No.4125258]

>>4125230
fag

[Anonymous No.4125371]

>>4125230
Samefag here.
Link to the /v/ thread (I'm not the OP, but I thought I'd just ask here): >>>/v/384150142

[Anonymous No.4126104]

>>4124482
>$6.5 for a $1 part
wew lad. I appreciate those are prices for onsies and I'm a super huge operation that orders 10 at a time but fuck me. I can get onsies of a more recent part with 150 years retention for less.

>tutorial
1. Unsolder old chip
2. Solder in new chip
Extra credit: Look up the meaning of pin compatible

[Anonymous No.4126119]

>>4109942
Just for the record, those caps were probably ordered from tayda. I use the same ones in stuff I build for fun.

While I wouldn't use them in something important like that, when I get them new they always test well within tolerance. Your problem is most likely the solder joints or pads and not the caps.

The mod guy wanted the parts bill to be like $2 and not the $20 it would've been with japanese caps.

[Anonymous No.4126157]

>>4126104
What part has that type of retention and is pin compatible?

Not the same guy but I am wondering because I would love to get some of the FX games.

[Anonymous No.4126204]

>>4126157
not him but the datasheet for that fm1808 does say 151 years

I'd like to hear about a cheaper part though. It's like $15 each on mouser, and I couldn't find anything else like it on there except the fm18w8 which isn't much cheaper

[Anonymous No.4126427]

>>4124470
Here's my understanding on the issue;
When you mod a 2Chip PAL SNES for 60Hz, it's still using the PAL timing crystal, which results in a 60Hz that is ever so slightly different from the NTSC/Super Famicom 60Hz, so it might be something like 60.1Hz vs 60.01Hz.

On CRT's this difference is inconsequential, so you're essentially getting perfect 60Hz after the mod.

On a good HDTV, the difference is also still inconsequential.

On a 'bad' HDTV, it will frame-convert it to something like 59.94Hz, which would result in a stutter. I've never seen this occur however, so I think I will take a chance and get mine modded to test it out, knowing there's a reasonable chance it will be fine

[Anonymous No.4126984]

>>4126157
FM18W08

>>4126204
The datasheet for the FM1808 says 45 years. W is 151. I paid $1 for my last batch of 1808s. The same supplier has Ws for $3.
Mouser/digikey/rs have worse prices than ebay resellers.

[Anonymous No.4127330]

>>4124975
Is there something I would do to the alarm clock in particular? I don't really know what I should practice. Like, do I just work on desoldering and resoldering parts?

[Anonymous No.4127331]

>>4124989
>multiple color palette options

How so?

[Anonymous No.4127421]

>>4127330
>Like, do I just work on desoldering and resoldering parts?

Yes. If you can desolder components and resolder them and the clock is still working then you're on the right track. It might sound boring and pointless but it's how you learn the process so you won't make a mistake on something you want to use.

[Anonymous No.4127428]

>>4127331
The kit lets you add an additional modifier button to the Atari joystick. Hold the modifier and press the fire button, and it changes the pallet. There's a default one that looks close to how the original colors did, a "cool" pallet that makes the colors look more blue, and a vivid / enhanced pallet that really makes the colors pop (this is the one I prefer to play with). The best example I like to use is Pitfall, where the jungle greens look much greener, Harry's face looks like actual fleshtone, etc. All around it makes everything look much more dynamic and colorful.

[Anonymous No.4127445]

>>4126427
The SuperCIC mod includes both PAL and NTSC crystals and switches between them as necessary. As far as I know, all the video stuff is derived from that master clock, so I don't see how timing would be any different.

IIRC, the SNES (and NES?) do output picture at slightly above 60Hz anyway, but it's supposedly well within tolerance levels. I think we're all in agreement that the problem is ultimately with bad TVs more than anything.

This guy has the numbers:
http://problemkaputt.de/fullsnes.htm#snestimingoscillators

Those dot clock numbers have me wondering though. I'd assume that would be different in NTSC60 and PAL50 and taken care of by the mod, but I don't know for certain.

Anyone with a SuperCIC modded SNES feel like doing some probing?

[Anonymous No.4127556]

>>4127445
Actually, only the 1Chip version does include both crystals.

I don't know why the 3chip one doesn't have/need it though. If I had to guess, I'd say the crystals are integrated into one of the PPU's on those boards maybe...

[Anonymous No.4127616]

>>4127445
>>4127556
The master clock of the NTSC consoles is 6x times the subcarrier (3.574545mhz*6=21.44727mhz).
On the PAL consoles they couldn't do the same as with the NES (4.4336187mhz*6=26.601712mhz), so they used 4x times the PAL subcarrier (17.734474mhz) which can be easily divided by 4 for the video encoder but used a PLL frequency multiplier circuit (that IC named S-CLK) to multiply that frequency by 1.2x times to get 21.281368mhz so they can still use the same video and CPU timing as with the NTSC consoles thus reuse the exact same chips where they intended to have them to support both 50/60hz from the beginning (yes, the first SFC consoles that has been ever made could be modded to display 50hz).
On 1chip that PLL has been integrated into the die and is enabled along with the 50/60hz switch, so the source clock (and video encoder circuit) must be changed as well.

All that effort was done to keep the pixel clock somewhat in sync with the subcarrier to keep the dot crawl still (or slowly moving if interlacing is enabled which is used by a few games only).

Now, the only notable difference between PAL and NTSC consoles is the frequency ratio between the master clock (~21mhz) and the audio subsystem clock (24.576mhz). The only game I know which is sensitive to this is Earthworm Jim 2 which uses HDMA to stream sound effects to the audio subsystem in realtime.

[Anonymous No.4127634]

>>4105961
>Some times you can fix it by looking at the chips legs on the board. If you see one that's ify touch it up with some fresh solder. I've fixed a few carts doing that. One cart I had to solder a wire between two chips the entire trace was trashed so I just bypassed it. Worked.

[Anonymous No.4127638]

>>4108764
That's some gold level diagnostic advice.

[Anonymous No.4127645]

>>4109942
That solder job looks terrible. He didn't clear the holes to put the new caps in place? He just put them in sideways after clipping off the old ones?

>Look like bad caps too. What are they?
>Boo!

[Anonymous No.4127649]

>>4127645
>He didn't clear the holes to put the new caps in place?
He probably replaced surface mount capacitors with through hole ones.

[Anonymous No.4127650]

>>4110210
Just ask someone who can repair PC motherboards. Done.

[Anonymous No.4127703]

>>4115594
>>4115605
>>4115682

>Wrong, don't bother with cheap low wattage soldering irons. I like old Xytronic Irons. Hakko makes good new stuff. There's nothing more frustrating that trying to fix delicate work with cheap junk.

[Anonymous No.4127710]

>>4127649
Yea, I see that now.

[Anonymous No.4127713]

>>4127703
These Katsu 936 stations are actually pretty decent if you're on a budget (<£25 on eBay UK)

[Anonymous No.4127732]

>>4127713
Yea, I've heard good things about stations like that. I waited and pounced on some good used stuff for around $40 for an old xytronic analog readout iron. I think I paid around $50 or 60 for my xytronic desoldering station which works very well too. Very high wattage.

I wouldn't call what you posted cheap. It's not a Radio Shack 25w POS.

[Anonymous No.4127743]

>>4127713
This except mine's in great condition. I really like it.

[Anonymous No.4127784]

>>4115605
Most MVS boards are built like tanks.
Fiberglass with epoxy and thick, sturdy copper traces. Pads and traces are a full 2 mils thick and embedded in the epoxy layer. Exposed traces and pads are gold plated against corrosion. Built to withstand 20 years of Hong Kong smoke and yaton grime, and being shipping across the ocean in Chinese container ships with little or no packing standards.

TurboDuo/PCE boards are assembled from lacquer coated cardboard and copper paint for traces and conductive stickers for pads.
Built to live in an air-conditioned apartment, and barely survive shipping via truck in a box with more Styrofoam than product.

[Anonymous No.4128240]

>>4127616
holy shit i don't really understand any of that, but you clearly know your stuff. Do you think that a SuperCIC modded 2Chip PAL SNES will, more often than not, provide perfect 60Hz?

[Anonymous No.4129161]

Has anyone actually de-yellowed their SNES without having the yellow return some time after? If it's temporary then it's absolutely pointless imo

>>4106740
>Get some matching vinyl dye
Is there one that actually matches the SNES light grey?

[Anonymous No.4129201]

>>4129161
It is temporary. Theres nothing you can do about it. It's a chemical reaction in the plastic. Retrobright helps reverse it, but it will come back eventually.

It can be worth it to do. Basically it's light maintenance that helps reduce the chance of the shell becoming brittle and breaking. You can reduce the rate the yellowing comes back by storing it in a dark place.

[Anonymous No.4129265]

>>4129201
thanks for clarifying. Mine's already brittle so I'm just gonna embrace it

[Anonymous No.4129375]

>>4128240
>Do you think that a SuperCIC modded 2Chip PAL SNES will, more often than not, provide perfect 60Hz?
Good enough for the majority of NTSC games but like I said EWJ2 is sensitive to the clock ratio between CPU and the audio subsystem. However I'm not aware of other games that stream audio samples with HDMA.
If you really want to play EWJ2 in 60hz then go for the PAL version, it might be possible that the NTSC version won't sound right on your console regardless of the 50/60hz setting.

Also don't always expect PAL versions to work flawlessly in 60hz. (no matter if they were originally developed for NTSC consoles, who knows what programming changes were made)

[Anonymous No.4129852]

>>4127703
>>4127713
>>4127732
For what it's worth, this is the one I purchased.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KBIB3M/

Currently not available but only cost me $15 and has done me well so far. I'll look into those soldering stations though, thanks for the heads up. What is a good temperature setting when working on circuit boards with standard solder?

[Anonymous No.4129969]

Do SNES baby's font works with the fat model? Behind the console it's saying something like
>use with SNS-002 font only

But the font is actually SNSM-002.

Would it work? The output of the SNSM model is 9.3V/850mA, while the SNS model reads 10V/850mA.

Any help appreciated.

[Anonymous No.4129976]

>>4129969
>>use with SNS-002 font only
Huh?

[Anonymous No.4129985]

>>4129976
Sorry

>use with AC adapter No SNS-002 only

[Anonymous No.4129997]

>>4129969
>Would it work? The output of the SNSM model is 9.3V/850mA, while the SNS model reads 10V/850mA.
It's likely that'll work since all it does is feed a 5 V regulator. Just make sure that the one you have is center-negative or you may blow the fuse. I don't know whether the fat SNES has protection diodes but the small one doesn't.

[Anonymous No.4130176]

>>4108764
>>4127638
Just an update on those carts: I swapped the SRAMs from one to the other, made new saves on both, waited a week without touching them, and then checked for power. Both SRAMs were still powered. I tried both games and they're both holding saves fine now (it's been 9 days, so at least I think I can conclude that now). I'm glad they're working, but honestly I'm not sure what exactly I did to fix them. If one of the SRAMs were actually bad, then you'd think the cart I transplanted it to would stop holding saves. It seems a little unlikely, since I did try shaking and smacking the board a bit to see if I could cause it to lose a save, but maybe there was a poor connection between one of the legs of the SRAM and the board, in which case simply reflowing the legs of the chip would presumably have solved it without any need to replace it.

[Anonymous No.4130446]

>>4129375
I don't intend to play PAL games in forced 60Hz; it will just be NTSC ROMs on a flashcart. If I can do that without seeing a stuttering effect on my HDTV I'll be happy

[Anonymous No.4130617]

Recently picked up an AGS-101 for 10 bucks. Needs some work, but I have a question about the screen. The bottom of the screen, particularly the bottom right seems a bit darker than the rest of the screen. Wondering if it's normal or the screen is just giving up.

[Anonymous No.4130717]

>>4126119
Yeah, I would guess the replacement capacitor quality was sacrificed to keep the cost within budget. I was more grateful someone was willing to save my Duo.


>>4127645
>>4127649
From the YouTube videos I have seen from game-tech.us regarding TurboDuo repairs, I think the pads are "surface mount" as he showed off a ceramic tiny solid piece being soldered on. Again, forgive me for my ignorance since I know nothing about this electronic stuff, so I may be talking out my ass.


>>4127650
That is what I did and ended out with the results seen in >>4109942 and now the sound and sync or RGB cable (JP21 spec as requested) may be all messed up.


I've started to save up, and hope to have enough to have it properly done in a couple years.

[Anonymous No.4130805]

>>4079925
Help?
Dell E773C 17" Monitor with a Maximum resolution of 1280 x 1024 at 60Hz (The aspect ratio was wrong so I changed it to 1280 x 960 at 72Hz).

[Anonymous No.4130979]

>>4130805
seems maybe a loose connection on the neck board

[Anonymous No.4131124]

Can someone please point me in the direction of a good diy guide for doing a snes (jap/eu model) board swap? Text/images or video is fine.

I'm sure it's not too difficult but I've never cracked open a console before. Thanks

[Anonymous No.4131270]

>>4131124
Do you have a screwdriver? It's stupid simple to open an SNES without breaking anything

[Anonymous No.4131274]

>>4131270
yeah, i just figured there might be loose parts flying around and I'd forget where things go when putting it all back together

[Anonymous No.4132490]

>>4131124
>>4131274
Have you checked youtube for a disassembly video?

[Anonymous No.4132994]

My Saturn's laser is dead.
It's a Va15 japanese board.
Which laser replacemant should i get?

[Anonymous No.4133009]

>>4132490
not in detail. Many of them are long and have a lot of irrelevant and insufferable talking, so I haven't established which one is worth sitting through

[Anonymous No.4133280]

Regarding N64 RGB;

I know with SNES, there are important differences between PAL and NTSC, such that if you use an NTSC SCART cable with a PAL console, you could damage it - Does the same apply to N64? Could I use a NTSC CSync cable with a PAL N64?

[Anonymous No.4133993]

>>4133280
N64 doesn't output RGB unless you've had it modded specifically for that.

That being said, there is no such thing as an "NTSC SCART" or "PAL SCART" cable. SCART is SCART and it was only ever used in Europe from my knowledge, it only describes the pin layout for the cable, the type of signal sent is completely irrelevant. JP21 is a similar cabling standard that was used in Japan and has the same connector, but is completely different pin-wise. Do NOT mix and match unless you want to break your hardware.

[Anonymous No.4134010]

Ran into a problem when trying to remove the 6 Triwing screws on the back of my DMG Game Boy. They're not really stripped badly or anything, but they're stuck in so tight that - when I do try to unscrew them - they spin but don't actually move out. I tried WD40 but nothing happened.
Any ideas? Don't really have access to any crazy stuff but I'm open to suggestions

[Anonymous No.4134110]

>>4121741
>>4121759
Say thanks to your friend for me, I got the cable working first try.
Here's some of the fruits of my labor

[Anonymous No.4134864]

>>4133993
>N64 doesn't output RGB unless you've had it modded specifically for that.
yes I'm well aware of that. This is assuming my N64 is RGB modded

>That being said, there is no such thing as an "NTSC SCART" or "PAL SCART" cable
That's good if true. Assuming an RGB modded N64 supports CSync, the cable I mentioned should work. There are differences between PAL and NTSC SNES's regarding RGB

[Anonymous No.4135078]

>>4134010
sounds like they broke off inside if they spin freely but don't come out.

[Anonymous No.4135215]

I bought the Pokémon Trading Card Game for GBC and it keeps crashing after so many minutes. I cleaned the cartridge but it still does it, the game seems to save fine. Is it fucked?

[Anonymous No.4135496]

>>4135215
Sounds like the rom chip has a dry joint on it.

[Anonymous No.4135796]

Advice on removing a rusted, slightly corroded triwing screw from a DMG? Thing won't budge, it's the last one I need to remove too

[Anonymous No.4135834]

>>4135796
Drill it out or buy a better DMG.

If it's rusted like that chances are the insides are fuxxored beyond economical repair.

[Anonymous No.4136693]

>>4135834
>fuxxored

It's like I'm back in 2006

Seriously though rusted screws are a bad sign. If it's that bad you might as well break the screw off as it'll probably never work again

[Anonymous No.4136710]

Making an SNES controller to NES adapter. I'm going to use extra extension cords I don't use.

Assume I don't have a multi-meter. Is it better to bust open the connectors I need (Female SNES and Male NES) then deal with the pins there and then glue them back together, or is it better to figure out what wires go to which pins (by breaking open the Male SNES and female NES) and then splice the wires on the actual adapter?

[Anonymous No.4136740]

>>4136710
http://www.8bitdo.com/snes30-sfc30/
http://www.8bitdo.com/retro-receiver-nes/

There, now you don't need to destroy a classic controller

[Anonymous No.4136753]

>>4136740
Im using extension cords ya dingus.

[Anonymous No.4136758]

>>4136740
>>4136740
Get the one with the bonus carrying case. Its the same price.

[Anonymous No.4137264]

What are the games that don't work on an NES to FC converter? My NES copy of solstice won't play on my Famicom. Checked everything to be in working order.

[Anonymous No.4137282]

>>4137264
There shouldn't be any unless you mean PAL NES games

[Anonymous No.4137536]

>>4137282
Maybe the game needs some looking at, then.

[Anonymous No.4137606]

So I just replaced the power jack on my SNES and now it wont boot. Im heartbroken.

I have no idea what's wrong. Can anyone help? Should I try the old jack?

[Anonymous No.4137610]

>>4137606
Is the LED lighting up?

If not you blew the fuse on it

[Anonymous No.4137661]

>>4137610
No the LED is not lighting up.

Multimeter shows continuity between the two ends of the fuse. Is it possible I just broke the ribbon cable that leads to the LED? I dont have my a/v out cables with me to test that though.

[Anonymous No.4137668]

>>4137661
Getting 5v on the 7805?

It's also entirely possible you might have pulled up a trace removing the old jack

[Anonymous No.4137681]

>>4137668
Yeah. just tested the ribbon cable for continuity and it seems fine, but I tested the whole cable, not the individual pins. If I post a pic of the soldering, can you tell if I fucked up the traces?

[Anonymous No.4137685]

>>4137681
Yes if you get a good picture

Usually though, its the traces on top under the power jack that get pulled up. Test for continuity on the jack it's self. See if the outside and inside of the barrel connect to the board on the underside.

[Anonymous No.4137695]

>>4137685
Testing for continuity now

[Anonymous No.4137698]

>>4137685
Continuity inside the barrel checks out.

Thanks gor the help.

[Anonymous No.4137701]

>>4137695
That second joint on the right looks a bit messed up. Reflow it and test again

also if the 7805 is outputting 5v then it most likely is fine trace wise.

Was this a working unit before the jack replacement?

[Anonymous No.4137706]

>>4137701
Kinda. It worked but any amount vibration (a door closing in the house, someone walking around too heavely) would cause it to power flash and often vorrupted saves.

[Anonymous No.4137712]

>>4137701
Which trace are you refering to? Can you circle it. If Im being honest, I started drinking when it failed thhe power on test. This is my childhood unit and I would really like to get it working right again.

[Anonymous No.4137714]

>>4137706
What board revision is this?

And thats to be expected with no power jack

have you tried cleaning the slot and games? If it's one of the revisions that the slot can pull off I recommend doing so and cleaning it

This one

I recommend not working on it while drinking. You will just fuck it up more.

[Anonymous No.4137723]

>>4137714
Its a SN002

I dont have games or an av cable to test with. Just the power cable.

Ive redone both those traces multiple times. It has continuity from the barrel to that point you circled.

[Anonymous No.4137726]

>>4137723
I meant the board revision Should be silk screened on

and don't over do those traces or you're going to really fuck it up

Just put it away until you sober up

[Anonymous No.4137730]

>>4137714
Its not liqour, just beer

Here's proof of continuity.

[Anonymous No.4137734]

>>4137730
and you get 5 volts out of the 7805 with the power switch attached and on?

[Anonymous No.4137739]

>>4137726
Board revision SNS-RGB-CPU-01

[Anonymous No.4137746]

>>4137739
Alright

Well try attaching the switch turning it on and testing to see if you get 5v out. If not the 7805 is at fault.

Can you read schematics?

https://console5.com/techwiki/images/1/1b/SNES-Schematic-Power-Reset-CIC.png

You're interested in the top one there.

[Anonymous No.4137754]

>>4137734
This look right?

Im not to familiar with volt meters

[Anonymous No.4137758]

>>4137746
I cannot read schematics.

[Anonymous No.4137760]

>>4137754
you really shouldn't be poking around in your child hood SNES if you don't know what you're doing

But set the volt meter to VDC 20. Flip the board over and measure the middle pin and one of the outside pins, Never measure the outside pins together.

One side should say 9-11v while the other side should say 5v

[Anonymous No.4137767]

>>4137760
>>4137754
Also that board is rusted. It wouldn't surprise me if that was also an issue. Just general corrosion

[Anonymous No.4137770]

>>4137767
>>4137760
>>4137754
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/How-to-test-a-voltage-regulator

Also this is how you do it.

[Anonymous No.4137774]

>>4137760
>>4137760
SNES repair isnt something people do around here anymore. It wasnt working right so I decided to give it my best shot.

Flipped it over and checked the middle 7805 pin against both outer ones and got 0. Is that the issue and if so can I fix it?

[Anonymous No.4137780]

>>4137774
On the VDC 20 setting on the multi meter?

[Anonymous No.4137784]

>>4137780
Yes.

[Anonymous No.4137801]

>>4137784
Seems that maybe the voltage regulator is bad or simply not getting power somewhere.

If you're not getting voltage on ANY side of the regulator there's most likely a broken trace some where.

You're going to need to take the metal shielding off to go deeper Should be a few screw on the underside of the circuit board and one in the voltage regulator

I need a nice clean shot of this area. That big fat trace I circled and the area around it

[Anonymous No.4137810]

>>4137801
I decided to tap into the liqour so I closed it up for the night. In the morning I will get you the pictures your requested as well as test some more traces. I really appreciate your help and please check back into this thread. Im gonna get this thing working. I dont give up.

[Anonymous No.4137814]

>>4137810
No problem. It's most likely a broken trace.

One test you can do is to set the meter to OHM the upside down U and test in between the 2 on the power switch connector and the circled pin of the regulator

if it doesn't come up with any numbers, you have a broken trace.

Do this while the console is UNPLUGGED

[Anonymous No.4137818]

>>4137814
Wow, thanks for the pic and detailed instructions. Ill be on it when I wake up. I was really hoping this would be a simple repair. I hope its not aomething aerious thats wrong with it.

[Anonymous No.4137827]

>>4137818
If its a broken trace, it will be easy to fix, simply a jumper wire will fix it unless that's not the only issue

also check the fuse the thing labeled F1 in OHM mode with the power off. Numbers = good fuse No numbers = blown fuse.

and the Regulator is about a $5 part at any major parts store. Just be sure to pick up some thermal grease and put that behind it if you do end up replacing it. Helps with the heat.

Also, don't operate the SNES without the heat sync or the regulator will get very very hot and die. A simple 5-10 second power test won't hurt it though.

[Anonymous No.4138032]

>>4136693
Yeah I don't intend on keeping the screw, only problem is I can't really get it out easily and I don't want to ruin the case by drilling. Worst case scenario, should I just pull the case apart and get new housing? The Game Boy works really fine with an AC adapter, it can't be too fuxxored
That just motivates me to fix it even more

[Anonymous No.4138486]

>>4137801
A picture of the trace.

[Anonymous No.4138493]

>>4137814
The traces have continuity.

[Anonymous No.4138519]

>>4138493
Am I dumb or should that not be 1.5kohm for what should be a direct connection?

Easiest just to measure voltage produced by the 7805 when turned on. (Measure between 2nd and 3rd leg of the device)

[Anonymous No.4138530]

>>4138519
The ohm fell pretty quick, the picture was taken like as soon as the pins made contact.

I just reattached the LED and power switch and checked the 7805. Still nothing to or from it.

[Anonymous No.4138542]

>>4138530
To add to this, there is continuity from the jack to the voltage regulator. Im at a loss here guys. What did I do?

[Anonymous No.4138580]

>>4137814
Should there be continuity between 1 and G?

[Anonymous No.4138709]

I decided to just go with original thought and try the original jack.

Look.

I guess hyperkin sent me a faulty part.

[Anonymous No.4138749]

how hard is it to install a kazumi 4/MMC based modchip into a scph9001 ps1?
most I've ever done was installing my saturn modchip.

[Anonymous No.4139004]

>>4138749
As long as you're competent with a soldering iron, have a steady hand and use small core wires (I recommend 0.2mm magnet wire. Very fine, easy to route and you don't have to worry about getting the insulation off because you can just melt it off with your iron) I would say it's actually pretty easy.

[Anonymous No.4139790]

>>4138709
>>4138580
>>4138493
>>4138486
Very very strange. I imagine the original jack is cracked and that's why you replaced it right? I'm at a loss as to why that one is working and the replacement isn't

You should go over the board with some 91% alcohol and some q-tips and clean the board

Also, 1 on the power jack pin should connect to C32 a small ceramic cap on the underside.

[Anonymous No.4139805]

>>4139790
Yeah, the original jack was missing the inner barrel. I cleaned the pins on them and repositioned them in a way to get better contact. Still no idea why the replacement wasnt working. It was continuous in all the right places. My guess is that the jack on the power supplys side may be to blame but who knows. Maybe years of it working with the broken jack did something to it.

[Anonymous No.4139808]

>>4139805
Oh, its entirely possible the inner pin is bent on your power supply.

[Anonymous No.4139836]

>>4139808
Look alright to you? I dont have anything to reference it against. I had to put it through a paper towel to get my camera to focus on it.

The cable was also spliced back together in the middle some years ago after a dog chewed through it, but I never had an issue because of that.

[Anonymous No.4139841]

>>4139836
forgot pic

[Anonymous No.4139846]

>>4139841
Original jack after cleaning and repositioning the pins. Seems to be working better, but If the dogs are getting rowdy or the toddle handsy Im sure itll reset itself. Hopefully less often now.

[Anonymous No.4139851]

>>4139846
forgot pick again.

[Anonymous No.4139928]

Can anyone spoonfeed me the BEST way to unfuck a N64 analog stick?
Is it even possible?
If the answer is "get a new one", is there a way to prevent loosening?

>inb4 steel sticks
not prepared to wait or pay that much

[Anonymous No.4139981]

>>4139851
could always try and super glue it in

>>4139841
>>4139851
And these look about right.

[Anonymous No.4140025]

Anyone know why a NES could randomly stop working? The red light doesn't even turn on.
I haven't dropped it or abused it in any way and it worked last time I used it months ago.
I was thinking it might be the power supply, but wasn't too sure

[Anonymous No.4140031]

>>4140025
Entirely possible. Check the plug with a multi meter

[Anonymous No.4140058]

>>4140031
Lets say I don't own a multimeter.
Any suggestions on buying one cheaply since I don't do a lot of modding or repairs?

[Anonymous No.4140149]

>>4140058
Ebay or however you can get your hands on to Uni-T U136B. Cost you maybe 12 - 15 dollars on ebay. Other Uni-T models are available too, but probably cost you more. Then there are also AN8008(maybe bit more expensive than the Uni-T) and DT830D(poorfag tier, few dollars, make sure it's the D model for continuity)

[Anonymous No.4141075]

>>4140025

Does it work when you use a 9V DC power supply?

[Anonymous No.4141475]

Where do you guys buy your electronic components? I'm trying to find a store online for the resistors and capacitors I need for a Famicom AV mod. Thanks senpai!

>pic unrelated

[Anonymous No.4141539]

I'm having a lot of trouble soldering to some female scart plugs I bought. They're just small metal points where the male ones I got come with nice solder cups.

Anyone know where to get the female ones with solder cups?

[Anonymous No.4142252]

>>4139928
bump

[Anonymous No.4142258]

My SEGA CDX doesn't hold saves. I just lost like 2 hours of DUNE and I'm mad as heck.

Do I have to replace the internal battery?

[Anonymous No.4142262]

>>4141539
Did you check with the place that sold you the ones with the solder cups? Did you check ebay? The answer to one or more of these questions is no.

[Anonymous No.4142280]

>>4141475
Digikey and Mouser and maybe Ebay.

>>4142258
That'd be a good place to start. You should replace it. I am not sure if it's a rechargeable version like in the normal Sega CD 1 or 2.

[Anonymous No.4142294]

>>4141475
guys (male) or guys (female)?

[Anonymous No.4142554]

I'm building a D-pad controller with the Atari 2600 standard for my C64. I have a prototype working, but all the directional buttons are just cheap tactile buttons in a single row (Up, Down, Left Right) on the breadboard.

Is there a larger type of board suited for a plus-shaped array of four buttons, or just a discrete D-pad component out there? I'd be grateful if anyone knew of such a thing.

[Anonymous No.4142718]

>>4142554
Yes larger bread boards exist.

http://www.jameco.com/z/WBU-208-R-3220-Point-Solderless-Breadboard-7-3-Lx7-5-W_20812.html?CID=GOOG&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgY6Brtah1QIVDp7ACh2mOwMGEAkYAiABEgLL2_D_BwE

I'm not aware of any discrete D-pad component out there.

[Anonymous No.4143021]

>>4142554
I can pretty much guarantee there's a larger board available if your board is too small. I've seen yuge things. There are also plus shaped 4 button boards but you'll need mount the top part and deal with the case. Honestly if you're having any problems with this you do much better to get a cheap dpad and mod it.

[Anonymous No.4144691]

I'm eyeing a 1chip03 snes online, but I'm aware it will need several mods, such as C-Sync restoration, colour re-balancing, and vertical bar fix. Are these all relatively simple to do? I have a tiny bit of soldering experience.

I've read about some rgb bypass amp you can get (THS7314 or 7374); do either of those solve all the issues I mentioned above?

[Anonymous No.4144723]

>>4144691
Have you considered, you know, just buying it so you can play the games?

[Anonymous No.4144743]

>>4144723
Did you forget what thread you are in? That should go without saying. I'm getting a flashcart.

The point of going for this console is to get the best picture possible

[Anonymous No.4145235]

>>4144691
The RGB Bypass should fix the vertical bar. As for csync, you'll still have to restore that.
You could honestly also just go for sync on luma though .
There's virtually no difference if you use a well shielded cable.

[Anonymous No.4145247]

>>4145235
what about the colour balance issue (excessive brightness etc), is that resolved with one of those amps?

[Anonymous No.4145286]

>>4145247
Can't tell you from my own experience since I'm still in the process of sourcing parts to build my own amp for my mini.
Pretty sure it doesn't though if you look at the bottom here for example:
http://retrorgb.com/snes1chipdiy7314.html
The solution here isn't really the best one in my opinion though. Borti, the creator of the multiregion SCIC + UIGR board
lists a different solution here at the bottom:
https://github.com/borti4938/SNES-AddOn-PCBs/blob/master/RGB%20Bypass/1Chip_SNES_README.txt
Keep in mind though that you should be confident with lifting the pin though. Compared to lifting Pin 111 for the region this one if more of a bitch because 155 is right next to the cartridge port.
This one will not only fix the brightness but will also get rid of any ghosting artifacts so it's objectively the better fix to do.

[Anonymous No.4145301]

>>4145286
hmmm i'm not an experienced modder - I could probably handle soldering on the odd resistor, but lifting pins and such might be beyond me. If there's a less invasive way to correct the colour brightness, I'd be open to that.

Is CSync restoration difficult to do? I preemptively bought a CSync cable from retrogamingcables, but might opt to return it if it's doable

[Anonymous No.4145305]

>>4142262

Yes to both.

[Anonymous No.4145318]

>>4145301
From what I know it's either that or retrorgb's 'less optimal' solution. Never read of any other way to doing it.
If you have a steady and you should be able to pull it off with a fine needle while heating the pins pad with your soldering iron.
Otherwise you should definitely go with retrorgb's way of doing it since that one houses a lot less risk (basically none) of breaking your console.

CSync restoration seems to be a rather simple thing to pull of on 1-Chip-03s

Look at the paragraph titled '1-Chip-03' here:
http://retrorgb.com/snescsync.html

As you can see all the pads needed are already there it's just that they are not populated on that particular revision.
Apparently you can do a quickfix and simple jump the whole circuitry with a wire. I personally would want to do it the right way just because I'm a perfectionist but considering he doesn't list any major drawbacks I'd see no problem with the wire method as a temporary fix either.

[Anonymous No.4145319]

>>4145318
Thanks. Since you seem knowledgeable, I'll ask a semi-related question;
Do you think the 1chip03 offers appreciably better image quality than the 10/02 revisions, that would justify the extra modding effort and expense?
Likewise for the Jr vs 03?

[Anonymous No.4145332]

>>4145319
Even in between board revisions there are differences in output quality.
There are 1-chip-01s that have a worse output than other 1-chip-01s.
Wether that is due to age of the board/components or whatever, who knows but it can generally be fixed with a bypass amp.
Once again, retrorgb has a good page on that as well and I suggest you read through it:
http://retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html

My opinion on the whole matter is simple:
They are all able to output really nice RGB video. Some, not essentially depending on the revision, need more work than others to get the perfect output
but as you can see from the pictures on the linked site, the 1-chip-01, 1-chip-02, 1-chip-03 and Mini are pretty much all on the same level with only minor differences.
On a CRT you won't be able to make them out whatsoever and even on an LCD you'll have to get real close to see any difference.
So nope, there's really no real difference to me and I wouldn't go out of my way just to get a 03 one. Wouldn't say no to it either though because hey, it's still a 1-chip.

[Anonymous No.4145340]

>>4145332
thanks again, that's very helpful. I take it that 1chips in general look noticeably better than the old '2chips' even from the couch?

[Anonymous No.4145348]

>>4145340
At least to me there is a noticeable difference and apparently I'm not the only one, considering people will generally pay more for 1-chip consoles.
Still, I wouldn't deem older revisions as unusable either. They're nice in their own right.

[Anonymous No.4145370]

>>4145348
That's what I currently have; a PAL 2chip, which some might consider the lowest of the low, but if it looks fine from a distance (which i'll determine once my OSSC arrives) then I'll get some more mileage out of it.
I assume for a given chip revision, there's no image quality difference between PAL and NTSC, aside from the 50hz/60hz issue

[Anonymous No.4145372]

>>4145305
Well since I know they're available from at least one of those places we can narrow down the problem to you.

[Anonymous No.4145378]

>>4145370
Nah, not that I know off, at least not on the consoles side.
Maybe a really, really, really, really tiny one depending on how your TV handles NTSC/PAL but that'd be completely on the TV's side of things.

[Anonymous No.4145746]

I recently got Dance Dance Revolution Disney Dancing Museum for n64. It's a Japanese cart, and I usually play them with a game shark just fine. But I can't get this one to work, just a blank screen after the game shark screen

I cleaned the fucking shit out of the contacts, and they look great. Still no dice. Eventually I opened it up to see if there was any obvious damage and it looked fine (I'm not an electrical engineer though so dunno).

I've bought hundreds of carts and never had one that I couldn't get to work. Anything obvious that I'm missing, or did I actually get a dead cart?

[Anonymous No.4146101]

>>4145746
N64 games sometimes need a key code to be entered for them to boot. I don't have all the info but google gameshark n64 key code and you should get more info on it.

It requires plugging in a known-working game, using the code, and then swapping out the game and resetting the system. Stupid as hell, but it's what we had to deal with on N64

[Anonymous No.4146103]

>>4145746
>>4146101
Or, you could just grind down the nubs preventing JP carts from being inserted, it's up to you.

[Anonymous No.4146119]

>>4146101
Also, I goofed, don't swap things out while the system is on. I guess the GS stores the code in memory so you shut the system down, replace the cart, and then turn it back on. Sorry, I'm at work and it's been a while since I used an N64 GS

[Anonymous No.4146185]

>>4146101
>>4146103
>>4146119
Thanks. First I'd heard of any of this. I happened to have another jp cart where the back of the cart itself had been ground out to fit into a US n64 (no idea what would motivate someone to do this instead of doing it to the console). I swapped out the backs, and sure enough, the game plays fine.

Guess I'll just go ahead and get rid of the nubs. Anyway, thanks again.

[Anonymous No.4146436]

question about using the Wii for older games

I have a 7GB flash drive and I've heard that there are issues using flashdrives (or large storage SD cards for that matter) for the Wii when it comes to housing the homebrew software.

I've come across this problem before while playing LoZ: LttP using my SNES emulator on my Wii which uses a 32GB SD card.

What I'd like to do is use up some more space by slapping a PS1 emulator on there too, and then possibly using the 7GB flash drive in the back to load up some PS1 games.

I have no clue how to do this, or if it's even possible, and I was just hoping to ask before I embarked on this time consuming task to make sure I don't fall into any pitfalls as others have.

[Anonymous No.4146446]

>>4146436
I've never had an issue with the SD card. I'm using a 64GB one and ran emulators and wii games off of it fine.

For what you want to do, you'll have to see if the PS1 emulator can access the other storage directories from the game list. Just plop the games onto the flash drive and navigate to it.

[Anonymous No.4146468]

>>4146446

can I ask what kind of flash drive you are using? was trying to find one that would work well on this list:

https://wiki.gbatemp.net/wiki/USB_Devices_Compatibility_List

[Anonymous No.4146474]

>>4146468
Ah, I have had issues with USB sticks. Some won't let the wii write to them, but can be read off of.

I've been running Xenoblade Chronicles off of one of these. Not sure if it has writing issues though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041Q38QM/

[Anonymous No.4146554]

>>4146474

thanks!

[Anonymous No.4147241]

More of just an upkeep question, but I got an original gameboy for free and I'd like to carefully clean the outer shell of dirt, it's a little grimy. Do I just use water (and soap? What kind?) or maybe a bit of rubbing alcohol? Mr. Clean magic eraser? I have no idea what's safe and what isn't.

[Anonymous No.4147658]

>>4147241
Warm water and mild detergent should be fine. Completely disassemble the system until you just have the outer shell and use a toothbrush to scrub between the grooves. Rinse and dry. You can also try just using a magic eraser on the tougher spots, but a full clean should be easy enough.

[Anonymous No.4148026]

Hello all, I just bought an Amiga 1080 monitor that is having issues. As I play games, the screen will sporadically get darker and lighter. Other than that it works great. Any idea on what the issue may be?

[Anonymous No.4148040]

>>4148026
The flyback is probably on its last legs.

Hope you didn't pay meme price for it.

[Anonymous No.4148126]

>>4148040
I paid 30 bucks, not a huge deal. Guess I should just throw it in the trash?

[Anonymous No.4148212]

>>4148126
Phew.

It can probably be repaired if you feel it's worth it. Don't trash it though, offer it to somebody for spares if you're done with it.

[Anonymous No.4148248]

My original N64 will go apeshit and start resetting itself, often several times in a row.
Took it apart and cleaned it. Elevated it for better airflow. Made sure the AC adapter is secure. All to no avail.
This was the first console that I ever owned, so I would like to try and save it for sentimental reasons.
Does this issue sound like something I could fix?

[Anonymous No.4148294]

If I'm looking to make my own reproduction carts, what a good eprom burner?

[Anonymous No.4148440]

>>4148294
That one right there. Get the upgraded version with a header for connecting SOIC clips.

[Anonymous No.4148470]

>>4148294
What console are we talking about?
For some consoles you'll need adapters since you'll have to utilize chips with packages other than DIP so keep that in mind.
The programmer you pictured is actually really good for it being produced by a chinese company and it being pretty much the cheapest option you have.
It's a quite good build quality and is pretty fucking reliable. Burned PICs,PROMs,EPROMs, 16-bit EPROM, EEPROMs of varying sizes for GB, Fami/NES, SNES repros or console mods like SNES UIGR+SCIC and PS1 modchips and I never had a problem with it.
I also have a GQ-4x and though I prefer the software interface and that it supports some chips like the mx29l3211mc-10 needed for SA-1 SNES repros the Mini Pro doesn't I'd say the Mini Pro has a greater value to price ratio considering the GQ-4x is still on the cheap side but still a chunk more expensive.

Here's a review of the Mini Pro done by Dave Jones from EEVBlog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLG03f_ua5g

[Anonymous No.4148552]

>>4148294
StarFox 2s sell for a lot but you will need Stunt Race FX donor cart. I would start collecting donors now because they will be in high demand once the SNES mini is released and SF2 official rom is ripped.

[Anonymous No.4149086]

>>4148470
Thanks based anon, was looking to make a tnrom nes reproduction cart to get my feet wet. I'll take your advice and get a minipro chink box.

[Anonymous No.4149131]

>>4142252
bump

[Anonymous No.4149236]

>>4148294
>>4148470
I've been mildly interested in this kind of stuff for a while, but never had any idea where to start. This is some good info.

Now, I have a couple genesis carts that don't work, I've tried everything and the only conclusion I can come to is that the ROM chip is bad. Would it be possible for me to desolder the chips on those boards, reprogram them with this device, and fix the game? Or would I need to purchase different chips that are compatible with the chip writer? I'm probably demonstrating how little I know about this technology but that's why I ask these questions. I'd just love to fix my games or turn them into repros for other games. Would like some more info on how to make it work right.

[Anonymous No.4149250]

>>4149236
>genesis carts
Most genesis carts use use standard pinouts for the rom chips. You can just use an eprom chip instead, taking care that the cart can address the whole memory range, etc.
To know whether the rom chip is bad you could desolder and dump the chip and compare with known good dumps. Though it'd be wise to check before hand whether the chip is shorted, burnt and such obvious damage.

> Would it be possible for me to desolder the chips on those boards, reprogram them with this device, and fix the game?
That's not possible since the chips are masks roms whose data is written in silicon from the factory. You can replace the roms with eproms/eeproms, though.

[Anonymous No.4149313]

>>4147658
Thanks! Sounds good, will do this.

[Anonymous No.4149849]

>>4148248
Possible hardware failure? How's the reset swtich? How's the AC adapter itself, think you could test with another adapter? Does the power light turn on and off during the resets?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.4149881]

>>4148248
Have you tried a different AC adapter entirely? I've had a similar issue where either of my N64s would be prone to resets when using a certain power brick, and switching to a different one cleared up the issue.

[Anonymous No.4150134]

>>4149086
NES is what I consider beginners level since you'll only really have to fiddle with DIP chips. Perfect choice for the Mini Pro.
Here's some stuff that will be helpful:
http://bootgod.dyndns.org:7777/ Huge PCB database for NES and Famicom stuff. Helpful for donor choices and finding out about what parts are used for which PCB
http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=63070 FamiRom. Great tool for splitting (and padding ROMs if your chips are too large) and getting some info on the specs of hardware the rom needs.
https://wiki.nesdev.com/w/index.php/Mask_ROM_pinout Pinouts of original NES Maskroms. You'll have to do some basic rewiring to make original PCBs work with any other ROM chips. Compare them to the pinout of your chips (Datasheet).
http://nesdev.com/NES%20EPROM%20Conversions.txt Premade list on how to rewire certain boards to work with other PROMs. Also lists how to convert TKROM to TNROM since TNROM NES PCBs do not officially exist (Only Fami)
http://www.infiniteneslives.com/ Repro boards for NES. Sadly they do no longer sell boards that can fit ROM chips but only ones with presoldered flash chips which need to be flashed with their flasher. There's no fun in that in my opinion but eh.
http://retrostage.net/index.php/product/nes-mmc3-txrom/ Another site offering repro boards. They're much smaller though, seem to have pretty limited supply and do not support that many mappers for NES. Never tested their NES ones but their SNES boards are pretty neat.

[Anonymous No.4151102]

>>4148440
Says the kid who never used one. lrn2devicelist

[Anonymous No.4151835]

Holy shit how did you people learn all this stuff? I want to hack on hardware too

[Anonymous No.4151868]

>>4151835
I haven't done any of this, I cant solder for shit. But watch this guy's series if it's still available https://youtu.be/3-Bbp5Z48_0

[Anonymous No.4152475]

I've got a Sega Genesis Model 1. Whenever I turn it on, the picture loads just fine but the sound outputs a terribly loud buzzing noise. Plugging headphones in the front doesn't solve it so I figure it must be internal. How do I fix this?

[Anonymous No.4152495]

>>4152475
Open it up and post some high res photos.
Suspect number one as always are the caps. Specifically the ones in the audio circuitry.
See if there's any leaking, bulging caps as a first step.
https://console5.com/wiki/Genesis Here are schematics, and a cap list so you know where to look.

[Anonymous No.4152530]

My benn venn ags 10 GBC ribbon came in the mail but I'm at work reeeee.

Will post pics when it's all done

[Anonymous No.4153087]

>>4152530
Didn't have the time to take a pic.

Works fine for normal carts but I'm getting scanlines with my everdrive

[Anonymous No.4153663]

>>4152475
If you wanna pay a few bucks for a fairly surefire fix, I would say just replace all the caps in the system using one of these kits.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Genesis-I-Capacitor-Replacement-Kit-Fix-no-low-sound-no-power-dim-screen-/181166353987?hash=item2a2e5b2e43:g:3egAAOxyhodRzQh6

If you want to be more frugal though, you could try to just identify the audio capacitors and only replace those.

[Anonymous No.4153746]

>>4100687
What's that box? A GB to TV display like what they had as kiosks?
Also, how hard is it to make a SNES to GC controller?

[Anonymous No.4154416]

Anyone know what could cause a Sega CD to crash randomly?
I'm using a Model 1 Gen Model 2 Sega CD and a 32X setup. The Genesis and (I assume) 32X work perfectly, but when I tried playing 2 Sega CD games I had BIOS boot up problems and random black screen crashes

[Anonymous No.4154453]

>>4154416
Faulty power adapter maybe? Is it OEM or third party?

[Anonymous No.4155326]

>>4153746
Pretty much. It outputs RGB to the PVM
Raphnet makes pretty much the best adapters you can get.
Luckily he has the source files for quite a lot of his projects up
http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/x2wii/index_en.php
Building one yourself is probably not for everyone though.
Need to get the PCB made (though i guess you could also hack something together), program the atmega, populate the PCB and wire it up.
Might be easier to just buy it from him.

[Anonymous No.4155529]

I have a Sega CD Model 2 and I have to keep re-initializing the memory clearing it every time I want to save a game only to have it do it again later.
Would using an Everdrive have something to do with it?

[Anonymous No.4155553]

>>4155529
No. The battery inside your Sega CD 2 is dead and the SRAM chip inside keeps getting wiped because of that.

[Anonymous No.4155603]

>>4155553
Makes sense. Looking up videos you need to be able to solder to change it so will probably just leave as it.
Can just transfer most saves to ram cart.

[Anonymous No.4155654]

I have no experience with modding. I want to put an ags 101 screen into my gameboy advance agb-001. Would it be too difficult for a beginner? Should I just save up 120 dollars and buy one already made from ebay?

I bought this stupid thing because I wanted to play gameboy advance games. I didn't know how terrible the screen would be with no backlight.

[Anonymous No.4155661]

>>4155654
If all you want is to play GBA games on a handheld, spend the 25 bucks on a DS-lite and be fucking done with it.

The only reason to have a GBA, is to play GB/C games portable.

Get a gameboy player if you're playing at home.

[Anonymous No.4155667]

>>4155654
All you really need to do is source the parts (Ribbon adapter and the screen. Make sure you get the correct adapter for your gba model), cut the front case of the gba to fit the ags screen and you'll have to solder a single wire from the adapter ribbon to the gba board,
It really depends on how much of a retard you are with your hands but It's pretty basic for someone that is not a complete fool.

[Anonymous No.4155680]

>>4155603
Eh, any idiot with a soldering iron can do it to be honest.
Just get some pliers, heat up the first tab of the battery on the bottom of the board and pull the tab out with the pliers. Do the same with the other and get the same kind of tabbed battery from ebay. Will cost you next to nothing.
Solder it in and done.

[Anonymous No.4155874]

Is it true that greasing a N64 analog stick makes it last a lifetime?
Mine are currently loose, but I don't want to bother repairing/replacing them with something that will go loose again in a short period of time

[Anonymous No.4156003]

Any reason why a near mint copy of parasite eve would choke up and freeze with a ps one? Furthest I have been able to go is when you go down a hole (but it's frozen before then, opera cutscene always chugs or hangs before it), second I walk down the hallway and enter a new screen it freezes. I have a beat to fuck spyro 3 that works fine, not far at all into FF7 but that works fine.

[Anonymous No.4156049]

>>4155874
I've had really good success with my greased N64 sticks, but I haven't had them a lifetime. I greased mine about 4 years ago and I have not noticed any additional wear in that time. Two of the controllers were essentially new when I greased them and they still feel completely unworn, so I would definitely recommend it.

I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-48232-Tube-Soft-Serve-Lubricant/dp/B009T8PZR2

[Anonymous No.4156085]

>>4156003
Usually it's because either:

a: the laser lens might have dust on it, just get a q tip with windex on it and very lightly rub the lens.

b: the tracks that the laser assembly slides on needs greasing, get a q tip with wd40 on it and grease the tracks.

c: the tracks are slightly warped due to heat, play the console upside down and the heat may eventually warp them back straightish again.

If none of these fix the problem, I dunno, all my PS1s are all the big dark grey 7501 models. I don't have much experience with the PS1 slim.

[Anonymous No.4156086]

>>4156049
is there a way to undo the wear and tear on my current loose sticks, or do I need to buy new ones?

[Anonymous No.4156472]

>>4155874
>>4156086

There's really no good way to undo the wear on those sticks, since it's the plastic itself that get ground up during the usage. You'll need to replace the sticks if they're too loose, and put tiny amount of lubricant there(I'd personally apply silicon grease, don't know anything specifically about the stuff >>4156049 linked)

[Anonymous No.4156878]

>>4156086
Buy these 2 component plastic filling glue things used to repair small damage on cars. I repaired all of my stick with that, lubed them up, like new.

[Anonymous No.4157143]

>>4152495
>>4153663
Update: The picture I originally attached wasn't mine. The one I have belongs to my flatmate, and his was much dustier than the one pictured, both inside and out. I just opened it up and gave it a thorough cleaning. The caps look fine and everything was in its right place.

Now the console won't even turn on! I don't see how removing decades of dust could possibly brick a Model 1, but I've been wrong before. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

[Anonymous No.4157185]

Whats the best way to clean this, alcohol? Is it even fixable? Never had a game this dirty.

[Anonymous No.4157371]

>>4157185
You can try, but you're going to want to open the cartridge completely to inspect the board. If the rust is limited to the inner case and small bits on the pins you may be alright, but you're going to want to scrub off as much rust as you can without damaging the pins. Fine sandpaper helps. If rust has penetrated through to the chips/traces on the board you may be fucked.

[Anonymous No.4157403]

>>4157371
thanks anon. Unfortunately i dont have the tool to open up the cartridges. If i manage to clean it up a bit with a qtip + alcohol, there wouldnt be any harm in putting it in my n64? The pins themselves look clean, its only the sides that have rust. I just bought the game at the flea market and havent tested it yet, only noticed the rust when i got home

[Anonymous No.4158236]

How simple is changing GBA (original) housing? Is the screen stuck to the top part or does it all come apart easily? My GBA I got in the mail Is so ugly I want to put an aftermarket housing on it. It has as good screen, I want to keep it. Whoever made this decided to take the worst condition GBA and put the best screen in it.. It's a glacier model and it's yellowed to hell.

Lilke, if i replace the housing do I have to do any gluing or anything with the screen?

[Anonymous No.4158581]

Opened up my Sega genesis model 2 up because it would not stay on. tried to clean the power button with rubbing alchol, but it broke off. is there a way to fix this?

[Anonymous No.4158910]

Asking again because this is somewhat urgent. I may have bricked my flatmate's Genesis Model I after I gave it a thorough dusting, inside and out. Before cleaning, I was trying to fix a loud buzzing noise that sounded when the console was on. After cleaning, the console won't turn on at all. What should I do?

[Anonymous No.4158956]

>>4156085
Using petroleum-based water-displacement fluid on plastic parts in place of appropriate lubricant is a REALLY bad idea.

Silicone grease please.

[Anonymous No.4158964]

>>4157403
If the rust has short-circuited internal connections you could be in for a world of pain.

Do not plug it in until you're 100% sure this isn't the case.

[Anonymous No.4158971]

>>4158581
Yes, soldering.

You may as well resolder the power connector whilst you're at it. Dollars to doughnuts this is where the issue lies.

[Anonymous No.4159085]

>>4158236
The caseswap is easy - just take triwing, unscrew all screws(there's one philips screw under the battery compartment) and disconnect the display. The display is glued to the front case, so you might want to pry the display off with old credit card, guitar pick or plastic spudger - it's generally speaking easy but sometimes the glue can be sticky as hell. So don't rush it and you should be allright - you should be fine with using the old adhesive in the screen.

[Anonymous No.4159192]

Well, my SNES mini is now completely finished.
After installing borti's region free PCB I've opted for a THS7374 as an external RGB amp, installed a 470µF cap on the 7805.
I also lifted pin 155 of the C-PUN and connected it back to VCC through a 20 Ohm resistor to fix the overly bright output (+ghosting and ringing) that 1-chip consoles normally tend to have.
Since there was someone interested in the output quality of different SNES consoles here's a small capture I did of it. Please excuse the audio getting out of sync at some point. Youtube's processing fucked it up once again...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z-xLdVAKODI

[Anonymous No.4159394]

>>4159085
Alright thanks.

[Anonymous No.4160103]

Did you try a new belt entirely? I know you said it appeared to have had it's belt replaced but maybe that belt was just about on it's way out, or a bum belt. I've done dozens of belt replacements & I'd day out of every 5 belts I order 1 is bad.

[Anonymous No.4160106]

>>4083915
Did you try a new belt entirely? I know you said it appeared to have had it's belt replaced but maybe that belt was just about on it's way out, or a bum belt. I've done dozens of belt replacements & I'd day out of every 5 belts I order 1 is bad.

[Anonymous No.4160136]

>>4113956
If you are experiencing this issue with multiple games than it is most likely the PPU or V-RAM, especially if it's always the same glitches every time you pop the cart in & out & clean it. For example if the same platforms are always missing. If it was dirt or corrosion than you would experience different issues every time you pop the cart in & out.
Like anon said there really is no cheap & easy way to fix it. Unless it is a bad trace & you can just jump it but 9 times out of 10 these issues are dead PPU or V-RAM & finding a "parts" SNES with a good PPU or VRAM that isn't easier to fix ain't easy

[Anonymous No.4160164]

Can Help explain to me why my LOZ: OOT cart will no longer save after replacing the battery? I've had the cart sent off twice to try and get it fixed and the damn issue keeps happening, it will not save the damn game.

[Anonymous No.4160167]

>>4124767
Most likely the laser is dead. First thing the system does is the laser check to see if a disc is present if it sees one than it starts spinning it so it can read it. If the laser is dead it can't see the disc & the system doesn't even bother spinning the disc. Either it was on it's way out when it was put into storage or the conditions in your loft killed it (too hot, too cold, moisture, ect)
The lasers themselves are not terribly expensive nor are they too difficult to replace. I'm not saying it's easy but it's also one of those repairs where there's little to no risk of further damaging the unit or death if your careful.
Now if your not willing to do it yourself & you don't have a buddy who can in exchange for a beer than it isn't worth getting fixed. You can get a PS1 for $20-30, hell you probably have all the cables so you can get a stand alone unit for $5-10 if your lucky. If you have to resort to having it repaired at a shop or by a repair guy online their probably going to charge you $30 or more.

[Anonymous No.4160181]

>>4124884
>>4124975
I agree with anon. While the Game Gear isn't hard to fix it shouldn't be the first system you solder on. To cramped of a space & there's a good risk of ripping out solder pads. You want to start with something simple like a Genesis or 2600 with cracked solder on the AC Port or better yet replacing the speaker in a Game Boy Color with a dead speaker.

[Anonymous No.4160195]

>>4130805
What's wrong? You hit it & it works, that's how CRTs work. Once & awhile you gotta smack them around.
>>4130979
Anon's probably right though. Most likely a loose connection or cracked solder somewhere. Either located at the neck board or one of the connections that handles color.

[Anonymous No.4160232]

>>4138709
I was just about to chime in saying you have a bad jack when I saw this. I've been dealing with Hyperkin directly for years. When their good their good, but their still bad a lot. That being said, contact them about getting the bad part & get a new one from them. Give them hell because I actually just had a talk with them about a month ago regarding this part. I told them None of the ones I ordered would work & I was forced to use donor ones. Their responce was "Oh yes we are aware the first run of them was a bad batch." They knew this & didn't tell any one, recall them, or anything. I know they have good ones now because I have them. After I knew they were good I ordered 25 of them, haven't had a bad one since.

[Anonymous No.4160248]

>>4139928
You gotta replace it if it's "fucked"
These day's their are a ton of options:
>You can get a cheap but functional one that looks identical but might not have the same "feel" to it.
>There's the GameCube style one if you one those people...
>Then there's the crazy options that tend to be pricey like the people who have gone through leaps & bounds to create something identical to the original controllers. Hell One guy has even made one with a metal stick & bowl that will last a life time.

[Anonymous No.4160254]

>>4140058
Ya shoulda bought one of those digital ones at Radio Shack while they were on clearance. They ain't the best out there but their functional & I think you were able to get them as cheap as $20.

[Anonymous No.4160262]

>>4141475
Mouser is the best, but for the AV mod use console 5. They will sell you a kit that only costs a but more than the parts cost individually: https://console5.com/store/nes-toploader-nes-101-a-v-mod-kit.html

[Anonymous No.4160290]

>>4148248
>>4149881
Yea try a different AC adapter. If it does it after being on for awhile & you've already cleaned it up inside & made sure the heat sync in place properly than it's most likely the AC adapter. Almost everything that handles powers is contained in that brick on the N64.
Most likely isn't the on-off switch or reset button if it only does it after being on for awhile.

[Anonymous No.4160293]

>>4152475
Problem is your using a Genesis, get a Super Nintendo.

[Anonymous No.4160305]

>>4155874
Greasing a N64 stick will make it last longer. A lifetime though depends on the use. Even a greased part wears down, especially a plastic one.
But if yours is loose you have to replace it, grease won't fix that. Some people are messing with replacement parts to refurb the sticks but it really is easier to replace the whole stick. There's a bunch of options these days. Someone out there has made one with metal parts.

[Anonymous No.4160340]

>>4157185
Remove the rust. Since it;s on the grounding plate you can do it with anything with no threat of damage, so long as you open it up. N64 consoles sometimes won't boot a cart if the ground plate isn't making a connection, as silly as that sounds. Plus that rust will flake off into the system pin connector & you don't want that.
Clean the pins too with alcohol real quick just to be safe, then test it. If it still doesn't work you can use what ever method you prefer to clean the connectors, vigorous rubbing alcohol scrubbing, pencil eraser, sand paper, fiberglass pen, or brass polish like Brasso. All these methods work to clean corrosion off a connectors & each one has just as many people yelling at you that any one of these methods is shortening the life of your cartridge albeit using a corrosive chemical to remove oxidation or applying extensive friction to a PCB with rubber.
Now if it still doesn't work then you have to start looking for a broken trace. usually right where that black plastic guard is corrostion will eat away at the trace & you'll have to make a jump of some kind by soldering wires or buss bar to make the connection.
If that still doesn't work than you either missed a broken trace somewhere else on the board or possibly the chips are just dead & you wasted a bunch of time, but at least you tried.
& remember to at least try, don't listen to the people telling you you'll make it worse. It's broken, it can't get worse.

[Anonymous No.4160346]

>>4160164
Could be a broken trace from the battery to the rest of the cart. I've seen it before with other games. Doesn't matter if the battery is working or not if it isn't making the circuit.

[Anonymous No.4160538]

I need to replace the laser in my PS2. It's what I use to play PS1 games. It's a (made in Japan) SCPH-39001. Where can I get an OEM laser? What laser does it need exactly?

[Anonymous No.4161217]

>>4160538
Well, if it isn't functional anymore, open the system up and pull out the laser assembly. It'll have a sticker probably on the bottom that indicates the model. Search that model on eBay