CRT Thread: Nights on a white Saturn Edition

[Anonymous No.2508102]

Previous thread - >>2484040

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

These past few threads have been great, keep it up!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright!
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

[Anonymous No.2508107]

Last one was slipping and I need answers!

I've setup my PVM-2042QM in tate with my Saturn through rgbs. Problem is I can't get sound through the rgb mode only through composite and s-video. The way I have it setup the audio cables also carry the neg so if I don't have them plugged in, even if I can't hear the sound, the screen is really dark. What can I do?

[Anonymous No.2508124]

>>2508102
>Nights on a white Saturn
If I had a fedora, I'd tip it, good pun.

[Anonymous No.2508150]

>>2508102
Just checked out the survey results.
Pretty surprised to see how many of you are using RGB, and how close composite is to component/s-video.

RGB just seems like a huge hassle considering all the consoles I have. I'd probably invest if I had a portable CRT (swapping around would be too much effort if I wanted to take it to a friends place) and a console set up to emulate all the old consoles really well

[Anonymous No.2508275]

>>2508150
>swapping around would be too much effort
Swapping what around? Most of the time you can mod to get simultaneous outputs...?

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2508331]

Cleaning out this old office told to trash everything. Should I save this Dell M990?

[Anonymous No.2508356]

>>2508331
>1600x1200
sound good, but is that a trinitron tube?

[Anonymous No.2508362]

>try playing games on old crt tv after years of lcd
>annoying high pitch sounds you barely hear but notice
>eyes start hurting

is there crt televisions that don't have that high pitch buzz thing?

[Anonymous No.2508364]

>>2508331
>96 kHz
>0.26mm
...meh.

[Anonymous No.2508375]

>>2508331
depends, it might not work, and then you've got a 2-4 stone dead weight to get shut of

plug it in, if it it clicks and degausses i would keep it
it might have a colour bar that comes on no idea

i'm still using a sun microsystems 21inch, it needs repairing (i'e it has a pincushion effect) but i love it, far sharper picture imo than an lcd

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2508385]

>>2508356
>>2508364
>>2508375
I'm looking at it right now and it looks like a shadow mask. I have a huge Intergraph at home. Luckily I can just take this to my desk across the building and hook it up to my computer instead of having to take it home first. I don't think I'll replace my Intergraph at home with this but I'll definitely use it to replace the garbage 17" Dell I've been using at work.
My old work monitor would recommend 1024x768 and anything over that would start to blur. If I tried 1600x1200 on the old one I could only use 60Hz which killed my eyes plus the blur was terrible. This one is bigger and recommends 1280x1024 but I'm running it at 1600x1200 @ 75Hz right now without noticeable blur. Some convergence issues in the corners but still the higher resolution and bigger size gives me more room to work with than my old garbage work monitor.

My Intergraph at home looks great running at 1600x1200 @ 100Hz. So I don't think that will get replaced anytime soon.

[Anonymous No.2508390]

>>2508102
I have a Sony Bravia KLV-XXXX, I literally cannot find this online. It's a crt lcd. 32", 4 component, 1 hdmi, 1 vga, 1 composite, 1 RGB(the actual red green and blue wire). And above component there is s-video.

Altogether 6 video inputs. Apparently this thing was 2000$ when it came out.

Anybody know anything about it. It came out around the time making the conversion from crt to lcd, and sony made an inbetween product.

[Anonymous No.2508408]

>>2508390
>crt lcd
Literally a what?

[Anonymous No.2508417]

Gave my geometry a quick bash using Artemio's 240p test suite. How did I do?

Also worked out that the absent sound was due to a menu setting, so that is working too.

Not bad for £20! PVM-20M4E if anyone cares.

[Anonymous No.2508423]

>>2508408
It's a tube but apparently it 'was' supposed to be a step up from crt but a step below lcd

[Anonymous No.2508436]

>>2508423
It was only for sale for six months, and it looks too sharp to be LCD. There's no screen tearing, and the wide screen looks like a really good upscaler went through it.

Only thing I've found about this is that someone is selling a single broken one on ebay.

[Anonymous No.2508441]

>>2508417
Let's see the grid.

[Anonymous No.2508450]

>>2508441
It's not perfect, but it is much better than it was. Will probably give it some more time at the weekend.

[Anonymous No.2508509]

>>2508450
I heard somewhere that you're not supposed to fully see the red stuff?

[Anonymous No.2508537]

>>2508509
it's ok to not have it displayed, it's the overscan zone and most developers take it in account by not showing important info in it.
But the full image is with the red zone.

[Anonymous No.2508569]

>>2508537
Huh, that's some nice info.

[Anonymous No.2508574]

>>2508390
Are you sure it's not some kind of projection LCD? I have never heard of this in my life.

[Anonymous No.2508578]

>>2508362
Some might be better than others but no... Sorry.

[Anonymous No.2508579]

>>2508574
Hell... Could it be a DLP?

[Anonymous No.2508604]

>>2508578
Would a 100hz PAL TV not run at 2x horizontal frequency? In that case the flyback noise would be 31khz which is inaudible.

[Anonymous No.2508632]

>>2508604
Aren't 100Hz PAL TVs terrible for /vr/?

[Anonymous No.2508668]

>>2508579
DLP?
It may be a projection LCD but I think it's way too sharp

[Anonymous No.2508676]

>>2508668
Come back, looked up the serial on sony website. It's a Projection LCD, but hell this thing looks like a widescreen pvm without scan lines.

[Anonymous No.2508682]

>>2508676
>come back
man I must be tired as fuck or something. Ignore that.

[Anonymous No.2508725]

HELP ME

Some guy's selling a 30" Trinitron
Sony FD Trinitron Wega KV-30HS420
1080i
Here's a manual google brought up, which mentions HDMI and 720p
https://docs.sony.com/release/KV36HS420rev.pdf

If I feed this thing a 480p signal through component, will it lag?

[Anonymous No.2508727]

>>2508725
pic related

[Anonymous No.2508732]

>>2508727
>>2508725
Not retro.

Probably will though.

[Anonymous No.2508740]

>>2508732
wait does the TV need to be retro?

Also how do we know which crts lag at which resolution inputs and outputs, and which don't

[Anonymous No.2508746]

>>2508740

>Also how do we know which crts lag at which resolution inputs and outputs, and which don't
You don't. Rule of thumb is if there's some kind of post processing or interlacing involved then there's gonna be some lag.

I already think that using a flatscreen CRT from the 2000s kills the point. Using one that's 16:9, 1080i, and hdmi even more so.

[Anonymous No.2508752]

>>2508725
>>2508740
You'll probably be fine if all you plan is feeding it 480p. I have its much sharper cousin, the 30XS955, and I get no noticeable lag with 480p or 1080i content on it, though I made sure to disable as much post-processing shit as possible anyway.

[Anonymous No.2508764]

>>2508632
No idea, I generally only use pc monitors. Was thinking of getting a 100hz tv screen for the amiga though, since the stock monitor has the same painful 15khz whine and flickers like crazy.

[Anonymous No.2508765]

>>2508417
Looks really good

[Anonymous No.2508814]

I am planning to mod my SMES to output component video. I opened up my SNES recently and it turns out I have the BA6592F encoder. According to a comment made by the author of this video, if I use a 10v 220uF cap for the Pb and Pr lines as opposed to a 25v or 20-30v cap, then I don't need a resistor:

https://youtu.be/ndMbKcH_6ak

Can anyone confirm if this is true?

[Anonymous No.2508829]

>>2508814
As if that guy would know what exactly he is dealing with.
Best idea would be to add amps these, instead of wiring almost directly to the TV.
>if I use a 10v 220uF cap for the Pb and Pr lines as opposed to a 25v or 20-30v cap, then I don't need a resistor
This doesn't make any sense. The voltage rating of the capacitor defines the maximum allowable voltage applied at it's pins.
And with the video encoder running at 5V, you can go as low as 6.3V.
Just use a resistor and remove it if the saturation is too weak compared to other component sources.

[Anonymous No.2508836]

>>2508829
I did find pic related for the S-ENC chip, so I'm not entirely sure what to do

[Anonymous No.2508849]

>>2508836
>I'm not entirely sure what to do
Explain yourself.

[Anonymous No.2509330]

>>2508676
>>2508682
Pics pls :)

[Anonymous No.2509345]

he already posted >2509330
and btw that has artifacts

[Anonymous No.2509446]

Just plugged my Sony trinitron kv-13FS110 in after a move and it looks like this. Shows up with no additional cables in (thought it was a game till I pulled the A/V cable out).

Any clue if I can do something about it or do I have a 15lb pile of junk now?

[Anonymous No.2509480]

>>2509446
degauss button? leave it for 30 mins after you turn it on to see if it settles

[Anonymous No.2509526]

>>2509446
Your source/console works on another (presumably 15kHz-friendly) screen just fine?

[Anonymous No.2509617]

>>2509526

ya I just tested on my main hdtv. I popped SMB to compare and on the CRT the colors are really washed out and the lines are still shown as they are without the console plugged in.

So I'm pretty sure at this point it's not any console but the TV itself that's having the issue.

[Anonymous No.2509623]

>>2509617

[Anonymous No.2509632]

>>2508124
You got a problem with the moody blues son

[Anonymous No.2509646]

>>2509623
Just to rule stuff out...

Have you tried other inputs for the TV? Both different input types, and different lines?

If your main HDTV is LCD, those can have different filters that deal with a noisy signal more easily, were the CRT shows crap. Same for later CRT's i think. See if you can plug something else in to the Sony, like an old DVD player.

And as the other anon said, wait a few days with it off so the magnetics can settle. Then try all this again.

If none of this works, we need an anon with more knowledge to help out. Might be something in the blue gun/line, but i'd hesitate to guess at what.

[Anonymous No.2509651]

>>2509646

With nothing plugged into the inputs all three video sources look like >>2509446

If I plug a console in it looks like >>2509623
and when I plugged the same console into my HDTV's AV1 it looks fine (for an HDTV playing SMB) and didn't have lines.

The screen also fades and flickers. The text will sometimes come in perfectly clear then ends up garbled as in >>2509446 but it will some times fade in and out in terms of clarity.

I've tried seeing if it would let me adjust bright/color/pic/etc but nothing comes anywhere near to what it should look like regardless of how I set it.

At this point I'm just going to assume the movers fucking dropped it or something and the poor little guy is hosed.

But I did find a service manual pdf for it but wasn't of much help at this point.

[Anonymous No.2509659]

>>2509651
>If I plug a console in
A console, or more than one? If only one, it could still be the console. LCD's use different filters, as do higher scan CRTs. If more than one console is doing the same thing, it'll be the TV

[Anonymous No.2509664]

>>2508362
Nope. It shouldn't be so bad that you can hear it over your game's sound though. I've never had a CRT that was loud enough that I noticed the while over a game.

[Anonymous No.2509665]

>>2508362
You're eyes get used to it, play some music

[Anonymous No.2509673]

>>2508725
I had the 32" 4:3 model of that TV years ago, and it had a great picture. Just be aware that larger CRTs tend to have larger geometry distortions and tend not to look as good as smaller ones. I actually just ditched a 32" Trinitron for that reason. The sweet spot for me is between 24 and 27 inches, but YMMV based on how much tolerance you have for that sort of thing.

[Anonymous No.2509676]

>>2509330
see
>>2508423

[Anonymous No.2509684]

>>2509673 here
BTW, if anyone's in the central Ohio area and wants this Trinitron, you can have it. It's a Sony KV-32FS200. There's some horizontal and vertical bowing in it that I couldn't fix in the service menu; it needs someone to crack it open and either adjust the yoke or replace the voltage regulator to make it perfect again. I was going to do it, but I found a 20" PVM so I'm using that instead.

[Anonymous No.2509686]

>>2508849
The pic I posted is a mod for the S-ENC chip. I have the BA6592F chip. I'm not sure how the chips are different exactly in terms of how they output the Y, Pb, and Pr signals (they have the same pin out), but I heard the S-ENC is the best chip to use for doing this mod. Most of the info and advice I got on this mod (using caps and resistors, etc).

I might just get two 220uF caps (voltage doesn't matter as long as it's over 5V like you said, so I might get the 25V ones since they seem to be the most common and readily available) and various pairs of different value 1/2 Watt resistors (maybe 20-75 ohm ones will work).

I'm not sure about how to install these parts (having the caps and resistors float above the SNES PCB like in most vids vs. getting a PCB, soldering the caps, resistors, and wires on to it, and putting it somewhere else in the SNES.

The part I don't know how to do at all is installing the RCA jacks. Not only that, but I'm not sure how this mod will work with the top of the SNES back on (most videos of this mod show the SNES with the top cover off). There's also the big metal shield above the BA6592F chip that I'm concerned about because I don't want anything connected to it (except maybe ground).

All in all, it seems like a scary project, but I'm interested enough to try it out anyway. So if you know how (and where exactly) to install the RCA jacks (I'm assuming they should be chassis mount type jacks) and what to do with that metal shield (remove it or keep it and if I can connect it to ground), then I would have much more confidence going into this. I would also like to know what type (stranded or solid) and gauge of wire I should use. Thanks!

[Anonymous No.2509694]

>>2509659
Tired it with the snes. Fine on the hdtv and the lines still show.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2509710]

>>2509694
Yeah, it definitely looks like it took a nice thump somewhere along the way.

You'd need to crack it open to see what's come loose or otherwise, but it'd probably be easier/cheaper to just find a new CRT to be honest.

Shame, those tiny FD Trinitrons are adorable.

[Anonymous No.2509713]

>>2509659

and again it looks like >>2509446 with nothing plugged into it. when I plug it in those lines are still there as in >>2509694.

I've done some searching and found some similar issues where people said it screen volts (G2) were to high. I did get into service diagnostic and it listed all my values for G2 (per the manual) as "initial data" which I assume is the factory setting.

[Anonymous No.2509716]

>>2509710

Ya, it was my mistake for entrusting it to my movers when I could have easily taken it in my car. I only paid $20 for it but it took me months to find it locally.

[Anonymous No.2509782]

>>2509686
The metal cover is an RF shield, to prevent any stray EM from influencing things it shouldn't. Most of the time you can remove it without hassle, but cutting holes in it is fine too. It will already be connected to ground. Do not connect it to anything, or connect anything to it, unless you want to connect whatever that is to ground.

Without an actual physical connection, consoles don't produce high enough voltages for potentials to jump even .1mm gaps - just stay away from the main power supply.

Wire from 22AWG to 26AWG will do fine, it's more about how much insulation and whether you want stranded or solid core. I like soft, flexible stuff for some applications, and stiff stuff for others.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2510135]

>>2509686
>The pic I posted is a mod for the S-ENC chip. I have the BA6592F chip.
~15 minutes of fiddling around.
My S-ENC B BA6594AF gives a reasonable image pulling directly from the chip, nothing between it and the CRT;

I believe I may have just fried everything though thanks to careless placement of the power switch.

Manage to grab a few photos before doing so though. This is with the chroma knob turned nearly all the way up and the brightness lowered slightly. Otherwise it comes out washed out. Apparently pulling from the Multi AV fixes this.

[Anonymous No.2510245]

So, I have a CRT monitor that I managed to get into 3840*480.

What emulators on Windows will work best for this purpose? What extra setup should I do for best results?

[Anonymous No.2510259]

>>2510245
Never mind, got it working.

Picture(s) incoming. I'm so happy to finally have this shit working.

[Anonymous No.2510670]

>>2510259
Here's one with the light in the room on. You might recognise this monitor from not too long ago: I posted about trying to get 240p out of it, and also how to fix up scratches on it's glass.

Turns out the solution to the first problem is to not use Intel integrated graphics. Not sure if I'll ever fix the second problem.

Also, should convergence be something I should only have to set once? It's fine in 240p, but when on the desktop (1600x1200) it seems to require adjustment after the CRT has been turned off or in power-saving for a while.

[Anonymous No.2510887]

Look what I just found at a thrift store. It's a US KD-27FS170 for $20. Should I go for it? I heard there were geometry issues with these WEGA TVs, but it seems tempting.

[Anonymous No.2510897]

>>2510670
I wonder if that scratch fill in shit for eye glasses would work for 2.

[Anonymous No.2510907]

And here's a widescreen WEGA in the same store. I wish I knew the model number or if it works fine, but it's so damn heavy I can't pull it out without fear of breaking it. I'm probably not gonna bother with this. The previous one I posted says SDTV on it, so that one likely doesn't support 480p. Thks widescreen one might, though.

[Anonymous No.2510925]

>>2509446
>>2509623

I believe those are called retrace lines.

[Anonymous No.2510957]

>>2510670
i think sony monitors store a hi and lo res convergence setting, according to the old sony service program 'WINDAS'.
internally they make 9 convergence adjustments PER LINE, so theres no way a mere human can ever hope to get it exactly right

[Anonymous No.2510987]

>>2509446
>Just plugged my Sony trinitron kv-13FS110 in after a move and it looks like this
You never had any kind of problem before moving?
>Any clue if I can do something about it
Open up and check for damage, especially the neckboard and if it's properly connected to the cathode and chassis (via cables).
>or do I have a 15lb pile of junk now?
Very unlikely, this doesn't look hard to fix.

>>2510670
The Convergence settings are a matter of position.
In the direction the screen faces because of earth magnet field and other weak magnetic fields.
Simply set it if the tube is warmed up (around 10 minutes) and you don't have to do this again unless you move it to somewhere else.

[Anonymous No.2511004]

>>2510907
I just found out the model number for this: KV-30HS420. It's $35 and works fine.

I feel like spending the extra $15 dollars on this one instead of the previous one. Consoles hooked up to it in S-Video or component shouldn't have a problem, right? And can the PS2 play DVDs in progressive scan mode?

[Anonymous No.2511094]

hey never posted here before

i got a nice tv i want to try hooking up to my pc for emulation (cl32s40 sharp)

whats the best way to go about it? get a discrete video card, or a signal converter, or one of those usb external gpus

have a 570 sli with either dvid or hdmi out, tv can take coaxial/s video/composite

i have a wqhd s-ips panel for my main display, this would just be for 4:3 games

[Anonymous No.2511798]

>>2511004
Welp, it turns out that I couldn't fit either Sony TV in my car, so I had to settle for some 20 in. Sanyo.

>mfw

At least it has S-Video and component inputs, and it was only $10. I'm not even sure if that widescreen Sony would fit on my stand (the Sony kv-30hs420 is 22.2 in. deep while my stand is only 16 in.)

[Anonymous No.2511814]

>>2510887
>>2510907
what kind of stores do you find these?

[Anonymous No.2511932]

>>2511798
Go back and get one of the Trinis.

The 27FS170 won't do 480p, but it will do 240p and 480i, and would be the better television for retro.

The 30HS420 will do 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. The PS2 can do all those resolutions for DVDs, provided you have component cables. Games that output in 240p will be laggy on this television. According to the Amazon page, it uses DRC to upscale 480i sources to either 960i or 480p, and that it "upsamples" 720p sources to 1080i. I'm not familiar with this tech, but I think this would introduce lag unless it can be turned off.

[Anonymous No.2511949]

>>2511932
>The PS2 can do all those resolutions for DVDs, provided you have component cables.
I'm not sure all models are capable of this, and even then I thought it could just do just progressive scan, not upscaling?
I do know some PS2 games support higher resolutions though. Pretty sure Gran Turismo 4 goes all the way up to 1080i.

[Anonymous No.2511953]

>CRT monitor goes as high as 1280x1024@60Hz
>5:4
>forwhatpurpose.jpg
>wait a sec
>do basic algebra, 4:3 version would be 1366x1024
>CRU that shit
>mfw it's now a usable resolution

[Anonymous No.2512085]

>>2511932
>Go back and get one of the Trinis.

Again, neither of them will fit in my car (2008 Taurus). The worst part is, my car is bigger than my mom out dad's. I know a neighbor with a minivan, though.

And I don't want to put my dad through all of this shit again (carrying TVs around, etc).

>The 27FS170 won't do 480p, but it will do 240p and 480i, and would be the better television for retro.
>The 30HS420 will do 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i. The PS2 can do all those resolutions for DVDs, provided you have component cables. Games that output in 240p will be laggy on this television. According to the Amazon page, it uses DRC to upscale 480i sources to either 960i or 480p, and that it "upsamples" 720p sources to 1080i. I'm not familiar with this tech, but I think this would introduce lag unless it can be turned off.

According to the manual, DRC can be set to interlaced ("Recommended for moving pictures."), progressive ("Recommended for still images and text."), or CineMotion ("Provides an optimized display by automatically detecting [24 fps] film content and applying a reverse 3-2 pulldown process. Moving pictures will appear clearer and more natural-looking."). Looks like you can't turn it off.

[Anonymous No.2512323]

>>2511953

>hating on 1280*1024

Congrat, you've wasted your time to get 186 more pixels horizontally for the sake of muh square pixels.

[Anonymous No.2512342]

>>2512323
5/4 AR on 4/3 display is retarted.

[Anonymous No.2512356]

>>2510897
I'd hope so, there's a pretty long (about one inch) scratch on the bottom-right (you can see it on the picture: bottom right of OSD) and a bunch of smaller scratches. Whoever last owned this treated it like shit, I guess.

>>2510987
Doing this right now, using the image restoration feature as a guide (I think there has to be 30 minutes of on-time before it becomes available).

Out of curiosity, does anyone here know exactly what that image restoration feature does and how it works?

[Anonymous No.2512359]

>>2512342

No it's not, and why would it ever be?
In computer history, there has alway been non-4:3 resolutions displayed on our 4:3 monitors. Are you also unable to play to games like Silpheed or Zeliard because they use a 640*200 resolution on PC-88 and a 720*400 resolution in their IBM port?

[Anonymous No.2512389]

>>2512359
when the content/hardware is made for 4/3 display, sure, like arcade games or consoles.
but 1280x1024 on a 4/3 display for using windows desktop isn't, and will appear squashed. And PC games that allow AR setting independently of resolution are rare as fuck. Heck, even emus with such option are rare also.

[Anonymous No.2512395]

>>2512356
are you sure they are on glass?
hi-end sony monitors has this problem that they get scratched by themselves out of static electricity on anti-glare coating layer when they are not grounded properly

thankfully you can pill of that antiglare layer

[Anonymous No.2512396]

>>2512395
*peel off

[Anonymous No.2512459]

>>2512395
Is there any way to check if my model would have an AG coating? I'm checking the service manual, and it doesn't mention anything about it.

Also, what kind of material is the AG coating? Is it something I could just cut with an x-acto knife along the bezel and peel off? I'd rather do that than take the case apart.

[Anonymous No.2513156]

Holy shit guys. Big thanks to whoever said I should splurge on this IBM P275, it's fucking amazing.

This 21" fucker weighs 70 pounds, barely got it into my house.

Here it is next to my PVM for comparison.

[Anonymous No.2513206]

>>2513156
Noice. Now show us dem scanlines.

[Anonymous No.2513227]

[Anonymous No.2513694]

Hey guys. Got my first pvm here. Its a 14m2mdu.

Wii is set to output 480i, component cables are hooked up. But its color is set to yuv, not rgb so its in black and white. Anyone care to help me really quick?

[Anonymous No.2513697]

>>2513156

that would be me, glad youre happy with it anon.
Normally whenever i buy stuff i flat out need i am filled with instant regret. But i'm glad you find satisfaction.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2513729]

>>2513694
>so its in black and white
Strange, since feeding Component while in RGB mode should give a green tint. The inverse would be a red tint, I believe.

Config -> RGB B System will let you select color system and sync type. COMP INT SYNC would be what you'd want for the Wii.
That looks more like you're only feeding the Y portion of YPbPr.

[Anonymous No.2513745]

>>2513729
Hey thanks for being here!
It is indeed set to comp int sync. I changed it from. B to a just to check, still bw.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2513761]

>>2513745
Mind taking a photo of the back of the set, with the cables plugged in?

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2513769]

>>2513745
>>2513761
On second thought, never mind.

The chroma knob is turned down all the way. Turn it back to default and you're good.

I'd also suggest setting the rest of the knobs to the middle(sans aperture which should be turned all the way down).

[Anonymous No.2513784]

>>2513769
Thank you so much!!
You're a life saver!

[Anonymous No.2513816]

How the fuck do I calibrate a CRT? Specifically a Sony KV36FV15. There's some overscan issues and a bit of other tweaking I wanna dick around with. All I can find online is some stuff about service mode and those test patterns or something.

[Anonymous No.2513958]

I have a question.

Today a friend and I were discussing the House of the Dead games. I have the first game on Saturn and the second game on Dreamcast, along with two light guns for each console. I have a Trintron/WEGA TV, but I had't tested the lightguns on it, I had assumed they would work the same as they did on my prior CRT.

Turns out, not so much. The Saturn (hooked up via S-video) light guns were pretty iffy, and would sometimes instantly go from one side of the screen to the next no matter where we were aiming. The light guns on the dreamcast (also hooked up via S-video) were MUCH worse, half the time they just plain failed to respond and would fly around the screen erratically.

Is there some sort of problem with Trinitrons and Light Guns?

[Anonymous No.2513972]

>>2513958
Light Guns weren't made to work with flat screen CRTs like the WEGAs. If your CRT's a flat screen, it responds, just not very well.

[Anonymous No.2514190]

O HAI there, Lazy McLaziness signing on.

I have 500€ to spend and need a good quality crt.

Tell me where I can buy a good quality one. Link please.

[Anonymous No.2514370]

>>2513958
Turn the brightness up

[Anonymous No.2514464]

After what seemed like endless trial and error, I finally got my RGB set-up figured out.

Quick question--if I have a SCART to BNC cable with a built-in sync stripper, should I strictly buy composite video SCART cables, or should I buy CSYNC cables regardless? Will they work with the SCART to BNC cable I have?

My PVM-2950q only takes CSYNC.

[Anonymous No.2514468]

>>2514464
Another picture because why not.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2514520]

>>2514464
An lm1881 doesn't care if it's fed composite video, csync, or luma.
It doesn't matter what type of sync the cable you buy is using in this situation.

[Anonymous No.2514526]

I have a flat faced Toshiba with a DVD player that was just given to me, without the remote of course, and it works fine, but it appears to be in overscan mode, and despite having a full set of controls for the DVD player on the box itself, they left out menu controls, and so unless I buy a universal remote, I'm stuck using my Gameboy Player or other systems with the screen cut off by almost an inch, not to mention the corners distort all the time.

Is it worth it to get a remote for this TV, or should I just try to find another one?

[Anonymous No.2514719]

How do I use external speakers with a mono PVM? Are there speakers that I can plug the RCA cables right into or what?

[Anonymous No.2514723]

>>2514520
Got another question. My monitor is 600 lines, shouldn't it be able to display a 480p resolution? When I set my Wii to 480p, the image splits in the middle of the screen.

Unless I completely misunderstand how CRT resolutions work.

[Anonymous No.2514727]

>>2514723

That means your monitor doesn't support 480p and can only do 480i.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2514734]

>>2514723
TVL refers to how much information can be explicitly resolved horizontally and has nothing to do with what resolutions it can display.
The M2 series is SD only, so you're only going to get 480i/240p and their PAL counterparts.

[Anonymous No.2514736]

>>2514719
Get a set of good PC speakers that use the 3.5mm TRS headphone jack and is self powered. Use a 3.5mm to RCA adapter to hook the console up to it. I have an old Logitech 2.1 speaker system that I used hooked up through my SCART switch.

[Anonymous No.2514739]

>>2514736

Okay...I have these 80s Lasonic speakers that I use for my computer (I don't know what you mean by 3.5mm TRS headphone jack...These just hook into the speaker jack in the computer)...Would those work?

[Anonymous No.2514742]

>>2514734
Mine's the 2950q, but I'm guessing the same's true for me. Damn, oh well. Guess I'll have to figure out how to scale 480i/480p down to 240p.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2514750]

>>2514742
In the case of Wii and Virtual Console/Emulators, many of them are already in 240p or have options for 240p output available.

[Anonymous No.2514754]

>>2514750
Yeah, I'm aware of that. I'm more concerned about the entirety of my Dreamcast and Gamecube library, I was just using the Wii for testing.

[Anonymous No.2514760]

>>2514739
This is a male 3.5mm TRS connector. If it's what your speakers have then they'll work just fine. You'll just need a 3.5mm Female to RCA Female adapter and you'll be able to hook up

[Anonymous No.2514762]

>>2514760
>>2514739
And this is the adapter you'll need to hook up consoles to the speakers. You should be able to find one fairly cheaply on Amazon or Ebay.

[Anonymous No.2514768]

>>2514760
>>2514762

Okay, cool...Thanks a lot.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2514780]

>>2514754
480i doesn't look bad from either of those systems even over S-Video; RGB and Component for both obviously given even better results
Both would benefit from having a genuinely higher res display, but I suppose scaling is an option as well.

There's homebrew out there for the GC that can force games into 240p with varying results.
http://www.gc-forever.com/wiki/index.php?title=Swiss/Forced_Progressive_Compatibility_List#NTSC_game_list
I haven't gotten a chance to do anything related to it myself, but it's worth looking into.

[Anonymous No.2514786]

What is the best CRT money can buy?

[Anonymous No.2514789]

>>2514780
Interesting. Maybe I'll look into Gamecube homebrew. Thanks for the heads-up.

[Anonymous No.2514797]

>>2512395
>>2512459 (followup)
Tried with an x-acto knife, and it doesn't seem to do shit. Also, when I try cutting from one of the scratches, it feels and sounds like I'm just fucking up the glass.

>>2513156
>1600x1200/85Hz
This makes me wish my graphics card had a VGA output on it. There doesn't seem to be a DisplayPort/HDMI to VGA adapter that goes higher than 1600x1200/60Hz.

[Anonymous No.2514803]

SFIII on Dreamcast thru 240p RGB on a BVM2010P. Sorry about the phone blur just imagine it looks alot better

[Anonymous No.2514839]

Does it not have DVI?

[Anonymous No.2514841]

>>2514839
meant to quote
>>2514797

[Anonymous No.2514864]

>>2514839
Only DVI-D.

[Anonymous No.2515243]

Has anyone here attempted to have a monitor shipped out to them? After trolling Craigslist for several months, I've accepted the fact that pro-grade CRTs don't exist in my area. Hell, even trying to find a good CRT locally that meets my requirements is more harder than it should be.

I'm looking to pick up one of the 20-inch BVMs off eBay.

[Anonymous No.2515548]

>>2511798
>>2512085
SimCity on SNES

[Anonymous No.2515585]

>>2515548
Dat alignment

[Anonymous No.2515794]

>>2514797
Does it not have DVI? Usually those are the only analog outputs graphics cards have on them now, and using a dvi to vga converter would work great.

[Anonymous No.2515802]

>>2515794
Shit somehow missed>>2514839

[Anonymous No.2515830]

>>2513156
Please to some HLSL shots at a really high resolution if possible.

[Anonymous No.2515873]

>>2515243
I had a 14 inch monitor shipped to me from eBay once. The shipping was free actually, so I was worried... And of course when it showed up the packing seemed really inadequate; it was just a box filled with packing peanuts! But as it so happens the monitor was in perfect shape, I think in part because the box wasn't big enough for it to be bumped around inside of if it got handled roughly.
That being said I think I got REALLY LUCKY. If you're concerned, ask the seller how they intend to package it before bidding/buying. Shipping a monitor isn't ideal but it's doable.

[Anonymous No.2515940]

>>2515585
The 27" Sony that wouldn't fit had some minor geometry issues, but I don't think it was as bad as this.

[Anonymous No.2516336]

>>2514786
Depends what you want it to do. Some of the Sony GVMs (sic) and the Mitsu XM's can do 15-45kHz, i think. And of course there's the PVM-20L5.

For PC-based CRT's the FM700, is it? FW700? Those are supposed to be nice.

What sort of stuff are you going to be using it for?

>>2515243
Yep. Get nervous. Even spacefoaming, which is probably going to cost another $100 to get the seller to do, isn't guaranteed. Just remember to take a shitload of photos, or even better video, of the box before and during opening, not to mention the contents.

[Anonymous No.2516572]

Anyone use an Expedit for a big CRT? It seems like ideal for displaying consoles, but I can't find any concrete information on how much weight the top can support, just the individual shelves. The TV I'm looking to put on it is nearly 140 pounds.

Failing that, any similar furniture recommendations that can support the weight would be appreciated.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2517945]

>>2516572
I've seen people use them for PVMs and the like, but those are easily half the weight of what you're planning.
Personally I wouldn't trust Ikea to support much more than a box of tissues. Joking aside, even if they can support that weight, would they be able to take the footprint/depth of the CRT in question?

>any similar furniture recommendations
Entertainment centers for 10+ years ago, since they were made with such a weight in mind.

I use a large coffee table for my stuff.

[Anonymous No.2518004]

>>2511094
God we need a pastebin for this. Just read up on soft15khz or groovymame. Good luck.

[Anonymous No.2518028]

>>2518004
Well here's a response I wrote in another thread and saved: "The short version is: Get either RGB 15khz monitor, or crt 15khz tv (if in murica get one w component, if scart country get scart) connect to vga with transcoder in murrica, or ultimate scart adapter in scart country (or make one), and on the computer side, get either recommended radeon card (like x600), or arcade VGA and read up on outputting 15khz, oooooorrrrr use a vga monitor with superwide resolution (this will have very stark scanlines though and be too sharp IMO)"

[Anonymous No.2518045]

>>2518028
I've also gotten it to work w svideo which looks just as nice as RGB to me. I used this board: http://www.jammaboards.com/store/rgb-to-ntsc-pal-tv-converter-pcb-cv-04.html, but had to run the signal through an Extron RGB 201 first, and change a dip switch inside it to make the sync work. Looks good though. Here it is running on a cheapo RCA TV through svid. (Here's this pic again)

[Anonymous No.2518051]

>>2518045

[Anonymous No.2518294]

>>2517945
The footprint wouldn't be a problem, but the more I read, the more I become unconvinced this would work out; which is a shame because the form factor is perfect for what I had in mind.

I might wind up constructing a frame out of solid wood to go "over" the Expedit, or go the full nine yards and just recreate the entire shelf out of solid wood. In the meantime, my 56-pound 20" should suffice.

[Anonymous No.2518392]

>>2518294
Yeah DIY furniture is no longer designed to be that robust. I'm using a mid-size coffee table i found that seemed pretty solid, with like 4" corner posts, and still i glued some reinforcing under the top. Any furniture store should have tables like that: 1-1.3m x 50-80cm with 2.5-5cm top slabs and a shelf underneath. They're normally about $150+ though, here in Aus. The sort of table I'm talking about will support 150Kg or so pretty happily, but doesn't make for a good way to display the consoles themselves.

[Anonymous No.2518412]

how can I tell if my CRT monitor is good,if its used a lot or not, finding out how many hours its got ?

Can that be determined just by looking at the picture quality,if its focused very well and sharp even at its biggest resolution 2048x1536 then is that a sign that its good ??

[Anonymous No.2518804]

Hey guys, posted in the previous thread,
Got one of these, a Centrex CTT6809E.

I previously posted that I was looking to clean up the picture quality as best as possible, but I came across a few geometry issues (straight lines became angled around the top third of the screen and what not), and was told to look into getting a universal remote so I could try fix it.
Remote just came in the mail today, got it all connected, but I'm not really sure where to go from here, as I can't find the tv's original manual online anywhere, and the company disappeared a good while ago either.

Any pointers/advice or places I could potentially find the manual? I've hit all the buttons on the remote and only new things that I've really come across are the ability to mute, change the colouring between "auto, Pal, Ntsc1-4" and another colour setting of "standard, mild, auto, memory and dynamic".

The "contrast, brightness, colour, tint and sharpness" were all previously accessible, but yeah, that's all I've really got going right now.

[Anonymous No.2518886]

>>2518804
You're unlikely to just stumble across the service menu; if it was easy, consumers could screw up their picture settings. For the Panasonic i have, i have to set the volume to zero, the auto off switch timer to 30mins, hold down two other buttons and try to reduce the volume further. Other manufacturers were entirely different but just as random.

Google isn't helping me either. It looks like a shit brand TV. I'm in Aus and i've never even heard of it. There's still heaps of CRTs popping up and gumtree and ebay, you might do better with a brand name set like a Sony. Google first, acquire later.

[Anonymous No.2518925]

>>2518886
Damn.. Are they generally the same for an entire brand or are they model dependent? That sucks nonetheless..

I guess I'll just keep looking. Thanks you for trying to help me find it though, it's appreciated.

[Anonymous No.2519001]

>>2518886
http://www.acdcmanuals.com/sm/index.php?itemid=22200&CTV_CENTREX_CTT6801

Any idea if this website is trustworthy or not? I couldn't find anything particularly positive nor negative on google, just one saying it's most likely safe, and a forum with a guy with acdcmanuals in his tag..

[Anonymous No.2519005]

>>2519001
>>2518886
Oops. Realised that's not the same model, but if accessing the service manual is the same for an entire brand, I'll consider it..

[Anonymous No.2519072]

>>2518412
Is it bright with decent contrast? Does it have any geometry/ convergence issues? That's all you need to know

[Anonymous No.2519083]

>>2518925
You can try searching '[brand name & model] +service menu' even if you can't find the whole manual there are websites that list menu short cuts

[Anonymous No.2519101]

>>2519083
Two results, I think I'm shit out of luck sadly.
Interesting how, even in today's day and age, we can lose information like this.

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2519370]

>>2518051
W-why...

[Anonymous No.2519382]

Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone who, like me, uses a wii to emulate with a crt. There,s an awesome homebrew app that you can download called the 240p test suite that comes with a large variety of test patterns and such to calibrate your television. The website is here if anyone is interested.

http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite

[Anonymous No.2519384]

>>2519382
*There's

[Anonymous No.2519403]

>>2519382
yeah it's pretty great, also available as a rom for a heap of 240p consoles.

[Anonymous No.2519404]

>>2519382
I recently discovered this, but unfortunately I have no idea how to actually calibrate my TV, and the internet has very few concise resources on how to do it.

[Anonymous No.2519430]

What resolution should I be playing DOS games at? What is the deal with 320x200 or 640x350? These are not 4:3 resolutions. Should I set to say 640x350 and leave black bars on my monitor or do I set the geometry so that the whole image takes up the 4:3 screen? Wouldn't that look terrible?

[Anonymous No.2519446]

>>2519430
>Those resolutions were intended so that you could run them a full res and still have room on the screen to keep a guide open for consultation. Most of these games were not intended to be played without a guide!

[Anonymous No.2519449]

>>2519430
>Like, I clearly have a sense of what to do and how bad the alternative would be, but I need you to validate my judgment, anonymous community! I won't make a move until you guys give me the go-ahead. I'll wait for my mom to cut my meat for me in the meantime.

[Anonymous No.2519539]

>>2519430
320x200 (400p@70Hz) is generally accepted as 4:3. The increased vertical refresh rate effectively spaces the lines further apart as a result. That being said, it takes more care and effort to maintain the correct aspect ratio in games so a lot of them just didn't do it. You'll just have to judge for yourself on a game-by-game basis if things look squished or stretched, unfortunately.

I don't know too much about x350; I assume real EGA displays were 4:3 because it's not very likely they created a new tube size just for that? EGA on VGA is likely to be 350 letter boxed on 480, but remember it was striving for compatibility, not quality.

[Anonymous No.2519617]

>>2516572
I tried that but I found out that I don't feel comfortable sitting on a couch and looking upwards to the CRT. I need it to be a bit lower than my eye level, if that makes sense. If only IKEA would make a similar shelf that would just be a bit lower (since there's quite a bit of excess vertical space there).

[Anonymous No.2519635]

>>2519617
That's funny; my issue with most IKEA pieces (and most pieces in general) are that they're too low to the ground. In fact, my very first entertainment center solution, way back when, was buying two small TV stands and stacking them one atop the other. To this day it still holds a 20" CRT with no problems, not even bending.

As far as excess vertical space goes, my plan was to buy the drawer inserts (which consists of two stacked drawers) and use one drawer for controllers etc and one for the console itself.

[Anonymous No.2519683]

>>2519635
My current retro TV & console stand is 57 cm high and it's just about perfect for my 20'' CRT. It's very flimsy and I want to replace it, but haven't found a suitable alternative.

I don't need much space above the consoles. Just enough to insert a cart easily into a SNES or AV Famicom would be fine.

[Anonymous No.2519728]

So how do CRTs compare to projectors for /vr/?

[Anonymous No.2519757]

>>2519539
This is basically correct.

That said, if you have a real CRT monitor, you ought to try emulating CGA and EGA games with scanlines at their intended refresh rate of 60Hz. The result is actually very nice.

[Anonymous No.2519980]

RGB/PVM newfag here. I've got a Sony PVM-20M4U and I want to hook up a Playstation SCPH-5501 to it via RBG. There are a couple cables to choose from and I'm not sure which one I want.

For the Playstation, I'm looking at this cable:
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-playstation-1-2-ps1-ps2-rgb-scart-cable-lead?tracking=5543fb4c077bb
Which sync do I want for this?

For the SCART to BNC cable, there are two of them -- one with a sync cleaner and one without. What's the advantage of the sync cleaner, and is it something that I want with my setup?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc?search=scart%20to%20bnc
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc?search=scart%20to%20bnc

[Anonymous No.2520012]

>>2519683
To each his own; my 20" sits atop a ~75cm stack. At the time, though, it needed to be that tall in order for my bed (and feet) to not obstruct my view of the screen. Still a great height for eye-level while sitting in a chair, at least for me.

[Anonymous No.2520015]

>>2519980
Just to add - the plan is to eventually use a SCART splitter for my consoles, but I don't have one at the moment.

[Anonymous No.2520480]

>>2519980
>What's the advantage of the sync cleaner?
First, read up on sync, if you haven't already - http://retrorgb.com/sync
As I understand it, a sync cleaner esentially turns any type of sync into CSYNC. This is useful for situations where a monitor or capture card only accepts CSYNC. I'm not sure if that's the case for your monitor, but someone here should know.

>>2520015
Do you mean a SCART switch? (multiple input -> 1 output vs 1 input -> multiple output)

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2520625]

>>2519980
M4 isn't picky about sync types, it'll take cvid, csync, or luma.

I use composite video for when I put my PS1/2 in RGB mode, but I've heard good things about using luma instead.

For the BNC cable, unless you have/plan to get a monitor or equipment that requires csync, just go with the standard one without the cleaner.

>>2520012
The table I have mine on is ~40cm off the ground, which is admittedly a bit low, but works for my current setup.
75 is about where it was before, which is probably a great height for just sitting head-on in a chair.


>>2520015
You'll need to get a male-male SCART cable to connect your breakout cable to the switch in all likelihood(usually only the cheap ones come with an attached cable) but other than that there shouldn't be any problems.

[Anonymous No.2520647]

>>2508752
I also own the 30XS955 and there is a noticeable amount of lag, no matter the resolution. I mean it looks pretty good for 480p shit but with geometry/convergence issues and signal lag I'd rather just get a newer sony lcd tv.

[Anonymous No.2520804]

>>2520480
Thanks for the link, I'll read up.

>Do you mean a SCART switch?
Derp, yes, that's what I meant.

>>2520625
Also really helpful, thanks. I'll just get the standard one.

[Anonymous No.2520878]

let this be a lesson guys, don't ship your super rare and expensive tubes with UPS in a single cardboard box.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2520945]

>>2520878
Is just the casing cracked, or is the tube shot as well?

[Anonymous No.2520964]

>>2520945
Took it apart, the steel chassis is completely warped too. Tube still looks good, but I can't really say for sure since it won't power on at all.

[Anonymous No.2521034]

>>2520878
Ahh anon I'm sorry, that really bites. I had a computer wrecked by UPS once and even though it was insured, dealing with the claim was a train wreck. I'm not sure it's worth it to try with a CRT since they will probably consider the value of the device to be minuscule, but something to consider I guess.

[Anonymous No.2521039]

>>2519728
I don't think many people on /vr/ use projectors... at all? Especially in the CRT thread I think they're considered not so good for retro.

[Anonymous No.2521069]

>>2520647
I also have said geometry and convergence issues, but I do not perceive any noticeable lag at 480p, and I play Melee at a decently high technical level.

[Anonymous No.2521076]

>>2521034
I've never had to deal with shipping insurance claims before. What does that involve exactly? I imagine it wouldn't be much more difficult than sending them before&after pics and saying "this cost me $xxx, you fucked up, now pay up"

... right?

[Anonymous No.2521115]

>>2521076
depends. If you buy something from a company and they take care of shipping and it arrives broken, NP. before and after pics will do it. You should only have to deal with the seller.

If you buy something and arrange the shipping yourself, it's trickier. Did you get insurance? Do they automatically offer insurance? If not, their terms probably state all care but no responsibility. If it turns out there is insurance, what does it cover (replacement of exact item, similar item, market value, reasonable cost, agreed value)? Most places are ok, but they're hardly going to go on a hunt across the other side of the world for another exact item in good condition. PC CRTs aren't worth much cash, so you might only get a few bucks, though the fact it's a few bucks probably means it's easier to get them to pay up.

[Anonymous No.2521243]

>>2521076
Hi, this is >>2521034
I can tell you that the process for me was NOWHERE near that simple, my computer was shipped between states by UPS and packed, by them, inadequately (it was not a new one shipped from the manufacturer, it was mine), resulting in massive damage. The casing had taken such a beating that it split open and got packing material inside. I took pictures and went through all their procedures and the whole thing took weeks.
It was a complete headache. Understand that this is a company you're dealing with and at the end of the day holding onto their money is their top priority.

[Anonymous No.2521868]

>>2519370
Why what? I'm too cheap to buy actual arcade boards.

[Anonymous No.2521876]

>>2521868
I think he means, your cabling is dicks, your pc appears to be on your console, and in general everything is a mess.

[Anonymous No.2521882]

>>2521876
Oh yeah, well it didn't stay that way. Thats a good nerdy mess. The dreamcast is a tough one.

[Anonymous No.2521895]

Getting really bad overscan on my Apex 32 inch. Just found out about service menu shit. Is it worth it for this model? Can it even be done?

[Anonymous No.2522007]

tfw you will never have this 0.20mm tube

because I got it now.

[Anonymous No.2522012]

>>2521243
What took them so long? You sent them pics and they only replied weeks later? Or did they start arguing like in that monty python sketch.

[Anonymous No.2522039]

>>2522012
They had to send someone out to come get it, ship it back, have inspectors look at it at the place of origin, determine value (this was a big process despite me having receipts), and ultimately attempt to squirm out of accepting responsibility.

[Anonymous No.2522050]

>>2522039
Oh wow. That does sound pretty bad. I'm not looking forward to having them ship this thing a second time. Besides it's currently in parts scattered all over the room and I've started to straighten out the chassis parts already.

[Anonymous No.2522078]

>>2522050
I'm not sure it's worth it to go after them anon, especially if you've altered what you received already, they might not want to help you.
It was unclear to me whether or not they even intended to ship it back at first because the website said they would send someone to inspect it either at my end or where it originated, and nobody informed me which they were planning. You may be able to have it inspected without getting it shipped.
I was lucky in that I had a relative who was helping me ship my stuff who could help keep an eye on things in the other state, but if you don't I think things could get messy.

http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/service/claims/hlp/damage_process.html

[Anonymous No.2522294]

Receiving this PVM-20M2MDU/ST via FedEx tomorrow. Along with crossing my fingers that it wasn't packed by a moron does anyone else have this model specifically, do you enjoy it? This will be my first PVM. Apparently this one was manufactured in 2003. Just curious how late into the 2000s were these built? Is this considered a late model?

I did as much googling/research as possible before purchasing. Hope it all goes well.

[Anonymous No.2522349]

https://www.reddit.com/r/gloriouscrtmasterrace/wiki/guide

[Anonymous No.2522362]

>>2522349
That's a slightly shitty guide right there. Even with the 0.20mm I just got, you're not going to read any text at 5760x4320... especially not interlaced.

[Anonymous No.2522409]

D..d..did I choose well senpai?

[Anonymous No.2522590]

>>2522409
You fucked up bad. That monitor is obviously sideways.

[Anonymous No.2522639]

>>2522409
>altering gravity to play tate
GENIUS

[Anonymous No.2522738]

>>2522294
I have a PVM-20M2MDU that was built in 2002. IIRC, the latest Sony built the medical CRT's was 2006-2007.

Mine looks great with 240p on my consoles and 480i with my LaserDisc player. It even came with the splatter guards over the vents and the controls. Definitely one of the best 20 inch CRT's if all you want is 240p/480i and don't need/want 480p.

[Anonymous No.2522785]

>>2522590

Sorry, posting from my phone

[Anonymous No.2522968]

>>2522738
Awesome! Good to hear. Sounds like it will be perfect for my needs. I suppose I can check the manual (pdf file I found) but what type of sync does this accept, will I need a sync stripper from your experience?

[Anonymous No.2522997]

>5 hours of calibration to get an "ok" picture on a fuckhuge heavy WEGA
At least it was free...

[Anonymous No.2523010]

>>2522968
You won't need a stripper. It'll accept composite sync, luma, or composite video as sync. You can even change the settings to use Sync on Green for RGB and separate sync for component, and it'll accept NTSC, PAL, and SECAM, so just about any 15KHz video you could throw at it will work.

[Anonymous No.2523189]

>>2522294
I've seen that ad on ebay. How much did you offer?

[Anonymous No.2523190]

>>2522294
I had the olympus one. Apparently the phosphors on the medical ones are different and last a lot longer or some shit. It looked great. I'm a retard for selling it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2523249]

>>2522349
>>2522362
>it is likely that they would be capable of at least 250kHz and 480Hz
Ah yes, because it's perfectly feasible that AMD and Nvidia would include a 2.3khz RAMDAC to even attempt to push such a stupid resolution.

The entire thing reads like some bad copy pasta straight outta /g/ (those bullet points look like they're based on one) and is written heavily on hypotheticals without taking real world conditions into account.

>>2522294
I have one, and while it is getting old and starting to show its age, I really like the thing.
It's an older one, from 1998; I've seen them with manufacture dates up to 2004 though.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2523298]

>>2523249
>2.3khz
>k
gigahertz rather

[Anonymous No.2523340]

Some more Tsundere Orc Princess

[Anonymous No.2523349]

I've got a PVM 20m2mdu put away right now that I ordered from the states. It worked for twenty minutes or so before the orange light at the top of the unit turned on and the display refused to turn on again.

Anybody have any idea what it could be? I picked this thing up years ago, and I've gotten a replacement PVM since, but I figured I'd ask before I put the thing up for free in my local classifieds.

[Anonymous No.2523381]

>>2523349
Why not take it to a repair shop? At least you can call and ask how much it would be to look at it. Might be a simple cheap fix.

[Anonymous No.2523389]

>>2523381
There isn't a single local repair shop in my city that covers CRTs any more. I looked pretty thoroughly.

You'd think in a city of 500k people there'd be at least one, but nah.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2523396]

>>2523349
That's the tally lamp. A glance through the service manuals really doesn't help much and a cursory google search brings up mentions of it possibly being a power supply issue.

[Anonymous No.2523407]

>>2523396
Yeah, about as much as I learned through googling pretty much.

I think passing it off to someone else is probably my best bet.

[Anonymous No.2523631]

Just got myself a PVM 14M4A and it seems to work beautifully except for a couple of peculiarities.

1) I can't access the service menu. I have the same model in 20" (20M4A) and its method of accessing it is to hold the Menu button followed by pushing Degauss and Enter simultaneously. This doesn't seem to do anything on the 14M4A.

2) Whenever it loses a signal (e.g. turning a console off) it goes into some sort of standby mode where the light above the screen lights up a dim orange. Anyone know how I can disable this? I've checked the regular menu and there doesn't seem to be anything in there for it. Knowing my luck it'll be in the service menu, which I currently can't access.

[Anonymous No.2523647]

This looks pretty heavy duty anyone know anything about it?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/southport/tvs/nec-monitor-42-/1083004146

[Anonymous No.2523658]

>>2523647
and this http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/auchenflower/other-electronics-computers/nec-3210-multisync-lcd/1081109902

[Anonymous No.2523770]

Someone's selling a PVM-204ME locally to me, are these considered top tier? Or near top?

[Anonymous No.2523829]

>>2523631
1- it should, mine does (14m4e but same otherwise)
2 - ni, never had that, isn't it supposed to light up when you have recording equipment attached?

[Anonymous No.2523834]

>>2523770
short of a L5 or BVM yeah they are 800 lines compared to most pvms which are 500-600

[Anonymous No.2523841]

>>2523829
>1- it should, mine does (14m4e but same otherwise)

Well out of curiosity I tried it on the 20M4A and now it doesn't work on that either. I'm thinking I might have remembered the buttons wrong, I dunno.

>2 - ni, never had that, isn't it supposed to light up when you have recording equipment attached?

No idea.

[Anonymous No.2523932]

>>2523841
Make sure you're already in the menu when you do it? Or is it out of the menu?

>>2523647
>>2523658
Look terrible. Both LCD. One is low res, the other doesn't say, but isn't anywhere near new.

Why would you post these on a CRT board?

[Anonymous No.2523938]

I'm the person trying to get the AR coating off my G520 monitor.

Just noticed this happening. When I place my mouse pointer near one of the scratches, the top and bottom of the cursor glows white.

Should I be worried? I've stopped trying to cut and peel the AR coating, since I'm convinced there isn't one.

[Anonymous No.2524195]

>>2523834
I just thought of something. What use is 800 lines to something that will only run at 15kHz?

[Anonymous No.2524202]

>>2524195
800 horizontal?
the saturn can do like 704 or something. plus dvd video

[Anonymous No.2524213]

>>2524202
Which can't be done at 15kHz.

[Anonymous No.2524226]

>>2524195
>. What use is 800 lines to something that will only run at 15kHz?

He's not talking about scan lines, but TV lines, which are vertical. It's a bit like the equivalent of the dot pitch of shadowmask monitors, but for aperture grid ones.

Also, it's totally possible for a 15kHz monitor to display 800 horizontal lines at a 15Hz refresh rate though.

[Anonymous No.2524286]

> 1µSv/h
this is, uh, more than I expected.

[Anonymous No.2524295]

>>2524286

2 µSv/h is considered the tolerable dose, so I don't know what's problematic m8.

[Anonymous No.2524307]

>>2524286
at 10cm distance.
and its most probably beta radiation which is absorbed by like, 2cm of air

[Anonymous No.2524347]

>>2524307
That mean the radiation is basically chernobyl at 0cm right?
I want to play Fallout 4 on a triple crt setup now. For improved immersion.


>>2523249
>Ah yes, because it's perfectly feasible that AMD and Nvidia would include a 2.3khz RAMDAC to even attempt to push such a stupid resolution.

would be cool if they did though. Something like 1536i at 160Hz seems perfect for quake3 and the like.

[Anonymous No.2524510]

>>2524347

No, the radiation is like half of what a guy living in a granite house receive per hour, or even what a guy could receive by eating 10 bananas.

[Anonymous No.2524534]

>>2524510

This anon.
Calm your tits, if every object that radiate energy at contact was at the level of chernobyl, we would be all dead.

[Anonymous No.2524538]

>>2524510
>>2524534
This chart is both comforting and alarming to me; ambient radiation is one of those things I'd prefer not knowing about.

[Anonymous No.2524539]

>>2522349
>all those resolutions
>with 400 Mhz RAMDAC
I don't fucking think so

[Anonymous No.2524556]

Well this is terrifying:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokaimura_nuclear_accident#In_1999

[Anonymous No.2524589]

>>2524538

Well, ambient radiation is mostly harmless, being scared of it is like being scared of 1.5V batteries imho.

[Anonymous No.2524882]

>>2520878

just look at the circuit board maybe a cable got lose ,look for obvious ,if the tube is good and still under vacuum you don't need to be worried,electronics you can find replacements cheap, just fixing might need some knowledge

[Anonymous No.2524887]

>>2520878

take a good pic of the inside of the monitor the circuit board

[Anonymous No.2524905]

Ok guys. Just got my 20M2MDU. Noticed that the right side of the screen is darker than the rest of the monitor. How fucked am I? Is there a remedy to this? Also I'm only using composite until I get my cables in. Its not terrible. Its really noticable on white and thats about it.

Any help appreciated. Excuse my shit attempt at taking a picture of said situation. I'll get better.

[Anonymous No.2524909]

>>2524905
Did you degauss?

[Anonymous No.2524914]

>>2524909
Yeah. A few times.

[Anonymous No.2524917]

>>2524914
With the built in function or with an external degaussing coil? When you degaussed, did the discoloration move at all?

[Anonymous No.2524919]

>>2524917
With the internal function. I don't have an external coil. Maybe I should invest in one. I didn't notice it move. Let me try it again.

[Anonymous No.2525094]

>>2524195
It's about clarity. Try it and see.

[Anonymous No.2525118]

>>2522294
>Had that exact one in my watch list
Shit. Well, it'll be interesting to see how it get's packaged & shipped.

[Anonymous No.2525125]

>>2524347
It's sort of scary that in Australia most pvm users got them from when abc in Brisbane sold all theirs off after they built a new HQ. They relocated because people their were getting all kinds of cancers and they couldn't account for the reason.

[Anonymous No.2525137]

>>2523932
>Make sure you're already in the menu when you do it? Or is it out of the menu?

Tried it both ways. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

[Anonymous No.2525149]

>>2525125

I'm this guy >>2523631 and yeah, pic related.

[Anonymous No.2525168]

Trying to trade my monitor on craigslist for another monitor has been a more difficult task than I expected it to be...

[Anonymous No.2525194]

>>2525125
Timing of that? The ABC sells stuff every year, and they also recently went through the Glass Replacement Project, which saw them move away from CRT's nationwide. I say recently, but it started about two years ago i think. Most of the stock ended up in Sydney. I'm pretty sure that's where Auschoice's latest round came from.

I reckon another facility would've noticed cancer clusters if it was that big an issue. Meaning worldwide, not just in Aus.

[Anonymous No.2525481]

>>2524882
Can't see anything wrong with it, no loose cables or visually damaged components anywhere. The only sign of life is a very faint whine from the power supply.

anyone know where to get Eizo service manuals? that might help here I guess.

[Anonymous No.2525549]

>>2525194
auschoice is just outside of brisbane, why would they ship them all the way from sydney/the brisbane HQ had a complete refit

[Anonymous No.2525650]

Before my on-topic reply... anyone using firefox having trouble with the catcha not coming up? It just doesn't load, tickbox, logo and all, and thus i can't post because i can't even start it, let alone complete it. (I'm at work now, on Chrome)


>>2525549
Because Auschoice doesn't decide what the ABC does or how it sells its old gear.

The ABC didn't sell everything at once, they normally offload stuff once or twice a year, but i *think* most of the CRT stuff is gone. When i was hunting PVMs people on staff in different states were talking about the Glass Replacement Project, and the fact all their CRT's had been loaded onto pallets and shipped to Sydney - I'm pretty sure it was stationwide policy applied regardless of location, the sort of mindless bureaucracy that the staff can't question even if they want to.

The last lot of CRTs I'm aware of was sold from Pickles auction house in Sydney around November last year. About February, auschoice started unloading what looked like a lot of that stock. This was the pre-ebay private sales we got wind of here. It might have been a different auction they got their goods from, there were bits and pieces definitely missing, and I'm not sure exactly who bought what, as the bidders/winners aren't disclosed, but I reckon it's all tied together.

If that's the case those monitors could have come from anywhere in Aus.

[Anonymous No.2525657]

>>2525650
I could also be jumping to conclusions, but the info I have points to what i posted. It'd be interesting to know what really happened :)

[Anonymous No.2525668]

Is this the best you can get with RF? It looks shit with and without noise reduction but in completely different ways, I forget which this is, I cant tell fron the thumbnail. Would I notice a huge improvement if I used composite?

[Anonymous No.2525673]

>>2525668

Depends on your idea of "huge" but it would be significant, yes.

[Anonymous No.2525675]

>>2525668
That's gotta be w/ noise reduction

[Anonymous No.2525678]

>>2525668
No anon, this is how the developers intended

[Anonymous No.2525679]

>>2525678

Should have inb4'd. Some people might take you seriously.

[Anonymous No.2525686]

>>2525679
I should really hope not.

>that was a joke, RF is barely tolerable in 1st-3rd gen stuff, and is only an option in later consoles because poor people

Should cover me

[Anonymous No.2525691]

>>2525679
But it's true, anything to mask that laughable genesis palette.

[Anonymous No.2525838]

>>2518804
Here again,
Just gonna throw it out one last time as I'm a little upset with the a few geometry issues with my screen, like the curvature and what not.

But if anyone could find any information on this tv and the service menu, it'd be greatly appreciated.

I've found very little online as the company went under and seemed pretty shitty in general. Closest things I've found were circuitry work, sus stores selling similar models service manuals, or a russian online store selling what I thought was a manual, but in russian and requiring circuitry knowledge to even make an account to download.

As I've said earlier, the screen curves a lot around the edges, and stuff like in the picture shown, where straight lines angle after a point (although not as bad as the photo insinuates, I think the iphone camera curves it more so) and thickness changes a little.

It looks mostly fine, but in motion you can really tell the curvature around the edges. Thankfully you rarely notice that in Melee which it's mostly used for.

If possible, I'd love to fix this. Shelling out the money for random CRT's or a PVM is something I'd like to avoid, even though I would love a PVM.

[Anonymous No.2525857]

>>2525838
I feel like all crt's will have that slight curvature around the edges, so I'm probably just being a baby about that (but if I can lessen it I will 100%), and I can probably fix the alternating thickness to the lines by lowering the sharpness from 20/100 to 0. But then there's still the strange angling of lines, although that's pretty unnoticeable besides that one screen..

Maybe I should just deal wid it.

[Anonymous No.2525918]

Hope I get a quick response to this, I'm stumped. First off the crt I have is a Panasonic tau and I don't have a pic of the model number on this device but I can post one later. Anyway the tv has always been great but today I was in the other room when I heard my kid yell to me somethings wrong with the tv. I ran over and the picture was completely frozen but worse than that, the sound it was making was very strange. Hard to explain but like a knocking or banging on the inside. I dunno like a rusty fan or something. I turned it off immediately and even unplugged it. I dunno if I should just scrap it or what. Thanks in advance

[Anonymous No.2525932]

>>2525668
yes

[Anonymous No.2526903]

>>2525668
This is what a photo downscaled except for the portion squared looks like with my CRT TV and Genesis and RF.

[Anonymous No.2526905]

>>2526903

[Anonymous No.2527214]

Hey dudes. I just picked up this 24" Sanyo flat screen crt from Savers for $12. I had to mess around in the service menu a bit to get the geometry right, but it looks great now. This is an XP pc running Groovymame/Crtemudriver and a Radeon X600 into an Extron 201 RXI, and to an Audio Authority 9A60 VGA to component transcoder and into the component input.

[Anonymous No.2527218]

[Anonymous No.2527227]

I love Mark of the Wolves.

[Anonymous No.2527231]

[Anonymous No.2527236]

Thats it. Might take some more later when the sun isn't fucking up my picture taking.

[Anonymous No.2527448]

rate my trinni

[Anonymous No.2527639]

>>2525838
A PVM will have curvature too. If you want perfect geometry, use an LCD. You can adjust your CRT for as long as you want, but the best you'll ever get is an acceptable compromise.

[Anonymous No.2527654]

>>2527639
>flat-screen CRTs and PVMs don't exist

[Anonymous No.2527660]

>>2527639
Mmm, I've never noticed in most games, but in Digimon World 3, it seems quite prominent and quite distracting.
But I guess I'll just suck it up nonetheless. Was hoping I could adjust it somehow to make the area it affects smaller, but that's fine.

[Anonymous No.2527696]

>>2527654
Flat screen CRTs and PVMs are better in some respects, but they're not perfect.

[Anonymous No.2528003]

>>2527639
> If you want perfect geometry, use an LCD.
You really pay for that geometry with image quality though.

[Anonymous No.2528092]

Anyone want to give me any pointers for using the 240p test suite with my newly acquired PVM 20M2MDU. I'm only able to use it with my SNES flash cart right now. I want to get the geometry as close as possible I know it won't be perfect. As far as the grid goes, am I trying to get the red border in the picture as well?

[Anonymous No.2528227]

>>2528003
I have a really good LCD screen that looks great, actually.

[Anonymous No.2528240]

>>2528092
If the Snes version has a 240x320 grid use that rather than the other one. I have mine set so that the dots in the red border and just showing on the edge of the screen but it's up to you. Most games on SNES don't run at 240x320 but you'll find most consoles have that as the standard. Worst thing you can do is play with black edges showing.

Keep checking the circles test screen >>2508417 as that's way more important to get looking right.

[Anonymous No.2528308]

>>2528227
Well it is useful to have low standards.

[Anonymous No.2528494]

I'm trying to look for a big (about 22") high resolution crt monitor on ebay (something like 1920x1440), but I simply can't find one.

Only one currently seems to be this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Iiyama-22inch-CRT-Computer-monitor-/201382587997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ee3566e5d

but it's pickup only, because the seller apparently doesn't even lift.

Can someone of you tell me how often these kind of monitors seem to pop up on ebay?

[Anonymous No.2528637]

Could somebody point me in the direction for trickery to use to simulate 240p on a PC CRT monitor? (Custom Resolutions etc.)

[Anonymous No.2528660]

I picked up this Sony Profeel KX-27PS1 today for a couple of beers. Does anyone else have one?

[Anonymous No.2528671]

>>2528660

Nice catch m8! I'd love to get this kind of set one day.

[Anonymous No.2528692]

>>2528637
http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#240p.2F480i_Emulation
>>2528660
Lucky bastard.

[Anonymous No.2528732]

>>2527639
But who cares right? As long as linearity is good and doesn't change with bright images, overall geometry is not that important IMO.

[Anonymous No.2528735]

>>2528671 If I ever decide to part ways with it I'll post here for you. I read it was the same TV that Tony Montana had in Scarface looks pretty similar. https://youtu.be/YE8nCNLylEM

>>2528692 Bah! I cannot unsee that now when I look at my new Profeel.

[Anonymous No.2528736]

>>2528308
Sure, an LCD with S-Vid and Component, 240p, clear picture, and imperceptible lag might be "low standards" to a snob like you, but sane people are just fine with it.

[Anonymous No.2528821]

>>2528735

Thanks for your offer m8. Been missing the occasion to get a kx-27ps1 like 3 times, but I'm still hoping.

[Anonymous No.2528871]

anon with the cracked F931 here, haven't found the cause of the problem yet but I'll start cleaning up my workbench now and get to it. Figured I might as well try and fix some other screens too.

I have this crt screen which I took apart once when I was a dumb kid, to figure out how it works and to experiment with. Just found it again, no idea if it's repairable but I cut a bunch of wires which I'll have to resolder. Anyway the yoke is loose. Now when I get it back on, how do I realign this thing? Can I just hold and rotate the yoke while it's powered on, or do I have to turn it off, rotate, and recheck every time? I think there might be painful voltages on the horizontal coil right?

And my favourite low-res tube has a bit of a colour problem. The blue and green gamma are way off, so if you show a black to white gradient it appears as black->dark red->dark purple->grey->light grey->white.
I can get this right by using gamma adjustment in Windows. But this screen is for DOS use where I don't have this luxury. I opened the screen up once and only found RGB gain controls (no bias or gamma).
Bad gamma is caused by non-linear emission of the electron guns right? Does this mean the tube is worn out? Could it possibly be fixed?

[Anonymous No.2528913]

>>2525918
Here is pic related if that helps my issue. Im thinking I should just scrap it though

[Anonymous No.2529308]

>>2528660
Whats the inputs on that thing? I'm so jelly of you non Americans with all your scarts and killer old Sonys.

[Anonymous No.2529317]

>>2528732
It just depends on what distortions bother you and what ones don't. Most people will be fine if they're able to minimize the distortions that they care about.

[Anonymous No.2529341]

>>2528660
Jelly as fuck. To me those look better than the pvm design.

[Anonymous No.2529426]

>>2528871
>but I'll start cleaning up my workbench now and get to it. Figured I might as well try and fix some other screens too.
That's great to hear.
Not many anons here go though the effort of repairing or modding CRTs.

>cut a bunch of wires which I'll have to resolder.
Good luck with this. Be careful not to mix them up and isolate the deflection and anode wires very good.

>Anyway the yoke is loose.
How sure are you that you didn't broke the tube?
Can you remember a hearing some sort of hiss while you handled the tube?
Are there any dark spots on the phosphors?

>Can I just hold and rotate the yoke while it's powered on
Yes. Wear gloves and be gentle.
But before I start giving you instruction how to align it, you better get it running.

>I think there might be painful voltages on the horizontal coil right?
Yes. It doesn't hurt as much as that as the one LCD TV which I attempted to repair some years ago.
As long the current doesn't go though both your arms, you be fine. If it happens that you get shocked then relax and drink something.

>I opened the screen up once and only found RGB gain controls (no bias or gamma).
This might do the trick, you better setup some reference screen next to it (or get a colorimeter) when you calibrate the colors.

>Does this mean the tube is worn out? Could it possibly be fixed?
Maybe adjusting the screen/G2 voltage might help, but do it slowly.

[Anonymous No.2529498]

>>2528871

post some pics of the attempt repair

[Anonymous No.2529881]

>>2529426
>How sure are you that you didn't broke the tube?
It looks intact to me, and I recall rotating the yoke around to see what it did. (somehow without zapping myself)
And I also recall adjusting every single trimpot in there to see what these did...

>This might do the trick
Not sure about that, RGB gain and bias look good to me since black=black and white=white. Seems pretty close to 6500K actually. Only the mid-tones (gamma) are wrong.

>Maybe adjusting the screen/G2 voltage might help, but do it slowly.
IIRC I already turned up the screen voltage once when the brightness control on the front didn't go up far enough anymore. It didn't change anything about the colours.


>>2529498
haven't finished cleaning up yet. place is a mess right now. will resume tomorrow.

[Anonymous No.2529937]

I FUCKING FOUND IT, /crt/, I SOUND HOW TO GET INTO THE SERVICE MENU ON MY SHITTY ANCIENT CRT THAT NOBODY ELSE IN THE WORLD SEEMS TO HAVE HAD. SHIT, FUCK, DICKS.

I CAN FINALLY PLAY RETRO VIDYA WITH GLORIOUS RGB SCART QUALITY WITHOUT EVERYTHING BEING SIX MILES OFF TO THE LEFT

JESUS I COULD SHIT A FUCKING WATERMELON

NNNGH

Will post pics when I have fucked around with it some. Turns out I had to press menu on the TV set, and then 1 on the remote, in really fucking fast succession. Yes, I thought this warranted all those caps, I have been trying for weeks. Even opened the thing up at one point to see if it was one of those where you have to move a jumper or something.

God I am relieved, my OCD was going crazy over the dilemma between using shitty composite but things being nicely centred, or RGB but everything being messed up.

[Anonymous No.2529960]

>>2529937
Sweet anon, happy for you.
Legit no sarcasm.

[Anonymous No.2530047]

>>2529937

And to think- I spent 11 hours on a playthrough of this game, using composite input. Christ.

[Anonymous No.2530167]

>2529308 It has a few inputs see image. I'm wondering if I can connect a Super Famicom using a JP21 RGB cable? Or is that 21-pin port EuroSCART only?
>>2529341 I also have a Sony PVM-D20L5A in near mint cond. which has a better picture than my Profeel but I also prefer the Profeel design. I'll have to part with one of them eventually tough decision.

[Anonymous No.2530313]

Got it for 2.50, looked pretty nice at the flea market, only got it because I need a small form factor RF/Composite monitor for old micros, tested with my genesis though cause it was already out. I'm pretty impressed but I'm not really a connoisseur

[Anonymous No.2530315]

>>2530313
Fucks sake it showed it completely upright in the fucking thumbnail why the fuck does this shit fucking happen I swear to fucking god it even showed up right for a split second after I posted it what in the mother fuck jesus fucking christ I'm so fucking upset right now fuck I'll just use my digital camera next time

[Anonymous No.2530352]

>>2530167
>Sony Profeel KX-27PS1
Depends on what the region is. The input diagram above describes the Scart port as Peri-Tel, which was what they called it in France. It can be modded to accept RGB:

>3v at least to pin 8 and a 100 resistor to pin 16 to your scart cable and i use a 3v transformer to power it.
http://www.videokarma.org/archive/index.php/t-255458.html

Another member describes:
>12+ to pin 8 and a 100k resistor to pin 16 of my scart cable and i used a 12v transformer to power it. it switched to rgb mode
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4075.0

[Anonymous No.2530462]

>>2529937
Anon, how did you find out? I'm using a crt with fuck all information on the company, let alone the brand, and I would kill to find my service menu.

[Anonymous No.2530782]

[Anonymous No.2530785]

>>2530462

I'm sure you've come across those websites with lists of TV sets and how to get to the service code? They had listings for TVs by the same brand as mine, but not the model. I literally went through trying every possible option, figuring some of them must use the same software/circuit boards. I thought I had tried everything a couple times, but I just kept googling using different variations of "service code, service menu, service mode" etc until I found something new.

What inspired me to try this is a site I found that lists the chassis, and CRT models and makes matched up- Tons of retailers back in the day bought the same actual tubes and packaged them in their own shell and brand name, you know? So it's plausible that if you can't find any info on your model, you might be able to at least get an idea what is similar, and try find listings for that.

[Anonymous No.2530786]

[Anonymous No.2530797]

>>2530785
Ah, damn, I haven't really been able to find any with even the brand itself. Some niche one that went under a few years back with like 0 documentation.. I'll keep looking though.

[Anonymous No.2530825]

>>2530352
Cheers for the info mate.

[Anonymous No.2530865]

Is there a way I can get proper scanlines through a PC CRT?
Both 240p and 480p with injected scanlines show much larger scanlines than I think should be present.

[Anonymous No.2530879]

>>2530352
>It can be modded to accept RGB:

But it does already accept RGB through SCART. At least in France.it does (I've never read anything in French about this set needing to be modified to accept RGB through SCART).

[Anonymous No.2531018]

Suddenly my monitor no longer blurs after 5 minutes of turning on, yay!

[Anonymous No.2531041]

>>2530879
they think that making sure that the RGB on pin is high means "modding". Which normal RGB scart equipment will already do, but if all you have is RGBS+LR you'll need to feed it from some transformer or something using custom cabling.

[Anonymous No.2531282]

Ran into a weird issue with Pokemon Stadium 1 on a BVM-D24E1WU. Sometimes when you started a minigame, it would look fine. Then, you could try to play the same minigame again and the top of the screen would be really distorted.

It's the only game I experienced this with so far and even within this game, it was on and off. Any idea what's happening?

[Anonymous No.2531409]

>>2515243
Me again. Regarding the Sony pro-monitors, what kind of monitor would I need for PC emulation like GroovyMAME & RetroArch? I want something with support for PC hook-up as well as console support.

As for consoles like Dreamcast, Xbox, and PS2, what kind of cables would I need? Found a bunch of stuff at retrogamingcables.co.uk, but I'm not entirely sure of what I'd need.

Any other monitor suggestions outside of Sony's stuff is fine too

[Anonymous No.2531454]

>>2523249
I have a PVM-20M4E but damn that looks nice in white.

[Anonymous No.2531538]

[Anonymous No.2531540]

[Anonymous No.2531542]

[Anonymous No.2531546]

[Anonymous No.2531549]

[Anonymous No.2531556]

[Anonymous No.2531576]

>>2531549
Yummy!

[Anonymous No.2531582]

>>2508107
Why do you have it wired like that?

[Anonymous No.2531683]

>>2530865
>Both 240p and 480p with injected scanlines show much larger scanlines than I think should be present.

The dot pitch of the screen makes the raster lines more focused and the gaps more apparent. This is just how 240p looks on a high res screen, just like how it is on high-end BVM monitors.

You can try using the geometry controls to make the screen size smaller to increase the phosphor size relative to the image, which has the effect of making the raster lines "bloom" more into the gaps.

[Anonymous No.2531750]

>>2531538
>>2531540
>>2531542
>>2531546
>>2531549
>>2531556
The monitor is a PVM-8044Q 450 lines. It's tiny, but being right front of me on my desk it's not a problem.

[Anonymous No.2531804]

>>2531409
Do you want 15 khz and 31 khz support? An L5 pvm or Nec xm29 will do that. Have fun paying $500. Or you can get a VGA crt for $5 and a good sd tv for another $5.

[Anonymous No.2531818]

>>2531804
Or you can just get a 15khz pro monitor like an Ikegami or PVM/BVM and just deal with the 480i flicker from the PS2, DC, and Xbox. You'll still be spending quite a bit. $150 at least. Prices have gotten crazy. Another option is a small upscaler+scanline generator on a VGA monitor. A really nice VGA monitor will be as sharp as a BVM just won't have 15khz support. You can also do a superwide resolution on them for emulation, but thats a whole other discussion.

[Anonymous No.2531827]

>>2531818
Samefag, oh and as far as cables go, that just depends on what your monitor has available. Does it support rgb? component? svideo? It depends on which one you end up buying.

[Anonymous No.2531881]

>>2531804
>Do you want 15 khz and 31 khz support?
Both, if possible. I can probably do with a standard VGA monitor and track down a good consumer CRT for component stuff, though I'd rather it be all through just one pro monitor for the sake of convince.
>Nec xm29
Goddamn, the shit I'd do to get my hands on one. I've been lusting after one for years, and have never found one locally.
>L5 pvm
Huh?
Or you can get a VGA crt for $5 and a good sd tv for another $5.
I'm at a loss on what's the best monitor to own besides that Sony fw900. Same with TVs besides Trinitrons. I've tried out a few random ones in a thrift store with a PS2 via component and the MMX collection, and the picture was pretty shit on all of them.

[Anonymous No.2531948]

>>2531282
followup - I'm guessing it has to be some RGB incompatibility specific to the game, since the PEXHDCAP recording is also messed up, but in a different way.
weird

[Anonymous No.2531964]

>>2531282
>>2531948
What do you use as sync and what kind of RGB mod?
Also, I know that Pokemon Stadium 2 uses interlacing. Maybe that's why the recording is messed up.

[Anonymous No.2531981]

>>2531881
That PS2 game was probably 480i. Its always blurry and flickery. Progressive is the only way anon. Use a PS1 game next time for 240p when testing out Tvs. L5's are multisync pvms that do 240p to 1080i, and are expensive as shit in 20"

[Anonymous No.2532070]

>>2508102
Anyone know what's the name of the game in OP pic? I used to play it when I was younger, but I forgot, and google doesn't help (it brings a fucking /r9k/ thread).

[Anonymous No.2532092]

>>2532070
Looks like one of the Aero Fighters/Sonic Wings games.

[Anonymous No.2532108]

>>2532092
Yeah, it seems it.
I must have gotten confused.

[Anonymous No.2532212]

Are arcade CRTs worth the price?

What makes them so expensive just demand?

[Anonymous No.2532285]

I'm having a bit of a problem /crt/, and hoping some wise and kind anon can help.

I previously used an old AMD laptop with an ATI mobility x200 gpu and crt_emudriver to get 15kHz singals. I made myself a VGA-BNC cable, combining H-Sync and V-Sync using viletim's combiner. I used VMMaker with a complete 0.152 MAME romset to generate the modelines.

I fed this signal into my PVM-14M4A. The sync signal was technically running at 4.8V but it worked seamlessly.

I wanted to clean things up a bit re modelines and bloat, and resinstalled XP. This time, I used a MAME 0.160 romset, but otherwise did the same, using the same cable, and the 14M4A won't sync. I tried a few of my other PVMs, and they won't find sync either.

I have an LM1881 circuit I built, and using it makes things work, but the picture is shifted to the right.

Any ideas on what might be wrong? I've tested the cable, and it seems to be fine...

[Anonymous No.2532308]

>>2532285
Have you tried turning it off and on again?

[Anonymous No.2532334]

>>2532308
Hahahah, would you believe I have :)

[Anonymous No.2532450]

>>2531948
Definitely an interlacing problem. Pokemon stadium switches between 480i in the menus and 240p in the battles.

No idea how to improve things, though.

[Anonymous No.2532460]

>>2532212
Multisync on a lot, rgb support, mounting options, scarcity

[Anonymous No.2532470]

>>2532460
They still produce them though at least, I feel like arcades are the last legitimate business consumers of CRTs, I can't think of any other area that actively actually NEEDS CRTs, most places who still use them only use them because their 70's CNC machine uses them or they just can't be arsed to upgrade

[Anonymous No.2532564]

Anyone know any decent retro related games that run in high-res mode? A lot of 6th gen stuff runs at 480, but I'm curious about stuff from the PS1 era and before.

I recently dug out Bloody Roar 2, and that shit looks like a fucking Dreamcast game I swear, it just looks so damn crisp and smooth for a PS1 game. I have a feeling that there were at least a few more games like this that looked amazing back in the day, but which have lost their edge in the age of modern emulation and HD flat panels.

[Anonymous No.2532567]

>>2532564
Tekken 3 looks fantastic, even if they did cheat the backgrounds. 1998 is when devs had the system figured out.

[Anonymous No.2532620]

>>2531582
I don't know. I've since found that it only happens with my Saturn and Dreamcast not the snes and mega drive. Also in my normal setup I have a powered splitter in between that must reintroduce the ground out whatever. I've decided to get svideo cables for both consoles which should make it a non problem.

[Anonymous No.2532630]

>>2531750
I've got the same monitor but mine is discoloured in one corner :( nice captures

[Anonymous No.2532674]

>>2532070
Op here it's sonic wings special on Saturn in Tate. Most of those games reuse the same backgrounds.

[Anonymous No.2532942]

Anyone know anything about this kind?

[Anonymous No.2533019]

>>2532942
Built in vcr = more problems

[Anonymous No.2533068]

>>2533019
I probably wouldn't use it. Just browsing craigslist for a crt

[Anonymous No.2533158]

>>2532942
its an trinitron so it should have a pretty good screen

[Anonymous No.2533586]

>>2531964
>>2532450
Don't actually know what kind of mod. Had someone else do it for me. It outputs CVid for Sync, but runs through a Sync Strike before splitting to the BVM and PEXHDCAP.

Phonedork's video mentioned that this model doesn't like sync strippers for some reason, but if it's just Pokemon Stadium getting screwed up, I'll live.

[Anonymous No.2533729]

Anyone ever tried this brand?

[Anonymous No.2533765]

>>2533729

Sanyo is a really decent brand when it comes to electronic furniture, and they made some really nice MSX computers (some models being quite popular among French MSX enthusiasts), but I don't know how their TV sets compare to other TV manufacturers.
Anyway, I've never heard about people complaining about nip TVs, but you should try to collect as many comments on this particular set as possible.

Anyway, while talking about Sanyo TVs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gamfCWtL6d8

[Anonymous No.2533839]

>>2533729
Bring batteries and test the remote.

I used to have a very similar Sanyo set for years and was happy with it.

[Anonymous No.2533845]

>>2533729
I think everyone had a cheap Sanyo CRT in the mid 2000s, at least where I live. They're good, but I'd look for one of these bad boys- they have fantastic image quality and a ridiculous number of inputs (i have 5 systems hooked up to mine)

[Anonymous No.2533881]

Found two of the only potentially decent TVs at a local thrift store with component inputs. Anyone know if these two are any good? Will they take 240p over component? Here's the first one- Toshiba 20af42

I never had the chance to test out either one. The best I can do is a soft-modded PS2 with a component cable for testing purposes. What games would be perfect for testing the picture quality? I was also thinking about picking up a Wii and modding it so I can try out the 240p Test Suite.

[Anonymous No.2533884]

>>2533881
And here's the second one- JVC AV-32WF47

[Anonymous No.2533887]

>>2533881
You should be able to find a DVD player at the thrift store you could test it with.

[Anonymous No.2533898]

>>2533887
>DVD player
Eh, I'd rather use a game console since that's primarily what I'm going to be using it with, unless there's something I didn't know about already.

[Anonymous No.2533904]

saw this at goodwill. Is it anything special?

[Anonymous No.2533925]

>>2533904
That would be perfect for Pong and the Magnavox Oddyssey.

[Anonymous No.2533929]

Ey yo Kya you got a Skype or something?

[Anonymous No.2533989]

>>2533729
Scroll up in thread anon.

[Anonymous No.2534046]

>tfw you have a PVM but your playstation is stuck on composite because your SCART cable is still in the mail

I want to try out SOTN but the composite is such ass.

[Anonymous No.2534073]

>>2533904

Well at least this monitor look rad as fuck.
As for the picture quality, just ask if you can see the inputs and try it yourself with one of your consoles.

[Anonymous No.2534293]

>>2533989

>>2533765
>>2533839
You guys think I should pick it up?

[Anonymous No.2534305]

Does anyone know what model of TV this is? It's free

[Anonymous No.2534317]

>>2534046
Settle, Petal :) Your SCART cable will arrive (& your breakout of some sort, i hope?) and things will go well for you.

[Anonymous No.2534507]

>>2534305
yes I totally know what that is from the tiny, grainy picture you posted.

I don't see a toshiba, samsung, or sony label so...
looks like a generic, late model, shadow mask unit. made in mexico most likely.
you're probably looking at s-video at the most.

for free, it's worth every penny.
skip it, find a sony.
hit up craigslist and type "trinitron"

[Anonymous No.2534656]

>>2534507
I have

[Anonymous No.2534698]

>>2534656
wew. found one about 30 minutes away for $35 or best offer. 32 inch. How heavy are these things?

[Anonymous No.2534703]

[Anonymous No.2534736]

I just got a Dell Trinitron UltraScan P991 for $5 off of Craigslist.

[Anonymous No.2534805]

>>2534698

I used to have one years ago when I was in my mid 20s. I lugged that thing down two flights of stairs and then about 50 yards to a dumpster.

Fucker was heavy but if you carry it with the screen facing you it's managable in short burst unless you're a scrawny fuck.

and for the sake of the curious, yes the 32" trinitron I threw out worked perfectly fine I just didn't want to move with it.

[Anonymous No.2535038]

>>2534698
They're around 180lb, and it's all on the screen side. You'll need a second person to move it.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2535291]

>>2534698
Depending on the specific model in question, 160-180lb.

I agree with what >>2534805 said. You can hypothetically manage slowly hoping it forward a few feet at a time by yourself, but realistically it's a two person job.

>>2533929
A search of KatKya or Kyadash should bring it up.

[Anonymous No.2535316]

>>2534293
I like mine.

[Anonymous No.2535321]

>>2534305
That looks like a Panasonic Tau. Its great. Get it.

[Anonymous No.2535872]

>>2534293

Ask if you could test it, if you like the set, the way it looks, the picture it gives, hen you can pick it if you want.

[Anonymous No.2535928]

>>2530865
turn down the focus dial on the flyback transformer. This of course ruins higher resolutions though

[Anonymous No.2535951]

>>2533884
that can't be a USB port.. is it?

[Anonymous No.2535957]

>>2535951

>2006

Then it is. Maybe for firmware upgrade or something like that.

[Anonymous No.2536182]

does anyone know any camera apps for android that have an anti banding option ?
the camera app that comes with the galaxy alpha is garbage and there's no roms for this phone
i've tried open camera but cant seem to find a setting for it

[Anonymous No.2536285]

>>2535951
My pc monitor from 2000 has a USB 1.0 hub too. But the service port is just RS232 I think.

[Anonymous No.2536489]

>>2534805
>carries a 32" trinitron by himself
Fucking Arnold over here.

[Anonymous No.2536503]

I lifted a 32" Sony xbr crt out of my trunk and up 3 steps last weekend. I'm surprised I didn't break the tv and/or myself.

[Anonymous No.2536530]

>>2508375
>105mb
what.

[Anonymous No.2536536]

>>2536530
its really easy to make gifs have huge filesizes

[Anonymous No.2536815]

>>2535951
It's USB, used for firmware upgrades. If you call into customer support with a problem that's not obviously hardware, they'll send you a flash drive with the latest firmware on it.

[Anonymous No.2537306]

>>2536503
man i have a 48kg BVM, and lifting that thing onto and off a table while i was trying to set things up nearly killed me. No fucking way would i try to move anything heavier, let alone if it was bigger too.

[Anonymous No.2537319]

made this trinitron logo today, couldn't find a high res trini logo, so here's one, thought this'd be the place to dump it.

[Anonymous No.2537364]

>>2536182
The AOSP camera on my S4 (running SlimKat) has an anti-banding option.

[Anonymous No.2537413]

>>2537319
Cool anon

[Anonymous No.2537427]

>>2537364
apk pls

[Anonymous No.2537447]

>>2532285
Solved the combined sync issue! Although now i'm having another problem.

For people on PC using 15kHz for emulation I've recommended Viletim's Sync Combiner before, but it looks like that was my problem! I removed the 820R resistor and my PVM's found sync again. Removing the diode killed things again, so i left it in. Not wanting to feed a 5.5VDC signal in, i added a 100uF cap in the line after the syncs are combined (+ve toward computer, -ve toward PVM), and that turns it into a 50mVDC level, and things work nicely. A larger cap would probably work, but i managed to fit everything into a VGA plug to keep it neat.

Now i'm trying to install crt_emudriver for Win7 onto a Toshiba Satellite with a Mobility HD 4250... and looking for solutions. Connecting a PVM gets nothing even resembling Sync. The LM1881 stripper circuit does nothing, nor does the above modified cable. I can't tell if crt_emudriver is actually installing or not (i should probably put my multimeter on the line and measure the frequency).

Also can't tell why i can't install XP 32 or 64 on this thing (Satellite L655D-S5093). Trying to install from disc either bluescreens or hangs, depending on the exact XP build.

[Anonymous No.2537457]

My grandparents have had this Hitachi CT2077B ever since I was a little kid and my family got ahold of it when they got a new TV. I recently moved into a new home and got to plug this thing in again. It only has composite, but it's definitely the cleanest picture I've ever seen on such a signal, and I love the level of color it has, too. Unfortunately, I haven't ever been able to find out any information about the TV model itself. All I can find online are store pages for remotes and links to manuals hidden behind paywalls.

[Anonymous No.2537470]

>>2537457
You're right, that's a nice picture. Must have been well made.

[Anonymous No.2537480]

>>2537470
>>2537457
Oh, and a consumer set won't have things live TVL listed in the manual. You might get some more options using the service menu code in the manual, but if it ain't broke...

Those paywall sites can be ok though. I've used owner-manuals.com a few times and the manuals have come through fine if a day later. If I were you i wouldn't bother in this case, unless you're planning to RGB-mod or something.

[Anonymous No.2537483]

>>2537457
You're right. That does look really nice, despite being composite.

[Anonymous No.2537515]

Why is that line there again?

Hooked up a PS2 to a PVM1354Q via Monster's cable for it. Only hooked up the R, G, and B cables. Is there a sync cable I'm unaware of?

[Anonymous No.2537532]

>>2537515
Are you using component? That's not RGB. You can get RGB out of component cables, but only if you have one of the cheap cables that has a fourth wire for composite.

[Anonymous No.2537545]

More shots

[Anonymous No.2537546]

One more

[Anonymous No.2537554]

>>2537515
PS2 outputs sync on green iirc, your pvm should handle it just fine

[Anonymous No.2537563]

>>2537515
You can get one of those cheap component cables that has a composite on it too. Run the composite to the sync port.

[Anonymous No.2537571]

I currently don't have space for a CRT but I was wondering if theres anything I can do to make my dreamcast not look awful on a 1080p ips monitor.

[Anonymous No.2537609]

>>2537571
get a vga box?

[Anonymous No.2537942]

>>2537554
PS2 also outputs component, and the 1354Q will handle that as well.

[Anonymous No.2538075]

>>2537942
Remember to set the video mode in the PS2's system menu though.

[Anonymous No.2538214]

>>2537447

[Anonymous No.2538225]

>>2538214
oops, the diode should read 1N4148

[Anonymous No.2538231]

>>2537554
PS2 only outputs RGsB for Linux. The rest of the time it uses separate sync.

>>2537515 you need either a component + composite combo cable (composite as sync) or a custom one. SCART with a breakout cable would probably be fine too.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2538291]

>>2538231
>for Linux
Or when put into progressive scan while in RGB mode.

[Anonymous No.2538336]

Just checked for what CRTs are available near me on the online classifeds. All I can find is a 21" Apple Studio Display (the rest were either shit or too far from me).

Anyone here know much about them? I particularly want to know if I can do 3840x240. Not being able to do that would be a massive dealbreaker.

[Anonymous No.2538342]

>>2538336

Those are Diamondtron rebrands, but you'll need a DE-15 <-> ADC port adapter to use it on a PC though.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2538351]

>>2538342
There's a 17in model that uses a Diamondtron and ADC, but the 21in models should all be VGA+Genuine Trinitrons.

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2538412]

Does anyone know if Euro SCART can be used on a Japanese Saturn? I've come under the severe need for a white Saturn.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2538419]

>>2538412
Only difference on the AV pinout between regions is PAL consoles give 9VDC on the pin NTSC models have csync. As long as you have the cable wired up correctly, why wouldn't it? Even more so if you don't need switching or csync straight from the console.

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2538463]

>>2538419
Actually I don't even know what I'm thinking anymore. I have whatever SCART cables work with NA consoles. I guess since they are both NTSC it should be fine on the JP console.

[Anonymous No.2538473]

>>2538463
JP-21 != EuroSCART
I don't know how exactly, but plugging one into the other is harmful for the console.

[Anonymous No.2538534]

>>2538214
I recommend just spending $20 or so and buying an Extron RGB interface. I have the 201 RXI and its great. It can combine sync or put it on green and allow you to adjust the picture up and down and intensity.

[Anonymous No.2538603]

[Anonymous No.2538605]

Anyone have any guides on how to make your own SCART cables? I need something to do.

[Anonymous No.2538619]

>>2538605
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

[Anonymous No.2538705]

Been trying to discharge my Amstrad CPC monitor for the past 30 minutes, but while doing it, I don't see any reaction from the tube and/or the anode button Is it normal or that means it was already discharged?
My discharging device does work (I've tested it's line continuity with a multimeter).

[Anonymous No.2538707]

>>2538619
What an awesome resource. Thanks anon.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2538715]

>>2538473
That applies to the display end of the cable. It can be harmful because you can send switching voltages along lines they're not supposed to and vice-versa.

Aside from the aforementioned PAL/NTSC difference, the console side of the cable would be the same regardless of whether it was wired for JP21 or SCART.

[QuiZNo !!2TML71FJz69 No.2538720]

Found this on the topic.
>So you do not need a Japanese 21 pin cable for a Japanese console.
>http://www.ebay.com/gds/JP-21-pin-Japanese-21-pin-vs-SCART-/10000000178332144/g.html

[Anonymous No.2538813]

Both schematics aren't good.
>>2537447
Now with 75 ohms at the end there will be 0.419V when VSync is high. The (silicon) diode is ineffective because it has a forward voltage of about 0.7V and can't pull that 0.419V to lower voltage.
What could work better would be to split the resistor to 2x 470ohm resistors and attach the diode to the middle point. With that you get 0.369V (close enough correct sync amplitude of about 0.3V), 0.094V which should be close enough to 0V. Also add 220µF capacitor at the end with it's + pointing to the GPU.
>>2538214
This will strain the sync outputs of the GPU. The output current could be limited to 20mA which isn't enough break the diode and it varies from card to card but forcing a (logic) output to let it's maximum current flow can ruin and break it in the long run.
But at least a AC coupling capacitor is there which is absent in the other schematic.

>>2538619
Beware, the PAL SNES cable schematic is not so correct.
There are no 12V but somewhat unstabilized 9V from the bridge rectifier which could trigger 16:9/4:3 mode switching on some TVs randomly and it's always present even if the SNES is turned off.
Also there are DC offsets on all video outputs which "should" be removed with 220µF after the 75ohms resistor to ground, but in practice that caused sync glitches (on the composite line) if certain images/patterns are being displayed. However this issue is very dependent on the TV and it's sync/deflection circuit and the standard LM1881 circuit doesn't help at all unless a amplifier with correct gain is used to feed the LM1881.

>>2538705
>Is it normal or that means it was already discharged?
Both. I didn't heard anything when discharged my Trinitron either, then I slipped my finger thru the anode cap, touched the metal and didn't felt anything painful at all.
Are you sure that you properly shorted it to the chassis ground?

[Anonymous No.2538821]

>>2538813

Yup, after fixing it I tested the continuity with my multimeter.

[Anonymous No.2538829]

>>2538813
>Are you sure that you properly shorted it to the chassis ground?

Yes, I tested the shorting device (screwdriver + copper cable fixed to the chassis) with my multimeter so I can be sure. Also, the monitor have been off for like 1 or 2 months.

[Kya !kDashing02 No.2538845]

>>2538813
>but in practice that caused sync glitches (on the composite line) if certain images/patterns are being displayed. However this issue is very dependent on the TV and it's sync/deflection circuit and the standard LM1881 circuit doesn't help at all unless a amplifier with correct gain is used to feed the LM1881.
I wonder if that could be what happened with my Megaview. Had some odd scrambled sync at start up with a couple of games, and the monitor usually won't display anything if incorrect/no sync is fed.

Super Game Boy and I believe SMRPG are two that it happened with.

[Anonymous No.2538878]

>>2533904
Seattle Goodwill at South Dearborn and Rainier huh? I saw this there about a week ago, but passed when I saw it didn't have S-video or Component/RGB inputs.

[Anonymous No.2538938]

So, I have a moderate problem with my RCA 20F420T.

I got into the service menu to fix an issue with the picture, which I sort of fixed (I think I need to open the thing to readjust some internal stuff, as nothing in the menu seems to fix the issue completely) but now not only can I not exit the menu, there's no sound coming from the set.

Pic related, it's a 240p grid on the set. The whole picture appears to be skewed like 5 degrees clockwise.

[Anonymous No.2538980]

Are there any test programs that I can download to a DVD and play it on my DVD Player to configure the picture and stuff?
Picture unrelated.

[Anonymous No.2539021]

>>2538938
Commencing photo dump of the inside, in case it helps.
This sticker is on the left side of the tube when you're facing the back of the set.

[Anonymous No.2539024]

>>2539021
This sticker is on the right side of the tube.

[Anonymous No.2539026]

>>2539024
This is a pic of the back of the circuit board on the electron gun.

[Anonymous No.2539029]

>>2539026
This looks to be the only identifying sticker on the main PCB.

[Anonymous No.2539031]

>>2538980
Even better: There's one you can burn to any CD based gaming system called the 240p Test Suite:

https://youtu.be/nUdfPdM1mw0

[Anonymous No.2539036]

>>2539029
This is the only monolithic IC I see on the board. This is the text I read off of it:

13-tnm123-01M01
8873CSANG6HA2
m'SIA. 6TAKZS65

[Anonymous No.2539039]

>>2539036
Here's a board overview, from the back.

[Anonymous No.2539046]

>>2539039
From the right side.

[Anonymous No.2539049]

>>2539046
From the left side.

[Anonymous No.2539053]

>>2539049
What I think are the tuning rings on the tube.

[Anonymous No.2539069]

>>2539053
There are 3 of these black wedge things that I don't know what they're used For.

[Anonymous No.2539079]

>>2539036
>13-tnm123-01M01
Same guy here, this appears to be the same IC.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/8873csang6ha2-13-tnm123-01m01/1046784411.html

[Anonymous No.2539106]

>>2538980
Idunno if 240p suite has a DVD menu, but chances are you'll have some homebrew that will work?

[Anonymous No.2539116]

Do you guys know where/how I could buy a 25" CRT in western Europe? Tri-frenquencies would be best, since it's for my arcade cabinet.

[Anonymous No.2539129]

>>2538829
Yeah, I would say it's safe to work with.

>>2538845
What I said only applies to the early PAL SNES which has radically different video circuits.
I suspect that the sync tip amplitudes are too weak or that the color burst is too strong, I think that the video encoder+amps are most likely to blame.

>>2538938
>The whole picture appears to be skewed like 5 degrees clockwise.
And most likely you have to deal with it as this is a flat shadow mask CRT, I highly doubt that it can get better than this.
You could push your luck with rotating the yoke (which rotates the whole image) and then you have to readjust geometry, convergence and purity all over again.
Better try to exit the menu now and leave it like this.

>>2539053
Convergence and purity.
>>2539069
Corner convergence.

[Anonymous No.2539158]

>>2539129
How would I go about safely rotating the yoke?

And I can't exit the menu is the issue, I've tried everything I can think of.

[Anonymous No.2539221]

Does anybody know what company made this TV? I suspect either Sylvania or Panasonic but I've tried a bunch of Universal Remote codes to no success.

[Anonymous No.2539224]

>>2539158
>How would I go about safely rotating the yoke?
Rubber gloves, long time and experience. Rotating the stiff yoke (the clamp was fully loose) on my Trinitron was similar to open a jammed glass door, one clumsy mistake and it's broken.
Knowing how exactly how the CRT is constructed and works is the most important, but in the end it's next to impossible to make it 100% perfect.
And keep in mind that the earth magnet influence on a CRT is the most weak if the screen faces to either east or south, if adjustments are done without considering this then the convergence and purity could get quite bad if you move the set somewhere else facing in a totally different direction.

>And I can't exit the menu is the issue, I've tried everything I can think of.
On one of the first results on google:
>You will now have some information on the screen: "P0 V0"
>To actually be able to change these values, you must push [Vol +] on the remote so the information reads V76. Then pushing on the Channel +/- will change the "P" value.
Did you tried this in reverse?

[Anonymous No.2539226]

>>2539221
I think SV2000 was the company. I had one. I got it from a supermarket for about $70. It was pretty nifty tho.

[Anonymous No.2539246]

>>2539224
Whatever TV that's from isn't mine, as the menu I was in looked nothing like that.

I did eventually get out of it. I undid every setting that I originally set to improve the picture, power cycled the fucker, and now the menu's gone.

So I probably shouldn't do the rotation is what you're saying? Or should I place something in the way of a non-breakable part of the yoke so that if I apply too much pressure, there's a stopping point preventing me from breaking it.

[Anonymous No.2539248]

>>2539224
Also, is this a somewhat legitimate guide?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2vdGEPPOMg

[Anonymous No.2539254]

>>2539129

Okay. Already dismantled the whole monitor (it was the only way to isolate the transformer and amplification board)), but thanks for the confirmation.

[Anonymous No.2539343]

>>2538938
This guy again, after getting out of the menu, I went back in and was successfully able to fix a couple of things.
Pic related is the grid now. I'm thinking that the yoke needs rotating and that something needs to be done about the top right corner, what I'm not sure.

[Anonymous No.2539347]

>>2539343
This pic doesn't show it particularly well, but the geometry almost slants inward toward the top. The top and bottom lines are also offset, but they're offset in a rotated sort of way.

What I think is wrong with the thing is a minor issue in the top left corner, the whole thing needs to be turned a little bit counter clockwise (from the front perspective), and the big issue in the top right corner needs fixing. It's almost like there's a magnet drawing the top right corner in closer to the center of the screen, but the purity still seems fine.

[Anonymous No.2539351]

>>2539347
Final pic from me, this one shows the side issues a bit better.

[Anonymous No.2539483]

Really considering an arcade monitor as my endgame CRT, what should I get?

[Anonymous No.2539587]

>>2538813
TY for that, I'll give it a go with the two 470Rs. Will a smaller cap work in the line? Say, 100uF? Again, i'm trying to make this jerry-rigging fit into a DB9 backshell already full of coax :)

I should ask though, where is that V-Ync signal voltage you mentioned from? The 0.419V. The DC offset of the VGA sync lines is over 5V, but that's normal and is expected by arcade monitors anyway, isn't it? (I'm using a PVM, though, i understand that bit, and realise i want to reduce the current.)

[Anonymous No.2539619]

>>2539587
actually, I might only have a 100uF or a 330uF...

[Anonymous No.2539645]

I don't know alot about CRT screens but i bought a old CRT TV for $7 from my grandfather because he got a 32" LCD screen for free as a bingo prize and i stopped using my old TV because it started to display only a horizontal white line but sound was fine.

The image quality looks bad and blurry unless i lower all the contrast but then it looks dark and bad.
Also the screen "Vibrates".
Should i just get rid of it?

[Anonymous No.2539657]

>>2539645

[Anonymous No.2539664]

>>2539657

[Anonymous No.2539672]

>>2539664

[Anonymous No.2539749]

Am I doing this right?

[Anonymous No.2539783]

>>2539645
>>2539657
>>2539664
>>2539672
>>2539749
Nice pictures dude. The vibrating is maybe the v/h hold being set wrong? Sometimes theres a knob on the back you can change it with?. If not it will be inside.

[Anonymous No.2539792]

>>2539783
That last one wasn't him, it was me, thanks though

[Anonymous No.2539863]

Was just researching L5s and came across this https://forums.creativecow.net/thread/21/855560 :O

Anyone know the difference between the PVM 14L5 and the D14L5A?

[Anonymous No.2539870]

>>2539672
Probably gonna hate me for this but I can't see the colour split on my screen no matter how close I get.

[Anonymous No.2539890]

>>2508124
nights on a white saturn
never reala the end
knuckles i've written
sonic's meaning to send

[Anonymous No.2539897]

>>2539749
>What is this
>make the image fullscreen and go to the other side of the room
>instantly figure it out

Weird to actually see how it works first hand I don't know

[Anonymous No.2540051]

>>2539863
Identical, but for the Aus region they changed the code. The 20L5 does the same.

Auschoice, again?

[Anonymous No.2540073]

>>2540051
yeah

[Anonymous No.2540098]

>>2539890
Probably two people in the thread who get this.

[Anonymous No.2540379]

Can someone post an example of jail bars? I can only find one pic online. I think I have that problem

[Anonymous No.2540408]

>message some guy about a pvm he was selling
>get a message back a week later, we start working out the details
>suddenly emails me and says he's not free for the day we agreed, and will email me back when he has a better idea of his schedule
>hasn't emailed back in 2 weeks

[Anonymous No.2540482]

>>2538291
That's... Odd, but thanks for the info. I've never tried prog scan in RGB.

[Anonymous No.2540510]

>>2538813
>>2539587

Ok, so with the components i had at hand, i managed to slip a single 330R resistor in after the diode, and then two 100uF caps in parallel. This produces a 0.90mA AC signal current when open, and about 0.857mA with the 75R terminator. Reckon that's ok? (I tried a larger, single resistor in the same spot, but the PVM couldn't find sync.)

You're right in that it needed a larger load somewhere. I knew that, but did things in a bit of a rush, I suppose. Added to which I don't have the elec eng to get very far with calcs...

thx for the help.

[Anonymous No.2540554]

/vr/ i've got CRT fever. I got my first PVM, a 14m2mdu for mainly playing ssbm and recording component video in 480i.
I got it for about $80 total because someone thought it was broken.
I am kind of tempted to buy a 20m4u that someone has listed about 40 minutes away from me. But he wants $200 for it and is firm. He says its in good working condition. Any strats to try and haggle him down or is he asking for a fair price?

ps can anyone tell me if theres a way to check hours used on a pvm?

[Anonymous No.2540561]

>>2540554
>a way to check hours used on a pvm?
No, and that's way too much money. Just be patient, you'll find one. It's not like they're super rare.

[Anonymous No.2540564]

>>2540561
Thanks anon, im just super worked up about my 14m2mdu, and crave more scan lines. I should consider myself lucky.
Some guy in the area was selling a 14m2u for $99 NEW in box but that was only around for 3 days.

[Anonymous No.2540573]

>>2540554
I paid 200 dollars for a BVM 2010P...

[Anonymous No.2540579]

>>2540573
HONESTLY THATS TOO MUCH ANON-KUN, BUT IF YOU'RE HAPPY, MORE POWERADE TO&77777777777€77777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777777

[Anonymous No.2540582]

>>2522007
my fucking dick

[Anonymous No.2540763]

>>2522007
I'm jelly beyond believe holy fuck

[Anonymous No.2540771]

>>2522007
model number?

[Anonymous No.2540773]

Panzer dragoon saga on bvm. Sorry about phone camera/boring subject

[Anonymous No.2540774]

>>2540773

[Anonymous No.2540840]

>>2540773
You playing a bootleg or do you really own that game?

[Anonymous No.2541025]

Is there a VGA to HDMI adapter out there? And if so, do they work?

[Anonymous No.2541030]

>>2541025
I have a VGA to DVI one, but it's a pain because the monitor keeps getting static-y. I'm sure it's a fault of the adapter, I don't have an issues when putting the VGA cable by itself in the port.

[Anonymous No.2541056]

>>2541025
Extron makes an RGB/VGA/Component to DVI adapter that you could feed to HDMI easily.

http://www.extron.com/product/product.aspx?id=rgbdvi300

I don't have any firsthand experience with this thing, but I have other Extron equipment that does 15khz RGB to VGA that's solid and Extron has a good reputation for high quality equipment.

Cheap adapters will be shit, but I'm not sure if the Extron is worth the cost to you. There's one going on Ebay for US$100 or best offer right now.

[Anonymous No.2541064]

>>2541056
Damn

[Anonymous No.2541074]

>>2540840
Burnt copy, looks the same though

[Anonymous No.2541130]

>>2540771
Eizo F980

only 0.20mm tube ever made afaik.

[Anonymous No.2541194]

>>2540098
Oh stop, we're all old fucks here.
I'm only 28, but I have decent taste for music

[Anonymous No.2541236]

>>2540771
good luck finding one though, took me several years.

[Anonymous No.2541246]

Is a Sony Trinitron 28WS2 a good TV? I don't know if there's any HDCRT bullshit going on in this model.

[Anonymous No.2541493]

crt is nice

[Anonymous No.2541732]

I'm testing out a recently-acquired Toshiba 14AF44, and I'm not seeing a big difference between composite output and S-video on my TV. This is true of both Dreamcast and SNES. I don't think the cables are a factor as the SNES cables are made by Nintendo. Is the difference less dramatic than is often claimed, could my TV handle composite particularly well, or handle S-Video particularly poorly?

Pic related, though I'm not sure how helpful it will be.

[Anonymous No.2541754]

So, this might be a dumb question, but how DO you get 240p output from a PC? I've heard about CRT emudriver, but the drivers won't install despite the card I'm using being an older Radeon. I can force the laptop's main screen to be 320x240, but the TV output is still 480i. Pretty obvious, since there are no scanlines.