/vr/ - Retro Games

File: 42 KB, 684x629, modmario.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Repair/Mod General - GameTechWiki Anonymous Wed Feb 18 14:45:48 2015 No.2241620 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Discuss any mods or repairs you're working on here!

The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

Old thread: >>2176501

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 18 20:44:47 2015 No.2242332 Reposting here: Does anyone know of a list of GB carts with save batteries, and what size battery each game has? I need to replace the battery in my Wario Land.

Anonymous Wed Feb 18 22:34:04 2015 No.2242537

>>2242332
Probably a 2025 battery. Get one with tabs and solder it in if you want it to work right. If it has a 1616 size battery you can still use a 2025 in it, I've done it before on pokemon yellow.
I don't know of any list of battery save gameboy games, but all the pokemon games, donkey kong games, zelda and mario games have batteries.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 19 09:10:19 2015 No.2243154 File: 3.33 MB, 2432x4320, IMG_20150219_080350301.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2241620 For those looking for an Electronics Contacts Cleaner/Lube check out pic related.

Anonymous Fri Feb 20 08:35:07 2015 No.2245183
File: 277 KB, 1600x1200, SEGA-Master-System-II-Power-Base-PAL-014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hi guys, I used a multi tester on both my official pal territory sega power adapters and they both read as 15 volts when they're only supposed to be 9v?!? I have a crappy replacement adapter i got from ebay that I never use and that reads as 9v. What's happening and is it safe to use these adapters? (They work as I have been using them with my jap megadrive and pal SMS2 up until I tested them.) One adapter is the one pictured the other official one is slightly different but mostly the same.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 20 08:48:18 2015 No.2245197 >>2245183 Should also mention I use it with my av famicom and super fam as well.

Anonymous Fri Feb 20 09:45:56 2015 No.2245262

>>2245183
>>2245197
It is safe to use, these are just classic transformers with a simple bridge rectifier and ripple rejection capacitor.
The reason why you measure overvoltage is because you voltmeter has a very high input resistance (usually about 10gigaohms), now if you would put a very huge (rated for >10W) 9 ohms resistor on the output then 1A would flow through it and it will get hot because it turns 9W power into heat and then you would measure about 9V, more or less.

Anonymous Fri Feb 20 23:11:47 2015 No.2246656

Anyone suggest a good reference for Game Gear repair, FAQs? Or any tips from someone who has successfully refurb'd?

I recently picked up a really clean GG that was not operable. Powers on, display powers up but basically displays blank.

Kinda suspect that the little bastard needs a full cap replacement (logic board seems to have the plague).

This is my first run on a Game Gear, anyone have any experience with them?

Anonymous Fri Feb 20 23:20:32 2015 No.2246683

>>2245262
the reason why the voltage reads higher is because these are unregulated power supplies. nothing more.

the voltage regulator is inside the console. if you can open the console up, plug the adapter in, then turn the console on with a cart in the slot and check voltage at the input under load. it'll read at about 9-10V (or whatever it is supposed to read at)

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 03:43:18 2015 No.2247051

>>2246656
I've done a few and they all need full capacitor replacement.
If you have a good soldering iron it's not that bad. There are videos on YouTube and lots of posts online about the process.
You can even buy pre made kits on ebay, but it's usually cheaper to buy the caps from Mouser or digi key online.
There is a 1 chip and a 2 chip version of the game gear and they have a different number of caps, so you have to open it before you order the capacitors.
Also you have to watch out for clearance when you install them so the damn thing goes back together again.

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 04:31:19 2015 No.2247097
File: 2.51 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150221_192318[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have tried to do this mod http://mdpal60.net/wiki/megadrive/regionmod/start which uses a since 3 pole switch to choose between region/hz settings on my VA4 Japanese MD1. Before I started a cap was between either side of jp2. I have done the mod as shown in the photo but not with the expected results. The jap setting is jap/60 hz, the middle setting which is supposed to be US/60 hz is also jap/60 hz, and the english/50 hz setting shorts out the system (at least it says no sync on my pvm which recognises both pal and ntsc)

Have I done something wrong/is the guide wrong/ or is the jap md1 different from the euro/us models when it comes to jp 1-4?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 04:39:18 2015 No.2247107 >>2247097 I had difficulty with this myself but i had to cut the traces to some of the jumpers and the article you linked to actually mentions this but i see you havent done it,you have to get a knife and sever the connection.

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 04:46:49 2015 No.2247116

>>2246656
Can you see any kind of image at all,even if you tilt the angle? sounds like a bad cartridge connection to start with,clean the cartridge and try again.

The caps can go in the display making it hard to see unless you tilt it but im not aware of it wiping the display out completely.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 05:01:01 2015 No.2247140 >>2247107 The white lines between them?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 05:30:07 2015 No.2247169 >>2247140 I say this because there doesn't seem to be any green trace under the white lines just dark green.

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 10:37:07 2015 No.2247501

>>2247051
Cool, thanks. Looks like it might be hard to come by those low profile flat caps, I've seen others doing it but just standard tube caps should work fine I guess?

>>2247116
Yeah there is some image displayed, but it is similar to a NES with a bad pin connection. Bars and solid colors.

I'm gonna do the cap replacement and see if That takes care of the problem. I'll move on to connector and display if that doesn't work

Thanks y'all

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 11:20:20 2015 No.2247554 >>2247140 Yes if you look at the website again you will see the lines are broken on the diagrams

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 11:21:26 2015 No.2247557 >>2247501 Garbled graphics is not good,i think its fucked.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 16:19:46 2015 No.2248074 >>2247097 this mod with only 1 switch can cause problems, especialy with mega cd. For some, it didn't work at all. If you still want to use only 1 switch, you should use a DPDT on-on-on, so you have acces to all 3 regions with proper wiring.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 16:24:08 2015 No.2248080 >>2247097 >>2248074 also, yeah the 2 original traces must be cut in all cases

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 16:32:51 2015 No.2248087
File: 32 KB, 640x512, 557ba4d79999.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I just recently purchased a copy of NBA Jam for the Genesis, from the Goodwill. It is brand new, case and manual, label is perfect, and the pins show no wear whatsoever, yet when I pop it into my Genesis, I get these vertical black and blue lines. It eventually works if I repeatedly press the reset button, but I am curious as to what it causing this.

My Genesis is a Model 1.

Pic related but not mine: It is exactly what is happening to my game.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 18:56:06 2015 No.2248362 >>2248080 It's just that in all the picture examples I see you can see the connection between JP 2 & 3 whereas mine just has the dark green under all of it

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 19:25:20 2015 No.2248412 >>2248087 "brand new" what? Was it sealed? Its probably dirty contacts. Just take it apart and clean in with compound or an eraser.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 21:03:43 2015 No.2248595 >>2247051 I just bought a factory sealed GG just to see if the caps go to shit all on their own no matter what. They do.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 21:33:31 2015 No.2248635 >>2247557 yeah you're right, its at least partially fucked. hopefully not FUBAR. it'll give me something to tinker with at least. just refurb'd a sega cd so i'm in need of another project

Anonymous Sat Feb 21 21:37:13 2015 No.2248646

>>2248595
haha good lord. apparently those flat caps were shit anyway and were being used in camcorders at the time. from what i read the damn things were so shoddy they were blowing out in the camcorders within months, not years. no wonder the GGs are all btfo

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 21 22:28:10 2015 No.2248792 >>2248595 The electrolytes in those things were not a very good formula. They'll degrade and eat away at the cap housing even if you never push current into them.

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 00:52:29 2015 No.2249009

So I'm looking to mod a toaster NES for expansion sound and it occurs to me that you could just plug an edge connector into the expansion port underneath to bridge a resistor across pins 3 & 9 without ever opening up the console. Does such a thing already exist or will I just have to chop up a piece of protoboard?

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 00:53:32 2015 No.2249010

>>2247097
Ok so I scraped the traces and everyone was right that worked. US and Jap work no problems but Pal only shows a black and white image (both on composite and my S-video mod) on my PVM and a crazy rainbow stripes picture on my big LCD in NTSC mode (Australian TV). My pal snes boots up as normal so it's not the tvs. A reminder that I performed this mod on a jap megadrive 1. What might be causing this?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 01:03:07 2015 No.2249029 >>2243154 What's wrong with isopropyl alcohol?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 01:10:24 2015 No.2249043 >>2249029 Contact cleaner is more thorough and lubricates without interfering with conductivity.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 02:27:15 2015 No.2249124 >>2248362 you might not see it because it might be thinner and thus hidden under that white paint stripe. but it's there

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 02:55:59 2015 No.2249137 >>2248635 It's caps, and use normal electrolytic capacitors when you fix it. Surface mount caps aren't worth it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 16:09:33 2015 No.2250241 >>2249029 >>2249043 I work for a multimillion dollar electronics company and we clean all our boards with 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol Just saying. Fun fact: We had one main board we ran through the dishwasher after populating, but that was years ago.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 16:15:56 2015 No.2250265 >>2249010 The console you have doesn't have a PAL encoder. You'll need to use RGB SCART.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 16:17:02 2015 No.2250268 >>2248595 Do you have a pic?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 17:12:01 2015 No.2250416 >>2250241 nothing is wrong with isopropyl provided it is high enough concentration (>90%). even at lower concentrations it is fine, it evaporates quickly. more on actual cleaning of PCBs: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/PCB_Cleaning_101

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 18:35:00 2015 No.2250631 >>2250265 Is this atypical of Jap mega drives?

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 18:46:07 2015 No.2250654

>>2250241
>I work for a multimillion dollar electronics company and we clean all our boards with 99.8% Isopropyl Alcohol

What does that have to do with contact cleaner? You use contact cleaner to clean out and protect your pins & switches, not as a PCB wash during manufacturing.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 19:13:38 2015 No.2250687 >>2250631 >Jap Japan uses NTSC, not PAL, so I would assume so

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 19:52:11 2015 No.2250739 My mega drive has a line of garbage pixels at the very bottom on my HDTV. I've done some quick Googling.. this is actually normal, right? It's very annoying.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 19:58:53 2015 No.2250752 >>2250687 It's just that nobody mentioned this in any modding tutorials I read. Is it the same when converting a SNES?

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:18:57 2015 No.2250776

I'm working on cleaning up a pretty dirty toaster NES, and I'm trying to open it up to get to the 72-pin connector but some of the bottom screws on the exterior are really screwed in tight. I'm using a no.1 phillips head screwdriver, and even with WD40 I still can't get them loose.
Am I out of luck?

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:27:43 2015 No.2250791

>>2250752
>It's just that nobody mentioned this in any modding tutorials I read.

I imagine no one mentioned it because 50/60hz mods are usually done by Europeans, where SCART is almost completely universally used.

Megadrive will need an extra fix if you want it to display composite on both settings after a 50/60hz mod. You have to add the required crystal to the video encoder and set up the switch so it uses that when switched into an alternate mode.

This is perfectly normal.

Simplest fix is to just use RGB Scart, that way you can also cut the colour subcarrier input to the video encoder, which greatly reduces jailbars on a model 1 Megadrive.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:27:46 2015 No.2250792 >>2250776 Don't you need the special drill bit?

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:29:23 2015 No.2250796

If something bumps into my Genesis, or it get's rattled, it freezes. It's a full board Model 2. A friend of mine just recently purchased a Model 2, and his does the same thing, in fact, his cat knocked an empty water bottle off the table and it fell on the system and it froze and went black.

Are they just getting really old or what?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:32:18 2015 No.2250802 >>2250792 I don't think so, they look like standard phillips head screws.

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 20:35:29 2015 No.2250809

>>2250241
>I work for a multimillion dollar electronics company
So does my gardener. He trims hedges for them during the week and me on the weekend. I don't advise taking PCB leaning advice from him, or anyone else who offers identical credentials and just parrots PCB cleaning memes.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 21:02:09 2015 No.2250872 >>2250791 lol I live in Australia with the worst of both worlds - no scart and pal Do euroscart cables work with japanese md1s?

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 21:20:34 2015 No.2250905 >>2250792 toaster(the console itself) uses normal screws

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 22:29:33 2015 No.2251034 >>2249137 Cool thx

Anonymous Sun Feb 22 22:37:18 2015 No.2251043

>>2250776
Torque son, you need torque.

Honestly it may be that corrosion on the screws has degraded the beds enough that they are cemented. If you have access to a small power drill try that. If you're lucky you'll get the screws to budge. If not, you'll probably break the anchors and possibly damage the shell.

Yeah it's kinda tricky. Best of luck

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 23:29:47 2015 No.2251112 >>2250776 Try this: Put the screwdriver in the screw. Get a decently sized wrench. Grab the handle of the screwdriver (with it still in the screw) with the wrench, and then turn the screwdriver using the wrench.

>>	Anonymous Sun Feb 22 23:34:27 2015 No.2251121 >>2251112 Use pliers if wrech isn't handy, vise grips if possible

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 23 08:46:57 2015 No.2251664 File: 649 KB, 2698x897, 20150223_143926.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Finally, took me a while.

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 09:20:03 2015 No.2251690
File: 1.41 MB, 2322x4128, 999.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2250654
We use 99.9% (I typoed the 99.8 earlier) to clean all our boards, as I've said. I used the word 'boards' as a general term for electronics installed on a pcb. Whether it's pins or switches, boards after populating or a repair we get in...
"Contact cleaner", a cleaning agent used on contacts. That's what we use our isopropyl alcohol for.

>>2250809
>just parrots PCB cleaning memes
Since when is using the proper cleaning solution a meme? I've been around /vr/ since it's inception and any time isoalcohol comes up it's letting fools like you know it's the best to use.
Then again, you're both just trolling faggots on an canadian imagination board.

Most people here on /vr/ would be happy to know what the professionals in the field use, I was providing that information.

pic related, the 99.9% we use

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 18:56:06 2015 No.2252439

I have a SNES that had a blown fuse come my way. I replaced the fuse and now it has a slight green tint too everything. It's most obvious on black screens because they are dark green instead of black. I checked another SNES with the same cables & same game and it's fine. I've tried cleaning the pins inside & out with no change. I've also tried adjusting that screw on the top right of the board that makes it black & white and that changed nothing.

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 20:02:00 2015 No.2252584

>>2251690
It's been a meme since people like you started calling it "the proper cleaning solution". Don't get me wrong. It has it's place in cleaning. But it is not "the proper cleaning solution" in many situations. Anyone who actually works for a serious manufacturing or repair company knows this.

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 20:34:56 2015 No.2252646

>>2252584

IPC610/7711/7721-fag here.

99.9% Isopropyl is the shit.

Solvent flux removers eat conformal coatings, low density plastics, and evaporate too fucking fast to be useful unless it's just spot cleaning after rework.

Do a bunch of large-connector SMT rework? Maybe fluxing for solder pot rework? Good luck cleaning that shit up with Vigon EFM, MicroCare ProClean, Techspray Fluxoff, etc. You're going to make a huge fucking mess and end up with white residue all the fuck over the place, which fails class 1, 2, and 3 assembly standards (unless no-clean flux).

Never mind it just looks like shit, assembly standards aside. Take some pride in your work!

Though I won't agree you should be cleaning edge connectors with it (that's what pink erasers are for), cleaning up solder rework with 99.9% IPA is by far the best way to go about it.

All of this, of course, completely moot if you're working with water-soluble flux. If you don't clean the fuck out of that WHILE limiting your work zone (or DI/Solvent Trap/etc wash it like you properly should) it's going to do hilariously not-fun things to your PCB. Then again, you're a home hobbyist, why the fuck are you using OA/Water-Soluble/Halide fluxes?!

FWIW, cleaning up small areas with the various clean-up solvents is nice and quick don't get me wrong, but why in the fuck is a home hobbyist spending the $$$ on expensive, fume-heavy cleaning solvents when 99.9% is fucking cheap and does a better job in that kind of environment.

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 21:43:20 2015 No.2252810

>>2251690

I don't really care what you use to hose down your boards with, populated or not. It's not relevant to the convenience of using contact cleaner on old consoles.

We just need to clean a few edge connector pins or inside of an enclosed switch with minimal hassle. We use spray-on contact cleaner on old/dirty contacts because it's a penetrating displacer.

You don't have to take anything apart, scrub, use copious amounts or even wipe it up after applying it. it also leaves a lubricating and protective yet non-interfering film (connecting contacts easily push through it) on the metal.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 23 21:44:37 2015 No.2252812 >>2252439 Well bear in mind that whatever blew the fuse may have damaged something else in the machine. Fuses are for saving you from electrocution. They don't necessarily save the device too.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 23 22:01:10 2015 No.2252853 >>2252646 >home hobbyist Well there's yer problem And there are still plenty of cases where isopropyl isn't the best thing for the job for home hobbyists.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 23 22:44:11 2015 No.2252903 >>2251664 You could go to Amazon and buy a brand new pair of composite cables for that Model 1 Genesis for $1.70.

>>	Anonymous Mon Feb 23 22:53:29 2015 No.2252912 >>2252903 Why would you with S-video?

Anonymous Mon Feb 23 22:59:44 2015 No.2252918

>>2252912
Well he didn't do an S-Video mod, he did a Model 2 A/V mod. Those cables are just as common as they are for the Model 1, so unless his original A/V port kicked the bucket, then it was a pointless mod.

If the latter is the case then yes, if he had to mod it to fix it, then I personally would have just gone with an S-Video mod myself.

But unless I absolutely have to, I don't see there being a reason to, as the picture quality isn't improved enough for me to justify doing the mod.

Anonymous Tue Feb 24 15:37:26 2015 No.2254207

>>2251664
>>2252903
>>2252912
>>2252918
-I have MD2 Scart cables of higher quality
-I need stereo through scart (the mod has its own amp bypassing headphone amp.)
-I would rather have MD1 because power adapter also fits my AVFamicom, so that's one less adapter laying around.

and it was a kind of "can I make it work ?" project.

oh and it's RGB, I don't do svideo/composhit nonsense.

Anonymous Tue Feb 24 23:32:11 2015 No.2255108
File: 1.27 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_1207.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So, this weekend I got two Snes Jr's pretty cheap at a yard sale, one of them is working perfectly, but the other one seems like it won't turn on or won't send any signal, since this shit doesn't have a led I don't know if it's turning on or not.

Anyways, I opened it and found this obviously soldered resistor on the back of the video plug.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 24 23:34:02 2015 No.2255110 File: 1.46 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_1209.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2255108 This is how it looks from behind. Seems like the previous owner tried to do something here, not sure what was trying to achieve.

Anonymous Tue Feb 24 23:36:48 2015 No.2255117
File: 1.20 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_1210.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2255110
I opened the other one (the one that is working fine) to see how it was supposed to look, but I was greeted by this weird job, I do could see the resistors that are supposed to be there so... what could cause the other snes jr to not turn on?

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 24 23:38:45 2015 No.2255119 File: 1.32 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_1211.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2255117 And out of curiosity, what's the purpose of all this crap? Note that this is the Snes Jr that works without any problems, I'm just perplexed about this.

>>	Anonymous Tue Feb 24 23:43:50 2015 No.2255123 >>2255119 That appears to be an RGB mod. With that installed you can pull an RGB signal off the multi-out with a SCART cable.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Tue Feb 24 23:53:10 2015 No.2255149 >>2255123 Definitely an RGB mod, and even has the amplifier for (supposedly) reducing the gray bar. Also has CSync wired up. Surprised they didn't try selling it online for more.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 00:03:06 2015 No.2255164 File: 42 KB, 640x640, 1420615551228.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2255123 >>2255149 Oh! Sweet! Too bad I don't have one of those monitors, at least that's one more reason to get one.

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 03:36:44 2015 No.2255478
File: 3.11 MB, 1920x1440, No Red.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Sorry if I'm shitting up the thread, but there's currently no QTDDTOT thread and I don't want to make one incase I do it wrong (poor image choice or OP text) and someone spergs out (not sure if VR is like the other boards here, I don't visit often).

Anyway, the missus bought a cheap scart cable for my Megadrive 2 - tried using it today and I get no red coming through. All colours come through with RF cable and composite cable but they both look like shit.

Just wondering what I could do to diagnose the problem? Is it likely to be a bad cable? Or does it sound like a fault with the Megadrive?

Sorry for terrible picture quality.

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 03:58:43 2015 No.2255510

>>2255108
>>2255110

This is most definitely a bad solder joint. It looks like the previous owner was trying to replace a pair of capacitors with a resistor. I would go as far as to say that the previous owner had no idea what they were doing. You might notice how the rest of the resistors on the board do not appear to be thru-hole mount. You'll also notice that the two holes he soldered the resistor to say 'C30' and 'C31'. This is how we know there are supposed to be capacitors there

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 03:59:50 2015 No.2255515 Pretty sure that's why your other console isn't working.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 04:17:21 2015 No.2255539 >>2255117 Yeah, those aren't resistors. Those are surface-mount capacitors.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 06:42:14 2015 No.2255686 >>2255478 Take the scart part apart (undo the ring bit and halve it on the non-hinged side)and check everythings soldered and not shorting anything.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 06:49:44 2015 No.2255695 >>2255686 Will do momentarily, thank-you!

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 11:42:18 2015 No.2256051
File: 1.64 MB, 384x172, 1424697528906.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2255510
>>2255539
I see, does anybody knows the values of those two capacitors so I can remove that resistor and replace the capacitors?

I'm thinking on replacing the voltage regulator too, I mean, there had to be a reason the previous owner thought he needed to solder that resistor.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 12:07:21 2015 No.2256076 >>2256051 did you check the fuse first ?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 12:55:12 2015 No.2256161 File: 116 KB, 640x480, DSC00099-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2256076 No, that's another for the list of things to check as soon as I return home, is this one, right?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 13:42:55 2015 No.2256252 Anyone frontlit a Gameboy Colour? Any advice?

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 15:32:17 2015 No.2256428
File: 628 KB, 3388x2268, dreamcast_h_02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I started playing Sonic Adventure on my Dreamcast, and it worked fine, until the game got stuck on a loading screen. I restarted my Dreamcast an it starts to load the game, but aufter 5 seconds of loading it goes to the Dreamcasts main menu. This happend to me twice with Jet Set Radio, but now it runs fine. In fact every other game I own runs fine, only Sonic Adventure wont start.The disc is fine, no scratches and clean.

Is something wrong with the lens? If so, why can I play any other game other than Sonic Adventure, although th disc is fine?

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 15:56:41 2015 No.2256467 >>2256428 just throw it out the window mine stopped working years ago so and i threw it it out..

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 16:03:14 2015 No.2256474

>>2256467
I have the feeling Dreamcast break way too easy, I already head to repair the Powersupplythings.

BUT I just turned that "red screw" by my Dreamcasts laser and tried Sonic Adventure again, and it started! So hopefully I repaired it for good.

I wonder when I have to fix the next thing...

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 16:26:48 2015 No.2256517 >>2256051 I don't, but it might be on the casing of the other two. You'll need a magnifying glass or something to read it. Or you might look for a parts list. What circuit was it?

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 16:41:42 2015 No.2256539
File: 164 KB, 800x600, SNES-V2-S-Video---Resistors-on-MultiAV-Port.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2256161
If you have a continuity-tester, that could be the easiest way to determine whether or not the fuse is still working. Or if you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage across the fuse. If the voltage is non-zero, the fuse is at least mostly intact.

>>2256051
I'm really wracking my brain on that one, trying to figure out why they'd solder that resistor there. First off, those appear to be two completely separate parts of the circuit which he bridged with a thru-hole mount resistor, which in no way would behave similarly to a capacitor at all. Maybe he was trying to do something like pic related. Clearly he can't solder though

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 17:41:19 2015 No.2256638

>>2256539
Searching on the internet I found that C30 and C31 are decoupling caps, seems like definitely the guy who did this had no idea what he was doing. My guess is that the Snes didn't turned on and for some reason he came to the conclusion that soldering that resistor there would solve the problem.

As soon as I return home I'll check for continuity on the fuse and the voltage regulator, if one of them are busted then probably I can remove that resistor and replace the fuse or the 7805 and pray he didn't caused more damage when he soldered that resistor.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 19:08:34 2015 No.2256752 >>2256467 Thanks. Because of idiots like you my collection of easily repairable consoles is increasing in value daily!

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 19:19:04 2015 No.2256769 >>2256638 Any idea what the value of that resistor was? I can't really tell based on the pic

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 20:49:36 2015 No.2256948
File: 1.35 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_1225.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2256769
Ok so, when I removed the heatsink to take a better phoro of the resistor I noticed that the fuse is actually missing, so that proves my theory of the previous owner trying to fix something without knowing what was he doing.

This is probably what he was trying to do: http://youtu.be/MDTEoI51DyM?t=1m35s

Gonna remove that resistor and put a proper fuse. Let's see what happens.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 21:03:52 2015 No.2256975 >>2256948 Ugh, forget it he totally removed C30 and C31 too, and those seems to be a bitch to replace.

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 21:13:36 2015 No.2256987

>>2256948
>bypassing the fuse

Dios mío!

Did you wick the blobs over C30 and C31 to verify that the caps are missing? I can't tell if either position is unpopulated based on the pic.

I can't imagine the Drakon who worked on that thing would have even been capable of desoldering SMD components, which may explain the enormous blobs for bridging the pads.

At any rate, the fuse value is 1.5A, while C30 and C31 are both 50V 0.01uF caps.

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 21:55:09 2015 No.2257110
File: 1.80 MB, 2592x1944, 25022015165.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2256987
Yep, I removed that resistor and the C30 and C31 are entirely missing, I can even see scratches from when he was removing them, I bet he used a knife or something to pop them out.

>At any rate, the fuse value is 1.5A, while C30 and C31 are both 50V 0.01uF caps.

Thanks! Do you know if I can replace C30/31 with electrolitic or ceramic capacitors? Since I don't think I have the skill to replace SMD components.

I also noticed this capacitor is missing (sorry for the potato camera)

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 22:11:30 2015 No.2257168

>>2257110
>Do you know if I can replace C30/31 with electrolitic or ceramic capacitors?

It doesn't really matter as long as the replacements are of the same spec.

>I also noticed this capacitor is missing (sorry for the potato camera)

Can't see shit, captain.

If that's C60 that's missing it's a 6.3V 220uF cap.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 22:21:30 2015 No.2257205 File: 234 KB, 1093x614, 1322165245508.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2257168 Yes it was C60, thanks man! I'll get the replacement and install them tomorrow since all electronic stores are closed by now, then I'll report the results.

Anonymous Wed Feb 25 22:34:43 2015 No.2257239

I changed the battery in my pokemon crystal version, and used a cr2032 instead of the standard which was a cr2025 or some shit. the game saves and everything like it should, but some weird shit's been happening.

for starters, the game absolutely will not work with stadium 2(i heard it's not compatible, but google says it is, i don't know). when i play the game it has weird graphical glitches, like when a pokemon attacks or comes out of a pokeball.

i started a new file to see if that would fix anything, and somehow the pokemon i had in the last file carried over into the new file when i turned the game off and back on

did i fuck this game? how do i fix this?

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Wed Feb 25 22:44:25 2015 No.2257267 File: 1.19 MB, 3280x2460, 101_4677.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2257239 >for starters, the game absolutely will not work with stadium 2(i heard it's not compatible, but google says it is, i don't know). It's perfectly compatible.

>>	Anonymous Wed Feb 25 22:50:45 2015 No.2257284 >>2257267 that's what i figured, but of all the gb/gbc games, crystal is the only one that doesn't work, regardless of what controller, port, transfer pak, etc i use

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 00:05:19 2015 No.2257408 I have this NES that won't display the game graphics, can hear the music perfectly but I just get a gray (sometimes clear blue) screen with vertical and diagonal very faint lines. Could it be the capacitors or the PPU?

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 03:10:17 2015 No.2257642 >>2257239 >>2257284 The 2025 is slightly taller and lasts slightly longer, I wonder if that might have something to do with it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 14:04:29 2015 No.2258262 >>2252646 >>2251690 >>2250416 Oh my goodness >>2243154 Here I didn't expect this much of a hullabaloo over suggesting a contacts cleaner/lube. I have nothing against Isopropyl either. We just have proper electronics cleaners in my environment.

Anonymous Thu Feb 26 15:35:36 2015 No.2258381

What is a good product for cleaning SNES/NES carts with? The plastic housing, that is. I picked up an SNES cart, but it has a store label on the back over the regular back label, and an orange discoloring elsewhere on the plastic.

So what I want to do is remove the 'store label' that someone slapped over the regular SNES cart rear label, and clean off the strange orange crap. I think it might be a stain.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 22:14:54 2015 No.2259079 >>2258381 >inb4 that one dumbass suggests coconut oil

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 22:16:41 2015 No.2259082 >>2259079 I remember that argument, lulz

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 23:47:20 2015 No.2259216 >>2258381 Find a snes sports game you don't care about and steal it's back shell.

>>	Anonymous Thu Feb 26 23:49:15 2015 No.2259221 >>2257408 Is the 72 pin cart connector clean and tight? Have you tried both av and rf?

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 27 00:21:40 2015 No.2259269 File: 263 KB, 549x480, 549px-PAL-SNES.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] If I mod my PAL SNES to switch to 60 hz will it display colour through composite and s-video?

Anonymous Fri Feb 27 10:41:39 2015 No.2259820

>>2259269
If early then yes, it will be PAL60 and your TV must support it.

If 1chip then no, it will be PAL with NTSC subcarrier frequency (because of the needed 6x NTSC crystal) and i didn't encountered anything with an composite or S-Video input that could display it.
For 1chip you can add a additional PAL subcarrier oscillator for the video encoder but this will result into a moving dot crawl (subcarrier not synced with pixel clock) and nasty looking interference if the oscillator output isn't a sinewave.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 27 11:22:41 2015 No.2259850 >>2259820 It's not one chip so should be done I guess. Thanks

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 27 18:25:47 2015 No.2260468 >>2257642 could it be it's not making a good enough connection? I have it taped down pretty good, and this is the only game i've had do this so far. I've put 2032s in red, blue, gold, and silver and all of them are working fine

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 27 20:03:27 2015 No.2260613 >>2257168 So I got the capacitors but now I don't know which side should be the positive and the negative leg.

>>	Anonymous Fri Feb 27 20:58:16 2015 No.2260705 >>2260613 If you mean on the board, it should be clearly marked. If you mean the caps themselves, the stripe marks the -ve leg.

Anonymous Fri Feb 27 22:07:56 2015 No.2260821
File: 929 KB, 1851x2158, IMG_1252.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2260705
>>2255108
>>2255110

It's Alive!!!

Geez, it sure feels good to hear that music and see that picture after all that time spent figuring out what the hell was wrong with this thing.

Thanks /vr/, you guys are awesome ;_;7

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 01:50:38 2015 No.2261132 >>2259221 Yeah I cleaned it and everything, I even exchanged it for my working one with the same results. Using RF won't get any signal, I can see some interference on the screen when I turn on the NES but no picture or sound at all.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 07:14:31 2015 No.2261386 >>2260821 so what did you do overall ? congrats on reviving

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 12:05:35 2015 No.2261681 >>2261386 I replaced C30 and C31 with equivalent ceramic capacitors (wasn't that hard after all), I soldered a crystal fuse, and replaced C60 with an equivalent electrolitic capacitor. And throw that resistor into the trash.

Anonymous Sat Feb 28 16:12:02 2015 No.2261969

>>2261132
I'm afraid it's either the ppu or cpu then, possibly both. I have 5 snes systems I'm trying to fix for this guy and I can't get a picture out of them either.
The chips just give out on these old systems sometimes and the only thing they are good for is parts for other systems.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 18:18:57 2015 No.2262127 my sega mega drive 2 finally arrived, whats the best guide for 60hz mod?

Anonymous Sat Feb 28 22:05:09 2015 No.2262520

I finally got rgb out of my nodded playstation and now the laser is giving me trouble. Games that run fine on other systems are now stuttering in fmv and have buggy music. I'm guessing this is down to either the laser dying or the clips that would hold the CD in place being missing which is a causing the CD and the drive to spin at different speeds.

Any diy methods to fixing this or should I just find a replacement CD drive for my playstation?

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 22:36:02 2015 No.2262594 >>2260821 I can't understand why someone would go to all the trouble of gutting it and cramming that resistor in there when fixing it properly would have been easier.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 22:38:01 2015 No.2262601 >>2262127 >whats the best guide for 60hz mod? Buying a NTSC unit. Works 100% the time on all models, requires zero modding knowledge.

>>	Anonymous Sat Feb 28 22:41:46 2015 No.2262616 >>2262601 Get a load of this guy.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 1 07:49:18 2015 No.2263389 >>2262601 This is repair/mod thread, fuck off.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 1 08:01:14 2015 No.2263396 >>2262601 True that but their are some games that only work in pal mode

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 1 09:26:16 2015 No.2263469 >>2262127 DPDT on-on-on

Anonymous Sun Mar 1 20:04:29 2015 No.2264364
File: 280 KB, 600x450, winningbutnotwinning.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So, I never fixed up an NES before..and I managed to grab up two for free, including games and all of the necessary connections. I cleaned them out, removed the security chip..still nothing!

Maybe the 72 connector pins? I cleaned those..every time I turn the system on I get just a black screen and a buzzing noise.

For both systems. How can both systems not function. They were in the same conditions together so I suppose its possible.

I guess perhaps I didn't clean the pins well enough?

Anonymous Sun Mar 1 23:13:56 2015 No.2264852

>>2264364
Well you want to find the cause obviously so try as many different combinations of accessories as you can.

Make sure the games are as clean as possible.

If you have any other games try using those to mix it up.

If you have a different power adapter preferably one that outputs DC you should try that.

The black screen and buzzing sound might indicate the smoothing cap or bridge rectifier has failed or become unsoldered so the DC power adapter might work. If the DC adapter doesn't work there could still be an issue with the bridge rectifier

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 00:39:25 2015 No.2264971

I just got a 3rd partyt scart cable for my Super famicom (it was advertised as euroscart for superfam). The colours look fine (to me at least) but the picture is alot softer than my 3rd party s-video is which seems clear as crystal on my pvm. The whites also seem more white with s-video. What could be the reason for this? I run my MVS through RGB on the same TV and it looks alot clearer.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 11:09:16 2015 No.2265560 >>2264364 Do they even turn on? or they just won't play the games? If they won't turn on, you may need to change the 7805 voltage regulator.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 11:38:42 2015 No.2265606 >>2265560 >>2264364 Forget that stupid question, check the capacitors on the RF modulator.

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 18:49:20 2015 No.2266289
File: 19 KB, 480x360, hqdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I'm having a new problem with my model 2 US Sega Saturn and was wondering if anybody has encountered it before. As my favorite system, it has seen very heavy use since I got it around '96 or '97, so it may have finally just burnt out and given up on life. It was modded to play backups and used with an off-brand memory cart which also served as a bypass for the region lock.
Anyway, I can hear the disc spinning but the system is stuck on system settings. It will not go to the CD player (pictured) let alone boot up a game. If I exit system settings, it goes right back to the Saturn logo and then back to system settings. I removed the modchip and reconnected everything like the day it was born and tried starting it up with an actual Saturn disc and with the memory cart disconnected to factor those out (I have had similar problems with the modchip before and wanted to make sure it wasn't that; although when the modchip is not in right the disc tends not to spin), and the same thing happens. Straight to system settings. Even with no disc inserted I can hear the drive motor going and instead of going to the CD player to tell me that the disc drive is empty it sticks me in system settings.
Anybody know what is up? Is it time to say goodbye to one of my dearest friends?

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 18:56:53 2015 No.2266306 >>2266289 Sounds like the laser is all burned out. You might be able to replace the drive to make it work again. Not sure if it's possible to just replace the laser diode and make it work.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 19:02:15 2015 No.2266320 >>2257239 >pokemon i had in the last file carried over into the new file Dude. That's awesome.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 19:05:34 2015 No.2266325 I've got a SNES with a huge hole in the plastic on the side. Works perfectly. Already have a SNES without a hole. What should I do with the holey SNES?

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 19:12:22 2015 No.2266341

>>2257239
>i started a new file to see if that would fix anything, and somehow the pokemon i had in the last file carried over into the new file when i turned the game off and back on
The battery is there to keep the RAM in the cartridge powered but when the power is removed the RAM doesn't clear instantly it's possible for the contents to persist for several minutes.

Remove the battery and let the game sit for a few minutes before you put it back in.

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 19:28:21 2015 No.2266367

>>2266306
Could be, and I know that's a common problem on old CD systems, but why would a dead laser stick me in system settings and prevent the CD player itself from loading up to tell me it can't read the disc? Not trying to be snarky, just doesn't sound right to me. Anyway, I'll start looking into seeing if it's worth trying to replace the drive as opposed to getting another system.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 19:32:48 2015 No.2266376 Is there a generally accepted best PSX modchip? I hear MM3 is good, but it's not a stealth chip and AP will kick my ass.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 21:52:48 2015 No.2266680 >>2266376 >implying people here can agree on anything I use the 629 version of MM3. Works fine, stealth, never had a problem. Never had problems with the previous one either.

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 21:58:09 2015 No.2266687

>>2266367
>>2266289
Well that does sound strange. Something has definitely been screwed up in the console. At first I suspected the laser but that wouldn't cause the menu to act like that. Are you certain you connected everything like it was? Maybe the modchip broke and shorted something out?

Anonymous Mon Mar 2 23:46:58 2015 No.2266883

>>2264364
Samefag here. It was the pins. I unscrewed everything, and re-bent each individual pin on the connector and ...viola! Visuals and music. There is still the issue of the buzzing, however. The game plays and the music is there, but that buzz.

Reading various forums, I come to the conclusion that perhaps it is the AC adapter.

I have this, which came with the SNES I recently got - buzzing.
I tried the one that came with the systems - buzzing. But this was stored in much the same way as the NESes, and is wrapped in electrical tape as well. It could be blown.
I have a Genesis adapter I can try as I also read you can use these for an NES.

If anyone has any other ideas, please do share. This has become quite the pet project. I am loving every minute of it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 2 23:48:02 2015 No.2266887 File: 27 KB, 287x300, 51eKuQs+rGL._SY300_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2266883 GJ adding the pic, self.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 00:34:36 2015 No.2266959
File: 206 KB, 546x206, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2266887
Found a picture of the other side of the box.
>Output: DC 9V/350mA
>350mA
There's your problem.

That thing is horribly out of spec. NES/SNES and pretty much every other console from that period requires 9-11V and a bare minimum of 850mA with more being better. That is just irresponsible.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 00:42:12 2015 No.2266972 >>2266680 The MM3 is a stealth chip? I've read that it's not. What can you tell me about it as an owner?

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 01:18:35 2015 No.2267017

>>2266959
the amperage is the real problem here, not so much the voltage. most consoles from that period have internal voltage regulators and all take ~5V DC as input.

~1000mA is enough for pretty much every application. 850mA should be the minimum as you recommended.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 01:30:24 2015 No.2267030

>>2267017
Yeah the stock adapter was 850mA, this one is less than half of that. These newer switched power supplies really don't like being overdrawn. When the current is overdrawn past its original ratings the filter caps and other devices don't filter as well and a lot of ripple current gets left behind, which is very likely where the buzzing sound is coming from.

Aside from being annoying the ripple current can also damage electrolytic capacitors. You probably shouldn't use that power supply anymore, at least not for a game console.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 01:45:07 2015 No.2267046

>>2267030
Its kind of sad that I got this included with an SNES I bought used from a retro store. Means the place is probably doling these things out like candy.

I will have to look for an original adaptor for both the SNES and the NES. Its for the best!

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:24:33 2015 No.2267089

>>2257239
Had this once, I changed the battery and I still had my old save in it. I asked a knowledgeable anon back then and he told me it was the ram that did not had the time to wipe out. So I guess that your ram did not had the time to wipe out correctly, enjoy your super strong pokemons into your new save.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:39:36 2015 No.2267101

>>2266972
I guess it's not surprising that there's no official rules or branding when it comes to mod chips.
What I can tell you is it's a 7 wire mod using a 629 chip that I was told was a MM3 super latest greatest version and it works and plays games with antimod protection.
Probably not much help to you except to confirm that such things are (were?) being sold.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:39:53 2015 No.2267102

Not strictly console mod related, but I don't know where else this question would go.

I don't have the original power cord that came with my dreamcast or my playstation. Until today I've been using some other black one that happens to fit, but today I noticed that it has 300V stamped on it. I took a look at the bottom of both consoles, and they both specify 120V. Should I replace this cable before it fries my consoles? Could I get another 120V cable and use it interchangeably between the two systems? They have different wattages, but if I'm to understand Watts this doesn't matter in the case of the power cord.

Sorry to ask here, but I don't know shit about electricity.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:46:07 2015 No.2267107
File: 144 KB, 1579x831, mm3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2267101
I was looking at this, mostly due to the fact that I can't find any other vendors and this kinda makes my choice for me. The system thinks my post is spam, so I'm going to have to break up the link with spoilers. Not sure if that's going to impact anything.

>Our system thinks your post is spam. Please reformat and try again.

Why does flood detection/spam filtering still exist when we have captcha? Sorry, but the best I can do is a screencap.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:48:21 2015 No.2267110 >>2267102 The power source is internal for those systems, so the power cord should be fine, as its just a cord.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 02:51:29 2015 No.2267114 >>2267102 The wall power is 120v. The cable is rated for up to 300v.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 03:11:51 2015 No.2267139

>>2267017
>most consoles from that period have internal voltage regulators and all take ~5V DC as input.

Your input needs to be higher than your operating voltage. eg: The 7805 regulator feeds 5V to the system but it will drop some voltage doing it, and so will the diodes in the bridge rectifier feeding the regulator. You'll lose 1.4V in the rectifier, and then the 7805 itself has a minimum voltage drop of 2V. So 5V + 1.4V + 2V + 0.6V(tolerance/rounding) = 9V should about do it for stable operation.

>>2267102

That 300V marking is just a tolerance rating. It means voltages of 300V or below won't arc through the cladding and kill you.

>>2266972
>>2267107

Four bucks for the chip is a no-brainer if you don't already have a chip programmer and a cheaper source for a PIC chip.

The MMC3 is just a standard 8-pin PIC micro controller. What makes it a mod chip is the code loaded on it. AFAIK all the PSX's protections have been soundly defeated for ages.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 04:49:08 2015 No.2267229
File: 2.15 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150303_185800[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I just got a SCART RGB cable for my japanese MD1 and all the whites are black. I use an adapter splitting the RGB and Sync and plug them into my PVM (same thing works for my Super fam). Is this a common problem? Pic related

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 10:44:14 2015 No.2267285 >>2266325 How about to post a picture. What might be a possible feat would be smooth over this with right material and color it properly in, i highly doubt that this would look anywhere near decent. Why not just put a piece of duct tape over it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 11:18:14 2015 No.2267347 >>2267229 OMG, I love Sonic.exe! I'm sorry, I couldn't resist.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 11:30:25 2015 No.2267360

Is it possible to make 72 pin connector on an NES doesn't have issues contacting cartridges AND still has almost effortless insertion? I recently got fed up with needing to blow on my carts every time I booted up a nintendo game and decided to open up the sucker and bend the pins back. The good news is the connection is now tight... a bit too tight. It really grips the cart and it's so firm you don't even need to click down the cartridge slot for it to make contact.

Is it worth it to try bending the pins back down? Is there a sweet spot where it makes solid connection without needing to really push the cart in or rip it back out?

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 12:52:38 2015 No.2267468 >>2267229 Most likely a grounding issues. (shit quality cable)

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 12:58:33 2015 No.2267475 >>2267468 and/or adapter. forgot to add that.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 13:49:37 2015 No.2267558

>>2267360
>Is it worth it to try bending the pins back down? Is there a sweet spot where it makes solid connection without needing to really push the cart in or rip it back out?

Normal usage should loosen the pins up after a while. You shouldn't bend them back by hand.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 13:53:01 2015 No.2267562

While not strictly a console mod, I'm wondering if some people already tried connecting a (S)NES controller to a Raspberry Pi's GPIO and use that in RetroPie.

I tried, and a all I got with the Retropie-Setup script was an "installation failed" for the gamecon kernel module, which didn't build correctly.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 14:12:26 2015 No.2267586 >>2267558 So just leave a cartridge in the slot compressing the pins and eventually it will get loose again?

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 14:43:37 2015 No.2267626

>>2267586
yeah, or if you have some shitty game you don't care about insert/reinsert it over and over until you're comfy with the grip.

or get an edn8 and leave the thing in there.

and you don't need to push the game down, i leave mine up since it reads fine that way and then i have easier access to the SD card

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:00:32 2015 No.2267676

>>2267626
Yeah, I noticed that after I tweaked the connector, I no longer need to push it down to get a connection. I don't really like that though, since it doesn't feel right. Makes me feel like I'm playing some nigger-rigged version of NES held together by duct tape and bubblegum. It's just a sedimental thing.

I'll probably use one of my old shitty sports games to do what you said.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:06:13 2015 No.2267684 File: 1.77 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150304_060027[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2267229 >>2267468 >>2267475 This is the inside of the Scart cable

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:12:29 2015 No.2267697 File: 2.32 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150304_060250[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2267684 and this is the adapter I'm using to connect it to the PVM

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:19:22 2015 No.2267706 File: 1.64 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150304_060016[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2267684 bit better photo

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:36:27 2015 No.2267729

>>2267684
>>2267706
see pic related, make sure your grounds are connected they don't look like they all are but it's hard to tell with those pics.

>>2267697
so this thing strips the RGB and SYNC out of the scart and outputs them on RCA?
and it works fine with your snes?
because it looks like a cheap ass composite/audio-l/audio-r breakout adapter thingy.

assuming your PVM takes BNC input, why not just get a scart>bnc cable from http://www.retrogamingcables.com/sony-pvm.html or make your own? that is, if you're stripping RGB and SYNC to RCA just to throw on a RCA>BNC adapter anyways.

just my .02

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:37:27 2015 No.2267732 File: 4 KB, 470x285, megamstr[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2267729 >see pic related hurrderrr

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:39:48 2015 No.2267736 >>2267729 i didn't even look at those prices of those cables, holy shit. build your own i got my scart cables from them, they weren't too bad in price but these bnc breakouts are ridiculous

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:40:02 2015 No.2267737

>>2267729
adapter's pretty solid and well made dude. Works fine with my Superfam as well.

I of course use BNC adapters on the ends of the RCA cables sorry for not mentioning that.

Theres a resistor >>2267706 between two pins in this pic. What would that do?

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:48:04 2015 No.2267750 >>2267737 where'd you get that cable? and can you get a clearer photo? that's a 180ohm resister, and should be bridged from pin 16 to 18 coming from 5v. (pin 4 on av out) but i can't really tell with that picture

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 15:55:45 2015 No.2267756 >>2267732 So i studied the connections and it seems 18 isn't connected at all, there's a black wire connected to 17,and theres a grey wire soldered to 4 everything else is as it is in the diagram

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 17:02:14 2015 No.2267865
File: 3.62 MB, 4608x3456, j025.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I know that people has overclocked snes star fox, but has anyone done same for PAL version(pic related)? There are some guides for it, but all of them are for us version expect one which has broken images..

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 17:20:27 2015 No.2267898
File: 12 KB, 342x251, 41UXCGTfMKL._SX342_[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2267865
This SuperFX gets it's clock from pin 1, which is the SNES master clock (21.28mhz).
So you must cut this connection and connect the clock output of the faster oscillator to the end that goes to the SuperFX.

That's basically it.

Anonymous Tue Mar 3 21:39:23 2015 No.2268367
File: 181 KB, 1600x900, $_57 (8).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hi guys I've been checking this thread for some advice, there is this Rechargeable battery modded GBA and I couldn't find anything on the web about it , he says that the battery holds up to 9 hours of use with the backlit screen and it takes 2 hours to recharge , does anyone have any info about it? I would like to do it for my GBA but I have no clue

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 21:52:33 2015 No.2268392 >>2268367 Not retro.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 22:53:26 2015 No.2268538 >>2268392 is not? .. GBA is pretty retro for me ,anyway where should I go for info then can ,you point me in the right direction?

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 23:13:47 2015 No.2268575 >>2268538 look up the name on your picture on ebay, he sells them pre-modded, see if he'll sell you schematics.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 23:43:48 2015 No.2268658 >>2267756 8 and 16 are inverted. Should be wire connected to 8 then the resistor going from 8 to 16. If your box needs some power, maybe it feeds on pin 8 and with the resistor it doesn't get enough juice.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 3 23:58:21 2015 No.2268697 >>2268538 >is not? Came out after 1999. >where should I go for info then Try /diy/. Don't really see the point to making a battery pack for it though when Eneloop AAs are so awesome.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 4 01:01:54 2015 No.2268867 >>2268658 Thanks for noticing dude, I'll try this first

Anonymous Wed Mar 4 05:56:08 2015 No.2269219

>>2267732
>>2267756
>>2268658
Thanks everyone. I switched 8 and 16 so the resistor was running to 16 but that made no difference. I then changed the wire that was running to 17 (which was ground after multitesting it) to 18 and that solved the problem.

>>2267736
>i didn't even look at those prices of those cables, holy shit.

Yeah they're stupid prices especially to deliver to where I live/vs our dollar.
I bought the cable in >>2267697 from here http://www.tvcables.co.uk/cgi-bin/tvcables/RGBS-SCART-ADAPTER.html?id=MIcSXuGe literally the only place I could find that sort of thing other than the expensive scart - bnc pvm exclusive things. Pretty useful to me because I have seperate RCA mounts coming out of my consolised MVS and this thing works either way so I can basically make a scart out for MVS (for scart compat. tvs and mini xrgb if I ever have the cash for one).

Very small difference between S-video and RGB on the MD but i'd say fuller, the S-video looks very clear but a little thin (i'm guessing this has to do with caps and resisters).

The SNES on the other hand I actually prefer the S-video even though it's a bit bright. The RGB signal is warn but very soft and lacking detail wheras the S-video is pixel perfect.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 4 13:05:38 2015 No.2269729 kinda related, anyone have suggestions for cleaning used controllers? Just using warm water, wondering if there's a solvent or something a little more effective but won't leave residue or damage anything.

Kya !kDashing02 Wed Mar 4 13:40:37 2015 No.2269778

>>2269219
>The SNES on the other hand I actually prefer the S-video even though it's a bit bright. The RGB signal is warn but very soft and lacking detail wheras the S-video is pixel perfect.
Soft RGB is a problem with a lot of SNESs. Have you considered trying a 1chip/modding a Mini? The picture they produce can be almost sickeningly sharp at times.

Anonymous Wed Mar 4 13:50:13 2015 No.2269782

>>2269729

disassemble the controller completely, first clean every single piece by hand with a sponge and alcohol based spray.
After that submerge the little pieces in the spray solution for 10 minutes, centrifugate them if you can, after all of this, wash every single piece again with shampoo.

I cleaned a lot of controllers, and this way i have been able to completely clean a ps1 controller, totally covered in a green substance that didn't even look from this world.

Anonymous Thu Mar 5 08:11:21 2015 No.2271495
File: 124 KB, 960x717, gb and gba shite.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Currently need to replace the batteries in all of my GB/GBC carts
I already have the required security bit and I can easily get the batteries and a soldering iron at the cheapie hardware store in town
The problem is I don't want the soldering iron to go to waste when I'm finished with it, so I need to find someone who will take it or find some other use for it

I also need to get into my GBA and clean out underneath the D-pad, pressing Down requires unnecessary force to get it to work
Same with my Gameboy Pocket, except with pressing Up

Anonymous Thu Mar 5 08:42:50 2015 No.2271527
File: 19 KB, 640x320, FZE6DTVIQ2EWT1K6KY.LARGE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2271495
I would just recommend keeping the soldering iron. A cheap one wouldn't take up that much space and if you collect more cartridges you'll still be able to replace batteries.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 5 09:12:37 2015 No.2271571 >>2271527 You make a good point! I never considered the thought of purchasing more carts in the future Thanks, anon!

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 6 08:22:28 2015 No.2273652 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 6 22:27:14 2015 No.2275162 >>2261969 Yeah, it saddly seems to be the case, I replaced all the caps and the problem continued the same. Too lazy to change that chip, however I should try, I intend to RGB mod my own NES one day and this could be a handy experience.

Neal Sat Mar 7 00:33:49 2015 No.2275419

Hey guys, I just picked up a jungle green N64 and it doesn't show picture at all. It acts like it doesn't have a jumper pak but I tested the one I have in my normal gray N64 and it works fine. Do you guys have any input on my problem? If you need pictures I can post some.

Anonymous Sat Mar 7 00:37:24 2015 No.2275424

>>2275419
What's exactly the difference between when a N64 just don't read a game correctly and when it doesn't have the jumper pack?

You can try cleaning the expansion/jumper pack slot, and the cartridge slot too. Ya know, using the method of the cloth and a card.

>>	Neal Sat Mar 7 00:41:19 2015 No.2275428 >>2275424 I cleaned the game and jumper pak and tested them both in a seperate N64 and they work first time.

>>	Neal Sat Mar 7 00:42:19 2015 No.2275429 >>2275428 Also cleaned the contacts on the console itself.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 02:32:45 2015 No.2275554 >>2275162 It's not that hard with the right tools, a solder sucker or wick, best is a de soldering iron. You can get a cheap one at radioshack if you still have one.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 05:19:03 2015 No.2275805 Is there a way to make cd drive go quieter during seeking times? My PS1 drive is making horrible noises and if possible I would like to avoid to buy a new drive.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 05:20:33 2015 No.2275806 >>2275805 Grease.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 14:07:14 2015 No.2276380 >>2275805 Grease the rails, grease the gears, never use petroleum-based lubricant.

>>	Neal Sat Mar 7 21:22:49 2015 No.2277196 >>2275428 Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? I just cleaned all of the console contacts again and no difference.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 21:25:37 2015 No.2277207 >>2277196 Something else doesn't work somewhere in the console. I don't have it in front of me, I can't take it apart and tell you what's wrong with it.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 7 23:50:38 2015 No.2277358 My Genesis freezes if bumped, and if I try to play any of the compatible lock on games with Sonic & Knuckles, the slightest feather light touch will bump the cartridge and freeze the game. Why? And how can I fix this. Can I fix this even?

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 00:05:53 2015 No.2277384

>>2277196
Seems like you're gonna have to look for more specific problems, I would check if there's something wrong on how the video is being carried, maybe a capacitor is dead, or maybe there's something wrong with the AV multi out.

It could be that the CPU or the Picture Procesor Unit has gone bad too.

>>	Neal Sun Mar 8 03:23:53 2015 No.2277627 >>2277384 Thanks. I'll start checking caps then. I hope that's all that is wrong.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 06:27:10 2015 No.2277895 >>2276380 >>2275806 So what kind of grease should I be using then? Silicon based?

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 13:01:53 2015 No.2278336
File: 35 KB, 480x640, MVC-022S.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Somewhat offtopic, but I didn't want to start a new thread.

This might be a stupid question, but eh, I'll give it a shot:
There is a version of the Model 1 genesis where the EXT port is covered up (pic related). I've heard that this model has shittier sound output than earlier Model 1s. Anyway, is it possible that the EXT port itself still remained on the revised mobo, and they just covered up the hole on the chassis(there's plenty of space - it doesn't jut out of the console at all)? The only reason I ask is because I bought a Model 1 recently from a reseller who is known to re-package working motherboards in other chassis (usually much cleaner ones from broken consoles). It does have the EXT port, but again, I can't be sure I got the right one if the port was still on the revised Model 1 mobo.

I WOULD open it up to try and identify which mobo it is, but then they won't take it back, because they always stick their shitty 'warranty void if removed' stickers over everything.
Resellers. Not even once.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 13:15:34 2015 No.2278369
File: 2.39 MB, 3488x2480, PC_BD_M5_USA_VA7.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2278336
I have a Model 1 without EXT, but it's still a good one.

the only model 1 with shitty sound is pretty rare. One way to id would be to look for the heatsink through the vents with a light. If you can see it taking all of the vents width, it's a good model 1. If you cannnot see the heatsink, or only a very small one, then it's a bad one.

pic is a VA7 (bad). Notice the small heatsink.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 13:41:32 2015 No.2278392
File: 376 KB, 1280x720, 20150308_182120.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2278336
>>2278369
Now, see how you can spot the larger heatsink, you might see the 2 screws coverted in red glue if you move the light and your head. This is a good one, even if it has no HDG or no EXT.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 13:47:18 2015 No.2278398

>>2278392
>>2278369
>>2278336
The easiest way to tell is the space for the EXT isn't there. See how the power plug is moved over? That's a shit revision.
If it doesn't say "High Definition Graphics" on top but the inputs are still aligned like on the older Model 1 it's a good revision.

So you got 2 bad revisions there.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 14:44:56 2015 No.2278470

I had a bit of a weird moment today. I'm giving my dad a ps2 with a bunch of games and two controllers. But as I was trying out my ps2 controllers, almost all of them appear to be broken somehow.
I was able to test them with the PadTest program on homebrew, and one of them seems to press down all the facebuttons, one presses the circle button repeatedly, two of them have issues with the analog stick constantly going in a certain direction, and one of them only has the d-pad right and square button work.
I have no idea how the fuck this happened, it could have been an issue for a long time ( I don't always test all the things I buy ).
But are there ways I can fix stuff like this?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 14:56:18 2015 No.2278485 >>2278470 Not retro. It's fucked.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 14:57:35 2015 No.2278486 >>2278485 I also have one ps1 controller with similar issues, that magically makes it retro.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:04:11 2015 No.2278498 >>2278486 Did you read the manual and rotate the sticks?

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:09:29 2015 No.2278506

So the different versions of the genesis have good/bad sound, but what about video? I have 2 model 1 geneses and they both have that rainbow bars effect via composite out. Do the model 2s also have this problem?

From what I hear this is only a problem with composite because it has a shit encoder or whatever. playing in RGB wouldn't have it, but I'm american. I might buy those kickstarted genesis component cables once they release

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:13:31 2015 No.2278515 >>2278506 Some Genesis have vertical lines on rgb. It's fixable though.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:41:11 2015 No.2278541 >>2278470 Take them apart and clean them.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:43:41 2015 No.2278543 >>2277895 White Lithium is what they used at the factory. You can find it in auto parts stores or online, it comes in a tube like toothpaste.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:48:05 2015 No.2278552 >>2241620 Is there a PS1 RGB cable that DOES automaticly switch to RGB? If just bought a second one. And still doesn't go to RGB on my HDTV. I don't want any official cables. Too expensive.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 15:54:53 2015 No.2278567

>>2278552
auto rgb (AKA fast blanking) is done by applying 1-3v on scart pin 16.
The easiest way is to wire a 75-180 resistor between pin 8 (where +5v coming from console is usually wired) and pin16.

I bought a cheap PS cable, and yeah for some reason pin 16 wasn't wired, while it's absolutely vital because manual rgb switching is rare as fuck.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 16:41:03 2015 No.2278648 >>2278485 you know you can play ps1 games on ps2? And that you can use ps2 controllers on ps1? Its called backwards compatibility.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 16:59:30 2015 No.2278672 >>2278648 >you can use ps2 controllers on ps1 Wouldn't that be forwards compatible?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 17:17:12 2015 No.2278696 >>2278543 Thanks bro I'll be taking a look

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 17:42:17 2015 No.2278741 >>2278648 Doesn't make it retro. >>2278672 Yes

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 17:47:23 2015 No.2278750 >>2278741 ps1 isnt retro?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 17:49:23 2015 No.2278751 >>2278750 PS2 isn't.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 20:28:37 2015 No.2279013 File: 586 KB, 2592x1456, gamecube.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Is it possible to save this?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 8 20:34:11 2015 No.2279020 >>2279013 All this none retro shit is going to get the thread taken down... How about checking continuity? Can't tell how bad corrosion is from a picture.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 21:40:01 2015 No.2279085

>>2278751
The occasional PS2 or GCN question here is fine. This is a support thread, if the odd person needs help with a system a generation up, it's easier to help.

That said, if it starts being common, redirecting them to the wiki message board is something I've recommended in the past.

Anonymous Sun Mar 8 22:49:30 2015 No.2279157

>>2279013
It's possible but you're going to need to figure out where the traces are supposed to go and use wires to recreate the those traces. You'll also need to replace the components that were once there.

A picture of a "good" motherboard would help considerably.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 9 00:22:33 2015 No.2279257 >>2243154 use craigs deoxit. the red can for cleaning, the gold can for contact protection..... you dont want lube on something that doesn't move while connected.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 9 00:43:18 2015 No.2279275 >>2279257 I'd be really concerned with something that leaves a film. Is it safe on boards? I don't even use anything but ipa to clean flux for fear of damaging old boards.

Anonymous Mon Mar 9 00:59:40 2015 No.2279303
File: 292 KB, 533x854, 1404183436647.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2279275
>>2279257
Actually I just checked the site and this is obvious audiophile bullshit.
>Cleaner Audio - Clearer Video - Reliable Data.
>literally $199 for a 12 oz bottle
That's not $1.99 or even $19.99. That's ONE HUNDRED AND NINETY NINE DOLLARS.
>$30 something for a 6oz spray can

Holly shit I'm laughing.
>>2279257
You actually bought this shit?

Anonymous Mon Mar 9 02:13:08 2015 No.2279401

So I have a chipped PS2 that is supposed to be able to play burned PS1 games as well, naturally.

I tried this last night by burning a PS1 game to a CD-R, but the PS2 won't even read it; it winds up and then there is a clicking noise and it winds down. I don't want to do it again because it might damage the sensor.

Anyone had an issue like this before? I know it's technically not retro but I'm looking to play PS1 games anyway.

Anonymous Mon Mar 9 02:18:35 2015 No.2279410

>>2279401
This is a shot in the dark, but it's worth a try: I had a similar issue with my Saturn, and it had something to do with how my drive was burning the disc. The disc wouldn't read if I burnt it at the lowest speed or the highest speed, but it WOULD read if I burnt it at exactly half of the max speed (CD-R was up to 48x in my case, so I burnt them at 24x).
You could also try using another drive to burn it, to see if it makes any difference.

Did you install the chip yourself? If you purchased the modded console from someone else, did they test it before they sold it to you?

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 9 03:47:21 2015 No.2279538 >>2278567 I have a SNES RGB cable which I'm going to replace (no shielding) It has fast blanking could I just de-solder that and use it for the PS1 cable?

Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:35:55 2015 No.2282494
File: 253 KB, 1600x1200, 0310151928-00.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hey guys I just bought a copy of star fox from a thrift store. I heard some rattling inside it, but I figured it was the missing metal clip, but instead it was the little capacitor thing (see pic, the little metal thing is the capacitor not a screw, I know my camera sucks).

Is there anyway to re-solder this thing back in? It didnt look damaged but I dont have experience here

Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:46:01 2015 No.2282506

>>2282494
>I figured it was the missing metal clip
This is normal.

>but instead it was the little capacitor thing
Yes, it is a capacitor.
And it leaked and broke off.
It happens a lot on Amigas and it is quite easy to miss as the capacitor looks normal but isn't really connected nor does it's job properly.
You should replace it with an new one, the replacement doesn't need to be SMD but value should be same or higher.
Also clean the whole PCB when doing so.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:46:58 2015 No.2282507 File: 44 KB, 634x324, SNS-FO-0-back_alt2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2282494 You can resolder it yes. I found this small image of what the back of that pcb looks like. Note the black stripe on the cap if you replace it.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:53:25 2015 No.2282515 >>2282506 Thanks for the fast response. Are these called something specific or available anywhere online? When I google snes capacitors I just get info on cleaning them

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:54:49 2015 No.2282518 >>2282507 Thank you too, I was actually using this same imagine as a reference but didnt notice the black stripe

Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:59:03 2015 No.2282521

>>2282515
Electrolytic capacitor.
I think it's 22µF if i read the 22 on the first row of the one in >>2282507 correctly, voltage can be 10v or higher.
Pay attention to the polarity, the - leg should be there where the stripe is.
If you solder it backwards then it might blow up and smell bad.

Anonymous Tue Mar 10 19:59:57 2015 No.2282523
File: 51 KB, 1000x1000, s-l1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2282515
These particular ones are SMD("Surface Mount Device") aluminum electrolytic capacitors. You can generally replace them with regular old radial electrolytic capacitors that look like this to save yourself the trouble. SMD caps are more annoying to solder.

Make sure you get the capacitance and the voltage correctly though and you should try to find low ESR caps.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 20:02:46 2015 No.2282525 >>2282523 >These particular ones Those particular ones* rather

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 20:03:51 2015 No.2282527 >>2282523 Oh and also make sure the stripe is on the correct side or they'll blow up.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 20:16:49 2015 No.2282530 >>2282527 >>2282525 >>2282523 >>2282521 really appreciate all the feedback. Im not a soldering novice but this will be the first time Ill have tried something this small

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 20:19:32 2015 No.2282535 >>2282530 If you can find the original capacitor that was rattling around in the cartridge there should be capacitance and voltages written on it. You can use those to find a suitable replacement.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 10 20:40:01 2015 No.2282553 >>2282535 Yeah I saw them written on it and figured as much. Me and my dad arent bad at fixing electronics so we should be able to get this rolling now that yall have pointed me in the right direction

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 00:21:43 2015 No.2282939 >>2279401 >naturally Then naturally you know enough to have got a chip that works and the problem doesn't exist.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 06:28:26 2015 No.2283324 A friend of mine's PS1 keeps randomly rebooting (while playing Grandia). Is there anything I can do?

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 15:41:08 2015 No.2283957
File: 1.36 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

My friend gave me their model 1 SNES and I hooked it up with some cables and now I'm getting thee red horizontal lines. They don't appear on my SNES mini just this one.

Neither of the cords are first party.
Is this console broke?

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:08:06 2015 No.2284002 >>2283324 try playing it upside down or on its side, the disc laser can get messed up on some discs. Also >>2282506 Whats the best way to clean the capacitor fluid off the PCB on the cartridge?

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:09:08 2015 No.2284004 >>2283324 If its one of the first models you need to use it upside down.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:10:42 2015 No.2284006 >>2284002 >Whats the best way to clean the capacitor fluid off the PCB on the cartridge? Lots of Isopropyl alcohol. Some white vinegar may help if there's corrosion.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:14:08 2015 No.2284012 >>2283957 Are they rolling bars? Make sure the power adapter is rated to put out enough current

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:18:54 2015 No.2284019

>>2284002
>>2284004
Flipping it is only useful when you have read errors.

The plastic rail wears down over time, so the lens isn't held at a steady distance. Flipping it rests it on the bottom of the rail that hasn't worn down yet.

Yes, Sony is retarded for using plastic rails, and for putting the power supply so close to it, so the heat accelerates the process of wearing down.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 16:33:49 2015 No.2284040 >>2283324 I suspect a bad power supply unit

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 18:21:14 2015 No.2284220

I have a Super Nintendo that shows graphical problems whenever I press the right button on the directional pad on the player 1 controller.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EktDO6UzTO4
I've tried multiple controllers as well as swapping out the controller port assembly and ribbon cable for known working ones with no change. I've also tried reflowing the solder joints on the underside of the motherboard for the controller connector, but it hasn't helped. It's one of the earlier SHVC-CPU-01 models with the separate sound module.
Any ideas what could cause this?

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 18:41:19 2015 No.2284253

>>2284220
It looks like the CPU doesn't read the controller properly.
Very weird as every button works except for this one, and it doesn't make much sense as this is a one sided serial transmission where the same bit (8th one is the right button) doesn't stay active but seems to oscillate.

However, inspect pins 32, 35 and 37 on the CPU 5A22.
This is all i can say until you get some controller test program running on that SNES, showing the exact state of the buttons.

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 21:36:53 2015 No.2284475

Forgive me for the non-retro, but I am kind of desperate here.

This is an issue with an original xbox(hueg one).

I have two controllers that I know work 100% well without any issues, but I can't get them to work with my xbox. I also have those xbox live headset adapters that fit into the controller and light up when the controller is connected, so I am sure the controller is properly plugged and receiving power.

If I turn it off and on again, sometimes it works that I can move and press buttons for maybe one or two seconds, but after that it stops working and doesn't work again until I try that procedure several times again.

What could be wrong with it? Certainly it's something in the USB plugs inside it, but I have no idea what to look for.

------------------

Another issue I've been having is related to a 4MB RAM cart I bought for my Saturn. I tried playing Waku Waku 7 but it keeps telling me to plug the RAM cart into the system.

Apparently the Saturn's cart slots can be quite defective sometimes, but is it possible that the cart I bought simply doesn't work/is broken?

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 21:44:18 2015 No.2284487

>>2284475
That particular non retro shit is actually shit. They're very prone to breaking. Good luck.

As for the Saturn it's possible the cart is broke. Far more likely the slot is dirty though. Or Waku Waku 7 may be one of the few games that need a 1mb cart. 4mb may not work. I don't know though. Google it. I think that may be the problem though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 21:46:05 2015 No.2284492 >>2284475 >original xbox Remove its shitty clock capacitor NOW.

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Wed Mar 11 22:32:10 2015 No.2284540 Would I be able to get a confirmation on something? Using a PAL RGB SCART cable on an NTSC Saturn; Would it work, assuming my display has no need for switching/aspect control and would accept composite video for sync?

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:40:07 2015 No.2284556 File: 120 KB, 1200x675, Mega drive.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Can someone explain this shit?

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:46:07 2015 No.2284569 >>2284556 Looks like the back of a late Japanese Megadrive model 1, circa 1990 or 1991. Seems that someone replaced the a/v out with a normal 5-pin DIN though.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:47:32 2015 No.2284572 >>2284492 What is this and why?

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:51:35 2015 No.2284579

>>2284569
On second thought it might not be a replacement. Although I haven't personally seen a MD1 with a 5-pin DIN, the Japanese Saturns came with mono composite cables that used the 5-pin male connector end (from memory anyway).

>>2284540
>Using a PAL RGB SCART cable on an NTSC Saturn; Would it work, assuming my display has no need for switching/aspect control and would accept composite video for sync?

It would depend entirely on your TV. PAL RGB Scart cables are wired to use a pin which is 9v/12v on PAL Saturns, but composite sync on NTSC Saturns. This pin is used for RGB switching. The composite sync signal does not provide enough voltage to work reliably for this purpose: depending on your set, it might
- not work at all (as per spec), and you get composite video
- work, but not stable since the signal does not have a fixed voltage: you'll get the picture blinking in and out as the TV changes between composite and RGB
- or if your TV completely ignores the voltage, it will work with whatever your TV allows it to work as (for ex. manual selection for RGB, stuff like that).

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:52:35 2015 No.2284582

>>2284572
In the original xboxen there is a capacitor that keeps the clock running and apparently the cap has a tendency to go bad and leak nasty acidic crap all over the mobo and can cause the console to fail or act wonky. Usually the first sign is the clock wont keep time I believe.

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:52:49 2015 No.2284584 File: 8 KB, 500x400, saturn.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2284556 Some sort of connector mod? Maybe the guy wanted to use a different wire. >>2284540 Nope.

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:54:54 2015 No.2284587

>>2284475
>>2284487
Waku Waku 7 works with both 1mb and 4mb carts.

Clean the cartridge connector first, then if it still doesn't work, clean the Saturn end of the connector. Most of the times the carts themselves are dirty as shit as well, which is enough for the contacts to be unreliable.

>>2284584
The dude said that his set does not require RGB switching voltage, to switch into RGB. If this is true, then a PAL cable will work on his NTSC Saturn. (the XRGB Frame Meister does not require the switching voltage for example)

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 22:56:24 2015 No.2284591

>>2284253
Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, it looks like this system probably needs the CPU replaced. I had a look at the schematics and checked with a multimeter that each pin from the CPU is connected to the corresponding resistor on the underside of the motherboard and that each of those resistors then connects to the appropriate pin on the connector for the controller daughterboard. There aren't any broken connections, damaged traces, corrosion, or any obvious problems that I can see. I have a little experience with hot air though, so maybe after I practice a bit more on some trashed boards I'll work up the nerve to try replacing the CPU on this one.

Kya !kDashing02 Wed Mar 11 23:04:55 2015 No.2284605

>>2284584
>>2284579
>>2284587
It's a PVM, and the breakout cable is only going to allow R, G, B, whatever is being fed along Pin 20 for sync to actually get to the monitor itself.

I just wanted to confirm and make sure I'm not overlooking something incredibly stupid and
>- or if your TV completely ignores the voltage, it will work with whatever your TV allows it to work as (for ex. manual selection for RGB, stuff like that)
does just that.

Thanks.

Anonymous Wed Mar 11 23:08:16 2015 No.2284613

>>2284605
Not sure about the pin out for a PAL Saturn. I just know you get sync from a different pin.
>>2284587
Can you confirm? I'm the guy who mentioned that and after goggling there's some posts saying you need the 1mb cart.

Also the guy that posted that pic. Look at the pin outs. A PAL cable wont work. It's using the wrong pin for sync.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 00:18:33 2015 No.2284703 >>2284605 pin 20 is wired with composite on official PAL SCART Saturn cables. If yours isn't an official, make sure it is, else you migh fry some circuits with 9v on the sync input

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 00:20:46 2015 No.2284706 >>2284556 pic of id sticker ? Looks like an DIY repair with a guy that didn't find a U-DIN

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 01:03:38 2015 No.2284771
File: 2.12 MB, 3264x2448, 20140415_182514.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

two questions,

1.My friends NES starts to make the room smell like tuna after being on for 10-20 minutes. Any idea what could be causing this?

2. My HD model 1 Genesis has the vertical rainbow bar shit. Pic related, from the 240p test suit, obviously I've never seen it anywhere near this bad in-game.
I'd like to fix this myself, but I've never soldered before. Is that a tough job?

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 01:59:35 2015 No.2284845

Slightly offtopic, but,

Is it possible to rip FMV scenes from a Saturn .iso? I'm playing a particularly frustrating h-game where you have to play a solid 20+ minutes of mahjong before you can see 5 seconds of animation. Not at all worth the effort.

Don't judge me.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 02:04:58 2015 No.2284856 >>2284771 The video encoder on the genesis model 1 is notorious for rainbow banding. higher quality signal like s-video or rgb would aid the banding.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 02:09:47 2015 No.2284869 >>2284771 Your friend heard some models of NES were toasters and tried to toast a tuna sandwich in it.

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 02:35:02 2015 No.2284912

>>2284845
Forgot to mention, when browsing the disc on my computer, the files have a number of extensions that I'm unfamiliar with (.vd, .fnt, .pal, .anm... I'm assuming .anm is what I'm looking for, since they have the largest filesizes, but I have no idea how to open them or convert them into something viewable.).

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 05:15:21 2015 No.2285039 >>2284912 The .anm files are what you're looking for. How you play them depends on what software you can run. Deluxe Paint Animation is what they were done in. We are all judging you. And wondering what game it is.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 12:16:49 2015 No.2285390 >>2284771 >1.My friends NES starts to make the room smell like tuna after being on for 10-20 minutes. Any idea what could be causing this? Check the capacitors. Does the rest of the system work fine?

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 12:44:25 2015 No.2285426

>>2284613
Waku Waku 7 works fine both with 1mb cart and action replay. No difference between the two. I had an original disc of it (sold it in the bst threads), it works fine with an action replay.
Also note that all 1mb games will BOOT with a 4mb cart, it's just that 2-3 of them will end up having glitches with a 4mb card. But Waku Waku is not one of them.
If the game is saying it can't see the cartridge, then you need to clean the cartridge, and the cart slot.

>Also the guy that posted that pic. Look at the pin outs. A PAL cable wont work. It's using the wrong pin for sync.

PAL SCART cables will work on NTSC Saturns as long as your TV ignores the RGB UP voltages. THEN AND ONLY THEN will they work.

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 12:51:40 2015 No.2285431

>>2285426
I wouldn't be that sure about Waku Waku 7. Action Replay and the 4mb aren't comparable.

>PAL SCART cables will work on NTSC Saturns as long as your TV ignores the RGB UP voltages. THEN AND ONLY THEN will they work.
The pin for c video sync is different isn't it?

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 14:14:11 2015 No.2285503 >>2285039 I actually found a decent quality rip of the scenes online. Scenes are kind of shitty actually. Game is called GAL JAN, I found the vid just by doing a google video search of the japanese title (妖艶電視麻雀遊戯).

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 14:29:13 2015 No.2285516

>>2285431
>The pin for c video sync is different isn't it?

Yes, and the PAL cables are wired with that in mind, they use that 9v pin for RGB UP voltage. NTSC machines carry c-sync instead, which doesn't give enough/any voltage, so the cables will end up with either composite video, or rgb being randomly triggered on/off giving you an unstable video signal. That is why PAL Saturn Scart cables will only work on NTSC Saturn if your set does not require the RGB UP voltage.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 15:37:05 2015 No.2285610 >>2285516 That's what I thought. The other guy is saying they work though...

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 12 18:32:45 2015 No.2285858 >>2285610 an official PAL cable would work on a NTSC Saturn, if the tv/monitor accepts composite video as the sync signal (most do).

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 18:49:02 2015 No.2285884

>>2285390
I dont exactly have it with me, but the system works just fine. Its just that it literally makes the room smell like tuna. I popped it open last time I was there and I don't remember any of the caps being busted. Though I was mainly looking to see if there was something that had been shoved inside of it that was being melted, like animal hair or something. But I never found anything like that either.

>>2284856
I'm aware. I've been told that replacing the caps would fix it, and I'm contemplating doing that. I'm just asking if its something that someone relatively unskilled at soldering could do.
If so then I'll either order one of the kits, or get the parts individually.

Then I'll start thinking about doing A/V mods.

Anonymous Thu Mar 12 21:51:05 2015 No.2286124
File: 2.32 MB, 3264x2448, 20150312_203740.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2285884
bit of an update, I opened up my Genesis and found this at the top of the volume slider. Could it be possible that this is the sole cause of my rainbow banding? Or is this just something else/only part of the issue?

Model 1, HD graphics VA2 from 1989 if that helps anyone.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 00:53:27 2015 No.2286312 >>2285858 i'm pretty sure this doesn't work, and is bad advice

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 01:36:18 2015 No.2286358 >>2286124 If you mean that nasty-looking cap in the middle of the shot, then yeah, it's entirely possible.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 02:02:02 2015 No.2286379 File: 1.54 MB, 960x1280, Ascendance.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2286124 I wonder what the Sony-branded chip was responsible for.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 02:47:23 2015 No.2286409 >>2286312 explain why it wouldn't.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 03:44:09 2015 No.2286448 >>2286409 http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/ntsc-saturn-and-pal-scart-leads/

Anonymous Fri Mar 13 10:07:33 2015 No.2286793

>>2284002
>>2284004

I heard that worked, but it's not a satisfying solution. Also, I'd say the console itself is neither a new or old model: there is still the connector on the back to plug in an action replay, but the boot menu is the colorful version, not the old grey and blocky version.

>>2284040

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to switch the power supply unit with one from my previous ps1 to check.

Anonymous Fri Mar 13 16:04:25 2015 No.2287287

So I recently decided to give my perfectly working Intellivision to some local folks I know to mod it for A/V sure enough they did it and it works fantastically.

Except for one thing. The directional pad/discs aren't working. I opened up the controllers and cleaned all of the membrane contacts. All of the buttons work fine but the directional pads. What do?

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 13 20:44:46 2015 No.2287667 >>2287287 Is it the first model, or one of the ones with removable controllers?

Anonymous Sat Mar 14 00:47:43 2015 No.2287969

>>2286379
Yes, that's the cap I'm talking about. I've got a replacement for it already, and I'll probably fix it in a few days.
>>2286358
Its part of the audio pre-amp on model 1's. Normally its a Sony CX1034, but but for some reason mine is different, despite still being a VA2. I was going to do a stereo audio mod, but I'm holding off until I can determine if the pin layout would be the same (so if anyone knows, don't hesitate to tell me).

Anonymous Sat Mar 14 09:35:57 2015 No.2288396

Not quite retro, but fuck it. I just found out that two of my almost brand new Dualshock 2 controllers that I use for emulation as well as the actual PS2 games are fucked.

One of them was never used, I just tested it to work perfectly couple years ago when I bought it for cheap. It was brand new, just bulk packed, and has just been sitting in my closet all this time. Now when I pulled it out, the buttons on the left are dead; D-pad, L1 and L2.
The other controller isn't dead, but the right side buttons, Triangle, Circle, R1 and R2 need to be pressed fully for them to register at all. This one I've used more and it's a year older, and it had no problems before now.

Why do they shit themselves without me touching them? They're both official Sony controllers too.

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 01:46:23 2015 No.2289806
File: 49 KB, 500x356, 1413043243072.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I've spent the last hour attempting to disc swap for an import I bought for a friend, Mermanoid, on PSX.

I've watched videos throughout the last week - and we've watched videos as we've attempted to get this disc to load into the console but we're not able to get anything to appear.

In a nutshell after the second swap it seems the NSTC-J game is causing problems. The disc keeps spinning at 2x after the third swap.

My console is a SPCH-7501 and from what I've read is that the disc swapping method works regardless of which console we are using.

At this point I think it's time to mod the console ourselves.

I'm seeing MM3 mentioned in this thread. I did a google search and I'm seeing links to EurAsia - is there a specific chip I should be buying?

I apologize if I sound clueless. I'm just trying my best to get this import to work for my friend since the game was a birthday gift.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 01:58:58 2015 No.2289820 >>2289806 I have the same model PSX and I've tried doing the swap trick with my Game Shark and I can't get it to work with foreign games or burnt discs.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 03:34:23 2015 No.2289890 >>2287667 First model

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 03:39:15 2015 No.2289894

>>2289820
Does this mean that this model cannot read import games?

I thought that PSone was able to work with the disc swap method?

I'm afraid if I buy a modchip and attempt to mod my console I won't be able to play imports.

I would really like to get this imported game to run on a NA console without buying a JP model so my friend can play this physical copy of a Japanese game.

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 03:53:00 2015 No.2289906

>>2289806
>>2289820
>>2289894

My advise is since you have an early playstation is to get either a gameshark pro or action replay. You can also get a chinese clone off ebay for a few bucks.

I have a SCPH-7001 playstation with a "game converter" I bought on ebay and my playstation plays backup games just fine so it should work for imports as well.

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 03:59:58 2015 No.2289909

>>2289906
Isn't the SPCH-7501 a later model in the PSX line?

>I have a SCPH-7001 playstation with a "game converter" I bought on ebay and my playstation plays backup games just fine so it should work for imports as well.

How do you mean "game converter"?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 05:17:23 2015 No.2289987 >>2288396 I had one like that a brand new one and it was just dead on arrival

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 06:29:10 2015 No.2290037

>>2289987

My friend also bought one PS2 controller from the same place and it was full dead, but he got a replacement. I thought I was fine when I tested my controller and it worked completely fine then.

I have no clue how it can just break by itself after couple years being in room temperature and its own plastic bag, hidden away from all harm.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 07:11:14 2015 No.2290081 File: 2.74 MB, 4128x2322, IMG_20150313_184202:nopm:.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] Any tips on removing service mount chips without flux Jaguar console of ebay

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 07:41:11 2015 No.2290113 >>2290081 Buy flux Use something that works like flux but technically isn't flux

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 08:37:50 2015 No.2290180

>>2289909
The SPCH-7501 is the last North American PSX to have the parallel port on the back which the hardware based Action Replays and GameSharks used. The SPCH-9001 was the first one to have the parallel port removed, and the later SCPH-101 (the slim PSOne) also removed the serial port.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 11:31:38 2015 No.2290331 >>2290081 heat gun or hot air soldering iron. be sure to not have plastic near....

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 12:21:06 2015 No.2290386

>>2290180
I understand now.

I'm having trouble finding the device for less than 20 dollars. It seems that installing a modchip would be a lot cheaper.

Everything I have read over so far tells me that I shouldn't run into any major problems when installing an MM3 into my SPCH-7501, is this true?

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 12:51:59 2015 No.2290421

>>2290081
it'll be ugly, but you can try cutting all the pins as close to the chip as possible, then soldering a socket to the pins sticking out of the board.

the chip might have scorched the internal traces inside the board underneath it, though, so no guarantees.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 15:00:09 2015 No.2290604 >>2290081 Since you're not trying to save the chip, just use the tip of the soldering iron to pry the legs off. Don't get too zealous and jab anything else.

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 15:15:19 2015 No.2290630

>>2285858
>an official PAL cable would work on a NTSC Saturn, if the tv/monitor accepts composite video as the sync signal (most do).

an official PAL cable will get you composite video on a NTSC Saturn.

UNLESS your set can take RGB video without needing RGB UP voltage in the scart connector. Then you'll get RGB.
But most sets do not. In fact most sets will just try switching back and forth very fast, getting you an unstable signal.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 15:30:04 2015 No.2290668 >>2290630 the guy was asking for a PVM, which only cares for RGBS

Anonymous Sun Mar 15 16:29:57 2015 No.2290783

Will these universal power supplies for retro systems wreck your consoles? Would like to cut down on the number of cables required to hooking up all my retro systems. And what's the best way of handling all these video connections? I can't hook everything up to my CRT simultaneously.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 17:19:39 2015 No.2290893 >>2290421 Not to go full autist on you but SMD pins don't exactly stick out of the board do they? Once cut from the chip they can easily be removed one by one. It's actually a pretty common technique.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 15 17:31:41 2015 No.2290919 not sure where to ask this so I'll just ask here can you create different profiles with scp driver for ps3 controller? like, I want to be able to set certain keyboard keys to certain buttons and have different profiles for different games

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 02:03:28 2015 No.2291672 >>2290919 Def not retro at all

Anonymous Mon Mar 16 02:32:48 2015 No.2291694

>>2291672
>Implying he's not using that PS3 controller on his PC, and wants different profiles for different retro games.

Which is exactly what he asked.
>>2290919

Not sure, but with xPadder or ControlMK, you can have different profiles saved, for different games.

Anonymous Mon Mar 16 06:59:22 2015 No.2291850 [DELETED]

Hi, I've got a question about a PS2 game I bought recently: Taz Mania.

It came with Ecco the Dolphin too, and this game plays really well, but when I tried Taz mania, the PS2 starts spinning real quickly, and this amuses me. I've googles the issue and it turns out to the that the blue covered PS2 disc are CD-rom based, and those are writen in x24, that's why the console starts to spin so furiously.

So my question is: Is this spinning harmful for the console? Is this fixable? because I didn't get any good answer on google. I have a slim PS2 with a Matrix chip v.1.93

Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 16 16:42:00 2015 No.2292528

Finally got around to grabbing a game to test a Game Gear I bought last year.

Are vertical lines coming off of bright items on the screen normal, or is that one of the issues that the caps going on the thing cause?

I'm planning on doing a full cap replacement on it anyway, but I'm just curious as to what to expect afterwards.
Audio could definitely use it, very quiet.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 16:51:49 2015 No.2292541 >>2292528 Quite a few screen issues, as well as audio issues and power issues can be traced back to failing caps. Chances are, if something isn't working right, a cap kit will fix it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 19:27:10 2015 No.2292789 Extremely uneducated and ignorant question, but i have a snes, and I am curious as to how much work/money it would take to turn it into an emulator/modded system.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 19:33:07 2015 No.2292798 >>2292789 If you're trying to turn a working system into an emulator shell, there are people here that would lynch you.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 19:37:00 2015 No.2292802 >>2292798 Eh, I have 9 snes systems. My dad was somewhat of a collector, plus this one is all yellow with sunstains and shit.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 19:48:55 2015 No.2292814 >>2292802 Yellowed is easy to reverse, and that should be done even if you're planning on painting it. Whitening using peroxide helps remove the brittleness that yellowing causes.

Anonymous Mon Mar 16 19:57:08 2015 No.2292825

>>2292814
Well, I only mentioned it in hope to deter the fags who would care how i play my vidya. I don't mind yellowing as this is the only system me and my dad played together before he passed, and it's covered in stickers. Thank you for the advice though buddy.

Anonymous Mon Mar 16 20:42:46 2015 No.2292885
File: 100 KB, 640x480, 28117145.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I bought a Model 1 Genesis which has some nasty rainbow banding artifacts. Would the process of modding my Model 1 to output S-video circumvent this issue? If not, is there another solution?
(Not my pic, but it looks more or less the same.)

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:10:12 2015 No.2292932 >>2292885 RGB SCART

Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:13:36 2015 No.2292938

>>2292825
Just be gentle with it in that case. The more yellow it is, the more fragile it gets, and it's easy to accidentally break it when working on it.

Cost and effort depends entirely on what you're doing, but none of it should be overly expensive.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:13:43 2015 No.2292939 >>2292885 RGB is easier if your TV supports it. Otherwise, yes, s-video would fix that. You could also use a 32x, which uses the RGB signal out of the Genesis and has a better composite encoder in it.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:28:39 2015 No.2292961 Saw all these question about modern game consoles gets me wonder... where is the correct place to ask about technical issues of modern games consoles here in 4chan?

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 16 21:32:11 2015 No.2292965 >>2292961 Best bets would /g/ or /diy/ and neither a very good or reliable answers.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:32:17 2015 No.2292967 >>2292961 Technically /v/ but they probably wouldn't offer any useful advice. /diy/ is probably much more reliable.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:34:17 2015 No.2292972 >>2292965 /g/ is pretty much useless as far as electronics. /diy/ is pretty handy but I don't know if they'd know how to deal with video game consoles.

Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 16 21:36:29 2015 No.2292979

>>2292972
Like I said, neither are that great of answers. Both require quite a bit of luck to say the least; /g/ would be at least marginally more likely to have some sort of vidya related knowledge, but /diy/ would in all likelihood be the more handy of the two.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 16 21:42:32 2015 No.2292985 >>2292972 I try to recommend the message board on the wiki, with a post here to let people know they have a question there. This obviously works, 100% of the time.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 17 10:43:08 2015 No.2293724 >>2290081 Might just buy flux. Thx for responses

Anonymous Tue Mar 17 17:15:54 2015 No.2294273

>>2292961
Guy who runs the wiki here. I suggest posting on the message board and telling us in this thread as >>2292985 said. You'll notice no one has done this yet, but you could be the first! And that might motivate me to put more work into the forums and wiki in general.

I've tried making the argument before that allowing a few modern console questions in these threads should be tolerated since there's no viable alternative, and the posts complaining about discussing modern consoles typically outnumber the posts about modern consoles themselves. Of course, this has fallen on deaf ears.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 19 00:38:33 2015 No.2296905 >>2292932 >>2292939 I don't know much about scart. Does anyone know where I could get one for an NTSC genesis? Also, would an unpowered scart to A/V adapter suffice, or would I need a powered converter box?

Kya !kDashing02 Thu Mar 19 00:45:45 2015 No.2296913

>>2296905
>Does anyone know where I could get one for an NTSC genesis?
Ebay, varying from extremely shitty but cheap <10 cables to ~$25 hand made ones.

>Also, would an unpowered scart to A/V adapter suffice, or would I need a powered converter box?
You would either need a tv/monitor capable of accepting RGB straight up or a transcoder to turn it into YPbPr component; And a tv capable of accepting that as well.
The transcoder would need its own power source.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 20 16:05:00 2015 No.2299223 bump

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 20 20:12:59 2015 No.2299628 >>2296913 I power my RGB->YPbPr from the Genesis video port.

Anonymous Fri Mar 20 22:37:34 2015 No.2299816
File: 74 KB, 610x395, 1426221629245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have a SNES with a permanent hum/buzz noise, it even does it when no game is inserted, but it does it louder when there's a game. It sounds no matter what type of cable I'm using (Scart, RCA, S-video) and I'm using the original AC Adapter. Both the cables and the AC has been used on other snes without problems, just this one has this issue so it has to be internal.

What could cause a buzz sound on a SNES?

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 20 22:59:01 2015 No.2299829 >>2292965 /g/ is useless for everything except shitposting.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:04:47 2015 No.2300895 File: 1.26 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_1298.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2299816 Ok so, I opened it up and found it pretty dirty, however this cap looks in a specially bad shape, could this be the culprit?

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:07:45 2015 No.2300901 >>2300895 >>2299816 It's probably fucked. Replace caps THEN check the 7805 voltage and see if the humming sound is still there.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:09:04 2015 No.2300904 >>2300895 Whether it is or isn't you're still going to want to replace that since it appears to be leaking electrolytic fluid and will probably ruin the board if it hasn't already.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:15:03 2015 No.2300910 >>2300901 >>2300904 It's named C81 and says "10, 16A, 3NM" does anybody knows or has a list of cap values?

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:16:33 2015 No.2300913 >>2300910 Oh, my bad it is C61, my eyesight is shit, apparently it is: C61 10uf 16v Gonna change it then.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:23:10 2015 No.2300921 >>2300913 4th gen stuff is pretty well documented. You can find the capacitance, voltage, and esr/tanδ/esr ratings and then find replacements.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 16:26:29 2015 No.2300931 >>2300921 *impedance oops

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 20:45:42 2015 No.2301298

I just acquired a Neo Geo CD (missing the CD lid) and an NG AES arcade stick. I think I know what I'm doing with the stick (gonna open it up, clean out the old gunk and put it back together), but the NGCD didn't come with a power supply. Looking around, I figured out that a HDD molex power adapter will provide the load required, but I'm having trouble figuring out how I'm going to hook it up. Any suggestions?

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 20:50:27 2015 No.2301302

>>2301298
You mean a PC power supply? Molex has 5v, 12v, and ground. So if that's what you need then it may work. Problem is I doubt the Neo Geo CD pulls more than 2 amps. So something like an ATX power supply will be horribly inefficient and may provide the wrong voltage. It's also going to have 20+ amps which will fry that console good if you short anything.

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 20:53:34 2015 No.2301304

>>2301302
uh no, I wouldn't hook an ATX to it. What I meant was: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-AC-Adapter-12V-5V-For-HARD-DISK-Drive-Power-Supply-/300567122392?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fb3251d8
according to a source, these ones put out 12V and 5V at 2 amps each (no matter which seller you go with). I know the connector on the NGCD was an LA-2001, but I'm fairly sure they've not been manufactured for years.

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:00:29 2015 No.2301314

>>2301304
It's a chicom special. It may be under voltage with the console. I don't know the power schematic of the Neo Geo CD. Google seems to say 10v and 5v. So it may be good may not. Depends on the tolerance, voltage regulator, etc.

Either way that's a trash power supply.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:02:54 2015 No.2301316 >>2301314 better than whipping out a giant ATX PSU at this point. If I could into electronics, I'd build my own power adapter, but that ain't happening any time soon. I might just replace the stock power connector with a molex connector or something

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:09:10 2015 No.2301321

>>2301316
There's no point even for anyone to build their own power supply from scratch. Unless you need some really odd and voltage.
Just adapt an existing power supply.

I wouldn't use ac adapters from china though. Just asking for a house fire. Zero testing and q/c.

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:13:20 2015 No.2301328

>>2301321
at this point, considering order an adapter from ebay would cost more than what I paid for the system, and combined with the fact that the NGCD ac adapters tend to age poorly, I think I'm gonna try to make a female plug and wire it up with 5+, 12+ and ground. Alternatively, look around for a mainstream 3 pin plug and connector and spice the whole thing together.

On a similar topic, do you think I could get the NGCD's mainboard (CD and audio are powered with the 10V rail) powered up off an samsung usb charger that puts out 5V at 2.1 amps?

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:20:22 2015 No.2301341

>>2301328
Ya that would work. I wouldn't use it as a permanent solution though. Have 2 ac adapters. 1 for 5v and one for 10v or 12v w/e the console takes.

2 adapters can be a permanent solution and a very good one but usb chargers aren't that great long term.

Retro consoles rarely need more than 1amp. Usually just the 5th gen and CD based consoles need a bit more.

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:28:23 2015 No.2301349

>>2301341
yeah I don't want to make it a permanent power supply, I just want to see if it even boots up. Since I already ordered a HK PSU last night, I dunno if there's any point in ordering http://www.ebay.ca/itm/External-Power-Supply-12V-DC-4-Pin-Molex-Adapter-Cable-/360170366699 as well, since I'm fairly sure it's the same generic power brick.
On the plus side, I think I've found connectors to replace the stock NGCD one:
http://www.rpelectronics.com/p303cct-p-p-cct-series-3-pin-plug-with-cable-clamp.html
http://www.rpelectronics.com/s303cct-p-s-cct-series-3-pin-inline-jack.html

Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:33:06 2015 No.2301352

>>2301349
Ya I reread that post and are you asking if it will power up with just 1 voltage input? That depends. Some consoles will and some wont. Like a Saturn pretty much uses it's 9v line for motors so just 3.3v and 5v are needed to power it on for a short while.

Like I said I have no idea on the schematic for the Neo Geo stuff.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 21 21:37:01 2015 No.2301357 >>2301352 well it's probably easier just to pull it apart and look for problems (ie the fucking capacitors being dead) than it is to wire it. I think I'll do that instead.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 01:23:48 2015 No.2301710 NeoGeo CD guy here, I just realized I have a massive problem. And that is, I have no way of keeping the disc on the spindle because there's no lid with a spinner on it to provide pressure. Does anyone have any suggestions?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 02:00:34 2015 No.2301761 >>2301710 Magnets

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 02:04:17 2015 No.2301767 >>2301761 anon pls that's actually fucking smart. I just to find powerful earth magnets

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 04:40:31 2015 No.2301938

>>2301767
The original console just uses a simple doughnut magnet. Same goes for the PCE, MCD and most other clamshell devices that don't have a clip in mechanism. I use a spare one from an old PCE for testing. A similarly shaped washer with a tiny modern magnet should work as well.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 04:46:35 2015 No.2301947 >>2301938 like a ferrite magnet or a neodymium magnet?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 05:24:34 2015 No.2301964 >>2301710 >>2301938 salvage one from an old pc cdrom drive

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 06:57:29 2015 No.2302007

>>2301947
Not sure what they're make of. My guess is ceramic. It has to hold less than an ounce in place rotating at a couple hundred RPM. So maybe not your average fridge magnet but not much more.

>>2301964
Probably not worth the effort to save the 25 cents or whatever it costs to just buy one.

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 20:40:33 2015 No.2303073
File: 2.06 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150323_101607[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Hi I bought a PAL SNES the other day, didn't come with cords but I have my own that work fine. System turns on only to have white vertical lines down the screen (see pic). I did a bit of reading online and it said caps could be bad so I checked them (with my eye) and there are none bulging/leaking. Cleaned up fluff/shit all over the board but that didn't do anything ~post cont...

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 20:45:25 2015 No.2303081
File: 3.10 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150323_101625[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2303073
basically asking if this is a specific problem and what I should look at first. Was thinking of swapping out the cartridge slot for a working one to see if that's the problem, would that help? There are traces on the mainboard (pictured but its hard to see what i'm talking about) that are black instead of the yellowy/gold they normally are coming out of the 'S-PPU 2' chip, could that be doing it?

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 20:47:34 2015 No.2303084
File: 2.85 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150323_102211[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2303081
closeup of the black traces (maybe corroded?) I'm not really experienced in this stuff so I don't know if this is just cosmetic. Any help would be great.

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 21:03:30 2015 No.2303110

Hey guys, i recently found my old game boy color and my 3 games from someone who apparently stole it when we were both young like 12 years ago (fucking god).

My pokemon blue is obviously corrupted.
All the sprites are black boxes, and it sort of freezes every now and then. No saving ability of course. I know I can replace the battery, but has anyone ever heard of these other problems?
I've cleaned the cartridge, but it's the same problem.
I'd love to play through the game again.

Anonymous Sun Mar 22 21:36:19 2015 No.2303162
File: 6 KB, 336x329, HM62256[1].gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2303084
Yes, it would be likely.
These are pins 61 and 63.
In the fullsnes documentation:
>60-67 SRAM VDA0-VDA7 (sram data lower 8bit)
You might be able to bridge these to the right RAM chip, you should measure the continuity of the neighbor pins to see to which chip they go then solder a thin wire to the right pin.
Also here's the pinout of the RAM.

>>2303110
You should open the cart. Maybe the battery leaked and damaged the traces.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 21:38:55 2015 No.2303170 >>2303162 is there a way to do so without that special tool?

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 21:46:16 2015 No.2303180 >>2303170 Maybe with tweezers that grip into the grooves but that could be hard to do. What would work better would be to take a flat screwdriver and cut a notch in the middle that it will grip into the grooves.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 22 21:57:07 2015 No.2303197 >>2303180 >>2303162 I opened and closed it, doesn't look like any leaking or anything. I have no idea what could have happened to it over those several years, but I'll try replacing the battery anyway

Anonymous Mon Mar 23 01:49:46 2015 No.2303543
File: 1.19 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150323_153849.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2303162
I used a multimeter on the contracts came up short so we attempted to bridge it between the leg of the chip and the pin hole thought it'd test it even though the solder didn't really sick. Good news is that it seems to have gotten rid of the line problem and it's not the chip that's a did. Bad news is I think we made a contact to another pin and now the text and tiles are garbled (see PIC)

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 01:51:55 2015 No.2303548 File: 2.94 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150323_153929.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2303543 Pic of the botched mod. Any tips?

Anonymous Mon Mar 23 02:11:08 2015 No.2303573

Auto correct fucked me up
>I used a multimeter and one of the contacts came up short so we attempted to bridge it between the leg of the chip and the pin hole. I thought it'd test it even though the solder didn't really sick. Good news is that it seems to have gotten rid of the line problem and it's not the chip that's a dud. Bad news is I think we made a contact to another pin and now the text and tiles are garbled (see PIC)

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 03:18:42 2015 No.2303661 >>2303548 Do you even know what flux is? Why didn't you use individual threads of that wire?

Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 23 05:01:29 2015 No.2303759
File: 194 KB, 800x598, 16224794378_1a5168743b_c[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Would someone a bit more electrically inclined be able to answer something for me?

If I were trying to power this lm1881 circuit over usb, with RCA connectors applied to the signal in and signal out points, what would be the proper way to connect ground? Would tying all three (one for each RCA connector and one for the USB connection) together to that same pad be correct?

There's something going round in my head (likely having to do with AC rather than DC) saying that might be a very bad and wrong notion.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 06:48:11 2015 No.2303825 >>2303759 all grounds should be connected together.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 06:56:08 2015 No.2303834 >>2303548 Kill it and put it out of it's misery >>2303759 Shouldn't be any AC involved here. Don't power it directly from the mains and you'll be fine. huehue There's only one ground on the 1881 so all grounds have only one place to go.

Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 23 07:19:52 2015 No.2303849

>>2303825
>>2303834
>Shouldn't be any AC involved here
I know that, I just meant that specific thought process.

Either way, that's what I thought; Thanks.

Was going to just toss it into my breakout cable, but that'll prevent me from using it for PS1 games until I can get a SCART cable for it; This way I'll be able to use it with my 1001 and a set of component cables for now.

Anonymous Mon Mar 23 07:31:07 2015 No.2303857

>>2303548
Practice SMD soldering with some random dead circuit board with similar looking chips.
Use flux and desoldering wick and carefully redo your work.
And measure your work:
http://problemkaputt.de/fullsnes.htm#snespinoutsppuchips

>>2303834
>Kill it and put it out of it's misery
It still shows a picture, which means that the CPU, PPU, Video encoder, APU are still working somewhat.
And it's still a better condition to work with than a SNES that doesn't show anything at all where one single thing to everything could have failed.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 08:52:45 2015 No.2303913 >>2303073 >>2303081 >>2303084 >>2303543 >>2303548 >>2303834 >>2303857 So we redid the mod with a piece of copper wire and now it's working fine, thanks everybody

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 16:06:12 2015 No.2304481 since gba is not retro: http://forums.gametechwiki.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9

Anonymous Mon Mar 23 21:21:44 2015 No.2305025
File: 140 KB, 2000x1473, 2000px-Dreamcast_logo.svg.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

so I'm having some weird problem with my sega dreamcast. it keeps resetting on me. I could be playing for a few minutes, then the console will just decide to rest itself. then it will keep resetting on a loop. it was working fine yesterday and the days before. just this morning it started happening. what do /vr/? its happened on two different games, so it seems to be a console thing rather than a game thing.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 21:40:58 2015 No.2305067 I got a Mario All Stars cartridge that I can't get to run, I opened it up and didn't found anything out of place, everything seems to be in order, would replacing the battery do anything to help?

>>	Kya !kDashing02 Mon Mar 23 22:45:15 2015 No.2305181 >>2303825 >>2303834 New question: Assuming a standard DC power connector with positive and negative; Positive to Vcc, negative to ground?

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 23:14:52 2015 No.2305238 >>2305181 Yes.

Anonymous Mon Mar 23 23:58:19 2015 No.2305310

Where do you get your parts at? Mouser is a bit overwhelming for someone who knows jack and shit about electronics, and Radioshack is bankrupt/almost all cellphones now.
I'm looking to do some cap replacements on a genesis and gamegear, and either component or S-video on everything else.

Also, are there any sites similar to this:
https://oshpark.com/
I know GameTech and a few others like him get boards from these kinds of places. Preferably somewhere cheaper.

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 23 23:59:57 2015 No.2305314 >>2305025 this works for me https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOzyKXkMNNg

Anonymous Tue Mar 24 00:23:16 2015 No.2305347
File: 1.78 MB, 2448x604, biffed it.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2305310
While I'm here, one of the pins in my SNES jr. is fucked. As far as I can tell it works just fine, or at least it works with all the games I currently own. But it still bothers the shit out of me and I'd like to replace it. Is there a way I can get a new one without cannibalizing another SNES?

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 24 02:36:38 2015 No.2305461 >>2305067 No if the battery was dead all that would be not working is saving. Clean the contacts finger with contact cleaner/a rubber.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 24 02:39:26 2015 No.2305469 >>2305347 probably best to buy a cheap/broken snes and swap them out (really easy because they just slide off) because the unofficial replacement ones are some cheap metal and will damage your carts apparently.

Kya !kDashing02 Tue Mar 24 02:48:12 2015 No.2305480

>>2305238
Thanks. Everything went together perfectly.

>>2305310
>I'm looking to do some cap replacements on a genesis and gamegear
Haven't used them myself, but http://console5.com/store/kits/console-cap-kits/sega.html
Shipping seems decent enough.

>>2305469
Do you think the cart slot from the original model would work correctly in a mini? I've never thought to compare the way they're mounted when poking around inside, but I wouldn't be surprised if Nintendo had made a few changes.

Anonymous Tue Mar 24 03:30:32 2015 No.2305513

>>2305480
>Do you think the cart slot from the original model would work correctly in a mini? I've never thought to compare the way they're mounted when poking around inside, but I wouldn't be surprised if Nintendo had made a few changes.

Not sure dude. I just finished cleaning out a PAL SNES and thankfully removing the cartridge slot is solderless.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 24 03:41:24 2015 No.2305520 >>2305025 >>2305314 Seconded. Bending the pins worked for me back in the day. I've heard from hundreds who swear by the fix and zero people for whom it failed, and it's piss-easy. At worst, you won't do any harm bending the pins a little.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 24 06:04:48 2015 No.2305602 >>2305513 some are solderless, some are not. I think you need a solderarble connector for the jr

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 25 04:34:37 2015 No.2307574 >>2305480 >>2305602 Nintendo did make a few changes the SNES Jr. and most of the first generation SNES where all hard wired right to the board and non removable. Only a few early SNES models had fully removable cartage slots

>>	Anonymous Wed Mar 25 17:03:25 2015 No.2308353 I'm trying to replace my old tattered GBA SP shell with a third party shell. Anyone have any recommendations? I'm looking for white or black.

Anonymous Wed Mar 25 17:07:16 2015 No.2308361
File: 195 KB, 1454x740, 1267789678463456647678.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Is there a way to make one of the c-buttons on an n64 controller not press down all the way? either by modifying the membrane or board itself? The particular reason is I want one of the c buttons to consistently short-hop for smash 64 and the others remain the same.

Anonymous Wed Mar 25 20:29:15 2015 No.2308647

>>2308361
>Is there a way to make one of the c-buttons on an n64 controller not press down all the way?
Yes

>reason is I want one of the c buttons to consistently short-hop for smash 64
Making a button not press all the way down will make it not work. It will not make it do a short hop.

It sounds like what you want is a one shot circuit. This would make the button it's attached to input a quick press and release regardless of how long you held it, ensuring a short hop.

And there's always the obligatory solution of git gud.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 19:22:16 2015 No.2310656 >>2308647 >And there's always the obligatory solution of git gud. lol yes I know. Thanks for the reply though

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 20:04:55 2015 No.2310730 >>2292965 /g/ is more knowledgeable with software rather than hardware. >>2299829 not 100% true, I browse /g/ daily and while there is shitposting in their daily windows vs mac vs bsd vs linux threads, shitposting more often then not gets called out.

Anonymous Thu Mar 26 21:33:56 2015 No.2310872
File: 653 KB, 640x480, Weird DK glitch.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I was playing a bit of DKC on my SNES Jr and I just noticed that part of this cave, you can see the back ground.

What gives?

Turned up the brightness and captured this though my capture card. It's more noticeable on the TV

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 22:39:35 2015 No.2311046 >>2310872 bad tiling and maybe incorrect color range levels on the tv. bad tiling you can't do nothing, color level, check if your tv has a setting like "color range / levels" and set it on limited/normal or something like that.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 22:43:17 2015 No.2311053 >>2311046 I'm more bothered the fact that it's there. Is my copy messed up or does every copy of DKC have this?

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 22:59:29 2015 No.2311091 >>2311053 they just didn't bother to make a clean cut on those tiles. And wrong color levels can reveal it even more And yeah, all copies will have it.

>>	Anonymous Thu Mar 26 23:01:01 2015 No.2311096 >>2311091 Ah, Just was wondering. I just never noticed it before. Admittedly my SNES JR has had issues reading cartridges but it seems to have cleared up after a good scrub down with a cleaning kit

Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:29:19 2015 No.2311602

My PS2 Slim is having some issues with loading. It's not constant, but every now and then when switching between rooms or initiating a battle in a video game, it loads real slow. Most of the time it's a second or so, real fast, but sometimes it can take upto 15 seconds or more.

My PS2 isn't kicking the bucket is it? That would be pretty pathetic considering my Saturn works like a charm to this day.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:36:05 2015 No.2311610 >>2310872 This is normal btw

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:38:51 2015 No.2311612 >>2311610 >>2311096 Thanks I can't believe I've been playing this game all this time and not seen it

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:48:04 2015 No.2311620 >>2311602 Looks like a dirty lens, clean lens and if you still have troubles grease the wheels and the screw like thing on the right with white lithium grease.

Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:51:02 2015 No.2311626

>>2311602
it may just be the game. what are you playing?
barring that, maybe too much shit on your memory card? dirty/scratched disk? laser needing work/is dirty? Is it an actual disc or a burned copy? PS1 or PS2 game? if PS2 is it a DVD or CD game?

Gonna need more info.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:54:52 2015 No.2311632 >>2311620 The lens could be dirty, as the system was pretty dusty/dirty when I pulled it out of the closet. >>2311626 Star Ocean: Till the End of Time: Directors Cut. Now that i think about it, it wasn't doing it with Fatal Fury Archive.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:55:01 2015 No.2311634 >>2311612 There are a handful of other parts in the game like that too. In fact, if you really take a minute to look at the palmtrees, there's some really hardass clipping here and there.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 04:56:07 2015 No.2311637 >>2311632 I should note that the Fatal Dury collection and Final Fantasy X-2 are the only other games I have. I haven't tried to play X-2 yet. Also the game disc itself is in great condition scratch-wise, but I did notice that it had been resurfaced.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 12:49:49 2015 No.2312057 >>2308647 So you are talking about using a 555 timer? For the sake of science how can this be done? Are there instructions?

Anonymous Fri Mar 27 13:46:48 2015 No.2312120

>>2312057
>>2312057
You want a monostable circuit - if you're using a 555 timer, schematics for that are available basically everywhere. Hell, I think wikipedia's 555 page has one for it.

It'll send a fixed-time pulse every time you send it an input voltage - you just need to figure out how long of a button-push you need for your short hop, and then you can calculate the resistor and capacitor values you need. If that's too much trouble, let me know what timing you want, and I might be able to do the math for you later.

Anonymous Fri Mar 27 17:39:39 2015 No.2312474

>>2312057
A 555 is probably the simplest. It depends on what's best for you. I did something similar recently and used a pic because it handles more buttons and is easier to tweak.

>>2312120
>schematics for that are available basically everywhere
And half of those are tards who copied it from someone else and say "i dnt no wut resistor iz lol". And they copied it from someone who explains the whole thing in detail and has a foot note *sorry the diode is backwards in the picture but if you've got this far you already figured it out. teh intarwebz.

Anonymous Fri Mar 27 19:20:12 2015 No.2312675

I'm going to RGB mod my N64. I've already checked the chip and it's fine but I need wire.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RAPID-7-0-2-Equipment-Wire-Cable-100m-reel-11-Colour-Options-Electrical-/120922604583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1c278c8427

Not sure if that's too thick?

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 19:30:40 2015 No.2312716 >>2312675 I've seen people use 22 gauge, I think thats .64mm or around that. But do you really want that long a spool? You know an old usb cable has small insulated wires inside it, or even a parallel printer cable has over 50 wires In it.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 19:40:24 2015 No.2312768 >>2312716 I want a long spool so I have wire for other stuff I may do. I'm finding it quite difficult just to find thin wire.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 19:42:38 2015 No.2312774 >>2312768 and I don't really have any spare cables lying around. The only wire i've ever used is rainbow ribbon cable.

>>	Anonymous Fri Mar 27 19:51:02 2015 No.2312807 >>2312675 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Core-Hookup-Wire-1-0-6-mm-22AWG-Breadboard-Jumpers-11-colours-1-100m-/111513559218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item19f6b9e0b2 Think I found it, thank you!

Anonymous Sat Mar 28 16:00:17 2015 No.2314419
File: 204 KB, 796x613, 4nes4snes_controllers.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

NES Controller Ports question (for a mod I'm working on)

I'd like to essentially have a 4nes4snes (pictured) connected // to an original NES mainboard. According to the schematics, I assumed that the NES controllers shared a common Latch and Clock (and VCC, and GND obviously). However, testing shows that it is not the case: Latch is common between the two ports but Clock is not. It doesn't make sense to me, as latch is normally used in sync with the clock. Why is that so? Is there something I'm missing here?

I tried to bridge both Clock lines on Port #1 and #2 for shits and giggles. It doesn't work, in a weird way - keys are remapped. The A button for instance becomes "Select", and the left direction becomes "Start". "B" is the only unaffected button.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 28 16:16:22 2015 No.2314471 >>2314419 It confuses me why you want to do that, but the CPU drives each clock line low when address 0x4016 for controller 1 or 0x4017 for controller 2 is read. http://wiki.nesdev.com/w/index.php/Input_devices

Anonymous Sat Mar 28 16:30:36 2015 No.2314493

>>2314471
Interesting. So the NES essentially reads each controller alternatively (or at least asynchronously), while a 4nes4snes does not?

(yes, my explanation was confusing, I'm aware of it; the general idea is to harness the two controller ports without disconnecting them from the NES, and duplicate them on a USB device)

Anonymous Sat Mar 28 16:43:58 2015 No.2314520

>>2312120
>>2312474
You two sound like you know quite a bit about this stuff. As bad as I want to experiment with this and as much fun as I find playing around with PCBs and electronics, my knowledge and experience is far too beginner. I feel this project is too much out of my league at this time. Like I wouldnt even know where to start. Thanks anyway for info

Anonymous Sat Mar 28 20:14:22 2015 No.2314942
File: 1.29 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_1306.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I got this Megaman X that wasn't working, looking at it with the multimeter I found there wasn't any continuity between some pins and the chip legs because several of those metal rings thingies where the solder should stick were loose.

I grind a screwdriver over the traces to reveal the metal part and used that to bridge the pins to the chip legs.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 28 20:15:45 2015 No.2314943 File: 1.32 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_1307.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2314942 This is the first time I do something like this, so it wasn't a clean job.

>>	Anonymous Sat Mar 28 20:17:00 2015 No.2314946 File: 1.23 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_1309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2314943 And it worked!!

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 29 01:06:16 2015 No.2315476 >>2314942 >>2314943 that looks like a disaster. glad it works though should really be cleaned up and soldered properly. check out some yt videos for tips.

Anonymous Sun Mar 29 09:42:35 2015 No.2315959
File: 1.65 MB, 1344x756, jag.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

First ever attempt to repair something.

Worked rather well manager to replace mc34163dw

Ebay user who sold as non tested with no powersupply

Must of used a normal one not realizing that Pin of power connector was reversed.

>>	Anonymous Sun Mar 29 09:44:47 2015 No.2315961 >>2314943 Just a guess But looks like you were not using 40/60 lead solder Pure Tin solder really sucks

>>	Anonymous Mon Mar 30 22:44:14 2015 No.2319419 need to buy a replacement 72 pin connector. are they all the same? any difference between refurbished OEM and aftermarket?

Anonymous Mon Mar 30 23:14:42 2015 No.2319510

>>2319419
The originals are gold plated or some shit, effectively rust-proof and will last forever, at worst you need to re-bend the pins to get them in the right position again.
All the aftermarket ones aren't gold plated, lots of people say they rust up or wear out quickly, and 99/100 times they have the pins far too close together, creating a death grip on the cart, which people say can be solved by just inserting and removing a game you don't like a couple hundred times.

OEM is recommended, but replacements aren't the end of the world.

You said you need to buy one, are you sure the original is completely unrepairable?

Anonymous Mon Mar 30 23:17:13 2015 No.2319515

>>2319510
>are you sure the original is completely unrepairable?
no I am not sure. I just didnt put much thought into it and figured flashing lights = buy new connector.
from the look of it, 7 of the pins are bent. do I just poke them from the other side?

Anonymous Mon Mar 30 23:24:51 2015 No.2319534
File: 6 KB, 500x300, ms1_md1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2250872
Yes as jap mega drives use jp21 which is basically euro SCART with a different pin out on the SCART end.

Buying any SCART Mega Drive cable set up for RGB will work for any Mega Drive/Genesis.

Pic related. its the universal pin out of the Model 1 Mega Drive/Genesis.

Anonymous Mon Mar 30 23:27:13 2015 No.2319548

>>2319515
Probably would be easier to do by removing it from the console first. Just bend them back into position and give it a go. Unless the pin is broken, or breaks off when you bend it, it should work. I'd recommend googling around for a video or something, I have NO experience in doing this.

Anonymous Tue Mar 31 02:16:46 2015 No.2319906

>>2319515
You can use a sewing needle or small flat head screwdriver to gently bend the pins back into place.
I use and old toothbrush and some 91% rubbing alcohol to scrub them after bending.
Put it back on the board and plug back in the controller ports and test if it works then, there should be some resistance when inserting a cart.
There are some good youtube videos to watch and worse case is you can still just buy a new one, but they aren't that great of quality compared to the original that came with the system.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 31 04:19:09 2015 No.2320031 File: 332 KB, 606x427, 654654654.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >Nope, definitely the EEPROM. You should take a look at that. I'd fix it myself, but I don't really have the tools.

Anonymous Tue Mar 31 21:56:51 2015 No.2321445
File: 28 KB, 618x309, mastersystem.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I received a SEGA Master System for $15 several years ago from a co-worker of mine. It works perfectly, there just happened to be the issue of the bottom enclosure being cracked. Which wasn't a big deal.

Until one day, my brother knocked it off a table and the entire bottom shattered like glass.

I need a new enclosure for this thing. Matching the original or otherwise. I just need something that'll look better than how it looks now. What are my options?

Anonymous Tue Mar 31 22:19:08 2015 No.2321474

>>2319534
The model 1 uses a completely different and larger pin out from the rest of the variants (Model 2, Model 3, Nomad, CDX, X'Eye, etc. which all use the same smaller pinout). You can, however, use a Model 1 Genesis cable as a PC Engine Duo and Turbo Duo cable.

>>	Anonymous Tue Mar 31 22:24:58 2015 No.2321479 >>2321474 Yes. That's because it uses the same pinout as prior consoles (MasterSystem 1 & 2, SC3000, etc).

>>	Anonymous Wed Apr 1 19:31:48 2015 No.2322993 What strength of soldering iron is ideal for working inside a console? I was looking into getting one for a PSX modchip and the site suggested a 15W.

Anonymous Thu Apr 2 01:02:44 2015 No.2323402
File: 2.20 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150402_145501.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

What settings should I be playing with to reduce the bowing in pic? I've got the back of the TV off right now and really want to fix this. Also what's the difference between horizontal phase and horizontal centre?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 01:33:05 2015 No.2323458 >>2323402 it doesn't look that bad in the picture but it's worse irl

Anonymous Thu Apr 2 04:22:17 2015 No.2323603

>>2322993
That's fine, but if you plan on using it for other things you might consider getting a soldering station with adjustable temperature control.
There are some very affordable Hakko clones on ebay and amazon that are great for people just starting to get into soldering.

Anonymous Thu Apr 2 05:56:40 2015 No.2323650
File: 825 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01566.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2323402
Well, if you would posted in the CRT thread then you would have gotten some answers by now.
>What settings should I be playing with to reduce the bowing in pic?
On my Sony it was PIN AMP but you might can find some options referred as pincushion, probably two settings for the upper and lower half.
>Also what's the difference between horizontal phase and horizontal centre?
I believe that phase adjust the phase of the horizontal deflection sawtooth, the moment where the electron beam jumps from the right to the left relative to the horizontal sync and center just adds an DC offset.
Both of them displaces picture horizontally but aren't the same thing.

Also if this is supposed to be a real SNES@60hz then your geometry is quite off or you've enabled the underscan option if this is a PVM (the case looks like it).
The left and right sides should be a be cutoff by 1-3 pixels (hidden beyond the edge of the phosphors) and about 8-12 scanlines of the top and the bottom (off the 224 total) should be cutoff as well.
If you're using RGB right now then it can be possible that composite/S-Video and maybe component could be displayed horizontally off center with the current settings.

pic related, my 24" Trinitron displaying SMAS (PAL version) in RGB and 60hz for pure demonstration purposes.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 07:21:52 2015 No.2323714 >>2323650 Appreciate the answer. I've got the size set like that for my MVS which is wider

Anonymous Thu Apr 2 08:16:19 2015 No.2323758
File: 1.01 MB, 1500x1177, mastersystemjew.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2321445
the only option really is to find another master system and swap the shells.

i doubt there's anyone making replacement shells.

i hope you're not in the states because they're expensive as fuck, even broken ones.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 09:15:50 2015 No.2323819 >>2321445 best bet is to keep a look out for a spare shell on euroebay

Anonymous Thu Apr 2 19:04:53 2015 No.2324525

Anybody here familiar with the inner workings of the NeoGeo Pocket color? The one I have does not seem to want to read the one game I own, shutting off as soon as it should start. On a monochrome NGP I can get it to tell me that it is exclusive to color, or get it to boot to a graphics test mode for the game if I hold option (which doesn't work on the Color model at all). I was thinking the cart is bad, but since I get some signs of life on my non-Color, I guess something is wrong with the NGPC console itself, but I have no idea what could cause this since I have cleaned the pin connectors and white cloth comes out clean.

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 19:16:25 2015 No.2324540 >>2323758 I haven't been to that Goodwill in Webster in almost two months. Is that thing still there?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 19:41:44 2015 No.2324563 is this the thread on restoration of the actual cartridge (getting gunk and sharpie off) or is there another general?

>>	Anonymous Thu Apr 2 20:01:49 2015 No.2324589 >>2324525 Powering on the console with no game will tell you whether it's a problem with the console.

Anonymous Fri Apr 3 04:25:24 2015 No.2325251

>>2324540
It's the Victor store. They removed the glass cabinet and haven't had any games in months. The occasional bare system on the racks is the best you'll get.

The Macedon one is pretty stellar though, I've gotten tons of nes and psx games and controllers. They over price the systems though, $40 nes and a $35 psx, just cables.

Anonymous Fri Apr 3 14:10:41 2015 No.2325825

>>2324589
The console powers on, but the game doesn't run. It runs in a standard monochrome pocket but just enough to say it is only for the Color system, and I can bypass this somewhat to access a graphics check mode for the game on the monochrome, but I can't access said mode on the Color system (nor does the game start). Given that the exclusivity message pops up and I can access the graphics check on the cart I can only assume that it is a functioning game.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 18:32:56 2015 No.2326250 My Game color speaker is dead. Can I get a replacement with out tearing one from a different gameboy?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 18:52:24 2015 No.2326284 >>2326250 If it fits then it should work. Are you sure that the speaker is broken? What resistance does it have?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 19:57:11 2015 No.2326359 >>2326284 >Are you sure that the speaker is broken? I dropped the gameboy and the speaker stopped working. I just tried it. Turned the volume all the way up and got some hissing. >What resistance does it have? What would need to test that?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 19:59:05 2015 No.2326362 >>2326284 >Are you sure that the speaker is broken? I dropped the gameboy and the speaker stopped working. I just tried it. Turned the volume all the way up and got some hissing. >What resistance does it have? What would I need to test that?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 20:05:35 2015 No.2326374 >>2326359 >What would need to test that? Any standard multimeter. >I dropped the gameboy and the speaker stopped working. Have you checked for damage to the speaker connections? If it's outputting static, the speaker still works.

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 20:08:38 2015 No.2326379 >>2326362 >What would I need to test that? A multimeter to measure the resistance in ohms, the speaker should have near 8 ohms. Is pin 5 on the headphone jack shorted to pin 4 (ground) if there isn't anything inserted? Does the headphone jack work?

>>	Anonymous Fri Apr 3 22:03:15 2015 No.2326520 >>2326374 I will Take it apart and have a look later. >>2326374 >Does the headphone jack work? Yes.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 4 00:04:08 2015 No.2326680 Anyone familiar with the pc engine duo r, can you tell me where to find a replacement button thing for the cd door? It's the little hollow plastic piece that a spring goes against under a metal plate held in by two screws.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 4 02:11:01 2015 No.2326839 >>2325825 Is your definition of "powers on" the same as mine? Mine is power light turns on, screen turns on and displays the logo while playing some music, then goes to PDA mode?

Anonymous Sat Apr 4 11:14:34 2015 No.2327346
File: 24 KB, 500x404, game_parts_02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

So, where right now is the best place to get Modchips for the PS1? I'm not sure what's sketch and what isn't. pic sorta related. waiting on a similar shell in the mail to put the guts from an SCPH-9001 into.

also, were the power supplies different across the revisions? obviously the PSOne had an external brick, but I'm not sure if they changed at all. judging from basic google searches, it doesn't seem so.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 4 11:39:11 2015 No.2327374 >>2327346 Get an MM3 from Eurasia. There are more expensive stealth chips, but they're basically worthless unless you're using the PSone or you really want to play original disks of copy protected games.

>>	Anonymous Sat Apr 4 11:44:09 2015 No.2327381 >>2327374 nah, just want it to play burned games. also, somewhat off topic but still related. will undervolting LEDs damage them in any way? I wouldn't think so, they're basically just diodes, right?

Anonymous Sat Apr 4 17:34:50 2015 No.2327956

>>2326839
Yeah, it does all that if there is no game in.

But if the game I have is in, I can turn the console on, but it shuts off after the NeoGeo splash screen. However, on a monochrome model, it says (in Japanese, even if the console is set to English) that the game is a Color exclusive. If I hold the Option button prior to this on the monochrome system, I do not get the warning but can instead access a graphics check of sorts for the game itself and can cycle through the game's sprites by pressing a button. There are some random characters in said check, but the main sprites are there and are definitely from the game. This doesn't work on the Color model - it just shuts down no matter what I do once it goes through the generic splash screens. Based on this, I imagine that the game itself works, since I'd imagine that if it had become corrupted it would just shut down in both systems.

I'd order another game to test, but I don't want to get too far into buying games yet if I have to replace the console.

Anonymous Sat Apr 4 17:38:53 2015 No.2327961

I have a model 1 genesis that suddenly started having issues playing games. At first it would freeze during the first few seconds after the game started. But then it quickly started freezing sooner and sooner until now I can't even get the "the game licensed by sega blah blah blah" screen to show up.

I heard that a problem like this might have something to do with the voltage regulator. Anyone have experience with faulty ones? What would I do to confirm they're the problem? I have a multimeter. And is this the sort of thing that can just be resoldered to fix, or do I probably need replacement parts?

Anonymous Sat Apr 4 17:42:48 2015 No.2327969

>>2327346
>also, were the power supplies different across the revisions?
Yes. All 4 revisions had different revisions of the power supply. However, all can be made to work. The first revision uses a 7pin connecter while the later are 5. So it's much easier to to use the later power supplies if you have a later PlayStation.

Anonymous Sat Apr 4 20:20:38 2015 No.2328142

>>2327956
You probably don't have to replace the console but it's obviously going to require some work. I've never seen this behavior but I'd bet good money if you open it up and give it a good cleaning it will work. It's probably just some shit on the connector bridging some pins.

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 02:12:17 2015 No.2328592

>>2328142
Thanks for the suggestion. I've tried cleaning the cart connector up (and the cartridge pins as well) and the PCB inside looks to be in good shape. I've got some proper contact cleaner coming in the mail so maybe that will yield better results. I'm really kinda baffled and hoping that the damn game works since as far as I know it is a yet-to-be-dumped trial cart with an SNK proto label on the back... I can find a few mentions online of people having similar NGPC problems and it seemed to be linked to the carts themselves, but the fact that it seems to have some life on the monochrome unit makes me think otherwise.

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 02:15:20 2015 No.2328595
File: 2.87 MB, 640x480, 040420150066.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2328142
I got this Yoshi Island cartridge that likes to freeze after a few minutes of playing, the graphics still looks good (no garbage) and the music keeps playing (no weird or out of place sound effects) it just stop moving.

I opened the game but nothing seems out of place, the contacts are so clean I could eat on them, there's no sign of corrosion anywhere, no broken traces either, the cap looks in good shape too.

Could it be that the game is overheating?

Webm related, freezes at second 10. (artifacts caused by my shitty phone)

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 02:16:20 2015 No.2328596 >>2328595 What the hell, didn't meant to reply anybody, oh well.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 03:14:50 2015 No.2328638 >>2328595 Take a credit card and wrap in in micro fiber cloth and put a little alcohol on it and clean the cartridge slot.

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 03:33:48 2015 No.2328654

I can't even describe it without shedding some manly tears, but I broke the pins in the cartridge slot of my 1 CHIP SNES. And the damned thing is soldered to the board. Is it feasible for me to get someone to change it or should I just get a new SNES? Would there be too much of a diference in quality? I must note I only play with composite and I don't really do it for the graphics. Even still, I really don't want to just throw it away.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 03:39:28 2015 No.2328663 File: 2.51 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150405_043631.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] >>2328654 Here's a picture of what's left of it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 03:48:38 2015 No.2328670 >>2328654 >>2328663 Pretty sure that you'd have to salvage a connector from another SNES to fix that. I'm not sure if that connector's form factor changes between SNES revisions.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 04:36:51 2015 No.2328703 >>2328654 >manly tears Nah you are just a pussy.

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 05:25:53 2015 No.2328727

>>2328654
>>2328663
I found replacement genesis connectors on eBay. Not labeled as such but it was the correct number of pins pitch. They work. I'm sure you could find snes ones.

Getting it off without any soldering experience might be tasking, though. If you try it yourself use a solder sucker/pump and wick. Don't ever force it if it's still connected.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 05:27:37 2015 No.2328729 >>2328727 Pins and pitch*

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 05:45:16 2015 No.2328741 My Dreamcast is having trouble reading discs a lot of the time. It usually takes about a dozen or so tries to get it to boot a disc, after which it works fine. I hear the laser wears out easily and needs adjustment but I don't know how to do it.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 06:06:45 2015 No.2328749 >>2328741 If you haven't already, first try cleaning the laser lens with a cotton swab and 90% isopropyl alcohol.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 06:09:19 2015 No.2328751 >>2328749 That sounds simple enough, I'll try that.

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 08:33:57 2015 No.2328815
File: 1.98 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

I have this copy of links awakening for the GB that i used to mess around with the teleportation glitch when i was a kid, to get to places and dungeons i couldn't reach yet.
After awhile the save i was playing on started to get weird, corrupt sprites, missing items etc.
And finally it gave up and deleted all the saves and somehow stopped showing the backround (only the sprites were showing) and only showed white instead, rendering the game unplayable.
I read that you could reset the game and fix it by detaching the battery and reataching it.
So i did that and it worked!
Only one problem though. Everytime i save a game and resume it, I get stuck inside a wall! (see picture)
Anyone got any idea what happend, is it fixable?

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 09:23:10 2015 No.2328856 >>2328815 Sounds like the SRAM is going bad. If you've got a ROM dumper, you could test with that and compare to a known good ROM.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 11:51:17 2015 No.2329069 >>2328856 Well fuck! I don't have a rom dumper so i guess there's nothing to do huh?

Anonymous Sun Apr 5 12:09:20 2015 No.2329093

>>2328727
Yeah, this is what I thought, anon. I'm still not sure if it will be viable regarding the cost benefit but I do plan to see if I can get a technical store to give it a try. The last time I checked everything was working but the board might have gone bad. For me attempting to desolder it is quite haunting, so I can only hope for a not awfully expensive service.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 12:18:28 2015 No.2329108 >>2328638 Well this only happens with this exact cartridge and no other one, I have another Yoshi island that runs without any issues, but I'll try and see what happens.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 12:19:48 2015 No.2329110 >>2328663 Is not that hard to desolder ir and solder another, finding another 1chip could be a pain in the ass, just look for another snes with the cartridge slot soldered and swap them.

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 12:32:57 2015 No.2329127 >>2329069 Try a new battery? Are you still using the original?

>>	Anonymous Sun Apr 5 13:13:06 2015 No.2329163 >>2329127 Yeah i'm using the original since it saves. I guess i'll buy several ones with tabs, i have some pokemon games i need to replace. Thanks for the help!

Anonymous Mon Apr 6 20:09:04 2015 No.2331482

>>2328856
Wouldn't it be better to get a SRAM test unit and a clip so he can test in circuit?

>>2329127
It's possible that the homeopathic properties of the battery are imparting some of the previously corrupt save data to the new save. A new one would solve that.

>>2328815
Try detaching it and leaving it for a while to make sure the ram is cleared.

Anonymous Mon Apr 6 22:19:57 2015 No.2331664

plz halp.
I have a Famicom AV HVC101, and it only black screens now, with some low audio hum.
It was modded with a NESRGB and an audio fix, but undoing all of this to stock status yielded the same result. The only thing I managed to test was the 7805 which outputs correct +5v.

I'm somewhat hoping it's the PPU so I can try to buy some junk famicom to salvage one. Would be less expensive than seeking another HVC101...
Anyone encountered a similar failure ?

>>	Anonymous Mon Apr 6 22:26:59 2015 No.2331670 Hey anons, what happens when a capacitor from a SNES cartridge gets bad? the game stops working or it will have an strange behavior?

>>	Anonymous Mon Apr 6 23:37:02 2015 No.2331784 >>2331670 I've never experienced a problem with a cart due to problems with the decoupling capacitor but in things I've built I've definitely seen "strange" behavior although the system still mostly worked most of the time.

>>	Anonymous Tue Apr 7 07:08:02 2015 No.2332287 >>2289806 Rusty Shackleford...

>>	Anonymous Tue Apr 7 08:18:36 2015 No.2332347 >>2319515 Have you cut the appropriate pin on your lockout chip? That will eliminate the annoying 1Hz reset thing so you don't get that when one useless pin hasn't made a good connection. It's quite nice to say bye-bye to blinking on the NES.

>>	Anonymous Tue Apr 7 08:25:41 2015 No.2332353 >>2323650 PAL in 60Hz? Sounds like you're a cheater.

Anonymous Tue Apr 7 11:12:26 2015 No.2332494

>>2332353
I always play PAL versions in 50hz, which is what i implied with "demonstration purposes".
I make an exception for fucking Bubsy due of glitchy scanline in the background which only appears in 50hz, i could do the same for Super R-Type because the PAL ROM matches US ROM codewise.

>>	Anonymous Tue Apr 7 12:37:30 2015 No.2332629 NEW THREAD: >>2332627 NEW THREAD: >>2332627 NEW THREAD: >>2332627 NEW THREAD: >>2332627

itsthatguyonvr at gmail Tue Apr 7 13:36:11 2015 No.2332725
File: 2.58 MB, 4128x2322, 20150407_133158.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

>>2329093
if you supply the new connector and postage both ways i'll do it for ten bucks. shouldn't take me more than 20 minutes to remove/install/clean and test.

hell, just toss in a couple retro games or controllers in the box and i'll do it as trade.

i'm serious, i want you to be able to play it again.

i'm in western NY, so if the postage is worth it for you i'll gladly help you out.

pic related, the model 1 genesis i removed the bad connector from with the new one i have yet to install.

i'm this guy, btw: >>2328727

>>	Anonymous Tue Apr 7 13:37:37 2015 No.2332728 >>2328815 >detaching the battery and reataching it. you should replace it while you're at it.

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