/vr/ - Retro Games

>>935878
I'm just getting back into N64. I have my own console and CRT.

I need some good controller solutions though; the best I've got is ordering replacement joysticks for my controllers which cost $10 each. If anyone knows where to get new first party, or GOOD third party controllers, please let me know. 'Good' refers to the Joystick; that's where all the issue is. Buttons are easy, it's the joystick that screws up all the time.

Also, does anyone know how S-Video cables do in terms of picture quality? Is there a noticeable difference? Will it do the same for the SNES? Is the tv cable type thing better than component or svideo?

>>935957
Also, in terms of my own experiences, I've found Qtip+rubbing alcohol to work great with N64 games. I unscrewed them with the security screwdriver (online somewhere), rubbed the gold plate connectors with alcohol qtip, (both sides), and reassembled. For the N64 itself, I couldn't get the middle screw at the bottom of the console off, so I couldn't replace the cartridge connector. Instead, I took a butterknife and a cloth napkin (not cheap paper towel type napkin) and put alcohol on that, and put it inside the connector. I took 3 N64 consoles and 4 games from a daycare because they were 'broken'. None of them would play any of the games. I then cleaned them like the above instructions and now all of them work with all of their games. I returned them, but the kids don't play them anyway (no good games) so I'll probably get to have them or something. Whatever.

I always have good experience with that style of cleaning N64 games.

>>935957
Component > s-video > composite > RF

On a CRT, s-video will make a noticeable difference in picture quality, making it look sharper with less bleeding colors. The difference between component and s-video on a CRT isn't noticeable, at least on mine.

There's some info about this on http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/Video_Signals

>>936039
Are there component cables for N64?
Do they make a difference on 'HD' tvs?

>>936119
I don't think there are component cables for the N64, but I could be wrong. Component does make a difference on HDTVs even for non-HD content like the PS2.

bump from last row

I'm having some problems with a Model 1 Sega Genesis (VA7, if I'm not mistaken). Maybe somebody in the thread could help me out?

I've had a Model 2 Genesis from when I was a kid, and recently my Aunt gave me her kids' Model 1 Genesis. Since I've always had the Model 2, I know all of my games work just fine. When I tried to play games on this Model 1, it was really difficult to even get to the TMSS screen. I used some rubbing alcohol on the pin connectors on both the console and the cartridges, and this really helped a lot. Games almost always load up at least to the TMSS. But then something weird started happening... I tried to load Sonic 1. It got to "flashing" SEGA screen and then went black. I've never seen this. Even on my old Model 2, if a game got that far it would always load. Then I tried Ms Pac Man. I can get to the first level just fine, but after about one second the graphics go crazy and the game freezes. I tried Primal Rage and the game loads perfectly almost every time, with no issues until the character select screen. I pick a character and the screen goes black before the first stage loads. Finally, I tried The Lion King. Something similar happens, I can get to the first level, but when Timon says "It starts", there's some slight graphical bugs and then when the level starts, the game freezes and then, strangely enough, restarts the console.

I've got the Model 1 open right next to me right now, I but I don't really know what to look for. I've never had a problem like this, so I don't know what could be wrong... It's really dirty on the inside, so I suppose I'll start cleaning that first.

>>936341

>>939490
This is me. Didn't want to double-post.

I know I've seen component cables for GCN, and I'm almost positive they are compatible with N64 and SNES.

>>939490
It sounds like the cartridge slot and cartridges need to be cleaned. See http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/General_Console_Cleaning

>>939493
GCN component cables used a separate video port meant for HD output. Composite and s-video cables used the standard multi-out port that the N64 and SNES also used.

>>939490
Here.

>>939514
Been trying to clean the connectors and cartridges since you posted. Still having no luck. I stupidly forgot to mention I'm using a generic power adapter until I receive an official Sega Model 1 adapter. Could this be causing any problems? Most games start fine, but freeze or go to a black screen before gameplay actually occurs.

>>939727
Could be partial failure of one or more memory chips, or the processor itself, especially if it fucks off at the same point in each game. The usual process of REPLACE SUSPECTED BAD WITH KNOWN GOOD is what's to be done. Test with another Genesis 1 if you can. Everyone should have two.

I don't think I have any games that won't work due to crud on the connectors, and my only DEAD game is Revenge of Shinobi. I have two copies, and I don't know which version either one is, since I reaaaally don't like playing it.

So whats a good way to get non surface mounted ICs off a board?

I've tried a soldering pump and de-soldering braid. Each seems to help some what with the processes but what would be a good way to remove the soldering deep inside the legs of the chip?

>>940129
It's just strange because all of the games work fine on my Model 2. I will have to find another Model 1 (preferably one with audio that isn't shitty) to figure out the problem. HOWEVER, I did discover Master System games work perfectly on the Model 1 with a Power Base Converter! How strange.

The Power Base Converter is still going through the cartridge connector, so would that mean everything is okay there? Still having trouble with it playing Genesis games, so I don't know what that means.

>>940163
If they work with a model 2, then the games aren't the problem. It may be the positions in the system memory that the game data is being stored in that is screwed up. Bad RAM has mysterious symptoms.

>>939727
>I'm using a generic power adapter until I receive an official Sega Model 1 adapter. Could this be causing any problems?

Possibly, if components don't receive the right amount of power they may become unstable. The official power supply outputs 9V DC at 1.2A, or 10.8W. A substitute power supply must output exactly 9V DC and supply >= 1.2A of current or 10.8W of power. Also, the polarity of the connector must match.

buuump

I've at least hauled two SCPH-1001 systems out of storage, and one looks pretty enough to mod... but I'll have to test both to see if either has a fucked laser assembly. It would do no good to put a mod chip in a system that can't read legit games. Then I have to copy a game to test it! hurr.

What I need to do is build a workshop, because my heavy-duty desk sucks for cinematography. Again, over-planning leads to under-performing. And watch the joke be on me, and the chip will be blank.

I have a problem with my High Definition Graphics Sega Genesis Model 1.
No sound coming from the console. Tried this on another TV as well.
The signal however, is RF(all I have), and the center pin in the coax cable is slightly (ever so slightly) loose.
But the front 3.5mm TRS jack on the console does output sound, albeit not as high quality as I recall, and these are brand new Sony MDR-XD200 Studio headphones, which sound fine on everything else, so I don't think thats it.

So would you say this is a fault of the console getting old? I've kept it in pretty good shape I think.
However, I did take it out of a box in the garage a little bit ago, which is 110 degrees F inside, due to poor insulation, so maybe
its the heat?
Perhaps the RF cable I'm using? Which I think is likely, but doesn't explain the less-than-exemplary output from the TRS jack.

>>943417
Looks like a job requiring a signal trace. Yaaaay. What you do is tap ground and the audio pin from the AV port, and check for any signal. Then you test at points further back the amplifier chain until you find the point where the sound works. A blown capacitor might be the culprit, but you still have to check to be sure.

I haven't abandoned ship, btw. I've just done NOTHING for the past couple weeks because I feel perma-shitty. Awful job sucks the will to do anything right out of me.

Still on the books:
PSX mod chip
Goldstar 3DO laser replacement (REALLY not looking forward to this)

Maybe:
Gamecube laser replacement
Game Boy ProSound audio mod
Master System S-Video mod

HAH:
Master System 1 FM Sound mod
Genesis 2 Crystal Clear Audio mod

OP here

I'm trying to find time to add more to the site, but I've been fairly busy since I got back from my trip. Other than grad school, I got distracted recently because I met a guy on Craigslist who was selling two broken Xbox 360s for $15, and it turns out he was doing so because he wanted to buy them broken, fix them, and sell them for a profit, but he couldn't fix those. He wouldn't even fix them himself, though. He'd take them to a local repair shop and then sell them and not make much of a profit.

Anyway, I fixed both of them, and I plan on keeping one and selling the other. The guy I got the 360s from brought me another broken 360 for free (he just wanted to sell the hard drive), and if I fix that one I'll sell it too. I want to do it honestly though, so I plan to test the console first to make sure it doesn't break again, and include information about the repair in the ad I post.

tl;dr I'm learning 360 stuff and will post it on the site when I have time. Also, not retro, but this thread needs to be bumped anyway.

>>947156
Best advice when dealing with 360s is to avoid them altogether especially used ones. They're cheap pieces of shit and if they aren't broken in some way they're probably banned from xbox live. Newer models are probably decent but if you can buy a new console you probably should just buy a PS3

>>947156
Mod a 360 for yourself if you can, the Japanese exclusives are the only good ones anyways.

hello o/vr/ies, i got a few busted snes' that i cleaned and got working again, but they came with this grody scent that i can't get rid of. i got the smell out of the plastic with a good cleaning, but i don't know what to do about the boards. last time i used a snes like this, it made my cartridges smell
does anyone know how to get the smell off the boards, or at least off the cartridge slots?

I don't know if the place to ask, but I'm assuming you guys know a lot about the hardware.

I'm trying to build an emulator machine inside of an NES. Essentially it's going to be an AMD A-10 6700, a m-ITX mobo and a small SSD, Maybe I'll go Intel if I can't find a good PSU.

But, has anyone here ever done something like this? Or at least know what the inside of an NES is like?

P.S. I'm going to try really hard to not ruin a functioning console, but it's going to be really hard to find one that looks good and doesn't work.

>>948204
Spray the boards down with contact cleaner spray, and maybe compressed air to blast foreign material free, then rinse with 91% isopropyl alcohol?

>>948230
That's a waste of an NES, when so many people here can't find any locally. There's enough free space inside an NES case that you could do something with Raspberry Pi, or some other micro-pc system without defeating the function of the NES. Kind of an add-on computer. Just pop the extra ports out of the back, and you're golden grahams.

>>948230
Personally I don't like mods like this they tend to require lots of cutting of the original case and the end result is usually very ugly. I'd just get a small mITX case and use that instead

>>948230
I agree with >>948903 , but if you insist on using an NES case, you should build a creative case for the leftover NES internals like the Nintoaster. You could build one out of legos, SMB/Duck Hunt cartridges, an old VCR, a microwave, a '67 VW beetle, a pile of dirty laundry, etc. Just don't waste the motherboard. Find a way to store it at least or sell it alone.

I popped open a console to clean it and discovered this. It looks like rust but my guess is some kind of corrosive. Like if you left a battery in an old electronic for years and it corroded. There is a grit, like sand, all over the interior but it is heaviest around this ribbon cable and the power plug in.

Haven't gone any further into disassembly so haven't seen the extent of the damage. What the hell is it? Causes? Remedies? Is the unit toast?

>>949432
I bought it at a thrift store for $4 so I don't know it's history and haven't done any testing other than plug it in. The power does turn on.

Here is pic of power adapter input

>>949432
Possibly electrolyte residue. Check for blown up capacitors

>>949450
thanks. moved out to garage to finish disassembly, will post results.

>>948230
I don't know if the AMD chip will be ideal for this setup it might be too power hungry and give off too much heat. You should probably use an Ivy Bridge pentium or i3.

You can use one of these for the PSU to reduce the amount of case cutting required and lower heat and noise generated.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00316RGD4/

They require a laptop power supply though.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EHLNTM/

>>949432
>>949439
>>949452
me again

I have a theory. Some pleb plugged a power supply into the serial port. The power had no where to go so it grounded to the metal cover. Plausible? Is this a dead console just for parts now?

I recently sold all of my NES games, but I had a few that *rattled* when you shook them (of course they were some of my more valuable titles). The guy at the store wouldn't take those. So I wanted to open them up and fix them. Rather than buy a tool for those stupid security screws, I made one myself.

I took a flathead bit and carved a little fork out with a dremel. The whole thing only took about 10 minutes and it opened the games right up. Each game had a tiny loose piece of plastic that responisble for the sound.

Now I have to make a bigger one to crack open my rattling SNES....stupid screws. Just thought this may help someone out.

>>949538

For some reason, every single copy of Zelda II I've ever picked up has rattled.

>>949541
That's pretty funny, Zelda II is one of the games I just fixed.

>>949531
I also think it's from a blown capacitor. I work in a pc repair shop, and I've seen something similar from blown caps on a graphics card. It has quite some pressure behind it.
Another possibility is that some animal pissed over it (also seen that in the shop, a cat pissed into the case fan...).

>>949562
>>949531
I was thinking some kind of water damage, from the picture the caps appear fine those SMD caps don't tend to explode like that they can leak but it's not like that

>>949562
>>949569
I did plug it in the proper port and it did turn on. All the capacitors look fine. But the rust/corrosion pattern on the metal cover plate lines up perfectly with the corrosion on the outside of the board. I thought this was where the board grounded but that is just a guess. I suppose the next step is to file off the rust, clean it as best i can, reassemble it, find the proper av adapter and see what happens.

Whether it's from a blown capacitor, cat piss or a drunken frat boy putting it in the wrong hole, It's had a rough life.

>>949604
Yeah, it looks like its only corroded on the ground connectors, so I imagine it could still work, as long as the power supply is intact.

Dreamcast has an internal power supply so you only need a standard power plug to plug it in, plus of course a video cable and a controller.

I've got an N64 that gets a green or black screen when I try to turn it on. Though sometimes if I try turning it off and on it'll eventually work. Any ideas of how I can fix this?

>>935878

Bit of a chicken/egg thing here, but hopefully I can get some advice. Just checked the site and didn't see any guts for SMS or NES.

I just got both these systems, and whilst they both seem pretty clean other that some external dust, I kinda wanted to open them up and vac or blow out some dust that is no doubt built up, just to have them in the best shape possible.

Anywho, If anyone can describe or link, I don't want to completely tear apart, but would like to know what parts of the shell I can easily pull apart to take pics for you without worrying about fucking shit up. I assume its easy if im not pulling off heat shields or things off the main board itself, but advice welcome. Will give some nice high res pics of results (if im not just missing already uploaded pics

>>949604
>find the proper av adapter
It uses an extremely common power cord. I've seen them used in everything from set-top boxes, to box fans. The PS1/2/3/PSP all use it as well.

>>950472
>>949616
> av adapter
audio / video adapter

I have a power cord from a Playstation and as I said,
>>949604
>>949439
I plugged it in and the power does turn on, and later I tracked down an a/v cable and tested it. The board is fried. I ended up returning it to the thrift shop for trade and walked out with this so all in all, I am ok with the outcome.

Thanks everyone for your help and don't buy consoles someone pissed in, even if they are $4

>>950508
Shit, sorry. I'm an idiot

>even if they are $4
I actually got my dreamcast from a thrift store as well. $7 though.
It worked fine for a little while, but know it's very finicky about what discs it will read.

Some of my burnt games work, others don't; some only work for a short while, and the only legitimate game I own for it(Sonic Adventure 1) refuses to start up most of the time. When it does, it usually resets before I can get into the first level.

Any thoughts?

>>950535
Sonic Adventure was plagued with bad pressings. I remember being rather furious about it.

Too bad I cannot solder outdoors, or I'd have a NICELY lit video of a PSX mod chip installation, a whole 20 years after it would be useful to anybody.

>>950535
it could be a bad burn as >>950570 said
try reburning your problem discs

or it could be a dirty laser
soak a cotton swab with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol and dab the lens

or it could be a misaligned laser
not too difficult, but takes some tweaking
> can't post link, but google
sega dreamcast laser calibration guide

abbreviated version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwGzKfDURzU

I do sincerely apologize for letting this thread derail into technically non /vr/ consoles and have no desire to cause THAT debate again.

My original post >>949432 was intended as a general console motherboard troubleshooting question

Don't bother trying to "calibrate" a laser. More often than not, it's just a guide on how to overvolt a laser diode, which will simply squeeze out the last few hours of life the diode had left in it, in a shorter burst.

I have a Vectrex where the picture is off by about 1.5cm left and down. From the service manual it seems simple enough to correct, but I'm not particularly experienced with hardware. Should I try or not?

>>950639
What dicking around I've done with deadly deadly CRTs says there should be picture position controls SOMEHWHERE, but this is hardly useful to you.

>>950643
They're not external but are documented. I just want to know if it's actually that simple to do.

>>935975
dont use alcohol, use windex. the alchol is a little to harsh, and after a while will destroy the connection pins, windex gets the job done and isnt as taxing on the cart.

Couple quick questions for those who have more knowledge than me on repairs:

What's the best option for repairing an n64 stick? I'd like to get a hori mini pad, but can't work for a month due to a heart problem. Saw this and it looks like a good longterm fix:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEJmSQjONRg

Where's a good place to buy a replacement snes power adapter? A friend gave me his old (supposedly broken) console and I'm lacking a power source. Thankfully I can just use the n64 av cables for the time being.

Thanks.

>>950663
I just use the tape method to fix N64 joysticks.

Has worked great so far.

>>949538
There's another technique which is heating a pen cap til it melts, then allowing it to harden up around the screw and form it's shape.

I've never tried it, but I've seen a few people demonstrate it on YouTube videos.

>>950657
this is contrary to what it says in the wikia
http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/General_Console_Cleaning
who right? what do?

>>950657
The wikia says use alcohol
http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/General_Console_Cleaning

Damn OP. I remember when you were on thread one, and I was asking about Mega Drive power adapters.

How would one remove tissue from a Mega Drive's cartridge slot?

>>949432
>>949439
>>949531
>>949604
>>950508

That poor Dreamcast.

>>950535

When mine started to reset, I opened it up, and cleaned the 6 pin connectors that are under one of the boards, it worked fine after that.

Could try that to stop it resetting.

>>950663
Anyone have any information on the SNES power adapter?

>>951896
Yup.. I dno what that guy is thinking, but ammonia is fucking much worse than using alc.

>>952278
Needles.

>>952532
All of my genuine SNES AC adapters are MIA for some reason....

>>952532
>>950663
Most of the 3rd party /vr/ power adapters are Chinese and unreliable
this one may cause house fires
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-Cable-Super-Nintendo/dp/B000MFE694

Retrobit is the common choice but, again, Chinese hit-or-miss

I found one at a thrift store in a box for a $1
just look for an adapter with the following specs
> Output DC10V 850mA
Should be written right on the plug

Whatever you do, do NOT use a plug with higher Voltage or higher Milliamps. You'll cook your SNES. One with slightly lower specs should be ok tho

>>952972
Electronic engineer. With that out of the way, almost everything you own was made in China. Cheap labor, and fuck all for environmental protection laws mean cheap manufacturing. It's the dirty whore every electronics and toy manufacturer gets with. While a cheapass Chinese AC adapter won't be stupid-durable and massively heavy, they'll work. X volts in, X/Y volts out. Ratio-tuned inductors and a bridge rectifier are no longer beyond the ken or mortal men, for even the dullest factory drone can assemble them.

iPhones are more likely to cause fires and death than the power plug for your Mega Man X box.

>>952972
>do NOT use a plug with higher Voltage
Higher voltage is okay within a limited range, the SNES has a 7805 voltage regulator with a heatsink it can take anything from 9V-11V higher can result in more heat generated and the console turning off. 8V will likely work but it might be unstable, 7V is probably around the drop out range of the 7805 and probably wont work.

or higher Milliamps
You can go over what you cannot do is go under the stock current. The power adapter will get very hot while the transformer is cooking itself, the console should be fine though. As long as you have an adapter that outputs AT LEAST 850mA it will be fine.

>>953043
also this power adapter
>http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MFE694
is just completely wrong and should be pulled from amazon, while it will work it outputs 450mA which means it definitely is not suitable for a SNES

>>953043
Thank you for your elucidation.

To analogize them electro-whatsits for the layman, think of voltage as water pressure. You don't want to fuck with that. Not enough, and booooring, and too much, and it's bad times for all involved. Current is literally that. The amount of electrons "flowing" past any given point in X amount of time. How much juice is flowing, if voltage is the "speed"

Now, AC adapters' amp rating is their maximum potential before fire becomes a concern. If you have a 2 Amp transformer, and you let a 1 Amp device drink from it, everything's fine. 2 Amp device on a 1 Amp transformer, and it's fire.

Beh, I need sleep.

>>952972
So basically just find an original? Surprising, I thought there would be a suitable replacement. I've looked around online and couldn't find anything other than those shitty 3 in 1 adapters.

>>953063
>2 Amp device on a 1 Amp transformer, and it's fire.
exactly though the windings of the transformer will usually separate killing the transformer long before there's an actual fire

this guy apparently wasn't so lucky though
http://www.amazon.com/review/RIR84HGGNLCVO/

>>953086
SNES used a weird power jack and I don't know if they even make any power adapters with it aside from those multi-system ones.

I have two sega genesis model 2. The other day I tried to mod one so it could be connected through rca instead of the original cable. So I connected it and the colors were wrong. White colors were purpleish. I thought that it was because I did something wrong. But then I connected it using its original cable and it was the same.

I plugged the other one with both cables, and video was ok, but the sound was bad. It sounded like some channels weren´t working, you couldn't hear some sound effects.

The only visible flaws in the circuit board were some soldering points that were a bit cracked, but they are already resoldered.

Could it be something wrong with the chips or the old capacitors?

>>953024
> almost everything you own was made in China
obviously.
But larger contracts like Apple and Nintendo have stringent quality control.
Off brand, third parties like Yobo and Retrobit do not.

I used to work for a gaming store and about 1 in 5 of the cheap adapters fail.
Same lot, same box, some just die. Occasionally, they die dramatically like the Amazon kid

All I am saying is the third party power adapters are sketchy
you're better off finding a 10v 850mA from Radio Shack or used one from a Nintendo, Sega, Sony, Motorola, etc.

As someone else said, hopefully the size of the input jack matches
Some just don't fit

>>953201
possibly, but it's equally likely the video encoder chip is fucked, and possibly more.

>>953273
>Apple
>stringent quality control
IS GOOD JOKE. I GET. I LAUGH.

My N64 turns on, but no picture comes out

How can i fix it? I've tried switching AV cables, games, aerasol spraying the carts and the Loader, but still nothing works.

>>953320
I have one with the same problem, and I have yet to find a solution beyond replacing it. I had another one that refused to address expansion paks.It was a motherfather figuring out this problem, since it played non-expansion pak games with an expansion pak, just fine.

A bit of an off topic question here, but I'll make it /vr/ related by asking it for a general response: Where does /vr/ get their tools from? I know my way around several consoles thanks to most using regular screws, however my dad spilled a soda in my LE red 360 controller a few weeks ago and it's sticky now and they use proprietary screws. Also more /vr/ related is I could also use the tools for older things like fixing up some old rattling NES carts and such.

>>953320
I have an old dreamcast like that, the video av port got fried. I ended up buying a new one, you can get a N64 for 20$ at a pawn shop if you live in the US.

The av port got fried because my old av cables for my DC were torn up and where hold together with tape.

Would this work?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Eeasily-Fix-a-Nintendo-64-AV-Cable-With-a-Bad-Conn/?ALLSTEPS

I'm >>953320

>>953317
>generic Apple hate
>>>/g/

I just got a Snes secondhand and it's covered in years worth of dirt and juice and crap. What does /vr/ recommend for cleaning it?

>>954416
dish soap or mr clean magic eraser

you should take the shell off and clean it part by part though

>>954176
you have nothing to lose, really I think the only option is getting a replacement console. If you want to keep your N64's shell because its a special edition or color buy a N64/Gamecube screwdriver of ebay or amazon and exchange the shells.

>>954416
I clean everything with alcohol & paper towels and disinfectant wipes. I had a ps1 with lots of grime and yellowing stains,that got it all off. Also I'm a germaphobe when it comes to used console controls. Its not all dirt.

>>952972
>Whatever you do, do NOT use a plug with higher Voltage or higher Milliamps. You'll cook your SNES.
>higher Voltage or higher Milliamps
>higher Milliamps
Do you know what ohm's law is.
My SNES at 12V draws exactly 0.35A when i hold down reset and about 0.51-0.56A on a SuperFX2 game, a regular game is about 0.45-0.49A.

>higher Voltage
Up to 15 Volts should be fine but with 12 Volts nothing should go wrong, and when the 7805 overheats just replace it.
Also the higher voltage before the 7805 is used by the audio amp (bipolar transistors and a lm324), NES uses that voltage for the RF modulator.
I also have a modern 12V@1.2A PSU, which works perfect with my NES and SNES (both PAL).

>One with slightly lower specs should be ok tho
Yeah, music with distortion sounds so much better than everything else.
>http://nocash.emubase.de/fullsnes.htm#snespowersupply

Using a NES with weak PSU results into many different graphic glitches, like zapper games cease to function (no proper flash).

>>954673
>>953043
I've got one of the Retrobit adapters with the two prongs mentioned in this thread and I noticed it's rated 9v. When I plug it in to the snes, I get vertical scrolling lines even on a blank screen when the unit is off. I was able to track down a proper snes ac adapter and the problem vanished. The RB only weighs about half as much as the original adapter and seems cheap.

Is this a symptom of an underpowered ac device? If so, this adapter is a poor choice for the snes

>>955173
I've got the same adapter though I use it exclusively for my NES, I haven't had any issues there.

Do note 850mA at 10V means the adapter can output 8.5W of power at peak. 850mA at 9V outputs 7.65W at peak. In other words to have the equivalent power rating at 9V you'll need an adapter with at least ~944mA.

Watts = Volts * Amps
8.5W / 9V = 0.944A

>>955173
>The RB only weighs about half as much as the original adapter and seems cheap.
>Is this a symptom of an underpowered ac device?
Not necessarily. The weight of the original power adapter was a result of the huge transformer which took up 95% of the space. Technology has advanced and we have switching power supplies that are cheaper, weigh considerably less, and are much more efficient.

>>954229
I have to deal with every stupid iPhone and iPad problem the idiot uses can cook up from their shriveled brains, and Apple's retarded support that thinks an iPod Touch is a phone, and that a Verizon iPhone dropping calls is something AT&T supports.

>>955252
Righto. I have no issues with the sound or picture on my SNES systems when using El Cheapo Chinese adapters. My Atari 2600's video seems dark as shit with one, but since a first-party AC adapter is typically out of the question for those, eh, fuck it. I'll tweak the levels manually.

My N64 doesn't give a picture on my fancy semi-new LCD TV. Works fine on any old CRT. Do I need a special converter or something to make it work?

>>955419
Maybe your TV is choking on the signal the N64 is putting out? Try running it through a VCR, maybe? Won't do MUCH, but it might help.

>>953086
you can find an original or you can modify the terminal on the snes to accept a more common plug

>>954416
take it apart and clean all the plastic stuff with a sponge of dish soap suds and warm water. careful around the stickers if you care about them

I posted this in my own thread, but was directed here

I pulled out my old SNES after a year of non-use, and have noticed some oddites; the player 1 slot doesn't seem to work right. Different buttons work like different keys or don't work at all. I see no external damage to the port or anything else. I've tried 3 different controllers yet the same issue is present

I was wondering if you guys knew a cause, or if it's even worth it to fix. Because it's my first SNES there's some sentimental value to it

Anyone know the best way to fix the screens not displaying the whole image on the original gameboys? I have 2 that need to be fixed.

>>955878
Take the system apart, disconnect the controller ports from the mainboard, and reconnect them. Test again.

I honestly forget if they're attached via ribbon cable, wire harness, or soldered.

>I accidentally let the last thread 404, so here's a new teardown for the ColecoVision to make up for it

Some models of CV actually solder down a corner of the RF shield directly to a section of exposed ground plane on the main PCB. This may or may not be accompanied by a braid of metal going from that point and connecting to the RF enclosure under the shield.

Getting one of these soldered shields off requires an iron or physically breaking the joint.

Also PAL models have their RF modulator off the main board. It sits on its own PCB at the front of the case off to the left, beside the controller wells.

>>949538
>those stupid security screws

They're just inverted torx. The only "security" about them is simply that few people use E-torx.

>>950657

I know old Nintendo manuals told you not to use alcohol but they were only covering their asses with a blanket "no chemicals" policy. That includes no windex.

Isopropyl alcohol does no harm to the pins, so go ahead and use it.

>>955932
i'll try tomorrow, but i have no capability to solder anything

>>955173
>>955193

It's not only about watts. If input voltage is too low, the system may simply not draw enough power to function no matter how many watts your AC adapter is rated for.

If input voltage is too high the system try to draw too much current, which the power supply circuit will probably bleed off as heat to protect components from running out of spec. At best this puts a extra wear on the PSU circuit. At worst it'll blow it.

>I get vertical scrolling lines even on a blank screen when the unit is off.

This is not normal. In fact I dare say it's pretty bad and the adapter may be hazardously defective. The adapter should not be spewing interference into the SNES' video out while the system is powered off.

>>955971
> i have no capability to solder anything

That's going to make any sort of electronics repair work exceedingly difficult.

>>955971
the controller ports are connected to the main board by a ribbon cable, so you can still try that other anon's idea at least. also disconnect the cable from both sides

also also soldering is easy peasy

I found an easy way to improve the original colecovision controller.
Anyone interested?

>>956006

Did you mod it with 5mm microswitches and a lighter spring?

That's what I did.

>>956013
No, I improved the sensitivity, responsiveness of the joystick.

>>956028

That's pretty much what a microswitch mod does. Plus improved accuracy.

>>956041
oh. nvm then.

>>956048

Well, share anyway. Not everybody can install microswitches into their controllers.

>>956059
It's pretty easy. Open the controller by removing the 5 screws. Then pop out the white directional piece that hits the metal leaves that then hit the buttons. So now you see the 4 metal leaves. Grab some electrical tape and cut out small rectangles roughly the same size as each leaf. Cut out about 12 small rectangles, place 3 on each leaf individually. Put the controller back together and play. What this does is adds less dead zone to the joystick and increases responsiveness. Prior to the tape mod I was having problems playing centipede; direction wise that is. After the mod I no long have any problems. Should take no more than 10 minutes to do.

>>955971
There are a billion good soldering guides on Youtube. Shit, I learned how to build a rifle from the pins up using Youtube videos as a reference.

Even the rat-ass soldering iron kits they still (?) sell at Radio Shack are good enough to get started with, but if you want to do fine soldering with teensy-weensy leads and such, you will need something better. Don't want to fry a processor trying to attach a lead to get a signal out of it.

AT LONG LAST, I do not feel awful, the sky is sufficiently rain-free, and I can be productive.

I see the Atari 7800 page has no pictures of the system. I have a 7800, but the metal strip on it is WRECKED TO SHIT. It is not pretty AT ALL. Also the system plays only static for sound, so I never play it.
I have a 2600 Vader that needs a wipedown, and is also dead, and a woody 4 switch system that needs de-dusting. Also a Sears Video Arcade in the same shape.

But they're a pain the butt to clean. What I need to know is, what systems or accessories do people want semi-decent photos taken of? Doing random items feels tedious. Doing stuff on request feels more satisfying. I have a pretty wide swath of videogamery across the eighties and nineties.

>>957051
> 2600 Vader
This pls
Would love to see more teardown, cleaning, repair pics/info/specs for this unit and the wikia 2600 page may need some love

>>957089
On it. I'll clean it up, but tearing it down is a no go at the moment. Not feeling THAT good. If it worked, I'd tear it down to add an AV mod for it, but it's deader than disco.

Okay, took a few shots. It still needs a proper cleaning, as in, disassembled and washed in the sink, but hey. I also need to replace a difficulty switch, but I won't bother if I can't be assed to troubleshoot why it doesn't power up. Probably a case of a previous owner using the wrong AC adapter and frying it, dunno.

Uploading to the wiki now.

>>957089
holy shit, now that I think of it, the Atari 2600 actually makes for a perfect base for building an arcade stick.

>>958043
Drop that thought, or your skull will make the perfect base for a flowerpot.

>>958058
I WANT TO DRINK WINE FROM THE SKULL OF AN ENEMY

>>958169
FIND ME AN ENEMY WITH NO EYES!

>>958194
so... thirsty...

I've built up a significant backlog of projects now, but the problem is, the stuff I WANT to work on (who am I kidding, I don't really want to do anything) is MYSTERY. Like my 7800 shitting out static for sound. Noooobody else online mentions having experienced that issue, so I have to put my useless engineering degree to use to sort it out. Buuut since my degree is useless, I don't own an oscilloscope, making it difficult to do signal traces.

The PSX mod chip is still a pending project. Have everything but the instructions, the time, and the inclination to get started. I picked out two 1001 systems, and one is yellowed, so the other will be washed up for photos and modding. Watch it be the one with the closest-to-fried laser diode.

I am NOT AT ALL looking forward to tearing down my Goldstar 3DO to replace the laser, but eh.

NES VRC mod is still a go... at some point. I just have no games to test it properly, and I'm not quite sure if the Everdrive will play nice.

>>958043
>>958058
>>958169
>>958194
>>958221
mysides.jpg

>>958043
> the groves
I would think the groves on the top of the case would be annoying to rest your hands on.

>>959717
3DO teardown pls

http://arstechnica.com/gaming/2013/08/the-cheap-easy-way-to-make-those-old-game-cartridges-as-good-as-new/
Is this accurate/safe?

>>960251
>Q-tips. Lots of Q-tips.
If you're to lazy or to poor to afford a screwdriver.

>Some people swear by rubber erasers, which can theoretically be used to rub away stubborn dirt and corrosion without doing damage to the contacts.
That's my method i did it on ALL my cartridges.

>My experience is that they don't take care of anything the brass polish doesn't and that they leave little bits of eraser everywhere besides,
>they leave little bits of eraser everywhere
Fucking Faggot.
I use a little brush or the edge of a clean piece of paper to remove the little bits. I also inspect the entire board for damages, measure the battery voltage and clean the plastic shells with water and a microfiber cloth.

Also the best tip in this case is: Common sense and experience.

>>955893
Pressing around the edges of the screen, even without opening the system, works in some cases, but you may need to do some delicate soldering to reconnect the ribbon connector properly. Similar to the fix for blacked out Virtual Boy screens.

>>955893
>Anyone know the best way to fix the screens not displaying the whole image on the original gameboys? I have 2 that need to be fixed.

>Google doesn't exist.
>Youtube doesn't exist
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZxneat6tF0

>>960954
Why are you always a faggot? Take that shit back to namefag forums. 4chan is pretty much the best place to get a quick and accurate answer for damn near any question that requires money or skill to solve.

>>961076
>Take that shit back to namefag forums
I've been using this namefag (without issue, by the way) since before /vr/'s inception. What are you on about?

>4chan is pretty much the best place to get a quick and accurate answer for damn near any question that requires money or skill to solve.
>4chan
>best place
>quick and accurate

Keep yourself in that bubble, mate. Also, this repair requires no money or skill at all. Just slap an iron to the cable and that's it.

oh what a convenient thread!

i need help with my Super Nintendo, there seems to be a problem with the hardware considering its fucking up my games.
basically what happens is that the games i've bought for it all have issues, here is a tiny list on what games i have and the problems it haves.

Pocky and rocky: Tengu enemies move at a really spaztic way, that goes for flying bosses and flying projectiles too. also, there is no text between the cutscenes

Super Mario All-Stars: Super Mario 2 (USA) is unplayable, my character moves to the right on its own and when i try to move its like im going in hyperspeed mode or something, the jumps are also fucked up.

F-Zero: I cant controll my Racer at all, the faster i go, the more of fucked up mess my controll gets, the Car just go flying everywhere and its impossible to even finish a Lap let alone an entire Race.

now my question is: what can i do to repair it? Hopefully you guys can help me, i really dont want to resort to getting a new SNES considering im a poor bastard...

Does the PAL version of Gyromite have a famicom-nes adapter inside it?

>>961943
Actually now that I think about it I'm guessing no, because PAL runs at a different frequency so a pin adapter wouldn't be enough... Sorry, haven't had my coffee yet.

>>953320
>>953846
I had a similar problem, turns out the expansion pak wasn't all the way in. Try wiggling the game cart too.

>>960251
> brass polish
I would be very careful to check the chemicals in the polish if you decide on this method
Harsh chemicals can leave a residue or destroy your sensitive components
I personally don't see the point of the polish
90% isopropyl alcohol works most of the time and even stubborn build up can usually be worked off with a fine cloth or rubber eraser

>>961943
No PAL games have the Famicom-Nes adapter inside them.

The only games to have it are the ones that were leftover from Japanese releases and those all got used up from the NA release.

>>961134
First clean the games. If that doesn't help, then check the controller. Open it up and look for any torn rubber pads.

If that checks out, then you might have a controller port malfunction. That involves replacing the entire controller ports

>>962273

It can't be torn rubber pads, considering i can play Super mario bros 1, Lost Levels and 3 without issue, and in pocky and rocky, its just the enemy movement thats fucked up not the controller...

im gonna try and clean out the cartridges as much as i can, if not im gonna go back to the store to try and get a refund or at least a new SNES

>>962363
Try some 70% alcohol and a semi hard tooth brush and see if you can't scrub the pins a bit

also, you might want to get some canned air and see if there's anything in the slot

if you can open your SNES, it would also be worth it to check under the pins (if your SNES model has the removable pins) and see if there's any dirt in there

>>962367
unfortunately i dont have the tools to open up the SNES and i dont have any 70% alcohol either, so what im gonna do is go back to the store and ask them what the fuck is going on, i know for a fact that they have another SNES lying behind the counter, so i could ask them if i could try the games out on another SNES. if that doesnt work then there may be an issue with the cartridges...

>>961963
But the most very early PAL NES (blackbox) games, has the same ROM as the NTSC versions.

>>960525
>Some people swear by rubber erasers, which can theoretically be used to rub away stubborn dirt and corrosion without doing damage to the contacts.

Erasers are abrasive and will damage the contacts. Mildly, though.

>>963235
I don't see any damage on all my carts.
Also only use white soft 'artist' rubbers.

>>959906
>3DO teardown pls

In due time. I kinda' hate the Goldstar 3DO because it isn't even 100% compatible with all 3DO games.

Decided to clean my SNES mini today and I took some pictures

>>967601

>>967603

>>967608

>>967614

>>967618

>>967621
And the final look behind the shield to see the voltage regulator

>>963269

It'll take a lot of cleaning before you wear through the gold, but once you do it'll be obvious as you'll see a nickel layer underneath.

>>967601
Appreciated, and excellent.

This is a photo of my setup for photographing stuff for the wiki. Behold the cheapness. A dry-erase board, and I use the sun as a light source. Alas, it works best on overcast days. Direct sunlight is a bit harsh, and the reflection and diffusion would make for BLOOOOM on photos.

>>969104
That's pretty neat

I was taking them on my work bench and I have a over hanging light

>>970004
I was doing the same thing at first, but this is what the dry-erase board photos look like without any editing.

My Platinum PS2 Slim Keeps making this Loud buzzing noise when on the flat side. It's less noticeable When stood up. What do?

>>971474
Sounds like something is out of balance with the disk. Solution would be to just keep it flat

>>950831
I've tried it on genesis and game boy games to replace batteries
It works like a charm

>>950831
>>971519
A more permanent way to fix a screw is to take some solder and heat it up and then push a screw driver into it so it forms the head again

This only works on screws that are close to the surface

>>971525
That is stupid.

>>971543
It worked for me when I stripped a NES screw

>>971546
Maybe so but unless the situation is ultimately dire I wouldn't even go as far as recommending it since it can melt away the plastic.
Also solder alloy is not the most sturdy of materials you can encounter, in fact it's right there along the lines of compressed tin foil
If you ask me I'd rather use the pen trick a thousand times and if the screw is too damaged then I could spend a dollar at the hardware store for a box of new ones.
Oh also the pen trick was for torx screws, not regular chipped away phillips or frearsons, heck i don't even think you can do what you said on a torx.

>>971575
Its not about the screw, its about getting it out of the NES. I forgot to say it was an internal screw. You'll only melt the plastic if you're bad at soldering

And they make bits for opening sega gensis games

>>967608
I wonder how many people noticed that the all pins on the right are tied to the ground.

>>971647
Why the sage?

>wikia
Fucking really?
Last time I checked, /vr/ was about retro games, not Sonic fan fiction and autistic little cunts that can't write wiki pages for shit.

>>971661
Because many anons complained about me bumping threads with stupid comments, like that one.

>>971647
Almost the entire damned thing is tied to the ground, I'm not big on electronics so I must ask what the fuck does that component even DOES?

>>971665
What in gods name are you talking about?

>>971667
fair enough. I don't think it was useless though

>>971670
sonicfanon.wikia.com
sonicfanchara.wikia.com
spongefan.wikia.com
Wikia is autism central.

Still have this better version of the logo. I also have the original .ai file if anyone want it.

>>971704

OH JESUS HEAVEN FUCKING FORBID.

You know what's on the Internet? 4chan. You know what else is on the Internet? Every Wikia page ever. Better stop using that Internet if Wikia is as bad as you say, faggot.

>>971716
I'd actually like that, if you don't mind.

>>971716
Thanks for posting this again, I forgot to update it last time. It's up on the wiki now. And yeah, please email the original to me.

Also, I found an Intellivision in the wild and went to take board pics, but the damn thing is entombed in an uncrackable RF shield. The top and bottom halves of the shield are soldered to each other and to the board, so there's no way I'm dealing with that until I need to do a repair on it.

>>967601
Thanks for the pics. I've added them to the SNES page.

>>971665
Unless you know of a better free alternative that's worth migrating to, you should really just shut the fuck up.

>>972612
Some people aren't happy unless they have something to bitch about. Thus, the internet is a never-ending supply of happiness.

I'll try to do more motherboard pictorals, but as I keep saying, my horrible job makes me want to do NUCKING FOTHING every time I have a free minute.

>>972612
Cool, glad to help

Where can I find a better SNES A/C adapter? I'm worried that brick on a wire will catch on fire or something.

>>975390
Unless it's running extremely hot it wont. There's almost nothing in it just a transformer a couple of diodes and a capacitor.

>>952278

Okay, so. I'm this guy, the guy who has been trying to fix up his MD for months.

Anyhow, I've got the tissue out (I used a paperclip, it's all out) but I'm having this odd audio and cart reading problem.

So, I put my cart in (Sonic 1, Sonic 2 via Universal Adapter and Sonic 3&K) Sonic 1 work fine, it has the sound working and everything, Sonic 2 and 3&K are won't out put any sound at all. It's an MD2 so no Headphone jack. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I haven't tried retensioning the slot, so I may do that later.

As for the Cart Reading problem, it can get to the "Sega Enterprises" part, and then it sometimes will have a black screen, or will not go past the "Sega" screen (which never plays for the Sonic games, could be because of PAL, but I'm not sure)

Anyone got any ideas for how to fix this?

>>975762
Sorry, I overlooked your post before, but I'd have done something similar to get the tissue out. It sounds like the cartridge slot on your MD is working fine since Sonic 1 works. Have you tried Sonic 3 and Sonic and Knuckles individually? It could be that the cartridge slot on S&K needs a good cleaning too. I'm not sure what the universal adapter is, but I assume it's a pass-through cart of some sort like S&K, and so that probably needs to be cleaned too.

If I remember correctly, I think you said you cleaned the slot by wrapping a tissue soaked in rubbing alcohol around a credit card and inserting it into the slot. I would suggest that instead you buy the cheapest toothbrush you can find and use that with some rubbing alcohol to give the MD, S&K, and universal adapter cart slots a thorough scrubbing. This would help get rid of leftover tissue residue on the pins.

If none of that works, retensioning the slot may be your best option, but it shouldn't be your first since it's not too difficult to bend one of the pins too much, and there are something like 64 pins. How tightly do cartridges sit in your MD? Do you have to put one hand on the console to remove a cartridge without lifting the console?

Here's a really obscure question Google failed at.

What are the specs of the screws used to hold Sega stuff together? I don't mean the top and bottom halves of the cases, but the screws to hold battery packs and the like to the Game Gear, and the screw that holds the Sega CD to the Genesis. I'd like to "permanently" attach one of my Genesis systems to my Sega CD model 2, and I'm tired of it flying loose all the time.

>>976063

Shit, I didn't mean Sonic 3 and K, I just meant Sonic and Knuckles , the cart individually (I forgot they were different things). The universal adapter is pic related, and it does do that (My sonic 2 cart, is the asian version, so I need it)

I cleaned the slot originally by doing that, but it wasn't soaked in rubbing alcohol. I just pushed the card in and out, but also to the right slightly before I noticed this may be damaging the cart, about a month ago I did try to clean it after some anon recommended using Windex and a Toothbrush, which I did, but it started to act really weird and was fizzy, so I started cleaning it out with Tissue, and that's how it got stuck in there, I've got it out though. I have cleaned the carts, but I may as well do it again, since there may be tissue or dirt on them.

As for the slot, I can literally hold the console by the cartdige, I just picked it up now by Sonic and Knuckles, and it holds pretty well. It is kind of loose as I can jiggle the cartridge back and forth in the slot, but apart from that it holds.

It really is just the audio problem that's annoying me, since Sonic 1 works, but nothing else does.

>>976646
>and I'm tired of it flying loose all the time.
To be totally, honest, how the fuck do you manage that?

>>977019
he lives on a fault line and has parkinson's, and is allergic to all wood except balsa, so all his furniture has the density of a ritz cracker

How in the hell do you put on a CD lid spring for the PS1?

I've been trying for the last half hour or so, and googling but I don't know how to do it.

I will show a pic in a bit, but someone must know what I'm talking about, it's the thing that opens the PS1 up when you press the open button. It's at the top of the case.

>>977019
What a Californian kind of response. Try carrying the whole assembly with one hand and see if it wouldn't be easier if the Genesis was locked in place.

>>977453
You need the right spring.

>>977453

I have it, it came off when I tried to clean it.

I want to know how to put it back on, I have no idea.

Generally hate to do this, but bumping.

>>978412
If I weren't on vacation, I'd open up my PSX and take a picture for you. Could someone else help this guy out?

I'll be home Thursday night, so I'll post a pic for you then if no one else has.

>>981515

Nah, I sort of fixed it.

It's not perfect, but it opens just fine, and it's in there.

But, if you get the time, I wouldn't mind, just so I could improve it.

Also, it's that hinge that pops the CD lid up.

What is the best way to mod a PS1 to play burned games? I bought a MM3 chip but I am not that great at soldering.

On a side note, what's the best way to play ps1 games? I haven't had good luck with emulators (computer sucks) and my soft modded ps2 won't play burned ps1 games.

>>981515
PSX isn't retro.

>>982156
Just like your parents aren't siblings.

>>982174

>>981662
Soldering is easy. Just watch a few youtube videos on the subject, and practice with junk like spare wires and such. Remember, you heat the lead (as in lead or follow), not the solder. You get the leg of the chip hot, and touch solder to it. For best effect, dab some flux onto whatever you're trying to attach the solder to.

>>982574
what is that? a devkit?

>>987442
It's a PSX.

Is there anyway to fix a gamegears sound without replacing the capacitors? My sega CD shit on itself a few years back and I fixed it by wrapping a fuse in copper wire, anything similar I can do to somehow get audio for the GG?

>>987757
Nope, unless you are certain the proplem is not the capacitors you're stuck with replacing them

>>987757
>fixed it by wrapping a fuse in copper wire
Holy SHIT you should not be touching anything more electronic than a sundial.

>>987886
but it worked, saw it on youtube.
wondering if there was something similar I could do.

>>988264
The point of a fuse is to protect the circuitry behind it. All it does is connect one part of the circuit to another, but if too much current passes through it, it will blow out and prevent any more current from passing through it, protecting the system from being fried. Of course you can just use a wire to bypass the burnt-out fuse, but you put your Sega CD at risk of being completely, irreparably destroyed the next time there's a surge of power.

Capacitors on the other hand cannot simply be bypassed. If a bad cap is causing the problem, your only option is to replace it, but based on what you're saying, you need to take some time to learn about basic circuits and components before you do any more work on your consoles. You're doing more harm than good with half-assed copper wire repairs that you don't even solder to the board. If there were an equivalent to child protective services for consoles, I'd have called them already.

>>988382
Don't have a soldering iron or a replacement fuse for the CD. Had to make due with what I have.

>>990175
You don't have ninety cents for a fuse. Good luck buying another system.

>>990353
Maybe he doesn't have 100$ for a decent iron.

>>991727
Try seven dollars. You don't need a soldering station to replace a fuse, never mind the fact that they're rarely soldered in, and more often attached via clasps.

>>991852
Shit dude post some links then instead of telling people do this don't do that.
I don't see you posting a link to the fuse, iron or anything. That may be a little more helpful than just saying you're doing it wrong.

>>992050
There is a 100% chance you are using a browser that has a search bar in the upper right corner of the window.

You use Google to figure out the WHAT, and Youtube to figure out the HOW. It's not advanced engineering. It's less complicated than plumbing.

www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=soldering kit

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sega+CD+fuse+replacement
www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+solder
www.youtube.com/results?search_query=smd+soldering+tutorial&oq=smd+soldering

>>991852
>seven dollar soldering iron

Great choice if you want something that gets ruined after 1-2 soldering, possibly damaging the board too if you try too hard.

I should know; I started out modding consoles with an iron like that. It's completely fucking worthless and it was a gigantic chore to do even the most simplest tasks. Plus the iron head was some low grade crap and the solder literally ate it up slowly.

Even a cheaper soldering station (50$ Chinese Solomon knockoff) is light years ahead.

>>992224
OH NO I DON'T OWN A FILE. I still use my shitass Radio Shack soldering iron on occasion, and I have a goddamn degree in electronic engineering. Filed the tip into a flat blade.

>>992224

Keep the tip cleaned and tinned.

If it gets blackened then use a very mild abrasive to remove it and then retin the tip.

Just don't sand down to the copper core.

My N64 seems to be having some troubles with the A/V cable. It seems there is a short or something in it. Sometimes you have to wiggle the cable just right to get it to work.

I've been trying to open the little case on the cable just to check it out, but it seems like an impossible task. Did the plastic just wear down? Any ideas here?

>>993636
Jesus, just buy security bits and open the case proper, then check the solder connections for the AV connector.

Why do people always try to ice skate uphill when the tools you need to do this stuff cost less than a sandwich?

>>993681
It's not the 64 case I was trying to open. The cable itself has a little case on it that is clipped together I wanted to check out first. Just can't get it off.

>>993721
Then jeweler's screwdrivers and a friend, IIRC.

>>993636
If the problem is with the cord itself, it would be easiest just to replace it. Buy one off of ebay for $5 or keep an eye out for one in a thrift store. I've never found a good way to open those connectors, and I'm not sure there's much you could do if you did. If another cord produces the same results, the problem could be with the solder joints in the system as >>993681 pointed out.

>>992224
>Plus the iron head was some low grade crap and the solder literally ate it up slowly.

Copper iron tips do that normally, even high quality ones (mind you so will clad ones if you ruin the cladding with hamhanded handling).

The copper slowly dissolves over time as you work with the solder. The advantages of bare copper are that they provide better heat transfer than clad tips, and that they're easy to maintain no matter how badly you abuse them. There's no cladding to worry about and there's no tarnish or damage you can't fix with a simple file.

Once the tip is worn down to nothing, you replace it. No tip lasts forever, not even clad ones.

The problem with cheap pencil irons is rarely ever build quality. They're already very simple instruments, and even the shittiest Chinese manufacturer knows soldering irons inside and out.

The problem is that they're bulky and uncontrolled, meaning the iron requires skill to use effectively that a newbie likely won't have.

>>994214
>I've been trying to open the little case on the cable just to check it out, but it seems like an impossible task. Did the plastic just wear down? Any ideas here?

If it only affects that cable, a wire may have cracked loose. Both halves of the connector are held together by four plastic posts, which are glued together. You'll break the posts when you open the connector.

Gently hammer something between the connector's seams and pry the two halves apart to gain access to the interior. Repair the cracked solder joint or frayed wire and then glue the two halves of the connector back together.

You can even desolder and swap pins around to make a custom connector. I had to do this to correct the shitty design on some svideo+composite cables I had, since the cocksuckers at the factory fed composite to the svideo connector instead of Y/C.

Just found a RROD'd 360 for $10 at my local vinnies.
It has the error code 0011. I've never really repaired game consoles, what are the do's and dont's?

just finished this dreamcast vga mod the other day. opted for soldering to the actual display port pins as opposed to the test pads on the bottom of the board.

mostly because i like to route things as short and neat as possible.

looks great on my 51" samsung

>>996949
ran out of strip board, used a blank and cut it up myself.

>>996942
People tend to advertise reflow services on Craigslist. As in, they will bake the motherboards of 360s and PS3s to fix their respective LOD errors caused by ICs breaking their solder connections.

>>997031
But the good question is:
Will it last?
And the even better question:
How long?

I once baked a NVIDIA 8800GTX in the oven, it lasted 6 mouths of daily but weak (i barely played graphic intense games) use.
The 2nd try in the oven wasn't successful at all.

>>997364
For the 360, if they also shim the heat sink, it should last for years, if not decades. There are Youtube videos detailing the procedure.

>>996942
http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/xbox-360-error-codes-explained-and-how-to-fix-them.2480/

According to that, 0011 is an overheating CPU, not necessarily something that requires a reflow. I would suggest removing the heatsinks and applying fresh thermal paste, preferably Arctic Silver 5. If it needs a reflow, try a heat gun instead if you can get ahold of one. That's worked for me for two 360's and a PS3 now. The oven method is like the lazy dorm room equivalent.

>>997364
My 360s and PS3 have been working for over a month, but from what I've read they probably won't last a whole year. The best method is to get the CPU and GPU reballed with lead-based solder, but that's very expensive (~$80+), and you have to mail off your 360 to a professional; you cannot do it without professional equipment. Really, 7th gen consoles, Wii excluded, were not built to last. It makes the lack of backwards compatibility in 8th gen even more of a slap in the face.

>>996949
>>996956
That's really fucking cool. Do you think you could put up some info about it on the wiki, or at least just links to the guides you used?

>>996527
I dunno, he 50$ Solomon knockoff soldering station I bought since has shown absolutely zero degradation in a year, while my old 7$ iron ate itself if I did not clean/re-tin it every 5-10 minutes. The tip oxidized so fast that only a portion of the tip remained usable, and that part got eaten by the solder. The Solomon knockoff I'm using doesn't even oxidize much, and when it does, I just wipe it clean on a wet sponge and its as good as new. I sometimes leave it going for an hour without touching it, while I'm looking up schematics and such, and it just needs a quick wipe. The old one was impossible to wipe, it oxidized so much, unless I cleaned it every 5-10 minutes. It also took 2x longer for it to heat itself up.

I recently bought two SNES games yesterday for £2, they were Starwing (lel) and Super Mario All Stars.

Now, I found them in a very dirty box full of crap, literally it was just hiding with the broken CD's and cases, electronics I had never even seen before, wires, papers and more crap. I assume it was chucked in there and the guy didn't know, or he did and didn't know what to do with them.

Oh, and to make matters worse, it was raining that day, and when I picked them up, they were not only dirty and yellowed to fuck, but also pretty damn wet. I remember watching some video that fucking threw SNES cartridges and boiled them and they worked afterwards, so I guess this wasn't a huge problem.

When I got home, I cleaned them using several q-tips as well as wiping down the cartridges with a damp cloth, making sure I don't go over the label and bottom too many times. When I believed they were clean enough, I popped them in my SNES, which I know works.

Super Mario All Stars was first, now it went on, and got to the selection screen but it keeps fucking up. It won't load Super Mario Bros 1 or Lost Level, it will load Super Mario Bros 2, but when I go to world one it's just a black screen playing music. (Oddly enough, when I reset the console, the last played game will be the selected one.)

When I played Starwing it just didn't even go on, it was just a black screen.

I don't have the screwdriver that Nintendo games use, so I've just been cleaning it the best I can with q-tips and rubbers, as I am unable to open it.

What should I do guys, I'm not very good with SNES games since I never owned one until this year, and SNES games are hard to find in the wild.

>>999385
>Super Mario All Stars was first, now it went on, and got to the selection screen but it keeps fucking up. It won't load Super Mario Bros 1 or Lost Level, it will load Super Mario Bros 2, but when I go to world one it's just a black screen playing music. (Oddly enough, when I reset the console, the last played game will be the selected one.)
>When I played Starwing it just didn't even go on, it was just a black screen.
Clean harder, if that doesn't work then you have to open them.

>>999483

I see, so I'd assume Q-tips and possible Cleaning Alcohol/Windex on the carts? Any other cleaning suggestions, that's all I know to do.

Also, I forgot to add in >>999385 that Super Mario Bros 3 will start, but when I try to play it, Mario will stay in the middle instead of spinning to the first level of the world map.

>>981569
Here are the pics of my PS1's lid spring. Sorry for the shit lighting. I can take it apart further and take more detailed pics if you want.

1/3

>>999927

2/3

>>999927
3/3

>>999512
Check out the wiki page on cleaning:
http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/General_Console_Cleaning

>>999927
>>999931
>>999936

Oh, thanks man. But I already fixed it.

It's not perfect, but It's fixed.

I'm more concerned about this >>999385 at the minute, so thanks for the Retro Cleaning Wiki.

>>999942
No problem, thought it still might help if you didn't get it to fit on correctly.

As for >>999385 , there may still be some moisture in the cartridges from the rain. Those carts have almost no ventilation and so it'll take a long time for them to dry out completely. You should open them and let them air out for a couple of hours.

>>999975

I don't own the screwdriver to open SNES carts.

Should I just leave them in a hot/dry place for a few days, maybe a week?

>>1000131
That might be your best option if you can't get the carts open, but at some point you may want to consider going on ebay and ordering the screwdriver bit. I can't remember if SNES carts use the 3.8mm or 4.5mm gamebit, but you can get one of each for less than $10. They're a little pricey in my opinion, but it's nice to have them around.

Is it possible to make light guns work on flat screen tvs?
What would you need to do?

Alright, let's get it out of the way.
Yes, I should be using a CRT. Yes, it's not how retro consoles were meant to be played. But, for reasons that don't need to be explained, I want to do this on a flat screen.

Light gun and light gun games general

>>1000997
They sell the bits in kits at placed like Five Below. Step it up, slackers.

I bought a set like ten goddamn years ago for TWO DOLLARS, and they're holding up fine to this day.

>>1000997
>3.8mm
for cartridges (NES, GB, SNES, N64 and 2 screws of the Super Scope)
>4.5mm
for consoles (SNES, N64 and GC) and power supplies (N64, GC and Wii)

>>1000997

I see, well I'll buy them soon, as for now. Should I leave them in the sun or is it possible to hair dry them, or would that damage them?

Also, even though I doubt it matter, these are the games.

>>1002185
You can leave them in the sun, but keep them face-down so the labels don't fade. A hair dryer might cause the labels to come off. When you're able to open the carts, the hair dryer would be useful for drying the board.

A better option might be to encase them in a bowl of rice like people do with cellphones. I've never tried it myself though.

>>1002479

Hmm, I may do the rice thing, but I'm not sure if that will work.

Still, for now I'll hope the sun will be shining tomorrow, and place them near a window, if they don't work, then a bowl of rice.

Well I let them dry in the sun for about 9-10 hours.

They still don't work.

I'll be trying the rice trick tomorrow, and from there if they still don't work. I'll buy the screwdriver and open them.

I may post pics of the boards, to see if they're are visually fucked, but they'll be in 640x480 quality, so they may not be perfect.

>>1004859
Good luck with the rice. If you end up getting the screwdriver bits, at least then you'll also be able to get better access to the contacts. They may be corroded, and you could polish them with an eraser. If none of that works, then I don't know what to tell you.

>>1004882

Does the pen trick work?

Where you burn it and put it on the screw?

I've never tried it, but it'll be my last shot before I buy the screwdrivers.

>>1007126
Not worth wasting a perfectly good pen. The recesses for security screws tend to be pretty deep and narrow on the consoles.

I was really excited to play some Master System Light Phaser games with my Power Base Converter (Model 1 Genesis) but the gun is being really strange. I'm trying to play Shooting Gallery, and I can only hit targets near the top or very bottom of the screen. The game shoots holes into the backdrop so you can see where your shots are hitting, and shooting anywhere near the middle of the screen (like 80% of the screen, really) just yields a screen flash as if you're shooting offscreen. No bullet holes in the backdrop. Could this just be due to dust in the light phaser, or does it have something to do with my television? Obviously I'm using a CRT, but it's a flat screen (not widescreen) and it has component and s-video ports on the back. I'm not very familiar with how this would affect the game. Anybody have any ideas?

>>1008037
Try another Zillion gun, perhaps (what? yes, watch Zillion, and look at your Light Phaser), or take yours apart and clean the plastic lens in it. Clean the TV, play in the dark, and try playing with the contrast levels. Most light gun games would black out the screen briefly, popping white boxes on the items that were targets during X number of sweeps, and the timing of when the gun saw white, compared to what was white at the time, registered a hit on that item. Ingenious.

>>1008046
Haha, yes I know the Light Phaser is from Zillion. ;) One of my favorite Master System games (like I need to even say that). I didn't know playing in the dark or different contrast would affect that! I'll try all of these things before taking my gun apart. Thank you!

>>997448
i used http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/dreamcast-internal-vga-mod/ for the general information then took it how i saw fit.

definitely worth it, looks so sharp.

i think it looks better all contained in the modem port space, its not like i'd ever use the modem anyways.

>>1007126
>>1007189
I've done it a few times when I either lost my gamebit or before I had one.

Heat up the end (with the plug) until it looks soft and shiny.

shove the mother into the screw hole and HOLD IT THERE

after 30 or so seconds, in a hard twist while pushing down, the screw will come out.

You get two or three unscrewings before having to remelt the same or new pen.

also: picrelated, just file down a security bit you get out of a US$1 bit kit

>>971665
lol XD I CALL PEOPLE AUTISTIC ALL THE TIME AM I EDGY YET, GUYS DO YOU NOTICE ME YET????????

GUYS??? COME ON!!

Time to jump off the internet if you can't be within the same space as others.

My SNES's ejector is sticking, it only ejects games half way and I have to pull (quite hard) for the game to come out. I have just started pulling and pressing eject at the same time to solve this but what will add more power/loosen up the games?

>>1010063
Tim Allen and a bit of Vaseline

OK guys weird question. I have a dead Colecovision brand RF box. Now usually I'd just go to Radio Shack and buy another one to use, but I like the big Coleco sticker on the dead one - so the question is, can I swap the guts from a working RF to a broken RF box? If so what am I in for? Do I need a soldering iron?

Thanks

>>1011885
>can I swap the guts from a working RF to a broken RF box?
If it's just an RF switchbox, sure. Just remember that old switchboxes tend to be made of steel, so be sure to line the inside of the box with electrical tape or something else to insulate the RF switch board.

>>1010063

The white plastic T-shape in this pic is the ejector. The button pushes down on the wide bit, it pivots around the long thing part of the T and two tabs you can see either side of the cartridge connector push up on the cart to loosen it. If the button gets stuck before pressing down all the way there's probably either something in the way, or the metal bar inside has somehow slipped out so it's not pivoting properly. Maybe it's just shit jammed in around the eject button.

Open it up and take a look, it's not complicated. If you don't have a gamebit you can use a lighter to melt a pen over the screws, but this is pretty annoying to open a SNES with as the holes are really deep.

>>1012097
I've just realised it could be an American console, in which case the image doesn't apply. Just open it up and do something about it

>>1012102
>Just open it up and do something about it
new motto for /vr/

Not sure if this belongs here, but I'm trying to play Champions of Norrath on my old (FMCB-modded) PS2. It gets stuck at the loading screen and won't progress further.

>>1012140
It's a 30003R series if that matters

>>1012140
And I guess I should explain I'm running a downloaded ISO on my PS2 HDD. Most stuff other than this game worked (at least about 3 months ago when I last powered my PS2 on)

>>940139
add more solder, wait a bit for it to cool, try to desolder again

desoldering ICs is a tedious process without an actual desoldering iron

>>1011902
I think I fucked it up..... I got new guts in the old RF box but the picture is complete shit now. ..

>>1012810
Well, desoldering braid or a solder vacuum (spring loaded) are cheap, and you can always do it over. Hell, you don't even need a SWITCH, in most cases! Since VHF broadcasts are dead, and you're not likely to use multiple RF devices at the same time, you can just connect the lead from the system right to the coaxial jack of your TV/VCR/whatever with a simple phono/RCA to coaxial adapter. It's how I connect my Atari systems to my VCR. Don't pay more than a buck or two for one.

So, I tried the rice thing for my SNES catridges.

They still don't work.

Also, somehow Starwing has gotten rice inside it. No idea how.

I'm going to buy the gamebit, is this the correct one.

http://www.nintendorepairshop.com/products/82-38mm-Gamebit-Nintendo-Cartridge-Opening-Security-Tool/

3.8mm

>>1014950
Yeah, that's the right one. The bigger one is for the consoles.

Also, look for a better price.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=3.8mm+gamebit&_sop=15

>>1014974

Before I do that, I'm going to do the pen trick, is this >>1009584 the correct way to do it.

Burn the side where the pen comes out for 30 seconds or so (gonna use a lighter for it)
Shove it into the screw
Wait for it to mould
Twist really hard (left or right?)
It should come out.

>>1014983
don't use the pen side, use the other, butt side.
and not a click pen, a round generic bicrelated (SWIDT).
also: i'm >>1009584 and have done it a bunch.

you would twist left...
>righty tighty, lefty loosy

>>1014998

Oh, am I meant to take out the backside?

As in the black stopper at the top? Because I'd imagine it would block the screw from gripping.

Also, I was just making sure with the last part. The screws may be different, the way you turn them could be as well.

>>1014950
>>1014974
I like it how you guys ignore this post >>1002018

Sage because it isn't exactly retro but it could be useful to some. If any of you are considering doing any modding to your gamecube and want to replace the screws 4X3/4 phillips work well. Saying this because I wish I had the information available when at the store since I forgot the security screws at home.

Link to the ones that worked well for me here:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55061-37672-490194_0__?productId=3034809

>>1015514
You contribution to this thread is surely what /vr/ needs more of.

>>1015546
No need to sage since the wiki is above such petty divisions as what is and isn't 'retro'. The information is appreciated, and would make for a good addition to the wiki, no less.

Since my car committed suicide, I find myself with much more free time stuck at home. I'll try to get hopping on some of the dusty old projects, or at least perhaps photographing more content for the wiki.

>>1015562
Ah, just didn't want to upset anyone on /vr/. I think I'll get around to making my other flashcart/modchip image this weekend, no promises but I think I'll have time.

I eventually want to make guides or reviews for modding as well.

>>1015514

Snes guy here.

I remember someone posted that and found it. I just didn't post or anything because I didn't feel the need to.

Bleh, afternoon off, and it's too sunny to take pictures. Everything would turn out like this.

Hey there, I've recently picked up a Grape Purple N64 and now I'm thinking of trying to put some LED's into my Jungle Green console to make it look abit more awesome

Anyone know of a decent guide for something like this? I've seen youtube videos and they're never detailed about what to do and when I google it everyone says to go to the Ben Heck forums and I can't find anything great there either.

In short, I'm looking for a guide to installing 4-5 LED's in my 64

>>1020226
Adding LEDs to a console seldom makes it look better.

>>1020226
The N64 gets 3.3V and 12V from it's power supply, and 5V is generated internally from the 12V using a 78M05 (SMD).
If you don't get the idea of calculating the your needed resistor values, then i can't help you.

> button stops working on gamepad
> take gamepad apart
> contact is super rusty and corroded

i was thinking of cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and then spraying wd40 on it so that it can conduct once again..

y/n?

>>1020439
post pic

>>1020439

The rubbing alcohol is good, as well as brushing away the corroded material but the case still remains that an electrical connection must be established. If it doesn't look like it's conducting, then solder it onto place.

I recently picked up a fairly cheap snes and an everdrive, since I haven't had an snes in years. But, whenever the color blue is displayed onscreen, this happens. My first thought is that it might be the cord, so I swapped it out for another one, exact same issue, I even tried another crt just to make sure it wasn't related to that, but the yellow blurring seems the same on everything. Only thing I haven't tried is output via the RF out, because I don't have an adapter handy(that isn't deep in the shed somewhere). Is this a problem anyone has seen before, or is it likely a 'snes is fucked' problem?

>>1020497
Does other cartridges have this problem?

Is your PSU ok?
Try a other (compatible) one if you have it.

What are you using, S-Video or Composite?

Can you disassemble the SNES?
Maybe there's something wrong inside.

>>1020627
Composite, and I got it for cheap because the plug from the PSU is hotglued into the snes, so I'm betting the plug is broken or something like that. It's possible for me to disassemble it, but I'd have to remove the hotglue, first. I'll give the other cart I have a shot really fast, and report results.

>>1020657
Yes, it still blurs with another cartridge(in fact, a multitude of colors blur with this cart, namely that tealish blue blurring out yellow, but also green blurring out a purple-blueish color)

>>1020657
>the plug from the PSU is hotglued into the snes
This isn't good, power problems could cause graphic glitches like that.
The preowner probably broke the power jack and fixed it the bad way.
You should post pics from the power jack, so i can see how bad it is.

>>1020681
Then something could be wrong with the video encoder, it's possible that the bad power connection is causing that.
(the everdrive is using more power than a regualar cart)

>>1020709
Pretty bad. Probably 8/10 on the scale of horrible.

>>1020725
I would say 6/10, but anyways you should be able to take the top off.
And uncover the shield below the eject lever, that's the place where the most important stuff is.

I'm considering getting a NES. From what I've read, the US top-loader version is the one to get, because it avoids some problems with the front-loader. Is that right? Or are there any problems with the top-loader? I'm planning to use it with a flash cart.

Also, for the flash carts I've looked at (everdrive and powerpak) there's stuff about mappers, but I can't seem to find a clear list of unsupported games. Are there many games not supported by these flash carts?

>>1020734
Alright, I assume its just a few screws on the bottom of the console, right?

>>1020742
Oh, looks like all the screws on the bottom of the console are that security screw crap. I guess I'll have to order one of those or something.

>>1020736
Yeah many people have problems with the ZIF connector used in the frontloader.
You should take a look at this:
>http://console5.com/wiki/Improving_NES-001_Reliability

>>1020745
I asked you about this.
>Can you disassemble the SNES?
But there are alternatives.
see these posts:
>>1009584
>>1014983
>>1014998

>>1020736
It's the most reliable model but it lacks composite out so you have to use RF by default which looks blurry as hell. You can have it AV modded though

>>1020753
Ah, alright. Ordering a screwdriver for it is probably just as easy, though.

>>1020776
i lost my pair of screwdrivers, so i'm going to order these:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377450792&sr=8-1&keywords=snes+screwdriver
seems legit? only 7 bucks

>>1020821
Yes, and you can open your games for cleaning them.

>>1020821
I have this set. They're not the highest quality set of screwdrivers but they get the job done.

How would I go about fixing a broken N64 cartridge, the circuit board is broke in 2.

>>1022519

Map out all the traces running from one half to the other over the break, scratch off the solder mask over a spot on each matching trace on each side, then solder small lengths of wire to each. Use a heavy gauge wire for the ground plane.

Once wired back up, epoxy the two halves back together with a non-conductive epoxy (ie: not JB Weld).

>>1020725
They make entire new jacks for about $12. You're going to have to solder some points though and undo the bad one and solder the new one on

>>1015030
no leave it in, it'll melt up good. it's the only thing thta should melt, really.

I need help guys. Every time I tried to play my N64 with other people, the second controller port doesn't work. Is there any way I can fix this? I don't want to sell the console as it was a gift

>>1023426
you might just have to reflow the solder joints. All the other controllers work?

>>1020725 here

While I'm waiting for the screwdrivers, I decided to cut all the hotglue off. It doesn't even seem like it needed the hotglue; I mean, yeah the center is broken, but the metal pin is still there and makes contact fine. Could this still be the problem, or should I not bother ordering a replacement jack and hold off till the screwdrivers get here?

>>1023430
Yeah. Just the second one for now.

>>1023431
>but the metal pin is still there and makes contact fine
You don't know if the power jack contact is 'good', unless you measure the voltage in the inside.
But still, better get a replacement jack. Just think when the SNES shuts off while you playing a long game.
And you still need to take a look at the video encoder.

>>1023450
Yeah, I plan to. I'll go ahead and order a power jack while waiting on the screwdrivers, though.

For a good year now, my NES has been having darker colors then I know it should have. Any suggestions?

>>1023506
Power supply.
The PPU doesn't like it when the voltage is too low, sprites could glitch and the video output can get dark (not able to drive the video amp correctly).

>>1020842
That sounds really complicated.
Would a picture help, ill upload one later today.

>>1023519
I'm not too familiar with console fixing, what do I need to get to replace it.

>>1023531
Try a other PSU, 9-12V (can be AC or DC) at least 850mA.
The plug must fit.

>>1023358

Oh okay thanks.

So 30 seconds under the heat, slam it it, leave it there and twist left?

Does size matter, mine pen is pretty big for the screw.

>>1023663
>Does size matter, mine pen is pretty big for the screw.
If you don't mind, I'm going to start saying that exact line when I meet new people.

>>1023674
>So 30 seconds under the heat, slam it it, leave it there and twist left?
This too.

>>1023663
As long as it fits all the way in the hole, it's good.

>>1023674

Sure, knock yourself out.

>>1023826

It's bigger than the hole though, it doesn't fit in there, it goes on top of it.

I ctrl+f'ed repair on the catalog and this thread seems relevant

I have this copy of Star Fox that is non functioning due to the case cracking so the game won't seat properly, I'm sure it's an easy fix but I just bought a new copy so if anyone wants this just shoot me an email and I'll mail it to you, first come first serve

Might as well post this here

I found the required caps for a SEGA CD MK-4102A (JVC Optima-6). Its a model 2 sega CD

VOLTAGE UF AMMOUNT
6.3 47 3
6.3 100 6
6.3 1000 1
16 10 2
16 100 2
16 330 1
50 1 1
50 10 29
50 0.47 1

Also, a note on the Sega Power base converter capacitors

VOLTAGE UF AMMOUNT
16 47 2
50 1 1

>>1025612
We should try and get a list of capacitors and how many is needed for each system. I think that would be a great asset to the Wiki.

If anyone wants to do that, that would be awesome.

>>1020725 here
Everything looks alright to my eye? I don't see any messed up solder joints or anything from a quick glance.

>>1026614
I don't see the Video encoder here. (My PAL console had it under the shield)
Look for a little IC named BA6592F or S-ENC.
Also look closer to PPU2 pins 95-97 (RGB), maybe apply pressure with your fingertip (discharge yourself before touching anything).

>>1026637
>maybe apply pressure with your fingertip
*while the console is running and showing that problem.

God damnit, I have these wires that solder flat out refuses to stick to. Why? My tip is clean and properly tinned and the wires are clean also and being well heated.

>>1026643
>>1026637
Gave this a shot, same yellow lines next to the blue, and applying pressure had no change on the blurs at all.(I did, however, have to fuck with that broken power plug a fair bit to get it turn on)

>>1026684
Then it's probably the video encoder.
I just looked up your revision, the video encoder is under the heatsink (I don't think you can see it easily) at the left opposite side to the APU (big metal box, for sound).
You could try turning the Variable capacitor C1 (only little bit) but i don't think that it could fix your problem.
You should take the mainboard out (for removing the heatsink), make sure that you discharge the console (unplug PSU then turn on, the power LED will flash).
And it would be wise to isolate the power switch pins (with tape or similar) when you take it off, 9-10V flow through and if it accidentally falls into the 5V powered circuits it could damage the chips beyond repair (i learned this the hard way).
The heatsink is used for the 7805 voltage regulator, the 7805 could run without it but not for long (2-5mins, you will smell it when it gets hot)

>>1026675
Replace the wire.

>>1026713
Ah, alright, thanks man. I'll post back here whenever the part gets here.

>>1026785 here
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the SNES power adapter supposed to put out 10 volts? Because mine is putting out 13.7, its nintendo brand, too.

>>1026823
It's rated at 10 volts, but there are many factors such as operating temperature, mains voltage, and inherent unreliability that will put it off one way or the other. The 7805 voltage regulator in the SNES will work fine with voltages as high as about 17 volts (although you probably wouldn't want to run that close to the line, for the reasons above), which is why they picked 10 volts for the power adapter. With 10v, even if it goes a few volts over or under the rated voltage, the SNES will still power up and resist damage.

Of course, if you find that your power supply is heating up unusually or anything else on top of the rather bad voltage control it seems to be displaying, you might want to think about replacing it with something else that fits. If you have any of those radioshack adapters with the swappable plugs, you can buy plug type 'R' and insert it with negative-tip polarity for it to work with a SNES.

>>1026853
Oh, alright, was half-hoping that that was the problem.

>>1026853
Actually the official SNES power supply is unregulated. Also the NES RF modulation circuit and the SNES AudioAmp is supplied with this higher voltage.
>https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/103
>If you have any of those radioshack adapters
The maximum output current (on 9-12V) must be higher than 850mA or else glitches can occur.

>>1026881
Yeah, multimeter says the power adapter was putting out 5A, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Actually, something I should probably mention, I haven't tried the RF-out to see if it has a yellow blur as well(because for some reason I've lost all my RF boxes I know I have lying around somewhere), but it shouldn't be possible for multi-out plug to be the issue, should it?

>>1026916
>multimeter says the power adapter was putting out 5A
YOU JUST DID IT WRONG, and you could break the PSU and the multimeter.
You know, just trust the rating on the PSU when it comes to current.
Only measure the voltage, if you want to check it.

>>1026937
Of course, are the solder joints okay?

>>1026939
Looked fine to me, yeah. Definitely not a visible burn or broken joint.

>>1026937
>>1026939
Wait i just check the schematic, the CVBS from the encoder goes to the RF modulator and then to a little amp (that drives the 75ohm load in the TV).
Have you looked at the encoder and the components at the other side yet?

>>1026961
Yeah, honestly I can't see anything wrong on the board at all(except for a rattling sound that comes from around the power socket/rf box area I can't pinpoint, probably the broken socket). Even held it up to a light to make sure there weren't any iffy looking circuits. Can post pictures if you want.

>>1026970
I suspect that some components of the encoder are causing that.
The marked ones on the pic are likely causing that, and i don't know where precisely there are.

>Can post pictures if you want.
Would be good, they should be sharp so i can clearly see the SMD markings.
And both sides of the encoder, so that i can find these i marked.

It's dark outside, i'm probably gonna answer in 18 hours.

>>1026970
forgot pic

>>1027003
Alright, I'll break out my decent camera and take a few full board shots, then.

>>1027024
Oops, just realized both of these are upside down, doesn't really effect readability though.

>>1027024
Bottom ended up kinda out of focus, but still readable.

>>1027121
That cart slot most likely comes off. The whole thing looks dirty, so I'd give it a good clean.

To get the cartage slot off, pull up on each end and lift straight off.

As for the jack in the back, you can pick up a new one for $12 but you have to have some skills in soldering

>>1028174
Yeah, bought one a couple days ago, waiting on it to get here.

>>1027117
>>1027121
Found them, i suspect these in the way how your problem image looks.
Becuase the Y (Luminance, brightness) looks unaffected in your pic, but the color is.

Look closer (best with a magnifying glass) at these components and the S-ENC (pay attention to 1,24,10 and 11) if you see a crack in the solder,
or you could apply a bit pressure to these points (with your finger and have a piece of paper between to prevent conductivity from your body resistance) and see if something changes on the TV

Now verify the marked resistors (black with numbers) with the schematic i posted,
and check the capacitors (brown ones, use the conductivity beep mode of your multimeter) if they cause a shortcircuit
or if they charge (measure both ends, hold the +probe on one end and the -probe on the other then quickly reverse it, the multimeter should beep for a very short time).

Also measure the path from these components to the S-ENC (the marked pins, see schematic) and if C15 and C13 are connected to the ground.

If nothing helped, then the S-ENC video encoder is probably faulty, and finding a drop-in replacement is harder than getting a new different encoder.

But installing a different encoder is quite complicated (there's no easy and tested guide for it) but possible, because these require other external components than the stock S-ENC.
I would recommend the CXA1645 (exists as DIP and SMD) or the CXA2075 (SMD only but the best analog RGB encoder that exists)

>>1026823
SNES power adapter is unregulated there's no way to accurately measure it when there's no load on it. If you want to measure it you have to turn the console on and measure the "V in" on the 7805. Regardless of what the "V in" is the "V out" should always be 5V

With every day ticking away your precious retro video games are dying.

Be it the one capacitor in the game or the clusters of them inside. They are dying.

So, /vr/ I come to you with a question. Where can some one who's looking to replace capacitors in retro consoles and games get them for cheap?

I was looking at getting some from http://www.alibaba.com/ but I don't know about their rep.

Also, the wiki really needs to have cap lists for each revision of main boards for consoles. That would help tremendously.

Hey guys, SNES cart anon here. >>999385

Just bought the screwdriver and opened them up.

Haven't taken a picture of them yet, but I'll give a rundown of what happened.

Opened up Starwing first, it had two pieces of rice in there. Which I cleaned out. I then got a pencil and used the rubber on the back to clean the pins. I did both sides, then used a q tip to get rid of any bits that fell off the rubber (also got some black stuff on there too). Oh, and I noticed the plastic was a bit dirty, so I washed it with a damp cloth, and let it dry in the window (face down of course).

As for the Super Mario All Stars cart. I did the same thing, but noticed that there was a watch battery or something attached. I'm wondering if that is the cause of the problem? As I said in that post. The game works, but won't load the games on the cart, so maybe it's that watch battery in the cart?

Should I replace it? I mean it's probably been in there for more than 20 years, and then stuffed away somewhere awful for about 15.

So, now I'm just playing the waiting game. I don't want to check either cart until Starwing is dry, and I know if I should replace the Super Mario All Star battery.

>>1030819
>the rubber on the back
We call that an eraser, anon. :)

>>1030819
That battery is a save back up

Most SNES games that had a save function use them to keep up the memory. Its most likely a CR2032. If you have soldering skills, you can order one of amazon for cheap usually.

You have to take the old one off, then put the new one in the slot where the old one was.

Try and find a CR2032 with soldering tabs attached. Take note, that they're bent so the ones with the tabs sticking straight out won't work (unless you some how bend them)

>>1030824

ur 1 cheeky cunt m8

u dissin UK now?

>>1030839

I see.

But, I thought it was as simple as just taking it out by bending the tab and putting the new one back there.

Do I really need a solder? I don't own one, Can't I just take the battery out, and put the new one in?

Is it even affecting the game like I said?

>>1030842
NOOOOOOOOooo

Do NOT rip it out

Its not that easy. If you do, you stand ripping out the solder points and then the cart is just dead then.

You really do need a soldering iron to take them out properly.

It's quite easy, just get a hobby iron and let it heat up real good.

And it might. does the game boot? If it straight up doesn't boot, then it might be that. If you can get in and select a game, then that game doesn't boot, it might be something else

>>1030842
Those tabs are tack welded to the batteries. If you're patient enough, you can pry at them and pop the welds, but solder is the better way to go.

That said, the batteries shouldn't be keeping the games from playing, they only affect the ability to hold a save after the power is turned off.

>>1030848

Okay, I won't rip it out. I wasn't even going to I was going to gentle try to push the battery out.

The game itself boots, but the roms inside the game don't. Super Mario 1 and Lost Chapters don't boot. Super Mario 2 boots but won't go to the first level (plays the music though) and Super Mario 3 goes to the map screen but nothing else. Mario is just stuck in the middle. Music plays though.

>>1030851

I see. So I should just try the games now, and see if they're working. If not, I can assume they're fucked?

>>1030854
I'd suggest cleaning around the feet of the chips with q-tips and isopropyl if you haven't already. Otherwise, give them a shot.

>>1030868

I don't own any isopropyl, but I'm looking online for it.

Could I use something called Surgical Spirit, I heard it's basically the same thing. I don't want to spend that much.

>>1030876
>Surgical Spirit
Looks to just be a naming difference. So long as it's just the alcohol and distilled water(i.e no scents/perfumes/etc) it should be perfectly fine.

>>1030881

Eh, okay. I'll look for that today.

Anyhow, if I get it I'll let you guys know.

>>1030951
Also, cleaning the cartage slot of the SNES with a medium tooth brush and the isopropyl alcohol isn't a bad idea. Let it dry before trying anything though

>>1030601
Bumping for sources of good capacitors

>>1030979
You're kidding, right?

http://www.jameco.com/

>>1031141

This is Super Mario All Stars.

Here are the boards. (sorry for shitty 640x480 quality)

This one is Starwing

While chipping my ps1, all the solder from the spot beside point 52 snapped off onto the wire. Now I have nothing to solder the wire to. Am I fucked or is there some way to refill this little spot?

>>1031217

It looks like there is still some there, just apply heat and put more solder on to it. Failing that, if the copper came off the board then you can either scrape away the green coating to expose the trace leading up to that point and solder to it, or solder to the pin on that chip which is looks like it connects to. It's hard to see in the pic, though

>>1031342

Looking more closely, I think that trace joins those 3 pins at the corner of the chip, so this is for ground, right? You could just hamfist a big-ass blob of solder across those three pins and stick the wire in there if that's the case.

>>1030982
No, No I'm not

I'm also looking to get them cheap too

>>1032195
>>1030982
I've never heard of Jameco

How do they stack up against the competition?

>>1032214
Also getting an error trying to search

>>1032214
They work fine for me, but I only order components once every few years.

>>1032226
Well, they're not Rubycon or Sanyo/Nippon but I might give them a try.

I just wonder if they're low ESR

So sage for non-retro, but I'm not sure where to ask this (I never go to /v/), but I have an original sixaxis with a completely worn out left analog stick mechanism (it always points forward).

Has anyone found a reliable replacement for this bit (lots of shops on ebay say there the ones they sell only fit DS3s), or better yet, fixed it without dishing out for new parts?

>>947156

Are you reballing them, or what?

I got a question about Atari controllers. I have a few Atari 2600s and on one of them it seems to not be able to read the right direction for some reason. I tested the controllers on other systems, and they seem to work alright, but not on this one system.

I checked and the one that is working, the pad inside seems to not be good (as in it has no resistance when I push on it). I hook up one that has a good pad (has resistance) and the Atari refuses to read the right direction. Both controllers seem to have a good condition so I'm wondering if its the system

What the hell is going on?

>>1035154
connection*

I'm trying to see if all my Atari joysticks are bad or is it my system.

>>1035154
>>1035161

Take the controller apart and check to see if the white plastic ring at the base of the stick is broken. Apparently this is an issue with Atari 2600 sticks (that I have never run across with any controller I have used). Epoxy resin should be able to fix it. Super glue is pooper glue.

>>1035472
None of them are broken. What I'm saying is, a controller that works on one system doesn't seem to work on another. Its quite strange though because the contacts seem shot in the one that works

>>967601
how do you clean the pins on a toploader? Mine is a bit dirty. Q-tip and alcohol?

>>1038235
Maybe you could try a credit card wrapped in one layer of a microfiber cloth dampened in alcohol.

>>1038242
that sounds doable. thanks.

>>1038245
>>1038242
>>1038235
Beware of this. Do it VERY lightly. You risk catching the ends of the pins and bending them backwards when you pull out the cloth. A good way that hasn't really failed me yet (and is much safer) is a medium hardness tooth brush and some 70% alcohol. Go back and fourth and it should clean up the pins nicely.

>>1038096

The nonfunctional system has a dirty/dammed controller port. Check it for bent pins and broken solder joints where it connects with the PCB. It happens with VCSs (usually on the AC adapter socket).

Here's a little test for loose/broken solder joints:
>stick in a game like Adventure where you can stay on the first screen and not get mauled to death while being able to move in four directions
>start game
>hold right on your joystick/Genesis controller
>gently, but firmly rock the controller plug/port up and down
>if it works at all while you're doing this, you probably have a loose connection

Just open her up and reflow the solder points for the controller port.

>>1038335

Also, Atari sticks can be totally REKT feeling, but still work just fine.

The metal dome contacts inside the controller are probably cracked.

>>1038335
Alright, I'll take a look at those tomorrow.

I did manage to rebuild and clean the switches on my Atari that wasn't reading the game select switch.

I managed to... misplace a few springs from the reset and game select switch. I learned the hard way they're spring loaded.

Do the reset and game select springs rest on that little tab or do you want to push it in between the spring?

>>1038347
also, I might put off the whole controller port until I get my hot air rework station

Also, anyone know that tape that is super heat resistant? I need it because I'm going to be using hot air to try and get components off boards

>>1038361
>using hot air to try and get components off boards

What? Just heat the solder up a gently pull the component away from the board.

It's surprisingly easy.

>>1038415
Well, I don't have a good soldering iron and I figured that I might as well spring for a combo hot air and soldering iron. Plus its a birthday present.

>>1038421

Oh, cool.

That sound like a neat bit of kit.

For what it's worth though, I do all of my /vr/ repairs with my $7 Radio Shack iron.

>>1038425
It seems worth it.

I was using a 25 watt one, but it barely melts the solder and really, I have to leave it on for longer then I'd like.

the kit I'm getting is this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEAL9XI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It can take the same tips as a Hakko or Weller but at a cheaper price then their units. It also has a safety feature and auto turns off the hot air gun when you put it back in the holster

>>1038430
>but it barely melts the solder and really, I have to leave it on for longer then I'd like.

That shouldn't happen as long as the tip is cleaned and tinned.

>>1038437
Well, it was a cheap hobby one and I might have fucked up the tip. Ah well, I'm upgrading soon anyways