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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 1.12 MB, 2571x1490, 2600jr_board_top.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834231 No.834231[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

http://retroconsoles.wikia.com

Last thread 404'd, but there is still work to be done!

WHAT IT IS: A wiki for repairs, mods, and technical info for all consoles, handhelds, and old computers.

HOW YOU CAN HELP:
- Take a look around the wiki and fill in any information you can.
- Check out the wanted pages and make a stub or an entire page if you feel up to it.
- We need more motherboard pics!
- Make a mod or repair page. It doesn't have to be super detailed; someone else can fill in the gaps later. If you're not sure where to put the page, just make it and an admin will rename/relocate it.
-For mods and repairs, it's fine to link to external guides and videos.
- Give us your feedback!

>> No.834243

>>834231
It's shit.

I'm kidding, it's great, and I love how it's coming along. I'd contribute, but others can likely do it much better.

>> No.834274

>>834243
Don't worry about people doing something "better" than you. Doing anything at all is what matters. This is a collaborative effort, not a competition. Is the frame of the car less important than the engine?

Perhaps we should temporily focus on some of the modern systems? Alas, except for my Wii, my modern systems are a shambles. My PS3 is the original model, and is missing a USB port (which is part of why it was given to me), and is also a bit scuffed up. My 360 is the original style, arcade version (HDMI port, no chrome tray bezel). My PS2 is a slim.

I dunno. I'd like it if people would put requests on the request page. Having some secondary objectives helps get more work done, versus "fill in this unbounded empty space".

>> No.834310

My sega cd model 2 makes a sound when I open it, how can I fix this? (it still works)

>> No.834316

Where is the GX4000?
Where are the popular 8 bit and 16bit computers as well?

>> No.834329

>>834274
I agree that we should get some stuff done for modern consoles. I'm still waiting for a part for my PS3, but once that gets here I'll get the rest of the pics I need for the laser replacement.

>>834310
What kind of sound?

>>834316
None of the current contributors know much about those computers. They belong on the wiki, but someone else needs to come along to add that information.

>> No.834503

>>834329
>I'll get the rest of the pics I need for the laser replacement.
Coolness. I'll do the same for my Goldstar 3DO, if I can be assed, and also have the free time and inititive to do it. At least I got a tripod for my phone that can be attached to my ACTUAL tripod, I think... so I should be able to do some decent-quality stuff. Pie in the sky for the moment.

>> No.834542
File: 5 KB, 1083x333, retroconsoleswikiopt.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834542

I optimized the logo a bit. I can make renders for whatever size you guys want, but I'm not sure how important the user interface is deemed at the moment.

>> No.834580

My SNES only displays in black and white now. The RF and composite outputs were both rusted, so I cleaned them as best as I could. Still displays in black and white. What should I do? (I used several RF units and compositive cables, they all produce the same result)

>> No.834594
File: 962 KB, 735x551, 1371333431253.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
834594

Are these replacing Nintendo repair threads? I couldn't find them anymore every time I checked
But,
I just got a used Xbox, and the disk tray only opens if I lightly bump it
It refused to open at first, but I replaced the danky old belt while cleaning it and now it's like it is

Any tricks to getting it open smoothly? I was thinking a little WD40 over the gears and where the tray slides, but realized I should probably consult someone that actually knows their stuff before hozing down a computer with oil

>> No.834648

It's not retro by this boards definition, but the ebook Hacking the Xbox by Andrew Huang is a must-read for anyone taking an interest in how console hacks are actually developed, and loads of details on hardware reverse engineering that it takes. It's been a free download for a short while, now.

http://nostarch.com/xboxfree

>> No.834659

>>834594
DO NOT USE WD40. IT WILL ATTRACT DUST AND SCREW SHIT UP.
Use Vasaline (or whatever brand of petroleum jelly is available to you) to lube your drive's gears.

>> No.834672

>>834659
Alright cool, I got some vasaline, good to know the consequences of wd40 now

>> No.834823

>>834659
Just slathered on some vaseline on just about every moving part in that thing, opens and closes like a dream now

When I first cleaned it, I saw what I thought to be dried out grease on some parts, but didn't do anything because the hueg is all new to me

>> No.835606

Took apart my n64 last night to clean it;

When I put it back together and tested it, it just kept resetting. I'd maybe get it to play for a few minutes(Get the first star of Bomb Bomb Battlefield, Beat Corneria)

Any thoughts?

>> No.835746

>>835606
My N64 used to self-reset, but that was corrected by a thorough cleaning of the console and cartridges. Did you clean all of your carts too? If that doesn't work, maybe you need to bend to pins back into place.

>> No.835759

>>835746
>Did you clean all of your carts too?
Yes. I know it's not the carts as I tested with my other n64. Managed to make it all the way to the StarWolf fight on Venom without a hitch.

>> No.835903

>>835759
It might be the reset switch. Try blowing that out with a can of air

>> No.838072

bump

>> No.838597

Ahem.
>>838431

>> No.838632

>>838597
I don't know anything about the C64, but this thread may be relevant:
http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36974&sid=1ba94130ee509360aca9a0d743a5cfa8

Have you tried multiple TVs?

>> No.839043

>>838597
My Atari 7800 is doing the same thing. I think this may indicate an issue with the amplifier chain in the systems. Possibly bad electrolytic capacitors, but some assfuck pitched almost all of my C64 collection, and I haven't opened up my 7800 yet.

>> No.840392

I'm sitting here, staring at an opened copy of Pokémon Silver, my first Pokémon game, with a boxcutter in one hand and a pair of tweezers in the other, trying to figure out how I can replace the battery without breaking my game.
I've consulted google, and it has no solution for my problem.

I don't know how to remove the battery without breaking the clip. It seems to be pierced(?) in two places, preventing it from being moved.

>> No.840404

How the fuck do you clean a 72 pin NES connector without ripping out the pins?

I've tried the credit card method with some cloth and rubbing alcohol, and that works most of the time, but some times the cloth gets caught on the pins and rips them out

Is there a better way?

>> No.840408

>>840392
I used an xacto knife to get mine out.

It took a while, but if you sit with it and slowly nudge at the spot welds, they will break eventually.

>>840404
Taking it out and boiling it a few times supposedly works.

>> No.840414

>>834823
Hope you didn't use vaseline on any plastic parts, or you'll be looking for new ones after a while. Vaseline eats up plastics. White lithium is better in most cases.

>> No.840419
File: 28 KB, 480x360, 1317262334840.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840419

>>840408
Hmm

I rather not boil them, you know?

Is there any type of brush that would get in there and do the same job WITHOUT ripping the pins out

>> No.840426

>>840408
Every method I've read mentions soldering.
Is this necessary or recommended?

>> No.840430

>>840426
Fucking necessary if you want to get it out in one piece

>> No.840441
File: 1.21 MB, 3280x2460, 100_3437.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
840441

>>840419
One of those small brushes they make for cleaning baby bottles could work, but I'm not all that knowledgeable on the insides of the NES.

>>840426
>>840430
Soldering in a new one is better, but not a must.

>> No.840445

>>840441
Alright, that might work

and soldering is a good way to make sure that you don't rip anything else out

>> No.840490

>>840404
Toothbrush + isopropyl alcohol

>> No.840521

>>840441
So I just weedle at the two points mentioned, slide out the battery and slide the new one in, and tape it down to keep it in place?

>> No.840589

>>840404
I once used a toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol.

>> No.840608

>>840589
Alright, I'll try that when my new batch of used pins comes in

>> No.840612

>>840392
Just solder in a new battery, its easy to learn and a good skill to have.

>> No.840625

>>840521
That's what I did. You'll probably need to flatten the tabs back out.

>> No.840627

>>840392

http://caggames.weebly.com/how-to-change-gameboy-game-save-batteries.html

This guy has a good explanation of what to do. He also has a good site in general when it comes to repairing shit.

>> No.840703

Not sure if this is related or not since this thread mostly seems to be about repairs, so here goes.

Certain games I've downloaded (mostly Saturn and PS1 games) have come in two files - a bin and some variety of disk image. Usually the bin file is the expected size (several hundred megabytes) while the disk image is quite small (just a few megabytes).

When I burn a disk, which file should I put on the CD?

>> No.840885

>>840703
The .bin should come with a much smaller (1KB or so) .cue file. The .bin is a raw data rip of the CD, and the .cue says where the the tracks start and stop. You should select the .cue, burn at the slowest speed you can, and burn any subchannel data if there is any. It would be a .sub file in the 1-25MB range coupled with a bin/cue.

>> No.840897

>>840627
Excellent guide, but I have one further question- is it supposed to be hard as fuck to pop off the tabs?

>> No.840930

>>840897
New problem.
What do I do if I ripped the top tab clean off?
It looks like it could be put back, but I'm not an expert.

>> No.842439
File: 54 KB, 720x960, famicom.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
842439

Anyone know how to fix a fried famicom?

Do i just replace the fuse, or is there more to it?

My board revision is HVC-CPU-GPM-02.

>> No.842741

>>842439
Usually when a fuse burns out in small electronics, everything behind it ends up being trashed as well. I lost a really nice VCR to a power surge, and replacing the fuse that had blown did nothing. Still, replace the fuse and try with the PROPER adapter this time.

>> No.842808

>>842741
I was using the proper adapter, it was working fine. then the next time i went to use it, it didnt work.

>> No.842849

>>842808
Well, remember that all a fuse is there for is to stop electronics from transforming electricity into a pillar of smoke and fire.

Spot-checking every component in the Famicom for damage is not economically feasible in time or equipment costs, but if you have the ability to grind through it, you can check all of the capacitors, then check all of the diodes to see if they've experienced avalanche breakdown, then the resistors to see if they've cooked up to infinite resistance.

>> No.843002

When I open my sega cd model 2 to change discs, it makes a noise and I think that the gears are rubbing together, i there some way to fix it?

>> No.843034

>>843002

Dialectic Grease.

Perfectly safe for long term use on plastics.

>> No.843035

>>840441

What kind of tape is that?

Shit looks hella sturdy.

>> No.843646

>>843035
Just some generic electrical tape I picked up at a dollar store.

>> No.845859

Bump

>> No.846453

>>834580

Anyone able to help me on this? Playing this thing makes me feel like I'm in one of those old Cyclone ice cream commercials.

>> No.846529

>>846453
Does s-video work? If the chroma signal fucked off, the composite might be B&W. May require signal tracing from the video encoder. As always, disassemble, inspect for damage and worn components, like swelling or leaky capacitors.

I recommend everybody buy a book on digital electronics, or basic electronics. A textbook if possible. You'll shit yourself when you see that this stuff is not magic, then kick yourself for not learning about it sooner.

>> No.846752

I could upload Game Boy Pocket first edition internals, but it wont be a teardown, as it's my only one. Is this alright?

>> No.846952

>>846752
Everything is welcome. Thanks in advance.

That reminds me, I need to gather more stuff for potential teardown/cleaning photos or videos. My problem is, I have a SHITLOAD of stuff that I can do, and a comparatively massive collection, as well as a useless degree in electronic engineering, but I usually feel so shitty that I want to do absolutely nothing when I'm not at work. I have two GBAs that need cleaning, a couple controllers, a Goldstar 3DO needing a new laser installed, and a PSX mod chip to install.

And a Neo Geo controller to build.
And a Neo Geo to USB adapter to design.
And a Genesis needing the CCA mod, and s-video.
And maybe a 32X needing s-video.

Or I could just sit in the dark and do nothing. See my quandary?

>> No.847075
File: 1.32 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_0594.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
847075

1 of 2.

>> No.847084
File: 1.10 MB, 4000x3000, IMG_0591.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
847084

2 of 2.

>> No.848835

>>847075
>>847084
Great pics, thanks. I'll put them up on the wiki when I have access to a decent computer (should be late tomorrow) if no one beats me to it.

I'm at my mom's house where I left a lot of my old consoles, so I'll bring back some of them for pics. The most interesting thing I have is a Sega CDX, and I will definitely take pics of its insides if I can figure out how to open it without breaking it. It's a tight little package.

>> No.850570

Just realized I hate the fuck out of Wikia now. Some of the more basic functions of XML are NOPE in Wikia, so I won't be giving a US Imperial unit of shit about the appearance of any of my edits anymore. I'll brute force articles into existence, and someone else who can be bothered to mop up can prettify everything.

>> No.850629

I just picked up a copy of Super Street Fighter 2 and I get a black screen every time I turn it on. Tried a quick cleaning with a q-tip but still having the issue.
Do I have to rip the game case open to fix this, or is there a better way to clean the game without having to open it up? I don't have the tools to open the game and really don't feel like paying twice the amount I spent on the game to fix it.

>> No.850649

>>850629
Opening the game would be fruitless. There is nothing inside that you can fix that would have anything to do with why the game only works after you clean it.

If you can afford it, get a bottle of Hoppe's 9, or maybe some Brasso. Hoppe's 9 is a gun cleaning solvent that eats plastic but not as nearly as brutally or as dangerous to the user as the GIVES YOU LUNG AND EYE CANCER IMMEDIATELY acetone.

But anyway, a dab of Hoppe's 9 on a cotton swab will SERIOUSLY clean the contacts in game carts. It even smells like bananas. Brasso is an abrasive polishing compound which can be used to wet-sand the contacts and take off any corrosion or crud which won't come off with liquid cleaning.

Incidentally, I found that Hoppe's 9 removes plastic scuff marks. I had a black mark on a Dreamcast that came from a black piece of plastic falling onto it at some point. Couldn't wipe it off with alcohol or soapy water. Hoppe's 9? Gone.

>> No.850675

>>850649
Acetone is very safe by the standards of organic solvents. Acetone is a normal product of human metabolism, it's not carcinogenic at all. There's acetone in your blood right now. I wouldn't drink it or breath it in high concentrations, but the amount needed to clean cartridge contacts is harmless.

>> No.850684

>>850675
I just read the warnings on the bottle.

"Don't get this shit in your eyes. If you do, may as well shoot yourself. Also don't breathe it if you want to be able to breathe anything but lung chunks and blood."

>> No.850718

>>850684
If you get it it your eyes you better wash it out fast, but it's unlikely to permanently blind you. And breathing could be painful, but unless you're deliberately huffing it it's unlikely to do any long term harm. Check the MSDS, it's really not all that dangerous.

>> No.850829

>>850570
That's usually for the best.

My few edits have all been basic in appearance, focusing more so on the content.

>> No.850845

>>850649
I actually had Brasso lying around and used it on both SF2 and a copy of Mario Kart that hasn't been working right, just for comparison.
MK is good as new now and works flawlessly, but SF2 is still giving me a black screen.

Is the game just a lost cause?

>> No.850872

>>850845
I'd put it aside if it were mine, to screw with later. The Wiki is still being updated, though slowly. I'm building up a backlog of projects,myself, so if I have any SOOPER DOORTY games, I'll make a guide.

>> No.851081

I was just following this guide to repair my N64 control stick. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEJmSQjONRg

Can we add that to the wiki?

>> No.851456
File: 194 KB, 640x360, Sega CD After donor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
851456

not sure if this is the right place to post this but i just ripped out a plastic disc from a older cd player/radio that was falling apart and used it to replace the broken and missing top part of the sega cd spindle that helps hold the disc while it spins.

at first glance if you didn't know better it looks stock.

>> No.851469
File: 182 KB, 640x360, 2013-04-11 19-02-46.789.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
851469

>>851456
and here is a picture of the ghetto-fix i did before to make the sega cd work.

>> No.851478
File: 1.89 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
851478

How can I help? I've been told by some that I've got some things I can contribute. A pic of my battle station is attached. That's not all either

>> No.851491
File: 325 KB, 1280x960, Rob more detail.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
851491

guess i could post this old picture i did up sometime last year when i was repairing my rob.

it makes notes of how the gears are supposed to be in a working rob which could be useful as all these are secured with glue that is working on 28 years old now and likely breaking loose.

useful for fixing the common slipping gear issue on rob

>> No.851508

I don't know if it's of any use to the Wiki since there doesn't seem to be a specific section for it but a month ago I recorded audio from seven different models of the Sega Genesis just to give an audio comparison between each specific variant.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-KsaGBUVz4

It's not complete by any means (I don't own a TMSS model 1 or Pioneer Laser Active, for example) but it's the largest comparison of models as far as I can tell, since most videos just seem to compare the non-TMSS model 1 with the full motherboard model 2.

>> No.851604

So what is the Wiki missing as far as pictures and systems?

I take apart sytems and I have parts laying about. Mostly Nintendo stuff

>> No.851638

>>851604
I can do anything from shots to full tear downs and guides if need be

>> No.851647

>>851508

That's pretty neat.

I have a Model 2 VA 2.3, but the difference is so slight that I really can't tell unless I skip back and forth between the different models. The model 2 just sounds a little squishier.

I know I wouldn't be able to tell the different system through my TV's speakers{/spoiler].

>> No.851682

>>851604
>>851638
Everything is welcome. If you like, you can just browse through the uploaded photos to see what's been done already.

>> No.851690

>>851682
I might upload some NES and SNES mother board photos if they're not there

>> No.851702

>>840419
>Is there any type of brush that would get in there and do the same job WITHOUT ripping the pins out

Regular old paintbrush?

>> No.851706

>>851702
maybe

>> No.851962

>>842439
Open it up and check for burned components, start with those. If you're lucky just the voltage regulator got fried and you can replace it with a common 7805. If the voltage regulator has burned out you might have even more problematic components elsewhere though

>> No.851987

>>851962
Oh also replace the electrolytic capacitor located somewhere close by you might have damaged that as well

>> No.853802

>>851491
That's awesome. Do you have any more?

>> No.855382
File: 2.17 MB, 4608x3456, IMAG0006.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
855382

>>851690
Already did one for you Anon.

More to come. Any areas of the board that need specific close-ups?

>> No.855475
File: 2.85 MB, 4608x3456, IMAG0007.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
855475

>>855382

solder side

Captcha: lobaim cemen

>> No.855482

>>855382
theres something wrong with pin 4 on your 3193a chip bro

>> No.855498

>>855482
Not if you clean the 72 pin connector.

>> No.855515

>>855482
>surprised you didn't bring up my desoldered 40H368

>> No.856052

I might as well ask here:

Do you guys leave games in your NES when you're finished playing or do you take them out?

>> No.856120

>>856052
I leave my Everdrive in my NES for safe keeping, but legitimate games GO BACK IN THE BOX. No, not the retail box. Maybe 7% of my NES games are boxed.

>> No.856220

>>856052
I leave my PowerPak in the NES at all times, only taking out the CF card to reflash, or add/update my NSFs.

I have my legitimate games n a shelf, with a custom plastic cap on the edge connectors to protect from dust.

>> No.858785

bump

>> No.858810

>>851478
haha, reminds me how my room looked today before I cleaned it up somewhat. I was working on fixing some sega consoles, and my room was literally covered with various sega stuff from one end to the other.

>> No.859506

So I got a master system that isn't reading left on the D-pad after I soldiered the controller port back in. I was trying to take it out but then some shit happened and yeah

Is there any way to fix this? I'm pretty sure that each pin is soldiered in. It reads everything BUT left on player one

Also, anyone have a good de-soldiering tutorial?

>> No.859508

>>859506
Fuck, I can't spell but anyways

I put some extra solder on pin 3 (left) and it still didn't help

What are those little metal rings around solder points? I think those came off when I was trying to get the pins out

>> No.859529

>>859508
>I put some extra solder on pin 3 (left) and it still didn't help
Oh my god, stop.
>What are those little metal rings around solder points? I think those came off when I was trying to get the pins out
You monster... I'll find you.

>> No.859542
File: 28 KB, 315x462, 1352762384069.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859542

>>859529
Well what ever

I fixed the other master system I got in the bundle deal

And I really need a better solder gun

>> No.859554
File: 39 KB, 560x435, 2_in_1_YIHUA_898BD_SMD_Rework_Station.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859554

>>859506
Get a hot air rework station. Makes desoldering very easy.

>> No.859560

>>859554
How much do those cost?

>> No.859578

>>859560
I paid GBP 80 for mine.

See http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/yihua-898bd-soldering-station-review/

There are many other Chinese ones of similar price and variable quality.

>> No.859598

>>859578
Well shit

Why am I using this old gun

>> No.859618
File: 67 KB, 256x256, ew.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859618

>>859542
>solder gun
>small electronics

>> No.859621

On the topic of soldering, could someone suggest me a good, but cheap iron to buy? I'd like to learn how to repair and mod some of my consoles, but without and iron, I can't even begin to start down that path.

I've seen people suggest the cheap one they have at Radio Shack; How is it?
Any general pointers before go and break everything?

>> No.859625
File: 46 KB, 255x331, 1354670908956.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859625

>>859618
Its all I have right now

>> No.859628

>>859621
One of those Chinese combined hot air/soldering iron stations like >>859554 is a huge step up from a Radio Shack iron. Hot air is very useful, especially if you want to solder surface mount parts.

>> No.859632

>>859628
I'm not wanting to do major modifications just looking to undo components a lot easier from PCB

>> No.859634

>>859628
$120 is considerably higher than I was hoping to spend just starting out.

>> No.859636

>>859508
>What are those little metal rings around solder points?

Those WERE the solder points. Jesus christ put the iron down.

>> No.859638

>>859625
A soldering kit from Radio Shit costs like $7. Comes with an iron, a very cheap stand, clips, and solder. I have a gun, too, but since I'm not a PLUMBER, I don't use it.

>> No.859637
File: 12 KB, 560x407, 1328485188630.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859637

>>859636
Well, like I said

I got the other master system working fine and I didn't loose any money on this one

>> No.859643

>>859634
It's possible to do good soldering with a cheap iron, but it's going to be extremely difficult somebody just starting out. Temperature control makes things a lot easier. If you really can't afford it, get a whole lot of junk parts to practice with, and don't expect to make good joints right away.

>> No.859645

>>859638
I was using a hand me down one. I'm just starting out. Shit son, give me a break.

>> No.859648

>>859621
>>859634
>I'd like to learn how to repair and mod some of my consoles
>$120 is considerably higher than I was hoping to spend just starting out.

That's sort of a catch-22. A shitty $7 ratshack iron would be no problem at all in the hands of someone experienced, which you aren't. While a high quality iron will be more expensive but will have more safeguards and be easier to use, making it less likely that you will ruin the first few things you touch.

>> No.859658

>>859648
>>859643

Basically if you want to use a really cheap iron, stay the fuck away from your consoles until you've practiced with it. A lot.

>>859645

Soldering guns are meant for vehicle brazing and plumbing. They aren't to be used on electronics at all. They're not even ESD safe and will give no fucks about discharging any buildup through your workpiece.

>> No.859661

>>859643
>If you really can't afford it, get a whole lot of junk parts to practice with, and don't expect to make good joints right away.
Well of course not. You can't be come an electronics wizard in week.

Might take apart my broken model2 genesis

>>859648
I'd be fine buying a $30 or $40 dollar iron; $120 is a much larger investment than I'd like to make on something that I might not even be able to do competently enough. That's more than I make in 3 days.

>> No.859663
File: 336 KB, 250x188, 1371605616193.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
859663

>>859658
Alright

>> No.859673

>>859661
>Well of course not. You can't be come an electronics wizard in week.
You'd be surprised. Using Youtube as a guide, I built an AR-15 from the pins up (without losing any parts, no less), rebuilt a smartphone with a shattered screen and broken keyboard, and did a buttload of repairs to my previous car.

The secret to seemingly-psychometric understanding is to observe and slowly follow along. Study repeatedly, practice sparingly. Same advice I give to budding artists. Practice just reinforces what you already know, and practicing bad habits makes improvement ever more difficult.

But I digress. Watch videos of what you want to do, repeatedly, before trying. If nothing else, you'll learn which parts and tools you'll need, so you don't end up with Schrodinger's Console, in a constant quantum state of work/broke.

>> No.859678

>>859661

For $40 you can probably get a Weller WTCP or a clone Hakko 936 (Aoyue and Komec are alright). A Weller WLC100 or real Hakko 936 run $50-60 so you might be able to find one of those used for less.

>> No.859679

>>859673
>Watch videos of what you want to do, repeatedly, before trying.
I planned on it.

Right now, the main thing I want to do is RGB mod my SNESmini, and eventually RGB mod my N64.

>> No.859695

>>859679

The N64 mod is by far the easier of the two since it doesn't require amplification.

>> No.859701

>>859695
I've heard from multiple sources that the complete opposite is true. N64 is dark as fuck and absolutely requires an amp, and the Mini is almost as simple as tapping the signal from the correct pins.

>> No.859707

>>859701

Holy fuck, I meant to type SNES there. Do not amp the SNES signal, you may kill your TV.

>> No.859715

>>859707
I figured as much.

2 questions just came to mind:

I've seen people putting hotglue over the points where they solder their wires as protection; Is it wise/safe to do this, and is it just normal hot glue?
and
The guide that I'm reading for RGB modding the mini specifies that it pulls composite sync for sync, but the cable I've ordered is spec'd for composite video for sync; Will this be a problem assuming my monitor accepts composite video for sync?

>> No.859717

>>859715
Hotglue is by far the easiest strain relief method. It's normal hotglue, and I recommend doing it. Thin mod wire breaks very easily if you wiggle it too much.

>> No.859719

>>859717
Okay, that's good to know.

More on topic with the thread;
I'd love to record myself doing this for the wiki, but I doubt my shitty camera would be able to get a very satisfactory picture.

I'm planning on taking some pictures of the insides of the mini tomorrow, assuming it doesn't storm again. Anything of note I should get close ups of?

>> No.859769

How close can I get a hot air rework station hot air gun to plastic before it melts?

Some parts are near plastic and it seems that would just melt it. Is there a way to pin point the air?

>> No.859779

>>859769
They come with a selection of nozzles, use the thin one. If you're worried, shield the plastic parts with aluminum foil.

>> No.859856

>>859715
>The guide that I'm reading for RGB modding the mini specifies that it pulls composite sync for sync, but the cable I've ordered is spec'd for composite video for sync; Will this be a problem assuming my monitor accepts composite video for sync?

Doesn't matter. The sync doesn't need full wire bandwidth and interference is a non-issue so it makes no difference if a composite signal is riding alongside it.

If you have an NTSC unit you have a usable sync signal on both pins 3 and 9. PAL systems only sync on pin 9. The RGB SCART cables, being meant for PAL systems in the first place, pull sync from pin 9.

Not that it's hard to mod a cable, though. If you really wanted to, you could crack open the AV connector, desolder pin 9 and move it to the pin 3 position, solder the wire back on and glue it back together.

You could also just cannibalize some of those shitty fake "s-video" multi-out cables for connectors and pins if you wanted to roll your own BNC wiring harness.

>> No.859859

>>859715
>I've seen people putting hotglue over the points where they solder their wires as protection; Is it wise/safe to do this, and is it just normal hot glue?

It's ordinary hot glue. You may want to avoid getting it on components in case you need to remove it later.

>>859769

Plastic-shrouded pin connection headers and slots soldered to PCBs are usually made of heat-resistant thermoplastic, but you're better off not risking it. Use a small nozzle and insulate the plastic you want to protect.

>> No.859887

>>859885
What iron did you get?

>> No.859885

Don't cheap out on a soldering iron. I did, and it was a fucking goddamn pain. Spent 50$ on a decent iron and it's so fucking easy to do soldering now.

I might consider a hot air rework station, but I don't need it that often, and I'd need a ROM reader/programmer first.

>> No.859920

>>859887
cheapest Fahrenheit iron with a stand. It was basically an iron rod attached to the power cable. It took 10 minutes or so to heat up, and worst of all the solder & oxidation literally ate the iron head unless I cleaned it every 5 minutes.

The mini station with temp control I have no has none of those issues - heats up in a minute, and the head is as brand new after a year.

>> No.859924

>>859920
The $50 one was the one I was asking about.

>> No.861716

Well, the new optical sensor for my PS3 came in, I installed it, and everything was working great until the game shut off. Now I have the yellow light of death, and I can't find anything written by someone that sounds like they know for sure what's going on and isn't trying to sell me a repair kit. This PS3 is turning into a money pit.

>> No.861735

>>859779
Thanks, that's a good idea

>> No.861740

>>859920
mind linking to the one you got?

>> No.861753

anyone want to recommend a hot air rework station?

>> No.862342

>>861753
I've heard good things about that Atten 858D, supposedly there is a US market model that runs on 110v. You need to do a lot of disassembly and wiring to make it safe, as I hear. Bad / not connected grounds and a fuse on the wrong leg of the power. Probably worth the 80 bux, EEVBlog is about as good of a source as you can get, the guy is great.

>> No.862403

>>862342
I rather not have to put a ton of work into it to make it safe

Got any links to some good ones?

>> No.862531

>>862403
My experience here is a bit limited. At that point I think you are talking Hakko, so probably about 600 bux or so.

>> No.862541

>>862531
Thats a bit on the expensive side

Got any thing around $150?

>> No.863083

>>859924
JLT-02, it's a Chinese rebrand of the Solomon SL-20. Not sure how much quality difference there is between it and the original Solomon, but it's been working perfect for a year, for the occasional soldering.

>> No.865116

I was shopping for parts to build a Neo Geo to USB adapter, but my car fucked off during a rent check period, so that's on hold once again. In too bad of a mood to even do the NES audio mod, so that's on hold too.

>> No.866378

Anyone know of a place to order replacement parts for a Sega Saturn?

I need a battery cover for it

>> No.867124

>>866378
Good luck finding one, I'm missing maybe 5 of those as well.

>> No.867126

>>866378
Someone's selling one for about $25 shipped on eBay.

>> No.869672

Bump from the brink. Still nothing in the requests. I am a knight with no quest.

>> No.869676

>>869672
Any systems you can take apart and photograph?

>> No.869735
File: 780 KB, 3264x1836, FZ-10 mainboard 01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
869735

>>869676
Maybe, but it's a gigantic pain in the ass if I have no reason to do so. I have Friday off, and no plans as of yet, so I'll try to get something done.

All the systems I NEED to take apart need parts to be ordered. Beyond the FZ-10 I photographed, I really have nothing that hasn't been documented to death by dozens of other people.

>> No.872546

Bump from the brink again. I'll see what I can photograph tomorrow, weather and my horrible mood permitting.

>> No.874449

Alright, went to Radio Shit and bought the only 100k Ohm potentiometer they had that couldn't also function as a goddamn bar stool. As my indoor lighting is blacker than the inside of a drive shaft, to quote Jazz, and it's a shitty rainy humid mess outside, any photography must be delayed. Buuuut I could maybe scan some of the limited documentation I have. I dunno. It still feels to me like Wikia is a waste of a space to store significant images, and many companies have a dick up their ass about people posting manual scans for products that they will not reissue.

>> No.877310

PSX mod chip installation in the pipe, along with the NES Famicom audio mod, and the replacement of a Goldstar 3DO laser. Most, if not all of the parts needed have arrived.

>> No.877790

>>850570
Plus, if the key members of a Wikia wiki decide to move to a different host, Wikia will keep the old wiki up under new management instead of closing it.

In other words, good luck trying to leave them.

>> No.878301

Hey guys, sorry I've been absent from the site for a while and haven't been updating it much. I've been very busy the past week or so preparing to go to a professional summer school in Pittsburgh, which I'm flying out to tomorrow. I will be gone from July 7-17, and I'll be staying in a dorm room so who knows what the internet connection will be like. If I find time while I'm there I'll try to contribute more, but it may have to wait until I return.

I actually have a request for anyone out there with a working fat PS3. I need someone to open their working PS3, disconnect the blu-ray drive (just two cables), and try turning on the console. I want to know what happens when you try this, like if you get a YLoD, a blinking red light, or if the system boots with an error message, or whatever.

In the meantime, I've started work on a PS3 YLoD article:
http://retroconsoles.wikia.com/wiki/Yellow_Light_of_Death

>>877310
It would be incredible if you could add info to the wiki about those mods. I'll probably use the PSX mod chip installation info soon when I mod my PSX.

On a side note, does anyone know what wattage/amperage the external power supply for the PSOne uses? I found a PSOne for about $3 without a power cord, but I have a 7.5V / 700mA supply that might work, but I'll have to splice another connector on it.

>>877790
If we move off of Wikia, we'll still maintain control of the wiki and just redirect people to the new site. Someone in an older thread suggested using Wikia as a backup for the articles.

Thank you so much everyone for continuing to help the site! Progress has certainly slowed down recently, but the good news is what's there isn't going anywhere, and we can only add to it.

>> No.878603
File: 264 KB, 1465x519, $(KGrHqZHJEMFG5gpPB!kBRueY4EVfQ~~60_12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
878603

>>878301
>On a side note, does anyone know what wattage/amperage the external power supply for the PSOne uses?
I found two adapters that are OEM and each has a different current rating.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLAYSTATION-ONE-PS1-SLIM-POWER-SUPPLY-AC-ADAPTOR-SCPH-113-SONY-ORIGINAL-/171069778364?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item27d48da9bc


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-OEM-Genuine-Playstation-1-PS1-7-5V-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Charger-SCPH-121-/261240698259?pt=US_Video_Game_Chargers&hash=item3cd328b593

Output:
DC 7.5V 3A, outer negative, inner positive


To be safe you should probably go with 3 amps.

>> No.878750

>>878603
>SCPH-113
>SCPH-121
Maybe trylooking at your psone's SKU.

>> No.878754

>>878750
I'm not OP I have no idea what SKU he has so I just listed both

>> No.878758

>>878754
I noticed right after I posted. Sorry.

>> No.878769

Guys
I have sharpie like hell on a few of my games, and the marker tip on the wiki really isn't helping. I also tried rubbing alcohol.
Help?

>> No.878795

>>878603
I'll try to take a photo of my PSOne adapter when I get home from work in a few hours. I have one in a bag somewhere.

>> No.878815

I have a request for the Wiki, I think it would be great if we can get some label printing info on there.

>> No.878852

>>878769
MR CLEAN MY NIGGA

No but seriously, those white "magic eraser" pads are the shit for console cleaning. They're really lightly abrasive. With a little rubbing alc. they take off marker no problem (and other shit).

Just don't rub too hard or you'll actually scratch shit. This also works for contacts too. Shits mad cheap.

>> No.878861

>>878852
Will try.

>> No.878864

>>878852
Do they work on CDs?

>> No.878867

Gents and /vr/o's,

If I wanted to take mobo pics of the nes -> n64. (and the gameboy too) How, would you like them to be formatted?
Eg on a white backround or cut out on a transparent one.

>> No.878871

>>878864
No idea, I've never tried it. I assume it would work, but test it out on a blank cd to be sure.

>> No.878878

>>878864
They're lightly abrasive like a very fine sand paper so they might scratch them up.

>> No.878904

>>878864
NO

They will NOT work on CDS

Unless you want to make them a coaster that is

>> No.878901

>>878852
I'd use a fine grade steel wool for the contacts.

And magic eraser only takes off marker to a certain degree unless you really rub. It will take the finish off if you do that though

>> No.878907

>>878901
See I'd think this is a bad idea because steel wool would remove the protective coating (nickel I think) on the copper contacts. Less abrasive methods wouldn't.

I mean, it would work, but the contacts would corrode easier.

>> No.878912

>>878907
It doesn't remove it, all it does is polish it. Its called finishing steel wool. It shreds so easily and its meant to polish up metals

>> No.879289

>>878795 here

My AC adaptor for the PSone is model SCPH-113, 7.5V, 2.0A, positive tip, negative barrel.

I guess pics weren't necessary.

>> No.880085

Hi.
My other NES powers up, but the red light just flashes even when game is in.
I opened it and blew out all the dust, but that didn't work.
Do any of you know what might be the problem and how to fix it?

>> No.880150

>>880085
Cartridge isn't aligned properly, edge connector on the cartridge is dirty, or the pin connector in the console is dirty. You can get rid of the resetting by disabling the 10NES chip but if the game still isn't right the game wont play all the way through

>> No.880154

>>880085
Clean the edge connectors in the carts with alcohol on cotton swabs, try again.

If you have side cutters, you can disable the 10NES chip to stop the flashing forever.

>> No.880175
File: 108 KB, 1616x534, Sticky.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
880175

>> No.880357

Is there room for atari flashback consoles? I have some power supply information.

Flashback 1 power supply is:
9V DC, 300mA, center positive

Power supply for flashback 2 is:
9V DC, 200mA, center positive

Flashback 1 power supply will work on Flashback 2, however a Flashback 1 power supply might not work for Flashback 2

>> No.880376

>>880357
>Flashback 1 power supply might not work for Flashback 2
oops Flashback 2 might not work for Flashback 1

>> No.880475

>>880150
>>880154
I should have said earlier, problem isn't in game or cables, because both works on my other NES.
How should i clean NES pins thought?

>> No.880519

>>880475
Boil the 72 pin connector. Hold it in the boiling water with tongs, though. Don't let it touch the insides of the pot.

Alternately, swap connectors with your working NES to see if the problem follows. Standard troubleshooting. Replace suspected bad with known good.

>> No.883358

>>878301
I'll definitely record everything for the wiki. Hard part is having the drive to actually get to work on anything.With unemployment in my state approaching 30%, I don't DARE try to change jobs now.

>> No.883391

http://emulation-general.wikia.com/wiki/Emulation_General_Wiki

Have you guys seen this?

>> No.883706

>>880175
It was a nice start to the day to see that.

>>880357
Flashcacks and other clone consoles are welcome.

Thanks for the PSOne info guys, but does anyone know the power needs of the SCPH-101?

>> No.884229

>>883706
>>does anyone know the power needs of the SCPH-101?

>DC 7.5V 2A, outer negative, inner positive
Should be the correct configuration.

>>878603 here again
From what I've gathered I the 3A power supplies came with those little TV screens that attach to the PSone. You should be able to use either without trouble.

>> No.884536

>>884229
Thanks! Unfortunately my 7.5V supply only outputs up to 700mA, so it looks like I'll have to wait until I run across an official supply to test the PSOne.

>> No.886125

So has anyone had any success with modding the FM chip back into an American Sega Master system?

I know there's a guy that sells the FM chips on a separate board that you plug into the expansion port in the back.

The reason I ask is my friend wanted me to install it, and I did, but it didn't seem to work

>> No.886494
File: 367 KB, 3033x1707, Sega Master System top front angle.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
886494

>>886125
You still need a game capable of utilizing it. Gamesack was talking about Phantasy Star using FM sound, and I think the US version of Rampage can do FM music in a properly-equipped SMS...

When I have buckets of ducats, I'll try out the FM mod board for the SMS, since I have a model 1 in all its sexy angular glory.

>> No.886510

>>886494
I know. There's a few games that use it.

It seemed to work but most of the time it gave a software error. It wouldn't even boot Shinobi. The only game I got to work with it slightly with FM sound is Double Dragon and that would glitch out most of the time.

You replace C37 there with two leads to the card that plugs into the expansion bay. There's a third shielding that you have to attach to the RF unit

>> No.886513
File: 156 KB, 800x659, download.php.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
886513

>>886510
Here's a picture of his master system mother board

>> No.886539

>>886513
That goddamn video encoder....

>> No.886549

>>886539
What?

>> No.886672

>>886549
Oh, just a bad experience with some shithead's awful schematics leading me to waste hours etching a board for an s-video mod that didn't work.

>> No.886702

>>886672
ah I see

do you have any input to the FM mod chip?

>> No.886713

>>886702
Nope. More than I really want to invest at the moment, and I don't bother doing research on projects I have no immediate interest in. I just bookmarked stuff about it, and there it shall lie, on the periphery of my mind.

>> No.886725

>>886713
Alright then

>> No.886779

>>886725
If I bother modifying my SMS, I'll document everything. At the moment, I'm just gathering components and plans for some random day I have off, and am in a manic mood. Basically like rolling two twenties on 2D20.

>> No.886783

>>886779
Alright

Sounds good

And the board is in all in one, 3 wire solution that you just attach the expansion port in the back and replace a capacitor in the unit its self

>> No.887070

This might be the place for this question but can regular PS1 games be resurfaced?

>> No.887417

>>887070
I don't see why not.

>> No.888408

>>887070
Sure. It's the reason why my Tron Bonne is playable.

Alas, some of my Saturn and other PSX games are fucking ruined because the asshole previous owners pitted the discs, or scratched the label surface, destroying the data layer.

>> No.889176

>>888408
Tron Bonne?

Never heard of it

>>887417
Thanks, I'll look into it

>> No.891967

bump from the edge of oblivion

>> No.892862

>>891967
Thanks for that. Still gathering crap for projects... but that's a problem. I spend all my time preparing, and very little actually finishing.

>> No.894620
File: 66 KB, 250x244, snes.av.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
894620

>>834580
> pic related
is it the original rca adapter? or one of the cheap Chinese ones?

>> No.894797

>>834580
if you can open the SNES check the solder joints there might be loose pins that need to be resoldered