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/vr/ - Retro Games


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8083719 No.8083719 [Reply] [Original]

Noticed that /vr/ doesn't have a QTDDTOT or general help thread. Kind of unusual given the likelihood of people using homebrew and unlicensed hardware, so let's have a thread where we post /vr/ related problems. Help if you can.
I'll start:
>playing Pier Solar on my Genesis using an Everdrive X7
>save feature worked totally fine up until I hit the 2 hour mark (coincidence? unsure)
>now game won't hold a save file if it's been reloaded, including hitting reset on the console
>lost hours to this already and really wanna play

>> No.8083829

>>8083719
Can't fucking get Super Mario RPG on wii to output via SCART. Tried NTSC and PAL versions in pal60 WHAT THE FUCK!

>> No.8083843

>>8083719
Works on my emulator.

>> No.8083848

>>8083719
With homebrew shit youd probably have much more success on their forums than you would here

>> No.8083919

>>8083848
True, but I also wanted to start a general for other anons to post their obscure questions.
>>8083843
I'm sure it does, but there's some sort of issue with it on the Everdrive. I just reset the battery and my save is gone completely... that shouldn't happen, as saves are written to the SD card normally.
>>8083829
What TV are you using? Is this only a problem for SMRPG, or 240p games in general? If you're using SCART, the problem could always be the switching circuit in the cable or TV since it uses a 5v signal to tell the TV to switch to it as an input

>> No.8085110
File: 14 KB, 865x512, 1453061499013.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8085110

Troubleshoot this BUMP, bitch.

>> No.8085176

>>8083829
Hook up a nunchuk and press a+2+z on startup it will force 240p

>> No.8085298

>>8083719
whats that multisync model?

>> No.8085308
File: 2.34 MB, 3120x2480, nice.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8085308

>>8083719
>32x doesnt work
>open it up, clean it properly
>take out ribbon cables and cleanthem
>seat them in tight
>put it together
>get the sega 'Produced by or under license from Sega Enterprises Ltd" screen when playing Genesis or 32x games
> black screen after that
What the fuck do I do to tfixthsi

>> No.8085464

>>8085110
Thanks, fren
>>8085176
Good call, this might be what anon needed.
>>8085298
FE950+. Beautiful image; I usually run it at 960p @ 90hz, but it does up to 1370p @ 65 or something. It's pretty decent for 480p content like Dreamcast or Tsukihime (in pic), but I kind of wish I could see another monitor with lower resolution playing them without scanlines
>>8085308
You have all the cables for it, right, anon? If so, it sounds like something inside is loose or broken still.

>> No.8085496

>>8085464
>>8085308
Oh duh, I misread your original post. You should do a recap on it, anon--and if that's not an option, send it to me. I'll either fix it or buy it.

>> No.8085516

>>8085464
>>8085496
The caps? That produced screen means it can understand that an unpirated cartridge is inserted, but it just can't play it for some reason right?
I'm pretty frustrated. wanted to get some space harrier

>> No.8085557

>>8085516
I think a recap is due. Check the board for any leaking caps, and also look for cold or broken solder joints.

>> No.8085562

>>8085557
why are the caps on sega stuff so bad? ive seen older nintendos and ataris still going but i had to redo all the caps on a game gear and maybe this 32x

>> No.8085573

>>8085562
Honestly, I've only seen completely failed caps on Nintendo consoles, but Sega ones seem to degrade just enough to cause weird shit to happen. Don't forget that all these caps are 30 years old now with a projected life of maybe 10 years max when they were designed.

>> No.8085765

I couldnt find anything on google so might as well post, im playing half life on this shitty laptop and whenever i go underwater the game just glitched out and everything looks like a white polygonal fuckery, i mean it still runs fine but it's borderline unplayable due to low or next to no visibility

>> No.8086808
File: 24 KB, 281x281, 27B6F51A-6647-4174-AED8-F5F56A5A7AB5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8086808

OP from >>8083474 here.
I tried replacing the roms with ones from another site and still having the same issue. Games play fine, just no sound. Could some of the capacitor caps be bad? Maybe even the sound chip?
I did get this thing dirt cheap and had to replace a loose cap. I'm out of ideas at this point, but again, might just have to deal with it.

>> No.8086871

>>8083829
Ok it does run fine when not forcing pal60, B U T it has a red tint. ergh SCART is not the way to go on a NTSC wii.

>> No.8087925
File: 19 KB, 500x500, nintendo.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8087925

My nintendo 64 expansion pak does not fucking work
Its not the console
and ive already cleaned the damn thing thoroughly

>> No.8088552

>>8087925
can i turn the expansion pak intoa regula rjumper pak somehow
i just want to get it to boot and be useful

>> No.8088718

So, general tip for anybody struggling with anything CD-related:
You want to burn towards the top of your CD or DVD media's rated burn speeds.
>But everybody said to burn slow-
No. CDs and DVDs are designed to work at specific speeds. Your media might be readable, but the pickier optical drives of older consoles, particularly the PS1 and Saturn, won't have as much leeway. You may have situations where specific combinations of media, drive and burner lead to different outcomes but by and large, you'll have a better time the closer you are to the top of your capacity. Strike the old boomer wisdom from your mind. It makes sense in the context of pressing vinyl or transferring tape, but not with digital media.
Source: ended months of PS1 optical issues by burning my CDs at 40x rather than 16x, now working near flawlessly. Literally the only change.

>> No.8088912

OP here, back from work now.
>>8085765
Your laptop uses an integrated GPU that can't display the particular effects they're using underwater. If it has a dedicated GPU, make sure it's able to switch to it when you're gaming.
>>8086808
A few things to look for:
Do you get audio from the headphone jack when this happens?
Are there games where the sound does work? My thought is that maybe one of the various sound chips is malfunctioning, making certain games have no sound at all. In any case, I would recap it (kits are cheap, like a few bucks on console5) and even before that, check that the sound chips haven't come desoldered from the board. Bad caps can definitely cause audio issues, but for it to be game specific... well, all three of those games are fairly processor intensive, so I would look into replacing the voltage regulators if you do a recap since it's easy and cheap. Keep us posted; post a pic of your motherboard here!
>>8087925
>>8088552
Is this affecting all games? I would try to find one online, they sometimes even pop up on amazon with prime shipping
>>8088718
I think you just have a faulty drive, anon. PS1 and Saturn only read at 2x or 4x, so "designed to work at specific speeds" and "burn near the top of your rated burn speed" don't really make sense. Most people have had the opposite experience of yours. For example, I couldn't get PS2 discs to be read without glitches or errors until I burned them at 1x. It's a simple fact that errors are more prone to happening at a higher write speed, and older, sensitive CD drives like you might find in a car will simply not work when burned above 8x; they just don't have the buffer and error correction to deal with it. My guess: your CD burner runs hot and doing a faster burn provides a cleaner set of pits and lands compared to running it slow and burning the pits too deep or warping the data stream or something. What disc brand are you using?

>> No.8088920

>>8088912
>I think you just have a faulty drive, anon. PS1 and Saturn only read at 2x or 4x, so "designed to work at specific speeds" and "burn near the top of your rated burn speed" don't really make sense
Burn speed =/= read speed, anon. The dyes used in CDs aren't one-size-fits-all and there's a reason that their metadata contains additional information about the recommended burn speeds. I'm not saying a disc telling you to burn it at 40x means you need to read it at 40x, either.
To be clear, I'm not saying that you should always try to push 48X or whatever. Just that you'll get better results working within the recommended range of your media most of the time. For instance the main CD media I'm using at the moment is the same CMC garbage everybody's rebadging these days and it's working vastly better in my PS1 at 40x burns than 16x burns. I've tried this with multiple drives, it's not a question of that.
Most advice about CDs and their burns is absolutely ancient and generally made with regard to an industry when better quality discs were much more readily available, and also generally using compositions designed for those lower burn speeds.

>> No.8088921

>>8088912
>all games
Yes its as if the n64 had no jumer pak inserted at all
>buy one
they are insanely priced right now, fuck that

>> No.8088951

>>8088920
>Burn speed =/= read speed, anon.
That's what I was implying. Your assertion seemed to suggest that's what you thought.
Anyway, I probably don't have enough anecdotal evidence of my own for you, but the general consensus is that burning slower usually provides a better burn, all else equal; maybe the consensus should instead be "CD burners are made with tolerances such that they may operate better at higher or lower relative burn speeds from drive to drive." I also don't know how you're burning discs outside the recommended range; many burners lock you out of doing that. My laptop, for example, can't go any slower than 10x... maybe because of heat soak reasons?

>> No.8088956

>>8088921
I wish I could send you one, but I was done with my N64 a long time ago. What about finding a broken/"for parts" console and harvesting it? Check craigslist or something. I wish I could help you diagnose it, but I really can't. I know it's not possible to make the expansion pak work like a jumper pak as it's not as simple as the jumper pak completing a circuit. IIRC, it contains the region data.

>> No.8088962

>>8088956
what? the jumper pak does more than just complete the thing?

>> No.8088965

>>8088962
Wait, I was wrong. Let me look a bit further.

>> No.8088967

>>8083719
>using homebrew and unlicensed hardware

You get what you pay for.

>> No.8088972

>>8088951
That's kind of my point though, the general consensus is one that was formed before the current state of play for media and burners. Even if you wanted to burn a CD for your PS1 at 1X, your media's dye combination isn't designed for it and odds are your burner straight-up can't do it. And yes, with high quality media, slower is sometimes better but that's stock that simply isn't being made anymore anyway. A lot of it is also holdover audiophile wisdom from people that insist they can hear the difference in the data stored on a gold-backed CD burnt at 1x versus a silver-backed at 16x or whatever the fuck. I'm not saying it's all that level of cargo culting but there's certainly an element that's dripped into 'common wisdom' over the years on the subject.
> I also don't know how you're burning discs outside the recommended range; many burners lock you out of doing that. My laptop, for example, can't go any slower than 10x
Not quite, you're conflating two things. Your optical drive has a hard minimum and maximum it can burn at, but your actual CD or DVD will contain information on the disc in its metadata giving the recommended burn speeds for its composition. Your drive will happily ignore the latter if you ask it to, which is often what people do by following 'burn at the lowest speeds' wisdom. They end up burning at their drive's lowest, which is often lower than what the media is designed to take. To go back to an example of my own, my primary drive's lowest is 16x, while the lowest listed by this chinkshit media is actually 24x. Going with 'the lowest possible' will end up with you burning at 16x since the firmware doesn't generally care about the disc's recommendation if you manually tell it otherwise.

>> No.8088973

>>8088956
>Done with the n64
Hell yeah, thing's a piece of junk.

>> No.8088976

>>8088962
OK, so it basically routes some of the pins to some basic electronic components to terminate the RAM slot. It seems like it wouldn't be worth your time to open the N64 and hard wire everything. The expansion pak can't be modified to do this because it contains actual RAM and none of the necessary circuitry. I think your best bet is to open the expansion pak up and see if anything is obviously loose. Post pics here and we will try to help

>> No.8088981

>>8088976
>hard wire everything
would it be that hard to do?
>the expansion pak having more ram negates the need to complete the circuit so it doesnt share that circuity with the jumper pak
weird

I really can't seeanything wrong with it, nothing is loose.

>> No.8088982

>>8088972
>A lot of it is also holdover audiophile wisdom from people that insist they can hear the difference in the data stored on a gold-backed CD burnt at 1x versus a silver-backed at 16x or whatever the fuck.
Those people definitely don't understand what a digital data stream is, lmao.
>Not quite, you're conflating two things...
Ah, I read your post wrong. I thought you were talking about the burner's recommended speeds, not the disc's. I absolutely agree that you shouldn't burn a disc slower than its rated range, assuming you can actually find it on the package somewhere.

>> No.8088987
File: 503 KB, 1500x2668, hear.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8088987

>>8088976
Damn it

>> No.8088990

>>8088981
>would it be that hard to do?
How good are you with a soldering iron, and do you have an electronics store nearby or amazon prime? It looks like it wouldn't be that hard, but it would definitely not be a good foray into board work
>weird
Think of it as the jumper pak using static electronic components to mimic the presence of the RAM. It's not quite that, but that should help you visualize it a bit better.

>> No.8088991
File: 44 KB, 697x501, imgburn.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8088991

>>8088982
If you're just using imgburn like most people these days it'll tell you in the panel on the right, as well as some more detailed speed information if you scroll down. It's pulled from manufacturer data on the disc.

>> No.8088992

>>8088987
Maybe it would be possible to cut some traces and modify it... but it could be a tight squeeze.

>> No.8088993

>>8088990
>how good am I
I don't know. I've repaired some super nintendo and sega fuses. modified a playstation 1. im not completely hopeless

>> No.8088998

>>8088993
Tell me if you have an idea of what to do after reading this short thread: http://modretro.com/xen/index.php?threads/reverse-engineering-the-jumper-pak.628/

>> No.8089020
File: 134 KB, 899x678, supply.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8089020

>>8088998
Doesnt seem soo bad just time consuming.
He documents it all the pins so its basically just following directions at that point
Only concern is that from what others there have said it seems the wires need to be very short.
also im not sure how to get the parts id need to do that without butchering an actual jumper pack
and this risks destroying the whole console right

>> No.8089028

>>8089020
No, this would basically entail you ripping the RAM chip off, cutting the traces to it, and placing caps and resistors in the correct places. You won't be needing to touch the console if you do it this way, and the wire length sensitivity should only matter on the actual N64 board, not the jumper pak

>> No.8089032

>>8089028
Oh you were talking about apply this to modifying the expansion pak.
I guess its worth a shot right? It really does seem like I just have dead RAM or something. I'm not sure how to test for that

>> No.8089038

>>8089032
I think the fact your console won't boot is proof enough. You said you're sure it's not the console that's at fault, after all. I think you should give it a try!

>> No.8089042

>>8088967
Works perfectly fine with every other game. I think the firmware isn't saving the game properly due to the file size of the ROM. My save file was wiped after resetting the battery inside the Everdrive and this is NOT supposed to happen. Sorry for the late reply.

>> No.8089049

>>8089032
Alright, I gotta go to bed. Keep us posted with your jumper pak status!

>> No.8091263
File: 897 KB, 2100x1575, 1D0F723E-ABA0-40D2-A121-D0EAC26B33CB.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8091263

>>8088912
>Do you get audio from the headphone jack when this happens?
Nope, nothin'.
I forgot to mention the other game without audio is Adventures of Batman & Robin.

>Are there games where the sound does work?
There's several: Sonics 1, 2 and 3, Golden Axes 1 and 2, Rinstar, Gunstar Heroes, Beyond Oasis and Alien Soldier.
Here's the pic of the motherboard too. The one thing that looks suspicious is the cap circled in red. It's not extremely bloated, but isn't that an indicator that it might go bad later?

>> No.8091278

>>8083719
What the shit alex kidd game is on the left? It looks so fucking modern!?!??!

>> No.8091282

>>8091263
The bloated caps means it's bad now. The current is not always being reduced correctly and just causes the next unit in the chain to dumb the charge. Replace it, also just replace the a/v jack entirely. It's always a good idea as they don't cost and take a brunt of power and people jamming stuff in there and ripping it out.

>but I tested this cap and it still has continuity
don't care

>> No.8091563
File: 500 KB, 500x381, 1418239559884.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8091563

>>8091282
Fuck saaaaaaaaaaake this shit's driving me off the wall.
I can't be arsed to get a soldering machine and parts right now after getting help soldering a blown up cap previously and just going to wait until the thing either breaks or when I decide to sell it.
At least it's good to know that Console5 site exists. Thanks for all the advice.

>> No.8091893

OP here, back from work again.
>>8091263
Bro, that cap is trashed. Once it's swelled up, it's beyond bad. Plus, that one is part of the audio circuit. I would definitely replace it ASAP. Looks like you have a VA6 genesis-- that cap is 220uf, 16v. It should be bigger than the ones around it, but yours is clearly swollen. Replace it and get back to us!
>>8091278
That's Pier Solar for the Genesis. It came out in 2010. I wanna play it so badly right now but I can't save and still haven't figured out why.
>>8091563
Shit dude, sorry to hear that. I might have a spare soldering iron and cap that I could mail to you. I want you to be able to play those games. I just made a throwaway: shoot me an email at genesiscaps@outlook.com if you're interested (can't remember if I threw the soldering iron away but I'll check if you want)

>> No.8093069

Bampity boooo

>> No.8094817

I got a Wario Land 3 cart that starts playing but if I try to enter the first level it just freezes on a white screen each time. Is there any chance of that being some weird issue with the PCB like a chip has a lifted pin or something or is the rom on the cart just fucked or something?

>> No.8094892

>>8083719
Does anyone have any schematic diagrams of a GCN Wavebird controller? Mine’s not communicating with the receiver and I need to troubleshoot it.

>> No.8095394

OP here, back again. I'll be here tomorrow night for a long time if anyone has any questions.
>>8094892
Have you tried seeing if the channels are just mismatched? Aside from that... I can't imagine what it could be aside from weak batteries, but I'll look for a diagram for you.
>>8094817
Sounds like it's been damaged. I'd open it up and check for anything loose. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol and inspect it. Post pics if there's anything dubious!

>> No.8095912

How do I fix an n64 analog stick for cheap? The bowl has ground to dust

>> No.8096273

how do I convert my console with an internal power supply to use an external instead

>> No.8096303
File: 1.06 MB, 1218x727, 1627344201138.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8096303

>>8088912
Thanks a lot

>> No.8096534
File: 13 KB, 424x415, I recognize some of the words.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
8096534

Like seriously, what does this mean?

>> No.8096930

>>8096273
Why?

>> No.8098668

OP back again
>>8095912
You can order replacements for a couple bucks on ebay or aliexpress or console5, maybe even amazon. They're plug and play.
>>8096303
No problem, anon
>>8096534
Never studied latin? (I have no idea, sorry)
>>8096273
Why? Are you case modding something?

>> No.8098671

>>8098668
I cant afford a full n64analog replacement, is there a way to ghetto rig something

>> No.8098685

>>8098671
You can get them on aliexpress for 4 dollars shipped. As for ghetto rigging, I may be angle to come up with something. Can you post a pic of yours? I wanna see exactly which parts are worn

>> No.8098692

>>8098685
you're trying to rip me off arent you? i cant trust you

>> No.8098702

>>8098692
If you don't want to post a picture, then that's fine. I can't really help you unless I know what part is worn, though.

>> No.8098706

>>8098702
the stick is loose and sloppy dude. its probably the bowl. im not posting a pic youre gonna steal my financials if you arent a scammer please help me play mario 64 again

>> No.8098716

>>8098706
Well if you're sure it's the bowl and not the ball joint itself, I would take it apart and epoxy the space that's been worn out, then file or dremel it out to the right fit again.

>> No.8098719

>>8098716
all i got is gorilla glue epoxy
so i should fill up the entire ball with epoxy as much as i can ?
i already have to solder my mario 64 cart into the nintendo man this is work

>> No.8098726

>>8098719
Actually, before you commit to that, I would try this first: https://www.instructables.com/Easy-Way-to-Fix-a-Loose-Joystick-on-a-N64-Controll/
You basically wrap tape around the part that connects to the potentiometers. If that doesn't get rid of the slop, then I would target the bowl. Gorilla glue epoxy would work but you need to let that shit cure for at least a day for it to be machinable. Even then, it's not ideal.

>> No.8098795

>>8096930
>>8098668
Im scared of the internal power supply dying or caps leaking and killing my console and want it to be more flexible in the future

>> No.8100165

Why don't you clowns emulate

>> No.8100218

>>8100165
why don't you? it could fill your time instead of shitposting pointless questions

>> No.8100523

>>8098795
That won't really happen. Depending on how the power supply is handled, making it external might be a huge bitch.
>>8100165
Emulating is soulless unless it's on another retro console. For example, I emulate SNES games on my Dreamcast