/vr/ - Retro Games

2/3

3/3

That will not be the buttons layout, I placed them kinda randomly

You're going to catch a lot of shit just for not building it specifically for CRTs even though your VGA output will be capable. People are going to shout at you trying to teach you about 15khz RGB output until it'll probably make you NOT want to do it and ditto for the input panel.

If you want my advice before all that happens, hide an HTPC inside an XArcade tankstick, mount that to a cheap dolly from Harbor Freight, dress it up to your liking and run like hell before the self-appointed "purists" get a hold of you. Come back if and when you get it built to talk about configuring outputs and maybe front ends - though Launchbox is by far the easiest way to make it look slick

>>5059037
There is already a "dual joysticks bolted to an emulation system" product on amazon (etc)
Why not just mount that to a base and save time and money

>>5059057
>>5059078

I have already and old cpu smoothly running lakka and the joysticks, so it will be a minimum investment. Buying a pre built system will be more expensive.

I really don't care about purist and the obsession with crt image.

1. Which games are you planning to install?

2. What kind of artwork will you put on it?

3. Are you just gonna plaster anime girls all over it?

Looks neat as, just make sure to have some kind of trussed support for the over hang on the sides, you know, for that one guy that leans in to much.

>>5059118
>Mostly snes, mame and n64 roms

>Im thinking on those mash up wallpapers with a lot of classic video game characters. Also I'm thinking in a black and red edges design.

>Rachnera best girl

>>5059037
(1/3)
Thick diamond plate(or any plate really) that would be heavy enough to prevent tipping would be expensive and hard to work. Like hundreds of doll hairs and and a plasma cutter. You could always make braces out of mild steel and put thin diamond plate on top but that would require cutting and welding done by a somewhat competent fab guy. Not cheap. You could always make a wooden platform then stick thin diamond plate on top if you want. For cabinet construction you could use 3/4" plywood reinforced in the corners by 2x2s glued and screwed with horizontal and diagonal bracing would be more solid. Do what they do with non permanent basketball hoops, get a heavy duty platic container or whatever and fill it with sand if you're worried about tipping. If you're afraid of the sand spilling during transport mix up some concrete in the container. Make sure you secure whatever vessel you use to contain whatever you use for weight. Build the top bottom pieces separately and then attach them together. A lot of cabinets are made with mdf but I wouldn't trust that for something heavy and portable. Ideally, if it'll be moved A LOT steel would be better but it would take a lot of money. It would also need to be welded or at the bare minimum riveted. Bolts or studs wouldn't be ideal unless you used some type of thread locker, but even with that they(as well as rivets) have the ability to shear off.

>>5059037
>>5059816
(2/3)
I don't know, I was a cabinet maker for a while and I've been doing fab work for years and the things that are throwing me through a loop are the need for weight and for it to be portable. I get that you want the weight to reduce the chance of tipping, but why not build the middle piece/upright more like a pyramid as well as increasing the size of the base? It would be harder to contruct because of the compound angles though. You can also decrease the width of that control panel. Aesthetically that cad design is done pretty well, so if you want to stick to it then I would definetly look at adding dead weight other than a thick steel plate. One thing about the plate is that it's small. You have 2 control sections but the plate would only accommodate someone standing in the middle where they couldn'tcomfortablly use either set. Even aside from better weight distribution it would make more sense to widen the base for that reason.

If you plan on using wood or mdf for the rest of the cab I wouldn't want to use steel as a base because wood flexes a lot more(obviously) and moving it around you will make the wood flex. It's a point of failure, the base may not move but the rest of it will definitely want to. There's no good way to join metal to wood other than fasteners that will put strain on small areas(even if force is being adequately) and the wood will eventually tear.

>>5059037
>>5059821
(3/3)
I'm not sure if you mean portable as being able to move from one room to the other or that you'll be throwing it into a truck and taking it to a bar every other night. If so look at 8x10 bass cabinets you might get some ideas for wooden contstruction. Those are heavy as hell and don't tip over easily and definitely don't just fall apart. As far as being able to drag it around I would look this system that involves casters you can raise and lower with a foot pedal. Pic related kind of, same idea. Press the pedal and the cab will raise up allowing it to roll, press it again and it'll lower so it can't roll. If you're concerned about stability this will be better than something that you can always move.

Also,
>>>/diy/
Make sure you tell them what tools/skills/experience you have in the op. They'll shit on you, but if you're humble you can get some good info and ideas.

>>5059037