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/vr/ - Retro Games


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4806619 No.4806619 [Reply] [Original]

Haven't seen one of those threads in a while.

Post your questions and what not.
Here's the wiki, but it seems it hasn't been updated in a while.
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

>> No.4806639

>>4806619
I have a dead HDMI port on a wega tv. How can I diagnose and fix it?

>> No.4806661

>>4806619
Anybody know a good place to get cheap sega cd replacement lasers? Or if i can gut a cd player for a laser?

>> No.4806694

>>4806619
I'm about to recap my PC Engine Duo. I was planning to order the through-hole cap kit since I only have a basic pencil iron, but now I'm thinking the SMD kit might actually be easier to deal with. Any thoughts from those who have done it before?

>> No.4806717

How do I change the horizontal position for a Sony pvm? My picture is too far to the left and I don't see a setting in the service menu.

>> No.4806719
File: 13 KB, 225x225, images-24.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4806719

>>4806619
I would really like to start learning how to do my own maintenance & repairs on my old consoles / games. What items do you recommend I put together for a basic toolkit?

>> No.4806732

>>4806719
>What items do you recommend I put together for a basic toolkit?
All sizes of gamebit. Precision screwdriver kit. Engineering solder sucker. Solder wick. Old electronics to practice on, even an old dead vr. Soldering iron or if you can afford it a soldering station. Multimeter, capacitance tester. Basic problem solving and knowledge of google. Good flush cutters. Dental picks. Tweezers. 91% isopropyl alcohol. Q tips. This will fix 99% of problems.

>> No.4806739

>>4806732
Should read even an old vcr. Seriously even a can opener will let you practice resoldwring and soldering. Also the most overlooked item for soldering is flux. Watch eevblog soldering series on YouTube and some voultar videos.

>> No.4806742
File: 9 KB, 223x227, 2018-05-13-12-23-11--1640293413.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4806742

>>4806732
Thank you are the soldering irons and diagnostic tools very expensive? I am committed to learning this but it might take me some months to save up & shop around if they're pricey

>> No.4806906
File: 65 KB, 600x800, 1525971815086.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4806906

>>4806742
Thanks anon, now I'm tripping 80s-schoolboy balls

>> No.4806925

>>4806742
No, it's all cheap. You can get a small screwdriver set for a couple dollars, a basic 15W soldering iron for $15, a few bucks for solder, flux, and wick, a $10 multimeter, etc. If you want to get fancy with high-end Hakko desoldering stations and hot air guns and whatnot you can spend hundreds, but that's not at all necessary for most people and most jobs.

>> No.4806950
File: 12 KB, 193x261, 2018-05-13-14-00-33--1506922449.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4806950

>>4806925
Excellent. I will look into everything you said. It'll be awhile before I'm any good but I think it'll be really satisfying to get old electronics working properly again.

>> No.4806975

>>4806742
As >>4806925 said, it's all relatively cheap. The most expensive thing I have is the 878D solder station. It's overkill but is a very good machine for the money. Has digital temp settings and both a soldering iron and a hot air gun. The other "high dollar" item I have is the "engineering solder sucker". It's like $30. You can get solder suckers for $5-15 on ebay but I'd never give up my engineering sucker. In my experience, it has more sucking power, and having a silicon tip you can literally touch your iron on it without damage. This means you can get closer than the regular blue plunger types, or at least I can.

Honestly though, a regular soldering iron can do most anything you would need to do, and would be a good purchase as it's always a backup in case something happens to your solder station. The tools and materials are cheap, but remember, practice a lot on old junk before touching retro consoles. Doing simple mods like atari 2600 av out can be a nice first step once you decide to touch the iron to old consoles.

Watching "pros" solder is very useful as it lets you emulate their techniques. Watch some of voultar's videos, honestly he's one of the better productions that relate to video games. He often gives little tips in the videos that can apply to other consoles. Basically, take your time, think logically how you can do the mod in a clean manner.

>> No.4807041
File: 9 KB, 188x268, images-22.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4807041

>>4806975
What kinds of old junk do think is best to tinker with for practice? Like you find say an old busted clock radio and try to get it running again by testing for broken connections and components that need to be replaced?

>> No.4807042

I tried using 12 percent hydrogen peroxide on a sun bleached toploader but it didn't really work, any other suggestions ?

>> No.4807046
File: 2.53 MB, 2880x2160, 20180528_125827.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4807046

I seem to be having this problem with Playstation games over my CRT where the image is out of alignment (see pic). PS2 games that I run over it seem to be too big for the screen, with the bottom and top part being cut off, but the left and right alignment seem to be fine. Any ideas where i should look to see what the problem is?

>> No.4807274
File: 2.76 MB, 2528x2248, 1527276978964.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4807274

Here's my PVM-1354Q.

When powered on, the screen doesn't turn on and nothing happens, other than the orange tally light above. Neither the screen nor the speaker do anything when I have something plugged in, and none of the buttons/knobs have any effect.
As someone who knows nothing about CRT's, would it be easy to fix whatever the issue could be, or would it be less effort to just throw it out and buy a new one? Keep in mind I know next to nothing about monitors and am far from a DIY repairman.

For context, I received the monitor like this. When powered on I can hear the tube powering on, and When turned off I can hear a faint crackling fading away, but were it not for that and the tally light, I wouldn't even be able to tell that it was powered on at all.

>> No.4807304

>>4806694
SMD seems to scare a lot of people but it's really nothing complicated unless you have advance stage parkinsons.

>>4806719
All the tools required to open the things you'll be working on and all the tools you found you needed while learning how to into electronics.

>> No.4808518
File: 700 KB, 2099x1237, IMG_20180526_215311~01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4808518

I have the RGB-02 revision of the Snes with the RGB-A chip in it and it's only outputting monochrome. It occasionally outputs slight purples too, but it's extremely faint.

Of course I checked multiple AV cables/TVs/games and can confirm its not any of those.

I've tried pulling the pin connector off, come to find out it was soldered in and I ended up having to resolder all 62 pins. I cleaned them first though. Reseated all the RF shielding too as I've heard that can sometimes be an issue.

Also, I attempted to adjust the color pot to no avail, and ended up ordering new NTSC crystals, which also didn't fix my issue after I soldered that in. Checked the board for bad traces too and cannot find even a spot of wear on the mask.

I ordered an OEM power supply, as I've been using a retrobit junk dual system one, and I'm hoping this ended up being a case of now enough power reaching the PPU.

If anyone has any suggestions at all, please let me know, as I'm stumped on this less replacing the PPU and RGB-A chip.

>> No.4808747

I have my PS2 hooked up to a PC screen via a Scart to HDMI converter. It runs PS2 games flawlessly, however, PS1 games don't get a static image. It's running from top to bottom and again.
Anyone have an idea why that is and how I can fix it?

>> No.4808773

>>4808747
Guessing your converter doesn't support 240p. Tried it with any other consoles?

>> No.4808798

>>4807041

Even a can opener has circuit boards. A good test would be to get a working vcr for really cheap at goodwill and desolder some stuff, solder it back and see if it still works. If you don't want to do this, find a junk one on the curb or at a recycling center. It honestly doesn't matter much if it works, you just want to get practice at desoldering and resoldering components. Basically anything with a circuit board. VCR is also good for surface mount or through hole ICs practice. I removed several and got a feel for it before rgb modding my nes toploader. Without the practice on ICs I'm sure I would have lifted traces or such.

Other things: old remote control cars, old phones, printers, whatever, just as long as it has components in it on a circuit board.

Also, heat shrink tubing, while not necessary in most cases, can help with clean mods in some situations.

>> No.4808805

>>4806719
security bits and a triwing screw driver

>> No.4808810

>>4807046

It's likely an overscan issue. Unfortunately most consoles output a slightly different sized image so you kind of just have to find a sweet spot that works on all consoles. Unless it's a pvm the way to adjust is usually in a service menu, if you mess with it, make DAMN SURE you WRITE DOWN THE SETTINGS before you change anything. If you go around changing them and don't have the default value, you may never get your CRT right again. Google your model number and service menu, or service menu code. In the service manuals they usually go into detail, but not all tv manuals are online.

>> No.4808829

>>4806694
>SMD

I don't know about the specific mod, but the key to smd (say a capacitor) is to tin one pad, flux the hell out of it, then touch the tip to one leg and the solder so it melts down into the solder. You might have to lightly touch the capacitor with a tool to keep it from moving. Once this is done (be fast, don't leave it on very long) flux and solder the other side. It's honestly not bad. One thing to understand is that smd come in different package sizes, be sure to get a size that's easy to work with and not something that requires a microscope to solder.

>>4808518
>Also, I attempted to adjust the color pot to no avail, and ended up ordering new NTSC crystals

Was this a pal unit? I know on master system you have to basically jump from one IC to another to set the colorburst frequency. Might not relate to snes but it's an idea. I converted a pal master system to ntsc. It required an ntsc oscillating crystal, the jumper wire to set the color burst frequency and the 60hz mod. I didn't put a switch in to go between 50/60 because there is literally no reason I would want to play in 50hz.

If this isn't a pal unit, I have no idea, might be bad caps somewhere but this is just a guess.

>> No.4808927

>>4808829

It's a US NTSC Console im using on NTSC crts, but I actually haven't checked the caps.

From what I've seen the snes apparently had pretty good ones, but if this power supply doesn't work out I might look at that next.

>> No.4809075

I think my RGB monitor uses some kind of older standard. I use scart to bnc and on some consoles it just displays various shades of green. I then need to arbitrarily change the bnc connectors on the monitor itself to fix the issue and get color back. I really have no idea what causes this. I gets annoying having to constantly tinker at the back of monitor when I want to switch consoles. I tried every possible set-up imaginable but some consoles refuse to output color.

The monitor itself is pretty obscure but very high-quality. There's no manual to be found anywhere.

>> No.4809109

>>4808773
That might be it. I only tried with my Wii other than that

>> No.4809276
File: 43 KB, 650x310, Can Opener.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4809276

>>4808798
>Even a can opener has circuit boards.
wew lad

>> No.4809649

>>4807274
nothing?

>> No.4810653

boop

>> No.4810879

>>4809276
that's a bird not a can opener

>> No.4811161

>>4808927
>but if this power supply doesn't work out I might look at that next.

Fist things first, check the 7805 if you haven't.

>>4809276
>I forget electric can openers exist.

>>4807274
It won't turn on or show "snow" like a tv since there is no built in tuner. A powered on PVM is very hard to tell it's even on when not in darkness as it's got wonderful black levels. I'm not trying to throw shade or anything, just have no idea what you've tried or if you have other experience. I have no idea why the tally light comes on, they generally don't, but I guess someone might have wired it to come on in the past.

What exactly have you tried to hook up to it? Try different things, line a and b composite, try s-video, try rgb/composite. Let us know if anything works. Sometimes one input might be fried but others work. Make sure you have the right buttons depressed, example rgb or component, line 1, etc.

Again, let us know what exactly you've tried and what you try, it could help us diagnose. Take pics of the back when hooked up, etc.

>> No.4811183

>>4807042
I'm pretty sure there's nothing you can do about that, the color difference is from the materials oxidizing I think.

>> No.4811336

>>4811161
>I forget non-electric can openers exist.
See what I did there kid? Also, 10/tism

>> No.4811440

>>4811161
it literally won't turn on. I've tried RGB before but it didn't end up working, and I don't have any component or s-video cables. I also tried composite but that didn't work either. Besides, it doesn't play sound either. it's like powering it on only turns on the light and nothing else.

>> No.4812080

>>4806717
In the menu, press degauss and enter, should take you to the service menu.

>> No.4812253

>>4811161
>A powered on PVM is very hard to tell it's even on when not in darkness as it's got wonderful black levels
Turn the brightness all the way up and retrace lines should appear even if no signal is being input. If no change is observed then the tube or its drive circuitry is dead, if you see a change it's a problem with the input or its configuration.

>> No.4812829

>>4811161
>Fist things first, check the 7805 if you haven't.


I'm adding one to my order. The power supply seemed to brighten the picture a bit, but the output was still in monochrome.

I'm not even sure if it would make sense to recap this thing or if at that point I just threw $15 into parts that didn't solve the problem. Never seen one so stubborn where there were no bad traces and a pot adjustment/pin connector clean didn't resolve the issue.

>> No.4813021

>>4811440
>Besides, it doesn't play sound either. it's like powering it on only turns on the light and nothing else.

When it "turns on" does it make the crackling buzz sound that crts do when deguasing? Does it feel like the screen has a static charge? Does it make the standard crt high pitch noise? You said it's dead, but do you mean dead dead or no picture output? I'm just wanting to make sure.

I suspect the power supply board might be having issues. Download a service manual and poke around in the manual.

If it's dead dead or just not displaying picture?

I googled your model number and "tally light on wont power". I came up with this: https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/6q28fr/pvm20m4a_no_picture_tally_light_on/ (different model but same issue power supply or a-board) https://forums.creativecow.net/archivethread/13/401441 (suspecing power supply)

http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/view-video-display-hardware-software/77894-sony-pvm-14m4u-question.html (power supply or a board)

I'd say if you're not comfortable fixing it, sell it and use the proceeds to get a different monitor. I'm no expert but if it's dead dead and not powering it would probably be easier to just get a different one if you're not into electronics repair. If you are you could test various things starting with the power board.

Also on the pvm I have the knobs do nothing in RGB mode. If you're trying to crank the brightness, do so on a different input.

>>4812829
>I'm adding one to my order. The power supply seemed to brighten the picture a bit, but the output was still in monochrome.

Sometimes fixing this stuff can be frustrating. If nothing else it's a parts unit for future repairs. I've seen a bad 7805 on a master system give all kinds of garbled graphics, to the point that one would assume the video chip was fried. Hopefully you can get it going, but it's odd indeed.

>> No.4813719

>>4813021
It does make a crackling noise when I power it off, however, but the screen doesn't feel like it has a static charge when I turn it on. I also don't hear any crackle/buzzing when I turn it on, however, it does make the "standard CRT high pitch noise," so it's probably not dead dead. I think I will try to sell it, yeah. I bought it originally for $80, so I think I'll just sell it at that price again.
Thanks a ton for the research, anon, it really means a lot.

>> No.4814252

>>4813719
>Thanks a ton for the research, anon, it really means a lot.

You're welcome anon. It's frustrating because it sounds to me like it's almost working, no clue what could be causing it.

>> No.4815948

somebody posted a link one time, and I didn't save it and regret it
it was for a SNES multiout plug with solder tabs, for making your own cables
if anyone knows could you post it again? I can't find it with google

>> No.4815995

>>4815948
https://shop.hdretrovision.com/collections/accessories/products/nintendo-multiout-a-v-connector?variant=23147823043

Sold out at the moment though

>> No.4816328

>>4815995
>Sold out at the moment though

They usually are. You just have to watch and pre order when they open up. It's a very good product, they really should do bigger runs. I think it took me a couple months from the time I wanted one to the time it arrived on my doorstep.

>> No.4818532
File: 38 KB, 540x720, 076.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4818532

I own a PSX memorycard with precious data.
No consoles at all, just a PC.
Is there a way to recover those saves?
Thanks.

>> No.4819291
File: 195 KB, 978x759, Dexdrive.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4819291

>>4818532
dexdrive

>> No.4819438

>>4818532
If you have a parallel port you can wire that up to the memory card and then write software to implement the custom protocol and filesystem it uses and transfer the data to your PC. If you don't have a parallel port you can use USB if you add a $1 MCU if write all the software for that and do USB in software.
You can get a $10 modded PS2 and copy the save to a USB stick with an easy to use file manager
You can use one of the more retarded options like paying more for card adapters that let you read a PSx card from a PC.

>> No.4819481

Picked up a few SNESes for a few bucks. One of them displays a green picture when I try to run a game. Not the same as the black screen you'd get when turning the system on without a cartridge. No audio.

>> No.4819852

>>4819481

For issues like that, I'd air dust it and hit all the contacts first, them check around the encoder chip for any oxidized traces on the board next, near the ppu, encoder chip, and the av out port especially.

This is of course assuming you've checked the video cables, other games, official power supply, the tv

>> No.4819905
File: 23 KB, 398x500, 1442370878577.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4819905

>>4819291
thanks practical anon
>>4819438
thanks autistic anon

>> No.4821182

>>4819852
I reflowed the solder points on the AV adapter, contacts were cleaned and I've tested all the same cables and games with another SNES. The board is spotless with no oxidization. It's a mystery to me.

>> No.4821228

>>4821182

I'm the guy here with a monochrome snes still and no fix after almost everything, waiting on a voltage regulator though to confirm.

I'm wondering if these ppus and encoders were just a bit more fragile than we've been led to believe

>> No.4822298
File: 112 KB, 1024x768, gold.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4822298

Any recommended guide to replace the battery on Gold?
I know it's easy as fuck in theory but just in case.

>> No.4822434

>>4822298
First of all get a game bit to open it up then we'll talk

>> No.4822538

>>4822298
>Seeing that battery without solder tabs
Don't you fucking dare do that shitty ass electrical tape method.
You risk ripping off the pads together with the tabs while trying to pry the battery off the tabs and it's unreliable as fuck.
A little drop or the electrical tape becoming loose over time and your save is corrupted.
Get a cheap soldering iron and a cell with solder tabs like a smart person would and solder it in.

>> No.4822803

>>4822538
>Get a cheap soldering iron and a cell with solder tabs like a smart person would and solder it in.
>>4822298
This. Fuck that electrical tape early 2000s hack job shit. Soldering is stupidly easy, don't half ass it, do something you can be proud of and will last for years, not something that someone with the skill level of a 12 year old could manage.

>> No.4823008

>>4806619
I want to play fields of fire war along mohawk
found it here https://firedrop.com/6cff217e09c8dc2d

I installed it, the exe (Naturally doesn't) work. When I try to run it in win 98 it gives me the piracy protection error.
I tried to search for a crack but to no avail, is there a way to run this game?

>> No.4823126

>>4822538
Try and stop me

>> No.4823247

>>4823126
We have but if you're hell bent on doing it, then do it

Don't come crying to us when your save game gets erased though.

>> No.4823507

>>4822434
Yeah, I'm going to get a gamebit. That picture wasn't mine.
>>4822538
>>4822803
Alright, sounds like a plan. Any guide online you can reccommend? Again, even if it's silly easy, I want to make sure I don't fuck up.

>> No.4824720
File: 3.24 MB, 4096x2304, P_20180607_185041.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4824720

Hey guys, I'm trying to replace my N64 battery for smash but no matter what way I put it in it still will not save, and suggestions? Does the battery have to be touching the PCB? Cause I've been trying to force that fucker down and it just pops back up

>> No.4824768
File: 54 KB, 712x472, 1493449209651.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4824768

>>4824720
Just tried 4 more times still nothing

>> No.4824794

>>4824720

Can you show the underside of that? The solder job? Not saying you don't know how to, just want to see both sides of that board.

Also, sometimes with new batteries you have to let power run through them for a bit, as in leave the console running with them on. Not typically, but it happens

>> No.4824818
File: 326 KB, 1280x720, P_20180607_194458.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4824818

>>4824794
Sorry but my phone's camera Is bad and it's the only thing I can take pictures with. The soldering job basically has the two holes that the prongs attached to the battery go through completely sealed with no holes from what I can tell. Though I wouldn't be surprised if it was from my soldering job

>> No.4824826

>>4824818
The saving issue could be to dirty pins or the save chip just being dead. Get a multimeter and test the battery to see if it's close to 3.0v after you solder in it.

Also, NEVER put in a battery backwards it could harm the game or system.

>> No.4824842

>>4824818
this is something that they forget to warn you about when doing batteries;
THE BATTERY IS LIVE! Do not insert it backwards or let the tabs touch anything!

>> No.4824879

>>4808518

The PPU seems very unlikely. In order for the PPU to produce that fault, something would have to cause your R, G & B output lines to somehow be completely equal. You could verify this by comparing these signals with a oscilloscope as they go into the RGB-A chip (pins 1,3,5) and seeing if they're equal.

Check the S-Video and RGB outputs on the RGB-A chip as well. It's entirely possible that it's only the composite output that's broken, and that the S-Video and/or RGB is fine. Might give you some clues as to what's going wrong.

>> No.4824893
File: 7 KB, 282x289, 1505737710456.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4824893

>>4824842
>>4824826
Learned my lesson.
Just in case which tab goes in what way? The positive on the top hole and negative on the bottom hole? Cause that's what I did with mine and it felt loose, and the battery was farther from touching the pcb then the other way (Negative on top positive on bottom which had the battery almost touching the pcb and felt less loose).
The first way is what I saw people do in tutorials so I'm just confused as if it is suppose to be kind of wobbly or not

>> No.4824896

>>4819905

rare and expensive serial adapter probably incompatible with anything past win95 - you consider this practical

using a modchipped/softmodded ps2, a very low cost widely available device - you consider this autistic

dumb

>> No.4824976

>>4824893
either read the markings on the pcb or google up a pcb photo for the one you have
if you can't check polarity you have no business soldering, i'm amazed you even got it desoldered

>> No.4824989

>>4824976
If N64 carts actually had markings on the pcb I wouldn't be asking

>> No.4825016
File: 130 KB, 592x444, EGLO15HeLPlGHLVv.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4825016

>>4824989
alright stupid, you got me to google for you

>> No.4825031
File: 212 KB, 508x428, 1503972870446.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4825031

>>4825016
I didn't mean it had no markings on the pcb at all, I meant it had no positive or negative markings on the pcb itself like the gameboy pcb do. Though I do have glasses for a reason so feel free to point me to where the positive and negative markings on the pcb are.
Also I did solder it correctly the way it was shown in the image, I was just wondering if It should feel more loose than the incorrect way since I'm still a beginner when it comes to soldering.

>> No.4825043

>>4825031
the picture literally shows the battery going the opposite way from your picture
guess you're right though that there's no markings

>> No.4825086
File: 17 KB, 351x344, 1474804898299.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4825086

>>4825043
I don't think I typed what I meant to say in my first post correctly so let me rephrase what I was trying to say.

What I meant to say was that the picture I posted was my second attempt at it. The first attempt had the battery in the correct way (which I never posted). The reason I swapped the direction was because the correct way didn't work the first time and it felt loose, while the incorrect way felt like it fit better and didn't feel loose as much. Which brought me to my question of "Is it suppose to feel loose when it is put in correctly while the incorrect way does not feel loose?"
I think the reason this argument started was because I worded my question badly which is my bad

>> No.4825758

>>4824879

Very good advice, thank you! I'm going to grab an s-video cable and try that first since I can use it on the GameCube too, but I'll use the multimeter and see what I come up with.

>> No.4827003

>>4824893
It's really not suppose to be wobbly

>> No.4827030
File: 381 KB, 1728x1296, 235235235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4827030

I've got this sega genesis cart that doesn't work.

I tested continuity between ground and each pin of the rom, and the one I marked is not closing the circuit, so my guess is that somehow shit got broken inside the rom.

Is this possible? and if such, can it be fixed?

I can try anything, worse case scenario it still won't work.

>> No.4827035

>>4827030
Could always run a jumper over the PCB to the underside where it's not making connection. Or you can try and resolder the effected pin.

>> No.4827058

>>4827030
Most of the pins aren't connected to ground, they are data pins and connect to the card edge

This is fairly obvious though and am going to assume it's a pedanticproblem, and you followed a trace from the edge connector to the pin on the rim and found that its open.

The joint cracked. Hopefully it didn't lift the pad. The easiest thing would be to dab some flux on it and reflow it with a soldering iron then verify the connection to the pin is good now.

If the pad is lifted or the trace is damaged then it's a little more advanced but still totally easy to diy.

>> No.4827063
File: 368 KB, 1728x1296, 2532525235.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4827063

>>4827035
So the connection between the pin on the PCB and that specific leg of the ROM is fine, but like, if I check continuity between each leg of the ROM and the Ground Leg, they all show sign of connection, except from that one, that's why I think there's something wrong inside.

I checked other games I have and no other show this behavior.

The way I can tell there is communication with my multimetter is that if I have a value of 1 between two points; there's no continuity, if the value is 0; there's direct continuity, and if the value is something different like 8 or 14 or any number that is not 1 or 0; there is communication, but other elements are involved (like resistors, capacitors, etc)

Btw, adding a pic of the back side

>> No.4827067

>>4827058
I'll check this, thanks!

>> No.4827097

>>4827063
>>4827067
Given your diagram it seems unnecessary.

You could check continuity to the actual pin on the chip to the pad on the top and bottom

>> No.4827185

>>4827030
>between ground and each pin of the rom
Well there's yer problem

>>4827063
Learn how to into electronics before you put someones eye out with that multimeter. Seriously. You're doing it wrong.

>> No.4827332
File: 885 KB, 2560x2560, IMG_0163.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4827332

I ordered a Game Boy Pocket from Japan and I don't know if Game Boy Pockets are all supposed to be curved at the top and bottom or if I just got screwed over.
I don't have any other Game Boy Pockets to compare it to and I can't find any good photos on Google.

>> No.4827370

>>4827332
It's normal.

>> No.4828194
File: 866 KB, 2448x2448, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4828194

Found a modchip in my PS1 7001, looking to transfer it to my 1001 for better AV output. How can I find the equivalent solder points? Pic related is the current setup.

>> No.4828212

>>4828194
Also I know that you can put a PSOne laser in a 1001 for more reliability, but does anyone know if the 7001 laser can be put in the 1001?

>> No.4828261

>>4828194
>>4828212
Just forget about using the 1001 full stop. They're horrible.

>> No.4828269

Got a new crt monitor but whenever I turn it on, a orange light appears, I hear a faint sound and then it powers off. I'm guessing the power cable isn't enough?

>> No.4828279
File: 280 KB, 1000x1093, PROFEEL-04.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4828279

>>4828269
>I'm guessing the power cable isn't enough?
Your guess is right on the money.

It needs a video input too.

>> No.4828290

>>4828279
Got some BNC Cables
also fuck me, Is there any specific power cables for G225F or 21 monitors that I need?

>> No.4828295

>>4828290
IEC320 C13

>> No.4828297

Hey this is stupid but is there a good way to get s-video from an rgb signal? I have been looking for awhile and have had no luck. I ordered an rgb to svideo converter but it does not work right and it's the only one i havebeen able to find. this is for a genesis 1.5 :\

>> No.4828298

>>4828295
Bless you anon

>> No.4828303

>>4828194
Just get a modchip and mod the 1001. Don't try and transfer this over

>> No.4828309

>>4806719
>>4806742
>>4806950

You're a very British robot enthusiast. Big pwops for Walter

>> No.4828802

Does anyone know where I can find a suitable replacement part for a worn out Sega Saturn model 2 shoulder button?

>> No.4828946

>>4828802
try eBaying a broken controller.

>> No.4828948

>>4828802
I've got a set of these on order:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-Keyswitch-For-SEGA-Saturn-L-R-Gamepad-Button-Switch-SS-L-R-Joystick-Key-Switch/32805165058.html
Once I get them I'll report back on if they're any good or not.

>> No.4828953

>>4828948
see you in a month

>> No.4829114

>>4828953
Well, I ordered them a couple of weeks ago, so hopefully a bit sooner than that. But we'll see.

>> No.4829128

>>4828194
>using braided wires for soldering jumpers
mad man

>> No.4829209
File: 78 KB, 486x474, 1488936103490.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4829209

>>4823008
please halp, I'm getting desperate

>> No.4829358

>>4828194
holy shit that mod job

I wouldn't even plug power into that thing from fear of something shorting and frying

fucking thing is a fire hazard

seriously remove that modchip

>> No.4829618

>>4829128
>>4829358
Bought the PS1 from a pawn shop and it was already installed. I don't think they knew. And it's been used for years without any problems. I'm too lazy to fix it.

>> No.4829963

Anyone familiar with recapping game gears? Have a VA1 that I recapped, but the screen comes on blank.

The audio works and I can move and jump in game and hear it.

>> No.4830638

>>4828948
They need a little coaxing to fit but do work. I know it's only five bucks buy you seriously overpaid. Worst part is that someone who charges $5 for $0.5 in parts probably sells shit that will fall apart after a few hours of heavy use.

>> No.4830670

>>4830638
If you know another good source for them, or a part number, I'm interested. I got those just because they specifically mention the Saturn, and to me it's worth paying a few more bucks to not have to guess at what I need.

>> No.4830753

>>4829963

Quoting myself as an update, it was one of the capacitors that has had a pad lift up and break off the board, so if anyone has any tips on how to deal with that it's appreciated

>> No.4830856

>>4830670
It's a standard part you can get thousands of places. 6x6x8 tactile momentary push button switch with 90 degree through hole mount. Pick a few of those terms and type them into any search engine to find dozens of suppliers. Protip: Any time you see a simple part advertised as being for a console it's likely been marked up at least 10x. And probably the cheapest shit available because why would someone milking hipsters sacrifice profit for quality.

>> No.4831129
File: 78 KB, 658x614, EVQ.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4831129

>>4830856
Where are you getting 8mm from? If I am measuring correctly, the actuator length is b/w 5.5 and 6 mm

>> No.4831180

>>4831129
From the link you posted. If you can't tell the difference between that pic and the ones from that link you have a problem.

>> No.4831214

>>4830753
You have to go back and find good trace -it's not unreasonable to go back to the origin of the trace or its nearest via and solder magnet wire onto it and bodge it around the board.

Watch some episodes of Louis rossman
https://youtu.be/8sFmbS3BrJ8 I think he repairs a damaged trace in this USB drive video

>> No.4832032

Just got a Super Game Boy 2, am I fine cleaning the GB cartridge slot with a cotton bud/q-tip and isopropyl, the same way I'd clean the Super Famicom contacts on the bottom?

>> No.4832214

>>4832032
I'd clean it with some spray contact cleaner if you can find some

>> No.4832289

>>4823008
I don't know but try asking on the VOGONS pc games forum. It is dedicated to solving these kinds of questions. But read their rules as they are particular and well moderated, something we aren't as used to here.

>> No.4832294

>>4824896
modded ps2s are 10 bucks and widely available? Where is that? I would love one, I tried and failed at softmodding mine, so would be nice to get one already done.

>> No.4832494

>>4832294
Yes. Everywhere. Your inability to plug in a memory card explains a lot.

>> No.4833373

>>4832294
You can just buy freemcboot memory cards from ebay.

>> No.4833894

>>4828194
You used braided wires for soldering to a SMD IC? Holy fuck dude send me an email so I can unfuck your shit before you die and mod your 1001 with a new chip.

vrguy@mail.com

>> No.4833897

>>4833894
>braided

Someone else said that and it got stuck in my head, I meant stranded.

>> No.4833901
File: 1.01 MB, 1148x1043, 3a8.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4833901

>>4828194
Also is that solder PASTE or a really shitty lead-free cold joint wtf is this are you messing with us?

>> No.4833907
File: 685 KB, 1632x1224, IMG_0338.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4833907

>>4833901
SCPH-1001 I did yesterday, that picture was so shocking it required 4 posts.

>> No.4834009

>>4833897
Sort of like one of those birds that repeats what they hear?

>> No.4834017

>>4833907
May I ask you why you fell for the kapton tape meme rather than the hot glue meme?

How come no heat shrink meme on the dead bug?

>> No.4834018

>>4834009
Yes, like one of those birds that repeats what they hear.

>> No.4834097
File: 83 KB, 256x256, 161f62f.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4834097

>>4833907
>massive globs of solder on unused pins of the PIC

>> No.4834323

>>4834097
>what is prep-work and different models
>massive

The leads are trimmed brainlet

>> No.4834330

>>4834017
I had and use the kapton tape for BGA work and don't own a hot glue gun. Had some guy complain that I used a strip of electrical tape once that it was "unprofessional" so now I do it for memes. It does get heat shrink afterwards when I seal it, just the guy asked me for a pic of the install.

>> No.4834335

>>4834330
It's ridiculous that the.market was.memed into hating hot glue

>> No.4834350
File: 105 KB, 645x729, 1517429337730.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4834350

>>4834335
I don't have a problem with it because literally every electronics company has some product with hot glue providing strain-relief on wires etc, no one cares except le retro gamers because of the Drakon debacle. I think they like to believe the meme because it makes them feel like they are part of the in-crowd or some shit.

https://encyclopediadramatica.rs/Drakon

>> No.4834359

>>4834350
I just finish my project then step back outside of myself and ask "What would I think if I paid money for this work". If it looked like shit like his work then I wouldn't send it out. Probably had 150+ customers and none have ever said anything bad about me or my work.

I do it because it's my zen to just zone out and work on something then have someone tell me how happy it made them, I was offering to do it for free at that hackjob poster.

>> No.4834528

>>4834350
I saw some modder that all the cool kids like laying a bunch of ca glue down to hold his shit instead of hot glue.

>> No.4836103

I want to get some cheap gameboy games, but prices are retarded due to "muh retro" fags.

So I looked at flashcarts, and they're all retard expensive. At the 60+ bucks they're charging, I might as well buy a cart flasher and a dozen chink carts for a similar price.

What's the best choice for a cheap cart flasher? A nice place to buy chink clone carts in bulk would be neat too.

>> No.4836213

Question about nomad modding. I see some region free mods that set it so the mode button is held on startup to determine console region. Doesn't that make it so that you can't use 6 button controls on games? And what about with a flash cart, will the game need to have the button held down twice, since (mine at least) boots the TMSS screen once for the menu and again for the game?

Alternatively if you can get around the region modding with a flash cart then I'll just do that, I don't really want to do much modding right now, just SMS passthrough mod for the meantime.

>> No.4836395

>>4836103
>At the 60+ bucks they're charging

60 bucks is nothing, before these were mass produced you had to pay $200+

>> No.4836435

>>4834350
There's no problem with a LITTLE glue for strain relief or organization.

It's when you're using it directly on shoddy solder joints to make up for the fact that you're shit at it, and refuse to improve that it becomes a problem.

Also makes it a pain in the ass to fix later.

USE SOME FUCKING FLUX.

>> No.4836453

>>4806661
Depends on the model.
Some model 2 SCD units can't be serviced, as they require a test disc and jig and an oscilloscope to calibrate the laser AFTER it's installed (there is a service manual for the Sega CD on the internet).

>> No.4836465

>>4815995
>>4815948

You know those cheap SNES SCART cables on ebay that are selling for like $5?

They use those.
Buy one, and CAREFULLY split the connector open with a razor or small screwdriver.

Bonus points: you get a free scart cable too (it's not shielded or anything though)

>> No.4836468

>>4836435
Hot is very easy to remove with a quick wash of alcohol, which you have on hand as a repair shop

>> No.4836482

>>4836468
Not when it's mashed into the pins on a SMD package and the wires are all embedded in it.

Sure, the alcohol makes it lose its grip, but now you have to carefully cut it away from the IC without damaging the pins.

>> No.4836904

32X debugging anyone?

Games & Everdrive work fine in the Genesis alone. Hook up the 32X with OEM power supply and high quality cables - the white licensing text appears, then... (a) usually nothing, (b) brief moment of the game, then "unexpected 68000 error" or (c) everdrive displays the bootup colors, then "FAT error"

If I'm reading this right, the Motorola M68000 is in the Genesis, not the 32X. If that's the case, I'd think the problem is elsewhere. Any ideas?

>> No.4836908

>>4836904
is that all games and ed as well?

>> No.4836910

>>4836904
that sounds like an SD problem. What type of card are you using in the everdrive?

>> No.4836917
File: 837 KB, 2007x1150, nintendo_game_boy_advance__black__by_blueamnesiac-d77sxop.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4836917

Ok where do I get a good glass screen for the GBA? The one I got seems to cut off a bit of the screen, and has shadows at the top edge.

>> No.4836921

>>4836908
Tried 1 game (Zombies Ate My Neighbors) and the Everdrive several times. Both worked fine in the Genesis before adding the 32X, as well as after removing it. Zombies was blank or 68000 error, ED was blank or FAT error.

>>4836910
New Sandisk MicroSD. Reformatted after the FAT error, but continued to get it. As mentioned above, it causes no issues when straight in the Genesis and an official game had issues as well.

>> No.4836928

>>4836921
Hmm, do you have a copy of sonic 3D blast? That game when it crashes or something interrupts it it goes to a stage select screen, that's a good game to try and see what is causing it to crash. Might be a dirty cartage slot

>> No.4836930

>>4836928
>>4836921
also the 32x has 2 ribbon cables that love to fucking unseat themselves after time. Might be those.

>> No.4837007

>>4836928
>>4836930
>remove top plastic & shield
>do nothing else
>put them back on
>it works
good thing this is a permanent add-on. seems finicky as hell. wonder if it was dust or if this extremely slight tug i did on a ribbon cable made a difference.

>> No.4837015

>>4837007
the ribbon cables are shit in it. People sell 32X all the time as broken but really there's nothing wrong with them and it's the cables.

Sounds like you pushed or tapped one. Might look into replacing them if there's such a thing out there.

>> No.4837298

>>4836917
I bought one from aliexpress for one euro and its fine

>> No.4837350
File: 443 KB, 600x600, dead bug.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4837350

>>4833907
>can't even dead bug right

>> No.4837554

>>4837015
lol so it shares more with the virtual boy than just high quality 2D visuals and a weak financial success record?

>> No.4838515

>>4837554
Pretty much except you can reseat the cables and they're not glued to the PCB

>> No.4838878

>>4837350
that looks like absolute shit and idk what youre implying

>> No.4838992
File: 303 KB, 1624x1360, 1322791216251.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4838992

Here's my story - maybe someone has a suggestion.

Got a SNES (PAL) - it worked OK. Opened it up to see which revision it was (it was SNSP-CPU-01). Didn't know about the whole fuse thing, so it wouldn't power up when I put it back together (I'd blown the pico-fuse by not discharging it before opening). Replaced fuse, and whilst at it got a cap kit from console5 and redid all the caps. Put it back together - turn on (power light comes on) but no pic no sound. Pulled apart again and replaced bridge rectifier, and all caps again with a fresh set from console 5. Put it back together - turn on (power light comes on) but still no pic no sound.

I'm at a loss as to how to troubleshoot from here. I'm happy to get a logic probe or oscilloscope but i need some guidance as to what I should be testing exactly.

>> No.4839000

>>4838992
Becaue it's a thing you did to make it stop working, probably check polarity on the caps you installed, then if that checks out always start by probing for voltages where you know they should be, likecoming off the power supply, going into theCPU, GPU, and then whatever other IC you can look up,

>> No.4839005

>>4839000
Thanks. So I should look up the pinouts for the ICs, and look for the correct voltages on the pins with a multimeter?

>> No.4839023

>>4839005
man you are overthinking this shut up

>> No.4839025

>>4839023
fucking buzzword loser, "pinouts for the ICs" how about you look at the board for + or - signs on your capacitors you replaced for no reason, how about blowing in your fucking cartridge reader because some dust fell into you stupid fag

>> No.4839028

>>4808518
I assume you have checked the multi-av port? i.e. re-soldered it?

>> No.4839031
File: 42 KB, 399x322, 1525334805940.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4839031

>>4839028
bunch of clowns here fuck this thread

>> No.4839051

>>4839005
Yes. I just can't be bothered with googling it for you.

>> No.4839080

>>4838878
>leaving pins right side down so they can possibly short

>> No.4839083

>>4839025
>blowing in your fucking cartridge reader because some dust fell into
How should I do that? Do I need a special tool?

>> No.4839085
File: 63 KB, 1000x1000, 51RxUS4wVNL._SL1000_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4839085

>>4839083
Get some contact cleaner and spray it on a Q-tip and rub down the pins of your games and spray some in the cartage slot in the SNES

>> No.4839090

>>4839085
Thanks mate. I was actually trolling the nerd on his period over here >>4839025

>> No.4839094

>>4839090
Keep in mind that if that doesn't work then yes you should start testing and seeing where the fault may be. You won't be able to do much with out an oscilloscope though.

You might try posting a picture of the slot and underside of the board here. You might have cracked joint on the cartage slot because if I recall 1chip snes have directly connected slots.

>> No.4839098

>>4839094
>I recall 1chip snes have directly connected slots

It's not 1CHIP. It's SNSP-CPU-01. I'll take the suggestions given here on board and post back in a day or so when I've tried them. I think I'll also replace the 7805 to be sure.

>> No.4839105

>>4839098
Ah right my mistake.

You can remove the cartage slot then and clean under it with a tooth brush and some of that spray. Can also check the underside of the board easily to see if there's a crack

>> No.4839149

>>4839094
You don't need an oscilloscope to check for voltage. Maybe he needs a logic probe to check ram and the busses, after confirming voltage and continuity between traces, but to get started trouble shooting, you can get quite far without an oscilliscope.

>>4839098
Stop replacing shit beforeyou verify

>> No.4839153

>>4839149
just saying he will need one if he wants to check the chips more in depth. Also not everyone knows how to use a logic probe.

>> No.4839162

>>4839080
its not turned on dumbass get out pseudo-intellectual

>> No.4839168

>>4839162
Big words there. Don't hurt yourself.

>> No.4839178

>>4839149
>Stop replacing shit before you verify

So how do I test a 7805 in-circuit?

>> No.4839180
File: 41 KB, 645x729, 8d6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4839180

>>4839168
>nou

>> No.4839217

>>4838992
Build a time machine to visit yourself in the past and teach yourself common fucking sense like if it ain't broke don't "fix" it. Return to the future and see if your console works. If not go back and terminate yourself.

>> No.4839261

>>4839217
The fuse was blown. One should also replace caps as a preventive measure.

Also FYI, your posts stand out throughout this thread, which you have made very unfriendly and unhelpful with you abuse and belittling of other posters. If others upset you so much then perhaps you can find a place elsewhere that is more at your advanced skill level.

>> No.4839497
File: 42 KB, 479x720, tips fedora.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4839497

>>4839261

>> No.4839703

>>4839178
Turn it on. Is 5v coming out of it? Then thats probably not the probem.

>> No.4839974

>>4839261
>The fuse was blown. One should also replace caps as a preventive measure.


the absolute state of this board

>> No.4840303

>>4828802
>>4830670
>>4831180
Following up. I got a couple of 6x6x5.85 right angle tactile switches from digikey,EVQ-PF006K. Slightly different shape but working perfectly. replacement switch feels stiffer so I ended up replacing both shoulders for consistency. thank you for the help

>> No.4840362

>>4839974
30 year old electrolytic caps are pretty much end of life, so I can't fault him for that, I'm more upset he's just replacing regulators and whatever else because he watched a YouTube on it once.

>> No.4840401

>>4839217
>>4839497
>>4839974

can you fuck off? this isn't /b/ retard.

>> No.4840417

>>4839974

Replacing 30 year old caps before they go bad is absolutely reasonable. The things start leaking and the goo eats away at the traces.

For someone so uppity and superior, you sure are missing a lot of the absolute basics.

>> No.4840443
File: 34 KB, 680x695, 25d.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
4840443

>>4840362
You dont replace fucking capacitors because a fuse blew, he has no proof the fuse even blew, the dumbass doesnt even own or know how to use a multimeter. he watched some meme shit video from some retro gamer pseudo-intellectual electronics enthusiest that shills for his referal link to console5 for their overpriced chinese bullshit. he likely just had some dust fall into the cartridge slot when removing the shell, he is so fucking stupid that now he has done 3 new different variables that could cause issues instead of testing after replacing something, how fucking dumb are you. NONE of you have any real skill or knowledge of anything electrical or electronics on a core level beyond some dumbass shit you read from some other dumbass on the internet. fuck off and stop destroying shit because youre a retard

>> No.4840509

>>4840401
It's not your safe space either /v/tard. You should go back if you can't handle people offering sound advice instead of circle jerking autistic fools destroying consoles.

>> No.4840712

Any idea what might cause faint green scan lines on the video output of NA Super Nintendo? The issue is only noticeable when there is either vivid backgrounds or straight black ones. It's been happening over a course of 2-3 years and has only proven to be a slight eye sore.

I have tried different output cables and on different CRTs with the same result. I'm wondering if it's something worth fixing or if I should just leave it be.

>> No.4842518

>>4840443
I mean if you were already going to be taking the console apart, it makes sense to give it a full overhaul considering the age. Hell the caps could have been swelling some.