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/vr/ - Retro Games


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2773698 No.2773698 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread - >>2758694

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright! (maybe)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
S-Video Pasta: http://pastebin.com/rH2h6C7W
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

please ignore the fake other CRT thread, it's full of trolls

>> No.2773717

First for unplugging your monitor when not using it.

>> No.2773730
File: 166 KB, 1280x1707, coaxed into a snafu.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2773730

My eyes hurt when using a my CRT for at least 2 minutes, even less. how can I stop this from happening?
I think its related to scanlines

>> No.2773739

>>2773717
this

my main reason is my 2 year old likes to hit buttons. a few seconds of him spamming my power button and bye bye crt.

>> No.2773743

>>2773730
Don't think it's the scanlines. Most likely the refresh rate.

>> No.2773772
File: 240 KB, 800x450, stare jigglypuff.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2773772

>>2773743
I've got it on 60hz, can I push it up to 75hz with a 3840x480 res?

>> No.2773781 [DELETED] 

>>2773698
>please ignore the fake other CRT thread, it's full of trolls

Fuck off. You can't just make a ton of new threads for your stupid general all because there's people shitting it up.

>> No.2773782

>>2773772
Oh I don't have much experience with those crazy resolutions. I just know I can't stand 60Hz on a PC monitor.

>> No.2773786

>>2773781
Look again. The OP picture of the other thread is of an LCD.

>> No.2773790 [DELETED] 

>>2773786
I don't care you lil shit. Keep this garbage meme topic in one thread or else I will email Hiro and force you all into a new /crt/ only board.

>> No.2773797

>>2773790
>>>/out/

>> No.2773808

>>2773797
I don't think /out/ is for outdated tech from the 2000s?

>> No.2773815

>>2773808
surprisingly solid comeback
>>>/v/ would enjoy your shitposting skills more

>> No.2773820

>>2773808
>talking shit on outdated tech on a retro board

>> No.2773825

>>2773815
/v/ is for video games though?
>>2773820
>retro board
It's a retro games board not a retro board.


Either doesn't seem either place should be talking about outdated tech like CRTs from the 2000s.

>> No.2773827

>>2773815
>hurr go back to /v/!

Fuck off and keep your garbage to one thread.

>> No.2773834

>>2773825
Nearly every retro video game site and forum has CRT discussions. It is important to the hobby.

>> No.2773838 [DELETED] 

>>2773834
Then go to any of those other sites instead of forcing this off topic crap on /vr/. Or better yet TAKE IT TO THE FUCKING BOARD WE HAVE MADE JUST FOR TECHNOLOGY!

>> No.2773841 [DELETED] 

>>2773834
They have a separate hardware.
And they talk freely about all display tech instead of trying to make a special club of autism for CRTs and fanboys of them.

>> No.2773842

>>2773838
We've had this thread for years without problems from the mods and janitors. You're not gonna come in and change that.

>> No.2773849
File: 780 KB, 417x542, 1389481404373.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2773849

and today the only thing that keeps me coming back to /vr/ died

rip /crt/

>> No.2773850

>>2773838
/g/ is even more crt nazi than you

>> No.2773858

>>2773850
WHO
CU
CK

HERE

>> No.2773861

>>2773730
That is bound to happen if one is forcing himself to stare on a fucking bright screen.
Just turn on some goddamn lamps in your room and reduce brightness and contrast that black is not too dark and that white doesn't blind you, that white simply looks white to you.
Maybe I'm completely wrong with the assumption that you're using a too bright CRT in a too dark room or my eyes are simply superior to most other people. Who knows.

>>2773772
If you're going to emulate 60hz games then it will be not a good idea, unless you can push 120hz.

>>2773782
>I just know I can't stand 60Hz on a PC monitor.
This is really cute.
I use 50hz all the damn time, even with fucking interlacing and I use that on a 15khz CRT to read fucking text.
I really starting to think that my eyes are better than average or that everyone else is using his CRT in a darkroom.

>>2773838
>wild SHITPOSTER used CAPSLOCK
>It's not very effective

>>2773842
This.
The only time when the mods deleted a thread was because everyone started to discuss using CRTs to watch anime.

>> No.2773862

>>2773838
Welcome to /vr/. Since the birth of this board there were crt threads. Also writing in caps makes you look like a angry 14y old. If you don`t like it, there are other boards to discuss videogames and to be a huge faggot.

>> No.2773864

>>2773861
The anime threads were the best desu senpai

>> No.2773880

>>2773782
PC monitors may have different phosphors that go dark faster. Better suited for higher refresh rates.

TV Screens/TV Monitors generally have more persistence.

>> No.2773898
File: 120 KB, 231x494, s-l1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2773898

Should I buy a JVC PVM with these inputs if the only retro consoles I have are PS1 and Super Famicom? I know nothing about this stuff but it's only $40 so I figured I might as well go for it if the inputs are good for those consoles.

>> No.2773908

>>2773898
I, personally, wouldn't pay that much for a monitor that only does composite at best.

I probably paid less for my two RGB-capable 14" Sony PVMs together.

>JVC PVM
Are they also called PVMs?
The only JVC monitors I'm aware of are the DT-V, which I've been stalking on eBay since they have multiformat (240p/480i and 480p to 1080p) but they just go for way too much.

>> No.2773923

>>2773908
I'm not sure if it's called a PVM or not, but the model number is TM-A101GU and it says it's from a TV station so I just assumed.

I'll hold off then, I don't really play games enough anymore to warrant getting a new CRT when I still have a working 10" Sylvania.

>> No.2773941

>>2773923
>10"
What can you even use that for?

>> No.2773949

>>2773923
Be on the lookout for other monitors, though. As long as it isn't some awesome multiformat goodness (My dream CRT is one of those 16:9 32" PVMs with multiformat. I would be able to ditch the flatscreen.), you should be able to find something that also does RGB for about that much. Or at least I was able to.

>> No.2773949,1 [INTERNAL]  [DELETED] 

>>2773898
Just be aware that the monitor you've posted there can only accept composite video (via BNC) and not RGB. I would suggest getting something that could handle RGB since both Playstations and (most?) Super Nintendos output RGB natively.

>> No.2773960

>>2773898
>>2773898
Just be aware that the monitor you've posted there can only accept composite video (via BNC) and not RGB. I would suggest getting something that could handle RGB since both Playstations and (most?) Super Nintendos output RGB natively.

>> No.2774193
File: 3.91 MB, 3456x2592, DSCF6396.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774193

The shitstorm in the previous thread inspired me to make something. Enjoy, /crt/.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjJ8irRPdqk

>> No.2774256
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2774256

Im asking people who have BVM or PVM monitors where they picked theres up.? I already own a BVM-20F1U i got of ebay.

But im looking to purchase a BVM-D32E1U and can only find 2 from the same seller on ebay and he's being a PITA about shipping because he is located out of Cali and im on the east coast. Any help would be appreciated thanks!!

>> No.2774454

>>2773825
What is your fucking damage bro?

>> No.2774478

PVMs are pure autism.

>> No.2774532
File: 2.81 MB, 3456x2592, DSCF6398.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774532

Have some 480i Hiryu.

>> No.2774561

>>2774478
It's like old hifi gear, and it's called a hobby. But sure, autism, why not.

What experience do you have with PVMs, anon, out of interest?

>> No.2774606
File: 3.07 MB, 2976x2976, 1446527170157-734829975.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774606

Lg 21FD1AL

>> No.2774609

>>2774256
Whoops the model number is
BVM-D32E1WU
my mistake

>> No.2774624

>>2773834
>>2774454
Janny deleted my other post about how the forums that do talk about CRTs also openly talk about LCDs.

>> No.2774665

What sort of breakout would I need in order to use a Playstation RGB/SCART cable (sync-on-luma) with a BVM or PVM?
Apparently luma-sync gives the best video picture, but broadcast monitors require external sync and all the breakout cables I seen so far are wired for composite-sync.

>> No.2774668

>>2774665
Breakout cable wont effect the sync.

No idea if a BVM or PVM will work with a PS1 with sync on luma.

>> No.2774687

>>2774665
You have to use a scart to RGBs. The composite sync(csync) via RGBs is better than luma sync as it a dedicated sync output for just h/v sync, while luma is brightness info and sync. Luma is a close 2nd but RGBs csync is better.

>> No.2774691

>>2774687
There's no best sync.

PS1 has issues with other syncs.

>> No.2774702

>>2774609
Careful, from what I've seen, the D32s have real troubles with color purity.

>>2774665
>and all the breakout cables I seen so far are wired for composite-sync.
If a SCART cable is wired for sync-on-luma, that just means that the pin that would usually carry either Cvid or Csync is carrying luma instead. Any regular SCART to RGBS breakout cable will work correctly.

>>2774668
If the monitor would work with composite video sync without troubles, there will be no problem with luma sync. If it requires "raw/clean" composite sync, then you'd need to look into getting a sync stripper, as luma will cause the same incompatibility as normal video.

>>2774691
PS1 doesn't have any problems with composite video for sync; The reason you only see composite video for sync or luma sync cables is because Sony's Multiout doesn't actually have dedicated csync available.

>> No.2774707

>>2774702
Was my understanding that the PS1 csync was very weak when you get it off the chip.

I use luma so.

>> No.2774708

>>2774707
And the composite video as sync causes weird patterns on screen.

>> No.2774718

Hey crt bros. When referring to the 4:3 aspect ratio in speech, would you say "four-to-three" or "four-by-three" aspect ratio?

>> No.2774719

>>2774668
>No idea if a BVM or PVM will work with a PS1 with sync on luma.
I assumed it would but I could be wrong.

>>2774687
As >>2774691 said, the original Playstation has issues if used with composite sync (visual patterns/artifacting being some). PS1 was apparently built with RGsB in mind which may have something to do with it.

>>2774702
Excellent. Thank you. If I might ask one more thing though:
Will a PVM/BVM definitely accept luma sync as external-sync, or should I get a cable wired with a sync stripper just to be on the safe side?

>> No.2774724

>>2774718
America uses by.

>Will a PVM/BVM definitely accept luma sync as external-sync, or should I get a cable wired with a sync stripper just to be on the safe side?
Can try luma as sync with a sync stripper; If luma doesn't work

>> No.2774725
File: 1.28 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1533.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774725

>>2774707
I'm pretty sure that pulling csync directly without some sort of buffering is going to cause problems, so that's really not a Sony specific problem. Again, since you need to open the system up to even gain access to it, it's really not a very common option to go for.

As for composite, I personally haven't notice any quality differences between using cvid or luma. Not to say there isn't one, but it's not something I've run into.

Really, the only system that has any sizable problem with using cvid for sync is the Genesis, and even that varies by board revision.

>>2774718
Would probably depend on where you're from and language of choice, but I've always used by. Same idea as lumber dimensions.
Two by Four
Four by Three
X by Y

>>2774719
>PS1 was apparently built with RGsB in mind which may have something to do with it.
>Gs
You're not going to see any type of sync being fed along the Green line of a PS1.
A PS2 or PS3, sure (for both component and progressive scan RGB), but not the first.

>> No.2774756

>>2774725
>cvid for sync
I'll tell you the worst system for cvid for sync in my experience:
Atari STFM (the kind that has RF out and outputs composite, not csync)
The composite signal is so poor quality the screen will start scrolling if the picture gets too bright. Looking at the composite signal its probably worse than Mega Drive/Genesis which is really a feat because my Atari ST is PAL.
I should mod the system for csync one of these days.

>csync without any buffering
What kind of problems can this give? My current RGB mod for my PCE has no buffering on the csync. It tends to work just fine picture-wise with everything I've plugged it into, but is there some other reason I should maybe throw in a cap there (or maybe even an amp?).

>> No.2774761

>>2774256
>>2774609
>>2774702
That's my dream CRT, the one that would obviate the need for a flat screen. It's a shame I probably won't ever be able to find one locally/or even on my continent, though (yuropoor). I've heard that shipping those things across the atlantic will kill them (plus they're really expensive) so I'd rather find it at least within Yurop (except UK, because fuck the Royal Mail.)

Interesting to hear it might have color problems, though. How bad is it if you're not using it as a reference monitor?

>> No.2774762

>>2774756
If the PCE is fine with it, just go for it I guess.
I'm speaking mainly in hypotheticals here, but for systems that have csync offered outright, it's rarely if even a direct connection to the IC generating it, right?

Perhaps buffering is the wrong term, but that's primarily all I was trying to say. I guess I just can't words right now.

>> No.2774765

>>2774762
It doesn't have it offered outright though, unless you consider it being on the EXT connector being outright. By default the PCE (white one) is RF only, heh.

I have buffered the audio channels that I took from inside the PCE, btw. I rarely use those, though, because they are poorly amped and the sound that comes out of the interface unit, when it's plugged into that, sounds much better + has the CD audio.

>> No.2774767

>>2774718
I just say
>Four Three
>Sixteen Nine
because context makes it obvious. Probably not correct, but whatever.

>> No.2774770

>>2774767
This, I've never heard it any other way.

>> No.2774819

>>2774765
>EXT connector being outright.
I feel like that would fit.

When I say without any buffering, I mean more along the lines of trying to use the csync pin of a Mega Drive's VDP directly for sync. It's just not going to work properly without extra components.

>> No.2774826

>>2774702
I have the 20f1u for older stuff. I just want the d32 for its size, higher res, and widescreen.
>>2774761
Yeah a 220lb beast isnt cheap to ship even just across the US.
For the person asking about PS1 sync here is a cable you can buy that allows you to choose which sync you want to use. Composite, luma, or Csync

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-playstation-1-2-ps1-ps2-rgb-scart-cable-lead

>> No.2774835
File: 186 KB, 1600x1200, s-l1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774835

>>2774826
That understandable, but still, that specific model seems to get purity issues in the corners very often.

Its little brother, the D24 doesn't seem to have said problems; It also doesn't have the size, but the resolution and screen format are the same.

>>2774761
Nabbed from ebay. Convergence in the corners just goes to shit for whatever reason.

>> No.2774842

>>2774835
My worry there was the 24" is fine in 16:9 but it lacks the size factor 4:3 which would bother me because id be connecting my ps2, xbox, and gamecube to it and not all games support 16:9 if it was always widescreen i would have bought the 24" already.

Much cheaper to ship because its light enough to be under the freight weight limit.

But the one 32" on ebay has that exact same issue, so maybe ill look into buying a D24 for widescreen and the D20 for 4:3 and just daisy chain the monitors together.

>> No.2774858

>>2774835
question you might be able to answer whats the difference between the D24 and the A24

or the WU vs WE vs WA these i believe are just region specifiers

but the D vs A idk what those are for

>> No.2774890

>>2774826
I'm that dude;
I've actually already sourced a PlayStation SCART cable with luma sync. What I need now is a breakout cable with BNC connectors.

The site you listed has them but the question remains whether a BVM will take raw luma as a sync signal. I'm contemplating getting the version with a sync stripper just in case but I dunno.

>> No.2774910

>>2774842
D24 would actually have nearly the same screen size for 4:3 content as any 20'' PVM/BVM. There is a slight difference(can't remember the exact numbers) but it's a very small one; Something like 100% vs 104%, with the D24 being the 20.

Daisy chaining monitors together is still fun though, assuming you've got the right input cards.

>>2774858
U,E,A, and J are all just region specifiers, and should be relatively self explanatory.

D and A are different series of monitors, with A being newer, if I'm remembering correctly. I've also heard about them(the A series) having some problems with certain systems, with the Neogeo being the one that comes to mind. Input cards are not compatible between the two and I believe that the As are more expensive in that regard as well.

>> No.2774918

>>2774890
You dont need the sync i have the sync on luma, which i thought was csync, ps1 cable had to double check. My scart to BNC is this cable and it works.

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc

>> No.2774920

>>2774918
So it'll take raw luma as sync?
Cool. I'll go ahead and order that one then.

Thanks to everyone who offered advice.

>> No.2774923

>>2774910
thank you for your information

yeah the 20" has a 19" diagonal while the 24"
is only 17 7/8" but that extra inch means alot on a smaller screen haha but i have a 21" pc monitor i might use for 4:3 anyway. I have a component to VGA convertor on the way. It a KDS vs-21e its fancy as hell for a pc monitor and i got it for free so im happy.

also have a viewsonic a90 but it doesnt power on something wrong with the power unit

>> No.2774926

>>2774920
According to the site the cable can come with a sync stripper for composite video sync, but it doesnt offer the option to choose, so idk if its in the cable already or not, but that cable is what i have and it works.

>> No.2774935

>>2774910
i may end up getting a 32" still only cause the 24" is just over the freight cutoff so shipping will be about the same for either monitor and why not go bigger at that point, if the 24" had been cheaper by a large extent id no doubt buy it. But we shall see.

>> No.2774940

>>2774923
>viewsonic a90
I have one as well, but it has some discoloration on the top; I think it may be actual damage to the shadow mask to be entirely honest. Looks nice besides that though.

>component to VGA convertor
If you wouldn't mind me asking, which converter? I've been tossing around the idea of getting one to use primarily with my GC on the Megaview (rather than modifying the cable). Being able to use other progressive component consoles with PC monitors would be nice as well.

>>2774926
It's listed as a separate item: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/female-rgb-break-out-scart-to-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-for-sony-pvm-monitors
And for a decent amount more money.

>>2774935
That's entirely up to you, and I hope you manage to find a good one. I was just trying to let you know that the larger set has problems(in general, not just one specific monitor)

>> No.2774943

>>2774940
im just trying the Monoprice one, idk how the quality is, but its priced around the same as others so im gonna try it. I should have it by the end of the week I can let you know then how it works.

>>2774920
HEY YOU MAN DONT BUY THAT CABLE JUST YET NOW THAT >>2774940 showed me that other listing I may have purchased the cable with the sync stripper im not sure mine no longer has the sticker on it like my others... let me see if i can find my receipt for it and i can then tell you exactly which one i bought.

>> No.2774956

>>2774943
okay double checked my scart to bnc, took the scart end apart i dont believe i have a sync stripper, cause its just wires in there nothing else but idk what exactly the sync stripper would look like if its a circuitboard ordeal or what.

>> No.2774965

>>2774956
Something similar to this; Not exactly, but close. It'd likely be a little triangular pcb sitting inside the SCART hood.

https://a.pomf.cat/lkolxg.jpg
Is anyone else having trouble getting images to upload properly? I've tried selecting this image and slightly edited versions of it repeatedly and it just won't take it.

>> No.2774971
File: 1.60 MB, 2340x4160, 20151030_032445.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2774971

>>2774965
ok thats what i thought yeah i dont have any circuit board in my cable so its just a passive connector soo >>2774920 you dont need a sync stripper.
>>2774965
Do you have 4chan pass or do you just deal with the bs picture captchas?

ALso idk about pics i havent tried uploading one but ill try, heres part of my game collection just happened to be the first pic i saw.

>> No.2774981

>>2774971
It won't even let them get picked up by the post box. Captcha is working absolutely fine.

I'm thinking it might just be chrome taking a shit.

>> No.2774982

>>2774965
>>2774971
Thanks again.
I hadn't placed the order yet so don't worry.

Can't wait to play FF Tactics now.

>> No.2774994

>>2774982
haha i need to actually start playing my games instead of just buying more, but i never have time its either work,sleep,or adult responsibilites getting in the way.

>>2774981
I was just asking about the captchas because idk if its worth the $20 for the 4chanpass or not, cause they are annoying but i really dont post much not enough to warrant $20 IMO.

>> No.2775145

>>2774835
Pictures like that killed the D32 dream for me long ago. I want to believe.

>> No.2775161

>>2774835
Ah. I can definitely see shipping it causing or making what's there even worse with that too...

Well it is but a dream. Would be neat to find a multiformat monitor at all, though. I saw a 17" JVC DT-V in Spain go for 400 euro on eBay... Now I can only find the same model for more than a thousand euro in germany. and I thought 400 was too much...

I mean my current monitors (PVM-14L4 and PVM-14L2) I got locally for about $20 each.
I wish there was some way to version bump the 14L4 into a L5. The tube is the same...

>> No.2775192

>>2773825
>>2774624
Come on now. I'm a large proponent of emulation and one of the main haters of CRTs on this board. I seriously think the picture they produce is hideous, distorts the game and I honestly have a very hard time understanding why anyone wants to look at them in 2015.

But all that said, there's nothing at all wrong with a thread about them here. Especially when the bulk of the discussions is on using them with video games of the same era.

Just because you don't like something, doesn't mean you should troll and shitpost. All that does is make the overall environment around here worse and encourage CRT fans to in turn be dicks about LCDs and emulators. We all have to work together to make this place better, shitposting either way does the opposite.

>> No.2775212

>>2775192
>I honestly have a very hard time understanding why anyone wants to look at them in 2015
CRT is the lowerest latency display. CRT eliminates sample-and-hold blur without adding latency like simple strobed backlights do (CRT is equivalent to an ideal scanning backlight).

Sample-and-hold LCD (by far the most common type) is far more ugly than even the worst CRT.

>> No.2775245

>>2775212
We all have our opinions, that's my point. I don't think LCDs are perfect, but I think just the look of a CRT screen is so ugly that it by far compensates. I know you disagree fundamentally and probably like the light they give off, which is fine. But not everyone feels that way.

>> No.2775459

>>2775192
>Especially when the bulk of the discussions is on using them with video games of the same era.
90% of the CRTs here are from 2000 and later.

>Just because you don't like something
I don't hate CRTs. My point is that LCDs get post deleted on /vr/ but CRTs don't.

>>2775212
>CRT eliminates sample-and-hold blur without adding latency
Do we need to start this again? Because you're still wrong about this.

>> No.2775482

>>2775459
>Do we need to start this again? Because you're still wrong about this.
Believing in time travel still does not make it real.

>> No.2775487

>>2775459
>>2775482

You guys already have a thread. Please keep it over there.

>>2773424

>> No.2775523
File: 305 KB, 1328x888, coolantinthecooter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2775523

I picked up a 19 inch sony pvm from TSN. Never used - $40

being in buttfuck nowhere and finding this thing so cheap was a godsend. Waiting on my RBG cables but I think it still looks good on dirty composite. I have this board to thank for helping me find it. thanks guys.

>> No.2775565

>>2775487
>telling people on 4chan where to post

Because that always worked so well in the past.

>> No.2775569

>>2775523
A non-retro TV playing a non-retro game. How is this appropriate for this board again?

>> No.2775574

>>2775569
better ban me then, off to the retron thread are we then?

>> No.2775586

>>2775574
Honestly I'd prefer if we focused on talking about actual games. Like the board is supposed to be about.

>> No.2775589

>>2775586
>monitor thread
>can we plz talk games
you reap what you sow faget

>> No.2775598

>>2775589
Are you implying I made the thread? All my threads are of games.

>> No.2775690

>>2775482
You need help with that denial.

>> No.2776250

What other appliances around a monitor can excite the phosphors? I've seen this from time to time on one of my PVMs and it just happened on my Vectrex. Turned out the lights and realized it was glowing like what usually happens after using it for a bit. This is great but I haven't even turned the thing on in at least a week. Something around it must be causing this but the question is what.

>> No.2776265

>>2776250
The only external entity I'm aware of that would affect phosphor deflection is a magnetic field. Barring random noise from EMI on a signal, of course.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about how Vector displays first so you'd probably need to look up an arcade repair guide/servicing manual on the subject to see causes for certain behaviors on a monitor.

>> No.2776317

>>2776250
My CRTs always glow faintly when I turn off the lights.

>> No.2776334

>>2776265
He's not talking about phosphor deflection though, he's talking about phosphor activation by external sources. Regarding which...

Regarding which...There's often a background glow to CRT screens due to ambient electric fields in the home. I remember similar from my childhood. I presume a strong enough external electric field would also make a difference.

Out of interest, when you turn the screens on, are they brighter than normal, or about the same?

>> No.2776770

>>2776334
Must be depending on where I have them setup because my primary setup doesn't do this as far as I know. My only concern is when this happens the phosphors are slowly aging while I'm not even using it.

I'll have to check to see if it is brighter next time I notice it happen.

Anybody have a good read that explains the more technical side of CRTs?

>> No.2776791

>>2776250
>What other appliances around a monitor can excite the phosphors?
Any light source of sufficient frequency. UV will definitely work, probably visible blue too. Works like glow-in-the-dark phosphors.

>> No.2776793

>>2775598
Go back to them then, faggot.

>> No.2776809
File: 1.71 MB, 3036x2288, fgtlink.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776809

finally hooked up my d20f1u.

parallel worlds link looks like such a faggot

>> No.2776810

>>2776793
Make me, kiddo.

>> No.2776813
File: 2.09 MB, 5312x2988, 20151104_004306.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776813

>>2776809

>> No.2776815
File: 1.89 MB, 5312x2988, 20151104_004326.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776815

>>2776813

>> No.2776816

>>2776810
If you're gonna stay, talk about scanlines and convergence like a fucking normal person.

>> No.2776817
File: 2.59 MB, 5312x2988, 20151104_004350.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776817

>>2776815

>> No.2776818
File: 2.84 MB, 5312x2988, 20151104_004003.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776818

>>2776817
i'm not sure if i'm weeb enough to play it, but i knew it was a good looking game so i grabbed a shot.

>> No.2776836
File: 3.42 MB, 3000x2218, 20151104_001352.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776836

>>2776809
>>2776813
>>2776815
>>2776817
>>2776818
i think they came out pretty nice. i was just using my galaxy 6 edge, free hand.

any requests? i have pretty much every system and game.

>> No.2776839
File: 3.54 MB, 3456x2592, DSCF6392.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776839

Strider 2 doesn't come out the best in my photos for some reason. It's far, far superior in person.

>> No.2776842
File: 3.48 MB, 3456x2592, DSCF6399.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776842

>>2776839

>> No.2776846

>>2776816
They're both ugly as fuck and people who like them are more tied up in nostalgia for when they were children than the actual video game.

>> No.2776851

>>2776846
>PVMs
>nostalgia
Because we all had professional equipment when we were kids right?

>> No.2776852

>>2776836
Rondo of Blood.

>> No.2776854

So guys.

PVM-9044QM

Worth it for £35? I know it's small but I just want a small CRT for my desktop.

>> No.2776864

>>2776852
i still need to install the rgb amp into my duo r, but i'll grab some composite shots of it when i can.

>> No.2776871

>>2776864
Nice, appreciate it.

>> No.2776890
File: 410 KB, 900x526, DSC01506[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2776890

>>2776854
>S-video
>RGB/YPbPr
Yup, assuming you're going to be using it from less than 0.9144 meters away. Check for burn and be aware they're surprisingly deep, especially at that small size. Personally I'd only give about 18.42 euros for it but I already have a 13 and a 20

>> No.2777007

any safety tips or general tips for pvms? should I not be placing things on top of it i.e. systems and cartridges? i'm aware that even when unplugged it can hold vast amounts of voltage (enough to kill you). can't find any info elsewhere

>> No.2777015

>>2777007
Keep speakers away from them.
The magnets inside them can permanently affect the picture.

>> No.2777051

>>2777015
thanks homie

>> No.2777418

>>2773960
All Super Nintendos apart from the Jr output RGB natively, and even the Jr can be modded for RGB. In fact an RGB modded Jr gives the best output

>> No.2777426

>>2774665
It's different. All BVMs (as far as I'm aware) require clean sync (raw sync, composite sync, call it what you will). All PVMs however can use sync on composite or sync on luma (composite video/s-video for sync respectively). Honestly though I'm of the opinion that if you have a bit more money to spend, get csync cables. They're much more versatile and will allow you to do stuff like daisy chaining PVMs and using Extron switches and interfaces.

The PS2 doesn't output clean sync natively so you'll need to get a sync stripped either built into the head of the SCART cable or use a breakout cable with one built in. Or you could use something like the sync strike in line.

>> No.2777429

>>2774718
Four three

>> No.2777454

>>2775161
In theory you could but it would require you to replace all the internal boards haha. Not worth it.

I have an L5 (the Australian equivalent, D20L5A) and honestly the 480p function is hardly ever used. Most of the time its for component from the Gamecube but even then, not all that often. I'd just use a computer monitor and a transcoder or an LCD for 480p content.

>> No.2777458

>>2775523
If you think it looks good on composite, wait till you try RGB. It's gonna blow your mind.

>> No.2777462

>>2775598
Then why the fuck are you here?

>> No.2777496

>>2776890
that back panel is cute

>> No.2777536

So I checked the sticky but I didn't see anything about Sharp crts. I'm looking into buying this one, anyone know if it's good? The reviews I've seen for it are pretty mixed, and everyone seems to say either it's shit or it's perfect.

This is the specific model: http://www.cnet.com/products/sharp-27u-f810-27-crt-tv/specs/

>> No.2777560

>>2777536
As long as it's standard definition and has component input, it's good enough to check out. It really depends on what it looks like in person.

>> No.2777569

>>2777536
This right here>>2777560
If its an EDTV or HDTV crt even better.

>> No.2777571

>>2777569
>If its an EDTV or HDTV crt even better.
If it's an HD crt, it's worse.

>> No.2777581

>>2777571
Depending on what youre using it for. Anything 480i and lower yes a non hdcrt is prefered

EDTV are nice cause they support up to 480p i believe

>> No.2777585

>>2777571
HDTV crts are nice for xbox,ps2,gamecube cause they support 480p,720p and 16:9

>> No.2777586

>>2777536
And according to my quick research this is a flat screen crt but cant get anymore info on whether it supports a max 480i or a higher resolution the only manuals that pop up are service manuals which are of no use to me

>> No.2777589

>>2777581
>>2777585
There's one (count 'em) one /vr/ system that outputs higher than 480i

>> No.2777635

>>2777589
Yeah but just because we frequent /vr/ doesn't mean we don't like playing non /vr/ stuff too. I love my PS2, Gamecube and original xbox.

>> No.2777680

>>2777589
What he>>2777635 said

I know this is a /vr/ board but people on here may play more than just /vr/ so im informing them on what is good for what purposes. is that so bad to do???

>> No.2777684

>>2777589
Also if i may add what system would that be? Im drawing a blank atm.

>> No.2777694

>>2777684
Dreamcast does 480p

>> No.2777695

I just purchased a sony pvm20m2u and it has red green and blue lines on the top of the screen. Source was a (wii mini) composite

>> No.2777706

>>2777694
Ahh forgot about that bad boy that system was ahead of its time if you ask me. Trying to collect one of each of the colored controllers

>> No.2777710

>>2777695
My PVM 14M4A does that too. turn off underscan an 16:9 and it'll go away. If it's still noticeable go into the service menu and tweak picture adjustment.

>> No.2777757
File: 122 KB, 900x661, ikegami2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2777757

what do

It's connected to channel A because YpPbPr complains about no sync. vertical adjust doesn't let me change it very far. My mad scientist scheme to connect stuff with RGB + sync isn't ready

>> No.2777774

>>2777757
YPbPr carries sync on the green signal. When you use YPbPr you want to turn external sync off. RGBs carries sync externally (though composite sync, composite video sync or luma sync), so when you use RGB you want to turn external sync on. So make sure that external sync isn't on if you wanna test with component.

Also just double check that somewhere on the setting there's not a switch to change from RGB to Component, since often they use the same line. On my PVM14M4A it's external (there's a button that you press that will switch from RGB and YPbPr), but on my D20L5A it's internal (i.e. you have to go within the system menus to change it).

>> No.2777780

>>2777710
>>2777695
Mine do it too

>> No.2777787

>>2777774
I got YPbPr to work and I can see that it looks better but the screen is still split in that weird way

>> No.2777805

>>2777757
>Watching anime on a CRT
Why did this never occur to me?
Is there some kind of modern HDD video player that can output 480i?

>> No.2777815

>>2777805
Yeah the one I'm using was cheap as hell and and has auto resolution

>> No.2777819

for someone that has a modern fat tv. and a flat screen tv
how in the living dead pixels have you managed to get such clean. crisps pixels?

>> No.2777825

>>2777819
RGB connection.

>> No.2777826

>>2777819
PVM Son

>> No.2777827

>>2777815
Most DVD plays should output at 480i. Just have to find the adjustment in the menu

>> No.2777831

>>2777819
1) RGB + PVM/BVM/Broadcast monitor
2) XRGB-Mini Framemeister
3) Emulation and you've been duped

>> No.2777846

>>2777825
>>2777826
>>2777831
Thanks,gotta search for the stuff when next payment is.

>> No.2777870
File: 212 KB, 2048x1232, ikegami3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2777870

>>2777757
I made it worse somehow

>> No.2777871

>>2777870
>>2777757
>>>/a/
>>>/g/

>> No.2777879

>>2777870
aw shit I got it to work it was the delay button. We're in business now nigga

>>2777871
Soon my friend soon.

>> No.2777936

>>2777805
>Is there some kind of modern HDD video player that can output 480i?
"Modern"
A PS3 makes a relatively decent media player; Paired with a server on a nearby computer, it can have quite a nice bit of content streamed to it, and it comes out looking pretty nice.
On top of that, you've got access to RGBS or YPbPr, 480i or 480p(RGsB) for the former, and anything from 480i up to 1080p for the latter.
While it isn't the best on file types, that's where streaming from a media server comes in handy.
Not sure if it's something I'm overlooking in my setup, but some files do seem to have a bit of trouble with keeping audio and subs synced(only GITS and Wakfu come to mind personally), but it works quite well otherwise.

>> No.2777940

>>2777936
Wait, PS3 supports RGB?

>> No.2777953
File: 1.52 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1580.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2777953

>>2777940
RGBS, ala SCART; Uses the same exact cable as the PS1 and PS2.
If you don't have a SCART cable, a component cable that also has a composite cable attached works just as well; Alternatively, a standard component cable paired with a light gun breakout like this works as well.

It ALSO supports progressive RGB output in the form of RGsB (sync on green); Also a carryover from the PS2, but in this case, the system can output it at all times, system menu and all rather than just in game. Again, this is limited to 480p; To get anything higher, you have to use YPbPr or HDMI.

>> No.2777971

>>2777953
Interesting. Thanks for the explanation.

I'm guessing RGsB wont work on anything but those, now exceedingly rare official SCART cables though.

>> No.2777989

>>2777971
Nope, standard component cable works fine for it as well.

The system is generating everything related to the video signal outright.. Technically, a few small pieces of wire would work, so long as you could actually manage to get them to contact stuff properly.
I think you should technically have capacitors on the video lines to filter out the AC when in RGB mode, but it's worked perfectly fine with my PVMs and Megaview.
For non-professional equipment though, YMMV.

>> No.2777991

I posted this in the other thread, but fuck I don't know which is real

So I got a Super Retro Trio the other day and have been playing genesis games on my Sony Trinitron with it. I'm sort of new to this whole retro gaming thing. I have Sonic 1-3, and when using S-video I've noticed I get some screen distortion (top 2cm of screen is twisted in Chemical Plant Zone) and sometimes the screen flickers between two different image clarities. As if it's switching between component and S-video occasionally. I've noticed this doesn't really happen with Space Harrier II. That game seems to work fine. Is this an issue with my Sonic cartridges? They're used.

>> No.2778008

>>2777991
Hmm, when you are playing Genesis on your SRT via Svideo do you have both the Svideo AND Yellow video cable plugged in? Try only having one video cable plugged in at a time, either Svideo OR yellow composite- not both.

The Svideo input on the front of trinitrons have get notoriously finicky over the years as they tend to take a lot of punishment being on the front of the tv and often exposed.

If your front Svideo input is weak/dying/breaking it could be that you ARE experiencing your tv flickering between Svideo and yellow composite if you've got both cables plugged in

>> No.2778019

>>2778008
I did have both cables plugged in. Now I have just the S-video, and the image switches between S-video output and blackness at even 1-second intervals. What the hell? Playing Sonic 2.

>> No.2778042

>>2777426
>All BVMs (as far as I'm aware) require clean sync
Nah brah, no need to clean anything. Even the dirtiest Composite Vid is fine to use for sync, it'll come out clean as a whistle. Shit, you might even be able to feed RF in (via an adaptor). BVM's are the battleships of the CRT world. They do anything, with anything, and do it fricking perfectly.

This may not be true for the BVM-2000AP from the 80's, but it is for everything since. The sync line on a BVM will also handle 8Vp-p so you can just combine dat shit and not worry.

>> No.2778047

>>2778019
It could be that you've got a bad cable or a bad Svideo input on your trinitron. Try plugging the Svideo into one of the inputs in the back of the tv. They are usually a bit more sturdy

>> No.2778104

>>2777870
>>2777879
>delay button
what is the intended use of that anyway? I've also a H/V Delay button on my PVM.

>> No.2778121

So after reading the pastebin, what I'm getting is that S-Video is the way to go correct?
At a local antique store I ran into a really nice 36inch Sony CRT with Component Inputs, Composite and and one SVideo input.
Would using Svideo be better than using the component on a CRT still?
I just want to be able to play Jet Set Radio Future and not have it look as awful as it does, especially on my 46 inch Samsung LCD TV.

>> No.2778124

>>2778121
Component ≈ RGB > S-video > Composite

>> No.2778127

>>2778121
>So after reading the pastebin, what I'm getting is that S-Video is the way to go correct?

>sour grapes svideofags actually spewed their bullshit enough to make people actually believe it.

S-video is just what you settle for when you can't get component or RGB.

>> No.2778132

>>2778124
>>2778127
That clears up a lot, thank you so much.

>> No.2778137
File: 575 KB, 1403x632, Capture.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2778137

I'm going to do it, the urge to play Resident Evil Dead Aim and Silent Scope with my light guns only increases as I browse this board more and more.

>> No.2778139

>>2778121
Component would be best but S-video really is not that much "worse" than Component.

If S-video is significantly cheaper or easier to come by you will be pretty happy with that.

However since you mentions JSRF I'm guessing you are talking about OGXbox- and component cables are pretty easy to come by for that for relatively cheap. Also OGXbox looks GREAT in component.

>>2778127
>S-video = sour grapes
Its all a matter of the cost benefit analysis.

For systems like SNES or PS1 the hoops/time/effort/money you may have to jump through to get Component/RGB on your system running through that really may not worth it for the minimal "benefit" you may see.

Sempai Kya has stated in the past (and feel free to correct me anyone else) that for the most part S-video produces practically as competent quality video as RGB/Component/Scart.

>> No.2778140

>>2778127
>sour grapes svideofags actually spewed their bullshit enough to make people actually believe it.
Is /vr/ really this pathetic?

I must leave again, I can't even

>> No.2778147

>>2778137
Its pretty good, but just make sure that whatever CRT you are getting can actually use the lightgun as certain "HD CRTs" have limited or no light gun compatibility.

I know for certain from personal experience that the ##FS120 series of Sony Trinitrons work great with all light guns.

>> No.2778150

>>2778139
Think of it this way. Compared to RF and composite and all the artifacts you'd see from those, S-video gives better sharpness and color, but most of all a great noise-free image. No combing or grittiness or dullness.

RGB and component offer even better sharpness and color over S-video, but visibly not much in terms of reducing noise since S-video tackles that very well already.

>> No.2778154

>>2778139
>hoops you have to run through

hoops follows:
>get SCART cable
>plug SCART cable into CRT
>???
>PROFIT?
I love living in Europe.

>> No.2778156

>>2778137
>that shipping
About that...

>>2778139
RGB is great if you're a videophile, but S-Video is more than enough when it comes to picture quality for the vast majority of people, especially from an accessibility(for those outside of Europe) and price point of view.

>> No.2778169

>>2778156
The problem with S-Video though is that it's completely ruined by poor cables. And if you're going to go official cables it's going to cost. I think I've managed to get good quality S-Video out of a console about once, and even then the colors are quite different. I'd say S-Video is same as composite just sharper with less noise, but RGB/Component improves the colors by a lot.

>> No.2778171

>>2778150
Whole heartedly agree, but a statement like

Component ≈ RGB > S-video > Composite

Is technically correct, but can lead to some misconceptions. Something like the below might clear things up a little better

Component ≈ RGB/Scart (10/10) > S-video (9/10) > Composite (5/10) > RF (2/10)

Those are my personal scores, but hopefully you get the jist. There is a benefit jumping from S-video to RGB/Component, but its limited and not extremely noticeable.

For some people the jump is an absolute must and a religious experience. For others it is really not needed and is just money spent for almost no increased benefit.

>> No.2778172

>>2778047
I actually only have an S-video input on the back of the TV. The S-video cable is new, came with the SRT. Fuck, I really hope there isn't an issue with the TV's input.

>> No.2778175

>>2778172
Fingers crossed for you anon. I hope that you just have a janky svideo cable, and that if you replace it the problem will be fixed.

With the SRT I have found that a different/better s-video cable helps.

Also make sure that you are using the proper power supply for the console. I've found that with clones if you dont have the exact right power supply it can make things screwy with your system.

>> No.2778179
File: 88 KB, 5000x5000, 1446497095652.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2778179

>>2778121
>>2778124
>>2778127
>>2778132
>>2778137
>>2778139
>>2778140
>>2778147
>>2778150
>>2778154
>>2778156
>>2778169
>>2778171
>using svidia for a fucking xbox.

Did any of you even read his post?

Also fuck off back to >>>/v/

>> No.2778182

>>2778137
>>2778156
>shipping
lol

maybe anon's in Alaska too

>>2778179
Discussion didn't get stuck on the fact he's using an Xbox, he asked a general question about the relatives qualities of S-video compared to component. Nothing said has been off-topic from that.

>> No.2778185

>>2778182
>I just want to be able to play Jet Set Radio Future and not have it look as awful as it does, especially on my 46 inch Samsung LCD TV
Ya no.

>> No.2778194

>>2778185
>So after reading the pastebin, what I'm getting is that S-Video is the way to go correct?
>At a local antique store I ran into a really nice 36inch Sony CRT with Component Inputs, Composite and and one SVideo input.
>Would using Svideo be better than using the component on a CRT still?
Well done, you made me quote the complete remainder of the post.

>> No.2778197

>>2778179
Did you even read >>2778139

Specifically told poster that Component is best, and that for OGXbox is cheap and easily available.

Stop being smug, the rest of the posts were just a general discussion

>> No.2778198

>>2778179
I'm that original poster, clarifying what I said I wanted to see if there was a better quality picture in terms of using S Video over Component. I understand and I'm sure most of those posters know that the OG Xbox had no S Video output, but it was a general question I was throwing out there because I also own a Sega Genesis, Sega Saturn, Dreamcast, NES, and SNES as well and know some of those can be modified to output S Video because I misunderstood and assumed that S Video was also just as good as component cables if not better.

Next time think before you post please.

>> No.2778204

>>2778198
...Orignal Xbox DOES output S-video

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0485/4537/products/IMG_1746.JPG?v=1403288554

>> No.2778210

>>2778198
No retro system outputs component stock.
Pretty sure xbox has official svideo cables.

>> No.2778246

>>2777589
This board is also granted dispensation to talk about non /vr/ subjects as they relate to CRT usage. There's often overlap.

>>2777581
>EDTV[s] are nice cause they support up to 480p i believe
Minus the "up to" part, in most cases. They just process 240p/480i and show it as 480p. There are probably exceptions, but no multiformat consumer sets really did 480i natively.

>>2777757
Turn off H-delay and V-delay? Or whatever those are called on ikegami? That is, if there's no straight up V-hold.
ok i see>>2777879 now. Good to know i was right :)

>> No.2778270

>>2778210
>>2778210
ogxbox does have official svideo through their av box thing.

Not yet, but HDretrovision is coming out with SNES & Genesis component cables in the next year or so.

Not exactly sure about the tech behind it though.

>> No.2778275

>>2778270
>Not exactly sure about the tech behind it though.
Small transcoder in the cable, powered straight off the system's multi AV.

>> No.2778292

>>2778270
It's not YPbPr output from the console. It's basically just a CSY2100 built into the cable.

>> No.2778324

>>2773698
>This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

Is an old arcade machine I'm trying to restore the monitor on (or explore other options) fine too?

>> No.2778325

>>2778324
afaik yes

>> No.2778348

>>2778324
If it's a CRT monitor, sure why not?

>> No.2778395

>>2778124
RF < Composite Video < S-Video < Component YPbPr ≤ RGB

Refined that for you. Also key note that video output quality is not created equal between different systems (See: Non-OneChip SNES)

>>2777940
Yes, but only up to 480p (via RGsB, like component). Therefore it's usually not recommended for PS3 except for PS1/PS2 titles on the system. Not sure why it can't go to 720p other than an analog bandwidth limitation somewhere in the system (Can CFW push higher than 480p RGsB or is it locked via hardware?).

>>2778324
Absolutely. It's a monitor that natively accepts RGB from retro game sources so it fits the bill. Care to discuss what you're trying to repair? Nanao? WG? I'm assuming around 29" since that's very common for arcade monitors.

>> No.2778430

>>2778395
>analog bandwidth limitation somewhere in the system
No, it's an intentional artificial limit based on DVD/Blu-Ray copy protection bullshit. Same old story.

>> No.2778483

>>2778395
>>2777940
PS3 can do 1080p over component and D5 terminal RGB

>> No.2778515

>>2778483
>1080p over component
most new TVs don't like 1080p over component, not sure why. maybe soemthing with HDCP shit.

>> No.2778635

>>2778515
I think most accept it, however you can't play BD over component because muh piracy

>> No.2778691

>>2778395
Hey anon. I'm not versed on crt, but enjoy the superior quality it produces for snes. I'm not using a pvm or anything special, just one of those Samsung go clamshell tvs. How would I go about using an rf connection? Would any mods need to be done to the snes? What would be a better cut for optimum visuals? Thanks.

>> No.2778708

>>2778691
I'm hoping you mean RGB in that question for connection because RF is literally the worst quality output you can get from the SNES (or any console). To answer that question, there are tons of dedicated RF cables for the NES/SNES that plug into its internal RF Modulator. If that TV you mentioned is RF only, that's unfortunately the best you're going to get out of it anyways.

The "best cut" for optimum image quality you are going to get is RGBS but you also need a compatible monitor that can receive an RGB signal.

If the TV you mentioned has component ports, you can use an RGB > YPbPr Transcoder to convert the native RGBs on the multi-out to component. Otherwise, your only options that don't require you to get a new monitor are Composite AV cables or the RF out.

>> No.2778712

>>2778691
He was saying in that post that generally RF is the worst and RGB/component is the best. You don't want to use RF if it can be avoided.

If that's really what you want to do, though, you'd need an RF adapter for your system to connect to the antenna input on your TV.

>> No.2778735

Do 1080p CRT projectors exist?

>> No.2778809

>>2778171
>Component ≈ RGB/Scart (10/10) > S-video (9/10) > Composite (5/10) > RF (2/10)

In my recent experience with a wii it was more like:

Component (10/10) > S-video (5.5/10) > Composite (5/10)

Double checked to make sure the s-video cable was wired correctly.

>> No.2778862

What are some of the best consumer level Trinitrons that are not WEGAs with digital processing shit?

>> No.2778946

>>2778862
Pretty sure that only HD CRT TVs will do processing. So any SD Trinitron.

>> No.2779002

>>2778809
Are you doing something nutty like comparing 480p on component to 480i on S-video?

>> No.2779079
File: 3.21 MB, 4000x3000, BK b01.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2779079

Composite

>> No.2779083
File: 3.04 MB, 4000x3000, BK b02.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2779083

>>2779079
S-video

>> No.2779086

>>2778104
Don't quote me on this but I was told it is used by engineers to read some kind of information stored in the overscan areas. Something like that.

>> No.2779087
File: 3.17 MB, 4000x3000, BK b03.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2779087

>>2779083
RGB

There is some improvement over S-vid, and reds gets better because NTSC is shitty at them (PAL does better), but the jump is nowhere near going composite to S-video.

If your only better options is S-video, go for it.

>> No.2779095

>>2779087
Yeah, each step along the road from RF, Composite, S-Vid, Component, and finally to RGB has diminishing returns (with Component and RGB being near identical). It's still worth the investment if you have the compatible hardware though.

>> No.2779110

>>2779095
For europe, it's usually easier to go RGB because of SCART equiped TVs.
For NA, it's usually simpler to go S-video because many TV have it and outside of PVMs you need a transcoder to go RGB to Component.

And then there's the poor australia, PAL land but little to no SCART tvs ; for them, S-video is by far the easiest route.

And there's also devices like projectors, some may support SCART signals over their VGA in, but the adaptor is often hard to find. For this S-video is probably the best compromise.

>> No.2779112

>>2779110
>S-video
I'm an Ausfag and I had never seen S-video until I started browsing the internet. Still never seen one in person.
Here it was either RF, composite or component. Those were your options until the advent of HDMI (at least where I live).

>> No.2779117

>>2779112
Really ? S-video started becoming popular with SVHS and Hi8 vidcams. The later being 100% sony tech, pretty sure many trinitrons were equiped to accomodate S-video

>> No.2779167

>>2779117
Not in Australia. Our Trinitrons don't have s-vid

>> No.2779245

I see PVMs as great retro setup TVs regardless of their RGB ability... small, boxy, stackable, durable, handles, etc.

So you may as well try for a PVM. And once you get one, might as well go RGB. Especially for the easy RGB consoles like SNES.

Perfect manageable retro setup is a 14" PVM. Then if you have the space, grab a secondary 27"+ consumer Trinitron.

>> No.2779295

>>2779002
I really hoped I wouldn't have to clarify something so obvious. No, I am comparing 480i to 480i.

>> No.2779301

>>2779112
>>2779167
Nigga you on cr... wait... Mate, you're dreamin'

SCART did exist here, though it was pretty damn rare. If you had mates with dads who bought top TV's and Hifis and had VHS in the 70's and CD players in the very early 80s, their TVs might have had SCART.

My point is that it does turn up on sets you find on the curb, though not very often, and never really on Trinitrons.

However, Trinitrons did have S-Video here. I have no idea what you've been smoking if you think otherwise. All of them that had component would have had S-Video, at any rate. And the same goes for competing brands. There was tons of S-Video here. Sure, we had no idea what it was, but it's on most better sets from about 1992-3 onwards.

>> No.2779318

>>2779301
Lol what are you smoking? I have had 4 consumer trinitrons dated from about the late 90s to the mid 2000s and none of them had s-video.

>> No.2779324

>>2779295
lel, almost sounds like you're taking it personally. Just an innocent double-check of a minor unmentioned detail anon, no harm no foul.

>> No.2779443

>>2779324
I just sperg out a bit when I know somebody is going to do something I won't like, then they do it.

>> No.2779563

I want to invest some money into a Dreamcast with a light gun, mostly for the house of the dead series.

Will my Sony Trinitron work with a light gun?
>KV-27FS120
>480i
>flat crt

I've been reading around and all I can find are conflicting sources.
>light guns work well with most crts
>light guns do not work at all with flat screen crt's

>> No.2779569

>>2779563
Should be fine. It's the ED/HD CRTs you want to stay away from and anything digital.

>> No.2779595

>>2773698

Just ordered a XRGB Mini

what am I in for? how difficult is it to find a LCD/Plasma with as close to zero lag as possible?

>> No.2779620

>>2779569
Thanks for the feedback. Do you have experience with light guns and flat crt's or if it just conjecture?

I know light guns aren't expensive but I'd rather not waste money if I don't have to.

>> No.2779626

>>2779563
Its that light guns only work with 15khz tvs so anything that runs 480i max should be in the clear its the 31k displays as well as digital that cause ligh guns to not work.

Atleast this is my understanding dont quote me im just a random guy on the internet

>> No.2779627

>>2779595
wrong thread

>> No.2779631

>>2779620
>Thanks for the feedback. Do you have experience with light guns and flat crt's or if it just conjecture?
Ya like 15 years ago.
>>2779595
>what am I in for?
It's easy to set up. As long as you got good jp21 cables it will look amazing.
>how difficult is it to find a LCD/Plasma with as close to zero lag as possible?
Very if you mean TVs. A good gaming TV only gets made every few years. Last one being the Sony w7/w8 b models.

>> No.2779645

>>2779595
This is /crt/, you're asking the wrong dingdongs. You should ask these dingdongs instead:
>>2777884

>> No.2779654

>>2779627
>>2779631
>>2779645

I apologize. Thanks for the input.

>> No.2779662

>>2779654
Fuck them. Talk about it in this thread. Have a bunch of teens talking about CRTs from the mid 2000s anyway.

>> No.2779669

>>2779662
>Talk about LCD and plasma in this thread
If /crt/ dies and /display/ is born we are in for Triple Troll Trouble. Please don't invite this apocalypse.

>> No.2779670

>>2779662

Well the guy mostly answered my questions. I'm still wondering what the best tvs are though wondering what other users use.

>> No.2779675

>>2779670
Personally use a Sony w700b. Those TVs have around 10-14 ms lag. Pretty much nothing.

>> No.2779692

>>2779626
Yeah that's right. The way light guns work is that when you pull the trigger, it send two signals. One to the console, telling it to make the screen completely black for a frame EXCEPT for a white box where the target is, and at the same time telling the gun to activate its sensor. If the sensor in the gun lines up with the white box on the screen in that frame, it registers as a hit.

With newer displays and 480p displays, because of the processing lag when you pull on the trigger the sensor is activated first, then the white box shows on the screen. But because of the delay the sensor has already shut off by the time the white box gets to the screen, so it registers as a miss.

The more you know!

>> No.2779716

>>2779675

Looks like a nice tv. Seems very difficult to find though.

I'll keep looking, thanks.

>> No.2779753

>>2779716
Browse shmups. When a good LCD comes around they talk about it.

>> No.2779768

>>2779753

Thanks. I'll stay on the lookout. Seems like a lot of IPS monitors are good choices provided you're willing to figure out the speaker dilemma.

I'll just keep looking

>> No.2779776

>>2779768
Perhaps I'm just biased because I'm a sucker for Sony display technology, but honestly anything Sony in terms of CRT, Plasma or LED and you won't be disappointed. Sony LEDs are pretty much top of the line for gaming and while some of them might be better than others, even the worst of the bunch is going to be better than 90% of panels out there. You honestly can't really go wrong with Sony.

>> No.2779782

>>2779776
>LEDs
Ugh, just because TV manufacturer marketing departments have gotten everyone used to calling LED-backlit LCD TVs "LED TVs" doesn't mean we should propagate that same bullshit in the CRT thread no less.

>> No.2779786

>>2779776

There are so many. May take me a while to choose.

>> No.2779792

>>2779776
For gaming not so much.

>> No.2779801

>>2779792

well whats good then

>> No.2779809

>>2779801
Sony but you have to pick the right models.

>> No.2779836

>>2779809

welp. thanks I guess.

>> No.2779846

>>2779836
Try to find one of the w7/w8B models if possible.

>> No.2779847

how does the average NAC/blast city monitor compare to a consumer sony CRT? What about compared to a PVM/BVM?

i've been kicking around the idea of getting a cab for a while

>> No.2779850

>>2779846
>w7/w8B

europe only it seems unless i am mistaken

>> No.2779854

>>2779850
EU has different codes but the last letter is the same. the B models were the last wave. Current is C which is not very good for lag.

The america w6 is crap regardless the letter.

>> No.2779924

>>2779792
>Says Sony TVs are good
>Okay what's better than Sony?
>Sony

...

>> No.2779983

>>2779924
>a company makes a range of poor quality to high quality devices
>this is news

>> No.2780068
File: 150 KB, 640x480, 2014-11-24 22_05_41-[EG]Victory_Gundam_36_DVD.mkv.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2780068

>>2777805
I used my Wii to watch old toku shows on my CRTs but honestly the Wii just sucks for playback and I can't think of any other solution that uses RGB and could handle MKV.

I did watch Victory on my CRT monitor but I don't have enough space for the monitor to be connected all the time.

>> No.2780159

>>2780068
OGXbox does an ok job as long as it's no more than 480p in H264 (but depending on the encoding it might stutter though :/ so an overclocked OGXbox might be better). I would need to use a transcoding server, like with PS3's, for some more demanding material however. Also ofc no ASS rendering of subs, but it will display subs sort-of ok. (depends on how much you can tolerate subs staying on for too long etc. Also depends on if you're using the DVDPlayer or mplayer backend)

Otherwise as suggested higher up in the thread: use a PS3 with a transcoding server on your PC.

>> No.2780162

>>2778809
>Wii component
Wii component is (7/10) tops. I don't know what they did do make their component signal look so shit, but they must've done something seriously wrong. The reds are bleeding everywhere and the colors are totally wrong when you compare 240p/480i across component and RGB scart.

It's almost at the level I'd prefer playing some games in 480i RGB over 480p component.

>> No.2780181

>>2780068
my TEAC set top box was $50AUD and handles MKV with subtitles. It has YPbPr

>> No.2780203
File: 98 KB, 564x360, vga-cga.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2780203

My thing I'm doing this weekend is attaching RCA cables to those RGBS pins somehow, possibly solder and shrink tube, to see if it works. The composite output already looks OK, and handles various resolutions well, but flickers like a mofo. I played some doom, I can't sense any input lag even with a side by side comparison with the laptop screen and spastic mouse movements. Maybe because it stays analogue. I watched some videos of HDMI to CGA conversion that looked really damn laggy.

>> No.2780209

Regarding watching animu on a CRT: Think something like this would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321858625355

>> No.2780227

>>2780209
does your TV only have composite?

>> No.2780462

Is it safe to transport a pvm with a hand truck? I live in a city and am picking one up from a friend but don't have a car, can it get damaged from excessive shaking

>> No.2780465

>>2779245
Are you me?

>> No.2780478

>>2780159
I'll look into that idea.

>>2780181
Would using an adapter to scart harm the quality?

>> No.2780491

>>2778179
the OG xbox would nearly be GOAT softmodded console for emulation if it could output 240p

>> No.2780509

>>2780462
Don't just put it straight on the hand truck, try wrapping it up in a blanket or something to absorb the shaking

>> No.2780589

>>2780478
I don't think it would work and even if it would it would be worth going native anyway

these seem popular
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Freeview-Digital-TV-Reciever-Tuner-Scart-Set-Top-Box-DVB-T-ANALOG-TO-DIGITAL-/140708363696?hash=item20c2df3db0:g:u8IAAOSwe-FU5k5G

>> No.2780613

>>2780589
When you(?) mentioned a Teac set-top box did you mean this?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301775320886

>> No.2780616

>>2780613
Thats right

>> No.2780649

So I finally got an 800 line PVM in the 20m4u...and I love it.

It was a bit of an impulse buy because nowadays when you see a pvm for ~100 you take it. But its so friggin big compared to the 14 inch. It is not a cute little desk set.

Kinda bummed. But maybe someday I could do a 20m4u trade for a 14m2u

>> No.2780665

OK.
CRT afficianados tend to understand the differences between video signals and sync rates, etc, and how all that shit works.
Therefore, I feel this is a great place to ask...

Exactly what data is transferred over the extra yellow composite pass-thru on the Namco GunCons, and what exactly goes on with that little adapter the manuals say I'd need to make it Component compatible?

>> No.2780667

>>2780509
no but a pasty white boy carrying his PVM through the boulevard will only drive up hipster demand for one. so yes wrap it up, we dont need the meme priices anymore.

>> No.2780682
File: 185 KB, 977x722, ikegami6.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2780682

>>2780667
>sony
no memes no problems

>> No.2780702

>>2780682
>gee asuka, how come your mom lets you have two watermelons?

>> No.2780753

>>2780665
I think the adapter is just a little extension that doesn't affect the signal at all but rather brings the video signal to the gun so it can determine where on the screen you're aiming at.
NES and SMS lightgun games blank the screen and put white boxes on each individual target, the game keeps checking if the lightsensor detects light while the CRT draws this frame/field.
SNES, C64, Amiga and some others have a certain pin on a specific controller port that can trigger the video chipset to remember the current line and pixel being output if it receives a impulse, the game can just readout the stored value after the frame/field has been drawn.

Now that what you have simply have needs the grab video signal externally to clock and sync it's own counters which can latched and read back by the console through the controller port because the consoles controller port and video chipset doesn't have the ability latch the current line and pixel being output like the above mentioned example.

>manuals say I'd need to make it Component compatible?
Different video connectors are sure a problem that can raise the production costs.
Composite and component uses RCA connectors, S-Video uses Mini-Din 4, and 15khz RGB+Composite uses SCART.
All these connectors still transfer the exact same Color-Video-Blanking-Sync (CVBS) signals with color portion being only available in composite.
What they probably meant is that you have to use either composite or component because they use the same connector, if you want to use S-Video or SCART RGB then a pass through adapter is needed for them which brings out the needed video signal via RCA connector so you can connect your gun to it.

>> No.2780763

>>2780665
>>2780753
You'll be fine if doing component. Just plug the adapter into the green input it should work.

>> No.2780816

>>2780753
Thanks for the info. Really. But
>>2780763
seemed to read my mind and go down the exact path I was thinking of. Once I learned the basics of how light guns worked I always wondered if I could just pop that same connector on the green (Y) cable of component.

Well, to be honest, I didn't know quite how component worked at the time, so I'd try each of the cables one by one to see which flashed when I pulled the trigger.

But still...
Yeah. Figured that's how it worked. Just didn't want to muddy up my initial question.

Thanks!

>> No.2780889

>>2780649
funny, i have an 14m2u and i wish it was a 20" model because it feels just a tad too small at times
though my dream monitor is the 20l5 for its multisync

>> No.2780893

>>2780667
Kek not pasty not white. I ended up putting it in luggage. Also no meme price got it for a cool 50

>> No.2780906

>>2780889
I currently have a PVM 2530, 14m2u, and just got the 20m4u.

I love the size of the 14m2u but wanted more "exaggerated" scanlines which lead to me seeking out an 800 TVL monitor. There is a guy who lives near me who repairs and sells these a whole bunch. I'd consider a straight trade of my 20m4u and 14m2u for a 14 inch BVM just so I could have my big dumb RGB monitor and my small sharp rgb monitor.

>> No.2780910

Sorry to post back to back but while checking out 14inch PVMs I found this video. I've been wanting to do some comfy streaming with a shot like this.

It looks so cozy, I could watch this all day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MF69mAqSkiY

>> No.2780918

>>2780910
Or you could not be 15 and actually play the games.

Games looks pretty poor or it's just a terrible video.

>> No.2780926

>>2780918
You can't play games while you do work, but you can watch.

Relax bro, I play plenty.

I imagine that it is just lackluster video. Also I doubt F-Zero was the best game to since its a fast and kinda jittery game. A something more static or smoother might be easier to catch the crispness on, as that is a beautiful monitor.

>> No.2780934

>>2780926
FZero is actually perfect game. Has very distinct colors and text on screen that go to shit with poor cables or display.

Watching streams regardless is /v/ shit.

>> No.2780941

And unjustified judgmentalism is /vr/ shit.

>> No.2780951

>>2780934
For a photo still I agree, but get close up to Fzero it's quite twitchy and shaky during race action. There are plenty of bright crisp SNES games.

I understand that it's lame to not play games at all and just watch them. But I don't think that having a stream of a retro game in the background of working or doing errands is bad. It's no different than having ESPN or NPR on- just background noise.

It's not about "e-celebrities" just about catching a glimpse of a game you like and some background chatter.

Screw pewdiepie and the like

>> No.2780956

>>2780951
I disagree about fzero.

If you want to watch streams of random joes playing random games then that's all you I guess.

Should leave that shit in /v/ and not bring it to /vr/.

>> No.2780962

>>2780956
Fair enough about F-zero.

I only brought up the video because its a stream off of the CRT of choice round these parts, Sony PVM/BVMs and though others might be interested. I personally like the look. I'll leave the topic alone unless others comment.

>> No.2781001

>>2780209
No. Even though it has component out, the output resolution is going to be 1080p, which CRTs can't handle. Honestly I'd just get a DVD player and set it to 480i mode.

I've always had a theory that anime would be really sweet to watch in 240p. You could achieve this by using something like an Extron Emotia which will downscale to 15khz.

>> No.2781005

>>2781001
What would the visual difference between 240p anime and 480p anime be?

>> No.2781006

>>2780889
I've got a PVM-2730, PVM-D20L5A and a PVM-14M4A. I honestly hardly ever use the multisync functionality of the 20L5, and while it's cool to have if I ever need its its not a deal breaker for me. But it definitely is my favourite monitor just because of how sharp it is.

>> No.2781018

>>2781005
Nothing except scanlines, which might make the image a bit sharper if it was 480i, but I doubt it if it was meant to be displayed at a resolution of either 480p or HD. I dunno it'd just be a cool visual thing to do. While I reckon watching regular movies would look stupid as fuck with scanlines, watching anime with them would be cool.

>> No.2781027

>>2781018
Dont have any Anime DVDs, but would take requests for anything on Netflix.

Netflix on WiiU to Extron Emotia to PVM-2530

No promises on quality of picture/colors I havent configured it in a while.

>> No.2781043

>>2781027
You'll need to add a transcoder in there. The Extron units only take in RGBHV

>> No.2781054

>>2781043
I didnt feel like mentioning it to make it unnecessarily explanatory, but I've got component to vga converter to get the input into the Emotia.

I used to play Mario Kart 8 that way, looks great. Currently charging my gamepad for any requests that come.

>> No.2781065

>>2781054
Which one do you use? The Startech?

I've been thinking of getting one but not sure if I should get one of those or just save up for an XRGB-3, which will not only work as a pass-through and transcoder but also as an upscaler and line doubler.

>> No.2781082

I have a PVM 1944md to my left
to the right is my 27 inch LED TV from I think 2011.
Which one one would give me the best picture for a non modded Dreamcast? I would love to put it on my LED( it does have VGA inputs, 4 HDMI inputs, composite, and RF. also have a DVI-vga converter if need be....) because the only games I intend to play on it are fighting games like Capcom vs SNK or Marvel vs Capcom. the bigger screen would be nice.

if its the CRT or the LED what materials would I need?
chords/ cables? ( be specific)(brand?)

>> No.2781087

>>2781082
480p is fine I reckon on an LCD tv. Get yourself a good quality VGA box for the dreamcast and a VGA cable, and you'll be good to go.

>> No.2781090

>>2781065
I'm currently using the Monoprice one. I've also used the "video converter" one (there is a picture on the front with a family on the couch watching the tv- kinda looks like an IKEA ad), and worked just as well.

What kind of monitor do you plan to use it on? The only reason I got it was the 2530 was the first PVM I ever saw so I bought it...I didnt know it was 240p and no Component inputs. This was the only way to get component inputs onto the 2530.

>> No.2781092

>>2781087
the VGA box. Ive seen this a lot what is its purpose and What would happen if I just used a dreamcast VGA cord?

>> No.2781104

>>2781092
just watched a video looks easy enough hopefully my screen wont stretch the image too much.

jeesh I never thought of imaging hardware or software the same until I came to this board.

>> No.2781113

>>2781092
Almost all the dreamcast VGA cords are crap. Don't bother. Just invest in a good VGA box, you'll be glad you did. Behar Bros make some awesome VGA boxes.

>> No.2781121

>>2781090
I have a ton of monitors haha. Like probably 6 or 7. A few PVMs, a BVM, and some computer CRTs. I just want to be able to feed component out consoles into the emotia so I can downscale them.

>> No.2781142

>>2781121
If you've got that many it might be worth it. Just be sure that when you are shopping around you get one WITH a power supply. Alot are sold sans- power supply.

>> No.2781156

>>2774835
Why does this happens?

>> No.2781168

>>2774609
It is like Freeza's last form. It's larger...but does it retain control and still look pleasant?

>> No.2781205

>>2781001
>I've always had a theory that anime would be really sweet to watch in 240p.
How so? Anime is nothing like sprite-based games that can make good use of scanlines to mask pixel edges, it's more like live action film or video where the additional image detail of higher resolutions is generally more visually impressive and preferable.

>> No.2781308
File: 3.82 MB, 4020x2388, convergence yoke.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781308

Had to take the yoke off my PVM-20L5 to remove a bad convergence strip (the adhesive came off the strip and attached to inside of the yoke), so I just spent the last couple days adjusting it to get convergence and color purity good again. Think I've nailed it at last.

Hope I never have to touch this thing again once I find a way to glue it back on. Anyone got suggestions? Don't have any caulk on me and wondering about cheap alternatives. If necessary I will go and get some caulk from a hardware store though.

>> No.2781320

>>2781082
Unless the LCD is 480 pixels in height I'd claim the PVM-1944MD will. I have a PVM-1944Q, which I believe is the non-medical version of your monitor, which was made in '89. Mine looks awesome on it. Looks better on my 20L5, though, because 480p.

But an LCD stretching a picture always looks like shit to me.

>> No.2781352

>>2781320
I disagree. 480p upscaled to 720p or 1080p will look better than playing the game at 480i. Have you remember that the PVM-1944MD is an SD set without 480p capability, so you're going to have flicker. I'd rather play on a set without flicker but upscaled.

>> No.2781395

>>2777710
What would be the reason for my pvms picture to seem to be bouncing until it warms up

>> No.2781397

>>2781352
>implying progressive scan CRT's don't flicker

>> No.2781398

>>2777710
>>2777780
>>2781395

My PVM has major distortion in the corners until it warms up.

It still has some distortion in the corners when the screen is an overwhelmingly bright color. If I turn the brightness all the way down it goes away.

Any ideas of the cause or do I just have to deal and turn the brightness down.

>> No.2781403

>>2781395
webm or gif please.

>> No.2781410

>>2781397
Sure, but only at the refresh rate. A 480i image will flicker more than a 480p one because the frames are interlaced. No shit, all CRTs fliker you sperglord. I'm just saying that a 480p image will be more stable than a 480i one.

>> No.2781425

>>2781395
CRTs just take time to warm now days. It's a combination of things, like old capacitors, perhaps dust getting on the circuit etc.

I'd say you should be looking to turn the brightness down anyway, since it'll make the tube last longer. If you want perfect brightness get up a SMPTE colour bar pattern and adjust brightness that way. Maybe even set your colour settings to 6500K too.

>> No.2781441

>>2781395
>>2781398
>>2781425
Power supply issues or the tube is just getting old.

Now you understand why it's not such a good idea to buy CRTs.

>> No.2781494

>>2781441
More like cold solder joints. An easy reflow fixes that easily, but LCDs are ugly and laggy forever.

Yeah I took the bait. It's mine now and you can't have it back.

>> No.2781496

What is the largest size of professional CRTs?
I know that Consumer CRT TVs max out at 40".
I haven't been able to find pro CRTs more than 20"

Also I want to put large (at least as tall as the CRT) speakers next to it. Will the magnets inside these bork the display?

>> No.2781497

>>2781494
>reflowing
And I'm the one who's bating?

You're talking about like 10+ year old CRTs. They aren't lasting forever.

>LCDs are ugly and laggy forever.
Ah ok a troll

>> No.2781501

>>2781497
You can buy a 15-year-old CRT TV or monitor today for next to nothing and expect to use it longer than the original owner did. at full price. Nothing lasts forever but CRTs are neither delicate flowers nor timebombs.

>> No.2781504

i know pvm's above 20 inches exist but what are the model names? Also which ones do you want to steer clear from if any

>> No.2781505

>>2781501
>Nothing lasts forever but CRTs are neither delicate flowers nor timebombs.
Are you joking?
CRTs run hot and die early. Ya your definition of usable may bee different and you may get a long life out of a CRT. NO professional CRT is performing in spec these days.

>> No.2781508
File: 3.76 MB, 4864x3648, DSC00064s.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781508

>>2781496
>>2781504
>I haven't been able to find pro CRTs more than 20"
Technically, there's a 41-ish presentation monitor, but you're more likely to find it's newer, 37inch cousins.

NEC and Mitsubishi both have professional stuff offered in the 29'' and 37'' range. Sony has some older 4:3 stuff in 25'' and 30''; There's also the BVM-D32E1WU, but it is very expensive, not terribly common, and is liable to run into problems
see >>2774835
Several of that specific monitor have come up for sale on ebay, and most of them have the same exact issue.

PVM 2530
PVM 2950(qm)
NEC XM29
NEC XP37
Mitsubishi Megaview 37 (XC-37**, where the ** are variations.)
To name a few

Pictured is a XC-3730, next to a 14'' and 20'' PVM.

>> No.2781509
File: 35 KB, 217x206, wink.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781509

Using the Wii's VGA GX emulator to play gameboy advance games on CRT feels just fine.

The Wii is truly a great console for emulation.

>> No.2781512
File: 126 KB, 720x576, blog_skeletor_throne_04.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781512

>>2781508
Give me that Mitsubishi, you meanie

>> No.2781515

>>2781505
My oldest one from childhood runs hot, looks great, survived many moves, and outlived my pets. Then again, it was assembled in Indiana instead of Shenzhen so there's that.

>> No.2781523

>>2781509
How are you able to tolerate the abominable wii remote and nunchuk controlls tho?

>> No.2781528
File: 113 KB, 970x679, wii-classic-controller-pro-xl.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781528

>>2781523
I'm either using this or a gamecube controller

>> No.2781529

>>2781508
Pictures do NOT do justice to how much bigger the 20in is than the 14 inch.

The 20 seems much closer to the 25 than the 14 in in real life.

>> No.2781538

>>2781529
The picture doesn't give the 14inch justice either, it's a pretty decent size in person. I'm sure the picture doesn't do the 37 inch justice either.

>> No.2781542

>>2781538
would need an universal comparator object, like a soda can

>> No.2781549

>>2781529
>>2781538
How anyone that lives in a 1st world country can live with a sub 24" monitor is beyond me.

>> No.2781559

>>2781549
You get a lot of nostalgia bonus points for playing on a tiny crt

>> No.2781561

>>2781559
That would need a consumer CRT with composite also.

>> No.2781563

>>2781561
scart is a thing. Only really tiny, battery/car powered tvs didn't have one over here.

>> No.2781564

>>2781549
14 inch monitor saves on space which I don't have much of

>> No.2781567

>>2781509
I hope you mean the GBAtemp fork. The older versions have terrible ass scaling.

>>2781529
>>2781538
It's always difficult to get more than one CRT to render properly, let alone all on the same plane. It's for that exact reason that the Megaview is angled and the 14'' is slightly further away than the 20''.

>>2781542
Sorta why I had the Genesis in front of it; More so the game, since the Model 3 isn't as terribly well known size-wise. Gimme a second and I'll see what I can do

>> No.2781572

>>2781563
Thought we were talking 1st world.
>>2781564
Why would you buy a PVM if your retro games are pushed to the side?

>> No.2781617

>>2781410
for me, at least (NTSC country btw), 480i is quite bearable. 480p is better, I will agree. But I managed to live for years with 480i when CRT's were still the only real option. I'd not prefer shitty LCD scaling to a bit more flicker.

>> No.2781619

>>2781494
To clarify, the guy you replied to is wrong. The tube itself would not cause that bouncing. It could be a circuitry problem, but the tube itself aging only results in a slightly dimmer image over time.

>> No.2781625
File: 3.35 MB, 7116x1488, god damn the filesize on this is still going to be huge2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781625

>>2781567
Half-assed, but whatever.

Close up of the sprite is taken with the game the same distance from the screen and the camera the same distance from the game.

15MB unscaled version: https://a.pomf.cat/zzojjs.jpg

>>2781619
>>2781395
If the "bouncing" only lasts ~10 or so seconds after power on(it really all depends on what your definition of "warm up" is) that could very well just be the power on degauss cycle finishing up.

>> No.2781630

>>2781625
This is true. He still needs to show is a GIF or webm.

>> No.2781631

>>2781630
*us.

>>2781308
Wow, that looks pretty good.
How hard was it to take apart and reassemble? Thinking about doing it on my old Apple monitor because it had a definite convergence problem when I looked at a crosshatch pattern on it.

>> No.2781647
File: 2.80 MB, 4608x3456, 20l5-before.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781647

>>2781631
It wasn't easy at all and I don't recommend it unless you have no other options.

Take lots of pictures of the assembly before taking it apart - you might regret it later if you don't. Also take a look at a service manual if you can find one. Mine wasn't extremely helpful (neglected to mention that the two white dials on the yoke in the picture can effect convergence, which came in handy), but it did help me to disassemble the thing.

You have to get the yoke (the cone part closest to the front of the CRT) at just the right position on the neck of the tube, at just the right angle (centering it is haaard), and if you know what's good for you you won't do what I did and remove the rubber wedges if yours has them. Try twisting the yoke to get it off when you get to it, but you'll have to remove several other things including convergence rings first which will have to be rotated and positioned just right when you put it all back together. I spent at least 5 hours on it because I was incredibly thorough. Also, have a test DVD that can give you cross-hatch patterns and a solid white screen ready so you can test convergence and color purity. If the yoke is too far from the front of the tube, areas that should be red in the corner of the tube might be blue, and so on. If your apple monitor has RGB, use a white screen on a SNES or similar and only plug in the red channel to test red purity. Otherwise, the white screen can suffice.

Also, be sure you know what you're doing. It's not like servicing a PC - DO NOT use an antistatic mat or ground yourself in any way. Do not hold the chassis for example with your free hand while working. The flyback and several other parts in CRT's can kill you, including the tube itself if you stray close to the anode cap (suction cup on the back of the tube).

>> No.2781650
File: 2.76 MB, 4608x3456, 20l5-progress.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781650

>>2781647
Progress image. Note that the neckboard is almost always socketed to ease in CRT replacement. Just be careful while handling the boards and don't ground the boards to the chassis accidentally or bad shit could happen.

>> No.2781651
File: 3.04 MB, 4608x3456, 20l5-convergence-fucker.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781651

>>2781650
In yellow, the little shit that caused my convergence issue. Convergence strips are helpful for fine tuning convergence at the corners of tubes after placing the yoke, but the adhesive came off this one while I was moving it around and it got stuck inside the yoke. This is why I took it apart.

>> No.2781653

>>2781651
aand an image of it partially back together. When I get new glue for the rubber feet that I foolishly removed, and I've put the metal clamps back on the moving parts on the tube neck, I will post a final pic.

>> No.2781657
File: 2.99 MB, 4608x3456, 20l5-partially-reassembled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781657

>>2781653
fuck no picture

>> No.2781659

>>2781625
the genesis cart is tttiiiiiiinnnnnnyyyyy on the megaview......

>> No.2781671

>>2781625
Much better colors on the trinitron

>> No.2781676
File: 3.96 MB, 5472x3648, DSC00762s.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781676

>>2781671
I wasn't really going for color or picture accuracy, but you're not wrong on that front. There are two Trinitrons there, though.
The Megaview is in severe need of servicing, and seems to need to be run with termination off to get a nice bright picture; When you're chaining signals, this will cause anything earlier in the chain to get blown out. On top of this, having the brightness and/or contrast set too highly with termination on causes weird interference to crop up, which forces both of those down to get rid of it.

I also forgot to set my white balance back to the custom Color Temp setting, so it's quite possible those were all taken with different white balances.

>> No.2781693

>>2781617
Scaling from 480p is not that bad. The problem you get when scaling retro is that most consumer LCDs treat 240p as 480i, so it deinterlaces the picture when it really doesn't need to. Most consumer LCDs will properly treat 480p though so it really doesn't look crap. The flicker from 480i is fucking horrible. It's like a mini seizure on your screen. I can't honestly believe why anyone would choose an interlaced picture when, for perhaps a very very marginal decrease in quality you can have a stable picture.

>> No.2781698

>/crt/

you've chaaanged, maaan
it USED to be about the CRTs

>> No.2781724

>>2781693
no, the problem you get with scaling is that LCD's have native resolutions and anything that isn't in that native resolution gets ugly stretching done to it.

>> No.2781726
File: 253 KB, 630x402, hypocrisy.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781726

>>2781693
>on CRT thread
>promoting LCD's that can't do most of what CRT's do
>not even suggesting PC CRT monitors when almost all of them if even slightly modern do 480p

>> No.2781727
File: 2.96 MB, 3456x4608, rs-server-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781727

>> No.2781736

>>2781724
I know about native resolutions. That's why you set your TV to 4:3 mode. Literally zero difference in aspect ration then playing on a 4:3 CRT. Yeah the image gets a bit of scaling but it's so much better than having interlaced flicker. A lot of guides online even say that 480p+, if you can't get a 480p monitor and cant afford an external scaler, just plug it in. It's not as detrimental as plugging in a 240p source.

>>2781726
Jesus Christ, if you had actually bothered to look back far enough you'd read that OP had TWO choices. Either plug his dreamcast into a 480i TV via SCART, or 480p into an LCD via VGA. NOWHERE does it say that he had a PC monitor. Obviously the best choice is to play Dreamcast on a 480p computer monitor but he doesn't have one. THE NEXT BEST ALTERNATIVE is to play on an LCD. Fucking hell..

>> No.2781756

>>2781693
Is there any kind of device that can take a 480p signal via component or whatever, then throw out every second line and output it as 240p?

>> No.2781757

>>2781736
>set your LCD to 4:3 mode and it immediately has 480 pixels height even if it's a 1920x1080 LCD, or 480 is evenly divisible by 1080
this is some seriously good math.

>> No.2781763

>>2781756
Yes. There are a bunch of downscaling units called the Emotia line by manufacturer Extron. Read Fudoh's website for a list of downscalers (http://scanlines.hazard-city.de/))

>>2781757
4:3 mode will maintain the shape of the original output (well, not really. Dreamcast outputs in 720x480 but it's no different from a 4:3 CRT). Obviously scaling is involved but it's not that bad. Still much better than an interlaced image.

>> No.2781774
File: 947 KB, 3318x2487, 480p unsupported.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781774

>>2781757
>Is there any kind of device that can take a 480p signal via component or whatever, then throw out every second line and output it as 240p?
That'd be awesome, but there's a problem with doing that. 480p has to draw lines about twice as quickly - two lines are drawn in 480p in the time that one is drawn in 480i. That's why if you try to display 480p on a CRT that doesn't support it you will get two frames next to each other. Dropping every other line from 480p would get you to 240p (or maybe 480i, that might depend on the TV), but you'd have an image taking up half the screen unless you did more processing to it and introduced lag or dropped even more information. it would be the same as the attached image but with only one side of it. It'd fill about half your screen's width.

It'd be easier and very doable to drop the odd field from a 480i image, instead drawing the even field a second time, bringing you to 240p.

The only CRT I have here does support 480p, but I faked a TV that does not by using 480p with composite video as sync (composite = 480i) from the DVD player.

>> No.2781778

>>2781763
> Obviously scaling is involved but it's not that bad. Still much better than an interlaced image.
You've never used a PC LCD at non-native resolution, have you?
Ahh. What I would give to be underage and naive.

>> No.2781787
File: 1.55 MB, 4608x3456, 480p-supported.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781787

>>2781774
for comparison, 480p on same TV. PVM-20L5.

>> No.2781797

>>2781774
Whoops,
>>2781756
meant to reply to you.

>> No.2781798
File: 557 KB, 2466x404, Screen Shot 2015-11-07 at 11.20.33 pm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2781798

>>2781778
Bit blurry? Sure? Better than using an interlaced image? Definitely. Interlaced should NEVER be used if it can be avoided.

Fudoh, who is pretty much a guru and knows more on this subject than you or I will ever consider knowing, seems to agree with me.

>> No.2781810

>>2781763
>>2781774
Thanks for the explanations.
I had a look at the deinterlacing/downscaler page but all the equipment described seem to only accept VGA input.

>It'd be easier and very doable to drop the odd field from a 480i image, instead drawing the even field a second time, bringing you to 240p.
Is there anything that can do this, but which accepts component?

>> No.2781814

>>2781810
>but which accepts component?
Sorry, I meant "which accepts component or RGB/SCART?".

I'm trying to get a system which ouputs 480i/480p exclusively to render on a PVM at 240p with scanlines.

>> No.2781815

>>2781814
It would be easiest to do this with RGB SCART. Component, it's still doable. I don't know of existing tools for it, but it sounds fun and I might try something.

>> No.2781834

>>2781815
Actually wait, I re-read the page just now and it looks like an Extron RGB interface can be made to deinterlace 480i to 240p by adding a line offset.
Apparently there's still some flicker with true 480i sources (rather than ports with line-doubling), but it has to be better than displaying raw 480i.

The author says even this flicker can be eliminated but you need a scan converter + VGA source so it's not really applicable.

>> No.2781884

>>2781724
Absolutely, plus scaling also introduces additional lag on top of LCD screen response time.

>>2781763
>Obviously scaling is involved but it's not that bad. Still much better than an interlaced image.
Everyone's entitled to their opinion but that's clearly subjective. Not everyone is a fan of scaling artifacts, especially with the non-integer scaling you encounter going from 480 to 1080 like anon mentioned.

>>2781798
I would be more careful of appealing to authority on subjective matters than this. Obviously Fudoh isn't the biggest fan of the typical scalers you'll find in most LCD TVs. His domain is high-end scaler hardware and most anything he mentions on the issue involves such equipment. As you emphatically mentioned elsewhere, the second of anon's two options is to plug a DC directly into the VGA into of a regular old LCD TV, leaving the deinterlacing and scaling stage to the TV itself. Many would prefer the lag-free and true-to-period results of RGB SCART into a 480i CRT to that.

>> No.2781949

>>2781651
Good thing that you didn't had a consumer Trinitron.
Removing or rotating the yoke is next to impossible, even if the clamp screw is completely loose.
These seem to have some sort of plastic hooks which I didn't dare to fuck up.

>> No.2781968

>>2781647
>(neglected to mention that the two white dials on the yoke in the picture can effect convergence, which came in handy)

I've wondered what these were for and figured that they would affect the magnetics in some way. I've got the same on a PVM-20M2MDE (though in a different position).
In what exact way did they change the convergence?

>> No.2781970

Is there a list of 480p-compatible RGB monitors?
I stumbled onto a PVM-20M4U (800TVL), and a sticker on the bezel says "HR Trinitron" but I don't know if that means anything.

>> No.2781982

>>2781970
HR Trinitron just refers to the high horizontal resolution (800 TVL)

>> No.2781987

>>2781970
The 480p (and up) will usually be called "multiformat". If you're unsure can always just google the monitor and you should find a spec sheet. Actually do that even if you feel sure, it never hurts.

>> No.2782005

>>2781982
>>2781987
Cheers.
Doesn't seem as though it supports it though, so bugger.

>> No.2782039

>>2781884
>>2781778
>>2781778
>>2781757
>>2781726
Not to often you see a CRT fanboy actually promote interlace flicker.

>> No.2782063
File: 3.78 MB, 4608x6912, pvm-480p-and-rgb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2782063

>>2781798
>this one guy agrees with me
I wonder why the engineers at RCA went with interlaced video when developing their TV system. Hm, it's because they knew they had a bandwidth problem at the time with slow devices but knew the tradeoff to be a good thing.

I understand fudoh doesn't like interlacing. Don't claim that he is the ultimate authority on all things video. He's not. He has tastes just like I do or you do. Would I prefer progressive scan at the same resolution? Yes. is it strictly necessary for me to not whine? No. I have a PVM-20L5 because it was free, not because I needed 480p to survive.

>>2781884
I agree with you. However, I wouldn't use the word SCART. It isn't strictly necessary to tie RGB to SCART... after all, the PVM's don't use SCART for their RGB inputs either. I don't have SCART at any point in my setup.
Sorry, nitpicking. Not very important.

>>2781970
>A list of 480p compatible monitors?
I'm only aware of the 14L5 and 20L5 monitors, and PC monitors.

Also, some rear-projection TV's and 'HD' CRT's, but I know many (most?) of those do digital upscaling on 240p/480i signals.

>>>2782039
Not to often you see a CRT fanboy actually promote interlace flicker.
Two problems:
1) If you read my fucking posts, you'd see that I have said that I would prefer progressive. However, interlacing works on CRT's relatively well because it gives you twice the apparent resolution and uses less bandwidth. It beats the (comparatively) shit black levels and (objectively) poor scaling of analog content you get from an LCD.
2) *too

>>2781968
>what exactly did the knobs do?
I used to have this problem with my CRT where on the left side of the screen only the blue gun was out of convergence. It was very visible with a cross-hatch pattern. Turning the knob labeled 'L' seemed to fix it. It borked the bottom right corner of the screen, but I fixed that with the other knob. A convergence strip might also have done the trick since it was a corner issue.

>> No.2782068

>>2781968
>>2782063
P.S. You can see the convergence problem on the left hand side of the image I posted from Paper Mario TTYD. I fixed that while I was inside my monitor this week - that's just an old pic.

>> No.2782074
File: 3.61 MB, 4608x3456, porygon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2782074

>>2781834
I watch anime some and prefer 480i to 240p because that extra bit of detail is nice and the amount of detail lost by cutting out half the image is pretty drastic. For comparison, you can get the same vertical resolution out of an iPod Classic (320x240). It only looks decent on the ipod because the screen is miniscule. I can imagine watching anime at 240p on a large screen, but the thick 'scan lines' would be worse than the flicker from 480i to me.

(pictured: from that pokemon episode that caused all those seizures in 1997. It's a still image, because I'm not that evil.)

>> No.2782082

>>2782063
>1) If you read my fucking posts, you'd see that I have said that I would prefer progressive. However, interlacing works on CRT's relatively well because it gives you twice the apparent resolution and uses less bandwidth. It beats the (comparatively) shit black levels and (objectively) poor scaling of analog content you get from an LCD.
Poor scaling? Deal with good scalers maybe.

CRT black levels are only good if you have no ambient light and image mostly black. CRTs have really REALLY poor contrast.

>> No.2782083

>>2782082
>>2782063
Also to add you're pretty retarded to like interlaced anything with the blur and flicker that comes with it.

>> No.2782091

>>2782082
Poor scalers meaning the scaler in the TV. Not everyone blows money on scalers that cost more than TV's.
>>2782083
>blur comes from interlacing
nope.
flicker, yes. Did I not say repeatedly that I would prefer progressive? I simply do not DISlike interlacing. I am neutral on it. You are the one claiming I like something despite me proclaiming neutrality, and are for that and spending money on scalers instead of good gear a retard.

>> No.2782094
File: 3.69 MB, 4608x3456, fixed convergence but still bad camera skills.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2782094

>>2782074
comparison: after convergence fixed

>> No.2782095

>>2782074
The way people were behaving in here earlier I was led to believe the flickering that results from a CRT displaying an interlaced signal is worse than the devil.
But really, the main reason I'm looking into this stuff is to play PS2 and 360 ports of CAVE shmups, which are upscaled to begin with; tossing out half the lines merely restores the image.

That said, while connecting up a 360 appears simple enough (since there's an official VGA cable) the PS2 is looking to be a major pain in the ass. Having pored over the system11 forum archives the past few hours, it seems I'll have to order a sync strike to go from RGBs to RGBHV.
From there I can either get an Extron interface for faux-240p or splash out for one of those Mimo Genius boxes. And this is going a bit off-topic now, but since I've got a Framemeister collecting dust I might sell that then opt for the latter.

Thanks for all your help guys. I'd still be clueless if not for your earlier advice.

>> No.2782101

>>2782095
>not growing up with a CRT in your house
>being this underage

I am serious. How old are you and why do you not remember CRT TV's? All broadcasts for a very, very long time were interlaced. I was born in '93 and I remember having a CRT as our primary TV in our house until at least 2006. My parents still have another CRT in their basement. I feel like you must be 13 or something. Please explain yourself because I want to be wrong and not feel old. -_-

>> No.2782102

>>2782091
>scalers are bad but not the good scalers
CRT fanboys are funny when they're in a corner faced with evidence and facts.
>nope
Are you 15 or just this much a of fanboy? Interlaced is a shitload of blur. That's how it works.

You keep mentioning progressive. Only 1 mainstream console can even use a PC CRT monitor without a transcoder or line doubler.
And don;t mention HD CRTs because then your argument of scaling and lag goes right the fuck out the door.

>> No.2782106

>>2782063
>It isn't strictly necessary to tie RGB to SCART
Yeah I'm aware, I mentioned it because the other guy did. My mistake, upthread the original anon says he has a PVM-1944.

>> No.2782114

>>2782063
Ah, so it's a method of moving Blue without affecting Red? That's interesting (and completely undocumented, too much of CRT maintenance is assumed knowledge)

>> No.2782115

>>2782102
>Interlaced is a shitload of blur. That's how it works.
Only minor vertical blur as a side effect of the flicker (the vertical flicker counteracting the anti-sample-and-hold blur effect of the refresh rate flicker).

>> No.2782117

>>2782101
I'm actually older than you (born in '92), but it's been more than 10 years since I've used a consumer CRT TV with any frequency so I've pretty much forgotten what sort of quality to expect from interlacing.

>> No.2782120

I got a BVM-D20F1A (A for Australia!) about a month ago without a controller, which I ordered online and it showed up a couple of days ago. It's a beautiful set, but I have noticed there is some visible interference or sort of subtle movement over the top of the display. I can't quite articulate it, but I'll take some photos when I wake up.

I have caps on the BNC output plugs, tried component and RGB, multiple systems, swapping the input cards into different slots, and it all suffers from the same issue.

It's frustrating because it's small problem, but it's consistently there. Rarely after 30 minutes or so it will "warm up" and the interference (for lack of a better word) will be reduced or almost gone. Does anyone have any idea what the issue could be? I'm preparing to take it to a Sony Broadcast technician next week otherwise.

>> No.2782125

>>2782115
>minor
Man just stop. 480i is horrid.

>> No.2782129

>>2782125
I never denied that. Interlacing is indeed horrid. But that is because of flicker and combing artifacts, not because of blur.

>> No.2782130

>>2782129
I notice blur and 480i was one of the main reasons I stopped console gaming in 6th gen.

>> No.2782131
File: 3.74 MB, 4608x3456, ypbpr or rgb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2782131

>>2782102
The fact is you shouldn't have to buy a TV and then buy another piece of expensive-ass equipment because the TV manufacturer couldn't do it's job right.
How's that fact for you? Now why don't you go back to /v/ and fuck off of /vr/?

>You keep mentioning progressive. Only 1 mainstream console can even use a PC CRT monitor without a transcoder or line doubler.
1) Gamecube with a mod to the component cable (jumping two pins) can output VGA.
2) xbox 360
I'm sorry, I believe that is 2. Or is the Gamecube not mainstream enough?
Yes, I know you're going to reply that the gamecube component cable costs as much as a scaler. That is correct. However, you wanted VGA on mainstream consoles, I gave you VGA on mainstream consoles. You ignore the fact that YPbPr can do progressive scan as well.

If you know how to do voltage multiplication with transistors you can make a YPbPr to RGB converter for under $30 without any actual digital processing taking place.

Some quick googling shows me that (yes, with essentailly instantaneous transcoding, so before you think you're clever and that I ignored your post, I am aware you said 'without transcoding') YPbPr can be converted to RGBHV (VGA) for about $12 with a LMH1251 IC.

Additionally, my CRT that you seem to hate so much can handle YPbPr AND RGB. So for me it's a non-issue.

>> No.2782132

>>2782114
Sort of. It's hard to explain without trying it yourself. I think it moves them all, but effects the blue gun more than the red and green ones for whatever reason.

>> No.2782135

>>2782131
A good TV will handle 480p no problem. It's 480i and 240p that's an issue.

>1) Gamecube with a mod to the component cable (jumping two pins) can output VGA.
>mod
No
2) xbox 360
Never played any 7th gen consoles. I guess there is a vga cable for it.

I was talking about DC as the 1 console.

>Additionally, my CRT that you seem to hate so much can handle YPbPr AND RGB. So for me it's a non-issue.
I don't hate CRTs. I just understand their limitations.

>> No.2782141

>>2782130
combing != blur, even if it might look like it to an untrained eye.

>> No.2782142

>>2782135
>nuu the mods are evil
TIL bridging two pins is beyond the mental capacity of people who use LCD's

>> No.2782143

>>2782142
You can mod a lot of consoles to use vga. That wasn't my point.

>> No.2782152

>>2782143
You don't mod the console. You mod the cable :)

If your point is that you are buying $200 scalers because you can't bridge a wire, then I understand 'the point' that you are claiming I was missing.

>> No.2782156

>>2782152
>If your point is that you are buying $200 scalers because you can't bridge a wire, then I understand 'the point' that you are claiming I was missing.
Closer to $300. Wouldn't do anything for Gamecube though. Any good LCD will handle 480p as well since good LCDs will have an excellent scaling engine for that.

>> No.2782195

>>2782156
only excellent if your height is an integer multiple of 480.

>> No.2782202

>>2782129
>Interlacing is indeed horrid.
This always seem to be rather a personal preference.
It does look good to me unless it was originally non-interlaced, or the CRT isn't properly adjusted.

>>2782131
I have my experience with video amplifier and RGB->YUV circuits.
>If you know how to do voltage multiplication with transistors you can make a YPbPr to RGB converter
A few transistors always make a lousy video amplifier, no matter how high the transition frequency is because it's more important to keep the phase unchanged than being able to amplify 250Mhz signals.
>for under $30 without any actual digital processing taking place.
I recently revised my homemade adapter to have a better RGB preamplifier stage based on the same high quality OpAmps which do the the transcoding instead of push-pull transistor circuits, so there is a total 6x AD810 now used where each did cost me about 4,30€, now today these cost 5,25€ each.

>YPbPr can be converted to RGBHV (VGA) for about $12 with a LMH1251 IC.
Be careful about the DC bias, YPbPr is AC coupled by default and the RGB of VGA has a fixed black level of 0V.
A clamp (DC restoration) will be needed to get this working.

>>2782143
>You can mod a lot of consoles to use vga
This is the most stupid thing I heard in this month.
Which consoles aside from N64 and Dreamcast (and expandable Amigas) can be modded to output 31khz RGBHV?
What is true is that plenty of consoles can be modded to output 15khz RGB, which can be of course line doubled by the means of an external device to produce 31khz which has absolutely nothing to do with console modding.

>>2782156
>excellent scaling
This works well with video showing real life people or 3D graphics but cartoons and 2D graphics don't look great at all.

>> No.2782221

>>2782202
>all transistors are exactly the same and none have better properties for this kind of work

>> No.2782227

>>2782202
Thanks for the tips about the clamp.

>> No.2782252

>>2782221
Yeah, you seem to know which transistors are good and which aren't.
Suggest me some along with the circuits which can keep the errors of phase under 0.04° and gain under 0.02% till 30Mhz.
Also bipolar transistors are current based while OpAmps are voltage based with an input resistance of several megaohms.

>>2782227
Yes, the clamp I implemented is based on the CMOS 4053 and 100nF capacitors which shorts the signal after the capacitor to ground during the time when the Sync signal is low.

>> No.2782401

>>2782252
If you have specifications that specific, I'd recommend just using a ADC, a CPLD to do the multiplication, and a DAC to create analog signals again, because I don't have a clue how you can expect less than 0.04°.

>> No.2782404

>>2781549

A 14" PVM is perfect for the occasional retro gaming in your city apartment. 20"+ is ridiculous unless you have a house and dedicated room for this shit.

>> No.2782463

>>2782404
I can't imagine living in a place that only has enough room for a shoebox. In fact, I'm going to call it straight up impossible to not have room for a 20" monitor. I put my 20" on top of my dresser.

>> No.2782475

>>2782202
>This works well with video showing real life people or 3D graphics but cartoons and 2D graphics don't look great at all.

Test suites and realworld examples show otherwise. At least for Sony TVs.

>> No.2782495

>>2782463

Imagine having the style taste to put a 20" PVM on top of your dresser.

>> No.2782535

>>2782401
It took me while to reclaim my sides after reading your post.
None of these 3 components you mentioned can be considered as a transistor but they do consist of many many transistors along with some passive components and so do OpAmps.
>ADC
Getting one in a solderable package that is fast enough to digitize a analogue video isn't easy and a general purpose ADC isn't fast enough to do this.
Also video ADCs require a clock signal which should be in phase with the Hsync or else pixels can get jittery, it also needs at least to be twice as high as the wanted frequency (Shannon theorem).
Also a lowpass filter to avoid aliasing (sampling of HF noise) should be used as well.
>CPLD to do the multiplication
With integer numbers which causes a small loss of color depth and they need to be programmed (like via JTAG), also dealing with the PC software to create a netlist can be another problem.
That is a really good idea anon.
Why not add fast sequential memory which can store a whole scanline and read it out twice as fast for the purpose of line doubling?
>DAC
This is indeed the spirit.
Making one of a R2R ladder isn't hard but can problematic to implement as resistors can be off their rated value.
Using a monolithic DAC will work better but usually needs a buffer amp to drive a 75 ohms input.
>I don't have a clue how you can expect less than 0.04°.
I was curious if you have any clue how to accomplish this aside from using OpAmps designed for video signals and these have differential inputs to make the transcoding as simple as summing the RGB signals together in a specific way so that the OpAmps will end up outputting YUV.

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with that suggestion, I originally asked if you know transistors along with some circuits that can beat the performance of "expensive" video OpAmps which usually advertise these ultra low phase and gain error numbers.

>>2782475
For me, Sony stopped being very good since the mid 90s.

>> No.2782538

>>2782535
>For me, Sony stopped being very good since the mid 90s.
Well they certainly got more expensive but their good shit is the best in their category or very competitive.

>> No.2782546

>>2782495
I spend 90% of my time at home in my bedroom.

Have a 25in PVM ontop of a typical 3 drawer Walmart dresser.

Currently have a 20in PVM on one of my side by side, cheapo Ikea sliding keyboard tray computer desks. The 20 feels a bit big but its managable, the 14 incher I had there was perfect.

>> No.2782584

>>2782546

Imagine spending 90% of your time at home in a bedroom.

Imagine having a Walmart dresser.

>> No.2782586
File: 96 KB, 1024x764, f1ce7890.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2782586

>> No.2782613

>>2782586
Holy shit I had one of those. Shit was dope.

>> No.2782615

>>2782584
Meh, live with roommates that arent friends. Only to keep rent cheap.

Its better than living with your parents. I got the walmart dresser in undergrad and it just works. Its for function not fashion. I'll worry about style when I'm in a place I consider a long term "home"

>> No.2782624

>>2782586

I approve of the GX as a retro station. Shit input options I imagine, but it's got style.

>> No.2782637

>>2782120
Where'd you get it? Also an Australian looking for a BVM.

>> No.2782652

>>2782586
Impressive.

+1 for the Japanese Saturn.

>> No.2782691

>Finally get some cash, decide to get a cheap little CRT to tide me over until I can get the space for a nice large one
>Google up some pawn shops and thrift stores
>Call
>"We don't accept/buy those anymore, and we have none in stock."
>Go on ebay/amazon
>$100+ or Local Pick-up Only(2000 miles away)
>Go on craigslist
>See ONE single CRT being advertised
>Call
>"Busy now, call back at X:00PM"
>Call back at X:00PM
>They disconnect while ringing
>Call again
>Phone is off now

So, where the fuck do I FIND all these free CRT's everyone talks about?

>> No.2782701

>>2782691
Yeah most people seriously just throw them out now rather than give them to people who want them. Maybe try calling up a CRT recycling place or something. But I agree, it's harder to find CRTs now not because nobody has them, but rather they'd throw them out before they bothered putting up a listing.

>> No.2782703

>>2782691
You can't be in the US if this is your situation. Where are you located?

>> No.2783000

>>2782703
California USA.

On the plus side, an hour after I posted that some guy posted an ad for his 32inch Sanyo w/remote for $20, which isn't too bad. I ended up going with that. Has composite and s-video hookups which was what I was looking for.

Sadly though, it seems >>2782701 is right, the era of the free CRT has come to an end. Better grab CRT's now while they can still be found.

>> No.2783024

>>2782701
Its easier that way. Even though I am a CRTfag, I threw away a 13 toshiba crt. I woulda tried harder to give it away but it was RF only so I didn't really care.

I also have a 13 inch Dynex CRT with composite and mono audio only that I need to get rid of. I'm going to TRY not to throw it out but it really isnt quality I doubt anyone would want it and my local thrift store just closed.

>> No.2783051

>>2782586
I seriously disliked this thing when it was new, but as a period piece it's quite charming now.

>> No.2783115

>>2782691
I got my current CRT from a relative, however without a doubt i see the most CRT's on garbage day, just outside peoples houses. Seriously, if you want a different CRT take a drive around your neighborhood next garbage day and see what comes up.

>> No.2783149
File: 930 KB, 3280x2460, 102_0679.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783149

>>2782586
It'd be really nice if it had S-Video. Still, composite doesn't look too bad on it.

>> No.2783172

>>2783024
I would have taken in either one of those for top-loader NES or SMS2 (or 2600, but I don't have one anymore). For RF you don't exactly want a large display blowing up every artifact anyway, just something nice and comfy.

>>2783149
>'90s Korean brand TV
>S-video

>> No.2783201

>>2783149
Sorry but composhite looks horrible on everything. PVMs its slightly tolerable but not really.

>> No.2783204

Go to ANY Goodwill or Value Village and you'll find CRTs. Likely a nice 27" Trinitron, too, if you look for a month or so. They're still widely available.

>> No.2783217

>>2783201
In your mind, what makes you think PVMs are any better displaying composite?

No hints from anyone else please. I want this one individual's insight.

>> No.2783229
File: 3.12 MB, 3888x2592, IMG_0540.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783229

>>2783204
Found this one the other day NIB
Broke its cherry on my DOSBOX machine
I haven't had a new CRT in like 15 years now

>> No.2783234
File: 2.76 MB, 3888x2592, IMG_0546.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783234

Only 1024x768 max, but XGA's the limit for the vast majority of DOS titles
Which one should I play?

>> No.2783245
File: 1.72 MB, 2592x3888, IMG_0547.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783245

Here's the box
Still impressed Goodwill had it for lmaotenbux, styrofoam and everything
I had to snap the stand on the bottom too

>> No.2783257

>>2783217
Higher image resolution mostly. My PVMs have 800 TV lines as opposed to most consumer CRTs 400 or so.

>> No.2783267

>>2773698
>Buy The Immortal on Genesis for friend in box with manual.
>Come to find out it doesn't even work
Worst fucking experience ever, I felt like an ass when he told me that.

>> No.2783274

>>2783229
>>2783245
I miss unboxing and setting up nice new CRT monitors and desktops for the employees at my old job. Positioning them, calibrating them for geometry and color and also for the user's preferred resolution/DPI settings based on their work and eyesight requirements, recommending chair replacements or foot rests or monitor stands to supervisors based on the ergonomic needs of the users (height and position relative to screen desk and screen height) and being treated like a hero for it.

Last NIB CRT purchase for me was in 2008. Watching hockey on that TV right now.

>>2783257
The expected response, thanks. It explains your opinion.

>> No.2783285

>>2783274
Thanks for not telling me how I'm wrong or helping me to learn either. Nope instead you're just going to be a conceited cunt who thinks he knows everything. I have used composite on both my consumer trinitron and my PVM and I can say without doubt it looks a lot better on the PVM.

>> No.2783302

>>2783285
I don't see a question in there, so you're welcome.

>> No.2783304

>>2783302
>>2783274
>>2783217
lol what a nigger

>> No.2783309
File: 770 KB, 245x237, that&#039;s me.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783309

>>2783304

>> No.2783310

>>2783309
that would make you the niggest

>> No.2783315

>>2783310
Anything worth doing is worth doing right!

>> No.2783327

>>2783000
Indiana, USA. Got a free PVM-20L5 earlier this year. The era is not over (though places like goodwill not accepting them is certainly not good). Just gotta ask the right people.

Check electronics recyclers too.

>> No.2783340

>>2783000
You in SoCal? I'm the anon who nicked that NIB CRT here
>>2783229
There are certainly still plenty of CRTs available, pawn shops are a terrible choice but thrift stores and Craigslist still have them by the dozens

>> No.2783351

>>2783327
>free pvm
how the fuck

>> No.2783372

>>2783351
It happens

>> No.2783375

>>2782615
Good luck holding onto your pvm's for the next 15 years

>> No.2783384

>>2780203
If anyone cares I finished this and it works

>> No.2783459

>>2783384
nice to hear it can be RGB modded.
does it save you any money compared with other VGA -> 15khz solutions, compared with professional scan converters for instance.

>> No.2783462

>>2783217
They usually have good comb filters, or at least so it says on the tin.

>> No.2783518

>>2783459
I don't know. Soft 15hz wasn't going to work on anything I had and I'm new to this stuff anyway. Neither the converter nor the ingredients for the cables I made were expensive.

>> No.2783531

>>2783518
Does it do 240p, though?
Even if it doesn't it could be pretty useful for watching anime on my CRT's, I suppose.

>> No.2783534
File: 1.04 MB, 600x702, 1402892354158.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783534

>>2783384
explain again what the hell you were doing with this and what your goal was
like, all the hardware involved and what you were even trying to display

>> No.2783543

Just picked up a small TV. Tried it out with my PS1 and I noticed a lot of waviness on stuff like text.

Now. I think it's down to either the TV, the cables, or due to PAL/NTCS differences.

Which one do you think is most likely?

>> No.2783547

>>2783543
Oh. I should clarify I'm not talking about the usual PS1 model waviness . I mean actual 2d stuff, not anything due to the rendering in game.

>> No.2783550

>>2783547
is it dot crawl?

>> No.2783557

>>2783550
Yeah. I think it might be looking at google images. But it's also like part of the text is blinking almost.

It's hard to notice on the 3d graphics and in pre-rendered video.

>> No.2783560

>>2783557
strong contrast between light and dark you get crawling lines and blinking, sounds like dot crawl
it's due to composite video

>> No.2783563

>>2783557
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tAtCmvLCn0
go 3 minutes into this vid

>> No.2783565

>>2783462
>comb filters
Half credit for the mention, as this is where the other guy tripped.

But the part you got wrong is that some PVMs are known to have very simple comb filters, with some models lacking a comb filter altogether. Remember what BVMs and PVMs were made for: accurate reproduction of the source signal for production/mastering/broadcast purposes. They were not end user/consumer displays that were designed to beautify and overprocess the signal for maximum joy. It's that simplicity and accuracy to the source material that makes them great for games.

>> No.2783570

>>2783560
I see. Is there anything to be done?

>>2783563
Yeah. That's it. Apart from the weird flickering I also get.

>> No.2783573

>>2783570
S-video reduces it, I think component video almost completely eliminates it
Better TV and different console can also help because more sophisticated, higher-quality circuitry can improve the encoding and separation of the chroma and luma channels.

>> No.2783578

>>2783573
A sophisticated comb filter reduces dot crawl. The slower the comb filter, the better the picture.

S-video eliminates it.

>> No.2783581

>>2783573
You think a ps1 to s-video plugged into a s-video to scart would help? I seems like it might go a bit wonky with all the conversion.

>> No.2783584

>>2783581
going from S-video cable to SCART probably won't change the signal much if at all

>> No.2783586

>>2783581
What's the best signal that little TV can take? RGB, component, S-video, or composite?

If you don't know, post the model number of the TV.

>> No.2783593

>>2783584
Yeah. That's what I was thinking.

>>2783586
"Sharp 37am-23s".

Sorry for being a bit of a noob here. Literally took it up from the "working tech we don't want so grab if you want" section a waste disposal site today.

>> No.2783607
File: 33 KB, 600x600, s-l1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783607

>>2783593
Kinda forgot about the component part when researching S-video. Think one of these would work?

>> No.2783608

>>2783565
Interesting. I have one PVM (14-L2) where I have the option between NTSC and NTSC comb for NTSC signals. Generally I prefer without, but I get more sharpness with, so it depends on the game. With I tend to get *more* dot crawl, though. Also it sort of trips and does wierd stuff for some 240p signals, it really seems to perform better on regular old 480i signals.

>> No.2783616

>>2783593
>Literally took it up from the "working tech we don't want so grab if you want" section a waste disposal site today.
Your waste disposal site has an area where they allow you to grab stuff? That's neat, here you have to do it quickly when nobody's looking... Many times the electronics stuff will even be indoors in a small hut so it's even more difficult to grab something.

>> No.2783618

>>2783581
>>2783584
What are you trying to do? Are you trying to feed the S-Video signal through a SCART connector into a TV that will take S-Video in the SCART socket? (remember that SCART can do all three of composite, s-video and RGB)

>> No.2783621

>>2783616
Yeah. Not been there in a while but I used to do the shady quick grab(their electronics section was always out in the open). But now they put a up sign saying you could take stuff from it.

Funnily enough I was there dumping one of my really old CRT's that stopped working.

>>2783618
Yeah sorry. Didn't know the PS1 could do RGB. So I thought S-video or composite was the only choice. I'm thinking something like >>2783607 might be the most elegant solution. And it's only a few bucks so even if it doesn't work it's alright.

>> No.2783623

>>2783616
What country do you live in? Angola?

>> No.2783624

>>2783593
User manual for that TV doesn't specify what signals it can take on the SCART input but based on the type of TV it is, I wouldn't expect that it does anything better than composite. Using a PS1 S-video cable with SCART adapter probably wouldn't produce any image on it.

Can't improve the image on the display side without modding the TV, I'm afraid. All you can do is try to improve the quality of the source signal somehow (shielded cable, amplify the signal if it's weak, etc).

>>2783608
Yeah, basic comb filters work by analyzing adjacent horizontal lines so you can see where problems could arise with common 240p.

>>2783618
He gave the TV model number. It's a small low-end TV with one composite/mono audio input on the front and one SCART input on the back. Chances are good it only takes composite on the SCART, but they could have done something irrational and built it to take something nicer.

>> No.2783629

>>2783581
>conversion
Putting the luminance signal on the composite input and chrominance signal on the red input has nothing to do with converting, it depends if the TV can support it.

>>2783618
>(remember that SCART can do all three of composite, s-video and RGB)
No, either Composite+RGB or Composite+S-Video.
If anons TV has only one SCART socket then it's very likely that it can take only RGB.
On a TV with 2 SCART socket the 2nd one can do S-Video but it must be enabled manually.

>> No.2783630

>>2783623
Most countries I know of consider trash to be the property of the trasher/state/whatever so when it's trashed and you're dumpster diving you're technically stealing...
Hasn't stopped me to pick some stuff up, when I go throw stuff away.

>> No.2783631

>>2783629
I missed the discussion of what kind of TV it was. But yeah, S-Video support is not likely on a single SCART socket TV.

>> No.2783632

>>2783621
Yeah, RGB seems like the most likely choice. Unless you're really unlucky and it doesn't do RGB at all, in which case you will get composite via SCART in any case.

>> No.2783634

>>2783629
Not all single-SCART TVs have the RGB wired internally, especially this kind of tiny cheapy.

>> No.2783645

>>2783634
all single scart have RGB by default. S-video over scart was introduced later and never on single or primary scart plug

>> No.2783648

>>2783645
I'm not saying the SCART is wired for S-video, I'm saying it could be wired for composite and only composite. I was told that non-European manufacturers did this sometimes and always held it as true for low-end small TVs.

>> No.2783649

>>2783648
if it was sold on euro market then it supports RGB, no matter the origin. All tvs I ever encoutered, big, small, old, recent, brand, clone, literaly all that had scart RGB.

>> No.2783657

>>2783649
I hope it applies in anon's sake. At least it's true he'd get composite no matter what, so the cable wouldn't be a waste. In fact I wonder if that's where the idea that every display with SCART supports RGB, since the presence of a composite line as a failsafe might obscure the absence of RGB.

>> No.2783661

>>2783657
scart was made for teletext overlaying. And that needs RGB. Switch between composite and RGB was made by applying voltage on pin 16.

>> No.2783663

>>2783661
Does this TV even have teletext/CC at all? I didn't see anything in the user manual.

>> No.2783665

>>2783663
it was made to connect a teletext decoder. Sure enough teletext became integrated but then scart was used for decoder for satellite and paying tv channels. Using it for consoles was another way.

>> No.2783667

>>2783649
It's a bit more complicated than that. All TV sets should have *at least* one SCART RGB input. TV with multiple SCART inputs might only have the first one wired for RGB (usually, it's written down near it on the plastic, or it's colored blue), the others being composite-only to save a few bucks.

>> No.2783678

Small TV guy here. I don't know if it matters but it works fine with my cable box. Not sure what input it uses though since it just says "SCART".

>> No.2783694
File: 6 KB, 488x278, psx.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783694

>>2783678
You might run into another problem actually : some cables are correctly wired for RGB but they omit a vital thing, pin 16 isn't wired (even moreso with recent cables). If pin 16 isn't fed 1-3v, the tv will just display whatever is running on pin20 usually composite video.

easy to repair, but kinda annoying that some cables aren't wired correctly out of the box...

>> No.2783698

>>2783694
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.

>> No.2783718

>>2783694
I had to fix a SNES cable like that once.

>> No.2783886
File: 439 KB, 1920x1200, b2a89e5282b8ba4771a4f1a5666cfa6e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783886

Does the LM1881 sync-cleaner chip accept RGsB/30khz signals? Can't find any straight answers on google and I'm trying to establish whether or not this set up will work:

PS2 [480p] > Sync Strike (LM1881) > Extron interface > Emotia downscaler [240p] > VGA to BNC breakout cable (+sync combiner) > RGB monitor

Side note: Trying to get RGBHV from a PS2 without perilous console mods is such a bitch.

>> No.2783902
File: 189 KB, 900x541, rca.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2783902

>>2783531
I'm not sure if it matters since I'm only emulating at this stage and it upscales the picture cleanly anyway. It certainly looks pretty good and clean to me. Better in every way than the composite output from it, especially since my TV doesn't have an NTSC board installed on it or something and PAL runs at 50hz. Long story short that means everything would either judder or have massive amounts of screen tearing. The res is set to 800x600 on my laptop.

>>2783534
It changes a VGA signal from a PC to a CGA signal suitable for a TV. The cables plugged into the board here are intended to be used in an arcade cabinet. I just cut off the other end and attached some cables to it and some RCA plugs. In hind sight I guess I could have just attached the plugs to the thin cables. The white plug is being used for red because the red plug I got is faulty or something.

>> No.2783924

>>2783886
>Does the LM1881 sync-cleaner chip accept RGsB/30khz signals?
Looks like you're too stupid to read.
If you open the datasheet then you can find:
>Horizontal Scan Rates to 150 kHz
on the first page.
What you may need to do is to change Rset (resistor from pin 6 to ground) from 680Kohm to higher value between 1-2Mohm.

also:
>LM1881
>sync-cleaner
This is the most stupid thing I heard about this IC.
The Vsync is irregular delayed on interlaced signals, it also has it's problems with certain /vr/ systems unless a preamplifier is used.
A few comparators like LM339 along with some filters, transistors, NE555 timers and logic gates will can do a much better job of extracting a clean Csync of an non-ideal composite signal than a LM1881, it's only advantages are the minimalistic circuit and the odd/even output (to overlay graphics on a interlaced signal).

>> No.2784070
File: 109 KB, 800x800, Untitled.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2784070

>>2783924
Thank you.
Yes, I'm illiterate when it comes to this stuff; a couple weeks ago I didn't even know what "RGB" meant so I hope you can forgive my ignorance somewhat.

>What you may need to do is to change Rset (resistor from pin 6 to ground) from 680Kohm to higher value between 1-2Mohm.
So I should unsolder the resistor circled here and replace it with a 1 MΩ one? Would the replacement need to be surface-mount, or would an axial-lead resistor work fine?

Also I can sort of understand the limitations you mentioned regarding the 1881; the only reason I'm really considering a Sync Strike is because I've found nothing else for sale that will let me go from RGsB to RGBHV with a 480p signal. I think Extron interfaces might also do that, but I recall someone saying they need clean sync so I'd need a stripper anyway.

>> No.2784156

>>2783630

They only do this so assholes don't come by every day and use the place as a scrap metal source.

You'll be fine grabbing an old CRT 98% of the time. Ask the the employees, even.

>> No.2784171

I picked up a PVM-14L5 last year ($100, 480p, ). Should I sell my previous (worse) PVM-14 for a meme price to a smasher on CL, or save it in a closet for the CRT apocalypse?

>> No.2784195

>>2783902
Why do you even want CGA? Why not composite?

>> No.2784203

>>2784195
because composite looks like you stretched cling wrap across the screen?

>> No.2784393

Serious question for you videophiles

OK. CRT just makes sense for retro. Duh. Of course. But most of us also have an HDTV of some sort in our house for some reason or another.

My question is this...
how can I make sure an HDTV doesn't have godawful game ruining latency without expensive trial and error?

Feel free to tell me off if this is too far off topic.

>> No.2784419

>>2784393
The less fancy features it has, the less latency they will have. Stay the fuck away from Smart TVs. Turn off as many features you can and put the TV in a "Game" mode if it has one, which often serves to further remove features and reduce latency.

Basically what you want is something like a 5-year old display with little fancy stuff yet still good picture, or in the best case you'd do like we do with CRTs and get professional equipment. But since that sort of professional EQ is still in active use in the industry it's expensive.

Even with this you'll still have a few tens of ms of latency at best. Also you'll probably want a scaler like the Framemeister which will add latency (but sometimes it might reduce total latency since the TV doesn't have to do any scaling, and the TV scaler might be slower. Or at least I've heard people claim this.)

>> No.2784427

>>2784393
First, all LCD screens have a bad response time compared to CRT, plasma, OLED, etc. The latter are all effectively instantaneous compared to LCD. It's a physical limitation.

Second, on digital displays which only have one native resolution, any signal not at that resolution must be scaled to fill the whole screen. That process adds delay.

Third, digital image processing adds even more delay.

These all compound each other. Use a non-LCD, find a way to scale the image as quickly as possible (probably using an outboard scaler - the "expensive" part you were avoiding), and turn off any image processing you can (which can include putting the TV into a "game mode" if available)

>> No.2784449
File: 77 KB, 562x960, 12212236_10207074296470590_1849111884_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2784449

Radioshack sells probably the best analog stuff I've seen besides online and for pretty cheap.

>> No.2784479

>>2784449

Bigger Goodwills usually have a really good cable selection... lots of Component and S-Video cables are being donated thanks to HDMI. Kind of fun to find the crazy braided, gold cables that are the perfect length for your system. I'm sure the the quality is the same as these black rubber Radio Shack cables, but the physical feel and look of the cables are much nicer.

>> No.2784485

>>2784479
I recently found some crazy high quality component cables with audio too there, about as thick as that S-video cable I posted up there. They're like 8 feet long and were a dollar per piece. They were really wide because each part of the component and audio was a different cable glued together. It's the most crazy thing I've ever seen. I ripped the audio leads off them and used them for my hi-fi system.

>> No.2784513
File: 1002 KB, 2656x1494, 20151108_153329.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2784513

>>2784485
Here they are

>> No.2784532

>>2783351
>How the fuck?
Just gotta talk to the right people.
I thought about it logically.
PVM's and BVM's are used by people in broadcasting, right? So maybe my PBS station had some. They did.

>> No.2784547

>>2784171
save in closet or let another anon have it.

Destroy it and I will hunt you down and kill you.

>> No.2784592

>>2784419
>>2784427

Thanks guys.
I'm still learning the finer points of all the technical image stuff. Will a higher refresh rate play into the equation, or can other shitty features undermine a fast screen? Or is that not even how this works?

I had a plasma that I was very happy with til it mysteriously gave up after about 3½ years. I'm hoping beyond hope it's just a popped cap... based on nothing other than wanting it to not be worse. I still haven't worked up the guts to look inside it, after about a month.

>> No.2784604
File: 38 KB, 892x521, ps2vga7404hw3.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2784604

>>2782095
Not sure if it will help, friend, but I read "PS2" and "VGA" and it reminded me I had this image.

Hope it does something, rather than nothing, for you.

>> No.2784608

Anyone care to explain to me why my pvm is displaying my image every so slightly crooked. I only noticed because a border in game thinned out toward the left and had too much space above. If I hit 16:9 it fixes the issue also fixes if I hit under scan. Any suggestions? Don't say vhold already tried it and it just sends my picture flying after a certain point

>> No.2784630

>>2784608
you mean it's rotated?
Not sure if there's a rotation feature in the service menus. If not you'll have to open it up and turn the deflection yoke or forget it. Since the yoke can cause so many problems I recommend forgetting it.

>> No.2784645

>>2784630
Yea it's slanted down to the left. I'm thinking its a rotation problem. It's really bugging me, I may do some more research into the deflection yoke because I can't stand the slant!

>> No.2784664

https://youtu.be/4i7Dn97Wbps

Now this is how it was meant to be played

>> No.2784705

>>2784664
Looks comfy as hell. Dig that sound system.

>> No.2784789

>>2784645
You'll need to glue the yoke back down after you're done, and you'll need to make certain that you have color purity across the entire screen. Otherwise, red regions could appear blue around the corners and other nasty things can happen.

>> No.2784945

When a CRT draws a 240p image, are there 240 lines total or 240 lines + 240 scanlines?

>> No.2784946

>>2784789
Did some research I think I can fix it via the service menu

>> No.2785071

>>2784945
240 lines = 240 scanlines
so yes, 240 lines and 240 scanlines.

The scanlines are NOT the black areas in between. They are the area painted by the electron beam.

>> No.2785075

>>2785071
>>2784945
By 240 lines and 240 scanlines, btw, I mean no, you do not add the two. There is a total of 240.

>> No.2785104

>>2785071
>>2785075
Thanks for clearing that up.
I wasn't sure, and Google is often unhelpful unless you know precisely how to phrase questions like that.

>> No.2785120

>>2785104
a scanline is a line drawn by the beam. However, because at 240p resolution the lines get more spaced appart and at the same location, typical black lines become apparent and those are often refered as scanlines.
240p is sometimes referred as double strike due to the way the beam always illuminates the same lines.

>> No.2785125

>>2785120
Cheers.
>However, because at 240p resolution the lines get more spaced appart and at the same location, typical black lines become apparent and those are often refered as scanlines.
Ah, so that'd be why people say higher TVL monitors have stronger "scanlines".

>> No.2785147

>>2785125
high TVL allows more details to be drawn on a single line, to do this you need a narrower beam and smaller phosphors. This results in less bleeding and blooming which indeed results in thicker black lines.

>> No.2785284

>>2783902
where can you find the pinouts for that board?

>> No.2785290

>>2784156
In personal experience, I've found that they're sticklers for the rules far too often...

>> No.2785421

>>2784449
Radio Shack's analog cables were an even better deal about 10-12 years ago, when they were assembled in the USA using broadcast-grade wire with ferrite chokes and nice connectors. I bought a lot of these back then.

>>2784485
>>2784513
I know these very well. I can tell you from my many experiences with them that the cinch on the plugs can get very loose sometimes, but they're nice enough cables.

>> No.2785652

Page 9, 33 past bump limit, blah blah blah

New Thread
>>2785646
>>2785646

>> No.2785685

>>2783924
>overlaying graphics
this interests me. i've been looking for overlaying genlocks, but they're expensive as all hell. is it reasonable to try to build something based around this?