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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 1.16 MB, 3280x2460, 100_8545.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2484040 No.2484040 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread - >>2437383

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

These past few threads have been great, keep it up!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright!
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

>> No.2484049

Anyone have a Sony Trinitron KV-32fS100. If so could you post your picture settings

>> No.2484131

This guy again,
>>2483805

What video card, drivers, and transcoder would you recommend for 15khz 240p output from a PC?

>> No.2484167
File: 2.44 MB, 640x480, Help.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2484167

This is what happens when my FW900 boots up cold. Sometimes it's far worse than this, even. Please help me save her. :(

>> No.2484183

>>2484167
>boots up cold.
You mean the problem goes away after some time?
If yes then it's very likely that some big capacitor is dead, or better said it only holds it's charge when it got warm enough.
This seems to be caused by some voltage regulator, I guess it's +B.

>> No.2484196

>>2484183

Yes, after about 30 seconds it stabilizes, and the monitor is perfectly functional after that.

How feasible would it be to replace the capacitor, if that is indeed the problem?

>> No.2484223

>>2484167
working as intended

>> No.2484227

>>2484196
>How feasible would it be to replace the capacitor
The first thing to do is to find out which one, and that's not easy to accomplish without the right tools.
If you would have an can of freeze spray (made for troubleshooting electronics) then the faulty capacitor could be found easily.
This simply works spraying a capacitor (or other components) and making it cold and look out if the screen starts to flicker, if it does then warm it up with an hairdryer and see if it suddenly stops.
That's how I would do it.
>if that is indeed the problem?
I'm about 70% sure that it is.
If not then it could be either dry solder joints, bad resistor or possibly wrong voltage adjustment.

>> No.2484235

>>2484227

Something tells me there aren't any CRT repair shops open any more.

>> No.2484283

Hi guys something I read said that it was common for pvms and bvms when tated to have discolouration on the top left of the screen. is there anyway you can fix this and does anyone else have this problem?

>> No.2484302

>>2484070
>>black PCB in NES cart
>Is that you, Batsly Adams or Heosphoros?
no, sorry.

And the black PCB is an everdrive N8.

>> No.2484316

>>2484235
they exist, but not very common in the US.

>>2484167
Hi, I'm the guy who responded about two weeks later :P

I think a capacitor is a likely culprit. Also, does it make any strange noises?

And if you do open it up, for god's sake discharge the tube before messing around. short the capacitor leads with something safe, too.

I expect it will be on the controller board behind the tube, attached or near the blue gun. If you can't tell which is the blue gun, I'd still look on the controller board.

If you decide you can't do it, I'd love to take a shot :)

I'll say if I think of anything else later. But I do want to know if it makes strange sounds when this happens.

>> No.2484317

>>2484283
1) why are you rotating?
2) probably not. it's gravity pulling on the aperture grille wires.
Unless you have the skill and equipment to crack open the tube, add more dampening wires, and make a new tube and phosphor paint for it. :P

>> No.2484321

>>2484316
also, if it does make a clicking sound or something, or that buzzing noise (repeatedly instead of just once for degaussing), it could be a bad relay trying to repeatedly degauss it or something.

>> No.2484328

>>2484196
>>2484316
>>2484321
is this the problem described here (but with red instead of blue)?
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-direct-view-single-tube-crt-displays/1403043-bright-red-flashes-my-crt.html

>> No.2484390

>>2484316

It does make a sound when the flashes happen. It's a faint, high pitched squeal, barely audible. It doesn't seem that alarming, but what do I know?

>>2484328

Seems like it, yeah.

>> No.2484880

Is it normal to have to sit away a bit from the screen on a 27" consumer-grade CRT TV for it to not look like shit? I've been using a 14" PVM, and I sit pretty close to it and it looks great...But I just hooked my consoles into this TV I just got, and they look bad unless I sit away from it quite a bit. I don't know if this is because of the switch from PVM to normal TV or because of the larger screen size.

>> No.2484881

>>2484880

I should add that it's a Toshiba "flat screen" CRT manufactured in 2005, in case that makes a difference.

>> No.2484964

>>2484880

Also, third thing, even when I'm sitting away from it so it doesn't look bad, it seems to hurt my eyes and make me feel lightheaded. Why is this?

>> No.2485047

>>2484317
In rotating it to play vertical shooters on Saturn? I know alot of people use pvms for this. every Sony monitor I have (5 in total, different models and sizes) has a discoloured area in the top left hand corner when i tate them.

>> No.2485115

>>2484880
>if this is because of the switch from PVM to normal TV or because of the larger screen size
Both. The PVM's are clearer, the consumer set is not designed to be sat next to. I'd say the headaches are coming from something in 480i/576i, but can't be sure...

>> No.2485179

>>2485115
>I'd say the headaches are coming from something in 480i/576i, but can't be sure...

Could it maybe be caused by how I have my color settings set? I have the sharpness set to 0, contrast at 32, and brightness and saturation at 20 (max is 64 for all of these).

>> No.2486991
File: 1.03 MB, 3280x2460, 102_5397.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2486991

Really need to get an actual SCART cable for this at some point. Still the best I've ever seen Genesis games look in person though.

>> No.2487625
File: 3.47 MB, 1407x2500, 20150621_203149.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2487625

was supposed to post this last night but it was over the file size limit and i got lazy

>> No.2487628
File: 3.10 MB, 1125x2000, 20150621_203158.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2487628

>>2487625

>> No.2487634
File: 254 KB, 918x1632, WP_20140607_008.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2487634

>>2484167
This is my dream. My nightmare. I want an FW900 so bad but would never use it for fear of it dying one day.

>>2484283
>>2485047
Do you TATE them while they are on? Did you give them some time off after rotating them? I've only put my PVMs in TATE a few times very briefly. Pic related had purity issues because the yoke needed to be aligned. When I rotated it all the colors were mixed up at first but the purity was strangely fine. After a few minutes it adjusted and over time but the purity started to slowly go out again which led me to believe the yoke was loose. I once put my medical PVM in tate but didn't notice any discoloration in the corners. I'll have to take a closer look next time. I would love to TATE my 20L5 for Saturn SHMUPs but that is big and clumsy and I don't want to drop it.

>> No.2488623

I just bought a Sony BVM-20F1, am I supposed to get a female Scart to BNC cable in order to use the damn screen? Or do I need anything else?

My main systems are PC Engine, Famicom and Super Famicom however I have other consoles.

>> No.2488905

>>2488623
....am I supposed to get a female Scart to BNC cable in order to use the damn screen?
Not if it's too much hassle. Most BVMs make a nice paperweight.

If you can't solder, what else are you going to do?

>> No.2488927

>>2488623
BVMs don't autoterminate like PVMs. So get some 75Ohm terminators for the outputs. If you don't the picture will be much brighter than is should causing the colors to bleed eliminating your scanlines.

>> No.2489060

>>2488905
>>2488927
Do you mean 75Ohm terminators on the cable or 75Ohm terminators on the screen? If it's on the cable, can I purchase it already done somewhere? Because i'm really not comfortable with modifying equipment by myself.

And from what I have read the Sony BVM-20F1 should be fine on it's own.

>> No.2489087

Can anyone throw an estimate of how many lines of resolution this seems to be

>> No.2489091
File: 3.94 MB, 4128x2322, 20150622_212041.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2489091

>>2489087
forgot pic

>> No.2489095

>>2489087
>>2489091
Looks like 4128.

>> No.2489121
File: 13 KB, 295x295, krmit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2489121

>>2489095

>> No.2489125

>>2489087
Wouldn't you have an easier time looking up the display model specs? No info on it online?

>> No.2489181

>>2489060
Nah, it'll will need 75ohm terminators. They go on the output(s) of the last monitor in any chain of monitors, with the last in a chain of one *being* that one.

Like these - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Pieces-BNC-End-Plug-75-Ohm-Terminator-M3637-2-/271865585330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f4c739eb2

So for composite, you need one terminator. For RGBS (here, via Scart adapter) you need 4, one for each line going in. If you go cheap Ebay stuff, buy more than you need as the ones i got 10 of were mostly shitty, and only 4 or 5 would actually fit.

I'm not positive, but i don't think this can be done perfectly with resistors to ground in the cable, as you'll still get the signal reflection from the monitor/load...? Besides, if you had to ask about the scart adapter, then you're not going to want to solder those resistors in either way.

>> No.2489192

>>2489181
>They go on the output(s) of the last monitor in any chain of monitors...
...bearing in mind that most PVMs auto-terminate, and don't need external terminators added.

>> No.2489259

>>2484040
Playing my genesis on a bravio wide screen crt

And let me tell you it looks glorious, the next best thing would be a huge pvm

>> No.2489437

>>2489181
Thanks. I'll try to buy some high-quality ones. Any recommendations? Cost isn't that important since I'm splurging anyway. Though I'd like to keep it under $50 a piece if possible.

>> No.2489726

>>2487634
I have been advised to Tate them while powered down although the fix for this pvm mentions leaving it on http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=12363 . It's just that every time I've tried I get a people/ green mark in the top left instantly or s after a little time.

>> No.2489730
File: 2.30 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150623_185204.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2489730

This fucking game. I get weird busy effects on the screen in this game and some other konami SNES games such as axelay. Anyone else get this? (Not really shown in pic)

>> No.2489892
File: 75 KB, 712x491, idiot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2489892

>> No.2490054

Do all trinitrons support PAL NTSC and SECAM?

What models am I looking at if I want support for my obscure foreign SBCs and clones?

Also on a completely unrelated note, where can I find CGA/EGA monitors? MDA ones are are easy as fuck to find for some reason, but particularly EGA is really rare

>> No.2490096

>>2490054
>Do all trinitrons support PAL NTSC and SECAM?

No, you have to look up for each models.

>> No.2490393

>>2490054
Most pvms support pal and NTSC. Not sure about SECAM. Bvms have specific cards for each region

>> No.2490427

>>2490054
>>2490054
MDA is still popular in industrial control environments where the PC/XT boxes that run them are still happily chugging away. By the time newly produced control machibes had succumbed to the "everything needs a GUI even of only trained individuals will ever use it" rubbish we were already on VGA. EGA/CGA is rarely needed by legacy machines, it's mostly hobbyist projects and arcade machines so it's not as popular as MDA on the resale market. Also it's a lot cheaper to get an off brand MDA monitor, usually they only run like 20-30 dollars where as am actual EGA/CGA monitor will be at least 100

>> No.2490501

Is a viewsonic g90f a good crt? The one I found looks like it has a good picture on it still.

>> No.2490671

Bought an RGB cable for the PS1/2
Hooked it up to the only CRT I have, which is just some old tv I found in a store not long ago.
Although the picture is improved, everything has gone considerably darker. Is it just that this being a cheap consumer television that it won't do RGB correctly?
The cable does work properly as I've tested it on another television.

>> No.2490672

>>2489259
Anyone know where I can buy a Bravio CRT?
Fucking love this shit, apparently back in the day it was like 6k USD.

>> No.2490707
File: 461 KB, 1280x883, Threads Picture BVM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2490707

>> No.2490745

>>2490671
>Although the picture is improved, everything has gone considerably darker. Is it just that this being a cheap consumer television that it won't do RGB correctly?
This is normal, if it's SCART.
Just turn up the contrast and you be fine.

>> No.2490779

>>2490745
Thanks.
Also means I can finally play import games without them being in black and white.

>> No.2490783

Phonedork released a video about the Sony D24E1W a while ago and he says it's one of the best CRT displays you can get namely because the 16:9 widescreen form-factor allows it to play 240p games that are wider than normal unlike other 4:3 monitors. What do you guys think about this? Is the D24E1W better than the 20F1?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffiR4E1id-8

>> No.2490785

>>2490707
I dunno what it is, placebo maybe, but scanlines make aliasing bearable somehow.

>> No.2490823
File: 395 KB, 1280x867, Threads Picture 2 BVM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2490823

>>2490785
I agree. I don't think it's placebo but rather how the game was intended to be played in the first place and most people never had the chance to experience it in the highest quality. That's just my opinion mind you!

>> No.2490856

>>2490783
D24>D20F1≥20E1>20F1

D24 is natively widescreen and gives you the same dimensions for full screen content(4:3) as you would get from any of the other three.
It and the D20F1 are both MultiFormat so you get support for everything from 240p all the way up to 1080i.
D24 has a higher line count for all aspect ratios than the D20F1 (1000 versus 900/700(4:3/16:9)).
20F1 doesn't have the MultiFormat support of the D20, but has the same line count, which is in turn beaten by the 20E1's 1000 TVL.

D24 is probably the best CRT you could ask for if you want widescreen support and/or higher resolution support.
20E1 in turn is the best if you just want SD 4:3 content.

D32 gets an honorable mention for being a larger version of the D24, but they seem to have problems maintaining purity.

>>2490785
>>2490823
To quote myself.
"...leaving it at its native resolution and hopefully with the scanlines that come with that, you break up each line of visual data which results in an optical illusion of there seeming to be more to the picture than what is actually there. To put it in other words, it acts as a form of anti aliasing.
This is especially apparent with games with simpler graphics from say they NES, where as newer more detailed games tend to fare a better. "
"This works very well at normal/reasonable viewing distances, but the effect is lost for the most part on close up shots.
Even more so if you're dealing with a larger screen."

>> No.2490984

>>2490856
Thanks a bunch for explaining the hierarchy of Sony CRTs for me.. I'll try to keep my eye open for any D24s available on Ebay and such, but you wouldn't happen to know of any other sites that might have them for sale? It needs to be a European model as I live in Sweden.

>> No.2491018

Thunderstorm approaching. Unplug your PVMs.

>> No.2491019

>>2490984
I don't know what might be available over there, but aside from finding a company that specializes in resale of these types of things, ebay is probably going to be your best bet.

>It needs to be a European model as I live in Sweden.
The power supplies on these things don't really care what they're fed, be it 110 or 220, and decoders for color systems are all dependent on what cards are installed. You are probably more likely to find an D24E1WE over than considering it coincides with the area, but a E1WU would work just fine.

I will say, if you do find one, it's liable to be incredibly expensive both to purchase and ship.

>> No.2491021
File: 3.88 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150622_195823.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491021

this thread doesn't have enough scanlines

>> No.2491025
File: 1.36 MB, 3280x2460, 102_5351.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491025

>>2491021

>> No.2491029

>>2491019
Seriously? You're telling me I could use a USA model just fine here in Sweden? Without having to use a transformer/converter? I'm no expert but it sounds dubious.

Also, I have €2000 saved up just for a CRT monitor or multiple since I know they're insanely hard to find, especially ones with low usage.

>> No.2491042
File: 282 KB, 1493x846, yep.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491042

>>2491029
Right there in the Power Requirements.

If you look up photos of the rears of both units, they list 100-240v 2.1-0.9A as the expected voltage.

>> No.2491049

>>2491042
Holy shit, I had no idea about that. Then, is there no difference between a US unit and a EU unit? As in, are the innards exactly the same?

It's pretty tempting to order one right now though I suppose I would have to get a new power cable. Do you know if the power cables on Sony BVMs are standard or are they special in any way?

>> No.2491070
File: 69 KB, 1100x1100, HTB12R8EGFXXXXavXVXXq6xXFXXX1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491070

>>2491049
Same three prong cable PCs, monitors and other stuff use.

>> No.2491074

New CRTfag here. What should I look for when searching for a CRT? How do I measure its quality, or what do I compare against? Are there any brands of note?

>> No.2491085

>>2491070
This seems a little too easy. I have almost always had bad luck in life and I can only imagine upon purchasing a CRT from the US and plugging it into an electrical outlet in my home, the CRT bursts into flames. Or something like that.

Either way, I found another interesting CRT from Sony, the BVM-14G5U. I found one in mint condition and since it's so small it should be very easy to ship from USA to Sweden.

>> No.2491093

>>2491085
Smaller, and only 800 lines, but it'd still look amazing.

>since it's so small it should be very easy to ship from USA to Sweden.
It's still 50+lbs/24kg, and CRTs are by no means an easy thing to ship, much less overseas.

RIP in Peace KX-45ED1 anon.

>> No.2491095

>>2491074
from which region are you ? Depending on aswer some things are easier/hard/cheaper/costier to get.

>> No.2491096

>>2491093
Yeah, I figure that I might use the BVM-14G5U as a placeholder until I can find a nice D24 or D20 in near mint condition.

>> No.2491108

>>2491096
Actually, scratch that. I don't think I'm going to import a CRT from the US. The import costs would end up being over half the cost of the CRT itself. Fucking crazy.

I'm either going to have to find one close by in Europe or one in Sweden.

>> No.2491130

Should I get another CRT? I only had my P1130 for a few months and it's already crapped out, it was never used until I bought it though :(.

>> No.2491153

>>2489437
Any ones that actually fit are fine. Ebay should get you some for about $3-$4ea

>>2491074
Read the threads. Sony PVMs are nice.

>> No.2491163

>>2491108
Yeah, and it's not just the cost. Wait till you actually start shipping CRTs and you'll find out how badly everyone treats freight. It'll be badly packed, and even if it's on a pallet will get dropped, kicked, have heavy items packed on top and then left out in the rain. If i bought a $500 BVM from the states i'd expect to pay another thousand in shipping to Aus, and after that to be claiming it all back when the unit arrived in pieces next to it's packing.

>> No.2491174
File: 2.16 MB, 3552x2000, WP_20141028_014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491174

>>2491096
I have a 14G5U and it is a great looking monitor. Shorter than the standard 14" PVMs/BVMs but much longer. The length of the monitor causes it to come in a much bigger box. I swear when I got it I thought they accidentally sent me a 20". Like all BVMs it is important to take note of the cards it comes with. The 14G5U without any extra cards will only support RGB, component, and SDI. If you wanted for some reason composite or svideo you'd have to find the proper card for that. I've tried and only found one for a decent price. The rest were way too expensive until they disappeared from eBay. Those cards for composite and svideo however will only support either NTSC or PAL not both.

Pic related is the only decoder card I ever bought for it. Damn thing was broken.

>> No.2491230

I swear to god it's fucking impossible to find any high-quality CRTs in this god forsaken European country and import charges are fucking crazy high.

I wish I was filthy rich and didn't have to worry about money.

>> No.2491239

>>2491230
dude, sony triniton tv with scart. Usually comes with composite, svideo, RGB in stock form. Virtually for free.

>> No.2491241
File: 3.96 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20150607_233505[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491241

Diamondtron fag here. I've been trying to use my monitor for watching my Cambodian flipbooks, but I'm a bit confused on getting the best out of it for said purpose. I've heard it's recommended to set the refresh rate to 72Hz, since most films and anime run at 24fps, but even then I still get what look like skipped frames and/or jitter. I've been using MPC+MadVR+Reclock and messing with settings, but I can never get something I'm 100% satisfied with. Anyone here have any advice?

>> No.2491248

>>2491130
Hello?

>> No.2491251

>>2491021
Is that a BVM, or a monitor with inserted scanlines?

>> No.2491293

>>2491239
Are you talking about just any regular CRT tv or a high-end professional CRT? Because there are plenty of no-name brand CRTs in this country but practically none that are high-quality such as Sony Trinitron.

I bet I'd have to visit local universities, hospitals and whatnot in order to find one. And even that is a longshot because they're probably already in use or already thrown away.

>> No.2491313

>>2491293
I find highly unlikely that no one in your country bought Sony CRTs (all of them are trini btw).
I bet there's a craigslist equivalent in your country, search everyday, do some phone calls to friends.
And at any rate, starting with a no name crt isn't a bad thing, euro country means scart.

>> No.2491328

>>2491313
Yeah, at the moment I have a shitty no-name CRT TV which looks like shit. But all of my consoles are RGB-capable, either from factory or by modification. Plus I have a shit ton of SCART cables.

We do have our own version of Craigslist and such but I haven't found any high-end CRT displays. It's tempting to just order from someplace like USA or Japan, but that fucking import charge is insane. It might be worth it if I find something like a D24 or D20 with very, very low amount of usage.

>> No.2491342

>>2491328
while waiting for a pvm/bvm, just upgrade to a Sony tv, going from shadow mask to aperture grille is still a fairly spectacular jump.

>> No.2491351

>>2491095
United States of NSA.

>> No.2491604

Hey guys, bit of a CRT noob, only used standard home use ones previously, but I'm looking into PVMs and curious if anyone can give me any information.

I've come across these on my local ebay,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sony-Trinitron-PVM-14M4A-14-Digital-Broadcast-Colour-Video-CRT-Monitor-/271852801042?fromMakeTrack=true

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sony-Trinitron-PVM-1454QM-14-HR-Colour-Broadcast-CRT-Monitor-/271846101237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f4b4a50f5

And I'm not really sure what the difference between the models are, only that one is more expensive. Also, I was browsing an archived thread I came across on google, and there's a lot of fixing up and what not that seems intimidating compared to just your standard home use one.

I should just be able to hook my wii up to these with s-video (homebrewed/changed video format to ntsc so I can use it, dw) and play a variety of shit in 480i right? I'm looking into getting one just for portability sake as my current CRT is xboxhueg and can't really be taken to friends houses or tournaments.

>> No.2491610

>>2491604
Oh, I also asked for images of it in use, in regards to the cheaper PVM, but I doubt I'm going to get anything besides a blank screen or photos of the shell itself. Just wanna make sure I'm getting a good deal as it's not the cheapest investment.

>> No.2491614

Any good calibration stuff for my PC monitor? I'm >>2490501 and I got a ViewSonic G90f for free from a thrift store where I'm a volunteer. They throw out CRTs since no one wants to buy them, so I decided to save at least one since I could fit it at home. Now I want to calibrate it so that I get as good of a picture as I can. In addition to DOSBox and Amiga emulation I plan to play DC games on it, in case I haven't made this come off as retro enough yet.

>> No.2491668
File: 59 KB, 800x600, Sony-Trinitron-TV-CRT-with-remote-for-sale-20140824001721.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491668

>>2491351
well, check sony 4/3 tvs but try to avoid widescreen or highend flatscreen / WEGA as many have processing gimmicks and geometry quirks. On these the best connector is often only S-Video, which is still a pretty damn huge leap over composite or RF.
If you want RGB (direct or through a component adaptor) you'll have to search for a PVM/BVM, but you'll probably have to do more search and phone calls.

Note that you can find component on late CRT tvs, but they also come with processing gimmicks mentionned. Mitebcool for non-/vr/ component consoles tho.

pic is what you should probably target
cylindrical tube for less glare with little to no geometry problem
Classy black body, on the big models the space is used to house big speakers and even a bass woofer to give great sound.

And also, be sure to try to get the original remote as it is needed to access service menu, you can't with a clone remote.

>> No.2491683

>>2491351
>>2491668
almost forgot : avoid CRT projection tvs.
While the display size/bulkyness ration is pretty decent, they're a nightmare.
view angles, burn-in, geometry, convergence.
Even more now since all of them have probably 100s if not 1000s of power-on hours.

>> No.2491732
File: 811 KB, 1000x1071, memes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491732

A friend gave me this KV-1743R to match my VCS and my 8-bit shitboxes, it looked like it was in fantastic shape but it just won't turn on when I use the remote or the button on the control panel.

I hate begging to be spoonfed help on the internet but I literally have no idea how to start figuring out what's wrong, are there any common ailments with older Trinitrons, or do I need to have him dig around for another one?

>> No.2491740

>>2491241

Movies an Taiwanese picture shows are best viewed in a 60Hz interlaced mode imo.

>> No.2491742

>>2491732

If only there were some sort of website where you could enter the model name of that TV and your problem, and instantly find discussions and videos about repairing that specific model by people who own them

I bet if someone came up with something like that they'd make a bundle. Hell, it could even be for looking up stuff that isn't related to old consumer electronics

Man, the more I think about this the more I think I'm onto something here. What do you think?

>> No.2491747

>>2491742

there's literally nothing on this particular model when I google it except for magazine ads, which are pretty cool, but not helpful for diagnosing it

>> No.2491751

>>2491732

Try to check for the service manual, there must be some kind of diagnosis flowchart in it (there's one in my Amstrad CT644 monitor service manual). If not, I think you'd have to check possible failures yourself (like fuses, capacitors and transistors causing Flyback Transformer failure).
Anyway, just don't forget basic CRT safety while handling it (discharging it, not working on it in Pajama). Good luck anon, because this set is sexy as hell, it would be a waste not to repair it.

>> No.2491779

>>2491751

thanks, I'll give it a go, currently just looking for a service manual for a more documented model of a similar vintage hoping it will lead me somewhere. It seems this set was more popular in Latin America, since the bulk of the results for it are in Spanish or Portuguese, weird.

>> No.2491838

>>2491604
Ahh, more of the Auschoice stuff. And boy are you late to the party :)

The 14M4A is newer, and has a higher line count = higher clarity. However, that pricing is likely based on what they think they can get for the units, which probably means how good/bright/clear the picture looks.

S-Video will plug right into either one, though i'd recommend getting a cheap wii component cable off ebay, and some RCA-BNC adapters.

Either set is about 17kg. Easy to move, but you wouldn't want to take one on the bus very often.

If I was doing it, i might go the D14L5A. Case is nice and broken, but it does 240p/480i/480p/1080i/720p. (The Wii will use 480P via component and look spectacular, assuming the tube is ok.) Your two sets will only do 240p/480i.

Posters here seem pretty happy with the quality of the sets they've received from Auschoice - those that survived. Pick up if you can, or risk the unit getting destroyed. They will refund you (take pics of damage before unwrapping) but it makes us all sad when it happens.

Where in Aus are you, BTW?

>> No.2491849

>>2491838
Yeah I briefly read the 14M4A was better, that's why I was confused, and yeah I need some new component cables, broke my old ones, and my current capture card doesn't support them so it's not a priority right now.

I'm on the gold coast, I can go and pick them up from Brisbane easily, think it's definitely worth it? Turns out a friend of mine might be able to throw me a small standard CRT as well, but I feel like the more the merrier.

>> No.2491853

>>2491838
>However, that pricing is likely based on what they think they can get for the units, which probably means how good/bright/clear the picture looks.

Wait.. so I probably want the more expensive one if I'm going to choose between those two?

>If I was doing it, i might go the D14L5A. Case is nice and broken, but it does 240p/480i/480p/1080i/720p

hmm.. that does sound alright, but the broken case is a little concerning, considering I want to move it around kind of often.

You think I should just go the D14L5A? I'm kind of excited and want to grab one ASAP because I have no self control. In regards to pickups, is that hard to organize? I've never really dealt with pickups before.

>> No.2491859

>>2491849
If you can pick up, you can try before you buy! Insist on it. Get the Wii cables ASAP (jaycar should have the BNC-RCA adaptors) and get in there and test the three sets:

PVM-D14L5A
PVM-14M4A
PVM-1454QM

See what you think of them for condition and weight/portability. If in ok condition they're tons nicer than consumer stuff. That's why were all so crazy about them.

>> No.2491865

>>2491859
Oh can I actually go into a store and try and buy them there? That sounds great. Is there anything I can test them with? as in should I bring a wii, or will I be able to notice discolouration and what not from a blank screen?

Just need to find out the exact location and such.. could head up there tomorrow..

>> No.2491875
File: 188 KB, 1600x1066, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491875

>>2491853
>In regards to pickups
Ring them, they're pretty nice. They may not go crazy testing stuff for you, but i reckon they'd be fine for you to plug stuff in and try it out. The monitors they have left have been there for 8-10 weeks easily.

Get 240p test suite for your Wii (it's softmodded, right?) and learn how to use it first. See PIC - the only lights you want on are

For the 14M4A and the 1454QM:
SVideo - line C, make sure all other lights button are off, and hit the line/RGB button because one way will show the pic.
Component - Line B, all other lights off, hit the line/RGB button until something shows up.

When you test the sets, make sure the wii is set to 480i to begin with. You won't damage a PVM in good nick by just testing it with the sync too high (480P+) but the picture will be garbled and you won't be able to change it (I think? Can you hold shit down to boot up in different video modes for the Wii proper?)

>> No.2491878

>>2491875
and don't forget to turn the brightness, contrast and chroma knobs up to see if you can get an acceptable picture.

I'd also try to talk them down a bit from their asking prices. As I said, the sets have been online for more than 2 months.

>> No.2491883

>>2491865
>could head up there tomorrow
Chill. Make sure you know what to look for with 240P test suite first. It'll highlight geometry issues for you, and has a few other screens you can test for ghosting and brightness with (the 240P scroll test is nice). There are 480i tests in there as well. I'd say test it with 240P and if everything looks ok plug in a game you like

>> No.2491894

>>2491875
>>2491878
Thank you anon, it's all very appreciated. You still recommend going for the D14L5A though? I figure the buttons will be similar anyway, seems pretty straightforward.

And yeah I'll check out 240p test suite before I go, but it kinda feels excessive, obviously I want the best bang for my buck but I don't have the biggest choice of CRT's, so as long as the colour and brightness is alright, I feel like I should be fine. I imagine if there's ghosting or the screen is really curved, I'll notice it quite fast? Or am I missing the point?

>> No.2491905

I would like to know if people here define 'scan lines' as the black lines that are between the actual scan-lines or the lines of the raster where the electron gun is illuminating the phosphors.

>> No.2491920

>>2484390
the squeal is probably nothing... is it the same as the kind of change in frequency that you get when a white flash lights up a CRT?

Or is it something that isn't a variation of the normal whine a CRT makes?

Anyway, I bet you have a bad capacitor on the controller board for the CRT, or on the main board below. Check the controller board first, but if you do so yourself, as I said, be extra careful. CRT's are dangerous and you are very close to it.

If it has any markings, find where the blue gun is connected and trace that back to capacitors. Only electrolytics should be replaced (the can types. Ceramics and metal film are usually really really reliable).

There was a capacitor plague of sorts in the early 2000's, so this could well be a casualty of that.

>> No.2491925

>>2491732
check the power cord. Believe it or not, that is the most common thing I have to replace working in a shop that repairs audio amps and occasional TV's (all flat screens nowadays, though, sorry)

>> No.2491930

I have a 29" Triniton tv, and I am thinking about buying a sony pvm, but i can only find 14" monitors, is it even worth the trouble?

>> No.2491931

>>2491925
after the cord, check inside for fuses that could have blown. Try replacing them and turning it on. If it turns on and immediately blows the fuses, check for burned up resistors. If you find them, replace them and put in new fuses again.

>> No.2491932

>>2491894
I'd try all three sets and see what happens.

The D14L5A is slightly different, its buttons are in different spots. Google the Operating Manual, or for the 20L5/D20L5A because it'll work the same way. The settings you want are internal sync on (ext. sync off) and whatever connection you're using, similar to the above post (>>2491875)

>Thank you anon, it's all very appreciated.
You're welcome. If you don't mind me asking, what do you play, and at what events, if any? Melee tournaments?

>> No.2491940
File: 3.03 MB, 4608x3456, samelines2-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491940

>>2491930
14 inch looks fantastic. I have a 14 inch panasonic broadcast monitor (BT-H1390YN) and a 20 inch PVM-20L5, and I love both. 14 inch is very much worth it if you can sit somewhat close to the TV.

Pic is of the 14 inch panasonic. A PVM will look different, but expect similar line counts and somewhat better geometry.
Ignore that the top left corner is cut off, I had not yet adjusted my monitor when I took this photo.

>> No.2491943

>>2491940
Here's the same famicom and game hooked to the PVM-20L5. The 20L5 is 20 inches, and as a result the lines are further apart. I have also at one point had a PVM-1944Q (gave it to a very lucky neighborhood kid for a first in-room TV, on the condition that he give it back to me if he upgrades), and the lines were blurrier and thus less spaced out. It wasn't a 'bad' blur though... just noticeable, if that makes sense.

>> No.2491951

>>2491932
Yeah Melee, I'm pretty new to it all, been dabbling in the UQ smash events and thinking about going to Griffith, but living on the coast makes it a bit of a trek.

Been playing for about 7 months or so, and growing the game in my group, to the point where only one CRT makes smash days a little crowded, looking to a few extra, whatever I can find to be honest.

Do you play/looking to get into it?

>> No.2491956
File: 2.90 MB, 4608x3456, samelines1-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491956

>>2491943
fuck, forgot the image.

>> No.2491959
File: 2.27 MB, 4608x3456, 20l5 1944q.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491959

>>2491943
>>2491956
Here's the 20L5 compared to the 1944Q if anyone's interested. The 1944Q is quite nice but harder to calibrate than the 20L5. Had to spend a lot of time with color bars to get it looking right. If you can't find a reasonably priced 20L5 (Mine was free), I can recommend the 1944Q as a good model, though it is quite a bit older and does not support 480p or 1080i.

>> No.2491962
File: 2.85 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2381.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491962

>>2491959
should have mentioned the 20L5 is on the left. 1944Q is on the right.

Here it is with lights on and flash.

>> No.2491963

>>2491951
I used to play with friends, but i've seen it at a few events now. I've hardly played any S4 at all. I actually have no one to play with anymore. And i don't own a WiiU for online shens.

>> No.2491964

>>2491959
Nice, though I think the one on the right has the red a little too high.

>> No.2491967

>>2491963
I'm not the guy you've been conversing with, but I dont even own a 3DS, so I haven't played smash 4 at all.

Melee is better anyway, because there's no stupid as fuck DLC.

>> No.2491969

>>2491963
Interested in trying to git gud and going to events? I know UQ does sm4sh and melee, not sure about griffith though, though I know they ran a Project m tournament last weekend alongside melee, which UQ doesn't do.

I take it you live in Brisbane?

>>2491967
Bruh melee is just better in general, for a multitude of reasons.

>> No.2491971
File: 1.93 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2368.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491971

>>2491964
I know something's a tiny bit off. I was sick and tired of messing with potentiometers. Color bars look PRETTY good though...

>> No.2491973

This thread is utter shit. Basically a bunch of retarded kids who don't know jack shit about CRT displays.

Ugh. What a bunch of idiots.

>> No.2491980

>>2491973
>don't know shit about CRT displays
I know how they work enough that I made a controller board for one in the 90's at Panasonic.
back to /b/ with you.

>> No.2491982

>>2491973
While we're happy to accommodate your firm saltiness, we'd probably also appreciate your help. Care to contribute?

>> No.2491985

>>2491963
Nah I'm in Tassie. No making it to Brisbane events for me ;)

>> No.2491987

>>2491985
I see you're from australia. I'm an american who discovered and loves Danger 5. Anything like that I should look out for?

>> No.2491989

>>2491985
How the hell did you know so much about auschoice then? Nonetheless, that sucks, but there's always netplay if you want it.

>> No.2491994
File: 2.66 MB, 4608x3456, IMG_2323.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2491994

480p, fuck yeah!

>> No.2491996

>>2491982

>Saltiness

So you're saying I'm being potent and truthful.

So not only do you not know jack shit about CRT displays but you're also illiterate.

>> No.2492002

>>2491853
if you have self control and patience and at least some tiny amount of social skill, volunteer at a local TV station and use your volunteer status to get in and ask the station engineer some questions. I got a 20L5 free because I knew when they were upgrading equipment and asked if they had any old TV monitors they were getting rid of.

>> No.2492007

>>2491996
some people here don't, but there are people here that do know and can answer their questions. If people want to learn they will. fuck off to /b/.

>> No.2492010

I need to find an external degaussing coil, but I'm not having much luck. I'm located in Canada. Anybody know where to find an affordable one?

>> No.2492014

>>2492010

Have you tried the internet you fucktard?

>> No.2492016

>>2491996
>So not only do you not know jack shit about CRT displays but you're also illiterate.

Well, I haven't posted anything technical in this thread, so your analysis is a little washy on two points at minimum.

I'm genuine about wanting to learn more though. No need to rag on anyone, but if you have solutions it would be great to hear them :)

>> No.2492019

>>2492014
Yeah. Can't find any on amazon.ca, and all I can find are random ones on eBay for over $60.

Keyword was affordable.

>> No.2492021

>>2492016

>Claim that you want to learn more
>Go to a fucking shithole full of know nothing idiots.

You're off to a great start.

>> No.2492023

>>2492010
1) Are you sure you need an external one? what's wrong with your set?
2) canada is pretty big.
3) you can always make one.
Get a spool of #18 magnet wire, a 12" wooden form, and a slow speed drill to drive the form. Secure the start of the wire so you can find it after the coil is finished and wind away. Use a small appliance cord with an in-line switch for the AC connection.

Wind it thick enough that plugging it in is not a dead short. that means a lot of wire I used 5 pounds (the measurement of weight, not of money) of wire.

It's basically a transformer on a stick.

>> No.2492025

>>2492021
as I am someone who knows something and is trying to help people, that is incorrect.

>> No.2492027

>>2492023
A couple of my sets don't have internal ones, and the ones that do aren't doing enough.

I've got discoloration in the corners of some of my sets (probably as a result of moving them around), so I was hoping that a strong degauss coil would do the job.

If degaussing it doesn't fix my problem, then I'm not qualified enough to fix whatever else it could be.

>> No.2492032

>>2492027
possibly your sets or other magnetic things (like VCR's) are too close to each other and are interfering with each other? Most PVM's are okay (meant to be crammed together in racks), but a lot of consumer TV's don't want other CRT's nearby.

>> No.2492035

>>2492032
I'm doubtful. They're never hooked up in the same room together, and the corners remain like this even in other rooms.

They've seen a lot of travelling, though, so I'm thinking that might have been the issue.

>> No.2492036

>>2492032
P.S. This is pretty unlikely, but if you have a home generator or something, like a turbine, it could cause this problem.
Source: I have an old hydroelectric power generator from the 40's.

>> No.2492041

>>2492035
could just be travel, then, I suppose. Sometimes rotating the deflection magnet on the tube can fix it. Or on some newer models, there's an OSD.

>> No.2492045

>>2492041
Unfortunately, I don't know what any of those are.

Like I said, I'm probably not qualified to fix anything internally myself, and I don't think I should be tinkering around inside of something capable of holding a charge for that long with as little experience as I have.

Assuming it is travel, a degauss coil should be the fix I'm looking for though, right?

>> No.2492047

>>2492045
Could always google it.

:P

Though if you're nervous to work on a CRT internally, and can't find someone to do it, and degaussing doesn't fix it, please don't trash them. Sell them online describing the problem.

Anyway, try degaussing before anything else.

>> No.2492050
File: 2.40 MB, 4128x2322, 20150623_112909.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2492050

Hey /vr/ I don't stop by often, but a local thrift shop around the corner has this Sony Trinitron and remote for $25. I didn't write down any model numbers or size, bit can't anyone tell from first impression if it's worth?

It only does composite I believe.

>> No.2492051

I am an experienced electronics tech in Australia, have worked on a fair few CRTs for retro gaymers.

Been toying with the idea of advertising for CRT service... I'll tell you right now 50% of the jobs will be "Unrepairable because of unavailable parts"....

>> No.2492056

>>2492050
nothing because I can't see any inputs and it's at a horrible angle and rotated 90 degrees and out of focus.

But really, probably not too much. If you want a flat screen CRT, by all means take it. I'll just sit back and enjoy my PVM.

>> No.2492059

>>2492051
Just go for it, there'll certainly be at least a small market for it.

>> No.2492063

>>2492056

Sorry, clover has this issue with android pictures.
As for the picture itself, yeah, my phone fucked up.

>> No.2492069

>>2492063
and you did by not taking pics of the input panel or the model number.

>> No.2492176

>>2492021
You certainly are a helpful individual, aren't you.

>>2492051
Are you on the Aussiearcade forums?

>> No.2492240

>>2492176
I haven't visited the Aussiearcade forums,
I did have a look at the assemblergames forums a long time ago.

>> No.2492242

>>2491604
>>2491838
Definitely get the m4a. They have no idea about the quality/pricing there and often price retro tech stuff wrongly. I wouldn't be surprised if they accepted 100 for 2 if you contacted then directly. I went down there to test both monitors I've bought from them as I live not far away. Be wary that monitors don't have a good travel damage record but that people have gotten their money back hassle free from what I've heard.

>> No.2492245

>>2491849
Also component won't work on either of those monitors only s video, composite and rgb+sync

>> No.2492248
File: 930 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_20150624_135031_1600.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2492248

>>2491251
It's a Trinitron PC monitor running at 320x240@120hz so the scanlines are "real".

>> No.2492254

>>2492050
CRTs are only worth what you want from them. I wouldn't buy one as an investment

>> No.2492280

Anyone from Sweden here?

How do I find a good CRT? I looked around at Blocket and tradera but it didn't do much good (from what I could find).

>> No.2492282

>>2492242
BTW best way to test with only a Wii would be to
1. load 240p test suite room into a mega drive emulator
2. make sure the emulator is set to 240p (the normal composite signal of the Wii is 480i but a good emulator can simulate this) and has no filters on.

3. Check/prepare all this ahead of time so you just have to plug it in and turn it on. Have a game rom you are familiar with on file as well so you can check that too.

4. Have the wii composite cable (the yellow of the yellow red white) and a bnc adapter for that cable (small metal adapter costs 4 bucks in jaycar) ready to use. Even though it's the crappiest signal you will get out of a pvm it will still show any imperfections it may have and is the easiest to get/plug in.

5. When you first plug it in check the pluge screen in 240p suite and make sure the colours are all correct. In the grey scale screen play around with the contrast/brightness and make sure the gradients of white will remain intact when black is black.

6. These tests are of lesser importance and can possibly be fixed later especially with the m4a as it has digital alignment settings (though not convergence). First open the linearity test. The circles should be proper circles. Don't get too hung up on imperfections on this as they are common. You can also check the grid test for alignment issues. Next open the single dot test and run it all around the edge of the screen looking for anywhere it turns from white to the 3 separate colours. Small patches especially on the edges will not make a big difference to your picture but this is harder to change on a pvm.

7. Check other tests. Run your known test game. Should point it that aperture knob focuses the screen in composite.

8. Make purchase decision. Don't be afraid to go low.

Nb bring pc power cable (you will need one for the pvms, screw driver and any other tools. you think you'll need. If you bring enough cabling you could even connect them all together and test them all at once.

>> No.2492307

>>2492245
>>2491849
>>2491894

Dude, both the PVM-14M4A and the PVM-1454QM definitely take component. I own one of the former, and I've examined one of the latter when buying some 9" PVMs.

The PVM-1944QM probably takes component too, same for the 1442QM, though i don't believe the 1443MD will. I think that's where the cutoff is. For 20/19" sets just change the first two numbers and it's the same.

They're all 240p/480i only, of course...

And the condition of the tube is more important than the line count, remember that. Apart from that, i'd be listening to this guy >>2492282
:)

>> No.2492308

>>2492307
>PVM-1944QM
Meant the PVM-1444QM, obviously

>> No.2492315

>>2492280
I'm from Sweden. If you want a high-quality studio CRT, your best bet is importing from someplace in Europe or Japan/USA.

>> No.2492323

>>2492315
Wouldn't b&o be fairly prolific in Sweden? They are very solid screens with 480p modes

>> No.2492327

>>2492323
You would think so but I haven't seen much of them at all.

>> No.2492641

I'm having my NES & SNES modded to support all regions. Will I need a CRT display that supports PAL & NTSC? Or does it not matter?

>> No.2492657

>>2492641

If you're feeding RGB to the TV, it won't need to support PAL & NTSC, just have some sort of sync correction.

>> No.2492674

>>2492282
>>2492307
I'm kinda torn.. I understand testing for imperfections and making an accurate purchase on the best available, but considering there's maybe 3-5 potentials left over, it seems kind of excessive for me to spend the time to look for all the imperfections. As long as there's no ghosting, discoloration or strange alignment/curves in the screen, it should be fine right?

I'm usually elitist and efficient on my purchases but I feel like it's a little excessive considering I'm not looking for a perfect RGB retro console box, know what I mean? I feel like a PVM alone will be a step above grabbing someones old home system 32inch sony crt. Searching for imperfections might make a better purchase, but all in all it's not like I can fix them, I'll just be taking what I can.

BUT with that said, I'm a noob at all this, so if there's anything dramatic that I'm missing or could experience/regret that won't be outlandishly obvious, please feel free to explain it to me.

>> No.2492703

>>2492657
Yeah, I'll be using SCART.

>> No.2492776
File: 2.99 MB, 4160x2340, 20150624_185253.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2492776

so i've been wondering

this monitor was hit pretty hard during shipment and now it has this color issue whenever i turn it on

i used to think it was beyond repair but some things kind of fix it (rotating it makes the colors somewhat right again, and putting magnets near the yoke does the same as well) so i'm left wondering: is there any way i can diagnose and correct this? i'd love to get this thing working

>> No.2492789

>>2492776
>this monitor was hit pretty hard during shipment
Oh boy, the ride never ends. Which is just terrible in this case.

However, I think the aperture grille is loose which can't be fixed in any way but open up and inspect everything for damage and check if the yoke is loose.

>> No.2492797
File: 1.19 MB, 3264x1836, IMG-20141222-WA0000..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2492797

>>2492789
if it can make you feel better, this happened a year ago. i'm posting this because i kind of got hope over possibly fixing it, especially since i absolutely refuse to throw away a CRT

not everything sucks though, i did end up getting one of these sick ass mother fuckers

>> No.2492816

>>58053676
>I dont think iv laughed as hard at a film as much as this part
>www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Sz1j2Z7GQc>>2492674
Once you've got it home and had it a while the imperfections will dig at you and you'll want something better but they'll all be sold out.

>> No.2492919
File: 125 KB, 500x467, 20v500t.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2492919

Someone for the love of god help me...I have an RCA 20v500t CRT TV. For some reason, my TV likes to stretches my images vertically when I'm playing a game by about 10-15 pixels. Is there any way to fix this? I don't have a "zoom" or aspect ratio button on my TV or anything, either.

I'm playing Super Mario Bros. on my NES via composite in case you are wondering. It has been driving me insane.

>> No.2493169

>>2492919
you gotta open it and fuck around with the pots on the chassis probably

get the schematics and go to town with a screwdriver

>> No.2493230

>>2493169
I'm really nervous about doing that. I'm afraid I'll fuck something up and I will break it. How do I know what "pot" does what?

>> No.2493235

>>2493169
Not this, get into the service menu with the remote and find the v size setting and adjust it. I've gotten into it on RCA's but forgot the button combo, but you can find it online. You might not need the remote.

>> No.2493236

>>2493230
the schematics say it and sometimes there are inscriptions on the PCB that say what those pots do

if in doubt, leave it. also, wear gloves PLEASE

>> No.2493238

>>2493230
>How do I know what "pot" does what?

>>2493169
>get the schematics

>> No.2493287

>>2493238
>>2493236
I'm reading the service manual for my TV now and.....what the fuck. I have no idea what they are talking about. I have no idea what I'm doing...

>> No.2493341

>>2493287
A later flat screen crt like that is not going to have pots on the chassis for stuff like v size. It will be in a digital service menu accessed via a button combination.

>> No.2493360

>>2493341
I've been told you can do this. You wouldn't happen to know it....would you?

I've been looking for it for my certain model but I haven't been able to find it. It's an RCA 20v500t by the way.

>> No.2493470

>>2493360
You just have to google and try different ones, just google "RCA TV service codes."

>> No.2493596
File: 3.43 MB, 4128x2322, 20150624_153556.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2493596

Alright I'm back, went to a couple shops today and picked up a 12" JVC.

But I saw this beauty for $50 at goodwill.

>> No.2493608
File: 1.47 MB, 3280x2460, 101_7809-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2493608

>>2493596
Nice for 6th Gen+ and general use, but not for retro.

What specific model was it?

>> No.2493615
File: 2.62 MB, 4128x2322, 20150624_153551.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2493615

>> No.2493623

>>2493608
>>2493615

ps, dunno if youre the right person to ask,but how are composite to HDMI adaptes?

Bought a cap card that doesnt take composite, so I'd be splittering a signal from my wii to a CRT, and one of those scalers so I record.
Would this be the best way to capture in my situation?

>> No.2493929
File: 1.28 MB, 2896x2896, IMG_20150624_183054_edit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2493929

With the recent announcement of Shenmue 3, I decided to take out my old Dreamcast and bought a vga box. I went on craigslist and found this 22"(20" viewable) NEC AccuSync 125F for $30 and it's freaking beautiful. My games never looked so good. I don't know a thing about CRTs, the only reason I bought this one was because of the size (it's a beast). The monitor has a few cracks and was pretty dirty, but I managed to clean it up pretty good and the cracks and stuff don't really seem to affect performance.

>> No.2493934

>>2493929
NEC monitors are breddy gud, although that particular one seems to predate their Diamondtron line, which is GOAT.

>> No.2493938

>>2493934
Yeah, one of my coworkers was helping me out and told me NEC is a good brand, so I went with it.

>> No.2494054

hey /vr/

Somone about 2 hours away is trying to sell a sony pvm14l5, which i understand is like as good as it gets for input lag and component. Hes asking $200, if i can get him to take $150 I'm probably gonna get it. Anything i should take note of?

>> No.2494097

>>2494054

edit, sorry, its a PVM20M4U

How is this one?

>> No.2494118

>>2491925
>>2491930

thanks! I found a pretty nice TV troubleshooting guide that was giving me similar advice, I think I'll open it up this weekend and blogpost about it while I try that or something.

>> No.2494120

>>2494118

Meant to quote >>2491931 not >>2491930 fuck

polite sage

>> No.2494130

>>2492674
Put in the effort :) If you do it as best you can you'll have no regrets, and it'll become an heirloom.

>> No.2494137

>>2494097
Great. *00TVL (high clarity) SD only, so 240p/480i, but it'll take RGBS, Component and S-Video and Composite.

See all the above posts in this thread about the guy buying from auschoice and how to test things.

>> No.2494140

>>2494130
That was such an uplifting message. For you anon, I will. Definitely thinking of trying to get two for $100, would be a wonderful investment.

>> No.2494143

>>2494137
Its not 480p?

its gonna be a super smash brothers melee setup for component from the wii.

So it wouldnt support 480p or progressive scan mode?

>> No.2494146

>>2494143
No. Only the L5 line PVMs are capable of handling 480p.

>> No.2494151
File: 195 KB, 800x450, 15878455412_fb935fe2b6_c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2494151

>>2494146

I see, thanks for the heads up. But be that I cant use 480p mode on it, I'm still interested in it if I can get it for $150.

I saw some comparison shots on shmup, and the 800 lines make it look really nice and crisp.

>> No.2494194

>>2494151
Yep, it'll still be awesome, assuming the tube is in good condition. Try before you buy ;)

>> No.2494203

Can you calculate the number of TV lines from a monitor's dot pitch?

>> No.2494210

>>2494194

*sigh*

I have a capture card that only takes component and hdmi, and I did a test recording of 480i with the component side, and the interlacing hurt me so bad.

I assume since my capture card assumes im outputting 480p, it captures it as one signal unlike a dazzle which records the interlaced fields right? Meaning i can't fix this in virtualdub right?

Again, thank you so much anon for helping me before i made big mistakes.

>> No.2494214

>>2494203
>Can you calculate the number of TV lines from a monitor's dot pitch?
Horizontal-width * dot pitch = a pretty good estimate.

However, the figures given in the specs are often a little vague. They normally say something like "At least 800TVL at center".

>> No.2494237

>>2494214
*and* the dot pitches are often approximate themselves, and subject to typos when Sony at least churns out multiple similar manuals. The 14" sets are in some cases listed with the same dot pitch as the 20" ones.

>> No.2494240

>>2494210
>it captures it as one signal unlike a dazzle
Absolutely nfi, sorry. I don't do much/any capture stuff.

>> No.2494251

>>2494240

Thats ok, still gonna bug you though. I know you said the L5s are the only ones that handle 480p, does this mean that this youtube video is innaccurate?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkvLBZGt5yI

hes playing a 480p prgoressive mode on a
PVM20M7MDE

>> No.2494398

Actually, can I use a PVM as a pc monitor? What would I need to get to get that working?

>> No.2494402

>>2494398

No you can't unless you're using a PC with an CGA card and a PVM model with digital RGB in.

>> No.2494404

>>2494402
Oh well, not a big loss.

>> No.2494524

>>2494402
can't you do it with a s-video compatible vidya card?

>> No.2494537

>>2494524

Most of the time, the video encoder is a piece of shit and you won't see anything in the blurry mess unless you play games in 320*240.

>> No.2494547

>>2494251
I hadn't heard of that one, but some googling turns up: http://www.medly.fr/moniteur.pdf

So yeah, it looks like it can handle 31kHz/480p. Got to be rare as hens' teeth though.

>>2494402
>>2494398
>>2494398

You can use a 480i PVM with a PC without all that stuff. It's not the easiest thing to do though.

One way is using S-Video out from a laptop or graphics card. Butthat will *only* do 480i. For 240p...

The simplest way is to use an ATI GPU from about the older 8000 series up the HD 4000 series. Win XP. And then install Calamity's crt_emudriver. You don't need to have MAME installed to use VMM maker, but it might be easier.

Be prepared to do it over a few times until you have a system you want working. I use a laptop, but using an LCD and plugging the PVM in as a second screen will be needed at first, and for some changes. Windows boots in 480p at lowest, and can then switch to 480i or lower - with those drivers wbove. I'm not sure if the system will remember the low resolution, but i think it will. Just turn the monitor on once you know the system is fully into windows.

You need a VGA-4BNC cable, which you can make or buy. VGA-5BNC is more common, just merge the syncs with a BNC T-piece. Or better yet google for sync combiners. I use Viletim's.

It'll make for a fricking tiny desktop with huge icons though, if that's what you're planning. As a second monitor to run 15kHz on, it's pretty good.

>> No.2494690

>>2484131

I'd like to second this guy's request, but I'm a Yurpean so I can use SCART.

When I used to work in an electronics store a few years back we did these VGA to composite video adapters, but the quality was fucking abysmal- Is there anything that would allow a PC to output a proper RGB or S-Video signal or something like that?

>> No.2494796

>>2494690

The VGA port on some graphics cards can be coaxed into giving a 240p or 480i, RGBS signal the same as what SCART gives you.
In that situation a passive cable would be all you need.

>> No.2494840

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PVM-14M2U-Trinitron-Color-Video-Monitor-Power-on-Tested-ONLY-/221785854867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a3779393

Hows this deal /vr/?
i need a 480i tv for my component capture card.

>> No.2494961

>>2494840
Pretty sure the m2s are 600 lines. Check the quality before you buy. I don't live there but I imagine you could do better on the price in the states.

>> No.2495184

>>2494690
Just get a FW900.

>> No.2495193

>>2494961

what about the m14m2mdu?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzXvyid9FVg

This video is a 20m2mdu, but im looking at a 14m2dmu with 600 lines, the smaller size will help with clarity right?

>> No.2495205
File: 331 KB, 1200x900, sMFvXSI.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2495205

>>2495193

edit: this is the output of 240p, i want to have /vr/s approval, this looks great imo

>> No.2495235

>>2494840
>>2494961
i just grabbed a 14m2u, but it is in PRISTINE condition. i'm talking probably less than a hundred hours.

it's beautiful, i can't even imagine what a 800+ line set looks like.

i got mine for US$50, local.

>> No.2495262

>>2495184
Mang, those things are rare as fuck these days. I'd say just grab a monitor that's 19" or greater and made in the 2000's.

>> No.2495269

So before I delve into this, is there any easier way of getting the Dreamcast to output 480p onto a non-VGA monitor or television other than getting a VGA box and getting a VGA to component converter? I'm googling around to see if anybody's made a component cable for the Dreamcast and all I can come up with is something that never actually got made.

For the record, yes, I have the 20L5, so the monitor is fully 480p capable. I figure there's no simpler way around it but I'd like to have as few cables as possible in the rat's nest I already have.

>> No.2495279

>>2495269
You could internally mod it for VGA and add in some circuitry to turn the RGBHV into RGsB, which the L5 takes.

Alternatively, VGA solution + Extron RGB Interface will do the same thing, but will end up adding to your rat's nest.

>> No.2495352

>>2495235

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201375720925

pulled the trigger on this for $85 shipped, howd I do /vr/? looks pretty good, the rainbow lines look like they're just coming from the remote channel.
Got 4 bnc to phono adapters for $10 today locally too.

>> No.2495521

can anyone in the name of fucking shit tell me why the fuck when i output 480i via dreamcast or other consoles that output 480i i always get geometry issues on the top of the screen? it's like a damn static wave that distorts the topmost part of the picture bending it to the left

it's not A LOT but it really bugs me and i can't figure out why this is happening. it's present on every crt i try this out, be my PVM via RGB or my samsung plano via RGB

no, i don't have a monitor with component input except one which is kind of broken anyways and i cannot use.

>> No.2495765

>>2495279
To mod it for RGBs, you can just XOR the horizontal and vertical syncs together. Theres a 74HCxxx chip that does this, but I'm too lazy to look up which one.

>>2494210
To get around the interlacing ugliness on my composite capture card (when used with 240p), I ran my captured video through ffmpeg afterwards.
Since I was converting to h264 anyway (raw video is fucking huge):
ffmpeg -i raw-capture.avi -vf yadif=2 -vcodec libx264 -crf 18 -acodec libfdk_aac deinterlaced-converted.mp4
Worked great. Gave the video to my friend who put it on his youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLWnuXqZOB8
I also captured his SNES playing the chrono trigger intro, which is also on the page. The intro was in S-video. He also did a separate capture of the magus battle, but he fucked up and used composite for it.

>> No.2495823
File: 38 KB, 485x455, 420706.sony-pvm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2495823

I have a PVM 20M4U and I want to watch DVD on it with my HTPC. I use CRT_emudriver to get 480i output from it. Does anyone know of a software media player that can actually display the video interlaced, outputting fields instead of frames? I haven't been able to find one so far - everything i've tried outputs frames, creating combing atrifacts in the video. I'd rather not use a deinterlacing filter, either.

>> No.2495857

>>2491994
>you will never play at 480p on a PVM
:'{

>> No.2495867

>>2484167

looks like its loosing video signal sync while the high voltage is being supplied ,doesn't dim down the picture


My ques a signal video decoder chip is dieing

>> No.2495870

>>2495857
How exactly does quality change between 480i and 480p?
All I know is 480i is interlaced but I heard that's fine on CRT's and comes out deinterlaced anyway.

>> No.2495887

>>2491940
My god my Black Mage right now is named Stan as well

>> No.2495918

>>2495870
the source needs to be progressive to give benefit.
480i source on a 480i display is fine because both interlaces match.

>> No.2495957

>>2495918
But quality wise, is it the same but just a different format?

>> No.2496023

>>2495957
progressive is marginally better. It doesn't flicker as much, and each full frame is visible (in interlaced, you only get half a frame each time the screen is drawn, in progressive, you get full frames. Interlaced alternates between halves of frames and is a bit less detailed. When playing on an LCD, interlaced also has visible artifacts and looks horrid.

Having switched from 480i to 480p on my wii, I can confirm that 480p is nicer to look at.

>> No.2496024

>>2495870
With 480p, you actually get a frame resolution of 480 at 60 frames per second. With 480i, you get a FIELD (either only the odd or even lines of a would-be frame) resolution of 240 at 60 fields per second (the scan alternates between a field of odd and a field of even lines every refresh) and you never actually see a full frame - an image of with a reolution of 480 pixels. Therefore, you get a higher resolution and thus a better looking picture with 480p.

480p also looks a lot smoother as, in 480i, the odd and even fields that are displayed one after another are taken from successive frames, not the same frame. Whe you see a 480i "frame", you're actually seeing either an odd or even field of one frame interleaved with the other field of the successive frame - so you're seeing two two pictures taken/rendered at different times interleaved together. As you can imagine, this can cause problems when an object in the picture is at one position at oe instance of time where a frame would have been taken, and at a different position when the next frame is taken, and the fields of each are displayed at once. It actually happens a lot, but people don't notice it because the display is refreshing so fast. However, when you viiew 480p, it'll look a lot smoother than 480i, most likely because 480p doesn't have this problem.

Something else I've noticed about 480ii s a color problem with fine, white-colored details. Notice the alternating red and green along the edges of the platform lined with white lights in the picture. This doesn't happen with 480p.

Yes, a native 480i source is fine on a native 480i display. 6th generation games are natiive 480p but many are capable of outputting only a 480i signal. In this case, 480i is fine on a 480i display. But there are also many that are actually capable of outputting the native 480p signal.

(cont.)

>> No.2496027
File: 63 KB, 292x240, battlefield.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496027

>>2496024
(cont.)
forgot pic on last post

Deinterlacig is only used by certain devices (computer software media players, Blu-ray players, some dvd players, eyc) and should only be used when a display (like digital displays and 31 khz crts, such as computer monitors) isn't capable of displaying an interlaced signal at a certain reslution. This creates a full frame from every two fields in a 480i signal, but it looks worse than the original 480i signal in all cases. Consoles don't deinterlace (not on their games, at least).

tl:dr Yes it is the same in that you're seeing the same video, and yes it is a different format. But it's not "just" a different format - it's a better format with noticably better quality.

>> No.2496028

>>2496024
No, you get the same resolution, but you get the entirety of each frame.

>> No.2496031

>>2496027
Ah, I have noticed that stuff on battlefield. Thank you for the A+ explanation.

>> No.2496035

>>2495823
ffplay, mplayer, and VLC display interlaced signals by default, and can optionally deinterlace.

In VLC, make sure deinterlacing is set to 'none'.

>> No.2496043

>>2494398
>can I use a PVM as a monitor
yes, you can. Easiest and best if yours supports 480p, but as another person said, you can make your PC output interlaced otherwise.

>> No.2496047

>>2496028
I guess I should've said that, yes, you're still seeing 480 pixels every refresh with 480i, but you don't get the entire resolution of each "picture" or frame with it.

>>24960351
Not deinterlaced != interlaced, as a progressive scan doesn't doesn't need to be deinterlaced either. Software players have deinterlace filters turned off by default because their displays are only capable of displaying progressive scans and deinterlacing a progressive signal would just make it look bad.

I'm looking for a player that can actually display the fields in an interlaced signal seperately, interleaving them. Turning off deinterlacing doesn't allow for this - it just wont combine separate fields into a frame.

>> No.2496057

>>2496047

Sorry, meant to quote >>2496035 in the second part

>> No.2496221

>>2495279
>>2495765
>To mod it for RGBs, you can just XOR the horizontal and vertical syncs together. Theres a 74HCxxx chip that does this, but I'm too lazy to look up which one.

Hm. I figured as much, thanks. Modding it's way out of my skill, either way. Guess I'll have to deal with S-Video at 480i until I get the VGA box and converter.

...speaking of, I noticed today that Space Harrier running on Shenmue plays at proper 240p, but Hang-On plays at 480i. Really weird.

>> No.2496295

>>2496027
>>2496031

Battlefield looks that way at 480p too. That's how it's supposed to look. There is no color problem with 480i. That's not even a picture of an interlaced display.

>> No.2496417

>>2496047
no shit, but DVD's are interlaced.

>> No.2496424
File: 29 KB, 400x533, 7rW6WxK.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496424

My dreamcast setup

>> No.2496429

>>2496047
The only way I know of to display interlaced signals as actually interlaced is to use RetroArch with the interlacing.cg shader, and even then it's a bit of a hack as it just interlaces anything that has a vertical resolution above 400 pixels.

Also, it's a bit of a crapshoot because a lot of SD content you find on the net (such as old movies and anime) is already deinterlaced right off the bat due to the way they were encoded. I'm not sure how accurate it would be to re-interlace something that's deinterlaced already.

>> No.2496431
File: 78 KB, 800x600, A3NtnFH.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496431

A shot of SOTN from my BVM-14G5U

>> No.2496450

>>2495205
Looks OK can you take a steadier picture?

>> No.2496451
File: 920 KB, 2464x1632, a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496451

>>2493929
You and me both, I dunno about this monitor though. Shenmue looks good but I feel like it could look much better. Street Fighter Alpha 3 was also disappointing in appearance compared to being played in S-Video over my TV.

I want to take a pic to help people see it and see if I'm just crazy or something, but my pics come out like this. Any advice?

>> No.2496458
File: 1.40 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1971.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496458

>>2495352
I hope everything goes well for you, but I really don't like the look of those lines. In normal use, they should be hidden above the visible area of the screen.

>> No.2496463

>>2495521
Never heard of this happening dude. Can't think what it might be. Maybe play around with v hold and of settings that control the roll/ refresh rate?

>> No.2496496

So SD monitors only display 240 lines at once how is this spread out over the 600/800/1000 tvls a pvm might have? Are scanlines unlit phosphors or gaps?

>> No.2496503

>>2496496
TV lines are vertical, not horizontal.

>> No.2496508
File: 15 KB, 694x484, RGBHV_to_RGBS.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496508

>>2496221
Here's a schematic for RGBHV to RGBs that I just made. VERY easy.

Vcc is 5 volts for most of the IC's you'd use.

>> No.2496513

>>2496496
see
>>2490783
6:45 mark

>> No.2496561

>>2496458

what lines do you mean? the red green and blue one?

on a different setting the lines arent there, i assume that if i use composite A they wont be there.

Maybe someone toyed with the settings

>> No.2496565
File: 1.34 MB, 3912x3136, pvm-240p.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496565

>>2496496
>So SD monitors only display 240 lines at once how is this spread out over the 600/800/1000 tvls a pvm might have? Are scanlines unlit phosphors or gaps?
indeed, since the grille is vertical in nature, the line limit is defined by how granular the phosphor is and how intensely the gun is hitting the phosphors.Anyway, there is nothing inside the TV to limit it to 900 lines physically except that after 900 lines, the lines would blur together from being too close. 240 lines would be spread across the screen at regular intervals. Look at a 240p signal in a PVM (attached). This is how far apart lines are in 480i on each pass. (think of it as a single field of a 480i picture).

>> No.2496573

>>2496508
I meant to label that IC. It's a 74HC86.

A 74LS86 or 7486 would also work. It's just four XOR gates, of which you use one.

>> No.2496574

>>2496458
He needs to adjust the overscan, then, right?

Seems clear enough to me.

Though how spaced out those lines are is a bit odd, I think it will be fine.

>> No.2496580

>>2496451
You want the over-bright, high color temperature look of a consumer TV, I bet.

Your monitor if set to 6500k will appear a bit redder than a consumer TV, which will look more bluish. But 6500k is standard and faithful colors don't need to look "wow"ing.

Play with your camera settings (ISO, aperture, exposure time, etc) to get a better image.

>> No.2496591

>>2496503
>>2496513
>>2496565
Wow I feel dumb. It makes so much more sense now

>> No.2496593
File: 754 KB, 800x600, 1429241806406.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496593

>>2496574

thanks for being that extra boost of confidence anon. I'm really excited to own a nice crt for once.

>> No.2496594

>>2491085
It's a simple normal PSU cable, and check the label on the back, but mine were both listed for between 100 and 240 volts AC at 50-60 hertz. You should be fine, professional equipment is usually very flexible.

I say 'were' because I gave one of my PVM's away and only have one now.

>> No.2496597
File: 312 KB, 3600x620, Menu vs Signal.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496597

>>2496561
>>2496574
Perhaps, but they tend to drop down slightly on mine when actually displaying something, so them being so low and so spaced out when displaying the menu is really strange.

I've heard of them drooping when the capacitors are starting to go out of spec, but this seems like something completely different.

>> No.2496598

>>2491239
Hello. I'm a 'murican and I got a free PVM-20L5. Ha.

>> No.2496606

>>2496597

I think its a settings issue, is it off that this was listed as $50 and the only other 14" models are going for $300 on ebay?

I have a feeling this guy doesnt know much about CRTS. then again, neither do I.

>> No.2496608

>>2495857
It was pure chance that I found this PVM. Just keep looking!

(also, high end Sony PC monitors can be made to do 480p (480p is just 640x480 VGA or 720x480 VGA), though you'd have to split composite sync into horizontal and vertical sync).

>> No.2496613

>>2496606
Might be bad, but for $50 I would probably bite. Then again, I never have bought one online.

>> No.2496615

>>2496613

14 day return policy is on the auction, could i just lie and say the y pb pr inputs are borked?

also, how bad would those lines be if i was playing something, cant imagine they'd be that annoying

>> No.2496616

>>2496615
Depends on how much of the screen they take up. The entire image will appear under the bottom-most bar. You will probably be able to adjust it though.

if you can pay the shipping on the return, sounds fine by me.

>> No.2496619

>>2496615
I'd say three random lines going through it would be rather annoying.
I think I may have tried contacting him in the past to go and check it out (it's in my city) but never got an answer. Could be wrong though.
It could be that they're only visible when you have the menu up, which wouldn't be that big of a deal.

Is ebay acting weird for anyone else? That auction seems to have been removed, and it keeps asking me to log in repeatedly.

>> No.2496625

>>2496451

SFA3 is a 240p game with pixel graphics. It's not going to benefit as much from a 480p display as much as a polygonal game will. Personally, I prefer the scanlines and brightness you get from a CRT TV when I play 240p games. There are only a handful of those on the Dreamcast though.

>> No.2496628

>>2496597
I get RGB lines like that when I set my PVM into widescreen mode (they line the top of the display area; iirc they are very close together)... Never see them otherwise.
I also don't think my PVM is very healthy to be honest though, it's got some quirks of its own.

>> No.2496636
File: 1.06 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1587.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496636

>>2496451
>>2496625
Maybe try Third Strike. It looks great in both 240p and 480p.

>> No.2496673

>>2496451
i just beat shenmue 1 for the first time since like 2000. currently playing 2. what size is your monitor? there was a viewsonic 19" on cl in my area, but i decided to go with the nec.

>> No.2496706

>>2496636

That looks awful.

>> No.2496740
File: 1.30 MB, 3280x2460, 102_1621.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496740

>>2496706
Wasn't the photo I meant to post.
Sadly, most of my in match shots came out like shit.

>> No.2496784
File: 874 KB, 2047x1410, tv.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496784

Hi crt thread. I got a hand-me-down consumer TV from a friend who was going to throw it away. It's a 24 inch RCA from 2006. Can't seem to find a manual but I'm not too worried about that.

Can anyone tell me what kind of crt this is from the pic? Like grille/shadow mask/etc. There's also some purplish discoloration in the corner, and I'm wondering if this is easy or impossible to fix. Anything you can tell me would be cool to know, or maybe a link to read up on stuff.

I'm guessing it's garbage in this thread's eyes but I'm poor and can't afford anything nicer right now, at this point I'm just happy to not have the huge input delay my LCD has. Also thanks for reading my blogpost.

>> No.2496796
File: 755 KB, 1200x900, IMG_20150626_033715_resize.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2496796

>>2496784
this might be a little clearer, sorry for the awful phone quality

>> No.2496845

>>2496784
>>2496796
Hi anon, it looks like a shadow mask to me but the pictures are somewhat blurry. An easy way to tell is to look at the shape of the screen; shadow mask sets are usually more 'bulbous' and aperture grilles have kind of a 'barrel' shaped curvature. Unless it's a flat CRT?
As for the discoloration, it just sounds gaussed. CRTs rely on magnetic deflection to guide the beams correctly and sometimes, when subjected to magnetic interference, it messes with the picture. It's not always completely fixable but a degaussing coil might do the trick. You can buy one, or there are makeshift options -- sometimes even just turning the set toward a different cardinal direction helps. Typically there are weak built-in degaussing coils that trigger after powering the set on after it's been off a while, but if you've got a persistent color purity issue it probably won't help much. Make sure to keep it away from things with strong magnetic fields, like unshielded speakers.

>> No.2497313

>>2495765
>To mod it for RGBs, you can just XOR the horizontal and vertical syncs together. Theres a 74HCxxx chip that does this, but I'm too lazy to look up which one.
This is very simple.
4030 and 74*86 are quad XOR gates (4 gates that have 2 inputs). If both sync inputs are negative then one of them should be made positive and be XORed with the other sync signal to create a proper CSync.
With 4 gates it's possible to implement 2 switches to define the sync polarities of the inputs and wire the rest together to create CSync.
The only things to ensure are the sync input amplitudes are compatible with the XOR gates and the requirements of the monitor, do not forget to tie unused inputs to ground or power and the pull-up/down resistors for the switches.

>To get around the interlacing ugliness on my composite capture card (when used with 240p), I ran my captured video through ffmpeg afterwards.
I simply record my stuff lossless (to keep full vertical chrominance resolution) and process it in virtualdub afterwards.
It's simply looks great like the real thing if it's perfectly synced with the monitor.
This is how it's done:
https://archive.moe/vr/thread/1276812/#1277928

>> No.2497349

>>2497313
Yes, and if you actually read further down in the thread, I made a schematic already and gave the chip name.

>> No.2497350

>>2497313
p.s. some of us don't use windoze. Virtualdub's not an option.

>> No.2497372
File: 2.53 MB, 4608x3456, bth1390yn-2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2497372

>>2496463
>dude.
Wrong, dude.
if anything it'll be horizontal hold.

>> No.2497396

>>2495887
Woo, four letter names!

>> No.2497397

>>2496628
That happening in widescreen has nothing to do with health, that's just how it works on just about all PVM's (and maybe BVM's but I've not got one to test).

>> No.2497401

>>2495867
why would that be a sign of losing sync?

Nothing to do with sync if the screen flashes.

Why would you think it has to do with sync?

>> No.2497407

>>2497397
Ah okay. That's good news I suppose.

>> No.2497516

>>2497372

mama mia i cant wait to play chrono trigger on my crt coming in.

It was the first game and reason that I decided to blow off classes for a day in high school for so I could play it. Best decision I made that year.

>> No.2497874

Anyone know the best way to remove the anit-glare coating of a crt monitor?

Mine has a spray on coating, no the kind you can just peel off.

I was thinking of using a heavy-duty adhesive remover like goof off.

>> No.2497883

>>2497874

Rubbing alcohol and a razor blade?

>> No.2497894

>>2497883
Rubbing alcohol didn't work and a razor blade won't work because it's not the peel off kind.

>> No.2497941
File: 769 KB, 1536x2048, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2497941

HELP
E
L
P

Does this tv have lag or should I get it? It's a Sony Trinitron kv-27fs13.
$20.

>> No.2497962

>>2497941
shouldn't have lag anon. It looks like it's just s-video though if component is important for you.

>> No.2497964

>>2497962
(be sure and double check the back though, and the picture if possible)

>> No.2497979

>>2497941
ask to test it

>> No.2498054

>>2497941
Get some new pants.

>> No.2498060

>>2498054
>I have to find something to criticize!

>> No.2498132

>>2497941
>20
But in the ticket says $39.99.

>> No.2498215

>>2496845
It's definitely bulbous. Thanks for the info.

>> No.2498271

>>2497874
Don't.

It'll also remove the anti-static layer.

You don't want to remove that.

Why do you want the anti-glare film gone anyway? It's extremely helpful.

>> No.2498274

>>2497941
Why does no one ever actually show the model number or back panel of TV's they find?

If you want useful help, that's, like, rule number 1.

>> No.2498302

Found a monitor in my dads garage, added it to the collection. It's a piece of shit dell thing he said he got free. The blacks of the screen are really green though, and colour looks wrong in general, is that because it's damaged or because it was just cheap to begin with?

>> No.2498328
File: 525 KB, 1770x1186, 030.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2498328

RF master race

>> No.2498336

>>2498328
To be honest RF is really nice, it's the easiest to hook up and if you have a good cable it just works. To be it looks better too, probably just nostalgia but I think RF and composite look way better than fancy shit like RGB.

>> No.2498343
File: 1.08 MB, 3280x2460, 100_3951.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2498343

>>2497941
Its big brother has component, so I believe it should as well.
No lag to worry about.

>> No.2498390

Hey
Someone's got a Sony Trinitron KV-32XBR37 for sale.

Should I buy?

>> No.2498396

>>2498390
Wait nevermind it doesn't have component in.

>> No.2498397

>>2498274
Why does no one read before responding? He typed out the model number for us.

>> No.2498398

>>2498132
It was half off

>>2498274
I typed the model number!

>> No.2498405

>>2498390
>>2498396
Ok someone has a Sony Trinitron KV-32XBR37 for sale. It's a 480p 1080i model, but it DOESN'T HAVE COMPONENT IN.
AND THE 480i ONE DID.

So is there such thing as good component to coaxial conversion
Or do I give up on hope

>> No.2498408

>>2498398
Sorry, I tend to assume people don't unless they post a photo of the back panel. The front of a TV is the least useful thing to take a picture of. Only thing you can tell is if it's made by sony/toshiba/whatever.

I prefer photos of back panels so I can see inputs without looking for manuals, but yours looks pretty nice.

>> No.2498412

>>2498405
http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-WS-007-Modulator-S-Video-Converter/dp/B0009MCNX6
Who knows if it has lag

>> No.2498417

>>2498405
>Ok someone has a Sony Trinitron KV-32XBR37 for sale. It's a 480p 1080i model, but it DOESN'T HAVE COMPONENT IN.

That doesn't sound right at all. Googling that model comes up with nothing but remotes, too. Those HD Sony CRTs usually have component or HDMI, if not both. You absolutely cannot to anything above 480i on composite, and forget about RF. There's no way an "HD" model just has RF and composite, either way.

>> No.2498439

>>2498417
Yeah I think I made up the 480p 1080i bit
I was just rushedly assuming XBR meant 480p

Ok, so it isn't 480p.
But is a 32" Trinitron for $25 still a good deal?
Has S-Video.
Will it lag?

>> No.2498451

>>2498439
>But is a 32" Trinitron for $25 still a good deal?

The price is right but depending on age and use -- I imagine it's fairly old judging by the few images on google I can find, not to mention lack of component -- it may have geometry issues (fixable in service menus, usually) or convergence issues (not so easily fixed). Try before you buy.

Also, 32" CRTs are huge. Behemoths. You're 100% not going to be able to lift this thing by yourself unless you're a big guy. Like, crashing this plane big guy.

>Has S-Video. Will it lag?
On those older TVs, especially ones that didn't even go above 480i, you don't have to worry about any lag. Only when you get into the realm of HDTVs -- both LCD and CRT -- is this something to be concerned about.

>> No.2498486

>>2498451
>>2498439
>I imagine it's fairly old judging by the few images on google I can find, not to mention lack of component
The owner's manual on Sony's site lists a date of '94, which sounds right for the model number.
XBR just means it's one of Sony's higher end sets. They've used the term/line for standard CRTs, flat CRTs, and their panel offerings.

It is a much older model, and doesn't have as nice inputs as the FS13 above. It's also had more time to be used and accumulate wear.
On the flipside, it doesn't have a FD Trinitron tube, so you shouldn't have to worry about horizontal linearity problems like you do with flat CRTs.

~105lb for the FS13, 163 for the XBR/

>> No.2498631
File: 3.40 MB, 1632x1224, inputs.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2498631

>>2498486
>>2498451
>>2497941
OK
So I ended up getting the 27" KV-27FS13. $20. (it was half off)
It does have component (first thing I checked before buying)
You can carry it yourself, but it kinda sucks.

Works great, just got done playing PM on Composite, I'll try the component input or a retro game later.

>>2498054
shut up

As for
>>2498390
the KV-32XBR37, after carrying the 27", I really don't want to deal with the 32", and I don't even know where I'd put it. I'm sure it's a great TV, but I've got a great one right here with component in and less weight at only 5 inches less. The 27" can be handled by me. The 32" is gonna take multiple people and I don't really want to deal with that.
Maybe I'll donate it to the UT Dallas smash club or something as a greeting gift.

Anyway,
>>2498390
is for sale on Craigslist for $25, so if you're in the DFW metroplex and feel like going to Plano you should hit it up, the guy seems nice (I talked to him). Search "XBR"
I'd get it but it's too heavy and I don't have anyone with me as enthusiastic about CRTs to help me carry the thing.

>> No.2498634
File: 2.83 MB, 1632x1224, details.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2498634

>>2498631
For clarification, that picture is the 32" XBR, not the 27" I bought.

Here's the XBR's info

>> No.2498714

>>2498328
>RF
>50hz
>MD2
that's like the worst combination possible ever

>> No.2498749

>>2498271
I think I may be to blame for my Monitor's shit black levels.

>> No.2498823

>>2498328

These kinds of TVs are best are real nice with Atari VCS (especially the fake wood model) and Colecovision consoles, but not with a megadrive though.

>MD2

Well, I won't blame you, it's RGB cable is so shitty that it make the picture looks worse than composite, so it's more of the same.

>> No.2498883
File: 203 KB, 1678x1310, IMAG0185_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2498883

Picked up this neat little Samsung CR5A portable colour TV today and it seems to work perfectly except it won't display any colour. I've played with the colour dial and nothing. Any ideas?

>> No.2499127

>>2498883
Have you tried multiple sources on it?

>> No.2499213

How good are Philips CRT ?

I used to have one. I'd forgotten about it but I went to my father's office the other day and it was there hooked up to a security camera.

Not sure what model it was

>> No.2499396
File: 324 KB, 1000x1000, pvm14l2md_z.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2499396

> 14m2MDU wont be here for another week atleasst

god damn i have all thesea adapters and shit ready and the space for it all out the wait is killing me

>> No.2499404

>>2499396
iktf
I've had a new BVM sitting on the floor next to me waiting for a table to pop up on craigslist.

>> No.2499427
File: 18 KB, 600x450, 00e0e_413CnDxsSDC_600x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2499427

https://nashville.craigslist.org/sop/5070123893.html

Is this worth $45?

I really love IBM and I really love CRTs, so this looks great to me.

>> No.2499435

>>2499427

Honestly? I'd probably splurge on that. Bigass CRT, plus bigass res sounds nice.
If you have the room to store/use it and can afford it, I say go for it.

>> No.2499473

>>2499435
Nice, thanks. Hopefully he still has it.

>> No.2499528

Do you guys think s-video only PVMs are worth it, or is it scart/rbg or bust?

>> No.2499537

>>2499528
I guess it's personal preference, but if you're going to go out of your way to get one I don't see why you'd settle for just Y/C? For most of us, RGB is the point of one.

>> No.2499550

Anyone know of any good hdmi/dp to rgb converters that will let me play emulated games on a pvm?

>> No.2499560

Sony PVM20L2MD for $100 a good deal?

>> No.2499562

>>2499560
Nvm, it's a 4.5 hour drive there.

>> No.2499573

>>2499550

Why not just use the VGA port on your graphics card and a passive adaptor to play them?

>> No.2499615

Is there such thing as a monitor that's over 25"?

Or a TV that does 480p?

Crts of course, with the no lag deal

>> No.2499617

>>2499615

My "100Hz" CRT supports 480p natively.

>> No.2499636

>>2499617
how big is it

Basically I want a big display with no lag that supports 480p

>> No.2499646

>>2499636

It's fucking huge. Downside is that it doesn't natively display 240p and 480i signals, there's lag there.

>> No.2499752

>>2499127

I have, yeah. Same thing.

>> No.2499982

>>2499573
Don't those only work if the graphics card outputs the rgb signal natively?

>> No.2500048
File: 2.46 MB, 2448x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2500048

C-can I join. New to CRT's.

>> No.2500057

>>2499982
Its not a RGB problem, its a scanrate problem. Read about soft15khz and crtemudriver/groovymame.

>> No.2500060

>>2499528
There's not much of a quality difference

>> No.2500092

>>2500060

Between s-video and RGB?

>> No.2500107

>>2500092
Yeah. There's a big jump between component and s video then rgb is a small step up improving colours (svideo carries all the colours in one)

>> No.2500141

>>2500107

Well that fits my (rudimentary) understanding of s-video then. It just separates black/white from colour, yes?

>> No.2500158

>>2500107
>component and s video
composite

>>2500141
>It just separates black/white from colour, yes?
Essentially. Luma/Y carries brightness and sync information, which results in black and white video. Chroma/C is all the color information.
The same Y signal is used for Component/YPbPr.

>> No.2500179

>>2500158
What's better, component or scart?

>> No.2500189

>>2500057
I'm using nvidia(gtx970) and win8.1

>> No.2500207
File: 1.47 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4488.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2500207

>>2500179
Component as a standard supports higher resolutions than the 480i RGBs SCART is used for. This isn't to say you can't push higher resolutions over RGBs, it's just not something that was ever really done.
RGB has a broader color range, but in practice, the two will look essentially the same if pushing the same image.

>> No.2500230

I want to use composite on my tandy 1000 because fuck finding a TGA compatible monitor

What are some good beige monitors that have composite

>> No.2500276

>>2500230
You can't go wrong with Commodore monitors, the 1084S-D1 being my absolute favourite.

>> No.2500468
File: 122 KB, 540x960, comm_1071.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2500468

>>2500276
I have a Commodore monitor, pretty good. Got it for $20. 1071.

>> No.2500470
File: 58 KB, 960x720, crispy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2500470

>>2500468
Here's another one. Surprisingly crispy for S-Video.

>> No.2500472

>>2500468
I meant 1701, sorry. Was about to pick up a Sony PVM, but it's quite a drive away.Gotta keep scumming Craigslist.

>> No.2500509

>>2500468
I like the box. (not kidding)

>> No.2500542
File: 2.18 MB, 1920x1080, 1427434667122.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2500542

So, I've been trying to avoid thinking about this. but i ordered a PVM 14m2mdu and its got some funky rgb lines on the "remote"

I'm worried it might need calibrations on other channels when I get it. I'm having trouble finding any guides on shmup, or neo geo retro forums.

Anyone experienced in calibrating CRTS?

>> No.2500803

>>2500542
It's pretty easy dude, unless it involves opening the case. post when you get it and I'll paste a thing I wrote about my m4e don't have access to it atm

>> No.2500809

>>2500542
BTW pvms don't have channels

>> No.2501196

I'm trying to play SNES virtual console games on my 80s trinitron via composite. I've heard that the wii can output VC games at 240p by pressing A+1+Z on the wiimote and nunchuck, but that doesn't seem to do anything for me at all, and I don't see any scan lines so I'm convinced I'm not getting a 240p signal. Anybody know what I need to do ?

>> No.2501206

>>2501196

I know for a fact that emulators like SNES9x GX support 240p, so you could try those instead of the virtual console.
Also, maybe it makes a difference if your Wii is set to use 480p in settings?

>> No.2501234

>>2501206
My wii is set to 480i in the settings.
I tried snes9xgx and I don't know how anyone one plays snes with that much input lag. Thx for your help though

>> No.2501268

>>2501196
>80s trinitron

It's gonna be bloomy as fuck, so most likely it's not going to display any noticeable scanlines like you'd see on more modern sets. If it's set to 480i, the Wii always defaults to 240p on SNES VC games.

480i is flickery as fuck, whereas 240p is a very stable image. Put on a movie or watch some TV on the set, and you might notice what I'm talking about.

>> No.2501305

>>2501268
this is the answer I have been looking for all this time, thank you! Do you think it's worth upgrading to a more modern crt?

>> No.2501312

>>2501305
Dunno. Take some pics of your screen in action, maybe?

>> No.2502283

>>2501268
Good to know, TY Anon.

I'm trying to do the same thing, and wondering about other VC games on the Wii (Gen/Arcade/etc). Do they all run at 240p (if the wii is set to 480i)? Is there a way to tell what does and what doesn't, and is there a way to switch? A+1+Z? How you get 480i if desired? Can that be done on the fly, or do you need to load holding those?

Actually, is there any way to tell whether a game is running 240p?

>> No.2502307

>>2502283
>Actually, is there any way to tell whether a game is running 240p?

With a standard television, especially an older set like that, only with a well trained eye. Almost impossible to display the differences with a picture, but you'll notice the picture will be a lot more "flickery" in 480i and more stable in 240p. Switching with the Wii is on the fly with that button combination you just mentioned. As the other guy mentioned, everything on the Virtual Console besides N64 games default to 480i when set to standard definition.

I guess an easy way to tell the difference would be to boot up 240p suite on the Wii since that has interchangable 240p and 480i modes.

>> No.2502316

>>2502307
>As the other guy mentioned, everything on the Virtual Console besides N64 games default to 480i when set to standard definition.

Reverse that. Everything defaults to 240p but N64 defaults to 480i.

I'd delete the post but I know if I do someone will have already replied to it. It's just the way 4chan works.

>> No.2502335
File: 2.91 MB, 3000x2000, IMG_4038.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2502335

This weekend I purchased a Sony PVM-20M4E.

Everything appears to be working as it should, but there is no sound.

Is this a symptom that anyone has come across before? I don't think it should be like this.

The previous owner seemed a little surprised that the speaker didn't work and gave a partial refund, he claimed that he had used external speakers the duration of owning it. This seemed plausible.

>> No.2502343

>>2502335

The speaker is mono anyway. Get some speakers.

>> No.2502348

>>2502343
I know it is only mono, but it still kinda irks me. Like, I'm actually considering cracking off the back just to see if someone has physically disconnected it or something.

>> No.2502372

>>2502335
>claimed that he had used external speakers the duration of owning it. This seemed plausible.
That's a load of horseshit.

>> No.2502375

>>2502372
I've used external speakers the duration of owning mine

>> No.2502383

>>2492282
Been looking into the 240p test suite, but I'm still not entirely sure what I'm doing with it.

I feel like a lot of the test patterns are designed for calibrating your colours, though can also show off some colour issues, and the rest of the tests are for noticing the small nuances of the screen, say the level of overscan, or if the corners of the screen are a little more compressed, things like that, just so I know what I'm buying, rather than spotting out major flaws?

Not to say I won't find major issues with it, but more so I'm scouting out imperfections mostly, to try to make the best purchase.

For example, I ran through it on my current CRT and there wasn't anything major I noticed, simply that the edges are rendered more compressed due to the screen bend, it buzzes during the black/white alternating pixels (and may have rendered the alternating lines one imperfectly, not sure), the white dot on the black screen for backlight testing had a ghosting trail on it (doubt that's intended) and I don't think it was perfectly white around the edges of the screen either, but otherwise everything else seemed fine so all in all it's not a big deal, just small imperfections right?

>> No.2502385

>>2502372
I dunno, I didn't think so.

I only paid £20 for it in the end anyway.

>> No.2502424
File: 229 KB, 1024x768, E3A6CE13-E73C-4C48-87ED-8E0118A03910-6826-000006689AA61D63_zps35e50427[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2502424

With the pvm's I've seen, the RCA audio is simply "in" or "out", though most RCA cables require at least two input jacks for the "red" and "white".

Do I simply need a splitter (2 females into one male) or would I just want to throw one white or red in and set the console to mono?

Also you're all talking about external speakers, what type of adapter would I need for that? It's the least of my priorities but I'd prefer to know.

>> No.2502443

>>2502424
>Do I simply need a splitter (2 females into one male) or would I just want to throw one white or red in and set the console to mono
The net result is the same, but a y-cord is good to have around.

As for speakers, just get some powered PC speakers at a thrift store, or plunk down a couple hundred for some not really pro-audio monitors at Guitar Center. Roland makes some nice ones.

>> No.2502454

>>2502443
I have some nice standard speakers, I just don't know where I'd plug it in to, as I can't see a standard 3.4mm audio jack on the back, nor can I find RCA to 3.4mm adapters.

>The net result is the same, but a y-cord is good to have around.
So I can use a single red/white cable? If so, that's great as I recently snapped one or the others and swapped to s-video as I couldn't be bothered buying a new set.

Also I have some spare RCA splitters (2 female to 1 male), but I'm not sure how work in all honesty. I always figured they merged the signal into the male part, but for my capture card, the video signal goes into one female, then somehow is split evenly between the male and the other female port.

>> No.2502490

>>2502454
>3.4mm audio jack
3.5mm :)

You should be able to get a stereo 3.5 to dual RCA on Amazon or any music/pro-audio shop. Hosa makes some good ones. When you say "standard speakers", I assume you mean a set of powered computer speakers, right? Because the audio out on that monitor doesn't have an amplifier.

>> No.2502510

Uh, they are just your standard, plug into the wall, plug the jack into your pc/ipod/phone/etc style. I figure that'll work?

Also is there any easy way to compare some PVM models instead of going through all their instruction manuals and what not?
A store nearby is selling a 14M4A, 1454QM, 14L1, 14M2A, 14N6A and a D14L5A.

I know the D14L5A is good as someone helped me out here a few days ago, but it has some pretty big gashes on the back of the case that concern me a little. They also raised the prices to $130+ AUD from $70 "on sale". Hopefully they aren't dicks about it and I can at least get their prices back down to $70, though I was hoping for two for $100..

>> No.2502534

>>2502510
>A store nearby is selling a 14M4A, 1454QM, 14L1, 14M2A, 14N6A and a D14L5A.

Shit anon, I wish there were stores like that where I live.
Anyway not... Really? I don't know if this is 100% right, but the models with M are usually medical-grade, and the models with Q tend to be a bit older I think. Above all you should check inputs (e.g. pretty sure L1s do not have RGB or component) and picture... Pick the healthiest set you can get your hands on.
I have a 14N6U (I think the final letter is just a regional designation) and I like it, I think it's got a fairly low TVL count -- maybe 500-600? -- but it takes RGB and looks nice. I would take the healthiest model that takes RGB or component really, and consider any other factors secondarily.

>> No.2502545

>>2502534
Alright, I understand that, just run some tests and try to take the best looking I can get my hands on.
Really hoping the D14L5A casing is alright or could be patched up with duct tape to keep it secure, as supporting a lot more resolutions sounds quite nice.

Also, the amount of lines (can't remember the exact term), 600-800, is there a dramatic difference? I imagine higher is better but I'm curious as to how much better it looks, like would I trade slightly worse brightness for more scanlines or nah?

Probably just personal opinion, but I wanna grab as much information as I can, considering they've upped their prices like the little bitches they are :(

>> No.2502564

>>2502316
>>2502307
Cheers. I've played around with 240p a bit, i can tell the difference, i was just wondering if there were other indicators. I guess not :)

>> No.2502565

>>2502534
>>2502510
>>2502545

This is AusChoice right? You should go for the digital sets if possible as they are much easier to calibrate and usually in better shape. I would help you out myself buy have had an injury and can't drive

>> No.2502590

>>2502565
Yeah AusChoice. I called them up and sadly tomorrow, the day I was hoping to go with a friend or two, is stocktake and it's pretty much impossible to pick them up, let alone test them, so I'm out of luck until later in the week. Though they did say they could set them up and do some tests and forward the information/photos on to me, or if I can wait until later in the week/next week they might be able to set them all up in a corner of the warehouse and let me test them all out myself.

I'd take you up on the offer but sadly I don't drive so we're shit out of luck on that part.
I was thinking of taking a train up there and walking 1.5km to the store and back with the crt, but the extra $15-25 of train fares is a bit much for a small endeavor.

Also which exactly are the digital sets?

>> No.2502609

>>2502545
>Also, the amount of lines (can't remember the exact term), 600-800, is there a dramatic difference?
It makes the picture sharper, but on a 14" set I don't know if it'd be a big deal... It becomes obvious in photos where you can see the spaces between phosphor stripes but you'd practically have to press your face against the screen in person for that to matter.

>> No.2502620

>>2502590
It's a bit of a trek from wacol station not to mention up and down hill!

Anyway digital sets will have full service menus that you can play around in. Normally you would have to take them a apart and play with the pots to change things. The ones ending in 2a and 4a are digital. The one with q in it is not. Not sure about the rest.

>> No.2502629

>>2502620
I was looking to go from richland I think? Seemed to be really close. I might have another friend who can drive me hopefully this week, as I don't wanna leave it too long because they'll probably forget about those end of financial year sales and be adamant on $130+ rather than settling for $70 or less if we buy a few.

Alright that's good to know about the digital ones, thanks for that. I'll have to look more into them, but leaning towards the 4a and the D14L5A.

>> No.2502657

>>2502283
AFAIK the only games that actually display in 240p on the Wii are NES, SNES, Master System, and Genesis games. Everything else, including TG16 and Neo-Geo, run in 480i.

>> No.2502678

there's a black dot in the middle of my CRT that looks like burnt

you can see it when the monitors off too if you shine a light at it

is this thing done for?

>> No.2502696

Anybody got CRT x LCD pics?

>> No.2502703

>>2502678
Sound like it

>> No.2502707

Can someone post LCD / CRT comparison shots for old video games? Someone referred this place to me after I asked what possible benefit having a CRT could have to playing retro games as opposed to just using an emulator.

>> No.2502713

>>2502510
Browse up this thread. There's some descriptions of the stuff Auschoice is selling, and some advice.

Models with "M" are just a series after "Q"/"QM", slightly newer, possibly slightly higher specced. "MD" is the medical designation, and it comes neaer the end - PVM-20M7MDE is a 20" M7 series (multiformat?) MD (medical) E (Europe)

The M-series is better than the N series. But read above :)

>> No.2502718

>>2502707

Stop while you still can. Ignorance is bliss.

>> No.2502720

>>2502713
What's the D mean?

>> No.2502768

>>2502707
Try reading the thread a bit and see if you can get a grip of some stuff. Also pastebin.

>> No.2502816

>>2502620
>The one with q in it is not.
The XX5XQ/QM series have the OSD same as the M series. The XX4XQ/QM do not.

>> No.2502823

>>2502720
>What's the D mean?
-In the PVM-D20L5A it's merely part of the Aus code for what in other regions is the PVM-20L5

-In the PVM-1943MD it's part of the "MD" meaning medical

>> No.2502828

>>2502823
on second though, could be an SDI indicator? Not present in other region models that have the SDI input though, so I'm not sure.

>> No.2502830

>>2502768
Alright thanks.

>> No.2502863
File: 1.06 MB, 1880x960, 1421440183604.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2502863

>>2502830
Image related.

Older games are often in 240p - 320x240 (effectively, but it's more complicated than measuring in pixels) 240p does not fit neatly into 1080p on your LCD, for one. As in, you can't just multiply the dimensions by an integer and make them fit. Which means the image gets stretched weirdly, and objects like sprites move funny and the whole image looks weird/wrong. Most LCD's do a shit job of scaling things up, and even expensive scaler boxes can have issues.

CRT's display images at native resolution, ideally. Added to which, they're are brighter, warmer, and have far better contrast. They also have less delay and ghosting. The games we're talking about were meant to be seen on CRT's, and look nicer that way. Image related - even if it's a software shader used on an LCD, it highlights the warmth, halation and resolution issues, if not the scaling per se.

Some anons here will tell you expensive OLED screens are just as good as CRT, but broadcast TV people can tell you this isn't true. The potential is there, but it hasn't quite been realised yet. Added to which longevity used to be a real issue for OLED. And these are the really expensive broadcast standard OLED sets we're talking about.

>> No.2502864

>>2502863
Oh, and you should still read the thread. We start a new one every so often, and there's always a lot of information in them, and always more to learn.

>> No.2502873

>>2502864
>>2502863
The image on the right actually looks better to me. The subtler contrast accentuates details in the artwork, such as the veins on the muscles and the fingernails, as well as the iconic red headband. The very warm colors in the picture on the left makes everything looked blended together and mushed up.

>> No.2502883

>>2502873
Yep, but they're both shots taken on an LCD, viewed on whatever screen you're using... I presume LCD? I used the image to highlight a few points.

Try it on a good CRT and the difference is much more marked. The CRT doesn't look mushed together, it looks great. Added to which, the pixels used for the shading of Ryu's arms, as an example, that isn't done intentionally but as part of a limited colour palette. It's possible to do stuff in that style (i.e. "retro") and make it look really great, but older games aren't designed with that in mind and often look kinda shit. The weird purple shadow at the back of the headband, for example...

I can't tell you what to prefer, but I'm a big fan of the real thing :) You can't really judge without seeing things on a nice CRT as well. I'd been using LCD with my PSone and I was skeptical until i picked up an EDTV off an e-waste pile, and with its colours like shit, settings wrong, and geometry warped, I was blown away. Older games *don't* look like shit, they look amazing, just as you remember them.

>> No.2502901

>>2502883
As in, the convergence was stuffed, the screen was discoloured in parts and water damaged too, and because it was EDTV and widescreen the 240p from the PSone was scaled strangely.

All that wrong, and it was enough to make me wonder why the hell I'd ever doubted.

>> No.2502902

>>2500470
>suprising for s-video

S-video is absolutely fine at lower resolutions. It can't handle HD like RGB can, but at smaller resolutions it should not have any crap artifacts or anything like composite would, because it can carry a full quality color signal that matches the black and white signal precisely in size.

>> No.2502907

>>2500542
When it gets here show it to us.


And also, I have color calibrated CRT's before if that's what you mean.
(see >>2491971 for two calibrated PVM's)

I have messed with TV's a lot. When you get it, take a photo of all the controls you can access and I'll tell you what to do. If I don't see the control I'm looking for I will tell you how to open it up.

>> No.2502915

>>2502424
Get some old harman kardon PC speakers or something and you're set.

In a pinch though, a Y cable is what you want. PVM speakers are (usually?) mono.

>> No.2502919

>>2502348
If you crack it open, pull out the speaker and try pushing down on the cone slightly (NOT THE DUST CAP IN THE CENTER). If it will bounce in and out, your speaker is not burned out.

That's all the help I can offer at the moment, without more info.

>> No.2502921

>>2502907

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201375720925?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Link to the one I bought, with the "issue" and pictures of controls. its a 14m2mdu.

I dont know when it will get here, if any time soon. I bought 3 days ago and it hasnt been marked as shipped. And with the 4th of july coming up who knows how long the post will have it.

thanks though, anon. I'm gonna be on /vr/ for a while. You guys are alot more fun that what /g/ has become in the last year and a half.

>> No.2502929

>>2499213
They can be good or bad depending on if they are high end models.

>>2499396
I got my 20L5 locally free, didn't have to wait on shipping. I feel blessed.

>> No.2502953

>>2502929

I'm kicking myself for not searching sooner. I play ssbm and have needed a CRT for a while, I went to good will, picked up a decent 14" JVC, got home and found out about the L5 series of PVMs and PVMs themselves.

Went to 5 recyling places, and 4 goodwills and then some thrift shops but to no avail. found that thing on ebay and settled because it was the best priced component machine available.

>> No.2502954
File: 419 KB, 1695x1444, ibm terminal-verysmall.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2502954

>>2499427
Do you like old IBM?

Found this recently.

>>2500107
>There's a big jump between component and s video
bullshit. At low resolutions there is barely any difference. Both use the same color space and component just works at a higher resolution maximum.

>> No.2502956

>>2502953
Good luck finding one at goodwill. I went to the local PBS station where I've been volunteering and I picked it up from the station engineer when they upgraded to new equipment.

>> No.2502974

>>2502921
as the guy you are replying to, and a former /g/ browser, glad to help. I agree about /g/ becoming a bit of a shithole.

>> No.2502975

>>2502956
GJ, anon! I've got feelers out in similar places.

>> No.2502980

>>2502954
it's nice, but we're really only interested in the monitor here :)

There is a thread for older PC gaming on the /vr/ board though. Might get some wood over there.

>> No.2502982

>>2502954
Oh, and that guy meant to type "composite". The jump between composite and S-video is marked. The jump from S-Video to component less so.

>> No.2502983

>>2502980
It's not a PC. It's an ASCII terminal.

It connects to a mainframe.

The monochrome display is why I posted though.

>> No.2502985

>>2502975
Good luck to you!

Good things come to those who wait.

>> No.2503080

Is 576i better than 480i?
All this CRT talk made me want to optimize my current setup until I get that pvm I'm looking for.

>> No.2503083

>>2503080

Only for 8bit and 16bit computers because it allows higher resolutions.

>> No.2503112

>>2503083
>>2503080

But it also pushes slightly lower framerates, and at 576i that might mean more noticeable flickering? Euro Amiga games were often coded in 576i, weren't they? And without that higher res they might not display properly, if at all.

>> No.2503115

So...Do Dreamcast and PS2 games benefit from CRTs like the older consoles do?

>> No.2503117

>>2503115
DC uses 480p, so you need a monitor or CRT capable of 31kHz. Normal old SDTV's only do 15kHz. But yes, apparently it's pretty awesome.

Not actually sure about PS2. (It's ok to say that here because we're talking about using it with a CRT). Some other anon will have to answer...

>> No.2503125

>>2503080
>>2503112
576i(288p) is the resolution used for PAL.; The framerate you get from it isn't explicitly lower so much as the refresh rate for PAL stuff is 50hz(outside of PAL60).

Unless the content you're playing is PAL exclusive or the PAL version is better off than the NTSC version, stick to 480i/240p.

>>2503115
Dreamcast will work well with a CRT TV for 240p/480i stuff, but is fantastic with a VGA box on a PC CRT.
The vast majority of the PS2's library is 480i, so it'd benefit from being played on a CRT as well.

>> No.2503126

>>2503117
>DC uses 480p

Even through s-video? I assumed it'd just do 480p through VGA...

>> No.2503130

>>2503112
>Euro Amiga games were often coded in 576i, weren't they? And without that higher res they might not display properly, if at all.

Some take advantage of these bonus lines, some just display in 320*200 even though they're in 320*256 mode, but use the remaining time to compute more stuff (well, at least in some demos they did).
If you try to display 320*256 stuff on a 60Hz machine, the monitor will have the bottom of the pic appear on top of the screen. Hopefully, in later models the Vertical Sync can be switched software side.

>> No.2503140
File: 77 KB, 720x960, 11647412_1181689188523699_357339096_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2503140

>>2503080
Here. Does anyone know much about these? Not too sure if it supports 480p or just 480i.

I think it might only be 480i as it does that thing where if shows the screen twice but kinda torn in half, whenever I use 480p, but not sure if that's just my wii doing wii things or if it's the tv.

Otherwise, got it's image quality crystal clear currently. Component cables, 480i on the wii, colours are all sorted and fixed some major bleeding ("colour" setting turned up high + a variety of sharpness or brightness/contrast made it just bleed out to the side for some reason), shit is pretty good right now.

Also setting 240p test suite to video modes that weren't just "240p" looked blurry or flickered a lot, and 480p did the screen tear thing, any idea why or is not anything to worry about?

>> No.2503145

>>2503140
Oh to clarify, I couldn't find shit online for it, any other words besides it's model number threw me to an empty search.

>> No.2503153
File: 1.21 MB, 3280x2460, 101_8042.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2503153

>>2503140
>that thing where if shows the screen twice but kinda torn in half, whenever I use 480p
That means it's trying to display it as 480i; That is, it does not support 480p.

>wii doing wii things
It's not Wii exclusive. Same thing will happen with anything feeding a 480p signal on a 480i screen, be it from a PS2, PC, or otherwise.

>> No.2503163
File: 1.11 MB, 1920x1080, IMG_0939.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2503163

from pvm-2030

>> No.2503171

>>2503163
> Hank Hill in the background
What game is that btw?

>> No.2503174

>>2503171

>hank hill

Arc the lad twilight of the spirits

>> No.2503180

>>2503163
>Carl disapproves of tsundere

>> No.2503181

>>2503171
>>2503174
What he said, it's pretty fun! Love the combat system, it's like half traditional turn-based and half tactical, like extremely casual tactical.

Carl is reflected off the Wega on the other side of the room

>> No.2503197

I know it's kind of off topic, but I wanna play some rpg's but I'm torn. On one hand I wanna play them on my CRT, get that sweet picture quality, on the other hand if I throw them on my psp, I can take them with me to friends houses and what not. OR, I could emulate them and dropbox the save file so I can play it on my laptop.

I don't go out too much, but it's the option of convenience. Similar problem with the CRT, it takes me away from my pc so I can't browse facebook/4chan at the same time, and I'm stuck with a gamecube controller until a friend can give me my classic controller back as well.

What would you all do?
Mother3/Digimon world 3 to clarify on games.

>> No.2503205

>>2503197
disregard PC and Vita, and focus on the crt

>> No.2503207

>>2503197
Digimon World 3 on CRT (because that looks fucking delicious). And MOTHER 3 on your notebook.

>> No.2503217

>>2503205
>>2503207
Aight, too easy.
Might put Mother3 on the psp. It's a pspgo so it's not super comfortable but I've always had a thing for portables.

>> No.2503218

>>2503217
Isn't the GBA emulation on the PSP a bit wacky? I haven't touched mine for like 8 years, so there could have been some development.

>> No.2503225

>>2503218

How is it PSP can do GBA emulation, but my NDS can't?

>> No.2503226

>>2503218
Not perfect, but it's alright. Mother 3 in particular crashed whenever I used the volume buttons, but I downloaded a different emu earlier that supposedly doesn't crash at all in Mother 3.

Tbh all emulation on the psp is a bit wack, it's not quite strong enough to do much, but for a portable it's acceptable.

I wish the wii had better controllers tbh, it's almost a perfect emulation box (psx/n64 needs work) but gamecube controllers suck dick for older games and wiimotes + classic controllers or adapters for the native controllers are a bit too expensive for a casual setup.

>> No.2503247

Is there a basic way to access the service menu of a CRT? Because I have one with some fucked up geometry and can't find the manual on the internet. It's a Durabrand CT2007.

>> No.2503252

>>2503247

Well it's usually finding the manual.

>> No.2503293

>>2503252
So that means, I am fucked?

>> No.2503306

>>2503293

You can try to check for the manual of a similar model too, or check for a every possible key combination on your remote if you have time to waste.

>> No.2503336

>>2503247
Tour duraband service menu into Google

>> No.2503371

>>2503226
just buy the wii classic controller pro, its good controller and well worth the money(just avoid chinese clones, they are terrible).

>> No.2503447

Guys. I just got a free 32 inch sony trinitron yesterday, dunno what model but it looks like its from the 2000s. And this morning I lugged it up to my attic. My fucking back is fucking broken. This is my first ever CRT though, so I'm pretty excited.

Anyhow. Is the trinitron good for GC, PS2, and OGXBox? That's what I'll mainly use it for.

>> No.2503464

>>2503447
You should try it out and tell us. But I think, it will.

>> No.2503802
File: 3 KB, 400x400, image.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2503802

>>2502954
Yeah, and damn that's nice.

There's a couple old IBMs in my area but obviously I can't afford them.

>> No.2503816

>>2502863
>>2502873
I think that there are some other filters on the left image besides the scanlines, at least it looks like that. Also doesn't look like a real CRT to me, is this emulated?

>> No.2503856

I know this is more of a /g/ thing, but could you get mini PC cases back in the 90s? I'm guessing no

>> No.2503870

http://shop.xgaming.com/products/27-29-inch-makvision-crt-arcade-monitor

>$599.99

Do people actually buy these?

>> No.2503878

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-GDM5402-21-Color-Trinitron-CRT-Monitor-/221764448995?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a230f2e3&rmvSB=true

Are these new?

>> No.2504168
File: 53 KB, 500x356, 1429041058755.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2504168

Just found out my pvm was shipped via fed ex.

Hold me /vr/

>> No.2504184

>>2503856
I don't see why not. By the late 90s, it was common to build your own PC. I built my first one in 1999, I think, and I didn't know shit about hardware.
The microATX also appeared in 1997, so I'm guessing there must have been a demand for smaller cases.

>> No.2504204
File: 2.37 MB, 4128x2322, same monitor bro.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2504204

>>2496451
are you me?

>> No.2504213

>>2503856
Actually found an interesting article from 1992.

https://books.google.no/books?id=X4152M1DLygC&pg=PA164#v=onepage&q&f=false

Talks a lot about smaller cases.

>> No.2504224

>>2504204
Good luck on your vehicle hunt, anon

>> No.2504257

>>2504204
>that gamesdbase watermark
Every time I look for a screen shot, them or Mobygames. Always the worst, all blown up and artifacted to hell.

>> No.2504289

>>2504204
How fuckin hot is it where you live?

>> No.2504920

>>2503816
Try actually reading the post... :)

>>2503870
Arcade builders/restorers do. Added to which at that price the sets are multiscan and will do 15kHz, 25kHz & 31kHz. The neckboards on these things are much easier to work with than other CRT's because they *only* take RGBS

>>2503878
Could be... They certainly seem to be in boxes. You could always check it out.

>> No.2505046

>>2503802
IBM 3161 ascii terminal, if interested. First to come with the full size modern style keyboard.
But since this is a CRT thread, I'll mention that the screens came in monochrome yellow or green. I'm planning to use it to play Zork.

>> No.2505049

>>2504168
My prayers (an atheists' prayers) go out to you.

>> No.2505102
File: 456 KB, 420x315, easy to install.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505102

what is the best display for 6th gen consoles? or at least the best i can get without spending much money. i know that technically gamecube, ps2 and xbox are not retro but i thought that crt general was the best place to ask about this

i already have a trinitron tv and use component cables and it looks alright, but i would like something that supports progressive scan, without any noticeable lag

tl;dr
what is the best way to get 480p from consoles without input lag

>> No.2505156

>>2505102
PVM-20L5

besides that, not sure what trinitrons do 480p and 480i.

Alternatively get a large trinitron CRT computer monitor and make a circuit to combine syncs, and there's your 480p display.

>> No.2505207

>>2505102
An HD Wega/Trinitron from the mid 2000s would be ideal, but any HD-CRT from Toshiba, Panasonic, ect. would be fine. Consumer grade HD-CRTs are essentially perfect for 6th gen, but not ideal for retro as they'll upscale 240p signals to 480i.

Multiscan PVMs and BVMs are a better choice if you want something that can handle 240p sources as well, but they're more difficult to find/more expensive.

>> No.2505265
File: 42 KB, 598x598, pa.107892.1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505265

>>2505156
i really dont know how i would make the circuit, instead could i use something like pic related to connect consoles via component to a monitor?

>> No.2505270

>>2505265
no idea what that is, exactly. If it's ypbpr to VGA, sure.

Up higher in the thread we talk about how to do it by XOR'ing the horizontal and vertical syncs into composite sync.

>> No.2505281

I've got an external degaussing tool. Will it affect my CRTs if it's activated while they're turned off? I've got units I need to fix one at a time, but they're in the same room.

>> No.2505289

>>2505156
What is that I don't even...

I think you meant split the sync, but even then...

VGA is RGBHV. The DC alone outputs that. The other 6th gen would have to output 480p as RGBS at least, and then you could split the sync using an LM1881 or similar. But no console outputs 480p as RGBS.

Instead, he'd need a component-VGA converter box to use a 31kHz/PC CRT, i believe.

Better to get a 480p capable CRT TV like >>2505207 suggests.

>> No.2505294

>>2505281
yep, it should work. You're affecting the residual magnetism. Just make sure you know how to use it right.

>> No.2505302

>>2505289
Ahhh, my bad. I think you just forgot to mention the converter box? I jumped to conclusions.

>> No.2505358

>>2505289
>VGA is RGBHV. The DC alone outputs that. The other 6th gen would have to output 480p as RGBS at least, and then you could split the sync using an LM1881 or similar. But no console outputs 480p as RGBS.
Get a PC Monitor that supports RGsB. That'd get you DC support(RGBHV), (limited) PS2 support(RGsB), and if you felt like dropping the money on the cable and modding it, GC support(RGBHV).
Alternatively, if you have a Wii, you could get on of those "Wii VGA Cables" and play GC that way.

>> No.2505456

>>2505289
yes, sorry, I meant split. :P

you don't need a converter box if you use RGB directly ;)

also, if you go the PVM route you can use both component and RGB.

>> No.2505458

has anyone tried rgb modding their TV? http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=284 I'm going to try it this weekend. My TV has the same jungle IC that mikejmoffit's tv has. hopefully it will work.

>> No.2505459

>>2505458
yes, people have done it.

I have not because I have a nice TV already that has RGB inputs.

>> No.2505592

>>2504289
100* high today, northern nevada

>> No.2505602

>>2504224
sold the fucker for $100. My mom answered the door and wanted it off her street, plus the guy who came all the way out to BFE to see it guilted us into selling it to him. We think he and his weird family were gyspies.

>> No.2505704

>>2504289
>>2505592
How could that anon tell it was hot..?

>> No.2505818
File: 20 KB, 400x300, Sony CRT..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505818

Got a Sony KV-30HS420 for $10, but no remote. How important is 'full analog signal passthrough' for Gen 6 consoles doing 480p widescreen? Supposedly I can use the service menu to disable the digital 'enhancement' the TV does to component inputs.

Have the TV connected to a PS3 via HDMI, and looks great except for a little overscan that also needs to be fixed.

>> No.2505820

I have a basic Sony CRT that has served me well for a year or so. Yesterday it went off violently(loud, loud powering down sound) and upon turning it back on the screen has a strong red tint to everything. Colors way off. Yoshi in Super Smash Brothers looks metallic blue on his default color.

Any ideas as to what this could be? Even possibly fixable for someone with minimal electronics knowledge?

>> No.2505838

Is there a reason these aren't '/VR/T Threads'?

>> No.2505859

Hmm, been trying to play some games on wiisx, but the quality seemed blurry, just hooked up my Ps1 instead but I've been forced to use s-video rather than component.

It already looks a bit better, but is component even capable with the ps1? When I tried it I just got the screen tear.

>> No.2505864

>>2505859
To clarify, it looks a bit sharper, but I'm not sure if it looks great or not either.. looks sharper but kinda eh as well. I feel like it could just be the game.

>> No.2505891
File: 654 KB, 3280x2460, 102_3175.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505891

>>2505859
>but is component even capable with the ps1? When I tried it I just got the screen tear.
PS1 will do RGB; PS2 will do RGB or Component.
Same pins for RGB are used for Component, so that screen tearing was RGB with a lack of sync.

>> No.2505953
File: 23 KB, 720x960, 11694245_1182369968455621_1277727801_n[1].jpg_oh=c0a2f193577114280adc97d6e2ffc23c&oe=5594D8B3&__gda__=1435811975_62103e17860dbca3b3f1a5b04c17.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505953

Is there anything I can do about these issues? I assume they're what you guys refer to as geometry issues.

As you can see the lines should be straight but curve a bit around the edges and seem to cut into an angle around the top third of the screen as well.

Looks fine in Smash which I use the tv for mostly, but the edges curving is really noticeable in an rpg like this.

>> No.2505962

>>2505953
Do you have the remote and a console that you can run the 240p test suite on? Because it looks like wrong geometry.
Also, Digimon World 2003 is one of the best JRPGs on the console.

>> No.2505964

>>2505962
Nah no remote. Got this second hand, and there's very little information on it.
It's this one >>2503140

>> No.2505968

>>2505964
Try to get a universal remote and hook it up to your TV and try >>2503306. Because there isn't much you can do if it isn't a well known TV.

>> No.2505987
File: 2.97 MB, 1125x2000, 20150629_214159.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2505987

man, FBA looks like shit on wii composite
i know its composite, but the snes\MD games are way more colorful

shame i cant figure out this bloody universal remote

>> No.2505997

>>2505987
I was fiddling around with wii ps1 emulation. Not sure what it was but everything looked blurrier than it does on the actual console, and the colours seem similar, if not better, even though I had to drop from component to s-video

>> No.2506005

>>2505997
any luck ?
its a shame most cheap consoles struggle with ps1 emulation, even a lot of stuff i tried on the og xbox didnt work

i wonder what life would be like with a modded 360 or ps3 but then you dont have 240p

>> No.2506079

>>2506005
Honestly, wasn't many settings I could fiddle with, so I'm just playing on my actual playstation 1 instead. Feels like it looks better, little disappointed though, hope it's not like this for all the emulators.

>> No.2506096

What are the differences between CRT's and projection CRT's? I know Projection ones are meant to be bad, but not sure why.

>> No.2506105

>>2506096

Projection aren't bad, it's just that they aren't well suited for vidyas. Its the rear-projection TVs that are bad.

>> No.2506108

>>2506105
Pls esplain why not suitable for vidya/why rear is bad.

>> No.2506127

>>2506108

Not suited for vidya because they didn't benefit from classic CRTs burn in protection (the aluminum coating inside the tube) while being more prone to burn ins to begin with, so score bars and various HUDs damage these devices pretty easily. As for rear projection, everything I saw from them was just plain bad -- maybe it's just me who end up seeing badly adjusted ones and never saw one that have been finely tuned, but I alway saw them display meh pictures.

>> No.2506184

>>2505358
How do the Wii VGA cables convert the signal? I'm assuming the Wii outputs component at 480p, and the cable turns it into VGA/RGBHV?

>> No.2506486

>>2505859
If you just get a cheap component + composite 4 RCA cable for your PS2 and use the composite lead for sync, you can simply set it to RGB in the menu and play PS1 games that way (or just keep it on component and forego that lead). PS1 only outputs RGB.

>> No.2506503

>>2506486
I appreciate the help, but I don't even have a ps2 mang. Plus that seems like a lot of effort.

Albeit, thank you.

>> No.2506512

>>2505820
Could be a number of things related to the video board, or even a gun issue.

I will tell you that there is nothing easy about fixing a CRT, they are somewhat complicated and pretty dangerous. You might be better off getting a new one.

>> No.2506521

>>2506127
Rear projections are infamous for being shit but I've seen some pretty good ones.
I've just also seen some really, really bad ones.

Also I'm pretty sure you can't get scanlines on proj/rear proj? So if that's a factor they come up short too.

>> No.2506741

>>2506184
That's exactly it.

>> No.2507343

I've setup my PVM-2042QM in tate with my Saturn through rgbs. Problem is I can't get sound through the rgb mode only through composite and s-video. The way I have it setup the audio cables also carry the neg so if I don't have them plugged in, even if I can't hear the sound, the screen is really dark. What can I do?

>> No.2507617
File: 1.39 MB, 2000x3000, IMG_4057.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2507617

Roll over KX-14CP1, the PVM-20M4E is in town.

This will last until I find a PVM-2030/2130QM at least.

>> No.2507704

>>2507617
Is there a specific reason you want a ~500 line 2030 over an 800 line M4?
Too sharp?

>> No.2507723

>>2507704
Yeah I'll swap you my 2042qm in a heart beat

>> No.2507828

>>2507704
Eh, I just think they're the most aesthetically pleasing but when you put it like that...

>> No.2508114

New thread >>2508102

>> No.2508115

New thread >>2508102