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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 1.64 MB, 3280x2460, 101_9925.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2437383 No.2437383 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread - >>2411195

This thread is for the spirited discussion of CRT displays - Televisions, monitors and projectors used for the playing of retro games!

These past few threads have been great, keep it up!

>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast). Slight OT might be okay if related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.) Systems with backwards compatibility are also pretty safe territory, assuming you're focusing on the older games. PC CRTs are also a-ok.
>Produce OC! Get out your real cameras and take beautiful pictures of your CRTs displaying recognizable characters with the kind of beautiful accuracy that brings tears to the eyes of young and old alike! If you take 100 photos, at least one of them will turn out alright!
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend, and we are your friends with benefits. Older archived threads aren't a bad place to look either.
>Share appreciation for others choice of technology and personal philosophy of gaming. As always show courtesy in your discussion and moderate yourselves first.

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x
Thread Survey: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbzx=9009823977812318933

>> No.2437758

Are CRT repair services still a thing? My FW900 is on its last legs, and I'd love to have someone who knows what they're talking about to take a look at it.

>> No.2437817

I'm having a problem with the picture on certain SNES games and weirdly they all seem to be konami games (Looney tunes and axelay). There is a slight roll on the screen. No other games have this. Is this normal/ or there a reason for it? I'm using rgb

>> No.2438012
File: 2.37 MB, 2560x1600, 20150517_120141.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2438012

>>2437383
IM GILLIAN SEED AND I GET BUSY


HITTING ON ALL THE GIRLS IN NEO KOBE

>> No.2438045
File: 49 KB, 1024x768, 6.28.11ng100_6106.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2438045

>>2437038

Thanks for the info. I'm assuming there are RCA female to BNC male adaptors and that they are needed for plugging into pic related?

And why do the input connectors look slightly different from the output ones? And can you use the outputs to record gameplay?

>> No.2438080
File: 28 KB, 500x500, $_12.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2438080

>>2438045
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-Lot-BNC-Male-Plug-to-RCA-Female-Jack-Coax-Cable-Video-Adapter-Connector-/311287993951?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item487a35d65f

Not him, but these are the correct ones, yes?

>> No.2438184

>>2438080
Yes. Those can be used for both the inputs and outputs, right?

>> No.2438205

>>2438045
>Thanks for the info. I'm assuming there are RCA female to BNC male adaptors and that they are needed for plugging into pic related?
Yes, but if you're looking to use RGB, a SCART to BNC breakout cable is what you'd be looking for. RCA->BNC are useful for composite and component though.

>And can you use the outputs to record gameplay?
Yes

>>2438184
Also yes.

>> No.2438442

Anyone familiar with the Trinitron model Kv 1770r? I saw one at an estate sale today for $20, I regret not at at least checking out what inputs it has. If anyone knows what it has it would be great, so I don't waist my time going back if it doesn't have at least AV. Its one of those ones that has a flat glass pane covering the curved screen, a design I'm very fond of.

>> No.2438489

>>2437383
How to input AV to a PVM

>> No.2438582

I ordered an s-video cable for my Saturn on Amazon...I deliberately ordered one where the images showed cables without the composite cable attached. I just got it and it's a retro-bit cable with the composite attached.

So, my question is...Are these just as good picture-wise or are they lower in quality? I swear I read somewhere that the s-video cables with the composite cable attached aren't as good. Should I complain and return it since it's not what's shown in the images? I didn't really overpay.

>> No.2438609

>>2438489

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BNC-Male-to-RCA-Female-Connector-Coupler-for-CCTV-Security-Cable-wholesale-/201328133034?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2ee01783aa

>> No.2438627

>>2438582
>I swear I read somewhere that the s-video cables with the composite cable attached aren't as good.
They're much more likely to be running dual composite instead of separate luma and chroma. That tends to introduce crosshatching into the image and makes it look bad. Whether it'd be worse than composite is arguable and depends on how the set in question process it.

>> No.2438715

>>2438627

Okay...Do you (or anybody else here) know anything about the retro-bit brand cables specifically as far as quality goes? Do they use this "dual composite" or true s-video in their cables?

The picture seems okay for the most part, but the Capcom logo and title screen on Bio Hazard seem a bit blurry and wonky (the Sega logo and the game itself including the opening FMV looks alright)...But since that's the only place in any of my games that look bad, it could just be the game.

>> No.2438738

>>2438715
See if you can test it with a multimeter. Google for the Saturn AV pinout, and any s-video pinout, and buy a $10 meter.

Googling it shows me a box that looks *exactly* the same as the KMD/Komodo one, minus the logo. KMD is shit. My guess would be twin composite lines, but you won't know until you test it, or cut it open near the Saturn plug.

I've always suspected Retrobit's cables were nasty, but their other stuff like N64 expansion packs are ok.

If you're not sure in future, make sure to ask the seller if it's running true S-Video, or just passing two composite lines through the S-Video plug. When they say they have no idea what you mean, just keep asking until they crack.

>> No.2438768

>>2438738

Okay...Thanks. I might just take the plunge and buy an official s-video cable off of eBay despite the price at this point.

>> No.2438775

>>2438609
What ports should I stick these in, also is 8 inches a nice size crt for a desk close to me

>> No.2438804
File: 1.60 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2438804

Playing FF7 again currently because it's an easy play, that and pokemon gold on the super gameboy player.

>> No.2438810
File: 1.79 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2438810

>>2438804
Upside down, killer.
Watch this one be the same way.

>> No.2438814

>>2438804
is it so hard to rotate images?

>> No.2438827

>>2438814
I actually took the picture landscape on my phone to prevent sideways but for some reason it went for upside down even though it's fine in the library. Why'd you even reply when I immediately said I fucked up?

>> No.2438830

>>2438814
4chan fucks up the metadata that's supposed to rotate these things upon viewing, apparently

>> No.2438851

>>2438775
see
>>2438045
Line A and Line B in will give you composite video.

R-Y, Y, B-Y in will give you component video, but you'll need to go into the PVM's menu to make sure it's set to "Comp-Int Sync"

RGB would connect to the same as the above, but will need a breakout cable for using SCART and will need to be set to "RGB-Ext Sync"

>> No.2438864

>>2438851
Alright thanks, needed an upgrade for a year now, my crt blew.

>> No.2438931

>>2438810
messy rooms are best rooms.

>> No.2439079

>>2438810
>great retro stuff
>CRT great for retro
>two 360s
>on a non-HD TV nonetheless
>two guitars
>but they're metalbro guitars
not sure how i feel anon

>> No.2439096

>>2438810
you really got an Xbox running on a CRT? Damn some of you retro niggas are terrible. Filthy ass room too.

>> No.2439153
File: 1.81 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439153

>>2439079
>>2439096
I wasn't showing the third tv friends. The xbox is running my shows on the HDTV.

Thanks for noticing the guitars though. Also in the side slots of the entertainment stand is a SNES and an NES.

>> No.2439190

>>2439153
Whoa! What's the game on the left!?

>> No.2439194

>>2439096
>>2439079
>two 360s
>on a non-HD TV nonetheless
I'm not entirely sure, but as far as I know running the Xbox 360 on a HD set isn't much of an advantage, granted that most games will look like a blurry mess with cropped edges and awful color. This console simply isn't capable of true high resolutions. I've seen many people who claim it is better to set the console on 1280x1024 instead of full hd because the console won't upscale the image and neither the TV. I'm not entirely sure if this is the logic, but there are proven claims that this is the optimal resolution which gives the best image possible - at least one that won't make your eyes bleed as the Xbox 360 and PS3 do in full hd-. Also, the Xbox supports VGA, so I think it will grant a far superior image on a CRT monitor at 1280x1024 if compared to a full hd set, as far as you are willing to tolerate letterboxing.

>> No.2439219

>>2439190
Not a game kek.
It's the show I'm watching on my 360.

Also just so people know the 2nd xbox is unused/beat to hell/OG phat from 07. The large tv that's on in the entertainment stand has a slim ps2 hooked up primarily for playing ps1 rpgs, and a Super Nintendo hooked up. It's a CRT. The older tv next to the HDTV has the genesis and the NES hooked up. The HDTV has the xbox hooked up to it.

>> No.2439335
File: 2.98 MB, 4608x3456, snes-town-3mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439335

>>2437758
Well I am anon, but if you can clarify what's wrong maybe I can help.

Disclaimer: I am not professionally trained. I only do this as a hobby. But I have not killed myself yet...

>> No.2439387
File: 3.40 MB, 2304x5184, sneswiring2-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439387

>>2438205
> if you're looking to use RGB, a SCART to BNC breakout cable is what you'd be looking for. RCA->BNC are useful for composite and component though.
Not quite. You can always do pic related, like I did.
Then the RCA->BNC jacks are exactly what you need.

>> No.2439398

>>2439387
note that I only used so many capacitors because I only could find one 220uf in my collection and didn't want to order anything online. This is also the reason why I did this instead of buying two cables.
Also, adapters can be detrimental to signal quality, but that's a minor concern. I just didn't want to worry about what would happen if I misplaced a cable somewhere. RCA's are plentiful and easy to replace.

>> No.2439404

Acquired my second PVM-9045QM (8045Q) today. I had a 14" and a 20" already, figured I'd buy the first 8" to to try shit out with. But man I love it, it's become my main display for retro. So much fun I needed a second just in case :)

>> No.2439429

>>2439398
Hope you remembered to place them in parallel not series ;)

And what mod is that? The Caps would probably work at a much higher value too... if it's an RGB amp or something, that is.

>> No.2439431

>>2439404
pics
nao

How is an 8 inch? Isn't it a bit... small?

If you want scan lines close together but distinct, my old apple II monitor is my go-to screen every time.

>> No.2439438

>>2439429
That's my mod. Not aware of anyone who did it before, but I just drilled holes and added jacks, and added the capacitors that are supposed to be in the SCART cable.

BTW, it's nothing to do with the amp. It's a high pass filter to remove the 1V DC that is combined with the R/G/B lines. Higher values would potentially interfere with the quality of the picture. Lower would leave the image too bright.

I got the pinouts and the correct capacitor value here. It didn't describe why they were there, but I know from experience that that's what the caps do here.

>> No.2439447
File: 3.23 MB, 4608x3456, sneschrono1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439447

>>2439429
no shit, thats why they are next to each other with the wires in the middle :P

From the pics I'm getting, I'm pretty sure it's done right. And yes, it is definitely parallel.
And the polarity is right too.

Positive leg always towards the console, negative leg towards the TV/monitor.

>> No.2439456

>>2439438
Cool not criticising, i was kinda curious.

>>2439431
Kinda, but I'm right on top of it cos it's on the desk. The 9045/8045 models are the 450TVL units, so they look pretty great. Right now i'm playing notretro PS3 on it and it's good for that too.

>> No.2439479

>>2439438
>>2439456
oh crap, forgot link to where 'here' is.

http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav

>> No.2439489

>>2439429
To clarify, there is no RGB amp here beyond what the SNES already had. If there were, there'd either be an IC or a LOT more components on the board.

>> No.2439656

>>2439447
I really like the idea of foregoing SCART. After fiddling around with SCART I do personally prefer individual wires for each channel. Plus, if your cable has a problem like breakage or anything like that you can just replace it with another set of dirt cheap cables. I think I would go with a proprietary connector -> small breakout box type of situation though as I'm not comfortable with my ability to cut into my consoles. Only one I would ever do anything like that with is the genesis because CANT BE HELPED.

>> No.2439661

>>2439656
>I really like the idea of foregoing SCART
Problem is that most sets either use it or don't, so the decision is made that way and you have little to do with it.

>> No.2439668
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2439668

>> No.2439676

>>2439668
is that a 606

>> No.2439681
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2439681

>> No.2439685

>>2439479

I doubt higher values would interfere much with the picture, but i'd want to try it before making any promises

>http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:nintendomultiav
Yeah the info at Gamesx is really handy :)

>> No.2439702

>>2439656
>proprietary connector

What?

>> No.2439709
File: 3.28 MB, 1504x846, NECXP29Plus1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439709

Going to post some shots from two of mine. Hopefully soon I can figure out how to better take photos of CRT screens.

From my NEC XP29+.

>> No.2439716
File: 3.34 MB, 1450x817, NECXP29Plus2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439716

>>2439709
Same monitor.

>> No.2439718
File: 3.40 MB, 1487x837, MS8.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2439718

>>2439716
One from my Astro City's Nanao MS8.

Any particular genre of arcade games that people would want to see on this monitor?

>> No.2439761

>>2439718
CPS1 and a little CPS2, please!

>> No.2439848

I connected my SNES to my 20L2 PVM via composite. Now, the monitor only has one input for audio, but no matter which cable (right or left) I put in, it affects the picture, making it look noisy. If I put in both audio cables, putting on of them into the audio output port, the picture is a lot better.

Even stranger, when I put in none of the audio cables, I don't get any picture at all and the screen says 'No Sync'! What's going on here?

>> No.2439859

shit grounding on the cable/pvm ? Shielding on video cable might be broken, happens near rca plug most of the time.
did you try another cable/console ? You can use a N64 / GC composite cable with the SNES

>> No.2439995

>>2439848
Try another console like >>2439859 says, and report back.

>> No.2440134

>>2438205
Is it possible to record gameplay in RGB rather than YPbPr (as in, are there any capture cards or PVRs that have RGB inputs instead of YPbPr)?

>> No.2440314
File: 2.41 MB, 1685x926, composite.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440314

http://nerdlypleasures.blogsp0t.com/2015/03/the-case-for-composite.html

What do you think of this, /crt/?

>> No.2440340

>>2440314
I agree that things like the glass and waterfalls in Sonic do look more interesting I'm composite, the overall image is definitely better in RGB.

>> No.2440402
File: 100 KB, 298x750, Megaplay2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440402

>>2440314
>>2440340
I think if it was good enough for the arcade then it's good enough for me.

>> No.2440454

>>2440314

I think this shit is overblown, unless you're stuck on the monitor, all these "composite only" effects still work well enough in RGB. Yes, American devs claim they optimized the graphics for composite video, but most of these effects were also used on RGB only systems, and the ones that weren't look good enough in RGB.

>> No.2440523

>>2439335

It acts like it's going to explode when you first turn it on. It flashes bright blue, the image is all distorted, and sometimes the entire image collapses into blob of rainbow colors. Once it warms up, the image stabilizes and everything's fine, but I imagine it's going to get worse and worse until it's no longer usable.

>> No.2440726
File: 1.18 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4442.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440726

>>2440454
His choice of example for Earthworm Jim was poorly chosen.

Rather than point out the fringes of the mountains, why not use the smoke in What the Heck. Very noticeable outside of composite.

>> No.2440876

>>2440726

Naah, even in this level it's not as bad looking in RGB as they state.

>> No.2440890
File: 817 KB, 2048x1152, 20150531_214001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440890

Yo CRT dudes.

I picked up this Panasonic BT-H1450y recently. I apologise for the shitty lighting, but it appears to be displaying things with black bars at the top and bottom, almost like it's trying to do widescreen. None of the buttons on the front seem to help, though there are some holes on the back labled 'height' and 'width', with screws inside.
Do I really just have to jam a screwdriver in there to adjust or what?

>> No.2440893
File: 1.49 MB, 2048x1152, 20150531_213904.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440893

>>2440890
The holes on the back.

>> No.2440908
File: 5 KB, 640x480, GRID.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440908

>>2440890
>>2440893

Yup, those are definitely adjustment screws, just use the right screw driver and carefully turn them to adjust the set. I'd recommend you to use patterns like pic related for your adjustments (the red squares being what you're NOT really supposed to see entirely).

>> No.2440948

Is it possible to get native 200p 70Hz from a DOS game?

>> No.2440980

>>2440876
Of course not, but it's more plainly obvious since it's in the foreground rather than background or platforms.

>>2440890
Before you going changing all that up, have you tried adjusting the region switch on the front?

>> No.2440984
File: 2.63 MB, 2448x3264, DSC_0122.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2440984

I have a Bang&Olufsen MX7000 TV with this remote control, and I can't how to have acces to the Service menu for my model.
Menu-1-1-Go doesn't work.

Pic: MX7000 + Snes + Flashback, all is PAL.

>> No.2441370
File: 2.74 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20150308_171501.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2441370

>>2440948
Not natively, no. Only way you'd accomplish that is by actually inserting scanlines, like so.

>> No.2441385
File: 59 KB, 1024x576, crt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2441385

>>2440890 here, I managed to find a screwdriver to mess with the holes and adjust. It looks a lot better now, though the width still needs adjusting. It's very temperamental though, and a pain in the ass to change so this'll have to do for now.
>>2440980
Yeah, I've tried that. It just changed the colours slightly.

>> No.2441478

>>2440134
Yes, the PEXHDCAP from StarTech supports 15kHz RGB through it's DVI port via an adapter. You do need to have something like a SyncStrike or a sync seperator circuit to get it to sync to said video, though.

>> No.2441482

>>2439661
Yeah, I was assuming that this guy is in America where we basically don't have it all to begin with.

>>2439702
Proprietary as in Multi-out on SNES or PSX etc

>> No.2441508

>>2440454
Yeah this article is horse cock because hes basically comparing this shit via screenshots from an emulator presented to you, which most likely you are viewing using an LCD monitor. On an actual monitor you don't have the same sharpness as an LCD and these effects actually still do have some sort of presence. Plus, these effects aren't even something that you pay much attention to while actually, you know, playing the game?

>> No.2441516

ive had the same crt for 17 years still works no problem, and i used it about 12 hours a day nearly every day don't know the model it's a sylvania

>> No.2441534

>>2441482
>2439661
>Yeah, I was assuming that this guy is in America where we basically don't have it all to begin with.

It occurred to me after posting that he might have been talking about an amp or breakout for a console without one. So for that he's use individual lines, rather than SCART-SCART. I think most of us would do it the same way though.

>> No.2441956

>>2441482
>Proprietary as in Multi-out on SNES or PSX etc

Oh, I though you were talking about the SCART socket being proprietary. Sorry, I shouldn't really post at such hours in the morning with that reading comprehension of mine.

>> No.2441987
File: 1.58 MB, 1600x1200, IMG_0751.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2441987

it's cloud motherfucker

>> No.2442028

What do we know about the Sony PVM-922OME? I'm dammed if I can find anything about it. Looks lower spec/older than the 9045/8045 range...?

>> No.2442171
File: 1.61 MB, 1920x1080, IMG_0861.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442171

>> No.2442181
File: 973 KB, 1920x1080, IMG_0827.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442181

Since it's June 1st, I played some Ocarina. I do it every year, but this year I have a PVM-2030 and MDR-V6s. It's pretty fuckin baller my brothers.

>> No.2442182

>>2442181

i salute thee anon.

>> No.2442196
File: 959 KB, 1920x1080, IMG_0873.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442196

>>2442182
Thanks holmes. Today's the start of a my annual weeklong vacation, and I just got promoted at work. Ocarina is my favorite game from back in the day, and it looks perfect through s-video on a PVM and sounds heavenly through good Sony cans. Life is good, good, good

Being an adult is so fuckin rad, I never had a rumble pack as a kid and this itchy motherfucker was always talking shit about me.

>> No.2442210
File: 366 KB, 640x480, ocarina.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442210

Bought the cart used on eBay, the two players before me both made pretty good progress. I'll 100% the game someday in their honor

>> No.2442215
File: 1.39 MB, 1920x1080, IMG_0868.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442215

>>2442210
I did pretty good last year. Killed a lotta Skulltulas, caught the biggest Child-era fish. Got 3 Beans, gotta find out where they go.

>> No.2442273
File: 93 KB, 1000x988, 11037378_10152666664931643_1719342099107083372_o.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442273

Someone' selling a JVC TM-H150C (15") monitor not too far from me. It has the input card for RGB/component as well. He wants ~$134 for it. Is that an ok price?

>> No.2442281

>>2442273
http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/MONITOR/brochure/tmh150cg.pdf

Looks pretty nice

>> No.2442283

>>2442273
There is also a Bang & Olufsen MX7000 for ~$66 in the same area. Are they as good as sonys?

>> No.2442297

>>2440984
Does the MX 7000 have any digital processing?

https://youtu.be/67-zRVsHhjk?t=179

Is it possible to turn it off?

>> No.2442313

>>2442283
Ideally you'd get both. B&Os are high end consumer sets. The MX7000 has a 28 inch screen and accepts s-video and composite, PLUS two scart ports that can accept RGB. Its form factor is beautiful too.

>> No.2442329

>>2442273
Price is pretty steep, make sure the set is in amazing condition and decide if you want to spend that much.

>> No.2442373

>>2442313
>>2442297
Is B&O even good? Sure, they look classy and are probably excellent for shadow masks, but Trinitrons are better, no?

>> No.2442389

>>2442297
Looks like the MX 7000 does not use digital processing in the first place.

>> No.2442390

>>2442373
B&O and Loewe are more design than function. Also, they come with loads of processing gimmicks, many of them aren't switchable.

>> No.2442392
File: 793 KB, 2048x1536, HP14_POP_close2x.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442392

>>2441370
[insert nvidia tagline here]

>> No.2442458
File: 328 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442458

Months ago we finally went and removed our RPTV of 10 years. 65" 1080i Toshiba rear projection. Pretty sure it will natively handle 480p, 720p, and 1080i. Of course we had to disassemble it to trash the frame and then dispose of the actual electronics properly. I took some pictures.

>> No.2442459
File: 313 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_024.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442459

The actual electronics in the RPTV are quite small compared to the overall size.

>> No.2442462
File: 295 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_011.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442462

All three tubes on.

>> No.2442464
File: 168 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442464

When turned on the first 10 minutes of use would have terrible wavy lines over the image. You can see the wavy lines here over the static image.

>> No.2442481
File: 314 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_031.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442481

All three tubes extracted.

>> No.2442483
File: 275 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_034.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442483

>> No.2442485
File: 229 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_036.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442485

If you look close enough you can tell we watched a lot of 4:3 content as the center of the image is more worn out creating a bit of a pillarbox effect.

>> No.2442489
File: 274 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_035.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442489

This must have been one of the tubes on the side judging by how the geometry is off a bit.
Looking at >>2442458 shows how they are tilted in a bit. So to converge it properly one must first set the geometry for the individual tube right. In this case since it is tilted in the geometry must be set to reflect that tilt I guess. That must be a real headache.

>> No.2442491
File: 405 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_022.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442491

About the same amount of electronics as a normal CRT.

>> No.2442496
File: 336 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_032.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442496

I would warn anyone taking apart an RPTV to not remove the lens to expose it like this >>2442483 because you'll spill some sort of liquid everywhere.

>> No.2442498
File: 241 KB, 918x1632, WP_20150305_017.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442498

Some analog controls.

>> No.2442502
File: 211 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_013.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442502

Big ass mirror.

>> No.2442505
File: 237 KB, 1632x918, WP_20150305_014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442505

And the screen.

>> No.2442507

>>2438814
You must be new here friend.

>> No.2442652

>>2442181
What are you using to drive the headphones?

>> No.2442654

does anyone here take pictures of their CRT with a DSLR?, what settings do you use

>> No.2442854
File: 1.03 MB, 2480x3508, Cheat-Sheet-by-lukezeme1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2442854

>>2442654
To keep things simple:

M mode (manual)
ISO 400 (to get some more light sensitivity, while still not gaining too much grain)

Use an aperture that is about 2 stops above your maximum aperture. Example: maximum aperture is f/2.8, then use f/5.6. Most lenses are sharpest between f/4 to f/8 (there are of course exceptions)

Shutter speed
Use a tripod or something to keep your camera STILL. Try experimenting with different speeds to see what gives you the best results. Something too fast can freeze the dark CRT "refresh lines" (??) in place. Something too slow will blur any movements on the screen.

Maybe try "dodging" the refresh lines with a high shutter speed

I dunno... I tried

>> No.2443151

new phonedork video, if anyone enjoys them
"Classic Gaming on a Sony BVM A24E1WU" - https://youtu.be/ffiR4E1id-8

>> No.2443469
File: 12 KB, 337x450, 00s0s_4vlHlYiaFTl_600x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443469

Saw this 32" Trinitron on Craigslist for $60. Is this a good deal?

>> No.2443482
File: 76 KB, 631x566, resetglitchabuse.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2443482

So /crt/, I've been running into some troubles.

My Wii is hooked up to a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 91TXm via component 480p adapted to BNC. It's primarily for non-retro, otherwise I'd just be playing same things in 240p. Anyway, the problem, afaik, is that the wii is putting out ypbpr, and the monitor is seeing RGB, so I'm getting a signal that's pic related.

I could further hack this Wii, I could maybe change a monitor setting, but if it exists it's in the service menu. I could also convert the ypbpr to RGB 480p, but I don't know the best way to do it. Note that the CRT does take in external sync if needed. Thoughts?

>> No.2443502

you need to convert to RGB, I dunno if there are DIY schematics for this. The fact that you monitor accept Sync-on-green might ease the conversion.

But apparently, there are some vga cables for wii/ps3, might be worth

>> No.2443523

>>2442505
Thx for the series, i liked seeing the little tubes for each colour.

>> No.2443873

>>2443482

So I have to ask; why does Samus A have like a million E-Tanks?

>> No.2444191

>>2443873
Super metroid has this glitch that allows you to reset the game and keep everything besides your missile tanks, so beat it several times, and once I realized that they render the tanks off the edge like that, I made it my goal to make a save file where you have enough energy tanks to go off screen.

>> No.2444285

>>2442854
thanks anon, this image is great.
reminds me of the info threads on /b/ back in 2009 or so

>> No.2444295

>>2440314
Mind blown. I had no idea the rainbow effect on the tubes was not due to software but hardware.

>> No.2444596
File: 1.19 MB, 3280x2460, 101_4559.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2444596

>>2443151
I guess he had already done the commentary for the PS2 component/RGB portion of the video when I talked to him a week or two ago. Either that or he was just trying to avoid further complicating things.

>> No.2444617

>>2443482
you need to get component to vga transcoder

>> No.2444695

>>2444596
did you feel he got something wrong?

>> No.2444724

>>2442283
>>2442273
>>2442313
I went and had a look at the MX 7000.

Image quality and sound was amazing, but it had a pretty loud and very annoying high pitched noise from the tube... is this normal? I thought higher end CRTs had less of that?

I did not get it. I can't stand sounds like that.

>> No.2444732

>>2440984
>http://nerdlypleasures.blogsp0t.com/2015/03/the-case-for-composite.html
Does yours have a high pitched noise? >>2444724

>> No.2444881

>>2443151
fuck yes, how did I miss this? phonedork is a fucken crt god

>> No.2444910

>>2444732
I have no Idea why I quoted that

>> No.2444962

I have a 13 inch no-name TV that only has RCA inputs. How much more necessary would a TV with S-Video be? Keeping in mind that I live in super rural Canada and it might be impossible to find one unless I drive for at least 4 hours, and that's only to get to the destination.

>> No.2444976

>>2444962
There's a big difference in sharpness and color quality between composite (yellow RCA) and s-video. Next time you're in the city, go through any Goodwills or local thrift shops and try to find a Trinitron with s-video or component (red, green, blue RCA). You won't know how big the difference is until you compare the two side by side.

The life of an A/V person is continually finding higher and higher grade equipment and signals.

>> No.2444982

>>2444976
I live in Rural Newfoundland. What is this "city" you speak of?

>> No.2445205

>>2444982
St. John's (106,172)
Conception Bay South (24,848)
Mount Pearl (24,284)
Corner Brook (20,886)

Your island's wikipedia article is pretty helpful. George Street sounds like a cool place to party.

>> No.2445217
File: 885 KB, 1368x834, nes multiout i am too retarded.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2445217

Can you guys give me a hand with choosing some cables? A fair deal of guidance is needed here.

I sent off my NES toploader to have Tim Worthington's RGB board installed with the multiout connector. I have two tvs I'd like to use it on: a CRT with an S-Video input and rear projection tv with component (YPbPr), composite and HDMI inputs.

If I'm correct, (and I may be wrong) my best option would be to use the theoretical set up I've sketched up in pic related. Some questions though:

#1 Is there a Nintendo YPbPr out cable I could use instead?
#2 Or is there some sort of converter/scaler for HDMI I could use?
#3 Additionally where should I get these cables and are there any brands I should look for or avoid?

I've heard retro-console-accessories offers good quality SCART cables but I'm uncertain about the S-Video out and the SCART->YPbPr converter or if I even need SCART cables

>> No.2445236

>>2445217
if installed correctly :
-the multiav out carries rgb and svideo, you can use svideo with a snes/n64/gc svideo cable, as the one in your pic.
-as an option there's an additional TRRS socket that carries component signal. A TRRS breakout enables component connection with phono connectors.
http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=203&rn=549&action=show_detail

did you ask for the component out install ?

>> No.2445262

>>2445217
>>2445236
you can't use RGB directly with a tv with component, don't let the cable colors fool you. Either you use the additional board and TRRS socket, or you convert RGB+sync to component.

>> No.2445263

>>2444976
I honestly think I prefer composite video to component for my Genesis. With it, the colors bleed into new shades. With better output, you instead can see the all the dithering.

>> No.2445273

>>2445236
>did you ask for the component out install ?

I did not, between the mod itself, some additional maintenance work and shipping costs I've spent $300+ and assumed the multiout would be acceptable as in the long run (when I have more disposable income) I could invest in a Framemeister when I replace this rear projection tv with a more modern HDTV (a project that is probably about 1-2 years out).

The solution I'm looking for for the current rear projection TV i've been playing on is more or less meant to be a temporary one.

>>2445262
So, given that I do intend to get the SCART out cable in the long run for use with a framemeister, I guess my big question here is: what sort of converter is best (on a budget) for RGB+sync to component? Is this something that requires a powered converter?

>> No.2445289

>>2445273
>what sort of converter is best (on a budget) for RGB+sync to component?
I have no idea. Also, it might all be in vain if your tv doesn't support 240p over component. Check this page :
http://www.hdretrovision.com/240p/

>Is this something that requires a powered converter?
yes.

>> No.2445380

>>2441370
I saw a picture of a CRT with a PC game that looked just like 200p and no huge gaps between the lines.

>> No.2445517

>>2444695
https://youtu.be/ffiR4E1id-8?t=23m28s
Not so much wrong, more than likely didn't want to add more complication to an already very long video.

The PS2 is not restricted to component for 480p+ signals. A PS2 in RGB mode will output 480p as RGsB just fine. GSM allows higher resolutions in this mode as well, but I can't say whether games that supports 720p or 1080i natively will as well.
Going the RGB route is more complicated than Component though, as SoG only activates once in 31khz+ mode and as such 240p and 480i sources will still require a dedicated sync line.
PS3 also supports RGsB in 480p as a system wide option, though it's curiously been placed under the RGB SCART category.

>>2445236
That same board apparently works with the SNES as well with a few tweaks to resistor values.

>> No.2445579

>>2445380
If it's the set of pics I'm thinking of, it's from the same dude who took >>2442392. That's still 400p, just that the monitor is of extremely low dot pitch even for its time, so it's slightly blurred and thus does not look pixellated from line-doubling, and there's no scanlines.

>> No.2446694
File: 2.93 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150602_150039.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2446694

Treated my bvm for the first time yesterday

>> No.2446701

>>2446694
*Tated

>> No.2446745
File: 651 KB, 1410x902, a90 a240.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2446745

Got a pair of PC CRTs from my brother-in-law earlier today. Sony HMD A240 and a Viewsonic A90. Both where absolutely disgusting, and just finished cleaning them.
Really hoping for better results from the A90, since a quick test of the Sony didn't give me jack shit. Not sure if there's a problem with the power or what, but the power light is just stuck in an endless loop of flashing green, and I can't even seem to get it to turn off without just pulling the plug. Also a little ticking noise coming inside with each flash. Manual seems to suggest a repeated flashing power indicator is Self Test/Aging, but the sporadicness of it at times makes me wonder.

The A90 has better specs all around than the Sony, but I would just be happy to have a PC Trinny.

>> No.2446882

>>2446694

>Batsugun

Great taste anon, not my favorite Toaplan shooter, but it's still one.

>> No.2447318
File: 193 KB, 944x670, CIMG2099.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2447318

I'm trying to get soft15khz working on an old XP computer I had laying around. I've gotten this far and can't figure out why it isn't displaying properly. Anyone dealt with this before?

>> No.2447597
File: 377 KB, 615x615, what-really-grinds-my-gears_1314884059_enlarge.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2447597

What is the best CRT TV for retro gaming that does not have a very loud high pitched noise?

>> No.2447604

i just got my sony pvm 1354Q, and after scrubbing the piss out of it for an hour, and going through an entire roll of paper towels, it looks almost new. waiting for my bnc to scart female/rca video adapters is suffering

>> No.2447615

>>2447597
Have you tried getting older?

>> No.2447617

>>2447597

The ones made by Man up and deal with it.

>> No.2447628
File: 47 KB, 872x595, 1401359657089.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2447628

>>2447615
>>2447617
I wish I couldn't hear it... but it drives me nuts

>> No.2447632

>>2447628
sometimes, lightly tapping on the top or the side makes the whinning go away, if only for one or two hours.

emphasis on LIGHTLY. Don't go whack-a-mole on it

>> No.2447635

>>2447604
Don't have anything with S-Video?

>>2446745
Flashing with the A240 isn't sporadic anymore but still refuses to power on.
A90 works but I think there may be something up with it's green gun; Seem to get a full color picture but throwing up a full green image results in a black screen. Also a bit of discoloration at the top which neither the built in degauss nor my soldering gun and change.
Looks like I'm still stuck with my Dell for now.

>>2447615
My mother can still hear it so even age isn't a sure bet.

>> No.2447964

My fuckmassive flatscreen just died on me.

When I turned it on there was a loud crack followed by a bunch of faint red static across the screen. I turned it off and on again and there was no picture at all.

Anything (practical) I can do?

>> No.2448394

>>2447597
The one who's flyback transformer isn't all worn out. Eat shit and deal with the sound. It's comforting.

>> No.2448425

>>2438851
Alright so I'd put the Yellow cord into Video in on line a, and the white cord to audio in on line a? Never have touched a bvm before so I feel kinda stupid.

>> No.2448430
File: 197 KB, 912x385, Inputs PVM only.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2448430

>>2448425
Yes

>> No.2448438

>>2448430
Would the red audio cord fit into place anywhere or no? I figure the red cord is to make audio from mono to stereo, and i figure the 8inch bvm is mono.

>> No.2448441

>>2448438
The only way to get stereo out of a PVM is by using an external stereo. Most don't even have sound, but the later ones only do mono audio.

>> No.2448446

>>2448441
Does the Sony BVM-8045QD come with sound? If not do I just output audio and then hook it up to speakers via the red and white hookups?
Just dropped 500 on Musha CIB never played and I want to hear the best music on the genesis

>> No.2448447

>>2448438
Nope, most PVMs are mono audio only if at all. Only stuff like the PVM 2030 has stereo inputs and even then you need the matching speakers.
Only reason I have it hooked up there is a because the composite and s-video connectors are from the same cable.

>> No.2448452

>>2448446
BVMs don't have audio, you'll need a separate audio solution.

>> No.2448458

>>2448452
>>2448447
>>2448452
A-okay thanks.

>> No.2448463

>>2439668
joey diaz like a docta!

>> No.2448490

>>2447318
>I've gotten this far and can't figure out why it isn't displaying properly.
You've gotten as far as... taking a photo?

... that shows, what, exactly? Icon size looks ok to me. Desktop wallpaper is tiled rather then centered, but meh.

Explain better, please. What steps so far, using what hardware/software and OS? What's the result, and how does it differ from what you were expecting or trying to achieve?

>> No.2448496

>>2447964
>loud crack
Burst cap, mb? Not that I'd know, but if you don't know what one is going to look/smell like, you shouldn't be opening the set at all.

>> No.2448574

>>2448452
Last question: Anything I should know before I dive into my BVM, other than what I've asked.

>> No.2448576

>>2443151
What exactly is Phonedork referring to when he mentions the 75 ohm terminals on the RGB out? This is the first I've heard of anyone doing this, and he mentions toning the RGB down, but what benefit does this provide? Are there any picture comparisons?

>> No.2448580

>>2448574
You know how you're going to connect to BNC/Svideo, right? Other than that...

-Keep it out of the sun & protect the screen from burn by never leaving it running when not in use.

-Cover it when not in use to stop dust getting in.

-Lastly, keep it away from unshielded magnets! These can screw the geometry. Your smartphone will have magentic-sensor apps you can download. If you're worried about placing a pair of regular cone speakers next to it, check them out first. The magnetic force will be slightly stronger when they're not in use.

>> No.2448585

>>2448580
Yep, know how to hook up now.
Okay.

Screen can burn in on these? I thought crts weren't (as) prone to it.

Plan on doing since it's an 8incher

Huh, didn't know speaker could have magnets, have any cheap ones that don't?

>> No.2448587

>>2448585
>Screen can burn in on these? I thought crts weren't (as) prone to it.

Though not as susceptible as projection screens, CRTs are very much prone to burn-in. You see it a lot with poorly kept arcade games with either GAME OVER or the score display permanently burned in on the screen.

>> No.2448591

>>2448576
>75 Ohm Terminators
These stop signal reflection in the line. If not used, the image will be a lot brighter, but have a "ghosting" effect like an overlapped second image shifted slightly right (normally). Sometimes you won't notice, sometimes it gets pretty bad. If you can't see much with the terminators on and the brightness/contrast right up, the tube is probably fucked, or the capacitors are.

Terminators aren't just used for RGB either. Any general video/video antenna line terminates at 75 Ohms. It's basically a 75 Ohm resistor between whichever video line and ground, that tricks the signal into acting like the line is infinitely long, and thus has no end to echo back from.

Most PVMs auto-terminate (The squiggly-line markings near the outputs of a PVM-14M4A, for example) or have an option to do so. To open those terminations, if the screen isn't bright enough, say, you could use an RCA-BNC adaptor with nothing plugged into it.

>> No.2448592

>>2448585
>Huh, didn't know speaker could have magnets, have any cheap ones that don't?

ALL speakers have magnets. Some are more shielded than others, is all.

>> No.2448594

>>2448585
Most speakers are a magnet/electromagnet pair. Things like mylar electrostatics might not have magents, I'm not sure, but everything else will, from earbuds up to concert-hall stacks.

A lot of the time smaller speakers don't produce enough magnetic field to influence anything beyond themselves, but you did ask ;)

The phone app will help you see any effect.

>> No.2448598

>>2448592
Well then speakers that have a good amount of shield.

>> No.2448602

>>2448594
alright well then that answers that, getting small ones anyways since i'll be on a desk.

>> No.2448607

>>2448591
Terminators, right, I need to go to bed.

That's interesting, though. I have a 20L5 and it does indeed have the squiggly lines next to the output, so what you're saying is that with auto-termination I can get the same result of the resistors with the usual BNC adapters I have now?

>> No.2448609

>>2447597
Stop not liking what I like.

>> No.2448615

>>2448607
NO. The resistor markings (squiggly lines) indicate a termination. The BNC adaptor would REMOVE the termination, making the screen brighter but probably lowering image quality.

If you daisy-chain monitors together, input looped to output to next monitor, and repeat, the LAST monitor in the chain should have the outputs terminated. In a chain of one... you can work it out ;)

>> No.2448628

>>2448615
Understood, thanks. I guess that explains why this is the first time I've heard of this.

>> No.2448885
File: 225 KB, 1014x676, 04062015460.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2448885

my monitor keeps losing red color. sometimes a slap will temporarily fix it

look for a place to get it fixed or let it rest in peace?

>> No.2448893

>>2448885
I generally don't know what I'm talking about. But I found cables sometimes cause bad color issues sometimes. If your experiencing this across all your devices connected to the TV disregard what I say I suck cocks. jiggle the cables and see if that does anything worth noting.

>> No.2448910

>>2448893
>TV
it's a PC monitor and the cable doesn't look like the culprit

>> No.2449267

>>2448910
>>2448885
>PC monitor
>my monitor keeps losing red color.
Is the VGA cable or connector okay?
>sometimes a slap will temporarily fix it
This is a good sign of an loose connection of the red path.
As VGA is RGB means that your problem can be located at the red signal path from the VGA connection to the red cathode and it's last stage amplifier on the neckboard.
Is the red of the OSD affected as well?
If yes then the fault can be there after the output of the preamp and/or microcontroller (which generates OSD).
You should inspect all circuit board for dry solder joints and all internal cable connectors for corrosion.

>> No.2449406

>>2448885
>ctx
>trinitron

huh, i always thought ctx was a no-name shit tier brand

>> No.2449432

>>2439153
..... Fred?

>> No.2450387

how to rf to bvm?

>> No.2450621

>>2450387
RF to a vcr, then use the composite output to the pvm.

>> No.2450641

>>2450387
why RF?

>> No.2451013
File: 2.99 MB, 640x480, ctx slam jam.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2451013

>>2449267
>Is the red of the OSD affected as well?
no, it seems fine

>> No.2451029

>>2451013
that's fairly good news, means that the red canon is fine.
It's probably a dry solder somewhere. Or the cable, too much flexing can cut a cable inside.

>> No.2451039

>>2450621
What model BVM, what model VCR? Older BVM's need the card to handle PAL or NTSC depending on what you want to use. Most will come with the region card for where they were sold though.

>> No.2451171
File: 853 KB, 2448x3264, IMG_20150605_133951.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2451171

Asking here again because making a new thread for it was stupid:

I'm setting up my gaming stuff and have some weird problems with the RGB cable for my Wii. It seems that the colors are wired wrong. Did I really get a cable with the colors all mixed up, or is this a problem with the Wii?

This is a PAL Wii, the cable is third party. I strongly suspect the cable, but it's just so strange.

>> No.2451179

>>2451171
are you using a scart>bnc breakout cable or is it scart input? if so... did you just goof up the cables?

can't tell if that trinny is a pvm or not.

open up that scart plug and look inside.
do you have a ohm/multimeter?

>> No.2451181

>>2451171
>>2451179
>ohm/multimeter

check:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:wii_multi_av_pinout

and verify your scart cable is wired correctly.

>> No.2451245

>>2451171
You're not confusing component with rgb are you?

>> No.2451256

>>2451181
I checked with the multimeter, it's really just wired wrong. This is so weird...

>>2451179
I know that the cabling to the PVM is correct, because my Saturn and PS2 RGB cables work just fine.

>> No.2451301

>>2451256
>it's really just wired wrong

where'd you get the cable?
good to know who to avoid in the future.

>> No.2451324

>>2451301
German ebayer / online shop 'Konsolenkost'. It's this cable: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Wii-RGB-AV-Kabel-Scartkabel-NEU-OVP-/301580014490?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item463791d39a

>> No.2451391

>>2450641
My Atari and my SMS

>> No.2451395

>>2451391
both are moddable, composite for atari, composite/svideo/rgb for SMS

>> No.2451413

>>2451391
aye. I didn't even think about the fact that there were consoles without composite.

>> No.2451416

>>2451395
I'm not in any place where i can send them to someone or do it myself.

>> No.2451964

>>2451416
Just do the VCR thing. That's what I do for my Saturn, I've only got an RF cable for it.

>> No.2452675

My bvm has a really horribly scuffed beige cover. Thinking of spraying it neo geo red and stencilling MVS on the side grills. Anyone tried this before?

>> No.2452716

>>2447597
a PC monitor CRT that you magically run 15khz video on.

But seriously, 15khz video is the problem. The flyback transformer operates at 15khz.

Some are better than others, my PVM-20L5 makes a lot quieter of a whine than my old Apple IIe composite monitor. They are both very audible, though.

CRT's aren't for you if you can't get used to the whine. It's pretty easy to get used to if you grew up with it.

>> No.2452720

>>2452675
Don't do it holmes. "Battle damage" on electronics have a certain kind of charm

>> No.2452724

>>2447632
If that makes a difference your flyback transformer has problems.

All 15khz CRT's have an audible whine to younger people. If you are getting a lower pitched whine, then your transformer has something loose inside.

sometimes just tightening down the transformer fixes it.

(don't be stupid and try to fix it yourself, now, unless you are SURE you know what you're doing.)

>> No.2452735

>>2443482
You will probably have to get a proper ypbpr to RGB converter.
To do this manually you extract the sync signal from Y, and then convert the YUV color space to RGB. If that makes no sense, don't worry about it, buy a converter.

Here's an example I found looking up ypbpr on VGA.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WO8mVMvSth8

>> No.2452738

>>2452716
>Some are better than others

Very true. I've got a small Innovation crt that emits an awful whine, while all my Trinis, the Toshiba, and the are basically inaudible.

>> No.2452740

>>2452738
I've had good luck as far as whine goes with larger toshiba's as well. Never had a smaller toshiba though.
I specifically remember a 27 inch toshiba TV I had with component input. It was pretty great until I got my 20L5.

>> No.2452757
File: 508 KB, 1920x1080, toshiba.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2452757

>>2452740
this is the toshiba set. Don't remember the model number but it was definitely 27 inches and a 'curved' set (not flat). It had YPBPR input, two rear composite inputs, one front composite input, and one rear composite output. Also had one S-video input on 'video 2', shared with the second composite input.

>> No.2452894
File: 497 KB, 1600x1200, IMG_0204.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2452894

>>2452757
That's a sharp set holmes. Sounds like a great tv for playing retro games with all those options

This is my Toshi, a 32HF73. 32-inch HD model, DVI-I, goofy Colorstream inputs, frontside s-video port too. Does 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i, not an ideal set for retro, so I leave it in the living room hooked to the cable box

>> No.2452928

>>2452720
For you maybe. For others, not so much.

>> No.2452935

>>2452716
...CRT's emit a whine?


I had to turn my set on and listen real hard to hear it. But I think I'm used to it from growing up with it. It's a comforting noise, actually.

>> No.2452939

>>2452935
maybe you can't hear the frequency anymore?
It's usually rather easy to hear when the TV is turned on for me, and VERY high pitched.

>> No.2452940

>>2452935
My CRT monitor does, which I can hear low volume. Though I'm unaware if there's a higher pitch sound. I can't hear those super high frequency ringtones and shit my friends say they can hear. I also wear closed headphones so that gets rid of a lot of ambient noise.

>> No.2452946

>>2452939
I can hear it when I pause to actually recognize what I'm hearing. I've just grown used to the sound of a CRT over the years I suppose.

Like I said, I find it less a high pitched whine and more something... comforting.

>> No.2453001

>>2452935
to test, on a laptop with good speakers, use something like matlab or this page:
http://onlinetonegenerator.com/
set the waveform to sawtooth and the frequency to 15734 hz. (15.734 kilohertz is the standard horizontal scan frequency for NTSC) and turn up your speakers if you can't hear it. if you can't hear it with multiple sets (I can confirm most will, including cheap laptop speakers in ancient dell laptops), then you probably aren't hearing the 15khz whine, but some other frequency.

>> No.2453004

>>2452946
It's almost soothing to me too, but it is definitely something that I hear when I hit the 'power' button on my TV, even if it fades into the background after that.

>> No.2453017

>>2453001
Fortunately, my ears have been blown out by live music, so I can't hear shit above 12k or so. My wife can hear the tv whine rooms away.

>> No.2453034

>>2453001
Oh, I hear it. I'm just used to it as background noise. It's nice though.

>> No.2453571
File: 47 KB, 640x480, 97b07a28-2bf3-4daf-87f7-32e97ddb88af.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2453571

Hey CRT thread.

I recently rescued this big grey box from my parent's house. It's a generic brand, the only inputs it has are SCART and RF, very minimalist menu options.

So here it is pictured running from composite phono into an adapter plug. I was never a fan of that blurry, fuzzy composite look, so I dug out my old RGB SCART cable. The picture it gives with this cable is crystal clear and beautiful, the problem is it's all about 2 inches off the the left when compared to the same image from composite.

Given that there are no menu options or physical controls to adjust the screen positioning, how likely is it I can fix it? I know it's probably a longshot but I wondered if there were any tricks I could try.

Model is Matsui 21T10.

>> No.2453581
File: 3.76 MB, 3840x2160, 1433603069050991558536.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2453581

>>2453571

Ah fuck, wrong image, my phone shows the wrong thumbnail.

>> No.2453621

Is pvm-9044qm considered good?

>> No.2453658

>>2453621
Bit on the small side but its a PVM with RGB so its good. If you can though check if the screen is properly aligned and all that.

>> No.2453868

How do you get an image to display on these old PVM monitors? After waiting a week for a scart cable, I said fuck it and busted out my composite to s-video adapter. Hooked it up straight from the snes into the s-video input, and I can't get a picture. It just says no sync.

What am I doing wrong?

>> No.2453907

>>2453868
The adapter itself might be at fault. I've got a s-video to composite adapter that I played with once and it would only display a grayscale image on my tv (all the luminance info, but none of the chrominance).

Some PVMs will have the s-video input labeled Y/C, some will have it as VTR, double check that you've got it on the correct input channel.

If that still doesn't work, pick up a set of RCA to BNC adapters. They'll let you plug the composite cable for your SNES into the Video 1 port of the PVM.

Post a pic of the back of your PVM and the model #

>> No.2454586

>>2453658
The 9045 is much better, as it has the 450TVL tube vs the 9044's 250TVL. IS this in Tasmania? Just buy one of the Ikegami's instead?

>> No.2454606

>>2454586
I should add that I do like the 8" though, very cute on the desktop.

>> No.2454984

>>2452946
Actually, if your monitor is looking at a 480p signal, maybe you CAN'T hear it.

>>2453001
I wrote this post, but as I played my wii earlier today in 480p, I noticed I couldn't hear the whine either. Makes sense, 480p has double the horizontal scan rate of 480i (so around 31khz).

>> No.2454994

>>2453658
It doesn't even have to be a PVM to be good.

This Panasonic BT-H1390YN is a 14 inch broadcast monitor with a shadow mask. It accepts RGB and gives one of the best images I've ever seen - and I have a PVM-20L5 to compare it to.

>> No.2455000
File: 2.50 MB, 4608x3456, 01 panasonic bt-h1390yn.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2455000

>>2454994
>doesn't post pic
whoops.

>> No.2455003
File: 3.39 MB, 4608x3456, 02 panasonic bt-h1390yn-4mb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2455003

>>2454994
>>2455000
One more pic.

>> No.2455215

>>2454994
Looks nice

>> No.2455252

>>2455003
post moar panasony bitchez

>> No.2455459

So a question to all you guys using really high res monitors to display like, SNES games... Why?

What actual benefit are you getting from a CRT at those levels of image quality? The highest end CRT I ever remember seeing gave an image as clear and sharp as if it was an LCD- sharp blocky pixel edges and no flicker at all.

So what is the difference when you run an old 16 bit game through something like that? It's pretty much the same thing as using an emulator with a crappy scanline filter.

I thought the entire point of playing your retro vidya on a CRT is to enjoy the naturally soft focus and subtle anti-aliasing they can provide, instead of a crappy emulator scanline filters. Using a really high quality monitor kind of defeats that purpose, surely.

I remember having a Windows 95 port of Samaurai Showdown or some similar fighting game as a kid, and even back then I noticed how much worse a game like that looked on my PC, than my console on the TV- obviously back then I didn't understand why 2d games looked so pixellated on the PC, but I knew something was up.

>> No.2455473

>>2455459

We're just hipsters, basically.

>> No.2455494

>>2455459
>So a question to all you guys using really high res monitors to display like, SNES games... Why?

The SNES is usually 256 pixels wide, sure, if thats your only choice of console then thats a fair point.

But what if you want more than just the SNES? I believe a fair amount of Playstation games run at 512 wide? Not sure what the widest console is but the Saturn has a few titles that run at 704 wide, not sure how common the usage is though.

In general I prefer to have at least enough detail to resolve 640 pixels for SD content but I agree if the resolution is too high on too large a display, it looks unnatural and almost painful. That being said, unless someone has gone out and done some analyses into it, I wouldn't expect 8/16bit consoles to give out an ultra sharp square wave (eg equivalent of 1280+ wide) video signal anyway.

>> No.2455502

>>2455459
There's a difference between high end TV monitor and high end PC monitor.

Although, even saying that, high end PC monitors totally beat out LCD for old PC games, too. You think they give out sharp images? They have natural filtering, there's a reason AA wasn't a thing until LCDs became big, and it wasn't due to a lack of performance. 2hu looks stunning at 800x600 on my old CRT stretched out to 19", and clearly jagged at 800x600 windowed on my LCD.

High end TV monitors almost always have less than 1024x768 resolution. Mine has 600 vertical lines. Combine that with heavy scanlines, and you get a natural form of filtering that drastically reduces the sharp edges and aliasing. These high quality monitors are still taking in the same signal, the only real difference is that the additional vertical lines break up the image better. You're misunderstanding the difference between PVMs and normal TVs.

>> No.2455518
File: 3.47 MB, 4608x3456, DSCN0177.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2455518

>>2455502
>there's a reason AA wasn't a thing until LCDs became big

You can definitely see jaggies on a tube and games definitely had AA options. I was still using mine until 2008. I only switched over because I wanted widescreen.

I really wish I hadn't, because my monitor was a behemoth that must have weighed like 30 lbs and I really miss it. At least I kept my television.

>> No.2455550

>>2455459
Nope, sorry, BVMs are literally perfect in every way for anything low resolution. CRT blurriness is a defect and no LCD can display scanlines like a CRT can.

>> No.2455553

>>2449432
I am not your Fred, pal

>> No.2455590

>>2455459

Everyone has it's own way of enjoying CRTs:
- Some are here only for the scanlines, and are so much into it that they use filters using big black bars to imitate scanlines no SD monitor would produce, a handful of Broadcast-quality 1M$ worth monitors excepted they don't have the shekels to buy.
- Some will spam comparative pictures trying to tell you that if you're not playing all your games with RF you're doing it wrong using as examples dithering effects used on systems with RGB output only.
- Some just enjoy the colors, contrasts, motion quality, and overall flexibility when it comes to displaying various resolutions of this kinds of display.

>> No.2455805

Just managed to carry a KD 36FS130 home from someone's lawn. Holy fuck was it heavy. Plugged it in and pressing power does two things
>standard CRT staticky turn-on noise
>green light

Really desperate for a decent CRT. Do I have any options?

>> No.2455818

>>2455805
>>green light
Solid green, or is it flashing?

The latter would be indicating the results of a self test and might be able to tell you what's wrong depending on the number of and duration of the flashes.

>> No.2455828

>>2455818
Nothing flashing, just the standard solid green.

>> No.2456103

>>2455805
https://us.en.kb.sony.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/32192/c/65,66/p/61659,61660,62293,62305/

Green solid is the normal operating light. Check your brightness/contrast settings, if possible hit the tv on the side of the case and curse at it.

>> No.2456195

>>2456103
After leaving it unplugged for a bit and retrying, the initial turn-on now has no green light, but the red timer light now flashes 3 times, before waiting a bit and repeating the process. If I press the power button again, it stops and the green light comes on and stays on. From here I can only retry this process again and again.

I tried following a manual and somewhat blindly attempting to affect the brightness, but I didn't see any effects.

>> No.2456295

>>2456195
Now we're getting somewhere.

>3 flashes indicates a failure or caused by "Low +B Overvoltage (OVP) circuit." "IC6505 is faulty. (D Board)" is the probable cause.

from this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/64-direct-view-single-tube-crt-displays/928945-you-have-sony-won-t-power-standby-light-blinks-help-suggesti.html

>> No.2456474

anybody know any good CRT tv in ebay to buy?

>> No.2456658

>>2456474
There are hundreds. Look up "Sony PVM" and "Sony BVM" to start with, and then google each one to find out about it. Come back and ask questions if you need to.

>> No.2456878

>>2442496
That liquid was for cooling the lenses.

Basically you're taking apart a mini version of a huge CRT projector which created so much heat it needed basic liquid cooling and coupling between lens elements.

>> No.2456886

>>2451013
>>2451029
What that guy said. Your cable or the connection on your PC or monitor is fucked a little. Fixable if you have the time and patience.

>> No.2456964

>tfw can't decide what cables to use

I keep looking at composite vs s-video vs rgb comparisons, and all it does is make the decision harder. Like this one, for example http://www.chrismcovell.com/gotRGB/rgb_compare.html

RGB has no artifacts, but the color looks off. Like in the MM2 screenshot, the red robot masters are pink in RGB instead of red. Is this just a shitty comparison, or are the colors between composite and RGB really that different?

>> No.2456974

>>2456964
NES is the only console where RGB will cause discoloration. The NES was designed for composite (Technically RF if you want to get technical since the Famicom did not have A/V out until the AV Famicom) and modifying the console to output RGB, as they did with PlayChoice machines, will change the pallette ever so slightly. At least, this was the case a few years ago; I haven't paid attention to NES modding in the last while but I know things have been moving forward.

Most other major consoles, including the Super Nintendo, Sega Genesis, Sega Saturn Neo Geo, PlayStation, and many others, were designed to have RGB output natively, with a few minor exceptions with budget models such as the SNES Mini, which requires modification to output RGB.

>> No.2456978

>>2456974

From the comparisons, it looks like the colors are different even on the snes. Is it just the dude's fault or is it actually like that?

>> No.2456997

>>2456978
It's probably due to other factors like the camera setup, particular screens, etc. Those composite effects on the megadrive/genesis are one thing, but even so everything in the known universe looks better with RGB.

>> No.2457003

>>2456964
All I can say is that NES via Wii component looks sharp and beautiful.

>> No.2457009
File: 962 KB, 3280x2460, 100_3026.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2457009

>>2456964
I don't have an RGB capable NES(or a way to play the NES I do have for that matter) but that looks like a combination of palette issues and video capture. A run through of all the palettes FCEUX has available can't seem to get a match to the colors that come up on that shot.
On top of that, were you go to mod the consoles using the NESRGB, you'll have palette options available to you to get what one could call "correct" colors for the home console rather than the rather garish ones that the PPUs of the PC10 used.

Old photo; Component from Wii using AspiringSquire's Real Palette. I believe this is the palette the NESRGB uses for its "Improved" setting.
Using Covell's own palette gives different colors, more saturated and possibly "purer" in tone, but they seem less accurate to the colors one would expect to be there.

>> No.2457026
File: 3.30 MB, 3280x2458, MM2 Color Temp comparison reduced.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2457026

>>2457009
Perhaps it's from an implied color temp difference.

>> No.2457131

I'm researching a possible mod for a SNES to output component video with RCA cables using RCA jacks added to the back of the console.

Does anyone know which US SNES model has the chip that can output component (YPbPr)? I'm pretty sure my model is a 1st revision one according to http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=13 ("EJECT" is printed in white ink instead of embossed/molded). I have a few questions about this.

I've read on one forum that the SNES doesn't output component, yet I've also read about a chip (S-ENC BA6594(A)F) that has Pb and Pr outputs (pins 1 and 24, respectively which can be used along with the Y (luma) from pin 7 of the A/V out or pin 23 of the S-ENC chip to output component.

Is there anything else I need to know to do this properly? Like if I have to add resistors and/or capacitors to the outputs? Soldering tips/what solder to use? And I'm not entirely sure which Y pin to use either (pin 7 of the A/V out vs pin 23 of the S-ENC). And what about audio? Can I use the white and red RCA cables on the standard Nintendo yellow, white, and red cable set that plugs into the A/V out with the component mod in place?

Here's a forum thread talking about this:
http://nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=71069

Thanks.

>> No.2457140

>>2457131
Shit. I got the Pb and Pr pins reversed. Other than that, my questions still stand.

>> No.2457218 [DELETED] 

>>2457131
You have to open it up to be sure of whether it has the correct encoder or not.

If it's a model that doesn't have the correct encoder, this is an option you could look into:
http://retromods.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=264&p=3526#p3526
Not much documentation on the specifics for earlier models, but it's something.

>Can I use the white and red RCA cables on the standard Nintendo yellow, white, and red cable set that plugs into the A/V out with the component mod in place?
Audio will still be going to the Multi-Out, so there shouldn't be any problem in doing that at all.

>> No.2457220

>>2457131
You have to open it up to be sure of whether it has the correct encoder or not.

If it's a model that doesn't have the correct encoder, this is an option you could look into:
http://retromods.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=264&p=3526
Not much documentation on the specifics for earlier models, but it's something.

>Can I use the white and red RCA cables on the standard Nintendo yellow, white, and red cable set that plugs into the A/V out with the component mod in place?
Audio will still be going to the Multi-Out, so there shouldn't be any problem in doing that at all.

>> No.2457275

>>2457131
Nerve heard of a component mod for SNES but you would be able to use the red and white stereo off the composite av connector unless you diverted it

>> No.2457657

>>2454586
Well, this manual here says, that 9044QM is 450TVL
http://www.manualscenter.com/manuals/sony/pvm9044qm-owner-manual.html

page numbered as 1
But fuck, I'll wait for some 14" to pop up, since I don't have much room for 20"+

>> No.2457835

>>2457657
I honestly have the the 44 and 45 next to each other and can't tell the difference line count wise. My 45 has a discolouration on one side however

>> No.2457951
File: 149 KB, 1200x1600, $_57.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2457951

Tempted to pickup this Sony KV-XA34M31. Any idea if it is 100Hz or not? I want to play light gun games.

>> No.2457984

>>2457951
Does it come with the blond chick?

>> No.2457991

>>2457951
girl spotted :^)

>> No.2458021

Thoughts on a 27" RCA TruFlat television? Primarily for component -> NES

>> No.2458041

>>2458021
American TV/10
would not buy

>> No.2458504

okay guys today i got my delay paycheck and i want some big and comfy CTR to play my NES,Snes and Megadrive anybody can give me a recommendation?

>> No.2458669

>>2457131
>Like if I have to add resistors and/or capacitors to the outputs?
Well, you should use a amplifier for buffering or else a mistake (like connecting it to an output of an another device) could damage the video encoder.
Other than that you should always have an a capacitor on a video output to get rid of the DC offset which is never needed for consumer TVs and related equipment like any game console or generic VCR, if you not sure then just measure the DC voltage if it's zero on a voltmeter then there likely is a output capacitor but don't count on it. This can be only truly verified with an oscilloscope just in case the DC offset is 0V. However, it's very very likely that the encoder pin(s) have a DC offset.
You should use 220µF capacitor, with the + side to the encoder and - to the TV.

The resistor should attenuate the signal in a way that the voltage at the 75ohms termination resistor (is inside the TV) is 0.7Vpp (voltage from peak to peak), the japanese only datasheet of the BA6592F (similar to the one in the SNES) mentions 0.42Vpp for R-Y and 0.31Vpp for B-Y outputs, so you need amp circuits to increase this or just turn up the saturation at your TV. This might not be true for that what you have, so don't use a resistor for now. If the saturation is way too high compared to other devices you have then add a resistor in between, start with around 20ohms and go higher until it looks right.

>used along with the Y (luma) from pin 7 of the A/V out or pin 23 of the S-ENC chip to output component.
Go for the multiAV pin, it's already amplified and has a resistor and output capacitor (this also applies to all video outputs of all NTSC Nintendo consoles, with RGB from the SNES being the one exception).

>Can I use the white and red RCA cables on the standard Nintendo yellow, white, and red cable set that plugs into the A/V out with the component mod in place?
Pretty much, you can try to open the plug and rewire the composite wire to luma and use that.

>> No.2458725
File: 6 KB, 275x184, Unknown..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2458725

SONY KX-14CP1 anyone ? comments pls ?

>> No.2458742

Hey /crt/, casual lurker, rare poster with a weird question. When I was a bit younger, I found a Hitatchi CT2000 on the side of the road. It had some issue where 1/3 of the screen wouldn't display correctly. I remember loving the look, but I didn't know much about gaming or TVs. Does anyone have experience with these and know if they have a good rep? Should I seek one down again?

>> No.2458754
File: 1.94 MB, 3264x1836, 20150608_192016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2458754

How does this PVM look, vr? Is it worth keeping? The colors look alright, but there's these distorted transition bars that worry me. Is it because of the monitor, or because it's hooked up via composite?

>> No.2458756
File: 2.02 MB, 3264x1836, 20150608_192108.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2458756

>>2458754
If you look here though, the geometry looks decent. You think it's worth keeping?

>> No.2458808

What's the recommended color temperature? Is it 6500 or 9300?

>> No.2459037

>>2458808
I feel it depends both on personal opinion and the game in question.

I use 9300k on my displays most of the time, but 6500k looks better in >>2457026

>> No.2459078
File: 2.06 MB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150609_091904.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2459078

>>2458504
A Sony Trinitron, a pvm if you can find one.

Pic is alpha 2 on my 2010p

Anyone else get bad colours in the top left corner when rating their pvm/bvm?

>> No.2459079

>>2459037
I've been using 9300k but lately I'm thinking it looks too blue.

>> No.2459096

should i be concerned about a burning-silicon odor emitting from my crt? i just recently bought it, it's an 18 year old monitor, and this is probably the first time it's been used extensively in years. i cleaned out the vents with some compressed air, and didn't see any dust come out. so im unsure if it's just burning dust or if it's ozone.

after having it on for a bout 3 hours for testing, the room smelled like burnt silicon, i wouldn't say it reeked of it, but i could definitely smell it. is that normal, or is there a problem with the circuitry?

>> No.2459127

Hi /vr/

I haven't bought a CRT just yet, though I am on the market for one. However, once I GET this CRT I'm looking for I have a question - how can I play videos on it? All I'll really have to hook into it is my NES and a VCR, but I'd like to play video files (which are currently on my PC) for things like watching Godzilla movies and Thundercats.

Is there some sort of device that could be hooked into a tv through composite and play various video files? Is there maybe a cable that can take video from a pc into a CRT and look proper? I seem to remember hooking up a crt to a pc with S-Video and it looked genuinely awful

>> No.2459225

>>2458754
>>2458756
Looks good to me except for the colour chart being upside down. Is there something that is not obvious from the photos?

>> No.2459229

>>2459078
*tating

>> No.2459235

>>2459096
What? No, that is not normal. You should not smell burning. Do you smell a burning smell when you watched TV on a CRT any point in your life?

>> No.2459368
File: 1.65 MB, 3280x2460, 102_2742.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2459368

>>2459225
It's simple, he just lives in Australia.

>>2459078
Color distortion is something that does tend to happen when tating. You're making sure to power it on AFTER rotating it, right? I think it's also suggested to leave it in the position for a little while before actually using it.
This is just with the camera turned, the monitor is still in the proper position.

>> No.2459380
File: 3.94 MB, 3096x4128, IMG_20150406_222921[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2459380

>> No.2459392

Other than the NEC XM29, NEC XM37 and Sony PVM29 what other large pro monitors are out there? Did Sony ever make a PVM bigger than 29" I don't think I've ever seen a BVM bigger than 20".

>> No.2459397

>>2459368
Yeah I have left it etc and this happens with both my bvm and smaller pvm

>> No.2459412

So my bvm just 'snapped' went rainbow colours and came back to normal while paused in a Saturn game. Wtf is happening?

>> No.2459424

>>2459392
BVM-D32E1WU is roughly 24" diagonally for 4:3

>> No.2459446

>>2458725

Breddy good monitor that was made as a 15kHz RGB computer monitor (at least in France they were mostly sold in computer stores and often shown in ads with the Sony HB-F500F MSX2 computers), though it can be used with consoles like the other anon do.

>> No.2459469
File: 2.93 MB, 640x480, Klonoa Triple Redux Intro.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2459469

>>2459392
There are various Mitsubishi monitors in the same style as the NEC ones. The NEC 3PG is also somewhat close to that size, coming in with a ~26 or so inch screen.

As >>2459424 said, the BVM-D32 is pretty big, but you lose out a bit on size for 4:3 content since it's widescreen.

>>2459412
Did you bump a degauss button somewhere on it?

>> No.2459583

>>2459469
>>>2459392
>Did you bump a degauss button somewhere on it?

No definitively not. Degaussing sounds completely different anyway

>> No.2460071

>>2459392
there are big presentation monitors that take vga and the usual sd formats, but they may or may not accept 15kHz rgb.

I have a 27inch Tandberg vga monitor (rebadged sampoo?) that goes up to 1024x768@60, but only does sd modes via composite/svid/component; I guess a clever arrangement of rgb<->component transcoders could work though.
Unfortunately my unit has an odd fault where the sd modes are capped to half contrast (OSD 0-127 works as expected, 128-255 no change). The tube isn't that great either, the sides have a noticeably larger dot pitch on the mask than the center.

>> No.2460237

Should I do it /crt/?

http://www.gumtree.com/p/tv-projectors/sony-trinitron-kv-29x5u-29-crt-grail-rare-retro-gaming-tv-television-inch-n64-snes-megadrive-dc/1119803998

29" 4:3 Trinitron, with an s-video scart and an RGB scart.

Fuck that thing is going to weigh three metric tons

>> No.2460243

>>2460237
why the fuck not

>> No.2460257

>>2460243
Mainly due to the hassle of moving it, I'm not even sure if it would get through our door...

>> No.2460259

>>2460237
probably the best you can get for a consumer CRT. If only for cylindrical tube.

>> No.2460260

>>2460259
Cylindrical tube? Enlighten me

>> No.2460274

>>2460260
because of beam deflection physics, earlier tubes were spherical, when deflection got better, tubes became cylindrical, then flat.
However, as the tube get flatter, the geometry quirks get more apparent because deflection is never perfect.
Cylindrical is probably the best compromise, less reflections while getting minimal geometry troubles.
The black housing on these trinis looks better IMO than the grey/silver they want with flat-trinis/WEGA

>> No.2460301

Also, sound on these is usually bretty good, because they use the housing size for decently sized speakers and event a bass woofer.

>> No.2461545
File: 2.46 MB, 2624x1476, IMG_20150609_211909869.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2461545

So I bought a Sony KV-32FS200 off Craigslist, but the geometry is pretty fucked up on it. There don't seem to be any adjustment screws on the back. Is this something that can be fixed? I don't mind having a professional stop over and calibrate it, but there's some major bowing that's more than I can tolerate.

>> No.2461574

>>2460237
Damn, that looks pretty nice. Not even my Wega has a front-side s-video port or headphone jack.

Yeah, do it!

>> No.2461581

>>2461545
http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248996-Sony-WEGA-Trinitron-CRT-TV-service-menu-Tips-Tricks-and-settings-suggestions

Check this out

>> No.2461589

>>2461545
>>2461581
>There don't seem to be any adjustment screws on the back
Might be able to clean it up with the service menu.
Owner's and Service manual for that model:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/72tjyce2af3c7qz,mscc0u4gro5qs1r/shared

>> No.2461597

>>2461581
>>2461589
Thanks, I'll tinker with it.

>> No.2461660

>>2458669
Thanks for the info. I did a bit of reading and research based off that info and it turns out that you can wire the pins directly to the jacks without amps, resistors, or caps if you have the right chip (the one that says S-ENC on it without BA6594(A)F). This is according to the following video and forum posts:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOcpH_4ConI
http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=22&threadid=83364

I found something describing a method to get component from the BA chip that requires a transistor along with several resistors and components, but I couldn't view the schematic as it requires me to make an account:

http://www.sega-16.com/forum/showthread.php?20732-Easy-SNES-SFC-YUV-component-video!&p=484478&viewfull=1#post484478

I could get another SNES and open that up along with the one I already have, but I need one of those Nintendo security bits. If both of them have the BA chip, then I guess I could just wire 220uF caps (I'm assuming 25V is sufficient?) to the Pb and Pr signals like you said and just directly tap pin 7 of the A/V out for Y. This should work according to this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ndMbKcH_6ak

>> No.2461690

>>2461660
EDIT: I also found this: http://mikejmoffitt.com/wp/?p=74

It says I should wire a 75 ohm resistor in series with the 220uF cap for both the Pb and Pr each (which is odd since he is using the S-ENC chip which I believe can be wired directly to the RCA jacks like in the first video I posted)

>> No.2462141

>>2460259
>>2460237

My knees are weak just looking at it ;)

>> No.2462165

>>2462141
I know, I have a 27" FDtrini, and moving the thing was painful, thankfully I have no stairs.

>> No.2462314

>>2461660
>>2461690
> I did a bit of reading and research based off that info and it turns out that you can wire the pins directly to the jacks without amps, resistors, or caps if you have the right chip (the one that says S-ENC on it without BA6594(A)F).
Yeah, but it's about safety for the SNES and the other devices.
At least have just a capacitor to block DC just in case of an mistake but some people (and engineers) are just lazy or claim to know it better and save themselves the costs/effort to make it safe.

>(I'm assuming 25V is sufficient?)
Yes.

>> No.2462661
File: 2.61 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150609_234505.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2462661

>> No.2462664

>>2462661

Lower your camera's ISO, my black-bars inserting fella.

>> No.2462667

>>2462664
Already at ISO100, as low as it will go

>> No.2462683

>>2462667

Look like you'll have to get another camera if you want to take pics of CRTs that don't look like shit then.

>> No.2462696

>>2462683
Don't be so rude man. I've seen plenty worse pics in these threads before.

>> No.2462708

>>2462661
i think it looks dope, I have a 1954q and it doesn't look that crispy
>>2462683
at least be an elitist prick about the monitor 'thefuck cares about cameras here?

>> No.2462741
File: 4 KB, 344x326, 1254614736298.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2462741

>mfw I'm seriously considering dropping dosh on a mirrorless DSLR mostly so I can take better pictures of my CRT

>> No.2462761

>>2462696

No need to be upset. Yes, there have been worse pics, but that doesn't make yours good, and they're usually not to show off CRT displaying scanlines 'n stuff. There's too much noise on your picture, which means you'd either need to lower the ISO, or maybe the aperture if it's possible.

>>2462708
>elitist prick

No need to be butt-flustered about a comment not directed to you.

>'thefuck cares about cameras here?

Guy want to show off his pics, result isn't good looking because of the noise, his camera doesn't seems to be able to handle some parameters so it could take better pics. Do you know what this means? That means get a better camera if you want to show how nice black lines look on your PC monitor.

>>2462741

No need for these, just set the ISO, aperture and shutter speed parameters correctly, and use a stable stand and you'll be all right.

>> No.2462773

>>2462761
>Yes, there have been worse pics, but that doesn't make yours good

I'm not the same guy you were talking to. I just thought it was a rude thing to say.

>> No.2462841

>>2462683

It's a Galaxy S3 camera, looks OK enough considering it's a phone camera.

>> No.2462873

>>2462741
If you do, get a used one. Preferably from keh.com. That way it's under warranty. Their grading system is extremely conservative.

>> No.2462874

>>2462873
I can get a used Sony a5000 for $250 at Best Buy. That's the one I was looking at.

>> No.2462893

>>2462874
That's a reasonable price if it's with the kit lens.

If you already have a camera with manual settings/functions then: >>2462741

>use a stable stand and you'll be all right.
All of this. Use a tripod if you got one.

>> No.2462897

>>2462893
ment to quote >>2462761

>> No.2462961

>>2458725
Bit of a late reply, it's a nice mid 80s computer monitor(mostly for MSX machines) with a decent tube in it.

It's pretty good aesthetically too, it has a proper 80s vibe to it and it's not as industrial as a PVM but also definitely doesn't look like a consumer television.
The inputs being on the side is unbelievably handy.
The only downside I can think of is that it's a right wank to adjust REALLY seriously as although a good chunk of the controls are on the side some of the important ones are in pots underneath the case.

>> No.2463049

>>2461581
>>2461589
So I couldn't find anything in the service menu to fix that horizontal bowing. Turns out, that's a common problem in Trinitron WEGA televisions and can only be corrected by making physical changes inside the TV. So it's either have a CRT guy fix it, or just deal with it.

>> No.2463058
File: 35 KB, 412x703, sonytvmenu.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2463058

>>2463049

>> No.2463101

>>2463058
Yep, tried them all. None of them fix horizontal bowing in any combination. I can make the vertical bowing a bit better, but not horizontal.

>> No.2463584

>>2462165
well, i meant that both ways. My 27" panasonic is all i can lift. I can't move it properly, but i can lift it onto a surface, or off a surface and put it on the floor. Great stuff.

>> No.2463897
File: 1.43 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4670.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2463897

I prefer the SNES version, but I'll be damned if these animations aren't worlds smoother.

First two bosses being less cycle locked is nice too.

>> No.2463905

>>2463897
Which Turtles game is that?

>> No.2463910
File: 1.99 MB, 2860x2460, 102_4685c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2463910

>>2463905
Turtles in Time Arcade

>> No.2464869

Hey, /crt/ I got an 8042Q yesterday and it seems it has two fairly minor issues with the picture. One is that the convergence at the bottom seems to be off, which is quite bothersome, but the other, equally bothersome one is that there seem to be sort of "half-pixels" (pretty sure it's not just color bleed).

Would this be easily fixed by changing the h-size and to do that, will I need the remote? There's a pot on the D-board labeled RV512 and detailed as "U/H.SIZE". Is this the same? The U throws me off.

>> No.2464882

Just won this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-PVM-20M4U-20-COLOR-VIDEO-MONITOR-16-9-local-pick-up-only-/171815784796?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&autorefresh=true&hash=item280104d15c&nma=true&si=UFCJ374QBaxlzsfwTkprvN1WATY%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Did I do good?

I'm new to this whole thing.

>> No.2464901
File: 2.20 MB, 3264x2448, 20150611_220402.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2464901

This game looks great but I have no idea what to do, I don't want to look up a guide because that takes the fun out of it.
Wii composite is actually pretty good compared to the PS2's

>> No.2465612

>>2464901
I'd suggest giving the manual a read (can be found on google if you don't have it [assuming you're emulating]), and just relax, and explore.

>> No.2465661
File: 1.70 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4621.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2465661

>>2464882
Depending on shipping, pretty good.

>> No.2465712
File: 94 KB, 645x522, SNES_YPb_Pr_Circuit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2465712

>>2462314
Thanks.

I recently found pic related, but I still haven't opened my SNES yet to see what chip I have since I don't have the right bit. I don't even have a CRT with component yet. My uncle had a Sony WEGA, but they have geometry problems as mentioned recently, so I might as well look around. As for the mod itself, if my SNES has the S-ENC, I'll probably do the 220uF cap with a 0-100 ohm pot for both Pb and Pr. If it's the other chip, then I'm not sure what to do exactly (maybe the same thing I just mentioned).

>> No.2465808

>>2465661
picking it up

so no shipping charge

>> No.2465812

>>2464901
I am also playing ecco 2 right now. its hard.

>> No.2465908
File: 1.47 MB, 2460x3164, 102_4628cr.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2465908

>>2465808
Quite nice then.

>> No.2465936

I am in the market for a 17"-19" VGA monitor. I have no need for resolutions greater than 640x480. I know Sony and NEC had some good monitors back in the day, but beyond that I have no idea which models or other brands I should be looking for. What are my best options?

>> No.2465951

>>2465936
The magic of CRTs is that they have no native resolution. Honestly, just get whatever the latest model you can find is, they'll all run 640x480 no problem.

>> No.2465986

>>2465951
Yes I realize they all run 640x480 no problem. What I meant was, I don't need some John Carmack $2k HD CRT boulder. I would imagine it would be hard to find one on ebay didn't support up to 1024x768. I may just go over to the Goodwill electronics store and see what they have.

>> No.2465993

>>2465986
your choice basically boils down between aperture grille or shadow mask.

>> No.2465995

>>2465993
dot/stripe pitch is also worth keeping an eye on as well.

>> No.2467270

hey, /vr/. im having some problems with my scart to bnc cables. i have it hooked up to the back of my crt. red to r/y. green to g/y, blue to b/y, and then i have the yellow cable plugged into the ext sync adapter.

and when i hook up my snes scart to it, it flashes an extremely bright white image, and slowly darkens up until it just fades away. composite works fine.

any idea what it might be?

>> No.2467286

>>2467270
Do you know if your set support composite video as sync? Because the SNES don't have anything any other signal that could be used for sync.

>> No.2467296

>>2467286
im not sure, the manual never specified. it does support both rgb and component though. it's an HR pvm 13q. and the snes scart cable im using was "csync." bought from retro gaming cables.uk.

>> No.2467337

>>2467286
>>2467296
never mind, turns out im an idiot. i forgot to hit the ext sync button on my monitor. whoops.

>> No.2467338
File: 224 KB, 1920x1200, kv11pinout.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467338

Hey /CRT/ I need a bit of help I'm currently making a cable setup to a kv11CR and have all the hookups in the right spot from a sega model 2 mobo revision VA2 Haven't took it apart to see the exact chip but its a malaysian model.

Anyway theres no image rolling and such at all but everything is very very green.

does the sync coming out of the sega affect color in rgb? also any ideas? I did put some resistors on each RGB wire and it helped but the spec sheet on the tv says it already had the 75ohm resistors pic related.

Anyway anyone know what "fast blanking output" is?

>> No.2467390
File: 1.12 MB, 1944x2592, green.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467390

>>2467338

Another picture

>> No.2467416
File: 3.87 MB, 3264x1836, 20150613_021506.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467416

holy shit, I had no idea the snes could look this good. I feel like I've just entered the matrix.

I will never go back to emulators and shit-video, I have seen the light.

>> No.2467724

>>2467338
Assuming it's the same as with scart, fast blanking needs to be high so RGB signals are used instead of composite video. To get the right voltage, connect the pin to 5v through a 75-180 ohm resistor.
Also, you cannot use the "sync out" pin on a MD/genesis, it comes from the VDP and the level isn't good to drive a display.

Given that you have a fast blanking pin, you should be able to use composite video for sync.

>> No.2467732
File: 3 KB, 524x287, mega2.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467732

>>2467338
>>2467724
also, you need to be wired with resistors AND caps.

>> No.2467765
File: 3.98 MB, 3264x2448, DSC_0030.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467765

Why only Yoshi's Island US on Snes NTCS doesn't work on PAL Bang & Olufsen ?? (All others NTSC games works. DK3, SoM 2, Goemon 2, Stafox, SF2 Turbo etc....)
I also have Japanese Dreamcast and Saturn with many games, the picture is normal

https://youtu.be/dm49w8gW0ao

>> No.2467930
File: 1.09 MB, 2500x1667, _DSC2116-Edit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467930

Picked up a Sony Trinitron KV-29FX60E (100Hz...) for free. It has some minor geometry errors, but I cannot find any manuals online for free. There is also a "static" noise from the rear, dying capacitor?

>> No.2467938
File: 1.20 MB, 2500x1667, _DSC2117-Edit.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2467938

>>2467930

>> No.2468001

>>2453001
... Maybe I'll get used to it after some time? While playing it'll drown in the music.

>> No.2468072

>>2467930
Bah, I bought it. Download link for anyone interested: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kmxh3zi7ahdolhp/KV-29FX60A%20and%20other.pdf?dl=0

>> No.2468081

>>2440908
How do I go about showing this on my CRT tv?

>> No.2468086

>>2468081
240p test suite

>> No.2468090

>>2468086
That's only for the genesis?

>> No.2468092

>>2468090
SNES, MegaCD, dreamcast, Wii also

>> No.2468098

>>2468090
>>2468086
http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite#Sega_Dreamcast
Damn. I don't have a flash cart for the snes. I don't have a Wii, and my Gamecube cannot run homebrew stuff.

>> No.2468416

>>2467724
>>2467732

I tried it with caps as well before I went to sleep no change at all and from research yesterday it's more to stabilize a picture to prevent overdrive artifacts and such to give a more consistent picture acting like a filter, no change at all.

I've already tried using composite sync as well as csync and strangely enough absolutely no change it synced the same already have the 5v hooked up to switch it from normal to rgb mode

Anyway fast blanking reversed chroma or something on this set black is white and viceversea which seems odd. on similar sets it does something about only using rgb sync forced I'm going to use a multimeter to see what voltages are coming out of the genesis and try to get them down to what the tv uses and check again.

>> No.2468486
File: 7 KB, 400x145, en-20111114-p1_img0003[1].ashx_l.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2468486

>>2468416
>I tried it with caps as well before I went to sleep no change at all and from research yesterday it's more to stabilize a picture to prevent overdrive artifacts and such to give a more consistent picture acting like a filter, no change at all.
No, it's there to remove the DC offset and let the AC signal pass and that's why it doesn't seem to have any affect.
But you should have it anyways, this can protect the output from ESD (or other voltages) and reduce load (current) on both the output and termination resistor (in the TV/monitor).
Also, AC coupling is pretty much standard when it comes to 15khz video signals.

>> No.2468557

>>2468486
Ah read up on it yesterday and thats what it seemed to do i'll read up on it more now that I know what it's called. (lots of second hand information looking it up I guess)

Anyway I'm new at this at it seems to get the .7 voltage the tv wants I actually need a 260ohm resistor from 2v out from the sega at .03A to the .7V it wants. Would you mind double checking that?

I thought it was just feeding it too much yesterday as the thing that helped most after the inital check was the resistors, put 100ohms on it already and things actually became visible. Going to resoldier some new wires and check.

Right now I'm getting it to work before making a more permanent wire. Currently taking it apart to get a better ID on it It's actually a va1.8 my bad.

So far it's got a ska2195D in it which apparently means no jail bars. Audio chip still MIA but i'm assuming its a bad one due to info.

>> No.2468567

>>2468557
Yep BA10324 amps, might replace them eventually after everything is setup.

>> No.2468570

>>2468416
>reversed chroma or something on this set black is white and viceversea
Sound similar to what happened when I was connecting the AV out of my Genesis directly to the PVM and left ground floating. You'd get all the colors but almost like a negative of the expected image.

>> No.2468573

>>2468557
no, you just need 75 ohm because inside the tv there's a 75 ohm termination.
With both resistors on a line, you get a voltage divider that provides the correct 0.7v value.

>> No.2468574

>>2468573

Alright i'll check everything I thought I did it right the first time time to check again.

>> No.2468608

>>2468570

Checked this up and theres no seeming inversion with the ground, however it's still the same shade of green set that way.

>> No.2468813
File: 8 KB, 120x266, 1407687736073.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2468813

My CRT that I've had for like 15 years just died to a power surge. Just coming by to pay respects.

>> No.2468989

>>2459412
>So my bvm just 'snapped' went rainbow colours and came back to normal while paused in a Saturn game. Wtf is happening?

Cmon guys I'm freaking out here

>> No.2469098

>>2468989
Sounds like it degaussed. Not sure why it's doing that on it's own, but I'm not familiar with BVMs.

>> No.2469151

>>2468813
Shame, that. Hope you find one even better.

>> No.2469315

>>2469098
I've had a few monitors do that when it got too humid. seemingly for no reason as well. Snap and all.

>> No.2469572

>>2469098
>>2469315
Thanks, my dad said it might be on its way out :(

>> No.2470060
File: 1.28 MB, 3280x2460, 102_4648.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2470060

>Page 10
wot

>> No.2471257
File: 2.51 MB, 1944x2592, sanic.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2471257

Finally got my green screen working.

When I first got this I got it inspected and they "adjusted" the screen for me when I just wanted it looked at. They raised the green gain and such for normal composite. Went inside and adjusted it myself. The hue controls etc on the side were locked out on rgb mode.

All that work just because someone "fixed" something that didn't need it.

>> No.2472795
File: 829 KB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150615_161903.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2472795

Airblasted the inside of my bvm. Got a few pictures for those interested

>> No.2472804
File: 948 KB, 3264x1836, IMG_20150615_163203.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2472804

>>2472795
These are the decoder cards. They just pull out like ram cards in a pc

>> No.2472817
File: 1.52 MB, 1836x3264, IMG_20150615_162014.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2472817

>>2472804
This is stuck to the side of that. it lists where to put the decoder cards. It would really help me out if anyone could tell me what BN and BP do as it doesn't list them

>> No.2472825

>>2471257
Looks great. What TV anon?

>> No.2472882

>>2471257
>The hue controls etc on the side were locked out on rgb mode.
Saturation and hue are often not available for RGB, simply because they aren't needed.

>> No.2473135
File: 42 KB, 489x850, 1362722606327.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2473135

>>2471257
>The hue controls

>> No.2473251

>>2472825

Kv11cr, Supposed to have "round" pixels.

>>2473135
heh, always liked this sort of thing.

>> No.2473453

>>2461545 here

Talked to a TV repair guy, my TV's voltage regulator is kill. Looks like I'll be hunting on Craigslist again.

>> No.2473703
File: 2.24 MB, 2608x1952, 264.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2473703

>> No.2473773

>>2473453
Did he mention how much a repair could cost?
Did he even looked in the insides of the TV?
Let me guess, he didn't even told you the name of the regulator. Well, if you can't solder or know somebody who can then this doesn't matter that much.

>>2473703
I remember that one, along with the original comment that said something like "This CRT is best CRT ever made and all other CRTs fucking suck".

>> No.2473843

>>2473453

do they even fix CRT tv anymore

I also have a crt that neeeds repairing its from the 50s

>> No.2473859

>>2473773

besides the Sony fw-900 it easily could be

>> No.2473951
File: 17 KB, 600x337, 00z0z_gY17eiVND5u_600x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2473951

Saw this this on local craigslist, is it any good? Looks cool with the door speakers. That's the only picture. Wants $100 for it, I find that nuts for any crt.

>> No.2473962

>>2473951
it is neat, but I'd rather spend that kind of money on something with much better picture

>> No.2474009

>>2473962
Do you know what it's actually called or model number?

>> No.2474019
File: 930 KB, 3280x2460, 102_0679.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2474019

>>2473951
>Wants $100 for it
No

It's a neat little set and the audio on it is rather crazy, but in no is it way worth anywhere near that much. You could likely manage to get a similarly sized PVM for that much.

>>2474009
Samsung GXTV, model number GXE1395.

>> No.2474053
File: 1.46 MB, 2460x3280, 100_1370.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2474053

>>2474019
Real shame that it's composite only. I'd use mine more often if it had s-video.

>> No.2474389

>>2468813
Time to grab a console and head to the nearest Goodwill anon. Do it before they stop carrying crt.

>> No.2474439

>>2473773
>>2473843
It was going to be $200-$300. I found a 20" Sony PVM locally, so I'm just going to buy that.

>> No.2474443

>>2473843
Also yes, TV repair guys still fix CRTs. I was pretty shocked about that to be honest, I expected them to tell me to GTFO.

>> No.2474686

With the FF7 remake announcement I figure I should actually go back and finish the original version. I have the Steam version but I wonder, how would the PS1 version off of PSN on my PS3 look hooked up to my big CRT in comparison to the PC version? I figure it might look "better" in that it might hide the imperfections some and that's the sort of display the assets were made for. Thoughts?

>> No.2474770

>>2474686
If the psn version only displays in interlaced 480 there wouldn't be much difference

>> No.2474949

>>2472817
The BN card (BKM-2056) is much the same as the BO card, I think. It's an Auto Set-Up Adaptor, auto chroma\phase adjustment, auto white balance and selection of colour temperature (6300K, 9600K, etc).

I'm not sure about the BP card. Ima check my BVM and see what it has...

>> No.2474953

>>2474949
You probably need the plug-in set-up probe to make the BN card work though...? I'm not sure about that part.

This is the 2nd Auschoice unit? How's it all going? What did you use to airblast it?

>> No.2474970
File: 11 KB, 400x320, de5631e5c25bbb53c5cac4646e52a00d_big.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2474970

On my way to get a JVC TM-1010 PN for $000 :D
So fucking excited but just 9"

>> No.2475018

>>2474970
I love both my PVM-9045s. That size makes for great little desktop units.

>> No.2475026

>>2474953
Used an air compressor with a fine nozzle. Used to think the picture was a bit on the dull side but I think it's just the lightness of the screen itself and how it easily it catches the light. Still the best picture I've ever seen.

>> No.2475087

>>2475018

I got it now and yes, you are right anon, it will be perfect to fit on my desktop. it has 2 composite inputs so I will be connecting NES and SNES (or maybe GC with Gameboy Player)

>> No.2475127

>>2475026
>Still the best picture I've ever seen.
I love hearing that. You went the BVM route, and now you're being rewarded.

>> No.2475151
File: 64 KB, 768x1024, larg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2475151

>>2464882
Couple pictures coming

A buddy of mine picked up my TV today (on top) and he picked up one for himself for the same price ($100) since the guy had a few more hanging around, although he says the picture on his is a bit worse.

>> No.2475153
File: 225 KB, 768x1024, larg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2475153

>>2475151
photo from mine

this is using s-video, still need to get an rgb setup for ud-cps2

>> No.2475154

>>2475151
20M4A/E/U's?

>> No.2475157

>>2475154
both are 20M4U's

>> No.2475282

>>2447318
Do you mean that the image looks terrible or something like that?

Maybe reinstall the calamity drivers, because it shouldn't be displaying at an 8-bit color palette.

>> No.2475769

I have a problem with the signal coming from my SNES (actually a super famicom), it looks a bit noisy, like little waves going through the picture. It's a real subtle effect, but it happens both via composite and RGB. I heard that bad PSUs can have this effect. Might this be the case here?

>> No.2475771
File: 14 KB, 325x190, Capture.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2475771

>> No.2475778

>>2475771
shoe-on-head retarded.

>> No.2476336

>>2475282
You don't need Calamity's crt_emudriver to run Soft15kHz. In fact, I'm not sure i can think of a situation where you'd want both...?

>> No.2476438

>>2475769
Is it an official one?

>> No.2477380

it's finally happening guys.

after two+ years of searching i get an email alert from craigslist.

PVM-14M EXCELLENT CONDITION $50

AND IT'S IN MY HOME TOWN, TWO MINUTES AWAY.

I don't even care what model of the 14m it is, i'm so excited i can't fucking wait.


thought i'd share

>> No.2477636

>>2476438
The PSU? No, it's a generic one.

>> No.2477646

>>2477380

Just be aware that some PVMs are composite only.

>> No.2477693

>>2477646
already checked, composite, svideo, rgb and component.

>> No.2478708

>>2477636
Odds are that's your problem then

>> No.2478959

I need a new /vr/ TV. Anyone have luck getting a Trinitron on ebay?

>> No.2478974
File: 1.54 MB, 2048x1536, Commodore_1802_brown_back2_Mike_Holmes.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2478974

So tomorrow, I'm picking up a Commodore 1802 for a spare room, and I'm kind of curious about the RCA luma/chroma inputs on the back.

From what I understand, luma/chroma and S-Video are the same format. With that said (and assuming I have the appropriate s-video cables), I could buy a female S-Video to 2x male RCA cable with these monitors, correct?

Just want some confirmation before I go out and start ordering cables.

>> No.2478983

>>2478974
I don't think you'll find an adapter that would actually separate the luma and chroma into separate rca cables. You could easily make one though

>> No.2479009
File: 188 KB, 1009x775, cablew.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2479009

>>2478983
I didn't think so either, but I'm pretty sure I've found exactly that on eBay.

It's described as follows,

"S-Video 4 Pin Female Mini DIN Adapter to convert standard Chroma Luma Signals from RCA Male to 4 Pin Female Mini DIN"

>> No.2479015

>>2478959
Best off getting one locally. Shipping these things is expensive, and rarely do people know how to pack them correctly for the dangers of UPS/FedEx handling.

>> No.2479386

>>2479009
Sounds like that's going to do the trick - yes, s-video is the same as luma/chroma just using the 4-pin mini din plug. The commodore monitors take luma chroma as separate signals.

Can anyone remember what the standard Amiga 500 AV connector cables used? I had a 1084s monitor, and i definitely didn't have Scart, so what would i have used? Composite? I can't remember the yellow video plug, only the red and black audio ports on the monitor...?

>> No.2479405

>>2479386
>Can anyone remember what the standard Amiga 500 AV connector cables used?

It had a db23 analog and digital RGB port and separate left and right audio RCA out. My Commodore 1085S has a db9 analog RGB input port

>> No.2479407

>>2479405
Yer, i remember the port on the Amiga end, i more meant the monitor i guess. Can't remember for the life of me if i had TTL RGB or analogue RGB, or neither and i just used composite.

>> No.2479413

>>2479407

The 1084s exist in various models, so I can't tell you what kind of inputs it has exactly.

But anyway, according to http://gona.mactar.hu/Commodore/monitor/Commodore_monitors_by_model_number.html , they had both analog and digital RGB (I think the digital one was meant for the C128), composite and Luma+Chroma.

>> No.2480443
File: 2.73 MB, 3861x2172, PicsArt_1434671802487.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2480443

>>2477380
It was a PVM-14M2U. Manufactured in 2000, this thing looks brand new. It needed no adjustments.

RGB

>> No.2480448
File: 1.69 MB, 2171x2399, PicsArt_1434672137801.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2480448

>>2480443
These were shot with my Galaxy S6 Edge free hand, still came out nice.

>> No.2480454

>>2480448
Aside from a slight bit of moire, that first one would make a fine wallpaper.
Looks great.

>> No.2480456
File: 969 KB, 3861x2172, PicsArt_1434672457173.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2480456

>>2480448
I had a SCART to CMPTR cable from retro cables for my busted PVM-1390, so I took it apart and made a SCART to BNC cable.

>> No.2480462
File: 1.04 MB, 3861x2172, PicsArt_1434672593337.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2480462

>>2480456
Waste not, want not.
>>2480454
Maybe I'll take some Darius Twin pictures on my SNES and compare them to the Wii ones you took.

>> No.2480467

>>2480448
Wow, that's an M2U? Looks amazing, nice pickup :)

>> No.2480515

>>2480467
I had to double check the back once I saw it in action. I can't imagine what the 4U with 800 lines looks like.

>> No.2480549

>>2480515
Bvm like without the perfect geometry

>> No.2481050

>>2480549
well, they were a lower colour grade too, but you rarely hear about that.

>> No.2481098
File: 1.42 MB, 3264x2448, IMG_20150619_010729.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2481098

I recently picked up a Toshiba 14AF46C and it's pretty nice, but when I run 240p Test Suite or Retroarch on my Wii, the bottom of the screen is noticeably chopped off. How would I go about fixing this? I already went through the TV's options menu and the settings there seem pretty limited. Is there a way I could get into a hidden servicing menu on this thing?

>> No.2481129

>>2481098
Normally a consumer set will need the remote. Unless its ancient, in which case it might have trimpots inside.

>> No.2481162

>>2481129
It's actually pretty recent, manufactured 2006. I have a remote for it of sorts, I was able to program it into my satellite reciever's universal remote. Like I said, the options menu is quite basic.

Strangely, it can handle 224p content well.

>> No.2481197
File: 538 KB, 2944x2253, IMG_20150619_022150.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2481197

>>2481162
Finally took a pic. Curse this stupid phone camera.

>> No.2481258

Can you get CRT television/monitors so I could use it for a PS1 and PC?

>> No.2481289

>>2481258
Do you mean a TV that can also used as a monitor? I think, there are ways to do that but it looks like shit, iirc.

>> No.2481308

>>2480448

The colors on this shot look a bit wrong though.

>> No.2481319

>>2481289
Shame

>> No.2481327

>>2481319
There are sets that can do this, like the NEC XM's. But those are pretty rare, and they're not the best PC monitors.

The other option the anon above is referring to, i think, is linedoubling for 15kHz content, probably with scanline insertion which can look kinda weird and wrong

>> No.2481338
File: 3.97 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20150619_042646[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2481338

And so ends my latest playthrough, in progress since like two years ago.

>> No.2481385
File: 3.99 MB, 5312x2988, 20150619_074805.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2481385

Built an RGB amp this morning, for my duo-r.

>>2481308
Just the picture, I'll try and take some using a fancy dslr.

>> No.2481390

>>2481258
Yes

>> No.2481413

>>2475771
>a magic box fixes the upscale limitations of LCD
huuurrrr

>> No.2481414

>>2468813
>tfw the power strip my PVMs are plugged into is turned off and my monitors are unplugged

>> No.2481424

>>2481414
fuck yes to disconnecting electronics when not in use.

>> No.2481431

>>2481414
>>2481424

I'm so glad I do that, and not just for power surges in my old house. I walked into my game room one day and saw my son continuously hitting the power button on my trinitron.

Probably would have fried it had there been power. HV is scary stuff.

>> No.2481437

>>2481424
Or at least get a power conditioner. All of my expensive electronics are connected to nicer UPSes.

>> No.2481445

>>2481431
Wow that's something I've never even thought of. The dangers of children on electronics. I will definitely remember that for the future.

>>2481424
>>2481437
We recently had two power outages in one day that killed the power supply on our fios modem. I realized last night I haven't used my monitors since. My 20L5 was unplugged so I shouldn't have had any reason to worry but I'm very OCD when it comes to my 20L5. I got really worried and checked it before bed last night and this morning before work.

If electronics are plugged into a power strip but the power strip is off do they still run the risk of a power surge? I might keep all my monitors unplugged from now on.

>> No.2481674

>>2481385
>3.6Mohm pullup resistors on THS7314
The recommended bias voltage is 0.68V which you get on a 3.3V supply with 3Mohm or 5.1Mohm on a 5V supply to make output bias half the supply voltage. But this on 5V will give you 0.9V will should work alright.
>C2 is 22µF and unpolarized in the schematic.
This is wrong but at least you soldered it correctly.

>>2481445
The great difference of the power button on virtually all CRT TV/monitors and most LCDs and alike is that the power button on CRTs fully disconnects it from mains while LCDs tend to have an standby or "power saving" button instead which does not disconnect the set from mains leaving it vulnerable to power surges and it also wastes (a very small amount of) power.

>If electronics are plugged into a power strip but the power strip is off do they still run the risk of a power surge?
Maybe, if there's a very high enough overvoltage which jumps through the opened switch then yes but there are also fuses and as well as noise (lowpass) filters in every good quality device which plugs into the wall which can help to protect it.
I think that an voltage of 3 megavolt can jump though 1 meter of air which means that 30 kilovolt could jump 1cm.

>I might keep all my monitors unplugged from now on.
If I think of actual CRTs I inspected which got damaged by an lighting then you better unplug it although I only saw shitty/cheap 2000s sets damaged by this.

>> No.2481679

>>2447597
Set up an external amplifier and hook up some noise cancelling headphones.

>> No.2481805
File: 1015 KB, 1236x1236, 20150619_133841.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2481805

>>2481674
>3.6Mohm pullup resistors on THS7314
i used 5.1M Ohm for that reason, hard to see in the pic though. i didn't change the printout because it was just a reference. i also opted for 0.1uF caps at input since i didn't have 82nF.
>This is wrong but at least you soldered it correctly.
yeah, all i had were electrolytic caps in 22uF. in theory (in my head at least) it should be fine, thoughts?

it was fun building it using SMD components, especially cutting the circle pads in half so the legs of the THS7314 would fit, pic related.

sure looks sloppy this close, damn.

>> No.2481834

>>2481805
>in theory (in my head at least) it should be fine, thoughts?
100nF alone should work but this circuit is connected with "long" wires and that's why it's a good idea to add more, like at least 4.7µF but looks like that I just complained about your printed schematic. What you actually built is perfectly fine.
I recommend to use any kind of shielded wire for the video lines if they gonna be longer than 7cm, this will keep the video signal clean and free from interference.

>> No.2481862

>>2481834
>I recommend to use any kind of shielded wire
thanks. i'm planning on it, the wires will be about 3 inches to the a/v jack, so slightly longer than 7cm.

i have tons of spare 3-6 inch lengths of RG-6 from BNC cables.

FYI:
got most info from https://assemblergames.com/l/threads/whats-currently-the-best-rgb-mod-for-the-pc-engine.45483/
but don't follow the silly drawings, just the schematic and help from posters (which is where i got the 5.1MOhm change)

>> No.2482152
File: 12 KB, 320x240, IMG_0805.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2482152

What's the best picture settings for pic related? Anyone with the same CRT wanna take a pic of their settings?

>> No.2482182
File: 234 KB, 554x302, Super Mario RPG Dead.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2482182

>> No.2482561
File: 1.89 MB, 1152x2048, IMG_20150619_182910.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2482561

rate my SCART

>> No.2483093
File: 3.99 MB, 4608x3456, ff3-apple.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483093

Hello, update from the guy who got a free PVM-20L5. I'm just gonna compare my Apple IIe composite monitor to my PVM when I'm at the same spot in Final Fantasy III on each.

I used the same famicom to take both pics, I simply have moved my flash cart into a nicer case.

First, the apple monitor. This is an old pic from ages ago. I still really like this monitor.

>> No.2483101
File: 3.08 MB, 4576x3116, ff3-pvm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483101

>>2483093
Here's the PVM.

I should add that I did multiple exposures to get these shots, but I did not have as long to work on the PVM one, because i had to leave and am currently about 400 miles away, unable to take more shots of it.

I combined the screen of one exposure and the background of another for each of these.

also, a question: Why the fuck do people go through a SCART cable and then a SCART to BNC cable, instead of just adding straight RGB outputs on the back of their consoles? I saved a ton of time (no waiting for shipping from the UK) by just making my own RGB outputs on my SNES (will post a pic next).

>> No.2483107
File: 2.75 MB, 4608x3456, snesmod2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483107

>>2483093
>>2483101
Should also add that I composite modded my famicom, if you didn't notice the 6-pin mini-DIN coming out the side of the console.

Inside my SNES, I added the equivalent of three 220uF capacitors (I only had one actual 220uF cap, so for the other two I substituted two 100uF's and two 10uF's in parallel for each). This is normally inside the SCART cable.

>> No.2483110

>>2440523
Alright, finally made it back.

The rainbow colors is probably the degausser activating. It stabilizes and stops wobbling when the degausser turns off.

Apart from that, absolutely no idea about the blue flash. Does this happen after it warms up? or IMMEDIATELY upon turning on the monitor? is it resuming from sleep or actually turning on?

>> No.2483114

>>2438184
>Those can be used for both the inputs and outputs, right?
Yes, but don't connect the adapters to the outputs unless you actually have something you are inputting to from it.

Otherwise it will mess up your image, making it too bright and giving it a (usually blue-ish) tint, due to incorrect termination.

>> No.2483115

>>2482152
care to tell us what 'pic related' is? like, an actual model number or something?
None of us are able to tell exactly the model number of any given CRT just by an image. All I can tell is that it's a trinitron.

Also, try to learn to color bar calibrate a TV. It will give you the 'best image'.

>> No.2483117
File: 333 KB, 1024x768, 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483117

>>2482152
Don't know what exact model your television is, but it looks exactly like mine.
These are the picture settings I personally use.
Sorry for the shitty picture.

>> No.2483126

>>2483117
Glad you're using warm color temperature.
In case someone doesn't know, 6500k is the standard temperature for monitors. Many consumer TV's default to 9300k, giving an overly bluish tinge. SMPTE recommends 6500k.

>>2455459
>So a question to all you guys using really high res monitors to display like, SNES games...
>Why?
I understand why you wonder. I used to as well. I think that I like the aliasing a little bit that the older TV's give, but the brightness levels and overall geometry of the image is also better on the high resolution sets.

I keep my apple IIe composite monitor around, though, because it provides a little bit of distortion and blurring, but less than a run-of-the-mill TV, due to needing to be high quality for computer images. See:
>>2483093

>> No.2483128

>>2483110

Wow, 20 days later.

It only happens as the monitor is warming up. My room looks like there's a lightning storm raging in here when it happens. It happens regardless of whether it's resuming from sleep or turning on. If the monitor is cold, it will flash blue.

>> No.2483129

>>2438768
mad catz/gamestop made a decent cable too for S-Video. I use the gamestop branded cable to this day. although I have modded my SNES for RGB out, I use S-video on non-RGB tv's.

>> No.2483130

>>2483101
>why SCART
because I do not wish to modify the exterior of my consoles if possible
also I can use existing SCART hardware like SCART switches
also I'm a eurofag so I can just use SCART with whatever TV I happen to come across. even flat panels usually still have SCART connectors

also not SCART specific, but I like the ability to send composite and S-video over the same cable should it be neccesary (unless I'm using CSYNC of course). I have my PVM hooked up so that the SYNC line passes through Line B first so I can also plug my RGB inhibited consoles in via the same SCART switch (regular TVs will switch automatically though because they use the RGB detect pin in the SCART)

>> No.2483132 [DELETED] 

>>2483129
The guy who recorded this is a friend of mine, this is S-video out of a gamestop cable. https://www.youtube.com/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropboxusercontent.com%2Fu%2F74519404%2Fcrono.mp4&redir_token=D07yM8Dzw5mHUFpsGrNd9luCV398MTQzNDg3MDAxNEAxNDM0NzgzNjE0

>> No.2483137

>>2483129
The guy who recorded this is a friend of mine, this is S-video out of a gamestop cable
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/74519404/crono.mp4

>> No.2483139

>>2483130
If you live in europe, that is totally fine. :)

I consider adding functionality to be worth modifying cases, though...

You got lucky; you have the good looking SNES case. America got the shitty one.

>> No.2483142

>>2483128
sorry ;_;

I have no internet, only cellular access, and I'm trying to keep from going over...

Anyway, can I see a video or something? (a webm, so I don't use as much data?)

If you want to link to a large file, warn me and I'll make my computer at home download it remotely, convert it to a smaller file, and I'll watch that here.

>> No.2483143

>>2483142

I'll try recording a video tomorrow when the monitor is cold again. I'll post it here.

>> No.2483147

>>2483143
Thanks.

I'm amazed how fast you're responding. Sorry for the long delay :(

Also been doing a shitload of heavy lifting and stuff, so I've been pretty exhausted at the end of days.

>> No.2483183

>>2483101
Not everyone can solder, or wants to learn :)

>> No.2483195

>>2483101
As for the SCART to BNC conversion deal, yeah, I don't want to cut up the back of my consoles, nor do I want to take the time to buy proper connectors to match each console and then spend the additional time to construct a proper cable. Plus, if I position the SCART end of the breakout cable properly, I can fairly easily swap between each console's output without buying a switcher.

>> No.2483225

>>2483183
everyone can and should learn to solder.
It is very liberating to be able to decide "I can do this myself" and get a job done. The electronics experience you get with it is extremely valuable, and knowing when a capacitor needs replacing can save a ton of money. I fixed an old oscilloscope that way, and it cost me $3 (for a high voltage rated capacitor) versus hundreds or thousands for a new oscilloscope. Also fixed two NESes that way.

>> No.2483242
File: 2.55 MB, 4608x3456, snesmod1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483242

>>2483195
>As for the SCART to BNC conversion deal, yeah, I don't want to cut up the back of my consoles, nor do I want to take the time to buy proper connectors to match each console and then spend the additional time to construct a proper cable. Plus, if I position the SCART end of the breakout cable properly, I can fairly easily swap between each console's output without buying a switcher.

If you don't want to, okay, but drilling three or four holes isn't really 'cutting up' a console like, say, shattering the shell with a hammer, or sawing through it would.

I did not 'construct' a cable, I simply used a RCA to BNC adapter (local radioshack/high end video/audio store), and a component RCA cable for R/G/B. I also opted to add a jack for sync, instead of using the composite output, but you can theoretically make only three holes if you use composite video for sync (taken from the original nintendo AV cable).

The only thing I constructed was the board with three capacitors on it, which took literally ten minutes (most of that time spent waiting for the soldering iron to heat up and looking for the correct capacitors). Outside the SNES, there is no custom wiring at all.
There is on my famicom, but that's because I wanted to only use one plug for everything. I could have used RCA jacks there as well.
If you have a famicom, you HAVE to 'cut up' the console, because it's RF only, and even if you can deal with RF, you have to have an RF tuner that goes to channel 94 or 95.

And RCA matches any console. :P

AND, if you enjoy cable swapping so much, might as well do it with RCA and save a load of money (unless you live in europe and already have SCART).

>> No.2483245

>>2483242
and anyway, why go through the adapter? why does no one make a straight multi-out to RGB BNC cable? That would make sense to me...

>> No.2483251

I just don't understand why people are so terrified of soldering. it's really easy to learn and suprisingly hard to fuck up. Worst case scenario, one of your solder jobs doesn't make contact and your added functionality doesn't work until you re-melt a bit of solder.

(well, truthfully, worst case you fuck up your console, but you won't unless you don't check for accidental bridges.)

>> No.2483258 [DELETED] 

STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING
THIS IS IMPORTANT
We've hit a critical breaking point in the fight against TPP. If you want 4chan to remain whole, then you NEED to join and help us!

>Operation Spotlight is an organized effort being created between multiple boards in 4chan, Reddit, YouTube, and any other news outlet we reach out to. This begins NOW, because people need to be informed and make the difference BEFORE the Senate vote!

Corporate greed has now solidified into a very real law of suffering known as the TPP. Do not be fooled - those that champion this bill as "free trade" are fully prepared to let Obama BYPASS congress and make deals that America has no say in. In fact, only 5 of the 29 chapters INVOLVE trade!

https://youtu.be/xzfxv2XQoPg [Embed]

>And the best part of these bills? You're not supposed to KNOW or CARE about it.

Thursday, the American House passed the TPA on a very close margin of 218-204.

>http://hotair.com/archives/2015/06/18/house-and-senate-to-vote-on-trade-bill-again-without-taa/

Now it moves to the Senate. This is the LAST line of defense before Obama can sign it.
We must not wait for the day it is voted on.
We must not sit idly by and let corporate lawyers swindle and mislead our Senate representatives.
WE MUST REMIND OUR SENATE REPRESENTATIVES WHO THEY ARE - VOICES OF THE AMERICAN PEOPLE.
But they won't know what you want if they can't hear you.

There are other bills similar that are coming - but first and foremost, TPP is priority.

The TPP includes:
>Allow major corporations to sue governments for expected loss of profit over legislation on a "maybe"
>Force ISPs to spy on people to enforce DRM/DMCA copyright law and possibly cut off internet access
>Get rid of the labeling on harmful products that say they're harmful (cigarettes)
>Removing the country of origin from packaged goods such as meat

>WE MUST TAKE A STAND. NOW!
>WE MUST INFORM OUR SENATORS
>SPREAD THE WORD

>I will get banned for this but this has to happen
>>>/pol/46738692

>> No.2483286

>>2483258
well, thanks.
first off, thank you for remionding us.
second, enjoy your ban.
third, this seriously is important, but not the topic of the board :P

>> No.2483341

>>2483225
I agree, i love tinkering and making my own repairs and mods, but it's not for all.

>> No.2483347

>>2483341
but it should be for all... :(

It's a confidence builder as well.

>> No.2483374

>>2483251
worst case you try to solder something in a cluster of 8084 size or smaller components and end up making a salad.

>> No.2483428

>>2482182
This is awesome.

>> No.2483569

>>2483374

>worst case you try to solder something in a cluster of 8084 size or smaller components and end up making a salad.

Either I don't know enough about electronics, or this sentence makes no sense.

>> No.2483640

>>2483569
agreed, what the fuck is an 8084 'size'?

What are the units? Is it an IC package or something?

>> No.2483805

OK, I am a noob. Is there any way I can get glorious 15khz 240p output from my PC on a CRT TV, preferably through component/YPbPr? I'm north of Burgerland, so no SCART for me.

>> No.2483874

>>2483115
>>2483117
The model number is RM-Y180

>> No.2483913
File: 1.20 MB, 3280x2460, 102_5119.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2483913

>>2483805
Custom drivers and a compatible video card paired with a transcoder.

>>2483874
That's the remote, not the TV itself.

>> No.2483928

>>2483913
Sorry, where do I check the T.V model. I can't find it anywhere on the CRT

>> No.2483942

New thread?

>> No.2484028

>>2483928
It'd be on a sticker on the back of the set, with some other information.
Model number should look like KV-24FS200 or something along those lines.

>>2483942
1 second.

>> No.2484041

>>2484028
Got it. It's KV-32fS100

>> No.2484063

>>2483942

New Thread
>>2484040
>>2484040

>>2484041
Giving recommendations on what would be the "best" settings for a TV is difficult as every single one is different and has it's own set of quirks and adjustments made to it straight out of the factory to make it look right.

To quote/paraphrase myself
If it has different preset options like sport or movie, either go with just standard or pro if available.
Keep VM, turn that off. It's nasty edge enhancement and just makes everything look like shit.
Sharpness - You don't want to put that too high for the same reason. Just like artificially sharpening an image introduces artifacting, the same goes for video.

Set brightness just high enough to avoid black crush, or losing detail in dark scenes. This is mainly to extend the longevity of your CRT. Higher Brightness=Faster Wear on the phosphors.
Setting color too high will make everything over saturated. Find a happy medium that gives you vibrant, but correct looking colors.

I'd also argue that you should adjust things to the point where they look good to your own eyes rather than searching for some pre-approved settings. If the TV has service menu of some kind, that's a completely different bag to deal with and not really something you can say "do this and it will be good." You need to cater to problems/oddities that your specific set has. For that - http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?248996 will be of help, but make sure you write down the original settings first.

>> No.2484070

>>2483093
>black PCB in an NES cart
Is that you, Batsly Adams or Heosphoros?

>> No.2484134

>>2484063
Ah sweet. Thanks for the advice

>> No.2484295

>>2484070
no, sorry.

And the black PCB is an everdrive N8.

>> No.2484301

>>2484295
Huh, I had no idea it came in black. I thought blue and green were the only possibilities.

>> No.2484303

>>2484301
I was suprised as well. Bought mine from stoneagegamer.

>> No.2484879

How is the 8 inch pvm? Is it a good size for a desk?

>> No.2485054
File: 427 KB, 1440x1080, 1434087493623.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2485054

>>2484879
Yes.

>> No.2485157

>>2439718
desktop background'd. Thanks