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/vr/ - Retro Games


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1995236 No.1995236 [Reply] [Original]

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Main_Page

Discuss any repairs or mods you're working on here!

General cleaning guide:
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

Service manuals (if you have any, please check the list and add what's missing):
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/List_of_service_manuals

>> No.1995240

>>1995236
Previous thread: >>1938410

>> No.1995458

Thanks for making a new thread. I updated the current thread link on the main page of the wiki.

What's the best way to archive these threads and either store or link to them on the wiki?

>> No.1995471

Any suggestions on what to replace a Panaflo FBS-06A12H with? Got one in my 128D PSU and it's starting to sound pretty bad.
Could I use a 3-pin computer fan? The connectors the same but I've no idea where the 3rd pin goes on the 128D.

>> No.1995504
File: 7 KB, 768x672, oshit.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1995504

>>1995458
I just save the page from the browser, with relative links, if I just want the text and such, not the uploaded images (thumbnails will save fine). If people would scour these threads for useful info to add to the wiki, that would be neato. Easier than asking hundreds of people to post all of their obscure knowledge at once.

Here are a couple archives of /vr/:
>>/vr/
http://archive.moe/vr/

>> No.1995509

>>1995471
The FBS-06A12H is a 24V 250mA fan. In theory, you could use any similar fan, but check their max RPM rating. You don't want some cheap POS turning into severe eye trauma. The third line is usually just to report the fan speed to the controller.

>> No.1995695

Can i use a 3.579545 MHz crystal on a Ntsc Snes instead of one with 21.47727 MHz? I read somwhere else that it should work but i want a second opinion.

>> No.1995717

>>1995695
>3.579545 MHz crystal on a Ntsc Snes instead of one with 21.47727 MHz
To replace original?
No, this will not work. But what are you trying to accomplish?

>> No.1995742

>>1995717
Overclock!

>> No.1995758

>>1995717
Restore the Ntsc clock.

>> No.1995761

>>1995742
Seriously?

>>1995758
Nope, that's the wrong way buddy.

>> No.1995957

>>1995761
Is there any equivalent to the 21.47727 MHz crystal oscillator? I can't find them in my country.

>> No.1996013

>>1995957
>Is there any equivalent to the 21.47727 MHz crystal oscillator?
No. Don't get the idea of making a variable oscillator, the color subcarrier must be very precise or else you wouldn't get color from S-Video or composite, if there's color then it would have the rainbow effect.
What could work would be a PLL based multiplier (3.579545Mhz*6=21.47727Mhz) but good luck getting something like that to work, i couldn't even build that myself.

>I can't find them in my country.
So you live in europe or a not NTSC country.
Try your luck on ebay or something, i couldn't find them in germany either.

I think i get what you're trying to do.
You want to 50/60hz mod a 1chip PAL SNES, right?

>> No.1996046

>>1996013
>so you live in europe or a not NTSC country.

Brazil.
Consoles used to be transcoded to pal-m in a really poor way, all i want to do is convert it back to Ntsc.

>try your luck on ebay or something, i couldn't find them in germany either.

I think this is the only way, i can find them here, actually, but they are overpriced as fuck, i can buy 3 crystal here and with the same money buy 100 on Ali Express, it's ridiculous. Thanks anyway.

>> No.1997751
File: 20 KB, 548x372, br-80-eraser.group.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1997751

So, which side should I use for cleaning dirty contacts? For controllers I mean.

>> No.1997762

>>1997751
The pink side is the softer side. Use that one.

>> No.1997789

>>1997762
Thanks, how should I deal with rubber leftovers? I'm pretty paranoid about leaving invisible traces inside.

>> No.1997798

>>1997789
That's why I prefer isopropyl alcohol and q tips. Use lots of compressed air and micro fiber cloth or coffee filters.

>> No.1997814

>>1997798
I tried with isopropyl alcohol but I stood there cleaning the same button for hours while my q-tips were getting pitch black. It worked for a while but then the buttons became stiff again and I thought erasers might be a more effective solution.

>> No.1997817

>>1997814
Well if the q tips are turning black then they're cleaning junk. How dirty are we talking? Usually when buttons stick it's the rubber dome and not the contact. But if your controller is filled with junk that's another story.

>> No.1997839

>>1997817
No no by stiff I didn't mean sticky, they just don't press until you push really hard. The plated contacts look like they're washed out but I don't think that's relevant since the last cleaning worked out really well.

It's a genesis controller, by the way. This one also has some some strange behaving, like occasionally registering left/right when pressing up/down.

>> No.1997860

>>1997839
If the contacts on the pcb are supper clean maybe the rubber domes are just worn out? Does happen. No idea whos making pads for Genesis stuff.

>> No.1997872

>>1997860
It's official. The black stuff I get from qtips while cleaning the contacts is likely to come from the rubber domes. What should I do if they wear out? Or rather how do I know if they're no longer good? They look okay to me.

>> No.1997893

>>1997872
>The black stuff I get from qtips while cleaning the contacts is likely to come from the rubber domes
Wouldn't using too much isopropyl alcohol on the rubber risk drying it out?

>> No.1997904

>>1997893
I don't know? Rubber is meant to stop current flowing there, right? Does it matter it's dry? And if it leaves black stuff behind is it dry? I look like some mad man torturing his poor controller.

>> No.1997913

>>1997904
>Rubber is meant to stop current flowing there, right?
It's there to hold the bit to bridge the contacts, and has to be non conductive as a result.

Is it the rubber itself that is stiff? The conductive bit on the rubber is supposed to be look flat, not shiny(if I'm remembering correctly).

>> No.1997940

>>1997904
>>1997872
I don't know who or if new pads are made for Genesis stuff. It seems to most likely be your problem. In the mean time use soap and water to clean the pads and the alcohol to clean the contacts.

>> No.1997960
File: 106 KB, 1600x1200, 111020141180.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1997960

>>1997913
>>1997940
The rubber pads seem to be mostly shiny, some of them have subtle opaque stripes.

Pic related for the contacts, B is the toughest motherfucker to push, but A and C have been getting tougher for no reason, even if they looked the same as I last cleaned them.

>> No.1998323

>>1997960
You shouldn't bake your potato before trying to take a picture with it.

>> No.1998493

>>1997814
>>1997817
I used to think the same thing about cotton swabs turning black being indicative of a dirty pad. I've cleaned many controllers, and I've noticed that some pads will still appear dirty after a dozen q-tips, but they still work perfectly. I think the material used in those pads differs from controller to controller, and some will become worn down from isopropyl alcohol and continuously blacken cotton swabs.

I go by two rules of thumb when cleaning conductive pads:
1. Dull = clean, shiny = dirty
2. It should never take more than 3 cotton swabs to clean a pad enough for effective use.

>> No.1998559

I know it's not strictly vr related but... Any advice on removing plastic residue from a GC controller? I was given one from my neighbor because he was moving out and sold his gc years ago but the thing came with small patches of a residue of something like silicone or melted plastic. I tried to run some light sand paper on it with no success and also tried to wash it with a metal sponge.

>> No.1998565

>>1998559
>sand paper
>steel wool
You already fucked it up.

>> No.1998584

>>1998565
Well... those were the extreme solutions I came up with after trying everything that I typically try for stuff like this. But seeing that the sand paper and steel wool it did nothing more than waste a couple of minutes of my time and nothing to the controller I fail to see where I fucked up.

>> No.1998590

>>1998584
Use some isopropyl alcohol.

>> No.1998598

>>1998590
I already tried, but the residue only turns sticky and won't come off

>> No.1998609

>>1998598
goo gone then. If that doesn't work idk what will.

>> No.1998684

>>1998598
Try vegetable oil and some elbow grease.

Afterward alcohol will take the oil off no problem.

>> No.1999707
File: 173 KB, 467x600, 3328807_orig.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1999707

Anyone got tips for fixing up some gameboy/gbc/gbas? or where i can get spare parts, shells, buttons etc? I was thinking for painting my old ones, adding new screens with a backlight and giving them away as gifts to a friend or two.

Pic related. I'd love to get my gbc looking like this for some reason.

>> No.1999817
File: 1.94 MB, 3264x1836, 20140902_174156.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
1999817

>>1999707
I'm not sure where you live but there is a store in NYC called Videogames New York and they sell those parts you're looking for. You can probably check their site or give them a call to see if they deliver Gameboy parts if you don't live in the area.

>> No.1999843

How conceivable would it be to remove the R button from a broken N64 controller and move it to my own controller which is otherwise functional except for a broken R button?

>> No.1999857

>>1999843
What kind of broken is the R button?

>> No.1999930

>>1999857
It's something wonky with the circuitry making it think its constantly being pressed down. It's not dirty, and I've cleaned it more than once before you ask about that.

>> No.1999940

>>1999930
Check the wires connecting it to the main board and the traces to see where it's shorting. If it's constantly reading as on, then there's a short somewhere in its circuit, and just swapping the parts out might not fix it.

>> No.1999949

>>1999940
ffff I don't have a multimeter. Thanks for the info though.

>> No.1999954

>>1999707
Ebay, search for "game boy (color/advance) replacement shell" and you'll find everything you asked for, they arent that expensive either.

Also if seller is from china it'll will take while to arrive.

>> No.1999960

>>1999949
You shouldn't really need one. Traces in an N64 controller are pretty sparse, so they're easy to follow. You just have to look out for anything odd that might be causing the problem.

>> No.2000103

What should I buy to be able to get professional quality disc resurfacing?

>> No.2000114

>>1999817
>tfw that stuff exist
Holy mother of fuck, now i'm jelly.

>> No.2000142

>>1999817
Shame. I'm in the UK and they website I found doesn't sell anything like that. Shit. So can't get anything shipped over.

>>1999954
Thanks for that I found plenty.

Anyone got any tips on painting the shells? What type of paint etc?

>> No.2000263

How hard is it to replace the little black spindle that the disc fits onto (PS1)? I bought a pair of Playstations at a thrift store - they cleaned up nicely and power on, but they need that little spindle.

>> No.2000268

>>2000263
The whole optical assemblies go for pennies on evilbay.

>> No.2002580

bump

>> No.2004348

>>2000142
>Anyone got any tips on painting the shells? What type of paint etc?

After cleaning and drying the shells, I used Krylon Fusion satin finish. The problem is, letting it cure for TWO WEEKS before touching it. Get impatient, and your finish will be SHIT.

>> No.2005773

>>2004348
2 WEEKS?
You sure your area isn't high in humidity?

>> No.2005786

>>2005773
The shed I left everything curing in was pretty dry, and it didn't rain much that summer, but this was like seven years ago or so.

>> No.2005795
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2005795

>>2005786
weird
the humidity and temperature fucked with the drying time of my SNES paint job (spent 2 hours outside "drying", was super tacky when I brought it inside, where it dried in approx 20 mins) but I think it came out nice, except for the bottom, which bubbled up cause I'm stupid and sprayed too heavy.

>> No.2005805

>>2005795
I painted mine into the GeneSNES. Been using it for so long, that a regular SNES looks weird to me now.

>> No.2005809

>>2005805
black and red? that's pretty sick. I'm going with Black and Purple (eject button black, power and reset purple, the rest black). Dunno if trying to save the silkscreening (ie the logo, eject, power and reset) is worth the effort.

>> No.2005813

>>2005795
>I think it came out nice
That's good because it made me throw up a little in my mouth.

>> No.2005816

>>2005809
I didn't bother, but I did mine for me, not for internet adulation.

>>2005813
Remember to inhale as hard as you can when that happens, alright?

>> No.2005818

>>2005813
my phone's camera is a bit shit
oh god who am I kididng

>> No.2005824
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2005824

Anyone know about getting labels? I have a game boy GB80 carrying case that my mom got me when I was little. My cousin who is an ass used the case as a table and spilled his drink on it and mostly pealed off the screen sticker. I have seen that the cases are fairly cheap on ebay around $25. However I have some sentimental attachment with this case since my mom gave it to me and she passed a couple years ago.

>> No.2005830

>>2005824
can't you scan the label and reprint it onto good glossy sticker paper?

>> No.2005837

>>2005830
My printer is an Hp Photosmart 5520, it doesn't support label printing.

>> No.2005845

>>2005837
There are sites that will make stickers if you supply the images. The place of arts and cow that does low-cost custom mousepads and watches may do stickers, but I dunno. Never had adhesive stickers made before.

>> No.2005850

I'm the anon from last thread who wanted to bivert his Game Boy Pocket. The 74HC04 IC chip is finally here but someone mentioned that soldering directly to the pins might cause overheating.

Is it trues? Is this something I should be weary of?

>> No.2005873

>>2005845
expanding on this, try looking for sites that do vinyl stickers, cause they're tough and look nice

>> No.2005874

>>2005845
I looked around and the sites for stickers must be ordered in sets of 50.....I should use the other 49 and put them all over my cousins car.

>> No.2005923

>>2005824
You could scan it but personally I'd lay out a new one. It's very basic. Of course your printer can print labels. In fact it's ideal because it's an ink jet so you'll get solid colors like the original instead of screened if you used a laser. Looks like 3 corners are 5mm and the large one is 20mm.

>> No.2005929

>>2005850
Did you get DIP or surface mount? If you use an >9000 watt iron you can fry most any chip. I use 40w for SMD and never damaged a chip.

>> No.2005936

>>2005929
DIP, thought it'd be easier and safer. Plus, I don't plan on stuffing other mods in there except for the backlight.

I do have a 40W iron, yes.

>> No.2005941

>>2005873
Nice thing is these are usually laminated as well. And if they print vinyl they probably have a cutter plotter so you could just send them a file and get back finished labels.

>> No.2005942

>>2005936
As long as you don't leave the soldering iron on the chip overnight or something you'll be fine.

>> No.2007817

Technically not vr but it's being used to play retro.

What can I use to clean a GC Wavebird? I think it needs one of those special screwdrivers. I just want to clean in the cracks since the buttons stick often.

>> No.2007842

>>2007817
a tri-wing?

>> No.2007845
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2007845

I'll ask here rather than making a new thread.

Whats the best way to hook up a Dreamcast VGA box to a tv that only has HDMI & Component, would somthing like pic related work?

>> No.2007856

>>2000263
You can use one off an old portable cd player. It comes off with a butter knife if you pry up on it.

>> No.2007874

>>2007845
>only has HDMI & Component
If it's an analog CRT I'd suggest just using RGB off of the Dreamcast and using an RGB to Component converter. Or get a VGA CRT monitor/TV and use VGA directly

If it's a digital TV, get a VGA to HDMI converter box.

>> No.2007884

>>2007874

It's a digital TV, I'll look into a VGA to HDMI converter then, cheers. It's hard to find CRT monitors or TVs in the Australian town I live in.

>> No.2007894

>>2007884
I don't blame you. American here. On top of living in the middle of nowhere, SCART and RGB capable TV's/monitors are nearly non-existent here except for professional monitors, which only have BNC for RGB. While I'm very satisfied with what I've gotten set up and I've found it worth it overall, it certainly wasn't cheap getting the monitor, cables, switches, and modding consoles.

>> No.2008371
File: 559 KB, 2235x1604, 2014-10-16 18.52.40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008371

1/3
Just got my gbc replacement shell.
Buttons that come with it werent that great but I was able to reuse old ones, but other than that I love it so far.

>> No.2008384
File: 581 KB, 2130x1604, 2014-10-16 18.53.26.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008384

>>2008371
2/3
Also it feels different, like my old one(yellow) feels smooth, while new one(green) isn't, I dont know how to explain it but they dont feel identical but Im starting to like new one more.

>> No.2008401
File: 563 KB, 2965x1474, 2014-10-16 19.20.38.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2008401

>>2008384
3/3
Gbc logo is terribly off, but at least its not scratched to hell.

>> No.2008950

>>2008401
I'm pretty sure you can find a better screen on eBay for cheap. The sweatshop that makes those shells can't seem to get the Color logo right.

Hell, the shells themselves aren't very good.

>> No.2009034
File: 40 KB, 600x388, MK_B_Ding[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2009034

Not directly game related I suppose, but I got a game cib in the mail today, it was packaged stupidly and a corner of the box got crushed a bit like pic related.

Are there any tricks to getting a box back into shape, like folding flat it to try and smooth out the crumpled parts? I know you can't really get a damaged box back into perfect condition again but if I could make it more pleasant to look at that'd be nice

>> No.2009038

>>2008950
Logo is indeed terrible, but outside of that and buttons its alright

>> No.2009078

>>2009034
Not without opening and ironing it, I don't think so.

>> No.2009120

>>2009078
Ironing it?
It's not sealed or anything, I can open it fine

>> No.2009189

>>2009120
Yes, flatten the box and put a piece of cloth on top of it. Iron it.

It won't look perfect but you might be able to straighten it up a bit.

>> No.2010309

>>2008401
why would you even buy a replacement shell when it looks like that. it's probably cheaply made too and will break

why not just buy a GBC in better condition instead of wasting your time with that horrible knockoff shell

>> No.2010386

>>2010309
>why would you even buy a replacement shell when it looks like that.
Only problem is that logo, and Im not autistic enough to care about it.
>it's probably cheaply made too and will break
I've been using it for while now and it feels solid, and nowadays I dont carry it around that often so Im sure it will last for long time.
>why not just buy a GBC in better condition instead of wasting your time with that horrible knockoff shell
Why? My GBC works fine and it was only shell that was scratched and bad condition, so I just deiced to buy shell and it looks fine and feels solid so far.

>> No.2010602

>>2009034
Stick a square dowl into the corner and press it on a flat surface.

>> No.2012292

I have an Ascii-ware SNES advantage that I just got from eBay and the turbo switch for the Y button appears to not work, which is grossly inconvenient, since its really the only one I really want or need to work.

Any tips or ideas as to why? The others appear to work just fine. Im gonna break it down this weekend to retrobright the yellowing off it so I'll be able to take a better look.

>> No.2012446

>>2012292
Possible that the switch is damaged, which should be no big deal to replace, beyond sourcing a physically identical design.

>> No.2012469

>>2010386
Most collectors are perfectionists about their collecting. I know quite a few people that would bother the hell out of

>> No.2012557

>>2012469
Thats their problem, in the end its my handheld and I dont give a fuck what they think about it, and to me that logo doesnt matter at all since console itself works and screen isnt scratched as fuck(which was reason I changed that shell in first place).

>> No.2015657

bump

>> No.2015681

>>2012557
You do realize that they offer new screens and they're much simpler to install then an entire shell switch, right?

>> No.2015935

Do any of you think that a battery acid leak would require anything more than a light cleaning for my GBC?

>> No.2015967

>>2015681
You do realize that I didn't buy it for just for screen, right?

>> No.2015978

>>2015935
Battery acid bad stuff. make sure it's cleaned.

>> No.2016008

>>2015967
So buy a used game boy color

>> No.2016147

>>2015935
I've done a thorough examination of your GBC and can offer you a detailed and professional opinion on how you should proceed.
Seriously? No pics or even description and you expect a serious answer?

>> No.2016243

>>2015935
vinegar and toothbrush
werks every time

>> No.2016419

I'm a PALfag and I bought a SuperCIC recently.
How do I install? Any ultra-detailed guides?

>> No.2016685

>>2016008
Are you autistic of something? Before my GBC (and do note that it did work before too) had scratched screen, somewhat beaten-up shell and hard-to-press A/B button(rubber pad was broken), and now it works perfectly.

And this is repair/mod thread, you shouldn't be saying "lol just buy new one" when you can fix your old one easily.

>> No.2017730

The verification thing on both the wikis isn't working, so unregistered users can't edit.

>> No.2017737

>>2017730

I'm a registered user and I couldn't edit the emulation wiki a few minutes ago

>> No.2017746

>>2017737

Looks like I wasn't a "verified user" because my email wasn't set. Now it lets me make edits.

>> No.2017752

>>2016419
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/snes-switchless-modchip/

this one is pretty detailed

>> No.2018740

Is it possible to do the genesis region mod with a on/off switch instead of a on/on?

>> No.2018774
File: 118 KB, 1100x1258, ux_a10110200ux0079_ux_g03.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2018774

>>2018740
That depends, does it have a second "pole" on it? A switch is a switch it doesn't matter what kind you use as long as it has enough poles and throws for what you're doing.

Since you're doing a region mod you'll probably need a "single pole double throw" switch like this one(it doesn't necessarily have to look like this one though). This is a switch can change between two unique positions.

>> No.2018786

>>2018774
>does it have a second "pole" on it?
I got that mixed up. Should be "throw"

>> No.2018802

>>2018774
>>2018786

Well, mine is the same as your pic, on/off, 3 terminals.

>> No.2018804 [DELETED] 
File: 58 KB, 300x250, ezflasheverdrive.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2018804

I have purchased several EZ Flash IV carts from this seller zercath.ecrater.com for resale at Ebay which end up selling for double the price at Bid $120-$130

>> No.2018809

>>2018802
That should work then.

>> No.2019621

>>1995236
i know gc isn't retro but i don't know where else to ask. What's the best way to go about fixing a loose game cube analog stick? And would it be easy for me to try to go about fixing it myself? if there's a better thread for me to go to ask, it'd be great to know. I'm 100% sure making a thread on /v/ would get me nowhere

>> No.2020337

how difficult is it to go about replacing the battery in a pokemon game? what specific batteries do I need? what tools will I need to do the job?

>> No.2020473

>>2020337
The battery type you need is CR2025.
If you're not installing a battery holder, you want to get a tabbed CR2025.

Tools you need are a basic electronics soldering set, and rosin core flux.

>> No.2020475

>>2020473
>and rosin core flux.

Solder, not flux.

Sneezing thirty times in a row scrambles your brain up good.

>> No.2020538

>>2020473
>tabbed CR2025.

so like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171280306930?lpid=82

I see a listing for CR1616 will that work as well or does it have to be 2025?

do you know a place or a seller on ebay where I can get them for really cheap? I want to be able to pay ≤ $5 for pokemon games, so getting them for cheap is absolutely necessary.

also what diameter is the rosin core? I know it has to be a specific diameter or something, and 60/40 I think

what brands would you recommend? I don't want to get a shitty brand and do a shitty job

know any good soldering guides? general does and don'ts, beginners guides, recommended tool-sets etc. one for replacing the batteries specifically would be nice

sorry for asking all these questions. I just want to be absolutely sure I know what I'm doing before I do anything

>> No.2020582

>>2020538
>I see a listing for CR1616 will that work as well or does it have to be 2025?

I don't remember the differences off the top of my head, so I can't recommend getting a different type.


>do you know a place or a seller on ebay where I can get them for really cheap?
If you're only looking for one, this looks fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Game-Boy-Gameboy-Color-Game-Save-Battery-CR2025-W-Welded-Tabs-for-Pokemon-/170988998574?pt=US_Video_Game_Batteries&hash=item27cfbd0fae

>also what diameter is the rosin core? I know it has to be a specific diameter or something
Diameter doesn't much matter. You just have to be a bit more careful when using larger diameter, so you aren't putting down too much.

>what brands would you recommend?
Weller makes good irons. Brand on solder doesn't really matter.

>know any good soldering guides?
This is the video I recommend for basics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPLD3fYfEYc
There's nothing on batteries, but the only thing you really need to know about them is to not let them get too hot.

I suggest finding some broken electronics and practicing on them until you feel comfortable.

>> No.2020672 [DELETED] 

I recently purchased this PVM http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400625114065?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649

I'm a PAL bro, but I assume I just need a SNES SCART cable and a female(male?)SCART-RGB adapter and plug that into the RGB ports on the back? Also, can I use a PAL SCART cable with my GameCube and 64 like I can with AV cables?

Sorry for the obvious questions.

>> No.2020693

>>2020538
If replacing a battery in a Pokemon game is all you wish to do with soldering, you might be better off finding someone to do it for you. Soldering is definitely something that old game collector's should be familiar with, but if you don't plan to mod or repair other stuff, it might be more money and hassle than it is worth. You also want some solder braid and/or a solder sucker/pump to remove solder in case anything needs to be de soldered (or if you put down too much solder and make a sloppy job). The chances of screwing something up are high if it is your first try, so be careful.

Looking online though, it seems like you can just tape a new battery in place in a G/S cart, so maybe just try that?

>> No.2020703

>>2016685
I meant find one for parts. Or get a new one.

Either are better options

>> No.2020714

>>2020693

well I want to use this as a gateway to other shit. I figured I'd start with the simple stuff first.

I have a snes that needs a new power jack as well, so I need to learn how to solder to get that fixed up. the plastic is in amazing condition, no yellowing and not a single crack on it. The only thing that seems to be wrong with it is the missing power jack

I was also looking to learn how to refurbish consoles so I can sell them to make some extra money for my collection and other shit I need. I've been looking at getting a new media shelf to store my games since the one I have now is tiny as fuck. I also want to get a new tv stand because my old one has already run out of room for more consoles. I have my gamecube just sort of sitting on the floor in front of it because I have nowhere to put it.

>> No.2021189

I want to make my own cables for my model 2 genesis, I would like to know what's the name of the connector, I know the model 1 uses a connector named DIN-5, but I don't know the name of the 2nd model one.

>> No.2022235

>>2021189
>I want to make my own cables for my model 2 genesis

They're like fucking two dollars each. Just buy a garbage bag full.

>> No.2022245

>>2021189
They're all sega connectors. They use different pins depending on the model/signal.

>> No.2022285
File: 18 KB, 300x271, 32xpin.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2022285

>>2021189
Mini DIN-9, I believe.

>> No.2022468

>>2022235
What if he doesn't want a garbage bag of garbage cables? I built my own because I wanted to plug my genesis into my component TV without a huge scart connector and converter box. Forget the trash bag. I'll take a whole dumpster full of those at two dollars each.

>> No.2022570

>>2022245
>>2022235
Sega consoles are not very common where I live, and ebay/amazon is out of the question, I got lucky to find one sega genesis, even if it doesn't came with the cables, only one controller and streets of rage 2.

I already made my own AC adapter.

>> No.2023054

>>2022468
>>2022570
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-a-lot-AV-Audio-Video-Cable-for-SEGA-Genesis-2-and-3-ES003/1360544146.html

Closer to $3 each.

>> No.2023085

>>2023054
>Here's a garbage bag of garbage cables. Exactly like you said you didn't want.
How useful!

>> No.2023106

>>1999707
The only trouble you'll have with a lit GBC is battery life. I would suggest looking into a rechargeable battery mod too.

>> No.2023140
File: 789 KB, 1400x512, Genesis 2 and 32X video comparison with Ranger X.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2023140

>>2023085
Spoken like somebody who knows jack shit about electronics. The cables exist solely to transmit signal from the video encoder in the game system, to the display device. Unless the wires are made of tin, and the sheathing is gallium arsenide, it won't fucking matter.

Example of what Chinese cables look like.

>> No.2023178

>>2023140
>Unless the wires are made of tin, and the sheathing is gallium arsenide, it won't fucking matter.

Those cheap cables usually have no sheathing. Or rather, the ground line is not sheathing, just a thin, second twisted wire inside the cable - it doesn't "cover" the signal cable to provide any interference protection. They are so thin for a reason...

Also remember that if he solders his own cables, he can get them done on the same afternoon, while buying shit from china will take near a month to arrive - if it arrives.

About the only downside is that soldering 9-pin mini-din is a bitch.

>> No.2023203

>>2023140
>I didn't bother to read then thread and said something stupid
>So instead of going back and reading I'll just say more of the same stupid

>> No.2023929

>>2023203
I have a degree and evidence backing me up, so believe what you want.

>> No.2023935

>>2023929
if that were actually true then how could monster get away with charging $90 for hdmi cables

checkmate

>> No.2024026

>>1997960
the pads should be dull not shiny

http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Game_and_Console_Cleaning

>> No.2024384

>>2023929
Don't really care what you do but do suggest you go back and read what you're responding to so you stop looking like an ass.
Or maybe your "degree and evidence" allow you to magically get a component signal out of those composite cables?

>> No.2024518

>>2023935
The same way Beats or Bose sell $300 headphones, stupid people.

>> No.2024548

>>2024518
I'm sorry, what?

Yes, it's true that the only reason to spend $90 on an HDMI cable is if there are four $20s in the box, but you do realize that not all headphones are created equal, right? There is a huge difference between a pair of $10 Cobys and a pair of $300 Audio-Technicas.

>> No.2024723

>>2024548
Yeah, about a $290 difference. I'm not saying that the absolute cheapest is always the way to go, but some items are grossly overpriced/hyped.
Middle of the road price is usually the best way to go, especially for something like a cable.
And as to the headphones, I actually just bought a pair of monoprice do style headphones for $20 that sound very good for the price. I also own a pair of ATH m 50 that cost about $100 more, and I don't really hear that much of a difference between them.

>> No.2024725

>>2024723
DJ style

>> No.2024778

how the fuck do i get rid of the bright verticle line on my super nintendo

>> No.2024784

>>2024778
The only way I know is doing the RGB mod on the 1chip and Snes Jr. The other models I don't know, I just learned to live with them.

>> No.2024949

>>2024784
shit
it's fucking annoying on games like super metroid

>> No.2024954

>>2024784
Even that isn't a definite fix; It will greatly reduce it but it won't get rid of it entirely.

>> No.2024965
File: 57 KB, 1896x1178, Turbo-Duo-Cap-Map[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2024965

anyone have a turbo duo they could open up and take pictures of for me? a friend of mine got one that the previous owner fucked up hardcore. He needs to reconnect capacitors 105 and 110 but there aren't any good quality pics online showing where they trace to. so if any of you guys have one and could take pics of those it'd be really appreciated

>> No.2026228

>>2024965
You might have to trace them yourself with a multimeter and a magnifying glass.

Did the previous owner tear off one of the solider pads for those caps?

>> No.2026359

>>2024784
RF & Composite suffer the worst. The more chroma/luma separation, the less noticable it seems. On a true s-video only cable; I can barely see the line in dark areas on my plasma tv; but with composite, it's readily noticed.

If interested, be sure to use a cable that offers only s-video out. The majority of multi-out cables I found that have comp & s-vid plugs, actually are wired wrong and only offer comp through s-vid.

Never had a chance to try SCART, cant speak for it.

>> No.2026487

>>2026228
he somehow gouged them out with like an xacto knife or something so he can't even tell where they originally traced to

>> No.2026494

>>2026228
>>2026487
the first "he" being the original owner and the 2nd being my friend. I'm not good at words right after I wake up

>> No.2026650

>>2017730
>>2017737
>>2017746
Just to follow up, ASIRRA, the captcha that was being used, was taken offline indefinitely:
https://research.microsoft.com/en-us/projects/asirra/default.aspx
And needs to be replaced.
https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Category:Spam_management_extensions

>> No.2026820
File: 336 KB, 1164x918, front.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2026820

I got a my GBC today and the speaker doesn't work. I can't figure out why

any ideas?

>> No.2026823
File: 364 KB, 1246x918, back.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2026823

>>2026820
here's the back

the connections to the board look poorly done. perhaps this is the cause?

>> No.2026838

>>2026823
>>2026820
The solder connections look fine, but it wouldn't hurt to reflow the solder if you have a soldering iron.

>> No.2026868

>>2026823
The connection to the board looks fine. Do you get audio with headphones?

>> No.2026985

>>2026820
Replace the speaker. You can get them cheap on ebay.

>> No.2026987

>>2026868
yeah I tested the sound with my porta pros and it works fine so it's definitely the speaker

>>2026838
>reflow the solder

I'm not sure what this means. you mean like re-solder the connections to the board?

>> No.2026995
File: 10 KB, 214x320, img20130212075608838.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2026995

This speaker is inserted in an earphone terminal.

>> No.2027023

>>2026823
Measure the impedance of the speaker by using a multimeter in the low resistance range setting (a speaker usually has 4-16 ohms) an putting the probes on both solder joints on speaker, i measured 8 ohms on my spare GBC.

>>2026987
>you mean like re-solder the connections to the board?
Not him but yes.

>> No.2027087
File: 12 KB, 225x225, multimeter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2027087

>>2027023

well I'm not sure if did it correctly, but I set the multimeter to 10X and put the probes on the solder joints on the speaker. I got ~1-2 ohms

there's a little adjustment wheel on the side of the multimeter for making ohms measurements but I'm not sure how to properly use it. Even with it set to max and min the ohms range is still 1-2 roughly

pic related is the one I was using btw

>> No.2027113

>>2027087
>I set the multimeter to 10X
Means that the readout is 0.1 of the actual value.

>I got ~1-2 ohms
10ohms seems to be alright, 20ohms could be inaudible.

>there's a little adjustment wheel on the side of the multimeter for making ohms measurements but I'm not sure how to properly use it.
You measure a resistor like 100ohms 1% and set to 10X and adjust the arrow to 10ohms.

You should resolder the speaker and check headphone socket.
Pins 1-3 go the the headphones and pin 4 is ground and shorted to 5 if there AREN'T headphones connected.

>> No.2027519

>>2027113

what kind of solder should I use? is 60/40 rosen core standard for all electronics or am I supposed to use different ones for different things

I'm really new to soldering so any beginners guides would be appreciated

>> No.2027595
File: 331 KB, 1921x1280, IMG-20141025-WA0002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2027595

A friend gave me this snes, and the flex from the controller port is in this shape. So it's obviously not working.

I was wondering if I can solder these things on the controller board, to the connector of the snes board. And how are they supposed to be connected.

>> No.2027621

>>2017730

Apparently new users can't register either

>> No.2027647

>>2017752
Tried This, broke my SNES.
Now I have a shell of an SNES. Can I fit a computer inside it and make a dedicated emulation machine?

>> No.2027678

>>2027519
You could look up some youtube tutorials and practice with something else.

>>2027595
You could repair this flex as it is a little to long.
Make the edge even so that you could plug it in and expose the metal by using sandpaper or something.
I did this on the my DS lite, i damaged the end of the touchscreen flex and managed to repair it by doing this.

>>2027647
>broke my SNES.
And how?

>> No.2027717

>>2027678
>how
Soldering was too hard, accidentally spilled tin to places where I shouldnt've.
Would it be feasible to push a raspberry pi inside mit?

>> No.2027723

>>2027678
>You could repair this flex as it is a little to long.
>Make the edge even so that you could plug it in and expose the metal by using sandpaper or something.
>I did this on the my DS lite, i damaged the end of the touchscreen flex and managed to repair it by doing this


Thanks man, did it and worked like a charm.

>> No.2027735

>>2027717
>accidentally spilled tin to places where I shouldnt've.
Oh boy. Don't tell me you didn't attempted to use desoldering wick.
I would never define this state as broken as i'm able to remove it.

>> No.2027743
File: 1.89 MB, 4320x3240, CD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2027743

Any one know much about Sega CD M1 repair?

I have a non working one, first tried the fuse (which was blown) and it still didn't function. Then found out it had some issues on the powerboard that I couldn't find so a friend gave me a free one, now that is fine. Now it the access and power light occasionally powers, but nothing else.
Any idea what it can be?

This is an old photo, before the battery change (fucking person who used the wrong save battery and hurt this mighty beast so bad...) and recapping.

>> No.2027751

>>2027735
I've already lifted pins from the original CIC chip AMD both the SPUs. Even if I sucked out all the tin, it would still be nonfunctional.

So, my question still stands - can a rbpi fit inside a SNES?

>> No.2027895
File: 356 KB, 1280x960, photo-5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2027895

>>2027751
obviously.

you seen how small these things are?

>> No.2027904

>>2027895
Sure. Does it run Higan laglessly? Can rbpi output scart?

>> No.2027914

>>2027904
Yes, I think so. And no, and even if it had VGA (with VGA to SCART) you would break any non PC CRT.

>> No.2027946

>>2027914

> you would break any non PC CRT.

how?

>> No.2027951

>>2027946
Regular CRT TV's work at 15hz. While a PC's VGA and CRT PC monitors work at 24hz. You'll overload the system.

>> No.2027954

>>2027951
oh

nice to know i guess

>> No.2027969

>>2027954
Only a few older graphics cards can output 15hz with special software. Great to know when you are building a MAME cab with CRT...

>> No.2027970

>>2027751
>Even if I sucked out all the tin, it would still be nonfunctional.
If you broke off the pin and don't have a dremel, that would suck.
But it seemed that you didn't had a great magnifying glass and the skills because that would helped.
Having the right equipment and the skills are most essential things for repairing and modding.

>>2027904
>That small thing
>Does it run Higan laglessly?

>>2027951
>Regular CRT TV's work at 15hz
15,6-15,7khz horizontal.
>While a PC's VGA and CRT PC monitors work at 24hz
Wait, what?
Isn't it twice as much? Like 31khz and higher

You sound like a fool if you say everything wrong.

>You'll overload the system.
If the TV is crappy and doesn't have a overfrequency protection then yes.
But it's very true for original arcade monitors.

>> No.2027975

>>2027970
Yea, I don't know why I typed 24.

I come from mainly an arcade point of view, so thats why.
At any rate, it still wouldn't work on 31hz when you use a CRT made for 15hz.

>> No.2027984

>>2027743

>> No.2028751

>>1995236
There isn't much infromation on Virtual Boy on the wiki. Can anyone recommend me another method for fixing a virtual boy's eye? My right eye isn't working anymore and I already used the oven method on it once.

>> No.2029315

>My right eye isn't working anymore and I already used the oven method on it once.

This sentences shines best when taken out of context!

>> No.2029497
File: 2.26 MB, 3516x2388, P1040716.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029497

Pic related came in the mail on friday and I plan to mod most of my old consoles starting with the Mega Drive 1

What the general recommended guide for PAL Mega Drive 1?

Not really sure where I should place the switch, there a compilation of modded consoles somewhere? Thought about removing the whole RF Out, increase the size of the hole and put one of the round switches directily next to A/V Out.

What's the best way to work with such old plastic, can i carefully drill it?

>> No.2029504
File: 3.38 MB, 3220x2227, P1040675.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2029504

>>2029497

If someone is interested, the cable was recommended to me in another thread and can be bought from:

>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sega-Megadrive-1-High-Quality-RGB-Scart-Lead-Video-Cable-TV-Lead-STEREO-Sound-/260926939448

Took a picture of TMNT HH on my 21'' Trinitron, turned out a little bit unsharp but think i did a decent job

>> No.2029505

>>2029497
>>2029497
>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sega-Megadrive-1-High-Quality-RGB-Scart-Lead-Video-Cable-TV-Lead-STEREO-Sound-/260926939448

I have two of those. They are decent, but not what I'd call "high quality". from what I recall, they don't have shielding on the inside, so you can get some audio buzzing.

>> No.2029510

>>2027970
>Isn't it twice as much? Like 31khz and higher

24khz is for medium res arcade monitors, like Virtua Fighter. I don't know the exact line count from the top of my head.

31khz is for 480 lines VGA. Higher resolutions have higher kHz.

>> No.2029519

>>2029505

The price is fair and I don't really like to spend 50€ on an acutall high end cable and >>2029504 looks good enough for me

>From what I recall, they don't have shielding on the inside, so you can get some audio buzzing.

Was mentioned before, don't have any buzz with the cable on my setup, but I got my cables organized

>> No.2029553

wheres a good place to get non saving pokemon games for cheap? I want to practice my soldering and I figured replacing the batteries on pokemon games would be a great way to start learning

>> No.2029558

>>2027743

>> No.2029609

>>2027743
Did you ever measure its power output?

>> No.2029624

>>2027743
It sounds like a voltage regulator problem. Though looking at that hack job who knows what the previous owner fucked up. Are you sure your power board is good?

>> No.2029741

>>2029609
>>2029624
With the new board its the 5V it needs, the old one had 1.3V if I recall correctly. And I'm sure the new board is good as that worked flawlessly on a SegaCD of a friend.

>> No.2029747

>>2029741
Check the power switch. I'd assume it's a problem before the power gets to the board.

>> No.2029762

>>2029747
I doesn't have a power switch, but the power lead from the megadrive has the right amount of voltage according to the schematics.

>> No.2029819

>>2029762
If you replaced the caps and there are 5 volts the only thing I can think off would be the that cable that connects the power board.

>> No.2029864

>>2029819
Which is also replaced, but both seem to be fine according to my multimeter.
It's a very strange issue...

>> No.2029874

>>2029864
The pins/connectors on the Genesis and sega cd are clean right?

>> No.2029930

>>2029874
yep...

>> No.2029950

>>2029315
It's not a bad one to use, eh?

I did the oven trick on it again and got it mostly working again. The left one is acting up now though, so I may need to bake both of them next time.

Such is the life of a Virtual Boy fan.

>> No.2029978

>>2028751
>My right eye isn't working anymore
That's what happens when you use a Virtual Boy.

>> No.2030312

>>2029504
Would it work on a Sega Genesis model 1?

>> No.2030360

>>2030312
Yes, although you'll need something that supports a SCART input of course.

>> No.2030406
File: 24 KB, 800x358, 800px-Snes_jr..jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030406

Does anyone know of a good tutorial for modding the model 2 SNES to support s-video?

>> No.2030994
File: 56 KB, 640x512, 1383712687395.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2030994

>>2026494
>>2026487
Oh god, like the entire trace is puled up?

That's bad news bears. Repairing a small cut in a trace is a big enough pain, but from point A to B is going to be a bitch

>> No.2031003
File: 210 KB, 500x375, 1407184701375.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2031003

>>2027743
>That battery just soldered to the board hanging loose
>CR2032 non rechargeable battery

My autism can't handle this.

>> No.2031770

>>2030994
>That's bad news bears. Repairing a small cut in a trace is a big enough pain, but from point A to B is going to be a bitch


Not necessarily. Once he knows where it is supposed to go, it's pretty simple to patch in a wire.

>> No.2031870

Anyone know how to fix this problem:

On my NES you know the way the cartridge needs pushed down generally to play games. Well my games push down but they don't push down far enough to bend the pins.

So you push it down it locks in place but it pushes up slightly - if that makes sense, aka when you push it down, it doesn't stay in the position you let go at, it pushes up slightly.

In this position most games play but eventually the graphics will start to bug out. However if I put something between the cartridge holder and the top of the NES, like push a piece of cardboard in so its held down all teh way the games run perfectly.

Is there any way I can fix my NES so I don't have to put stuff in to bend the pins? I've tried tightening the springs but it doesn't do anything.

>> No.2031905

>>2031870
remove the pins and boil them. You may need to try bending them back into position as well. There;s plenty of guides in Google.

>> No.2031957

>>2031905
Yeah, that's actually what I just did. Rebent the pins using a paper clip. It works perfectly. Some fucking idiot who owned this before me soldered the board to the console so if I ever want to replace it gonna have to crack out the soldering iron.

>> No.2031986
File: 800 KB, 2048x1536, DSC_0074.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2031986

Hey guys. 19 yo here. found my brother's master genesis and he told me i could do w/e with it.
I got
>Master System
>Games (pic related)
>controller

any of you know any good replacements for the power supply cable and the connection to TV ? i already got a small CRT screen ready to try it out.

captcha: anymeme much

>> No.2032005

>>2031986
http://www.gametrog.com/GAMETROG/How_which_do_i_need_SEGA_AC_Power_Supply_Information_Specs_Model_mk-3025_mk-1602_mk-2103_mk-1479_mk-4122_aa-s95j.html

This will be of use.

>> No.2032045

>>2032005
Thank you sir. Your help is much appreciated

>> No.2032108

>>2031986
>With Password Save!

Almost as good as
>SEGA FOR THE 90s - THE NEXT GENERATION!

>> No.2032248

>>2027519
Yes 60/40 Rosin Core Solder is the source. As for tips, everyone's got their own technique. So ymmv

>> No.2032276

So I found my old GBC the other day and, to my dismay, the sound is messed up. I plugged in some headphones and it works great that way, but the sound coming from the speakers is extremely quiet and the bass is just a scary garbled noise. This has led me to believe that it's probably just the speaker, which, from a cursory Google search, seems to be a common problem. Are there any recommended guides to replacing it? What kind of speaker should I get? Is soldering required? How likely is it that I'll brick the system if I fuck up? Can I do the fix at a tolerable level of quality without breaking the bank too much? Thanks for the help, and I apologize for knowing pretty much nothing.

>> No.2032303

>>2032276
>Are there any recommended guides to replacing it?
This is so simple, there's no need for such a thing.
>What kind of speaker should I get?
A speaker you can fit in it's place with 8ohms, less could work and might be louder but i wouldn't recommend it as i don't know the limits of the speaker amp.
>Is soldering required?
Just 2 wires.
>How likely is it that I'll brick the system if I fuck up?
If you're stupid as fuck or horribly inexperienced and clumsy with fine things.

>> No.2032305

Is the cart throat the same between different SNES models of the same region?

i.e Would a throat from a mid/late model 1 fit a model 2/mini?

>> No.2032309
File: 330 KB, 1600x1200, CAM00038[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2032309

>>2031986
On this; the ports on the back of my Master System are pretty rusty(oxide). specially the "RF OUT"
im getting a 1L bottle of isopropyl alcohol tomorrow to adress this issue.
how much should i use at once? should i check the insides of the console?
bad thing is that my region has humidity over 100% for the entire year.

>> No.2032668

>>2029553

I've tried fatfingers but it never comes up with anything

are there any other good places to get non saving pokemon games for cheap? I want to use it to help me get into soldering and maybe make a little money to put towards getting tools and stuff

>> No.2032718

>>2032309
Looks pretty bad you should probably check it out to be safe.

>> No.2032734

>>2029553
Pokemon games are kinda expensive no matter what, the cheapest ones you'll find are probably on ebay and usually bootlegs. If you're lucky you might find some at garage sales or things like that but don't count on it.

Really if you want to practice soldering just take apart an old DVD player or something like that. You'll be able to get a lot of experience with removing and replacing various kinds of parts and no worries if you damage anything since there are millions of them out there.

>> No.2033314

>>2031770
If you want to just do a jumper cable, sure, but if you want to properly repair it, that requires a bit more known how

>> No.2033316

>>2032309
You're going to have to clean the shit out of that

>> No.2033448

>>2017730
>>2017737
>>2026650

Wiki admin here. Thanks for bringing this up. I just got back from vacation an hour ago, but I'll get around to it quickly.

>> No.2033569

>>2033448

Okay, I've picked out a new captcha system (QueryCaptcha), so everything should work now.

>> No.2033645

I'm cleaning my NES carts from when I was a kid and I noticed a few of them that were bought from a video store that was clearing inventory have what seems to be red glue or wax in the screw holes.

Anyone else ever run into this?

>> No.2033694

>>2033645
Probably to prevent people from swapping the PCBs during a rental.

>> No.2033765

>>2033645
That stuff usually comes out with some prying

>> No.2033776

>>2033765
>>2033694

I've managed to pick most of it out to unscrew it hopefully, that should make it easier to clean out.

It seems to just be wax so that's a relief I guess

>> No.2033790
File: 19 KB, 300x225, $_35.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033790

Does anybody have this piece of chinese shit arcade controller for the PlayStation?

Sorry, that's the biggest pic I could find.

>> No.2033797
File: 1.60 MB, 2592x1944, 27102014071.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033797

>>2033790
I'm asking because I need to know where this cable is supposed to be connected, it comes from a socket on the pcb labeled as "F1" together with the cables that are connected on the stick, but I don't see any place with a missing cable.

>> No.2033804

>>2033797
Can you take another picture with the wires sorted out or something? It's very difficult to see where all the wires go when they're like that

>> No.2033841

>>2033804
Actually just try shorting the wire to ground. It should show what button it's supposed to go to.

>> No.2033856
File: 826 KB, 649x487, lasdmlaskmd.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033856

>>2033804
My phone is crap, I hope this helps

>> No.2033863
File: 1.60 MB, 2592x1944, 27102014071.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033863

>>2033841
This is what happens, If I make the blue cable contact the orange cable, it will move to the right, the same happens with the gray cable but to the left. If I make it touch the red cable it will move down, the same if I make it touch any point of the metal surface, however nothing happens if I actually move the stick, no matter if the cable is touching another cable.

>> No.2033865

>>2033863
Also, buttons are working fine, is just the stick that isn't working.

>> No.2033868

>>2033863
The blue wire is the ground for the joystick. Just touch the wire to the metal part and try to move the joystick in any direction and it should work

>> No.2033872

>>2033868
Or if you can find a part that is the ground terminal for one of the switches in the joystick touch that. The switches should all be connected together at the grounded half

>> No.2033891

>>2033863
>If I make it touch the red cable it will move down, the same if I make it touch any point of the metal surface
Oh wait this is kind of odd. The red wire might be shorted to the metal plate somewhere. Check where the red wire is connected too.

>> No.2033898

>>2033891
Yeah, apparently a little thread of cable was touching the metal plate, now I can actually control up and down with the stick while the blue cable is touching the metal plate, but I can't control left or right yet.

>> No.2033908

>>2033898
Are you sure the switches in that joystick are good? You might have to take apart the joystick assembly to check the switches or whether they're connected properly. You might need a multimeter for that

>> No.2033916

>>2033908
That's a good possibility, I'm gonna check that tomorrow with a friend's multimeter, thanks for your help and patience anon!

At least I can play pong now.

>> No.2033929
File: 10 KB, 96x96, 1389237868405.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2033929

I don't read this thread often enough to know if this is taboo or not, but how easy is it to install a Saturn mod chip if I've never soldered or heavily modified electronics before? because fuck paying 200 bucks for panzer dragoon saga

>> No.2033954

>>2033929

Do some cheap instructables first if you want to practice first.

You can also buy kits that teach you proper soldiering but they usually come with shitty lead-free wire.

>> No.2034015

i bought a super famicom but it came with no power cord

i'm an eurofag – how do i plug this fucker in?

>> No.2034073

>>2032309
You'll want to have the board out of the case when you clean it, so you can get at it easier. You can also check the other internals while doing that.

>> No.2034075

>>2033314
If a large portion of the trace is gone, it's better to run a jumper.

There is no reason to cut copper foil and laminate a new trace onto the board.

>> No.2034603

I know this isn't the best place but I heard these might damage carts, so.

What's the better cheating device for the Game Boy, GameShark or CodeBreaker?

>> No.2034642

>>2034603
>What's the better cheating device for the Game Boy, GameShark or CodeBreaker?
I imported the Codebreaker from the USA, the memory viewer only allows direct R/W access to the Gameboy CPU memory. Including the expansion memory of the GBC.
The special save and load anywhere feature works quite good, but the music can get glitchly from that. This also applies to "freeze" function which allows to go to the codebreaker menu and return back to the game.
I would assume that it watches the bankswitching commands to the MBC for the save and load anywhere feature and i highly doubt that this would work great with a pirated multicart.
The stupid things are the rumble motor which is beyond pointless and the case is designed not to fit in a classic Gameboy or Super Gameboy but it's electrically compatible. I was able to fix these issues myself.
It also comes with a library of cheat codes which you can modify as this device features a EEPROM for this matter but the other stuff is stored on a SRAM which is powered by a AAA battery which is also used by the dumb rumble motor.

>I know this isn't the best place but I heard these might damage carts, so.
I can't imagine how it's supposed to do that, i saw nothing in the inside what could cause this.
BigN always tells that unlicensed stuff could cause some damage and sometimes it could be true but in this case i'm sure it won't.
The only thing that can damaged is your data stored in the game which can happen without the use of unlicensed devices.

>> No.2034660

>>2034642
How is it compared to a GameShark, though? I was considering getting a 3.1 precisely because of the stupid rumble motor on the CodeBreaker but judging by your post I'd say it's better.

It works with all games, right?

>> No.2034793
File: 796 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01162.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2034793

>>2034660
>How is it compared to a GameShark, though?
I don't know. But i remember that i did a lot of research of cheat devices that exist for the 8bit Gameboy and i found this one as the most advanced one.
It took a long time until some american had one for sale on ebay and offered international shipping.
>It works with all games, right?
I just tested all Gameboy games that i own.
I'm curious myself if some game acts differently from the beginning, i played each game for less than a minute with the cheat switch on.
>classic GB
Galaga & Galaxian
Kirby's Dream Land
Trip World
Super Mario Land 2
Tetris
Boxxle
Super Mario Land
Kid Dracula
Ninja Gaiden/Shadow Warriors
Earthworm Jim
Dr. Mario
Kirby's Dream Land 2
Wario Land
Wario Land 2
Probotector/Operation C
Probotector 2/Contra: The Alien Wars
Q*Bert
R-Type DX
Solarstriker
Zelda DX
Pokemon Yellow
Pokemon Silver
>GBC only
The newer Q*Bert game
Wario Land 3
Project S-11 (the highly advanced music doesn't fuck up when return from cheat menu)
Ottifanten - Kommando Störtebeker (a german only game, the music is distorted when started with cheat switch on)
Super Mario Bros. DX does not work, CPU freezes or crashes on the "Since 1985" screen when the switch is on and you can't return to the cheat menu.

Very impressive.
My Action Replay MK3 for SNES was worse, cheats didn't worked on games with coprocessors. That's why i bought the Gamegenie for SNES and modified it and the cheats worked on SA-1 games like Kirby's Funpak/Super Star.

If you want to use it with the classic Gameboy then you must cut a nub into the circuit board.
2 traces are in the way but it's not hard for a skilled technician to solder 2 thin copper wires to specific spots.

>> No.2034845

>>2034015
You need a step down converter.

http://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?93192-Question-about-Super-Famicom-and-AC-Power-Adapters

>> No.2035015
File: 65 KB, 488x504, Cleaningkirby[1].png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2035015

What is the best way to clean the external part of cartridges?
I know isopropyl alcohol is the best for the contacs, what about the external part?
I have loads of game boy games that have writing on them and such, and am afraid of fucking up the labels.

>> No.2035193

>>2035015
If it's on the plastic then mr clean magic eraser works alright, but it does sand away some of the plastic.
Rubbing alcohol or goo gone can also remove most of it. Just don't get any on the label with the rubbing alcohol.

>> No.2035242

>>2024548
Yeah but paying for anything by Beats like sucking Dre's sellout corporate dick. You'll get better sound that way, trust me.

>> No.2035254

Using Iso on the outside is fine, too. Just don't pour it on or anything. Dab a little on a cloth and go to town.

>> No.2035493

>>2035015
>>2035193
Get magic eraser extra powder

It's meant for plastic surfaces and I've had some luck with it

>> No.2035586

>>2034793
Thanks a lot for the help, specially the compatibility list. I was worried Pokémon G/S wouldn't work. I have a Pocket too so no worries there.

I just did some research myself, had to look through some pages on the Web Archive as Google returns little to nothing, and the CodeBreaker does seem better than the GameShark.

I just need to find myself one now.

>> No.2036704

>>2035193
>>2035493
>recommending removing plastic before recommending just trying to remove the ink

Use a dry erase marker on the writing. As you scrub with it, the solvent in the ink will start lifting the permanent marker. Obviously this only works on plastic, not the label.

>> No.2038794

>>2024548
He said bose or beats, not ATs.

>>2024723
> I also own a pair of ATH m 50 that cost about $100 more, and I don't really hear that much of a difference between them.
Your either deaf, or not using them as intended. I'm guessing you haven't accounted for burn in yet.

>> No.2038810

>>2000114
Ausfag, pretty sure nothing remotely similar to that exists like that hear, *sigh*

>> No.2040598

I recently found some blue corrosion inside my wiimote
how should i clean this?

>> No.2040872

Okay, so just got some isopropyl alcohol today to fix my Sega Master System, but when i opened it i noticed two things

>way more oxide and rust that what id ever imagine
>two of the screws wont go off so i cant take of the protective plate`

plz help

>> No.2040874

>>2040872
How exactly were you going to fix the console with rubbing alcohol?

>> No.2040908

>>2040874
isopropyl alcohol is recommended for corrosion.
rubbing alcohol is not

>> No.2040923

>>2040908
Samething and no it's not for corrosion.

>> No.2040990

>>2040923
rubbing alcohol is the generic term... and isopropyl alcohol is pretty damn good for corrosion. got a bottle 99.8% it wipes rust and oxide in no time.

>> No.2040995

>>2040990
I don't think you understand what rust is.

>> No.2041006

>my Playstation is kill
>my PS2 simply won't read PS1 discs anymore
>really REALLY want replay GT2 and other PS1 games
>emulating them on PC simply isn't the same

What's the best course of action? Should I attempt to adjusting the lasers on my PS2 (is this hard to do or easy to fuck up?) or simply try to find another modchipped Playstation?

>> No.2041013

>>2041006
Have you tried cleaning the bottom lens of the PS2?

What kind of dead is the PS1?

>> No.2041024

>>2041013
I haven't opened up my PS2 in years so I guess I can give cleaning the lenses a go.

As for PS1 at least the mechanism moving the laser back and forth got fucked when my cousing managed to drop the console on floor but there are probably more broken ridiculously small parts in that area containing the laser.

Both consoles are of the older bigger variety if that matters.

>> No.2041059

>>2041024
>I haven't opened up my PS2 in years so I guess I can give cleaning the lenses a go.

Cleaning the lower lens requires a pretty steady hand. You'll definitely want to watch a video of how to do it if you're not sure. If you mess up at all, you'll wind up having to buy a new laser.

>> No.2043298
File: 283 KB, 1280x960, IMG_20140805_152319.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2043298

One of those things (that I don't know the name) just came off, what should i use to substitute it?

>> No.2043324

My super pro fighter q just show a black screen.
Am i totally fucked ?

>> No.2043326

>>2043298
It was either a SMD capacitor or resistor.
If it's lost or you don't know what exactly it was (includes the rated value) then you fucked it up.
Do you have a another board or could you tell what this board is?

However, it's not impossible to solder a generic capacitor or resistor in it's place.

>> No.2043453

>>2043326
The one that came off was identical to the other 3, the brown ones.
It's a Japanese model 1 Mega Drive, IC BD M5, and i also have a Genesis VA3.

>> No.2043460

>>2043453
>The one that came off was identical to the other 3, the brown ones.
Judging by the trace layout, it may just be a jumper. Measure resistance across the others.

>> No.2043468

>>2043453
>>2043298
It was probably a ceramic capacitor. They usually aren't rated very high like 0.001-0.1uf. Without a capacitance meter it will be hard to replace it accurately but you might be able to substitute in a 0.1uf ceramic cap and see if that works

>> No.2043487

>>2043468
>They usually aren't rated very high like 0.001-0.1uf
True for technology this old, i measured SMD capacitors with this size on very recent circuit boards with somewhat 1-27µF and these weren't polarized ones.
>you might be able to substitute in a 0.1uf ceramic cap and see if that works
Better would be to look up the schematic or traces to checkout the purpose of this capacitor, i have the feeling that it's used for signals judging from the traces.

>> No.2043562

>>2043453
If it's identical to the other 3 then just test to see what they are and you're done. If it's just a jumper then you're done. If it's a cap then, well, you're also done.

>> No.2044190

Can I use any joystick for the Atari 2600 or only the official one?

>> No.2044202

>>2044190
You can use pretty much any joystick with a 2600.
From a Mega Drive pad to a TAC-2.

>> No.2044216
File: 491 KB, 3216x2136, o757712.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2044216

I have an NTSC-U N64, and three controllers. They're all gone to shit, and I'm ordering a bunch of Japanese games, so I have some problems I need to fix so I can be ready.

1.) My Gray controller's Joystick has gone full Mario Party and is useless, my Yellow controller's joystick is also gone full Mario Party, but it's all had soda spilled on it and all the buttons are stiff as fuck until you break them in, then they become sticky. My see-through purple controller is also sticky because of the soda, but the joystick is fine. What's the best way to clean them so they stop sticking, and are those Gamecube style joysticks worth swapping in over original N64 sticks?

2.) I have a gamebit so I can get the console open. What is the best way to remove the tabs in the cartridge slot so the games can fit in if I don't have a dremel cutter?

>> No.2044223

>>2044216
For 1. Open the controllers up and clean them with isopropyl alcohol. Clean the controller pads and buttons with soap and water if they're really that bad. Let dry and reassemble.
For the joy sticks the replacements are garbage. You want to open your joysticks carefully. Clean them and lube them up with Molykote 44 Medium if you're in America or Shin-Etsu G-40 if you're not. Those are used for joysticks in arcade cabinets and it's the best you can get. Other lubes can work too.

For 2. Wire cutters.

>> No.2044232

>>2044216
For the second thing: There aren't really "tabs" that you can yank out like the SNES it's an indent in the cartridge slot. You can remove them any way you see fit but a dremel would make it a lot easier.

>> No.2044237

>>2044223
>Clean the controller pads and buttons with soap and water if they're really that bad.
I spilled the soda when I was 7 years old and I'm in my 20's now. They're a lot worse than you probably think.

>> No.2044242

>>2044237
Soap, water, and isopropyl alcohol should be able to take care of it regardless of age.

>> No.2044336
File: 102 KB, 1444x445, 2014-09-30 13.48.40.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2044336

>>2044216
I have that gamecube style joystick, and its a lot better than what people say.

Its bit more sensitive, and with n64's laggy games it can make most first/third person shooters almost unplayable unless game has option to change analogs sensitivity or use c-buttons to aim, but for literally any other games I havent had ANY problems with it and I prefer using it over original one.

>> No.2044365

>>2044336
Star Fox 64, the two Zeldas, Super Mario 64, Yoshi Story, F-Zero X, the three Mario Parties, and Paper Mario are what I have ordered, and I already own the two Banjo games, Kirby 64, Donkey Kong 64, Diddy Kong Racing, and Mario Kart. Do any of these games have problems?

>> No.2044370

>>2027743
Whoever soldered that CR2032 should be glad it didn't explode, that happened to me when I was 7 year old kid who was too lazy to buy CR2032 socket.

All what I remember is hot lithium on my hand and burnt circle on carpet.

>> No.2044415

>>2027743
I see the red wire for one side but did they connect the other side of the battery using double sided tape?

>> No.2044467

>>2044365
Apparently there are two versions of those GC style joysticks, one has problems with both zeldas spin-attack, and on smash64 tilt-attacks(some say timing is different, some say its impossible todo), and later versions has that fixed, but it seems like I have older version but Im not sure since I dont have those games or way to check.
Source: http://s9.zetaboards.com/Nintendo_64_Forever/topic/7360571/1/

Sadly I sold most of my N64 games(I didnt have that many games in total anyway), but on mine I had no problems with super mario 64, rayman 2(including that one part where you are flying around), on duke nukem zero hour I had trouble aiming at first, but after playing for while I got used to it, but I found jet gemeni force too sensitive, not to mention awful framerates on PAL version. But for those games Im sure it'll will work just fine, well outside of zeldas anyway.

>> No.2044690

Does anyone have information on the Atari 2600 power supply?
The one I bought didn't have it and I don't know what to use.

>> No.2044704

>>2044690
http://www.gametechwiki.com/w/index.php/Atari_2600#Power_Supply

The pics there are clear enough to read the specifications. I'm not sure though if different models of the 2600 use different power supplies. Which type of 2600 do you have?

>> No.2044749

>>2044704
I already saw those, I'm more interested in the type of connector that isn't shown in the pic.

>> No.2044796

>>2044749
It's just a standard barrel connector, the same size (I think) as on the NES and Genesis. Just make sure the polarity is correct.

>> No.2044907

>>2044796
I've done some research and it's actually a 1/8" connector, not very common here.
thanks for the help.

>> No.2045467

I want to get replacement conductive pads for my Game Boy Pocket but I'm sure most of the ones on eBay are Chink knockoff.

Is there any way to tell if I'm getting a legit one? Is there even such a thing?

>> No.2047716

>>2045467
You can be pretty sure you won't get originals, only superior nonshitted up replicas.

>> No.2047809

>>1995236
I know it's not retro, but I use it heavily for PS games. My PS2 was fine when I last played it a few weeks ago, and the other day I boot it up and the disk drive makes a horrifying screech when it tries to do any movement, and no disks can be read. The disks don't come out damaged, so the whirring isn't the disks being scratched to hell. That said, it seems like my drive is borked. Can it be repaired or do I buy another PS2 and rip its drive out? Anything I need to know for either option? I'd replace it outright but my PS2 is already hardmodded.

Also, I seem to have issues burning games. I use Verbatim CDRs on a laptop burner running at 4x speed (its lowest supported speed) and I often get missing audio tracks or stuttering and popping sounds. This has happened for LSD, MegaMan Legends,and Suikoden II. I usually download the ISOs from emuparadise. Is there something significant that I'm missing?

>> No.2047916

>>2047809
Burning speed makes little difference. You are either burning bad dumps, or the laser in your machine is crap.

also iirc PS2 has a design "feature" wherein if the security is bypassed by a modchip, the machine overvolts the laser on purpose to slowly kill it. For a PS2, you should get a HD loader anyway.

>> No.2048065

>>2043298
It's a Jumper. Use a 16 or 18 Gauge Wire.

>> No.2048131
File: 794 KB, 1920x1080, DSC01616.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2048131

I need a bit of help with a model 2 Sega CD. Big-time fuse problem.
Got one on Ebay a few years back as 'broken', so I didn't expect much other than a blown fuse, but it seems the previous owner removed the fuse and bridged the gap with a huge glob of solder.
I did my best to remove the solder and had a friend replace the fuse. I never checked his replacement, and tried it out. Nothing.
I ended up loosing the power cord in a move since, so now it's even more useless. I've just kept it on display attached to my Genesis.
Is there anything I can do in the mean time while searching for an adapter? Any suggestions for a decent adapter?

>> No.2048137

>>2048131
Get an adapter of the right voltage and at least the specified amperage. (It should be written on the case.)

Make VERY sure that it's the right polarity. SCD fuses pop all the time because they have a "suicide diode" that shorts across them if you plug in the wrong polarity adapter.

>> No.2048204
File: 1.51 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_1654.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2048204

So currently working on this. Going to Vinyl Dye it and switch the LED power light.

This was a fun first mod.

Anyone else have Game boy mods?

>> No.2048207

>>2048137
Would that still apply after the fuse was replaced with what I assume is a generic Radio Shack fuse?

>> No.2048228

>>2047916
Thanks for the intel. I've since switched to a sony dvd burner which should do better at burning.

I've read a good deal about ps2 modding but I've never seen anything about overvolting the laser. Are you sure that this is a thing that happens with PS2s? I really don't want to deal with PS2 HDD loading again.

>> No.2048231

>>2048204
How'd you do it?

Why'd you do it that color? Seems like it would make your eyes hurt.

>> No.2048293

So today I hooked up my N64, and I noticed that it wasn't sending a signal to my tv. The cord works with my SNES, so it must be internal.

>> No.2048379

>>2048293
What do you mean no signal? Was the screen completely blank throughout, or was there a slight flicker for a split second when you turned it on? It could be something as simple as cleaning the games and cartridge slot

>> No.2048607

>>2048379
The display says that there is no signal. I could try cleaning all the ports, but Im afraid that there is a loose connection, and I don't have a soldering gun.

>> No.2049413

>>2048607
Pull the jumper or expansion pack out and blow out the slot. N64s don't boot if they don't detect something in the slot

>> No.2049469
File: 188 KB, 206x178, Eyes.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049469

>>2048204
Shit, didn't they have any other color? And for god sakes add a resistor or something to turn down the brightness

>> No.2049508

any recommendations for screws that are completely stuck ? wanted to repair my SMS but this two screws just wont go off.

>> No.2049514

>>2049508
Unfortunately SMS shells are build like a cheap toy.

If you twist too hard you're going to snap off the shaft the screw goes into.

This is most likely what happened, if the screw is just spinning in place

>> No.2049523

>>2049508
If the screws aren't spinning in place, try tightening the screws just a little bit until they move then try to remove them. Don't torque on it too hard, though.

>> No.2049541

>>2049523
i tried this but i cant get them to spin at all. also half of the console is filled with oxide (i think thats the right word, sorry about my english)

>> No.2049546

>>2049541
oxide? Like rust?

Some WD40 might be the only way you can get it open

>> No.2049548

>>2049546
yeah rust.. i tried something similar to WD40 but still nothing. im afraid im gonna have to break the protection plate to get to do anything at all on the SMS...

>> No.2049550

>>2049548
protection plate?

We're talking about the model 1 SMS, right?

>> No.2049576
File: 15 KB, 339x204, SegaMasterSystem.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049576

>>2049550
yeah i think so.
theres so much rust i dont think anything can be done at this point. . at least the cartridges are allright

>> No.2049903

>>2049469
There are lots of colors when it comes to LEDs, different websites manufacture different tints. GBmods.co.uk is the only one that makes teal ones AFAIK for example.

Some people really dislike the hotspots in LED technology though, and EL panels only come in teal.

>> No.2049993

>>2049576
If it's as bad as you say, you don't really want to leave it alone.

You can use a power drill to remove the heads of the stuck screws. You'll want to go slowly so you don't end up damaging the case or drilling in too far.
Unfortunately with how stuck you say they are, you might not be able to get the rest of the screw out afterward, but lets hope the drilling loosens them up and you can twist them out with a pair of pliers afterward.

>> No.2050158

>>2048231
>>2049469
Its the camera I use that makes it really horrible. It looks nice once I dim it down a bit.

>> No.2050182

>>2049993
Thanks for the help. Will try to get my hands on a power drill or borrow one from a friend.

>> No.2050653

>>2049903
Ah, alright

I though about modding a game boy and doing the ice white color on it

>> No.2051420

>>2049413
Just tried that, no improvement. I'll opain some alcohol and try cleaning it with that.

>> No.2051424

>>2051420
Obtain, fuck

>> No.2051458

>>2051420
Update: I blew into the expansion pack slot again and it worked, but the issue returned when I powered it off and back on again, so I'm definitely going to do a through cleaning of the slots.

>> No.2052769

Any tips for n64 repair? Got 2 of them. One works fine other has no picture. Using the same cables for both. Would like to rgb mod them both? What's the best route of doing that? Google gives me a bunch of different ways that all claim to be the best method

>> No.2052829

>>2051458
You might need a new jumper pack.

>> No.2053056

A guy wants to sell me his GBPocket for cheap because the LCD is toast, there's a huge 'smudge' on it. I /think/ the LCD itself is fine, it's just the film on the back that's fucked.

I want to install a backlight on it, though. I'd have to replace the polarizing film anyway.

Anyone have any experience with this? Would it work?

>> No.2053069

I have a copy of Zelda 2 for NES that I hope is repairable, but before I open it up I wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.

The cartridge itself is pretty old, and there is a part inside of it that clearly broke off and you can hear it rattle around.

Despite this, the game still worked normally, even with the broken piece, for some time.

Now when I play it, it appears to be fine until I get to the first palace. When I do and go to where I should get the first key the key isn't there. No matter how many times I reset or clean it, the key is not there.

Has anyone encountered this problem with any other game before? Items/parts of the game that are just straight missing?

I have a soldering kit and some electrical tape should I have to open it up

>> No.2053071

>>2053069
The rattling is probably just a bit of plastic that broke off.

Open it up, look for any damage, and get it cleaned up. If there is damage, we can help you get it fixed if you get lost.

>The cartridge itself is pretty old
Heh.

>> No.2055304

>>1999817

>videogames new york
>not overpriced shit

>> No.2055310

My snes usa/can model has some redish/pinky color on screen. What this?

>> No.2055316

>>2053069
Thats weird,maybe the contacts need cleaning and its just not loading up properly.

>> No.2055324

>>2051458
The jumper/expansion pak on the n64 is a pain in the ass,also make sure you are using an official expansion pak the 3rd party ones cause problems.

>> No.2056575

So yeah... have a quick question...

Does anyone know what causes GB speakers to buzz? My GameBoy and GameBoy Color both have an irritating buzz from the speaker. The normal game audio is present, but there there is an audible buzz even when volume iss all of the way down. It is audible through the headphones, too.

Can this be fixed by just replacing the speakers? Is it something to do with caps needing to be replaced?

>> No.2056590

>>2056575
(Or do they just sound that way from new. I never paid much attention as a kid I guess, so maybe I just never noticed how noisy they were...)

>> No.2056828

>>2056575
>Does anyone know what causes GB speakers to buzz?
I'm not in the mood to type it again:
http://archive.moe/vr/thread/1938410/#1949839
I did a prosound mod on my GB classic and i don't hear any kind of interference when i use headphones and a good DC adapter.

>Can this be fixed by just replacing the speakers? Is it something to do with caps needing to be replaced?
Replacing the audio amp with a modern one would be more effective, pay attention to the "ripple rejection" as mentioned in the datasheet.

>> No.2056896

guys

I just got a snes for 10 bucks

and I got a Super Mario World cartdrige, that I really wanna play.

The thing is, when I turn it on, no image. No sound. The color on the tv changes, and using a multimeter, I can see there's current flowing throught it

Can anyone gimme some light here?

Should I change the capacitors?

>> No.2056934

>>2056896
clean the cartridge slot

>> No.2056936

>>2056896
Have you tried cleaning the cartridge/pins? Just a little isopropyl on a cotton swab. I've gotten several SNES carts that were filthy, but after a cleaning worked like a champ.

>> No.2056941
File: 10 KB, 400x400, lapisborracha.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2056941

>>2056934
>>2056936

I cleaned it with pic related, and tried using a Donkey Kong Country cartdrige that I have here, they are my only two games, and I took fond care of both of them.

However, none of them works, or show different results. The Snes just change the stactic on my tv a bit.

>> No.2056947

>>2056941
Still sounds like a bad connection,Have a good look at the pins on the actual cartridge slot of the snes to check for corrosion or rust,it could even be that the pins have gotten slack and aren't making a good enough contact

>> No.2056959

>>2056947

thank you anon. I'll take a look at it. Posting pics of it could help you guys see if that's that?

>> No.2056973

>>2056959
If you can take a good close up shot of the cartridge slot i might be able to see something but its doubtful

>> No.2057007

>Front-loading NES was working perfectly
>All of a sudden today it decides it wants to be a fucking cunt and not play any audio
>Wiggle the RCA cable a bit
>Get audio but only when I hold the cable in place
>Try another cable
>Same problem
>Try to clean out the connector on the NES
>Now there's no audio at all no matter what I do

God fucking dammit. I didn't need this bullshit right now.

The picture works just fine, but there's no sound.

>> No.2057016

>>2057007
Sounds (hehe) like a bad solder joint on the RCA connector.

>> No.2057042

>>2057016
The system has worked perfectly well ever since my brother and I were kids. I don't know why the sound would suddenly stop working.

I've never taken an NES apart and I don't have a soldering iron.

>> No.2057085

>>1995236
Help! My Gamecube controller (is it considered retro?) has a weird blue thing that kinda looks like the acid batteries leak every once in a while.

How do I clean it?!

>> No.2057112

>>2057085
Dreamcast is the only 6th gen system that's retro, and even some people on /vr/ think that it's too modern.

>> No.2057164

>>2057042
It's old. As you plug in and unplug the cables, the solder joint on the plug gets stressed and eventually cracks. It's not an indication of mishandling, it's just something that happens

>> No.2057208

>>2057164
I'm going to guess that fixing it should be relatively easy to if it is a cracked solder joint. I doubt Nintendo would design the NES with that part of the system being difficult to access. I don't want to use RF, and the RF adapter that came with the system doesn't work anymore anyway.

>> No.2057223

>>2057208
It's not that hard to get to, and all it needs is touching a soldering iron to it long enough to melt the solder again. Adding a touch more solder as a refresher helps, too.

>> No.2057667

So, can I fit the guts from an older Game Boy Pocket model, the one without the power LED, into the shell of a newer one?

I'm assuming they're pretty much the same except for the indicator.

>> No.2057749

>>2053071
>>2055316
Late Update:

I wasn't able to get it open, I don't have the proper tool. However I did give it one more thorough cleaning on the contact and the problem was fixed

Still does a lot of blue/grey/purple screens and flashing, but so all my other games.

I thought I had cleaned it enough before, but I guess not.

>> No.2057970

>>2057749
Have you cleaned the console's contacts?

>> No.2058040

>>2057085
Are you storing your controller in a dry place? I could be just corrosion. Open your controller and clean it with isopropyl alcohol

>> No.2058045

>>2057667
I would guess that you could.

>> No.2058046

My atari 2600 has been acting strangely lately, it will power up like normal and after some time it will shutdown and I can't start it again. It also does this when I reach the back to change a controller. The AC is outputting 9v steady when I tested it. Any thoughts?

>> No.2060009

>>2058046
How long do you have to wait before you can try turning it on again?

>> No.2060095

>>2060009
it depends, some times I just unplug/plug it and it works and sometimes it don't. I don't know if it is related but when I unplug it the AC the snow on my TV change, there is nearly no white anymore on the screen.

>> No.2061986

bump

>> No.2062368 [DELETED] 

I received a NES that had the AC connector violently ripped off, so I changed the entire rf modulator from another NES that had a non working PPU, so anyways now it works.

But for some reason the red LED is turning on, I already tried with others and no dice, I even tried this led on another NES and it did turned on, what can cause a NES to not turn his LED on?

Everything else is working fine.

>> No.2062370 [DELETED] 

>>2062368
>But for some reason the red LED is turning on

I meant: ISN'T

>> No.2062381

I received a NES that had the AC connector violently ripped off, so I changed the entire rf modulator from another NES that had a non working PPU and it works now.

But for some reason the red LED from the power button isn't turning on, I already tried with others and no dice, I even tried this led on another NES and it did turned on, what can cause a NES to not turn his LED on?

Everything else is working fine.

>> No.2062385

>>2062381
Is the LED resistor fine?

>> No.2062407

>>2062385
Which one is the LED one? I'm working right now but I can take a picture of the 5 pins I soldered from the RF modulator during the lunchtime, I followed the steps at the bottom of this page: http://console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES-001

But now that you mention it, I think one of the pins I soldered made contact to another resistor.

I just can't find a picture of the bottom side of the rf modulator to mark the pin I think I soldered wrong and made contact with a resistor.

>> No.2062428 [DELETED] 

>>2062407
I can't tell which one is the LED resistor, but try to remove the excess solder and try again.

>> No.2062436

>>2062407
I can't tell which one is the LED resistor, but try to remove the excess solder and try again. If you are adventurous try to solder directly a resistor (can't remember the correct value for a NES) directly to the LED, if it light then the resistor is simply busted

>> No.2062646
File: 1.35 MB, 2592x1936, IMG_0804.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062646

>>2062436
Here it is, now I'm gonna try to remove the excess solder and try again.

>> No.2062670

>>2062646
Nope, still dead, looks like I blown that resistor when I turned the NES on after changing the rf modulator.

>> No.2062675

>>2057749
see
>>2057970

if a general cleaning doesn't help google for tutorials on how to bend the pins back

>> No.2062681

>>2062670
Any luck if you change the old resistor by a new one?

>> No.2062727
File: 1.36 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_0805 - Copy.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062727

>>2062681
I don't know the correct value of the resistor.

I also have this NES with dislodged traces, I was wondering if I can bridge these points.

>> No.2062728
File: 1.39 MB, 1936x2592, IMG_0805.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062728

>>2062727
Here's the original

>> No.2062746

I have an old PS1 (Model SCPH-7501) that has strange issues.
There's a random chance it will work each time you turn it off and on.
Of the few times I've had it boot into a game, I know the CD-ROM drive works.
Sometimes the system will freeze 5 minutes into a game, sometimes it halts at the white Sony screen, sometimes I just get a black screen on each reset, and sometimes the system will play just fine for hours on end and then return to its glitchy problems whenever I turn it off.
I've traded parts with it and another PS1 to see if that will fix it (power supply, controller ports, etc) I couldn't use the motherboard from the other PS1 because it's also having issues (won't detect controllers if there is a memory card inserted, but this one doesn't have freezing issues)

I don't want to have to buy a new PS1, so I came here hoping someone at least has an explanation of what may be going on, and even better if someone has a functional solution.

>> No.2062750
File: 199 KB, 640x360, 2013-08-05 17-15-42.900.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062750

factory defect to look out for:

i received a turbotap that failed to function from a ebay listing, after getting a portion knocked off of the lot i decided to open it up and look around, took forever to realize that when it was factory assembled the cable was sheered by the plastic enclosure causing it to be tempermental after some use.

to combat this i swapped the cable with a poor condition controller and everything snaps in without any solder required thankfully and presto! works great and adds a good 3 feet to the length of the controllers i use.

>> No.2062818

Alright, can someone help? I recently poured a hell of a lot of money into an RGB N64 set up, and all the parts came in today, however, I get absolutely no video video signal. I believe I've narrowed the problem down to something with the converter box

http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

The Scart cable and 64 work fine, and I can get audio fine on the Component setting with my audio extracter (And video too, but it's composite so it's shit), but I can't get any video from it. The TV gets a signal, but th screen is just black with the audio playing in the background. What do I need to do to fix this, or will I have to send it back? Is my converter simply broken? And for the record, my TV is a CRT one, so it shouldn't be the problem either.

>> No.2062826

>>2062818
It shouldn't be causing the problem, but have you tried it without the audio breakout box?

>> No.2062827

>>2062727
>I don't know the correct value of the resistor.
What resistor? R2?

From that photo R2 is 510ohm +/- 5% or 26ohm

>> No.2062834

>>2062827
The resistor for the power LED, I'm not even sure if is this one >>2062646

This pic >>2062727 was for another problem on another NES.

>> No.2062837

>>2062826
Yeah, and it's pretty much what you expect. Still no video, just without audio.

>> No.2062842

>>2058046
Sounds like an overheating power regulator. Check the screw that fixes the 7805 regulator to the heatsink. Tighten it if it's loose.

>> No.2062846

>>2062727
>>2062834
Oh okay, yeah it looks like you should be able to bridge those points no problem.

As for this >>2062646 I can't really tell what is going on here. Are you sure the power LED connects to the board around there?

>> No.2062863

>>2062846
Nope, but that's the only wierd thing I found on the NES, everything else looks fine, the LED do turns on if I connect it to another NES

>> No.2062874

>>2062863
Check the legs of the LED with a multimeter and make sure at least one of them is getting power. If the power isn't getting to the LEDs you'll have to follow both of the traces further down

>> No.2063034

>>2062746
Come on, anyone know the solution to this?
Or at least have an explanation?

>> No.2063601

Picked up a launch genesis from a thrift shop today. Opened it up to dust it out, but some ass-bang glued the top screw of the shield on (so I'm guessing someone's been inside this thing before, could be broken for all I know, don't have any games to test it yet). Not sure what kind of glue it is. Has a yellowish tint, but still relatively transparent.

Any advice on getting it off without damaging anything? I tried scraping it off with my nail and a screwdriver and only got a few scratches on the metal for y trouble.

>> No.2063659

>>2063601
Nope, they're like that from the factory.

A nice hard twist should do it. It screws into a metal heat sync below

>> No.2063726

>>2063659
Maybe I'm just not twisting hard enough, I kinda stopped trying out of fear of stripping the screw.

Will I need to glue it back once I've cleaned it out, or is it fine and dandy to just screw it in and call it a day?

>> No.2063745

>>2063726
>Will I need to glue it back once I've cleaned it out
No.

>Maybe I'm just not twisting hard enough
Try twisting it in the other direction slightly to get the threads moving.

>> No.2063750

>>2063726
Now you don't need to re-glue the screw

>> No.2065139

>>2062750
It's worth considering that you and the factory aren't the only ones who ever took a screwdriver to it.

>> No.2067262

Turned on genesis, static on TV gets lighter but no visual or sound. Where should I start looking?

>> No.2067389

>>2067262
Could use some more information

>> No.2067410

>>2067389
And I'd love to give it, but unfortunately I just purchased it myself. I opened it up and cleaned what appeared to be a decade of fur shedding from no less than three cats, so it's possible that I fucked something up.

The static in question definitely changes in shape, direction of movement, and color with seemingly no rhyme or reason. I'm using RF because that's what goodwill had.

>> No.2067419

>>2067410
Could it be that it's set to the wrong channel; On channel 3 when it needs to be 4 or vice versa?

>> No.2067426

>>2067419
Nah, switch is set to channel 4.

Interesting development: inserting just the tip results in an unstable and staticy picture and music. so I guess it's a contact issue with either the cable insert or the port itself. What's the best way to proceed?

>> No.2067427

>>2067410
I meant model number, power adapter type, even board version would help

>> No.2067434

>>2067426
Take some pictures of the RF switch and box

>> No.2067460
File: 2.32 MB, 1470x888, rf box.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2067460

>>2067427
My bad. It's evidently a launch model, FCC ID FJ846EUSASEGA, big-ass brick power cable model 1602, RF box model 1603A.

>>2067434
Ploink. My inner /v/irgin couldn't resist, sorry.

>> No.2067472

>>2067460
The if the RF box has a lot of corrosion on it in the system, it might be prudent to go over it with some super fine steel wool.

Also flipping the channel switch back and fourth while the system is on usually will help sync it with the TV

>> No.2067487

>>2067472
How do you suggest I get into that tiny hole to do it?

>> No.2067505

>>2067487
You'd have to open up the entire console. You should do it anyways to give the plastic shell a bath.

I though you opened it anyways. Might as well do a full tear down and check for any other dirt or problems

>> No.2067509

>>2067505
I opened it for dust, but to be honest I took of the shielding, blew with some compressed air, and called it a day.

Yeah, not afraid to open up the console. BRB

>> No.2067512

>>2067509
Pictures of the RF box would help determine if it needs a good scrubbing

>> No.2067514

>>2067512
Are you referring to the ones I took pictures of before? I didn't take pictures, but I did open it up and there was some kind of white residue/build-up near the plastic screw casings.

>> No.2067521
File: 1.71 MB, 2412x1837, IC_BD_M5_USA_VA2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2067521

>>2067514
I am referring to the box in the system that the RF switch plugs into.

I circled the thing you need to look for corrosion with the smaller red circle.

Also, blowing some compressed air into the box via the RF hole in the back might help while flicking the channel switch back and fourth

>> No.2067527

>>2067514
>>2067521
This residue. I'd like to see a picture of it, if possible

>> No.2067564
File: 603 KB, 1720x1363, internal rf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2067564

>>2067527
I could not for the life of me get this metal box off (though I confess a lack of trying, as I'm afraid to damage components), but there is clear cut evidence of corrosion present.

>> No.2067571

>>2067564
Ah, that white residue is excess thermal grease for the 7805C voltage regulators, nothing to worry about.

As for getting that metal heat sync off, that's not too important, you're more interested in the port its self and polishing that up.

If you use super fine #0000 wool and polish it to a shine, that will hopefully take one part of this mystery out.

After polishing up that port, you should blow it out with some canned air.

If you have a Nintendo RF switch, those work and are generally better belt then the Sega ones.

The channel flick, have you tried that? Some times the RF box inside get stuck in between the two channels and flicking the switch back and fourth looses it up. If you're still having problems, then you might need to get some contact cleaner and spray a small amount into the channel switch while flicking it back and fourth to loose any dirt that is causing it to stick

>> No.2067573

>>2067571
Super fine steel wool #0000 grade

Built*

Shit I am tired and can't spell tonight

>> No.2067582

>>2067571
So simply "sanding" (for lack of a better word) the outside will help? Hey, worth a shot, I'll run out and get some steel wool tomorrow. Any specific angle I should attack from with the steal wool and air?

I don't have a nintendo RF switch, unfortunately. As for the channel switching, I tried this and it accomplished nothing. The only thing that produces results is holding the rf input in place with the tip barely inside and wiggling around to different angles. Which isn't to say that this produces the proper results, music is intermittent at best and the video output is skewed with static overlayed, but it lets me see something. That's more than I can see while inserted all the way.

>> No.2067587

>>2067582
Just from the back. Just do it lightly until the shine is back.

It sounds like the RF switch is shorted, at least the RCA end of it. This is a very common problem with RF switches. You can check with a multimeter for continuity though the cable and see if it's sporadic.

If you try twisting it and bending it past 90 degrees, it might give you a result.

>> No.2067589

>>2067587
Anon, I'm a little confused as to where you want me to polish it. The circular part? The rectangular box? All over or just on top? Sorry, I don't know shit about electronics.

>> No.2067590

>>2067589
The circular drum. Its the ground connection for the whole video system. It's possible the corrosion is causing some issues.

I just rub around them until the shine is back. Keep in mind, you're just doing this to take the surface layer of corrosion off.

>> No.2067594

>>2067590
That much I can certainly do once I pick up the supplies. Would a alcohol soaked qtip do anything in the meantime?

>> No.2067604

>>2067594
No, its not abrasive enough to polish the metal unless you've got days to spare.

You could skip the RF switch entirely with an adapter, so long as you're not using the TV's cable connection for anything else.

http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-rca-male-to-f-connector-female-adapter-2-pack/2780476.html

All you'd need after this is some coaxial cable and hook the system right to the TV

>> No.2067606

>>2067604
If the corrosion needs to go either way, that'll be my last resort. Certainly better than rolling the dice on ebay.

>> No.2067614

>>2067606
Oh it defiantly does I think. There's no reason to not try and clean it up.

In the end, I think you have a faulty RF switch and the direct root I linked here >>2067604
would be your best option if you're hell bent on hooking it up though RF.

If you want better video quality, RCA would be the way to go in the end after confirming the system works.

>> No.2067624

>>2067614
RCA is definitely superior (or so I've read), though as a college student in a small apartment it'll be a while until that point. I don't even have room for this thing as it is, but I couldn't pass up a region free genesis.

Thanks for all the assistance you've given me. I wish I had a way to repay you for your time and knowledge besides showing pictures when it's finally fixed.

>> No.2067628

>>2067624
Sure, that would be cool

If you're looking to get into retro games, you're going to have to at least learn to how to solder so you can replace common components

On a side note, I hope you didn't lift the 7805C voltage regulators away from the heat sync. That thermal grease is just like the past you put on a CPU and once you take it off, you have to reapply it.

>> No.2067635

>>2067628
paste*

>> No.2067637

>>2067628
>I hope you didn't lift the 7805C voltage regulators away from the heat sync.

I have no clue where any of those are. The only thing I outright removed is the shielding though; I attempted to get rid of that giant metal piece that shielded the spot near the RF box, but was unable to do so.

I'd love to learn how to solder, but there's no small electronic shops nearby to obtain small starter kits or any sort of mentoring. Gotta love Appalachia. Still, it's a skill I would love to acquire.

>> No.2067652
File: 611 KB, 1720x1363, 1416023144237.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2067652

>>2067637
I've circled them here

Basically, they get very, very hot, well over 130 degrees (F) under load. The thermal paste in between them and the heat sync helps transfer that heat to the large metal shield.

Lifting the meal pieces away from them will break that bond and you'll have to clean them with some alcohol and q-tips and apply some new thermal paste to the back of them.

So it should go (Voltage regulator) (Thermal paste) (Metal Heat Sync)

I recommend this. Newly applied thermal paste takes a while to reach its peak efficiency

http://www.radioshack.com/arctic-silver-silver-5-thermal-compound/2801099.html

>> No.2067661

>>2067637
>but there's no small electronic shops nearby to obtain small starter kits or any sort of mentoring. Gotta love Appalachia.
Not going to get any tutorials, but you should be able to get a (shitty) iron and misc items with it from Radio Shack for under $15.

>> No.2067673

>>2067652
Eh, I couldn't get it off, but it did wiggle somewhat. I'll probably apply new paste just in case; 25 years probably haven't done it any favors even if I didn't fuck it up.

>>2067661
Worth a look. No sense buying a ferrari if you're just going to drive the speed limit, anyway.

>> No.2067683

>>2067673
Alright, nice. It's always good to update systems with some new paste. You can also replace the regulators but that requires soldering

If you're going to get an iron, I'd go for a Weller or Hakko . Both are top tier, but Weller offers entry irons for people that are new to it.

>> No.2067687

>>2067683
I'll hold off on anything that requires soldering until I... well, learn to solder.

Incidentally, how DO you separate those components? I tried lifting straight up and ran into enough resistance that I gave up thinking it's probably a shitty idea to continue.

>> No.2067690

>>2067687
The voltage regulators? They're soldered to the board.

You'd have to straight de-soider them or cut them off

>> No.2067696

>>2067690
Nah, not those. Figured they'd have to be heated till the solder could be removed. I mean the 7805C... whatever the hell they were. Unless those are attached to something that is soldered?

Like I said: I don't know shit about electronics.

>> No.2067706

>>2067696
They're straight attached to the circuit board.

the three legs you see on each are soldered on the other side of the board

>> No.2067715

>>2067706
Ah, good thing I didn't pull up on them then. Also good that the heatsink wouldn't move when pulled straight up. Maybe I don't need new thermal paste after all, though I'll do that once I become more confident in my ability to mess with older electronics. Fuck me, the PC I built a year and a half ago was nerve-wracking, but at least that was relatively straight forward.

>> No.2067717

>>2067715
there's screws holding down the heat sync on the underside of the board

>> No.2067728

>>2067717
pfff, that might explain it

>> No.2067738

>>2067728
Yeah, and they're glued in place. There's a reason they don't want you to be able to remove it

>> No.2068117

>>2062842
It was loose by 1/8 of a turn, the atari is not switching off anymore but I still have to plug the AC in a very specific manner to get it working. Any magic trick?

>> No.2069203
File: 1.71 MB, 3558x2601, IC_BD_M5_VA1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2069203

I'm doing the genesis s-video mod, and I need a ground point to solder 2 wires, problem is this particular board does not have the metal shield that usually surrounds it. Is there any other point that i can use instead?

>> No.2069404
File: 1.73 MB, 2200x2300, Model2_va1_motherboard.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2069404

Well, I manged to restore rumble function to my PS2 fat. I though the surface mounted fuses Digi-key sent me where too small to bridge the gap, but they weren't.

Sadly, the 2200pf capacitors that I ordered to replace a missing one in a Sega Genesis model 2 didn't seem to solve the booting problem I have. Every 1 our of 4 times I turn it on I get the "This title was licensed by Sega" screen but then it doesn't continue after that.

Anyone have any idea what's going on? I've circled the surface mounted cap that I replaced and I'm still not getting it to fully boot.

>> No.2069406

>>2068117
It sounds like you have a crack in the solider on the power jack.

Check and see if there's any cracks. It wouldn't hurt to re-flow the solder

>> No.2069432

>>2069404
Also, the system has been recapped with new electrolytic capacitors

>> No.2069479

Is there any guides out there to each model of PS2 and how to tear it down with pictures? I'm talking the fat models.

I reassembled a 3001 and I am wondering if I missed any parts.

>> No.2069829

>>2069203
There's ground all over the place. Most large plated areas will be ground or vcc. Pick one that's convenient and test to see which it is. If it's not ground try again.

>> No.2070354

I have this red GBA SP, I love that thing so much, if only I had more games to play in it, anyway, recently I noticed that there is a huge ugly sploch on the middle of the screen, barely noticeable when it's off, horribly noticeable when it's on, I just can't play it anymore despite it being 100% functional, I really wanna know what the fuck that thing is and if there's anyway to get it the fuck off from my GBA.

>> No.2070365

I have a softmodded Wii that can play GC games if I have the ISO on a SD card, and Wii backups I usually do myself, or at least that's how it rolled until it came a day where USB Loader simply wouldn't read any of the discs I made, it can still play my cousin's games like Just Dance and NSMB but I can't play the backups I made for mario Kart Wii, a handful of GC games and Mario Galaxy (Galaxy is already a story on it's own), but the Skyward Sword backup I did years ago, however, still works just fine, did I accidentally uninstalled something? Is my Wii getting old?

On a related topic, I also had emulators on my Wii like Snes9xGx and GenPlus, and recently I downloaded a bunch of roms like Kirby Superstar, Sparkster (both on Genesis and SNES), Hyper Zone and Rocket Knight adventure, all of them worked just fine except for Rocket Knight Adventures and Hyper Zone, those just don't show up on the list, I've tried using them as zip files and extracting them, they just don't show up.

>> No.2070380

>>2070365
About Mario Galaxy, I've been trying to beat this game 100% for 5 goddamn years, the reason why I haven't is because during the ending there is a disc error disclaimer that just won't allow me to go on and see the credits, I neer found a way around it and never had the money to buy another disc, I tried using a backup and it worked, I can play as Luigi now, but now that I have to go through the EndGame as Luigi, the USB Loader doesn't read the backup anymore, for no reason.

>> No.2070387

>>2070354
Sounds like the screen has taken a bashing or maybe it got crushed from the outside,i doubt it can be fixed

>> No.2070406
File: 1.37 MB, 2592x1936, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2070406

>>2070387
Oh fuck no, really?

I have a picture of it, is it really fucked? It doesn't even look damaged, it looks like dirt got inside

>> No.2070415
File: 27 KB, 388x384, keep crying.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2070415

>tfw dreamcast laser isn't working

I spent a ton of time last night calibrating the laser with a screwdriver, and I finally got discs to start reading. Woke up this morning and booted it up, and it's back to square 1. Nothing reads, and I've been tweaking the laser screw for way too fucking long and I can't get anything. Throw me a fucking, bone, dreamcast. Discs spin at full speed, but I can't get past the startup dreamcast splash screen.

Are there any other work-arounds for a broken laser besides the tweak everyone and their dog suggests? I know someone makes those GDEMUs, but they're fucking expensive and I could buy a dozen dreamcasts for that price.

>> No.2070453

>>2070406
Its hard to tell what im looking at,only you can tell if the lcd screen inside is damaged or if its actually dirt

>> No.2070460

>>2070415
Just give up,tweaking lasers will end in misery,the laser is fucked and your not going to revive it,and when you increase the laser strength you decrease its lifespan so you might have already fucked it up for good.

I just bought a GD-EMU actually,havent spent much time with it yet but its bretty gud,unless you can get another laser id consider getting the gd-emu otherwise your just going to have a broken dreamcast doing nothing

>> No.2070475

>>2070415
Dreamcast consoles are a dime a dozen, man. I understand wanting to fix hardware you already own, but just buy a new one for $20

>> No.2070479

>>2070460
I'd like a gdemu but I can't justify spending ~140 bucks for one.

>>2070475
more like 40 bucks because ebay prices and shipping. I could eat that, but I wish there were another way.

>> No.2070793

probably a silly question, but is it possible to mod a cartridge slot to a computer so that an emulator can read the rom straigth from the cartridge?

>> No.2070798

>>2070793
That's basically what the shilltron 5 does. There's also no point in doing this since others have gone through the effort of dumping game ROMs already.

>> No.2070803

>>2070798
but if I wanted to do it just for the novelty factor it is possible?

>> No.2070816

>>2070803
Yeah. How do you think people ripped roms in the first place? How do you think cartridges are made?

>> No.2070838
File: 176 KB, 640x480, 1d55a047-cba5-444d-bbc0-faf4766ad.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2070838

sup /vr/os

My nes displays some wavy lines for the first 30-45 minutes of gameplay, I tried several cables, original ac adapters and tvs.

Anyone knows what could it be?

>> No.2070840

>>2070816
I see now that I asked my question poorly, let me rephrase it.
I want to connect a cartridge slot to my computer in one of the 5.25" bays, so that I can play games straight from the cartridge. Is this possible?

>> No.2070850

>>2070840
It's possible to do. Not sure if anyone has bothered, since it's much more convenient to just do it through a USB port or something like that.

And there's no point, just download roms others have ripped previously.

>> No.2070901
File: 672 KB, 1934x2579, sL9p0ga[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2070901

>>2070850
>And there's no point
No reason to not it

>> No.2071170

>>2070479
>more like 40 bucks because ebay prices and shipping
If you want that convenience then you'll have to pay that price. Maybe just get the pickup because it's cheaper and shipping will be a lot cheaper.

>>2070840
>I asked my question poorly
You sure did. I was about to answer it until you made it clear you just want to build a retron clone.

>> No.2071227
File: 149 KB, 1000x750, IMG_1868.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2071227

Behold, my Kirby's Pinball Land high score which I set when I was about 9 years old. Game Boy games are now at the age where their batteries have started dying. My Donkey Kong's battery already needed to be replaced, an I'm afraid it may soon happen to KPL and destroy my score with it. Before that happens, I would like to change the battery. Is there a way to keep a charge to the cartridge while I replace it?

>> No.2071232

>>2071227
Yes, you just need to connect another power source to the battery terminals before you remove the battery.

>> No.2071238
File: 25 KB, 460x308, indiana-jones-idol-swipe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2071238

>>2071227
Indiana Jones that shit bro

>> No.2071239

>>2071232
Care to elaborate? I really need my hand held here.

>> No.2071246
File: 262 KB, 800x534, 99004418.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2071246

>>2070901
This is f_cking awesome
wild artist www.vaduamka.com

>> No.2071248

>>2071238

I chortled

>> No.2071250

>>2071239
I haven't done this before, but in theory it's very simple. You just solder a connection from the battery terminals in the opened cart to a back up power source (e.g., external battery holder with battery). Once that's done, you remove the battery in the cart and replace it with a fresh one, then you desolder the connections to the back-up power source.

>> No.2071278

>>2071227
Take the back off the game and stick it into a gameboy advance. Either version of the advance should work the important thing is the game has to stick out of t he cartridge slot. Power the advance on and your saves will be safe while you remove the battery and replace it

>> No.2071298

>>2071246
psst you can say fuck here its ok

>> No.2071412

Just got my NES RGB modded and my NES came with a 3rd party AC adapter, will this damage the console in the long run and I would need to purchase an official one or just keep it?
Same with my SNES mini

>> No.2071434

>>2071250
I have done it and it's even simpler. Clip power to the cart edge connector.

>> No.2071439

>>2071412
If it outputs 9-11V at 850mA or higher it will work.

>> No.2071442

>>2071439
for the NES or SNES?

>> No.2071451

>>2071442
Both.

NES and SNES power adapters use the same power ratings and both output AC. The original adapters are 10VAC 850mA.

>> No.2071456

>>2071451
sounds good thanks!

>> No.2072046

>>2071451
Wrong.

NES is 9V 1.3A

>> No.2072096
File: 437 KB, 1534x576, 2014-11-17_01-02-05_974-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2072096

>>2071412
>>2071439
>>2071442
>>2071451
>>2071456
>>2072046
Just took this picture, in case anybody had any doubt.

>> No.2072307

>>2069406
Did it (even if the solder looked clean) and the atari has been powered for 3 hours non stop, so thank you kind anon

>> No.2072309

>>2070406
Looks like dirt to me, try to open your GBA and see if there is effectively any dirt on the screen or on the case. Wash it with alcohol if it is the case. If not your screen is probably busted.

>> No.2072310

>>2070838
Not an expert on the field but this look like a faulty condenser

>> No.2072312
File: 649 KB, 300x300, 1415867265619.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2072312

>>2072307
No problem bro.

You gota work from the ground up.

On a side note, Atari chips are usually socketed and you can remove them at any time. I learned that the hard way

>> No.2072351

>>2072312
While you're there, any idea on how to remove the plastic above the cart slot? While it's still open I want to clean the contacts as thoroughly as possible and possibly without the credit card trick

>> No.2072365
File: 12 KB, 272x237, 1416108091825.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2072365

>>2072351
Yeah.....

The plastic is kinda really hard to get off. Like, near impossible. If I recall it's all attached in one unit and the credit card trick is the only way I've found that works without taking the entire thing off the board.

You might be able to cut some thick fabric and stick it in, like the NES or SNES cleaner

>> No.2072383

>>2072365
>>2072351
Also might want to take a look at this

http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_2600_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdf

>> No.2072437

>>2072365
>>2072383

Well I don't want to end with a broken atari so it will be the credit card trick. Thanks anyway for the service guide.

>> No.2072701

>>2071227
Backup, replace battery and restore your data.
If you don't have something to backup you GB games then the method:>>2071434 is the next best thing you can do.
Just apply 5V on the the right spots of the PCB.
Before that you could measure your batteries. If it's 2.8V then you got about 6 months until battery is fully dry (this was the case with Pokemon silver), if it's higher then there's no big reason to worry.

>>2071412
If it fits (5.5x2.5m) and has >9V and >1A then it should work. Pitfalls are usually crappy PSUs with unclean output (noise) or way to high impedance. A modern switching supply 12V 1.2A worked for me without any side effects unlike crappy ones that fucked up my zapper games, caused unstable/jumpy video or glitches.

>>2071451
The right PSU for the SNES depends on the region.
PAL SNES PSU is exactly the same as the NES PSU: 9-9.4Vac 1.3A
NTSC SNES is different with 10Vdc 850mA center negative.

>> No.2072923

I'm thinking about buying a Universal V3 mod chip for my Saturn.

I've soldered wires to things before, but my Saturn is a later model, and according to the guide, I'll have to bridge two pads on the back of the chip. How does one do this? Do you just make a big glob of solder over the two pads (the pads are right next to one another)? Do you need a wire? I'm still pretty new to soldering.

>> No.2073329

>>2072923
Just use a wire. It's cleaner with less chance of making an unwanted contact with something else. Personally I use the left over ends of leads from resistors as jumpers. Any single core wire of a reasonable thickness will work.

>> No.2073364

>>2072923
I have a universal chip in my saturn, and they come pre-soldered so all you need to do is solder it to the 5V line.

of course, you don't actually NEED to do that. I didn't have a soldering gun at my apt, so I just wrapped the wire around the 5V line and it works fine. I'll eventually solder it if I need to, but for now it works fine. It's the simplest thing to install.

On an unrelated note, I was wondering if anyone has experience with ebay return policies. The seller gave me a dreamcast but it doesn't read discs, even though it was claimed as "used - working condition". However, it also says no returns, but also says I'm protected by ebay money back guarantee. So what happens if I file a complaint? Does the return happen even if it says I can't?

>> No.2073371

>>2072923
Ive done this mod to my model 2 and it was really easy,theres a guide on segastyle.com just google it and follow that to make sure because you need to confirm which cd drive you have ,cant remember what i did but putting a blob of solder over both will work,after that its just 2 wires to solder.I did try the same mod on a model 1 and its 10 times harder and i couldnt get it to work anyway.

>> No.2073376

>>2073364
Doesnt matter what the seller says about returns he sold you a faulty item and has to refund you,email him and ask to send it back for a refund if he refuses open a claim and be honest with everything and your guaranteed to win the case,just make sure you dont leave it too long to open a case.

>> No.2073398

>>2073376
That's good to hear. Shame because it was a really good deal, but oh well. Only thing I'm leaving out of the story is that I opened it up and tried tweaking the laser pot to revive it. No success.

>> No.2073761
File: 2.13 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2073761

Hey guys I was wondering if anybody can help me with this problem i am having with my NES. It's all plugged up into my tv with the RF on channel 3 and this keeps happening. My NES is not blinking red it anything like that, anybody know what's up?

>> No.2074289

>>2073761
That looks like a freaking bandplot. how does it look using the rca jacks?

>> No.2074342

>>2073761
Your RF cable is likely damaged.

>> No.2074843

We're gonna need another thread soon.

>> No.2076736

I bought a Hori controller for the N64 from ebay.
And when I plug it into my N64 it says that there is no controller connected, is there a way to fix this or am I fucked?

>> No.2076775

>>2076736
Just saying "it doesn't work" gives us absolutely nothing to go by.

Open the controller, check the cord for continuity, look for obvious damage, then come back with those results.

>> No.2076840
File: 3.37 MB, 4128x2322, 20141119_150233.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2076840

>>2076775
I checked the outside and the cord, there is nothing damaged there. I will open the controller tonight (and post pictures of it if that helps). Is there anything I should look out for?
Here is a picture of it how it is right now.

>> No.2076875

>>2076840
You're going to need a multimeter to test the cord for continuity. I've never opened one of those, but if the cord management is anything like the first party controllers, it's wound through several plastic pegs at tight angles after it enters the controllers, and years of use can cause the wires to break at that point.

>> No.2076979

>>2076840
test it in the Wii next to the N64

>> No.2076986
File: 3.90 MB, 4128x2322, 20141119_200218.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2076986

>>2076875
I'm retarded. I missed this cut in the cable. Not sure if it is completely through but it looks white on the inside.
I wanted to open the controller but I don't have a small enough screwdriver and I don't have a multimeter.
I don't think that one of the pegs is broken since the controller doesn't rattle when i shake it.

>>2076979
Maybe if I push hard enough it will fit.

>> No.2076987

>>2076986
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120107163040AAJgRPG

>> No.2076990

>>2076986
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130727111725AAGGtDH

the controllers work in the wii... :I

>> No.2076997

>>2076987
>>2076990
Not sure if I completely follow you, do you mean this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN4sf-YLoLU

>> No.2077002

>>2076997
huh i derped, i thought it could plug into the top of the wi.

pls ignore me.

>> No.2077008

>>2076987
>>2076990
>a controller with an N64 connector works in a system that has gamecube connectors

>> No.2077009

>>2077002
Ha, no problem. Tnx for the help anyway