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/vr/ - Retro Games


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File: 942 KB, 3280x2460, 101_1533.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041240 No.2041240 [Reply] [Original]

Previous thread: >>2021606
These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays (TVs and monitors) as used for retro video games and systems allowed by the board rules in the current sticky (>>1392415 ). Subtopics *directly* related to this main topic are welcome.

A few tips so we don't get our thread deleted and have better discussions:
>Try to keep it /vr/-related: Nothing past 5th gen(+Dreamcast), vidya only. Slight OT might be okay if strictly related to CRTs (E.G. 16:9 compatible models, flatscreens, etc.)
>Try to be as detailed as possible when asking info on a specific model. As always, google is your friend.
>Have fun and enjoy glorious cathode displays

CRT Pastebin (WIP): http://pastebin.com/1Ri5TS3x

Post pictures of spooky vidya on CRTs

>> No.2041265
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>> No.2041269
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>> No.2041270 [DELETED] 

>>2041265
>>2041269

>Still posting the same pics of the same filters

Nice.

>> No.2041273
File: 51 KB, 640x480, snapshot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041273

Any clue what this is? Sorry for the terrible image.

27.5' Panasonic with built in stereo and 2 video modes if that makes it any clearer.

>> No.2041281

>>2041273

Do you want us to find the model? Sorry mate, but if you want to buy it, you might as well ask the owner for a photo of this TV set's ass.
Many other anons asked similar questions, but we can't just guess the model by looking at a blurry pic of the set, sorry.
Good luck anyway, it looks like a nice set. I just hope you can pick it up locally, because 27" is a pretty big and the shipping costs will be as enjoyable as being raped.

>> No.2041284
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2041284

>>2041270
I'm going to keep posting them until you either go away or stop complaing about it. These pictures are of a CRT, are from a halloween/spooky themed games, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that since I'm following the thread's theme.

>being this much of autist over tiny details and over boogeyman filters

Nice.

>> No.2041287
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>> No.2041293
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>> No.2041295
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>> No.2041296
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>> No.2041297

Let's see if you can help me, /vg/:
I have a cheapo Sharp CRT TV with SCART. A couple days ago, I finally got a NES, but I have a problem: sprites on bright backgrounds have a white-ish shadow. I'm using it with composite, of course. My Megadrive with RGB and my Twin Famicom with composite look perfectly fine. What could be the problem? I'd take a pic but I don't have a camera.

>> No.2041301
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>> No.2041302

>>2041297
/vr/*
I don't even post on /vg/, IDK why I typed that

>> No.2041323 [DELETED] 

>>2041284

Ain't going away, there's too much nice stuff here for me to just go away because of some kind of filter spammer.

>invoking autism when contradicted

'kay mate. Enjoy your fog filter with black lines, they sure look great when playing with badly synched emulators. :)

>>2041297
>>2041302

Well, that's composite noise for you. It's perfectly normal to have it and it's intensity depend on:
- The quality of the cable
- How much of a mess this cable go through
- The quality of the composite decoder
- If there's a nice comb filter in the TV set or not
Are the one displayed on your TV really that bad or it's just noticeable but nothing more?
Anyway, don't worry, it's even worse with an RF signal.

>> No.2041328
File: 138 KB, 1280x960, Nasty ass nigga needs to clean up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2041328

>>2041281
That's my fault. Haven't unpacked the camera after moving, but I understand entirely it wasn't the best picture. I was just sort of hoping someone would say something like "I recognize that TV!".

After looking around on the remote I found out it's a Panasonic CT-27SF11S 27" SuperFlat TV. I picked it up at a small thrift store for $30 on my way down to my new place. I gotta say, for a TV made in 1994 it looks and sounds phenomenal. The only problem is that the brightness setting is just a contrast bar.

Here's a better pic pulled from an Ebay listing.

>> No.2041335
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2041335

>>2041323
>badly synched emulators

lol. You don't know what you're talking about. Get over yourself and stop posting ignorant crap like that.

And yes, it is autism when you sperg out over things that 99% of people wouldn't notice unless they were told about it or put their nose up against the screen.

Now, I'm going to try not to respond any more to your retarded troll posts.

>> No.2041342
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2041342

>>2041323
>Well, that's composite noise for you.
But none of my consoles(Twin Famicom, SNES, Master System II with composite mod to name a few) do this when using composite. I took a pic with my potato phone, I think you can see it.

>> No.2041346

>These threads are for the civil discussion of CRT displays
>civil
Please

>> No.2041426

You are given the opportunity to buy a 20L5.
What price would you pay for it?
I have one lined up but he needs to price it first.
I'm hoping it won't be too much.

>> No.2041440

>>2041323

Point out in those pics were a filter is being used, because I certainly couldn't tell where that was happening.

If he's using a filter, then it's doing a pretty good job of making it look good. I don't see any such "fog filter" (though his camera probably needs to be set to a lower ISO so it doesn't glow so much in the pics), it just looks like you would expect from a CRT. The scanlines are quite strong and sharp but it still looks good.

Sounds like you're just being an elitist prick about it apparently coming from an emulator though. Yes, some emulators have crappy accuracy or have poor synchronization, but we have pretty good solutions now for most systems, so there's nothing wrong with using emulators, especially if it's the way he's doing it.

>> No.2041442

>>2041342

That looks like excessive ringing from a sharpening filter turned up too high. Some TVs have that, I've noticed, and you should try to look for a way to turn it down or turn it off.

>> No.2041461
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>>2041442
Thank you! I turned the sharpness all the way down and the shadows are almost completely gone. Is this a normal noise level now?

>> No.2041510

>>2041461

That looks like regular composite output now, yes.

I still see a little bit of ringing but it's nowhere near as noticeable as before.

>> No.2041532
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2041532

>>2041461
Looks alright to me.

>> No.2041551

I picked up a Sharp lc-20sh3u, one of these flat guys with the stand, at a yard sale a while ago with the hope of using it for retro games. Anyone have any experience with them?

>> No.2041554
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2041554

>>2041551
oops forgot my stock photo

>> No.2041563

Are ikegami monitors the way to go if I also want to go for 5th gen?

>> No.2041731
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2041731

>>2041563
>if I also want to go for 5th gen?
I'm not sure why you're categorizing 5th gen separately from other retro systems.

>> No.2041735

>>2041731
I'm gonna go ahead and guess he meant to say or was trying to refer to the 6th gen.

>> No.2041787
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2041787

>>2041735
In that situation, what you'd want would be a multisync(15/31) monitor so you'd be able to due both 240p/480i and 480p.

Whether that's a PVM, BVM, presentation monitor or otherwise really all depends on personal preference and what you can find.

>> No.2041948

>>2041342
>>2041461

Are you sure this is an SD tv? I don't see even a hint of scanlines. Looks upscaled.

>> No.2041960

>>2041948
Older, typically smaller CRTs had little to no hint of scanlines. I'd wager scanlines did not become visible on typical consumer displays until at least the mid 90's.

>> No.2041965

>>2041948
>muh scanlines

>> No.2041984
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2041984

>>2041960
>I'd wager scanlines did not become visible on typical consumer displays until at least the mid 90's.
U wot.
Scanlines have always been visible on color displays.

>> No.2042009

>>2041984
Guess what, even if for some reason he posted an upscaled screen you would still be able to see the scanlines because during a field odd/even lines are blanked out just like 240p.

>> No.2042026

>>2042009
Not disagreeing with you on that, friend.
Just pointing out that scanlines have always been visible on CRT displays. Back in the 80's my Navy CO always chewed my ass off about fixing the screens stationed around the base. He'd say stupid stuff like "Private Boobtube! I need you to get this distracting fish-net looking shit off of my TV! RIGHT NOW!" whenever we got larger models in.

>> No.2042035

>>2042026
Yeah but his TV is so small that phosphor layers become really sensible to light (he really should turn his brightness down a bit), not to mention this also happens when using dirty signals such as composite which are especially noisy with brightness turned up.

>> No.2042148
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2042148

>>2041948
Yep. It's a 15" Sharp from the late 90s/early 2000s. Here's a pic

>> No.2042152

>>2042035
The brightness isn't even at 25%. I tried turning it down even more but colors just don't look right.

>> No.2042162
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2042162

>> No.2042190 [DELETED] 

>>2042162
>>2041787
>>2041731
>>2041532

>Nice scanlines of variable thickness depending on the brightness of the surrounding pixels
>Nice and uniform bloom
>Give an overall enjoyable picture with the natural artifacts of an RGB 240p video signal displayed on a 15kHz monitor

>>2041335
>>2041301
>>2041296
>>2041295
>>2041293
>>2041287
>>2041284
>>2041269
>>2041265

>Ugly pixel-thick black lines
>Ultra-Bright "blurry-bloom" that burn your eyes
>Feel and look like filters

Sorry but you can repeat yourself as much as you want, but your filter don't look like a real BVM. You don't even need to see to zoom the screen to see it, just a simple observation from a viewer point of view. Your filter just look like the Znes or PC88win "scanlines".
A barebone emulator shot without blur or "scanlines" will look nicer than the crap on your shots anon. Well maybe you're too much of an autist that you "need" to emulate scanlines because you can't play without them.

>> No.2042213
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2042213

>>2041240
Why on my photos, we see the effect of refreshment of the screen?
(Pic: Mario 64 on N64 RGB mod, on TV PAL / SECAM)

>> No.2042223

>>2042213

It's because you don't have the right shutter speed.

>> No.2042320
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2042320

How is this type of problem called? It's mainly on the left side, also is it possible to fix it to some extent? Monitor is 2310QM.

thanks

>> No.2042343

>>2042320

To be fair, I don't see where the problem is anon. Can you explain what's happening that shouldn't be?

Also, is that an Amiga you're using with it? The cursor remind me of the one used by some Amiga softwares.

>> No.2042346

>>2042343
Not him but there's some phosphor curvature on the lower left quadrant.

>> No.2042347

>>2042343
Yeah, Amiga 1200 with WB 3.

It's slightly curvy on the left, it's probably not that much visible, but in some games it's more visible and annoying, especially when connected to PC with soft15khz.

>> No.2042352

>>2042320
>>2042343

Oh also it's 2130QM and not 2310QM as I wrote before.

>> No.2042375

>>2042347
>>2042346

Oh I see. Can you post a pic of the monitor while playing a game to see how bad it can becomes?
Does it happens the same thing to the other corners? Does this model degauss itself on startup?

>> No.2042393

>>2042375
It's hard to capture it well but basically left corner is bent/curvy while right one looks normal. Also compared to Amiga's resolutions it's rather off centered, is it possible to adjust it with software? I tried it with arcade_osd but it didn't move and when I tried to move it within catalyst control center it goes back to 31khz, showing garbage on the screen until restart.

It doesn't have degauss button, but it probably deagauses itself on power on - it does that classic bang on startup.

>> No.2042396
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2042396

>>2042393
And I obviously forgot picture.

>> No.2042413

>>2042396
>>2042393

Okay, I now can see that it goes pretty bad now.
Hmm, I don't know if there are individual corner adjustment that aren't magnets on the back of the tube. Have you checked the cables? I can't think of anything yet.

>> No.2042435

>>2042413
Cables should be fine, picture shows well on other TV(ofcourse colors are not that good as on the PVM). Do you think that degaussing coil might be able to fix it? My friend maybe has one somewhere, they are rather hard to get now. Thanks for help anyways.

>> No.2042442

>>2042435

Well it is being degaussed at every startup, but you might still try.

>> No.2042632
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2042632

Welp, got my monitor in. It seems to be stuck in some kind of 16:9 mode? Any idea how to change this /vr/? Can't find the service manual anywhere.

>> No.2042774

>>2042632
If you haven't already tried, i'd press that button above headphone jack or the one left to it.

>> No.2042796

I don't really know much about crts, but are sony trinitrons regarded as the best crts?

>> No.2042818

>>2042796

They're not alway the best, but they're mostly pretty good compared to the other tubes with the same inputs and made at the same period. Also, they're one of the few manufacturers that didn't made their CRT TVs in china in the 90s and early 00s, because of the trinitron tube (though some components were still imported from china). There were other good manufacturers too, like Ikegami, Panasonic, NEC or Sharp.
Anyway, it's better to alway check if the specific models you find have flaws or not instead of going buying a set blindly because of the company that manufactured it.

>> No.2042820

>>2042396
I have two 2130QM's. Did you open them up and fiddle with the service screws?

>> No.2042823

>>2042818
Oh, I see, thanks - I guess I'll look out for them.

>> No.2042828

>>2042820
I've only opened it once, when it arrived - it was dirty. Which pot should I adjust? I don't want to screw it up even more, that's why I asked how is this type of error called.

>> No.2042829

>>2042828
The ones on the side are mostly for geometry adjustments, so I would try the screws on the back.

>> No.2042831

Could someone explain pvm grades? I'm looking for the top quality model for 16 bit gaming. Price is not a issue.

>> No.2042839

>>2042831
Buy the Sony BVM-20F1U.

>> No.2042879

>>2042829
On the back there are only pots for RGB adjusting, which seems fine for me.. this seems more like geometry issue, I'll try the PIN AMP pot, also do you often change V-size and V-pos? When I connect it to PC with groovymame, every resolution is bit off.. and opening/closing it all the time would be annoying.

>> No.2042928

>>2042879
No, I don't change them often. I adjusted them to perfectly fit the test image generator and it works moderately well with most images. If I plan on playing the same console for a long time, I might adjust the pots for perfect image.

>> No.2043034

How long until we can replicate CRT screens on high resolution LCD screens with shaders?

>> No.2043035

>>2043034

Never.

>> No.2043040

>>2043034

You technically can already if you have a 1440p screen or higher, with 120hz refresh rate.

>> No.2043043

>>2043040

You can emulate CRT motion, but not the contrasts and colors though.

>> No.2043046

Halloweens is over. Soon we will have christmas crt thread. All them lovely snow levels on my crt.

>> No.2043048

>>2043043
>but not the contrasts and colors though.

IPS already beats CRT in those areas

>> No.2043052

>>2043048

Nope, only OLED. Also IPS is slow as fuck.

>> No.2043053
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2043053

>>2043046
Fuck year. Can't wait to replay Mega Man 8 next month on my new CRT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGq0X2cjWpg

>> No.2043071

I don't know if it's appropriate to post here, but there's a Kickstarter going on right now to make component cables for the SNES and Genesis, which would eliminate the need for an RGB-to-component transcoder on American CRTs (for acceptable picture quality) if anyone's interested.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/hdretrovision/sega-genesis-and-super-nintendo-component-cables

What do you guys think of it?

>> No.2043080

>>2043071
>eliminate the need for an RGB-to-component transcoder
It's not eliminating the need, just putting adding one inline.

>What do you guys think of it?
It's a neat idea for someone who only wants quality video for one or maybe two consoles. Even at 2 cables for the price point I was quoted, you're paying just about as much as normal SCART cables and a standalone transcoder.

I also think they should stop viraling here, lest they become the next shitposting target in the same vein as Hyperkin.

>> No.2043084

>>2043071
>Bring your retro consoles into the HD era!
No.

>> No.2043090

>>2043084

This. There might be an upscaller hidden in there.

>> No.2043108

>>2043071
Sounds like that 0.25 second input lag will give me the authentic upscale and post-processing experience I've been craving.

>> No.2043146

>>2043071
I think it's nice how you posted the same shit in the old crt thread.

>> No.2043226

Does the PS2 support composite sync with RGB?

>> No.2043231
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2043231

>>2043048

>> No.2043246

>>2043226
Nope.

>> No.2043256

>>2043246
Why not, though? Can't monitors use the sync from the composite video signal? Isn't this what the PS1 does to achieve RGB?

>> No.2043287

>>2043226
Sync-on-green only. You can strip it and turn it into composite sync with a LM1881N though.

>> No.2043293

>>2042831
>>2042839


I picked up a CRT off an ewaste pile locally and used my PS1 on it, and it was shit - the geometry is screwed, the whol screen is rotated clockwise slightly, the colour bleed is awful and the convergence was off (the red scan gun was shooting slight down and left of the other two). It was -the best- picture i've seen in 10 years, far and away. It absolutely blew my socks off, and made me want to investigate other CRTs.

The BVMs are absolutely amazing, but also crystal clear and effectively very high res. I'd recommend you either hang around a bit, or go up and have a read of this thread because there's some discussion above (try to ignore those guys arguing in broken English because it will only confuse you). There's always more coming, and more to learn.

The problem can be that the BVMs are *so* precise and clear that they start looking something like emulators on a 1080p monitor again. Note i said *something* like. A BVM screen ist far superior in terms of contrast and colours and response times and the rest.The BVMs also have more controls to play with than other, less-complex and expensive sets, and are much more involved.

If what you want is to re-create the games you enjoyed, a PVM might be a better choice. I'm not saying it will be, because even that might be too sharp, or not sharp enough depending on what you want, and what inputs you use - RGB is best, then S-Video, then Composite (the common yel/red/wh), then RF (I don't think anything 16bit did component natively?) TBH you'll probably want at least S-Video, and you may need to look into how that differs in PAL and NTSC regions. Delivering RGB involves making your own cables if you don't have SCART input.

Cont...

>> No.2043302

>>2043293
FYI:
PVM's were made by a few manufacturers. Sony is the most common in Aus, AFAIK. Sony's were marked Sony PVM (professional video monitor) then some numbers. The first two digits are normally screen size +1". The second two or three letters/number are model description.

Sony PVM-20M4A - That's a Sony Professional Video Monitor - 20" tube (19" visible) model M4 (M series, plus the HR or highres trinitron tube) A region for Australia.

The BVMs from Sony are similar, but designation formats that differ more the further back you go. They also have far superior phosphors, and easier access to geometry and convergence controls. one's back to about 1990 have OSDs or On-Screen Displays that will show you what you're adjusting.

>> No.2043312

>>2043293
>>2043302
SONY PVM's have a single speaker on the front left. BVM's have no audio at all. Both use BNC connectors, but you can get BNC to RCA adapters pretty easily.

>> No.2043536

>>2043040
how do you got about doing this?

>> No.2043637

What would be the name of the setting to adjust horizontal positioning/centering on a PVM (14M4U in this case)? The picture is a bit too far to the left and I want to move it over. I assume it's in the service menu?

>> No.2043645

>>2043637
Access the service menu and it should be service item #4, H FREQUENCY. You'll also probably want to adjust item #8, H SIZE. Make sure you remember to write the adjustments to memory so you don't lose them after you turn the set off.

To get into the service menu, pull up the normal menu, then hit DEGAUSS and ENTER simultaneously.

To write settings to memory, press DEGAUSS, "WRITE" should appear on the display, press DEGAUSS again and it will save the settings to memory.

>> No.2043752

>>2043256
Yeah but you need a JP/EU PS2.

>> No.2043754

>>2043752
NA PS2 outputs RGB natively. You can change it from component in the settings menu.

>> No.2043772

>>2043754
Then how do you explain >>2043246 and >>2043287?

I don't have a NA PS2 so I wouldn't know but to guess they got the same deal as the GC.

>> No.2043779

>>2043772

If you have an aftermarket video cable that breaks out into Component leads and a Composite lead, you can use that if your monitor will take composite as sync.

You can switch the output from component to RGB in the system menu, no tricks needed.

Among other reasons, it was built in so the PS2 VGA adapter worked properly.

>> No.2043783

>>2043779
I'm not even >>2043226 though, I already use RGB for my PS2, but people were going on about how it only supported Y Pr Pb.

>> No.2043784

>>2043772
I don't know what the others are having problems with, but I have a PSX SCART cable that works just fine on my Sony PVM for North American NTSC Playstation 1's, 2's, and 3's, which means they all send some kind of sync down the composite video pin.

>> No.2043820

The difference between a finely calibrated set and a non calibrated set both in convergence geometry, alignment and picture quality are staggering.

I had just finished calibrating my 1982 Profeel and it looks stunning now. Its quite literally giving an entirely different picture
There are no menu options so you need to adjust variable resistors and purity rings inside the set, which takes a long time considering the alignment adjustments are on the bottom pcbs.

Do newer professional sets need as much calibration or was this just due to the age in mine

>> No.2043835

>>2043820
>Do newer professional sets need as much calibration or was this just due to the age in mine

Every set needs some serious calibration imo.

>> No.2043843

>>2043835
Not him, but looking forward to the challenge - my PVM-14M4A is coming soon...

Speaking of which, i'm going to plug my PS1 into it, and i hope to use RGB. Is it right that i'll need 220uf capacitors in each of the colour lines (but not luma, that intend to try as sync)?

Is 75ohm grounding required or is it already taken care of before the signals get to the multi-out?

>> No.2043849

>>2043843
I bought PS1 RGB cables off ebay and didn't need to mod them.

>> No.2043856

>>2043849
did they have the capacitors already? Are you using them to connect to a CRT? Just asking to make sure...

>> No.2043858

>>2043856
>>2043849
Was it a premade SCART cable? I'm making my own pretty much from scratch and not using SCART, is all...

>> No.2043861 [DELETED] 

>>2043856
This is what America's stubbornness on using home made technology has done to people.

>> No.2043867

>>2043856
I use PVMs in Australia.
Got the PVM to euro scart and PSX rgb cables off ebay.

>> No.2043871

>>2043856
Also afaik the whole capacitor thing is just for NTSC super nes and super famicom. Has to do with how the video output circuit works (refer to viletim's site).

>> No.2043880

>>2043871
Seems the PSX ones should have caps,
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm

>> No.2043887

>>2043843

If you're using an official or a well made RGB cable, then no need to add anything. When you'll hook it up to the PVM with a SCART to BNC cable (I'm assuming it's a SCART RGB cable that you've bought), then the 75 ohm resistance will be applied by the BNC jack itself (when I made my cable, most sources stated that the BNC jacks had a 75ohm resistance).

>> No.2043897

>>2043226
Yes, but only 15kHz RGB.
31kHz is Sync-on-green only and doesn't work with most games without mods.

>> No.2043920

>>2043897
So as long as games don't run in 480p, composite sync is fine? Don't displays have to filter out the sync on green in that case?

>> No.2043928

>>2043897
PS2 doesn't have any pins for sync, period. You either get it from the CVBS plug or the Green/Y plug.

>> No.2043939

>>2043928
The composite video signal is still used for sync. Just like it is for nearly every single other console.
If you really, really want to then you can try to strip the signal to sync only but unless your monitor is a picky piece of shit then it doesn't matter.

>> No.2043943

>>2043939
>The composite video signal is still used for sync.
That's very different than "composite sync", though.

>> No.2043946

>>2043939
>Just like it is for nearly every single other console.

Sega consoles excepted, there's a separate sync pin on the AV port on all of them.

>> No.2043957

>>2043871
NO. PAL N64's need caps for S-Video. LCD won't, but using S-0Video on CRT, you want caps and resistors to ground.

>>2043887
Haven't bought anything but a cheapo PS component cable. Using it's fully-populated plug to split and wire up my own RGB cable because i like tinkering. I merely want to know if i need the caps, and it looks like i do >>2043880

I probably don't need the 75ohm resistors though, as i think those are already there

>> No.2043970

>>2043861
and wtf does that even mean, eurofag? I'm in Australia. SCART existed on about 1 in 1000 TV's here, if that. I'd prefer not to use it, and if i did get one i'd split it open and use it that way.

I want to use BNC to RCA dapters so i can plug 4 different consoles in easily. Any RGB cable i use i'll be making myself.

>> No.2043972

Were 24" widescreen and flatscreen monitors ever made in Australia?

>> No.2043978

>>2043972
made? Probably not, or not since the 60s/70s.

Imported? yes

>> No.2043979

>>2043978

Oh, widescreen/flatscreen.

In that case, no fkn way

>> No.2043982

>>2043978
Or sold.

>> No.2044026

Anybody with experience on Samsung or Toshiba CRTs? There's a couple of 29' sets with multiple video inputs for sale in my neighborhood and I'll certainly pick up one of them.

I wanted a Sony one, but there's none in my city for sale and buying it from out of here is unfeasible by all means.

>> No.2044030

>>2044026
>Anybody with experience on Samsung or Toshiba CRTs?

For Samsung,, I only have a PC monitor from them. it's nice and all, but pretty blurry at it's highest resolution though.
For Toshiba, I never owned one, but there are reports from some fellow Amiga users that the Toshiba-made Amiga monitors (early Commodore 1081) are prone to dry solders and have bad capacitors (even back in the day).

These 2 brands made some nice sets, but also some not quite good ones, so you should make some research about the specific models that are sold.

>> No.2044040

>>2043982
Naturally, yes. we got the same stuff as the rest of the world, just modified slightly to use different plugs and/or voltages.

Out of interest, why do you ask?

>> No.2044047

>>2043972
if you mean the fw900, well maybe the HP branded version might be around.
several years ago i found one NZ corporate supplier had it listed on their site, but out of stock for years and with the original pricetag.

>> No.2044069

>>2044047
I found a few 24" HP monitors: Compaq P1610 and HP A1295A. Apparently these were made in Australia, but I doubt anyone has them anymore they're probably been disposed of.

>> No.2044071

>>2044040
Because I live in Australia and the FW900 wasn't ever sold here.

>> No.2044085

>>2044069
why are you after an FW900? Are they any good? I'm not so familiar with specific PC monitors. I'm presuming it's multisync at least?

>> No.2044089

>>2044085

Not him, bu it seems it's one of the best trinitron PC monitor out there.

>> No.2044092

>>2044089
What would you say is THE best? I'm looking into PC CRT's.

>> No.2044102

>>2044092

Some Silicon Graphics monitors made for their MIPS 3D workstation if I recall. I don't know exactly.

>> No.2044110
File: 41 KB, 468x332, john_Carmack_working.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2044110

>>2044092
Overall best is probably the FW900 or one of its many re-badges.
However, there are larger (pic related), higher-res (such as the Viewsonic 225f and that one Lacie monitor) and better built (industrial CRT) monitors.

>> No.2044120

>>2044085
They're considered the best PC monitor.
>>2044110
Epic monitor.

>> No.2044132

>>2044120
Why are they considered to be great, though? Is it mainly the size of the screen?

>> No.2044148

>>2044132
Nice size, nice aspect ratio, nice resolution, nice build quality and nice availability compared to other options.

>> No.2044149

>>2044132
From my knowledge it's the size, the colour depth, high refresh rate and the fact that it's widescreen. I haven't seen one myself so I can't really say for sure.

>> No.2044159

>>2044132
colour depth
16:10 widescreen
it can pull of 2560x1600 @ 73 Hz

>> No.2044189

>>2044148
>>2044149
>>2044159
Thanks for the info!

>> No.2044265

Is a 4:3 screen optimal even for the games that support widescreen?

>> No.2044279

>>2044159
I thought VGA was limited to 2048x1536.

>> No.2044282

>>2044279

Well, now you know it isn't.

>> No.2044286

>>2044279
Depends entirely on your graphics card.
Most are indeed limited to 2048x1536. Depending on your GPU and RAMDAC resolutions above that will either not work or look like absolute shit.

>> No.2044313

>>2043048
Don't think so when it comes to reproducing the overall experience.
I have an Eizo running and while the picture is fantastic it doesn't compare to a tube at all. There are so many characteristics that the flat "perfect" canvas of the Eizo lacks. If I play PSX Doom on the Eizo and than on a Sony with PSX and RGB cable there are worlds between those two - the imperfection of the tube makes it amazing. Still I'm glad for panels, especially IPS ones, since for reading/working they're beyond awesome.

>> No.2044352

>>2044265
If it ain't native then it ain't great-ive.

>> No.2044385

How good are the service menus in (mid 2000s era) Sony TVs for correcting distortion in the image? There's a guy near me willing to give away an 27FS100 but he says that the image is a bit twisted. Can the service menus fix most distortion?

>> No.2044719
File: 55 KB, 600x600, ninscart.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2044719

I own one of (pic related) but it has a in/out switch. Does anyone know where I can get one? I've tried ebay and can't see one with a switch anywhere.

My CRT is PAL60 and can only play my SNES in colour when the cable used is set to out. To the best of my knowledge, out isn't the standard setting for a SCART cable and I was looking to stock up on them. Can someone also explain what the difference is internally with in/out signals and if it would be possible to rewire a SCART cable to reflect this?

>> No.2044725

>>2044385
They're quite substantial. Some convergence adjustments are still done with physical adjustment though.

>> No.2044727

>>2044159
2304x1440 is already pushing the limits of the aperture grille. 2560x1600 is not recommended.

>> No.2044758
File: 34 KB, 400x275, 14128216253.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2044758

>>2044159
Why would someone want a resolution that fucking high on a crt screen? Seriously, most games are around 1/4 that.

>> No.2044773

>>2044758

Because graphic designers were among the last CRT users. Natural colors, better contrasts than LCD, you don't want your work to look different on screen than what it will look like when it comes out of the printer.

>> No.2044780

>>2044758
I play modern games, too. FW900 does everything from 320x200 DOS modes up to 2304x1440 modern vidya.

>> No.2044808

>>2044758
What's the GDM-FW900s native resolution anyway?

>> No.2044831

>>2044808
>Recommended (16:10)
>Horizontal: 1920 dots
>Vertical: 1200 lines
Straight from the manual.
And if you calculate:
>Viewable image size Approx. 482.1 × 308.2 mm
>0.23 – 0.27 mm aperture grille pitch
482.1mm/0.25mm=1928.4 dots

>> No.2044856

>>2044773
Interesting, I thought they too had to go down the path of the flat panel.
What beside a CRT and IPS gives good color? I read about LED tech and it seems that it ain't that hot color wise...

>> No.2044862

>>2044831
Good, my most recent LED monitor is 1920x1050 and I really enjoyed that resolution. I will certainly enjoy this (if I ever get it).

>> No.2044868

>>2044856
I tried HDMI on my most recent LED and it looked like utter shit, it improved after I change the colour to ycbcr.

>> No.2044869

>>2044780
>FW900
Dang, the FW900 seems like a seriously hot tube. Would love to play some old games on it.

>> No.2044996

>>2044869
Why not F520? Native 4:3 for all the old games.

>> No.2045000

How can I tell if a TV is completely analog from input to scan?

>> No.2045040

>>2045000
If the Super Scope or Zapper works fine.

>> No.2045138

>>2044868
I had an issue like this on a gaming lcd monitor. Colors and the range of controls were shit on hdmi, but were great on vga. Weird

>> No.2045140
File: 21 KB, 132x99, ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°).gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2045140

>>2044868
>LED

>> No.2045141
File: 197 KB, 1024x768, scanlines.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2045141

>>2044996
I'm pretty sure it's the same size as a letterboxed mode on the FW900

>> No.2045421
File: 1.10 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1992.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2045421

>> No.2045459

bla

http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-E-C-CE-CM21DXA-NEW-21-CRT-MONITOR-COLOR-500-TVL-/390964070711?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item5b07464937

brand new

>> No.2045568

>There might be an FV310 near me on craigslist

holy shit I'm so excited, hopefully the guy gets back to me and isn't one of those doesn't-respond-to-emails assholes.

>> No.2045641

>>2044856

OLED is the one that have nice colors, way more than IPS, more of the level of a CRT.

>> No.2045652

>>2045641
Problem with OLED is it suffers from burn-in on the level of old plasmas, as well as good old sample-and-hold blur and terrible pixel response time, so lots of motion blur and ghosting abounds.

>> No.2045654

>>2045652
Also, diodes die quickly and unevenly.

>> No.2045657

>>2045652

True, it also degrade very fast. I don't think it'll ever hit the consumer market one day, due to these facts. But the other anon only asked about color reproduction though, and this kind of display seems like the only one that could get on the level of a CRT.

>> No.2045806

>>2045459
that thing looks hawt

>> No.2045808

Is the Anon in Melbourne bidding for that BVM-2000AP online?

Looks great. The guy says it's in amazing shape. Sadly, at 50+kg it weighs to much for me to get it to Tas, so BoL :)

>> No.2046001

>>2045140
This was before I was considering CRTs, I shouldn't have bought the monitor. It was a waste of money, it fucking broke because I leaned on it when I was changing the cables!

>> No.2046090

My PC monitor can't go to 240p. Is this a monitor issue or my GPU?
If I build a dos computer with all the correct hardware can I do 240p for DOS games?

>> No.2046113

>>2046090
>Is this a monitor issue
Yes, true 240p is 15khz.
DOS games usually doublescan such low resolutions to be above 31khz which is the minimum horizontal frequency of PC monitors.
If you want real 15khz 240p without doublescan or scanline filter then go for VGA->SCART or connect your PC to a PVM via BNC or something like that.

>> No.2046292
File: 3.96 MB, 4128x3096, IMG_20140807_163607.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2046292

>>2046090
Most VGA-era DOS games ran at 200p, but because CRT monitors cannot accept 15KHz input, they were line-doubled into 400p, which is why they have that iconic pixellated look.

>> No.2046298
File: 19 KB, 600x448, 00G0G_cyUh757Gtkj_600x450.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2046298

Can anyone tell me anything about this Mitsubishi TV? It looks so nice but god I bet moving it around is a pain in the ass.

>> No.2046325

>>2046298
I'm gonna go ahead and wager that it only has composite at best, but it should be quite nice for NES, Genesis, etc.

>> No.2046329

Anyone got an S-video or RGB modded Atari 2600 and a PVM? I'd like to see that console's non-existent details in full clarity.

>> No.2046356

>>2046090
Double the refresh rate to 120hz, then it will sync

>> No.2046365
File: 585 KB, 2000x1500, IMGP0704.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2046365

Hello /vr/, I just got done putting this rig together out of various bits and pieces that my parents had laying around. Needs a little fine-tuning (you can see some fringing in the picture), but damn, that 36" tube is a monster for almost all of these old systems.

One question, though. For some reason, the Dreamcast looks awful on it. Composite is extremely blurry, and S-Video has extremely bad dot crawl on the whole screen. Same system looks okay hooked up to my flatscreen with the same cable, and the SNES and N64 both look fine on the tube TV using S-Video. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

>> No.2046656

>>2046365
Dreamcast looks best on computer monitors through VGA.

>> No.2046738

>>2046365
Is the S-Video cable decent? If so, the TV might have a weird or substandard comb filter in it?

>> No.2047031

Quite dead here today.

I'm getting a HP P1130, it's 21" and 4:3. Native resolution is 2048 x 1536 at 75 Hz . Pixel pitch 0.24 mm. Is this worth getting?

>> No.2047053

>>2047031
Whoops, meant 1920 x 1440 @ 85 Hz and FD Trinitron aperture grille tube .

>> No.2047173

>>2047053
Only takes VGA/31KHz, through a 15-pin D-Sub connector (standard VGA connector, that is) is the only downside i can see, assuming everything else is good.

Is this the one in Old Beach?

>> No.2047201

>>2047173
Sorry, that's assuming it's the same as the other rebadged P1130's.

>> No.2047207

>>2047173
>Only takes VGA/31KHz
Where are you getting this? The specs clearly state that the max rez is 1920 x 1440 / 85 Hz.

>>2047031
Its a very good Sony rebadge set, only odd thing is that the specs seem to indicate that 85hz is the max refresh rate, you can't push it to ~120+ by turning down the resolution.
Of course, that's just what the spec sheet says. you may still be able to get away with it.

>> No.2047272

>>2047207
I am quite confident he should be able to go far beyond 85Hz by lowering the resolution. My Diamondtron's spec sheet states a max of 1280x1024@60Hz, but I can push it to 85Hz at 1024x768, and higher still at lower resolutions.

>> No.2047320

>>2047207
nono, not talking about resolution at all. Well, kinda but not aiming at that.

I was telling you it won't work with anything under a VGA 640x480 31Khz (NOTE Kilo-Hz, NOT Hz = scan frequency) signal. So no good for consoles before the 5th gen, PS2, Dreamcast, etc. Even then you'd have to work to get a signal through a VGA plug, save that DC VGA cord, i think?

As a computer monitor, it's probably great though.

>> No.2047321
File: 1.98 MB, 480x360, 043.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047321

>be at goodwill a few days ago
>find a nice philips crt with component in for $1
>buy that shit, plug my wii into it with component cables, use it for emulators
>today, decide to try putting a 50hz pal signal on it for shits and giggles
>mfw it worked
Only problem is that it can't decode PAL color, but since I'm using component this isn't an issue since it doesn't use PAL or NTSC color in the first place.

>> No.2047602

Any of you Auscunts bidding on the massive PVM-2950QM on ebay.com.au?

>> No.2047609

>>2047602
600 TVL resolution, which is 1.5 times any normal TV at least. But the seller isn't going nuts about picture quality, is he? Describes it as "working". That would have me worried. I'd want to ask more questions, or plug a console into it and test it.

manualslib.com/manual/242763/Sony-Pvm-2950q-Operating-Instructions-Mode-DAnd-146-Emploi-Manual-De-Instrucciones.html?#manual

I'm in Tas though. 50+kg is too much to make a mate in central Melb go and get, let alone the cost of getting it to Hobart.

>> No.2047618

>>2047609
Yeah I'm only watching it to see how much a large model will go for. Last decent 20" PVM went for over $280

>> No.2047627

>>2041301
dat ass

>> No.2047643

>>2047609
>600 TVL resolution, which is 1.5 times any normal TV at least
wut
My Consumer Trinitrons from the early 90s have a pitch of 0.5mm and the 14" ones have a visible picture width of 28cm giving me 560 LoHR and my KV-C2521D is 14" with a width of 48cm giving me 960 LoHR.

>> No.2047654

>>2047643
>KV-C2521D is 14"
*meant 24"

>> No.2047657

>>2047643
>pitch of 0.5mm
If you're talking about dot pitch/stripe pitch (since it's an Aperture grille), that is different than TVL.

Furthermore, TVL.LoHR is counted over a horizontal distance equal to the vertical dimension of the picture area, not the entire set.

TVL/LoHR is not dependent on AG pitch. For example, a PVM-14M4U, which is an 800TVL set has the same 0.25MM AG Pitch as a PVM-14M2U, even though it has a higher resolution.

TVL/LoHR is referring to the actual size of the phosphor stripes on the phosphor screen.
AG pitch refers to the center-to-center distance of the gaps between the wires in the aperture grille.

I haven't seen any consumer sets advertise specific TVL numbers. And 0.5mm is a pretty coarse AG Pitch if you're getting into pro monitors. I have a 20" 600TVL PVM-20M2MDU, and it has a 0.4MM AG Pitch.

>> No.2047670

>>2047618
Wow, $300! I got one of those 14" ones for $32. Still it's not going to be much fun playing coop on it because it's microscopic :)

>> No.2047674

>>2047207
I thought the native resolution was that and the max resolution is 2048 x 1536 at 75 H.

>>2047320
That's what I intend to use it as, nothing else.

>> No.2047676

>>2047657
Thanks for this explanation.

So, it's somewhat 21cm/0.5mm=~420 LoHR for my 14" and 35cm/0.5mm=~700 LoHR for my 24" but the real actual resolution is a little lower than this.

>For example, a PVM-14M4U, which is an 800TVL set has the same 0.25MM AG Pitch as a PVM-14M2U, even though it has a higher resolution.
I wonder how a close up from the phosphors look like if it's has this kind of difference.
Are the stripes just thinner or is it something else?

>> No.2047686

>>2047618
>>2047670
How did that 20" BVM not go for more the other day, i wonder?

>> No.2047690

>>2047676
You're still trying to use the AG pitch to get TVL.
All you're getting with the math you're doing is how many horizontal lines in your AG you're getting in a set amount of distance.
The two are not closely related. Not completely independent, but as i described not necessarily connected either.

Lets say you have a 14" 800TVL tube and a 20" 800TVL tube. The smaller set will have a smaller AG pitch than the bigger set, but they have the same TVL resolution. This is because TVL isn't dependent on AG Pitch.
Because of this, you can't get TVL resolution just from knowing the screen size and AG Pitch.
More TVL = More details resolved
Finer AG Pitch = sharper picture.

>Are the stripes just thinner or is it something else?
Yeah, they are thinner. Higher TVL = More phosphor stripes = smaller AG pitch = more resolution.

Calculating "Real" resolution in a numerical sense is kind of tricky. You need to know screen size + AG Pitch + TVL resolution, then do some weird math. IIRC, a PVM-14L5 will actually resolve about 1024x768 pixels of data, even though it scans higher than that.

>> No.2047708

>>2047690
I;m the guy he was replying to above, but fuck me, that sounds nice. That's 800TVL. Amazing.

>> No.2047746
File: 859 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01205.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047746

Look what the mailman just brought.


>>2047690
>You're still trying to use the AG pitch to get TVL.
Yes, but now i rather use the result as an rough estimation. Thanks to you.
I can resolve 560 pixels on that one and my 576x416i@60hz modeline looks quite crisp on it, the pixels mostly align with the phosphors.

>> No.2047749
File: 865 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01206.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047749

>>2047746
>packing peanuts
Oh boy, i know where this is going.

>> No.2047750
File: 839 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01207.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047750

>>2047749
Inside the box was a remote control for a Sony TV.

>> No.2047752
File: 709 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01208.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047752

>>2047750
And this.

>> No.2047754
File: 816 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01210.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047754

>>2047752
Well, i was going to open it anyway for inspection and calibration.

>> No.2047756

>>2043053
>Frost Man's Theme
my nigga. dat bass

>> No.2047759

>>2047746
>>2047749
>>2047750
>>2047752
>>2047754
>shipping crt monitors like that
Is this real?

>> No.2047760
File: 812 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01211.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047760

>>2047754
Now i know the pain that other PVM buyers got.
Except that i will try my best to fix it.
I also found a full service manual on this one.

>> No.2047770
File: 716 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01212.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047770

>>2047760
Damage report:
Screwposts on the backcase broken.
Other damages on the backcase like chipped of pieces.
Frontcase cracked (only the one in the previous pic).
Dusty as hell.

Not turned on yet but the tube looks okay.

>>2047759
I looked into the feedbacks of the buyer before bidding.
He successfully shipped multiple Trinitrons and Commodore monitors and one buyer commented "great packaging" on a CRT.
Looks like i have a bad day.

>> No.2047774
File: 895 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01213.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2047774

>>2047770
>feedbacks of the buyer
*seller

The tube and the chassis is fine, only the plastic casing is damaged.
My first CRT i bought myself and this happened.
I only paid 10€ incl. the shipping unlike the unlucky PVM anons.

>> No.2047779

>>2047774
Model number?
It looks quite nice, I'm going to assume late 80's?

>> No.2047797

>>2047779
>I'm going to assume late 80's?
1990 is not far off.
It's KV-M1420D, i intended this as nicer looking replacement for my silver painted KV-M1400D.
Both are very similar, chassis is exactly the same and the tube has a deflection angle of 90° instead of 100°.
I'm going to tell the seller about this mechanical cosmetic damage and maybe demand a little refund and fix the plastic myself.

>> No.2047801

>>2047609
Seller probably thinks its an old piece of crap because huurrr durr lcd's is gud nao. So maybe you can get it for cheap?

>> No.2048381
File: 969 KB, 1901x2535, 1104141424a.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2048381

an acquaintance of mine gave me a 1988 Mitsubishi CS-1346R for free earlier today and i was wondering if its worth keeping at all. its only inputs are UHF turnscrews and a 75 ohm VHF coax, and at the moment i dont have a means of converting a digital signal into either of these. my plan for it (if i can find a way to use it) is to recapture glitched images because i cant really replicate a crt properly with filters, so its small size is somewhat irrelevant.

pic related.
any advice or suggestions?

>> No.2048393

Damn, arcade monitors are fucking expensive now

>> No.2048402

>>2048381

Do you have an Atari 2600? A Collecovision? Some pre-NES console and/or a NES? Then it is enough for all these kinds of console.

>> No.2048456

>>2048402
i do not. im fairly unknowledgeable in this sense, but are there any converters or ghetto rigs that would let me use it?

>> No.2048470

>>2048456

Meh, if you don't have these, better get another set, just try to get in contact with people wanting this kind of set in your area, sell it, and use that money to get a better set.

>> No.2048482

>>2048456
Pretty much any VCR with composite in will let you convert to RF. The image quality will be absolute shit however.

>> No.2049192

>>2041240
I recently acquired a Mitsubishi DiamondPlus 230SB.
A big 22" 4:3 thing and the picture is exceptional.
As with all flat front CRT's it was a bitch focusing the flyback transformer to get optimal focus on it again on both the center and the edges.
It will happily run up to 1600p but I think it can go over that.
As soon as I figure out how to get my cards VGA to squeeze out a higher resolution I will.

>> No.2049204

THE FW900 WILL GO TO 1600P AND POSSIBLY OVER.

AS WITH ALL HIGH RESOLUTION CRT'S THE HIGHER THE RESOLUTION THE SHARPER THE PICTURE.

>> No.2049207

>>2049192
Mitsubishi monitors are the shit. Only legendary stuff like the FW900 beat them.

The best thing about them IMO is the SuperBright feature. If you like using scanlines on emulators, enabling that option offsets the loss in brightness very nicely.

>> No.2049235

>>2049207
Well I own fuckloads of Mitsubishi's and a sony w900 (fw900 but better screen) and heres what ive noticed

Mitsubishi do not seem to give a proper anti glare coating (if any) to their monitors meaning you can run them a lot darker.
Whats good about this is they can either be very bright or normal and take a lot longer to show signs or wear and burn in.

The W900 suffers from geometry issues badly on high resolutions due to it being 16:10

It weighs significantly more than the Mitsubishi 22"

It is a lot more fussy with resolutions and wont take anything you throw at it.

It is however very good for CAD.

Gaming is best on the Mitsubishi.
Running PS1/2 dreamcast ect emulators at 2304 × 1728 is always great fun.

>> No.2049258

>>2049235
I had a W900 myself at one point. It was my main monitor for years.

It started suffering from massive geometry issues at one point, and it was actually caving my desk in, so I replaced it with a Samsung LCD.

Now I have a Mitsubishi alongside it, because I missed the various benefits of CRTs, especially the wide viewing angles and great motion.

>> No.2049265

>>2049258
>Just throwing out a very expensive CRT.
Why?

>> No.2049270

>>2049265
I actually put it in storage at first, but then somehow, some way, the plastic top broke off, and then it just got thrown out along with a ton of other stuff.

>> No.2049273

>>2049270
Also, I DID try to sell it, but no one around me was willing to take it. I live in a relatively poor area, and CRT stuff is considered trash. Not even recycling centers here want them.

>> No.2049278

>>2049273
Fair enuff.
A pity.
I had to travel half way across the UK with a trolley on the trains to pick mine up.

>> No.2049358
File: 2.85 MB, 2592x1456, IMG_20141016_005256.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049358

>>2049204
The fuck you smoking, you don't need any higher than 240p.

>> No.2049363

>>2049358
>you don't need any higher than 240p.

What about the dreamcast ?

>> No.2049372

>>2049358
Thats what telly's are for

>> No.2049375

>>2049358
CRTs are more versatile than LCDs. You can have a single monitor handle, 240p to 720p and everything in between.

>> No.2049382

Is anyone in the TX DFW area looking for a CRT TV? I have one that is decently sized. It is just a standard consumer model (dont remember the company) and I dont think I have much use for it beyond storing it for the sake of storing it. As far as I know it still works.

If anyone might be interested, let me know and I can get you the details. No copper harvesters, please.

>> No.2049384

>>2049375

>You can have a single monitor handle, 240p to 720p

Unless it's multisynch and support 15kHz and more than 31kHz, you can't.

>> No.2049398

>>2049384
The sony pvm L5 are a good option for mutlisynch.

>> No.2049447

>>2047801
Err, no we were discussing a 29" PVM that was already going on Ebay in Australia.

Went for $300, actually.

>> No.2049664

>>2048470
>>2048482
ive done just the slightest bit of snooping and i figure i can find an RF modulator somewhere for cheap, if not in my parents garage. i remember my dad having a vhf antenna that he had hooked up to an old tv, so theres bound to be some hardware lying around, and i know for sure theres a vcr in my mothers garage that she doesnt touch.

thanks guys

>> No.2049724

>>2049384
Actually, you can because 240p isn't limited to 15khz scan rate.

>> No.2049749
File: 881 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01216.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2049749

>>2047774
I cleaned off most of the dust from the past 22 years by using a huge air compressor (25kg).
Carefully bringing the damaged set to the balcony was tedious but carrying the air compressor up there was more exhausting.
I gonna clean the wires and power cord for now and continuing the restoration tomorrow.
I'm glad that i successfully the anode cap without much hassle.
On my KV-C2521D i fucked it up and damaged the cap, i had some holes on the cap and loud HV sparks were coming out. I found a rather stupid tip on the internet stating that super glue can fill it and it worked but i'm sure it will break if i remove it again.

>> No.2050089

>>2048470
>>2048482
i got ahold of a free vcr that takes a composite input and can output RF. i got it working for all of 5 minutes, although the image (vcr menu screen) was scrolling up and down rapidly. im assuming (probably wrongly) that this has to do with what frequency the signal is being output at?

now, even though this part isnt technically /vr/, could i hypothetically input to the vcr through a ps2, then output to the tv from the vcr? im able to output the ps2 through it to a spare lcd i have lying around, so my big issue is inputting to the ps2.

>> No.2050103

>>2050089
Make sure the VCR is outputting on the same channel the TV is on.

You should be able to change the VCR to it's composite input. Try tuning it to below channel 1, that's where a lot of AV ins on VCRs are.

>> No.2050219
File: 363 KB, 2820x2598, 1415183232818.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2050219

Reposted from /g/
Goddamn look at that beauty.

>> No.2050570

>>2049384

That assumes you only use 60hz refresh rate.

CRTs aren't fixed refresh rate so 240p is possible if you do 120hz or so.

>> No.2050845
File: 253 KB, 960x720, IMG_0309.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2050845

>> No.2050848
File: 237 KB, 960x720, IMG_0310.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2050848

>>2050845

>> No.2050850
File: 29 KB, 498x363, the fuck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2050850

>>2050848
Is...Is that second life?

>> No.2050891

>>2050850
Yes, that old virtual world where weirdos hang out. Some people are nice on there, a lot of them are wankers.

>> No.2051160

Can anyone suggest a trustworthy paysite to download service manuals from? Those are the only places that seem to have them for the two for the CRT's I have - one Sony PVM and a Panasonic that has a progressive mode option.

>> No.2051235
File: 625 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01218.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2051235

>>2049749
Yesterday i also cleaned the backcase and glued the broken off pieces back (seen in >>2047770) and i'm gonna glue metal rings with the right size and diameter to the screwposts.

Right now i successfully removed the tube from the frontcase without breaking the airtight seal and now i don't have a great clue how put it back as this is my first time doing this.
I'm afraid to break this beautiful Trinitron tube that does not have any scratches or damages on the front glass.

>> No.2051396

Which is better looking: Console-style pure 240p or DOS-style linedoubled 240p?

>> No.2051903

>>2051396
Really depends on the game. I usually go with whatever it was designed for, or whatever is easiest if it was cross-platform in some way.

>> No.2052014
File: 6 KB, 275x183, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052014

>>2041240
Are there any good HDMI(or VGA)-to-composite/component converters out there?

I want to hook up my laptop to my Trinitron to play emulators through but obviously it doesn't have TV-out, only HDMI and MiniDP.

>> No.2052034

>>2052014
Most downscalers will only give you 480i. See if you can find a simple VGA plug for the laptop (i.e., not a real DAC) and set a 15KHz video mode.

>> No.2052039

>>2052034
I don't mind 480i, though. I just want to be able to use the Trinitron.

That's the thing, though. I have a DP to VGA converter, but on an Intel-based laptop, especially an Nvidia Optimus model, you can't set custom resolutions.

How would I attach VGA to the trinitron anyhow? It only has component/composite/S-video.

>> No.2052042
File: 221 KB, 4000x2666, Mini-Displayport-to-VGA-Adapter.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052042

>>2052034
>>2052039
by converter I mean one of these.

>> No.2052059

>>2052039
480i will look like crap for 240p games, though.

What Intel chip are you using? That's the one responsible for the video output, so it should behave like any other. I've got a shitty old GMA950 that does 15KHz just fine. Set that up and get a RGB->component encoder. (Or a general RGB encoder, like a JROK http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html .)

>> No.2052064

>>2052059
It's Intel HD 4400. Intel HD chipsets will not let you set custom resolutions on a laptop, especially not on a Nvidia Optimus type, which is what I have. (Intel HD chip handling resolution output, with Nvidia chip handling graphical processing)

>> No.2052068

>>2052064
>Intel HD chipsets will not let you set custom resolutions on a laptop
What happens if you try giving RandR a custom mode?

>> No.2052070

>>2052068
I'm not using Linux, I'm on Windows. Linux on Optimus laptops is extremely buggy, I would gladly use it if everything worked properly, but that's not the case.

>> No.2052083

>>2052068
>>2052059
I mean, I'm not really sure if the VGA adapter would allow me to set the resolution down to 240p. I could try it with an encoder just for the heck of it, if they don't cost very much. I've never attempted to set it down that low any time I've used it.

If I did buy the JROK, how would I attach the VGA plug to it?

>> No.2052097

>>2052083
>If I did buy the JROK, how would I attach the VGA plug to it?
It's got inputs for R, G, B, and sync. You wire those to a VGA plug (VGA H-sync goes to sync input), and then attach a 5V DC power supply to the board as well (you might draw this from a USB plug, for example).

>> No.2052236

>>2052059
>I've got a shitty old GMA950 that does 15KHz just fin
You wouldn't happen to be willing to give me a little walk through on setting that up, would you? I couldn't manage to get it to work right at all with my r60.

>> No.2052387
File: 2.96 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7573.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052387

is anybody on tonight? I need a little help adjusting the convergence on my 20L5.

I can't seem to movie the rings.

>> No.2052392

>>2052387
I think I need to adjust the "dynamic convergence"

but I'm not totally sure.

>> No.2052397

>>2052387
Usually there's some wax or other putty holding the convergence adjustment rings on.

Can you find a service manual for the monitor? It should cover convergence adjustments.

>> No.2052398

how's the bvm-20f1u with 5th and 6th gen consoles?

>> No.2052406

>>2052387
God, I hope you know what you are doing.
I'd be too afraid to experiment on a 20L5.

>> No.2052412
File: 1.49 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7581.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052412

>>2052397
I do have the manual, but its not really illustrating things very well.

here are the two sets of rings

>> No.2052423
File: 199 KB, 1312x866, pvm20l5 con.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052423

>>2052397
service manual doesn't have much on the convergence adjustments.

>>2052406

that's why i'm asking you guys for help.

>> No.2052426
File: 2.98 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7575.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052426

any "how to" videos you guys could link me to?

>> No.2052437

>>2052423
Seems more or less self explanitory

>Find out how to wiggle convergence rings
>Wiggle until convergence is good

>> No.2052439
File: 2.96 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7583[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052439

>>2052412
>>2052423
>>2052426

looks like somebody might have done some adjustments on it already. it has some of those strips (only on one side) I've seen in other videos and images.

it wouldn't have those from the factory right?

>> No.2052446

>>2052439
A lot of high-end CRT's, especially larger ones get them from the factory to fix convergence issues.

You're probably better off messing when them to fix what convergence issues you're having.

If you're trying to bring in the corners or outer edges, the adjustment rings aren't going to do much.

>> No.2052461

>>2052437
I suck at reading diagrams, Meh.

Guess i'll just leave it alone for now until I can get it to the service center. (its in the next town over)

>> No.2052464
File: 23 KB, 500x458, 41HERRDSCSL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052464

So I got a nice Trinitron kv-20fs120 for $40.

Is it worth it to buy a digital (hdmi) to component converter for $50.

I will be mostly playing SNES emulator from an RPi.

>> No.2052465
File: 881 KB, 3008x2000, 2263124583_d41bc44fbf_o (1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052465

>>2052446
you really think so?

not the same monitor, but here is a better view of the areas giving me problems.

could I really fix it with more strips?

where do I get those little strips?

>> No.2052468

>>2052464
just get a wii and use retroarch. it will look much better than the output of a pi.

>> No.2052472

>>2052468
doesn't have to be a pi can also output hdmi from my video card, would that make a difference

>> No.2052474

>>2052468
Not him, but getting a Pi would be a lot more affordable than getting a Wii. Plus it's not that much less powerful.

>> No.2052478

>>2052464
have fun with that, anon.

RPi can't run SNES worth a shit

>> No.2052480

>>2052474
A Wii literally goes on craigslist for like $50 nowadays. Nobody wants Wii's anymore

>> No.2052481

>>2052478
Then what about PC output?

>> No.2052482

>>2052474
>RasPi
>$35 for the base model, without any accessories
>Wii
>$50 for console, cables, controllers, and probably a few games from craigslist

Yeah, Wii would definatley be the better choice. You'd want to throw in ~$7-10 for some component cables but you're still going to get a better experience, plus if you ever want to play gamecube in 480p that's the way you'd do it.

Yeah, i'd see what you can do with magets.
Go to the hardware store and look for "Magnetic Tape", it's a low-strength magnetic sticky-backed strip of tape that'd probably be good for messing with convergence.

>> No.2052484

>>2052472
>>2052474

neither of you understand, the Pi or PC will only output a 480i signal wit that setup.

you want the real 240p native output resolution of the SNES.

SNES games look horrible at 480i (flickery mess)

>> No.2052490

>>2052484
Not him but are there any converters that would allow such a resolution?

>> No.2052493

>>2052484

What I'm really asking: is it worth $50 to buy the HDMI to component converter for that TV rather than use composite video ??

>> No.2052495

>>2052481
the wii can emulate 99% of snes roms perfectly. either with Nintendo's own "virtual console" or with RetroArc (better idea for using your own roms)

and it will output in true 240p

>> No.2052498

>>2052495
>the wii can emulate 99% of snes roms perfectly

try playing Kirby's Dreamland 3 at full speed on a Wii.

You can't.

>> No.2052501

>>2052484
I guess this is the perfect time to ask.
What's the difference between 240p and 480i?
If 480i is interlaced, wouldn't it still be 240 pixels high?

And my PC is able to output 240p to my CRT monitor.

>> No.2052502

>>2052493
no

just use composite cables if you like the way that looks.

or use the component cables from a wii and you basically get an RGB style picture for your old games.

stop fucking around and do it!

>> No.2052503

>>2052493
Spend the $50 on a Wii.
If you do get a converter, get one that does HDMI -> Component, and try and get a used Extron unit, not some chinese junk

>>2052498
>99%

>> No.2052506
File: 133 KB, 862x720, 1402192819894.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052506

>>2052502
>>2052503
>tfw have ancient radeon x300/x1600 in closet that has S-video out to output to 240p

>> No.2052507

>>2052501

240p = progressive

480i = interlaced

>> No.2052509

>>2052506
you can't get 240 from its S-video port (only 480i)

you can get 240p from its VGA/RGB out port

>> No.2052510

>>2052507
But what's the difference? Isn't interlaced video essentially halving the amount of vertical lines?

>> No.2052512

>>2052509
:(

>> No.2052514

>>2052510
http://retrorgb.com/240p.html

trust me, you wan't 240p with those SNES games.

>> No.2052515

>>2052509
Would a VGA to component adapter let me output to 240p if I forced it in a custom resolution?

>> No.2052516

>>2052510
From what I understand, 480i is still 480 pixels high, but only one half are displayed at once, switching between each set every frame.

>> No.2052521

>>2052514
maybe, but I've never seen it done that way.

you might want to ask the people over at groovy arcade.

they do stuff like that with AMD cards.

>> No.2052524

>>2052521
was ment for
>>2052515

>> No.2052623
File: 27 KB, 627x162, video_modes_interlaced_example.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052623

>>2052516
i stands for interlaced
it does what you said.
Basically imagine 1 being SWITCH THIS and 0 being wait for next frame.
1
0
1
0
1
etc


is one frame and the next would be
0
1
0
1
0

Pic related

>> No.2052648
File: 2.96 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7584.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052648

>>2052482
>>2052439
>>2052426

arg, stupid case is so beat up from shipping damage I can't get the damn thing back together.

>> No.2052650
File: 2.90 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7588.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052650

>>2052648

>> No.2052651

>>2052510
Yes. 240p and 480i have the same line rate. 240p has an integer number of lines per field, usually 262 or 263. 480i has an odd multiple of half lines per field, usually 262.5. Each 60hz field in 240p contains 240 active lines and lands directly on top of the last. Each 60hz field in 480i contains 240 active lines but lands one-half line vertically offset from the last.

>> No.2052652
File: 445 KB, 640x960, 480i240p.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052652

>>2052501
Old video games run at 240p. Broadcast video is 480i. Lots of equipment doesn't like 240p.

>> No.2052656
File: 3.04 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7595.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052656

>>2052650
any ideas?

can't believe jacked up it is. (don't want to hurt the working components inside)

(I'm so fed up with this whole thing).

>> No.2052657

>>2052648
file a claim

file a claim

file a claim

>> No.2052661
File: 2.92 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7589.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052661

>>2052657
I did. and the jackass acts like he can't speak English now.

unit still works fine. its just beat to hell. (thanks ups)

and it needs some adjustments.

>> No.2052663

>>2052661
>and the jackass acts like he can't speak English now.
Go to ebay directly.

>> No.2052672
File: 3.00 MB, 2848x2136, DSCF7586.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052672

>>2052661
its just sad now that I opened it, can't do anything (I no convergence strips)

and the case metal is so twisted it won't fit on anymore. (wish I knew how to metal shop and mold new plastic)

>>2052663
I did, just waiting for them to review my case. ($175 shipping sure was a joke).

do you guys have any ideas how to fix the case or get it back on without hurting the monitor?

>> No.2052684

>>2052672
>do you guys have any ideas how to fix the case or get it back on without hurting the monitor?
Clamp, lever, and hope for the best as you bend it back into shape?

>> No.2052695

It was also very nice of UPS to leave the box torn open out in the rain, not even anywhere close to my front door. It’s a miracle the thing even turns on.

>>2052684

What kind of clamp and lever? (Can you post a pic?)

I think what’s casing the most trouble is the extreme bend in the bottom of the case. >>2052672
But I would have to dismantle the whole unit to fix that. And I’m betting that would kill it. (Have no confidence in myself for that)

If I could just divide it into two parts...

>> No.2052720

>>2052695

You could also try some precise and well balanced hammering. No brute force, just some little impacts. I don't think you could break it like this if you know how to deploy your strength correctly.

>> No.2052753

Can anyone tell me what scart cable to buy?
Can I buy one for a Wii and use it on my SNES, Gamecube and N64 or will the quality be shit?
I want the best quality.

>> No.2052759

>>2052753
The Wii uses it's own AV port, so "No" is the answer to your question. The Wii needs its own AV/SCART cable that only it and the WiiU can use.

The SNES and GC i'm not sure about, i think their cables might be compatible with each other, but the N64 doesn't output RGB natively, and thus SCART is kinda pointless. Most PAL N64 units can't be modded to give RGB either, only some early French ones.

>> No.2052761

>>2052759
I'm planning on buying a modded N64 for RGB.
But I just don't know which cable to buy.

>> No.2052764

>>2052759
>Most PAL N64 units can't be modded to give RGB
Can you stop talking about something you don't know.
Every N64 can be RGB modded, the early ones are just the easiest ones as you just have to amplify the RGB lines and connect these to the MulitAV.
And now RGB modding every N64 is possible without going through the insane effort i did with 74VHC/74LVX logic chips, wires, resistors, even more wires and a fucking CXA2075 along with it's 74HC86 based color subcarrier oscillator just because i broke the VI clock oscillator chip.
http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/

>> No.2052767

>>2052764
Are all modded RGB models equal in video quality or is there a difference?

>> No.2052772

>>2052767
If the amplifier is crap or not existent then wouldn't look pretty, rather dark or/and blurry.
And my "holy mother of hell, what the fuck is this shit" looking mod has a lot of high frequency interference which stands out on my capture card and HDTVs (not mine) but on my Trinitron it's not visible at all.

>> No.2052775

>>2052772
Okay thanks!
Any advice on buying a cable for SNES N64 and Gamecube?

>> No.2052789

>>2052764
>http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/
You're right, i had no idea someone had bothered to produce a commercial RGB solution. That's awesome. Ordering mine when they come back into stock... and i have $40 spare

>> No.2052868
File: 879 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01245.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2052868

>>2051235
Plastic repairs finished, now i wait 5 hours then i put the tube back. The stuff that looks like peanut butter is strong 2 component glue, i used super glue first to fix it and applied this to make it stronger. Also 3 very fine cracks on the front, that's why i applied the glue where front AV jacks are.

>>2052465
I think you could affect it with the strips but then it will mess up the corners, on my 24" Trinitron i couldn't get convergence perfect in the upper left area. I tried for hours, either the small corner or the big area.
Does the misconvergence look very bad with an dot pattern? (1 dot shouldn't be split apart)

>>2052672
>(I no convergence strips)
If you want to make new convergence strips like Macgyver then look at my tip:
http://archive.moe/vr/thread/1982553/#1987219

>and the case metal is so twisted it won't fit on anymore
I would remove everything, fix the case and then put everything back.

>>2052775
I would highly recommend to buy a very cheap cable just to get the MultiAV plug and hack it to a better one. I used good shielded cables which end to a box with a lot of switches to make a versatile adapter.
All cables could be different and you need the right one for your console.
For NTSC consoles the signals (composite/S-Video/RGB) go straight into the display with the RGB from the SNES
as exception, they need 220µF capacitors in the way.
For PAL consoles the signals need a 75ohms resistor to ground first and a 220µF capacitor to the display and only the RGB from the SNES needs the resistors to ground and the RGB of the GC does not.
RGB from the N64 can depend on the mod, the N64RGB kit outputs video with an DC offset so the cable should have the capacitors in the way (SCART should be free of any DC offset, that's why the capacitors).

>>2052789
I noticed this when i looked up the NESRGB kit.

>> No.2052919

Is a bvm 20f1u worth $400?

Also can it be used well on 5th and 6th gen consoles?

>> No.2052929

>>2052510
480i is still 640x480 but drawing every other set of lines every frame.
So now you only have a max of 30fps on a 60Hz display.
The scanlines are disgusting and give a jittering effect.

>> No.2053046

What's the easiest way to take a RGsB source and get RGBHV?

>> No.2053305

>>2053046
use lm1881 sync stripper on the green line, and im sure there's a circuit to separate H and V sync from there too.

Your device may support sync on green. Check that first.

>> No.2053313

>>2052929
>So now you only have a max of 30fps on a 60Hz display.

480i very much can display at 60 frames per second. Did you never play Metal Gear Solid 2 or Super Smash Bros. Melee?

>> No.2053319

>>2053305

That circuit looks like it outputs composite sync and vertical sync.
Will composite sync function as horizontal sync without needing any further processing?

>> No.2053320
File: 679 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01254.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053320

>>2052868
I just installed the tube back.
No leak of doom heard while handling this huge piece of glassy awesomeness.

>>2053313
Or Mario Kart Double Dash?

>> No.2053338

>>2053319

I suppose it doesn't matter, because the BNC (?) ports for sync are labelled VD and Composite/HD.
So I can definitely use simple composite sync. Dunno about sync on green though.

>> No.2053346
File: 850 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01267.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053346

>>2053320
The 3 cracks on the front are so fine you can't see them in this picture but it's right there where on the upper left corner of the outstanding control panel (where the buttons and LEDs are) and it extends towards left.

>> No.2053360

Is it normal for a Sony Trinitron or any CRT tv for that matter to make a very subtle high pitched sound? Its not consistent but it happens often. When its on of course

>> No.2053363

>>2053360

Yes - the sound has a frequency 15KHz which is also the horizontal scan rate of SD TVs, just within the range of human hearing.
31KHz+ monitors such as PC monitors don't emit such a sound.

>> No.2053482

Starting to think getting this monitor wasn't such a good idea, there's a noticeable scratch on the anti-glare coating, there's 2 dark horizontal lines going across the screen, it doesn't allow me to go past 85Hz no matter what resolution I switch to and blacks don't actually look like blacks.

>> No.2053559

>>2053482
>Scratch on the Anti-Glare coating
Peel it off
>2 dark horizontal lines
Par for the course on Trinitrons, unless they're something other than the stabilizing wires
>Won't go past 85Hz
Try custom display modes, there was some program out there that let you ignore the EDID limitations for monitors
>Blacks don't look like blacks
Peel off the AG coating

>> No.2053630

On a bit of a budget, but can get a 14" Trinitron from 1995 (KV-14M1A) for pretty cheap locally.

Would this be any good for my old vidya?

>> No.2053638

>>2053630

Any idea what sockets it has? composite (yellow/white/red), s-video, SCART?

>> No.2053642

>>2053630
>KV-14M1A
A quick search seems to show that it has SCART, so assuming it's in good physical condition, it couldn't be too bad.

>> No.2053649

>>2053642
>>2053638

From what I remember it has composite and SCART, most likely would be using SCART.

I hear Trinitrons are pretty good, but I don't expect I've stumbled upon gold or anything, it's a pretty wide range, right?

>> No.2053654

>>2053649

SCART is good, it's probably gonna give you easy RGB. Maybe 60Hz if you're lucky but I dunno.
Trinitrons are good in general, but there are a lot of other factors.
I think the most important aspect of this TV is going to be the condition this particular unit is in. How many hours it has, etc.

>> No.2053673
File: 723 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01239.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053673

>>2053630
It has chassis BE-4.
Not so bad but the older BE-2A (pic related) is way better.
The stupidass MC44002/7 will produce a slight but visible white stain in the upperleft corner because the test scanlines used for cutoff current measurement are insanely bright.
And the RGB goes though a resistor network for mixing it with the OSD, the buffer transistors of the OSD seem to have a certain capacitance which will cause trails on white objects that are on a dark but not black background .
I also know from a another anon that the KV-14M1B doesn't support PAL60 composite, i believe it's a software issue because i think it forces the chroma decoder to NTSC because the signal is 60hz.
I own a KV-M1450D and it has the same chassis but supports PAL60 composite.

However it also supports 60hz, has a 16:9 mode, service menu and you can't change the horizontal size.

>> No.2053675

>>2053654
Cool, good to know, thanks! I'll make sure and have it on before I hand over any money.

Being a noob with CRTs, I just want it to not buzz or flicker while it's heating up like my current one.

Just want a 14" CRT for the corner of my room so I can play SNES in bed when I'm home sick, like when I was at school.

I'm 27...

>> No.2053679

>>2053673
I... thanks very much. I feel like such an idiot not understanding much of it, but I appreciate what little I do. Perhaps I should keep looking.

>> No.2053683

>>2053675

15KHz CRTs (CRT TVs that display 240p/480i) emit a quiet high pitched hissing noise if that's what you're talking about.

>>2053679

What exactly is there that you can't understand?

>> No.2053684
File: 6 KB, 527x247, RGB capacitance.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053684

>>2053679
Not a bad Trinitron, it's still better than a post 2000s set with digital processing.
Get it if the issues doesn't bother you, and the possibility that composite could appear a little noisy as if it is RF.

>> No.2053832

>>2044102
You mean the GDM-90W11 and it's ilk.. Yeah, they were breddy gud.. FW900 is slightly more masterrace though..

>> No.2053862

>>2053559
The parts of the scratched off anti-glare coating are so reflective I can barely see the screen and I am in a pretty dark room right now.

The horizontal lines are 1 pixel thick, only noticeable with bright colours.

I tried custom display modes in GeForce control panel, but it doesn't seem to work.

The blacks improved dramatically after I changed the settings in the GeForce control panel so it would use the monitors calibration instead.

>> No.2053869

How do you know if a CRT supports Progressive Scan if you don't have the remote or manual? Also do you need a progressive scan tv if you want to use SCART/component output?

>> No.2053871
File: 3.08 MB, 3264x2448, 1415258752564.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053871

Is there a reason as to how the 3ds LL's screen has a scanline effect?

>> No.2053872
File: 3.16 MB, 3264x2448, 1415257100964.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053872

>>2053871

>> No.2053873

>>2053871
Not really a scanline effect, more of a screen door effect.

>> No.2053875

>>2053871
>>2053872
That's just how very low-res LCD screens look like.

>> No.2053881
File: 979 KB, 800x800, 12CfjzF.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2053881

>>2053873
Would you really say that is a screen door effect though?
I was under the assumption that this is a screen door

>> No.2053890

>>2053881
Yeah, screen door effect, just on a higher resolution display.

>> No.2053897

>>2053871
The LCD pixels are arranged in distinct rows with small gaps between them. Completely different from a CRT's scanlines.

>> No.2053913

>>2044773
This! In spades.

>be me
>huge student project involving loads of printed stuff
>shoehorned into role as AD/illustrator/printing liaison as I'm the only one who has an inkling about computer graphics
>most stuff goes well (photos) until we get to the graphical stuff
>I'mma learn Illustrator over the next week
>vector works are fine
>get approval to send off for printing
>phone rings
>it's our printer's project manager
>"Hey anon, I got your stuff and it looks fine, colours're off though. I'm just outside. You have a moment?"
>brings prepress (from calibrated printers)
>looks like absolute shit colour-wise
>also brought Pantone (tm) fanfold
>spend next hour getting a crash course in colour handling and making adjustments
>on-screen original looks hella weird
>colours are Pantone equivalent CMYK
>"Oh hey, your fanfold!"
>"Keep it until this project's finished anon."
>graphics print perfectly
>Pantone fanfold's my new best friend
>everything looks off on TFT but prints wonderfully
>visit printshop
>see my stuff which looked weird on TFT on their ancient Barco CRTs
>exactly as what came off the presses

I did return the fanfold and I learned never to trust an uncalibrated monitor, especially not a panel.

>> No.2053941

It seems I can create a custom resolution of 1600x1200 @ 100Hz, can't seem to go any higher than that. My faith in this monitor has been restored.

>> No.2053995

>>2053941
That is fucking beautiful.

>> No.2054074
File: 486 KB, 500x340, xlr.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2054074

>>2050219
nice setup bro!

>> No.2054249

>>2053338
Hmmm, is it a Sony? Sony were the main proponents of SOG/RGsB, so i'd image their shit would work with it...?

>> No.2054253

>>2053869
A lot of progressive CRT tvs tended to advertise it pretty bodly. My PAnasonic that does 100hz/progressive has those two terms printed prominently onto the casing, so that's one giveaway.

After that... google?

>> No.2054360

>>2053869

I'm assuming that by progressive scan you mean 480p, a video mode only used on some 6th gen games and most 7th gen games for vidya. 240p (≤5th gen) is supported by just about every CRT TV and so is 480i (≥6th gen when not using component).

Progressive scan TVs tend to need component. You might also get VGA (RGBHV) ports. SCART ports tend not to support 480p

When trying to get progressive scan, good things to look for are 100Hz and HD.
For 100Hz TVs, they typically scan 480p natively. That means you get a genuine CRT video without any image processing, so there's near-zero lag and almost no quality loss. However, these TVs either scales or framedoubles 240p/480i content. In both cases you get lag, and in the first you get a decrease in image quality. The only 100Hz CRT I've gotten my hands on framedoubles so it's satisfactory for most of my needs with my games. I'll assume that's the standard for 100Hz CRTs.
For HD TVs, it may upscale to its highest supported resolution (typically 1080i) rather than simply scanning 480p which doesn't look nearly as good. This is almost always the case with 240p/480i. This adds lag and makes the image quality significantly worse.
In conclusion, if you want 480p content and perhaps 480i/240p content try to get a 100Hz CRT TV. If you want only 240p/480i content, get a normal CRT TV. If you want 480p-1080i content and nothing else, get a HD CRT, but only if it natively scans the resolutions you want. Try also considering a computer monitor - the PS2 and PS3 are capable of sync-on-green for some PC CRTs, while consoles like the Dreamcast support RGBHV for all PC CRTs. PC monitors won't be able to handle 240p/480i content.

You don't need a progressive scan TV to use RGB SCART or component. If you're in Europe, just about every CRT TV you can find does RGB SCART. Component is rarer in these territories thanks to SCART, but in the US and other regions Component can be found on many CRTs.

>> No.2054367

>>2054249

It's not a Sony, it's an LG Flatron.
I doubt it supports SoG, but how would I try?

>>2053941

I'm jealous. I think the highest my monitor would be able to go at that resolution is 89Hz.

>> No.2054460

>>2054367
if your device is outputting Sync-on-Green, just plug it in and see? I don't think you can hurt anything even if the TV can't handle 31KHz? Some wiser anon should probably weigh in here...

>> No.2054467

>>2054460

I don't have the cables for it yet, the monitor only has VGA and BNC ports and I can get SoG on 3 RCA or a SCART connector.

>> No.2054535
File: 805 KB, 640x480, VID_20141101_1154571.webm [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2054535

>> No.2054548

>>2054535

Man, is that a KX-21PS1? This set is sexy as hell!

>> No.2054554

>>2054467
Maplins/Radioshack/Jaycar will have BNC to RCA adapters for about $2 each...

>> No.2054561

>>2054554

I'll check those out, I suppose.

>> No.2054580

>>2054548
It is
I will take some more images of it tomorrow

>> No.2054586

>>2054580

That's a really nice set anon. Too bad most of the one sold here are a expensive as a new monitor.

>> No.2054835

I just picked up some 13" Durabrand CRT TV. Considering how I live in the rural part of rural Canada in one of the least populated provinces, I think I did pretty good for myself. Whoever had it before me was going hard in the picture settings though, so nothing looks right. Are there any homebrew apps for the Wii or anything I can use to help me get this thing back to normal?

>> No.2054838

>>2054835

240 test suite sounds like what you're looking for.

>> No.2054842
File: 222 KB, 720x405, 1405528814746.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2054842

>>2054838
This ia exactly what I needed, thanks man

>> No.2054969

>Been scouring craigslist for a better CRT for months
>everything is either too big, too expensive, and/or too far away
>finally find a dirt cheap 20" trinitron somewhere close by
>guy's only contact info given is email
>sent a message 2 days ago
>still no reply
>PLEASE DON'T FUCKING FLAKE ON ME PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE

>> No.2055692
File: 78 KB, 1024x680, RCADIMENSIA25in11-8-143_zps1571826e.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2055692

>*Does not include RGB
Well shit. Sort of glad I didn't pick up that Dimensia now.

>> No.2055713
File: 158 KB, 1054x798, partial video circuits kv-m1420d, BE-2A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2055713

>>2055692
>include a SCART connector
>but not going though the effort of adding RGB input circuity
I don't know if i should feel pity or laugh over america.

>> No.2055718

>>2055692
Oh my god what the fuck. Same here. Somebody posted it on Craigslist about a year ago and I was all bent out of shape when I missed it.

What the hell is the damn point of that input then.

>> No.2055741
File: 2.00 MB, 3264x2448, photo 1 (4).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2055741

>>2055718
"conforms to industry standards"

I still think it would have been a nice set piece, but no RGB really kills it.

Still have the photo the seller sent me. Well really can't call them seller, it think it was supposed to be free.

>> No.2055851
File: 541 KB, 1632x1224, DSC_0002.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2055851

To the anon who asked for an extra picture of the Profeel

>> No.2055857

>>2055741
It has S-Video though, there's no noticeable difference in quality.

>> No.2056039

Hey /crt/, does anyone here have any experience with the KV-27V65? I'm looking to replace my aging (composite only, not to mention 30 years old!) 1985 XBR. It has S-video and comb filtering, not to mention that the one I'm looking at has been used very seldomly (according to the seller).

I'm kind of unhappy to get rid of the XBR though, even if it only has composite and is acting up every now and then, it's a really nice piece of hardware and has been in the family since my grandparents bought it back when it came out in.

I don't know /crt/, what should I do?

>> No.2056047

Maybe this is the wrong question for the CRT general, but I'm retarded and new entirely to specific monitors/TVs for retro gaming.

I mostly emulate arcade games, so if I'm trying to simulate authenticity here, what kind of screen am I looking at? Were arcade cabs also CRTs?

>> No.2056065

>>2056047
Yes

>> No.2056080

>>2056039
Post an image of the rear of the XBR

>> No.2056110
File: 84 KB, 550x417, 115B72335083C6F8287E4E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2056110

>>2056080

My camera is shit but here's a picture from an identical set.

>> No.2056118

>>2056110
I'm quite curious as to why you are using composite when you can get RGB from an XBR?

In any case, what condition is your XBR in? You said acting up but can you be more specific?

>> No.2056119

>>2056110
>>composite only
>RGB Multi Input
Go find a floppy drive cable and you can put yourself an RGB adapter for that thing.

>> No.2056130

>>2056118
It has this strange issue where the colors will occasionally get fucked up while it's in use (about once or twice in the span of a few hours). It'll do this for about a minute then go back to normal. It has me worried because my grandfather told me that it only used to do it very very occasionally.

>>2056119
Yeah, I know it has RGB, and I know there is a sort of SCART converter you can make. I'm clueless when it comes to doing that sort of stuff though and there doesn't seem to be any idiot-proof guide anywhere (probably because it's a trick that only applies to a single, very old model)

>> No.2056158

>>2055851

Thanks anon. This set's design is my all time favorite.

>> No.2056160

>>2056130

Might as well be dry solders? How does the colors fuck up?

>> No.2056320

>>2055692

That's kind of pointless. Is it at least bidirectional?

>> No.2056437

OK, so I looked into my monitor settings and I found a setting labelled "clamp".
There are two possible options, SEP or SOG.
I'm assuming this is separate sync or sync on green, right?

>> No.2056568

Hey, is it normal with curved screen crt's to have the image sort of have a slight bend near the very top of the image? I was playing mario sunshine (i know, not retro but thats not the point), and I noticed that some of the buildings near the top of my screen didn't have perfectly straight lines, its more noticeably when you super quickly pan the camera up and down.

is that normal or is my screen fucked? i only recently got it

>> No.2056581

>>2056568

This is normal. Most PC screens and some TV screens have options for adjusting geometry, but you may need to enter the service menu to do it.

>> No.2056582

>>2056568
you might be describing the fishbowl effect curved crt's have, in which case, yeah, thats normal

>> No.2056591

>>2056160

Basically all the whites in the picture go black. It's almost like the colors are being reversed.

>> No.2056605

>>2056581
damn, i have no idea how to access the service menu and i'd probably just screw everthing up if i did. i have some kind of panasonic crt but no clue what model it is

>> No.2056612

>>2056605

It doesn't say anywhere on the back?

>> No.2056863
File: 693 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01272.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2056863

>>2053346
I just installed additional heatsinks like dad did back then in the 90s.
I assume he let the set run for a certain time and then checked out how hot these heatsinks and other components are.
Drilling new holes in the original heatsinks was not easy.
Before it looked like this: >>2053673

>> No.2056867
File: 776 KB, 2048x1536, DSC00911.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2056867

>>2056863
This is what dad did to the KV-M1400D and you can see that i just repeated what he did.
I also assembled the KV-M1420D and it works fine after all this tube removal and insertion effort.

>> No.2056937

>>2056863
have you got any more?

>> No.2056987
File: 674 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01274.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2056987

>>2056937
How to tell if there's a painful voltage on that spot or heatsink in this case:
Set the multimeter to highest volt setting in AC.
Hold the one probe in your hand.
Carefully put the other probe against the spot in the TV or monitor.
If it's higher than 10VAC then it will hurt when you would touch it.

This is not a safe way to measure 1kV and above but these voltages can be usually found near the flyback transformer, neckboard and the anode cap. The voltages in all other places aren't that high.

But if you want to know more about how the human body reacts to voltage then you should watch this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hp97GjuULX8

>> No.2057017

>>2054074
>my life.gif

>> No.2057436

I recently plugged in my old crt tv. Has that buzz always been there?

>> No.2057518

>>2057436
High pitched whine is normal for any CRTs that scan at ~15khz, but many people cannot hear it.

>> No.2057824
File: 31 KB, 800x756, 27af43.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2057824

Just picked up a free Toshiba TV from a friend's family. Model number in pic. I had to buy a universal remote to change the input, but I tested Raiden out over component on my PS2 and it looked great. Going to try out my SNES and Genesis tomorrow. This considered a good model? Looking to get rid of my Samsung I had, as it has a kind of fuzzy picture and color staining.

>> No.2057960

>>2057436

On many countries it's normal, in some people say they don't hear it, and when you hit the 30s you're not supposed to hear it anymore either.

>> No.2057990

>>2057960
Really depends on how your hearing ages. Some people can't even hear it by their mid 20's where others can hear it into their 50's even.

>> No.2058002

>>2057990

Well, it's true, though most of the people I knew who wouldn't hear it were in their 30s/40s. Personally, I'm in my 20s (22) and can still hear it pretty well, though it goes unnoticed after a while.

>> No.2058452

Just got myself a Sony BVM-D32E1WE, still need to wait for the cable to be able to play something

>> No.2058454

>>2058452
>BVM-D32E1WE
Is that one of the 16:9 BVMs?

>> No.2058459

>>2058454
Yup.

>> No.2058474

>>2058459
Oh my god my fucking dick that's amazing. Where did you get it?

>> No.2058480

>>2058474
I live in Belgium, some production company in Holland was selling their old equipment.
I drove 400 km (248 miles) to get it.
It's in great condition. I ordered a cable on eBay so it's gonna take a while before I can play on it.

>> No.2058486

>>2058480

I'm fucking jealous. I was in Belgium just a few weeks ago. I'd have bought it if I knew about it and could take it on the plane!

>> No.2058491

>>2058486
It would be hard to take on a plane tho.
Weight: Approx. 95 kg (209 lb)
Dimensions: 794 (W) x 556.5 (H) x 694 (D) mm (31 3/8 x 22 x 27 3/8 inches)

>> No.2058498

>>2058486

I think you would have needed another place to carry it back home though.

>> No.2058692

>>2058486
Why would you want it so bad?
Does it even support retro consoles 240p?

>> No.2058696

>>2058692

It goes town to 15KHz and I think up to 45. Sounds like it can handle anything you throw at it.

>> No.2058698

>>2058696
Won't it look like shit? If it supports up to 1080i?

>> No.2058704

>>2058698

No, as it display 240p video signal natively. No upscale, no shit.

>> No.2058712

>>2058704
But the pastebin is saying this:
"Alright, so just go out and get any old CRT and I'm good, right?
Nearly any CRT Television made in the mid 90's on back will give the benefits mentioned in the above paragraph: No scaling and no input lag; More recently produced models can also do the same but it is at that point where you run into High Definition(100hz and/or 480p compatible models) which run into the same scaling pitfalls as flat screens. That said, not all CRTs are created equal, and different sets will offer more options, more inputs, or better picture quality."

>> No.2058715

>>2058712

This isn't a standard TV, it's professional equipment. It's designed to be able to handle a range of signals natively, as opposed to a consumer set.
That's why it's higher quality, with no scaling.

>> No.2058719

>>2058715
Okay thanks anon, I'm an idiot at this stuff!

>> No.2058829
File: 105 KB, 550x825, 1415546137743.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2058829

So here is my plan.
1. go to thrift store for old CRT tv (there's always one around).
2. hook up desktop PC with emulators to the tv.
3. play the games

I've heard I could use s-video cables, but I'm not sure if my desktop has support for that.

Is it even worth it if I could just use scanline filters on emulators?

>> No.2058843

>>2058829
Use a crt computer monitor and run it at 240p @ 120hz

>> No.2058846

>>2058829

I don't think you can easily get s-video or composite out of a PC. Don't quote me, but the easiest video ready for a TV you could get from a PC would likely be RGB SCART from the VGA port with a custom 240p resolution. But only euro and aus TVs have SCART ports. If you want to plug your PC into your TV and you don't have access to a SCART TV then you'll probably have to get RGB SCART from the VGA port on your graphics card, then get some kind of RGB to S-Video or Composite converter. Quality converters are moderately expensive too.

If you want it to be plug and play without converters, use a PC CRT monitor. The difference between that and a flat monitor is still night and day and there are a variety of methods to get your delicious scanlines.

If you just want it to be easy and you need to use a TV, use a Wii. The emulation on that is patchy though.

>> No.2058916

Is there any adaptor that'll get RGsB from a SCART connector to a VGA connector?
I see a few which have a female VGA port and a male SCART port but I need the opposite.

>> No.2058983

>>2058712
>>2058715
I think I might have to go back and check the wording on this, see if I can set out a better distinction between televisions and monitors.

>>2058846
A nice number of older video cards have S-Video out for use with TVs and the like. The problem is that the video signal is sent through an encoder that may be of sketchy quality and in all likelihood won't allow for anything other than 480i.

>> No.2059427
File: 31 KB, 538x451, segacdx.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2059427

Need a bit of advice, or maybe help, not really sure which.

I have a Sega CDX and a 32X, only composite cables for both, and a Sony Trinitron WEGA.

If I hook up the CDX to the Trinitron, it doesn't look so good. The colors feel very flared out and the edging is fragged to hell.

It looks even WORSE when I hook it up with the 32X attached, the colors flare out to painful levels (if I play the special stages of Sonic 2 with Tails, I can barely see Tails in some of them) and the edges are twice as bad.

Can anything be done about this? I confess I'm not really that knowledgeable about hooking up consoles or settings, but this is really just unplayable.

>> No.2059510

hey anyone know what the deal with alignment is? it seems to be different for each console i have. my genesis has things a little too far "up". my snes is a little too far to the right, and my n64 is a little too far down

BUT, my original xbox is always perfect. why? is it smart or something?

>> No.2059667 [SPOILER] 
File: 45 KB, 968x481, 1415678399531.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2059667

>>2058452
So, uh, how much did you pay?

>> No.2059961

For any poster who owns both, what would essentially be an optimum size CRT for a desk.
I'm either considering a 14" or a 20" model.

My main qualm is basically: Will the 20" be too big for these 240p games at such a distance

>> No.2059970

>>2059961
I have both 14" and 20" PVM's and both are fine at desktop distance. If you have the room for it, get the 20". Otherwise, get the 14" or even go down to the 8" ones depending on your space.

>> No.2059979

>>2059961
Really all depends on personal preference and space.

I've used both my 13'' GXTV and 20'' PVM at under 2' distance and was fine.

On a completely unrelated and off topic note; Anyone know what would be a good cheap camera would be? It seems mine has shit itself; Lens pops out then goes right back in.

>> No.2060412

>>2059667
It was expensive, really expensive.
420 euros

>> No.2060561
File: 281 KB, 720x576, TV2013082223292000.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2060561

>>2059510
>hey anyone know what the deal with alignment is?
Can be different for each set and manufacturer. They did set them after a signal generator in the factory, either by hand or automatically.

>it seems to be different for each console i have
The (chip) engineers/designers (4th gen) or game programmers (5th gen) often made it simple and set the center and size after the sets they had. In the 6th console gen they might used advice (BT.601 standard) how to handle this properly.

>my original xbox is always perfect.
Because it might complies with the BT.601 standard.
GC and Wii does as they have a 13.5mhz or 27mhz crystal like many DVD players, DVB receivers or TVs with digital processing.

I personally set the geometry of my (SCART) TV sets after that what i have and use.
The horizontal size and center after the composite of the PAL NES (i use SMB1 and cutoff 1-2 pixels of each side of total 252 to hide border artifacts, also only non-RGB device i own) and the vertical center roughly after BT.601 (my TVs displaces 50hz and 60hz from each other by 5 interlaced lines) and the size to get the correct aspect ratio (a circle generated with a square pixel clock).
I use a external SCART RGB shifter to set the horizontal center of RGB sources myself independent from the TV.

My PAL NES is a little shifted up with the "correct" vertical center setting of the BT.601 standard. Just like any other common capture device that complies with it.

>> No.2060692

Oh shit man, my Commodore 1085S-D3 just started to make weird clicking noise inside of it, like some sort of butterfly trying to get out of the set and hitting the grate with his wings.. It started a few minute ago, after 2~3 minutes of use.
Is it serious?

>> No.2060729

How do I make my computer send 240p120 to my monitor?

>> No.2060780
File: 544 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01282.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2060780

>>2056987
So, yesterday i let it run for 6 hours displaying a black picture (AV input with no signal) and measured the heatsinks after that. About 50°C on all is quite good for the voltage regulator rated at 125°C (heatsink with voltage) and the horizontal output transistor rated at 150°C (next to the flyback transformer) but it's rather bad for the vertical IC (heatsink near the tuner) rated at 75°C.

Now i'm adjusting the geometry as mentioned in >>2060561.

I marked the all trimmers (except color balance) with a green sharpie to mark the factory settings, so that my adjustments can be reversed.
The horizontal size seems to be right but the center is quite off.
The convergence is also a little off and so seems the focus.

>> No.2060812

>>2060729
Don't bother. If you want scanlines, just output 480p and use a scanline filter.

>> No.2060817

>>2060812

I'd rather get a custom resolution somehow or other. I don't want any horizontal scaling.

>> No.2060829

>>2060817
The easiest way to go about it is to follow this:

http://emulation.gametechwiki.com/index.php/Display_FAQ#240p.2F480i_Emulation_on_a_31kHz_CRT_Monitor

You'll technically be scaling, but it will not be noticeable at all thanks to the dot pitch of your monitor being too low to resolve it.

>> No.2060831

/vr/ - Fussing over technical specs and calculations over playing fucking games

>> No.2060834

>>2060829

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.

>> No.2061134
File: 435 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01284.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061134

>>2060780
Done with all adjustments.
I couldn't get the convergence as good as i wanted it.

>>2060831
Could you post this in the emulation general?
"/vr/ - Using the newest computer technology to play the oldest games known to mankind"

>> No.2061146
File: 425 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01290.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061146

>>2061134
I tried to get the fucking glue off the convergence rings.
I decided it wasn't worth the risk of pushing my luck. So i decided to let it be.

>> No.2061158

>>2060692

I don't want to scare you, but my 1084-D1 started making some clicking noises before it died. Also way before that, like 6 months before it died, the picture started to wobble a bit. Then one day it just made loud bang when I was playing Lemmings on Amiga(it was ironically synced with all lemmings exploding), picture disappeared and it started making whistling noise. From what I've read, bad caps caused the wobble, which after some time killed HOT(horizontal output transistor), which also killed the flyback.

>> No.2061186
File: 510 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01288.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061186

>>2061146
The reason why i decided to shift the vertical center a little up is because the BE-2A chassis suffers from the same thing as mentioned in >>2053673
>a slight but visible white stain in the upperleft corner because the test scanlines used for cutoff current measurement are insanely bright.
The reflection of these test scanlines is also visible here but it's not to bad as they are only 4:
Black (leakage current), red, green and blue. The intensity of these is rather dark.
Unfortunately it becomes quite visible when my ideal vertical center and size is set.
That's why i shifted the v-center up about 6 interlaced scanlines and now that stain isn't visible anymore.
It's also hard to photograph, so think about that the black level is raised by a great deal like 30% on that spot.

The V-CENT trimmer is also very weird. I turn slowly and the picture moves slowly down. At a certain point the picture will suddenly shifts down by 10 interlaced scanlines and stops there.

>>2061158
It would make sense that the noise is actually the leaking of the bad caps.

>> No.2061191

>>2060561
yeah...I'm not to certain about what you said. but it sounds smart...

>> No.2061212
File: 733 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01293.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061212

>>2061186
The backcase is a little yellowed. In the picture it looks more worse than it really is.

>>2061191
It's more about tolerances.
Game devs usually paid attention NOT to place important stuff or text that much to the border of the TV screen because it might get cutoff on certain sets.

You should learn what overscan means then you would understand it better:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overscan

>> No.2061238
File: 190 KB, 1120x636, pvm1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061238

So I work at a hospital and they're letting me go next week, so I thought I'd take a stroll through the electronic recycling.
Wingo

>> No.2061607

Please don't get angry if i'm in the wrong place but I need help with display issues. When I play my gamecube and n64 on my 50 inch tv, The actual game looks great, but there are lines, almost like barcodes around the black lines.
Is this just what you get for playing with composite cables? Would a CRT be necessary to buy?

>> No.2061610

>>2061607
Sounds like upscaling artifacts. And yes, people don't recommend SDTVs because they like 80lb behemoths. They recommend them because they display these things properly.

>> No.2061618

>>2058715
So you mean that consumer HD CRTs linedoubled 240p signals because they didn't support 15kHz? That means your set will still display only 224/256 scanlines as opposed to 448/512, right?

>> No.2061847

Making an order at monoprice to go with some retro CRT setups.

RCA cables
VGA->BNC breakout cable
4-way VGA switcher

What else should I buy?

>> No.2061878

>>2061618

>So you mean that consumer HD CRTs linedoubled 240p signals because they didn't support 15kHz?
Pretty certain that's the case, though I have a 100Hz set which framedoubles instead.
>That means your set will still display only 224/256 scanlines as opposed to 448/512, right?
I'm not sure I know what you're asking.

>>2061847

Depends entirely on your setup I suppose.

>> No.2061891

>>2061158

Well, I never had any wobble. The picture has alway been good, no geometry issue or anything like that. Anyway, it stopped after 30 minutes of use, but I'll still inspect it this week-end, because it really scared me (never hear that kind of noise coming from my monitors).

>> No.2061896
File: 14 KB, 300x225, 300px-Crawl[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2061896

>>2061607

I'm assuming you're referring to these checkerboard artifacts?
These are because composite video is being used, not scaling artifacts.
You can use s-video to get rid of these artifacts and get more accurate colours. Your TV should support it already and if you have NTSC systems so should your two consoles.
You still get input lag and scaling artifacts though, so a CRT would be ideal.

>> No.2061912

Anyone here with a Sony WEGA set or experience with them? I have a Sony KV-27FS100, and I've messed with the picture settings to the point that I am fairly satisfied with it, except for one doubt: the color temperature. Most people recommend 6500K, but the problem is, the thing only refers to its color temp presets as Cool, Neutral, and Warm. Do any of them represent 6500K, or get close to it?

I currently have it on Neutral, because given my current Color and Hue settings, Warm looks much too red, but perhaps the way to go is to turn it onto Warm and adjust from there? It DOES say on the Warm setting that it is "NTSC-Standard", after all, but I don't really know better.

>> No.2061945

>>2061912
"neutral" is usually 6500k

>> No.2061965

>>2061945
Hmm, I'm not sure about that. I actually have a CRT PC monitor as well, which I have running at 6500K, so I fired it up with an emulator and put the same game (Super Mario World, which is ideal given its liberal use of primary and secondary colors) on both the emulator and my SNES hooked up to my Sony through S-Video. After a lot of close-up scrutinizing, it seems the Warm setting is much closer to what my monitor outputs than Neutral is.

To that end, I set the TV to Warm, adjusted Hue and Color somewhat, and I ended up with very similar colors to what the emulator outputs to my monitor, although not 100% perfectly.

>> No.2062298
File: 3.52 MB, 3020x2768, Trinitron_computer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062298

Anyone knows what is this monitor model? I just saw LGR using one of these with a TV tuner and now I feel like getting one.

>> No.2062305

I'm having a little issue with my PVM. If I lay it to play TATE games on the left side it looks ok, but if I lay it on the left I get some gaussing on the upper right corner. What could it be? Maybe the magnets are not properly affixed to the tube?

>> No.2062323

>>2061212
I noticed more things after putting it on my desk and connected it to my PC.
For some reason the convergence isn't as good as my KV-M1400D despite of the same tube and chassis, looks like i'm not done yet. Also the scanlines at the top are a little bit bowed, the white balance is different and there's a certain buzz on the speaker (i will check the caps of the amp). Maybe the yoke is misaligned but the service manual explains it in a great detail how to perform adjustments.

>>2062298
KX-14CP1

>>2062305
>but if I lay it on the left I get some gaussing on the upper right corner.
You degaussed it after rotating, right?
>Maybe the magnets are not properly affixed to the tube?
It might be likely that the strip(s) gotten a little loose.
You should open it and check how good they stick to the tube.
Black insulation tape sticks great on the back of an CRT.

>> No.2062325

>>2062323
I think it might be the strips since it fixes itself when I return it to the original position. It's a PVM1340qm, and -i think- that it degausses itself on every power on. Don't quote me on that.

>> No.2062328

>>2062298
i'm pretty sure there's an anon here with that monitor set up on a nice table in front of a window that has a psx and ps2 hooked up.

i always loved his photos

>> No.2062331
File: 420 KB, 825x463, Screenshot - 121114 - 13:06:54.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062331

>>2062323
>KX-14CP1
Thanks man! It's not the exact same one that LGR has, but it's one step on the right direction.

>> No.2062460

>>2062323
>>2062298
>>2062331
>KX-14CP1
PVM 1390

>> No.2062461

So I've heard talk about PS2 having issues with component, namely that it doesn't look very good on a lot of models or something like that, or that on slim models it looks worse the longer the console is running. Can anyone confirm? I'd love to be able to play PS1 games through component instead of getting a monitor that can support RGB, but I don't want to shell out for component cables if it looks worse than S-video.

>> No.2062468
File: 1.37 MB, 3280x2460, 101_1818.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062468

>>2062461
Where did you hear that from?

I've had my slim PS2 running for hours upon hours before with no drop in quality. This was taken just shy of 10 hours of having the system running.

>> No.2062482

>>2062461
It looks fine. My standard method of playing PS1 games is via my slim PS2 with component video. As a bonus, the PS2 slim is WAY more reliable than the fat, though the fat is a sexy looking machine.

>> No.2062485

>>2062468

That's the thing, I can't even remember where I heard it. It might have been in one of these or elsewhere, I don't know. Regardless, it sounds like it might have been inaccurate.

>> No.2062489

>>2062461

Looks just as good as RGB on my fat.

>> No.2062509

>>2062461
>>2062485
What you heard is partially true, but I can't give out much info about it. Only that on my two Samsung LCDs (the only component inputs I got) some pixel columns are missing on 576i (not sure about 480i, I forgot), but it looks okay on 480p. If the problem is on 50Hz 15kHz signals and you got an NTSC PS2 it'll be alright. If the problem is just 15kHz on Component I suggest you get an RGB cable and transcode it to component. You better ask people who really know their stuff, but what I'm saying is 100% true for my case.

Component off the sync on green puts out a definitely sharper image than RGBs (possibly because it's not using composite as sync), but at least in RGBs all the pixels are where they should be. It may even be the display, and using a CRT might prove no issues at all. I'm using a fattie PAL PS2 by the way.

>> No.2062568

>>2062460
>PVM 1390
You sure? that one lacks all the buttons this one has.
>>2062331

>> No.2062575

>>2062568
The one pictured in >>2062298 is a 1390
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Trinitron-PVM-1390-Color-Video-Monitor-S-Video-Used/231387915469
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Trinitron-PVM-1390-Color-Video-Monitor-S-Video-Used/321548432920

The LGR one does seem to be in the same line as >>2062323 mentioned

>> No.2062710

Is it possible to use a tube from a vga monitor on a 15khz tv chassis or vice versa?

>> No.2062732
File: 438 KB, 2048x1536, DSC01298.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062732

>>2062323
>For some reason the convergence isn't as good as my KV-M1400D despite of the same tube and chassis
Because the adjustment done in the factory sucked. It took me a hour to remove the high amount of glue seen in: >>2061146 .
>there's a certain buzz on the speaker
And i'm not so smart either. The speaker of the KV-M1400D is just quieter but has the same buzzing. I also measured the caps, the values matched.
Now i have the same great convergence as the other one, imperfect corners on the top and the greens in the lower center are slightly down shifted instead of misplaced reds on the right corners. But it's still better than before.
Now i will set my white balance after my 1280x1024 TFT monitor as it was quite off when i compared it with my wallpaper.

>>2062710
Several factors:
Specific shape of the yoke, swapping them would likely fail.
The deflection coil drivers, they meant to drive a certain impedance.
The CRT Connectors itself and if can the chassis drive the stuff of the electron gun (all grids, cathodes, anode, heater and the anode).
You would need to adjust the geometry if the above points aren't problems.

All CRTs itself work similar enough that you could use them in other system, just pay attention to the technical details and measure and compare as much as possible.

Also look at this:
http://www.coinopspace.com/forum/topics/round-tube-vs-flat-tube-color

It's also possible to use a VGA or TV CRT as an vector monitor.
http://hackaday.com/2014/09/18/building-a-vector-monitor-controller/

>> No.2062757

Is $50 for two PVM 14L1s a good deal? might pick them up from cl.

>> No.2062781

>>2062732
Sounds interesting, so diff tubes have diff pinouts? I might grab a vga monitor from goodwill for $5 and try it out. Thanks

>> No.2062782

>>2062781
I was planning on changing just the tube, not the yoke as well.

>> No.2062898

I adjusted the geometry on my set in 240p test suite and it looked fine but when I went back to the wii home screen it was way off. I tried it on my playstation and the startup screen was also fucked but the game looked fine. Anyone know why?

>> No.2062902

>>2062898

It's possible you only adjusted the settings for 240p. In 480i video modes, it'll revert to the previous settings.
Use 240p test suite, set it to 480i, then use that to adjust your geometry again.

>> No.2062908
File: 605 KB, 1280x960, tumblr_ney7g6zQ4k1u2ftudo1_1280.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062908

tfw no scart cables for my ps2

tfw have to force PAL60 because 50hz sucks


also when forcing pal60/60hz on GSM for free mcboot, PS1 games turn into a weird letterbox 16:9 shape, why is this ?

>> No.2062924

>>2062908

You shouldn't be using GSM, should you? I thought that just scaled the rendering resolution to a target output resolution.

The PS1 games are only in that letterbox shape when being forced to 60Hz? You might be talking about PAL bars, i.e. the extra lines between 480i and 576i that games haven't been reprogrammed to use.

>> No.2062936

>>2062757
L1s don't have RGB, just S-Video/Composite. I suppose $25 each wouldn't be a terrible price though.

>> No.2062942

>>2062902
Thanks

>> No.2062949

>>2062908
PS2 doesn't support PAL60, only NTSC.

>tfw no scart cables for my ps2

Then get some? I paid mine 10$ and while it's not the best, it gets the job done.

>> No.2062954

>>2062942

There's no point in using GSM if that's the case. You only ruin the signal with scaling and inconsistent motion.

>>2062908

Maybe for PS1 games, but I'm pretty certain it does PAL60. Ratchet and Clank is one I used not too long ago, and Sonic Heroes I seem to remember did.

>> No.2062965
File: 6 KB, 692x528, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2062965

>>2062924
GSM can select some different video modes for games that dont have it on startup.
it looks like this anyway

>> No.2062968

>>2062954
If the TV doesn't support interlaced NTSC you're not going to get color out of it. Consumer Trinitrons did, maybe you're mistaking that as PAL60.

About the letterbox shape, I would not know. What signal are you using? They should actually be cut at the upper/lower borders, if anything. Maybe it has something to do with some games going like 512x240p and with GSM you're fucking it up by enabling interlaced mode? I dunno.

>> No.2062972

>>2062954
yeah its working prefectly fine. with ps2 games

>> No.2062975

>>2062968
sorry i wasn't very clear

the game im trying to play is NTSC but forced to PAL60, and thats creating the letterbox look

>> No.2062980

>>2062972

A lot of PS2 games natively support PAL60. Those that don't tend to be programmed to use the full resolution anyway.

>>2062968

I have a TV that doesn't support NTSC and does support PAL60. I played Ratchet and Clank in PAL60 on that TV without problem. The PS2 can play PS2 games at PAL60. PS1 is a different story I imagine.

>>2062975

Just get SCART cables, even cheap ones. Then you won't have to force video mode or anything, since there is no colour modulation.

>> No.2062983

>>2062980
is component to scart any good ?
i already have component cables at the moment

>> No.2062990

>>2062983

Are you confusing component and composite? Component has red green and blue, composite has yellow.

If you have component then nothing needs to be done and you don't need to force the video mode, because there's still no PAL or NTSC colour modulation.

>> No.2062993

>>2062975
As I said PS2 didn't support PAL60. I don't even know what GSM is supposed to be doing.

If you're not getting an interlaced signal (which is the most likely, since >>2062965 isn't exactly letterboxed 224p), then it might be triggering the TV 16:9 mode, I don't know how since I don't think composite can. Just try to play without PAL60 and see what you get.

>>2062980
>A lot of PS2 games natively support PAL60

Yeah, I don't think so, feel free to provide source. I have tried different late 90's and early 00's CRT TVs and only a consumer Trinitron allowed me to play R&C (my nigga) in full color through composite. PS1/PS2/PS3 has been continously stated not to support PAL60, all the CRT I've tried do support progressive NTSC though, but on interlace they always fail to lock the chroma.

>> No.2062997

>>2062993

I'm not capable of trying this at the moment but I'll get pictures to demonstrate as soon as I can.

>> No.2063501

>>2058452

Would the anon who purchased a BVM-D32 here, be able to post an image or two?

I'm curious as to how big it actually is, when used in a normal "home" setup environment for example.
Considering all the images I seem to come across are showing the monitor in a broadcast environment, its hard to get a good idea.

>> No.2063675

>>2063501
Sure, I will post it in a few hours.

>> No.2063724
File: 1.39 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2063724

>>2063501
Yeah, it's huge.

>> No.2063727
File: 1.48 MB, 3264x2448, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2063727

>>2063724

>> No.2063801
File: 1.21 MB, 3264x1836, image1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2063801

Is this a triniton? I can get it for free if I drive for one hour.

>> No.2063810

>>2063801

>Made by Sony
>90s case design
>blurred "trinitron" logo in the top left corner

Yup, it's a trinitron. Good luck anon, this set seems like a nice one.

>> No.2063903

>>2063810
Awesome, thanks. Hope it'll fit in my car.

>> No.2064251

>>2063724
What do you do with your 4:3 content on that?

>> No.2064281

Thoughts on the Sony KD-27FS170? Anyone here own one/can recommend one?

>> No.2064314

Thought you guys would like to see this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281494653602

He's using an image from neogeo and/or /crt/

I asked him if it's the actual item in his pictures, he replied:
>Yes this monitor is in extremely great condition. Looks to flawless and very clean. Just super heavy. Must be something about this monitor. I now have 10 watchers and been answering questions all night lol....noticed one on ebay listed for 1600.00. Thanks
>- fiddlefaddleoddsandends

I then asked him for another higher-res picture of the same game, but straight on so I could see convergence, etc. His reply:
>You are not bothering at all. Sorry but the first pic was taken some time ago when my son was into his gaming days. He took picture to list it on Craigslist but decided to just keep it taking up space in our home when he moved out. I added another front image to my listing. It is a much recent pic when me and wife decided to list on EBAY. Hope this helps. I really do not know much about this item except that it was his pride and joy for some time. Very clean and well kept. Thanks and hope this helps. sorry I dont have more

what do /crt/?

>> No.2064316

>>2064314
also, after I emailed him, showing interest, he bumped up the price a hundred dollars.

I haven't replied back, he dropped it back down to his original 400.13

I don't like this guy trying to sell his probably shitty 20L5 using a prestine image that's properly set up

>> No.2064363

>>2064251

You either scan it at 4:3 or put black bars either side to fit 4:3

>> No.2064646

I made a survey for you fine folks so we can get a feel for what CRTs and stuff like that everyone uses here.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYw
A8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/vie
wform?usp=send_form

It should only take a few minutes of your time, so please check it out.

>> No.2064651 [DELETED] 

>>2064646

What if you have like 10 CRTs? Do I do this form 10 times?

>> No.2064667

>>2064646

"The file you have requested does not exist"
bit ly it?

>> No.2064674

>>2064667

Hmmm, that's strange

Try this one

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PhdXJYwA8xModrTV1Yt-i1tvNgwiagpeBx0m_xNIVtc/viewform

(I'm pretty sure bitly/tinyurl doesn't work because 4chan blocks them as spam)

>> No.2064689

>>2064674

Great, now I can indulge you with my pleb opinions.

>> No.2064754

>>2064314
>>2064316
It's not even an L5, an 1944Q rather.

I sent the original poster on neo-geo a PM informing him of it; I really don't know how much we could do as you see people using "stock" photos in listings all the time on ebay.

Might be best to leave it to the guy on neo-geo if he wants to do something about it.

>> No.2064762

>>2064754
thanks, i saw your comments on it in the other thread.

i don'thave a neogeo acct so i couldn't PM the guy, you're doing good work anon.


maybe i'll string the guy along some more, if i'm bored.

>> No.2064927

>>2064646
I would like to have the question "How well do you know CRTs?"
-"I don't even know how they work."
-"I know the basic principles."
-"I have converged/internally adjusted my CRTs."
-"I do understand the circuits from my CRTs."
-"I had a job where i repaired many different CRTs."
I would picked the last one.

I also made a new thread:
>>2064923
>>2064923
>>2064923

>> No.2064949

>>2064927
Faux shitposting right in the OP might not have been the best of ideas

>> No.2064956

>>2064949
I know.
First i wrote "/vr/ thread" and thought i should add something in there.

>> No.2066523

>>2063903
It almost fucking did not, I spent 25 mins laying down seats, trying multiple angles. Almost gave up but then, finally.
Retro gaming is serious business.

>> No.2066528

>>2066523

Sweet! Please, don't hesitate to take photos and post them on the new thread.